staff
EDITORS-IN-CHIEF MJ Batson and April Zhang
editorial & publishing DESIGN EDITOR Rachel Watson FASHION EDITORS Vivian Carlson, Victor Ha, Madeleine Luckel STREET STYLE EDITORS BEAUTY EDITOR Becca Gevertz, Samantha Rose Marissa Petteruti DIY EDITOR ART EDITOR Mo Hy Chelsea English ENTERTAINMENT EDITOR PHOTOGRAPHY COORDINATOR Marissa Bergman Erin Schwartz THAT GIRL/THAT GUY EDITOR DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT EDITOR Michelle Frea Jelena Jelusic BLOG EDITOR COPY CHIEF Tiffany Mendoza Camille Spencer-Salmon
business FUNDRAISING Liv Nam
PUBLICITY Liz Kelley
ADVERTISING SALES Hyoju Lim
in this issue 4 6
EDITORS’ LETTERS MEET THE STAFF
10
STREET STYLE
20 FASHION 23 Closet Raiders 26 Fondation D’Enterprise Hermès 28 Breathless 44 Fashion Internships 46 Winter Outerwear 50 DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT 52 Cushnie et Ochs 56 BEAUTY 58 Winter Beauty Essentials 60 Holiday Makeup How-Tos 64 Poetic Nails 66 Fishtail Braid 70 DIY 72 Neon Sole Shoes 74 Body Chain 76 Ribbon + Washer Bracelet 78 Hex Bolt Bracelet 82 ENTERTAINMENT 84 Like Crazy 86 Florence + the Machine 88 Behind the Fan 90 THAT GIRL/THAT GUY 92 Amy Kallman ‘14 94 Dean Mary Grace Almandrez 98 ART 110 PHOTOSHOOT COVER PHOTOGRAPH: MJ Batson THROUGHOUT the issue original poetry submitted by students
favorite style icons Not sure favorite designer Alexander McQueen i love to wear Long skirts i’d never wear Overalls next must-have purchase Jeffrey Campbell shoes timeless trend Individuality favorite poet Shel Silverstein
favorite style icons Anna Della Russo, Andrew Mukamal favorite designer Jil Sander, Peter Som, Christoper Kane i love to wear neon, sequins, leopard print i’d never wear head-to-toe black next must-have purchase neon Cambridge satchel timeless trend leopard print, color blocking favorite poet Dr. Seuss
contributors
Vivian Carlson ‘14 fashion editor favorite designer: Cacharel
Mo Hy ‘14 diy editor loves to wear: infinity scarf
Victor Ha ‘14 fashion editor favorite style icon: Blair Waldorf
Madeleine Luckel ‘14 fashion editor loves to wear: gold sparkly flats
Tiffany Mendoza ‘14 blog editor
Marissa Bergman ‘14 entertainment editor favorite poet: Billy Collins
Eve Blazo ‘11 stylist favorite style icon: Bianca Jagger
Camille Spencer-Salmon ‘14 copy chief favorite style icon: “badass older ladies”
Rachel Watson ‘13 design editor favorite style icon: Coco Chanel
Becca Gevertz ‘14 street style editor favorite designer: Vera Wang
Hyoju Lim ‘14 advertising sales next must-have item: Chanel “Chance Eau Tendre”
Marissa Petteruti ‘14 beauty editor favorite style icon: Grace Kelly
Liz Kelley ‘13 publicity loves to wear: fur
Michelle Frea ‘14 tg/tg editor favorite style icon: Kate Middleton
Samantha Rose ‘15 street style editor next must-have item: Doc Martens Erin Schwartz ‘15 photography coordinator next must-have purchase: “the world’s biggest sweater”
Liv Nam ‘13 fundraising favorite designer: Yves Saint Laurent Chelsea English ‘14 art editor favorite poem: “In a Station of the Metro” by Ezra Pound
contributors
Sheila Sitaram ‘15 fashion favorite poet: Sylvia Plath
Nicole Salvador ‘15 entertainment favorite designer: Prabal Gurung
Angela Cao ‘14 beauty favorite style icon: Clémence Poésy
Diane Zhou ‘14 layout design favorite style icon: Jess Tran of JessLovesFred Caroline Bologna ‘14 entertainment favorite style icon: Marilyn Monroe
Minji Cha ‘14 diy favorite designer: Karl Lagerfeld Dani Grodsky ‘14 beauty favorite designer: Betsey Johnson
Marianne Abbott ‘15 party planner extraordinaire favorite designer: Alexander McQueen
Taryn Riemer ‘15 business favorite designer: Elie Saab
Katie Cusumano ‘15 photographer favorite poet: Pablo Nerudo
Ivy Alphonse-Leja ‘14 fashion loves to wear: hats!
