Issue 15
November 2017
LIMITLESS EXPLORATION HQ ADVENTURE GEAR
Race to the ends of the earth with confidence. Designed and tested in real situations, the HQ Adventure gear offers the READY TO RACE quality and comfort your adventure demands. AVAILABLE ONLY AT YOUR AUTHORIZED KTM DEALER
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Photo: M. Chytka
Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.
ISSUE 15 November 2017
OGO SHEET Issue 15
November 2017
Cover Simon Cudby Art Director Chris Glaspell Photography Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Tolga Basol Tim Burke Justin Dawes Olivier de Vaulx Chris Modell Seiji Ishii Contributing Photographers Tolga Basol Tim Burke Cole Kirkpatrick Olivier de Vaulx Want to advertise with us? Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com
Want to contribute to Upshift? If you’re an experienced writer or photographer with great editorial instincts who loves finding interesting and unusual photo-related content, we want to hear from you. Contact: info@upshiftonline.com
Join us online at www.upshiftonline.com Join us on Instagram at @upshift_online
THE INSIDER MILLENNIALS
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GEAR
THE LATEST STUFF
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WHISKY BENT - SCOTLAND BOUND TIM BURKE AND CHRIS MODELL RIDE SCOTLAND
KTM RALLY COLORADO THEY CAME, THEY RODE, THEY HAD FUN
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THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE PART 1 OF OLIVIER DE VAULX’S JOURNEY NORTH
Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/upshiftonline
TESTED
DUBYA CUSTOM WHEEL SETS ROTTWEILER ENDUROCELL EXTENDED RANGE FUEL TANK
23986 Aliso Creek Road P.O. Box 450 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677
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Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2017. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements. Now go and find some adventure.
RIDE MUST GO ON
TOLGA BASOL MAKING HIS WAY THROUGH COLOMBIA
MILLENNIALS INSIDER: JUSTIN DAWES
Motorcycle ownership in the US is aging. The median age of motorcycle owners in the US has increased from 33 years old in 1990 to 47 years old in 2014. The percentage of the buying market aged 18-35, the age of millennials in 2017, has been cut in half in that same time from 58% to just 29%. This is one of the industry’s greatest puzzles to solve. Without the millennial generation the motorcycle industry can only shrink. Perhaps the revenue may stay relatively flat with fewer but more expensive offerings, but this will still mean a decline for the aftermarket and service sectors. We need these young buyers- it’s clear and it’s urgent. According to the stats above, most of you reading this are older than 35 years of age. So, you may have the opinions that many of us do that millennials are not interested in anything other than coffee shops, avocado on toast and Instagram. You also may think, “How can they afford a motorcycle? Don’t they all have degrees in artisan basket weaving or sub-Saharan music theory, and therefore they don’t have the coin to drop on a new bike?” Not true! Much like prior generations, they have money but they choose to spend it differently because their motivations are different. Millennials value experiences over possessions. So why would they spend their hard earned money on a rolling hunk of steel, aluminum and plastic? Here is why – motorcycles ARE an experience. Just owning one changes your life. We all know this, but we need to enlighten our younger friends. Motorcycle ownership is something that creates the possibility for even greater experiences. Traveling to places far and near with friends, in the elements with all the sights, sounds and feelings that can only come from Adventure Motorcycling, checks so many boxes for this crucial age group. We need to bring that experience to them, and the time is now!
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The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos
Upshift, November
1. Touratech RallyeForm Skid Plate for KTM 1090 Adventure R, 1190 Adventure R and 1290 Super Adventure R The Touratech skid plate offers the ultimate in engine protection for your KTM Adventure or ADV R. With its tubular front sub-frame, stainless steel mounting brackets, and 4mm thick hydro-formed aluminum plate, no other skid plate on the market comes close to the level of protection this engine guard offers. Available in bare aluminum and black anodized finishes. MSRP: $399.95 www.touratech-usa.com
2. Kate’s Real Food Bars Kate’s Real Food bars are the real deal. When you are used to one of the mass market bars, Kate’s bars offer up a legitimately delicious, high-quality alternative. Best of all, founder and owner Kate Schade is an avid rider and advocate for trail access. Kate’s creations are tasty, satiating, sustaining, organic, pack-able, fast-acting, and worth every penny. The perfect fuel for a long day in the saddle. Find them at: wwwkatesrealfood.com Your first order is 30% off with this code: UPSHIFT30
DEEPRAIN WATERPROOF
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Upshift, November
3. Overland Adventurer Kit Kube™ System Get Organized! Ideal for organizing storage spaces in motorcycles, camper vans, truck campers, SUV’s, drawer systems, off-road vehicles, and RV’s. The Kit Kube system is a set of Adventure-Duty organizing Kubes for your travel gear. It’s not just some Kubes, it’s a modular dimensional storage system designed to optimize packing efficiency and accessibility for any size storage area. www.overland-adventurer.com • Dimensional system allows efficient stacking of Kubes to fill any storage space • Clear window enables you to immediately see the contents of the Kube • Heavy-duty materials and oversized zippers to hold up to rugged outdoor use • Water resistant and fast drying (poly fabric is urethane coated on the inside) • Size Small: 6.5” L x 6.5” W x 3.25” H (2.25 liter); 2.8 oz. (79 grams) MSRP: $9.95 • Size Medium: 13” L x 6.5” W x 3.25” H (4.5 liter); 4.2 oz. (120 grams) MSRP: $14.95 • Size Large: 13” L x 13” W x 3.25” H (9.0 liter); 5.3 oz. (150 grams) MSRP: $19.95
4. SAXX Kinetic Long Leg Underwear Made for performance, Kinetic Long Leg’s action stretch fabric is specifically designed for high output aerobic activities. Features include the BallPark Pouch™, semi-compression, quick dry, Three-D Fit™ with 9-panel construction, Non-chafing Flat Out Seams™, anti-microbial technology, and a moisture wicking waistband. This pair is built for the active, who need support along with breathability to stay dry and comfortable. Every pair of SAXX underwear houses their patented BallPark Pouch™. Designed for contact-free support, this 3D hammock-shaped pouch keeps everything in place, thanks to mesh panels that prevent skin-against-skin friction, and no exposed stitching for no-chafe comfort. MSRP $39.95 USD www.saxxunderwearcom
