Issue 16
December 2017
RACE BEYOND THE HORIZON TOURING CASE SET
Carry your momentum even further with the TOURING CASE SET from the KTM PowerParts range. Built to carry a capacity of over 60 liters combined, leave nothing behind as you race to all new destinations aboard the KTM 1290 SUPER ADVENTURE S. AVAILABLE ONLY AT YOUR AUTHORIZED KTM DEALER
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Photo: M. Chytka
Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.
ENGINEERED FOR ADVENTURE
CARLSBAD The Carlsbad was conceived of the need for highly mobile, highly vented and minimized bulk adventure gear – all while maintaining KLIM’s highest abrasion resistance and durability standards. Specifically designed to handle the rigors of on and off -road riding, the Carlsbad integrates vastly improved venting and mobility, as well as an optional kidney belt, over the Overland series that preceded it.The Carlsbad is the essential ADV setup for riders looking for a nocompromise streamlined package of high mobility, comfort and durability.
K L I M .C O M
ISSUE 16 December 2017
nformation: These drawings contain information o Upshift. Any reproduction, or transmittal of this without expressed written consent is prohibited by partial or complete of the sord marks is prohibited ble to the full extent of the law. Issue 16
December 2017
LOGO SHEET
Cover Greg Smith Design Chris Glaspell Photography Editor Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Justin Dawes Olivier de Vaulx Seiji Ishii Christophe Noel Leonie Sinnige Greg Smith Contributing Photographers Olivier de Vaulx Cole Kirkpatrick Christophe Noel Peter Scheltens Greg Smith Want to advertise with us? Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com
Want to contribute to Upshift? If you’re an experienced writer or photographer with great editorial instincts who loves finding interesting and unusual photo-related content, we want to hear from you. Contact: info@upshiftonline.com
Join us on Instagram at @upshift_online Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/upshiftonline
THE INSIDER
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CMYK: C40 M30 Y30 K100
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THE GIFT
INSTA-ADV INSTAGRAM TRAVELERS
GEAR
THE LATEST STUFF
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18,380 REASONS TO BREATHE GREG SMITH RIDES THE HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINS
THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE PART 2 OF OLIVIER DE VAULX’S JOURNEY NORTH
23986 Aliso Creek Road P.O. Box 450 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677
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Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2017. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements. Now go and find some adventure.
AMSTERDAM TO ANYWHERE PART 2, A JOURNEY TO REMEMBER
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CARDO SYSTEMS SCALA RIDER PACKTALK MSR HUBBA TOUR 1 TENT
KTM ADVENTURE RALLY CANADA THE UPSHIFT CREW HEAD NORTH FOR SOME ADVENTURE
THE GIFT INSIDER: JUSTIN DAWES
On Christmas day 1984 I was given a gift that I have continued to carry with me. As a child I thought the XR75 that I got for Christmas was the greatest gift I had ever received, but I was wrong. It wasn’t the bike; it was the bigger world of motorcycling that came along with it that was truly a life-long gift. Did my dad know this when he taught me how to shift later that day on a dry lake bed in the Nevada desert? Of course he did! Did he know it would be all-encompassing and impact nearly every life decision from that day forward? I’d like to think so. As the holidays come rushing headlong towards us and the days of 2017 run out, the question of what to give our family and friends that would show our love and appreciation once again comes to the front of our minds. I try and follow my dad’s example from 33 years ago and I urge you to do the same. Maybe some of you are fortunate enough and in the position to buy a motorcycle for your spouse, kids or grandkids. But even if you’re not, you still can pass along the priceless gift of motorcycle riding and it will only cost you some time and fuel. Take someone you care about for a ride and show them how the world opens up from behind the handlebars of a motorcycle. Invite them to a group ride or camping trip; let them see the common thread that runs through all of us. Help them understand that any rider is a friend even if you’ve never met before. Hopefully it will stick with them and they can pass this gift of motorcycling down the line. Their life will be richer for it, and so will yours.