Michelle Chang ‘14 beauty favorite style icon: Kate Middleton
Elaine Kuckertz ‘13 fashion next must-have purchase: trench coat Marina Camim ‘14 layout design loves to wear: leg warmers
Photo by Erin Schwartz
street style
Alexander Crane ‘12 and Madisen Obiedo ‘12
Favorite poet Jorge Luis Borges
Photo by Vivian Carlson
Next must-have purchase over-the-knee socks
Alli Schaff ‘14
Photo by Mo Hy
Favorite poet Mary Oliver
Minji Cha ‘14
Next must-have purchase maxi skirt
street style
Trend Report: Flats Style inspiration femininity with neutral tones
Photo by Victor Ha
Never be caught wearing Uggs
Favorite poet Pablo Neruda Next must-have purchase leather watchband
Photo by Mo Hy
Ingrid Chen ‘15
Isabella Giancarlo ‘14
Photo by Vivian Carlson
Style inspiration The Sartorialist
Margot Hauer-King ‘13
Photo by Victor Ha
Style inspiration weather
Hyoju Lim ‘14
Timeless trend denim
street style
Timeless trend black flats
Photo by Victor Ha
Never be caught wearing neon orange because I have red hair
Favorite poem “The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock” by T.S. Eliot
Photo by Erin Schwartz
Madeleine Luckel ‘14
Erika Manouselias ‘15
Marco Sanchez Junco ‘11
Photo by Mo Hy
Love to wear skinny jeans
street style
Favorite poem “Ode to Mortality” by William Wordsworth
Photo by Becca Gevertz
Next must-have purchase boots
Photo by Lucy Fernandez
Katelyn Kondra ‘14
Never be caught wearing sweatshirt and sweatpants together Timeless trend pearls Lorin Smith ‘15
Photo by Erin Schwartz
Favorite poem “The Tables Turned” by William Wordsworth
Siddharth Saxena ‘15
Photo by Camille Spencer
Favorite poet Maya Angelou Timeless trend leather jacket
Paige Simmons ‘13
Love to wear hats
unhemmedblog.com
closet raiders:
Jessica Le
I
by Ivy Alphonse-Leja
have been waiting on the edge of my seat to pull out my winter knits and boots. The holiday season is right around the corner, but the cold still hasn’t decided to stick around for very long and Providence apparently reserves the right to keep us in climate limbo. Until the weather decides that we can finally break out the chunky knits and long socks, we look to Jessica Le ’13, who inspires us even in totally unpredictable weather. Jessica has a distinct wardrobe of versatile layers and textures that can be tweaked to con-
front whatever Mother Nature throws at her. For her, style is a form of self-expression. Jessica is one part Marie Antoinette, one part Victorian vampire, and one part sleek trendsetter. She prefers mixing vintage clothing with newer, trendier items. Her closet is cluttered with items that look intricate and unique by themselves, but that can be worn as basics or layers without a second thought. Jessica finishes each look with lipstick, specifically Yves Saint Laurent #12, a “nice plum pinkish color” that she wears with everything.
fashion
look one This look hints at her vintage and feminine aesthetic with a more muted color palette of neutral black and brown. Her flattering knee-length skirt is paired with a mauve cardigan and a black tank top with a flower detail. This is a look that could
be worn to class with ease. A pair of tights can take spring skirts into other seasons and extend the versatility of your wardrobe. Jessica is wearing a pair of patent-leather heels, but a pair of cute ballet flats would be a comfy alternative.
look two We layered a black vest over a champagne-colored maxi-dress and accessorized with a classic felt hat and black leather gloves. A felt hat can elevate an outfit as simple as jeans and a t-shirt, while a good pair of leather gloves is not only a chic staple that
will withstand changing trends but will keep your fingers warm on the way to class. Jessica is fearless. Take a cue from her this winter -- don’t be afraid to experiment with layers, neutrals, and unexpected accessories.
fashion
P
FASHION, BROWN, AND ART STITCHED TOGETHER
ierre-Alexis Dumas, the Chief Creative Director of Hermes and Brown ’91 Alum, came to give a speech November 11th. Last year, Dumas visited and spoke on Hermes, specifically their iconic silk scarf. This year however, his focus was slightly different, while still drawing on the theme of the difference between Art and Craft. Dumas, who concentrated in Visual Arts at Brown and took classes at RISD, has established the “Fondation D’Entreprise Hermes” to support young artists and designers while focusing on current world problems. Dumas, the president of the Foundation, said that he was motivated by the death of his father, his predecessor in the family business, who dreamed of making this institution a reality. The central tenets of the foundation are “promoting traditional craft skills and expertise, support for the creative arts, access to education and training, and the preservation of environment (biodiversity).” After an introduction, Dumas discussed the four artists the Foundation has supported in residence, – Elizabeth Clark, Benoit Pieron, Oliver Severe, and Simon Boudvin. All four were asked to consider Hermes’ tradition of fine manufacturing, be it leather goods, silk textiles, glass blowing et cetera. The artists each went to one of the 33 local French production sites, most of which are in regions historically specializing in a specific craft, and worked with the craftsmen and women directly. They were asked to produce two versions of their work, one for Hermes and one for themselves. Elizabeth Clark, the only non-native French artist, created a large circle of wood, covered in white leather. She reflected, “I wanted to highlight the importance of the hand and its movement” and also practiced the saddle stitch, a staple in Hermes products. The circle framed the work studio, and ultimately built a strong sense of community within the factory. Dumas noted how the warm party given for the artisans and their families, after the piece’s completion, demonstrated the more personal benefits of inter-disciplinary cooperation. Pieron worked in Lyon, France’s silk capital. He focused on creating a bed out of fantastical silk designs emphasizing organic forms. The silk experts in Lyon
by Madeleine Luckel
noted Pieron’s visionary thought process, and his ability to conceptualize complete, colorful and almost psychedelic textiles. Both sides learned how to better communicate dreams of design and the reality of production – an extremely relevant issue for both artists and Fashion houses. Oliver Severe went to the famous Cristalleries de SaintLouis, where glass has been made since 1586. He created natural mineral forms, after much experimentation with sanding, gilding, engraving et cetera, which were displayed on tables reminiscent of old collectors. Boudvin arranged abstract cuts of leather on a leather bound desk, venturing away from more classical cuts the design house uses in their products. Hermes has found a way to support the artistic community of its origins, thus focusing their assistance on a cause related to their expertise and facilitating the future of the arts. Dumas’s interest in Visual Arts and inter-disciplinary work stem partially from his time at Brown, and can be seen as a model for other fashion houses’ contributions to the community.
fashion
BREAT
A collection of the timele us how to open our heart
elizabeth | mr. darcy Her nose in a book, she pairs romantic cream hues with defiant black heels. His nose in the air, he is ever brooding in a black suit and white scarf.