Wide Open
Hood River, Oregon
Photo: Simon Cudby
2017
Wide Open
Morocco Rally
Photo: Monster Energy Honda Team
2017
Wide Open
Helena, Montana
Photo: Olivier de Vaulx
2017
STREAMLINE 1325 GRAMS | 3YR WARRANTY | MSRP $650 PAT ENT ED BRAI N PROT ECT I ON SYST EM T RI PLE D ENSI T Y EPP/EPS PROT ECT I ON 20 I NTAKE PORT S | 6 EXHAUST VENT S T I TANI UM HARD WARE MAX AI R HEAD LI NER EXT RA MATCHI NG VI SOR PLUSH SE4 HELMET BAG
SAFETY YOUR
IS OUR PRIORITY
FACTORY 1425 GRAMS | 3YR WARRANTY | MSRP $450 PATEN TED BR A IN P R OTECTION SYSTEM TR I P L E DEN SITY EP P /EP S P R OTECTION 2 0 I NTA K E P ORTS | 6 EX H AUST VEN TS STA IN L ESS STEEL H A R DWA R E COMFORT H EA DL IN ER TL D H EL MET SOC K
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Wide Open
Vernon, Canada
Photo: Cole Kirkpatrick
2017
The all-new 2018 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. Destination: everywhere. For high-mile adventure touring, you need a high-tech adventure bike. One with advanced 3-mode traction control that lets you adjust to any riding surface, from tarmac to rough terrain. A first-in-its-class three-axis, five-direction Inertia Measurement Unit that feeds data to the new Motion Track ABS and Combined Braking System for predictable, optimal braking, even while cornering. And a powerful, fuel-injected 1000cc 90-degree V-Twin engine perfect for crossing a stream or the country. The V-Strom 1000: the comfortable-yet-capable ride you need to tackle anything. And experience everything.
Traction Control cannot prevent loss of traction due to excessive speed when the rider enters a turn and/or applies the brakes. Neither can it prevent the front wheel from losing grip. ABS is not designed to shorten the braking distance. Please always ride at a safe speed for road and weather conditions, including while cornering. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2017 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.
Four V-Strom models. Infinite journeys. See the full lineup at SuzukiCycles.com
W H I S K Y B E N T &
S C O T L A N D B O U N D
Upshift contributors Tim Burke and Chris Modell both had eyes for Scotland and when rental and tour company rentamotorcycle.co.uk said they would show them the way, they jumped at the chance. Photos and Words: Tim Burke
It took a lot of convincing…okay fine, it didn’t take any convincing when Chris Glaspell, editor of Upshift Online, contacted me to ask if I was interested in riding motorcycles on narrow, twisty, and jaw-droppingly scenic roads.
That wasn’t all he had to say though…we would be riding with an expert local guide on brand new rental motorcycles. Oh, and one more thing: he needed us to report back on the groups’ findings about the best whisky that this slice of heaven had to offer!
SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND
I got a little weak in the knees with excitement! I was already 25,000 miles into my European journey when I arrived at www.rentamotorcycle.co.uk or “Rent A Motorcycle,” based at BMW Motorrad Central, in Edinburgh, Scotland. They are an independent, family-owned business that is staffed only by enthusiastic motorcyclists and adventurers. It was there that I met my teammates for this Journey, Martin Williamson and Chris Modell. Martin, our tour guide, has been riding motorcycles in Scotland for decades. He knows every nook and cranny of the land like the back of his hand and has been guiding 2-wheeled tours in the region for about 10 years. He is the resident comedic-meteorologist for all motorcycle trips that Rent A Motorcycle organizes.
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“What’s the forecast looking like in Scotland this week, Martin?” In a true Scottish accent, Martin responds, “100% chance of weather! I guarantee it!” or he says, “50/50. Might be wet, might be dry! Let’s go find out!” Chris, first and foremost, is a family-man, who speaks often of the accomplishments of his three children and his wife Steph. An experienced adventurer and full of stories, Chris has sailed a small sailboat across the Pacific Ocean and has ridden motorcycles on multiple continents! He has a beard that commands respect and dance moves that garner the locals’ attention with ease in small Scottish pubs. Chris is a man of experienced wisdom, who in just five days of riding, taught me a lot about life. For this journey, we would be riding three motorcycles from the Rent A Motorcycle line-up. I would ride the ever so familiar R1200GS Adventure: Triple Black paint scheme and brand new! I chose this bike because I could directly mount my camera case to it. Chris would ride an F800GSA while Martin would tear up the Scottish roads on a brand new R1200GS Rallye.
These are just three bikes from Rent A Motorcycle’s 25-motorcycle line up. Daily rental prices range from £95-219 and the bikes are almost always less than 6 months old. What’s cooler is that virtually every model of BMW motorcycle is available. They even offer a side car if you’re confident enough to take on the narrow roads with such a beast!
SCOTLAND
The magic of Rent A Motorcycle’s business lies in the ease of making a U.K. motorcycle vacation attainable for anybody. Located just outside downtown Edinburgh, only 15 minutes from the airport, your job is to simply show up. It’s recommended that you bring your own riding gear but everything else has already been taken care of. Hotel and restaurant reservations? Not a problem. Epic routing? Already planned! Rent A Motorcycle has you covered. Just ride the bike!
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The dealership, where Rent A Motorcycle is based, is full of local rider-knowledge that will pre-program tracks into your GPS. These off-the-beaten tracks are guaranteed to keep you far from tour buses, off busy motorways, and take you deep into this fairytale land. Some of the roads that we traveled, in our 5-day/1,250 mile excursion, don’t even show up on Google Maps! It was a Friday when we pulled out of the busy streets of Edinburgh, bound for the single track twisty roads of the Highlands. It should be noted that “single track” in Scotland refers to roads that are only wide enough for a single vehicle – not single line trails, associated with mountain biking and dirt biking. Within 15 minutes we were driving through the Scottish countryside, through forests so thick, it seemed as though we were in a tunnel.
SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND
One footpeg-scraping turn after another, we came across Scotland’s oldest working whisky distillery, The Famous Grouse. Old whisky barrels line the property, really driving home the spirit of Scottish whisky culture. With Martin leading our charge, true adventure isn’t hard to find around the green hills of southern Scotland. The smells of recent rain, agriculture, and the hum of BMW motors, as we twisted and climbed our way into the Cairngorms National Park, really have a way of connecting your soul to the land. No words seem right to serve justice to the magic of riding in this mystical place. Every bend in the road offers a postcard-worthy scene, and with Chris and I stopping to take so many pictures, it offered Martin the opportunity to teach us about each area that we were in. An absolute expert on each road that we were on, Martin would tell us what was lying ahead: “We’re coming up on Scotland’s Highest Mountain Pass” he’d say or he’d offer a short story about a historical event that occurred on the very spot that the motorcycles were parked!
SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND
The day ended in the small village of Grantown on Spey, with what would become ritual: A celebratory tasting of Scottish whisky that Martin conveniently kept in his top pannier!
Early to rise, we were on the road again, bound for the Northern Highlands.
SCOTLAND
If this land is not on your bucket list yet, I suggest you put it there.
Miles upon miles of paved paths, so narrow that care must be taken when passing, climb through these hills. As we approached the northern coast of Scotland, which is jagged and steep, Mother Nature put on a magic show for us! The lighting was like nothing I’ve seen before. The clouds separated right at sunset and golden rays of light illuminated the road, the motorcycles, and the land. It was so beautiful, with so many gorgeous scenes, it took us nearly an hour to cover the last 10 miles of the day!
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We arrived in the small village of Durness and ended the day with, you guessed it, the finest whisky a motorcycle top box has ever carried! Music at the local pub started shortly after eight, where all 10 of the village’s residents seemed to be hanging out! A father/son team pumped out song after song of traditional Scottish music on a guitar and accordion. It took a whole two minutes before Chris was dancing his way around the small restaurant!
After a long late night, and seemingly, not enough rest, we hit the road towards Plockton, a small fishing village of the rugged west coast. Our first stop though, was still in Durness: The Smoo Caves – A network of
SCOTLAND
ancient, natural tunnels carved out by raging underground rivers. I’ve never seen anything so gloomy and pretty in my life. Especially at the same time!
SCOTLAND
Our route to Plockton was anything but a straight line. We traced the coast south, in and out of long, narrow inlets. A highlight out of all of the miles we laid down in Scotland was Applecross, where we made friends with the famous, “Highland Coo.” These cows, massive in size, hang out on the sides of the road and have hair that would make Donald Trump’s mop look neat and well-put! Plockton, like most of Scotland’s hidden away villages, has an old fashioned feel that makes you forget about the problems you left behind in “real life.”
The next morning, the Isle of Skye was on the horizon and both Chris and I, having heard of it before, were absolutely exci
ited to see it.
SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND
It was on this island that the team would conduct a full-fledged Search & Rescue mission for a cell phone that was left on the pannier of a motorcycle! Can you spot the phone in this picture? We spent time exploring the sight, sounds, and small roads of the island. Southbound we pressed, off the island via one of the most memorable boat rides of my life: The Kylerhea Ferry. This is a true gem of the Scottish Highlands that is a must-visit when you ride with Rent A Motorcycle! Although the ferry crossing is only a mere 600 meters (2000 ft), massive tides can make the crossing look pretty gnarly! That’s not what makes this old ferry system so unique though. It’s the turn-table style vehicle deck. With this boat, you drive onto the vessel in a normal manner. Once the vehicles are loaded, the 2-man crew turns the entire vehicle deck around. It’s balanced and pivots on a center axis. I’ve never seen anything quite like it. Our last night on the road was spent in Glenelg, where again, we ended our high-mileage day with a toast and taste of delicious whisky!
W H I S K Y G A L O R E B y C h r i s Mo d e l l
Upshift invited me to Join Tim Burke and Rentamotorcycle.co.uk in Edinburgh for a two-wheeled Highland adventure. All they asked is that I enjoy myself and test some of Scotland’s finest malt whisky. Someone kick me… how could I possibly refuse? Scotland boasts at least 100 distilleries, most of which offer tours. I highly recommend you visit one or two whilst in Scotland. However, with a 0% drink drive policy, the best way to enjoy a single malt is later in the evening in a local bar. On the Friday evening, we found ourselves at the remote Smoo Cave Hotel in Durness which sits on the wild Atlantic coast up in the west Highlands. The bar was full of local characters including: Duncan the head dear stalker, John the Ferryman with his accordion and Sophie the young estate Gillie, and they were all out for a lively time. We were treated to a spontaneous evening of music, song, laughter and good old-fashioned Highland hospitality. The genius of single malt Scotch whisky, the reason it’s been the water of life for centuries, is because pretty much any way you drink it, it tastes fantastic. Cereal grains are the staple ingredients of whisky, because they provide the starch, which becomes alcohol. Scotch can be made from wheat, oat, rye, maize or corn, but to be a single malt Scotch whisky the grain must be barley. Distillation is the ancient technique of heating a liquid to separate its component substances. To make a single malt Scotch whisky, Scottish distillers must use a pot still made of copper. This is an ancient process that’s been refined over centuries, and one in which so many factors can come to influence the flavor of the final product. To be a single malt Scotch whisky, the spirit must sit in the oak cask in Scotland for at least eight years; some maturing for as long as 70 years. The process isn’t really about age; nearly all of the taste comes from its contact with the casks. Over our week we sampled so many malts varying in tastes and flavor from soft smooth velvety Glendullan to seriously peaty Dalwhinnie. I cannot honestly say which was my favorite as I think some more research may be required! All I can say is if you are lucky enough to travel in Scotland you will find a warm welcome and no shortage of folk willing to help you experience the finest single malt whisky Scotland has to offer. So, go visit and enjoy.
SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND
It was also where we would meet the restaurant manager at the Glenelg Inn who gave us the most comprehensive, knowledgeable, and educational whisky tasting in the land. (Am I allowed to describe whisky tasting as educational? Who cares, I’m doing it!) Our last day, from Glenelg to Edinburgh, rang in at just under 250 miles. I can’t describe in text how special the people of Scotland make you feel as a visitor in their land. “Highland hospitality” is what they call it, but it is so much more. It’s a culture of inclusiveness. A group of people who want nothing more than for others to see the beauty of their people and their country.
SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND
There is no easier way to experience this than the incredible simple process of hopping on one of Rent-A-Motorcycle’s 25 bikes. For more information on how to plan your own Scottish adventure head over to www.rentamotorcycle.co.uk or call and chat with the owner himself at +44 (0) 131 603 4466. Thank you so much, Martin, for the wisdom, experiences, and impeccable weather forecasting “It’s gonna be wet!” during our time in your amazing country.
KTM
RIDER RALLY
RIDER KTM RALLY 2017
CRESTED BUTTE COLORADO
Photos and Words: Simon Cudby
Located in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, Crested Butte is probably one of the most beautiful places you could ever ride. I attended the KTM Rider Rally here in 2016, so I had an idea of what to expect. As we rolled into the town and saw the mountain above the ride staging area, I was again taken aback by just how scenic this place is.
KTM
RIDER RALLY
RIDER KTM RALLY 2017
CRESTED BUTTE COLORADO
This event is not just about the amazing riding in this area, but also the people that attend. With 300 riders from all over the country, including some KTM legends like Mike Lafferty, Quinn Cody, Ronnie Renner, and Taylor Robert, there are ride routes for all levels. In addition, a big part of the event is the vendor area where riders can check out all the new parts made for their ADV bikes. The Day 1 riders’ meeting was bright and early with Mark Hyde giving us the do’s and don’t for the rides, and lots of good information. This rally is a good place to ride with some off-road legends, so the “Ride with Pros” list filled up quickly. I signed up for the “Hard” rated Fossil Ridge loop, and our guide was ex-racer and part time comedian Mike Lafferty. I’ve known Mike for a long time, so I knew it was going to be a fun day.
KTM
RIDER RALLY
RIDER KTM RALLY 2017
CRESTED BUTTE COLORADO
KTM
RIDER RALLY
RIDER KTM RALLY 2017
CRESTED BUTTE COLORADO
We rode the pavement south out of town through Almont, and then hit the dirt. Our group was doing really well and the pace was fast for the most part. As this was not a GPS-guided ride, we stayed in eyesight of each other and our sweep rider Paul would gather up any stragglers. After a few challenging uphill rocky sections, Paul caught up to us and told us he had sent one of our guys back to the road as the trails were a bit tough for him. More on that later‌ This was a great time to be out riding in this area as the aspen trees were changing color, so we stopped often to shoot photos. This trail proved to be challenging and Mike gave us all tips on riding the sections where he thought we might have issues. We stopped in Pitkin for a bite to eat, and that’s when we found out the fate of the guy who had turned back. Apparently he took a wrong turn and dropped his bike down a small bank and twisted his knee. He had left his bike and was now starting out on foot trying to walk back to the road. His riding partner was still with us and was explaining to him on the phone how to drop a pin with his location, and to stay with his bike. Sweep guy Paul headed back to find our lost rider, and we continued on our ride.
KTM
RIDER RALLY
RIDER KTM RALLY 2017
CRESTED BUTTE COLORADO
KTM
RIDER RALLY
RIDER KTM RALLY 2017
CRESTED BUTTE COLORADO
After a long day in the saddle, we grabbed some dinner and a beverage or two. As the resort is at over 9000 feet, some people were having trouble getting a good night’s sleep. I was one of those people- wide awake at 3am…ugh. On Day 2, I made my way to the pit area to make a video of some of the new gear on display. After lunch we geared up to go for a quick ride and a photo shoot on the Gothic Loop with Chris from Rottweiler Performance, John from Dubya, and Eric and Justin from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. Both Chris and the RM guys had project bikes that we were going to shoot images of. Chris had a KTM 1290 Super Adventure R video, and the guys from Rocky Mountain had a 1090 Adventure build and a Husqvarna 701 build.
KTM
RIDER RALLY
After our first photo stop, the skies opened up and we were riding through a hailstorm further up into the mountains. Luckily for us, it didn’t last long and now the trails were a little damp and the dirt was perfect for riding. We found a good river crossing
RIDER KTM RALLY
and our group started doing passes for my Nikon. Rottweiler Chris found a good uphill turn that made for some sideways action on his big 1290.
CRESTED BUTTE COLORADO
After a great few days of riding it was time for the awards dinner in the big KTM tent. Many good stories about the rides were
2017
shared, and more than a few beers were consumed by all. Big thanks to the KTM team for having Upshift out to this rally. We will be there next year for sure!
YOUR ADVENTURE OUR PASSION At Rottweiler Performance, our focus has always been to ask the question, “How can we take these incredibly well engineered machines and creatively manipulate them into what we, as a unique consumer with personalized needs would want from a motorcycle?” That answer becomes your adventure, and our passion.
