Escape Magazine Issue 19 by Ultimo Group

I'M FREE

take me home

Punarei

A unique Aitutaki experience PLUS: Go Troppo On Your Wedding Day The Big Blue Lagoon, Aitutaki Te Vara Nui Village â&#x20AC;˘ A Snorkelers Dream Tua Pittman, Traditional Navigator

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One unforgettable Day “The view of the island from the plane was just spectacular.”

“I think we’d all forgotten how to relax, the cruise fixed that.”

“This tour was the highlight of our trip. We loved every minute of it.”

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“Once they found the fish the boys snorkelled for hours.”

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Aitutaki Cruising, swimming, snorkelling, relaxing over a barbequed lunch of freshly caught fish as you explore Aitutaki’s beautiful lagoon. A I R R A R O T O N G A’ S DAY T O U R I N C L U D E S : • Aitutaki island tour T H E VA K A C RU I S E • Island hopping • Delicious barbequed lunch served on-board • Complimentary towels and snorkelling equipment • Bathroom facilities • Round trip airfares from Rarotonga F RO M $459 P E R P E R S O N

contents Issue 19 • March 2014 22

Up front

Tour of the Cook Islands

Introduction

An introduction to the Cook Islands

Contributors to this issue

Rarotonga

Aitutaki (feature story)

Atiu

Southern & Northern Group Islands

Features 44 Go Troppo On Your Wedding Day A wedding can be a stressful thing. It’s no wonder then, that the easy, stress-free option of a tropical beach wedding is becoming increasingly more desirable. 50 The Big, Blue Lagoon “No artist’s palette could ever conceive of a more perfect, more luminescent turquoise than that of the lagoon of Aitutaki, arguably the most beautiful in the world.” 56 Punarei. Trapped in the Tribe Visitors to Punarei experience a unique Aitutaki cultural village and marae, weave coconut fibre baskets, and feast on island food; but above all, they go to learn of the ancient ways from Ngaa Pureariki.

Regulars 12 Art Scene A farewell exhibition by popular artist Judith Kunzle, plus a look at some inspiring jewellery art by Paul Brighouse. 16 Book Worms A review of topical authors and their books. 18 Raro Rhythm Meet Tani Mussell, Rose Akava and Lito Tagoy, who make up a really cool group called ’Island Groove’ . It’s likely that they are playing in your neighborhood this week.

62 Tua Pittman - Traditional Navigator One of the Cook Islands most respected sons tells of extraordinary voyaging by vaka throughout the Pacific using traditional navigation, and of his own personal life path.

What’s in Store? Taking a look in shop windows.

Island Cuisine We visit local restaurants and share their best recipes.

70 A Snorkelers Dream The waters of Rarotonga and Aitutaki are a snorkeler’s Mecca – safe, shallow, and rich in marine life. Rachel Reeves talks to those who just can’t wait to get back into the lagoon.

40 Village Life Memories of life growing up in an island village brought to us by well known artist and story-teller Joan Gragg.

76 Te Vara Nui Village The full Te Vara Nui experience is more than the beat of the drums and eating your fill of delicious local food. One of its greatest features is sharing the culture of the Cook Islands - where it’s people came from and how they got there, how traditions have evolved, the skills of medicine, fishing, dancing, and of course the coconut tree.

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On the Hook A column for fishermen. In this issue: Island Crayfish

Great Places to Stay A guide to some of Rarotonga’s best accommodation.

92 ‘The Bond’ Entertainment Guide The inside story on the best clubs, island shows and nightlife. 96

What’s On? A calendar of events and holidays.

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EDITOR'S Note One mans passion for discovering every detail of the lives of pre-Christian Cook Islanders, and another’s quest to re-trace the voyages of ancient Polynesian mariners, can be found in stories within this issue. See ‘Punarei’ on page 56 and ‘Tua Pittman – Traditional Navigator’ on page 62. Both men, Ngaa Pureariki and Tua Pittman, are to be truly admired for their commitment to exploring and uncovering the ways of the past. publisher South Pacific Publishing Limited, Rarotonga editor Noel Bartley design Christina Thiele | Ultimo Group Auckland, New Zealand printed in Korea Tara TPS Ltd Seoul, Korea advertising director Noel Bartley regular contributors Rachel Reeves Judith Kunzle Rachel Smith Alan Syme Florence Syme-Buchanan advertising sales rarotonga Noel Bartley Phone: (682) 23449 or 54449 Email: advertise@escape.co.ck advertising sales new zealand Phone: 09 419 6416 Email: scenix@ihug.co.nz distribution rarotonga Danny Kelly Phone: (682) 20777 or 77876 Email: kelly@oyster.net.ck distribution aitutaki Annie Bishop Phone: (682) 31009 Email: bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck Escape is published bi-annually by South Pacific Publishing Limited P.O. Box 3010, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Email: advertise@escape.co.ck All contents of ESCAPE magazine are copyright of South Pacific Publishing Limited. Any reproduction of any part of this magazine without prior written permission is strictly prohibited. front cover A warrior welcome at Punarei Cultural Village, Aitutaki. Photo: Noel Bartley.

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In this fast-paced technological world where the focus seems to be very much on the future, we are still discovering amazing things about our history. And our new fascination seems to be not so much a matter of who were our ancient ancestors, but more to do with what sort of life did they live. In this quest for knowledge both men faced enormous challenges, but the biggest hurdle for Ngaa Pureariki perhaps, was the reluctance of some Christian Cook Islanders to learn about the ways of those who ‘worshiped false idols’. Putting that feeling aside opens up a treasure trove of understanding and embellishes our Christian lives today, with the knowledge of not only who we are, but who we were. Thereby, allowing us to embrace our past with love and celebration. I hope you enjoy our 19th issue of Escape Magazine; it is chock full of good stories and loaded with lots of information. And, as always, it was a pleasure bringing it to you. Ka Kite! Noel Bartley

KIA ORANA Welcome We are delighted that you have chosen the Cook Islands for your vacation. Our fifteen islands are scattered over a vast expanse of ocean, yet our people are closely knit through community and family values, Christianity, age-old traditions and a vibrant culture. The Cook Islands are an ideal escape from today’s world of turmoil and stress, and destinations like ours are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The Kia Orana spirit is the foundation of the warmth and hospitality we offer our visitors and we hope you will have a most enjoyable stay with us. Escape Magazine will provide you with an invaluable insight into our life, through its various stories, regular columns and information about activities and attractions that our destination has to offer. You will find it an invaluable guide and well worth keeping as a souvenir of your visit, or to pass on to friends at home. We wish you a wonderful stay in our little paradise. Kia Manuia. Hon. Teina Bishop Minister of Tourism, Education, Marine Resources, Cook Islands Pearl Authority

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CONTRIBUTORS Rachel Reeves Born and raised in California, Rachel Michele Teana Reeves has Atiu roots on her father’s side. She moved to Rarotonga three years ago to get to know her Cook Islands heritage, and fell in love with the island and island life. This young and vibrant 23-year-old has a passion for writing and has also worked for Cook Islands News. Upon graduating from university, she taught English in Vietnam, Thailand and Nepal. Rachel enjoys being active – running, swimming, oe vaka, windsurfing, snowboarding – and reading. She is grateful to the people of the Cook Islands, who have welcomed her with warmth and the spirit of aloha.

Rachel Smith Rachel moved to the Cook Islands with her family two years ago, exchanging her career as a health professional for that of a freelance journalist. She has fallen in love with the beauty and relaxed lifestyle of the Cook Islands, where her days are filled with writing, swimming, helping out at Takitumu School, and looking after her children. The opportunity to travel to the outer islands of Mangaia and Mauke has been a highlight during her time here, as has watching her son learn to speak Cook Islands Maori.

Florence Syme-Buchanan Cook Islands freelance journalist Florence Syme-Buchanan has been writing about her country for many years, as correspondent for various international news agencies and publications. She now lives in Auckland with her partner Tanara Buchanan and children Te Manava and Fe'ena, after moving there last year.

Jess Cramp Jess is an American scientist, surfer, diver and writer who arrived in Rarotonga via Tahiti, after being convinced by a group of Cook Islands voyagers that their country was the best in the Pacific. She spent the past two years as volunteer Programme Manager for Rarotonga-based Pacific Islands Conservation Initiative, helping to establish the shark sanctuary and falling in love with the people, landscapes and culture of the Cook Islands. She is an energetic marine conservationist who continues to research, educate and advocate for sharks, both throughout the Pacific and back in the US. When not working, Jess can be found at reef passes, either surfing or exploring underwater. Also: Glenda Tuaine, Jean Mason, Alan Syme, Melanie Cooper, Matariki Wilson, Brie Zeman, Sabine Janneck & Sascha Schmitt of The Dive Centre, Joan Gragg and Noel Bartley.

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The Cook Islands

15 tiny islands in paradise, that a small nation calls home.

London Berlin Vancouver Rome Beijing

Seoul Tokyo Los Angeles Hong Kong Honalulu

Northern Group

Capetown

Perth

Sydney

Cook Islands Auckland

Southern Group

here would someone say, “may you live long,” upon meeting you for the first time, but in the Cook Islands.

The Cook Islands greeting Kia Orana, means exactly that, “may you live long.” It is a unique first gesture of friendship from a special Polynesian people, renown for their hospitality and warmth. It is as if God chose his 15 most precious gems, and then sprinkled them over 2.25 million sq km of the Pacific to become the Cook Islands – an ei (necklace) of islands awaiting to embrace all visitors. All the islands combined make up a land area of just 240 sq km. Each of the ‘gems’ is unlike the other and all have their own special features. From the majestic peaks of Rarotonga to the low-lying untouched coral atolls of the northern islands of Manihiki, Penrhyn, Rakahanga, Pukapuka, Nassau and Suwarrow. The latter, inhabited only by a caretaker and his family, is a popular anchorage for yachts from all over the world. The Southern Cooks is made up of the capital Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Atiu, Mangaia, Mauke, Mitiaro, Manuae, Palmerston and Takutea. Takutea is an uninhabited bird sanctuary and managed by the Atiu Island Council. Manuae is the remaining uninhabited island. Cook Islanders have their own Maori language and each of the populated islands a distinct dialect. It has a population of around

13,000. The Cooks has been self-governing in free association with New Zealand since 1965. By virtue of that unique relationship, all Cook Islanders hold New Zealand passports. The country is governed by 25-member Parliament elected by universal suffrage. The Cook Islands Parliamentary system is modelled on the Westminster system of Britain. The Queens Representative is Head of State. A House of Ariki (traditional paramount chiefs) counsels and advises government, as does the Koutu Nui, a body of traditional chiefs. This is a delightful Pacific country where the ‘metropolis’ of Rarotonga offers a wide range of activities, accommodation and cuisine and visitors can choose to be as busy as they wish. A short inter-island flight away are the less developed southern group islands each offering something different. Travelling to the isolated northern islands by inter-island flight or boat, one savours a South Pacific rarely seen by outsiders. Due to distance and infrequency of transport there are fewer visitors to the northern group islands. But wherever you turn you see bright tropical colours and movement, whether it is the sway of palms and sea in the trade winds, or dancers entertaining at one of the many nightspots found on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. While you may nearly always hear the ocean, you will always feel the warmth of the people and their tropical paradise. The Cook Islands truly is a slice of heaven.

ESCAPE • 11

art scene

A farewell to

story: Rachel Smith photos: Noel Bartley

Judith Kunzle

It was not intended to be her final art project in the Cook Islands, but for Judith Kunzle the Cook Islands Peoples Project has been perhaps the perfect way to say goodbye.

t marks the end of decades of living and drawing in the Cook Islands – work that has taken Judith to islands across the Cooks, from cruise ships to hilltops, and seen her draw the very essence of the country. “I’m leaving the day after my 27th anniversary,” Judith said, with the

next adventure to be life in Hawaii with her husband Victor Bond. It has been a long journey from her arrival in Rarotonga in 1986, working as a graphic designer for a United Nations Development Programme contract. Not ready to leave when the contract ended, Judith stayed and made the Cook Islands her home. Her years have been spent drawing, be it plants, animals and people, all of which led to her final project of drawing 222 portraits over one year. The Cook Island Peoples Project arose from Judith’s desire to interact with people living in the Cook Islands, and in doing so it became more than just a collection of images on a wall.

Above: Judith with friend Jackie Newnham

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“You collect the habits and the body language,” Judith says of the project. She describes the drawing process as creating

a feeling of respect between herself and the model, as she draws first the form of the face and then the depth of the body language. It was also an experience which involved total trust and openness from all involved, with Judith saying that the drawing of each portrait was a unique and intense moment in time. She says that at times both she and the sitter were surprised at the result, with the end picture different from what would be shown from an instant image such as a photograph. It is a process she likens to her earlier work drawing the native flora and fauna of the Cook Islands - work she undertook for the Cook Island Natural Heritage Trust during the 1990’s.

... an experience which involved total trust and openness from all involved, with Judith saying that the drawing of each portrait was a unique and intense moment in time. “I loved drawing a plant to see who that plant is,” Judith said, with her drawings done in the field rather than from collected specimens. However, it is for her drawings of Cook Islands dancers that Judith is most wellknown. With only pencils or brush and ink, Judith creates an image that contains the movement, the grace and the strength of each dancer. The drawings are alive

with movement, a skill that was learnt over years of studying the anatomy of the human body, and of sketching friend Jackie Newnham and dancers of the Ta’akoka dance group, in motion. “I had this dream where I was drawing everything at once,” Judith said, adding that the key to movement is how everything is connected. It was after 10 years of drawing dancers that Judith showed her first exhibition of dance work at the Cook Islands National Museum in 1998. Judith describes the exhibition as a great success, and one of the many highlights of her life in the Cook Islands. Judith’s drawings will remain and be admired long after she has left the Cook Islands, on the walls of homes and galleries in Rarotonga – a legacy of experiences gathered, friendships made and time well spent in these islands. We shall miss her!

Playingof the Cardlsands

Cook Is

Novel, unique and appealingly attractive, this deck of cards features 54 art works by Joan Gragg. Joan’s art is influenced by everyday life in the Cook Islands. An ideal gift or souvenir! Available from: Beachcomber Pearl Market • Bounty Bookshop • Island Craft • Island Living • Perfumes of Rarotonga • The Art Studio • The Gift Shop

See Joan’s artwork at The Furniture Centre

ESCAPE • 13

Tsavo is derived from a Maasai word sabuk (pronounced tsavok) which means river. Serengeti comes from the Maasai language, meaning "Endless Plains".

Tsavo. T

he name conjures images of mystery, masculinity, strength. So a new range of jewellery that is destined to take men’s fashion jewellery to a new level has been well named by master goldsmith Paul Brighouse. This range of masculine, intensely precise jewellery needs a strong name, so Tsavo is very apt. Brighouse came up with the idea for the men’s range three years ago, inspired by his surroundings while working at Bergman & Sons as the resident goldsmith. “There were people wood carving, shell carving, painting…it was a really neat place to work. It was good working for Bergman’s because I had the freedom to create and the scope, plus they liked creativity.” After almost eight years in Rarotonga, “a hard place to get out of your system” Brighouse understandably has been heavily influenced by Cook Islands culture. This is evident in the striking Polynesian influences he has incorporated in the powerful Pacifika line of men’s rings.

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Polynesian motifs, spearheads and ancient god figures all in precise minute detail, exactly fitted into the individual titanium and gold layers of each ring. Then each individual section is riveted together forming the unique layered look of the rings. The rings almost resemble incredibly beautiful pieces of tiny machinery. Something Brighouse rightly imagined men would want to wear. What Brighouse is doing is exceptional. Search online and you won’t find anyone applying the same ideas or craftsmanship to create such outstanding individual men’s rings. And it’s for that exact reason this master goldsmith chose to work with titanium and gold – unlike gold, titanium is an extremely hard, light metal and cannot be soldered. The Serengeti line sings contemporary, masculine elegance. In this line, the tiny Polynesian designs are replaced by gently winking cinnamon diamonds especially chosen for their subtle colour. Boldly nestling between each individual gold and titanium layer, the effect is understated, superbly classy. Rugged, yet perfect.

“I just wanted to come up with a range of gent’s jewellery that was different, so the owner would feel he was wearing something unique.” At the time of going to print, Brighouse was completing rings for both Tsavo lines, including cufflinks. Brighouse is thinking of also including men’s bracelets and tie pins in the Tsavo collection. There will be two launches for this outstanding men’s collection -- the first at leading New Zealand men’s fashion store RJB in Britomart and then of course, in Rarotonga mid 2014. Brighouse who has been making exquisite jewellery for over 35 years says: “Design, unlike manufacture, is a gift that we are born with and these abilities develop with us as we grow. Design ideas change over time, influenced by life’s experiences and it is these influences that lead to the striking pieces of the Tsavo collection.” Ah...Tsavo. Bravo!

Island Memories

forever

Happiness

Love

Faithfulness

Monday - Friday 9am - 4pm | Saturday 9am - 12pm Main Road, Taputaputea | Phone. +682 21939 | Email. lukeb@oyster.net.ck ESCAPE â&#x20AC;˘ 15

book worms

book relates how Christianity was spread through parts of the Pacific, including some of the Cook Islands (where the author served as a London Missionary Society minister for 15 years, 1845-1860), Niue and New Caledonia. It tells of the privations and other difficulties the missionaries endured, their sufferings (and that of some of the wives who accompanied them), but mostly about their dedication to their main perceived task.

Gems of the Coral Islands (first published in 1856) Rev. William Gill

It is a read best suited to scholars of Pacific history and for those with an interest in Pacific cultures of the past. There are also some illustrations which help add interest. But it holds most interest because it gives a view into the lives of Cook Islanders a long time ago. The first edition of this book is dated 1856, with several reprints; the most recent one in 2001.

This book depicts some of the first European missionary encounters with the local populace of some of the islands of the Pacific Ocean. At this time in the early 1800’s, resident populations already had their own systems of belief and hierarchies which included worshiping of idols. Tribal conflict and cannibalism occurred. There was also a chieftainship role in place which was acknowledged and adhered to by the local population, providing rules on matters including the use of land. The main force which drove these newcomers was the message of their religion, Christianity, which they were determined to deliver in the face of many obstacles. One of the main difficulties was the unwillingness of the local people to accept this new belief system. Going from island to island, enlisting the help of a few converted locals, this

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One of the many delightful illustrations in this book.

Reprinted editions are available for sale from the Cook Islands Library & Museum Society at Taputapuatea in Rarotonga. Book reviewed by Luina Lynch, secretary of Library & Museum Society council.

Sonja’s Kitchen Dee Pignéguy & Sonja Raela We all know that diet is one of the most important issues to address for sustained health and wellness. Simply put, eating more fruit and vegetables is one of the best things you and your family can do. Beautifully presented with photographs from the island of Aitutaki, the tasty recipes in this book are based on ingredients available in your garden, or most supermarkets and fresh food stalls. These delectable dishes can be made in your own kitchen with very little effort and great nutritional reward for everyone. Most of the recipes use food with minimal processing. The tasty recipes include an array of herbs and vegetables that can be grown in an organic backyard, together with readily available tropical fruits and vegetables such as bananas, mangoes, papaya, taro, breadfruit and cassava. Foodie or Greenie, Sonja’s Kitchen will take you on an adventure to explore the delicious food of Aitutaki and the Cook Islands. Available from Bounty Bookshop

TivaevaeCollectables.com Traditional Pacific Fabric Art for your home

Rarotonga & Aitutaki Noel Bartley One of the largest and perhaps the most comprehensive collections of Cook Islands photography has been built up over two decades by publisher and photographer Noel Bartley.

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Recently Noel, who also publishes award winning Escape Magazine, produced two new pictorial books, one entitled Rarotonga, the other Aitutaki, using some of the stunning images from his vast collection.