THLESS
ess love stories that taught ts-- and fill our wardrobes
by Victor Ha photographer: Katie Cusumano models: Anna Reed, Ian Green
fashion
fashion
holly golightly | paul varjak There’s no place like Tiffany’s. And there’s no ensemble like an LBD, strand of pearls, and elbowlength gloves.
fashion
juliet | romeo O Romeo, Romeo! She calls into the night in a full-length lace skirt, her silky tresses pulled back by a matching lace headband.
fashion
fashion
cleopatra | marc antony It isn’t easy being regal. This Queen of Egypt’s statementmaking jewelry is sure to impress her subjects-- and lover.
fashion
allie | noah Their season of romance will turn into a lifetime of love. This season, fall in love with pastel buttondowns for him and bright dresses for her.
fashion
sandy | danny He’s cool in a leather jacket. She’s hot in a cut-out corset. They go to-ge-ther like...
fashion
fashion internships by Vivian Carlson
As winter break approaches, the dreadful process of finding the perfect summer internship looms in our midst. The fashion industry can be opaque rather than translucent when it comes to finding an internship. The first key to success is to start early and be optimistic about what opportunities and experiences will be available to you. If this is your first summer pursuing an internship in the fashion empire, it may be beneficial to talk ¬with a fellow classmate, friend, or relative who has experience within some aspect of the industry. Advice can be a determining factor in figuring out what type of fashion internship you should apply for (PR, design, merchandising, sales) as well as what would be a comfortable environment. Many people flock to the American epicenter of fashion, NYC. Regardless of what city you intern in, the connections you make within the fashion industry are your greatest reward. This past summer I was a PR intern at an Italian fashion house called Aeffe. Like many fashion interns, I helped with a variety of tasks from compiling Excel sheets to running errands to helping stylists select looks for upcoming shoots. I spent the majority of my time managing apparel requests we received from publications and productions. While I technically was a PR intern, I often was required to help out the sales interns, especially when boxes filled with new collections bombarded the house. Whether a task was menial or engaging, it was necessary to approach each
day with an optimistic and enthusiastic mindset. Unhemmed’s Editor-in-Chief, April Zhang, also interned in NYC this past summer at Seventeen Magazine. Her main responsibility was managing the fashion closet. She similarly processed and organized shipments and deliveries of clothing and accessories from various designers and PR companies. Due to the continual changeover of inventory, the closet needed to be reorganized daily. April’s advice during your quest for the perfect fashion internship next summer is to not be afraid of rejection and to send your resume to a variety of companies. Also, try to interview in person because this allows you to showcase your stylish personality as well as gain a better understanding about the inner workings of the specific company and the specific duties of an internship. Lastly, April wisely advises you to “be the best intern of the bunch.” With an honest and heartfelt effort day after day, you will make a good impression that may lead to other opportunities within the company or industry in the future. April would say the most valuable asset gained during her experience was the connections she made within the fashion department and amongst the other interns. In essence, be proactive about finding an internship in the fashion industry this summer. Whether it takes a week or a few months to find an appealing opportunity, be persistent and do not hesitate to apply to a plethora of companies.
fashion
Cozy and Cute:
how to stay warm and stylish this winter By Elaine Kuckertz For many of us at Brown, this is the first time we will experience winter. After the Nor’easter that threatened our Halloweekend, we’ve learned that sundresses cannot protect us from the bitter New England cold. We reluctantly stow away our favorite stylish pieces and shuffle around campus in bulky black parkas, awaiting the return of spring. But it doesn’t have to be that way. This winter, we can look good and stay warm.
Fur:
Big and luxurious, fur coats can add some flair to normal jeans and boots, or look extra fabulous on top of a long dress with tights. A great faux fur jacket, like this gorgeous one by Michael Kors, is substantial enough to keep you warm but still looks stylish over almost any outfit. Get the look:
Michael Kors FW2011. photo: style.com
Faux Fur Jacket, Willow & Clay, $128, Nordstrom.com
Get the look:
Capes:
Capes add a fresh twist on the traditional coat, especially in bright colors and patterns, like this ChloĂŠ blanket wrap. Layer up by sneaking warm pieces like chunky sweaters and turtlenecks underneath. Try something vibrant like a plaid or Navajo print, keeping the rest of your outfit to neutral.
Navaho Blanket Cape, Vero Moda, $79, Asos.com
ChloĂŠ FW2011. Photo: style.com
Wool Cape, American Apparel, $170, americanapparel.net
fashion Bold Colors:
The worst part of winter is the dreary gray color and lack of sunshine, but you can remedy this with colors that pop. A vibrantly colored pea coat or trench will brighten up your look every day. Alternatively you can opt to update last year’s neutral coat with bold accessories. Colorful scarves, mittens, and tights can enliven your look during these gloomy months. Get the look:
Snood, Asos, $17, asos.com
Blumarine FW2011 RTW. Photo: style.com
Winter will last several months, but there’s no reason to let the cold temperatures infringe upon your style. Instead of resigning yourself to one black jacket and those old, salt-stained Uggs all season, push yourself to stay stylish and give yourself a boost of cheer even as Providence turns dark and gray. Spring will be back soon enough in all its sundress-and-crop-top glory. Toggle coat, TopShop, $178, topshop.com
poetry
winter romance I spend my nights in contemplation of hands under covers you take mine, evaluate touch my lip, estimate speak of trite pasts; emboldened by my eyes We weave lies big, small, thin and thick nubs of knuckles our bodies fit better together I told myself -Vera Carothers ‘14
designer spotlight
CUSHNIE ET OCHS by Jelena Jelusic
C
ontrast and mystery are common denominators of all Cushnie et Ochs collections. The designer duo never fails to surprise us. Just when we think we have their aesthetic completely figured out, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs come up with new styles, shapes and colors to play with. This play, however, is thoughtful as much as it is free. Every piece in Cushnie et Ochs’ collections is visually complete and tailored to perfection, not surprising considering the rigorous training these two women underwent prior to establishing their label. Both designers attended Parsons School of Design. During that time, Carly interned at Donna Karan, Proenza Schouler and Oscar De La Renta, while Michelle interned at Marc Jacobs, Isaac Mizrahi and Chado Ralph Rucci. These experiences gave them a chance to work on ready to wear collections, but also become familiar with complex and sophisticated couture techniques. Carly and Michelle describe their label as “a constant evolution of form and function” inspired by Carly’s international sophistication (she is originally from London) and Michelle’s American sensibility. However, Cushnie et Ochs collections are not only successful because they are innovative while stay-
ing (relatively) functional. Their shapes and forms are irresistible because they present to the rest of the world a woman that is confident and sophisticated, yet playful and mysterious. Fashion offers us a way to use our bodies as platforms for creative and aesthetic expression – not only to say who we are, but also to get a chance to (re) define ourselves in the process. Cushnie et Ochs clothes are there to celebrate natural beauty of the woman who wears them. It seems as though every part of her body and face remain in perfect symbiosis with the shapes and forms of the clothes. In other words, Cushnie et Ochs pieces redefine the one who wears them naturally and unimposingly – that is why their innovations manage to balance so effectively both the aspects of daring and of the functional. Moreover, Carly and Michelle seem to be experts in conveying through their designs a sense of duality and constant change that is essential to our personalities as well as our dressing styles. Style.com describes their SS 2011 collection as “a beautiful dark” and comments on the SS 2012 collection - “Barbie dolls. Betty Draper. Pink. Unlikely suspects for a Cushnie et Ochs mood board, perhaps, but there was a dark humor bubbling underneath.”
