UP Winter 2018 Issue by Up Magazine

Open 24 hours a day Classes available Cinematic cardio room Tanning bed Showers on site

contents

Winter 2018 8

A Timeline of the Tee

Craftsmanship

Read All About it

Fighting the Good Fight

Read UP

Glamping

An Introduction to Inclusion

Intentionally Icy

Royal Style Reigns Supreme

A Look into Modern Intimacy

Worlds Collide: â&#x20AC;&#x2122;90s Meet Now

Subdued Splendor

Praise Be to Purpose

Why Nourishment is More Than A Necessity

Elegance v. Extra

Modern Feminism

Take it for a Spin

The Born-Again Art of Luxury

Iris van Herpen

3 | Winter 2018

staff list Editor-in-Chief Madelaine Wood

Creative Director Libby Swofford

Publisher

Lily Manchester

Director of Operations Karolina Ulasevich

Fashion Director Olivia Mancy

Photo Editors Livvy List Junho Moon

Video Director Astrid Cabello

Event Planners Coley Frommeyer Rachel Price

Marketing Directors Claire Markley

Senior Blog Editor Tori Levy

writers

Erin Adelman Adrienne Bechtel Maddie Clegg Bella Douglas Nina Franco Madysen George Evie Howard Lauren Klocinski Molly Nicholas Emma Nolan Julia Plant Adler Smith Kaylee Spahr Sophie Thompson bloggers

Tyler Aberle Julia Asphar Lizzie Carter Gabriella Dini Bella Douglas Allie Eames Madelyn Hopkins Abby Malone Abigail Padgett Meg Scott Kaylee Spahr Megan Stapleton Hannah Star Claire Vaughn layout designers

Blog Editor

Caroline Adams Corinne Brown Alissa Cook Stephanie Hamilton Morgan Lawrence Adzaan Muqtadir Becca Nissen Hanna Sylla Anneliese Zak

Vivian Drury

Web Editor Allie Herriott

Copy Editors Haley Jena Kev O'Hara

Social Media Manager Brooke Figler

Social Media Designer Becca Nissen

cover models: Keegan

4 | Winter 2018

Homes and Celine Schulte

print photographers

Douglas Chan Kendall Erickson Allison Jenkins Bel Meals Kira Salsman Christina Vitellas Lauren Walker Katie Wickman

blog/street style photographers

Grace Dafler Shuo Han Morgan Minnock Caroline Plonski Daniel Romo Avery Salomon Maggie Smerdel Sophie Thompson videographers

Maddie Brown Ashley Hetherington Daniel Romo Christina Vitellas Katie Wickman Julia Wilson print stylists

Sofia Bazianos Amelia Boo Erin Haymaker Katrina Kariotis Ben Krautheim Kate Kronstein Caitlyn Maskalunas Maggie Miller Olivia Petas Lilly Schneider Tatum Suter Gigi Zhu makeup

Olivia Brown Erin Haymaker Hannah Silverman Lily Sloan

blog stylists

Natalie Gruenwald Hailey Lowe Jaclyn Schutjer Meg Scott Samantha Shore Lily Sloan event planning

Brooke Bantle Bridget Bonanni Kendall Chabut Cora Harter Amy Holbrook Alex Jimenez Lauren Marchese Jenna Mrocko Jessica Pembroke Aleah Sexton marketing

Alexandra Bogut Madison Clement Casey Doran Morgan Henry Jillian Jensen Alex Jimenez Ellie Krug Annie Lougheed Taylor McManus Maggie Miller Brett Schaaf Sarah Semon Adriana Wilcoxon faculty advisor

Annie-Laurie Blair finance advisor

Fred Reeder Jr.

| 2008 Lauren Kelly Kelly Phelan founders

printer

RR Donnelley

letter from the editor

Dear Readers, I recently started listening to a fashion and culture podcast called The High Low, hosted by two deliciously British writers and personalities Dolly Alderton and Pandora Sykes. While I recommend their witty banter and intelligent cultural discussions to anyone interested, what I love most about the broadcast is its name and structure. The High Low refers to the concept of high low journalism, which produces a mix of stories and topics that are intellectually stimulating (some would say “high brow”), and other materials that are buzzy, trendy and entertaining (or “low brow”). Alderton and Sykes seamlessly transition from coverage of politics and worldly affairs to more cheeky pieces concerning anything from relationships to skin care regimens. The idea that people can be both sophisticated and silly, smart and carefree struck a chord with the UP staff as we brainstormed the theme for this winter edition. These juxtaposing concepts are carefully curated for a reason. They are done intentionally and they are executed with purpose. From the time my tiny hands could hold a pencil or punch keys, I was obsessed with the physical act of writing. I loved the way it made me feel and took every opportunity I could to write about my life, whether it was in a spiral notebook or on my grandmother’s ancient typewriter, as seen in the picture below. Writing has always been an outlet to make sense of the world around me and has given me the ability to compose narratives that serve a purpose. Welcome to the Purpose issue. Everyone is motivated by different factors that dictate their thoughts, actions and words. People make decisions and advocate for causes because they’re able to discern

their purpose and see embedded meaning. Amid the recent wave of immense bravery demonstrated through movements like Time’s Up and #MeToo, we must remember how crucial it is to behave deliberately and respectfully. In this issue, we consciously crafted a mix of artful high and low culture pieces that showcase how purpose can be found in all aspects of life. We incorporated this mix by making the issue a flip and featuring both male and female covers to promote and welcome inclusiveness. Start with Bella Douglas’ article on page 10 that highlights fashion’s history of exquisite craftsmanship.

For many years, elegant taste and hard work have been highly-coveted when it comes to constructing custom garments in the industry. It’s time to shed a light on those creators behind the scenes who have made fashion their purpose.

Speaking of elegance, make sure you check out co-photo editor Junho Moon’s take on luxurious black and white photography in the editorial Subdued Splendor, starting on page 40. While black and white might seem like a dated duo, this spread’s simplicity showcases why it’s a clear-cut combination seen season after season. It wouldn’t be right to model this issue after high low journalism without mentioning the very woman who coined the phrase. The fascinating dichotomy is said to be the signature work of Tina Brown, former editor-in-chief of Vanity Fair, whose new memoir happens to be featured on page 20 as UP’s first book club recommendation. Brown resurrected Vanity Fair in the 1980s and was responsible for bringing credibility and respect back to the legendary Condé Nast publication. Bold and unwavering in her convictions, Brown shows us all what it means to embody purpose in everyday life. As you browse through this issue, enjoy the variety of perspectives we’ve collected to represent the dynamic society we live in. At UP, we believe that everyone can establish their individual purpose in a world of constantly changing highs and lows. Much UP Love,

Madelaine Wood Editor-in-Chief

5 | Winter 2018

pur·pose \pərpəs/ (noun) the reason for which something is done or created or for which something exists; a person’s sense of resolve or determination; to have as one’s intention or objective.

6 | Winter 2018

7 | Winter 2018

styled by Ben Krautheim makeup by Hannah Silverman models: Katherine Johnson, Anna Minton, Shane Fabio, and Don Choi photographed by Maggie Smerdel

A TIMELINE OF THE TEE: the transformation of graphic t-shirts written by Maddie Clegg

f you’ve walked the streets of Oxford on a Saturday afternoon, chances are you’ve come across the sought-after, regenerated trend of graphic T-shirts. Whether you’re promoting a designer brand, displaying your cherished vintage band tee or simply recreating a look you saw on Instagram, the graphic tee has come a long way since its creation in the early 1940s. From military advertisements to runway couture, the graphic tee has had a prosperous life, and we’ve loved every decade.

8 | Winter 2018

1940s–EARLY 1960s The birth of the graphic T-shirt began in the early 1940s when Life Magazine used a picture of a young man wearing a graphic tee with an advertisement for the “Air Corps Gunnery School” for the cover photo. This was the first time a plain T-shirt had been curated for outerwear use instead of underwear. It was also the first time a T-shirt was used as a form of advertisement. The 1960s also welcomed the first big business to take advantage of the screen-printed graphics. The Walt Disney Company began to mass produce T-shirts with Mickey Mouse and his pals on them. This was only the beginning of the graphic tee revolution.