For quality tivaevae bedcovers, duvets, cushion covers, baby cot covers, table cloths, place mats, jewellery, hula dolls, handbags and more. Look for our sign west of the airport - opposite the Weather Station in Nikao.

Beautiful photographs leap out from every one of the 100 pages of each book, providing wonderful imagery of both Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Noel has captured well the country’s two most popular visitor destinations, the people, culture, and island life. Escape Magazine’s main contributing writer Florence SymeBuchanan provides an informative introduction to each book.

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These books rank amongst the best now available in terms of photographic quality. Retailing at around $39.90 they would also be the best in terms of value for money and certainly make wonderful souvenirs of the islands. Both titles are on sale at most retailers including CITC, Bounty Bookshop, Island Craft, Treasure Chest stores, Island Style, Beachcomber, Perfumes of Rarotonga and at some resorts. aitutak

Aitutaki

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ESCAPE • 17

raro rhythm

The smooth sounds of Island Groove story: Glenda Tuaine

Here is the age old story of a young lad who tells his mother that he will be following his dreams to become a professional musician. The mothers reaction is the same as many a mother around the world; she does her best to talk him out of it!

uch is the story of Cook Islands musician and sound engineer Tani Mussell, who at 16 years old stuck to his guns and set off to play music with local bands in Rarotonga. From his first gig with the Teiti Brothers, known as the T-Bones, at a bar called Terry’s Bar (which no longer exists here in Rarotonga), to today, Tani Mussell has proven to his Mother that he did have the talent and the determination to forge a career in music. Tani reminisces “I was still in school when I set out with the T-Bones. I remember

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I would get an ear bashing from the teachers at school – ‘What are you doing?’ they would say; but I carried on until the T-Bones broke up. Then Katu Teiti and I did the resorts and hotels for a number of years.“ During this time an all girl band had emerged in Rarotonga called Always; the Cook Islands answer to the rise of the Spice Girls. Talented performers with great singing voices, the girls were a popular success story in the Cook Islands, with Rose Akava as part of the line up. Tani

became the guy behind the scenes for them, recording all their music and helping with live shows. When Always disbanded Rose and Tani combined forces to form a much sort after duo and started working at the Waterline, Palm Grove and The Point. Tani adds “We were in our 20’s and built up our repertoire as a duo by tossing things around. Rose has the higher range, I have the lower, so we started to put our own take on the covers we were doing, stepping away from the original and putting our own take on it. Plus adding some of our character to the songs and our

... his band is dynamic and adaptable, with a vibe that is deemed modern island style, R&B fusion of reggae. performance; we like to have a laugh in our shows and we found that the audience loves that too”. Add on the introduction three years ago of bass player Lito Tagoy and Island Groove had arrived. “When Lito our bass player joined, that really gave us the chance to flesh out our style. How we wanted things to sound, slowly moving away from backing tracks so a song just breathes better” adds Tani.

When asked what their style of music is? Tani let me know that his band is dynamic and adaptable, with a vibe that is deemed modern island style, R&B fusion of reggae. They keep in their own defined groove by making breaks and adding in island percussion, lyrics and style that incorporates Rarotongan rhythms and words. Their performance, and soon to be released EP, has that definite Raro flavour. Tani lights up when talking about an up and coming tour of New Zealand and new EP release set for the beginning of 2014. “The new songs are a really good showcase of us. Our shows are about fun as it shows our character. Our new songs, like my favourite ‘Welcome to Paradise’, have all been written together. Our market is everyone, but we know that tourists to Rarotonga are our audience most nights, so we make sure we give them a show that is entertaining and accessible.”

E x pe r

nuia .ma w w

i e n ce t h

Playing five nights a week, don’t miss Island Groove. I strongly recommend them for an enjoyable night out in Rarotonga. You will become a fan, and who knows they may just end up touring to your home town in the future.

Gig Schedule Monday: Kikau Hut Restaurant, Tel: 26860 Tuesday: The Anchorage Restaurant & Bar, Tel: 23004 Wednesday: Waterline Beach Bar & Restaurant, Tel: 22161 Thursday: Crown Beach Resort, Tel: 23953 Friday: Palm Grove, Tel: 20002 Saturday: Weddings usually

e magic of a true Polynesi

dise a r a p an

….

.co.ck

Manuia BEACH RESORT

For enquiries phone: +(682) 22461 ESCAPE • 19 Or email: rooms@manuia.co.ck

what's in store Polynesian wedding bands at Beachcomber Pearl Market – uptown Avarua. Fall in love with this romantic range of island inspired motif wedding bands. Choose from Love, Happiness and Faithfulness. Available in both yellow and white gold.

Look for Ade’s Threads when you visit Aitutaki. Her shop is close to the entrance to Pacific Resort. Ade makes a great, colourful range of hats, bags and clothing for all ages.

Ladies - for the best in stylish island fashion and a great range of beach wear, check out the latest on offer from international and local designers at id.CK – identity cook islands. Located in the Banana Court, near the information centre.

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Discover the great range of Te Tika skin care products at CITC Pharmacy Avarua. These widely acclaimed skin-regenerating beauty products are made using native Cook Islands plants. Also available from CITC Duty Free at the International Airport.

A selection of mouth-watering salads, made to your specific order by the friendly staff of Oasis Hydroponics, can be found at Punanga Nui marketplace on Saturday mornings. Just the thing for that weekend barbeque!

Imagine the skill and patience required to handcarve an individual black pearl. Then consider the intricacies of the design on something so small. Unique in every way, a small range is available from Tokerau Jim. You’ll find him on the main road at Matavera, or at Punanga Nui marketplace on Saturdays.

See our article on page 80 for the real low-down on Atiu coffee. Once you’ve read the story you’ll want to take home a pack to make a delicious Cook Islands brew for you and your friends. Available at most stores and supermarkets.

Beware when buying black pearls… When shopping for Cook Islands black pearls, always ask the sales assistant if the pearls are genuine Cook Islands pearls. Ensure that you are given a certificate of authenticity (with the name of the retail outlet you purchased from) guaranteeing exactly what you have been told you are buying. Be advised that there are other pearls on the market that look like authentic Cook Islands black pearls, but are not.

ESCAPE • 21

RAROTONGA

south pacific fun

a smorgasbord of

There are few places in the world that equal this special emerald island in the Pacific - the largest of the Cook Islands. A place where a visit is certain to capture the heart. And upon reluctant departure, will generously add to a lifetime of good memories. 22 â&#x20AC;˘ ESCAPE

his is Rarotonga, named Tumutevarovaro by the first Polynesian settlers over a thousand years ago, who composed chants and songs in praise of her natural splendor. Those ancient Maori people who navigated the Pacific in their ocean voyaging doublehulled canoes would have relished her fertile abundance and delighted in her safe anchorages and plentiful water. The beauty of Rarotonga is still awesome. Especially when viewed from the air on an Air Rarotonga aircraft. Or, from beyond the reef aboard one of several deep sea fishing boats available for charter, where you can behold the mountains rising majestically from the centre of the island, piercing blue skies and passing clouds. From these cloud mountains, the early Polynesian settlers believed Rongo, the goddess of the land lived and watched over them as they fished, planted and lived a simple, but rich life.

From these cloud mountains, the early Polynesian settlers believed Rongo, the goddess of the land lived and watched over them as they fished, planted and lived a simple, but rich life.

There’s also a breathtaking view of Rarotonga from the ‘Needle” if you take the “cross island” walk which starts from Avatiu Valley. From this point you can see the necklace of white surf that forever pounds the reef enclosing this volcanic island. The cross-island walk is best done with a guide and does require some effort, so being of average fitness will help as will sturdy footwear. Guided sightseeing walks and learning about the island’s flora and fauna can be booked through your hotel or travel agent. Less strenuous than going across the island is the informative scenic walk offered by guides of the Takitumu Conservation Area (TCA). Covering 380 acres, the TCA is home to the indigenous Kakerori, (Rarotongan Flycatcher). Once on the critically endangered list, this tiny bird is now thriving well, thanks to the efforts of environmentalists and the TCA group to save the bird from extinction.

ESCAPE • 23

The largest of the 15 Cook Islands, it is 32 km around its main coastal road. An inland road and various tracks will further reveal a palette of dazzling tropical colours equaled by few other places. Rarotonga is lush and carpeted with plantations that yield year-round fruits and vegetables. The largest of the 15 Cook Islands, it is 32 km around its main coastal road. An inland road and various tracks will further reveal a palette of dazzling tropical colours equaled by few other places. Like other islands in the group, Rarotonga’s white beaches with sand as fine as powder stretch into clear blue lagoons around the island. Lagoons where children safely play are food cupboards for the local people, who live an unhurried lifestyle in a unique, unspoiled place in the Pacific.

24 • ESCAPE

Traditional Voyaging According to ancient mythology, Rarotonga was settled over a thousand years ago by Polynesians from an ancient land called Avaiki. They travelled in massive double-hulled ocean voyaging canoes, crisscrossing Te Moana Nui O Kiva (Pacific Ocean) in search of fertile, sheltered land. That traditional voyaging, navigating by the stars, has been revived in the Cook Islands and two traditional ocean going vaka built in the early 1990’s have notched up thousands of nautical miles, travelling as far as Hawaii, New Caledonia and New Zealand. The vaka, Te Au O Tonga and Takitumu can be viewed at Vaka Village in Avana, Ngatangiia.

Avana channel is also the site where seven canoes Takitumu, Kurahaupo, Tokomaru, Aotea, Tainui, Mataatua and Te Arawa, departed Rarotonga for New Zealand over 700 years ago. A circle of stones and plaques bearing the name of each canoe commemorates that great voyage.

Shopping The capital of Rarotonga is Avarua and many shops offer a wide selection of goods and souvenirs. Possibly the best souvenir of the Cook Islands is a black pearl from the northern islands of Manihiki or Penrhyn. The Cook Islands is the second biggest producer of black pearls in the world. Punanga Nui Marketplace on Saturday mornings is busy and colourful – stalls and small huts selling souvenirs, food and clothing. The market is the best place to buy a pareu (sarong) and handmade pearl shell jewellery, or to try some of the local

www.perfumes.co.ck

Water Sports

Punanga Nui Marketplace on Saturday mornings is busy and colourful – stalls and small huts selling souvenirs, food and clothing.

With clear blue lagoons and a huge ocean at its doorstep, there is a good range of water sports to suit all ages. You can choose from skimming the lagoon on a windsurfer, kayaking, lagoon boat trips, scuba diving, deep-sea fishing, reef watching in a glass bottom ‘submarine’, or just swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing. One of the best spots to snorkel is in Tikioki opposite the Fruits of Rarotonga Café where Mama Puretu makes delicious smoothies from local fresh fruit. A raui, (a traditional ban on fishing and the gathering of seafood) protects the Tikioki lagoon, so it teems with fish and other marine life. Raui are also in place on other parts of Rarotonga’s lagoon coastline and these areas generally offer the best snorkelling. Look for the Raui signs around the island, but please protect our marine environment – take nothing but memories and leave nothing but bubbles. Because Rarotonga is surrounded by clear waters, the visibility when scuba diving is excellent. All dive operators offer lessons for beginners in the safety of the lagoon before venturing out over the reef. Both Koka Lagoon Cruises and Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes operate from Muri Lagoon, next to Rarotonga Sailing Club, offering visitors lagoon tours in glass bottom boats with loads of fun exploring the lagoon plus swimming, snorkeling, sunbathing and a barbeque lunch. Outrigger canoeing teams train on Muri lagoon and at Avarua wharf. Watching the teams powering through the water in their six-man or single outrigger canoes is stirring. The annual canoeing festival, Te Vaka Eiva, is held every November with teams from all over the Pacific travelling to Rarotonga to race.

A fActory visit not to be missed!

“Experience our exotic local Oils, Perfumes, Soaps and Liqueurs and meet the people that make them.” on the Main road before the airPort! ph–25238

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delicacies. It is a lively meeting place for hundreds of locals each Saturday morning. There’s often a live show by dance teams, or a local string band.

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Beach

ESCAPE designers • 25 international & local

banana court – Phone: 25060

Sports

Nightlife

Cook Islanders love their sports, with rugby and netball the top favourites. More often than not, a local will play several different sports during the year and be good at all of them. Saturday sees keen inter-village rugby, netball, cricket, tennis, soccer and rugby league games, depending on the season. Spectators are welcome, as is participation in after-match socials at village clubhouses. Entry fee and drinks are cheap, the atmosphere is always lively, especially if teams are putting on a small show with lots of humour. The Rarotonga Bowling Club in town has matches most Saturdays and a bar to relax in after games. The Rarotonga Golf Club welcomes visitors to its 9-hole course at Black Rock and offers clubs and trundlers for hire.

There’s always lots to do in the evenings. Island nights staged by local hotels feature buffets of local food cooked in an umu or earth oven. Entertainment is provided by one of the islands’ professional dance groups and you are guaranteed a vibrant, sensual show and drumming that’s recognised as the best in the world - see our Entertainment Guide for more information. Guided night tours by bus to well-known establishments like the Banana Court, Trader Jacks and Whatever! Bar after the island show is also fun and there’s also the comfort of knowing one doesn’t have to drive home after several bar stops.

Lowest Prices ed! Gua ra nte 15

PHONE 22632 | enquiries@islandcarhire.co.ck | www.islandcarhire.co.ck

26 • ESCAPE

Rarotonga has numerous excellent restaurants that serve tempting food from around the world. One could eat out every night of the week and still not experience all the great food that’s available. The Tamarind House Restaurant in Pue (just out of Avarua) is a beautifully converted colonial house that once belonged to the Union Steamship Company. Situated close to the beach, the Tamarind looks over the ocean and meals can be taken in the garden under the stars. See our cuisine section for the pick of Rarotonga restaurants. Takeaway meals also are available from outlets all around the island and excellent fish n’ chips are served up by the Flying

Boat Grill located at the Cook Islands Game Fishing Club. Visitors are always welcome to join the locals at the club for a drink or a meal. The location of Aramoana Takeaways at Avatiu Wharf ensures that their fish is always freshly caught by local fishermen. Rarotonga has a three-cinema complex with air conditioning, a big screen and surround-sound in Cinema 3. A good selection of recent movies is shown. For those wanting a quiet night in, there are several local video and DVD outlets, all with a comprehensive selection of classics and latest releases. Some outlets also hire TV’s and DVD players.

ESCAPE • 27

Come in to view our extensive range of sarongs, island clothing, footwear and t-shirts. Rarotonga’s largest selection of souvenirs, crafts and gift ideas.

formally declared a whale sanctuary. The Whale Centre in Nikao is an interesting place to visit, to find out more about these magnificent ocean creatures. Two libraries and museums just out of town are great for browsing. On the way to the “old library and museum” you’ll pass the Avarua Christian Church. The adjacent graveyard is interesting to wander through and of note is the bust of the late Albert Royale Henry, the first Cook Islands premier who was instrumental in guiding the country towards self-government in 1964.

Sunday Mana Court, Avarua | Ph: 22325 Rarotongan Resort | Ph: 27325 Edgewater Resort | Ph: 28325 Pacific Village Muri | Ph: 21325

treasure@oyster.net.ck 28 • ESCAPE

After a busy Saturday night, relax on Sunday like the locals. Sunday is regarded as a day of worship and rest. A wonderful memory to take home is the singing in one of the islands’ Cook Islands Christian Churches. CICC coral limestone churches, hand built by the forefathers of Cook Islanders, are in every village and visitors are warmly welcomed to Sunday services. Morning tea is provided by the congregations.

Weddings Rarotonga has become a popular location for weddings and honeymoons. Wedding packages designed to suit each couples taste and budget are available from a number of operators on the island. The golden beach of uninhabited Koromiri islet in Muri lagoon is one of the most popular locations for weddings. Young coconut saplings planted by each newly wed couple line the beach and are testimony to the islet’s popularity.

Relax In the Cook Islands you’ll hear the phrase “island time” a lot. You are a long way from the hustle and bustle of the outside world, so…walk a little slower, savour every moment of your holiday in paradise and don’t worry about being a bit late for engagements. That is island time on Rarotonga.

Government Accredited Retailers Moana Gems The Pearl Lounge Paka’s Pearls

On the waterfront at Avana Harbour

The Café in a Container!

Tropical Garden Restaurant and Bar

The original fresh fish sandwiches & salads, all with homemade dressings & pickles, cooked to perfection right on the waterfront. The tasty & healthy option! Mon to Fri: 10.00 to 3.30 Sun: 12.00 to 4.00 Sat: Closed

You’ll find us in a unique island setting in Arorangi, just 70 metres from Edgewater Resort. Open 7 nights from 6pm. Taste and feel what the islands are all about in a casual dining atmosphere! • • • •

full a-la-carte menu fresh fish and quality steaks vegetarian and children’s dishes incredible seafood platter for two

reservations recommend

ph 20501

Phone 25553 take-outs available Find us on Facebook

ESCAPE • 29

island cuisine

The Rickshaw Just last year, The Rickshaw introduced a new flavour to the Muri area – Vietnamese fusion – and a new menu that appeals to the traveler with international taste. From the moment it opened, Rickshaw had a reputation. It was riding on the success of its owners, Sue Carruthers and husband Robert, who also own and operate Tamarind House in Tupapa, which is one of Rarotonga’s most beloved restaurants. Just as an aside, US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton was on Rarotonga for two days and dined at Tamarind twice. That being said, before it even opened, Rarotonga’s foodie community had high

expectations for Rickshaw. And, judging by local chatter and TripAdvisor reviews, the fledgling restaurant is living up to them. On most nights, Rickshaw is crowded, and reservations are strongly encouraged. My cousin and I were pleased, then, that Rickshaw was fairly quiet when we treated our grandmother to an evening meal. She prefers eating at home and rarely goes out to eat, but throughout the meal would repeat variations of the phrase “This is really very nice”. We started with a bottle of red wine and fried dumplings, a crispy and appetizing indulgence. I also ordered a papaya salad – one of my favourite foods, something for which I developed an addiction whilst I was in Thailand teaching English. And though

BAKERY

& CAFE

GREAT COFFEE GOURMET DELI FOODS SPECIALTY FINE WINES FRESH BAKED BREADS

& SWEET TREATS

WEDDING & CELEBRATION CAKES

CATERING

OPEN DAILY AT 2 LOCATIONS

MURI VILLAGE P: 28619

UPTOWN AVARUA P: 27619

30 • ESCAPE

• Fully licensed • Open 7 nights for dinner from 6pm • Gluten free, vegetarian & children catered for • Live music some nights • Reservations appreciated • Transfers by arrangement Kevin, Cathy & staff welcome you Phone: +682 26860 Email: kikauhut@oyster.net.ck Situated on the main road at Arorangi (500 mtrs from Edgewater Resort – towards town)

R E S TA U R A N T

Casual and friendly Asian street-style café Vietnamese, Indonesian, Chinese, Malaysian, Thai.

