Upshift 12 August 2017

August, 2017

Issue 12

READY FOR ADVENTURE 2017 KTM POWERPARTS & POWERWEAR

From functional gear to technical accessories, research and development is extended into the design of KTM’s PowerParts and PowerWear line up to ensure every aspect of your next adventure is READY TO RACE. AVAILABLE ONLY AT YOUR AUTHORIZED KTM DEALER

/ktmusa

Photo: M. Chytka

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations!

The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

@RideDunlop DunlopMotorcycleTires.com ©2017 Dunlop Motorcycle Tires.

TRAILSMART

ISSUE 12 August 2017

OGO SHEET August, 2017

Issue 12

THE INSIDER

Cover Olivier de Vaulx

EXPECTATIONS

Art Director Chris Glaspell Photography Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Adam Booth Olivier de Vaulx Justin Dawes Chris Modell Seiji Ishii Ana & Jon - Into the World Contributing Photographers Tim Burke Olivier de Vaulx Greg Smith Ana & Jon - Into the World

BLACK

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RGB: R255 B80

CMYK: C40 M30 Y30 K100

CMYK: N80 Y100

GEAR

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INTO THE WORLD

Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

Contact: info@upshiftonline.com

Join us online at www.upshiftonline.com Join us on Instagram at @upshift_online Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/upshiftonline

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INSTA-ADV

CROSSING THE CONGO

TOURING MACHINE horizontal on black

HONDA VFR1200X

MOTO MEANDERING

TIM BURKE’S JOURNEY - PART 1

TESTED

KLIM KRIOS HELMET HELITE TURTLE AIRBAG VEST 23986 Aliso Creek Road P.O. Box 450 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677

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Now go and find some adventure.

TUNING

HONDA XR650 - STILL GOOD FOR REAL ADVENTURE?

EXPECTATIONS As adventure riders we expect quite a bit from our motorcycles: INSIDER: JUSTIN DAWES on and off-road travel capability, comfort, power, handling and reliability. No matter the machine, these qualities intersect at different points on the big picture graph. Some have the handling but maybe not so much in comfort, or maybe power but the reliability is suspect. Any way you slice it there is give and take with your chosen mount. Yet often I hear or read complaints from owners or riders about their bikes that shouldn’t really be valid if they had realistic expectations. This goes for all sizes and shapes (bikes and riders), but I want to focus on just one group for this column – the singles.

Now before you begin banging out your keyboards with a retort, hear me out. Single cylinder motorcycles have their limitations as ADVENTURE motorcycles, especially as long distance travelers. It’s quite common to see small bore dual-sports loaded down with bags at adventure rallies. Super cool, but let’s be honest, it’s a pain in the rear to cover more than a couple hundred miles on a 250cc dual-sport. They are just not meant to stretch out on long rides. Can you do it? Absolutely, but I don’t want to hear your moaning and lamenting on how tired and sore you are, or how sketchy it was on I-90 with all the traffic.

Then there are the midsole singles. KLR 650s, 690 Enduro Rs and 701 Enduros have the power and the speed to eat up the miles, but comfort is nominal. Also living off of one for months on end is going to be grueling. And then there is the maintenance schedule, which has shorter intervals. Once again, high fives if you are doing the big trips with a single, but don’t complain when your valves need adjustment in the jungles of Nicaragua.

I’ll concede that not everyone can afford a big twin ADV bike, or that it’s possible for smaller statured riders to get along well with hulking machines. However, let’s agree that if your expectation of what your motorcycle offers falls closer to that true intersection of ride qualities, you will be a much happier rider and owner.

And I’ll make you this deal – I won’t complain about how I can’t blitz the sand whoops on my 1290 Super Adventure R if you don’t complain your tank is too small on your WR250R.

INSTA-ADV

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

Upshift, August

1. Fasst Company Impact Adventure Pegs A larger platform with better peg traction & much improved comfort.

The Impact Adventure Peg, Patent # US 6390488, accomplishes this by isolating the large cleat from touching metal to metal, resulting in the rider experiencing less vibration and abuse transferred to the foot.

With the Impact Adventure Peg you’ll have more leverage, while your foot stays better planted, resulting in your feet, ankles and knees feeling better. This adds up to a better day on the bike. Both the cleat and the base are made out of 7075 T6 aluminum, providing the best structural integrity and wear resistance. The cleat is 112mm long by 60mm wide to provide a large platform with extra leverage often needed on large adventure bikes. 13 5mm Inserts are positioned for optimal traction and wear resistance. The base is shot peened and anodized, while the cleat is hard anodized for wear resistance. The cleat is isolated from touching metal to metal through our base elastomer on the bottom, and cup elastomers on top. 10.9 bolts secure the cleat to the base, making the Impact Moto Peg not only the best performing, but the strongest aluminum peg on the market. MSRP: $259.99 For more info, visit www.fasstco.com.

2. Garmin VIRB 360 Camera The waterproof VIRB 360 is an easy-to-use camera that captures impressive high-quality video up to 5.7K/30fps, with four built-in microphones to ensure everything sounds as good as it looks in any direction. Whether users are kayaking down river rapids or mountain biking through rough terrain, the VIRB 360’s 4K Spherical Stabilization makes every video smooth and steady.

With the VIRB 360, users capture video with automatic in-camera stitching up to 4K/30fps. Videos are easily uploaded for editing or sharing instantaneously. Taking advantage of its built-in GPS and numerous other sensors, the VIRB 360 provides owners with customizable G-Metrix™ data overlays in a captivating 360-degree augmented reality.

“The VIRB 360 lets you relive personal experiences and share them with your friends – from a different point of view, every single time,” said Dan Bartel, Garmin vice president of global consumer sales. VIRB 360 owners will no longer need to worry about trying to capture the perfect angle or setting up the perfect shot. Garmin offers a free downloadable VIRB Mobile app and desktop software to edit, stabilize, share and add data overlays to any VIRB 360 video content – features that make the VIRB 360 easier to use than most other 360 cameras. Boasting conveniently simple one-touch button controls, the VIRB 360 also incorporates helpful voice control options to start and stop recordings, snap photos and more. And to make the most of “in-the-moment” experiences, the VIRB 360 features livestream capabilities to post to YouTube™ or Facebook Live with a compatible smartphone or tablet.

