TAKE ME HOME
I'M FREE
24
Whales SEAVA 2017 The real Te Vara Nui Vaka Eiva Outrigger Fun RSA Memorial to the 500
Island Nights Amazing evening entertainment
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One unforgettable Day “The view of the island from the plane was just spectacular.”
“I think we’d all forgotten how to relax, the cruise fixed that.”
“This tour was the highlight of our trip. We loved every minute of it.”
Flights depart daily (except Sundays) from Rarotonga Airport at 8.00am. Returns 5.30pm.
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“Once they found the fish the boys snorkelled for hours.”
For more information see our hotel tour desk or call our reservations centre (7 days) on 22-888.
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Aitutaki Cruising, swimming, snorkelling, relaxing over a barbequed lunch of freshly caught fish as you explore Aitutaki’s beautiful lagoon. A I R R A R O T O N G A’ S DAY T O U R I N C L U D E S : • Aitutaki island tour T H E VA K A C RU I S E • Island hopping • Delicious barbequed lunch served on-board • Complimentary towels and snorkelling equipment • Bathroom facilities • Round trip airfares from Rarotonga FFROM RO M $493 $459 PPER E R PERSON PERSON
CONTENTS Issue 24 January 2017
22
Up front
Tour of the Cook Islands
6
Introduction
11
An introduction to the Cook Islands
8
Contributors to this issue
22
Rarotonga
76
Aitutaki
82
Atiu
Features 40 The Real Te Vara Nui Journalist Rachel Reeves talks to Vara Hunter about her life growing up in Rarotonga and New Zealand and her achievements in business. 48 SEAVA Reunion Rarotonga 2017 In acknowledgment of the service of Cook Islanders in the New Zealand defence forces who served in South East Asia SEAVA is bring their next biennial reunion to Rarotonga for Anzac Day 2017. 50 Listen to our Past – Remembering our WW1 Soldiers During World War 1 the Cook Islands sent 500 men to serve in the New Zealand army. Glenda Tuaine talks to local carvers about their vision for a memorial to remember the 500. 54 Rarotonga’s Mesmerising and Magical Humpback Whales Erika Bult talks to us about the humpback whales, what needs to be done to protect them and interviews Nan Hauser, whale scientist. 61 The Coconut Cure The wonders of the humble coconut and its oil. 68 The Most Fun Event on the Outrigger Planet Every year Rarotonga hosts Vaka Eiva, a gathering of outrigger canoeists from all parts of the globe. Read what makes it a lasting memory. 72 Small Cook Islands Businesses Check out these local entrepreneurs. 88 Sport Fishing in Rarotonga Kirby Morejohn spends a day out sport fishing with Marlin Queen fishing charters, read about his experience.
84 Our South Pacific Home – Southern & Northern Group Islands
Regulars 12 Art Scene Our writer Joan Gragg talks about ei’s and their part in Cook Islands culture. 16 Book Worms A review of topical authors and their books. 18 What’s in Store? Taking a look in shop windows. 20 Raro Rhythm Read about Anania Browne an up and coming guitarist who after becoming seriously ill took up the guitar and has not looked back only forward to his future. 30
Island Cuisine We visit local restaurants.
38
Phillip Nordt on Food Learn how to prepare and cook your fresh mahi mahi.
64 Great Places to Stay A guide to some of Rarotonga’s best accommodation. 90 Culturally Significant Plants and Animals In this issue find out what is special about the taro and the rori/sea cucumber. 92 ‘The Bond’ Entertainment Guide The inside story on the best clubs, island shows and nightlife. 96
Front Cover: Te Vara Nui Village - Overwater Show. Photo: Margaret Woulfe
4 • ESCAPE
42
What’s On? A calendar of events and holidays.
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EDITOR'S Note
publisher RD Pacific Publishing Limited editors Margaret and Steve Woulfe design Christina Thiele | Ultimo Group Auckland, New Zealand printed in Korea WE SP Co., Ltd advertising director Margaret Woulfe regular contributors Rachel Reeves Glenda Tuaine Joan Gragg Jess Cramp Kirby Morejohn advertising sales rarotonga Steve Woulfe Phone: (682) 23449 or 57298 Email: advertise@escape.co.ck distribution rarotonga (682) 57298 or email advertise@escape.co.ck distribution aitutaki Annie Bishop Phone: (682) 31009 Email: bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck Escape is published bi-annually by RD Pacific Publishing Limited P.O. Box 3010, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Email: advertise@escape.co.ck All contents of ESCAPE magazine are copyright of RD Pacific Publishing Limited. Any reproduction of any part of this magazine without prior written permission is strictly prohibited.
Kia Orana and welcome to the Pacific Paradise of the Cook Islands and issue 24 of Escape magazine. How time has flown since the last issue. It only seems a few months ago that we started on this journey of publishing Escape and yet here we are a year on. We have to say a big Meitaki maata to all the people who make this magazine possible, not least the advertisers but also our great team of writers and other contributors. We have been busy out there checking out this beautiful paradise we live in, taking heaps of photos, meeting lots of lovely people, enjoying the sunshine, yummy food and swimming with the fish in the lagoon. In the following pages, you will find information and stories that we hope make your visit here one to remember and for those of you reading this in New Zealand, Australia or whichever part of the world you are in, we hope you are intrigued enough to come see our slice of paradise for yourselves. Rachel Reeves on page 40 gives us an entertaining insight into Vara Hunter, the beautiful lady behind Te Vara Nui Village, from her early days on the island to her life now. We also find out from Rachel on page 50 what makes the annual Vaka Eiva festival so special for outrigger paddlers that it draws paddlers from across the world. On the theme of water read about Kirby Morejohns experiences deep sea fishing with Marlin Queen, and whether or not the fish bite. We are very lucky to have Erika Bult on page 54 interviewing world renowned whale scientist Nan Hauser asking some of those questions you were afraid to ask! She also gives us a bit more information about the humpback whales that visit the Cook Islands from July to October and recent efforts to protect them. We also have the next in our Culturally Significant Plant and Animals series and a new section on preparing food by Phillip Nordt, owner and chef at OTB. One of the most special events that will happen this year is the SEAVA Reunion (South East Asia Veterans Association) over Anzac Day 2017 which is due to coincide with the completion of a new Memorial to the 500 Cook Islanders who joined the New Zealand army in World War 1. The memorial is about remembering those men and Glenda Tuaine talks to two of the men behind the memorial Mike Tavioni and Michel Tuffery. We hope that everyone finds something to enjoy in this issue and welcome any feedback you may have either via email or on our Facebook page – Cook Islands Escape Magazine. Don’t forget if you are on Facebook to please like our page and follow our page to keep up with events and people in the Cook Islands. To all visitors please take this magazine home with you and share with your friends so they too can come and experience our little piece of paradise. Kia Manuia Margaret & Steve Woulfe PS. Please mention Escape when you use or book with any of our advertisers as some are offering a discount when you mention Escape.
6 • ESCAPE
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CONTRIBUTORS Rachel Reeves Born and raised in California, Rachel Michele Teana Reeves has Atiu roots on her father's side. She moved to Rarotonga when she was 21 to get to know her Cook Islands heritage and fell in love with the island and island life. Rachel has been writing for Escape Magazine for six years. She has also worked as a reporter and columnist for Cook Islands News and a reporter for a newspaper in Los Angeles. In 2014, she was commissioned to write a book about the impact of Cyclone Martin on the atoll of Manihiki ; Matini was published a year later. Rachel is grateful to the people of the Cook Islands, who have welcomed her with warmth and aro'a.
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Jess Cramp Jess is an American scientist, surfer, diver and writer who arrived in Rarotonga via Tahiti, after being convinced by a group of Cook Islands voyagers that their islands were the best in the Pacific. In 2011, she moved to Rarotonga and spent two years as a volunteer Programme Manager for Rarotonga-based Pacific Islands Conservation Initiative, helping to establish the shark sanctuary and falling in love with the people, landscapes and culture of the Cook Islands. She was named an Emerging Explorer by National Geographic for her work in marine conservation and is currently pursuing a PhD in sharks. When not working, Jess can be found at reef passes, either surfing or exploring underwater.
Kirby Morejohn Born and raised in California, Kirby Morejohn is a marine biologist who is currently based in the Cook Islands, where he and his partner, Jess Cramp, are studying sharks. Kirby enjoys photography, diving, freedive hunting, and cooking wild caught and locally harvested foods.
Glenda Tuaine Glenda has lived in Rarotonga since 2005 when she returned to be the Marketing Director for Cook Islands Tourism after working in the New Zealand Arts industry as a Festival Director, Producer, Writer, sometime Radio and TV Presenter and all round arts advocate. Now Glenda and her husband Mo run the successful creative company Motone focusing on Music and Performing arts development in Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Glenda is of Aitutaki and Rarotongan descent and when not working on a myriad of projects can be found at the beach with her daughter Ruby and dog Nemo.
Also FREE CALL us on 123 or check out our website www.bluesky.co.ck for more information.
8 • ESCAPE
Sandra Paterson, Glenda Tuaine, Nerys Case, Joan Gragg, Judith Kunzle, Peter Morse, Ewan Smith, Julian Zeman, Noel Bartley, Florence Syme - Buchanan, Matariki Wilson, Alan Syme, Thomas Koteka, Margaret Woulfe and Steve Woulfe.
Cook Islands
Island Escape Forty years ago, an Air New Zealand DC10 arrived in Rarotonga carrying a youthful Australian family on the adventure of a lifetime. Disenchanted with the duties of a suburban housewife
As fate would have it, during the 1980’s a new industry
and never seeing a husband that worked 12-16 hour
was born on the Island of Manihiki, Black Pearls. Our family
shifts as an electrical engineer, my mother rebelled and
company evolved to include these stunning newcomers
escaped to the little known islands of the South Pacific with
and became the first local company to specialise in
a friend and mentor.
Black Pearl Jewellery.
Having previously visited Norfolk and Lord Howe Islands,
On the occasion of our 40th anniversary, I warmly
the duo arrived in Rarotonga. The effect was immediate
welcome you to our Cook Islands Black Pearl Jewellery
and my mother realised that she had found our new home.
stores on Rarotonga and Aitutaki to experience a part
Shortly thereafter, and to the chagrin of friends and
of our on-going family adventure.
neighbours, my family abandoned the suburbs of
I also take this opportunity to bid you Kia Orana and
Melbourne for an unknown future on an unknown Island.
welcome to my adopted home.
Since that time, my family has built a company specialising
My name is Ben Bergman, Pearl Jewellery Designer
in Cook Islands Pearls.
and Managing Director of Bergman & Sons,
Relocating to the northern group Island of Penrhyn for 5 years in 1976, my parents collected natural pearls for
Black Pearl Jewellers of the Cook Islands. Kia Manuia.
European and Asian markets.
One Family One Gem One Adventure
Cooks Corner RAROTONGA Pacific Resort AITUTAKI p +682 21 902 e luke@bergmanandsons.com w www.bergmanandsons.com
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The Cook Islands
15 tiny islands in paradise, that a small nation calls home.
London Berlin Vancouver Rome Beijing
Seoul Tokyo Los Angeles Hong Kong Honalulu
Northern Group
Capetown
Perth
Sydney
Cook Islands Auckland
Southern Group
W
here would someone say, “may you live long,” upon meeting you for the first time, but in the Cook Islands.
The Cook Islands greeting Kia Orana, means exactly that, “may you live long.” It is a unique first gesture of friendship from a special Polynesian people, renown for their hospitality and warmth. It is as if God chose his 15 most precious gems, and then sprinkled them over 2.25 million sq km of the Pacific to become the Cook Islands – an ei (necklace) of islands awaiting to embrace all visitors. All the islands combined make up a land area of just 240 sq km. Each of the ‘gems’ is unlike the other and all have their own special features. From the majestic peaks of Rarotonga to the low-lying untouched coral atolls of the northern islands of Manihiki, Penrhyn, Rakahanga, Pukapuka, Nassau and Suwarrow. The latter, inhabited only by a caretaker and his family, is a popular anchorage for yachts from all over the world. The Southern Cooks is made up of the capital Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Atiu, Mangaia, Mauke, Mitiaro, Manuae, Palmerston and Takutea. Takutea is an uninhabited bird sanctuary and managed by the Atiu Island Council. Manuae is the remaining uninhabited island. Cook Islanders have their own Maori language and each of the populated islands a distinct dialect. It has a population of around
13,000. The Cooks has been self-governing in free association with New Zealand since 1965. By virtue of that unique relationship, all Cook Islanders hold New Zealand passports. The country is governed by 25-member Parliament elected by universal suffrage. The Cook Islands Parliamentary system is modelled on the Westminster system of Britain. The Queens Representative is Head of State. A House of Ariki (traditional paramount chiefs) counsels and advises government, as does the Koutu Nui, a body of traditional chiefs. This is a delightful Pacific country where the ‘metropolis’ of Rarotonga offers a wide range of activities, accommodation and cuisine and visitors can choose to be as busy as they wish. A short inter-island flight away are the less developed southern group islands each offering something different. Travelling to the isolated northern islands by inter-island flight or boat, one savours a South Pacific rarely seen by outsiders. Due to distance and infrequency of transport there are fewer visitors to the northern group islands. But wherever you turn you see bright tropical colours and movement, whether it is the sway of palms and sea in the trade winds, or dancers entertaining at one of the many nightspots found on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. While you may nearly always hear the ocean, you will always feel the warmth of the people and their tropical paradise. The Cook Islands truly is a slice of heaven.
ESCAPE • 11
art scene
the
s ' i E
of the Cook Islands story: Joan Gragg
The pleasure of wearing flowers is enjoyed by most people in the Cook Islands. Flowers are worn by men and women. Women wear flowers in their hair and on their ear. Men wear a tiare maori bud on their ear. Ei are made to wear around the neck, ei kaki, or on the head, ei katu. Flower ei are worn by everyone.
12 • ESCAPE
A
flower ei embodies a sacred tradition of love, respect, good will and appreciation. It is a gift given at graduations, weddings, birthdays, funerals, haircuttings, and to welcome and farewell friends and family. You can make your own ei to wear for no special occasion. You may have flowers in your garden and are inspired to make an ei because you are meeting friends for lunch or dinner. The thing about wearing flowers, is it makes you feel good. Smiles are the norm on faces looking at someone wearing flowers. From May to August when the weather is cooler fewer flowers bloom like tiare maori and tiare taina (gardenia) and frangipani. Ei makers then incorporate fragrant leaves, colourful croton and dracaena, and (cordilyne) ti leaves mixed with flowers. Tiare maori last for days after they have been picked but they are best picked in the morning on the day before they open. They are wrapped in leaves or plastic and stored in the fridge until they are sewn into an ei on the day they are needed. Flowers and ei are brought in from the sister islands, these ei are distinctly different from the ei made here in Rarotonga. Tiare maori, inano and pandanus fruit, and herbs like dill, basil and patchouli are combined. The fragrance saturates the area they are in. Ei poroiti was once an ei made here in Rarotonga but is now mostly made in the sister islands because of the availability of poroiti and the skill and time it takes to make an ei. Poroiti is a fruit related to the
tomato. It is skilfully cut and peeled in a spiral, separating the thin skin from the seeds and pulp. The curls add colour and texture to an ei. Maire ei are also brought in from Mauke, Mitiaro and Mangaia. Several strands of maire are twisted together to make a long ei. Normally this type of ei is not mixed with other leaves or flowers. The ends are not tied together like other ei. They are used on formal occasions. Maire ei are exported to Hawaii as they are regarded here as the premium Lei.
The arrival ei Making an ei begins when your arrival is announced. Whether you be a visitor to the islands or a family member returning home or visiting for the first time. Preparation for making your ei is a priority and may begin days before your plane or ship arrives. When one sits down to make an ei for someone coming home or visiting, no matter how rushed one is one cannot help but think about who you are making it for. This is one of the joys of making an ei for someone. Presenting it brings together the preparations, excitement, expectations, and the looking forward to being together. Presenting an ei requires one to raise the ei above the head of the receiver framing their face in a circle of flowers before placing the ei on their shoulders. This gesture brings one close to their face making it natural to look them in the eye, hug them and kiss them on the cheek (in the case of a friend or family member) In respect for someone who does not want to be kissed one can
Playingof the Cardlsands
Cook Is
Novel, unique and appealingly attractive, this deck of cards features 54 art works by Joan Gragg. Joan’s art is influenced by everyday life in the Cook Islands. An ideal gift or souvenir! Available from: Beachcomber Pearl Market Bounty Bookshop • Island Craft • The Gift Shop The little Red Gallery • Perfumes of Rarotonga
See Joan’s artwork at The Furniture Centre
ESCAPE • 13
smile and say, kia orana. Which means welcome, may your life be long and you enjoy your stay.
Memories of special times We had a huge frangipani tree outside our shop that flowered profusely and filled the air with fragrance for several months. We picked the flowers and made ei to wear for our own pleasure. When it finished flowering and started dropping leaves that had to be raked up every day, we wished it didn’t exist. I remember in the nineteen fifties when we were children, watching and helping our grandmother (“mama”) make an ei for our mother to wear when our parents were invited to Ngatipa (the residence of the Resident commissioner) or to a dance or PTA meeting. We the children collected tiare maori buds several days in a row and wrapped them in pawpaw leaves so there would be enough to make an extra beautiful ei. In the afternoon of the occasion we picked miri (basil) and frangipani from ours and the neighbours garden. Mama took out her ei sewing needle and measured enough cotton thread to make the ei. She tied a knot at
14 • ESCAPE
the end of the thread and looped it over her big toe to stop the flowers from running off the thread. Mama scanned the flowers working out how she would arrange the flowers and miri into a pleasing collection of colour and fragrance. The stems of some flowers were pinched short so when sewn together the petals fitted over each other like fish scales. Some flowers she opened, splitting the stem so the petals were separated and hung lower to give variety to the width of the ei. She would sew the ei with great care making sure the flowers were all perfect and did not bruise. Once the ei was made she placed it on pawpaw leaves, sprinkled it with Johnson's baby powder, then gathered the leaves to make a package but before turning it over to seal it one of the kids, (the one who loved to light Mama’s cigarette) would be ready with a lighted cigarette so Mama could inhale the smoke and puff it onto the ei before she sealed it up ready to be worn in a few hours. The smoke was believed to enhance and preserve the fragrance of the ei. It was left in a cool place ready to be opened when presented to our mother. Opening the pawpaw leaf bundle was an occasion. Perfume filled the room like bursting fireworks of scents. Mama would put the ei on our mother and look admiringly at her. It transformed our mother into the Queen of the night as she walked out the door smiling. Giving someone an ei when they leave is also a tradition that is still practiced. Before quarantine laws forbidding flowers to be taken overseas, it was the custom to give flower ei to those leaving but shells or more permanent ei were also part of the custom. This custom was to give a gift that they could keep as a memento of home.
In the late fifties and sixties when someone left to go overseas it was a very sad time for the families left at home because you knew they would be gone for a long time and the only contact you would have with them was through letters once a month. When our oldest sister was preparing to go to New Zealand we sat together around our grandmother and made ei for her. In 1958 crepe paper ei were the fashionable ei to give to those leaving. We sat on the floor at night and made ei for her. Although we loved to make the ei it was a really sad time. Our sister was very excited to be going on an exciting adventure on her own at 15 but the rest of us were consumed with sadness. After each night of ei making the ei were hung on a stick high up so the babies could not reach them. We made many ei because it was like we needed to protect her and we imagined the ei were our presence around her when we couldn't see her. We picked flowers to make flower ei for her as well because it was important that she had flowers to throw into the sea when she was on the ship. The idea was she had to throw a flower ei into the ocean so it would wash up on the beach assuring her return one day. When the ship left we sat on the beach and quietly watched it until it disappeared over the horizon. We hoped she remembered to throw her flower ei into the sea. If you haven’t worn an ei either on your head or around your neck I recommend you do so before you leave our shores. You will be surprised at how it gives you an aura that brings pleasure to you and everyone you meet.
Polynesian Wedding Bands
Faithfulness
Happiness
Love
Monday - Friday 9am - 4pm | Saturday 9am - 12pm Main Road, Taputaputea | Phone. +682 21939 | Email. luke@bergmanandsons.com ESCAPE • 15
book worms
Soldiers from the Pacific Howard Weddell The book review is from Dr Andrew Macdonald. Dr Andrew Macdonald is a New Zealand-born author and military historian living in London. He holds a PhD (University of London) in First World War military history. His PhD is in the assessment of military effectiveness in the First World War. He is the author of three books covering the Somme and Passchendaele battles. He is twice published by HarperCollins. The history of World War One is known to many, however the participation of roughly 1000 men from the Cook Islands, Fiji, Niue, Tonga, Kiribati, Tuvalu, Samoa and Norfolk Island who joined the New Zealand Army from their tranquil homelands until recently has faded into forgotten history. These Islanders served — whether as individuals or part of a Pacific Islandsrecruited unit — on the inhospitable
16 • ESCAPE
escarpment of Gallipoli, industrialised killing fields of Western Europe and also in Egypt and Palestine. One-hundred-andseven lost their lives to disease or enemy action, 73 were wounded and a further three were prisoners. Until now little of note has been written of their military service 1914—1918, its origins and, indeed, their personal stories.
So it is that we can follow the story of soldiers from the Pacific Island through the politics and practicalities of recruitment through to their return home after hostilities. They played their part in the big Western Front battles of the Somme and Passchendaele, and also in Egypt and Palestine and participating in the multiple engagements of Gaza.
Howard Weddell’s first and muchanticipated book, Soldiers from the Pacific: The Story of Pacific Island Soldiers in the New Zealand Expeditionary Force in World War One, handsomely addresses all of these matters. In timing this tome fits nicely with the centenary commemorations of the First World War; in practice the research and writing began more than a decade ago as a labour of love that has consumed much of Howard’s time on weekends and in evenings. Through its pages the reader will spy the author’s eye for fine detail, a bent to examine his subject area fully, a careful and even-handed approach to analysis, as well as empathy for the men and their ordeals. At least some of this will be linked to Howard’s own career as a now-retired officer in the New Zealand Army. He has overcome a dearth of eyewitness accounts from communities that pass history orally from one generation to the next, but nonetheless succeeded in producing a compelling digest.
Such battles are only one part of a much bigger story. Howard has spent a good amount of attention to addressing the subjects of disease, death, discipline and diet throughout, along with many other fascinating points that have been unearthed over 12 years of research studying military personnel files, war diaries and other official documents. Few historians go to this length; fewer still manage to make it interesting reading. What we have in Howard’s book is a topto-bottom account of Pacific soldiers in the NZEF, adding a fresh dimension to the existing pool of literature about that formation. It has the added bonus of being the first of a kind for Pacific Island communities and also the great and greatgreat grandchildren of those who sailed off for a great adventure. It is not at all going too far to describe this book as ground breaking and a long-overdue addition to the historiography of the First World War. This book can be purchased via: www.soldiersfromthepacific.com
Anyone who has visited Rarotonga must surely have observed that country’s links to the First World War. Zip around its coastal ring road on a scooter and there is plenty of evidence to be seen, most commonly in the form of returned servicemen’s headstones and other memorials. The timeless stories of these men — some hailed as heroes, others as so-called characters and more still anonymous to the pages history — and others who served alongside them, are outlined in detail.
Cook Islands News and its publisher to commission a book about Cyclone Martin. Journalist Rachel Reeves, whose paternal heritage derives from the island of Atiu, interviewed survivors in New Zealand and the Cook Islands and wove their stories into an illustrated book called Matini. The 185-page book, is a harrowing account of what happened to Manihiki that night. It is a story of great pain, but also of incredible courage and strength. It is a story that will make you cry, renew your faith in humanity, inspire in you a great respect for the island people, and remind you to count your blessings.