1970s–1980s

THE MIAMI TAKE

The ’70s and ’80s were perhaps the most transformative years for the graphic tee. Music and bands were the first collective group of people to deem the graphic tee as trendsetting. Girls and guys alike wore their favorite band T-shirts to the concert, and after the concert you could pick up more at the merch stand.

Although Oxford might not be a world fashion hub, Miami University students are devoted to fashion trends. Without hesitation, Miami students adopted the ease and unique presentation of the graphic tee. For several women, graphic tees can often be observed on the streets of uptown, paired with high waisted pants, leather and jean skirts, faux fur jackets and a pair of aviators. For guys, catch them styled underneath jackets and matched with jeans or khakis.

MTV’s use of advertising on T-shirts also took off during this era. Not only did people yearn to wear a shirt with the MTV logo, but they wanted T-shirts of what they were listening to and watching on the television network.

TODAY: HIGH FASHION In the ever-evolving world of high fashion, trends come and go. And right now, graphics tees are wholeheartedly in vogue. Designer brands like Guess, Gucci, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy and more have started merchandising high-end graphic tees. An adaption of the graphic tee more popularly known as “slogan tees” splattered the runways of Fashion Week last spring. Slogan tees are graphic T-shirts that have a small statement written on them. Some slogans that graced the runway during spring fashion weeks from New York to Paris were “Futuresex” (Peter Saville), “Thriving” (Baja East), and “We Should All Be Feminists” (Christian Dior). So what has attracted these high-end designers to incorporate graphic tees into their Fifth Avenue looks? For starters, our generation thrives on activism and speaking up. In the past, you might have been told to keep your opinion and views to your lonesome. Now more than ever, people are fearless and encouraged to share their perceptions of the world. And what better way to express yourself than in a dropped shoulder crew neck graphic tee from Dior? Along with activism, the rise of graphic tees stems from their elementary simplicity. They are easy to make, enjoyable to wear and impossible to overlook.

Junior Gigi Alvarez considers herself an advocate for high-end fashion and a graphic tee enthusiast. She explained why this re-established trend works for her. “I love fashion and everything that comes with it, but I also like to be comfortable. Graphic tees are the happy medium for me. I can incorporate the designers I like and still give off a relaxed, carefree vibe,” Alvarez said. She continued by saying how she transitions the look from fall to winter. “In the fall I love the look of a graphic tee paired with a skirt and light jacket,” she said. “But for the winter time, I usually choose to combine the graphic tee with a pair of Lululemon leggings, long black down coat and Vans. This look is both comfortable and warm—which is a necessity for getting through Ohio winters.” In whichever way you choose to incorporate the graphic tee into your daily life, we hope you take a minute to recognize its amazing lifespan.

“The graphic tee has had a prosperous life, and we’ve loved every decade.”

9 | Winter 2018

CRAFTSMANSHIP: reinstating

PURPOSE in modern fashion

styled by Brad Biskaduros model: Matt Lee photographed by Christina Vitellas 10 | Winter 2018

written by Bella Douglas

ince the beginning of time itself, humans have been living, working, making and producing. The only thing that has changed is the tools we use to do so. Craftsmen recognize this. They understand the history of their products and the intent behind them. They understand how they were made and how they evolved over time. However, in today’s fast-paced and technology driven world, they are a rare breed— especially in fashion. Their scarcity seems counter-intuitive, considering that fashion is a respected visual art form. It is intimately intertwined with the fabric of our culture. However, where do we draw the line? Can you really consider the $6 T-shirt you bought at H&M art? Perhaps the overexposed nature of the industry has drowned out the traditional marks of craftsmanship: attention to detail, expertise and passion. This is evident in the rise of “fast fashion,” which is mass-produced and a far cry from fashion’s artful origins. Granted, the logic behind fast fashion’s success is clear. Why pay a premium for a unique piece when you can get one that looks enough like it for a fraction of the price? Contemporary craftsmanship has taken a backseat to convenience, and quality has suffered at the hands of quantity. While it’s easy to recognize the worth of something that has been expertly constructed, we often find ourselves choosing the cheap and easy option. This current phenomenon can be juxtaposed against tailoring. Dating back to the early middle ages, tailoring is the art of designing, fitting and finishing garments. Today’s tailors typically create bespoke, or custom, men’s suiting and are considered to be among the most respected in the garment industry. However, modern garment construction often neglects precise tailoring, leaving this storied craft in the dust. According to Jana Scholze, co-curator of the exhibition “What is Luxury” at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, “Craft … is about making something that is so unique that it can only be made one time, and ... appreciating the passion and endless obsession of these makers.” It seems that such artisanship is increasingly hard to come by, given that we live in a world where efficiency of production is valued and things are made to be disposable. Fashion designer Amy Kuschel described this dilemma perfectly. 11 | Winter 2018

“More than ever, you’re inundated with opportunities to buy clothes, from poorly made fast fashion, to frivolous, high-end couture,” she said. “You end up overwhelmed by a closet full of pretty things, and nothing to wear.” Ironically enough, the suit has long been a symbolic garment of counter-creativity. Some blame Wall Street for the decline of tailoring—in particular, Domenico Dolce, who was a tailor long before he was a fashion designer, points a finger at Wall Street. Following J.P. Morgan Chase & Co.’s announcement that their employees would no longer be required to wear suits, Dolce responded, “People think tailoring is boring. The companies and the press have killed the tailoring dream. Because tailoring as they see it is pinstripe, gray, old, boring, and sad ... The big companies and Wall Street killed the tailor. Because when you talk about tailoring you think of bourgeois in the worst way… But real tailoring is a different thing.” Perhaps society’s general apathy toward craftsmanship should be viewed as both a challenge and an opportunity. Following the release of Giorgio Armani’s Spring 2017 menswear line, Mr. Armani commented, “… Tailoring has never been out of style … In my opinion, it can be perfect … even for today’s fast, athletic, and on-the-go generations. All you have to do is skillfully interpret it according to the times.” Former bond trader Rob McMillan seems to be doing just that. After leaving his job at the Chicago Stock Market two years ago, McMillan launched Dearborn Denim, a made-to-measure denim company. He took note of how difficult it was to find a wellfitting pair of jeans at a decent price, and as a result, Dearborn Denim was born. McMillan has hired local seamstresses and tailors, allowing each pair of jeans to be custom-made to customers’ measurements. Of Dearborn Denim’s mainstream accessibility, McMillan said, “I’m not about exclusivity and I want our product to be as affordable as possible, to be as inclusive as possible.” He adds, “Don’t confuse price with quality. Our fabric is the best of the best in terms of stretch denims, and our construction is strong.”

12 | Winter 2018

McMillan proves that we don’t need to forgo craftsmanship for affordability and that tailoring isn’t just for bureaucrats, even if at one point he was one. Craftsmanship, although increasingly elusive, will never be obsolete. It remains at the core of our fashion, our art—even in this modern era. Without it, what we wear will lose its integrity. When paired with today’s techniques, it has even greater potential. Jiang Qiong’er, the creative director and chief executive of Chinese luxury fashion brand Shang Xia, said it best, “The first step is learning. When we have some experience, then we can go further… I think the best protection for the preservation of craftsmanship is innovation.”

â&#x20AC;&#x153;craft is about making something that is so unique that it can only be made one time, appreciating the passion and endless obsession of these makersâ&#x20AC;?

13 | Winter 2018

styled by Olivia Mancy and Katrina Kariotis models: Anna Quenneville and Emma Nook photographed by Livvy List 14 | Winter 2018

15 | Winter 2018

16 | Winter 2018

17 | Winter 2018

written by Sophie Thompson

he gates are surrounded by a small crowd, huddled together in the approaching shadows of an autumn night. The wind howls and stings, yet the crowd proves unperturbed. They chatter in the cold, holding their signs, handmade with marker and sharpie. They wait. A megaphone crackles amid the rush of cars passing by. The crowd hushes in anticipation. A student makes her way to the front. The rally begins. It is a night I will never forget. The crowd is about 50 people in size, all of them focused and determined to spread awareness about one topic: sexual assault. There is an even spread of both men and women, some of them survivors and others who just want to share their support. The rally begins with cheers and slogans, shouting strongly to let Oxford know what the purpose of this gathering is. “When women’s rights are under attack, what do we do? Stand up, fight back!” The thundering echo of the rally reverberates around uptown Oxford, and makes its way back to the heart of Miami University as the group walks toward campus, continuing their chanting. Together they walk, a tight-knit crowd, their mission carrying them forward as they filter into Armstrong Student Center. One by one, they gather in a circle around the seal, their voices filling the building, causing the late-night inhabitants of Armstrong to look up in surprise. The rally members meet each stare they receive with unflinching resolve. Each person stands, signs held firmly in front of their body, ready for what is to come. A woman comes forward and spreads her hands. She invites members of the rally to speak, to say anything they would like about the reason they are gathered here today. She assures the crowd that anyone who wishes to speak will be offered a chance. A short pause. A few heartbeats pass. For a moment, silence reigns. It seems no one will say anything. Then a student steps out from the circle and crosses to the front. The crowd claps. Encouraging smiles are offered, full attention given. She opens her mouth, takes a deep breath, and speaks.