poetry
housing peeling the crust off your chest, I wash you slowly you were interred once, there – I am here now I unfold down from your neck, opening your violet interior inside you are crouched behind the sofa, waiting to be found I walk through the kitchenette, fingers carving dust trails in the countertop, tracing the curve of your ribs beneath the faded floral wallpaper your gaze, splintered by laced fingers follows my touch reaching up, I pull closed your flesh like windowshades I think I will hide with you glow of the frozen television makes us a shadow -Jonah Kagan ‘13
beauty
Holiday Makeup Look one
by Michelle Chang model: Stephany Foster
Light up this holiday season with this sophisticated and festive look!
1. Apply an eye shadow primer all over the eyelid. Try: Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion in Sin 2. Apply a silver eye shadow on lids from the lash line to a little above the crease. Try: Chanel Illusion d’Ombre in #84 Épatant 3. Apply a shimmery light eye shadow to the inner corners of your eyes and tear duct area. Try: Bare Minerals Eyecolor in Nude Beach 4. Apply a charcoal eye shadow to the crease and socket area and blend out harsh edges with a fluffy brush. Try: Urban Decay Loose Pigment in Gunmetal 5. Line your upper lash line with any black eyeliner (gel/liquid/pencil/eyeshadow) to add definition and then line the waterline with black eyeliner. Try: Urban Decay Deluxe Eyeshadow in Zero and NYX Eye Pencil in #901 Black 6. Curl lashes and top with mascara. Try: Maybelline the Falsies Volum’ Express mascara in Black Drama 7. To let your sparkly eyes steal the show, apply a nude lipstick or lip-gloss. Try: Victoria’s Secret Perfect Lipstick in Instinct
beauty
Holiday Makeup Look Two
by Angela Cao model: Stephany Foster
Light up this holiday season with this sophisticated and festive look!
1. Cover the entire eyelid with primer. Because this is a champagne shimmer, you can also dot it in the inner corners for extra-bright eyes. Try: Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion 2. Line both the top and bottom lashline in black pencil, including the bottom water line. 3. Apply a dark gold eyeshadow on the inner half of the lid Try: Urban Decay in Smog 4. Apply a deep, cool-toned brown eyeshadow to the outer half of the lid, winging it out slightly on the outer corners. Try: Urban Decay in Twice Baked 5. Apply a bright gold metallic eyeshadow in a wide, vertical line directly on the center of the eyelid, in between the dark gold and deep brown eyeshadows. Try: Bare Essentials in True Gold Eyecolor 6. Apply black eyeliner again to the top lashline. 7. Apply a fuchsia lipstick, blot, and apply again. Try: Revlon ColorStay in Wild Orchid
beauty
Poetic Nails by Kade-Chanya Wilailak, Michelle Chang and Celline Kim
What you’ll need: Newspaper
Some type of alcohol such as vodka
Nail base- and top-coat
A pale nail polish We used Butter’s All Hail The Queen
1 Apply the base coat and pale nail polish.
2 Cut newspaper into pieces and put onto nails.
3
Pour the alcohol into a glass. When the nails are dry, soak them in alcohol.
4 Let the nails dry. Apply a top-coat and you’re done!
Fishtail
beauty
Braid
by Marissa Petteruti photos by Dani Grodsky
This season, messy side-braids are in. Follow these easy steps to get the same look that has been made popular by celebrities and runway models. www.marieclaire.com
1
www.favmode.com
First, pull all of your hair to one side and loosely secure it with a hair elastic.
2
Next, split the ponytail into two equal parts.
3
Take one strand of hair from the outer edge of one of the sections and cross it over to the other. Then take a strand from the outer edge of the other side and do the same, forming an X.
4 5
Next, gently slide the top hair elastic off of the braid.
6
The finished product.
Repeat this process until all of the hair is braided and secure it with a hair elastic.
poetry
never For every breath you waste on me, For every loving tear you spare, I draw ever closer to the pit of Debt, Though never quite reaching there. You reach for my hands in vain, You look around, cry out to me, You cling on to that hopeless hope That I am the man I can never be. The truth is yet to leave my lips, My forsaken voice is yet to sing, To tell you, who have loved me so, That this doomed love could never have been. Oh let me go, my silly little friend, You deserve so much more than me. On this poor seed shower not your grace, For ’t will not grow to love thee. -Pathikrit Bhattacharyya ‘14
diy
inspiration from streetFSN.blogspot.com
neon sole shoes by April Zhang
Grab an old pair of shoes - these were only $5 at the Salvation Army on Pitman St. Using masking tape or painter’s tape mask off the upper part of the shoe. Paint a couple coats of white acrylic paint, and let the paint dry. Once dry, paint two coats of any color acrylic paint. This neon paint was less than $4 at the RISD store.