Matini Rachel Michele Teana Reeves On a Saturday evening 18 years ago, waves tall as the coconut trees broke over Manihiki, a sea-level coral atoll in the northernmost reaches of the Cook Islands. Cyclone Martin stole 19 people from a population of fewer than 700, and would become the most tragic natural disaster in the oceanic nation’s recorded history. Locals survived by tying their bodies and boats to coconut trees or taking shelter in homes with high foundations. Four people, including an eight-year-old girl, drifted in an aluminium boat for three nights and two days, using a sleeping bag for a sail and a plank of timber as a rudder. Using patterns in the sea and the sky as map and compass, they navigated to Rakahanga, a tiny island more than 40 kilometres away. In 2014, the board of the Cyclone Martin Charitable Trust, a not-for-profit organisation comprised of Manihiki people and Martin survivors, teamed up with
Matini is also a roadmap for emergency responders. It points out where the Cook Islands government went wrong and catalogues the consequences of its failures. Today, as the world contends with a changing climate and scientists predict that the intensity of cyclones will increase, it is vital that disaster managers, and indeed all of us, pay attention to the lessons Matini teaches.
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To order a copy of Matini, contact the author at rmtreeves@gmail.com or the publisher at john@cookislandsnews.com, or drop by the Cook Islands News office in Avarua. *All books can be purchased from or ordered through Bounty Bookshop, Rarotonga
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ESCAPE • 17
what's in store
In support of local art Perfumes of Rarotonga store has a range of stunning silk sarongs and imaginative gift cards hand painted by local artist Kay George. Cooks Corner, Central Avarua. Tel. 24238. See their advert on page 19.
Iconic symbols of the Cook Islands can be used as book ends or if weighted down (zipper in base) as doorstops. Beautiful hand painted cushions, each one is unique. Both items available from Tivaevae Collectables. See their advert on page 17.
Discover the great range of Te Tika skin care products at CITC Pharmacy Avarua. These widely acclaimed skinregenerating beauty products are made using native Cook Islands plants. Also available from CITC Duty Free at the International Airport. See their advert on page 63.
18 • ESCAPE
A pair of beautiful south sea white pearls set in 18 carat yellow gold with diamonds. Available from the Moana Gems shop in uptown Avarua. Carved adzes are also sometimes available as a special and unique souvenir of the Cook Islands. See their advert on page 53.
Perfumes of Rarotonga *Love
*Faithfulness
Handmade
Fall in love again with our Polynesian wedding bands... 9ct White or Yellow Gold set with diamonds. Choose from Love, Faithfulness or Respect. Non-Diamond designs also available. Exclusively at Beachcomber Pearl Market, Uptown Avarua. See their advert on page 15. Colourful tie dyed t-shirts from Mareko Island Creations in downtown Avarua. A great selection of colours and sizes. See their advert on page 25.
Island Perfumes and Gifts
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Cooks CoRneR, avaRua Phone: 24238
www.perfumes.co.ck
www.facebook.com/PerfumesRaro
Great Cultural Experience! Cute little souvenir salt and pepper shakers in a number of styles are available from Treasure Chest. They have four stores on Rarotonga at Avarua, Muri Village, Edgewater Resort and The Rarotongan Beach Resort. See their advert on page 26. They have flowers for all occasions from weddings to birthdays and every special occasion in between. Island Craft are Interflora and Teleflora agents for flowers to be sent worldwide. See their advert on page 71.
PACIFIC WEAVE
Factory Outlet
Rito Hat, Cook Islands handmade
Visit our factory:
Handmade local Crafts products for your skin & Woven from around hair, island perfumes, the gifts and Pacific and Mauke Miracle Oil, Cook Islands 120 ml: souvenirs.
hand cooked oil with skin healing qualities.
Just before Airport - Panama, Call: Perfumes of Rarotonga: 25238, Pacific Weave 27535, Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 9:00ESCAPE - 4:30, Sat •9:00-1:00, 19 Onlineshop: www.perfumes.co.ck, www.facebook.com/PerfumesRaro
raro rhythm
GUITAR HEAVEN –
Anania Browne I
n his early 20’s Anania Browne is currently the Cook Islands very own guitar legend in the making. His father Bobby Browne is one of this country’s leading entertainers, recording artists, musician and musical directors with a career that has spanned decades and continues to inspire not only his son but many Pacific artists. I sat down with Anania to talk about his ongoing journey to guitar brilliance and who continues to influence and inspire him. What I discovered is that at his core it is of course his father.
Story: Glenda Tuaine Photos: Ronnie Suilepa
Over Easter a local music festival is held in Rarotonga called “The Beach Day Out”. This sees local musicians create a day filled with music, food, and activities. It is on that day that a common music festival phenomenon occurs “the air guitar shredders”. In a nutshell in case you do not understand the term this is when a bunch of guys standing or sitting mimic guitar legend behaviour. In Rarotonga that happens when Anania Browne takes the stage and blasts his shredding skills for all to see!
20 • ESCAPE
Ananias’ tale to guitar is not a typical one. He jokes that his father would have loved to see a guitar in his hands at five but Anania’s interests were in Rugby, Rap and Hip Hop. Until his early teens Anania had literally no interest in playing guitar and jokingly admits that he did not understand why his friends were fascinated and in awe when his father played guitar. It was when the family took a holiday to New Zealand and Anania became seriously ill ending up in hospital that the guitar became a thing of wonder. “I developed a condition called Osteomyelitis in my hip. I had to stay in hospital for a long time, so I asked Dad to bring me in a guitar and show me some things.” Anania explains how he felt playing his first chord. “I was in bed, I played the simplest chord. It gave a great feeling, like one chord blew me away and that was the start.” The family returned to Rarotonga and Anania’s hunger to learn about guitar became all consuming, hounding his father to show him more chords and techniques. He is introduced to the history of guitar and Anania launches himself on a journey of discovery into the different genres of music and the significant game changers. Mix this with some solid guitar rivalry when he discovers his school friends are now well ahead of him with basic guitar skills and a fire starts to burn. He becomes more determined and seeks out other ways to increase his knowledge and skills finding albums of all the
guitar legends and concert videos with guitar close ups that he can freeze, rewind and watch over and over again. It is also in Anania’s teenage years that his Dad becomes the Musical Director at the church they attended. Bobby Browne forms a band for the youth and starts teaching song structure and composition. Anania remembers “He would talk to me about music and different styles and not to limit myself. He would say try your best to learn every style even if there is a style you don’t like just appreciate it. I took it all on board, words of wisdom from my Dad. He can walk the talk you know.” Anania is introduced to Rock, Spanish, Country, Jazz, Blues, Classical and much more. This young Cook Island boy is amazed at the different styles and possibilities and of course one of the worlds ultimate guitar heroes, Jimi Hendrix. “I was like wow that is me! I want to be like that. I liked the rebel idea at a time when it was formal he didn’t care and played how he wanted to. Dad kept teaching me and then we got to Heavy Metal and I was completely blown away. I was hooked.” And hooked he was, jokingly telling me he would go to sleep playing guitar and wake up to play guitar always thinking he was not good enough, always believing he needed to be better. A mantra he still carries with him today. Anania is a Cook Islands Musical talent that strives for excellence. He is an extremely proud Raro boy, smart, intelligent and respectful of the great musicians and of his culture. When I ask him about his dreams his goal is to play on the international stage and when asked about himself he will proudly announce he is from Rarotonga. When they don’t know where that is, he will happily inform everyone where and how beautiful his country is. In 2017 Anania will attend the Guitar festival in Tahiti which will no doubt launch other opportunities for him. He hopes this trip will also provide him with the opportunity to meet one of his idols Petiot who in the day played in the Original Barefoot Boys. Petiot’s style of traditional Cook Islands / Tahitian picking has been a big influence on Anania as he explains that many people go to Ukulele to play in that style but originally it came from Guitar. He is influenced by many musicians that are not the mainstream and tells me about Yngwie Malmsteen a Swedish neo classical guitarist who plays heavy metal and Niccolo Paganini an Italian Violinist from the 18th century who was the ‘Jimi Hendrix’ of the time and who is known as the first shredder. “He was the rebel of his time every technique we use today was his really. When I look at what he left the world on his sheet music he is amazing.” I would recommend going and seeing Anania Browne play when in Rarotonga it is well worth it. You can catch him on Tuesday nights at the Shipwrecked bar in the ‘Rocking Jandals duo’, Wednesday nights at Sails Restaurant playing in his duo call ‘InstruMENtal’, on Thursday nights solo at Flambe, on Friday and Saturday nights at Boogies Bar with the Boogies band, and finally on Sunday nights at Cocoputt Ale House in ‘The Rocking Jandals Band’.
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e s i d a r Pa
Rarotonga – a pacific
Story: Rachel Reeves
Rarotonga, the most populous of the Cook Islands, captivates about 120,000 hearts a year. Whether you’ve been here once or have been returning annually for decades, you know Rarotonga as paradise, an escape from the drudgery of traffic and consumerism, a window into a simpler past.
Photo: Kirby Morejohn
22 • ESCAPE
O
nce you’ve visited an outer island, your perspective changes; you notice the modern conveniences available on Rarotonga, the trucks and supermarkets and nightclubs, but still you appreciate the pace of life. Still you notice that there aren’t any stoplights and the same musician greets every flight. You notice that people wave at oncoming traffic. You notice there are only two bus routes: clockwise and anti-clockwise. You notice that on Rarotonga, time slows down. When there’s nothing on either television channel, when you don’t have easy access to Wi-Fi, you learn to be outside, smell the flowers, taste the fruit, appreciate the sun and stars, and commit to memory the natural beauty that’s been seducing travelers for centuries.
The first visitors to Rarotonga were the Māori people who came, depending on who you believe, from either Avaiki – the mythological centre of Polynesia – or East Asia or South America. Some continued on to settle New Zealand – you can read about their canoes on plaques at Avana, the site of their departure – but others were hooked. They had travelled over thousands of kilometres, searching for islands, navigating not with GPS but by reading the stars, swells, and skies. They were migratory people, comfortable at sea, but on Rarotonga they built homes of coconut trunks and fronds, planted crops, and created a society in which everyone had enough to eat. Rarotonga’s inhabitants split into three villages – Takitumu, Te Au O Tonga, and Puaikura, each with its own governing chief. Centuries later the Europeans arrived, and were also entranced by the island’s breathtaking beauty. A book written in 1842 documenting early missionary work describes Rarotonga this way: “its hills and valleys are rich in the fruits of the earth: mighty trees overshadow the land, and grow down to the very borders of the sea; not in a dense unwholesome forest, shutting out the light of the sun;
but scattered here and there among the green hills, and affording a delicious shade; some are covered with beautiful flowers and some with light foliage, waving like plumes in the wind.” Nearly 200 years later, Rarotonga’s splendour continues to make this kind of impact. Despite the luxury resorts and 24-hour petrol stations that have since sprung from its soil, the island is still the kind of beautiful that makes your heart swell. You can’t watch an Arorangi sunset or climb one of Rarotonga’s mountains without feeling awestruck by the beautiful world we live in. You can’t drive a motorbike around the island, with the wind in your face and the salt on your skin, past coconut palms, banana and papaya trees, and remain undecided about whether you love this place. Rarotonga might be just 32 kilometres around, but she is versatile, with creeks and swimming holes and waterfalls some locals don’t even know about. Take a walk or ride a scooter along the back road or into the mountains; hear the air get quieter
ESCAPE • 23
shipwrecked in 1916 – and then jump off it into the sea.
and the birds get louder. Watch the bush get thicker. You won’t get lost if you remember to use the sound of the waves as your compass.
From the air The best way to see all of Rarotonga is from the air. If you miss the view when the plane lands, and if you’re willing to shell out the money, Air Rarotonga does private aerial tours in a small Cessna. A cheaper option is to hike one of the island’s many peaks. Most require a tour guide, but a hike to The Needle, and across the middle of the island, is manageable and clearly marked. You’ll need good fitness and good shoes. Locals are friendly; ask anyone how to get to the start of the “cross-island walk” in Avatiu and they’ll point you in the right direction. The ascent is steep, but the view from the top makes the trudge worthwhile. From The Needle, one of Rarotonga’s tallest mountains, you can see every shore, ringed by a translucent lagoon, the white foam of waves crashing on the reef, and the yawning blue Pacific. It’s the kind of view that makes you feel tiny and insignificant, but also like you rule the world. Descending down the other side of The Needle will lead you to Wigmore’s Waterfall, one of the locals’ favourite swimming spots. For a more informative cross-island experience, book a tour with Pa, a traditional healer who grew up climbing mountains and studying the medicinal
24 • ESCAPE
properties of plants. Pa takes tourists across the island six days a week.
If you prefer to stay on the shore, engage with the sea by watching an outrigger canoe race, held weekly during the sport’s season. In November teams arrive from all over the world to compete in Vaka Eiva, an international paddling competition and Rarotonga’s largest sporting event. Between the months of July and October, be on the lookout for whales. You can learn more about them at the Whale & Wildlife Centre in Atupa.
From the water
And if you’re a surfer, you know the drill: respect the locals. It’s their wave.
To behold Rarotonga from the sea is to channel the joy its settlers must have felt. They would have been at once weary from the long voyage and awestruck by the dramatic mountains and white-sand beaches of their new home. There are dozens of ways to experience this view. You can spend the day on a fishing charter, casting for deep-sea fish under the tropical sun, or you can take a ride on a glass-bottom boat. Both Captain Tamas Lagoon Cruizes and Koka Lagoon Cruises make daily trips to Koromiri, a motu (islet) off Muri Beach. Each tour features a local string band and a barbecued lunch of freshly caught fish. At low tide, the Muri lagoon is shallow enough to walk to the motu with a picnic lunch and a towel. Dive shops hire out snorkeling gear, and the best place to see marine life is in an area protected by a ra’ui – a traditional ban on fishing and collecting seafood, imposed and lifted by chiefs. Signs mark the ra’ui; most snorkelers prefer the ra’ui at Fruits of Rarotonga in Tikioki and at The Rarotongan Resort & Spa in Arorangi. If you’re a certified SCUBA diver – or if you want to get certified – visit one of the three dive shops on the island. You can rent kayaks, take yoga classes on stand-up paddleboards or sign up for a kitesurfing lesson. You can swim to The Boiler – what’s left of the SS Maitai,
On land There’s always something to do on Rarotonga. There’s sport to watch – on Saturdays, village clubhouses host rugby, rugby league, netball, cricket, lawn bowling, and soccer matches, depending on the season. They also throw socials afterward, with cheap drinks and low entry fees. There’s a nine-hole golf course in Nikao, with a bar and eatery inside its clubhouse, and two miniature golf courses in Arorangi. There’s also a driving range in Vaimaanga. You can play paintball and laser tag; take cycling, quad, or buggy tours that go around the island; or hire bicycles (either manual or electric) to explore the side and back roads. You can take photos of the abandoned Sheraton – a hotel that was never finished because its developer, who had links to the Italian mafia, disappeared. If you believe the local legend, a curse on the land stalled the project. In Titikaveka, you can visit Maire Nui gardens, a sprawling, carefully manicured jungle with a quaint café. There are several art galleries around the island, and you can buy handcrafted ukuleles from inmates at the Arorangi Prison. The Punanga Nui marketplace on a Saturday morning is an essential itinerary
item. For locals, it’s a social outing; everyone goes. From 6 a.m., you can visit the open-air market to get your fresh nu (coconut water) and local fruits and vegetables. You can also buy cooked food, both international – the crepes and waffles are popular – and local delicacies. There’s something for every eater, from smoothies to stir-fry to sausage rolls. The Punanga Nui market is also a one-stop souvenir shop. You can buy everything from island music to large handmade quilts to coconut oil to hand-painted pareu (sarongs). Mamas sell hats and bags woven out of coconut fibre. Pearl farmers sell their black pearls, cultivated and harvested on the island of Manihiki, 1100 kilometres north of Rarotonga. If you miss the Punanga Nui market, there are souvenir shops around the island, most of them in Avarua, where you can pick up something for friends and family members who had the great misfortune of not joining you in paradise. A special way to immerse in the island culture is to attend a Sunday service at the Cook Islands Christian Church. The Cook Islands, like much of Polynesia, readily embraced Christianity; though the missionaries ruled in authoritarian ways, imposing outrageous fines and penalties on the disobedient, their gospel stuck. Church is a pillar of any Cook Islands community, both at home and overseas. Congregations are welcoming if you dress modestly, behave respectfully, and take
LOOKING FOR THAT IDEAL SOUVENIR TO TAKE HOME? Pop in and browse through our extensive range. We specialise in locally made and Pacific made products and we are well known for our island souvenirs, wooden crafts, arts, island jewellery and apparel. Look for the brightly decorated store opposite Avatiu Harbour.
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ESCAPE • 25
some gold coins for the offering plate. The power of the imene tuki – a blend of traditional chanting and Christian hymns – will stir your soul. Two museums in Avarua – the government-run National Museum and the private Cook Islands Library & Museum Society – are excellent resources for those seeking more information about Rarotonga and its history. The latter hires out books, or you can buy beach reads at Bounty Bookshop in Avarua.
Come in to view our extensive range of sarongs, island clothing, footwear and t-shirts. Rarotonga’s largest selection of souvenirs, crafts and gift ideas.
For beautiful food to suit any palette, try one of Rarotonga’s many restaurants; more information is available within the pages of this magazine. Whether you’re in the mood for freshly caught fish, a burger, pizza from a wood-fired oven, French fare, or Asian fusion, Rarotonga’s got a restaurant for you.
From your seat Celebrations of culture occur almost nightly. Attending an “island night” a must during a holiday to Rarotonga. You get a chance to watch local dancing, energetic and sensuous, and hear local drumming, reportedly the best in the Pacific. If you dread the limelight, beware the ura piani, when dancers recruit tourists of the opposite sex for a number.
Mana Court, Avarua | Ph: 22325 Rarotongan Resort | Ph: 27325 Edgewater Resort | Ph: 28325 Pacific Village Muri | Ph: 21325 Hats
Salt & Pepper shakers
treasure@oyster.net.ck 26 • ESCAPE
At an island night, you’ll also get to try local food. Dishes like ika mata (fresh raw fish in coconut cream), rukau (taro leaves in coconut cream), taro, and poke (arrowroot and coconut cream with a pudding-like texture) are available at some shops and restaurants, but at an island night you can have them all, buffet-style. Hotels and cultural centres offer island nights for a range of budgets; talk to your accommodator about your options. If you’re on Rarotonga in August, you’ll get to experience the ultimate celebration of Cook Islands culture. A bit of background: Rarotonga’s chiefs consented to becoming a British protectorate in 1888; all of the Cook Islands were later handed over to
colonisers from New Zealand. In 1965, the country became self-governing, and every August, Rarotonga holds a festival to celebrate. Called Te Maeva Nui, the weeklong event features a parade of floats decorated with local foliage and a spectacular nightly show at the National Auditorium, in which villages and islands compete in singing, dancing, and drumming.
Weddings Rarotonga is a popular spot for destination weddings; hundreds of tourists get married here each year. On-island wedding planners can design a special ceremony on the beach, and liaise with hair and makeup artists, caterers, a celebrant, and photographers/videographers before you arrive. All you have to do is bring your loved ones and prepare mentally for a wedding you won’t soon forget. Cook Islanders are notoriously generous people, some of the most hospitable in the world. They will make you feel welcome, as long as you treat them with respect, the way you would anyone who invites you into her home. Be mindful of the fragile island environment also; as the travel adage goes, take nothing but photos and leave nothing but footprints. But above all, enjoy yourself and a place that makes you feel a little bit more alive. When you leave, you will join the ranks of hundreds of thousands of people around the world who think often of, and talk often about, Rarotonga, who dream of the day they’ll return.
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COOK ISLANDS ROAD RULES The main island of Rarotonga is circled by 2 roads – the main road along the coast or Ara Tapu and the back road or Ara Metua. Driving is on the left hand side of the road – the same as in New Zealand, Australia and United Kingdom. If you have a full driving licence from your home country then you are entitled to drive in the Cook islands for up to 6 months. If you are here longer then you must apply for a Cook Islands driving licence which can be obtained from the Cook Islands Police headquarters in downtown Avarua.
THE ROAD RULES ARE SIMPLE... 1 Maximum speed at all times for all vehicles is 50 km/h 2 If you do not have a Cook Islands motor cycle licence you must wear a helmet. 3 In villages, passing schools and in town the maximum
speed is 30 km/h 4 In villages, passing schools and in town the
maximum speed is 30 km/h
PEARL FARMER • RETAILER • WHOLESALER
5 Drink driving is an offence – you could face
Court and if convicted a fine or jail sentence 6 Be aware of dogs or animals running out from
properties wandering mainly on the back road You are here for a good time, do not ruin it through speed or drink driving. Call a Taxi 28862, 50908, 72888 or take an organised tour of the Island.
Lesley & Temu Okotai Harbour House, Avatiu P. 20635 farmdirectpearls@gmail.com
IN AN EMERGENCY CALL 999 NON EMERGENCIES: Police 22499 • Hospital 22664 • Power faults 25257 AITUTAKI: Police 31015 • Hospital 31698 • Fire 31829 ATIU: Police 33120 • Hospital 33664
ESCAPE • 27
Fiery Flambé… Flambé Restaurant, situated directly at the entrance to the Crown Beach Resort, opened on the 23rd of May this year with a amboyant Opening Event nished off with the sound of pounding Island drums and a spectacular reworks display. Since this date, the Flambé team of dedicated staff have lovingly taken the Flambé name and it’s reputation for attentive service and outstanding cuisine – up and into our tropical stratosphere… The Flambé menu has been inspired by the ancient Cook Island legend of the demi-god Maui, who entered the underworld via an opening at Black Rock, disguised as a red pigeon. With the help of his mother plus the use of some cunning and guile, he nally wrestled the secret of how to make re from his grandfather, the god Ma’uike. Executive Chef de Cuisine, Jocelyn Ballantyne, has skillfully crafted a menu that not only uses as much local produce and sh as possible, but also offers unusual dishes that include ostrich, venison, duck and much more. This restaurant’s style of cuisine celebrates the classical culinary art of Flambé, with succulent meat cuts and
28 • ESCAPE
local sh taking on that characteristic char-grilled delicious nish. Desserts at Flambé are without question a feast for the eyes, as well as heaven for the taste buds… with maverick and imaginative presentation featuring the opposing elements of re and ice. Guests are often inspired to take out their i-phones to capture the drama of Crepe Suzettes being prepared especially for them at the table, or to witness the marvel of a handmade ice igloo - encapsulating the [in] famous Belgium chocolate and almond semi-freddo. The skilful use of original local artwork, a very photogenic champagne glass- clad central chandelier, mood lighting, an outside dining gazebo and bar, and a coral waterfall that challenges the intensity of a ercely burning brazier – makes for an unusually mesmerising ambiance; made better still by live nightly entertainment, which is augmented every Friday and Saturday night with the addition of a spectacular re dance display.
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WOOD FIRED 6
OPEN DAYS LUNCH • DINNER PH 53330 EAT IN OR TAKE AWAY Salads and wraps also available at lunchtime.
Located opposite the Punanga Nui Markets (next to the Bond Liquor store)
Tropical Garden Restaurant and Bar
Casual and friendly Asian street-style café Vietnamese, Indonesian, Chinese, Malaysian, Thai.
Check out our ‘all-day’ breakfast menu Muri Village and join us for awesome Phone: 22232 or 75449 coffee, friendly service and great home style cooking.
Try our custard square and cheesecake – local favourites! Open Sunday – Friday 8.00am – 3pm Located on the main road at Muri Village. Wifi available.