18 | Winter 2018

It is the first of a series of heartbreaking narratives. A story unfolds—how it happened. When. The aftermath. Learning to cope. Another person speaks after the first. A different tale, with different circumstances and reactions. More and more people leave the circle to offer those listening a gift—the truth. The truth of what happened to them and so many others; a powerful description of what they endured and survived. Men and women bravely reveal their stories with unwavering support for one another, and after each person finishes speaking, a round of applause, as well as comfort and love await them. Listening to their accounts, I felt my heart tear in two. That was the moment I knew how important this issue is. To see the tears stream down their faces, to hear the catch in their throats and the shaky breaths they let go when telling their stories—that was the moment I knew this was real. Staying silent was not an option anymore. Which was why, when reports on the Harvey Weinstein scandal came pouring in that very same month, I read each and every article. I thought back to the rally and knew how hard it was for these women to come forward because I had heard firsthand how survivors of sexual assault were ignored and disbelieved when they told someone they trusted. I knew that it was of paramount importance that victims of sexual assault be believed and that they receive support and help immediately. Sexual assault is an issue surrounding our society every day. Awareness has been raised. Now it’s time to do something about it. Andrew Houston, President of MARS (Men Against Rape and Sexual Assault), said, “The best way to prevent this from happening is to intervene. There are usually witnesses to the buildup of many sexual assaults and all it takes is someone to step up and say something.” So when you see any sexual assault or harassment of any kind, step up. And in the echoing words of the rally, fight back. Contact the National Sexual Assault hotline at 800.656.HOPE (4673)

19 | Winter 2018

READ UP:

JOIN OUR LITERARY LEAGUE

written by Madelaine Wood

t risk of ruining any ounce of “street cred” I’ve developed as editor-in-chief of the ultra-cool UP Magazine, I must admit that there’s not much I love more than curling up with an intriguing read and a steaming mug of java. I know what you’re thinking, and yes, I am only 21 years old. I’m not sure when or how it happened—it probably has something to do with the sweeping popularity of streaming services and podcasts—but reading isn’t considered “cool” anymore. Let me

20 | Winter 2018

clarify. I guess it can be said that the “indie hipster coffee house” bunch still read, but when I hear that characterization I think of film students clad in oversized Goodwill sweaters pontificating about Tolstoy and Dickens, rather than a quiet evening in with a new work of contemporary fiction. I think it’s pretty widely known among the mid-’90s born generation that we don’t really read unless it’s something published on Twitter or written about a widely-followed celebrity’s misstep.

styled by Caitlyn Maskalunas makeup by Hannah Silverman models: Rachel Lowrie and Emily Hooker photographed by Bel Meals

Listen, I’m not here to say you’re not intelligent or culturally apropos if you don’t read at least a few books over the course of a year. I’m not here to shame those who haven’t picked up a book since AP Literature in high school. I am here to say that at UP, we believe in the importance of bettering ourselves—mind, body and soul. And personally, I believe reading is one of the best ways to do this. That’s why we’ve decided to release an UP book of the month. Every month on our website (upfashionmagazine.org) we will unveil a book that our staff members love and think is worth a read. The corresponding online post will encourage discussion of the month’s choice via comments, emails or even old-school, hand-written letters to our editorial board. If you’re looking for a way to enrich your view of the world around you, look no further than our monthly pick.

As I step off my soapbox, allow me to introduce you to February’s book of the month: “The Vanity Fair Diaries” by Tina Brown. This memoir reads like fiction—the effortlessly chic and devilishly funny tales of legendary magazine editor Tina Brown’s time at the helm of Vanity Fair is sure to inspire male and female readers alike to be unapologetically true to themselves in all facets of life. “The Vanity Fair Diaries” is a wonderfully genuine tale of a woman finding her voice that also serves as a behind-the-scenes glance into the glitz and glamour of publishing in the late 20th century. It’s utterly fascinating to follow Brown’s journey as a young Brit making a name for herself in New York City while she grows emotionally and advances in her high-powered career. So go ahead, find a cozy corner, brew up your favorite warm beverage, and get lost in the pages of Brown’s latest work. Don’t forget to let us know what you think—after all, UP’s purpose is to inspire you as you inspire others every day. Send your feedback to upfashionmag@gmail.com, check out our website (www.upfashionmagazine.org) or slip a note into our office, 3016 Armstrong. 21 | Winter 2018

GLAMPING HOW TO "ROUGH IT" UP

written by Molly Nicholas

ave you ever wanted to take a step back from constant assignment notifications and 500 unread emails, but didn’t want to drive to the middle of nowhere to do so? Glamping is your solution. Combine glamour and camping and you end up with one of the trendiest ways to enjoy the relaxation of nature, without having to pitch the tent yourself. This brings camping up to speed with modern-day luxuries, removing the idea of “roughing it” from camping. The main difference between glamping and camping is the type of tent you stay in. What could be so cool about a tent, you may ask? Look no further than the yurt, an advanced tent with amenities that were never associated with camping before. A yurt usually includes electricity, a real bed, private bathrooms and even Wi-Fi. Treehouses are also a popular way to experience glamping. Additionally, there’s no need to cook over a handmade fire—meals are typically provided for you. With all of these amenities, you are still able to immerse yourself in nature and experience the great outdoors from a luxurious standpoint. Sydney Reid, a junior at Miami University, visited

22 | Winter 2018

Under Canvas luxury camps in Moab, Utah. Under Canvas is a glamping company that has luxury camps across the USA in Montana, Tennessee, Arizona, Utah and South Dakota. The company’s website, undercanvas.com, has a variety of yurts to choose from, all with views of the deep canyons and desert terrain of Arches National Park. “Free People did a photoshoot here a couple years ago, which is where my friend heard about the glamping site,” Reid said. “I’d never heard of glamping before, but it was so much different than your typical vacation or camping trip.” The luxury camp has more to offer than a typical campsite. For instance, she could see the desert from her bed each morning when she woke up. “The best part was waking up at 6 a.m. to watch the sunrise in the desert because the camp was in the middle of nowhere,” Reid said. Reid believes glamping is a much easier way to experience nature than regular camping because so much is provided for you. Additionally, there’s no need to worry about a bear attacking your campsite because you accidentally left your s’mores by the campfire.

If you’re ready to try this unique type of vacation, here are some of UP’s recommendations for your next glamping trip:

styled by Sofia Bazianos makeup by Olivia Brown model: Daria Hofbauer photographed by Douglas Chan

for readers looking to glamp in ohio:

for readers looking for a little more adventure:

Nomad Ridge at The Wilds 1400 International Rd., Cumberland, OH 43732 www.thewilds.columbuszoo.org There are multiple yurts available in Cumberland within your price range: Woodland, Premium or Grand. The yurts include Wi-Fi, bamboo flooring, beds, private bathrooms, a deck with a view of the animals and a safari tour. The Wilds’ animal pastures are sure to make you feel like you are a part of nature even while you enjoy the luxury of your yurt.

Log Cabin Wilderness Lodge 98.5 Tok Cutoff, Tok, Alaska 99780 www.logcabinwildernesslodge.com Located in the Mentasta Mountains in Alaska, you’re guaranteed a unique experience in this winter wonderland. Activities include skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling and observing wildlife. There are a few different cabins to choose from, but all of them include Wi-Fi. Breakfast and dinner are also included in your stay.