Proven Intake Systems
Exhaust Systems & Mufflers
Tuned Velocity Stacks
Tailored Plug & Play Performance Kits
Fueling Programmers & Jet Kits
Huge Line of KTM Aftermarket Accessories
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ADVENTURE RIDER RALLY
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www.rottweilerperformance.com
Riding t he Great Cont inental Divide Part 1
Facing t he Unknown Using an iconic dual sport bike on a mythic off-road path across the country is the dream of every dirt rider. But going from the Mexican border to the Canadian border following the Great Continental Divide is a 2500 mile journey which is more likely to change yourself than just one more ride checked off your bucket list. Such an adventure is not to be considered lightly, and the beginning of our trip was the proof that great preparation was the key to our success. It all started in Torrance, California at American Honda Headquarters with some small talk about off-road riding with the new Africa Twin that turned to a more serious discussion about the future of off-road riding in the USA. Was it still possible to have great adventures on a dirt bike today, in an age where regulations and urbanization put some pressure on our sport? It was all we needed to start dreaming and bragging about what we would like to do. In a few minutes of informal conversation, and as is often the case with great ideas, the project of doing a long off-road ride across the country took form. With the help of Honda we soon received two brand new XR650L’s. We chose this iconic bike not only because of its racing history, but also because of its proven reliability. This street legal dual sport won countless GNCC and Baja races and could link our modern journey to the glorious past of the golden age of off-road riding. Of course, the base XR650L doesn’t come with all of the features we needed for this trip, so we modified the bikes accordingly. With the mods being detailed in an earlier issue of Upshift, let’s just say that we basically added a big IMS tank, some Ricochet skid plates and RTech handguards, a pair of large IMS Rally footpegs, two modern Renthal handlebars and some hand made power supply for the cell phones and GPS. Last, but not least, we attached to the bikes the awesome Mosko Moto Reckless 40L bags to carry the tools, water and jacket we would need every day. With their long travel suspensions, their Dunlop D606 knobbies, their transparent tanks and big saddle bags, the XR650L’s were like horses ready to endure the long journey across the country that early pioneers did when they came to the west coast.
Photos and Words: Olivier de Vaulx
12 Day Journey For us, starting in California and heading west was not interesting. The trip had to be from South to North, or more accurately from Mexico to Canada following the Continental Divide. This invisible geological line is the exact location where the water collected from the rain goes either toward the Atlantic Ocean or the Pacific Ocean. Running along the country for more than 2500 miles, this line knows no state border and doesn’t bother avoiding mountains. In fact, the map shows that the divide crosses 5 states, each having its own geological identity. It starts in New Mexico, with an average elevation of 3000 ft. through Colorado with passes at 13,000 ft. before heading to Wyoming with more rolling hills but still a very high elevation and finally ending in the forest and lower mountains of Montana. Basically, this means a roller coaster of temperatures from very hot to very cold and more gear to pack in the bags. For every traveler, following the line means going through the whole distance during summer when the snow is nowhere to be seen and the weather is not too bad. We decided that a window of 12 days for the ride itself, not counting the three additional days to go in to New Mexico and to come back from Canada, would be enough. But there would be no time to waste! Everyday, the average distance would be around 210 miles, with longer stages being more than 270 miles long. Not a big deal on the highway beside the boredom of riding on the pavement, but not the same story on dirt roads. Looking at the numbers, we were in for a minimum of 8 hours a day. Easy to say when talking to a riding buddy in your living room, but how much of this can your body really take? Even if you’re confident with your physical condition, there’s still a very uncomfortable question remaining: What will the weather look like with the very high elevation? We knew that the forecast would change quickly and that sunny mornings could lead to powerful storms in the afternoon. Rain was very common in the mountains even during the summer months and we quickly realized that we would have to expect some muddy trails, and depending where the lightning would strike, some areas could be closed due to severe wildfires. With all of that in mind, we knew that camping in the great outdoors wouldn’t always be possible and we anticipated some nights in a motel. Unfortunately there’s nothing you can do about the weather, so the preparation here was mostly mental: Plan for the worst and be ready to enjoy life when it gets better!
Loaded GPS Before we started worrying about the details of the trails our attention was focused on something totally different. When looking at the actual path we needed to follow, checking the places where we could sleep, get gas and buy food, things became a little bit more intense. There were just a very few points on the map where we would find any kind of supplies in the remote areas we planned on riding through. We are used to one-day trail rides in our home town with a light enduro bike and some water, we would have to learn quickly how to load our bike with the essentials to survive in a desperately empty environment. We used Internet resources like Google Earth, which would help us find the right spots for refueling or shopping, but the trip was so long that planning for the exact route was just overwhelming. It’s hard to know just looking at some map if the trails were really open to motorcycles or if the riding conditions were okay. Luckily, there are some people in the US who love riding enough to have it already figured out and have the desire to share it with the public. That’s how we met Kevin and his Africa Twin. This retired engineer from HP offered on his website gpskevinadventurerides.com all of the information we would need. But Kevin also sells the maps and SD cards for your GPS, making the endless process of planning the route easier. After paying a ridiculously inexpensive price of $42, we received the key to our success. With our SD card inserted, the GPS device showed the full track, including way-points for the gas stations! Colors shown on the screen would tell us if we were on the normal path, on a bypass or on a hard sideway. In order to have a big picture of what was supposed to happen during the day paper maps would provide a great overview of the different stages. With all of this information we were feeling more confident about the whole trip and it seemed a little bit less like a gamble.
Start ing at t he Border Loading the bikes on a trailer in California at 5am on a gloomy July morning made all of our doubts disappear. In front of us, we had a long drive in a pick-up truck up to Antelope Wells, NM- the Port of Entry in the USA at the Mexican border. Parking the pick-up the second day in front of the gate, in the very middle of nowhere, was really exciting. How could we dream about a better starting point? There was nothing here beside small government buildings and a fence, which was a good sign for people looking for the great outdoors. The sun was already high and the temperature was rising above 81°F. The two XR650Ls were idling smoothly while we checked the pressure of the brand new tires. With helmets on and GPS activated it was time for a high five between us and we were ready to start this great journey! After the long hours spent in the car, standing up on our bikes was a big relief. We rode fast, maybe a little bit too fast, but the dirt was so good. It had been only a few minutes but we already felt in a different state of mind. The speed, the melodic roar of the engines, the contrast of colors between the blue sky, the green plains and the red dirt were all adding to the incredible sensory experience. From Antelope Wells to Silver City there was almost no life to be seen. Just a long ribbon of dirt that we were following with our eyes wide open and with the help of the GPS, the tiny arrow was always right on the blue track of the screen. Sometimes, the noise of the air in the helmet reminded us that we were riding at really high speeds. This was not ideal but we couldn’t help going faster, the upper body moving forward over the bars to fight the pressure of the wind. We were going well over 75mph and were comfortable at this pace. In that moment we felt like nothing could happen and were feeling free! Arriving in town stopped that magic moment; even though a good night in a real bed is never a bad thing, we just wanted to keep riding.