INSTA-ADV
The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos
Upshift, December
1. New Shoei VFX-EVO The world’s most evolved off-road helmet has emerged. Long overdue? Perhaps. But world-class engineering and quality take time. Fully loaded with next-level performance, safety, style and progression, the all-new VFX-EVO proudly boasts the SHOEI-exclusive Motion Energy Distribution System (M.E.D.S.) — strategically engineered to reduce rotational acceleration energy to the head in the event of an accident. MSRP: Solid Colors $539.00, Metallic Colors $559.00, Graphics $719.00, Replicas $739.00 www.shoei-helmets.com
2. New KLIM Badlands Pro Jackets/Pants When Badlands Pro was released to the Adventure-fueled riding population over five years ago, it started a global motorcycle travel movement. Quickly, KLIM’s Badlands Pro collection became the most trusted global travel companion in all of motorcycling. From the inside out, KLIM has engineered the core of Badlands Pro DNA for the next epic trip. These newest pieces incorporate breakthroughs in: armor impact, armor coverage, and armor comfort performance, ventilation, storage, all-weather functionality, abrasion resistance, durability, and visibility. Jacket MSRP: $999.99 (3XL $1029.99) Pant MSRP: $699.99 (Tall sizes $719.99) Available: February 2018 www.klim.com
3. Zulz Bag Co. ZEUS Gear Bag Engineered with a “mobile locker” mentality, ZEUS provides you with organization and structure to whatever you’re using it for. Constructed primarily with 600D Oxford Nylon and 1680D Ballistic Nylon accompanied with YKK #5 & #10 zippers along with off-road style wheels. Uniquely designed for any outdoor activity and engineered to stand upright with complete organization whether opened or closed. Adjustable shelving to fill this bag to full capacity while keeping gear organized for all your off-road travels wherever the road may take you. MSRP $349.95 zulzbagco.com
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Upshift, December
4. Scosche PowerUp 300 Portable Jump Starter / USB Power Bank Don’t get stuck by the side of the road or trail with a dead battery. The Scosche PowerUp 300 spark-free, lightweight charger is compact and fits nicely in your gear bag. Not only will it start any bike it will start up to a 3.5L V6 automobile! Upshift recently took this on a trip to Baja and it charged multiple gadgets and still had power to jump start a stranded bike MSRP: $79.99 www.scosche.com
• Multi-Functional 5V (2A) USB port allows you to charge mobile devices • Safety Protection against Short Circuit, Reverse Connection, Polarity & More • Ultra-Bright LED Flashlight • Holds charge up to 6 months at a time • LED Battery Level Indicator
Wide Open
Moab, Utah
Photo: Simon Cudby
2017
Wide Open
Silver Star, BC Canada
Photo: Cole Kirkpatrick
2017
Wide Open
Rawlins, Wyoming
Photo: Olivier de Vaulx
2017
Wide Open
Catavina, Mexico
Photo: Simon Cudby
2017
Wide Open
Continental Divide, Wyoming
Photo: Olivier de Vaulx
2017
REASONS TO BREATHE PHOTOS & WORDS BY GREG SMITH
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E The air is thin, there is snow on the ground and all of the mountains around are snow capped as well. It’s 18,380 feet above sea level and I am struggling to breathe normally in between shots of water from my camelback as I sit waiting for the rest of my crew to arrive. Funny enough, I’m not sitting here by myself. There are at least another two hundred people. Why, you ask? Well, this is Khardungla Top in India, the World’s highest motorable pass. Let me help by putting its height into perspective. It is nearly 2,500 feet higher than Mount Everest’s Tibetan Base Camp or over 11,000 feet higher than Australia’s highest Mountain, Mt Kosciuszko, which means it’s incredibly high no matter who you are or how you got here! Most everyone around me is a tourist that has paid to be driven here by the local tour groups in and around the valleys below the pass. That said, there are loads of vans, buses and cars that have carried them here to experience life at the top. As for me, I didn’t walk, hike or run. I used a motorcycle!
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E This was day two of the first edition of the Royal Enfield Motorcycles Moto Himalaya Adventure ride. The motorcycle brand Royal Enfield has an intimate relationship with the Himalayan Mountains, which goes way back in history with the Ladakh region being a very special piece of that. We based ourselves out of Ladakh’s capital of Leh and traveled from our accommodation to the specified daily locations or for overnight trips depending on the weather limitations. Our hotel, The Kaal, was clean, modern and warm; not that it was that cold. It was in the mid 20’s and quite balmy. Over the next few days we used a Yurt, a circular tent, as our accommodation. Dare I say it, we would all have been happy to return to The Kaal! After flying from Australia to New Delhi via Singapore it was a domestic flight that got me to Leh accumulating next to 17hrs of flight time staggered across two days. Arriving in Leh I was met by the Royal Enfield crew and transferred to the hotel where twenty-two motorcycles sat waiting for their latest set of “guinea pigs.” The bikes that were chosen to complete the adventure task were the latest reincarnation of their original Bullet. An EFI 500cc single cylinder four stroke engine mated to a 5 speed transmission replaced the mules that would have originally been used to move my sorry ass up and down the mountains earlier on in history. The bikes’ ergonomics are extremely suited for highway cruising and not for attacking dirt-covered mountain passes. But the bike can and does take all of the changing surfaces in its stride. Mind you, there has to be loads of give and take from both you and the motorcycle across an adventure ride like this one that incorporates asphalt and dirt across multiple days in all types of conditions. That said, it was the simplicity of the bike that helped bring this group of international journalists closer together across the eight-day ride.
REASONS TO BREATHE
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E Back to Khardungla Top, the crew arrived spreading themselves around the area like a set of rats. Only these rats had cameras and needed to record every single square inch of the place. The recommendation was to only stay at this altitude for a maximum of 15 minutes to reduce the effects of altitude sickness. I had been there for about 30 minutes and it was time for me to leave. The run back down the mountain included me passing loads of buses and motorcyclists heading up to the top for the “unique experience” passing a few groups of people that seemed to be working on the sides of the road along the way. Later I found out that they were crushing rocks to use in road repair and it drove home that we were in a third world, be it extremely nomadic, culture where people had to do the basics by hand just to continue to survive. At that moment I felt extremely thankful that I lived in Australia! On our return to The Kaal there was no celebratory drink as we had been asked to refrain from alcohol as it exacerbates the effects of altitude sickness. It was not that much of a problem for me but Jorgen, the German journalist, was having fits! After dinner and our rider briefing for the next day’s event we headed into Leh and scoured the markets for some crazy specials. Tip: take a calculator and know your currencies. While there, the other Australian journalist, James Kerley needed WiFi as he had to do some “business.” After a couple of hours trying to find a location we gave up and headed back to The Kaal.