Hueston Woods State Park 6301 Park Office Rd., College Corner, OH 45003 www.huestonwoodslodge.com If you’re starting to get bored of your dorm room, Hueston Woods is only about a 15-minute drive from Miami’s campus. There is one yurt onsite at the Hueston Woods campgrounds, which includes electricity, a refrigerator, a microwave, a TV and an outdoor grill. Linens are not provided, so be sure to bring your sleeping bag and pillow!

Amazing Stargazing Capsules Sedona, Arizona Book a capsule on Airbnb or TripAdvisor Sedona’s night sky is perfect for stargazing because of its distance from bright cities. In these airtight stargazing capsules, you can fall asleep comfortably under the stars without having to worry about mosquitos or weather. The capsule has a memory foam bed, power outlets, Wi-Fi and a shower shared with one other capsule. 23 | Winter 2018

styled by Coquise Frost models: Rose Naylor, Gabby Brown, and Kelly Milan photographed by Allison Jenkins

written by Emma Nolan

’m a size four most of the time. I can never order dresses online because I have a short torso and long legs that follow a set of wider hips. My favorite cheetah jacket is a size large, my comfiest sweater is a small and I have two favorite pants from Lululemon—one’s

24 | Winter 2018

a size six, the other a two. Although I don’t fit into just one size—or even just two—I still feel confident in my body. Like any other person, it did take me a while to get there. But now that I like the way I look, I feel happy.

As much as I have learned to love my body, there will always be moments that I feel insecure and question myself. I try not to, but it’s hard to feel confident all the time when the word beautiful is often associated with Victoria’s Secret models. If I eat the right amount of food and exercise as much as I can, why aren’t there any famous models with a body like mine? In the past few years, magazines like Sports Illustrated, brands like Aerie and Forever 21 and organizations like the Council of Fashion Designers of America have made sufficient efforts to add plussize models to runways and the media. These changes have shown the 67 percent of American women who are plus-size that they are just as beautiful and just as “real” as everyone else. While these improvements in the fashion industry have been influential, it’s not enough. There is an entire other category—the “Inbetweeners” we will call them—that aren’t represented in the spotlight. Nowadays, there aren’t just “body types” to define how a person looks. If the fashion industry, clothing companies and other corporations really want to effectively gain the respect of all types, these Inbetweener models need to be included. For young girls and boys, there is no better way to teach them to love themselves than including all types of individuals in the “beautiful” stereotype. The pressures of looking a certain way on the runway and in media is very prominent for males, too. From six packs to V-lines, our society has taught us that these men are perfect. This shows that, although there may not be as prominent of a body-positivemovement for male models as there is for female ones, it ought to be addressed. For instance, when you Google “Male Runway Models”, the first thing to come up is an article by The Balance. The headline snippet reads, “... in general male runway models should: Be between 6' and 6'2'' tall, Have a 38'' to 40'' chest, Have a 30'' to 32'' waist.” I didn’t Google “male model requirements,” yet the first thing to appear is a description of an ideal type of man, demonstrating how the fashion industry

unfairly caters to more fit male models. Here, it is easy to see a problematic pressure that the modeling industry places on their male models. It suggests to young boys that if there is any difference between one body and another that fulfills these requirements, then the former is not good enough. “Today, we have ‘plus-size models’ and then just ‘models.’ We don’t have a name for the super-skinny models. Scholarship would say there's a term for that called exnomination,” said Dr. Ron Becker, a professor of media and culture at Miami. “An example of exnomination is saying basketball and women’s basketball. When you have a name attached to specify a certain group, but the other one isn’t called out as anything, that’s evidence that the unlabeled one is the norm; the thing you're supposed to follow. A tip for social change that would come out of that class would be to come up with a name for the skinny models. Which would shift how people thought about them.” By limiting the types of models in the media and on the runway and labeling them in a certain way, it is harder to accept changes that should be made in the fashion industry. Caroline O’Connor, a model for Miami University Fashion and Design, recognizes the issue of body image in fashion. O'Connor has struggled with her self-image, but decided she had to make a change to strive for health, and not society's image of perfection. “Through fitness and nutrition, I learned to love myself and accept my body just the way it is,” O’Connor said. “Our bodies give us the ability to live life to the fullest and I think there is no better way to show self-love than by taking care of it and keeping it healthy.” O’Connor spends a lot of her time in front of the camera and on the runway. Through her own experience, she sees that there are still major changes that need to be made in the industry. “The shift needs to be in the mindset of the business, not just in the variety of bodies appearing on the runway,” O’Connor said. “When the mindset changes, then the public will begin to see those changes reflected in the media.”

25 | Winter 2018

styled by Kate Kronstein makeup by Erin Haymaker models: Trevor Sahr and Lauren Marchese photographed by Christina Vitellas 26 | Winter 2018

27 | Winter 2018

28 | Winter 2018

29 | Winter 2018

30 | Winter 2018

31 | Winter 2018

royal style reigns

SUPREME

written by Nina Franco

n April 29, 2011, Prince William, the Duke of Cambridge, wed Catherine Middleton, a fellow classmate at the University of St. Andrew’s. It was an affair to remember. Despite only being in the seventh grade, my eyes were set on becoming a member of the British royal family. There were only two opportunities to do so— I had to marry either Prince Williamor Prince Harry. Unfortunately, Prince William’s engagement to this effortlessly beautiful, smart and kind “Kate” was a direct threat to my plans. I vowed to end this relationship by way of a strongly worded letter to Queen Elizabeth II. Upon reading my opinions, a seventh grader from Buffalo, New York, with minimal knowledge about Middleton, I was sure that she would immediately disapprove of the wedding. Nevertheless, as I watched Middleton cascade ever-so gracefully down the aisle of Westminster Abbey in a dress designed by Sarah Burton, a prodigy of Alexander McQueen, I relinquished Prince William to Middleton. It seems I wasn’t alone in my awe, for The New York Times cited her dress as a “flawless success,” which may not sound like an exceptional compliment, but to an eager Middleton trying to impress her new family and the public, it was huge. Designer Tory Burch described the wedding dress quite perfectly: “Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen reflects Kate’s modern aesthetic and style, but the handmade lace details and craftsmanship are a great nod to British tradition. “ Ever since her wedding day, Middleton has kept up a modern style while remaining loyal to the British tradition.

32 | Winter 2018

For example, Middleton has wowed audiences in a lavish, sparkly blue Jenny Packham gown at the Royal Variety Performance in London, has channeled her “sporty spice” in a track suit at a Halloween visit to the Lawn Tennis Association and has kept it casual in J. Crew pants and a white Zara blazer at the 1851 Trust Roadshow. She seems to be a jack-of-all-trades; a style icon for all different types of people. “She has to dress the part for her title, but people admire her because her personal style is relatable to a common person,” said Miami University sophomore and designer for Miami University Fashion and Design, Elizabeth Fiocca. Fiocca’s spring 2017 collection was inspired by Middleton. “Her look is refreshing. You don’t have to be sexy to be a fashion icon, you can be subtle and elegant.” Nevertheless, many have suggested that Princess Kate has taken note from her predecessor, the late Princess Diana. “Of all the parallels that the Duchess of Cambridge shares with Diana as the presumed future Queen of England, it's a sophisticated sense of style that might be the most tangible, and certainly the most visible,” said Cady Lang, a fashion and entertainment writer for Time magazine. While they grew up in different decades, Diana, an ’80s fashion icon—shoulder pads and all—and Kate, a ’90s teen with a more conservatively-styled edge, both know how to pick an outfit that fits the occasion. When appearing at charity events for HIV and AIDS research and advocating for anti-landmines in Angola, Princess Diana tended to keep her outfits muted, to put the spotlight on the causes she believed in rather than her fashion choices. Princess Kate has continued this tradition by keeping her style simple at charity events for Heads Together, which is a foundation that works to combat the social stigmas surrounding mental illness.

styled by Amelia Boo model: Emma Alhalel photographed by Katie Wickman

Many of the Duchess’s outfits are strategically planned with a special meaning behind them. According to Brit & Co., on a tour of Gdansk during the royal visit to Poland in 2017, the Duchess wore a necklace made of Baltic amber, a material that makes up a large part of the Gdansk economy. Moreover, on a visit to Germany, Kate wore colors of the German flag and sported Hugo Boss, one of the country’s biggest designers. Having said all that, it comes as no surprise that the Duchess of Cambridge could be considered a premier fashion icon of our time, beating out popculture icons like Kim Kardashian and Lady Gaga.