P. 20858
vailable
You’ll find us in a unique island setting in Arorangi, just 70 metres from Edgewater Resort. Open 7 nights from 6pm. Taste and feel what the islands are all about in a casual dining atmosphere! • full a-la-carte menu • fresh fish and great steaks • vegetarian and children’s dishes • incredible seafood platter for two • wheelchair access available
ed reservations recommend
ph 20501
island cuisine
cooked it cut with the least amount of pressure and melted in your mouth. All portions were a good size and left us feeling fully satisfied with the experience. Other mains available include roasted New Zealand rack of lamb topped with local vegetables and a pasta dish of bacon, mushroom and tomatoes tossed in fettucine with parmesan.
TAMANU BEACH Aitutaki
As we were staying at one of the top resorts in Aitutaki it was only fitting to try the food and see if it also came to the very high standards of the resort. We were not disappointed, in fact we were amazed, no more so than a committed “not a vege eater”. The Tamanu resort is located on the western side of Aitutaki so gets the fabulous sunsets the Cook Islands are so famous for. The restaurant at Tamanu is located right next to the beach and between the two villa blocks for convenience of all guests. After an afternoon spent snorkeling in the clear lagoon and checking out the giant clam, followed by a canoe attempt it was time to tidy up and visit the onsite restaurant. We were shown to our table by Ramona and after getting drinks served by Maxine set about our meal. The tables are well spaced and far enough apart to allow you to talk with those at your table without needing to shout above any one else. The entrees served by Chris were a roast tomato and basil and also a Caesar salad. The Caesar salad was made with bacon, chicken and beautifully crispy croutons
30 • ESCAPE
drizzled with a homemade Caesar dressing and all topped off with a perfectly cooked poached egg. The roasted tomato and basil with mushrooms, peppers and pinenuts was topped with a to die for sauce which made it an absolute delight to eat.
The food as cooked by Chef Masi and his assistant Marie and the rest of the kitchen staff was an absolute delight and well in keeping with Tamanu’s catch phrase of “casual luxury”. The restaurant has views down to the lagoon and is the perfect place for a relaxing drink or meal to watch the sunset over the Pacific. Many thanks to Maitre D Katherine and her staff for a great and memorable night. SW
For main courses we were offered a selection of fine dishes. To start with there was lemon pepper crusted wahoo medallions served with mixed local vegetables and roast maniota, all with a roast garlic and lemon butter sauce. The fish was cooked perfectly and the pepper crust was tangy and the accompanying vegetables and sauce set it off nicely. The Thai green seafood curry had more than enough seafood. Apart from pieces of fish there were also prawns and scallops and local vegetables each just cooked so that they still retained the required taste and texture. The curry was accompanied by steamed rice, poppadum and a selection of condiments. For a last taste of mains there was grilled eye fillet steak wrapped in bacon and accompanied by crushed olive potatoes and grilled basil tomatoes with just enough Hollandaise sauce not to detract from the taste of the steak. The steak was requested medium rare and that was what was delivered. While a steak knife was available, the steak was so perfectly
The restaurant is open 7 days a week for breakfast lunch and dinner with special nights on Sundays being a family barbeque (this is when you actually get to meet and talk with the resort owners, a rarity in some parts of the world). Their famous Island Night “Takurua” is on a Thursday and you must definitely book to go to that as it is a night not to miss. Tamanu Beach, great accommodation, fantastic setting and some of the best food to be found in the Cook Islands.
Tuoro Licensed
OPEN 7 NIGHTS · MAR – OCT WED – MON • REST OF THE YEAR
Club Raro
Avarua (Town)
Arorangi
Matavera
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Edgewater
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Located in Arorangi on the Main Road (500 metres from the Edgewater toward Avarua)
Muri
The Rarotonga Beach Resort
Titikaveka
· Open from 6pm - best to reserve a table! · Return transfers available by arrangement & location · Live music with Tani & Rose on Mon nights · Fully licensed
Great Food! Great Views! Great Service!
Gordon, Rebecca & The Kikau Team Phone: 26860 ˙ Mobile: +682 55869 Email: kikauhut@oyster.net.ck
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blackrok@oyster.net.ck ESCAPE • 31 www.blackrockvillas.com
THE YELLOW HIBISCUS RESTAURANT Rarotonga
The Yellow Hibiscus Restaurant is a delightful restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily on the southern side of Rarotonga at Vaimaanga. It is located at Palm Grove Resort in a very beautiful setting with inside and outside tables (all undercover) and also a garden area. When we arrived on a quiet Thursday night at The Yellow Hibiscus we were met by a friendly young lady who offered us a choice of tables, either inside or slightly outside but still under cover. We chose to sit inside and look out over the garden area. The tables were all nicely set up, very crisp, fresh and clean with white cloths and napkins and brown table mats. We were given menus and asked if we would like a drink, and as we are beer drinkers we ordered our two Heinekens, once these were served we were left to make our selections while sipping our drinks and enjoying the peaceful evening atmosphere of the restaurant. After studying the delicious sounding menu, and there was plenty to choose from including fish, shrimps, prawns, pork, chicken and steak, we made our choices of a crumbed mussels dish and a shrimp salad for our entrees which arrived looking very appealing and were extremely tasty. The crumbed mussels were served on
lettuce leaves with a garlic aioli (or you could have had tartare sauce), they were in crispy breadcrumbs and were tender and juicy – just the way they should be. The shrimp salad was served in a fresh pawpaw with a delicious calypso sauce which all combined made a delightfully refreshing course to start your evening meal. For our mains we had selected a coconut curry which consisted of local broadbill pan fried with a unique mix of spices and herbs infused with coconut cream. This was served with rice, salad and a poppadum, with a choice of mild or spicy. The curry was just right with a nice combination of fish and vegetables. The second main we picked off the specials board – grilled spearfish over a bed of sautéed vegetables and steamed rice. Again everything was beautifully presented and beautifully cooked – a very lovely meal. By this time, we were both getting rather full so decided to share a dessert we had spotted on the menu and just had to try… Pawpaw crepe, dusted with cinnamon and rolled in cream, served with ice cream and a drizzle of butterscotch sauce. Well, well it seems we did have enough room for this delicate and divine dessert. The perfect end to a lovely night and many many
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thanks to the lovely staff of Mata, Aroa, Metua, Tuai, Mary and Raui who ensured we had an enjoyable meal. Would definitely recommend a visit to The Yellow Hibiscus Restaurant if you are looking for somewhere to dine out in fact we have already been back and had an equally lovely meal and only changed one main to a rib-eye steak on mashed kumara with a side salad which was perfectly cooked and very tasty. Plus, we tried a different dessert – this time the chocolate coconut crème brulee – yum yum again a perfect end to a dining experience!!! MW
Open daily 8-10am for breakfast, 12-2pm for lunch, bar from 5pm and dinner from 6pm. Dinner is a la carte Mon-Sat and Sunday is BBQ. Live music Tues, Fri and Sun.
On the waterfront at Avana Harbour
Located at Banana Court complex, Avarua, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
Breakfast & Lunch
“ Where meals and memories are made...”
Relax and enjoy your Breakfast, Lunch, a cup of espresso coffee, an icy cold beer or your favourite drink while gazing out to the beautiful lagoon. We serve authentic Thai food, tasty Mexican, burgers, fish and chips, home-made desserts and much more…
Mince Pork Salad
Open Sunday - Friday 7.30am - 4.00pm
PH 23236 MOB 56604 coelhos@oyster.net.ck
Opening Hours Sunday to Thursday 9:00am – 2:30pm
Down south in Titikaveka
Tel.(+682)20020
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S ALTWATER CAFE - R AROTONGA
The Café in a Container!
The original fresh fish sandwiches & salads, all with homemade dressings & pickles, cooked to perfection right on the waterfront. The tasty & healthy option! Mon to Fri: 10.30 to 3.30 Sun: 12.00 to 4.00 Sat: Closed
Phone 25553 take-outs available Find us on Facebook
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OTB – A SUPERB, SUNSET RESTAURANT Rarotonga
OTB is a 60-plus seater restaurant that’s literally on the beach and part of the quality Manuia Beach Resort complex in Arorangi. This is a wonderfully located island style restaurant that delivers superb contemporary cuisine. It is the perfect setting for an evening meal enjoyed in the gentle glow of a setting sun that eases into balmy tropical evenings. Chef/Owner Phillip Nordt has added the degustation experience to the OTB menu offering eight, five, four and three courses which can be paired with recommended wines. Tonight is Degustation Night. The sun has set and evening clouds are mirrored in the still lagoon, providing an impeccable setting for the OTB degustation experience. Opting for the half-way mark between three and eight, we choose the four-course degustation featuring the freshest local game fish accompanied by locally grown organic fruit, vegetables and herbs…and Phillip’s delicious sauces. Our table is on the beach, we’ve kicked off our shoes, the evening is perfect and knowing Chef Phillips’ reputation, our expectations are high. The first course is beautifully presented yellow fin and albacore tuna sashimi, lime and coriander wahoo ceviche and tatakistyle sushi. A light soy ponzu, wasabi, pickled ginger and sprinkling of mustard greens completes this fine introductory course. All the fish were caught during the
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early hours of that morning – the fresh, delicate taste of these melt-in-your-mouth portions is a superb start. Our meal is nicely paired with a 2014 Ned Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand’s Marlborough region – delicious, refreshing sips complimenting each mouthful of food. Arriving next is a plate bearing a perfectly seared wedge of albacore tuna laid on a bed of sautéed cucumber shavings, delicate red onion slices, fresh local ginger, mirin and palm sugar. The tuna, first rolled in herbs and spices, is crispy on the outside, progressing wonderfully to a tender and tasty centre. Collect a little bit of everything on your fork and you have wonderful, clean flavours that dance with each other. For the third course, Chef Phillip promises something unexpected – the transformation of skipjack tuna. We gladly accept his recommendation to pair this dish with a 2014 Jules Taylor Pinot Noir also from the Marlborough region (thanks again Bond Store!). The third course is proof of Chef Phillip’s ability to transform ordinary skipjack into something quite extraordinary. If we hadn’t already known we were getting game fish, we would have thought we’d been served beef tenderloin. The fish has been cooked with precision in a red wine reduction sauce infused with beef jus – it is tender, moist and utterly delicious. Accompanied with a bed of organic seared aubergine, fried tomatoes, banana, pineapple and bush basil– this is legend! The luscious red wine sauce is too good to waste, so we are pleased there’s Chef Phillip’s own kumara pide bread to mop it all up with. Away with manners for this delicious moment. From the dessert menu we chose – nougat parfait and chocolate brulee with an intense flavoured orange biscotti. This
is not just any chocolate brulee – this is made with premium French chocolate Valrhona Manjari. Rich, velvety and utterly scrumptious. Chef Phillip says just before serving he gives the brulee a “good hiding with the torch” to give it a marvellous crust. A beautifully crisp meringue crowns the delectable rich nougat parfait which is wonderfully offset by the tartness of Matavera oranges, pineapple and passionfruit – divine. Chef Phillip advocates using mainly local organic vegetables, fruit and herbs getting his daily supplies from small farmers around Rarotonga. He resigned from being head tutor of Culinary Arts at the Cook Islands Hospitality and Tourism Training Centre to focus on making OTB one of the best fine dining restaurants on Rarotonga. Of note is that Phillip has a BA in Culinary Arts and is studying for his Masters. He trained his award-winning Cook Island students for international culinary Arts competitions like Toque D’or and City and Guilds. Married to a Cook Islander, Chef Phillip has an ingrained affinity for island food and skill to take these tropical tastes to new, exciting levels. He says; “If we touch people enough so they come to the kitchen and say a special thank you to you, that’s really special.” Tonight we have seen several diners extend appreciation for their superb meals. We will not be the last to do the same this evening. Florence Syme-Buchanan OTB Bar and Restaurant Tel: +682 22461
TAMARIND HOUSE
RESTAURANT & BAR
Casual and friendly Asian street-style café Vietnamese, Indonesian, Chinese, Malaysian, Thai.
MURI VILLAGE Fresh flavours of Mexico for dinner, plus fresh fish, pizza, vegan, and gluten free. Open for Dinner from 5.30pm Closed Thursdays
Muri Village Phone: 22232 or 26487
CAFES & RESTAURANTS RAROTONGA
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See you there amigo! P. 20693 or 26487
LUNCH: TUES – FRI 11.30 AM – 2 PM (CLOSED MON AND SAT LUNCH) DINNER: MON – SAT FROM 5.30 PM SUNDAY BRUNCH: (APRIL – OCTOBER) FROM 9 AM – 1.30 PM
A beautiful heritage colonial house, located on the seafront, just 3 minutes from the town centre. Dine by candlelight in the peaceful seclusion of a romantic tropical setting. THE PERFECT VENUE FOR YOUR WEDDING OR PRIVATE FUNCTION
EMAIL tamarind@oyster.net.ck www.tamarindrarotonga.com
PHONE 26487
Pacific Resort, Muri Village Ph 20427
The Rarotongan Beach Resort, Aro’a Ph 25800
The Yellow Hibiscus Ph 20002
Silver Sands, Muri Village Ph 23000
The Mooring Fish Café, Avana Ph 25553 Little Polynesian, Titikaveka Ph 24280
CAFES & RESTAURANTS
Bamboo Jacks, Taputaputea Ph 28830
Tuoro, Black Rock Ph 21233
Kikau Hut, Arorangi Ph 26860
Saltwater Café, Turoa Ph 20020
La Casita, Muri Village Ph 20693
Aitutaki Village Ph 31526
Bite Time/ Body Fuel, Punanga Nui Ph 23577/ 23575
The Rickshaw, Muri Village Ph 22232
Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa Ph 31200
Tamarind House, Tupapa Ph 26487
Aro’a beach Shipwreck Hut, Aro’a Ph 22166
Aitutaki Escape Ph 31906
Kai Pizza, Punanga Nui Ph 53330
Trader Jacks, Avarua Ph 26464
Boatshed Ph 31479
Nautilus Resort, Muri Village Ph 25125
Tumunu, Arorangi Ph 20501
Koru Café Ph 31110
Club Raro Ph 22415
Deli Licious, Muri Village Ph 20848
Tamanu Beach Ph 31810
OTB, Arorangi Ph 22461
Coelho’s, Downtown Avarua Ph 23236
AITUTAKI
Pacific Resort Aitutaki, Rapae Bay Ph 31720
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THE NAUTILUS RESORT Rarotonga
The Nautilus Resort is pure South Pacific beachfront luxury overlooking Rarotonga’s sparkling white-sanded Muri Beach and lagoon and just 20 minutes by road from Rarotonga’s international airport. The Nautilus Restaurant, the resorts signature restaurant, is already adding to its trophy cabinet. At the La Chaine des Rotisseurs and Cook Islands Chefs Association Restaurant of the Year Awards dinner, the top award and gold medal went to Nautilus Resort’s Restaurant. The awards were chosen by hundreds of the most powerful and fussy critics – the diners themselves. The laid-back luxury of Nautilus Resort offers a fresh new dining experience showcasing signature tastes of Polynesia and featuring a Polynesian inspired restaurant, with an enviable location of absolute pure South Pacific beachfront. The cuisine is Polynesian Asian - European fusion, championing local seasonal ingredients and produce, with of course an emphasis on organic fresh produce and an abundance of fresh seafood and local fish. Imagine the flavours of tropical lime, coconut, mango or taro-leaf puree with local and imported key ingredients. Nautilus Executive chef Craig Knudsen has spent over ten years working in renowned
Australian restaurants from Margaret River to the Great Barrier Reef and most recently Qualia Resort, Hamilton Island, Queensland. Jane and Paul Pearson, visionaries of Nautilus Resort now welcome Craig as their Executive Chef. Craig and his international team of chefs are passionate about creating unique dishes utilising the local organic produce grown right here at the resort and the local area... The resorts own ‘edible gardens’ allows the guests to explore and learn about locally grown fruits, vegetables and herbs. The resorts’ chefs focus on working closely with seasonal, locally grown village produce (assisting local growers), as well as culturing and harvesting wild produce from the sea, shoreline and pasture of the Cook Islands. All are welcome to experience the changing beauty of the Nautilus Restaurant from the serenity of a health giving breakfast from 7.30am, whilst watching the day come alive… to the afternoon glow of the setting tropical sun while enjoying the famous Nauti Mojito... which includes a couple of secret ingredients and pioneered the sugar-cane swizzle stick... Nauti but nice! And finishing the sun-drenched day and moving into the balmy tropical night indulging in a gourmand experience. The casual Beach Bar is serving light meals from 11am to 9pm, where lunch includes a selection of nourishing light meals,
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gourmet meat and fish burgers, share platters and creative island salads. Weddings and functions are an admired Nautilus Resort specialty with a personal Weddings & Event Planner and on-site Co-ordinator Team. From a beachfront marquee to a private dining room overlooking the lagoon to an outdoor beachfront patio, Nautilus can cater for an intimate gathering or for groups of up to 150. The resort is redefining laid-back luxury, the 4.5 star rated accommodation and facilities, Nautilus features Polynesian inspired one, two or three bedroom villas (are) each with a private salt-water plunge pool, a Thalgo Polynesian Spa with a wide range of luxurious treatments for men and for women, a Kids’ Concierge for families and professional event-planners to help organise celebratory parties, honeymoons or romantic tropical weddings. Water sports on your doorstep including free kayaks, stand-up paddle boards and snorkelling equipment. Nautilus Resort - a new, authentic South Pacific experience in cool elegant luxury. The quintessential tropical escape on glorious Rarotonga that promises to make every day reality fade away.
Located at PUNGANA NUI MARKET (BESIDE THE PLAYGROUND), AVARUA
c i t n e h t u A e n i s i u C n a i s A A TAST E OF A S I A
Sashimi & Carpaccio Ika Mata Seafood Platters Fish, Chips & Salad Gourmet Sandwiches
Fish N Chips $13.00
All day breakfast And heaps more
Ika Mata $10.00
Mon 8am – 4pm Tues – Fri 8am – 9pm Sat 8am – 2pm
A short stroll east of town PH: 28830 or EMAIL: bamboojacks@gmail.com
Fishermans Platter $18.00
We also have an air-conditioned private room for dining & meetings (with conference facilities)
P. 23 577 Phone orders welcome Mon – Sat 6:30am – 4pm
P. 23 575 Phone orders welcome
Fresh Sushi
No.1 ! for seafood
Cabinet food daily Freshly squeezed Juice Boosts Healthy & delicious Smoothies Espresso Coffee & Cake And heaps more
Located beside the playground Punanga Nui Market, Avarua
try our
Pizza Shack eat in or take out
Best chocolate brownie in Raro!
PH 26464 • info@traderjacks.co.ck ESCAPE • 37
Fishing
Gone
Story: Phillip Nordt
Firstly, and before we even look at what to fish or what to do with our catch is how to catch that fish! When we are going for Tuna, we usually use some traditional fishing methods, but today we are going for Mahi Mahi, one of the best and most versatile eating fish and we are trolling.
Today’s Fish Mahi Mahi... in my opinion a wonderful fish which lends itself to every single preparation method, but the key is … use everything as it’s a great tasting and eating fish: After a few rounds we landed a regular size Mahi Mahi and as we want to explore what to do with it and how to cook this delicate fish…we head home very excited about what we are about to do with our catch. Because of the lovely flavour of bones and everything we decided to fillet both sides, half each side into tail end and thick end 50/50%.
Curing/Marinating Mahi Mahi We cold cure the thinner tail end sides with a simple palm sugar/salt 50/50 ratio, sprinkle lightly with lemon zest, dill. Put this mix on one side, put the other fish side on top and wrap tight with cling film. Put in tray, weigh down with at least 5 kg and put in fridge for 24 hours, clean tray and remove liquid, turn fish, weigh down
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and cure for another 24 hours... now this fish will last about 1-2 weeks in a cold fridge and will be delicious thinly sliced on Crostini, bruschetta, Fougasse or any other base. I would serve it on Bruschetta with a Wasabi/Lime/Mayonnaise, but works with any other starch such as taro slices or Kumara bread. The cured fish, needs to be kept dry and in a very cold fridge or frozen and should be sliced like Gravlax (cured Salmon) very thin. It's a great accompaniment with fried oysters or seafood fritters and citrus sauce, on rye bread, in salads. You can wrap other fish or oysters in it. Traditionally it was rolled up like a flower and served on canapés.
Poaching Mahi Mahi in a Fume or Court Bouillon This preparation method we will also use as a cold application, but poach it first in a court bouillon and cool in its own liquid. Of course, you can chuck it on the charcoal BBQ and it will be excellent... but we want more... what we want is a few different and
exciting dishes. The huge advantage of this stock and preparation method is that is can be kept and enjoyed from the fridge for 3 days and also freezes well, and is very moist with a nice bite to it.
Today’s Mahi Mahi preparation methods We fillet both sides of the fish, cut up the bones and head and wash them various times to get rid of impurities. Then use a large pot and when I say large I mean LARGE... .the surprising part is that my students always use utensils that are too small and they still do in my restaurant!! … anyway, I use Extra Virgin Coconut Olive Oil of Rito …and I truly believe this is the best in the world!! …foams up like butter and tastes delicious.
Recipe Ingredients #EVO Coconut Oil x 2 tbl spoons Leek x 1 chopped Onions x 2 chopped Lemon Gras x 1 stalk crushed Tomatoes x 2 de-skinned, de-seeded chopped Carrots x 2 peeled chopped Celery stalks x 3 chopped Garlic x ½ bulb Ginger x 20 g crushed Chilli x 1 deseeded fresh Coriander roots/stalks x 5 Italian Parsley Stalks x 5 Fish bones off cuts x 2 kg
White wine dry x 1 ltr Water x 3 ltrs Palm Sugar x 50 gms Salt Pepper to season Method 1. Heat Pot, add Coconut Oil 2. Add fish pieces and sauté for a few minutes until sealed 3. Add all vegetables and stir until glassy 4. Deglaze with Tomato 5. Season with Salt & Pepper 6. Deglaze with white wine 7. Add Water…start skimming as the broth is heating 8. Simmer and continuously skim for 2025 minutes 9. Bouillon should be clear if you did it right 10. S train Court bouillon with Muslin cloth, set aside 11. Season with Salt & Pepper to taste
well with this dish, garnish with mustard leaves and serve. You can use this cold fish also for any salads or snacks. In fine dining, I use it for canapes and as follows: a) Potted Mahi Mahi, mustard greens, salsa verde, lime oil or lime aioli b) Poached Mahi Mahi, green onion & coconut sauce c) I t’s great in an application like Salad Nicoise, matched with cooked potato, egg, beans, greens & vinaigrette d) It’s great in Tacos and Sandwiches e) Makes great entrée dishes like a cold Coconut & Paw Paw Soup with renga & coriander The individual parcels can be jellied and presented in Aspic or served with a veloute sauce. That’s it for today, enjoy! Phillip
Poached & cold set Mahi Mahi On a bed of aromatic vegetables as per above place the Mahi Mahi side on the vegetables, add the court bouillon and bring to a simmer, submerge in the hot liquid, cover with Foil and place into the fridge. Once set overnight the fish liquid would have slightly jellied up and you can cut your fish into bite size entrée pieces with the vegetables underneath and serve to your guests with a small fresh Salad and a lemon or lime vinaigrette... Salsa Verde (green herb sauce) also goes very
ESCAPE • 39
Te Vara Nui THE REAL
V
ara Hunter has the kind of face that suggests she was once strikingly beautiful and the kind of spirit that suggests she never really let it get to her head. Older generations remember her as a head-turner, the epitome of a Polynesian belle.