Racing t he Storms The weather was changing quite fast during summer in New Mexico and not in a good way. For the second stage, one of the longest of the trip, we had 270 miles ahead of us as we left our motel in pouring rain. That day was spent racing storms in and out of pouring rain and threatening skies. It was not such a big deal while riding in the forest on hard dirt full of stones, if you don’t mind the rain drops hurting like little needles when touching your skin. The trails were narrow, winding through the trees and crossing fields of yellow flowers. The ride was more technical and much slower than the previous day and so different that it was a real pleasure. The sun was back that afternoon letting us enjoy some vast plains and rolling hills, with some nice rocks randomly disposed on the sides. Some cows let us pass through their pastures, and the rest of the day went smoothly until we reached a sign about the Continental Divide at a crossroad just beside a big yellow warning that said, “Use Caution When Wet”, but who are you if you take the pavement at the first threat? With all the confidence of the novice adventurer, the warning was easily dismissed and the bikes started. It began on very good dirt, and the naive riders enjoyed the nice corners of this small track. But suddenly, everything changed. In a few feet, the trails became muddy and really slippery. The fun all disappeared as the wet clay refused our tires’ grip. Riding on this surface was like riding on ice, meaning the bike would never go straight, no matter what we tried to do with the handlebar, the gas or the brakes. Compared to big adventure bikes, the light weight of the XRs and the aggressive profile of the knobs of our D606 tires were a big help, but the situation stayed barely under control. The only way to survive was to ride standing up, in second gear, and to keep a minimal speed to clean the knobs and remove some mud. Each time the speed was too low, it became impossible to steer the bike. In these unusual conditions, each inch forward was a victory, each controlled slide with no crash was a rush of adrenaline. After the one-hour of fight we finally found a paved road that felt better than finding a nugget of gold! Still exhausted after this incredible experience, we realized that the stage was far from being over, even if night was already here. The bikes were full of mud and weighed a ton. If that was not enough for the day, the drain bolt on one of the XR’s that we obviously didn’t tighten properly fell out just before arriving in Grants, NM. With all of the remaining oil on the ground, the XR was still running without any complaint! It was time to open the bags and use one strap to pull the unlucky rider to town. We searched for a car wash and cleaned the bikes with just the light of our iPhones. This took quite a long time, especially after 12 hours on the bike. But there’s no adventure without some struggle, right? The next morning, we found a match for our missing bolt in the local hardware store, a 10mm metric with thin threads. After tightening the bolt and filling the XR with new oil, we pressed the button. The engine started without a cough proving that the bulletproof reputation of the Honda is not an urban legend! Relieved, we acknowledged that we were lucky to lose this bolt just before Grants, the only city in this part of New Mexico where we could find a replacement part. All of the other towns we crossed earlier were so small we barely had time to see the first building before exiting the place. Most of them didn’t even have a gas station!
SEE AND BE SEEN! Performance Lighting Solutions For Every Adventure Ride www.cyclopsadventuresports.com
True Colors of Adventure Starting the day with a nice blue sky, we understood why the inhabitants of New Mexico call this state the “Land of Enchantment.” The landscape changes every 10 miles at most. From red to white, the dirt is never the same. It’s a constant mix of long straight lines with perfect curves, of large backcountry roads heading to narrow single tracks. Hills and mountains follow one another just like birch forests follow endless fields with herbs swept by the wind. Every hour or so, we stopped, opened our Mosko bags and grabbed a Natti bar before drinking some fresh water. These food breaks allowed us to take in amazing landscapes, in fact, we never felt the need to stop in a real restaurant. There was nobody around and not even a plane in the sky. It was the best dining room we could dream of! Unfortunately these stops were short, as we needed to keep going. Standing up on our large rally footpegs, the bike cruised on some easy gravel road, allowing our minds to wander. There was a feeling of loneliness but it helped us appreciate the landscape. Again, the hours flew by and it was already evening, with still many miles to go before we would arrive at the lake where we were supposed to camp. Even if we stopped a couple of times to take pictures, we didn’t expect to be so late. With the night approaching and no service on our cell phones, we had no choice but to cross a large, dark forest where the riding became more technical. There was some real enduro there that we would not have enjoyed with big adventure bikes! However, the XR won countless GNCC races in the nineties and even today, it was a real pleasure to play with this big four stroke in such hardcore conditions: slabs of stone in deep descents, slippery roots, deep ruts, mud and rolling rocks. There were enough traps to rate these single tracks as triple black diamonds! The headlights were on, and the shadows they created helped read the track in the darkness of the night. It was still easy to take a bad line and end up with the
front end diving in a big hole. Thankfully the suspension of our XR’s was very forgiving and had saved us in many situations with very little input from the riders. It was hard not to fall in love with such a safe bike! Of course, there was no way to go crazy fast in these gnarly conditions, and the average speed was literally dropping. As if it wasn’t hard enough, the rain finally caught up to us. At least the lightning gave us some extra light. Arriving at the lake after 10pm with 12 more hours of riding in our legs, it was too late to enjoy the view. But crouching to enter the tent, we still smiled, knowing that this night ride was something we would never forget. Laying down in our sleeping bags, we didn’t close our eyes. Instead, despite the fatigue, we questioned ourselves about these first three days, wondering if we found what we were looking for. The answer was obvious: New Mexico offered a wide range of trails in an incredibly wide variety of landscapes. Reassured to see that the freedom to circulate off-road always exists, we soaked up the experience. Wild beauty of the country, wild weather, wild rides, it was definitely a rider’s paradise here! After such a great start, finally sleeping under the tent, we didn’t worry anymore and just dreamt about riding in endless plains. This adventure just began and we knew that tomorrow we would enter Colorado. But that’s another story, that we will tell you all about in the December issue of Upshift… Stay tuned!
