Upshift 11 July 2017

July, 2017

Issue 11

EXPERIENCE PURE OFFROAD ADVENTURE -

Blast off on brag-worthy excursions with the new KTM 1090 ADVENTURE R! When the pavement turns to dirt, kick it up a gear and attack whatever challenges lie ahead.

From corner-riddled mountain roads to knee-deep sand washes, if you can picture it, this savage can overcome it!

/ktmusa

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations!

The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

Photo: M. Chytka

www.kiska.com

@RideDunlop DunlopMotorcycleTires.com ©2017 Dunlop Motorcycle Tires.

TRAILSMART

ISSUE 11 July 2017

OGO SHEET July, 2017

Issue 11

Cover Olivier de Vaulx Art Director Chris Glaspell Photography Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Olivier de Vaulx Justin Dawes Seiji Ishii Contributing Photographers Tim Burke Olivier de Vaulx Tolga Basol Kadir Asnaz Shane Zacher

THE INSIDER BLACK

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RGB: R255 B255 G2550

RGB: R255 B80

CMYK: C40 M30 Y30 K100

CMYK: N80 Y100

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Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

Join us on Instagram at @upshift_online

GEAR

THE LATEST STUFF

Want to contribute to Upshift?

If you’re an experienced writer or photographer with great editorial instincts who loves finding interesting and unusual photo-related content, we want to hear from you.

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INSTA-ADV INSTAGRAM TRAVELERS

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JUST ONE BIKE

COSTA RICA

FREEDOM TO RIDE

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RIDE MUST GO ON TOLGA BASOL - GUATEMALA

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TESTED

GIANT LOOP GREAT BASIN SADDLEBAG ROTTWEILER PERFORMANCE TAIL TIDY

23986 Aliso Creek Road P.O. Box 450 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677

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Upshift Magazine is published monthly

by Upshift Online Inc. 2017. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

Now go and find some adventure.

OREGON

HIGH DESERT ADVENTURES

JUST ONE BIKE INSIDER: JUSTIN DAWES Dual sporting is making a comeback in a big way. Sure there has always been the core group of riders that have always seen and reaped the benefits of unrestricted possibilities, but it never was an option or of interest for most off-road riders. In recent years we are seeing that change. More and more riders are enjoying dual sports not only for riding long distances and camping but also for hardcore day-rides on nasty single track.

Even dual sport rallies and events have added harder, expert-level options.

Back in the nineties and early two thousands dual sports were softer versions of trail bikes. They looked the part of trail shredders, but one ride told a different story. Mellow power outputs and squishy suspension were combined with low-spec components making for uninspiring rides for those looking for performance.

Yes, you could get out there and see the sights. If you wanted to haul some ass, however, you needed to do some serious upgrading or convert a motocross bike.

Neither of which made it easy for the masses.

Now with the current crop of KTM EXC-F’s, Husqvarna FE’s and Beta RR-S models, performance and capability is 95 percent of the full-on competition models. It is truly possible to have one dirt bike in the garage to do it all. I’ve personally ridden my 2017 KTM 450 EXC-F SIX DAYS on the motocross track, on single track and to the grocery store all in the same weekend. Why buy an enduro machine when for a few more bucks a month you can have a license plate as well? It’s for this reason and tightening emission regulations that KTM and Husky dropped the 4-stroke enduro models in their line and now only produce street-legal 4-stroke enduros. Is it possible that in the future even motocross bikes will be street-legal? I wouldn’t rule it out.

EXPLORE. ENJOY.

GRAVEL-T RANGE Gravel T is a line a 100% waterproof bags, made for off-road journeys and specifically suited to light motorcycles such as Enduro and Supermoto.

The collection has been developed to meet the requirements of off-road travel.

• Made from 100% waterproof material • Main body incorporating high frequency welding • Super light and resistant technical materials • Reflective inserts • Universal fixing system using straps

Find more than 900 accessories at giviusa.com Discover giviexplorer.com the web portal for motorcyclists

INSTA-ADV

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

Upshift, July

1. NiteRider Pro ADV 3600 Light Set NiteRider – the consensus go-to source for bicycle lighting systems has entered the powersports category with the ADV 3600 Set – a rugged, powerful, lightweight auxiliary lighting system for adventure bikes.

An ADV-specific product with second-to-none engineering, the ADV 3600 Set comprises a pair of dual-beam CREE™ LED units that emit a combined 7200 lumens, resulting in a massive enhancement in visibility, greatly improving the ride experience on the highway or trail. Venting and cooling fins are incorporated into the heads, and multiple light levels are possible, including high and low beams and a daylight safety flash. Installation is straightforward, with black hard-anodized, machined-aluminum mounts and three plastic shims of varying thicknesses, and the lamps can be aimed in any direction. NiteRider also offers a version with a 1-inch ball for RAM mounting. Each package includes a well-thought-out wiring harness with handlebar-mounted remote switch and gold-plated, military-spec connectors. All cables feature high-quality rubber jackets that remain flexible even in very cold conditions.

While NiteRider may be an unfamiliar brand to some ADV enthusiasts, the brand has earned a stellar reputation for its high-quality auxiliary bicycle lighting, and their new offerings for adventure bikes maintain this no-compromises approach, with U.S. construction and painstaking attention to detail.