The VIRB 360 is built to withstand overheating and wet conditions. Beyond video, the VIRB 360 can take stitched-in-camera, 360-degree, 15 megapixel spherical photos. Photo modes include single capture, burst shooting, and time lapse. Additionally, the camera is equipped with a sunlight-readable display for users to identify battery life, storage capacity and video modes.

The VIRB 360 supports Wi-Fi®, Bluetooth®, ANT+®, and NFC (one-tap connection with Android™ devices) connectivity.

The Garmin VIRB 360 has a suggested retail price of $799.99.

For more information visit Garmin.com/VIRB360.

EXPLORE. ENJOY.

GRAVEL-T RANGE Gravel T is a line a 100% waterproof bags, made for off-road journeys and specifically suited to light motorcycles such as Enduro and Supermoto.

The collection has been developed to meet the requirements of off-road travel.

• Made from 100% waterproof material • Main body incorporating high frequency welding • Super light and resistant technical materials • Reflective inserts • Universal fixing system using straps

Find more than 900 accessories at giviusa.com Discover giviexplorer.com the web portal for motorcyclists

3. Ogio Baja 2L Hydration Pack Carrying 2 liters of liquid water is “just right” -not too big, not too small. A centrally fastening chest harness system is quick to snap into and doesn’t interfere with your arms when you’re fleeing the scene. Features; Insulated bladder compartment. 150D TPE backed mini honeycomb rip stop. 420HD oxford nylon with PU backing. 70oz (2 liter) OGIO bladder made from BPA-free polyurethane film protected by Microban antimicrobial technology. 6 liters of additional storage. Fully adjustable chest harness system.

Dimensions: 16.25” H x 10” W x 5” D MSRP: $99.99 For more info, visit www.ogio.com.

4. Baja Designs XL80 LED Light System Baja Designs has gone a step further to brighten the trail in the off-road lighting market with the introduction of its new XL80 LED light system rated at 9500 lumens. The XL80 features a bestin-class optically engineered, high powered LED and reflector assembly, delivering greater visibility and brightness for a safer driver experience and maximum trail coverage, all in a single light.

The XL80 light is offered in multiple, user changeable lens pattern options. Baja’s XL80 light features high performance LEDs which produce a 5000K (5000° Kelvin) Daylight natural light – color temperature – which replicates the sun at noon with zero cloud coverage. The LEDs and Baja Designs circuit board design deliver a 49,930-hour life span ensuring this is the last light you will ever have to purchase. Baja Designs offers a 30 Day, Money Back Satisfaction Guarantee and a Limited Lifetime Warranty on all products. For more info, visit www.bajadesigns.com.

5. Motion Pro TiProLight Wrenches The Motion Pro TiProLight wrenches are a must have for the avid off road and trail rider. Weighing less than a quarter of a regular wrenches, these tools are sized to be carried in a tool pack and you will barely notice they are there. However, when it comes time to fix a problem on the side of the trail, you will be glad you have them. Made from high strength tool grade titanium alloy, these wrenches can do any job necessary and you will look cool doing it. The unique ergonomic design sets them apart from all other wrenches, and they are clearly laser marked with the size on each wrench. The titanium material means they will never corrode, so you can just forget them until you need them. Of course you won’t, because you will want to show them off to all your riding buddies. MSRP: $108.99 For more info, visit www.motionpro.com.

Dakar is the epitome of hard-core off-road. With manageable ventilation, bomber materials and construction, the range of comfortable temperatures and conditions its suitable for has never been greater. From Baja heaters to early spring thaw runs; Dakar is the gear you grab when you don’t know what’s coming at you.

REDESIGNED DA K A R J E R S E Y & I T B PA N T

# K L IML IF E

K L I M .C O M

The next-gen 2017 Suzuki V-Strom 650XT. It’s not about the destination.

It’s about the state-of-the-art electronics package, including highly advanced 3-mode traction control that lets you adjust to any riding surface imaginable. It’s ABS, giving you peace of mind in all conditions.

It’s the genius Low RPM Assist for smooth launches and enhanced low-speed riding. It’s Suzuki’s Easy Start System that enables simple, one-touch starts. It’s the unmistakable feeling that only a V-twin engine can deliver, whether you’re crossing town or the entire continent. And it’s knowing that you didn’t have to break the bank to break free. Because the value of a journey isn’t measured in miles.

It’s measured in experiences.

Traction Control cannot prevent loss of traction due to excessive speed when the rider enters a turn and/or applies the brakes. Neither can it prevent the front wheel from losing grip. ABS is not designed to shorten the braking distance. Please always ride at a safe speed for road and weather conditions, including while cornering. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2017 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.

Four V-Strom models. Infinite journeys.

See the full lineup at SuzukiCycles.com

Wide Open

Paris, France

Photo: Tim Burke

2017

Wide Open

Tasmania, Australia

Photo: Greg Smith

2017

Wide Open

Santiago Peak, California

Photo: Olivier de Vaulx

2017

Wide Open

Costa Rica

Photo: Olivier de Vaulx

2017

ADVENTURE 2 GORE-TEX

Second to None Only Sidi boots purchased from an authorized Sidi-Motonation dealer are covered by our product warranty.

www.motonation.com

Toll Free 877.789.4940

MUD, SWEAT AND TEARS IN THE HEART OF AFRICA

Crossing the Congo WORDS AND PHOTOS: ANA & JON A.K.A. INTO THE WORLD

The adventure of our lifetime started with a simple premise: “Let’s go for a ride south!” At the time Jon and I were architects based in Romania. Going south meant unplugging from our career and switching continents to travel into Africa. So we strapped our essentials on a Yamaha XT660Z Ténéré and left. The serendipity of specifics would unfold along the way. 200 days later, we both felt on our turf. One of the perks of slow overland travel is that it gives you time to adapt. You learn to spot bivouacs in the wild and to negotiate your food in languages you don’t really speak. A nomadic lifestyle becomes second nature. We loved our time in West Africa and thought that Nigeria was a blast. We narrowly avoided trouble in Cameroon, and crossed the Equator in Gabon with a huge grin behind our helmets. Everything was going so well, and then it wasn’t, just like that.