Today, Mama Vara smiles into the distance when she talks about those days – the lithe figure, the front-page photos, the time her thenhusband had a fight with actor Marlon Brando for coming onto her. As she talks about her beauty it’s as if it still surprises her, as if it wasn’t meant for her, a tomboy who would race her brother home from school so she could wear the slacks their mother laid out for him, and not the dress laid out for her. Vara grew up an island girl, milking her cows and scraping her knees climbing trees, and then suddenly she was winning beauty pageants in New Zealand and making enough money dancing to buy several houses. She spent her career performing dances from the Cook Islands, Maori, Tahitian, Samoan, and Hawaiian cultures at hotels, restaurants, and halls all over New Zealand. She danced for people who had never been exposed to Polynesian culture, in a time before commercial airlines were flying to Rarotonga. She toured with Sir Howard Morrison, the renowned Māori entertainer, modeled for Tip Top Ice Cream, and became the first female Pacific Islander to appear on national TV in New Zealand. That was a long time ago, before her seven children, before she and her then- husband built Ariana Bungalows and Vara’s Backpackers, before she won a lifetime achievement award for her contribution to the Cook Islands’ tourism industry. In the days since she stopped dancing, Vara’s body has grown older but her soul fuller. Her eyes brighten
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Story: Rachel Reeves
when she talks about the blessings that came later in life — seven children, one for each of the years she failed to get pregnant after she got married, plus 20 grandchildren and five greatgrandchildren. Some members of her tribe are dancing now, traveling overseas to perform, carrying the mantle their matriarch hung up when she retired from the limelight. Vara grew up on Rarotonga, in a time when people traveled to town via horsedrawn buggy. She inherited a Scottish surname from her great-grandfather and some German ancestry from her father, but both her parents were born and bred Cook Islanders. Vara’s father was a planter and her mother a homemaker who was so meticulous in managing the family’s finances that they could afford one of the only Chevrolets on Rarotonga at the time. The Cowans also owned pigs, cattle, and a goat that jumped into bed with Vara’s brother once. Vara had her own horse named Christmas, a slow animal that lost every race along Muri Beach; regularly she asked her father for another one. Otherwise her worries were few. She had dozens of cousins to play with, and they came often from Arorangi to stay the night with her in Muri. They would swim, play outdoors, pick fruit and sell it. Vara
Ph 24006
www.tevaranui.co.ck
loved being in the mountains or the sea. She hated when her mum tried to teach her how to knit, sew, or cook. As many local families do, the Cowans relocated to New Zealand so the kids could attend New Zealand schools. When Vara was seven, she boarded the Maui Pomare, a trading ship bound for Auckland. “I thought we were just going away for the weekend,” she recalls. “I had no idea about the world.” But as kids do, she adapted. She wore
the black stockings and winter hat of Seddon Memorial Technical College in Auckland. She became best friends with her antithesis — a girl who was blonde, Caucasian, skinny, and outgoing. The thing Vara loved most was going to the movies. She still talks about Hop-along Cassidy, Esther Williams, and Dorothy Lamour like they’re old friends she misses dearly. “I had so many boys asking me to go out but I never went once,” she says. “All I could think about is I got to do my study
WINNER 2016 / 17
Tourism Attractions Award ESCAPE • 41 Supreme Tourism Industry Award
because I want to make mum happy so she lets me go to the movies.” When she misbehaved and her mum withheld movie privileges, Vara would lock herself in her room and cry. She loved Cook Islands dancing almost as much as she loved movies. As a kid on Rarotonga her primary interests had been swimming and climbing trees, but as a teenager in New Zealand she was drawn to the dance of her homeland. She attended a church function in Auckland with her aunty one evening and when she saw the women dancing she knew she wanted to learn how to move like them. She took to performing in front of the mirror at home, safe in the privacy of her room, until one day her blonde friend came over and caught her. “You can dance!” her friend said. She implored Vara to enter a beauty and talent pageant. “Not on your life, I won’t do that,” Vara replied. But she thought about it. Her mother was strict and she wasn’t allowed to go out much, so it did feel like an act of freedom and rebellion. She agreed on the condition that her mother could never know, because if her mother found out she wouldn’t be able to go to the movies. Vara was the only contestant at the pageant whose mother did not attend. She was also the only contestant who wasn’t white. Her legs were shaking when she walked onstage. She placed second. One contest led to another, and when Vara placed second for the second time, her photo made the front page of the newspaper. Her mother found out about the pageants. She couldn’t go to the movies for three weeks.
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Vara married a boy from her school when she was 21. Her career was beginning to soar, and marriage represented the freedom to leave her mother’s house and go out dancing. Soon she acquired an agent and was doing gigs nearly every night. She got noticed. She modeled, did ads for television, danced at nightclubs. She danced in Sydney, in a time when there weren’t many Polynesians around. “This Greek man in Sydney said are you Hawaiian? I said no. He said Tahitian? I said no, Rarotongan. He said where’s that? I said do you have a map? He said I got one in my office, and I looked on his big map, and I couldn’t find the Cook Islands,” she says now, erupting into laughter. She danced in French Polynesia, where her grandfather did business. Vara loved Tahiti – more urban than Rarotonga, more tropical than New Zealand. The women were slim and beautiful, the Chinese shops sold the latest fashions, and the parties were lavish. In Tahiti, Vara was pursued by Marlon Brando, who was there filming Mutiny on the Bounty, and by a famous French soccer player whose name she can’t remember. She wasn’t interested. Vara danced until she had her first child – literally until she felt the pre-labour contractions – and then she continued dancing afterward. Her kids remember teams coming to the house for practices when they were growing up. By then, though, her focus had changed. “I think I was meant to be a mother,” she says. “I really enjoyed the role, and I still really enjoy helping my children even though they’re all grown up.” She gave birth to Conrad, Carl, and Maria in New Zealand, and to Bobby, Gene, Moana, and Liana after she and her husband moved to her home island. The move marked a new chapter of enterprise. Vara secured acres of inherited land all over Rarotonga and opened Ariana Bungalows, an accommodation facility for tourists. She and her husband teamed up with engineer Ian Rhodes and pilot Ewan Smith to establish Air Rarotonga; Vara was the necessary local partner. The company quickly grew into
Her legs were shaking when she walked onstage. She placed second. One contest led to another, and when Vara placed second for the second time, her photo made the front page of the newspaper. Her mother found out about the pageants. She couldn’t go to the movies for three weeks. a success, putting Cook Islands Air out of business. The Hunters’ next project was Vara’s Backpackers, a dormitory built at Vara’s family’s beach house. The facility became popular with tourists from all over the world and remained so until Vara’s daughter and son-in-law converted it into a luxury resort called Crystal Blue Lagoon Villas. Vara’s son Carl remembers picking up tourists from the airport who couldn’t wait
to meet Vara. “Mum had time for everyone,” he says. “Backpackers are young people and the word got around that she was like a mother to them. It used to blow me away – these young people would say we were in the Himalayas and Timbuktu and people who travelled to Rarotonga were talking about her, and now we’re here and we want to meet her.” Hospitality came easily to Vara, as it does to most Cook Islanders. She paid close attention to her guests and she found pleasure in selling her island, and in watching tourists fall in love with its beauty. These are the qualities for which she received an Outstanding Contribution to Tourism Award in 2016. They are also qualities her kids inherited. Several work in the tourism industry and run successful businesses in their home village, including Koka Lagoon Cruises and Te Vara Nui, the cultural village named after Vara. “She taught us that the tourism industry was something you could not just benefit financially from but also that there was this great satisfaction in seeing people – visitors – marvel at this country,” Carl says. “You’re there to witness that and to see how people’s lives are changed by coming to such a beautiful place as
Rarotonga, such a beautiful culture and beautiful people.” Now, Vara splits her time between her two daughters’ homes – one in Surfers’ Paradise, the other in Muri. She’s recovering from a leg injury, so she’s been spending most of her time studying her genealogy, reading, and welcoming the visitors who pop in. Daily, she laughs with joy at her energetic grandkids. She still wears her black hair long, and she puts on red lipstick and bright island dresses when she goes out. She doesn’t dance anymore – right now she’s moving with a walker – but she lives a full life, surrounded by her family. “I got a lot more stories,” she says, her grandson in her lap. “But yes, I enjoyed my life. I had a good life. No, not had. I have a good life.”
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Spa Ariki PROVIDING A FULL RANGE OF BEAUTY THERAPIES as well as...
Acupuncture, Acupressure, Ancient Ayurvedic Massage, Passive Skeletal Re-Alignment Phone 23953 for bookings
From water became life... The ocean is the amniotic fluid from which all life on this planet originated, without water - there is no life. Humankind’s gradual adaptation and ability to strive on land has required that our bodies undergo significant change to enable and maintain the critical balance of ‘pure’ water in our systems: which not only requires sufficient hydration but also removal of deadly toxins. However, unlike the many species that remain within our oceans, we have lost touch of our ability to be able to tap into the infinite life-force contained within every drop. It is this life-force that we need, to be able to maintain perfect physical and mental health. At Spa Ariki, our therapists understand that the secret to lasting beauty is certainly not skin deep…. And that in reality, it is largely dependent on the health of our interdependent and complex physiological systems. 44 • ESCAPE
This is why our beauty packages always incorporate treatments in reflexology, acupuncture, acupressure massage, elements of homeopathy and most importantly – WATER, sound and spiritual awakening therapy, leaving the application of organic beauty treatments to the very last. At Spa Ariki we build on beauty that has been reignited from within the body, which will ultimately be far more lasting than simply the application of surface / cosmetic beauty.
An elegant 4.5 star Polynesian styled boutique beachfront resort and restaurant. Showcasing 17 premium luxury villas set in tropical gardens, each featuring its own plunge pool.
Beachfront Restaurant & Bar Cook Islands ‘Restaurant of the Year 2015’
Exclusive Beachfront Wedding Ceremony & Reception Venue
Convertibles • Vans • Hatchbacks Fully Auto Scooters • Bicycles
TILUS U A N RESORT MURI BEACH
COOk ISLANDS
P: +682 25125 E: relax@nautilusresortrarotonga.com W: www.nautilusresortrarotonga.com
6 convenient locations Main Office, Avarua Downtown, Avarua Edgewater Resort Aroa (across from the Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa) Muri Beach Airport (international flights only) Roadside Assistance (8am to 10pm)
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SEAVA Reunion Rarotonga 2017
Tuavera is both the deputy leader of the Democratic Party and owner of Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes, a popular tourist attraction operating in Muri lagoon. In his other life, he was a career serviceman in the New Zealand Army.
Story: Rachel Reeves
I
t’s 10 months before the reunion, and in a bar on the beach, known locally as the RSA, home of the Cook Islands Returned and Serviceman’s Association, there is a planning meeting underway. A spreadsheet appears on a projector screen, featuring logistics that need sorting: buses, venues, meals, cooks, support staff, accommodation, transport.
“The devil is in the details,” says Major Stephanie Craw, a Cook Islander who’s currently on active reserve in the New Zealand Defence Force. She’s home for awhile, spending time with her family and helping to plan the largest reunion of servicemen and -women to occur in the Cook Islands. This is her game; she’s a logistician for the Army and responsible for moving people and equipment around the world. Cook Islands RSA president Tuoro Henry Wichman calls her a “people mover” – an apt job description for someone helping to arrange Anzac Day 2017, which is shaping up to be three times the size of Rarotonga’s typical ceremony. This is a helpful skill to a tiny team arranging Anzac Day 2017 on Rarotonga. Each year, to commemorate the occasion, just over 200 locals gather around the cenotaph outside the courthouse in Avarua. This year will be different. Soldiers and veterans from New Zealand, Australia, the U.K., and “the sand pit” – the army’s term for the Middle East – are coming to tiny Rarotonga for the Southeast Asia Veterans Association (SEAVA) reunion, a biennial event that unites those who served in Singapore and Malaysia between 1972 and 1989. At the association’s 2014 reunion in Papakura, Cook Islander Tamaiva Tuavera floated the idea of hosting the
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next event on Rarotonga. Members agreed that “because so many from the Cooks had served with the New Zealand Force, we should acknowledge their service and honour them all by coming over to join in with them on the Anzac Day celebrations,” says SEAVA New Zealand’s secretary Daryl Gregory.
Both his grandfathers and a granduncle served in World War II, so he grew up marching around his Rarotonga yard, standing at attention. As a kid, he dreamt of going to battle. For 20 years, he was one of the “Lost Boys,” who served during peacetime, and still feels a pang of regret that he didn’t make it to the front lines. He retired from active duty several years before New Zealand soldiers were deployed to East Timor. “If you’re a soldier, especially in the infantry, and there’s a war you want to go,” he says. “That’s what you sign up for, you know? Maybe it’s an infantry thing.” Most civilians can’t understand that compulsion, but among servicemen and –women, it creates an unspoken kinship. Tuavera keeps in contact with his army kin via Facebook – this morning, the social media site notified him that eight were celebrating birthdays – and attends reunions when he can. Tuavera has been dreaming of hosting the SEAVA reunion on Rarotonga for years. He always thought it would be a special way to acknowledge the Cook Islanders who served in Asia, and also to share his paradise with the Māoris who trace their bloodlines to Rarotonga along with their pākehā brothers in arms.
“It was unanimously agreed to,” Tuavera says. “To a lot of the Maori soldiers, it’s like coming home. Their roots are here. All the Māori wakas left from here thousands of years ago and they know it’s in their blood. They want to come and see where their ancestors come from.” So far upward of 150 members are coming, plus their families – a large enough contingent to require a new venue for the Anzac Day ceremony. Organisers are eyeing Taputapuatea, the royal palace in Avarua, but today, inside the RSA, their programme is just beginning to take shape. Craw and Wichman are drinking ginger beer, watching the projector screen with their notebooks and pens at the ready. On the wall are photos of the RSA, superimposed with computer-generated designs – guidelines for the artists who are completing pieces for the reunion. One image depicts a wooden archway, intricately carved, featuring two Tangaroa – the Polynesian god of the sea – wearing army helmets. Another shows a large stone shell, also intricately carved, perched against a coconut tree. The shell symbolises the participation of Cook Islands soldiers in World War II; after the war, a conch inscribed with Cook Islands motifs was found buried in a trench in France, where 40,000 soldiers had camped.
who said there’s a lot of people who want to come. It’s getting around. Numbers are creeping up and up and up, so we’ve got to make sure our little island can cater for all these people and give them a great experience.” But hospitality runs in a Cook Islander’s blood. No visitor invited to Rarotonga starves, or departs thinking locals aren’t the most generous people they’ve ever met. “Whatever we do,” Wichman says, “we’d like it to be a trip to remember.” The members arrive on April 23 and will be on Rarotonga for nearly a week. Organisers are arranging bags of goodies – magazines, pareu, wine, shirts – to hand over on arrival and putting together a programme for a welcoming reception at the RSA. The Anzac ceremony on Tuesday will follow military protocol but will also honour Cook Islands custom, incorporating island flair – the beat of the kaara, or bass drum; the pa’u mango, or small skin drum; and a powerful pe’e, or chant.
The organising committee is also planning a dinner for Wednesday night and tourist activities for Thursday and Friday. The details – making sure there’s a waiter for every 35 people, finding funding for transportation, smoothing out all the kinks – are many. But for this organising team, attending to them is a labour of love. They’re excited about showing off their paradise, catching up with their tribe, and laying it on to celebrate a day that’s personal and important for all servicemen and – women. “Anzac Day means a lot to us,” Craw says. “It honours those who have gone before us, it honours those who are serving currently, and it looks forward to the future. We want it to install a little bit of love in our young fellas for what the army does. When you join the army, you don’t join to kill people. I did hear that the other day from a very educated man and I was surprised at the ignorance. There is no greater service than to lay down your life for another. There is no greater service – and that’s what our people do.”
The number of attendees continues to rise. “I know we will be fine and I know it will be a great event, but sometimes I worry because everywhere I go, I hear people talking about it,” Wichman says. “Three weeks ago, I was in Dunedin and someone ran into me and said, hey, you’re Wichman from Raro, I heard about the SEAVA thing and I’m coming. The same week, my brother was in France with the army contingent – they marched with the French on Bastille Day – and he was hearing from those guys they were coming to Raro for Anzac Day. And then I was talking to someone else in Auckland
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LISTEN TO OUR PAST –
Remembering our WW1
I
Soldiers
n 2015 the Cook Islands celebrated 50 years of independence, a selfgoverning nation in free association of New Zealand. We are a country with close relationships with our Pacific neighbours and International partners but in order to understand that properly we need to take a look backwards, to look into our history and to appreciate our ancestors that lay the groundwork that formed part of our current place in the world.
A significant part of that foundation originates from 500 men who left their Island home to fight as part of the New Zealand contribution in World War 1. Their involvement was by far one of the most significant contributions to that war effort by any Pacific Island however sadly over time those stories and the experience of those men has not been told in the European history books and has been diluted, lost or submerged within our own families and national pride. With a generation now existing that know little of the war effort of their ancestors, projects have emerged that have the specific outcome to address that issue and provide a
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Story: Glenda Tuaine Photos: Michel Tuffery
resurgence of pride and respect for the stories of those brave Cook Islands men who were part of world history. In the remaining months of 2016 a memorial will take shape in Rarotonga at the RSA across the road from the International Airport with the intent purpose of honouring and officially recognising those 500 men and the incredible part they had in winning the war. Henry Wichman the President of the RSA in Rarotonga gave me some insight into the reason why this monument is so important, “It was in 2004, the 11th of November, we had an Armistice Day service in the RSA cemetery and it was said we should have a remembrance stone for those that served in the WW1 conflict.” However with no funding and limited resources action on the monument stalled. It wasn’t until 2015 with many New Zealand officials on the Island to celebrate our political relationship with New Zealand and our 50th celebrations of Independence that the project started to take shape again. Henry goes on to say “It also became important to rebuild the gateway that had been destroyed in the 2005 cyclones and for that to represent those who served during the Western European conflict and in the Middle East.” Cue internationally acclaimed New Zealand based visual artist Michel Tuffery who is of Cook Island, Tahitian and Samoan descent and through previous work on the subject has an ongoing relationship with the story of Pacific Islanders in the WW1 conflict. Alongside his uncle Cook Islands master carver Mike Tavioni and a group of skilled Cook Islands carvers they will deliver on a concept plan that shows respectful remembrance to those soldiers and the many buried in the RSA graveyard that served their country. At
These stories add inspiration to every line, stroke and chiselled detail of the carving that will become this monument. last an apt and fitting memorial that the RSA graveyard has long been calling out for will become a reality. It is also the combination of people on this project that will make the finished artwork an essential part of our landscape both visually and historically bringing those personal family stories of honour back into discussion today. The work will involve a stone sculpture that signifies a conch shell and will have the Lord’s Prayer engraved on it as well as a list of places that our troops served. This engraving has become an interesting element to the work. Based
on a find in the tunnels of Arras the version of the Lord’s Prayer is written in a dialect of Tahitian. Michel Tuffery was able to view this engraving when he was doing an Artists Residency in the South of France and attended an Armistice service in Arras. He sent the scripture to his Uncle Mike Tavioni to translate. I sat with Mike to understand his view point on the project and the importance of our WW1 veterans. “I think the project itself is late because the service men have all died now. But the archway and stone sculptures’ commemorate those people for the children of today. The art work will raise questions for the people who know nothing about our involvement in WW1” The gateway will be a carved wood entrance with two Tangaroa’s on either side wearing the iconic lemon squeezer hat. One holding a spade to represent our role as diggers or Pioneers who dug holes, roads, trenches and tunnels and were part of the New Zealand Tunnelling Company, first to arrive on the Western Front in 1916. The other Tangaroa will hold a huge bomb cartridge. Michel Tuffery explains the significance of the cartridge was that the Cook Islands soldiers were famous for moving artillery. Mike Tavioni extends on that providing a unique Cook Islands perspective.
monument. Supported by the New Zealand High Commission in the Cook Islands and the World War 1 100 fund this project grants a link for Cook Islanders to access international and national history and a fresh approach for New Zealanders to appreciate the long standing two-way relationship the Cook Islands has with them. New Zealand High Commissioner in Rarotonga, Nick Hurley points out. “It was a two way relationship, back 100 years ago, 500 Cook Islanders, 20% of
“Many of our soldiers were disappointed they were not allowed to fight, they were warriors! Some men even refused to do the work. They came to kill the enemy not carry cartridges but our people were the best steersmen for the boats going through the surf. They had skill and so that was their role. I heard stories they would even have competitions who could get as many cartridges through so they were more useful there than in the front line.” The many stories that are now being told to Michel, Henry and Mike as the project builds connect families who are literally coming out of the woodwork to tell the story of their grandfathers or great grand fathers. These stories add inspiration to every line, stroke and chiselled detail of the carving that will become this
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...the work is about giving acknowledgment to those 500 soldiers. the working male population decided they were going to help New Zealand and they did. This project is something to raise the profile of Cook Islanders, to recognise them officially in a long standing legacy way”.
For Michel Tuffery the work is about giving acknowledgment to those 500 soldiers. His long-term goal is to have monuments established in all the key locations that our troops were based, but for now Rarotonga is the focus. Michel is candid about the fact he has been overwhelmed with the stories he has discovered and that very quickly he knew that this information had to be shared. He has thrown all his energy at this project connecting with the descendants of these men developing concepts not only for the RSA cemetery but also collaborating with Mike Tavioni to create the successful exhibition “Sound Shells for the WW1 Kuki Airani Soldiers” held at the National Museum in Rarotonga earlier this year. This exhibition included works from students based in Rarotonga, Atiu, Mangaia and Aitutaki re-telling the stories of their ancestors in litho print. This exhibition included shell carvings representing the figure that will be carved in for the gate way, Tangaroa in the lemon squeezer hat with spade or with artillery. Michel is very clear regarding this tribute and the inspiration why “I am not honouring the dead, I am honouring what they achieved”. This project has so many layers to it. It will raise questions and begin discussions for other generations. Not only to do with our service and response to assist New Zealand and the British Empire but our partnership and close relationship to New Zealand Maori who were our brothers in arms and indeed the reason our country became involved as part of
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the Maori contribution to the war effort. This monument will become a well placed attraction for all and provide much needed awareness for the graves of those buried there and in the neighbouring Brych Yard Cemetery. It is timely and significant that a tribute will be created for future generations with the symbolism of putting a conch shell to your ear to listen to the past. This art work also serves as a mark of respect to the skill and artistic aptitude of our Cook Islands artists and carvers and to the many volunteers who have spent hundreds of hours working to make that area a proud one again. I personally look forward to the completion of this and what the continued development of the site in Rarotonga might be. The monument will be finished by the end of 2016.
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An awe-inspiring Humpback Whale breach display
Rarotonga’s
Mesmerising & Magical Humpback Whales
Story: Erika Bult | Photos: © Cook Islands Whale Research
W
hales have always been central to the legends of the Cook Islands, as it is believed that our ancient voyager ancestors came to these islands - guided by Whales. Today, Whales continue to be revered by the Cook Island people, and are protected throughout the world’s largest marine park, the Marae Moana (sacred place of beauty) established within Cook Island waters. This marine park currently consists of a massive 1 million square kilometers of Pacific Ocean, with plans currently underway to double its’ size.
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Below top: Two Humpbacks returning to the surface from the deep blue abyss below. Adult Humpbacks are capable of diving for up to 20 mins or more before returning to the surface for air. Below bottom: Two, clearly social, Humpbacks nose to nose and motionless below the surface.