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E Over the next two days we saw more road builders riding kilometer after kilometer of dirt and asphalt roads, only this time we were headed for an overnight camp at the edge of Pangong Tsu in the town of “Man” believe it or not! Along the way we were encouraged to stop at roadside restaurants. These places didn’t necessarily look like a shop to westerners but more like a house with chairs out front. The thing that separated them from a normal house was the hanging chip packets and bottles of Coke and Pepsi lined up next to the front door. I tried to trust the food from these roadside markets but did take note of the expiration dates, as everything we bought was out of date. So we made sure that whatever we bought was still sealed. That meant everything from the chips to the bottled water as I had a couple that didn’t “twist-snap open” so I poured them out. You can never be too careful with what you consume in remote areas like this and there’s no local council inspector looking after trade in these regions. The accepted delicacy for travelers is Maggi two-minute noodles found at all roadside diners large or small in mountainous regions. Due to their dehydrated state they stay good for long after their “use by” date and the water used by the locals is boiled so as to eliminate most of the bugs. These became a good source of carbohydrates.
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E Pangong Tso or Pangong Lake, as we westerners would call it, was amazing and a true visionary oasis for those who have crossed the world’s third highest pass marked by the Border Roads Organization. Chang La is 17,688 feet at the road’s highest point. This pass was remarkably less busy and more heavily traveled by the military, which were extremely active while we traveled through the remote regions of India. We stopped for a late lunch at the lake and ate like kings at a Lakeside restaurant that featured a mix of Indian, Tibetan and Chinese dishes. As a motorcyclist it pays to be selective when it comes to cooked meals as getting your pants on and off isn’t as easy as you’d think. The most common dish that I found on the trip was Paneer Curry. Vegans rejoiced but everyone else took vitamin tablets as our energy stocks soon depleted just eating vegan meals. The road from our lunch stop to where we would be staying was quite possibly one of the most fun rides I had ever ridden and I’ve spent the last 10 years riding across the world. It weaved along the lake’s edge sometimes actually crossing the smaller lake inlets which made for some fun, as well as the deep sand track we followed on our “street bikes” that were fitted with “street tires.” Three riders joined me out in front of the group for a little pretend Dakar Rally racing and it slowly developed into a side splitting comedy of errors that ended with a deep water crossing! With two Americans and a Frenchman pitted up against an Australian I was not going to let my country down so I started to wick up the pace. We were laughing so much that we kept pressing on cracking up at our near crashes on the sand and the water crossings until finally we got to the mother of all water crossings. I let Christophe fire through it first where surprisingly he made it but the bike dropped below its tank at one stage. From then on it was a calamity of errors as the crew had to ride through it. With bikes stopping in the water and on the edge, it was side splitting for the few of us that managed to get through it earlier.
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E After this moment the crew was never the same and we had suddenly been joined at the hip through this experience. The next day we trekked back to Leh in the opposite direction. Many of the water crossings had receded due to it being early morning and the sun hadn’t melted the snow and ice. It was a fairly uneventful trip back to Leh, which wasn’t disappointing as most people were still getting over the previous day’s ride. The longest part of the total experience was our ride out to Tso Moriri Lake to our meeting point of Rumtse, which was a total distance of 240k out of Leh along some of the most scenically stunning roads that I’ve ever ridden. After a quick pit stop we headed over the Tanglang La Pass at 17,480 feet, the second highest motorable pass, which could be taken as fast as we deemed safe due to the extremely smooth surface on the way up from Rumtse. This was also the first location that we could see Yaks up close but surprisingly I decided to look quickly and keep it pinned. Once over the top we headed into Debring for lunch where we sat beside the road enjoying a beautifully cooked meal set up on some tables out in the open in the middle of nowhere! After lunch we headed towards the first of two incredibly stunning lakes. The first and smaller one was Kyagar Tso while the second, and our location for the night, was called Tso Moriri, which was patrolled by the military. When they wanted to see my passport I had to tell them I didn’t have it as it was with the Royal Enfield guys and they were a little ways back. I could feel the tension as I sat there waiting for the guys to arrive. Fortunately when they did it was fine and we checked into our accommodation shortly after called the Nomadic Resort.
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E
REASONS TO BREATHE
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E The next morning was the final ride day. I checked on Arjay and he wasn’t very happy with himself to say the least but he was able to sit back and relax in a car for the trip home. Heading back over Tanglang La Pass I noticed so much more along the road like the fresh mountain water streams cascading their way along the edge of the road. The beautiful purple flowers covered the water grasses near the top of the Tanglang La Pass. I also noticed a few Marmots and Yaks, which made me wonder why I was noticing all of these wondrous beauties. I think it was because my body realized it was time to go and my senses were trying to get me to stop thinking about speed and more about experiences. Either way it was a great final day back to Leh with one last trip to the local markets and then it was on to the ride presentation dinner where everyone was celebrated for their achievements throughout the journey. After this we were encouraged to drink and celebrate. Unfortunately it was late and our flight out of Leh was at 7am the next morning but that didn’t stop a few of us from playing Jenga until the wee hours!