Crossing the Congo

Crossing the Congo

Crossing the Congo

We had arrived in Matadi, a dusty town in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), formerly known as Zaïre. It was two weeks before Christmas and we needed a transit visa for Angola. To our shock, the Consulate seemed closed. An old guard informed us that in the aftermath of presidential elections and violent clashes in Kinshasa, all Angolan consular services had been suspended indefinitely. The same afternoon I learned I had malaria. Under other circumstances that would have scared the hell out of us, but we had bigger problems than that. We were stuck in limbo, with one possible way out: ride across a country roughly the size of Western Europe, on roads that don’t really exist on any map.

The next day we met with other travelers who shared our fate and with Congolese truckers to figure out a plan. From Kinshasa to Lubumbashi, they said, “You only have the Nationale 1.” This spongy unsealed track of bog and sand spans 2,500 kilometers and connects the Western coast of Africa to the East. The local trucks make the journey in 3 to 4 months. We would have to do it in one, smack in the middle of the equatorial rainy season which unloads on DRC, the most thunderstorms of any other country in the world. “Impossible,” said the truckers. High on adrenaline and faced with the prospect of unlikely success, or potential failure, Jon, Jacques, Delphine and I looked at each other, “We can do this!” We were of course grossly underestimating how long and how hard a journey across Congo can be.

For the next four weeks we disappeared in the gut of Africa: a primal realm of steamy rain forests, barefoot kids, torrid days, and flashy sunsets. Right off the bat the journey demanded sacrifice. A rooster, two chickens, a duck and a bat were all flattened by our French companions’ car. They were the first victims of a road, which after a 530kms stretch of tarmac, was uninterrupted jungle.

Out of Kikwit, we followed the Congo river, the color of coffee with milk and miles wide, which snaked its way through wilderness. The main road was an oozing scar of bog that sank the foot up to the knee. Dozens of paths, some feet wide, stemmed into waist-high vegetation. The locals called these “deviations for small vehicles.� To decide when to take them and when to avoid rolling into the biggest mistake of our lives, we had to inspect each option on foot. Congo was like a giant puzzle that we needed to somehow figure out.

Crossing the Congo

Crossing the Congo

African road is usually covered in people. Everything happens along: some walk or cycle about their daily business, some trade or doze off on bags of charcoal, awaiting transport. We were rarely alone, and if we stopped, even in the middle of seemingly nowhere, far from the mud-and-dung villages, it took a few minutes for people to pop out of the bush. Sometimes villagers eagerly tried to guide us. A noisy big motorbike was like a UFO, and soon our popularity proved helpful at police checkpoints, where we were able to negotiate our way through with a smile. The AK-47-bearing militia often forgot to ask for bribes, or even for our papers. “What is your mission?� they asked.

Because in Congo, see, there are no tourists. To leave home and wander aimlessly across a foreign land sounds nuts to people who struggle for their bare existence. And so we struggled too, with feelings of shame. Even if we had sacrificed a lot to afford the trip, we could have bought an entire village with just what we were carrying on the bike. But in spite of rife corruption and brutal weather, the Congolese have never lost their resilience. They are a special breed of people, indeed.

They were our companions: barefoot women with Sisyphean weights on their heads, gruff men who pushed up to 200 liters of petrol on chukudus, and endless rag-tag troupes of ruddy faced tykes.

And then there were the heroic truck drivers. Surviving on bland cassava porridge for months, they were never too fatigued to dial up the energy required to carry entire truckloads on their backs when the road was steep.

Crossing the Congo

Crossing the Congo

In Sokele we found 3 trucks buried axle-deep in a swamp. Cans of palm oil, piles of cassava flour and packs of biscuits littered the ground. Covered in mud from the waist down and in sweat from the waist up, 20 men were scrambling to build a bridge out of sandbags and scraps of wood that they’d been cutting for the past 3 days.

“Vous voyez comme nous souffrons?”

(You see how we suffer?) they asked.

For them, this road of unbridled beauty, poverty and inequity was their life, not a once in a lifetime adventure. While we were carving a way out, they had no choice but to stay in.

Crossing the Congo

Crossing the Congo

Crossing the Congo

As we reached the fringes of diamond country and the home of the very poor, everyone remained super friendly. This was a very different world that neither of us thought still existed outside the issues of National Geographic. The land, which became all too familiar to different parts of our bodies, was rough. Our days were spent franticly operating shovels, a winch, chains or whatever other tool we could harvest to extract ourselves from random trouble. When we were able to ride for more than a few kilometers, we still had to stop and fix the damaged vehicles. As the road kept changing and the tools started to inevitably fail, our nerves and imagination were tested to new extremes. Pitching the tent became an automatism, and we slept like dead people, even if our shelter was leaking and the ground was rarely flat or dry. Our quads constantly pulsated with lactic acid. We showered and did our laundry with rainwater. We drank from wells and rivers. We did it like the Congolese.

On Jon’s birthday we arrived in Tshikapa, and settled on the premises of yet another derelict catholic mission from the 60s. It rained softly inside our tent. I had no more dry stuff to change into, so I hit the market in search of anything redeeming. I usually bought food directly from farmers, stopping on the way and talking them into selling us some of their pineapples, corn, and whole bunches of bananas. Most markets broke my heart, disappointed my hunger and left me feeling guilty of clearing the supplies for many miles around. But in Tshikapa, besides the usual display of charcoal, green tomatoes, dry fish and termites still kicking in buckets, I found Skol sold in 750ml bottles and cake. Sometimes you think you must figure out your life’s purpose, when you really just need some sugar and cold beer!

Crossing the Congo

Crossing the Congo 20 kms before the town of Mbuji Mayi, our caravan hit what could only be described as a canyon. A thick layer of crimson clay lay on the bottom. Our tires slid on it like skates on ice. When it looked like nothing else could happen anymore, Yamaha’s chain snapped. It had over 15,000 kms on it. With the off-road detour across DRC never part of the original plan, we didn’t carry a spare. We tried to tow, but the track was like wet soap.