Muri Village Phone: 22232 or 75449

this dish was served at a restaurant thousands of miles from its Asian source, it was thoroughly enjoyable, the right combination of sweet, tangy, and sinusclearing spicy. For a main dish, I ordered the Vietnamese ginger fish, a flaky filet drizzled with oyster sauce and sautéed in fresh ginger. My cousin ordered the fish curry with rice – flavourful cubes of fish tossed in a mild coconut cream curry – and my grandmother ordered the chicken stir-fry. We were all thoroughly contented by our meal, and decided The Rickshaw had eased the pain of losing Stefanos – a popular Italian restaurant that once inhabited this space in Muri but closed down when its owners moved back to Italy. The Rickshaw retains Stefanos’ quaint charm, illuminated by candles and fairy lights, except that now it’s decorated with statues of Buddha and paper lanterns – a nice touch that matches its fusion menu. A winding path leads into the restaurant, its

seating on a small patio with a pagodalike covering. This is a tranquil space, devoted to the enjoyment of an evening out with family or good friends and delicious food. And isn’t that what every restaurant should be? RR

Located on the main road at Muri Village and open for dinner Monday to Saturday from 5.30pm. Reservations are recommended. Tel. 22232 or 75449

Muri Village Fresh flavours of Mexico, plus fresh fish, steaks, pizza and vegan food. See you there amigo! Phone 20693

ESCAPE • 31

Restaurant On the beachfrOnt at Muri LagOOn

Tamanu Beach OPen 7 DaYS 8am till late Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Dinner Reservations Recommended Happy Hour Cocktails 4pm Mon - Sat Saturdays – Sailing Regatta Day Wireless Internet Available Beachfront Bar

WeDDIngS & PRIvAte FunCtIonS A SPeCIALty Consult with our Personal Wedding Planner. info@theweddingguys.co.ck dine@sailsrestaurant.co.ck

PHone • 27349 www.sailsrestaurant.co.ck www.theweddingguys.co.ck 32 • ESCAPE

Aitutaki

Even someone with a below-average memory like mine doesn’t easily forget an exceptional dining experience. Sometimes, everything just goes right. Our dinner at Tamanu Beach Resort in Aitutaki ticked all the boxes. It was a beautiful, temperate evening, and we were seated on a table nearest the beach, close enough to hear the waves foaming at the shore. I was with three of my cousins, and we’d just enjoyed the perfect kind of Aitutaki day, spent swimming and sunbathing and being regaled with tales of ancient Aitutaki at Punarei Cultural Village. We were sunburnt and hungry, and dressed in our evening best when we arrived at Tamanu, where a waitress offered a big smile, pulled out our chairs, and handed us napkins for our laps. This was the first of many times throughout the meal we would raise our eyebrows in pleasant surprise at the level of customer service. As for our food, it was mouthwatering. Chef Massey lived up to his reputation. We started with traditional ika mata, or raw fish and vegetables marinated in coconut cream, and delectably crispy “island fries” – an assortment of taro, breadfruit, and banana fried into chunky chips.

One of my cousins ordered a steak, noting with skepticism, after he ordered and our waitress left, that it’s “hard to find a really good steak in the islands”. But after he finished, wiped his mouth, and pushed his chair away from the table, he declared that it had been “the best”. Another cousin ordered the “beef and reef” – Tamanu’s version of surf and turf, made up of an impressive stack of precariously balanced protein. The garlic prawns were succulent and the steak, juicy and rare. The meal came served with sautéed mushrooms, whipped potato, and slathered with a red wine jus. My third guest ordered New Zealand lamb loin, richly doused with minted jus and served with roasted potatoes and vegetables. And I had the Cajun tuna, seared to perfection and overlaid with a warm vegetable-and-feta-cheese salad and homemade tomato chutney. We were thoroughly stuffed and satisfied, but attacked our dessert – a sinful mocha cheesecake with French vanilla ice cream – with vigor. We could scarcely walk as we left the table, but we looked at each other and silently agreed: It was so worth it. RR The restaurant at Tamanu Beach Resort is open seven days a week. On Sundays it serves a Sunday Roast. Thursdays feature an Island Night and Fire Dance show. Tel. 31810 www.tamanubeach.com

Silver Sands Restaurant & Bar

at Muri Beach Club Hotel It is rare that a dining experience can completely change your opinion of a meal. What I expected of a meal of pork ribs was very different from the dinner I had at Silver Sands Restaurant and Bar, at Muri Beach Club Hotel – the delicious and mouth-watering ribs blew me away and changed my opinion forever. Friday is Pig and Prawn night at Silver Sands, and one of three special cuisine nights that they offer, alongside their a la carte menu ‘A Taste of Polynesia.’ We chose to eat at one of their pool side tables within ears reach of the sultry tones of singer Leilani Happ, and where we could see, hear and smell the action from the open restaurant. I was warned when ordering that the serving size of the large pork ribs platter was just that, large. The ribs, which I shared with my partner, came out piled high on the plate. They smelt fantastic and

tasted even better, the meat succulent and falling off the bone. Silver Sands has an extensive wine menu, but I chose to wash my ribs down with the fresh taste of an Isaac’s cider from the Macs range. As for the prawns, the grilled giant prawns were delivered sizzling to the table, and lightly spiced with our choice of peri-peri flavouring. Again the platter size was more than enough and the prawns simply delicious. The menu also includes snacks and sides, with an emphasis on flavours from across Polynesia. We chose a tossed green salad and tasty island fries with aioli to go with our pig and prawns, with the salad providing a great balance to the meal. It was difficult to squeeze it in but well worth leaving room for dessert, coconut cream pie made Fijian style. The coconut

was freshly grated and moist, and the shared piece of pie disappeared fast. Lastly and importantly, the service at Silver Sands was great with friendly faces that were only too happy to help, and packaged up the last of my ribs to take home – a tasty reminder the next day of a very enjoyable dining experience. RS

Silver Sands Restaurant and Bar at Muri Beach Club Hotel is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Specialty dinners: Big Beach Barbeque on Sunday, Polynesian Seafood Buffet on Wednesday and Pig & Prawn on Friday. Tel 23000 for reservations. www.muribeachclubhotel.com

Happy hour everyday 4pm - 6pm Each evening we have live music and the following theme nights: Monday - A la carte - Nooroa on Ukelele Tuesday - A la carte - by Island Tunes of Ephraima Wednesday - Island Night Extravaganza by Akirata Performing Arts Troupe Thursday - A la carte - Cathy on Piano Friday - Pig & Prawn Night - Soulful Sounds of Leilani Saturday - A la carte - Surround Sounds Sunday - BBQ Grill Night - Old Classics by Papa Jake

Open Everyday Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Ph: 23000 for reservations Located at Muri Beach Club Hotel ESCAPE • 33

THE

Vaima Restaurant

MURI, RAROTONGA

If you don’t over-indulge at least once during your holiday, you haven’t done it right. At least that’s what we told ourselves as we waddled away from Vaima Restaurant, thoroughly fulfilled after a lovely evening spent enjoying good food, good wine, and laughing with good friends on the beach, under a canopy of stars.

Flame Tree

R E S TAU R A N T

OPEN 7 DAYS FROM 5PM

A relaxed fine dining experience for adults and mature children, featuring EuropeanPacific fusion cuisine, with ‘little people’ menu available.

+682 25 123 www.flamerestaurant.com

34 • ESCAPE

Vaima is popular among locals, and for good reason. Half of Vaima’s seating is outdoors, on the sand, amongst the purau (hibiscus) and ara (pandanus) trees. We sat outside, our table illuminated by the moon and lights strung between the trees, and as we settled in, we listened to the sound of waves lapping gently at the shore. It was a Saturday night and the restaurant was packed, but our waitress appeared immediately and remained attentive throughout the meal. Four of us shared a bottle of red wine and an appetizer of fried, salt-and-pepper squid, and reflected on the beauty of a Rarotonga evening as we settled on our orders. I’d invited three other friends to dinner, mostly because I wanted to taste four separate dishes. I’d come prepared. I was hungry. Vaima has a relatively limited menu, but what the chef and kitchen staff prepare, they do exceptionally well. One friend ordered the pasta with chicken, rich in a white cream-based sauce. Another had the pork belly, which was deliciously crispy and bursting with flavour, served alongside applesauce, potatoes with gravy, and buttered local vegetables.

Another friend had the lamb loin in an orange glaze, with a side of minty mashed potatoes and vegetables. Having been to Vaima before, and being a creature of habit who knows what she likes, I ordered the catch of the day – a perfectly flaky mahi mahi filet, grilled and topped with a sweet salsa of pawpaw, coriander, lime, and chili. My meal came with potatoes and local vegetables, freshly sliced and lightly stir-fried. We were thoroughly satisfied after our mains, but we still, of course, accepted the dessert menu our waitress offered. Our limited capacity to consume anything else meant we all split a creamy vanilla crème brulee with pawpaw, and an order of petit fours – which consisted of one small portion each of key lime pie, chocolate cake with chocolate sauce and ice cream, a delectable coconut cheesecake, and a sweet and airy pavlova with cream. Vaima’s name derives from its location – in Vaima’anga, a district in Titikaveka on the southeast side of Rarotonga. It was purchased in 2010 by Scottish couple Cameron and Dorothy Robertson – their hospitality experience in Rarotonga includes stints at Ati’s Beach Bungalows, Castaway Restaurant, and Aquarius. Vaima continues to uphold its reputation as a must-try restaurant on Rarotonga. RR

Vaima Restaurant is open 7 nights for dinner from 6pm - reservations are recommended. Transfers are available. Tel. 26123. A licensed bar is open from 5pm. Weddings, private functions, parties, hens/stag nights and other special occasions are catered for.

POlynesian RestauRant & BaR

TAMARIND HOUSE RESTAURANT & BAR

the little Restaurant with the Big Reputation!

Indoor & Outdoor Dining in an Authentic Island Setting Extensive Menu with a Touch of Tropical Flavours Weddings, Birthdays, Special Occasions Licensed Bar | Open 7 Nights a week from 6pm | Transfers Available Situated right on the beach in Vaimaanga! Reservations Recommended.

Ph 26123 | www.vaimarestaurant.com

offee C t a e r G ervice S t a e r G ensed c i L y l l Fu Creative cuisine at affordable prices. Delicious wood-fired pizzas & bread. Roasted Addiqtion Coffee.

Phone for reservations

cafĂŠ@salsa.co.ck www.salsa.co.ck

Come and enjoy morning coffee or lunch overlooking palm-shaded lawns and the ocean. Dine with piano by candlelight in the peaceful seclusion of a romantic tropical setting. Experience a feeling of nostalgia for a bygone era in our unique and beautiful century-old colonial home. the peRfect venue foR youR wedding oR pRivate function

Breakfast Brunch & Lunch Mon to Sat from 7.30am Dinner with Live Entertainment Friday evenings (seasonal)

Phone: 22215

Tamarind house is a beautiful heritage colonial house, located on the seafront, just 3 minutes from the town centre.

In the centre of town next to CITC

LUNCH - THURSDAY & FRIDAY DINNER - MONDAY TO SATURDAY

ReseRvations aRe Recommended email tamarind@cookislands.co.ck weB www.tamarind.co.ck

PHONE 26487

local recipe

Combine the remaining ingredients and mix well with the cooled rice.

Garlic Prawns in Lemon Butter with Tomato and Basil Arancini (risotto balls) Serves 5

Our special thanks to owner and chef Tony Bullivant of The Sands Restaurant & Bar for providing this easy to prepare recipe. Its novelty value - when the mozzarella oozes out of the arancini - and good looks are sure to impress your dinner guests.

Risotto

Prawns

Ingredients

Risotto rice x 200 grms

Prawn cutlets large x 20

Herb stock x 550 ml

Chopped garlic x 1 tablespoon

Tomato paste x 2 tablespoons

Chili powder x half teaspoon (optional)

Egg yolk x 1

Olive oil x 3 tablespoons

Grated Parmesan cheese x 50 grms

Juice of 2 lemons

Chopped basil x half a cup

Lemon zest x 2 teaspoons

Mozzarella cheese x 100 grms

Butter x 100 grm

With slightly wet hands mould the rice mixture into 4 even balls, pressing one block of mozzarella into the center of each ball, ensuring the mozzarella is coated completely by the risotto. Crumb and set to one side. Deep fry the arancini until golden brown and place in a pre heated medium temperature oven for 5 to 10 minutes. Place a heavy bottom frying pan over a high heat until hot and add the olive oil, prawn cutlets, garlic, chili powder and salt and pepper to taste. Saute the prawns until almost cooked then remove from the pan and set aside. Now add the lemon juice and zest and reduce by half. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool for a couple of minutes. Then add the soft butter and prawns stirring the butter until melted.

Salt and pepper to taste

For crumbing Ingredients Plain flour x 1 cup

Method Cook the risotto rice over a slow heat, gradually adding the stock until cooked. Lay out on a tray and allow to cool to room temperature.

Beaten eggs x 2 Breadcrumbs x 2 cups

36 â&#x20AC;˘ ESCAPE

Cut the mozzarella into 4 even blocks and set to one side.

Sit the arancini in the center of the plate and arrange the prawns around the outside. Spoon over the sauce and serve. The Sands Restaurant & Bar - location Titikaveka Open 7 days for breakfast and dinner tel: 27189 | rarosands@gmail.com

Sunset ’s BarBBQ eachside Inn

Beachfront Mini Resort On the western leeward side of Rarotonga

at Aro’a

“The Sands... bringing great food and people together”

Seafood | Kati Kati | Great local food & cocktails with live local entertainment twice a week. Pub meals also available Reservations required

Phone (682) 22166

Open 7 days for breakfast & dinner with specials menu also available. Enjoy happy hour and daily cocktail specials... enjoy a cocktail on the beach.

www.aroabeach.com

Experience Authentic Boutique . . . with Pacific Resort Rarotonga

Cook Islands catering specialists. Located at Moana Sands Hotel Titikaveka Beach p: (682) 27189 | rarosands@gmail.com www.rarosands.com

Sandals Beachfront Restaurant & Barefoot Bar Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch & dinner. Regular live entertainment. Island Night on Friday. Located in Muri at Pacific Resort Rarotonga. 20 427

“ Where meals and memories are made...”

Providing you with premium and unsurpassed location, accommodation and hospitality.

Relax and enjoy your Breakfast, Lunch, a cup of espresso coffee, an icy cold Experience it for yourself! beer or your favourite drink while Contact us now to be one step closer to your Cook Islands escape gazing out to the beautiful lagoon. www.pacificresort.com We serve authentic Thai food, tasty Mexican, burgers, fish and chips, home-made desserts Escape ad PRR W116mmH118mm.indd 1 and much more…

11/11/13 4:08 PM

Mince Pork Salad

Opening Hours Sunday to Thursday 9:00am – 2:30pm

Down south in Titikaveka

Tel.(+682)20020 S ALTWATER CAFE - R AROTONGA

ESCAPE • 37

local recipe

Boysenberry Couli We featured this recipe in a previous issue, but have since had several requests to publish it again, largely due to its novelty value (and it is, of course, really delicious). So chocolate lovers - here it is again…

Ingredients 500g boysenberries (fresh or frozen) 1 cup sugar Method Gently boil the boysenberries and sugar together till the juice reduces and thickens.

Kikau Hut wontons Banana chocolate wontons served with berry couli, anglaise & whipped cream Nick Kiimii was employed at Rarotonga’s Kikau Hut Restaurant in February 2010, initially in the role of a kitchen hand. At the same time, he commenced formal study with the Hospitality and Trade School and studied for the City and Guilds Certificate and Diploma in Cookery. In January of 2011 Nick graduated, achieving both his Certificate and Diploma. It was after his graduation that he was challenged by his employers to develop a dish, worthy of being included on the menu at Kikau Hut Restaurant. So Nick designed the “Kikau Wontons” which feature on their dessert menu today and are proving to be a hit with diners. Thanks Nick and Kikau Hut Restaurant for sharing this recipe with us.

Wontons Ingredients Wonton Wrappers White chocolate, milk chocolate, dark chocolate buttons Fresh bananas Egg wash (1 egg & ¼ cup milk)

Method Egg wash - combine one egg with a quarter cup of milk and whisk. Slice the bananas. Lay out as many wonton wrappers as required. Place into the centre of each wrapper two slices of banana and 3 of one type of chocolate buttons. Brush egg wash around all the edges of the wonton wrapper and then pull the sides up and stick together to form a small parcel. Cook the wontons in hot oil for a few minutes till golden. Drain well on absorbent paper.

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Anglaise Ingredients 4 egg yolks 1 cup cream ½ cup caster sugar Vanilla essence Method Whisk egg yolks and sugar together and set aside. Heat cream and vanilla essence together till hot but not boiling. Add the egg yolk mix to the cream & mix while whisking gently. Return the mix to the heat and stir continuously till mixture begins to thicken. Remove from heat and cool in an ice bath. Strain the Anglaise thru a fine sieve and chill. Spoon one tablespoon of boysenberry couli onto the centre of a flat plate. Drizzle the anglaise around the edge of the boysenberry couli or make a pattern.

To Assemble & Present Pile 3 of the warm crispy wontons onto the couli – one of each chocolate type. Sprinkle with icing sugar. Smother with a generous portion of whipped cream.

c i t n e h t u A e n i s i u C n a i s A A TA S T E O F A S I A

fine dining breakfast & lunch from 8am tapa’s & cocktails from 4pm dinner from 6pm reservations recommended ph:24280 email:sales@littlepolynesian.com www.littlepolynesian.com Top 10 Hotels for Romance in the South Pacific

Cook Islands Leading Boutique Hotel

A short stroll east of town Ph: 28830 or EmAil: bamboojacks@gmail.com We also have an air-conditioned private room for dining & meetings (with conference facilities)

t i r i p S n e d The Hid OpeN 7 days

Café & Grill

In the magical surrounds of the 7 acre Maire Nui Tropical Gardens in Tikikaveka

try our Open Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday nights Lunch and afternoon tea until 5pm | Asian fusion grill Fresh organic produce and our famous cheesecake! The Hidden Spirit & Maire Nui Gardens, a jewel of Rarotonga that should not be missed.

Phone for bookings 22796

Pizza Shack eat in or take out

PH 26464 • info@traderjacks.co.ck Wheelchair access available

village life

The Path to Our House

Story & artist: Joan Gragg

he path to our house branched off St Josephs Road in Tutakimoa.

I loved the path because it was moody. Sometimes bright and cheerful other times dark and scary. It was narrow, wedged between two hibiscus hedges then wound through banana trees. Just wide enough to ride our Mum’s bike on. On dark moonless nights the torch holder walking several paces ahead lit the way while the followers hugged arms and walked in unison in the rut of the path.

and embroidered cushion covers. In the middle of the room a table stood covered with a white crocheted cloth with a vase of gerberas and a framed picture of family members. High up on the walls hung studio portraits of families in winter clothes in New Zealand, wedding pictures, paintings of Jesus and Mary, cut-out pictures from

Their bathroom, Are pai, had walls of plaited coconut fronds around a tall pipe that gushed water from great heights when the tap was turned on. Their towels slung over the wall while they showered got very wet when it rained. Ours did too.

Peni our relative highlighted our sensitivity to the path. He alluded to the creepy ghosts, tupapaku, who lived on the path and appeared in the shadows, or lingered in the pit toilet that belonged to Mama Vitoria and her family living at the entrance to the path. They had a sleeping house, cook house, a bath house without a roof, and a pit toilet. The main house had a wood packing case for a step into their sitting room. At the front door a pareu curtain hung with a knot in it to stop it from blowing about in the breeze. The wood floor was covered with pandanus mats overlapping each other, springy in parts where several mats met. We kids were not allowed in except on special occasions, or when we followed our grandmother in and sat next to her and looked in awe at the beautiful decorations. Nothing in this room was like our sitting room, the colour, the arrangement of the furniture and every single article in it. I imagined Aladdin’s cave would be like this. Around the walls were homemade sofas and chairs dressed with bright Tivaivai

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with forms on either side where people sat about and chatted and ate and worked. At the other end was the umu (earth oven) and open fire for cooking.

magazines, The Last Supper and King George. Each framed and festooned with shell and paper eis (garlands) like beads of precious gems hanging over them. The room was dark and made you want to walk around and stand on the furniture so you could get a closer look at the pictures and the eis but any movement commanded expulsion from the sitting room. We never went into the bedroom. The cook house had a thatched roof and open sides. The floor was kirikiri (coral pebbles). At one end was a narrow table

Our path also led to their pit toilet. In a small building four feet by four feet rested a poured concrete slab and toilet seat, in one piece, poised over a hole in the ground. These toilet ensembles were donated by philanthropist John Rockefeller in the 1930’s. An au tree the ‘toilet paper’, was close by. The back of au leaves were the best to use to wipe ones bottom because they have veins that provide texture rather than the top of the leaf which is smooth and glossy. Our toilet was similar but their outlook on the path was much more interesting. It had a door stuck on almost closed, so if someone happened to be doing their business as one passed by an informative conversation could be had. If the toilet was empty one wondered if the tupapaku that Peni told stories about were waiting to pounce.