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E
18 , 3 8 0 R E A S O N S T O B R E A T H E Would I do this again? For sure, in a heartbeat! Would I ride like I was trying to win a trophy? Probably not. This was a great trip that catered to the diverse rider skill levels that we had in our crew and that in and of itself needs to be commended. If you love motorcycles and really enjoy truly unique and once in a lifetime experiences, a trip to India’s side of the Himalayas is definitely for you. Don’t forget to do the trip on a Royal Enfield. I would suggest using their newly released Himalayan as that would make the trip a whole lot more comfortable given the roads I navigated. A massive thanks to Royal Enfield, Adarsh, Arjay and the mechanic for all working tirelessly to make sure that the ride was an extremely no fuss affair! And to Larissa from Flight Centre that somehow made a 72-hour wait for my visa turn into an overnight experience! Think that this is an adventure that you’d like to do by yourself or with a few friends? Here’s the link to the information for next year’s event: 2018 Moto Himalaya: 12-21 August 2018. The ride details are available on royalenfield.com/motohimalaya
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Riding t he Great Cont inental Divide Part 2
Going T he Distance When starting a long trip across the USA, you know you’ll deal with long hours on the bike, constant weather changes and random hazards along the way. The challenge is appealing and nothing can stop you from starting the journey. Finishing it is another story, as the days are piling up and the fatigue builds. Finding true adventure in America is worth the cost, as long as you can handle the physical and mental pressure. Crossing the USA from Mexico to Canada using dirt roads on a Honda XR650L dual sport bike is definitely the kind of adventure you want to do at least once in your life. We explained in Upshift issues 12 and 14 how to prepare the bike and what to expect for the first days of the trip. Even if it’s not a race, riding 2500 miles off-road is likely to take a toll on your body. After experiencing riding days of more than 12 hours in New Mexico and encountering hazardous riding conditions, we knew that going through the mountains of Colorado would further raise the difficulty level. Indeed, as the trails became harder to ride, what started as a tough adventure became a real challenge. Actually, we were soon about to discover our limits and to survive one of the most challenging rides we ever had to endure.
Photos and Words: Olivier de Vaulx
Easy Transit ion Everything started well when we exited New Mexico and entered Colorado. In fact, we had a surprisingly easy first day, which was a blessing after the last two tough rides we had in the previous 48 hours. After leaving Chama and its old rail station, the GPS took us mostly on large gravel roads. As we followed rivers where fishermen were all over the place, reminding us of the 1992 Robert Redford movie “A River Runs Through It,” we felt a bit disappointed. It sounded too easy and that day looked like a necessary but not exciting transition between the two states. Things got better when we took some elevation. As we climbed the trail we finally had wonderful views of the surrounding summits. Small lakes were all around us, providing great overlook points of these colorful mountains. Looking at the screen of the GPS, we could see the altitude rising significantly, reaching twelve thousand feet! At this point, a break was necessary. With the lack of oxygen at such an elevation, just walking away from the bikes was enough to feel the start of a headache. Laying on the grass and eating a bar, we enjoyed the most peaceful afternoon we could have dreamed of. Cruising down toward the valley and arriving just before dusk at the campground near Del Norte, we had time to appreciate the sunset and later observe the shining stars. Had we been sailors, we would have known that such a calm day would precede hours of tempest. We were just happy to have some rest unaware that life in the wild is never that easy.
Not For Big Bikes The next day started under a perfect blue sky, in a landscape almost identical to the African Savannah. Doing wheelies on the red dirt, we felt like exploring the countryside in every possible direction. But soon the GPS showed us that we had the option to take a single track, featured in red on the screen. The indication “not for big bikes” being hidden in the information menu, this single track option was so appealing it couldn’t be ignored. Actually, the first hour was so good we couldn’t help but smile. Riding with our loaded XRs as if we had light enduro motorcycles, doing small jumps and leaning the bikes in the corners, the sporty ride was just so much fun we couldn’t believe our luck. Crossing our first river with no problem at all, we felt like kids going to the beach for the first time.