“She’s different than the flashy American celebrity style, her style has a purpose,” says Fiocca, “It works not only for herself, but what she represents.” Princess Kate’s future sister-in-law, Meghan Markle has turned heads with her style, as well. From wearing a semi-sheer Ralph & Russo engagement gown to wearing more casual apparel and a scandalous messy bun during public appearances, Markle is definitely a style icon to for. Will she continue to challenge the style expectations of the royal family? Or will she follow in Princess Kate’s fashion footsteps? Only time will tell… 33 | Winter 2018

styled by Tatum Suter and Caitlyn Maskalunas models: Alex Hall and Nina Vidic photographed by Morgan Minnock

34 | Winter 2018

TURN THE LIGHTS ON:

written by Vivian Drury

he cotton sheets crinkle against your skin as you roll over. Your mouth is dry, with the taste of last night’s drinks still lingering on your taste buds. You pry open your eyelids, fiddling beneath the bed to find your phone amid the darkness to check the time. The bright screen flashes, causing your eyelids to flutter. 5:42 a.m. You quietly roll out of the sheets, attempting not to disturb the sleeping stranger next to you. You grab your shirt and shoes, yanking on jeans as you slither out the door. The chill of the brisk early morning wind shakes you awake as you step outside and head home, acting as if last night never even happened. How exactly did we get to this point? How did romance go from a dinner and a movie to messaging someone first on Tinder or paying for someone’s

guacamole at Chipotle? When did intimacy become a make out at Brick Street? Is the one-night stand a millennial phenomenon, or something that has always existed? I conducted a survey with Miami University students, asking them about their own experience with romance, intimacy and the one-night stand. Students reported that romance is “distant and toxic” and intimacy is “casual and unimportant.” “Our culture is so immersed in visual media like film and TV and we see intimacy on screens all the time that makes it difficult to pinpoint what it really is,” said Dr. Theresa Kulbaga, a professor of women and gender studies at Miami. “There is an acceptability of talking about intimacy and expressing it in a much more open way, which isn’t a bad thing, but it is different from what was once socially acceptable.” 35 | Winter 2018

36 | Winter 2018

Today’s society is not as black and white as it was back in the 1950s, or even the 1980s and 1990s. Younger generations are refusing to be defined by certain terms and are far more transparent compared to other generations that have come before. “Historically, one-night stands and sex scandals have always happened, but they have been cloaked under a veil of secrecy,” Kulbaga said. Are sexual encounters more openly discussed today? Of course. How could they not be when many—but not all—hook ups have become a game, and “shacker shirts,” composites or bragging rights are the prize? Before I really started to dive into this topic, I thought the lack of “romance” was our fault as a generation. But I came to learn that a lot of it has to do with the media rather than our own actions. Society has become desensitized because of the media's constant push of sex, sex, sex- but maybe that's not such a bad thing. Maybe it should be seen as enabling transparency rather than as a fault. Kulbaga pointed out that sexual experimentation is necessary for people at a young age because it allows them to figure out exactly what they are looking for. Yet based on the survey, many millennials say this new hook up habit isn’t a good one. To them, people are now terrified to show the slightest bit of vulnerability or emotion, for fear of becoming the one to 'catch feels' first. Our minds have transformed to think that baring our bodies is better than baring our emotions. Nowadays, even if you’ve already slept with someone, there seems to be this unspoken rule that you shouldn’t be the first one to feel butterflies in your stomach when the other person texts you. And if you become that person, the fear of being left behind creeps in. So where does commitment fall into all this? An anonymous student reported in the survey that in today’s college culture, “It’s not that people are necessarily scared to commit, it’s that they often

don’t like you enough to do so, they just like you enough for entertainment.” Many students agreed that entering into a relationship is far more serious than having sex. “Sex is known to be the most intimate step that two people can take,” Kulbaga said. “The relationship culture today is so shocking to older generations because millenials have placed being in a relationship as a more serious act than sex.” It can be argued that we are wrapped up in a society that is hooked on instant self-gratification and dependence. This doesn’t apply to everyone, but the desire to be with someone and not go home alone has evolved into a more acceptable action because our satisfaction is now dependent on others. The belief that being with someone else is better than being alone, even if it’s purely for a sexual encounter rather than developing any form of relationship, has become far too popular. The reality we live in exposes many people's desire to live in the now and do what makes them happy in the moment. Because of this, there are no real regards for future consequences because that person and how they satisfy us is what we wanted (or maybe even think we needed) in the moment. The purpose of romance, intimacy and one-night stands is to simply make meaning of this world and the people around us. Romance and intimacy are not concrete and are continuously changing. Regardless of if you think romance is “spending time together and caring about each other” or “Netflix and chill,” your definition is crafted by your own passions and experiences. Your opinion may be further influenced by media, self-gratification or older generations, but it is up to you to decide what works and doesn’t work for you in an intimate relationship. Modern dating ideals should be just as accepted as the ones from the past. Your relationship intentions can be traditional or modern or single or attached, and their purpose can be serious or just for fun. So the next time you swipe right, write your number on a napkin or shamelessly flirt, remember that what choice you make next is entirely up to you.

37 | Winter 2018

styled by Gigi Zhu model: Annie Bowen photographed by Katie Wickman 38 | Winter 2018

written by Evie Howard

ashion is cyclical. This is evident to even the most amateur fashion lover. 2017’s biggest fashion influence, whether it’s seen through MET Gala couture or the fashion at a friendly brunch, is the ’90s. From Rihanna’s re-invention of track pants to a lace-covered Kim Kardashian, the high-fashion industry has leapt on the resurgence of the ’90s and transformed it into something entirely new and ever-changing. I remember growing up and watching my mother pull out clothes she wore when she was a teenager. The oversized sweaters, lace-covered dresses and floral print suits with shoulder pads appalled me. I swore I would never be seen in anything of the like. But now, our generation is dressing like the characters from “Friends” in mom jeans, slip dresses and plaid all over. Miami University freshman Regon Brenner commented, “It’s funny going shopping with my mom, because when I pick something out at the store she always goes off on a tangent about how she had the same thing when she was in college.” ’90s-themed parties are practically obsolete, because

“Celebrities from all facets of the entertainment industry are reinventing the ‘90s into something newly dramatic and more spectacular than ever before.” everyone at any non-themed party already looks like they could have walked straight out of college in 1994. These trends are not only present in the everyday attire of millennials—celebrities from all facets of the entertainment industry are reworking the era into something dramatic and more spectacular than ever before. One of the best known trends from the ’90s are chokers: those devilish necklaces worn to parties that slip around your neck, often in a lace pattern or with jewels hanging off. Hundreds of iconic women in fashion have repurposed these necklaces into something glamorous, from Beyoncé wearing an entire circle of diamonds around her neck to the Grammys to Chloë Grace Moretz sporting a thick band of velvet to the Oscars.

Additionally, slip dresses—velvet and menswearinspired womenswear—are becoming extremely popular for their shiny and sexy allure: Jennifer Lawrence wore a floor-length silver silk slip on a night out in New York City, and Cara Delevingne wore a gender-ambiguous velvet suit-dress to a gala in Los Angeles. Celebrities are taking the traditional ’90s grungy ease and revolutionizing it into something glamorous, elegant and simplistic. Another defining element of the ’90s look is pattern, both in a head-to-toe outfit and in mixing pieces together—the opposite of simplistic. Yet, men and women fashionistas alike have been able to adapt this eccentric and somewhat overwhelming trend into something extremely sophisticated and classy. Harry Styles is known for his wild and outrageous love of patterned suits, from a white and gray floral flare pant to a black and red checkered one. His sense of fashion is regarded by many as outlandish; however, he is redefining the floral and patterned trend of the ’90s into something extremely desirable and high-fashion. Furthermore, those who have continually pushed the bounds of fashion are thriving in the era of patterned clothes. Nicki Minaj and Lady Gaga, while somewhat criticized for their extreme fashion choices, have been commended for wearing some of the most groundbreaking looks in fashion history inspired by this revived love of patterns. Your parents have been saying it for years: “Lace and embroidery will come back into style eventually” and “You shouldn’t be so quick to turn your nose up in disgust.” Sophomore Anna Skudlarek said she thinks people have reverted to the ’90s because “it was such an influential pop culture movement, and people want to get back to that.” On the other hand, freshman Kate Turns believes the ’90s are being repurposed because “it has an ease that everyone wants in their outfits while also being extremely cute. There are only so many different looks out there, but the new ’90s makes everyone feel like their personal style is unique.” My fellow lovers of velvet and mom jeans, it’s time to hike up your silk skirts and pack up your houndstooth suits and apologize for insulting your parents’ old clothes so viciously when you were younger. And then, maybe ask if you could borrow them for the weekend. 39 | Winter 2018

40 | Winter 2018

styled by Lilly Schneider makeup by Olivia Brown models: Gabby Dini and Ellie McGaffie photographed by Junho Moon

41 | Winter 2018

42 | Winter 2018

43 | Winter 2018

written by Erin Adelman

eligion and purpose may seem to go hand-in-hand because religion often gives followers a sense of purpose. However, not everyone seeks religion for the same reason. “Pretty much any religion could potentially be a source of ‘purpose,’ ‘meaning’ or ‘identity’ to its adherents [a follower of the religion],” said Dr. John-Charles Duffy, a professor in the Department of Comparative Religion, “but adherents might or might not think of their participation in the religion in those terms.”