Jon dropped the bike and flew like Superman into a tree. I ran to him. He had only broken a brake lever, and no bones. It was time to stop and think. We were at least 200 kms away from any living soul. We pitched camp in the middle of the road, the only flat surface as far as the eye could see, cut the last avocado and wiped the Tsetse flies off our eyes. Jacques looked under the Defender’s bonnet: “Guys, the engine is leaking.”

The mood at bivouac was grim. But a night of bush mechanics later, we had patched both vehicles. We had mended the leaking pipe with some glue and fabricated a chain link from some scrap metal and two bolts, a fix that lasted for another 750 kms.

When we hit the laterite of route N38, our GPS promised a happy ending. We arrived in Lubumbashi many pounds lighter, with our gear marinated in reddish Congolese soil that one scrubs with little effect. Both felt a little nostalgic. The Anopheles-infested swamps and sky-high termite mounds of the Congo were behind us.

The adventure was over.

About us: We are Jon and Ana, a Romanian globetrotting couple of architects. 6 years ago we unplugged from our career and embarked on our first big overland ride: 14 months 2up around Africa. Since then we traveled to over 60 countries and regions, including the Silk Road to Mongolia by motorbikes and cycling across China, Tibet and the Middle East. We write about our travels at www.intotheworld.eu and on Instagram at 2intotheworld.

Photos by Simon Cudby Words by Adam Booth

You are checking out this review because you like adventure bikes, that’s why you read UpShift Online. This 2017 Honda VFR1200X falls into Honda’s adventure line of motorcycles, which includes the XR650L and the Africa Twin. Honda even considers the 500X and the 700X part of their adventure line. Die-hard adventure riders are rolling their eyes right now knowing that anyone would call this VFR1200X an adventure bike and we get it, it’s not an Africa Twin or a KTM 1190 or even a BMW GS, but it will handle a bit of dirt. We know this because we rode it in the dirt, and by some riders’ standards and definition, a dirt road is a riding adventure. The reality is simple: the VFR1200X is an adventure-touring machine. It has the looks and the style of its true adventure sibling, the Africa Twin, sporting crash bars, handguards and having a similar stance, but its heart beats to the touring world.

The 2017 VFR1200X is just like the 2016 model, except it now comes in red instead of black. It is powered by a 1237cc, 76-degree Unicam V4 engine and is available with a sixspeed manual transmission or how we tested it, with the DCT (automatic) transmission. The DCT is incredibly easy to use, simply click it into D (drive) mode and twist the throttle. There isn’t a clutch lever or a normal foot shift lever. It is just like driving your automatic car. In normal D mode the automatic transmission upshifts quickly at low rpms. This is fine for mellow riding, good gas mileage and ultra smooth transitions between gears. Switching over to S mode and choosing one of the three options increases the shift points, keeping the engine higher in the rpms. S3 is the most aggressive S mode and most of the time when out on the more open and twisty roads, I chose S3 or S2. When the roads became super twisty I switched over to manual mode (super easy with a push of a button on the right hand side of the handlebars) and used the push button shifters on the left grip area to keep the bike locked in the gear I wanted throughout the corners.

If you enjoy riding in the dirt more than logging miles on the asphalt, this probably isn’t the bike for you.

The Honda VFR1200X will gladly navigate mellow dirt roads, especially with a more aggressive tire, just avoid rocks that could connect with the bottom of the engine and exhaust, especially if the suspension compresses heavily at the wrong time. The VFR uses a linked ABS braking system that works great; it’s smooth and predictable, but unfortunately the ABS at the rear wheel can’t be turned off, which makes aggressive riding in the dirt much more difficult on a bike of this size and weight. When it comes to traction control, there are three modes of varying degree or you can turn off the traction control completely. We played with all the different settings in the dirt and preferred setting one. Of the three settings it allowed the most rear wheel spin (still not much) and kept the VFR from getting too loose and sideways. With the traction control completely off, the combination of slick tires and a powerful engine made for some scary moments. Even the slightest twist of the throttle had the rear wheels spinning wildly. Again, if you take your time and choose fairly maintained dirt roads, the VFR1200X is a perfectly capable adventure-touring bike.

The VFR engine provides heaps of torque and power off idle and through mid range. It isn’t a high-strung revving engine, with redline only at 9000 rpm, but it doesn’t need to be. The strong low-end power is predictable and response is precise while still providing smooth acceleration. Going from on/off throttle didn’t cause any jerkiness and made riding in traffic and through city streets a pleasant experience. If you want a quick burst of power, simply crank the throttle and let the DCT downshift quickly or hit the downshift paddle yourself with a quick stab of the left thumb. If you forget to upshift don’t worry, the computer will go back to working the automatic transmission. You don’t have to switch out of auto mode to make manual shift changes.

When in manual mode you will have to make all the shifts yourself.

If you forget and come to a stop, it will downshift for you. The DCT system is downright impressive.

I’m only 5’8” and the VFR felt very roomy. The low 33-inch seat height allowed me to touch the ground fairly easily, so riders taller than me will feel right at home aboard the VFR. Overall the VFR is all about comfort, including the seat. The windscreen does a great job of providing protection at speed and the adjustment lever is easy to use with one hand, even while buzzing down the road. One major thing that leaves the VFR confused as to what category it is supposed to live in is the lack of cruise control. Sure you can add it on via an aftermarket product, but any good touring bike should come standard with cruise control. The VFR still uses traditional throttle cables, making cruise control more complicated to install. A ride by wire system would make it much easier for Honda to equip the VFR with cruise control straight from the factory. Maybe 2018?

The DCT version ($15,999) of the VFR1200X is about 23 pounds heavier than the manual transmission version ($15,599). Honda claims a ready to ride weight of 631 pounds. That’s pretty heavy and that weight is way more of a factor in the dirt than out on the street. With a bike this heavy, riding in the dirt is a very calculated and mellow experience. The last thing you want is the VFR getting out of shape or coming into a dirt corner too hot. Most of my riding is on dirt bikes and adventure bikes mainly on dirt so the VFR suspension felt comfortable on the street. In the dirt the VFR suspension is way too soft to be anything near aggressive. Again, this is a street-minded machine with some ability to navigate smooth and mellow dirt. If and when you head down any dirt road, do it with a light right hand and an eye for objects that could collide with the undercarriage.