It was all good fun until the track reached a deep forest and almost vanished. Like in a horror movie, dark clouds and lightning were reaching the closest summits. At the exact same time the ambiance took a sinister turn, and from there, everything was going to be way more difficult. The first climb with a ton of rocks was fun, as we put all of our skills in the balance to reach the top without stopping or touching the ground with our boots. But then we realized that it was only the first of a long series of steep climbs and downhills, full of rocks on a very narrow path. It was still manageable until we found a big obstacle in the middle of a tight corner on a small track climbing along a steep cliff. These two big rocks put a big doubt in our minds. Even if it can be considered light for an adventure bike, the XR650L is still a little bit on the heavy side compared to real enduro motorcycles, especially when loaded with bags, tools, water and 4 gallons of gas. Losing the balance on a single-track trail above a 60-foot cliff diving directly in a river, is definitely not a fun perspective. Launching the XR650L in first gear, trying to keep momentum, the first attempt failed when the slope of the climb, added to the rebound of the fork on the first rock, made the front wheel take off, aiming directly to the grey sky. Not a viable situation, and that was it for a first stall, luckily without a crash. From here, starting over on the climb with no traction and no way around the block was difficult. Much of the rider’s attention was about trying to avoid falling under the bike or worse, falling in the water. With one rider pulling the bike while one was playing with the clutch, throttle and rear brake, both sweating as much from the effort than from the fear of the ultimate mistake, the teamwork paid off. By the time the two bikes were over the obstacle, 20 minutes were gone as well as at least 20% of our energy! Going down the next descent led us to the river with a path not even large enough for a hiker. Each foot forward had to be conquered while trying to find traction on wet and moving rocks. The “not for big bikes” mention could have been “not for bikes” and we would have understood it perfectly! At this point, riding was so slow that the engine oil started to boil inside the frames! True to their reputation, the XRs didn’t mind, starting after each stop as if they were built for these kinds of crazy conditions. The path continued to offer this mix of climbs, descents and riverbeds until we ended up in front of a really large water crossing.
Surviving T he Mud The current was strong, the water deep, and the ford really large. With the bushes preventing any exploration on the side, no other path could be found and the bank on the other side seemed to be steep, muddy and full of stones. With no exit strategy and not wanting to go backward, we had no choice but to launch the bikes in the cold and dark water, managing to keep the balance on the rolling rocks under our tires. Eight seconds can be a really long time when you try to make your way in such hazardous conditions! Reaching the other side, keeping a maximum speed, the bike hit the mud. The front tire tried to find a way around the stones while the rear slid. Climbing on the bank, the XR650L now faced a path full of muddy holes, wet grass and deep ruts. Keeping momentum with the help of the torquey engine, the Honda moved forward. The rear tire ended up in a deeper hole and the skid plate was soon lying in the mud, the XR unable to move one inch forward. It was time to ask for help and walk back to the river. The mud was so deep and sticky that the boots were almost ripped off of our feet! At this point, the second rider was stuck in the muddy shoulder near the river. That was the moment we realized that such a big adventure had a better chance of success with two riders traveling and helping each other than with one guy alone in the middle of nowhere. That’s also when the great preparation and the wise planning paid off. Taking a big strap out of the bags, we managed to pull the two XRs out of the mud. Luckily it worked great, because afterward we realized that we had no backup plan. Finally, with the bikes safely on the wet grass, we continued on the slippery trail. The cows had destroyed basically every inch of the trail while walking in the mud and it was all but an easy ride. After a while, big rocks replaced the mud. Going through these technical sections with our motorcycles designed for high speeds in the desert was a new challenge. Balance, steady gas, good lines and confidence were the key of the escape. No wonder our arms were getting sore and the infamous arm pump was unavoidable.
Reaching T he Summit Finally, the trail exited the bottom of the valley and started climbing up the face of very high mountains. It was basically a very deep rut full of sharp stones headed directly toward the summit following a 60% slope. With the elevation, the power of our bikes was almost half of what we had at sea level. We ended up finishing the climbs wide open in second or first gear, trying to stay on the seat despite the bike jumping over stones like a crazy horse. The deep ruts being difficult to follow, we often cut through the grass to find smoother lines. Fighting against gravity and thanks to the incredible traction of these big four strokes, we finally reached the higher summit. The GPS showed us at an altitude of almost thirteen thousand feet! The cairn waiting for us proved that we were not the only insane people to climb out there. The view was indeed astonishing and all the efforts of the day were immediately forgotten. All around, on an unlimited 360° panorama, there was nothing other than mountains, forests, valleys, and a beautiful but menacing sky. Not a single plane, not a road in the horizon, no smoke from a village. We were alone on top of the world. It could have been a little bit scary, but the feeling of achievement was intense. Time for contemplation was quickly over as we needed to keep moving. So far, including the easy trails of the morning, we had only done 60 miles in 6 hours! To avoid camping in the woods, we still had one hundred and twenty more miles to go! Descending the mountain was not easy. First, the track was hard to find and, if it wasn’t for the GPS, we would have gotten lost. Everywhere the rocks were getting in our way. When finally the trail became easier to ride, the rain started again. Rushing on the gravel roads, we covered the next hundred miles in the cold and wet weather of Colorado. Unable to finish before night, we went up the last twelve thousand foot pass at 9pm, the temperature falling way below 40°F. In these conditions, starting a bonfire at the campground was the very first thing we thought about! Waking up in the morning with a light rain, we spent the last day in Colorado on mostly gravel roads, climbing to high passes while shivering under our soaked jackets. Although the landscape could have been beautiful without the foggy atmosphere, we just wanted to get out of there. Colorado is definitely a place for tough guys and being able to survive in this hostile environment was, for us, real satisfaction.