“Religion often gives followers a sense of PURPOSE” He said adherents look to religion for many reasons such as a sense of community or happiness. “Some people commit to a particular religion because they are convinced it is the truth, or because they are convinced it will assure them a desirable state in the afterlife,” he said. “... An observer might decide [it] is the same as ‘purpose’ or ‘meaning,’ but the adherent might not think in those terms.” However, for junior Jocelyn McMinimy, faith gives her life meaning.

44 | Winter 2018

“My purpose is to know God, have a personal relationship with Him, and then to make Him known,” she said. “I strive—note the word strive, I do not do this perfectly or even well most days—to be a reflection of who He is by loving and serving those He has so beautifully put in my path.” Her faith grants her peace about the future, both personally and for the world, she said. In the midst of a chaotic society that is far from peaceful, McMinimy said her “faith in a good God has also provided a huge sense of peace” because she can “rest in knowing that in the midst of … chaos there is a good God at work.” However, McMinimy said she has not always felt spiritually strong. “My first two years of college I was largely living life for myself, striving to love others as best I could and running to God and my faith when I sensed I needed it … I was living this life that we’re supposed to as college students, but I felt this aching emptiness.” This past summer McMinimy said she decided she “couldn’t profess God’s goodness to all [her] friends who didn’t know Him and not live a life that reflected personal faith in His goodness.

styled by Maggie Miller makeup by Lilly Sloan models: Emma Oaks and Carolyn Collins photographed by Lauren Walker

God couldn’t ride in the passenger seat anymore.” McMinimy said she decided God “was completely worth living for and handing over complete control to.” Junior Hannah Clarke’s religion also gives her a purpose, which she said is to create and to liberate. Clarke is eclectic Neopagan, meaning “someone who pulls from various pantheons and spiritual traditions to form a unique and custom tailored faith.” She is Luciferian and devotes to Haides, Persephone, Dionysus, Hecate, Loki and Bastet as well as Abrahamic figures like Lilith, Paimon and Belial. “I’m a witch,” she said. “Luciferianism, the way I perceive it, is centered around the idea of enlightenment and pride … I am quite proud to be a witch. It’s as much of my identity as anything else.” She said she was raised surrounded by texts about witchcraft and mythology, which partially influenced her current beliefs. “My family has odd idiosyncrasies that certainly lend to witchcraft,” she said. “My grandmother worships the plants in her garden, and my mother is something of a nature worshipper as well. She has an earth goddess tattoo all the way down her back.”

However, Clarke’s father is Methodist, which she said “might have fed into the Luciferian aspect” of her beliefs. Despite the disconnect she said she feels from his beliefs, she considers herself a spiritual person and sought out books about Wicca, a new movement in Paganism. When encountering unconventional beliefs or ideas, Clarke suggests keeping an open mind. “Sometimes, it’s alright [sic] to let strange ideas exist without interrogating them, or attacking them, or attempting somehow to disprove them,” she said. McMinimy believes similar ideas, saying exploration of one’s own beliefs and others’ beliefs is important. “Regardless of what your spiritual background is, this time in our lives as college students is such an important time to explore and have these conversations about what we believe and why,” she said. “Religion and spirituality shouldn’t be these topics that are taboo. They should be commonplace here on campus and in this country. We have so much to learn from one another, and this is such a beautiful time in our lives to explore this critical component of ourselves.”

45 | Winter 2018

written by Adrienne Bechtel

hat do you put on your plate at the dining hall? Sure, we know you’re all about the salty french fries, cheesy pizza—and how could you forget the daily desserts? But is a plate of grilled chicken, quinoa and roasted broccoli just as appetizing?

protesting against animal cruelty. Although the term originates from not consuming animal products, being vegan has become a popular and sought-after lifestyle. As reported by the Vegetarian Resource Group, an estimated 2.5 million young adults in the U.S. identify as vegan.

There has been a noticeable shift in the eating habits of our generation. Young adults in the U.S. are paying more attention to what they are putting into their bodies—the ingredients, the amounts of sugar and sodium, whether or not the products are organic and especially the inclusion of gluten. Gluten is a key protein in wheat that is found in many foods commonly seen in modern diets.

So yes, millennials constitute a large proportion of “health nuts,” but looking closer, this change in attitude and lifestyle starts with what people value. And millennials are the majority that embody this change in ideals.

A gluten-free regimen is becoming very popular as more companies have redesigned their products to accommodate this growing consumer population. The boom in gluten-free products occurred only recently when people who don’t necessarily need to be gluten free as a result of a health issue (like Celiac disease, for example) choose to be anyway. Along with cutting gluten out of their diets, many young adults are choosing to become vegan. The term “vegan” typically strikes up the image of an abrasively outspoken person in their 20s eating vegetables and 46 | Winter 2018

Quality is a paragon that has always been of the utmost importance. We want the best, the safest and the nicest products. From the food we eat to the tires we put on our cars, we want the finest. And surprisingly, there is a company that is prestigious in both of these categories. Michelin, the tire manufacturing company, also happens to know quite a bit about good food. As stated on Michelin’s website, the company published a guidebook to promote road-tripping in France in the early 1990s. Then, in 1926, Michelin began to anonymously rate and review restaurants around the world. Yes, a tire company that rates restaurants.

styled by Ben Krautheim and Olivia Mancy model: Gabby Nti photographed by Bel Meals

The Michelin Star recognizes restaurants for having food of high quality with personality, consistency and masterful technique. Michelin explains the star criteria like this:

A good place to stop on your journey, indicating a very good restaurant in its category, offering cuisine prepared to a consistently high standard.

A restaurant worth a detour, indicating excellent cuisine and skillfully and carefully crafted dishes of outstanding quality.

A restaurant worth a special journey, indicating exceptional cuisine where diners eat extremely well, often superbly. Distinctive dishes are precisely executed, using superlative ingredients.

Although Ohio has no Michelin Star-awarded restaurants, New York, Washington DC, Chicago and San Francisco are superb Michelin-certified cuisine hotspots in the United States. Three-star restaurants like Grace in Chicago, Coi in San Francisco and Masa in New York are destination musts, but be prepared for a sad wallet afterwards.