This actually marks a return to powersports for NiteRider, whose HID and halogen products were prominently featured in the 2005 Baja 1000 film Dust to Glory before the company focused on its core market during the economic downturn. In the meantime, NiteRider was a pioneer in adapting LED technology to portable-lighting applications. In addition to bicycle and motorcycle lighting, the company offers products for ATVs, off-road automobiles, outdoor use and industrial purposes. MSRP: $599.99.

For more info, visit www.niterider.com

2. Sidi X-3 SRS Boot The new X-3 is Sidi’s most cost effective way to experience professional level boots, and now it is available with a sole that you can replace at home!

Made with the same laminated Technomicro, it features the same cam lock buckles, Cambrelle® inner lining, heel and insole, and the revolutionary sole replacement system as the higher end boots.

MSRP: $395.00 For more info, visit www.motonation.com

• Laminated Technomicro is used as the base material.

• Sole replacement system can be replaced with a flathead screwdriver.

• Nylon insole no dangerous steel shank!

• Removable arch support.

• Inner heat shield.

• Internal malleolus plastic guard with ergonomic closed cell foam padding internally to enhance protection of those tender small foot bones.

• Toe area covered in protective plastic.

• Rigid, shock resistant, anatomically shaped heel for maximum protection.

• Replaceable micro adjustable cam lock buckle system with memory straps.

• Lower buckle protected against opening because of an impact by a guard.

• Cambrelle lining.

• All bolt-on parts are replaceable.

• Slim, cool non-bootie design.

• Single Flex System upper. ®

3. S410 Monokey Trolley Base Designed to conveniently turn any GIVI Monokey top box into a trolley. On the top side the S410 is exactly as any Monokey mounting plate, so it accepts any top case and flat side case from the Monokey series. On the flip side the S410 replicates the bottom of any Monokey case, meaning that the trolley can be attached to any existing Monokey mounting plate on any motorcycle or scooter.

If the motorcycle has the GIVI optional brake light kit installed, it will not be a problem thanks to the slot featured on the bottom of the S410, that will fit exactly around and over the half of the contact switch, already mounted on the receiving plate. The extendible aluminum handle is light and rugged, and the rubberized grip is designed for extra comfort. It also includes the release button. The wheels are mounted on bearings and are designed to offer the best performance on a variety of surfaces. Thanks to 6 built in strap loops, the trolley can also be used to carry soft bags or small packages. There is a worldwide patent pending on the S410. MSRP: $159.00. For more info, visit www.giviusa.com

4. Ice Hi-Performance Coolant Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is biodegradable, phosphate free & non-toxic; typically reducing operating race temperatures and effectively keeping boil over temperatures to 256°F or less and freeze-up protection to -26° F. “Right out of the bottle” Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is ready to provide you with dependable horsepower and is proven to reduce operating temperatures. The key to horsepower is not losing it! Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is engineered to keep your operating temperatures at optimum performance to not lose power through excess heat.

Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant will provide you with reliable power and reduced operating temperatures regardless of the terrain you tackle. Factory or privateer, highly modified or stock, all machines benefit from using Engine Ice. Available in both 1/2 gallon and 5-gallon containers from your favorite powersports dealer. MSRP: $21.95 for 1/2 Gallon, $188.95 for 5 Gallons.

Learn more at www.engineice.com

The next-gen 2017 Suzuki V-Strom 650XT. It’s not about the destination.

It’s about the state-of-the-art electronics package, including highly advanced 3-mode traction control that lets you adjust to any riding surface imaginable. It’s ABS, giving you peace of mind in all conditions.

It’s the genius Low RPM Assist for smooth launches and enhanced low-speed riding. It’s Suzuki’s Easy Start System that enables simple, one-touch starts. It’s the unmistakable feeling that only a V-twin engine can deliver, whether you’re crossing town or the entire continent. And it’s knowing that you didn’t have to break the bank to break free. Because the value of a journey isn’t measured in miles.

It’s measured in experiences.

Traction Control cannot prevent loss of traction due to excessive speed when the rider enters a turn and/or applies the brakes. Neither can it prevent the front wheel from losing grip. ABS is not designed to shorten the braking distance. Please always ride at a safe speed for road and weather conditions, including while cornering. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2017 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.

Four V-Strom models. Infinite journeys.

See the full lineup at SuzukiCycles.com

Wide Open

Grossglockner Pass, Austria

Photo: Tim Burke

2017

Wide Open

Costa Rica

Photo: Olivier de Vaulx

2017

Wide Open

Pacaya Volcano, Guatemala

Photo: Tolga Basol

2017

Wide Open

Troyan Pass, Bulgaria

Photo: Tim Burke

2017

A Gore-Tex boot with enhanced breathability.

NEW!

ARIA GORETEX $250

SecondtoNone Only Sidi boots purchased from an authorized Sidi-Motonation dealer are covered by our product warranty.

www.motonation.com

Toll Free 877.789.4940

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY: OLIVIER DE VAULX

Freedom to Ride!

Famous destination among American tourists, Costa Rica made its reputation around the kindness of its inhabitants, its safety and of course the eye dropping landscapes. More riders from all around the world are coming here to enjoy the endless ride, with no restriction on technical trails in the middle of the humid jungle! If you ever wanted to experience the total freedom of riding, this is the place to go!