Speeding In Wyoming The journey continued through Wyoming with totally different vibes. We expected this state to be a little bit boring, plains being not as appealing as mountains. But with the sun shining on a perfect blue sky with a sandy trail in a beautiful desert, our attitude quickly changed. After the sand we had what will stay in our memory as one of our best riding experiences ever. With dirt providing an incredibly good grip and nice shaped curves on perfectly leveled dirt roads, we could ride at very high speeds with no problem. It didn’t take long before we were feeling like professional riders racing in the Baja 1000. Using the full power of our bikes, enjoying the rush of adrenaline and the noise of the wind in our ears, the ride was pure joy. The landscape was much like New Mexico, a perpetual enchantment. Colors and shapes were changing every few miles and if the ride would have lasted forever, we would have kept a big smile under our helmets. Every five minutes, an antelope jumped from the tall grass giving us a show of grace and natural beauty. It was impossible to look away from them, and if we had heard some music we would have thought that we were watching a National Geographic documentary about Africa. But we were in the mid west in the open range, a place where the cows were also present and way more dangerous than the antelopes. Indeed, as we soon discovered, they had a very slow reaction time. Looking at us until the very last second, they decided to move only when there was no time for us to brake, even at a very slow speed. Of course, they never gave us any indication of which direction they would choose. Some were going away from us while others crossed suddenly on the trail in front of our motorcycles.
Wondering who took care of the cattle, we soon had an answer when we encountered real cowboys. Riding horses and throwing their lassos to direct the cows, they were showing us that nothing had really changed here for two centuries. They still had a revolver on their side like in a western movie. Taking the time to talk with us, they were proud of their way of life and we couldn’t help but be a little bit jealous. Arriving at the campground not as tired as the other days, we added some tasks to our daily routine. Besides checking the oil level, tire pressure and putting oil on the chains, we changed the air filters. After 1700 miles, the rear tires were showing signs of serious wear, but knowing that the days ahead of us would be dry, we decided to keep the Dunlop D606s to see how many miles they could still cover. Wyoming is not only about plains and we finally arrived near Grand Teton National Park. The traffic being heavy on the road, we took the first gravel road we could find. Dusty and slippery, this backcountry road allowed us to put many miles between us and the flow of tourists in their minivans. In addition, it led us toward more remote places where we ended up riding through fields of flowers with the beautiful mountains in the background. Some single tracks here and there even allowed us to take advantage of vantage points to enjoy the view of the famous summits. The last day in the state was spent on small gravel roads crossing endless forests. The dust was more present and it was hard to decide whether it was a better option to ride side by side or to leave a big gap between the two bikes. In order to avoid a still possible collision with a pick-up truck or a cow, we opted for the second option, switching positions to avoid our air filters from getting too dirty. The sun setting on wheat fields smelled like warm bread. We shared a spectacular view with countless mule deer eating the delicate and fresh grass in the vanishing light of the ending day.
One Night In Idaho Although we didn’t spend a lot of time in Idaho, the experience was worth it. It all started when the trail went around an old rail tunnel. On one side was the century old wooden structure, and on the other, a 150 foot high cliff surrounding a raving torrent. Basically, we had to follow the ancient path of the railway, no longer visible, on a thirty-mile long and 6 foot wide straight line, cutting through a dark forest. Looking at the straight line on the GPS screen we felt like it would be a waste of time, but the experience was nothing but intense. At first, riding over 45 miles per hour on this narrow path we noticed that we had to be extremely cautious about the branches trying to catch our handlebars every few seconds. Then, we enjoyed jumping over high cattle guards while trying to avoid cows unfamiliar with motorized vehicles. We quickly realized that the gravel mound splitting the path in two parts all along the way was a deadly trap. Each time our front wheel was just touching it, we lost control of the front end, the bike starting to steer randomly while slowing down and leaning. Giving more gas to gain some traction and exit the soft gravel, we had some very close calls and some huge rushes of adrenaline. That was basically it for Idaho, but the experience is engraved forever in our memory!
Wildfires in Montana Entering Montana, we were ready to leave the blue tracks and enjoy the many red ones that were on the GPS. Unfortunately the winter flooding had destroyed the bridges leading to the technical trails and we ended up riding long stretches of gravel roads. It allowed us the time to think about all of the people working hard to maintain these back country roads, with so much dedication that there was never a big hole or a deep rut to interrupt our cruise. We also took the time to stop and meet the cyclists doing the same road as us but in reverse. It looked like there was more downhill when starting from the North side! Always eager to exchange a few words, these bikers never showed any signs of disrespect and we shared our experiences in a very friendly manner. Some of these people from all around the world, taking two months to do the trip that we were doing in 12 days, were a little bit envious of our engines. Most importantly, they told us that huge wildfires were present in some areas we planned to cross. In fact, all of the trails around Seeley Lake were closed to traffic. Staying on the pavement for several miles, we stopped one hour on the shore of the lake, watching the Canadian fire-fighting planes take the rap of some water with dexterity before dropping their charge on huge smoke clouds. That was it for the easy part, and thanks to Kevin, who planned a great route, the others stages in Montana were mostly in the forest, with a lot of narrow and technical trails. With little risk to have a front collision with a car or an ATV, we were rushing in these trails, riding as if it were an enduro race. The XRs have some racing genes and were happy to show it. Our shoulders pushed forward above the handlebars, the throttle wide open, we enjoyed exiting corners with the rear wheel sliding all the way. Safety wise, it was not the best way to ride, but it was so much fun we couldn’t help but push it more and more. With wonderful suspensions and great brakes, the XR650L let us do whatever we wanted, once again helping us feel like pro riders. We of course ended up losing our way a few times, forgetting to check the GPS while totally absorbed in the wild ride we were enjoying. But doing a few more miles on such great trails was not much of a punishment!