T
he Cook Islands, and in particular Rarotonga, feature on the travel itinerary for the world’s last critically endangered Humpback Whale migratory population. There are regrettably less than 60,000 Humpback Whales left in the Southern Hemisphere. This number is comprised of nine migratory populations, and one non-migratory population in the Arabian Sea. The ‘Cook Islands’ Oceania migratory population comprises of a mere 3,000 – 3,500 individuals. These Whales herald all the way from Antarctica, and travel through the South Pacific Region – arriving in Cook Island waters from July through to October each year. One of the reasons that our migratory population is so small, is because of illegal Soviet Whaling that was carried out between 1947 and 1973. (26 years). In the Southern Hemisphere alone, almost 100,000 whales were secretly killed by the U.S.S.R., and not reported to the IWC (Yalokov et al, 1998; Clapham and Baker, 2002). Of this total, some 46,000 were Humpback Whales. During this same period, Soviet catches of Humpback Whales were carried out by 4 floating factory fleets. Although the total catch during this period was 48,702 Humpbacks, only 2,710 of these catches were actually reported to the IWC In the past, Whales (as a species) have satisfied mankind’s hunger for red meat, illuminated the streets of Europe and warmed the homes of countless families. Today we are now learning that they have always made far greater contributions than we could have possibly imagined - in particular they have contributed to the health of our oceans, and moreover they contribute to the very survival of all living things (see further). In modern times, it is becoming evident that Whales (of all types), also have
the ability to emancipate the spirit of mankind - by bringing us back to a place of extreme emotional happiness. This is abundantly clear by the reaction of people who have been fortunate enough to view these magical creatures in their natural environment. These experiences have been referred to as ‘Life Changing’, ‘Spiritual awakenings’, ‘Humbling’, ‘Emotionally charged’ (in a positive way), ‘Joyful’, ‘Calming’, ‘Inspirational’ and always …. ‘Unforgettable’. The level of Tourism to Rarotonga has increased exponentially over the last 5 years, and so too has there been an awakening as to not only the value of our Whales as a massive draw-card for tourists; but also, the realization that both humans and Whales are at risk during the Whale Season. This is due to the fact that best practice protocols are currently not backed up by legislation. Although a set of rules and regulations was introduced by the world- famous cetacean scientist, Nan Hauser, who has lived on Rarotonga for the last 19 years and studied our visiting Humpback Whales: attempts to formalise legislation to enforce compliance, and moreover to establish best practice protocols, has made extremely slow progress. Nan Hauser is also the founder and CEO of the Cook Islands Whale Research Centre.
...we are now learning that they have always made far greater contributions than we could have possibly imagined - in particular they have contributed to the health of our oceans, and moreover they contribute to the very survival of all living things...
“Both Whales and Humans continue to be unnecessarily at
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Mother and calf with male escort.
risk” says Nan, “…and without these best practice protocols being adopted by all vessels operating within close proximity to the Whales, these beautiful and majestic creatures continue to be at risk (and have already sustained) injuries from fasttravelling boats coming in too close: in particular, to the mothers and their newly born calves. Tourists too will also continue to be at risk, with the potential of a tragic accident occurring - being an unfortunate reality” she adds.
The best practice protocols that Nan is referring to in particular, are as follows: •N o vessel ( other than a scientific research vessel) to come within 300m of a mother and calf. •D rones (flying camera devices) may not fly lower than 300m above, or closer horizontally, to a mother and calf. •N o Vessel (other than a scientific research vessel) to come within 100m of ‘other’ whales.
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• Drones may not fly lower than 100m above, or closer horizontally, to other Whale individuals. • The speed of all vessels within 10 kms of Rarotonga’s shores / reef, to be limited during the Whale Season. (such speed as yet to be agreed by to by the commercial operators as well as the Whale Research Centre) As the Humpback Whales are circa 1000 times larger than the average adult human being, keeping distances like this, and providing these Whales with a humane and ethical ‘comfort zone’ during their breeding season - should not inhibit our Tourist’s ability to still have excellent viewing opportunities’ says Nan. To be able to support the seemingly outrageous claims that Whales contribute to the health of our oceans, as well as to the very survival of all living things: to follow is some interesting information to assist in our understanding these magnificent creatures. Such information has been derived from snippets of a recent
interview with Nan Hauser, shortly after the spectacular ‘Whale of an Event 2016’ fundraiser, initiated and sponsored by the Crown Beach Resort on behalf of the Cook Islands Whale Research Center, in October, 2016.
Q. How is it possible that Whales can affect the health of the Oceans? A. One of the most exciting scientific findings of the past half century, has been the discovery of widespread trophic cascades. A trophic cascade is an ecological process which starts at the top of the food chain, and tumbles all the way down to the bottom. We all know that Whales eat fish and krill, and some people – certain politicians in Japan for an example – have argued that killing Whales would be good for human beings, as it would boost the food available for us to eat. However, as Whales declined, so did the numbers of fish and krill. It seems counter-intuitive:
Mother and calf at the surface.
When Whales were at their historic populations, before their numbers were reduced, it seems that Whales might have been responsible for removing tens of millions of tons of carbon from the atmosphere every year. Whales change climate. The return of the great Whales, if they were to be allowed to recover, could be seen as a benign form of geo-engineering. It could undo some of the damage we have done, both to the living systems of the sea, and to the atmosphere.
Q. Do Whales give birth to twins? If so, how prevalent is this? A. Yes, a Humpback Whale mother can have twin calves, but it is a very rare event, occurring about 0.39 percent of all pregnancies. surely their numbers would rise as their major predators disappeared? But now it turns out that Whales not only eat these creatures, but they also keep them alive. In fact, they help sustain the entire living system of the oceans. Whales feed at depth, in waters that are often pitch dark. Then they return to the surface: to the photic zone, where there’s enough light for photosynthesis to take place. There, they release what biologists call fecal plumes: vast outpourings of poo: ‘poonamis…’. These plumes are rich in iron and nitrogen, nutrients which are often very scarce in the surface waters. All these nutrients fertilize the plant plankton that lives in the only place where plants can survive…. the photic zone. Fertilizing the surface waters is not the only thing that Whales do. By plunging up and down through the water column, they also keep kicking plankton back up into the photic zone, giving it more time to reproduce, before it sinks into the abyss…. Even today, though Whale populations
have been greatly reduced, the vertical mixing of water caused by movements of these mammals up and down through the column of the ocean is, astonishingly, roughly the same as the amount of mixing caused by the world’s wind, waves and tides. More plant plankton, means more animal plankton, on which larger creatures then feed. In other words, more Whales means more fish and krill. But the story doesn’t end here, because plant plankton not only feeds the animals of the sea; it also absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere…. When, eventually, it sinks to the ocean floor, it takes this carbon out of circulation, down to a place where it remains for many thousands of years. The more Whales there are, the more plankton there is. The more plankton there is, the more carbon is drawn out of the air.
Q. Do you have an estimate of what percentage of Whale calves make it back to Antarctic? As this may assist us all in being able to estimate just how
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Top: Nan Hauser with her daughter Ali, who is also an accomplished research assistant. Bottom: The 2016 Whale Research Team – beauty as well as brains.
cannot be completely analogous to humans, because Whales do not have to exhale in order to produce sound. It is likely that they recycle air around the body for this purpose. Cranial sinuses may also be used to create the sounds.
Q. We know that male Whales have the ability to ‘sing’. Do female Whales make sounds? If not – are we to presume that they do not communicate with other individuals of their species through soundbut perhaps via telepathy / other dimensions? long it will take for the Cook Islands Oceania migratory population to recover their numbers. A. Regrettably, there is currently not a chance in the world anyone knows this.
Q. How are Whales able to produce sounds / song without expelling air like humans do? A. They reverberate air. Baleen Whales do not have a phonic lip structure. Instead they have a larynx that plays a role in sound production, but it lacks vocal cords. We’re not sure exactly how they produce these sounds. The process, however,
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A. Actually female Whales do vocalise to other members of their species. They don’t ‘sing’ actual songs like the males do, but they can be quite vocal with other Whales, and especially their calves. Q. All humans can appreciate their environment on a 3-dimensional level, and it is believed that gifted humans can appreciate their surroundings via up to 5 dimensions. How many dimensions do we currently believe Whales have command of?
A. All we know is that they are far beyond our ability to use the dimensions that we are limited to, however, we still have no idea how many dimensions they have command over. Q. Based on our knowledge of a Whales muscle structure, and knowing that in the average lifetime of a Southern Hemisphere Humpback Whale they are capable of travelling to the moon and back, three times!!: would it be reasonable to deduce that their physical muscle mass is insufficient to be able to swim the distances they do - without employing energy / force from alternative power sources in the ocean? i.e. currents, gravity or perhaps the pull of the moon. A. We don’t know this for sure, but it seems that the things that you mentioned must be an energy source.
Q. What is the average lifespan of Humpback Whales? A. Circa 80 years. Q. Why do we think Whales Breach? Do they do this all the time, or only during mating season? A. All the time. They breach for many reasons! Competition, play, removing parasites, socializing, courting or warning others in their group of danger.
This typical tail-slapping display is intended to demonstrate strength, exuberation or to warn other Whales of danger.
Q. We know this is rather a naughty question, but us locals on the Island are acutely aware of the fact that these Whales come here to breed and give birth. Our fishermen also often see evidence of copious quantities of Whale sperm floating on top of the water after sexual activity….so our menfolk are curious as to the average size / weight of a Humpback’s testes…?
with Whales? and do their young only see in black and white - like human babies do during the first few months?
Q. How many stomachs do Whales have? And if only 1 – do they derive nutrition from their food like humans do?
A. They do have similar cone and rod cells in their eyes like humans do, and what I can say for sure is that dolphins most certainly see in colour….as colour is just a vibration. Dolphins show a preference to bright colours. To date there seems no evidence to support that this is also the case with Whales.
A. From the book ‘Whales ‘by E.J. Slijper;
A. (Giggling….) Not too sure about Humpback Whales, but with Right Whales they weigh 1 ton, and with Blue Whales we are talking about 5 tons….
Q. How many lungs do Whales have? As they can stay underwater for such long periods. Do they process oxygen like humans do?
Q. Do whales see in colour? Humans have evolved over time to be able to see colour…is this the case
A. To assist with long dives, whales have developed special lungs that help them inhale additional oxygen, and transfer it to enlarged blood vessels, where it can be used by the body.
The migratory Humpback Whales that grace the tropical-blue South Pacific Ocean that embraces the Cook Islands, are far too valuable to our Tourism Industry not to be protected by legislation. The potential loss of these Whales due to ignorance and / or commercial greed, would surely be a travesty for us all.
it is said that the stomach of a Cetacean (whales and dolphins) consists of 3 main compartments. Whales have a similar stomach make up to that of cattle, deer or sheep. Some Beaked Whales that I have necropsied (dissected) have had between 11 and 13 stomachs.
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WATER SAFETY IN RAROTONGA
Avarua
RAROTONGA HAS A BEAUTIFUL LAGOON with many safe swimming, snorkelling and kayaking areas. However, THERE ARE AREAS THAT ARE UNSAFE in certain conditions and these should be avoided for your safety.
DANGER!
ACHTUNG! DANGEREUX! PELIGRO! PERICOLO!
Arorangi
LOCATIONS
Avana
Vaimaanga Avaavaroa
EMERGENCY CALL 999 CONDITIONS IN THE PASSAGES CAN CHANGE QUICKLY and a passage that appears safe can become dangerous with just a small change of the tide.
DO NOT SWIM, SNORKEL OR KAYAK IN OR NEAR PASSAGES 60 • ESCAPE
Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes R A R O T O N G A ,
C O O K
I S L A N D S
More than just a museum, it’s interactive and has live creatures and big screen documentaries. Hundreds of ‘hands on’ exhibits include whales, whaling history, sharks, turtles, diving history, fishing, shells, corals and lots more. There’s something for everyone plus a café, souvenir shop and WiFi hotspot. Situated on the back road behind town, just 900 metres from Avatiu Harbour and opposite Mike Tavioni’s carving.
Ph: (682) 21 666 or 55 901 info@cookislandswildlifecentre.com www.cookislandswildlifecentre.com mention ‘Escape’ and get a $2 entry discount
Pa’s
Cross Island Hike
The South Pacific’s most acclaimed guide! Come and experience the earth’s garden. Join our cross-island trek (fitness is required) or try the gentle herbal walk. Learn about local medicine plants and native flora & fauna. Lunch and transport provided. Bring a drink of your choice. Book now and walk in safety with one of our professional experienced guides.
Tours operate Mon – Sat P. 21079 (bookings essential)
PADI 5 STAR DIVE CENTRE SAFETY COMES FIRST • FREE TRY SCUBA
The
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d see it live!
Take a dive an
Quality service, dives, training and equipment www.thedivecentre-rarotonga.com info@thedivecentre-rarotonga.com Ph +682 20 238 Mob+682 55 238
At the beautiful Aroa Marine Reserve look for:
A tour you wont forget! #1 ranked tour in Raro! Fresh energetic crew treating you to a day to remember!
Book Now!! Phone 27769 or 55769
www.kokalagooncruises.com ESCAPE • 61
THE COCONUT CURE Story: Rachel Reeves
T
he world is catching up to a truth the Cook Islands have always known: coconut oil works wonders. For decades, consumers avoided buying coconut products because food scientists said they were unhealthy; nutritionists know now the oil contains good fat. Unlike commonly used vegetable oils, coconut oil doesn’t become rancid when cooked and it doesn’t contribute to diet-related diseases. Instead it improves digestion, helps with weight loss by reducing hunger, kills harmful pathogens, and reduces the risk of heart disease. Everywhere, nutrition scientists and health journalists are waking up to the benefits of consuming and using coconut oil, calling it a “superfood” and praising it as a cure for all illness. Hollywood actresses have testified that it whitens teeth. Books have been written about the “coconut oil miracle.” In industrialised countries far away from the tropics, demand for coconut oil has skyrocketed. This isn’t the first time science has confirmed the truth of time honoured Polynesian knowledge. “Coconut is one of the best powers we’ve ever known,” says JeanMarie Williams, a traditional healer from the atoll of Manihiki. For centuries, locals have known the coconut tree as the “tree of life” because every part of it is useful – husk fibre for mats, ropes, caulking; leaves for brooms, baskets, bowls, roofing; trunk for furniture, timber, canoes; shells for instruments, bowls, fuel; water for refreshment; meat for milk, food, and oil. In Polynesia, people have always used coconut oil for massaging, moisturising, smoothing hair, and soothing sores and burns. Ta’unga, or keepers of traditional knowledge, have used it to treat all varieties of affliction.
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For decades the Cook Islands exported copra to meet international demand for coconut oil, which was used for fuel and also as a material for industrial products like soap. As early as the 1860s, an Englishman named William Marsters was planting trees in the Cook Islands for commercial gain. A century later, copra exports were earning as much as $300,000 annually, but the industry dried up in 1987 when the global price of copra plummeted. Still locals made oil, using one of several methods. Today, the most common is cooking; the process involves gathering brown coconuts, husking them on a ko, cracking the inner nut, grating the meat, squeezing the grated material with cheesecloth, cooking the cream for an hour on the stove (a modern concession in an otherwise traditional process), and squeezing out the oil. Another method is fermenting – mixing coconut flesh with the back of a red hermit crab and leaving it in the sun for two weeks. This process produces oil that’s particularly effective in healing scars. There is another, seldom used method – dipping a red-hot stone in coconut milk to draw out the oil. Each method is tedious and timeconsuming – a litre of oil requires about 15 coconuts, and gathering, husking, grating, and cooking them requires time and effort – so oil is made in small amounts and primarily for personal use. Some people sell their oils at the markets or to gift shops. Some sell it at roadside stalls. Entrepreneurial teenagers are even selling it on Facebook. A group from Nukutere College that calls itself Freshness Cook Islands debuted its product at a trade day featuring college students from four islands.
“We learned from our parents,” says 15-year-old Tanisha, the group’s spokesperson. “They were taught, and they taught us.” Freshness Cook Islands decided to make three types: oil with miri, a fragrant herb; oil with pi, an herb with medicinal properties; and pure oil. They made 76 bottles in a week, and printed labels with a catch phrase: True Beauty is Found in Local Products. Half the Freshness group traces its roots to Mauke, an island known for its coconut oil, coined Mauke Miracle Oil, which for years has been sold in small quantities at shops on Rarotonga. When the outer island’s population dwindled rapidly in the early 2000s, the supply of Miracle Oil for export grew sporadic. A reduced population meant a reduced capacity to undertake daily chores like fishing and gathering and cooking, and less time to produce oil for commercial purposes. But in 2015, a London-based charity called the Cook Foundation bought the island two electric graters in an effort to revitalise Miracle Oil production. “Keeps production going on our little island,” Mauke’s Member of Parliament, Tai Tura, said in gratitude for the gift. “This is so exciting.” You can find coconut oil at CITC, Island Craft, and the Punanga Nui market.
AVAILABLE AT
PHARMACY
LOVING OUR LITTLE PARADISE Story: Shannon Saunders
T
he Cook Islands comprise of 15 tiny islands in the Pacific and due to their size and the number of visitors making their way here each year the importance of protecting its fragile eco-system is so important. So when travelling to the Cook Islands it is important to remember that the products you use will have a direct impact on our environment. Please consider using the following products: Eco-friendly skincare products. As you are packing your bags take a look at the ingredients that are in your skincare products. Oxybenzone is an ingredient found in some sunscreens that acts as a UV filter. Even tiny amounts of this can damage our lagoon. One drop in the area of an Olympic swimming pool can have toxic effects on developing coral causing bleaching and eventual death of the reef. Leave your micro-bead face and body scrubs at home! Plastic micro-beads can end up in the ocean and are ingested by marine life. Check out local brands Te Tika and Rito that use jojoba oil a natural exfoliate instead. If you have gone out and purchased snorkel gear or other items to bring with you on holiday, please make sure you take them out of the packaging before you put them in your suitcase. This will save space
Inspired by traditional Cook Islands medicine
and it will help reduce the waste going into our landfill. The Muri night markets offer an amazing range of affordable and delicious meals Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday nights. Look out for venders that serve their meals on biodegradable plates or support Te Uki Ou Primary School’s “rent a plate” scheme where your donation helps support environmental programs at this local primary school and limits the waste going into our landfill. Say no to plastic bags “kare ki te puau plastic”. Even biodegradable plastic has an impact on our environment. Reusable plastic bags and cardboard boxes are available at many stores or better still bring your own bag with you. Fancy-free drinks. You are on holiday so it is only right to enjoy one or two of Cook Islands amazing cocktails. But did you know that plastic straws take 700 years to break down! Ask your bartender to reuse your straw for your next drink or alternatively go straw-free. Donate to local environmental projects. Ask your accommodator about Mana Tiaki programme and how you can help “Protect a Little Paradise”. For more information check out Te Ipukarea Society’s website http://tiscookislands.org/manatiaki.php
AVARUA SHOPPING CENTRE P. (682) 29292
ESCAPE • 63
great places to stay
r
Tamanu Beach
elax by the pool with a tropical cocktail, soak up the sun, rejuvenate your soul, and luxuriate in the warmth of a romantic evening under the stars, with exotic foods and fine wine. Whatever your Cook Islands holiday dream consists of, you can be sure there is a style of accommodation to suit your taste and attentive staff to make all those dreams come true. From deluxe beach resorts to simple budget facilities, you can choose your own standard or quality and plan according to your budget. Here on these pages, we bring you some of the nicest places to stay on Rarotonga.
happy holidays!
Look for this symbol‌ The Cook Islands Tourism Accreditation Scheme is designed to set minimum standards. It will assist you in your choice of where to stay, what to see and what to do. Wherever you see this logo you can be sure that the accommodation establishment, restaurant, retailer, tour or activity operator has met minimum requirements to assure you of good service, good facilities, safe practices and of course friendly Cook Islands hospitality. We highly recommend that visitors use their services. For a full list of all accredited businesses please refer to our website:
www.tourismindustry.co.ck
YOUR PRIVATE PIECE OF PARADISE! Idyllically set on the shores of a sheltered lagoon this intimate beachfront resort enjoys stunning sunsets.
Beachfront and garden bungalows | Onsite restaurant and bar Personal wedding co-ordinator | Rarotonga’s quiet southern coast PO Box 23, Rarotonga, Cook Islands email: beach@palmgrove.co.ck phone: +682 20002 www.palmgrove.net
Kia orana from all of us at Club Raro Resort The newly renovated Club Raro Resort offers something for everyone from relaxing by the pool, happy hours at our new bar “ RUMBA” and great value accommodation. We love what we do and what our resort offers and know that we can provide a resort experience for you that simply does not cost the earth! Tel: (682) 22 415 • Fax: (682) 24 415 • Email: holiday@clubraro.co.ck
35 spacious self-catering studios and suites are situated either on the beachfront overlooking the lagoon or beside either of the two swimming pools amid lush tropical gardens. The resort features an open-air restaurant open for breakfast, lunch and dinner 7 days a week.
Phone: (682) 28028 Email: welcome@thesunsetresort.com www.thesunsetresort.com
The Little Polynesian A rare gem that exceeds all expectations. Share our Little Paradise with us.
ADVERTORIAL
Polynesian Paradise When the ‘Little Poly’ was completed and launched in 2006 it was a byword in tasteful luxury. A boutique resort on a beautiful beach that set the benchmark for small resorts in the Cook Islands and elsewhere in the Pacific. That shouldn’t have been surprising because driving its development was the late Te Tika Dorice Reid, a Cook Islands woman who was the epitomie of fine taste and correctness; who brought her chiefly traditonal leadership and cultural revival passion to bear on everything she did, including her business interests. It may be a decade on but the Little Polynesian Resort’s original fine bones and iconic seaside location have stood the test of time, and still cause you to catch your breath when you step out of your transport and enter the foyer, and your eyes can’t help but look through to the infinity pool which seems to merge with the lagoon as it stretches out to the reef a couple of hundred metres out.
Rarotonga’s best beach at the Little Polynesian.
Once you’ve checked into your fastidiously designed and appointed accomodation, the chances are that, like so many other visitors over the last ten years, you’ll be happy to relax on your verandah; taking a dip in the ocean or the pool, having your picture taken in the picturebook tropical surroundings by the friendly staff and sending it off to your less fortunate friends or family saying, ‘wish you were here.’ There are only 14 villas at the resort and each is positioned for maximum privacy. The beach is arguably the best on the island and even on the hottest day, the southeasterly trade wind provides a refreshing breeze. All that fresh air is likely to give you a thirst and an appetite and the resort management knows that. Refreshments and food are available all day long, and the emphasis is on ‘polynesian fresh’; from the plantation and sea to the table with the least delay. Don’t expect tinned or processed food at ‘Little Poly’, but do expect to eat whatever’s in season, and what the chef has been able to purchase from the local fishermen. That has it’s trials, but if you’re fond of fresh fruits like pawpaw, pineapple, mango, passion, star fruit, banana and coconut; and from the sea, yellow fin tuna, mahimahi, broadbill – as sashimi or ika mata, or in some other delicacy - you’re in for a treat.
LITTLE POLYNESIAN ph: 24280 email: sales@littlepolynesian.com www.littlepolynesian.com 66 • ESCAPE
Ten years on there’s a new management team led by General Manager Louis Enoka. The original high values remain, with Louis and his team simply freshening up the complex, that was built right to begin with and has exuded luxury and charm in an understated way since it opened. Their efforts will ensure that everything will be ready and ‘just right’ when you arrive. For booking requests and general information please contact: sales@littlepolynesian.com or manager@littlepolynesian.com
Reconnect with life at our Romantic Island Hideaway. Enjoy child-free tranquillity in a perfect beachside setting. P: (682) 28465 E: sunhaven@beachbungalows.co.ck www.mysunhaven.com
18 self-catering air conditioned villas set amongst tropical gardens and across the road from its own stunning beach and reserve. Ideal for couples and families.
P. +682 22020
reservations@lagoonbreezevillas.com lagoonbreezevillas.com
Situated in the heart of popular Muri Beach, our 22 tastefully furnished spacious units & villas are air-conditioned & self-catering. Complimentary kayaks, SUP’s, snorkelling gear, transfers. Friendly staff ensure you of a memorable ‘Rarotongan’ experience.