So if pizza and chicken tenders don’t sound appealing every night when there are fabulous meals out there, I don’t blame you. Thankfully, Miami offers a lot of other options. Recently, dining halls around campus have held “Healthy Dinner” nights with different menus. Senior Director of Food and Beverage, Geno Svec, explained that, after meeting with dietitians on campus, the staff chooses more variable menu items in order to mix it up and provide specialized dishes. Freshman Meg Rimer said she likes the healthy dinner nights because “it’s something new to eat. Healthy food makes me feel better than pizza or any fried food would.” As always, each dining hall offers allergen sensitive options like quinoa, fresh veggies, gluten-free pasta and delicious vegan brownies. From food and fashion to technology and politics, millennials have transformed the meanings of quality and value. Our generation is the driving force in reshaping how people communicate and interact, as well as how we identify ourselves and how we choose what we eat. Our generation places value on purpose and intent: why we do what we do. Our shift in eating habits not only makes for a healthier, more informed society, but also redefines the purpose of eating—to be healthy and to feel good. Being more conscious of what we put in our bodies is a crucial component of self-care, which we are learning to reinstate in an era of highly processed food. Eating to feel good versus eating to look good is an important distinction, and one millennials are attaining through quality-based, ever-evolving lifestyles. 47 | Winter 2018

think SPRING!

www.juniperst�le.com 48 | Winter 2018

9 East High St, Oxford 513.523.2022

“juniperst�le”

@UpFashionMag

UpFashionMag@gmail.com

UP Magazine

@UpFashionMag

UpMag

UP Magazine

49 | Winter 2018

Being Timeless in a Trending World 50 | Winter 2018

written by Madysen George

n our social media-driven world, we have all found ourselves competing for approval ratings, whether we want to admit it or not. Every day is a contest to see who can be the most outrageous, the most over the top, the most … Extra. Extra is the toddler throwing a tantrum in the grocery store that forces you to look only to realize the kid is actually pretty cute. Extra is that one friend you invite to every party because they are an absolute blast for the first hour before they quickly become shrill and, in truth, taxing. If it’s true that rudeness is the weak man’s imitation of strength, then in the fashion world, Extra is the imitation of style. It has been said that fashion is something you buy, but style is something you have. Sounds wise enough, but the problem is that these are sobering words in a time of attention-junkies—after all, Kylie Jenner doesn’t rack up millions of likes on Instagram for being “tasteful” or “understated.” Far be it from me to knock someone else’s branding, but it is the humble opinion of this lowly undergraduate student that there has been an undeniable shift in what we wear and how we wear it, a change in purpose: the goal is no longer to be remembered, but rather to be noticed— to make the biggest splash possible, even if its impact is fleeting.

styled by Gigi Zhu and Julia Bozzone makeup by Lilly Sloan models: Leo Jin, Shallyn Hatcher, Colette Frommeyer, and Alex Jimenez photographed by Allison Jenkins

It’s fun to ogle the fake-eyelash perfection and incredible outfits you had only previously seen in cartoons come to life, but what happens when the #goals of the moment fizzle out? Does an oversized sweatshirt with thigh-high boots an icon make? Enter: something immune to the ebb and flow of the Instagram explore page. Enter something … timeless.

51 | Winter 2018

Enter Elegance. Elegance is something harder to define than Extra; it does not ask for your attention, but rather demands it. Elegance doesn’t just catch your eye, it holds it. Elegance is the mother that quietly, yet effectively, calms down the screaming child in the supermarket. She is the one that makes sure your wild friend gets home alright after dancing the night away herself. Is it a lost art? When we think of elegance, do we think stuffy? Prim, proper, poised? Has elegance in our collective, societal mind come to mean just plain boring? In a world of athleisure, anyone who rolls into class with a non-stretch waistband and any semblance of coordination is deemed Extra, over the top. But there was a time when putting yourself together was part of getting ready for the day, regardless of whether the day held class or a nice dinner. You didn’t dress for an occasion, 52 | Winter 2018

you dressed for, well, yourself. This is one possible explanation for what I’m calling The Other Great Schism, in which Elegance broke away and became Extra. Extra is in a brand; Elegance is in the way the person wearing the brand carries themself. But I have pinned the two against one another enough. It is time to talk about how to be both, because while I have made it clear they are not the same, they do not have to be mutually exclusive. Let’s face it: We can all swear by our black pumps and our perfectly-worn jeans, but every now and then you need to indulge in something more. For example, you could liven up your wardrobe without compromising taste by utilizing leopard as a neutral, or sneaking in pops of glitter here and there. All good things come in moderation: play with Extra,

but make it a flavor, not the whole dish. A classic outfit with a beglittered bag, having a go-to fur or a pair of hot pink heels are all flawless ways to channel both your inner-Grace Kelly and Kardashian simultaneously. Call it “Extravagant Chic” and let the good times roll. All of this being said, the purpose of fashion is to express yourself. As a long-time follower of Audrey Hepburn and her contemporaries, I’m partial to the classics and the purpose in their style—the manner by which they not only dressed, but lived. And I guess therein lies the truth: You can be Extra and

be anything you want, but elegance entails grace, kindness and dignity, which are really things you can carry in even the smallest clutch. If you want to rock a particularly “boujee” item or wing your eyeliner so sharp that you could take flight, expect a yas! from me and live your dreams, kid. In this frenzy of likes and retweets, I only ask that in your pursuit of Extra, you don’t lose sight of what’s real. I don’t mean to sound like the ghost of fashion’s past, but there’s something memorable about a person with good posture and a warm smile, and putting all your focus on being Extra has got nothing to do with it.

53 | Winter 2018

Mod•ern Fem•in•ism

A female male Human Movement

styled by Erin Haymaker and Olivia Petas makeup by Erin Haymaker models: Ali Royals and John Dzurec photographed by Kira Salsman

54 | Winter 2018

written by Julia Plant

y favorite game to play growing up was “house," a game very creatively named by a group of six year-olds that mimicked what we believed to be a typical household. Every day, the dad would leave to go to “work,” which meant that whichever boy we had dragged into playing with us got to leave for the monkey bars. While “Dad” was away, girls spent the rest of recess pretending to cook, clean and raise our children. For some reason, that was fun for us. And that’s how the game always went. That’s how we liked it. One afternoon, to our surprise, a boy in our class asked to play with us— but he didn’t want to go to work. He wanted to help us cook and clean and raise the kids. We laughed. And without missing a beat, we told him that’s not what boys do. Before we were even first-graders, my friends and I had been cultured to believe what men and women can and cannot do. This realization is not only disheartening, but also typical today—and these rigid gender roles and constructions needs to go. But how can an entire culture of people learn to create an equal, happy society that would benefit men and women alike? The answer is one word with three syllables, filled with passion for gender equality: feminism. Feminism revolves around the basic belief that men and women should be equal politically, socially,

personally and economically. More simply put, gender should not be a determining factor in these aspects of life. That’s it. So why is it that feminism continues to harbor such a negative connotation, especially from men? Dr. Matthew Jones, a professor of women and gender studies at Miami University, believes this resistance stems from the media portrayal of feminism. “It’s viewed as this movement that hates men and wants to destroy men and is somehow threatening to men,” he said. From a young age, boys are cultured to believe that they should be in charge. It’s ingrained in how we raise them. So when it comes to a movement in which men are not controlling the conversation, they don’t know how to react. They often push back. Feminism focuses on women’s issues—that’s a no-brainer. But we could never solve these issues without our male counterparts. Julia Koenig, co-president of Females Working On Real Democracy (F-WORD) at Miami, discussed the necessity of involving men in the dialogue. “The main issues [of feminism] are in conjunction with men,” she said. “If we want women to be paid more, then their male bosses should pay them more. If we want sexual assaults to stop happening, men need to be educated on what consent is.”

55 | Winter 2018

If men don’t have to be aggressive in order to be accepted, women won’t feel compelled to be submissive.

But the feminist movement hasn’t always focused on including men. “The Seneca Falls Declaration of Sentiments” was written in 1848 by a group of women who felt suppressed by men in society, specifically their husbands. While the document succeeded in drawing attention to the issue as a whole, the dialogue perpetuated men as being the ones to blame. Words such as “against,” “withheld,” “usurped,” and “deprived,” were used to describe the actions of men. This characterized the movement as a fight against men. Not exactly the best way to invite men into the conversation. In more recent years, men have been encouraged back into the conversation. During the second wave of feminism in 1963, Betty Friedan released “The Feminine Mystique,” a book that acknowledged that most women were unhappy with their lives due to their inequality. But Friedan hit the nail on the head when she emphasized that men are not the villains, but they, too are victimized by the strict social stereotypes engraved in our culture. Oftentimes, men feel that they can’t express their emotions. If they’re sad, crying in front of others is an embarrassment. “Culture teaches men that to be kind and sensitive to anyone rather than children or parents means you’re soft or weak,” said Dr. Jones. Feminism often focuses on the oppression of women that we forget that men, too, are succumbed to their own expectations.