Reaching T he Border The very last day we rode at a way more peaceful pace. Even if the goal of a trip is usually to go from one point to another, it is the journey between these two points that is most enjoyable. Arriving close to the border made us nostalgic of the past two weeks. Riding side by side, we soaked up the views and the odors of the mountains of Montana. Canada was only a few miles away and we could stop at a lake and see that the other shore was in another country. Reaching the border, in the middle of the forest, there was no agent, no fence. Just a post in the shape of an obelisk planted in a small trench separating the two countries. At this point, we should have felt exalted, as we succeeded crossing the country border to border. But we also felt a little bit sad, as the journey was over. This odd feeling was quickly replaced by a sense of achievement. Not only did we complete it without harm, we also learned a lot along the way. We were now better riders, able to go for hours with total confidence on all kinds of slippery terrain. We even felt that we were in better shape after 12 days of riding than before the start of this adventure! We also knew how to better navigate in new territories, how to deal with high elevation and cold weather. We were better friends, as we managed to ride together during 12 days without a single argument. On the mechanical side, we didn’t learn much as the XRs had no issue. We didn’t even have to tighten the chain during the whole trip! We didn’t have a flat and we never changed tires as the Dunlop D606 could endure the whole 2500 miles. Boots, helmets and jackets were comfortable and we always felt at home on the bike. Last, but not least, the memories of all of these beautiful landscapes and the feeling of freedom we felt while riding our XRs changed us. We knew that the real adventure was at our door, and with America being so vast and beautiful, we knew there was still plenty to discover. Going back to California, the talk was sparse, but already focused on the future: What will be our next destination?
T humbs Up Such a big adventure wouldn’t have been possible without the help of all the people listed below: It all started with Jason Abbott, from American Honda, who loaned us two brand new XR650L; Chris Hardin, at IMS, who provided the 4 gallon tanks and the big Rally footpegs; Pete Day, boss of Mosko Moto, who sent us the perfect waterproof Reckless bags; Kobi Iseri and Chris Onstott, at Fox Head Inc, who dressed us up with their super comfortable gear; David Kaiser, from Renthal, who took care of the handlebars; François Carrette, who fed us with his delicious and super healthy Natti Bar; Ricochet Off Road, who protected our engines with strong aluminium skid plates; Broc Glover, at Dunlop, who provided us with the front and rear D606 tires the perfect mount for our bikes; and, last but not least, Kevin Glassett, founder of www.gpskevinadventurerides.com, who built the priceless tracks that we used on our GPS devices.
About Olivier de Vaulx
About: Romain Ducos
As a French photographer and journalist, Olivier travels all over
Being an Aerospace engineer and MTB Downhill rider, Ro-
the world. But every mile on the Continental Divide trip reminded
main was not afraid of the high speed and high elevation of
him why he chose to live in the US. “This country offers unique
Colorado. But even if it was his first motorcycle trip here on the
open landscapes with authentic people who are always ready to
Continental Divide, he couldn’t believe the freedom offered by
help. If that’s not adventure bike paradise, what is?”
our dirt-bikes. Another guy hooked in the dual sport way of life!
SEE AND BE SEEN! Performance Lighting Solutions For Every Adventure Ride www.cyclopsadventuresports.com
Story: Leonie Sinnige photos: Peter Scheltens
An off-road track of 400 miles, most of it above 13,000 feet, marked the beginning of our trip through Bolivia where we rode the Lagunas Route, a track that leads to colorful lakes filled with flamingos over desolate high plains with volcanoes on the horizon. It instantly became a highlight of our South America trip. It was followed by another adventurous destination: the Salar de Uyuni, the biggest salt plain in the world. With our bikes covered in greasy diesel to protect them from the salt, we rode across the Salar. The bright white salt crust was as smooth as perfectly new tarmac. It felt literally like “the middle of nowhere� with the flat white surface all around us as far as we could see. No scrubs, no life, just salt. A thin layer of water created a perfect reflection of the sky, a surreal view. We were heading for an island to camp, but never made it. We got lost and ended up in knee-deep salt water at a lithium mine of the Bolivian state. Their head of security was not amused and only let us go after a thorough inspection of our passports. The bikes were covered in salt when we left the Salar, but a good wash and four cans of WD40 saved them.