Illustrations in this story are from Joan’s Playing Cards of the Cook Islands that are available from selected retailers. See the advertisement on page 13. Joan’s art can also be viewed at The Furniture Centre.

Island Escape Over thirty years ago an Air New Zealand DC10 arrived in Rarotonga, carrying a youthful Australian family on the adventure of a lifetime. Disenchanted with the duties of a suburban housewife and

As fate would have it, during the 1980's a new industry was

never seeing a husband that typically worked 12-16 hour

born on the Island of Manihiki. Black Pearls.

shifts as an electrical engineer, my mother rebelled and escaped to the little known Islands of the South Pacific with a friend & mentor. Having visited Lord Howe and Norfolk Islands, the duo arrived in Rarotonga. The effect was immediate and my mother realised that she had found our new home. Shortly thereafter and much to the chargrin of friends and neighbours, the Bergmans abandoned the suburbs of Melbourne for an unheard of future, on an unknown island. Since that time, my family has built a company specialising in Cook Islands Pearls. Relocating to the northern group Island of Penrhyn for 5 years in 1976, my parents collected natural pearls for European and Asian markets.

Our family business naturally evolved to include these beautiful gems and became the first local company to specialise in Black Pearl Jewellery. Today we operate four shops on two islands and our specialty remains Cook Islands Pearls. On the occasion of our 35th anniversary, I warmly welcome you to our Cook Islands Black Pearl Jewellery Stores to experience a part of our continuing family adventure. And I take this opportunity to bid you Kia Orana and welcome to my adopted home. My name is Ben Bergman, Pearl Jewellery Designer & Director of Bergman & Sons, Black Pearl Jewellers of the Cook Islands. Kia Manuia.

Cooks Corner RAROTONGA Pacific Resort AITUTAKI p +682 21 902 e lukeb@oyster.net.ck w www.bergmanandsons.com ESCAPE â&#x20AC;˘ 41

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o p p o r t G o o n yo u r g n i d wed y a d

What could be more memorable than combining your wedding, honeymoon and holiday all in one easy package?

Story: Rachel Reeves Photos: Melanie Cooper

ESCAPE â&#x20AC;˘ 43

wedding can be a stressful thing. From putting together a guest list that won’t offend or exclude anyone, to sourcing a caterer that appeals to dozens of dissimilar palates, to hiring a band that will please vastly disparate age groups… it’s a tricky business. There are colours to choose, bridesmaids to dress, invitations to print, and vows to practice. Some industry people have begun to use the term Wedding-Industrial Complex, a play on the term Military-Industrial Complex that denotes a huge, profit-driven wedding industry seeking to capitalise on every girl’s (or boy’s) childhood fantasy of the perfect wedding, with perfect decorations and a perfect menu. It’s no wonder then, that the easy, stress-free option of a tropical beach wedding is becoming increasingly more desirable. Many couples find that planning a Cook Islands wedding entails less stress and, in most cases, less money than arranging a ceremony in their home countries. And maybe it’s because an overseas wedding necessarily condenses the guest list, or because it doubles as a honeymoon and holiday, or maybe it’s just because the island spirit compels even the most harried travellers to slow down and savour every moment. Whatever the reason, destination weddings are exploding in popularity on

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Rarotonga and Aitutaki.

“It saves you heaps of time, rather than having to do everything yourself,” said King, who wed Kebrasca Ratima on a sandy Rarotonga beach, one sunny afternoon last September.

This mirrors a larger global trend. Many a bridal magazine has published the results of reader surveys, which reveal a drastic uptick in destination weddings around the world. “Destination weddings have always been a fun and exciting option, and never more so than over the past few years,” says a Rarotonga wedding planner. “What could be more memorable than combining your wedding, honeymoon and holiday all in one easy package? And why wouldn't you choose the Cook Islands as your wedding destination?

“We can cater to couples through to large groups, with a variety of accommodation options to suit all budgets and tastes. It is simple and easy to get around, and best of all you are using the Kiwi dollar, so you know exactly what you are spending.” Several couples that approached their Cook Islands nuptials differently – one used a wedding planner and another didn’t; one married on Rarotonga and another on Aitutaki – delivered an identical

“In hindsight, looking back, people say, ‘Would you do anything differently?’ ‘Would you go anywhere else?’ Definitely not,” Richard said. “This was pretty special.” people say, ‘Would you do anything differently?’ ‘Would you go anywhere else?’ Definitely not,” Richard said. “This was pretty special.” His wife Michelle’s girlhood dreams were of a tropical wedding. An internet search led her to Aitutaki, and immediately she knew it was where she wanted to be married.

verdict on their wedding experience. Each said the planning was painless, the backdrops were breathtaking, and the experience had all the trappings of a fairytale. Newlywed Amber King said hiring a wedding coordinator was the best decision she made. A wedding can be a great deal of work – there are florists, DJs, make-up artists, and hair stylists to hire. There’s a location to reserve. There are photographers and celebrants to source. There is a marriage license to procure from the Ministry of Justice. “It saves you heaps of time, rather than having to do everything yourself,” said King, who wed Kebrasca Ratima on a sandy Rarotonga beach, one sunny afternoon last September. Amber said her wedding was perfect. By marrying in the Cook Islands, she was able to shrink her guest list to a more manageable number. “We’ve got really large families back in New Zealand,” Amber said. “We thought, ‘If we get married in

New Zealand, the wedding’s going to be massive.’ So it was good to come here and cut costs, because only the people who could really afford it came. Plus, you get to have a holiday with all your friends and family who do make it.” “It was like a family reunion slash wedding slash holiday,” Kebrasca added. And of course, the Cook Islands backdrop lent itself to striking pictures. In fact, the photographer shooting Kebrasca and Amber’s pictures caught sight of something in the distance off the Arorangi shore. Soon, two whale flukes shifted into focus.

“We always knew that when we would get married, it would be a very small affair on the beach,” Michelle said. “We knew we wanted to go overseas, so I did quite a bit of research to find the right spot. When I stumbled across Aitutaki, I fell in love with it, really.” Bora Bora had been a contender, but she ruled it out because there seemed to be “more red tape,” she said. “Here, it was just a very straightforward process to apply for

“The two of them were just bouncing around and we were like, ‘That’s awesome, man,’” Kebrasca said. “We thought the wedding would be amazing, but it was better than we thought. It was our perfect wedding. Better than anything I could have imagined.” Richard Veale, who wed Michelle on an Aitutaki beach, echoed Kebrasca’s enthusiasm. “In hindsight, looking back,

ESCAPE • 45

AVAILABLE AT

PHARMACY

WE BELIEVE IN YOU the license and have the wedding where we wanted it.” Michelle and Richard also chose to use a wedding coordinator. Their beach ceremony proceeded on a sunny afternoon, and Michelle walked down a sandy aisle lined with coconuts. Clad in a long white dress from Edinburgh, she wore no shoes. “It was just so beautiful, with the sunset behind,” Richard said. “The ceremony was one of those moments you wish could’ve gone on for hours.” The reception was on the beach by torchlight, under a canopy of stars. Michelle had always fantasized about saying her vows with sand between her toes and sun on her shoulders, but her Aitutaki wedding outdid even her daydreams. “For us, it was a fairytale,” Michelle said. “We live on the beach in Australia so we’re very used to the beach. But being on a lagoon like this is just pretty special. It’s so nice to be just looking out at the perfect water that’s clear and calm as far as the eye can see.”

Emitting a newlywed glow, Richard looked at his bride. “We’re already talking about coming back for anniversaries, if that’s any indication of our experience,” he said, smiling. Amy Woodyard, who married Cook Islands Rugby Sevens coach Chad Tuoro on an Arorangi beach in August, said the laidback Cook Islands spirit infused her entire wedding experience – the planning, the marrying, and the partying.

Tamanu Bea Emitting a newlywed glow, Richard looked at his bride. “We’re already talking about coming back for anniversaries, if that’s any indication of our experience,” he said, smiling.

AVARUA SHOPPING 46 • ESCAPE CENTRE

“We really wanted a destination where our guests could just be chilled out,” Amy said. “Normally I think weddings are so stressful for a bride and her family, but the whole process was quite an enjoyable experience. Everyone was just so chilled, and that just changed the whole dynamic.” The morning of the wedding, Amy and Chad’s guests went for a swim in the lagoon, and rode hired scooters to the 2:30 pm ceremony on a private beach for champagne, tapas, and a west-side sunset. “We just couldn’t have had a more special wedding,” Amy said.

Newlywed Hayley Weeks said the same about her own wedding. When she arrived in Rarotonga to teach diving, she had already arranged a marriage ceremony back in England. “After being here, we decided we loved it too much, and we thought, ‘Let’s just do the wedding here,’” Hayley said. She was transported by canoe to a small offshore islet, where she married Tom beneath an arch of flowers. “Everything’s on island time, so laidback,” Hayley said. “No stress at all, really chilled. It was perfect. I loved it. I wouldn’t have changed a thing.”

wedding fact file: Application for a Wedding Licence Application for a licence must be made in person to the Registrar of Marriages in the Cook Islands at least 3 working days prior to the marriage. The office is open Monday to Friday, 8am - 4pm. Application for the licence cannot be made outside the Cook Islands. Documents Required Your passport and birth certificate will be required when filing the Notice of Intended Marriage at the Registrars Office in Avarua, Cook Islands. If divorced, a copy of the Decree Absolute (divorce documents) is required. All documents must be in English. If you are a widow or widower, you will be required to produce the death certificate of your deceased spouse. Legal Age The legal age of consent to marry is 20 years, otherwise written approval by parents is required. Churches on the Islands The Cook Islands host a number of religious denominations. The main ones are: Cook Islands Christian Church (Protestant), The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (Mormon), Seventh Day Adventist, Apostolic Church, Jehovah’s Witness, Assembly of God, Cornerstone Friends Mission Church, Holy Spirit Revival, and Roman Catholic. Check with your local minister regarding the requirements to marry in the Church, as they will also apply to the Cook Islands.

ach

For further information, please contact: Marriage Inquiries, Registrars Department Department of Justice and Lands P.O. Box 11, Rarotonga. Phone: (682) 29-410, Fax (682) 29-610 Email: offices@justice.gov.ck

AITUTAKI • COOK ISLANDS

lowing Pacific sunsets, warm nights, tropical cocktails and white sand between your toes...Where better to celebrate or rekindle that spark than the magic of Aitutaki, the Island of Love.

ESCAPE • 47 Ph. (682) 31810 | Fax. (682) 31816 | Email. reservations@tamanubeach.com | www.tamanubeach.com

Resorts with wedding planners Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa (Aitutaki) tel: 31200 | www.AitutakiLagoonResort.com

Aroa Beachside Inn tel: 22166 | www.aroabeach.com

Club Raro tel: 22415 | www.clubraro.co.ck

Pacific Resort Rarotonga tel: 20427 | www.pacificresort.com

Palm Grove tel: 20002 | www.palmgrove.net

Sunset Resort tel: 28028 | www.thesunsetresort.com

Tamanu Beach (Aitutaki) tel: 31810 | www.tamanubeach.com

The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa tel: 25800 | www.TheRarotongan.com

Crown Beach Resort tel: 23953 | www.crownbeach.com

Edgewater Resort tel: 25435 | www.edgewater.co.ck

Wedding planners

Little Polynesian tel: 24280 | www.littlepolynesian.com

Bishops Cruises (Aitutaki) tel: 31009 | www.bishopscruises.com

MELANIE COOPER PHOTOGRAPHY

ph 53303 melaniecoopercreative.com

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Moana Sands Beachfront Hotel & Villas

Sails Restaurant

tel: 26189 | www.moanasands.co.ck

tel: 27349 | www.theweddingguys.co.ck

Muri Beach Club Hotel

Tamarind House Restaurant

tel: 23000 | www.muribeachclubhotel.com

tel: 26487 | www.tamarind.co.ck

Muri Beachcomber

Te Vara Nui

tel: 21022 | www.beachcomber.co.ck

tel: 24006 | www.tevaranui.co.ck

Pacific Resort (Aitutaki)

Wedded Bliss

tel: 31720 | www.pacificresort.com

tel: 26659 or 54287 | www.weddedbliss.co.ck

T H E R A R O T O N G A N B E A C H R E S O R T & S PA

Lagoon of Love

weddings I

magine being surrounded by the warm wishes of those you love as you exchange vows beside the Lagoon of Love in tropical Rarotonga. For the most romantic weddings on Rarotonga with everything taken care of for you and your family and friends, the iconic Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa awaits you and your beloved. Three ‘Lagoon of Love’ wedding packages to choose from, or our Personal Wedding Planner can help you design your own personal ceremony. Couples in your wedding group can stay next door at adults-only, 4.5 star Sanctuary Rarotonga-on the beach. For your heavenly honeymoon, fly away to 5 star Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa, the ONLY resort set directly on the World’s Most Beautiful Lagoon, the ONLY resort in the Cook Islands with Overwater Bungalows and ONLY private island resort. Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa has just enjoyed a multi-million makeover and is officially ADULTS-ONLY from 01 April 2014. Heaven sent. Visit us online at www.TheRarotongan.com For your friends + family in Australia, there’s now a new direct flight Sydney-Rarotonga! Aroa Beach + Lagoon Marine Reserve Rarotonga | COOK ISLANDS P (+682) 25 800 | F 25 799 weddings@rarotongan.co.ck | info@rarotongan.co.ck www.TheRarotongan.com

SISTER RESORTS: www.AitutakiLagoonResort.com (ADULTS-ONLY from 01 April 2014!) www.SanctuaryRarotonga.com (4.5 star Adults-Only Resort)

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lagoon

The big, blue Story: Rachel Reeves Photos: Noel Bartley

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Big, blue, warm, and full of harmless life, the lagoon is not only disarmingly beautiful, but it’s also an invaluable asset for the Aitutaki community.

for the Aitutaki community. Local people creatively maximise its tourism potential. Signs near the airport advertise day tours, fishing trips, kiteboarding lessons, snorkeling charters, and bonefishing guides. There are SCUBA dives, spearfishing excursions, wakeboarding trips, boats for hire, water taxis. For a waterbaby, Aitutaki is the prototypical playground. Trust me on this one. Through a SCUBA mask I ogled at fleshy, blue-lipped clams as big as truck tyres. I went wakeboarding behind a speedboat; lunched on a buffet of fresh fish and fruit aboard a double-hulled canoe; paddled in a six-man canoe against the backdrop of a setting sun; and glided across the lagoon’s placid surface on a stand-up paddleboard.

y cousin is spellbound, his eyes fixed on the turquoise lagoon spreading from beneath our little boat, his mouth open in awe.

of a more perfect, more luminescent turquoise than that of the lagoon of Aitutaki, arguably the most beautiful in the world,” Steve Davey writes in his travel anthology entitled Unforgettable Places to See Before You Die.

“This is unreal,” he says, with intentional stress on the final syllable. He saw this lagoon once, when he was a child, but hazy memories left him ill prepared for its electrifying beauty.

The lagoon covers nearly 70 kilometres of area, and in its centre sits Aitutaki – an atoll except for one volcanic mountain, rumoured in legend to have been stolen from Rarotonga by Aitutaki’s early warriors. A coral reef encircles the entire Aitutaki lagoon, keeping the ocean at bay and protecting the main island and 15 other motu, the local word denoting tiny, flat, uninhabited atolls.

This lagoon has a reputation for being one of the loveliest in the Pacific. Even on off days, during rare periods of overcast skies, the water retains a strikingly vivid colour. “No artist’s palette could ever conceive

Without a doubt, Aitutaki’s sprawling lagoon is its foremost tourist attraction. Big, blue, warm, and full of harmless life, the lagoon is not only disarmingly beautiful, but it’s also an invaluable asset

I watched kitesurfers hit ramps in high winds and anglers creep up on the elusive bonefish. Many an afternoon I spent splayed out on a sandbar, half-submerged in water clear as glass and warm as a bath. I had my passport stamped at One Foot Island and spent hours reading on islands inhabited by palm trees and little else. I never tired of playing in this vast marine park. There are, of course, things to do on Aitutaki itself – cultural tours, evening crab hunts by the light of a bright moon, Sunday morning services at the Cook Islands Christian Church, farmers’ markets, dance and drum shows. For bookworms, there are hammocks strung between two coconut trees. For the indulgent traveler, there are seaside bars serving cocktails, fresh fish, and breadfruit chips. For the adventurous, there are undeveloped atolls, home to a cluster of palms and brilliantly white sand, free of footprints, fringed by the lagoon.

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This is the stuff of fantasy, the picture of a holiday destination conjured by anyone who’s been overwhelmed by traffic or paperwork or monotony, and dreamt of escape. The landscape hearkens back to a Polynesia of old. This is the Rarotonga of yesteryear – some roads are charmingly unpaved, the airport is an airy, one-room building, and signs warn us to SLOW DOWN as we proceed at less than 20 km/ hr. People wave, cheerful and genuine, happily welcoming us onto their island. My cousin wonders aloud whether they might be waving at someone else, or because we’re driving a car that belongs to our hotel manager. “Or are they really just that friendly?” he muses. Then, he answers his own question: “Wow.” This air is fragrant and the sky, seamlessly blue. Everywhere there is greenery,

punctuated only by the vivid pinks, reds, and purples of frangipani, hibiscus, and bougainvillea. The main road is lined with homes, their front yards immaculately raked and planted with flowering trees that cast shade onto well-maintained, white graves. As in Rarotonga, the local people bury their relatives in the yard – a solution to the problem of limited cemetery land, and a means of keeping ancestral spirits near. Local homes are unpretentious, with slatted louvers for windows and pareu fabric standing in for doors. Across verandahs, sheets and clothing line-dry in the gentle breeze. There are a substantial number of empty homes scattered about. For decades the Cook Islands has grappled with the challenge of mass outward migration, but Aitutaki’s depopulation in particular accelerated in 2010, when Cyclone Pat devastated scores of homes. Now, nature has grown around those concrete building frames whose occupants have departed. Green vines coil themselves around deserted manmade structures, as if to reclaim them. As we drive, the paved road ends and a sandy path begins, leading into a thick jungle that tumbles into an ever-present lagoon. Green presses against our car – the large leaves of purau (yellow

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This air is fragrant and the sky, seamlessly blue. Everywhere there is greenery, punctuated only by the vivid pinks, reds, and purples of frangipani, hibiscus, and bougainvillea.

hibiscus) trees and the wispy tentacles of toa (ironwood). Banana trees spring like fountains from the earth.

BOUTIQUE BEACH VILLAS AITUTAKI, COOK ISLANDS

It is increasingly common to meet travelers who reserve most of their time in the Cook Islands for Aitutaki, and use Rarotonga as a point of transit rather than a destination. One couple I met on Aitutaki was visiting for 13 nights. “We were a bit nervous that would be too many nights and we’d run out of things to do,” said an English fellow named Richard, who was preparing to enjoy the final day of his honeymoon. “But we haven’t been bored. Not at all, have we?” he said, turning to his bride, who offered an enthusiastic shake of her head. Next to Rarotonga, Aitutaki is the most visited of the Cook Islands. But while it lags behind Rarotonga in terms of tourist numbers, its international profile has always rivaled the capital island’s. Indeed, Aitutaki has a unique modern history. For one thing, it was the first of the Cook Islands exposed to Christianity. Willingly, the people of Aitutaki embraced the gospel introduced in 1821 by John Williams of the London Missionary Society (LMS), who brought with him two Tahitian converts named Papeiha and Vahapata. They remained on Aitutaki even after their mentor departed, and within the decade, Aitutaki and the other Cook Islands had adopted the LMS religion.