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The most fun event on the
outrigger planet
Story: Rachel Reeves Photos: Matariki Wilson
For a week each summer, Rarotonga comes alive to celebrate oe vaka – outrigger canoeing, a Polynesian pastime rugby legend Michael Jones calls “one of the most exciting and invigorating sports in the world.”
S
ince 2004, hundreds of paddlers from all over the globe – Asia, the Pacific, North America, Europe – have been flocking annually to Rarotonga for seven days of racing and merrymaking. Rambo, an Australian photographer who attends most years, calls Vaka Eiva “the most fun event on the outrigger planet.” The races are grueling and the competition fierce, but medals aren’t the only reason paddlers return each year.
the founders of Vaka Eiva. “A fun event, a holiday, a festival with paddling in it. There’s competition but we can’t start comparing ourselves with [Tahiti’s] Hawaiki Nui or [Hawai’i’s] Moloka’i – those are physically more challenging and for elite paddlers. There are all these other paddlers out there who want to be competitive but also want to enjoy and have a holiday. Those are the paddlers we get.”
“It’s a festival,” says Tangata Fletcher Melvin, former president of the Cook Islands Canoeing Association and one of
They return for a race field so beautiful it makes your heart swell – the electric-blue sea, breaching whales, and a backdrop
68 • ESCAPE
of verdant peaks that have captivated millions of travelers. They return for the holiday – the white-sand beaches, tropical sunshine, and hired scooters. They return for the cultural immersion – the Cook Islands drumbeats, reportedly the best in the world, that welcome them at the finish line; sacred canoe-blessing ceremonies; the inbuilt hospitality of the Polynesian people. They return for the fellowship – the post-race hugs and kisses, the conversations and cocktails with other athletes who share their passion. This is one of the hallmarks of a niche sport like paddling; paddlers know
paddlers in other parts of the world. They compete in the same international competitions. If you ask Serena Hunter, a local champion who’s competed all over the world, Vaka Eiva isn’t like other competitions. “I think Vaka Eiva is special because it’s not just a race,” she says. “It’s a week of paddling, cultural activities, festivities, making friendships. There’s nothing like it on the international calendar. You don’t just race and that’s it, which happens in some events I’ve been to. You race throughout the week and there’s a big social component too, which is great as you get to meet people and make new paddling friends.”
“I think Vaka Eiva is special because it’s not just a race,” she says. “It’s a week of paddling, cultural activities, festivities, making friendships. There’s nothing like it on the international calendar. “Vaka Eiva just really embraces the fellowship of paddling,” adds Annie Fisher, a veteran paddler who’s competed every year and in many competitions overseas. “It’s just nice to be able to share our paradise and to celebrate with people from all over that come here, especially those that come from afar, the spirit of paddling.” Each summer, the energy of Vaka Eiva ripples through Rarotonga. The island
kicks into gear – businesses advertise specials, police restructure their patrol plans to accommodate large numbers of visitors, famous musicians fly in for an end-of-week party. (In 2016, Tiki Taane performed at the wrap-up. New Zealand reggae bands Kora and Ardijah performed in previous years.) The entire community embraces oe vaka and the paddlers who arrive from overseas. Locals turn out to watch the big races, driving to one lookout point and scrambling back into the car to reach the next before the canoes do. Local volunteers help paddlers to find canoes and support boats and do everything they can to ensure every competitor has a great experience. Non-paddlers attend social gatherings and the end-of-festival concerts. Pastor Ngarima George, who leads Vaka Eiva’s opening ceremony each year, called it “one of the most special and beloved events of the Cook Islands people.” Perhaps the community gets involved because for Polynesians, canoeing has cultural and historic connotations. The word vaka means canoe; eiva is a fusion of ei – the flower garland that symbolises Cook Islands hospitality and festivity – and va – the space between then and now. Despite that gap in time, Polynesians are still paddling outrigger canoes, the seafaring vessels that were once the only means of pan-Pacific travel. Former All Black Michael Jones, who works with platinum naming sponsor Matson Shipping, has said paddling “connects us to our Pacific heritage more than any other popular sport.”
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Spa ESCAPE • 69
Event organisers have always made sure to include cultural components – blessing and prayer ceremonies, a traditional turou (welcome), local feasts and music. Concurrently there are paddle art exhibitions and local trade markets featuring local food and crafts. Vaka Marumaru Atua, the traditional doublehulled canoe that has travelled thousands of kilometres throughout the Pacific without instruments, is moored near the start line each year.
“We are one of the only events where people come and we give them the full welcome and kaikai and we have prizegivings and meals and concerts so it’s very involving,” says Vaka Eiva coordinator Chrissy Thomas. “A lot of other places you go, you have the prizegiving and then it’s like, see you later. There’s no culture. At Vaka Eiva you’re seeing a different culture – and it’s a wonderful culture – and more than that, you’re having a good time. When people have paddled hard they want to celebrate and have a good time, and we provide that good time.” Vaka Eiva caters to all ages, from juniors (over 10) to golden masters (70+), and all levels. There are races of varying intensity, from fun sprints in the sheltered Muri lagoon to a 36 km marathon around Rarotonga that Serena Hunter calls the “highlight of the week.” “Racing around our beautiful island,” she says, “it really blows people away.” The race involves high-speed changeovers, during which paddlers tread water until the canoe reaches them, then hoist themselves onboard as the outgoing crew jumps over the other side. Support boats and spectator boats travel with the race, which occurs on the last day of the festival. The week after Vaka Eiva, those who are financially able have the opportunity to travel to Aitutaki, an island 264 kilometres from Rarotonga, for the Motu 2 Motu race. If Rarotonga is Hawai’i 50 years
70 • ESCAPE
“Racing around our beautiful island,” she says, “it really blows people away.” ago, Aitutaki is Rarotonga 50 years ago – a concept many tourists find hard to fathom. Many major media outlets have called its lagoon the most beautiful in the world. Vaka Eiva was created by paddlers for paddlers. Twelve years ago, the Cook Islands Canoeing Association decided to host an international competition so local athletes who couldn’t afford to compete overseas could up their game. “We were spending a lot of money to compete so we wanted to bring top competition here,” Melvin says. “It gave us a massive boost in competition. We were coming in seventh or eighth at the Pacific Games and now we’re consistently medaling.” The spin-off effects were many. On the heels of the event’s success, Melvin and his wife created Te Aito, a mid-year international race for individual paddlers, and Vaka Iti, a championship for juniors. Now young paddlers have opportunities to improve. Vaka Eiva has grown into the country’s largest sporting event; revenue it
generates pays for canoes and storage and support boats. The Cook Islands Tourism Corporation supports the event because it energises the Cook Islands’ economy in a “low season.”
to advertise the event. Now, as more competitions appear on the international calendar and as regular paddlers choose to go elsewhere, they’re looking to expand their marketing strategy.
Vaka Eiva supports a charity each year, and pairs visiting teams with schools so visitors can bring gifts and stationery for students, and become part of the community. Festival organisers have always been environmentally conscious. “We know that all of you paddlers on the whole are a ‘green’ bunch who are all in touch with nature and your surroundings, and are mindful of your role in leaving a race venue as [you] found it,” says the Vaka Eiva website.
Still paddlers will continue to return. They’ve felt the magic of Rarotonga, of racing against and socialising with friends they’ve made over the years. They know that for a paddler, there’s nothing like Vaka Eiva.
The high point of your trip 30 minute scenic flight
Our high wing Cessna operates on
demand with a minimum of two passengers. Daily flights (after mid-day on Sunday) from Rarotonga Airport, $129 per person.
LM/SD 2023019a
The event has received awards from the Air New Zealand Cook Islands Tourism Awards and local environmental non-profit Te Ipukarea Society for its sustainable ethos. Organisers rely mostly on word of mouth
Teina Taulu, who has paddled in races as far away as New York, says the comment she hears most often from visitors is that they’re taken with the Cook Islands spirit – the locals’ love for life and others. “Paddlers love it,” she says. “They don’t see the stresses of the western world but see our love and respect for one another, our kindness and helpfulness – this radiates from our people, and that attracts paddlers from all over the world.”
PHONE 22888 TO BOOK
LEADERS IN COOK ISLANDS ARTS & CRAFTS SINCE 1943
• • • • •
Pacific Cook Islands Arts & Crafts Elegant local designer jewellery collections Flowers for all occasions Personalised engraving and gift selection and much more...
Opening Hours: 8:30-4:30 Weekdays 8:30-1:00 Saturday Located Downtown Avarua next door to BSP Bank Or at the Rarotonga International Airport
100% COOK ISLANDS MADE
ESCAPE • 71
SMALL COOK ISLANDS BUSINESSES Flavaz Real Fruit Ice Cream What could be better than enjoying an ice cream on a lush tropical island in the South Pacific? How about if that ice cream was perfectly blended with locally grown fruit? This idea and accompanying lifestyle change was what Cook Islander Wilma Green and her husband Carl Green thought about while living and working in New Zealand. Aside from the lifestyle, the couple moved to Rarotonga so they could be closer to family—and to get their three children closer to their Cook Islands cultural heritage. Specialising in the production of blended fruit ice creams, the couple opened Flavaz Real Fruit Ice Cream in July 2015. Local island flavours like coconut, mango, lime,
Love Café After four years at university in New Zealand, Cook Islander Nathan Ivaiti moved home to the Cook Islands to pursue a passion—baking and cooking. His first café was opened on Aitutaki and named after one of the motu, Maina. While proud of his son, Nathan’s father would call from Rarotonga weekly, urging his son to change the name of the business.
72 • ESCAPE
Stories: Kirby Morejohn
soursop, and passion fruit are among some of the menu options. The refreshing, blended treats are served in a cone or cup. ‘Berry Smash’ is said to be the most popular, that is, unless it’s mango season when Flavaz offers the Tropical Delight; a mango and passion fruit treat topped with freshly grated coconut flakes (optional). Proudly, Wilma and Carl use fruits grown on family land or sourced from local growers. They also offer coconut water, or nu, shakes and dairy-free fruit smoothies
presence at sporting and cultural events and other island celebrations. For those who would like a little nourishment, Wilma and Carl recently opened Flavaz Too at the Muri Night Markets on Tuesday and Thursday evenings. With their new food trailer serving hāngi chicken, spuds and mixed veggies—and an ice cream truck serving fresh fruit blended treats, there’s something for everyone.
that are blended with an assortment of exotic fruits. Flavaz can be found at the Muri Night Markets on Wednesday and Sunday evenings, and also at the Punanga Nui markets on Saturday mornings. In addition to the markets, they cater weddings and birthdays while also maintaining a
Following the passing of his father, Nathan moved from Aitutaki to Rarotonga, where he opened his second café on family land in Matavera. The bright red coffee shack stands prominently on the main road, inviting customers to call in. The entire café, highlighted by yellow railings and matching picnic tables, was hand built by Nathan. And in honor of his father, Nathan called it “Love Café”—the very name his father had been hounding him about for years. The reason? Because everything was made with love—and the name should be reflective.
In addition to baked goods and coffees, if you’re really hungry, the made-to-order steak sandwiches are an excellent choice. Nathan strives to use as many local ingredients as possible—the sandwich ingredients are no different. For people on the go, the café sells ready-made sandwiches (prepared every morning) and accepts text orders for coffees.
The Love Café in Matavera proudly uses local ingredients such as freshly baked bread and local fruits. Baked goods on offer include coconut scones, vanilla cupcakes, banana cakes and muffins. The shack also serves an assortment of coffees to accompany Nathan’s homemade pastries. All coffees are made from locally roasted beans, with love, of course.
Stop by and enjoy a fresh coconut scone and cappuccino in the shade of Love Café’s kuru (breadfruit) and kikau (coconut) trees – or – text your coffee order to 75139.
The Love Café is open from 7am to 2:30pm, Monday to Saturday. It is located on the main road on the east side of Rarotonga, in Matavera. You can’t miss it.
Paradise Pitstop Cook Islander Pat Ngaau and his wife Christina moved their family home to Rarotonga because they wanted a lifestyle change. They also had a goal of owning their own restaurant and in September 2015, they turned that goal into reality. The Ngaau’s opened Paradise Pitstop, a mobile food truck located opposite Kent Hall in Titikaveka. The “Pit Stop”, as it is locally known, has an extensive menu with options for every palate. Menu options include beef, chicken, steak and fish burgers, curries, noodle dishes, and a homemade dessert menu you’ll have to see to believe. The unique flavour combinations reflect the many years Pat and Christina spent in the food industry back in New Zealand. Despite the plethora
Top Dogz Alex Olah loves hot dogs. His partner Engara Gosselin jokes that Alex would eat hot dogs every day—if he was allowed. It seems only natural that Alex would want
of choices, Pitstop’s most popular dish is the staple, fish and chips. Their menu items have been so popular that the Ngaau’s decided to take the best of them to the Muri Night Markets on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday evenings. On these nights, the couple said you should give the seared fish in coconut cream and red pepper sauce a try—it’s fresh and delicious. The fish is locally caught and picked up daily. The dish is popular and paired with a candied
the Titikaveka community night patrol and hand out several vouchers as prizes for local contests. To give their delectable dishes a try, visit them at the Muri Night Markets or at their Titikaveka location, where they are open from 11:30am to 8pm, Monday to Saturday. They also make custom cakes, cater, and take phone orders on 78419 or 74487.
apple pecan and blue cheese salad. I know what I’m going to eat this week! Evidenced by their decision to move home to Raro, Pat and Christina love their community and express this love by giving back. They support the “Player of the Match” by giving free meals to the winner. They also organize monthly meetings for
to share his love for hot dogs with the rest of the island. He and Engara opened Top Dogz in early 2014; inspired by the classic American “dog” sold at sporting events throughout the U.S.A. Although both Alex and Engara were born and raised on Rarotonga, they met while studying business management at the University of South Pacific in Fiji. Alex seemed quite primed for business, spending his childhood helping his Dad with Timberland, their family-owned building supply company that Alex still manages in Arorangi. Engara, better known for her successes as a singer and former Mis Cook Islands also added her business skills to the enterprise. Not surprisingly, the colourful Top Dogz stand was crafted at Timberland. A mobile unit, the hot dog stand services functions island-wide, including sporting events and national celebrations. When Top Dogz isn’t out on an adventure, it is on the median of the main road; adjacent to the Punanga
Nui markets, where Alex and Engara are working on a more permanent Top Dogz structure in the market’s food court. Menu items include hot dogs, locally produced spicy sausages, relishes, chutneys and chili sauces, showing what Alex refers to as “the versatility of hotdogs.” Loyal to their American inspiration, but with an island twist, the most popular menu item is the ‘Local American’. The frank is nestled in a locally baked, sesame seed bun and covered with tomato sauce, mustard, caramelized onions and cheese—in just the right proportions. As an American, I wondered why it took me 33 years to eat my first hot dog with caramelized onions. It’s delicious! Food is served on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 10am - 2pm. With prices ranging from $4-$7, there are no excuses not to pop in and give one a try.
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RAROTONGA BUS SCHEDULE Clockwise/Day/Night Schedule Bus Stop COOK’S CORNER BUS TERMINAL Paradise Inn Fishing Club/Club Raro Kiikii Motel Super Brown/Ariana Bungalows Matavera Village Traders Sunrise Beach Bungalows/Avana Condos Aroko Bungalows Muri Beach Club Hotel Pacific Resort Muri Beachcomber/Muri Beach/Sails Muri Beach Resort/Nautilus Fruits of Rarotonga Raina Beach Apartments/Charlie’s Cafe Little Polynesian/Maire Nui Garden Moana Sands Motel Royale Takitumu Villas/Bella Beach Sea Change Villas/Saltwater Cafe Palm Grove Lodges Wigmore’s Superstore/Waterfall Rarotongan Beach Resort/Sanctuary Lagoon Breeze Villas International Backpackers/Black Pearl Aro’a Beachside Inn Sunhaven/Rarotonga Backpackers Castaway Beach Resort Manuia Beach Resort Crown Beach Resort Edgewater Resort & Spa Sunset Resort/Cook’s Oasis Rarotonga Golf Club/Social Centre 21.3 Vaiana’s Bar Rarotonga International Airport/Islander Hotel CITC Supermarket Punanganui Market COOK’S CORNER BUS TERMINAL
Anti-Clockwise Day Schedule Mins Past Hour 00 02 05 06 07 09 11 13 14 15 16 17 18 18 19 20 21 22 25 26 30 31 33 34 35 36 37 38 40 42 43 44 45 48 49 50
The Clockwise bus departs Cook’s Corner Bus Terminal on the hour, every hour. Monday to Saturday - 7:00am to 11:00pm
Bus Stop COOK’S CORNER BUS TERMINAL Punanganui Market CITC Supermarket Islander Hotel/Rarotonga International Airport 21.3 Vaiana’s Bar Rarotonga Golf Club/Social Centre Cook’s Oasis/Sunset Resort Edgewater Resort & Spa Crown Beach Resort Manuia Beach Resort Castaway Beach Resort Rarotonga Backpackers/Sunhaven Aro’a Beachside Inn Black Pearl/International Backpackers Lagoon Breeze Villas Sanctuary/Rarotongan Beach Resort Waterfall/Wigmore’s Superstore Palm Grove Lodges Saltwater Cafe/Sea Change Villas Bella Beach/Royale Takitumu Villas Moana Sands Motel Little Polynesian/Maire Nui Garden Charlie’s Cafe/Raina Beach Apartments Fruits of Rarotonga Te Manava Villas Nautilus/Muri Beach Resort Muri Beachcomber Pacific Resort Muri Beach Club Hotel Sokala Villas/Kura’s Kabana/Tangaroa Cove Aroko Bungalows Avana Condos/Sunrise Beach Bungalows Tropical Sands Super Brown/Ariana Bunglows Kiikii Motel/Club Raro COOK’S CORNER BUS TERMINAL
Mins Past Hour 30 32 33 35 36 37 38 40 42 43 45 46 47 48 49 50 53 55 58 59 00 00 01 02 02 03 04 05 07 08 09 10 12 15 16 20
The Anti-Clockwise Bus departs Cook’s Corner Bus Terminal at 30mins past the hour. Mon- Fri - 8:30am to 4:30pm. Saturdays from 8:30am to 1:30pm
74 •Schedule ESCAPE Sunday (April – Nov) – 8:00am to 12:00 midday and from 2:00pm to 4:00pm. There are no Sunday anticlockwise or night buses.
AITUTAKI
From automatic fullyscooters to choose , rs ca ed d loa suit your a vehicle to needs l ua id iv d in rge r from ou la fleet‌
Our well-maintained and modern fleet includes 4 door cars & hatchbacks, soft tops and automatic scooters
Phone: (682) 31739 | Email: rentals@popoara.co.ck www.popoaraoceanbreeze.com
ONE INCREDIBLE DESTINATION ... Aitutaki Escape. Journey to the very heart of Polynesia.
ph. (682) 31906 mob. (682) 55755 reservations@aitutakiescape.com www.aitutakiescape.com
i k a t u t i A
a little slice of heaven
K
ia Orana! Aitutaki is 220 kilometers north and an easy 45 minute flight from Rarotonga, the capital of the Cook Islands. Considered one of the most magnificent lagoons in the world with small uninhabited islands on its surrounding reef, it is unquestionably the most picturesque of the Cooks southern group islands.
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Many visitors to the Cook Islands take the opportunity to discover Aitutaki’s beauty by taking a day trip from Rarotonga, which usually includes a cruise on the lagoon. However, the luxury of a little extra time fully reveals the stunning palette of a tropical retreat unsurpassed anywhere in the world; and a welcoming and friendly local populace who live life at an easy, relaxed pace. So, if you’re considering a visit - stay over a night or two, or preferably longer; you will not be disappointed. And certainly, a visit to the Cook Islands is not complete without visiting Aitutaki. It is a place of unsurpassed natural beauty and simple tranquility, providing a rejuvenating tonic to sooth away the pressures of the outside world. The breathtaking allure
of its crystal clear turquoise waters and sparkling white beaches confirms that it is “one of the places to visit while you are still on this earth”. From the air this island paradise has to be one of the most beautiful sights in the South Pacific. Aitutaki is made up of a triangular-shaped reef encompassing an aqua lagoon in which three volcanic and twelve small coral islands nestle. A small island is known locally as a motu. The best thing about Aitutaki is undoubtedly its lagoon. They have taxis here, but rather than those normally found on land, these are small fast boats equipped with outboard motors. They can take you to your own private island where you can spend the day snorkeling,
A I T U TA K I • CO O K I S L A N D S
Tamanu Beach
Tamanu Beach CASUAL LUXURY
It is a place of unsurpassed natural beauty and simple tranquility, providing a rejuvenating tonic to sooth away the pressures of the outside world. sunbathing or having a picnic, and then pick you up after several restful, sun-filled hours. There are also numerous lagoon tours, which last almost an entire day. Lunch, refreshments, snorkeling gear, and towels are always provided and nearly all tour operators can pick you up from the airport, or your hotel. Possibly the most well-known is Air Rarotonga’s day tour onboard Titi-ai-Tonga, a large double hulled vessel that cruises languidly in the lagoon. Sit down meals are served by friendly staff, and after snorkeling in the lagoon visitors are taken to One Foot Island (Tapuaetai).
Takurua Island Night
EVERY THURSDAY RESERVATIONS ESSENTIAL
Ph. 31 810 W W W.TA M A N U B E ACESCAPE H . CO• 77M
Bishops Cruises is perhaps the lagoon’s most experienced and they offer a choice of cruises to various islands. And you can opt for a smaller boat with a more intimate and personal tour if you wish. After a wonderful morning of snorkeling and feeding the fish, lunch is usually served at One Foot Island which boasts what could be the world’s smallest Post Office. Don’t forget to take your passport with you; because you can have it stamped here, making a great souvenir of your visit. This vast lagoon was once a stopover for the TEAL (Tasman Empire Airways Limited) Short Solent flying boats traveling the renowned ‘Coral Route’ through the South
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Pacific. TEAL is the former name of Air New Zealand and TEAL themery can be found in a small lodge on Motu Akaiami. The lodge has been built on the exact spot where the original terminal stood and remains of the original base and jetty are still visible today. Here the well-to-do of the fifties, including movie stars John Wayne, Cary Grant and the like, stopped for a few hours or even overnight, while planes were re-fuelled, serviced, or waiting for weather to clear. Passengers would swim in the clear warm waters in the bay, shower outdoors under the palms and eat lunches of crisply cut sandwiches and local pawpaw, before re-embarking. Aitutaki has an interesting aviation history. It was 1942 when the construction juggernaut that would soon become known as the Seabees came ashore and began constructing what many feared
would be the last line of defence for allied forces fighting the Japanese. The airport at Aitutaki was constructed as part of operation Bobcat. With their slogan” we build – we fight”, the Seabees soon had the island air-base operational; just in time to see them move from this part of the Pacific, as they pursued the Japanese further to the north and west. The runway has recently been completely rebuilt. Charmingly small, quaint even, Aitutaki airport is the busiest it’s been since the war days.
Back further in time; the first European discovery was by Captain Bligh sailing on the Bounty in 1789. He sighted the island just 17 days prior to the infamous mutiny. Bligh returned later to Aitutaki and is said to have introduced the pawpaw which, like other varieties of tropical fruit, grows in abundance all over the island.