Our VFR for this test had heated grips and they were a nice touch. We didn’t ride through any rain or snow, but the temps did drop and having warm hands tricked my brain into thinking I was warmer than I was. I had the temp set on high with fairly thin gloves and never felt the grips to be overly hot, so they might be a little weak if you are riding in very cold conditions with thick gloves.

At the end of the day, the 2017 Honda VFR 1200X is an extremely friendly and easy to ride adventure-touring bike. The engine is incredibly powerful and the DCT transmission is downright awesome. Add cruise control and this thing is ready to pound a lot of pavement and lightly dance on dirt roads.

Visit powersports.honda.com for more information.

n r o o i F s n r e e p w s s u n S A e r r u u t o Y Adven DS N BUIL O I S N SUSPE M O T ES S I CU GRAD P U G N ts VALVI oduc r I REP n io spens u on S F I SK pensi s u S h ratec n I TOu ensio p s u S ins I Ohl ducts o r P d ly Rai I Ral Tools n o i s pen I Sus s Shock T I K A I WP ks IT For K A I WP ts I Par

We take pride in every one of our customized suspension solutions. www.konflictmotorsports.com Call us at 425-681-5160

“So, I’m thinking about quitting my job and riding my motorcycle around Europe,” I told my most cautiously conservative friends.

I told the ones who I thought would certainly tell me all the reasons why it was a bad idea, all the reasons why I should hang on to my well-paying job that had great benefits, a great retirement program, and a generous vacation package.

A job that I went to college for… a competitive and highly sought after job.

I hesitantly pitched the idea to them, as if I were looking for a reasonable person to talk me out of this notion. Nobody did. They told me, “If any of our friends should do this, it’s you.”

The far-fetched daydream of riding my motorcycle around Europe slowly turned into an obsession. I spent hours staring at maps, sifting through various travel forums, and studying Google Earth. I simply started “starring” locations on Google Maps on my phone. These stars became the dots that I would figure out how to connect. This trip is just a gigantic, real-life connect-the-dots puzzle!

Moto Mea

andering, Europe – Part I

The dots on my map extended as far south as the Sahara desert in Morocco to hundreds of miles north of the Arctic Circle in Norway. They pin-point ocean cliffs, tops of mountain passes, campsites, historic battle locations, and valley roads.

After selling my truck and other miscellaneous belongings, on April 5th, 2017, I quit my job as an Airfield Operations Manager in Seattle, WA. I shipped my motorcycle and my butt from Vancouver, Canada to London, England. Per European immigration and tourism laws, I would have 6 months to meander around, connecting those dots.

Shipping with Motorcycleexpress.com is far easier and more affordable than you might think. The motorcycle flies on the same airplane that you do, just like a checked suitcase. Flying your bike over, in my opinion, is the best option. Unlike shipping via boat, there is no “estimated arrival date� and no salty air to rust your bike. If you and the airplane show up, your bike shows up too. You can count on it.

I put my motorcycle on a ferry across the English Channel and headed into France. The next month of my journey brought me through the rolling hills and villages of the Netherlands and France.

The chaos and traffic of Europe’s big cities aren’t too attractive for motorcycling but the sights are well worth the hassle sometimes!

The Pyrenees Mountains, which divide France and Spain, provide calendar worthy picture opportunities at every bend in the road. Many of the mountain roads in these parts are used during the Tour De France bicycle race.

By the time I reached the Spanish-French border I had accumulated 2000 miles (3200km) in just a few weeks, but this is where the fun started!

Small rivers and streams crisscross the French countryside .

German ADV rider, Marcel Lestrade, makes his way down a dirt road deep in the Spanish Pyrenees.

Almost 4000 feet (1200m) above sea level, deep in the Pyrenees Range, lies the historic but abandoned CanFranc Rail station. Although the building is kept locked up, it’s possible to drive your motorcycle across the grounds of what used to be a hustling, bustling transit center. It’s a strange feeling taking a step back in time, imagining what used to be.

Old and abandoned tunnels are scattered around these mountains and provide a different kind of motorcycling experience than the scenic mountain passes that so many tourists usually chase after!

As I made my way west across the top of Spain, Bilbao and Leon, Portugal was next on the itinerary and boy did it impress! I don’t know a better way to describe Portugal than to call it adventure motorcycle heaven.

German ADVWhile rider, Marcel Europe often gets the reputation for providing a “pavement only� motorcycle experience. this is Lestrade, true in

makes his way down a dirt road deep in the Spanish Pyrenees.

almost all of the Alps, Portugal proves this blanket accusation of Europe wrong!

Using the “Adventure Country Tracks� or ACT for short, an almost 500 mile (800km) route is plotted for ADV riders from the north end of Portugal all the way to the Algarve in the south. This route, for those familiar, is equivalent to the BDR routes in the United States and takes you off road through small villages, far off the beaten path and far away from tourists. My time in Portugal was a highlight in all of my motorcycle experiences!

The Rock of Gibraltar rises from the horizon in this unique chunk of land. In order to access this city, you must drive across an active runway at Gibraltar airport!

With life being short and time ticking away, it was time to see what was beyond the horizon. After leaving Portugal, I’d trace the coast to the southern most mainland point in Europe: The Gibraltar Strait.

Via ferry, I crossed over the Strait of Gibraltar into Northern Africa where I put almost 1500 miles (2400 km) on the odometer through the absolutely incredible country of Morocco.

Morocco’s culture, its sights and its people deserve an entire article and separate write up. The way that its people treated me changed how I view and interpret world news that is force-fed to us via social media.

After dragging myself out of Morocco kicking and screaming, not wanting to leave, I started up the Mediterr

One of the most beautiful portions of the trip to date is again, exploring the Spanish Pyrenees and the tax-exempt (read: cheap fuel) country of Andorra.

ranean coast of Spain and France exploring the cities of Seville, Valencia, Barcelona, and Nice along the way.