Voted #1 hotel in Aitutaki

Ten luxurious self-contained polynesian style villas with spectacular ocean views,swimming pool and honesty bar. www.etumoana.com | Phone (682) 31 458

AITUTAKI • COOK ISLANDS

Prime beachfront location

Then, a century later, the island was again a point of intersection between the Cook Islands and the rest of the world. During World War II, American soldiers chose Aitutaki to be a South Pacific outpost, as it was strategically located between the United States and Japan. They arrived in droves, and here they built the Cook Islands’ first airstrip and international airport. American soldiers met local women and fathered local children, and today, the G.I. legacy lives on. Then, in the 1950s, Aitutaki became the Cook Islands’ portal to the tourist community when aviation company

Twelve individual garden bungalows, and one of the best swimming beaches on Aitutaki. Pacific Inspired Cuisine, Open 7 days a week - Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner. Tuesday Aitutaki Island Feast & Cultural Show and Sunday All Day Island BBQ. Bookings essential phone (682) 31526 | reservations@aitutakivillage.com www.samadeonthebeach.com

ESCAPE • 53

Tupuna’s Tupuna’s Restaurant Restaurant aitutaki

For quite possibly the best a-la-carte dining on Aitutaki visit Tupuna’s Restaurant. Here, in a truly relaxed island setting, we promise you an evening to remember and cuisine you’ll want to tell your friends about. Relax with sand in your toes while we serve you the freshest island produce of the day. We are fully licensed and open Monday to Saturday from 6pm. Visa, Amex & Mastercard accepted.

Reservations Recommended

Phone: 31678

Email: tupunasrestaurant@aitutaki.net.ck

Tasman Empire Airways Limited (TEAL) designated one of the motu in its lagoon – Akaiami – a re-fuelling stop on The Coral Route. Solent flying boats came from Auckland via Fiji, Samoa, and Tahiti. Wealthy, glamorous Kiwis – people who could afford the luxury of flying – arrived on Aitutaki, where they would swim and relax as the aircraft topped up its fuel tanks on Akaiami. That decade was the advent of the South Pacific – known then as the South Seas – as a tourism destination, and Aitutaki was swept into its embrace. Today, the Coral Route is no more, but Aitutaki still performs regularly under the international spotlight. Well-known

Relax with a cold drink while you enjoy the cool breezes and ocean view. Enjoy a simple all-day menu, or a-la-carte dinner menu featuring local seafood. We are the restaurant of Popoara Ocean Breeze Villas. P. 31479 | www.popoaraoceanbreeze.com

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The perfect lagoon-side setting for breakfast, lunch & dinner, as well as regular live entertainment. • Island Night & Fire Dance - Thursday evenings productions like British series Shipwrecked, American game show Survivor, and Canadian program Survivorman have all filmed episodes on its deserted motu.

• BBQ with live entertainment - Sunday evenings • Excellent A La Carte menu - every other evening

Tony Wheeler, who co-founded the travel guide Lonely Planet, called Aitutaki the world’s most beautiful island. British news agency Reuters even named it one of the 10 best places to survive a breakup or divorce.

amanu Beach As Aitutaki’s profile expands, its tourism industry becomes more fully developed – not as an offshoot of Rarotonga’s, but in its own right. The main island has several resorts, one of them five-star, and the only over-water bungalows in the Cook Islands. Customer service is surprisingly attentive. Some shops are even open on Sundays – a rare circumstance in much of the post-missionary South Pacific.

Still, this concerns some locals, and particularly those who meet unfailingly every Sunday near the runway to protect the operation of commercial flights on the Sabbath. They are living proof that despite Aitutaki’s expanding tourism infrastructure, the island retains old-school airs. They are proof that Aitutaki still belongs to Aitutaki, to Polynesia, to what Steve Davey wholeheartedly believes is the most beautiful lagoon in the world. This, I think to myself, is paradise found – the kind of place that will sear itself into my memory, work its way into my dinnertime conversations for years to come, and beckon me back for another visit.

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www.tamanubeach.com ESCAPE • 55

Punarei. Trapped in the tribe 56 â&#x20AC;˘ ESCAPE

“You think this is Aitutaki? You think this is what Aitutaki is like?” he ventures, his voice loud with passion. “No way. It’s not. You don’t know. Most of us don’t even know.” ESCAPE • 57

e climb into the back of a jungle-worn truck and, before we can sit down, Ngaa throws it into gear. Peering from beneath the hat of dried kikau (coconut fibre) he wears on his head, his eyes search for ours in the rearview mirror. They find their target, and Ngaa launches abruptly into a powerful discourse. “You think this is Aitutaki? You think this is what Aitutaki is like?” he ventures, his voice loud with passion. “No way. It’s not. You don’t know. Most of us don’t even know.” And so begins our journey: to a plateau of land overlooking the turquoise lagoon, and simultaneously through the ancient history of Aitutaki. Ngaakaara Kita Taria Pureariki is a zealously curious student of the Polynesian past who has painstakingly and voluntarily constructed a cultural village on this plateau, which is his wife’s family land.

Ngaa is a researcher, archaeologist, and cultural pundit who is vocal about the need for Aitutaki to rediscover its ancient traditions that disappeared when Christianity arrived in the early 1820s. He has made it his life’s mission to uncover the secrets of this island’s history, and he wants to share them with both tourists and local children. Punarei is the culmination of Ngaa’s research – a space for showcasing the ancient knowledge he has accrued. “Punarei is the land,” Ngaa says, referring to the name of this section. “It’s perfect for what I’m doing. Puna is a tribe. Rei is trap. You get trapped inside the tribe. It makes sense for cultural preservation. “I’d like

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Here, on this plateau, Ngaa built thatched huts and manicured a landscape of ti trees, tiare bushes, and coconut palms. Each plant fits into a pattern resembling the female anatomy – a metaphor, he says, for the land’s fertility.

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people who come here to understand the way our ancestors lived. I want them to be remembered.”

Previous page: Ngaa explains the use of different plants. This page clockwise from left: Paengariki Marae; Guests help prepare an umu (underground oven); Succulent food cooked in the ground; No nails construction of traditional thatched huts.

“The female seduces herself to the male, which is the water, and they come together and make life,” Ngaa says. “The sea and the land become life. That’s what the pattern’s all about. It’s how all the villages on Aitutaki used to be built. Those people really understood nature.” That allencompassing respect for, and reliance, on nature underpins the Punarei experience. A warrior in traditional costume greets visitors to Punarei, welcoming them to stand on a basalt rock. By accepting, they agree to enter the land in peace. They learn to make traditional crafts of kikau and play traditional games – one uses a coconut as a ball – and then they prepare and eat a traditional feast of chicken and fish (wrapped in banana leaves and cooked underground in an umu), ripe fruit, and fresh vegetables. Ngaa then takes his tour further inland to Paengariki, a marae (traditional

meeting place) that he helped to excavate in 2006 as part of a team led by archaeologist Mark Eddowes. Among the exciting discoveries that team made was a tattooing comb made from human jawbone. Visitors come to Punarei to experience this cultural village, weave coconut fibre baskets, and feast on island food, but above all, they come to learn from Ngaa. And he comes here to teach. Throughout the tour, he never stops talking, spilling cultural secrets with waxing enthusiasm. He talks about how females in ancient Aitutaki chose their partners, rather than the other way around. The only exception was in the case of a chief, who had enough power to choose his own suitors. He talks about Tangaroa, the god of the sea; Rongo, the god of the land and fertility; ancient discipline practices; drumming; tattooing; the “blue laws” imposed by the missionaries. And always he returns, with childlike wonder, to the ingenuity of his ancestors. “They knew everything,” he says. “They knew the wind, they knew which times to travel, they knew how many miles away other islands were.” He looks at the horizon, thinks awhile, and breaks into a smile. “Wow, everything they did was unbelievable.”

And always he returns, with childlike wonder, to the ingenuity of his ancestors. “They knew everything,” he says. Ngaa stops here, and points to my cousin’s foot. “What made you put your tattoo on your foot?” he asks her, his eyes boring into hers. Before she can answer, he’s telling her something about her own heritage she’s never heard. “Let me explain to you about that. That’s the place Aitutaki females put tatau. That’s the place that would get them to the next life,” he says. “Your life depends on your foot. You step on Aitutaki and that’s your

ESCAPE • 59

next life. It’s your foot, not your brain,” he continues, visibly excited. “Your brain is thinking, but your foot will take you. Life begins with a footstep. It’s a way of seducing yourself to the land, and the land will give you life.” He uses this as a segue to talk about the prominence of tatau in Polynesian culture. “The tattoo is all about us,” he says. “Tatau means read. That’s what it means – you read your life. It’s reading your identity.” This is what Ngaa has committed his life to: reading his identity. In his 20s, Ngaa attended school in Melbourne. Proud of his Cook Islands roots, he would often talk of home. Before long, it dawned on him that he couldn’t articulate to outsiders what it was that made him proud. “I wanted to know who I was and I want to know who we are as Aitutaki people,” he said. “I came back in 1997 to finish my house, but that time, at night I did not have any sleep,” he said. “I wanted to ask people about who we were, but they all came back to Christianity. I realized that they didn’t know about the culture. I wanted to ask people, but their [responses] always came back to Christianity. It just hit me: ‘You have to find out who you are.’” Ngaa’s research is not restricted only to books. He undertakes physical excavations and studies oral history – chants and songs in the local language. He feels the presence of his ancestors and tries, always, to perceive the world the way they did.

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“I get so much energy from my research,” he says, his eyes wide with intensity. “For me, researching my culture is the highlight of my life. I can physically see what they ate, what they carved. It’s there; the evidence is there.” Ngaa is using proceeds from Punarei Culture Village to fund future excavations and expensive research equipment, and to enable him to bring groups of local schoolchildren to Punarei to learn about their own roots. He has ruffled several feathers in a community that revolves around the Cook Islands Christian Church – so devout are the people of Aitutaki that every Sunday afternoon, a group gathers near the airport to hold signs in protest of Sunday flights – but he is unfazed by the backlash. “I’m really confident in what I’m doing because I know who I am,” he says. “I’m not doing this for money. I want to make sure that when visitors come here, they think of Aitutaki as having a rich culture, not just a beautiful lagoon. I want people to know who we are as a nation, as Polynesians, as Aitutakians. And I also want us, to know who we are.”

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ESCAPE • 61

Tua Pittman -traditional navigator-

“I’ll never be over my fear of the ocean,” exclaims Tua Pittman, proud Cook Islander and one of the preeminent traditional navigators in the Pacific. “I never thought that I’d be able to learn this because I was never an ocean boy, I was never a man of the sea.” An odd sentiment coming from a man whose adult life has been seemingly defined by it.

Story: Jess Cramp

A proud moment as Tua (aft near the steering oar) waves to an onshore crowd, upon the arrival of the vaka Marumaru Atua in Rarotonga for the first time. The culmination of an historic voyage from New Zealand. Photo Noel Bartley

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e was born Teuatakiri Pittman in Auckland New Zealand, the eldest of five, whom according to Tua, are a “fruit salad” of rich, mixed Polynesian blood. Tahitian-Cook Islander on his mother’s side, New Zealand Maori-Cook Islander on his father’s side, they relocated to Rarotonga when Tua was five years old. “A year after we arrived here” Tua says as his smile quickly fades and his gaze falls down on his hands, which are rested gently on his large knees. He sits perfectly poised in a chair wearing a button-down blue and white island shirt and a pair of slacks. His flowing grey coif accentuates his flawless, tanned skin and his large physical presence is contrasted by soft, yet articulated speech and a quick-witted sense of humour. However today, the jokes fade and his crinkled brow foreshadows the sadness of a defining moment in his life, “my father and grandfather went out fishing and they got washed away by a rogue wave and never came back.”

ESCAPE • 63

Left: A warriors welcome in Honiara, Solomon Islands. Below: Tua in the early days.

They were fishing on the reef near Ava’avaroa passage on Rarotonga when tragedy struck. From that moment, Tua felt “standoffish” toward the ocean. Understandably, a life at sea was the farthest thing from his mind. Winds of Change It wasn’t until 1985, when Tua was 18 years old, that the arrival of Hokule’a, the traditional double-hulled Hawaiian canoe which was built with the deliberate intention of reinvigorating a nearly extinct Polynesian voyaging culture of noninstrument navigation, would afford him reason to face his fears, and develop an unwavering reverence for his ancestry. “I had heard a lot about her, the canoe. I heard the songs about how Hokule’a sailed from Hawaii to Tahiti and back with traditional navigators onboard. And when Hokule’a came here, I was totally infatuated by this whole…” Tua’s voice trails off as if searching for words to describe a spiritual connection to a nonhuman entity, “tradition of voyaging.” “I would go down there with my brother and would just sit and watch these guys on the canoe, to a point where they needed help and they called us to come onboard! We were just so excited that we were even allowed to stand onboard this canoe,” he says with the youthful exuberance of a boy who’s life path has been altered (or who has just met his childhood hero). “That was the beginning of almost a lifetime, so far, of voyaging for me.”

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... Tua’s voice trails off as if searching for words to describe a spiritual connection to a nonhuman entity, “tradition of voyaging.” During hurricane season that year, Hokule’a was left in the eager hands of Tua and his brothers on Rarotonga, who performed maintenance and kept her safe. When the canoe began voyaging again throughout Polynesia, in an effort to help other Polynesian islands regain their voyaging traditions, they invited an indigenous person from each stop along the way in New Zealand, Tonga and Samoa. And when Hokule’a was heading back to the Cook Islands from Samoa, Tua was asked to join. On that trip, Hokule’a proved to the world that traditional canoes could sail against the trade winds using non-instrument navigation, which some thought was impossible. They could go from west to east. But in order to do this, they jumped out in front of storms, which made the trips really rough. The significance of the achievement was not lost on Tua, the only Cook Islander onboard. It further highlighted the brilliance and bravery of

his ancestors. However it wasn’t enough to allow him to overcome his fear of the sea. Young, seasick and terrified, when Hokule’a finally reached Aitutaki, Tua swore to himself “I will never go back to sea again.” But the stars had other plans for Tua. The crew of Hokule’a invited him to join a group of islanders sailing from Rangiroa (French Polynesia) to Hawaii. Enticed by the camaraderie of the group and the opportunity to visit Hawaii, even though he swore he would never do it again, he went. Included in the group was a Micronesian man named Mau Piailug, the first navigator on Hokule’a and the last master navigator in the Pacific with the ability to revive this ancient tradition and subsequently, reunite Polynesia through its collective cultural pride. Mau broke the custom of his own family by reaching out to teach the Hawaiians and others, ensuring the tradition would survive near extinction in Polynesia. No turning back In preparation for the 1992 Pacific Arts Festival themed “The Seafaring People of the Pacific” Cook Islands Prime Minister Sir Geoffrey Henry sent out a challenge to all canoes in the region to sail to Rarotonga using non-instrument navigation.

Accepting the challenge, the Polynesian Voyaging Society of Hawaii, determined to revitalize the art of celestial navigation throughout Polynesia, said they’d come under one condition - the Cook Islands voyagers must learn to navigate their own canoe. On his second trip to Aitutaki aboard Hokule’a, master navigator Mau handpicked Tua, who was excited to learn navigation from the master, Mau; and Nainoa Thompson, a Hawaiian whom Mau had already trained. Joined by six of his fellow countrymen in Hawaii, they spent months memorizing the stars, fine-tuning their accuracy, and ultimately testing their faith in this ancient tradition.

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During one training voyage, Tua described the first time he felt secure in what they had learned. “When we left Marquesas, we anticipated seeing an island about 110km on the way up to Hawaii. And we hit the island bang on,” proving to Tua the power and significance of his new skills, but also making him acutely aware of his new responsibilities.

But the stars had other plans for Tua. Enticed by the camaraderie of the group and the opportunity to visit Hawaii, even though he swore he would never do it again, he went. “The navigator has to memorize up to 200 stars in the sky, differences in constellations, and understand where they’re rising from on this compass (on the canoe) and where they’re going to set on this compass.” Tua explains that the

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ESCAPE • 65

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navigator’s seat was positioned behind the compass, with different star placements etched in the rails around the canoe, or vaka. “A constellation that rises close to east will always set close to west on the other side of the compass.” “Even after we went through squalls, we couldn’t see any stars but we used the swells and the wind acting on the canoe to keep the vaka on a certain course. And when the swells cleared up and the stars came out and we were still on course… there was no doubting any more after that.” The stars begin to rise More than two decades and thousands of miles since he swore never to go back to sea, only Tua and one other Cook Islander were honored with a title bestowed upon a sacred few voyagers - Pwo or master navigator. In 2008, Tua and Maukean Peia Patai, captain of Cook Islands vaka Marumaru Atua, and original member of the Cook Islands delegation sent to Hawaii, were invited to Mau’s home on the tiny atoll of Satawal, Micronesia. There they were to receive recognition for their mastery and dedication to the once fleeting art. Peia was unable to attend the ceremony at the time but Tua attended and received his title. And as a thank you to Nainoa, Mau and their ancestors, the two men were challenged with a new task: the lifelong promise to teach others and continue to nurture this nearly lost tradition. Excited at the opportunity to fulfill that promise while bringing honor to his ancestors, soon after, Tua became involved in the Pacific Voyagers project, the brainchild of German philanthropist Dieter Paulmann. Dieter’s vision was to highlight the Pacific voyaging culture while raising awareness

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Clockwise from left: Tua (left) and Peia Patai (right) stand behind the crew on the steering oar; Tua and daughters; Relaxing on board; Adorned in ei's with his niece.

until he “raises the island” and ensures his family of 12 to 16 crew are safely ashore.

“Even after we went through squalls, we couldn’t see any stars but we used the swells and the wind acting on the canoe to keep the vaka on a certain course. And when the swells cleared up and the stars came out and we were still on course… about ocean issues. To achieve this, he funded the construction of seven canoes, gifted them to separate island nations, and offered a platform and the resources to expand and share Pacific voyaging traditions with the world.

An expansive, highly publicized, and epic voyage, the Pacific voyaging tradition, fueled by a resurgence in trained celestial navigators, received a much-desired boost. Because of the dedication of Mau, Nainoa, Tua, Peia, Jacko and others in Hawaii, the number of traditional navigators in Polynesia was raised to 20, when just 30 years ago there were none. While it’s clear Tua is proud of the young navigators for their ability to carry a once fleeting tradition forward, he refuses to acknowledge the significance in his role as a mentor to them, or the accomplishment of overcoming a deep fear of the sea with passion and tenacity. Tua would prefer to speak of the accomplishments of his peers, his apprentices and his children, rather than the genesis or hurdles of his own life path. “I’m a parent, when your child does well that’s a proud moment in your life. If they succeed in something that they do, it shows that maybe you’ve offered them the right advice at the right time to help them.”

It’s important to Tua that he offers sound advice, not just to his own children, but also to anyone or any organization who comes to him for support. He struggles daily to balance his many obligations, some of which include: the night sky tours that he leads around Rarotonga as a part of Island Discoveries; the 3 to 4 weddings per week he performs as a marriage celebrant; the hotel he co-manages; the fundraising efforts with Cook Islands Voyaging Society to continue training voyagers; events he emcees; and his newly accepted role as a lecturer aboard Silver Sea expeditions. His accomplishments combined with his physical presence, cheerful demeanor and articulated speech make him a charismatic, sought after figure in many circles, yet he isn’t quite sure he’s deserving of all the attention.

Throughout the voyage, Tua, Peia and New Zealand Pwo navigator Jacko Thatcher, took turns on each of the vaka, working with the new crop of young navigators through the various facets of their new trade. From New Zealand and on through the Pacific islands to California and the Galapagos, new navigators were aware of the immense responsibility associated with their roles. They were called upon around the clock, through squalls, lulls and sleep deprivation, common for navigators on every voyage. The navigator doesn’t rest

ESCAPE • 67

Left: Te Matua a Maui, Hine Moana (left) and Maramaru Atua (foreground) off the coast of Rarotonga.

to the pain and loss he has endured, beginning at a very young age. And even more respect for his courage in facing his fears, even when they are raw and on display to his community. “People are always going to have pain in their lives. Sometimes they don’t expect it to be the way it is; but that’s life and you’ve just got to rise up and move on.”