When people from the US motorcycle industry start telling you that they went to Costa Rica to enjoy a few days of riding, it raises some questions: There are a lot of trails here in the US, so why bother to take a plane and go so far away just to ride? Is it just to find a place where you can ride with little or no regulations? Is it just because of the landscape or the exotic name of this Central American country? There’s obviously more than that, and Chris Kilbride knows it better than anybody else. Living in Costa Rica for 15 years now, the California rider was one of the first Americans to ride here. In this country with no army but with a really good educational system, there’s no social tension and the safety is real. Chris loved the place, but not only for the perfect surf break. He built from scratch a dream house on the hills, giving his company, Costa Rica Unlimited, a place to start hosting guests. “Our customers are coming from all around the world,” explains Chris. “Some are saving for years before coming, others can afford ten trips a year. Either way, we treat them all the same” he adds with a big smile! With the rainy season starting in May, there are fewer riders and the plane tickets are less expensive. What if that was the perfect combination to come and try this adventure by yourself?

Starting the adventure The international flight between LAX and San Jose, Costa Rica is a night flight. Barely awake, the travelers pass through customs and load their rentals cars. For our group, it will be a 4x4 because even though the road between San Jose and Playa Hermosa is a highway, the last mile to reach Costa Rica Unlimited is challenging.

The climb was so steep that we needed to shut off the A/C, stay in first gear, and rev the engine in the red zone the whole time! We hadn’t ridden yet, and already we had some sensations. The electric gate opened and we entered a little paradise. Three houses made of stone and wood with an unlimited view of the jungle and the sea, teak floors where we could walk barefoot, terrace with hammocks… we were in a five star accommodation! We could have stayed here for the rest of the day, enjoying the view and listening to exotic birds singing in the sun, but there was no time for a nap.

Chris and his associate Carlos have everything ready for the first ride. In the shop, helmets, boots and root protectors are waiting for tourists who would like to enjoy a day of riding during their family vacations in the country.

Almost brand new bikes are aligned like in a show room. There are a few 450s, and most of them are 250s, including some very nice KTM 6 days Edition. One push on the start button and the engine awakes, with a pretty decent amount of decibels. It sounds like noise is not a real concern here. “When they hear us, kids are coming out of the houses and ask us to do wheelies,” explains Chris. If it’s for the kids, well then, why not make noise?

Looking for traction Right after the gate we entered the trails. It was a large fire road, which brought us on the edge of the hill. It was hard to ride and take in the amazing scenery at the same time!

But, we’re all racers at heart and we opened up the throttle. Sliding in corners, the shoulders above the front fender like racers in the Baja 1000, we went crazy fast and soon everyone thought they were an enduro world champion.

The first downhill was a reality check; steep enough to look like an Olympic skiing hill, the path was full of deep ruts and the dirt was still wet from the night rain. Trying to keep a steady, low speed without touching the brakes was challenging. It was so slippery that the sole idea of grabbing the brake lever seemed enough to make us fall down! Using the engine brake, sweating and feeling our legs and arms burning, we finally reached a small restaurant lost in the middle of the jungle. Magic of this country: fresh fruit juice appeared and all the fear disappeared. The rest of the day would look the same. Discovering the backcountry while keeping the traction, especially in steep climbs where the rear wheel was spinning like it was on ice. After a while, we realized that it was just easier to hit the berm on the side to find traction below the dead wet leaves than to stay in the middle of the trail. Now we rode like motocross guys, full gas and with a big smile under our helmet. Again, the country would make us feel like fools. Indeed, mothers riding antic street bikes, wearing only flip-flops and carrying propane tanks in one hand, were riding the exact same trails. They had no helmet, they had no problem with the slippery dirt, and they smiled at us as if we were innocent toddlers. Riding a $10k bike with nice gears makes you often feel like a king. But here, you just feel humble.

Playing in the water The next day, the schedule was different. We headed for the beach, where the tide revealed a flat and endless playground. While some were surfing the shore break, we drew circles on the sand, falling down to try again and again, laughing like kids. We then tried to see how fast we could go, our nose behind the bar, the speedometer showing illegal highway speeds. It was then time for us to go back in the jungle and try to cross the Amazon, or at least a river quite as big. Chris showed us where to cross, and it looked so easy that no one wanted to wait.

But when we reached the middle of the river, the current was suddenly pushing the bikes away from the safe line.

We then needed to be full power, in first gear, just to go against the current and to reach the shore. It was scary, but, of course, everybody did it many times. After eating some fresh fish in a small restaurant, we ended up in front of a waterfall. It was too late to swim, but never too late to splash with friends!

Green hell The last day, Carlos was our guide for some extreme riding.

In the jungle, the sun was nowhere to be found; It was as dark as night. The single track was narrow, slippery as hell, and with all the rocks, vines and ruts, there were enough traps to make us fall down 10 times. Crossing little rivers was easy, except that we needed to thread our way between the trees, descending in dark holes with no visibility, climbing step embankments with no speed at all. Of course, Carlos was aware that it was difficult and always asked if we wanted to split the group. But everybody loved the challenge, and we were just catching our breath when we got back on the fire roads to reach another spot. It is not a riding school here, but you definitely learn how to ride!