I had high expectations for Italy and it didn’t fail. I quickly discovered that the only way to wash down 6000 calories of pasta, pizza, and lasagna everyday was to do so with copious amounts of Italian wine‌ and gelato.

I drove my motorcycle through thousands of twists and turns along the Cinque Terre coast line. This coast, in between Genoa and Pisa, is home to 5 unique villages that appear to be barely clinging on to steep cliff sides.

I worked my way south through Italy visiting the cities of Pisa, Florence, Rome, Naples, and Pompeii, all the while eating like a grizzly bear getting ready to hibernate!

Small villages along the French Riviera, all with their own great restaurants, make it difficult to get any mileage accomplished!

No motorcycle trip through Italy would be complete without riding the twists and turns of the Amalfi Coast!

From Brindisi, Italy I took an 8-hour overnight ferry to the northern Greek city of Igoumenitsa.

Greece is something special. I knew before I got off the ferry that it would be. It is an ancient land, home of epic mythical tales and a decorated history that we’ve all learned about since elementary school. I had so much to see here, it was hard to decide where to start. Greece has every ingredient for the recipe required for perfect motorcycle adventure.

My 2 weeks of planned adventure in Greece turned into 3, thanks to a broken metatarsal bone and torn cartilage in my foot after an accident on a 50cc scooter (yes, a 50cc scooter). But that’s a story to be told over drinks…another time.

After being forced to rest my foot while drinking cold beers on the island beaches of Corfu (sorry, doctor’s orders) it was time to move on. Greece, to date, was the hardest and most heart wrenching place to leave. It sounds dramatic, but so many amazing memories with so many amazing people were made in this country.

It was almost symbolic, leaving this southern European country. At the bottom of the Peloponnese Peninsula, on the very southern tip of the country, I made a conscious U-turn with my motorcycle. It was the last time, on this trip, I’d be so far south. From this point forward, I would be making my way north. All the way north. All the way to Nordkapp, Norway, hundreds of miles north of the Arctic Circle.

What makes this upcoming portion interesting though is riding with crutches! Turns out it’s a great conversation starter!

Bulgaria, Romania, Serbia, Bosnia, Montenegro, Croatia, Slovenia, Czech, the entire Alps region, and Scandinavia on the horizon. Stay tuned!

Follow my journey on Facebook and on Instagram by searching @TimBurkePhoto!

Klim

TESTED

m Krios Karbon Adventure Helmet

By Seiji Ishii

Klim entered the ADV helmet market in August of 2016 with the Krios Karbon Adventure Helmet, instantly creating buzz as the expectations from the upscale brand were high. The company’s well-earned reputation for quality heralded close consumer and industry scrutiny of their move into the adventure helmet segment.

The first thing noticeable on the Klim Krios Karbon Adventure Helmet is the light weight. At 3.25 pounds for a size L, the Krios Karbon Adventure Helmet is the lightest available ADV helmet in North America. Even in its heaviest configuration, with the optional custom Sena 10U unit and a Pinlock anti fog insert, it still tips the scales at 3.54 pounds, still incredibly svelte for the ADV class. This advantage becomes more critical as the riding difficulty and duration increases, saving energy, maintaining comfort and adding to the overall enjoyment. The helmet impressively maintains DOT and ECE safety standards at this weight, no doubt made possible by the hand laid, prepreg, wide carbon weave shell. This material allows precise and minimal usage of resin, decreasing mass while maintaining the inherent strength of carbon fiber.

The shape is “intermediate oval,” working well for my slightly oval head. I never got the sore spot above the forehead, even on 10+ hour days on the pegs.

The cheek pads were noticeably thick, with a softer adaptive foam compared to other helmets in my quiver, saving me from the tender ears that I can get on long days if I don’t make sure my ear lobes are set just so. The interior fabric is dubbed “Klimatek:” wicking, quick drying, antimicrobial and very comfortable against bare skin. The entire liner system is attached with hook and loop fasteners and low-profile clips, rendering it easily removable and avoiding potential pressure points against the skull. The cheek pads lack any “emergency quick removal” feature. There is also a detachable chin curtain. The overall fit and comfort of the Krios is high in relation to other ADV helmets.

Klim Krios Karbon Adventure Helmet

The second functional standout of the Krios, behind the light weight, is the aerodynamics at speed. The flow through visor and rear helmet spoiler work amazingly well in concert to keep the helmet aligned at highway speeds; looking down to battle the visor isn’t necessary. The visor is relatively stiff, withstanding resonation and is adjustable to two positions. Off axis buffeting is also minimal. The polycarbonate face shield closes shut with a reassuring, solid “click,” tightly sealing around its perimeter, never leaking air or water. The helmet comes with both clear and smoke shields; I can’t detect any distortion in either. There is ample field of view in all directions, nothing sticking out to block usable line of sight and the peripheral window is wide. They are easily swapped without tools by simply giving a quarter turn to the pins that adjoin shield and visor to the helmet.

This also allows quick mode changes: visor only, visor and shield, or shield only. Goggles and goggle straps fit under the shield. The included Pinlock anti-fog insert works well, even in the challenging humid spring conditions of Texas. Highway wind noise was manageable and I would consider the Krios in the middle of the noise range for ADV helmets.

The one area where the Krios can be improved is ventilation. Although I never overheated, I didn’t feel the amount of air movement inside the helmet that I can feel in others. The helmet has an array of vents at the mouth port, a vent on each side of the chin bar, a closable forehead vent, a pair of vents under the rear spoiler and a pair at the bottom rear. The mouth port vents do not flow through as there is an immovable guard that directs air to the inside of the face shield. Airflow would be much improved if this guard was adjustable or removable. All the other vents, although creating openings in the shell, didn’t move air as efficiently through the interior as other helmets tested. Again, I never overheated, but compared to the other well-done aspects of the Krios, ventilation is lacking.