True to his humble nature Tua says, “I’ve never perceived myself as being a role model,” an acknowledgement that triggers a smattering of boyish banter which is on par with his sunny personality. When asked to expand upon his proudest moments, he quipped, “Well I can tell you what I’m not proud of.” “I know I’ve been given a lot of opportunities to talk to people about being better and so I take advantage of those opportunities,” he says as if embarrassed that I’ve noted his popularity in the community in asking why he juggles so many commitments. “I keep saying this, but I’m a proud Cook Islander. I like to ensure that my family, our community, our nation does well in everything they take on, which is why I get involved in so many different things. I never want to see anything Cook Islands fail.” While the majority of his commitments require him to draw upon his charisma, his culture, his adventures and his life experience, only one requires him to draw from his most vulnerable source—his pain. And it’s the only cause he supports that resonates from a wound deep within his soul, which is evident by the long deep breath he takes before telling me about his daughter.

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“I lost my daughter when she was 19. That was the hardest part of my life. She took her own life. And, that was the hardest and I still feel badly about that.”

While the pain will never be gone, Tua believes life has to carry on. Despite the thousands of miles of voyages, and the opportunities a life at sea has afforded him, his ultimate goal in life is simple: to support his remaining four children to let them know he is always there, no matter where he actually is.

For the annual Te Maeva Nui cultural festival last July, the dance team of Takitumu, the village in which Tua is a chief, or mataiapo, put together an action song based on the loss of life. Three dancers who used to dance in the team had passed away. Two took their own lives and one died in a motor vehicle accident.

“If I’m not there there, I’m just a phone call away” he jokes. Full of the same energy and excitement since he began voyaging decades ago, Tua hopes to pass on the mantle of leadership to the younger generation of voyagers.

“They came and asked me to do the opening chant based on how I felt about my daughter.”

“After thousands and thousands of miles of voyaging the old way, I’m at home out there now,” said Tua, a stark contrast from his younger self.

When Tua went out for the first chant, there wasn’t a dry eye in the house because the community knew what his family had been through. “As much as I was hurting, it felt good,” he said, as it had only been five years, “but I owed it to her too. She needed to know that she’s never forgotten and I’ll always be there to express the same energy that she always had in her life.” Tua’s description is emotional, his pain palpable, lending a deeper, harrowing understanding for his strong support of suicide prevention and his desire to give sound advice to any one in need, at any time. It also adds a level of sensitivity

As much an icon for voyaging in the Pacific as he is in his home country, Tua plans to remain a part of the vaka until he can no longer physically participate. Despite the monumental role he’s played in helping to ignite a once dying ember of his culture and his commitment to helping the Cook Islands succeed in any way he can, his humility remains steadfast “I’m just Tua Pittman and he just does what he has to do.”

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Story: Rachel Reeves Photos: Noel Bartley, Sabine Janneck, Sascha Schmitt The entrance to Anatakitaki Cave

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ll afternoon, the sky has been gray and the sea foamy with whitecaps. But at least two tourists – husbandwife couple Steve and Maureen – don’t consider today a waste of precious holiday time.

According to Cook Islands Tourism statistics, 99 percent of visitors to the Cook Islands engage in some kind of water activity. Snorkelling has been rated the most satisfying. Steve Lyon, who serves on the Tourism Industry Council, confirms that visitors give it a 4.6 out of a possible 5. The waters of Rarotonga and Aitutaki are a snorkeler’s Mecca – safe, shallow, and rich in marine life.

In Rarotonga they have fallen in love with snorkeling, and they have just learnt that squally weather might not be such an unfavourable thing. “We went out for about an hour and it just stunned me,” Steve says. “We got amongst it and I’ve never seen so many fish. I’m surprised, actually, that there aren’t more people out there [snorkeling].”

Sabine Janneck, who owns The Dive Centre – The Big Fish in Arorangi, smiles and nods as Steve talks. She explains that in rough seas, fish filter into the lagoon, which is always calmer than the seas beyond the reef. “That’s why we always tell everyone if it’s rainy or a bit choppy it’s still great for snorkeling,” Sabine says. “Plus, fish love the bubbles so they love the rain. Rain is not a reason not to go in the water. It doesn’t matter what the weather is doing. We have to consider the currents and conditions, of course, but this,” she says, pointing at the Aroa lagoon, “is a marine reserve and the reef comes very close to shore so it’s very safe and very shallow.” Steve and Maureen confirm that the lagoon, which here varies from 1.5 to 3 metres depending on the tide, has been far from intimidating. Neither counts swimming amongst their strengths, but both feel safe despite the stormy weather and despite their usual discomfort around water. Today, in fact, is the third day in a row Steve and Maureen have devoted to snorkeling in the Rarotonga lagoon. They have snorkeled under the sunshine and they’ve snorkeled in today’s rain, but in both cases they experienced a lagoon warm, clear, and full of fish. “It’s just stunning, the sheer quantity and range of fish,” Maureen says. “We saw one or two our first day and thought, ‘That’s pretty amazing,’ but it just got better and better.”

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and all of a sudden I see a big swarm of fish approaching,” Maureen says.

“It’s just stunning, the sheer quantity and range of fish,” Maureen says. “We saw one or two our first day and thought, ‘That’s pretty amazing,’ but it just got better and better.” As per Sabine’s advice, Steve has been swimming with two stones, tapping them together to pique the curiosity of underwater creatures. His initial doubts about whether the exercise would be effective have long dissipated. “The first day, Steve’s lying there, whacking these stones together, going, ‘It’s not working,’

Her hair is still damp and she and Steve haven’t eaten lunch, but they are happy to sit with me and talk, their enthusiasm evident. “Can’t get the smiles off their faces,” Sabine says, nodding in the direction of the Kiwi couple. “It was yellow-green,” Steve is saying. He laughs. “See – we use technical terms. But the range – we saw butterfly fish, rainbow-colored fish, brown-colored fish, big schools – we just sat there and watched them.” “Today we saw heaps of little ones,” Maureen adds. “I think we didn’t notice them before because we were so excited by the big ones, but there are such lovely, little ones as well.” According to Cook Islands Tourism statistics, 99 percent of visitors to the Cook Islands engage in some kind of water activity. Snorkelling has been rated the most satisfying. Steve Lyon, who serves on the Tourism Industry Council,

confirms that visitors give it a 4.6 out of a possible 5. The waters of Rarotonga and Aitutaki are a snorkeler’s Mecca – safe, shallow, and rich in marine life. “Rarotonga is fairly unique in that it has a close-fringing reef,” says Lyon, who also owns and operates Pacific Divers in Muri. “Fiji doesn’t have that. Tahiti’s lagoon is big and deep and there are a lot of sharks and if you’re worried about that sort of thing, as a mental perception, it’s there. The Rarotonga lagoon is particularly shallow and safe. “Aitutaki has one passage that’s manmade and it’s quite a contained and safe environment, as well. Larger islands in other places tend to have barrier reefs that aren’t contiguous. Ours are. That reef is a significant barrier to hazards.” Rarotonga has several snorkeling hotspots – Fruits of Rarotonga, a spot in Tikioki named for the café across the road, and the Aroa Lagoon in front of The Rarotongan Resort & Spa are the most popular, but there are a handful of others. Most dive shops publicize conditions and

ESCAPE • 73

currents daily, or are happy to make that information available for people who prefer to snorkel without the assistance of a guide. In October, the Pacific Islands Conservation Initiative (PICI) set up an “aquatic eco-trail” in Tikioki, on the south side of Rarotonga, in order to raise environmental awareness among visitors. Using New Zealand Aid Program funding, PICI has produced a map to facilitate a self-guided snorkeling tour of the lagoon. Pacific Resort Aitutaki, in collaboration with PICI, had already set up something similar, replete with buoys to mark particular habitats and a trail map. “We hope that will increase people’s experiences,” says Lyon, who is also PICI’s founder. “Rather than just gazing at the environment, they can learn about the fish and what types they are and why they’re there.” Pacific Divers also runs an evening snorkel trip for the more adventurous sort. The trip begins before sunset on the south side of Rarotonga’s lagoon, and ends in blackness. “The light illuminates the crustaceans, moray eels, octopus, sea urchins – you

get to see a different side of the reef,” Lyon says. “The daytime animals like parrotfish are asleep and you see soldierfish and squirrelfish come out at night. The air cools down, but the water stays warm and you’ve got a beautiful blanket of stars above you by the end of it.” And then there’s Aitutaki. Even Lyon, who owns and operates a business in Rarotonga, says snorkeling in Aitutaki is “next-level”. There are paua (giant clams), bonefish, and Napoleon wrasse, on top of the rays and fish and turtles that are also plentiful in the Rarotonga lagoon. “There’s different species of fish in our lagoon [than] Rarotonga’s,” says a local Aitutakian guide. Then, proudly: “There are a lot of species that aren’t even on the fish chart.” Whereas snorkeling spots off Rarotonga are accessible for swimmers and beachgoers, Aitutaki spots are further offshore because the lagoon is much broader. “Aitutaki requires some guiding,” says Lyon. “You can’t just go off the beach, but it’s a step up in the level of marine life and the beauty of what you see.” Both Steve Lyon and Sabine Janneck love the waters of the Cook Islands, and they are resolute about reminding guests, politely but firmly, to respect it. Both ask snorkelers not to stand on live coral or feed the fish.

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Story: Rachel Smith Photos: Brie Zeman

“Kia orana,” says our guide George Williams. “Pe’ea kotou?” A vague mumble of kia orana echoes back to him. “Kia orana,” George says again. This time we reply a little louder, and hesitantly roll the sounds of our reply ‘meitaki au’ back to him. “Aere mai,” he calls, and our Te Vara Nui village journey begins...

Te Vara Nui Village Tour 76 • ESCAPE

he full Te Vara Nui experience is more than the beat of the drums guiding dancers through the legend of Tongaiti, and it is more than eating your fill of the delicious local food. For owners Moana Hunter Nair and Fodil Nair, it was important to share the culture of the Cook Islands - where it’s people came from and how they got there, how traditions have evolved, the skills of medicine, fishing, dancing, and of course the coconut tree. For guides George, James Tuaputa and Papa Jake, it is sharing a little of their lives. George leads the way, taking us on a journey through Cook Islands history, in the Are Korero, or history hut. George says that other than learning a few dates, all of the historical knowledge is something that was part of his life, so it’s easy to share his wealth of knowledge. From the arrival of his people in huge double hulled vaka back in 875 AD, to the traditional Polynesian culture of warriors and cannibals, and the great migration to New Zealand in 1350 AD, George weaves his way through the history of the Cooks.

“They changed the whole way of life for our people,” George says of the arrival of the missionaries, with their influence easily apparent in the many churches around the island. It is the soft strumming of a ukulele, which interrupts his words, and calls us on to our second stop – the marae. The open aired sacred site, built as a replica based on others around the island, looks like a bunch of stones randomly placed to those without knowledge. Each rock however has a specific purpose and position, as within all marae. These sacred sites of tradition and ritual, like traditional leadership, play an important role in Cook Islands culture today. Traditional medicine is another area of life from centuries ago that is still in use today. Practiced only by those with expert knowledge, the taunga, traditional medicines make use of what nature creates - leaves, bark, roots and fruit of local plants which are then pounded, grated, cooked or fermented. Over a gently smoking fire in the Are Vai Rakau, or medicine hut, James shares just a little of this tapu (sacred) knowledge with us. He heats a piece of volcanic rock, fills a bowl with fresh nu (drinking coconut) and herbs of lemongrss and lime, adds the heated rock and before our eyes creates a steaming inhalation with a fragrant smell. James it turns out, is also a man who loves to fish. “There is so much to talk to you

...it was important to share the culture of the Cook Islands - where it’s people came from and how they got there, how traditions have evolved, the skills of medicine, fishing, dancing, and of course the coconut tree... about fishing we could stay here all night,” James says, during our visit to the Are Tautai, or fishing hut. It is easy to believe him as he tells us in detail about the hand carved vaka from the tamanu tree, beautiful clam shells the size of a small child, fishing nets made from kikau (coconut fibre) or bark from the au (wild hibiscus) tree. The weaving of natural fibres does not only have its use in practical purposes though. As it can be used to catch a fish, it can also be woven for the sake of beauty alone. The Are Rakai, or costume hut, is covered with such weaving, be it costumes, hats, fans, mats or bags. The drums beat and we clap our hands in time, as a young woman

ESCAPE • 77

from the crowd moves her hips gently to the beat and her kiriau grass skirt sways with her. No story of the Cook Islands would be complete without the coconut, justly known as the tree of life. The Are Akari pays homage to the one tree from which this country would not survive – roots for eel traps, the trunk for drums, bark burnt as a mosquito deterrent, leaves for weaving anything from a thatched roof to an intricate hat. And of course food – nu, the young coconut milk wonder drink, and the older coconut flesh grated and eaten as is, or transformed into delectable coconut cream.

This time the words ‘kia orana, meitaki au’ are strong and clear. Behind the words is now a glimpsed an understanding of the many strands which weave together Cook Islands culture.

fact file Te Vara Nui Village is open Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, with the village tour beginning at 5pm, followed by buffet dinner and the over water night show. Phone 24006 or visit www.tevaranui.co.ck for bookings and more information.

“Kia orana. Pe’ea kotou?” George asks us for the last time before he leads us into the restaurant.

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Book now! Ph: (682) 24006 www.tevaranui.co.ck 78 • ESCAPE

on the hook

Cook Islands Crayfish Story: Alan Syme

n the tropical paradise that is the Cook Islands, kaimoana (sea food) is highly valued as a food source by both locals and tourists alike. One of the tastiest and most sought after kaimoana is the crayfish. Koura in Maori, or crayfish in English, are quite plentiful throughout the islands of the Cooks group, particularly the outer islands. With a bit of local knowledge they can be relatively easy to catch once you know how, and if you have the right people to show you. They taste beautiful and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great fun filled adventure too! When eating out at one the restaurants you may notice crayfish on the menu. Chances are that it has been captured by hand at night on the barrier reef by one of the locals. The crayfish of the Cook Islands

are painted crayfish (Panulirus homarus & Panulirus versicolor, for those readers who are the scientific types). They look kind of similar to New Zealand crays but they have tinges of blue and green in their colouring. They are different in that they are herbivores, unlike the NZ meat eaters, so they come up onto the reef shallows at night to feed on the reef seaweed. This is when they can be captured by hand in thigh to ankle deep water, by walking along the reef and spotlighting them.

I have done this several times during my time in the Cooks and the novelty factor is very apparent. I still find it hard to comprehend that you can regularly catch large crayfish by hand, in the shallows without even snorkeling or putting your head under the water. It is truly a unique, exciting and adrenaline filled adventure that not many tourists know about, or get the chance to participate in. You could be one of the lucky few to participate in a real life local adventure!

I certainly do not recommend trying this yourself, but if you ask around, one of the expert locals may be willing to take you out with them to show you how it is done. These folks are experts and can spot and catch them effectively as they have developed and honed the technique over their lifetime.

If this all sounds too adventurous for you, you can still enjoy the bounty of the stunning Pacific Ocean by seeking out Cook Island crayfish on the menu instead!

While many people go to the store for food, some locals go to the reef. On certain moon phases (Arapo) the crays are more active and therefore easier to catch than at other times. Locals know where to go, when to go, the tides and the sea conditions or hazards to be aware of.

ESCAPE â&#x20AC;˘ 79

Atiu Enua Manu

Re-discovering nature and solitude on ‘the island of birds’. tracks and points of interest including the coral garden, sinkholes and fabulous little beaches ideal for shell collecting or leisurely lolling in the warm, pristine sea.

here are few places left in the world like Atiu, an island with just over 500 people and acres and acres of untouched rainforest and coastal bush. There are no western bars (apart from the small one at Atiu Villas), bright neon lights or busy roads. For travellers searching for an island paradise, Atiu is it. Most overseas visitors to Atiu lament on departure that they wish they’d organised a longer stay on this unspoiled island gem, full of captivating history, scenery and friendly people. The Anatakitaki Cave walk is the perfect offering for visitors who want an unforgettable nature experience. On the day we went, we were guided by Marshall Humphreys. Married to Atiuan Jeanne, Marshall is proud of Atiu conservation and how the locals “always leave a bit for the next day, like when they go fishing and catch just enough to eat.” He’s also impressed with the way the island works as a community.

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Reasonable fitness and covered shoes are needed for the trek through tropical forest that resembles a fantastically overgrown garden. Regarded by environmentalists as a national treasure, Anatakitaki Cave is home to the Kopeka bird, a swallow unique to Atiu, which like a bat, navigates its way in the pitch black caverns using sonar. The towering limestone caverns contain cauliflower coral, proving that the caves were once beneath the sea, as these coral formations only occur underwater. There are huge stalactites reaching to the cavern floor and massive stalagmites sparkling as though they are embedded with millions of diamonds. The magnificence of the caverns is breathtaking. Another tour takes you to Rimarau Burial Cave that includes visits to age old marae and “walking the dramatic route taken by hundreds as they went to meet their death in ancient times.” If beaches, historic sights and panoramic scenery also appeal, opt for an island tour. It offers contrasting scenery, drives through shady roads and forest thick with ancient trees to coastal

George Mateariki, better known as Birdman George, takes us on his morning tour – first stop is to catch a glimpse of the endangered Kakerori bird. We are a bit startled as George begins loudly beeping his car horn as we near the nesting ground. He explains that being inquisitive birds, Kakerori are drawn to unusual noises. He calls to them, walking through the picturesque bush and making kissing noises. The birds do not disappoint, replying with their call sounds. To see Kakerori so close is a real treat, as they were once on the brink of extinction. Along the way, George points out medicinal plants and how they are used to treat various ailments. “I love my history and everything I know about Atiu was taught to me by my grandfathers,” says George. A fun experience is a visit to one of the legendary Atiu tumunu – ‘clubs’, where local men gather to drink homebrew and chat about island affairs, with clear rules about conduct. Often there’s a stringband for added entertainment. Visitors are

Most overseas visitors to Atiu lament on departure that they wish they’d organised a longer stay on this unspoiled island gem, full of captivating history, scenery and friendly people. always welcome to stop in, partake of a cup of the local brew and meet the locals. “There’s money in the land,” says Mata Arai, pointing to her coffee bushes laden with ripe berries. Mata is an industrious Atiuan woman who produces the 100 percent Atiu Island Coffee using a technique she learnt from her grandmother as a child. It’s a process all done by hand. Atiu Island Coffee can be purchased from Mata’s home, in Atiu stores, or supermarkets on Rarotonga. For someone who “never wanted to be a coffee grower” Juergen Manske produces Atiu Coffee, some of the finest coffee to be found in the region. He and artist wife, Andrea Eimke settled in Atiu some 23 years ago. Discovering acres of coffee plantations, Juergen took 20 kilos to Europe to have it checked out. The verdict – “terrific coffee,” says Juergen. “We established that it is arabica coffee

with very low caffeine content.” Coffee connoisseurs should take Juergen’s informative tour of plantations and factory, ending with a tasting on the verandah of their home at Atiu Fibre Arts Gallery. The Atiu Fibre Arts Gallery is definitely on the ‘to visit’ list when on Atiu. Andrea Eimke’s exquisite technicoloured tivaivai (quilting) is displayed, along with other textile art. Completing an embroidery apprenticeship before settling on Atiu, then seeing what local women were doing “the dies were cast, I was hooked” says Andrea. And so it all started with one sewing machine, a lot of inspiration and the desire to preserve traditional knowledge and skills, plus creating jobs for local women. Today, Atiu Fibre Arts Studio has developed into an enterprise that produces world class textile art, drawing students for workshops on Atiu from far afield.