Easy life Going back to the house was like reaching heaven. Polo, the mechanic, cleaned and checked the bikes for us, while Anita cleaned all of our gear before drying them up. We only had to take care of ourselves, which was just so different from riding at home! After the shower, everybody met on the terrace to drink a beer and enjoy the view. The bulbs on the roof gave the ambiance some romantic touch. There was no sound, and we found ourselves smiling, forgetting that our muscles were sore from the long ride. A lot of riders would end up in town to eat in some restaurant or dance in a nightclub, but we enjoyed having a barbecue with Chris and his wife Mièle. And guess what we talked about up to the end of the night?

Surf, travels, but mostly bikes and rides. That’s the core of life, right? After a few hours of sleep, it was time to go back to the airport. Only one thing was certain: We would be back!

How to travel to Costa Rica Traveling in Central America might sound challenging but Costa Rica is a really safe place. There is no need for a visa, and the flights are not expensive. Summertime in the US is the rainy season here, so if you prefer to ride on dry dirt, plan to come in the winter. It might be less fun and more crowded though! Once arriving in San Jose airport, renting a car is easy, but be aware that the speed limits are in km/h and not in mph.

You can use Google Maps or Waze on your smartphone for directions, as these two apps can work without using any data. Once you’re in Costa Rica Unlimited, everything is easy. If you’re here with your family and just want to ride one day, it’s possible. The tour starts from the house, in easy or technical trails, but Chris can also put the bikes in a trailer and show you the volcano or bring you to motocross tracks. If you want full accommodations, dirt bike renting, bike cleaning, gear cleaning, lunch and guide, it will cost you $1950 for four days, three nights and three full riding days. This price includes a complementary activity like zip line, massage or crocodile sightseeing. Your rental 4x4 lets you visit the nearby cities of Playa Hermosa (3 miles) and San Jose (10 miles). Last but not least, your family can enjoy the beach while you’re riding in the woods. Are you ready to go? You can contact Chris via his website www.costaricaunlimited.com or by phone: 714-368-0656.

Special thanks: To Eric Peronnard who convinced us to ride in Costa Rica. Terry Beal, from Push Agency, who helped us set up the trip. Chris, Mièle, Carlos, Sean, Polo and Anita for their kindness. Fabrice and François who agreed to do everything the photographer asked them to do!

GUATEMALA Photos: Tolga Basol - Kadir Asnaz - Shane Zacher

My second RTW journey started with some unfortunate events. While we were riding through the small towns of Copper Canyon in Mexico, my DSLR camera stopped working. After spending some time around the cartel-controlled towns of the area, we continued to head south to Xilitla to visit the surrealist jungle park of Las Pozas. After visiting Las Pozas we made our way to La Trinidad to see Hoya de La Luz, one of the most magnificent sinkholes known to man, where Shane promptly lost our new drone as well as the footage it carried, leaving us with only a point and shoot camera.

With the loss of virtually all of our photo/video equipment, we decided it would be best to beeline to Antigua, Guatemala to have new equipment shipped to us as well as reunite with old friends that we met there two and a half years ago. We made good time to the border with a short stop in Mexico City as well as the mandatory stop in Oaxaca to stock up on some of the most incredible mescals available. Mescal is quite possibly one of the finest liquors I’ve ever had the pleasure of drinking. Despite the fact that we lacked the space, we managed to make room for quite a few bottles under the rationalization that, should either of us get into some sort of horrific accident, we can always use the mescal as a disinfectant. After this we made our way to the border of Tapachula, Mexico to cross into Guatemala, which went by without any problems besides the usual disarray found at all borders in Central America. Well, for me at least. Shane’s Africa Twin was not allowed into Guatemala due to the fact that he had left his other motorcycle in Guatemala two years prior. So, after two weeks of nonsense (finding a buyer for his old bike, bus ride to and from the border, sleeping on his tail bag on the sidewalk at the border, trying to bring his AT into Guatemala only to find they have a 90 day restriction, finally getting into the border after paying $200usd to have them ‘overlook’ the 90 day rule and other generally not fun stuff) we finally both managed to make it to Antigua just in time for Semana Santa, Holy Week.

In all of Central America Semana Santa is one of the largest celebrations of the year, and in Antigua, it is by far the largest. Every day of the week people design and build elaborate murals (made from miscellaneous items such as seeds, fruit, twigs, straw) up and down the cobblestone streets only to have a processional of hundreds of people dressed up in matching garb walk over them followed by a large religious float being carried by hundreds of people all shuffling simultaneously, and all working together to carry it to their destination. Watching it for the first time was quite the spectacle- truly an experience. However, after watching it every day for seven days and having to deal with the crowds and noise and the smell of incense, you begin to realize why the locals leave Antigua for the week rather than stay.

During this time I worked on developing new graphics for my 701, something I had been meaning to do while working on the bike at Rottweilers garage in California but just didn’t have the time to do. Since I was waiting for Shane to clear aduana into the country I also had time to get my bike checked at Husqvarna Guatemala.

With nothing else to do while waiting on new photo/video tools I met up with my old friend Jose Pinto from Azimut Moto travel and training. I had met Jose a few years back while riding my 1190 through Guatemala.