The optional, custom configured Sena 10U communications system integrates seamlessly with the Krios; everything is hidden from the wind and view, the only visible clues are the minimal control pad at the rear of the left chin bar and the slim battery hiding under the hindmost lip. The system works as you would expect of a Sena, the only ding being the maximum volume isn’t enough to clearly hear at high ambient noise levels.

The Klim Krios Karbon Adventure helmet is a high quality, well-fitting, comfortable and incredibly lightweight player in the adventure helmet category. The all carbon shell, additional premium materials and remarkable aerodynamics add to the value of Klim’s first adventure helmet. The weak point would be ventilation, but even factoring this in, this helmet is still at the top of the list for hardcore adventure riding aficionados.

Available in 5 sizes and 4 total colorways. Contact: www.klim.com.

MSRP: $549.95, $799.99 with preinstalled custom Sena 10U

Helite Turtle Airbag Vest By chris modell

Let’s face it, most motorcycle safety products are

with another vehicle, so I am relying on their safety

just not cool. Back in the 60’s wearing a helmet

testing and CE certifications. The airbag is CE cer-

wasn’t cool and arguably it still isn’t. But, would I

tified to fully inflate in less than 0.094 seconds. I

ride my bike without one now? Definitely not.

have tried this and it is truly impressive. When in-

Airbag technology for motorcycles is no different.

flated, the jacket directly protects the neck, spine,

It is fairly new to the market but is now widely be-

chest and ribs and indirectly the head, liver, heart,

ing used in MotoGP, with the likes of Alpinestars

lungs, pancreas and collarbone. It features a CE

and Dianese leading the way with their high-end

certified back protector placed on the outside of

electronic-triggered airbag technology. In years to

the airbag, a shock resistant outer material which

come we will all be wearing them, just as we now

acts like a turtle shell. It has similar characteristics

wear seatbelts and have airbags in our cars.

to a helmet with a hard outer layer and soft material on the inside. It is triggered by a simple lanyard attached to the bike, which will inflate the vest if you happen to leave your machine. The vest is reusable with just a CO2 canister needing replacing, which takes a couple of minutes.

Fit and Comfort I tried wearing the vest on the outside of my jacket but this was uncomfortable and I was immediately put off by how it looked, so in my vanity I was about to put it back in the box. Then I thought I’d try it under my jacket just to see how it felt. What a difference! My jacket is quite loose fitting and having removed my jackets’ back protection, everything felt really comfortable. You don’t even know you have Helite has produced a reusable everyday airbag

it on. In fact, once you have it on for a few days, it

system triggered by a lanyard attached to your

feels odd if you venture out without it.

bike. They have a range of touring jackets, air vests

I was immediately drawn to this product as I have

and a vented jacket. I chose the Turtle Airbag Vest

a healthy self-preservation strategy in my life, and

to test, as I wanted to see how it would work as an

the reality is no matter how experienced a rider you

add-on to my current riding gear. The price point is

are, no one is immune to other road users. 40% of

lower, making it accessible to more riders.

severe or fatal accidents are due to chest trauma,

The biggest problem with testing the airbag vest

so wearing the best protective gear possible on your

is obvious: I don’t really fancy throwing myself off

bike may not be cool, but could just save your life.

my bike at speed and I really do not want an impact

MSRP: $629.00 Contact: www.helitemoto.com

TESTE

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY OLIVER DE VAULX

STILL GOOD FOR REAL ADVENTURE? Iconic dirt bike of the nineties, the 23 year old XR is still on the market today. Even if its racing spirit seems to have vanished in the XR650L version you’ll see in the Honda dealers, we want to believe that there’s still enough in this bulletproof air cooled four stroke to appeal to off-road travelers. Before hitting the Great Continental Divide

this

summer with two of these famous XRs, we spent some hours in the shop to make them “adventure ready.”

While the sun was already burning over Torrance, CA, the temperature was quite low in the shop dedicated for the press at Honda Headquarters. Here, among street and motocross bikes, were two brand new XR650L waiting for us to be picked up. No need of a truck, these bikes were plated and street legal. We rode them right away to bring them back to our place. This first test, even on the road, helped us to make a first list of things to change on the bike. Not talking about the obvious and mandatory replacement of the fuel tank, we quickly realized that the old school shape of the handlebar and its very low position was not suitable for riding in a stand up position. We also noticed that the gap between first and second gear was too much for technical sections on the trails.

Coming back home, we knew the changes made on the bike would be a little bit more than just cosmetic.

IMPROVING RANGE AND PERFORMANCE The trip we plan to do this summer, following the Great Continental Divide, is not a race and we don’t need a drastic improvement of the overall performance of the XR650L. The big bore provides plenty of torque and even if the maximum power is not quite as good as a motocross 450 bike, there’s more than enough for a long cruise in any kind of condition. But our trip requires the bikes to be able to do long stretches of about 170 miles without refueling. The original tank, with only 2.8 gallons of gas, is way too small to achieve this goal. We contacted IMS, who immediately provided two bigger plastic tanks of 4.0 gallons.

It’s still a little bit smaller than what we could have used but it will be enough for most of the days, without impacting the weight or the balance of the bike too much. The tank is easy to install and doesn’t require any modification on the frame.

The second mod we did was opening the air box, by removing a simple cover. Last, we changed the transmission, installing a 14 tooth front sprocket, and a 520 R32 Works Renthal O’Ring chain. The purpose was to have a shorter ratio to reduce the gap between the first and second gear. After installing these parts and trying the XR on the road proved that the tank was not feeling bigger between the legs than the original one, while the new shorter ratio improved the starts. The maximum speed was reduced of course, but the bike would still reach more than 75mph easily, a speed you don’t need often in off-road anyway. When we returned to the shop it was time to remove the original tires that were way too street oriented, and replace them with Dunlop 606 tires rear and front. We chose a bigger rear tire to have more traction and went for a 130x18, the maximum size you can fit between the swingarms of the XRs. At the same time, we replaced the original thin tubes with heavy duty Dunlop tubes.