Seal the acrylic paint with a coat or two of Mod Podge. Let dry overnight, then carefully peel off the tape.
diy
body chain by Camille Spencer
Jazz up your plain tees and winter sweaters with a body chain.
What you’ll need: • several yards of craft store chain • jewelry pliers • problem solving skills (it’s a simple DIY, but chain has a tricky way of tangling) • time for trial and error
2
1
Make a loop with the chain - this part goes around your neck.
Attach two short (2 inch) lengths of chain to opposite sides of the loop.
3
Attach another loop of chain (this one goes around your body) to one of the dangling pieces of chain, and then add the opposite end of the loop to the other.
4
If you like, add another pair of short lengths of chain to your second tier loop.
6
5
Make another loop and attach it to the second set of dangling chain lengths. Your plain longsleeves just got spicy enough to match your latte.
diy
Ribbon + Washer Bracelet by Mo Hy
What you’ll need: º Flat washers in three varying sizes º 5/8’’ Ribbon
1. Take the ribbon and weave it through the first washer from below.
2. Thread the ribbon through the second washer from the top and through the middle of the first washer.
3. Pull the ribbon taut so the two washers lay flat against one another. 4. Repeat this process until your bracelet is the desired length. * *As for the order of the washers, I arranged them in the pattern: s-s-s-m-m-l-m-m-s-s-s s= small, m=medium, l=large
5. Tie the ends around your wrist into a simple knot or bow.
diy
Hex Bolt Bracelet by Minji Cha
What you’ll need: º 3 strands of twine º about 18 small hex nuts (we used silver hex nuts but the gold ones look just as good if not better!) º a little dexterity goes a long way
1. Gather the three strands of twine and tie a knot at the top, leaving about an inch or two of slack. Start braiding.
2. After you have about an inch of braided twine, thread on a nut onto your far left strand before you braid it over the middle strand. Make sure you hold the nut at the base of the braid as you cross the threads over.
3. Always keep your thumb at the base of the braid so that the hex nut and the twine stay braided. Before you braid the far right strand over the middle strand, thread on another nut, push it against the base of the braid, and then make the crossover.
4. Keep repeating the process on each side. Thread nut on left, cross, thread nut on right, cross, etc. 5. Finish the bracelet with another inch of braided twine and a knot.
poetry
arrhythmia how else do i explain the shortness of breath, pounding in my chest, when you caress me, palpitations consume in this tiny room, as the rhythm begins to sync you fit in like a puzzle, but i am puzzled by your words, softly spoken through those lips that burn with fire, im dying from desire, danger that drives this doomed destiny like an open heart surgery, i’ve been exposed, you took my heart, you took my clothes, and showed me everything underneath: adorable, precious reflection. thank you… and then my heart begins to slow, as you took hold and lifted me up above all others. the earth spins far below my feet and whether or not you accept, i’d give you it all my heart, my beat -Chanliny Lim ‘13
entertainment
BEHIND THE WARDROBE: LIKE CRAZY by Caroline Bologna
I
f you’re looking for a cinematic portrait of young love circa 2011, look no further than Like Crazy, the Sundance Grand Jury Prize winner. Starring Anton Yelchin and Felicity Jones, Like Crazy tells the woeful tale of an ill-fated long-distance relationship. Set against a university background, the film presents us with Anna, an aspiring British writer, who meets Jacob, a local boy majoring in furniture design. The two L.A. college students fall wildly in love, so much so that Anna overstays her visa to spend the post-grad
© 2011 - Paramount Pictures
summer with him. After returning home and then later flying back to L.A. for a visit, she’s turned away by customs, forcing the couple to separate. The movie thus chronicles the emotional rollercoaster of trying to maintain this transcontinental relationship. As Jacob and Anna, Yelchin and Jones inject a great degree of realism into their roles. Working without a conventional screenplay, the actors improvised the bulk of their dialogue, and a documentary-style camerawork enhances this effect. Additionally, the actors both brought their own personal wardrobes to the film, with Jones doing her own hair and makeup as well. Fashion certainly has a presence throughout the film. Back in London, Anna gets a job working for a fashion editor of a magazine. Furthermore, the evolution of the characters’ wardrobes reflects their emotional journeys with the progression of the story. Sporting button downs and jackets, Jacob initially appears closed-off, until his romance with Anna liberates him. His style becomes freer, but then ultimately sloppy as he starts to lose Anna. As Anna, Jones sports Yelchin’s own personal jacket, which he bought at a Salvation Army in Australia for five dollars, throughout the entire movie. The actress also enjoyed the hands-on role she played in creating and mapping her character’s wardrobe. Going on vintage shopping sprees in L.A. with costume designer Mairi Chisholm, Jones selected a combination of contemporary trends and classic simplicity for her look in the film. From high-waisted floral skirts to soft, simple solid tops, her style is a visual manifestation of the film’s general sense of modernity. Portraying the bittersweet and overwhelming longing of long-distance relationships, Like Crazy is a tearjerker for sure, but it is not at all contrived. The characters look and feel authentic. With this naturalistic vibe, a beautiful sense of improvised reality pervades the dialogue, the cinematography, and of course, the clothes.