Jose is one of those few incredible riders that you meet while traveling around the world. He rides his GS1200 with such ease and nimbleness you’d think he was on a 250. After a few drinks we agreed to take a few days to tour Guatemala. With Jose being a certified instructor it was a great time to take a refresher course. It was also critical because Shane had taken a couple of nasty spills on his Africa Twin in Mexico and needed guidance to help rebuild his confidence. I have great respect for Jose; Not only did he bring us on an incredible back road journey of Guatemala, he also did it all on a GS1200 with street tires.

The first leg of the journey took us around Volcan Acatenango. Jose took us on some amazing back roads filled with river crossings and chunky dirt track.

Along the way Shane took a big hit on his AT during a river crossing that could very easily have taken out his radiator.

Luckily his crash bars from Outback Motortek took the hit instead leaving him with nothing but a bruised ego and a dented crash bar. It could have been much worse. We rode up to Lake Atitlan and then back down to stay in Antigua for the night.

The next day, Shane, Jose, a close friend of mine named Kadir from Turkey (who is a photographer as well as a rider) and I embarked on our trip North to Semuc Champey by way of back roads: Jose on his GS1200 (with street tires), Shane and I on our Africa Twin and 701, and Kadir on a WR250 that we rented from MotoTours Guatemala in Antigua. The day started out pleasant enough with the roads being in perfect condition: nice dirt with some technical spots to keep you on your toes. Perfect day. Perfect sun. Perfect roads. It couldn’t get any

Tolga’s Guatemala to Coban route via better. However, once we got close to Salama we were in for a surprise: turns out the bridge crossing the River Motagua was swept away by the torrential rains not uncommon to Guatemala. So we had two options: ride the river or hitch a ride on the raft that an entrepreneurial local just so happened to have at the river bank. We decided to try our luck crossing the river with Kadir going first on the 250.

The ride across the river (about 125 yards wide) was not a ‘straight across’ attempt. With the bridge having been out for quite some time the locals had spray painted some of the rocks yellow making a road of sorts. The ‘road’ brought us part way across the river only to have us go against the current to make it to the other side; all said and done about 500 yards or so. Kadir goes first with the 250. We watch him struggle against the current hitting numerous rocks along the way, hidden from sight in the brown muddy water. After seeing him struggle we decide that it may be in our best interest to go back up the river a bit and take the raft. No one wants to drop a bike in a river. We got back to the raft (which was really just an 8’x8’ piece of plywood with four inner tubes under it) and laid down Jose’s 1200 on the raft only to quickly realize that the raft was slowly sinking and wouldn’t make it across the river. Back to Plan A. We dropped our panniers on the raft and rode across the river, without first walking it, as there really wasn’t any point with the crossing being so long and we had the yellow painted rocks to guide us. The current was a bit aggressive and the bottom was filled with slippery rocks that couldn’t be seen due to the zero water clarity. I made it across fine, as did Jose. Shane had some troubles but also made it across and no one dropped their bike. It was a rewarding experience that left us drained and exhausted.

Luckily there was a tienda on the other side of the river so we stopped and rehydrated with water and cokes.

We stayed in a cheap hostel in Coban for the night and early in the morning we filled our tanks and kept riding through the back roads to reach Lanquin. As we rode through the villages of Guatemala, once again we could see the real countryside, which is quite different than the touristy streets of Antigua. Small farms in the middle of nowhere, amongst natural beauty hardly touched by the human hand. The riding included all types of terrain with nice twisty tracks along the rivers or up to the mountains. It was so hot that we were stopping for anything cold to drink while getting closer to Lanquin.

Tolga’s Coban to Semuc Champey route

We made it to Lanquin before dark and enjoyed a couple of drinks and ate at one of the hostels in town. We rode back to Antigua the next day and decided to ride to Volcan Pacaya before we left Guatemala. Jose had taken me there on my previous visit and riding on the border of an active volcano was a blast. We got to the Volcano in about two hours by avoiding pavement as much as possible. Once there, we started practicing bike control and our sliding skills with Jose. The loose volcanic sand was difficult to ride but the experience itself was one I’ll never forget. The bikes were dumped many times but we kept riding until the fog came and covered the landscape leaving us feeling like we were riding on Mars.

Giant Loop Great Basin Saddlebag Roll Top

TESTED

PHOTOS: SIMON CUDBY WORDS: Seiji Ishii

Giant Loop pioneered the horseshoe-shaped saddlebag in 2008, aimed squarely at the adventure and dual sport devotee, refining the design constantly. The advantages of the “biomorphic” horseshoe shape touted in 2008 still hold true today, the 2017 Great Basin Saddlebag Roll Top representing their largest capacity (68L) saddlebag of this design.

The saddlebag sits on the passenger position of the seat, placing the extra load where the bike’s engineers intended. The additional gear weight is carried low in the bag’s “legs” and is centralized, not hanging off the back like many rack-mounted bags, minimizing negative effects on suspension and handling. The soft luggage system doesn’t require a hard-mounted rack, thereby saving weight, width, complexity and leaving the bike bare when not in use. The soft baggage system is presumably safer than hard bags with no unforgiving components to crush limbs, and more pliant if clipped on obstacles. The bag can fit any bike capable of carrying a passenger, only requiring the passenger area of the seat and corresponding foot peg brackets.