ADDRESSING HANDLING AND SAFETY ISSUES The second step taken was to dramatically improve the handling of the bike. While the geometry was quite good, the genuine handlebar was too low and too bent to allow long rides standing up. We replaced it with a Renthal RC High-922-01, a little bit higher and wider but also much straighter. While improving the feeling a bit, it was not quite enough. We tried to install risers but the ones we found were still too low. Being 6’1”, we’re two tall riders, even if we’re short within NBA standards. We then had the lower part of the risers designed for us by a friend, who cut them in aluminum blocks with a CNC machine that he had at his work. Not only did these parts give an authentic racing look to the XR, but the gain allowed us to stand up and ride with no more awkward bending of our back and neck. The only downside was that, with such high risers, the clutch cable was suddenly too short, leading the clutch to be activated when turning the bar to the right! Not a situation you want to encounter in a critical off-road situation. We then modified the tension, using the two screws near the crankcase, and redirected the cable using a more direct route. Not a big deal, but a little bit of stress before we figured it out! Installing handguards, provided by Italian company R-Tech, was also not as easy as we thought it would be.

The braces provided in the box needed to be modified a little to adapt exactly to the bars. Indeed, you want these braces to apply an even pressure on the bar, to avoid any weak point that might develop over time. The most challenging part was managing to keep a smooth throttle after tightening the bolts of the handguards at both ends of the bar. In order to keep this smoothness and to avoid the contact between the grip and the handguard, we added some washers which acted as spacers. But it was not enough and we realized that the clutch lever was touching the guard. The washers were then replaced by thick aluminum rings, also designed by our friend. These two handmade spacers managed to keep the smoothness of the throttle and to allow the clutch lever to operate fully. With everything being close to perfect on the

front end, we realized that the footpegs were way too small for long rides, even with off-road boots.

Again, IMS came to the rescue and provided their huge Rally pegs. These footpegs were installed in a few seconds and provided a much more stable and comfortable platform for our feet. Being satisfied with the riding position, we worked on protecting the engine as well. Ricochet Off Road sent us the aluminum skid plates. The install was really easy, as the bolts were secure with an auto-lock system.

The nice openings on the skid plate also pushed the racing look of the XR a bit further, which was a welcomed bonus.

BEING SELF SUFFICIENT While the XRs are sold with a small storage space at the rear end of the seat, there’s not enough room to bring with you everything you need for a day long ride. Looking for more storage options, we came up with the products designed in Oregon by Mosko Moto. Compared to everything we saw before, these bags seemed to be the most ingenious.

While linked together to form a big loop, they all offer an independent access, which means that you don’t need to open the whole luggage compartment to find one tool or to access your water. Five different access points is more than enough to split your belongings in different sections. Wanting to be self sufficient, we decided that the minimal set would include: two spare heavy duty tubes, four tire irons, an air-pump, a spark plug, some 19 and 23 metric wrenches to remove the rear wheel, a set of different wrenches and screwdrivers for general purpose, a strap in case you need to pull a bike, a first aid kit, a waterproof Fox jacket for the high altitude or the unexpected storm, spare goggles, a minimum of 1 gallon of water, and some food.

KEEP ON THE TRACK Being self sufficient with a loaded bike is good, but not enough. If you don’t know your way, the chances of finishing the day before nightfall is quite slim. After talking with Kevin from gpskevinadventurerides.com we opted for a used GPSMap 78 from Garmin. The brand is not really interested in providing new updates to its small devices, so there was no need to spend too much for the newer models, which are not as easy to operate as the old ones! The GPS was mounted on the bars using RAM mounting system, which is really versatile and easy to use.

But operating the GPS requires some energy.

Bringing batteries could have been an option, but for long days of riding, the AA batteries life expectancy might have been too short. We then removed the seat of the XR in order to access the electrical system. With some short cuts here and there, we managed to plug a wire between the ignition and the main battery. This way, each time the ignition was switched to on, the GPS would receive current and start. Keeping the small batteries inside the GPS allowed us to operate it even with the motorcycle turned off. Thinking that keeping our iPhones charged the same way would be nice, we did the same operation again and added a USB charger plugged directly in the same output source and stored on our bags. Next, we purchased some walkie-talkies with a range of 35 miles to be able to communicate if one of us got lost, or if we lost sight of each other in the dust. An emergency button on the top of the walkie-talkie was used to ring an alarm tone, strong enough to cover the engine noise and warn the rider that he needed to stop and talk. Last, but not least, we added a chronometer on the foam of the bar to remind us to drink water on a regular basis.

600+ MILES OF TESTING With all the modifications done, the bikes seemed to be ready for the big challenge, but starting right away would have been a little bit presumptuous. We then headed to Joshua Tree National Park, CA, Hungry Valley OHV park near Gorman, CA, and to Big Bear, CA for long days of testing in real conditions. The short transmission proved its efficiency in the technical trails, and did not limit the max speed enough to be noticed. The upper and larger handlebar was greatly appreciated, along with the large footpegs. The Dunlop tires, not the best for really sandy sections, were doing good enough in the soft and went superb on the dirt and the gravel. Lastly, the Mosko bags were easy to use and their waterproof construction prevented our tools from getting totally dusty at the end of the day. Feeling the need to try a little bit more of the GPS and to know a little bit better about mileage and oil consumption, we also did a few other test rides on the Main Divide in the hills above Lake Elsinore, CA. Riding slippery gravel trails on hot days, we never lost the front end and felt very confident with the bikes, even fully loaded. Being late a few times, we ended up returning by night, judging the headlight light sufficient to bring us back home at a reasonable speed. The gas mileage during these tests, on some technical trails, was around 190 miles with a full tank, which is on par with our expectations. Even if the XR has the reputation of leaking oil, the level was never dropping dramatically and a regular check every morning while warming the engine proved to be enough.

LOOKING GOOD With all this testing and our updates, we’re not ready to hit the road and start the big adventure. The very last thing to do, and maybe the most enjoyable one, is to put all the stickers on the bike to thank our partners : Honda, of course, but also Dunlop, IMS, Rental, Mosko Moto, Ricochet Off Road, R-Tech, GPSKevin, Natti Bar and of course Fox Head. Stay tuned and be ready to read the full adventure in upcoming issues of Upshift Online!