50 years later the first missionary, the Reverend John Williams of The London Missionary Society, introduced Christianity to Aitutaki and the Cook Islands Christian Church, down by the wharf at Arutanga, became the very first Church built in the Cook Islands. A grand old lady with coral walls, stained glass windows and ornate ceiling decorations, she is a constant inspiration to locals and a reminder that Aitutaki was the first of the nation’s islands to embrace Christianity. Delving further into the islands past is local archaeologist Ngaakitai Pureariki. On a four acre site in one of Aitutaki’s bushclad valleys Nga’a is uncovering remnants of his peoples’ ancient past on a site strewn with large obelisk-like stones. Carbon dating of samples reveal that the Marae at Paengariki was established around 1000 A.D. Warriors met here before and after battle; sacred feasts and coming-of-age ceremonies were celebrated and human sacrifice took place. This is a fascinating place to visit for the Aitutaki Cultural Tour at Punarei. Visitors will find a wide range of accommodation options available on the main island; from award-winning resorts to less expensive clean and comfortable motels and backpacker operations. The best way to see the Aitutaki mainland is by hired car or motor scooter. A winding road criss-crossing the island and lots of small tracks, lead to interesting, unexpected places and a number of local villages. A short drive up Maunga Pu provides a fantastic 360 degrees’ lookout of the entire vista – whichever way you turn. Several guided tours are available on the main island, visiting ancient sites, burial grounds and major points of interest. Most serve light refreshments or lunch.
The highlight of Aitutaki is her lagoon and a visit is not complete without joining us for a fun filled day cruising this spectacular wonder. Explore the incredible marine life while snorkeling and swimming. We offer a range of tours and lagoon taxi services, hotel transfers, snorkeling gear, beach towels and BBQ lunch on the famous One Foot Island. We are also ‘Island Wedding’ specialists. Tel: +682 31009 Email: bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck Visit our website to discover more...
www.bishopscruises.com ESCAPE • 79
Luxurious Dining
with Pacific Resort Aitutaki
Rapae Bay Restaurant Creative contemporary cuisine with an island flavour. Regular live entertainment. Island Night on Wednesday. Casual diners welcome. Bookings essential.
Experience it for yourself!
www.pacificresort.com |
+682 31 720
s ’ o n i R
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NTA E R & L E MOT
WHITE SAND BEACH • SEA VIEWS • SPECTACULAR SUNSETS Beachfront or Garden Bungalows with kitchens, en-suite bathrooms, daily servicing and some with private balconies. Daily breakfast. Plus the largest fleet of rental vehicles on the island, at competitive rates. Airport pick-up service. Rino’s will add a personal touch to your vacation!
P: (682) 31 197 | M: (682) 55 839 | Email: rinos@aitutaki.net.ck
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80 • ESCAPE
A winding road criss-crossing the island and lots of small tracks, lead to interesting, unexpected places and a number of local villages. A short drive up Maunga Pu provides a fantastic 360 degrees’ lookout of the entire vista – whichever way you turn. Island nights with cultural shows are on throughout the week. Experiences not be missed are the island nights at Pacific Resort Aitutaki, Aitutaki Village, Tamanu Beach and Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa. Some of the best meals using local produce are to be savoured at Blue Lagoon restaurant, Boatshed Bar & Grill and Te Vaka Bar & Grill. On the waterfront near the wharf at Arutanga, is the Aitutaki Game Fishing Club which has a bar inside a shipping container; this is a good place to make contacts for deep sea fishing enthusiasts. At O’otu Beach you’ll find the Koru Café is an ideal spot for lunch and Blue Lagoon Restaurant & Bar, a great place for a meal any time of the day or night, or for lazing away long hours on a white sandy beach. Fishing aficionados will be in heaven on Aitutaki, as several operators offer game and sport fishing beyond the reef and there is always the call of the elusive bone-fish within the lagoon. Scuba diving is excellent in clear, warm waters and there is a choice of accredited operators who will show you a great time and a memorable underwater experience.
Hot sun, white sands, swaying coconut palms, a stunning turquoise lagoon and romantic sunsets - Aitutaki is blessed with them all; and friendly, laughing people that make you feel very welcome – all the time.
Relax with a cold drink while you enjoy the cool breezes and ocean view. Enjoy a simple all-day menu, or a-la-carte dinner menu featuring local seafood. We are the restaurant of Popoara Ocean Breeze Villas. P. 31479 | Email: boatshed@popoara.co.ck www.popoaraoceanbreeze.com
ESCAPE • 81
Atiu Be different, come to Atiu, our little Garden of Paradise
Enua Manu
T
here are few places left in the world like Atiu, an island with just over 500 people and acres and acres of untouched rainforest and coastal bush. There are no western bars (apart from the small one at Atiu Villas), bright neon lights or busy roads. For travellers searching for an island paradise, Atiu is it. Most overseas visitors to Atiu lament on departure that they wish they’d organised a longer stay on this unspoiled island gem, full of captivating history, scenery and friendly people. The Anatakitaki Cave walk is the perfect offering for visitors who want an unforgettable nature experience. On the day we went, we were guided by Marshall Humphreys. Married to Atiuan Jeanne, Marshall is proud of Atiu conservation and how the locals “always leave a bit for the next day, like when they go fishing and catch just enough to eat.” He’s also impressed with the way the island works as a community. Reasonable fitness and covered shoes are needed for the trek through tropical forest that resembles a fantastically overgrown garden. Regarded by environmentalists as a national treasure, Anatakitaki Cave is home to the Kopeka bird, a swallow unique to Atiu, which like a bat, navigates its way in the pitch black caverns using sonar. The towering limestone caverns contain cauliflower coral, proving that the caves were once beneath the sea, as these coral formations only occur underwater. There are huge stalactites reaching to the cavern floor and massive stalagmites sparkling as though they are embedded with millions of diamonds. The magnificence of the caverns is breathtaking.
u i t A las l i V
Atiu is an exciting eco island adventure you shouldn’t miss. Make this a prime destination or stop off on your way to, or from Aitutaki for a little extra airfare. Stay in comfort at Atiu Villas, the island’s most experienced hosts. Amenities and services include a licensed restaurant and bar, swimming pool, tennis court, tour packages, rentals and free Wi-Fi.
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BOOK ONLINE AT: www.atiuvillas.com Ph. (682) 33 777 | Email. roger@atiuvillas.com | www.atiu.info
If you’re looking for the perfect Cook Island experience, then this is the trip for you. AITUTAKI
Another tour takes you to Rimarau Burial Cave that includes visits to age old marae and “walking the dramatic route taken by hundreds as they went to meet their death in ancient times.” If beaches, historic sights and panoramic scenery also appeal, opt for an island tour. It offers contrasting scenery, drives through shady roads and forest thick with ancient trees to coastal tracks and points of interest including the coral garden, sinkholes and fabulous little beaches ideal for shell collecting or leisurely lolling in the warm, pristine sea. George Mateariki, better known as Birdman George, takes us on his morning tour – first stop is to catch a glimpse of the endangered Kakerori bird. We are a bit startled as George begins loudly beeping his car horn as we near the nesting ground. He explains that being inquisitive birds, Kakerori are drawn to unusual noises. He calls to them, walking through the picturesque bush and making kissing noises. The birds do not disappoint, replying with their call sounds. To see Kakerori so close is a real treat, as they were once on the brink of extinction.
Along the way, George points out medicinal plants and how they are used to treat various ailments. “I love my history and everything I know about Atiu was taught to me by my grandfathers,” says
ATIU
George. A fun experience is a visit to one of the legendary Atiu tumunu – ‘clubs’, where local men gather to drink homebrew and chat about island affairs, with clear rules about conduct. Often there’s a stringband for added entertainment. Visitors are always welcome to stop in, partake of a cup of the local brew and meet the locals. “There’s money in the land,” says Mata Arai, pointing to her coffee bushes laden with ripe berries. Mata is an industrious Atiuan woman who produces the 100 percent Atiu Island Coffee using a technique she learnt from her grandmother as a child. It’s a process all done by hand. Atiu Island Coffee can be purchased from Mata’s home, in Atiu stores, or supermarkets on Rarotonga.
RAROTONGA
Air Rarotonga’s
Two Island Discovery
We’ll fly you from Rarotonga to Aitutaki Aitutaki is frequently referred to as one of the world’s favourite islands. It encircles a spectacular turquoise lagoon where opportunities for swimming and snorkelling abound, or you may choose to simply wander the white sand beaches.
… then on to extraordinary Atiu …
fact file: Atiu is a 45 minute flight north-east from Rarotonga and there are regular scheduled flights. Alternatively, why not consider an Air Rarotonga ‘Two Island Adventure’ which includes two night’s accommodation at Tamanu Beach Resort in Aitutaki and two night’s accommodation at Atiu Villas on amazing Atiu. Local tours are optional and extra. Available from April to October, flights depart Rarotonga on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
Atiu is also known as Enuamanu, “island of the birds”. Amongst the magnificent rain forest bird life is prolific. You may even see the recently re-introduced Kura, or Rimatara Lorikeet. Delicious local fruit is always available along with a great brew of Atiu grown coffee.
and back to Rarotonga
Book through Air Rarotonga Tel: (682) 22888 | www.airraro.com LM/SD 2022178B
Most overseas visitors to Atiu lament on departure that they wish they’d organised a longer stay on this unspoiled island gem, full of captivating history, scenery and friendly people.
www.airraro.com ESCAPE • 83
South Pacific Our
Home
a
sprinkling of island gems on an indigo blue ocean... The Cook Islands combined make up a land area of just 240 square kilometers. They are scattered far and wide in the vast expanse of the South Pacific Ocean, covering a total area of 2.25 million square kilometers. Each of these ‘gems’ is unlike any other; all having their own special characteristics and every one offering a warm welcome to visitors.
The Southern Group Atiu See our story on page 82. Takutea Just a few miles off the coast of Atiu lies the uninhabited island of Takutea. Numerous seabirds thrive on this pristine island that has been declared a bird sanctuary by the Atiu Island Council. Only they can give permission for visitors to land there. Mauke The garden island of the Cook group, Mauke is 18 kilometres around. It is surrounded by makatea (fossilised coral) with a volcanic plateau in the centre. Parts of the foreshore are dotted with isolated white sandy coves and caves that one can swim in. Inland there are fresh water caves and the famous Motuanga Cave
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that has galleries reaching beneath the reef. The reef is so close to the foreshore that crashing white breakers are visible from most of the unsealed coral road that runs around the island. Do visit the “divided church” built where the villages of Ngatiarua and Areora meet. Shared by the two villages, it has two separate entrances and sitting areas. There are clean and comfortable places to stay in Mauke - try Ri’s Retreat or Tiare Holiday Cottages. They can also organise cave, reef and forest tours. Be sure to obtain a garland of the fragrant maire, a creeper that grows along the makatea. Mauke is picturesque, unhurried and tranquil – a wonderful tonic for frayed nerves.
it is any less beautiful than sister islands Atiu and Mauke, but simply that it is the least known. In the centre of Mitiaro are two lakes full of itiki, freshwater eels. Mitiaro itiki are considered a delicacy in the Cook Islands. Tilapia (bream) are also abundant in the lakes. The lakes are from time to time protected by a traditional raui, a prohibition on all fishing to preserve stocks. At its widest point, the island is 6.4 km across and private gardens in the village are beautifully kept and neat. Community activities include fishing, sports, handicrafts and uapou, or village singsongs. Pretty and unspoiled, life on Mitiaro is refreshingly uncomplicated.
Mitiaro Of the cluster of islands in the southern group called Nga Pu Toru, Mitiaro would be the least visited by tourists. Not because
Mangaia Imagine visiting a fairly large island where you and maybe a handful of others are the only tourists. Mangaia is an island
Left: Mitiaro Previous page: Takutea
of incredible, serene beauty – from its rugged coastline to the lush, green interior. It is peaceful beyond belief for those accustomed to the constant rush and haste of the outside world. This is a place where one can trek for miles along the coast or in the interior and not meet another soul or hear a vehicle. Nor see any dwellings; just lots of well-tended plantations of pineapples, vegetables, taro, kumara and other crops. Deep-sea fishing excursions are available – just ask your host, who can also steer you in the right direction for guided tours that include caving, reef/lagoon walks, bush walks and bird watching. Check out the market on Friday mornings in the ‘town’ centre and the craftwork by the skilled Mangaian women. The shell necklaces and woven pandanus bags are labour intensive and sold for very reasonable prices. Mangaia is the destination for those who love the outdoors, appreciate peace and quiet and want to experience a friendly island that’s not in the least “touristy.”
Palmerston Made famous by Englishman William Marsters, who settled there in 1863 with three wives. He later married and raised a large family. Marsters’ modern day descendents are scattered all over the world. About 60 still remain in Palmerston, which has six motu or islets in a big blue lagoon about 11 km across. The family exports fish, supplying in particular, parrot fish to Rarotonga restaurants. Palmerston hosts the occasional cruise ship and yachts frequently call in. The island also boasts one of the world’s most isolated bars, where thirsty yachties can enjoy a “cold one” and hear tales being regaled by the islanders. It is 500 km NW of Rarotonga.
Manuae Manuae is an uninhabited nature reserve and an important seabird and turtle breeding ground. Its two islets in a large shallow lagoon make-up this incredibly beautiful island, situated about 100 km SE of Aitutaki. Many Aitutakians can claim traditional land rights to parts of Manuae. Once inhabited by work gangs of Cook Islands men who produced copra, it is now only occasionally visited by Aitutaki fisherman for its rich fishing grounds outside and within the lagoon. It is possible to view Manuae from the air, on a flight from Atiu to Aitutaki.
Ever wanted to run away? To get lost on a deserted island? To hide out with a group of friends and stay as long as you want? Why not charter your own plane and explore the magnificent outer islands of the Cooks.*
Plaonur y
LM/SD 2022123
own
Call our Travel Centre on 22-888 and we’ll help you escape!
Optional extras include:
Inflight catering Experienced tour guide Ground tours & sightseeing Overnight adventure accommodation in the far north to luxury resorts on breath-taking Aitutaki
* We also offer charters
Island E scape
to Niue and Tahiti
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The Northern Group Suwarrow Suwarrow is one of the few "untouched" sanctuaries left in the world where existing endangered species can survive. The Suwarrow National Park is the first National Park in the Cook Islands - international environmental groups recognise the group of tiny atolls as an untouched haven and breeding area for turtles, sea birds and crabs. Because of the lack of human intervention, Suwarrow is acknowledged as one of the most important sea bird breeding areas in the Pacific. A caretaker and his family live on Suwarrow during the cyclone off-season, between April and November each year. Yachts often visit the island during these months. Suwarrow was made famous by New Zealand hermit Tom Neale, who lived there during the early 1950’s and again in the early 1960’s. He wrote about his experiences in his book “An Island to Oneself.”
Pukapuka Lying northwest 1150 km from Rarotonga, Pukapuka is one of the most isolated islands of the Cook group. One interisland flight from Rarotonga about every six weeks and irregular shipping has kept Pukapuka one of the most untouched and secluded places in the Pacific. Its remoteness has also kept the traditions and culture of Pukapuka largely unchanged for centuries. Islanders speak the distinct Pukapukan language as well as Cook Islands Maori. According to legend, almost 500 years ago the Pukapuka population was almost entirely wiped out during a catastrophic storm that struck the island. Fourteen people survived, from whom Pukapukan’s today are said to descend. The late American writer Robert Dean Frisbie settled there in 1924 and immortalised Pukapuka in the books he wrote about life on the island. The now uninhabited area where he lived with his Pukapuka wife and children is one of the most beautiful – an untouched white sandy beach with palm trees reaching out to tease the clear blue lagoon.
Nassau Access to this tiny island of about 80 Pukapukans can only be gained by interisland boat. Regarded as the sister island of Pukapuka, a voyage from Rarotonga takes about three days. The islanders are adept at surviving an isolated lifestyle that remains unchanged year after year. Nassau was hooked up to the country’s telephone system only in 2001 and many of the people had never used a telephone before. Just 1.2 sq. km in size, where families live in kikau thatched cottages.
Manihiki The cultured black pearl capital of the Cook Islands. Quality black pearls become centrepieces for fine jewellery that are worn by women and men all over the world. In 1997, the island survived one of the worst cyclones in Cook Islands history. It claimed 19 lives after a tidal wave swept men, women and children out into the huge, raging lagoon. Pearl farms dot this remarkable lagoon. Villagers use small outboard boats to travel between Tukao and Tauhunu – two villages on separate islets – or to their pearl farms set up on coral outcrops. Some of the pearl farms
Penrhyn (or Tongareva) is the most remote of the Cook group, lying 1365 km NNE of Rarotonga. It has a remarkable blue water lagoon measuring 233 sq km. 86 • ESCAPE
COOK ISLANDS
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Above: Manihiki Previous page: Penrhyn
Manihiki is astonishingly beautiful and those who have been fortunate enough to visit the island, have never been disappointed. are sophisticated operations jutting out of the deep blue lagoon, complete with small gardens and poultry farms that help support workers who live in modern quarters. Manihiki women have made history for entering what was once a male dominated vocation. A number of women own and manage their own pearl farms, diving, seeding and cleaning the oyster shells all year around. The women are also renowned for their finely woven craftwork. Manihiki is astonishingly beautiful and those who have been fortunate enough to visit the island, have never been disappointed. Rakahanga Sister island of Manihiki and 42km north-west. Visits to Rakahanga are only possible by boat from Manihiki or inter-island vessel. There are two main islands and seven islets in the Rakahanga lagoon. The island is picturesque and unspoiled. Penrhyn Penrhyn (or Tongareva) is the most remote of the Cook group, lying 1365 km NNE of Rarotonga. It has a remarkable blue water lagoon measuring 233 sq km. A 77-km coral reef encircles the islets in the extraordinary lagoon. The villages of Tetautua and Omoka are on different islets that are barely visible to each other. Penrhyn island women make the finest rito craftwork in the Cook Islands. Hats, bags, fans and mats made in Penrhyn are amongst the best to be found anywhere in the world.
Unlimited Kilometres Airport Pick-up & Drop-off Afterhours Roadside Assistance LOCATIONS Downtown Avarua Pacific Resort Muri Rarotonga International Airport RESERVATIONS Phone: (682) 22833 Email: reservations@aviscookislands.com
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www.aviscookislands.comESCAPE • 87
on the hook
SPORT FISHING IN RAROTONGA Story: Kirby Morejohn
F
ull of anticipation for a successful day on the water, I pulled my motorbike into the Avatiu harbor just as the rising sun was starting to illuminate the mountains. I felt a vibration in my pocket. It was one of the owners of Marlin Queen Fishing Charters, Diane, calling me. As I parked my bike, I watched Diane put her phone back into her pocket. I was the last one to arrive, late for our 7:00 A.M. departure, and, slightly embarrassed. It was 7:08 a.m. Fishing charters were apparently not operating on ‘island time’ here in Rarotonga. “Kia Orana, Kirby,” she welcomed, and quickly introduced me to the crew and three other anglers, who, lucky for me, were all smiles. As quickly as I stepped on board the Marlin Queen, fishing lines were cast and we were on our way. Junior and Diane Ioapa formed Marlin Queen Fishing Charters in early 2011. Diane, a businesswoman, had already been helping her husband, Junior, with his previous company ‘Jr.’s Fishing Charter’ when they decided to go all in, together. They travelled to New Zealand in search of a substantially sized fishing boat, finally falling in love with a beautiful white vessel
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in Tauranga. The fly bridge sport fisher was the first and is currently the largest of their three-boat fleet. Capable of carrying eight anglers, a deckhand and a captain, this boat is both the flagship and namesake of the business. As we pulled out of the harbor, our deckhand Katoa set up four gunwale mounted trolling rods. Junior, the owner and our captain that day, set up a fifth from the rear of the elevated bridge. With five lines in the water I was optimistic that it would be an eventful day (and that we’d come home with fresh fish for dinner). Katoa assigned each angler and each rod a number. There were four of us and if a fish was hooked, the numbering system would indicate whose turn it was to reel. Perfect. The fifth rod was a wild card and would go to whoever hadn’t caught a fish. The operations were quickly sorted and we began trolling westward. With time for more conversation, better introductions ensued. First, I got to know John, lucky number one, who was from Hawkes Bay, New Zealand and on holiday with his wife. Numbers two and three were EJ from Western Australia and Brad from
Pukekohe, New Zealand. EJ and Brad were visiting Rarotonga for a wedding and because they proclaimed this a special weekend, they were having Heineken for breakfast. We had all done a fair amount of fishing, but due to our mixed geographic homelands, we came with varied experience with different types of fish using different techniques. Comically, if you added up the time the four of us spent targeting the tropical pelagic species we were fishing for today (marlin, maimai, wahoo, yellowfin tuna), it totaled nearly zero. Thankfully, we had Junior and Katoa, who both hailed from the northern Cook Island, Manihiki. From what I can gather, when Cook Islanders come from the outer islands, they know how to fish because otherwise, they would starve. And knowing how to fish becomes even more necessary if like Junior, you happen to be one of the eldest of 16 children and expected to help provide for your large family. No doubt, this adds to his ability to help us provide for our own families, who are anxiously awaiting our return to the harbour. It was at 8:00 a.m., only one hour into our trip when the first fish struck. Rod number one was bent, the drag, screaming. Everybody froze. I was surprised when the boat didn’t stop, but kept going at the same pace. One hand on the wheel and the other on the throttle, Junior was staring back over his shoulder at the hooked fish and remaining four lines. He knew a fish was on but wasn’t slowing down. It was just as I was about to ask Katoa what the heck was going on when, the second fish struck. A double hookup! Junior then eased off the throttle, but kept the boat in drive, maintaining tension on the lines. In the confusion of me trying to remember my number, someone, maybe EJ or Brad, strapped a rod belt to my waist – apparently it was rod number four that was bent. I was number four! Katoa instructed number one, John, to climb into the fighting chair. “Reel!” Junior shouted.
h us?
Katoa and Junior gave us encouragement and swift advice as they quickly brought in the remaining three lines. The fish were heavy and John and I were huffing and puffing, fighting the tension between the boat and fish. The rods were short, rigid trollers, and transferred every movement of the fish directly into our hands. Junior kept telling us to reel as fast as possible while keeping the boat at a slow forward tick. My forearms were burning by the time I got my fish to the boat. Junior was there with an expert gaff job. I had boated my first wahoo, and at 20-25 kilos, my largest fish on a rod and reel. I was ecstatic. A carbon copy of my wahoo, John’s fish was boated just after mine, his first wahoo as well. Two wahoo, two firsts and all within the first hour! This was shaping up to be a great day. It took less than five minutes before the fish were on ice and the lines back in the water. Junior made a big loop, headed right back to the area where we had caught the fish. And like clockwork, we had another double hookup. We were all a bit more schooled on what to do after the chaos that ensued during my turn. It was now EJ and Brad’s turn. Katoa passed them the rods, Junior eased off the throttle and the remaining lines were rapidly cleared from the water. Suddenly Junior started shouting “Reel! Reel!” simultaneously increasing the speed of the boat. That’s when we heard the heart sinking ‘pop.’ Immediately, the tension on both rods was gone. I could hear the disappointment in Junior’s voice as he relayed what just happened. The fish had swum toward each other, which crossed the lines, causing the lines to break. From his position up in the bridge, Junior could see the fish. Both were wahoo but one was twice as large as the others, which he estimated weighed about 40 kilos. The saying “that’s why they call it fishing and not catching” popped into my head.
wit Why come fishing Our record fish and high catch rate speaks for itself!
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Rarotonga’s best known & most trusted local crew
We untangled the lines, rebaited and got them back in the water. Katoa sat down and pulled a couple maroro (flying fish) out of a cooler. Using two hooks on steel leader and what appeared to be copper wire, he began expertly weaving and sewing the fish and hooks together. When I asked why he was doing this, he explained that of the multiple baits and lures we had been trolling, the wahoo only struck the maroro today. Therefore, more maroro was needed. He also mentioned that it takes some time to tie maroro so they would swim just right. With fistfuls of excitement, it was still only 8:30 a.m. I remained optimistic but unfortunately, no more tied maroro would be needed that day because we didn’t get another strike. It didn’t matter though because we were all stoked on our efforts.
even cracked. Katoa hosed down the boat as Junior expertly filleted the wahoo. Fish was shared between the four of us anglers, with enough meat given to each angler so that they could finish it by the remainder of their trip. I was happy. That night’s dinner with my partner included home cooked, seared wahoo steaks covered in a chili coconut cream sauce. This island style twist was the perfect end to a memorable South Pacific day.