The Giant Loop Great Basin Saddlebag seems built and engineered for the most extreme conditions. The water-resistant exterior is a heavy vinyl tarp material (available in yellow, white, orange, gray and black) with ballistic nylon reinforcements and reflective accents. The dry bag style main roll top closure completely seals out both water and dust. Add to this the three included RF welded Saddlebag Dry Pods, and gear is doubly protected from the elements. These Dry Pods are custom shaped to most efficiently fill the interior volume of the Great Basin, have one-way air purge valves to aid compression, and also close with the roll top feature. These liners are completely waterproof; I have used them to haul water from source to campsite.

The Great Basin Saddlebag quickly mounts to the bike with only webbing and buckles. There are three points of attachment at the rear bottom of the bag that work well with rear racks (Giant Loop recommends using at least one, but attaching all three has never been a problem) and one point of attachment at the bottom of each leg for the passenger foot peg bracket. All these points can be placed under high tension, sitting the horseshoe saddlebag vertically in the pas-

Giant Loop Great Basin Saddlebag Roll Top senger position, the bottom contouring the seat and bike well.

The main opening seals with a hook and loop before rolling closed and is secured on each side with buckled straps. The entire bag is compressed from the top by a “beavertail” and cinch ring flap secured by three buckled straps. The closure/ compression system is completely separate from the mounting system. Giant Loop includes a laser cut aluminum exhaust heat shield with stainless steel clamp if there is a need.

The horseshoe shape and inner Dry Pods require careful packing. Evenly distributing weight between the two legs and making certain items fit the interior shapes demands some thought be applied initially. The air purge valves on the Dry Pods work great, helping maximally fill each bag, then compressing them to minimal size. The main bag’s roll top also compresses the load and is much easier to close than fighting a zipper around curves of a stuffed bag. The final compressing elements are the top beavertail flap and side compression straps on each leg, which further compact the contents into a tight and stable package.

No amount of aggressive riding on the roughest surfaces upset the bag or contents. All of the strap tension and load compression literally weld the load to the bike. I cannot foresee any water or dust getting anywhere near the contents of the Dry Pods, even if the bike were submerged (there are drain holes in the main bag should that ever happen). The Great Basin works best at simply transporting gear to the next destination, as accessing items needed while on route isn’t convenient; there are several locations on the bag to secure other Giant Loop products that would be better suited for this purpose. The passenger seat location of the bag also demands a certain way of getting on and off the bike, as swinging the leg just high enough to clear the rear of the seat will not suffice. The bag also may interfere with more aggressive body English, especially with taller riders.

The Giant Loop Great Basin Saddlebag Roll Top has proven to be a fully dependable means of securely hauling gear during even the most adventurous outings. The materials, design and functionality provide confidence that vital gear will arrive undamaged, no matter the conditions, successfully fulfilling the company’s mantra: “go light, go fast, go far.”

MSRP: $450.00 www.giantloopmoto.com

Rottweiler Performance KTM Ad 950/990 Tail Tidy

By Seiji Ishii

The back end of a KTM Adventure 950/990 looks like a complete afterthought. Huge bulbous plastic hangs off what would be a clean tail section, turn signals ready to be torn off in the slightest get off, and the low hanging fender ready to be sucked into the rear knobby during aggressive maneuvers. It almost seems like a generic tail section was hastily bolted on to the bike just to meet minimum legal standards. Definitely an eyesore on one of the most dirt-worthy adventure bikes ever produced and that has garnered cult status.

Luckily, Rottweiler Performance recognizes this fault and has created a solution that includes equal parts of engineering and modern design. Constructed by hand in the USA, the Rottweiler Performance Tail Tidy diminishes the overall dimensions of the rear fender to a fraction of the original and cleans up the look by an immeasurable margin. Using existing mounting points, the Tail Tidy integrates the rear fender, license plate frame, plate light, running light, brake light and turn signals into a compact, rugged and stylish package. The license plate frame houses all of the LED lights, everything potted in resin for durability. All wiring has the correct connectors for true plug and play installation. The license plate frame assembly is attached to a robust aluminum mounting plate, the dimensions matching the lines of the rear section of the bike for a clean and cohesive look, nothing superfluous or protruding. The entire assembly is powder coated with a black textured finish.

Installation takes about 30 minutes. Removing the OEM rear assembly is eye opening, the enormity of the tail section astounding when isolated by itself. All hardware used with the Tail Tidy is of high quality and the dimensions are spot on; nothing has to be forced to fit. The most time consuming and challenging part of the installation is grinding notches into the edges of the license plate to allow safe amount of lost mass, both actual and visual, is impressive.

TESTED

passage of wiring, but very detailed instructions are included for this procedure. Once installed, the

The Rottweiler Performance Tail Tidy on my 990 has experienced extreme conditions that I consider

near the limit of what an adventure bike can do. It has bombed down rocky trails fully loaded, suspen-

sion bottoming often, but remained tight and unscathed. Nothing rubs, squeaks or rattles regardless of the terrain encountered. Endless dusty roads and multiple excursions in rain and mud were unable

to affect LED functions. The LEDs are extremely bright; due to their lower current draw than incandescent bulbs, the blink rate becomes quicker, but I found that desirable, as it makes them more

noticeable in my opinion. The Tail Tidy does have mounting points to mount stock type or OEM turn signals should your area require a minimum distance between them. The rear fender no longer ex-

tends lower than the license plate frame, a consideration for those riding directly behind you. There is nothing to get sucked into the rear tire, which was a frequent occurrence with the OEM rear fender.