56 | Winter 2018

UN Goodwill Ambassador and British actress, Emma Watson, is a huge proponent of the feminist benefits for men. At an event for the HeforShe campaign in New York, she discussed the importance of men’s involvement. “We don’t often talk about men being imprisoned by gender stereotypes, but I can see that they are and that when they are free, things will change for women as a natural consequence,” she said. “If men don’t have to be aggressive in order to be accepted, women won’t feel compelled to be submissive. If men don’t have to control, women won’t have to be controlled.” Men are a part of the answer. If we don’t help men feel free from stereotypes, women will never be able to achieve equality. Feminists want men and women to be viewed and treated equally. So why not find your purpose in fighting for this? In helping to create a society that does not condemn based on gender? In ensuring that your future daughter isn’t scared to speak up in a room full of men, that your future son isn’t disempowered to share how he feels? It starts with us. Don’t be afraid to be a part of the conversation— and to change the dialogue. It’s not a female issue and it’s not a male issue. It’s a human issue, and it starts with you.

57 | Winter 2018

styled by Katrina Kariotis makeup by Erin Haymaker models: Jaiyi Wu and Ouni Mgl photographed by Livvy List 58 | Winter 2018

59 | Winter 2018

60 | Winter 2018

61 | Winter 2018

The Born Again

styled by Tatum Suter and Olivia Mancy model: Celina Nowicki photographed by Kendall Erickson

ART of LUXURY 62 | Winter 2018

written by Kaylee Spahr

ne of the many beautiful things about fashion is its unstoppable change. New trends seem to pop up daily, style icons come and go and popular colors or fabrics constantly vary. For fashionistas, this fast-paced evolution is all part of the fun. However, for luxury fashion houses, this raises an important question: How does one stay relevant in the ever-changing world of style? Recently, there's been a major rebranding movement among many luxury fashion houses. Due to a decline in sales or popularity, brands realize a marketing revamp is key to staying afloat. Rebranding is a delicate process and is often easier said than done. It poses a challenge for creative directors and CEOs of fashion houses as they work to change their brand without losing originality. While rebranding is challenging, it is assuredly possible. For instance, Burberry is known for having one of the best rebrands so far in fashion history. In the early 2000s, the brand became associated with “chav culture,” a negative stereotype of the British working class that sent sales plummeting. The iconic beige check print previously associated with A-listers was now making tabloid headlines for all the wrong reasons. According to The British Broadcasting Company, pubs and clubs across the country banned customers who wore the brand as it even started to be associated with criminals. When Angela Ahrendts took over as CEO of Burberry in 2006, the company was deeply in trouble. Ahrendts, in collaboration with creative director Christopher Bailey, began to tell a new story for Burberry by embracing innovation. At a time when major fashion houses saw over-the-top websites as risky, the two moved Burberry into the digital age. Through the creation of Burberry.com, its social media and its live streaming of fashion shows, digital engagement with customers was at a high. As much as the company worked to modernize, Ahrendts and Bailey also realized how important Burberry’s history was to the brand. They embraced its British history and popularity by using prominent British celebrities to popularize the brand. Over time, the push to modernize Burberry, yet still remain intact with its originality, proved to be successful. This success is often associated with the brand’s executive members determination to start fresh. Burberry worked with negativity in a way that showed innovation. This innovation is something all fashion houses looking to rebrand can take note from.

Recently, some of most well-known houses in fashion such as Saint Laurent, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Coach have taken their shot at rebranding, too. Rebrands don’t always have to be so businessorientated like Burberry's was. We are talking about fashion, here! Gucci made an impressive rebranding decision in 2017 when it decided to become a completely furfree company. This was huge, especially since Gucci has been known for its fur pieces. Additionally, with an average five-figure price tag, these pieces were major money makers. In a press release made by The Humane Society of The United States (HSUS), Marco Bizzarri, Gucci’s president and CEO said, “Being socially responsible is one of Gucci’s core values, and we will continue to strive to do better for the environment and animals. With the help of HSUS, Gucci is excited to take this next step and hopes it will help inspire innovation and raise awareness, changing the luxury fashion industry for the better.” Celebrities like Future and Justin Bieber have been seen all around Hollywood sporting Gucci—not to mention the trope of college students sporting Gucci slides and belts—which goes to show people are on board with this decision. Hedi Slimane, Saint Laurent’s creative director until 2016, is credited with being the power behind the drastic and controversial rebrand of the French fashion house. Slimane turned heads when he decided to change the brand name from “Yves Saint Laurent” to “Saint Laurent Paris.” As the company was originally named after its founder, loyal followers of the brand saw Slimane’s decision to drop “Yves” as a sign of disrespect. However, Slimane’s reasoning was exactly the opposite. He was simply aiming to restore Laurent's original image when he first named the company “Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.” Slimane also made several rebranding movements by adding a more youthful energy to a previously sophisticated and poised fashion house. The fresh vision is what attracted the beloved Harry Styles to the brand. He is now known as one of the brand’s biggest celebrity supporters. Although fashion trends are forever changing, thanks to companies like Burberry, Gucci and Saint Laurent, it's safe to say fashion rebrands will always be in style.

63 | Winter 2018

written by Lauren Klocinski

styled by Sofia Bazianos makeup by Sofia Bazianos model: Lydia Brosnahan photographed by Avery Salomon 64 | Winter 2018

he museum crowd’s sharp, booming voices slowly fade to muffled white noise as you step into Gallery 232. You look around at the dozens of exquisitely dressed mannequins—all displaying more unique and elegant outfits than the one before. A thin band of bright white light stretches above the arch at the end of the strip, illuminating the entire runway. The rest of the room is darkened with only a handful of spotlights shining up from the floor. Everything else falls quiet. Inspiration is flooding through your thoughts. This is the power of fashion. This is Iris van Herpen’s “Transforming Fashion” exhibit at the Cincinnati Art Museum. According to her website, Iris van Herpen began her fashion career studying Fashion Design at ArtEZ Institute of the Arts Arnhem, as well as interning for major designer labels such as Alexander McQueen in London and Claudy Jongstra in Amsterdam. One year after Iris’s graduation in 2006, she launched her label in Arnhem, the Netherlands—and it wasn’t

long before she was dressing major pop celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Taylor Swift, Björk and Beyoncé. It’s only fitting that an exceptional human creates exceptional outfits. These garments are much more than your typical lace, ruffle and satin dresses— these are exotic, soul-evoking pieces. My particular favorite gives the illusion of water splashing off the model like a crashing ocean wave; one is made entirely of intricate paper mâché design and another expels metal spikes that fly every which way. Her source of inspiration is definitely alive and definitely anything but ordinary. Iris’s ingenuity spawns from tactics unheard of in the fashion world: laser cutting, ultrasonic welding and magnetizing fibers. Her website says that in 2010, she was one of the first

fashion designers to create a 3D-printed dress. She’s even been trying to get her hands on the invisibility cloaking fabric that is currently only accessible by the U.S. military. Iris wasn’t always so open to exploring different phenomenons, though. In fact, it is said that she started off like many fashion designers—controlling and narrow-minded. She wanted to create each piece herself, feeling that she was the only one who understood its path and purpose. In time, however, she began collaborating with others, slowly but surely being influenced by the work and intricacy of other inventors in different fields besides her own. At this point in her career, Iris is eager to collaborate and freely recognizes the insight of others. She likes the idea of interns leaving their own mark. These days, it is unusual for an artist to be so willing to share opinions and ideas, especially coming from a perspective of complete opposition—and that’s only a sliver of what makes Iris so unique.

I got the chance to speak with fashion expert Cynthia Amnéus, Chief Curator and Curator of Fashion Arts and Textiles for the Cincinnati Art Museum. When asked about her favorite piece within the exhibit, she answered the Capriole dress without hesitation. “It’s an amazing feat of geometry,” she gushes. “Acrylic sheets are a difficult material to work with—sharp edges, slippery—and Iris somehow manages to sew them together using such exacting skill.” Fun fact: This dress, along with four others, are all inspired by Iris’s love of skydiving: shocking and vivid as can be. Although this dazzling exhibit finished its run at the Cincinnati Art Museum on Jan. 7, 2018, you can always check out Iris van Herpen’s unbelievable combination of fashion, technology, science and architecture on her website.

65 | Winter 2018

pur·pose \pərpəs/ (noun) the reason for which something is done or created or for which something exists; a person’s sense of resolve or determination; to have as one’s intention or objective.

66 | Winter 2018

67 | Winter 2018