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ESCAPE • 81

birds of Paradise Story: Rachel Reeves Photos: Noel Bartley

akutea is a key breeding ground for the seabirds of the Pacific. “The seabird colonies of Takutea are the largest and most important in the Southern Cook Islands,” reads a report published by the Cook Islands Natural Heritage Project. And perhaps this is because the island has remained unpopulated for centuries. When Captain Cook visited this part of the world in 1777, most of the Cook Islands were inhabited, but Takutea had only empty huts. Today, the 120-hectare atoll remains uninhabited – an ideal breeding ground for red-tailed tropicbirds and masked boobies. The island is home to thousands of seabirds, with notable populations of tavake (red-tailed tropicbirds), kota’a (frigatebirds), and brown boobies. A designated bird and wildlife sanctuary, Takutea is owned by the people of Atiu and administered by the island’s aronga mana – traditional leaders – and council. “The people of Atiu own the island,” explained Ada Nicholls, who holds the Rongomatane Ariki title, making her one of Atiu’s three high chiefs. “But there are seven trustees – three ariki (high chiefs) and four mataiapo tutara (also chiefs).”

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For an uninhabited island, Takutea has a colourful history. Gifted to the British Empire in 1903, it was for decades a hub of copra production. But in 1938, a dispute prompted the court to open an investigation into its ownership. Over a decade later, the court declared it the property of all Atiuan people, and named its present administrators. Over the years there have been several pushes to derive economic return from Takutea – ideas have included toa (ironwood) production, a revival of the copra industry, tourism, and even the construction of an airstrip – but all have failed. The seabird colonies continue to thrive as a result. Today, the people of Atiu do visit Takutea on occasion to harvest paua (clams) or copra, but out of respect for the wildlife sanctuary, they generally abide by two unofficial rules. “Informally everybody knows they’re not allowed to pull feathers out of live tropicbirds and they’re not allowed to harvest birds in general, but the only one they’d really want to harvest is the kaparere, which is the name for the tavake when it’s at harvest stage,” said

the director of the Cook Islands Natural Heritage Project, Gerald McCormack. Periodically, the trustees of Takutea permit tourist groups to go ashore. “The tourists can go over there but they have to ask permission through us,” Rongomatane Ariki said. “Usually there is a certain amount of money tourists pay to go ashore, and it comes back to the bank for the people of Atiu.” But McCormack has concerns about the potential expansion of tourism on Takutea. “One problem is the brown booby nests where boats land,” McCormack said. “People don’t see the nest until it’s too late, and when the young are approached they go away from the nest and are often not found again.” People who venture further inland, he said, could also disturb the frigates that nest in the trees, which are only about five metres high. “Takutea is sort of a controversial issue,” McCormack said, “but in theory the trustees can do what they like with it, as long as it’s in the best interests of the people of Atiu.”

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Marshall’s Discovery the Atiu Coffee Factory IslandVisit Tour, Anatakitaki and plantations. Kopeka Bird Caves, Rimarau Taste organically-grown and Burial Cave.our Secluded Arabica coffee. beaches,sun-dried tropical rainforest, amazing caves, rich bird life, www.atiu-coffee.com ESCAPE • 83 fascinating archeology & legends.

Our South Pacific home a

sprinkling of island gems on an indigo blue ocean... The Cook Islands combined make up a land area of just 240 square kilometers. They are scattered far and wide in the vast expanse of the South Pacific Ocean, covering a total area of 2.25 million square kilometers. Each of these ‘gems’ is unlike any other; all having their own special characteristics and every one offering a warm welcome to visitors.

The Southern Group Atiu See our story on page 80. Takutea Just a few miles off the coast of Atiu lies the uninhabited island of Takutea. Numerous seabirds thrive on this pristine

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island that has been declared a bird sanctuary by the Atiu Island Council. Only they can give permission for visitors to land there. Mauke The garden island of the Cook group, Mauke is 18 kilometres around. It is surrounded by makatea (fossilised coral) with a volcanic plateau in the centre. Parts of the foreshore are dotted with isolated white sandy coves and caves that one can swim in. Inland there are fresh water caves and the famous Motuanga Cave that has galleries reaching beneath the reef. The reef is so close to the foreshore that crashing white breakers are visible from most of the unsealed coral road that runs around the island. Do visit the “divided church” built where the villages of Ngatiarua and Areora meet. Shared by the

two villages, it has two separate entrances and sitting areas. There are clean and comfortable places to stay in Mauke - try Ri’s Retreat or Tiare Holiday Cottages. They can also organise cave, reef and forest tours. Be sure to obtain a garland of the fragrant maire, a creeper that grows along the makatea. Mauke is picturesque, unhurried and tranquil – a wonderful tonic for frayed nerves! See our Mauke story on page 50. Mitiaro Of the cluster of islands in the southern group called Nga Pu Toru, Mitiaro would be the least visited by tourists. Not because it is any less beautiful than sister islands Atiu and Mauke, but simply that it is the least known. In the centre of Mitiaro are two lakes full of itiki, freshwater eels. Mitiaro itiki are considered a delicacy in

left: Mauke below: Takutea

the Cook Islands. Tilapia (bream) are also abundant in the lakes. The lakes are from time to time protected by a traditional raui, a prohibition on all fishing to preserve stocks. At its widest point, the island is 6.4 km across and private gardens in the village are beautifully kept and neat. Community activities include fishing, sports, handicrafts and uapou, or village singsongs. Pretty and unspoiled, life on Mitiaro is refreshingly uncomplicated.

Mangaia Imagine visiting a fairly large island where you and maybe a handful of others are the only tourists? Mangaia is an island of incredible, serene beauty – from its rugged coastline to the lush, green interior. It is peaceful beyond belief for those accustomed to the constant rush and haste of the outside world. This is a place where one can trek for miles along the coast or in the interior and not meet another soul or hear a vehicle. Nor see any dwellings, just lots of well-tended plantations of pineapples, vegetables, taro, kumara and other crops. Deep-sea fishing excursions are available – just ask your host Jan Kristensson of Ara Moana Bungalows or Ura, who manages Babe’s Motel. They can also steer you in

the right direction for guided tours that include caving, reef/lagoon walks and bush walks. Check out the market on Friday mornings in the ‘town’ centre and the craftwork by the skilled Mangaian women. The shell necklaces and woven pandanus bags are labour intensive and sold for very reasonable prices. Mangaia is the destination for those who love the outdoors, appreciate peace and quiet and want to experience a friendly island that’s not in the least “touristy.” Palmerston Made famous by Englishman William Marsters, who settled there in 1863 with three wives. He later married and raised a large family. Marsters’ modern day descendents are scattered all over the world. About 60 still remain in Palmerston,

which has six motu or islets in a big blue lagoon about 11 km across. The family exports fish, supplying in particular, parrot fish to Rarotonga restaurants. Palmerston hosts the occasional cruise ship and yachts frequently call in. The island also boasts one of the world’s most isolated bars, where thirsty yachties can enjoy a “cold one” and hear tales being regaled by the islanders. It is 500 km NW of Rarotonga. Manuae Manuae is an uninhabited nature reserve and an important seabird and turtle breeding ground. Its two islets in a large shallow lagoon make-up this incredibly beautiful island, situated about 100 km SE of Aitutaki. Many Aitutakians can claim traditional land rights to parts of Manuae.

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left: Pukapuka opposite page: Penrhyn

Its remoteness has also kept the traditions and culture of Pukapuka largely unchanged for centuries.

Once inhabited by work gangs of Cook Islands men who produced copra, it is now only occasionally visited by Aitutaki fisherman for its rich fishing grounds outside and within the lagoon. It is possible to view Manuae from the air, on a flight from Atiu to Aitutaki.

The Northern Group Suwarrow Suwarrow is one of the few "untouched" sanctuaries left in the world where existing endangered species can survive. The Suwarrow National Park is the first National Park in the Cook Islands - international environmental groups recognise the group of tiny atolls as an untouched haven and breeding area for turtles, sea birds and crabs. Because of the lack of human intervention, Suwarrow is acknowledged as one of the most important sea bird breeding areas in the Pacific. A caretaker and his family live on Suwarrow during the cyclone off-season, between April and November each year. Yachts often visit the island during these months. Suwarrow was made famous by New Zealand hermit Tom Neale, who lived there during the early 1950’s and again in the early 1960’s. He wrote about his experiences in his book “An Island to Oneself.”

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According to legend, almost 500 years ago the Pukapuka population was almost entirely wiped out during a catastrophic storm that struck the island. Fourteen people survived, from whom Pukapukan’s today are said to descend. Pukapuka Lying northwest 1150 km from Rarotonga, Pukapuka is one of the most isolated islands of the Cook group. One interisland flight from Rarotonga about every six weeks and irregular shipping has kept Pukapuka one of the most untouched and secluded places in the Pacific. Its remoteness has also kept the traditions and culture of Pukapuka largely unchanged for centuries. Islanders speak the distinct Pukapukan language as well as Cook Islands Maori. According to legend, almost 500 years ago the Pukapuka population was almost entirely wiped out during a catastrophic storm

that struck the island. Fourteen people survived, from whom Pukapukan’s today are said to descend. The late American writer Robert Dean Frisbie settled there in 1924 and immortalised Pukapuka in the books he wrote about life on the island. The now uninhabited area where he lived with his Pukapuka wife and children is one of the most beautiful – an untouched white sandy beach with palm trees reaching out to tease the clear blue lagoon. Nassau Access to this tiny island of about 80 Pukapukans can only be gained by interisland boat. Regarded as the sister island of Pukapuka, a voyage from Rarotonga takes about three days. The islanders are adept at surviving an isolated lifestyle that remains unchanged year after year. Nassau was hooked up to the country’s telephone system only in 2001 and many of the people had never used a telephone before. Just 1.2 sq. km in size, where families live in kikau thatched cottages.

Manihiki The cultured black pearl capital of the Cook Islands. Quality black pearls become centrepieces for fine jewellery that are worn by women and men all over the world. In 1997, the island survived one of the worst cyclones in Cook Islands history. It claimed 20 lives after a tidal wave swept men, women and children out into the huge, raging lagoon. Pearl farms dot this remarkable lagoon. Villagers use small

Penrhyn (or Tongareva) is the most remote of the Cook group, lying 1365 km NNE of Rarotonga. It has a remarkable blue water lagoon measuring 233 sq km. A 77-km coral reef encircles the islets in the extraordinary lagoon.

outboard boats to travel between Tukao and Tauhunu – two villages on separate islets – or to their pearl farms set up on coral outcrops. Some of the pearl farms are sophisticated operations jutting out of the deep blue lagoon, complete with small gardens and poultry farms that help support workers who live in modern quarters. Manihiki women have made history for entering what was once a male dominated vocation. A number of women own and manage their own pearl farms, diving, seeding and cleaning the oyster shells all year around. The women are also renowned for their finely woven craftwork. Manihiki is astonishingly beautiful and those who have been fortunate enough to visit the island, have never been disappointed.

Rakahanga Sister island of Manihiki and 42km north-west. Visits to Rakahanga are only possible by boat from Manihiki or interisland vessel. There are two main islands and seven islets in the Rakahanga lagoon. The island is picturesque and unspoiled. Penrhyn Penrhyn (or Tongareva) is the most remote of the Cook group, lying 1365 km NNE of Rarotonga. It has a remarkable blue

water lagoon measuring 233 sq km. A 77-km coral reef encircles the islets in the extraordinary lagoon. The villages of Tetautua and Omoka are on different islets that are barely visible to each other. Penrhyn island women make the finest rito craftwork in the Cook Islands. Hats, bags, fans and mats made in Penrhyn are amongst the best to be found anywhere in the world.

check out the amazing at Muri Lagoon An effortless way to have fun while exploring Muri Lagoon. A great platform for swimming and snorkelling. Each Treddlecat is equipped with an anchor and dry stowage places, so you can take a picnic, dry clothes, camera etc with you. Check it out on the beach at Muri Beach Club Hotel. A 16 ft sailing dingy also available for competent sailors plus lessons for novices

Ensure you get your ride when you want it... ESCAPE • 87 pH Ken on 26668 | EMAiL upwind@oyster.net.ck

great places to stay

Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa

elax by the pool with a tropical cocktail, soak up the sun, rejuvenate your soul, and luxuriate in the warmth of a romantic evening under the stars, with exotic foods and fine wine. Whatever your Cook Islands holiday dream consists of, you can be sure there is a style of accommodation to suit your taste and attentive staff to make all those dreams come true. From deluxe beach resorts to simple budget facilities, you can choose your own standard or quality and plan according to your budget. Here on these pages, we bring you some of the nicest places to stay on Rarotonga.

happy holidays!

Look for this symbolâ&#x20AC;Ś The Cook Islands Tourism Accreditation Scheme is designed to set minimum standards. It will assist you in your choice of where to stay, what to see and what to do. Wherever you see this sign you can be sure that the accommodation establishment, restaurant, retailer, tour or activity operator has met minimum requirements to ensure you of good service, good facilities, safe practices and of course friendly Cook Islands hospitality. All accommodation establishments and restaurants, together with most businesses advertising within this magazine, are members of the accreditation scheme. We highly recommend that visitors use their services. For more information contact your nearest Cook Islands Tourism Corporation office.

www.cookislands.travel 88 â&#x20AC;˘ ESCAPE

Aro’a Beachside Inn Beachfront accommodation | Self contained Swimming & snorkelling at your doorstep On the western, leeward side of Rarotonga Daily tropical breakfasts & sunsets Home of the ‘Shipwreck Hut’

Phone (682) 22166

www.aroabeach.com

18 self-catering air conditioned villas set amongst tropical gardens and across the road from its own stunning beach and reserve. Ideal for couples and families.

phone: +68 2 22020 fax: +68 2 22021 reservations@lagoonbreezevillas.com www.lagoonbreezevillas.com

www.muribeachclubhotel.com RAROTONGA COOK ISLANDS

elax

Retr e at

,R e

R & e viv

Absolute Beachfront Sanctuary for 18yrs and over Premium Wedding Specialists Delightful Polynesian Cuisine at SilverSands Restaurant & Bar Onsite Beauty & Spa

P. (682) 23 000 info@muribeachclubhotel.com

Reconnect with life at our Romantic Island Hideaway. Enjoy child-free tranquillity in a perfect beachside setting. P: (682) 28465 E: sunhaven@beachbungalows.co.ck www.mysunhaven.com

ESCAPE • 89

ont Prime beachfr location! Idyllically set on the shores of a sheltered lagoon this intimate beachfront resort enjoys stunning sunsets.

Situated in the heart of popular Muri Beach, our 22 tastefully furnished spacious units & villas are air-conditioned & self-catering. Complimentary kayaks, SUP’s, snorkelling gear, transfers. Friendly staff ensure you of a memorable ‘Rarotongan’ experience.

beachcomber.co.ck | muri@beachcomber.co.ck

35 spacious self-catering studios and suites are situated either on the beachfront overlooking the lagoon or beside either of the two swimming pools amid lush tropical gardens. The resort features an open-air restaurant open for breakfast, lunch and dinner 7 days a week.

Phone: (682) 28028 Email: welcome@thesunsetresort.com www.thesunsetresort.com

COOK ISLANDS

• • • •

P. 682 21 022

Heron’s Reef

n affordable seaside retreat in a tropical garden, situated on a quiet beach. Located at Matavera, just 5 mins from Muri Beach and 10 mins from Avarua. Three well-appointed comfortable units, fully equipped with kitchens. One deluxe unit, The Nautilus, overlooks the lagoon and ocean. The Bougainvillea Studio & Ferns One-bedroom have outdoor patios, mountain views and full use of beachfront. Linen/towels are supplied. Weekly servicing or more often on request.

Ph (682) 26487 Fax (682) 26485 www.tamarind.co.ck

Relax Leave the detail to us

...

Accommodation at reduced rates Outer Islands travel packages Fast, reliable & friendly service One stop shop for travel, foreign exchange & money transfers

Phone (682) 27707 | Fax (682) 28807 Email Jetsave@cooks.co.ck www.jetsave.co.ck 90 • ESCAPE

Your Cook Islands accommodation and travel specialists

P UAIKURA R L ™

EEF

ODGES

Your private piece of paradise!

Great value, idyllic location, gorgeous white sandy beach, perfect for the family... Enquire now for competitive rates at our popular motel and private holiday homes.

Beachfront and garden bungalows | onsite restaurant and bar personal wedding co-ordinator | rarotonga’s quiet southern coast

PHONE (682) 23537 ACCOMMODATION@PUAIKURA.CO.CK WWW.PUAIKURA.CO.CK

po Box 23, rarotonga, cook islands p: +682 20002 f: +682 21998 email: beach@palmgrove.co.ck www.palmgrove.net

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entertainment guide

Take in the sunset with a cocktail near the water; catch an Island Night Show with beautiful dancers, & get down to live Cook Islands music & dancing around town.

Overwater Island Night Show - Te Vara Nui Village

Raro’s night life is special – you can have a great night out whether you’re on your own, or with friends. 18 or 80 years old, it doesn’t matter, everyone just gets together. And you’ll feel welcome wherever you go. Island Night Shows are a must for every visitor. There is nothing better than seeing our beautiful men and women, adorned in flowers and local costume, dancing to the

wonderful pate (hollowed wooden drums), ukulele, guitar, and full voiced singers. It is a joyful, sensual and exuberant experience. Check out our Island Night Shows Guide on these pages to find a venue that suits you.

During the week On Monday night at the RSA (or “Razza”), just opposite the Airport, DJ MacDad gets a great crowd going at around 9pm till 12 midnight. A number of Rarotonga restaurants feature live music during the week - refer to our Night Life Guide for details of what’s on, when and where. It’s great to wander into some of our smaller local bars too - the Game Fishing Club is right on the water; meet the locals and play some pool. Chillies Bar is great for a cold beer and occasionally some footie watching on their big screen. Both of these bars are just east of

For times when time doesn ’ t mat ter When good company and great conversation come together, afternoon fades to evening, evening 92 • ESCAPE turns to night and life feels good. What better times to enjoy our much-awarded Marlborough wine.

town. The Nu Bar is a wonderful little local bar/restaurant near the airport, serving great value food and a nice selection of music. Also try Hideaway Bar in Cooks Corner, for a more eclectic feel. On the eastern side of the island, the Avana If you’re staying around the Muri or Titikaveka area, try Silver Sands Restaurant at Muri Beach Club Hotel, Sails Restaurant, Flame Tree Restaurant for a la carte dining and some local music, or perhaps Pacific Resort for their Island Night show. For casual ambience, check out the Asian street-style food at The Rickshaw, or mouthwatering Mexican dishes at La Casita.

s r a l l e c 1 . o Your N

Remember that it pays to make a reservation if visiting a restaurant, to avoid disappointment; and if you want music with your meal, ask who their resident singer is that night. Check the local paper or ask your resort what’s happening at the local sports clubs – join in for some good live music, cheap drinks, and great company. Local women enjoy dressing up, and the men prefer comfortable shorts, shirt/t-shirt and sandals, but dress code is open.

Friday Night Friday night is party night, as clubs and bars can open until 2am, unlike every other night, which is 12 midnight. Downtown Avarua is a great place to start: First up is a sunset cocktail at either Trader Jacks, Café Salsa, or Whatever Bar where there’s always a nice mix of locals and tourists. After a couple of hours, walk across the road to the Garden Bar at the BC (Banana Court), known all over the Pacific. BC’s Garden Bar features local bands from 4pm to 9pm and then its inside for some raw local music and dancing. Trader Jack’s ‘Boogieman’ band, with some of our best musos on the island, starts around 8pm. Hidies Bar, located in Cooks Corner, has a big open-air dance floor, great drinks, a true island flavour and is Rarotonga’s iconic local hangout, with live bands and resident DJ. Open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, Hidies famed ‘Happy Hour’ runs Friday from 4-7pm. Later in the night it’s back to Whatever Bar for some dancing, or perhaps try Rehab (near Whatever Bar), for some of the latest hip hop, R’n’B, and techno sounds. The great thing about this town is that the bars are only minutes away from each other. It’s safe and people are friendly and will give you directions. Remember to organise a dedicated driver or taxi if you’re drinking.

e ra n g e … g u h r u o t u o Check Over 600 wines, all popular brand spirits, liqueurs, beers, RTD’s, mixers, ice, etc. Wedding and special occasion catering, party-hire, we deliver!