T humbs up Such a big adventure wouldn’t have been possible without the help of all the people listed below: It all started with Jason Abbott, from American Honda, who loaned us two brand new XR650L; Chris Hardin, at IMS, who provided the 4 gallon tanks and the big Rally footpegs; Pete Day, boss of Mosko Moto, who sent us the perfect waterproof Reckless bags; Kobi Iseri and Chris Onstott, at Fox Head Inc, who dressed us with their super comfortable gear; David Kaiser, from Renthal, who took care of the handlebars; François Carrette, who fed us with his delicious and super healthy Natti Bar; Ricochet Off Road, who protected our engines with strong aluminum skid plates; Broc Glover, at Dunlop, who provided us with the front and rear D606 tires- the perfect mount for our bikes; and, last but not least, Kevin Glassett, founder of gpskevinadventures.com, who built the priceless tracks that we used on our GPS devices.
DUBYA USA WHEEL SETS By Seiji Ishii
John Anderson, the founder of Dubya USA, has been an easily recognizable and approachable personality in the professional supercross and motocross paddock for six years. John and his wife Kristen took over the Talon distribution rights in the United States in 2011, and they have produced the highest quality wheel sets for many of the premier teams and riders utilizing the best parts, regardless of country of origin. The superstars of racing don’t hold a monopoly over these wheels; fortunately, they are available to dual sport and adventure riders who demand and require the same durability and quality as the pros. Dubya USA’s enviable selection of wheel components reads like a Christmas wish list to anyone familiar with high-end parts: Talon and Kite hubs, Bulldog spokes, Excel and D.I.D rims. Dubya can build custom wheels comprised of any mix of available componentry and color scheme, but they also sell complete wheel sets which in many cases, is what the discerning rider would specify anyways. I tested such a complete wheel set: The Talon Pro Billet Wheel set Talon Pro Billet hubs, D.I.D. Dirt Star ST-X rims laced with Bulldog stainless steel spokes and Dubya billet aluminum nipples. Un-boxing the wheels presented eye-popping beauty; the magnesium colored hubs and black rims were almost too pretty to voluntarily subject to trail hazards. The quality of each component was super impressive and obvious, comparisons to stock parts unfair. The Talon hubs were born from a single chunk of aircraft grade aluminum with a flawless anodized finish, and the rims were visually stout. The Bulldog spokes were a much heavier gauge than stock, which inspired confidence that these wheels would easily shrug off any obstacle encountered. Although I was unwilling to damage these new wheels, in the name of testing, I reluctantly mounted them to my KTM 450 XCW and started abusing them immediately in Colorado. Climbing up seemingly endless scree slopes and rock-strewn dry river beds and descending with abandon and limited skills. As with any new wheels, I did my due diligence and tightened the spokes after every ride for the first five rides. The wheels then went back to Texas to slower and tighter trails but extremely rocky, with more squared off ledges going both up and down. I checked the spokes regularly, but they ceased to require much maintenance after the initial seating period. I am notoriously hard on wheels; according to Andrew Short, I just hit obstacles straight on, demanding machinery to take the brunt, too enthralled or unskilled to use throttle and technique to lessen the load. Shorty has dubbed me “Captain Chaos” for my implicit knack for destroying parts. John Anderson has also commented on wheels he has seen me destroy. Remarkably, these Dubya USA wheels remained round and true, zero flat spots, no loose spokes. None of the nipples were rounded off from periodic maintenance, and the hub bearings remained silky smooth. The rest of the bike was rendered somewhat haggard, but the wheels were surprisingly the standouts regarding durability and appearance. Wheels are one of the most important and abused parts on a dual sport or adventure bike; failure can be catastrophic to enjoyment, body and the rest of the machine. If upgrading is on the list for your beloved ride, Dubya USA is worthy of consideration. Whether you wish to specify a custom wheel set or go with one of their complete wheel sets, quality in both componentry and assembly are guaranteed. MSRP: Talon Pro Billet Wheel sets start at $594.95 www.dubyausa.com
TESTED
ROTTWEILER PERFORMANCE ENDUROCELL EXTENDED RANGE FUEL A sleek and integrated way to add extended range to the KTM 950/990 Adventure, the stock 5.8 gallons of total fuel capacity on KTM 950/990 Adventure can fall short for the true journeyman yearning for long stretches of lonely dirt in remote places. Carrying extra fuel bottles, Rotopax containers and the like can suffice, but Rottweiler Performance has developed a slick, integrated and automated way to extend the range of the venerable 950/990 by 35 to 50 miles. The Rottweiler Performance Endurocell Extended Range Fuel Tank occupies the exact circular space where the lefthand silencer resides on a stock 950/990 Adventure. A Rottweiler Single Side Out kit is required (MSRP $395.00 - $799.00), which replaces the mid pipe and deletes the dual muffler set up, leaving a single muffler on the right side while also eliminating 16 pounds of weight. Robust 1/8 inch thick aluminum is meticulously ARC welded to form
TESTED
valve and hose clamps to the Endurocell. A mounting plate fastened the front of the tank to the subframe, and a large locking clevis pin affixed the rear through a stock silencer mounting tab. Composite materials isolate both front and rear tank anchor points from vibration. A highly recommended Quick Disconnect Kit utilized dry break connectors and allowed ten-second, tool-free removal of the tank. The Endurocell functioned seamlessly; fueling continued as normal, the low fuel light illuminated after the Endurocell stretched the range of the bike. Filling the Endorocell was an equally low effort affair; a standard threaded fuel cap and fuel neck graced the end of the tank, and the check valve prevented fuel in the stock tank from back flowing and reducing capacity or overflowing no matter the order of filling. Removing the Endurocell with the Quick Disconnect Kit involved separating the dry break connector, unclipping a pin from the rear of the tank, and lifting it up and back. This uncoupling ability saved the day when another rider ran out of fuel and made leaving the tank at home quick and easy. It also allowed simple separation of the Endurocell from the fuel system to save the gas for absolute emergencies. A billet fitting held the bike side dry break connector, while a cap (stored on this fitting) protected the Endurocell side connector. The investment required to utilize the Rottweiler Performance Endurocell is hefty; the Single Side Out Kit plus the Endurocell set up will indeed light-
TANK
en your wallet. The Single Side Out Kit will drastically reduce weight, which improves handling By Seiji Ishii
the body of the fuel tank. Rottweiler offers 1 gallon or 1.3 gallon capacities, along with a natural aluminum finish or powder coated textured “stealth� black finish.
