In Vino Veritas

War of the rosés

TOM COLLINS (2L)

Last March, IVV reviewed some rosés in anticipation of summer. This year, Amy Lin (1L) suggested that we review some more rosés, for the sheer pleasure of it. I, for one, did not need much convincing. I have frequently professed my love of this pretty pink juice—I happily drink it year-round. But, while my colleagues will be sharing some recent favourites, I will be sharing a couple of misses! Don’t get me wrong, my own reviews are not bad bottles; they just weren’t my glass of wine, so to speak. In any event, there are plenty of fine bottles here from which to choose.

Danica Spring is in the air! While I can’t wait for the weather to turn warmer, particularly after the frigid past two months, the most exciting thing about spring, for me, is that it signals the start of rosé season. I love a good glass of rosé but rarely drink it over the colder months, partly because the LCBO doesn’t stock many at this time, and partly because it just somehow feels wrong. When I think of rosé, I think of sunny afternoons relaxing on a patio somewhere, free from worries of deadlines, assignments, and exams. Now is the perfect time to pick out your go-to rosé for the spring, and I’ve got two great options for you.

First is the Château Val Joanis Joséphine Luberon Rosé (2017), which you’ll find in the Vintages section of your local LCBO for $23.95 (although it was

recently on sale for $7 off). This is a very pale rosé with a nice fruity aroma. It has a dominant red berry flavour that’s balanced with mild acidity, and it hits the perfect combination of being fruity without being too sweet. This would be a great happy hour rosé that would pair nicely with a charcuterie board, although I happily drank it alongside a bowl of popcorn.

My second recommendation is the Delas Saint- Esprit Côtes du Rhône Rosé (2017), which comes in a bit cheaper than my previous recommendation at $16.95 per bottle. If you prefer your rosés a bit drier and with a bit more body, then this is the wine for you. On first sip you get flavours of strawberries and raspberries, with spicy notes mixed in. The Delas is noticeably drier than the Château Val Joanis, but it has a similarly mild acidity. I would save this gem for dinner; it would go great with grilled chicken or calamari…or a second bowl of popcorn!

Tom Do you love bone dry wines? Consider trying Château Léoube Rosé de Léoube 2017. This Grenache blend comes in an extremely minimal bottle that shows off its faint but dense blush colour so cleanly that it would look right at home in some design mag. Opening the bottle reveals strawberry and grapefruit aromas. But don’t be fooled, this is a severe wine with arresting tartness. I picked out hints of

lemon rind and chalk, but the alkaline finish, which comes fast and lasts long, is more of a mouthfeel than a flavour. This wine will stand up to the creamiest of dishes, but I would like a little more acidity for balance. $28.95 at the LCBO.

If you are looking for something a little more easy-drinking, Ott by Ott 2017 might be a better choice. This wine is the baby brother of the famed Domaines Ott Château de Selle Rosé. The nose has fleeting aromas of watermelon and strawberry, but those don’t persist in the palate, which is mostly mineral. The mouthfeel is pleasantly juicy, and the body is medium plus, but there is not much finish. At $29.95, Ott by Ott is $20 less than its sibling, but I think it is still overpriced by about $10.

Amy Whoever said that you should not judge a wine by its bottle has never come across Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses. When it comes to rosés especially, people tend to drink with their eyes first. From the slick sloping bottle to the chic glass stopper, the packaging of this wine is delightfully elegant. With the palesalmon rosé blushing through the transparent bottle, flipping the wine on its head reveals a hidden pink rose cut into the base.

Perhaps it is not surprising such a romantic wine hails from the South of France, a place as wellknown for its rosés as for its delightful landscapes.

On the nose, the first impression is an intense waft of acidic floral. While refreshing, for me, this mediumbodied wine is on the dry end of the spectrum when it comes to rosés. The lively palate of honeysuckle, watermelon, and unripe strawberries cascades into a lingering citrusy finish. Selling for $18.95 a bottle at LCBO, this wine will make for a wonderful gift to anyone who adores rosé and will convert those who proclaims otherwise. I suggest making a spring cocktail by adding some fresh grapefruit juice and sparkling water. So, what are you waiting for? Will you accept this rosé?

Kimia Looking for something a little special? I recommend Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Rosé Brut (VQA). This dry, sparkling rosé is salmon pink in colour and packed with delectable flavours: red berries, baked apples, fresh bread, and a long finish of creamy grapefruit sorbet. The nose shows delicious hints of citrus, roasted nuts, and strawberry danish. For $32.95 at the LCBO, this is a great substitute for Champagne rosé and certainly plays up to the expectation for a complex and well-balanced bubbly. Plus, it comes in a very pretty package! Take a bottle to an intimate gathering or celebration with friends and pair it with delicate sweet or savory pastries and small-bites. I tried it with home-made smoked salmon bites and loved the combo. I wouldn’t change a thing about this wine!