Yelchin and Jones (in Dolce & Gabbana) at the New York premiere of Like Crazy.
entertainment
florence + the machine by Nicole Salvador
I
n truly alternative fashion, Florence Welch’s inspiration behind her song “Shake It Out” was not love, but rather a hangover. This second single off her sophomore album, Ceremonials, is an anthem of regrets – substance-fueled or otherwise. The accompanying music video, which premiered a few weeks ago, encapsulates everything Florence + the Machine has become known for. The video features an excess of Chantilly lace, soft lighting, and Welch dancing around like a banshee. It is a visually stunning piece, set in an apt period of excess: the Prohibition era of the ‘20s. The video is located at a weekender and showcases Welch’s joie de vivre in the styling of F. Scott Fitzgerald. She proudly exhibits her spitfire voice with lyrics about devils, drinking, and ghouls. With the current reemergence of interest in the Jazz Age, girls and guys alike can garner vast inspiration from the video’s aesthetics. It contains an abundance of golden skulls, sacrificial ceremonies, Venetian masks, velvet, crystal balls, long-stemmed candles, and bird cages, creating a complete immersion into a Gatsby-esque getaway. The partygoers, with their banned gin and tonics, are decked out in Piaget watches, art-deco cocktail rings, finger-wave hairdos, sequins, and suits crisp enough to make Tom Ford jealous.
The singer herself wears four distinctive looks throughout the video. The first is a long-sleeved black velvet gown with a plunging collar and clean lines reminiscent of Victor/Victoria. Her hair is piled into a low chignon and her trademark fringe is parted to the side. Her second look stays more true to the age of Hemingway, as Welch descends from a staircase in a backless long-sleeved, boat-necked Jenny Packham number cinched at the waist and overflowing with gold zigzag patterned sequins. Welch’s outfit of choice for dancing is a blood-red strapless silk gown with an accompanying sheer shawl attached to the bodice and loose hair, a perfectly elegant contrast to her stomp-like dancing. As the song’s crescendo peaks, Welch emerges with her arms sprawled, walking delicately on a tree branch in an ethereal, cream and sparkling fairy-like confection – resembling heaven’s Stevie Nicks. The “Shake It Out” music video closes with the singer laughing among friends in this lush, gilded fantasy world. Florence + the Machine’s follow-up to the wildly popular Lungs is a romantic, howling rumpus. Welch continues with her haunting, mystic pop, but replaces the hard guitars of “Kiss with a Fist” with more strings and drums. The album’s first track, “Only If for a Night” is filled with harps and tribal crescendos, and easily transforms into an anthem.
The album’s first single, “What the Water Gave Me,” is another grandiose narrative with an explosive crescendo, but still only serves as a minor taste of the album’s capacity. In a break from the rest of the album, the piano ballad “Never Let Me Go” provides a nice variation, sounding slightly out of place in context yet also fitting perfectly. Fellow singer Adele’s influence is obvious in “Lover to Lover,” an incredible chant-like gospel number that sounds very 60s and very British soul pop. A standout track from Ceremonials is “No Light, No Light” – it sets aside the ghoulish narratives for a personal plea to a lover. It is filled out with tambourine and a full orchestra, allowing the listener to take note of the fluid variation in Welch’s songwriting. However, by this point in the album, the continuous crescendos and demanding choruses
begin to bleed into one another. “Heartlines” is an odyssey-like epic, but the loud music does little to overshadow a lyrically underwhelming song. “All This and Heaven Too” will inevitably be popularized in a commercial, indieromance movie scene. And the closing track, “Leave My Body,” contains more of Welch’s chant-like choruses, conjuring otherworldly spirits with the aid of heavy drums and sinister tambourines. Ceremonials is filled with much, perhaps excessive, noise, and at times lacks in quiet nuance. However, it’s guaranteed that the public will continue to fawn over Florence + the Machine. These songs are for dancing in the mud at the Glastonbury Festival and sweating in your velvet dress at the Bowery Ballroom. Florence Welch knows exactly what she’s doing. The dog days are still over.
Welch photographed by Karl Lagerfield for a limited-edition vinyl of “Shake It Out”
©Pursuitist
entertainment
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by Marianne Abbott
ady Windermere’s Fan, a comedy by Oscar Wilde, begins with charming Lord Darlington (Gerrit Thurston ‘13) to who visits Lady Windermere (Sarah Gage ’15), a woman who insists on being as puritanical as a young Victorian lady can be. The visit is cut
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short by the Duchess of Berwick (Emma Johnson ‘14) and her awkward daughter (Anna Reed ‘15). The Duchess of Berwick then proceeds to reveal a not-so-well-kept secret about Lord Windermere’s (Daniel Gonon ‘12) friendship with a not-so-puritanical Mrs. Erlynne (Madeleine Heil
photo by Emma Johnson
photo by Emma Johnson
‘13). The tension escalates that evening when Mrs. Erlynne attends Lady Windermere’s birthday party. Lady Windermere lacks the courage to confront her and so she decides to run away with Lord Darlington who had previously and quite dramatically confessed his love to her. The story unravels as Mrs. Erlynne – who also happens to be Lady Windermere’s long lost mother – sacrifices herself to save her daughter’s marriage. However, the show is still complete with a happy ending, as the gullible Lord Augustus (Skylar Fox ‘15) forgives Mrs. Erlynne’s many faults and proceeds to ask for her hand in marriage. After watching a design run of such a hilarious and witty performance, I was extremely excited to work with all of these highly talented people, even if I was only changing their clothes and rearranging the furniture on set. Every night of the show my fellow “techies” and I sat in a side room until our help was required. It was rather torturous to listen to the audience roar with laughter at the Duchess of Berwick’s extravagance and Lord Augus-
tus’s blind infatuation with the insatiable flirt Mrs. Erlynne. I desperately wished to watch the play every night, but working behind the scenes was still an unexpectedly outstanding experience. It gave me the opportunity to see both sides of Lady Windermere’s Fan. I could observe the transformation of young college students into 19th century socialites, with the help of some make-up and facial hair. It was not only the facial hair that aged the male actors, but their undeniable talent and commitment to the play. While some well-placed facial hair is handsome enough, it was the stunning gowns that were truly eye-catching. The gowns, especially those worn in the ball scene, were beautifully constructed and delicately detailed. Each night, as the actors slipped on their respective gowns and tuxedos, the audience was transported into a 19th century wild and luxurious birthday party. Lady Windermere’s Fan was magical for the cast, the crew, and – most importantly – the audience.