Back at the docks it was high fives all around. Diane was there with a big smile, welcoming us back. Junior must have radioed the news of our fish because she congratulated us before the chilly bin was
ESCAPE • 89
plants & animals
Here we try to shed some light on the background and existence of a culturally significant plant and animal.
Story & photos: Kirby Morejohn
Taro
Taro
Colocasia esculenta
T
hought to be a native of East India and/or the Indo-Malaysian Peninsular region, taro is one of the oldest cultivated plants. It’s an edible member of the Araceae family, the same as commonly known plants such as philodendron and calla lily. Taro was spread eastward from Asia to the Pacific between 1600 BC and 1200 BC. It was said to have arrived in the Cook Islands between 800 AD and 1200 AD. And like many species of terrestrial plants, taro was brought by Polynesian voyagers to the remote Pacific islands as an important food source. The taro plant produces a corm, which is a large, underground stem. The entire corm, stem and leaves can be eaten, but only after sufficient cooking.
Fields of deep green, heart-shaped plants line the backroads of Rarotonga. These pa’i taro, (taro plantations) are generally in low moist areas that are sometimes flooded with water. The taro dish is made by peeling, cubing and boiling the corm. It is often a simple kīnaki (accompanying dish), served alone, cold or warm. Taro is a starchy vegetable and while it has a unique flavor and texture, is often compared to the potato. Taro leaves, both before and after cooking are called rukau, locally. Rukau is most often made by boiling young inner leaves, pouring off the water, and cooking again in fresh coconut cream. Rukau is a popular kīnaki and served in local restaurants as ‘island spinach.’
Throughout the Cook Islands, the taro plant remains a staple of the local diet.
Rori Sea cucumber
Holothuria atra and Holothuria leucospilota
O
f the many sea cucumber species found in the Cook Islands, H. atra and H. leucospilota are the most common. While they have a number of English names (black sea cucumber, threadfish, lollyfish, etc.), when in the Cooks, it is easiest to call sea cucumbers by their local name, rori. Rori are most numerous in shallow sandy lagoons and on reef flats, where
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snorkelers and beachgoers observe them, sometimes begrudgingly. Often referred to as the lagoon’s vacuum cleaners, they feed by ingesting mouthfuls of the sea floor, extracting organic matter (like algae), and leaving behind a trail of beautifully cleaned sand. In the Cook Islands, the sea cucumber is consumed as matu rori. The dish is prepared by collecting the spaghetti like gonads from the animal by cutting a small incision or hole in the body. Interestingly, most animals survive this seemingly traumatic process and are able to be harvested again at a later date, unlike the bêche-de-mer dish, which requires the entire sea cucumber. The matu rori may be eaten either raw or cooked. Women and children are primary gatherers of rori. Harvest is generally performed by hand on low tides at the beginning of summer, the peak season for ripe matu
rori. While the animals may look similar to the untrained eye, it’s important for harvesters to be able to identify both the correct species and appropriate maturity level before selecting sea cucumbers for this local delicacy. Popular dishes include matu rori and cooked green bananas topped with lime, or served on top of a bed of rukau (cooked taro leaves). Matu rori is described as tasting “like the sea with a rich, salty taste and sweet undertones.”
Guidelines for an enjoyable time at the beach and in the lagoon… Coral is a living organism! It takes hundreds of years to develop a reef like ours and you can harm the reef just by standing on it; many steps may kill it. What you can do to help… • Make sure your gear fits properly, is comfortable and adjusted, before you go in the water. If you need to make adjustments, find a sandy area on which to stand, or swim to the shore. •
If there is a RAUI (protected marine area) in place, please respect it and leave everything in the lagoon that belongs to it.
•
Observe animals exhibiting their natural behavior rather than stimulating them to entertain.
•
Please do not harass or touch protected species, such as turtles, giant clams and fragile corals.
•
There is no need to feed the fish. To attract them closer just bang two little stones together. They will come.
•
Please take your rubbish with you when you leave the beach.
Thank you for looking after our lagoon. Take nothing but memories – leave nothing but bubbles…
Photos: The Dive Centre & Jim Gariu
entertainment guide to live local Cook Islands music and dancing all around town.
Take in the sunset with a cocktail near the water; catch an Island Night Show with beautiful dancers, and get down ND BO E S TH AT U T L E T E L O AB AIL MIUM V A RE W P NO AND
Raro’s night life is special – you can have a great night out whether you’re on your own, or with friends. 18 or 80 years old, it doesn’t matter, everyone just gets together. And you’ll feel welcome wherever you go. Island Night Shows are a must for every visitor. There is nothing better than seeing our beautiful men and women, adorned in flowers and local costume, dancing to the wonderful pate (hollowed wooden drums), ukulele, guitar, and full voiced singers. It is a joyful, sensual and exuberant experience. Check out our Island Night Shows Guide on these pages to find a venue that suits you.
During the week A number of Rarotonga restaurants feature live music during the week - refer to our Night Life Guide for details of what’s on, when and where. It’s great to wander into some of our smaller local bars too - the Game Fishing Club is right on the water; meet the locals and play some pool, this bar is just east of town. If you’re staying around the Muri or Titikaveka area, try Silver Sands Restaurant at Muri Beach Club Hotel, or for a la carte dining and some local music the Pacific Resort, also well known for their Island Night show. For casual ambience, check out the Asian street-style food at The Rickshaw, or mouth-watering Mexican dishes at La Casita.
RAROTONGA’S
BEST SELECTION OF INTERNATIONAL BEER BRANDS
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For a Wednesday music night try Coelho’s who do their steak night with local musos. Also, try Hideaway Bar in Cooks Corner, for a more eclectic feel or the Garden Bar in Banana Court On the sunset side, you have great choices from Aro’a Shipwreck Hut for casual dining, to OTB at Manuia resort for beachside dining, to Flambe at Crown Beach for their fire nights or Kikau Hut especially on Mondays for live music.
s r a l l e c 1 . o Your N
Remember that it pays to make a reservation if visiting a restaurant, to avoid disappointment; and if you want music with your meal, ask who their resident singer is that night. Check the local paper or ask your resort what’s happening at the local sports clubs – join in for some good live music, cheap drinks, and great company. Local women enjoy dressing up, and the men prefer comfortable shorts, shirt/t-shirt and sandals, but dress code is open.
Friday Night Friday night is party night, as clubs and bars can open until 2am, unlike every other night, which is 12 midnight. Downtown Avarua is a great place to start: First up is a sunset cocktail at Trader Jacks, where there’s always a nice mix of locals and tourists. After a couple of hours, walk across the road to Boogies Bar at the BC (Banana Court), known all over the Pacific. Boogies features local bands from 4pm to 9pm and then its inside for some raw local music and dancing. Trader Jack’s ‘Boogieman’ band, with some of our best musos on the island, starts around 8pm. Hidies Bar, located in Cooks Corner, has a big open-air dance floor, great drinks, a true island flavour and is Rarotonga’s iconic local hangout, with live bands and resident DJ. Open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, Hidies famed ‘Happy Hour’ runs Friday from 4-7pm. Later in the night it’s back to Rehab for some dancing, or perhaps for some of the latest hip hop, R’n’B, and techno sounds. The great thing about this town is that the bars are only minutes away from each other. It’s safe and people are friendly and will give you directions. Remember to organise a dedicated driver or taxi if you’re drinking. An organized Nightlife Tour is another great way to enjoy your Friday night and you won’t need to do the driving. Rehab in Downtown Avarua and The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa both run their own legendary ‘Pub Crawls’. Be sure to book in advance to avoid disappointment.
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Remember you’re in Raro now, on ‘Island Time’, so relax and enjoy.
In central Avarua, opposite Punanga Nui Marketplace Open Mon - Thur 9 to 5 | Fri & Sat 9 to 7 ESCAPE • 93 Phone: 21007 Email: trish@thebond.co.ck
entertainment guide
Rarotonga night-life guide
Keep our roads safe if you’re drinking:
MONDAY
Taxis: Refer to yellow pages and book homecoming fare before you go out. Clockwise Bus: Evening bus departs Cook’s Corner clockwise only, every hour Monday to Saturday from 6pm to 11pm. Times are subject to change so contact the i Site 29435 to confirm
Crown Beach Resort& Spa: Live music Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights Edgewater Resort& Spa: Tok 6:30-8:30 Great Classic tunes, jazz, pop, rock
(Bookings are recommended)
FRIDAY
TUESDAY
24006 21003
Aitutaki Village, Aitutaki
31526
The Edgewater Resort & Spa
25435
Highland Paradise Culture Centre
31720
23953
Bluewater Grill @ Sanctuary Rarotonga-onthe-beach: Live entertainment with Tara Kauvai
Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights
Edgewater Resort& Spa: Ta’akoka Dance Troupe Island Night Buffet and Cultural show
OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Live entertainment (transfers available)
Rehab: Boogie night with local DJ. Hip-hop, R’n’B, Techno
$36 pp + crab racing and Karaoke
SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Pig & Prawn Night with live music with Rob & Roy
Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show &Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet
OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Live entertainment (transfers available)
Rehab: Old school night
Saturday Boogies: Karaoke The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa 25800 Te Vara Nui Village 24006 THURSDAY Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: The Edgewater Resort & Spa 25435 Pub Night menu with live entertainment
Aro’a Beachside Inn: Sunset cocktails with live music
now, on ‘Island Time’, so relax and enjoy!
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Pacific Resort:Tamariki Manuia. A la carte dining and live local artist Kahiki Tehaamatai
Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach
SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live music with Natua and then Island Night with Thursday Akirata Dance Group Te Vara Nui Village 24006 Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Crown Beach Resort & Spa 23953 Resort & Spa: ‘Legends of Polynesia’ Island Night UMU Feast & Drum Dance Show @ $49 pp Friday + Karaoke Highland Paradise Culture Centre 23953 Crown Beach Resort& Spa: Live music
Remember you’re in Raro
Edgewater Resort & Spa: Tok 6:30–8:30 Dining with great local music + Edgewater Resorts “Nitelife Tour” Garden Bar - Banana Court: Great local & upbeat music with bar snacks available
Wednesday WEDNESDAY Edgewater Resort & Spa: Local Band The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa 25800 A la carte Seafood menu with local Muri Beach Club Hotel 23000 entertainment Pacific Resort Aitutaki
Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Band Steak / Ribs Night with live entertainment
Aro’a Beachside Inn: Live music on the beach
Tuesday Resort & Spa: Spices of Asia Mongolian BBQ @ The Islander Hotel
Te Vaka Restaurant @ The RarotonganBeach Resort & Spa: Reef & Beef night @ $36 pp with mellow musical accompaniment by Andre Tapena.
Pacific Resort: A la carte dining and live local artist Fred Betham
Monday SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live Highland Paradise Culture Centre 23953 music with Ephraima on keyboards
Te Vara Nui Village
Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet
Boogies: Mix of bands
Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Seafood Night with entertainment
Island Night Shows – Quick Guide
SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:Live music with the sweet sounds of Cathy on keyboard
SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live island music Nooroa & Soko on island strings
Rehab: Old school night
OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Live entertainment (transfers available)
Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live music followed by Island Night Show Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys A la carte menu with great local sounds Garden Bar - Banana Court: Live Entertainment Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights
Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Flame-Grilled Steak Night @ $36 pp + The Rarotongan’s famous Friday Funbus Nitelife Tour @ $25 pp. Trader Jacks: Boogieman - rock classics & seafood, steaks & pizza Boogies: Rock band
SATURDAY
Aro'a Beachside Inn: Great beach BBQ with live music Edgewater Resort& Spa: Island Night Buffet & Cultural Show with Orama Dance Group Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Live entertainment (transfers available) Pacific Resort: Tok 6:30-8:30 A la carte dining and live local artist Kura Happ Rehab: DJ. Hip hop, R’n’B’, dance night Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Fire Dance Show & Island BBQ @ $49 pp + Karaoke Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet
SUNDAY
Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: BBQ with live entertainment Bluewater Grill @ Sanctuary Rarotonga-onthe-beach: Live entertainment with Tara Kauvai Club Raro: BBQ night with local string band
Aitutaki night-life guide MONDAY
Bounty Brasserie @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Fire dance show, a la carte dinner & crab races
Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Sunset barbeque starts at 5pm with live entertainment Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys -local string band OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Lunch and Beach BBQ and Live Island Strings (transfers available)
Tupuna’s Restaurant: Great a-la-carte dining with the freshest local foods in a relaxed garden setting. Mon-Sat from 6pm
TUESDAY
SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Reef & Beef night with live music with Henry & Destiny
Aitutaki Village: Island buffet and cultural show on the sandy beach at Ootu
Pacific Resort: A la carte dining and live local artist Rudi Aquino
WEDNESDAY
Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Sunday Carvery Roast @ $36 pp with Tok on guitar
Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: A good evening to visit and meet the locals. Where else would you find a bar in a 20 foot container? Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Live entertainment with Greig Mose
Pacific Resort: Island night South Pacific cuisine and performances by local Aitutaki song and dance troupe The Boatshed Bar & Grill: Check out this popular restaurant any day of the week. A-lacarte menu for lunch & dinner. Great cocktails!
THURSDAY
Tamanu Beach: Island Fire &Dance Show on the beach. Fantastic entertainment with a great selection of food
FRIDAY
Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: One of the most popular local bars to visit for a sun-downer Coconut Crusher Bar: Entertainment and party the night away with your host Ricky Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Live entertainment with Greig Mose. Funbus Nitelife Tour @ $35 pp
SUNDAY
Aitutaki Village: All day barbeque with great entertainment Tamanu Beach: Sunset Barbeque Night with great local entertainment and island food
Prices or schedules are subject to change at any time.
No
w a an vai d p lab rem le a ium t Th ou e Bo tle ts nd
A taste of Marlborough IN THE COOK ISLANDS
ESCAPE • 95
what's on
t
hroughout the year we find many reasons to celebrate and have fun, and there’s always plenty to do and see on Rarotonga and her sister islands. As most Cook Islanders are willing sports participants, you’ll find a multitude of sports codes and clubs active throughout the islands, where you are always welcome to visit. As for festivals and celebratory events, it is certain that you will always find something of interest taking place.
JANUARY TIANUARE
APRIL APERIRA
Sun 1st New Year’s Day – public holiday
Sun 2nd to Tue 4th Real swim adventure
Mon 2nd Day after New Year’s Day – public holiday Cook Islands Rugby League Association Tri- Series
Sun 9th to Wed 12th La Chaine des Rotisseurs events
Tue 3rd New Year’s Day observed - public holiday Cook Islands Rugby League Club 9’s Fri 27th La Chaine des Rotisseurs New Year’s Celebration dinner & wines Mon 30th School term 1 begins
FEBRUARY PEPERUARE Wed 1st to Sat 4th Tropical Tango Throwdown – International Cross-fit competition Mon 6th to Sat 11th Cook Islands Beach Games Festival
Thu 13th School term 1 ends Fri 14th Good Friday – public holiday
JUNE TIUNU
Mon 17th Easter Monday - public holiday
Mon 5th Queen’s Birthday – public holiday
Fri 21st Te Mire Ura Golden Oldies, ex-Pats and visitor finals
Tue 6th Kumete Sports
Sun 23rd St Georges Day
Thu 27th Te Mire Ura Juniors & Intermediate Grand Finals
Fri 17th St. Patricks Day Tue 21st International Day of Forests
Wed 17th Matutu Mile fun run
Sun 16th Easter Sunday
Mon 20th to Wed 22nd Kai Maori Food Festival – Indigenous food showcase
Mon 13th Penrhyn Gospel Day – Public holiday Penrhyn
Tue 16th Turtles ‘Tour de Raro’ cycle race
Thu 25th Palmerston Gospel Day – public holiday in Palmerston
Sun 12th to Sat 18th Te Mou O Te Enua – Harvest Festival
Thu 9th Te Mire Atu – Cook Islands Maori Composers competition
Sun 14th Triathlon Awards Dinner Mothers Day
Sat 15th to Sat 22nd Kia Orana Football Festival
Tue 25th ANZAC Day – public holiday SEAVA Reunion
MARCH MATI
Sat 13th Air New Zealand Rarotonga Triathlon
Wed 7th to Sat 10th Environment Week Thu 15th Mangaia Gospel Day - public holiday in Mangaia
JULY TIURAI Fri 7th ‘Ra o te Ui Ariki’ (Ariki Day) – public holiday
MAY ME
Thu 14th Bastille Day
Mon 1st School Term 2 begins
Wed 19th Atiu Gospel Day – public holiday in Atiu
Mon 1st to Thu 4th Cook Islands Golden Oldies Rugby Festival
Fri 21st School Term 2 complete – School Holidays begin Mitiaro Gospel Day – public holiday in Mitiaro
Thu 4th Te Mire Ura Senior Open Grand Finals Sun 7th Red Cross Day Thu 11th to Wed 17th Air New Zealand International Triathlon Week Commences With Trader Jack’s Boiler Swim
Sun 23rd Mauke Gospel Day – public holiday in Mauke Fri 28th to Sun 6th Aug Te Maeva Nui celebrations
All events take place on Rarotonga, unless stated otherwise. Dates and events are provided courtesy of Cook Islands Tourism Corporation and were correct at time of publication, but subject to change without notice. Visitors are advised to confirm event dates with the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435
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FEBRUARY 12-18TH 2016 Te Mou O Te Enua – Harvest Festival This festival is about celebrating the growers of the Cook Islands. The weeklong festival will start with a harvest blessing ceremony on February 12 followed by a range of activities including field and food days and a market day. A number of competitions will also be held for biggest watermelon, bananas, and other classes such as flower displays, especially with Valentine’s Day being on the 14th.
APRIL 15TH-22ND Kia Orana Football Festival The Cook Islands Football Association (CIFA) is launching its inaugural youth event for all under 16 interested clubs and schools wanting to play football in paradise. The event will be for a week and held on the beautiful Rarotonga and give players the chance to experience the rich culture the Cook Islands has to offer. The goal of the Kia Orana Football Youth festival is to provide youth teams the opportunity get a taste of our beautiful and vibrant culture, nurture new companionships and provide teams with pre-season competition and friendly matches. For further information and to register contact: Pauline@cookislandsfootball.com or check out their Facebook page – Kia Orana Football Youth festival.
7
Events That You Shouldn’t Miss…
APRIL 21ST – MAY 4TH
APRIL 23RD-28TH
Te Mira Ura
SEAVA Reunion
Te Mire Ura is an annual event held for individual dancers from the ages of 10 years old right up to 60+. The competition is between male and female dancers according to their categories. They are judged by their performances in the areas of choreography, stage presentation and upper and lower body movements in the different age groups.
Chance to join old friends who served in South East Asia in New Zealand’s armed forces between 1972 and 1989. This will be the first time the reunion has been held in the Cook Islands and is seen as a way to acknowledge and honour those Cook islanders who served in the New Zealand forces
During this time of the year we have dancers joining from the main island of Rarotonga and also some from the outer islands. The female dancers get to dance a solo to their choice of Cook Islands Maori songs and drumbeat while the male dancers’ memorise a chant and dance to a drumbeat. The drumbeats are split in two sections: slow beat and fast beat about 1.5 minute long. This is a popular event being run by the Ministry of Culture and happens every end of April to early May
MAY 11-17TH International Triathlon Week The main sporting event is the triathlon however the week kicks off with Trader Jacks Boiler Swim – about 800m out from Trader Jacks and around the remains of the SS Maitai. There follows on the Saturday the main event with 2 other main events to held later in the week – the Turtles Tour de Raro cycle race and the Matutu Mile Fun Run. If you after something different and laid back then this event is for you and caters to all ages and levels of competition. For more details check out: www.rarotri.com
ESCAPE • 97
You may have seen cultural dance shows around the island, or perhaps in your resort, but you haven’t seen anything that even closely resembles the vibrancy and passion of the finals at Te Maeva Nui, held in the National Stadium. This is the cultural highlight of the Cook Islands year; the only people who are ever disappointed are those who miss it.
JULY 28TH – AUGUST 6TH
NOVEMBER
Te Maeva Nui – Celebrating our nation’s independence
Vaka Eiva
Every year from July to August about 2000 people on Rarotonga and on the outer islands put their lives on hold to prepare for Te Maeva Nui, the national culture and dance festival. It is a week-long cultural marathon held around the date of August 4th, which is the birthday of the Cook Islands as an independent nation.
See their story on page 68 or check out their website: www.vakaeiva.com
For more information and to confirm event dates, visitors are advised to contact the Visitor Information Centre – Phone (682) 29435 All dates correct at time of going to print.
Hundreds of paddlers and their supporters hit Rarotonga’s shores in November each year for the Vaka Eiva; an exciting and fun outrigger canoeing festival, which is now the largest sporting event in the country. Held annually since 2004, Vaka Eiva has established a reputation as a hugely
VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE Downtown Avarua Next to the ANZ Bank We’re here to help you! Advice on accommodation, tours, restaurants, activities, entertainment and travel to our sister islands. Phone or call in to see us.
Open: Monday to Friday 8am - 4pm Saturday 10am - 1pm Phone: (682) 29435 Email: headoffice@cookislands.gov.ck
98 • ESCAPE
enjoyable week of racing, culture, and festivities, and attracts crews from throughout the world.
Rarotonga (Head Office) P.O. Box 14, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Phone: (682) 29435 Fax: (682) 21435 headoffice@cookislands.gov.ck Aitutaki P.O. Box 3, Aitutaki Cook Islands T: (682) 31767 tourism.officer@aitutaki.net.ck Atiu T: (682) 33435 tourism@atiu.net.ck New Zealand 91 St Georges Bay Rd, Studio 11, Level 3 Parnell Auckland 1052 New Zealand T: (64) 9 366 1106 nzmanager@cookislands.travel Australia Shop 38, Niecon Plaza, Mezzanine Level, 17-19 Victoria Ave Broadbeach, QLD 4218 Australia T: (61 ) 7 5504 5488 info@cookislandstourism.travel
North America canadamanager@cookislands.travel usamanager@cookislands.travel Northern Europe europemanager@cookislands.travel Southern Europe southerneurope@cookislands.travel United Kingdom ukmanager@cookislands.travel China chinamanager@cookislands.travel Japan japanmanager@cookislands.travel
KIA ORANA! Bluesky will keep you connected while you’re on holiday.
MOBILE
INTERNATIONAL CALLING
Get talking with INTERNATIONAL CAPPED CALLING. Our one-hour capped calling rates are some of the best under the Pacific sun. For up to an hour pay $5.00 to call New Zealand and $10.00 to call Australia, Fiji, UK, USA and Canada.
Enable ROAMING on your mobile phone before you leave home. We have over 270 ROAMING partners. Go to www.bluesky.co.ck to check if your network roams in the Cook Islands.
Bluezone WiFi HOTSPOT For internet connections on the go, Check out our Bluezone Hotspots. There are over 300 Bluezone WiFi HOTSPOTS in the Cook Islands giving you easy internet access to your family, friends and Social Media.
OPEN 7 DAYS, 7am to 11pm FREE CALL us on 123 www.bluesky.co.ck Come and visit us at our main Bluesky Office in Avarua
cook islands black pearls
Cooks Corner, RAROTONGA | Pacific Resort, AITUTAKI p +682 21 902 e luke@bergmanandsons.com w www.bergmanandsons.com