Most aftermarket products that find their way on to my personal adventure bike are chosen strictly

based on improving function and performance. The Rottweiler Performance Tail Tidy is the rare addition that addresses those attributes while improving the look of the bike by a vast amount. Engineering can meet modern design at the back of your KTM Adventure 950/990. MSRP: $239.00 www.rottweilerperformance.com

dventure

High Desert Adventures

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

PHOTOS: SIMON CUDBY

WORDS: SEIJI ISHII

High Desert Adventures

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

Avid dual sport and adventure riders almost unanimously

A brief perusal of Oregon’s statistics points it to belonging in

claim Baja California and Colorado as the top choices on

the cadre of top riding areas in the USA. The Pacific North-

a short list of first-class destinations. Vast desert terrain and

west is known for its forests and Oregon boasts 11 National

jagged mountains, along with their lavish views, firmly plant

Forests containing more miles of National Forest roads than

these areas as vacation worthy to hard working explorers.

any other state, by a huge margin, enabling access to the

But, what about Oregon? Even the well-traveled nary mention

deep woods that house more timber than any other state.

the ninth largest state as a premier destination.

Add to this the 15.7 million acres of BLM land in Oregon ad-

ministered by the BLM. Central Oregon resides in the Cascade

features and diverse riding surfaces. Fifty of these volcanoes

Volcanic Chain which reaches from Larsen Peak, CA north

lie in the vicinity of Portland alone. Also of consideration is the

to Meager Mountain, B.C, Canada. This impressive array

temperate semi-arid climate of the Pacific Northwest, and this

of 3000 volcanoes has produced geology and geography

alone was plenty of reason for Simon Cudby and me to board

that is truly unique, allowing high desert terrain to transition

planes, escaping the oppressive heat of Southern California

quickly to mountains, with incredibly varying compositions of

and Texas to join High Desert Adventures on their three day,

sand, rock, and dirt. Volcanic activity has left behind distinct

“Wild West Desert Tour.�

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

High Desert Adventures

High Desert Adventures

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

High Desert Adventures (HDA) is a backcountry tour company

help him with one of High Desert Adventures’ first Wild West

based out of Prineville, OR nestled within spitting distance of

Tours; the duo became business partners in 2013. The compa-

both USFS and BLM lands open to OHV use. Ace Nilson is

ny has expanded its offerings to include several different tours

the man in charge, sporting a multifaceted riding history that

in Central Oregon and Baja California. HDA is the only tour

began when he was twelve aboard an RM80 in the Southern

company to obtain a special use permit in the state of Oregon,

California desert and includes racing in the Baja 1000. Ace

working with the Forest Service to get their routes approved,

also raced motocross where he met Greg Munn, who started

and all outings are AMA chartered.

High Desert Adventures in 2007 after becoming enamored with adventure-based riding by navigating the Oregon Backcountry Discovery Route. His enthusiasm relentless, creating a need to share the experiences with others, Greg asked Ace to

Simon and I landed at the Redmond airport and Jimmy Lee, another HDA co-owner/guide, was at the ready to transport us to Prineville, a 30-minute drive away. Jimmy’s excitement to get the tour rolling was palpable and carried over to dinner

where we met the rest of the tour group. This eclectic collection

throughout the tour, as well as communication with the chase

of six Southern California professionals had been planning this

truck driver. The chase truck and trailer ferried all gear to the

adventure for almost a year, generously allowing the Upshift

next location and acted as a well-equipped bike service cen-

Online crew to invade their private party. This group had a lot

ter and gas stop. Ace and Jimmy would swap responsibilities

of experience on dirt, creating anticipation as the overall skill

day to day as lead guide and chase truck driver. Simon and

level promised fast riding across the more challenging terrain.

I were on rental bikes, an available option, and they were

Day one began with meeting the HDA crew for the Wild West Tour, their typical 2:1 client to guide ratio; Ace would be a lead guide, local Jon Beaver, and Idahoan Ryan Groseclose would also be guiding on the trail. Jimmy had chase truck duties for the day. The lead guide and sweep guide had radio contact

recent models, well maintained, fresh tires at the ready. We rolled out of town, quickly hitting the dirt and never seeing any mentionable length of pavement until the end of the day, which was the norm for the rest of the tour. Fast high desert two tracks transformed into twisty, rolling and incredibly fun

High Desert Adventures

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

High Desert Adventures

High Desert Adventures

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

single tracks though Deschutes National Forest’s East Fort Rock and China Hat OHV areas. These trails were amongst the best I have ever ridden! Climbing abrupt rises, down bumpy descents, fast whooped straights, tricky turns through dense forest with the occasional rock outcropping – I didn’t want it to end.