and the Endorcell increases range and peace of mind. Rottweiler Performance historically upholds the highest degree of quality in its fabrication and hardware, and their design has proven thoughtful, thorough and clean. All of these aspects of a homegrown company deeply rooted
Installing the Endorcell was simple and straightforward.
in ADV and dual sport riding combine to produce
Rottweiler Performance included all necessary hardware
end products that are much more than the sum
and explicit instructions to ensure a clean and tidy final
of their parts, and the Endurocell is no different.
product. A barbed T fitting was spliced into the crossover
MSRP: $399.00, +$20.00 for textured black finish,
line between the two stock fuel tanks, and from there an-
+$89.95 for Quick Disconnect Kit. For more info go
other fuel line was plumbed through the included check
to www.rottweilerperformance.com.
COLOMBIA Photos and Words: Tolga Basol
I have spent nearly 3 months in Central America and most of it was in Costa Rica. I was not able to discover it properly when I rode through the country two and a half years ago. I had briefly ridden around the Nicoya Peninsula, because I had to catch the Stahlratte in order to get to Colombia. But I always wanted to go back to Costa Rica and spend more time in the country. That is why it took some time to start my second South American adventure. My Spanish was better and improved so I was quite excited to ride around Colombia for the second time.
As I have cruised on a boat in between Panama and Colombia on the Caribbean before, I decided to ship my motorcycle in a container and get a plane ticket to Cartagena for myself. In about a week, I was riding out of Aduana where the necessary paperwork and bureaucracy along with hot humid air frustrated me a little bit. My plan was to head southeast in order to get to El Cocuy National Park close to the Venezuelan border. Once I reached Ocana, my intention was to avoid main roads as much as possible to El Cocuy. The real fun started right after Sardinata as suddenly I was gaining altitude through the jungle, surrounded by amazing views of the valleys.
In between twisty gravel roads and occasional local bikers (Colombia is the most motorcycle friendly country in Latin America, as the number of motorcycles in the traffic is quite dense) I saw a church dome ahead while I was getting into a small town called Gramalote. The church was telling about what happened in 2010. On December 17 the municipality of Gramalote suffered a landslide that affected 400 homes at the periphery of the town. The entire population was evacuated. In addition to the rain, a geological fault caused the houses in this town to crumble like poker cards. 100 houses collapsed and some streets and pedestrian walkways broke open as if an earthquake had taken place. It is plausible that the town of Gramalote ceased to exist according to a report of Caracol Radio.
As I was stopping quite a lot for photos along the way, it was getting dark and I decided to sleep at the town called Salazar de las Palmas. The next day I left quite early with the goal of reaching to El Cocuy before dark.
I had 200 miles of riding ahead of me and after a while I realized it was a weird mix of perfect pavement and fast dirt roads. The photo stops were getting more frequent as I was getting higher and higher. With 45 miles left to reach El Cocuy, the sun was going down in between the slopes gently swiping across the valley. I was mostly following along Rio Nevado and at just about sunset I reached El Cocuy.
As my nice, clean and quiet hotel room was just $7, I decided to stay longer in order to ride around the area the next day. I woke up really early and decided to do a loop around El Cocuy. About a few miles after the town of Guican,
I was feeling as if I was riding in Switzerland. It reminded me of the Alpine Passes of Europe with green fields and dairy cows wandering around with the white peaks as the backdrop.
I had all day ahead of me to explore so I started wandering into the sidetracks I started noticing along the way. One of them led me to a National Park post, with two friendly dudes who greeted me. They offered me a hot beverage while I answered their curious questions about my motorcycle. After practicing and improving my Spanish further, they let me pass the gate and warned me about the big washout ahead. I could see the glacier very clearly from where I was and I wanted to get closer. After a couple of miles, I was at the spot that I was warned about. I could risk it but I decided to head back and continue my loop.
I got back to El Cocuy and quickly checked the town plaza, everything around the church and the square. Also known as Sierra Nevada del Cocuy or Cocuy National Park, El Cocuy is an amazing place, which you should really visit while in Colombia. National Geographic calls it one of the best kept hiking/trekking secrets in the world.
I decided to get to Barichara the next day. I did not to stop for any photos and just enjoyed the ride. It turned out to be a really fun dual sport route for 160 miles. I was passing through small mountain towns with curious eyes all around checking out my motorcycle. Once I got to Barichara, I decided to stay for three days and get some rest. Barichara quite reminded me of Antigua in Guatemala with colonial architecture, many churches in close distance and cobblestone streets. It was a touristy town after all but the areas around town was worth staying for a couple of days.
It is widely acknowledged as one of the best preserved and most beautiful colonial villages in Colombia. Lots of restaurants, souvenir shops and art galleries were spread around town. While resting and checking out my photos in Barichara, I also created a route to Medellin and was looking forward to riding it.
I headed south first to Oiba on the pavement and kept riding west to Contratacion. I was having so much fun. It was a fairly fast route thanks to the dried up red clay, which could turn into a nightmare in the case of a rainstorm, but was worth the risk. Once I passed Contratacion, I was climbing high up towards Aguada when I realized that I had lost some of my stuff. To be continued...