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that girl
that girl/that guy
Amy
Kallman By Michelle Frea
A
my Kallman ’14, originally from Alabama, is a true southern belle. She participated in beauty pageants growing up, is a fan of country music, and is a member of Kappa Alpha Theta. In this interview, Amy reveals how her style was influenced by her Southern upbringing and describes how this style has changed since coming to Brown.
MF: How would you describe your style? AK: I would say it is classy with a funky twist. MF: What is typically your favorite article of clothing to wear? AK: I usually buy staple pieces like a good white t-shirt or a solid long-sleeved shirt. I wear them so much. They are great for layering and you can wear them with everything. MF: What is currently your favorite piece of clothing? AK: My favorite piece right now is a white lace top that I got from Urban Outfitters. I can wear it with so many different types of outfits, which is great. I wear it with a blazer and heels to make it classy, or pair it with pink tights to give my outfit a funky edge. MF: What is your favorite season to dress for? AK: I love dressing for the winter because I like being able to wear multiple layers of clothing at one time. In the summer it is harder to dress well because there are less pieces to wear. It is so difficult for me because when it is hot, I tend to wear a tank top and jeans, whereas in other seasons I can add an accessory like a scarf or cute flats that will make the outfit better. MF: What can you not wait to wear this winter? AK: I have been wearing my circle scarf a lot lately, and will continue to wear it as the weather gets colder. It has a shade that is between
green and blue, so it adds color to what would normally be a dark outfit. Also, if I am cold and don’t want to put on my jacket, I wrap the scarf around me and it keeps me warm. Everyone should get a circle scarf. MF: Do you think that living in the South influenced your style? AK: In the South, I didn’t have many people around me who dressed really trendy or cute. It made me want to venture out from the Abercrombie and Hollister clothes that were popular. I was the first of my friends to move away from these brands so I have really learned to be fashion conscious. MF: In what ways has Brown changed your style? AK: Before coming to Brown, I didn’t own any “going out” clothes. When we went out in the South, I wore cute jeans, a tank top, and heels. Nobody in Birmingham wears see-through shirts with bandeaus or tight skirts and American Apparel clothing. I feel that at Brown, I have started to dress less conservatively when I go out. Another way my style has adjusted in college is that I want to dress “preppier” on a daily basis. I feel that this makes me stand out more than if I dress really trendy. A third change is that I’ve had to learn how to dress for the winter because I never needed to dress warmly in Alabama. I actually only owned one pair of boots in the South so I had to buy more here and especially figure out how to fashionably wear rain boots.
that dean
that girl/that guy
Mary Grace Almandrez By Michelle Frea
I
met with Dean Mary Grace Almandrez, director of the Third World Center and Assistant Dean of the College. Dean Mary Grace is applauded by many not only for her sparkling personality, but also for her phenomenal sense of style. In this interview, Dean Mary Grace talks about herself and her fabulous sense of fashion. It is apparent from this interview that Dean Mary Grace’s style reflects her personality. Both are refreshing, fun, and confident.
MF: I know that you moved to Providence from California. Where did you live before that? DMG: I moved to the United States when I was two years old because my father was in the military. I grew up in San Diego, California and attended the University of San Diego. When I finished my undergraduate education, I moved to Maryland for four years to attend graduate school. After that, I returned to California and lived in the Bay Area until I received the TWC offer from Brown University. MF: Would you say that you identify more as an East Coaster or as a West Coaster? DMG: I am definitely a West Coast person with a West Coast state of mind. I’m a California girl. MF: What are some of your hobbies? DMG: I love to dance, especially through classes like Zumba and Studio Mio. When I lived in the Bay Area I took a different dance class every summer, so have learned salsa and flamenco. I also love to travel. I try to go somewhere international once a year. Plus, I am a self-proclaimed foodie! I cook Filipino food a lot and I like to eat healthy food. When I am grocery shopping I try to buy a new prod-
uct every time. I like to get products that I have never heard of and then experiment with them. MF: How would you describe your style? DMG: When thinking about my fashion sense, I describe it as modern, casual, and comfortable. I don’t necessarily go for the “trendy” things. Instead, I like pieces that can stand the test of time. If I buy something today I want to be able to wear it in five years. MF: How do you spice your fashion up? DMG: I am not very conventional. I like to wear dresses or sarongs over pants. I also like to include one or two accessories that make things pop. I will pair zebra shoes with a black dress to add a little flavor. MF: What is your favorite piece of clothing? DMG: Shoes! I don’t spend very much money on my shoes, usually no more than thirty-five dollars. I love to wear pumps, and feel that they make a statement. In addition to the zebra ones with red heels that I mentioned earlier, I have a bold pair of purple pumps. I also like big rings. I don’t care how crazy they look…I find them fun!