! l l a m e h t t o We’ve g

CORUBA

An organized Nightlife Tour is another great way to enjoy your Friday night and you won’t need to do the driving. The Edgewater Resort & Spa and The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa both run their own legendary ‘Pub Crawls’. Be sure to book in advance to avoid disappointment.

BACARDI

ABSOLUTE KAHLUA

ALLAN SCOTT

JACK DANIELS

BOMBAY SAPPHIRE

JOHNNIE WALKER

OYSTER BAY

PENFOLDS

TIA MARIA DELEGATS DRAMBUIE COINTREAU

VILLA MARIA WOLF BLASS MUDHOUSE

McGUIGANS CASTLEMAN XXXX TOOHEYS VB STEINLAGER

In central Avarua, opposite Punanga Nui Marketplace Open Mon - Thur 9 to 5 | Fri & Sat 9 to 7 ESCAPE • 93 Phone: 21007 Email: trish@thebond.co.ck

entertainment guide

Rarotonga night-life guide

Keep our roads safe if you’re drinking:

Monday

Dial a driver: 55580 / 55512 / 55515 Taxis: Refer to yellow pages and book homecoming fare before you go out. Clockwise Bus: Evening bus departs Cook’s Corner clockwise only, every hour Monday to Thursday and Saturday from 6pm to 11pm. Friday evenings from 6pm to 10pm and 12 midnight to 2am.

Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Te Rau Maire dance troupe | Island Feast and Cultural Show RSA (“The Razza”): Local DJ Pumping dance music from 9pm Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights Edgewater Resort & Spa: Tok 6:30-8:30 Great Classic tunes, jazz, pop, rock

SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live island music | Nooroa & Soko on island strings Pacific Resort: Papa Jake, Danny Mataroa and Te Korero Maori Dance Troupe - Polynesia Night Show & Dinner, on the beach Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Fire Dance and Island BBQ @ $49 pp + Karaoke

Island Night Shows – Quick Guide

TUESDAY

(Bookings are recommended)

Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Seafood Night with entertainment

Monday Phone

Aro’a Beachside Inn: Garth Young on keyboard Great beachside BBQ and classic tunes

Crown Beach Resort & Spa Pacific Resort Rarotonga The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa

23953 20427 25800

Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Band A la carte menu with live entertainment

Tuesday Edgewater Resort & Spa Te Vara Nui Village Samade on the Beach, Aitutaki

25435 24006 31526

Wednesday Beaches @ Manuia Beach Resort 22461 Highland Paradise 21924 The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa 25800 SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel 23000

Thursday Crown Beach Resort & Spa Staircase Restaurant & Bar Te Vara Nui Village Tamanu Beach, Aitutaki

Bluewater Grill @ Sanctuary Rarotonga-onthe-beach: Live entertainment with Tara Kauvai

23953 22254 24006 31810

Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ta’akoka Dance Troupe | Island NightBuffet and Cultural show SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live music with Ephraima on keyboards Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live music with guest artist Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Spices of Asia Mongolian BBQ @ $36 pp + crab racing and Karaoke Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show &Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet

WEDNESDAY

Friday Club Bana Bistro Highland Paradise Pacific Resort Rarotonga Pacific Resort, Aitutaki

23236 21924 20427 31720

Saturday Edgewater Resort & Spa Te Vara Nui Village

25435 24006

Beaches Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Interactive island experience, with cultural activities, dancing, island buffet, and fire show Edgewater Resort & Spa: Local Band A la carte Seafood menu with local entertainment SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:Island Night Extravaganza | Top Akirata Dance Troup Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live music with guest artist

Remember you’re in Raro now, on ‘Island Time’, so relax and enjoy!

Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: ‘Legends of Polynesia’ Island Night UMU Feast & Drum Dance Show @ $49 pp + Karaoke

Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys A la carte menu with great local sounds Garden Bar - Banana Court: Live Entertainment Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:Live music with the sweet sounds of Cathy on keyboard Pacific Resort: Leilani & Co on keyboard & guitar Originals, classics & soulful r’n’b Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Reef & Beef night @ $36 pp with mellow musical accompaniment by Andre Tapena. Windjammer Restaurant: First class dining with piano by Garth Young Whatever Bar: Great value meals with local music

FRIDAY

Beaches Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Enjoy the sounds of Manuia Beach Resorts famous string band with Natua and the boys Cafe Salsa: Live entertainment with great music & fabulous food Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Band T-Bone Steak Night with live entertainment Edgewater Resort & Spa: Tok 6:30–8:30 Dining with great local music + Edgewater Resorts “Nitelife Tour” Garden Bar - Banana Court: Great local & upbeat music with bar snacks available Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights Pacific Resort:Tamariki Manuia Island Night Show on the beach Rehab: Boogie night with local DJ. Hip-hop, R’n’B, Techno SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Pig & Prawn Night | With live music by Lei Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Flame-Grilled Steak Night @ $36 pp + The Rarotongan’s famous Friday Funbus Nitelife Tour @ $25 pp. Trader Jacks: Boogieman - rock classics & seafood, steaks & pizza Whatever Bar:Live Band &DJ T. Bone steak, fish, burgers

SATURDAY

Aroa Beachside Inn: Great Seafood Beachside BBQ & the island music of Papa Jake Numanga Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Entertainment A la carte menu with local & classic tunes

Whatever Bar: Local string band 7-9pm

Edgewater Resort& Spa: Island Night Buffet & Cultural Show with Orama Dance Group

THURSDAY

Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights

Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Pub Night menu with live entertainment Aro’a Beachside Inn: Sunset cocktails with live music by Rudy Aquino

94 • ESCAPE

Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Akirata dance troupe | Island Night Show & Dinner

Pacific Resort: Tok 6:30-8:30 Great Classics, jazz, rock, r’n’b Rehab: DJ. Hip hop, R’n’B’, dance night

Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Fire Dance Show & Island BBQ @ $49 pp + Karaoke Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Firedance Show & Island Barbeque + Karaoke Whatever Bar: Scrumptuous menu with live music by local string band

SUNDAY

Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Sunday Carvery Roast @ $36 pp with Tok on guitar

Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Live entertainment with Greig Mose Pacific Resort: Fire dancing show – fabulous a la carte menu

Aitutaki night-life guide MONDAY

Bounty Brasserie @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Spa: Fire dance show, a la carte dinner & crab BBQ with live entertainment races Tupuna’s Restaurant: Great a-la-carte Bluewater Grill @ Sanctuary Rarotonga-ondining with the freshest local foods in a the-beach: Live entertainment with Tara Kauvai relaxed garden setting. Mon-Sat from 6pm Club Raro: BBQ night with local string band Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Roast Night with TUESDAY live entertainment Samade OnThe Beach: Island buffet and cultural show on the sandy beach at Ootu Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys -local string band WEDNESDAY SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Beach Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: A good evening BBQ Grill Night from $25 pp + live music with to visit and meet the locals. Where else would Papa Jake Numanga. you find a bar in a 20 foot container? Pacific Resort: Fine dining with local and mixed melodies by Thomas Rauru

The Boatshed Bar & Grill: Check out this popular restaurant any day of the week. A-lacarte menu for lunch & dinner. Great cocktails!

THURSDAY

Tamanu Beach: Island Fire &Dance Show on the beach. Fantastic entertainment with a great selection of food

FRIDAY

Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: One of the most popular local bars to visit for a sun-downer Coconut Crusher Bar: Entertainment and party the night away with your host Ricky Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Live entertainment with Greig Mose. | Funbus Nitelife Tour @ $35 pp Pacific Resort Aitutaki: Island Night & Show With great local entertainment and food

SUNDAY

Samade On The Beach: Barbeque with great entertainment Tamanu Beach: Sunset Barbeque Night with great local entertainment and island food

Prices or schedules are subject to change at any time.

ESCAPE • 95

what's on

hroughout the year we find many reasons to celebrate and have fun, and there’s always plenty to do and see on Rarotonga and her sister islands. As most Cook Islanders are willing sports participants, you’ll find a multitude of sports codes and clubs active throughout the islands, where you are always welcome to visit. As for festivals and celebratory events, it is certain that you will always find something of interest taking place.

April Aperira

JUNE Tiunu

Sat 5th Tennis Open – Nikao Tennis Grounds

Mon 2nd Queens Birthday – public holiday

Thu 17th Te Mire Ura – National Dancer of the Year Competitions commence

Kumete Sports (athletics) Venue - BCI Stadium

School Term 1 complete – School Holidays begin Fri 18th Good Friday – public holiday Sat 19th Te Mire Ura – National Dancer of the Year Junior & Intermediate Finals

Sun 3rd Te Maeva Nui Celebrations Choir & Imene Tuki (traditional hymns)

Sat 7th Opera in Rarotonga. Opera classics with a Pacific flavour. Venue – Crown Beach Resort

Mon 4th National Self Governing Commemorative Day – public holiday

Thu 12th – Sat 14th Scotty’s Rarotonga Amateur Golf Open Sat 14th Town v’s Country Rugby 10’s

Fri 25th ANZAC Day

Sat 21st Rugby 15’s season commences (all grades)

JULY Tiurai

May Me

Fri 4th ‘Ra o te Ui Ariki’ – public holiday

Thur 1st Te Mire Ura – National Dancer of the Year Open Senior National Finals Venue - National Auditorium

Sat 5th 6th International Taekwon-Do Oceania Championships

Mon 5th School Term 2 begins Thu 8th International Triathlon Week Commences With Trader Jack’s Boiler Swim

Sat 2nd Constitution 7’s tournament

Tue 3rd – Mon 9th Pacific Netball Tournament

Mon 21st Easter Monday – public holiday

Air New Zealand ANZAC Golf Tournament (date TBC)

Fri 1st Te Maeva Nui float parade - downtown Avarua

Thu 17th Cook Islands Ministry of Education Careers Expo 2013 Sat 19th Atiu Gospel Day

Mon 4th to Thu 7th Te Maeva Nui Celebrations Island Trade & Food Days and cultural performances Fri 8th Manihiki Gospel Day – public holiday Manihiki Sat 9th Te Maeva Nui Celebrations Tangi Kaara Competition, Prize Giving/ Awards Official Closing Ceremony Mon 11th School Term 3 begins Fri 15th Rakahanga Gospel Day – public holiday Rakahanga

SEPTEMBER Tepetema Mon 1st – Fri 5th International Kitesurfing Competition, Aitutaki

Sat 10th Air New Zealand Rarotonga Triathlon

Fri 25th School Term 2 complete – School Holidays begin

Sun 11th Mothers Day

Mon 21st Mitiaro Gospel Day – public holiday Mitiaro

Triathlon Awards Dinner

Tue 22nd Mauke Gospel Day – public holiday Mauke

Thu 18th – Wed 24th Island Car & Bike Hire 37th Round Rarotonga Road Race events

Thu 24th – Fri 1st Aug Cook Islands Bowls Carnival

Sat 20th Rarotonga Rugby Club 15’s Grand Finals

Mon 12th Golden Oldies Rugby Mini Festival Tue 13th Turtles ‘Tour de Raro’ Cycle Race Wed 14th Matutu Mile fun run Tue 20th – Sat 24th Oceania Masters Squash Tournament Fri 23rd – Sat 24th Te Aito Cook Islands (canoeing) Fri 30th Opera in Rarotonga. Opera classics with a Pacific flavour. Venue – Crown Beach Resort

96 • ESCAPE

AUGUST Aukute Fri 1st – Sat 9th Te Maeva Nui Celebrations 2014 commences This year's celebrations mark the 49th anniversary of the Cook Islands gaining independence.

Sun 7th Fathers Day

Round Rarotonga Road Race

N.B. Dates and events are provided courtesy of Cook Islands Tourism Corporation and are subject to change without notice. Visitors are advised to confirm event dates with the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435, or by email: Lydia.Nga@cookislands.gov.ck

Left: Cook Islands International Rugby 7’s Tournament

Events that you shouldn’t miss…

May

Te Mire Ura – Dancer of the Year Poetry in motion is a euphemism made literal in Polynesia, no truer than when the annual Dancer of the Year competition is held each April. Dozens of dancers in three age groups, junior, intermediate and open, take to the stage at nightspots on Rarotonga and the outer islands. Finals are then held at the 2,000 seat national auditorium in Rarotonga under the direction of the Ministry of Cultural Development. An entertaining evening watching the finals at the auditorium sees a mingling of locals and tourists filling the place up, packed out with kids - every dancer of the year is every kid’s idol until the next year. Winners are chosen on criteria like costume, choreography and degree-of-difficulty. This is always a most entertaining and enlightening spectacle for visitors.

August Te Maeva Nui – Celebrating our nation’s independence Every year from June to August about 2000 people on Rarotonga and on the outer islands put their lives on hold to prepare for Te Maeva Nui, the national culture and dance festival. It is a weeklong cultural marathon held around the date of August 4th, which is the birthday of the Cook Islands as an independent nation. Whilst each year in April, solo dancers compete for the title of ‘Dancer of the Year’, it is the big dance teams from different islands and districts who challenge each other during Te Maeva Nui. It is an intense

competition, which requires energy and dedication from a large percentage of the Cook Islands population. For five nights the exuberant performances become a vibrant testimony of the passionate commitment Cook Islanders have to their dance and culture. The dynamic drum dance is the favourite of most locals and visitors, but each team competes in four disciplines in total: Ute (song-chant), Pe’e (chant and theatre), Kapa Rima (action song) and Ura Pa’u (drum dance). And, it is the thrill of anticipation that excites the local audience – what new dances, costumes, songs and chants are in store? You may have seen cultural dance shows around the island, or perhaps in your resort, but you haven’t seen anything that even closely resembles the vibrancy and passion of the finals at Te Maeva Nui, held in the National Stadium. This is the cultural highlight of the Cook Islands year; the only people who are ever disappointed are those who miss it.

SEPTEMBER International Kitesurfing Competition In September some of the biggest names in kitesurfing will head to the Cook Islands to vie for the top spot at the international kitesurfing competition on Aitutaki. The Cook Islands Kitesurfing Association, in conjunction with the events team at Cook Islands Tourism, will manage this big event which has catapulted the Cook Islands on to the international stage as a desirable kitesurfing destination. 2011’s inaugural event generated immense support for the association and this year marks the 4th

such competition on the stunning waters of Aitutaki Lagoon. The competition is held at Motu Maina Iti on Aitutaki. Check with the Visitor Information Centre for dates. Phone (682) 29435 or email: Lydia@ cookislands.gov.ck

October 7’s in Heaven The Cook Islands International Rugby 7’s Tournament which is also known as ‘Sevens in Heaven' has become one of the most sought after 7’s competitions in the Pacific. During the past 10 years, the Cook Islands international ‘Sevens in Heaven’ tournament has not only grown to include age grade matches and women’s teams – it has also developed a real festive atmosphere. Although it’s not the Wellington or Hong Kong sevens, where hundreds of thousands flock to the games in colourful eye catching attire, here in paradise, the party and dress up atmosphere is very much island style! After all – playing sports and having a good time is something the people of the Cook Islands know how to do, and do well.

November Vaka Eiva Hundreds of paddlers and their supporters hit Rarotonga’s shores in November each year for the Steinlager Vaka Eiva; an exciting and fun outrigger canoeing festival, which is now the largest sporting event in the country. While the rugby 7s festival generates plenty of excitement in these rugby mad islands, there’s no doubt the influx of paddlers and supporters to the island hypes things up even more for the exciting week of Vaka Eiva activities; and oe vaka is fast establishing itself as one of the largest and most popular sporting codes in the country.

ESCAPE • 97

December Te Mire Tiare Flower Festival This happy and colourful festival features competitions for the best floral decorated shops, schools and government buildings, each one on a different day of the week long festivities. Locals also vie for the honour of making the best head or neck ‘ei (garland), best pot plant and much more. International Kitesurfing Competition

What makes it even more special, is that outrigger canoeing is one of the few traditional Polynesian sports that have survived the test of time, plus it has strong cultural significance and roots in the Pacific islands. Vaka Eiva is a festival promoting both competition and the culture of oe vaka. Held annually since 2004, Vaka Eiva has established a reputation as a hugely enjoyable week of racing, culture, and festivities, and attracts crews from throughout the world.

There’s an air of festivity on the island the whole week long, from the opening ceremony, throughout the week of racing and social activities, to the wrap up paddler’s party at Trader Jack’s waterfront bar. Trader Jack is one sponsor who has been involved from the start and this is the hangout of choice for paddlers and spectators throughout the week, giving close views of the start and finish of the ocean races.

The glamorous focal point to the week is undoubtedly the ‘Miss Tiare’ competition which sees attractive young ladies competing for this prestigious title. The first appearance of the contestants is usually at the Punanga Nui marketplace on the first Saturday of the festival; the weeks wraps up with a colourful float parade and crowning of Miss Tiare on the following Saturday. For more information and to confirm event dates, visitors are advised to contact the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435, or by email: Lydia.Nga@cookislands.gov.ck

www.cookislands.travel

Downtown Avarua Next to the ANZ Bank We’re here to help you! Advice on accommodation, tours, restaurants, activities, entertainment and travel to our other islands. Phone or call in to see us.

Open: Monday to Friday 8am - 4pm Saturday 9am - 12 noon Phone: (682) 29435 Email: headoffice@cookislands.travel 98 • ESCAPE

Head Office P.O. Box 14, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Phone: (682) 29435 Fax: (682) 21435 headoffice@cookislands.travel

New Zealand 91 St Georges Bay Rd, Studio 11, Level 3 Parnell Auckland 1052 New Zealand T: +649 366 1106 nzmanager@cookislands.travel

Southern Europe Via Caravaggio, 14 57021 Campiglia Marittima Tuscany, Italy T: +39 056 585 3375 F: + 39 178 223 3560 M: +39 335 675 6862 southerneurope@cookislands.travel

Australia Shop 38, Niecon Plaza, Mezzanine Level, 17-19 Victoria Ave Broadbeach, QLD 4218 Australia T: +61 7 5504 5488 F: +61 7 5504 5732 ausmanager@cookislands.travel

United Kingdom Trafalgar House, 223 Southampton Rd Portsmouth PO6 4PY T: +44 23 9238 6401 ukmanager@cookislands.gov.ck

Northern Europe Fischerstrasse 28, 82266 Inning/Bachern Germany T: +49 814 399 1480 M: +49 172 726 2394 europemanager@cookislands.travel

North America Cook Islands Tourism Marketing 9841 Airport Boulevard, Suite 1000 Los Angeles CA 90045 T: +1 310 299 7670 usamanager@cookislands.travel China RM317 Building B, Huaye International Mansion, No.39 Dongsihuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District, Beijing, PRC, China T: +8610 8571 1217 F: +8610 8571 1775 chinamanager@cookislands.travel

The rental car company operating to international standards.

• Hatchbacks

• Toyota Rav4 Jeeps

Aroa (across from The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa)

Ph: 29227 Ph: 26227 Ph: 23227 Ph: 25227 Ph: 24227 Ph: 21039

Phone 29227

Roadside Assistance (8am to 10pm) Ph 54325 Email: reservations@polynesianhire.co.ck

www.polynesianhire.co.ck

• Yamaha Nouvo 115cc 2 seater - fully auto • Hybrid, Mountain & Beach Cruiser Bicycles

Phone 29227 www.polynesianhire.co.ck

cook islands black pearls