This single track eventually led to the high desert, taking the group to the “Hole In The Ground.” Hole In The Ground is exactly as the elementary title suggests, but the scale is hard to convey. It is an almost 500 foot deep, one mile in diameter depression with a 110-210 foot high rim around its perimeter. This crater is a maar, created when the land was a lake, magma near the surface flashing water into steam, blowing out the overlying rock and soil to create the hole. We played around inside this volcanic anomaly for a bit, hairy descents and various climbs keeping the grin factor high. Soon after leaving Hole In The Ground, the group climbed through increasingly thick smoke from an unknown source. The smoke combined with dust, and at one point, I could only see a foot in front of my tire. Unbeknownst to us, we were pushing through a controlled burn, providing one of the eeriest riding experiences to date.

The first day ended with traversing more fast desert terrain to the quaint town of Silver Lake, pulling into “Hells Acre,” a refurbished old orphanage. HDA acts as caretaker for this historic property in exchange for exclusive rights to use as a tour accommodation, the stop adding character to the entire experience.

Dinner was a short drive away at an equally characteristic and historic establishment dubbed “The Cowboy Dinner Tree.” Homesteaders constructed the restaurant’s rustic building in the late 1800’s; its location mandated by a large juniper tree that acted as the chuckwagon stop at the midway point of a cattle drive. The tree still stands proudly behind the eatery. Vegetarians need not apply; hungry riders had the choice of an entire chicken or roughly 30-ounce steak, cooked outside on an impressively grand grill, accompanied by homemade bottomless beans, salad, and rolls. Reliving the 150-mile day ensued back at Hell’s Acre, conversation lubricated by a wide selection of adult beverages from the endlessly stocked HDA cooler.

Day two plans called for a long day to ultimately end in

under trunks and rerouting with unbound optimism even-

Christmas Valley. Soon after departing Silver Lake, gravel

tually gave way to sound thinking, and we reversed the

forest service roads provided flat tracking fun on the way

climb to an alternate route, dropping into Paisley for a

to Fremont Point, the views of Summer Lake from the tour’s

lakeside lunch. Bellies full, we headed off to Fandango

high point of 7,116 feet demanding a break to take it all

Canyon, wary of the reported silt trail laden with baby

in. The high desert environment had given way to true

head boulders. As promised, the shallow canyon deliv-

alpine, the dry dust contrasted by moist two track with

ered 30+ miles of boulder strewn trail, manageable but

occasional flowing springs and muddy tundra. The team

with enough rock to require extreme awareness for the

struggled up one climb for two hours, a countless number

duration. Tired from the 180-mile journey but content,

of fallen trees blocking the path. Hopping logs, ducking

the team arrived at the Lakeside Terrace Motel with just

enough time to shower and make dinnertime. The post

on the jagged walls, surviving the summer heat inside

dinner drinks wound the day down nicely as a cold chill

the cool slot canyon. Locals report that ice can survive

descended on our waterside accommodations.

the duration of the desert summer, homesteaders using

The last day of riding commenced with fast gravel twisties leading to another geographic feature caused by volcanic activity. “Crack In The Ground” follows the region’s plain nomenclature, and again, the name gives it away.

Crack In The Ground is a fissure formed by flowing lava causing a split in a fault zone. This fissure is over two miles long and up to 70 feet deep; colorful mosses grow

it as a two-mile long refrigerator. After exploring “The Crack,” we rallied to find remote, less traveled mountainside trails. These trails were truly alpine feeling, almost always going up or down and embedded deeply in forests; sometimes faint, but always in stunning surroundings deep in the woods. We dropped elevation to flatter and faster Forest Service roads and soon met Ace with his

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

High Desert Adventures

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

High Desert Adventures

High Desert Adventures

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

chase truck for lunch and gas, parked at yet another volcanic wonder. The South Ice Caves are one of 300+ lava tube caves in Deschutes National Forest; this one extends several hundred feet into the ground, stalactites of ice hanging almost year round. After refueling both body and bike, we were soon riding different trails in the same incredible areas encountered on the first day leading towards the China Hat OHV area. It is impossible to describe these trails with justice; the best of the best, some reminding me of bobsled runs, tires crunching a unique pumice based surface. Other trails included a

gravel and sand mix and attention demanding boulders; all were beyond comparison. During another gas stop, faces were long, energy declining, the punishment of challenging trails stacking on top of the stress of long drives home for some. The guides gave everyone an out; a way back to Prineville via road. But, alas, the way of the warrior arose with the uttering of “I don’t want to regret skipping the last bit of trails,� and in hindsight, this was the correct answer. A final stint of amazing riding that included a heroic stretch of sand whoops delivered us back in Prineville, the day totaling 170 miles.

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

High Desert Adventures

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

High Desert Adventures

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

High Desert Adventures

High Desert Adventures

Wild West Desert Tour OREGON

Ace and the High Desert Adventures crew delivered remarkable experiences not soon to be forgotten. Guides led the way ensuring safety and keeping the group together and moving, chase services ferried all the loads leaving the riders light and with nothing to do but enjoy the impeccable riding and scenery. From start to finish, the operation was professional and easy going at the same time. Friendships quickly formed, cast by shared experiences in the wonderlands of Oregon. Yes, Oregon, now occupying a top slot on the list of riding destinations, High Desert Adventures the de facto provider. Contact: www.highdesertadventures.net Check out the OBDR Tour, September 16-23, 2017 Click Here