poetry
there was an explosion III. After, I’ll collect images like bottle caps, from greasy streets, or stadium seats, ruined scenes strung together like beads. I’ll line them up by the door, shoes for a quick getaway II. During, the highway courses through me day bleeds into night bleeds leaving skid marks all up my arms into day bleeds night, bleeds gas smell in my hair poetry, a wound, bleeds into every sunset even as tires press me down like tongue depressors, preventing me from speech, I think of writing. I stand on the meridian, screaming How do I get out? the cars are still zooming by no man’s land spinning out in blinking lane lines between them stretching like the distance between us back then I. Before, when our bodies laid shoulder to shoulder, They made a deep ravine into which the sun never bleeds into which two can scream of the insurmountable distance in unison. because only in the yawning blank can we claim to see the tapestry of this life, to prove that earth was we and we were earth, interweaved, and we will write poems proclaiming: In this interstice lies, the secret strength of things and we will not remember why -Vera Carothers ‘14
Diane Zhou
art
“Flashback” Hyoju Lim
Sheila Sitaram
art
Sheila Sitaram
Chelsea English
art
Chelsea English
Alison Kirsch
art
“Daisy & Rosie” Susan Chen
“Lola’s Cupcakes” Susan Chen
art
“Vogue” Susan Chen
photographer: MJ Batson stylists: Eve Blazo and Erin Schwartz hair: Eve Blazo makeup: Dani Grodsky special thanks to the Production Workshop costume department
Litany
by Billy Collins You are the bread and the knife, the crystal goblet and the wine. You are the dew on the morning grass and the burning wheel of the sun. You are the white apron of the baker, and the marsh birds suddenly in flight. However, you are not the wind in the orchard, the plums on the counter, or the house of cards. And you are certainly not the pine-scented air. There is just no way that you are the pine-scented air. It is possible that you are the fish under the bridge, maybe even the pigeon on the general’s head, but you are not even close to being the field of cornflowers at dusk. And a quick look in the mirror will show that you are neither the boots in the corner nor the boat asleep in its boathouse. It might interest you to know, speaking of the plentiful imagery of the world, that I am the sound of rain on the roof. I also happen to be the shooting star, the evening paper blowing down an alley and the basket of chestnuts on the kitchen table. I am also the moon in the trees and the blind woman’s tea cup. But don’t worry, I’m not the bread and the knife. You are still the bread and the knife. You will always be the bread and the knife, not to mention the crystal goblet and--somehow--the wine.
model: Jennifer Sieber
Nobody, Not Even The Rain by E.E. Cummings
Today, my oldest daughter ran home to tell me that her most favourite boy-friend had given her a handmade Valentine’s card. Red, heartshaped, with a photo of her on the front, it was accompanied by a small chocolate which she ate for her dessert. Her grin today has been enormous. I received the best present ever in my inbox from my most favourite boy-friend – the beautiful ee cummings love poem “somewhere i have never travelled,gladly beyond”. I’ll share it with you: somewhere i have never travelled,gladly beyond any experience,your eyes have their silence: in your most frail gesture are things which enclose me, or which i cannot touch because they are too near your slightest look easily will unclose me though i have closed myself as fingers, you open always petal by petal myself as Spring opens (touching skillfully,mysteriously)her first rose or if your wish be to close me,i and my life will shut very beautifully,suddenly, as when the heart of this flower imagines the snow carefully everywhere descending; nothing which we are to perceive in this world equals the power of your intense fragility:whose texture compels me with the colour of its countries, rendering death and forever with each breathing (i do not know what is is about you that closes and opens; only something in me understands the voice of your eyes is deeper than all roses) nobody,not even the rain,has such small hands I don’t know whose grin was bigger, hers or mine.
models: Dani Grodsky and Morgan Bonin
Having a Coke with you by Frank O’Hara
is even more fun than going to San Sebastian, Irún, Hendaye, Biarritz, Bayonne or being sick to my stomach on the Travesera de Gracia in Barcelona partly because in your orange shirt you look like a better happier St. Sebastian partly because of my love for you, partly because of your love for yoghurt partly because of the fluorescent orange tulips around the birches partly because of the secrecy our smiles take on before people and statuary it is hard to believe when I’m with you that there can be anything as still as solemn as unpleasantly definitive as statuary when right in front of it in the warm New York 4 o’clock light we are drifting back and forth between each other like a tree breathing through its spectacles and the portrait show seems to have no faces in it at all, just paint you suddenly wonder why in the world anyone ever did them I look at you and I would rather look at you than all the portraits in the world except possibly for the Polish Rider occasionally and anyway it’s in the Frick which thank heavens you haven’t gone to yet so we can go together the first time and the fact that you move so beautifully more or less takes care of Futurism just as at home I never think of the Nude Descending a Staircase or at a rehearsal a single drawing of Leonardo or Michelangelo that used to wow me and what good does all the research of the Impressionists do them when they never got the right person to stand near the tree when the sun sank or for that matter Marino Marini when he didn’t pick the rider as carefully as the horse it seems they were all cheated of some marvelous experience which is not going to go wasted on me which is why I am telling you about it
models: Adeline Mitchell and Cael Thompson
models: Helene Vincent and Mila Owen
I Don’t Love You by Pablo Naruda
I don’t love you as if you were the salt-rose, topaz or arrow of carnations that propagate fire: I love you as certain dark things are loved, secretly, between the shadow and the soul. I love you as the plant that doesn’t bloom and carries hidden within itself the light of those flowers, and thanks to your love, darkly in my body lives the dense fragrance that rises from the earth. I love you without knowing how, or when, or from where, I love you simply, without problems or pride: I love you in this way because I don’t know any other way of loving but this, in which there is no I or you, so intimate that your hand upon my chest is my hand, so intimate that when I fall asleep it is your eyes that close.
model: Anna Muselmann
Mad Girl Love Song by Sylvia Plath
I shut my eyes and all the world drops dead; I lift my lids and all is born again. (I think I made you up inside my head.) The stars go waltzing out in blue and red, And arbitrary blackness gallops in: I shut my eyes and all the world drops dead. I dreamed that you bewitched me into bed And sung me moon-struck, kissed me quite insane. (I think I made you up inside my head.) God topples from the sky, hell’s fires fade: Exit seraphim and Satan’s men: I shut my eyes and all the world drops dead. I fancied you’d return the way you said, But I grow old and I forget your name. (I think I made you up inside my head.) I should have loved a thunderbird instead; At least when spring comes they roar back again. I shut my eyes and all the world drops dead. (I think I made you up inside my head.)
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