In Bolivia we went to school and learned Spanish. This made a big difference for the rest of the trip. Not only in Bolivia, but all the way up to Mexico, we could finally makes ourselves understood and chat to the people we met. Especially in the small towns, where you can be sure that nobody speaks English, the contact with locals gave our trip an extra dimension. In South America we mainly followed the Andes Mountains north, all the way from Chile and Argentina, through Bolivia and Peru to Ecuador and Colombia. We liked the mountain views, the curvy roads and the cooler climate. Colombia was our favorite country on the continent. The people we met were welcoming and visibly happy that their country was finally attracting tourists after all those years of bad press. We visited colonial cities and saw salsa dancing, went into the hills for fresh coffee and found a beach under the Caribbean sun.
We left South America in style on board of the ’Stahlratte’, a sailing ship with a German captain named Ludwig. With eight motorbikes on board we sailed from Colombia to Panama via the San Blas Islands, a dream destination in the Caribbean. It was the perfect start of the next leg of our journey: North America. By the time we rode through Central America it was August and our friends in Canada reported the first snow. It was clear we were not going to ride all the way up to Alaska, but even making it to Calgary before winter was a challenge. We made a plan to travel a bit quicker with longer riding days and combining maintenance stops with visiting attractions. We enjoyed the Mayan sites in Honduras and the local markets in Guatemala. Tacos and tequila were a highlight in Mexico, as was riding in Baja California where we got off the main highway to ride backcountry tracks to monasteries and hidden beaches. We crossed the border between Mexico and the US in October. In San Diego it was sunny, but further north it was already snowing. The cold weather and our limited daily budget forced us to hurry north up Highway 1, making our stay in the US very short. Although it was too short to do it justice, it did give us a great excuse to return in the future. We arrived in Calgary just before the city was covered in snow. Peter went into the garage and practically lived there for about a month to work on the bikes. In the meantime, I handled administration and especially our finances. We had been traveling for two years and our savings was almost gone. The wise thing to do was to fly home and use what was left to get started again. Maybe it was the urge for adventure or the fear of settling down, but instead we decided to spend every last penny to finish what we started: a round the world trip. We crated the bikes and flew to Asia to ride home from there.
The contrast between the cold mountain air in Calgary and the hot humid climate in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, could not have been bigger. Leaving any air-conditioned room was like walking into a wall of hot air. Our motorcycle suits were sticking to our bodies and we could understand why we were the only ones wearing them. We started our ride through Asia in the wrong direction, by taking a ferry from Malaysia to Sumatra where we spent two months touring the island. The detour was well worth it. The food was great, accommodations were cheap and the Indonesian people were crazy about motorbikes. By the time we went back to Malaysia we were professional models after posing for many pictures with our bikes. Back in Malaysia we arranged visas for the next leg of the journey and continued north through Thailand to Myanmar. This country had only recently opened its borders for travelers. Overland travelers with their own vehicle still needed a guide to accompany them. An interesting time, with the luxury of having a personal guide telling you about the country, but at the same time limiting because he decided when and where we would go. Not exactly the freedom we were used to.
Leaving Myanmar, we entered India. This felt like a different universe with its own set of social rules and definitely its own set of traffic rules. We shared the road with bikes, cars, tuk-tuks, buses, trucks and lots of cows. It was the worst traffic on the entire trip and each night in the hotel we were happy that we had made it back in one piece. India also stood out because of the great number of people. Whenever we
stopped, a group of at least 50 people surrounded our bikes taking selfies or just staring at us. I smiled or waved to say hello, but often did not get any response. Only after we mastered their special nod our hello was replied with a friendly smile. India was overwhelming and challenging, but also intriguing and exciting. We loved it and hated it at the same time.
We continued west and entered Pakistan. At that time I could never have imagined that now, after the trip, I would say that Pakistan was one of my favorite countries to travel. I had been nervous to enter the country, but we received such a warm welcome that this feeling quickly went away. Especially the Cross Route Motorcycle Travelers Club of Pakistan went out of their way to host us. On top of that, riding the Karakoram Highway through the impressive Karakoram Mountains was an experience to never forget. Instead of riding west from Pakistan, which would have been the shortest way home, we turned north to Central Asia where we toured around Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. It was an interesting mix between remainders of the former Soviet Republic and native cultural heritage. We were invited to a yurt to drink mare’s milk. We bush camped underneath starry skies, followed the old silk route to caravansaries and visited bazaars with blue-domed mosques. The riding was phenomenal, especially in Tajikistan where we used our 30-day visa to see as much of the Pamir Mountains as possible.
After the detour in Central Asia, we arrived in Iran. Upon entering the country we discovered we could only stay 14 days because our carnet the passage would soon expire- a pity because we liked Iran. We combined riding and camping in the desert with city trips to the ancient sites. What really made our trip in
Iran was meeting the very curious and friendly Iranians. Making a chat, offering tea or just welcoming us in their country, they allowed us to look past the negative publicity and see a welcoming and friendly side of Iran. We will definitely return for a second visit.
By now it was really time to go home, so from Turkey we took no more detours and crossed Europe in one straight line. We arrived in Holland two years and ten months after we had left. It was overwhelming to see our family and friends. We felt happy, proud and sad at the same time that we had now finished our trip. Realizing that, even though we were jobless and broke, we came back rich with new friends and amazing memories. It was without a doubt, the trip of multiple lifetimes. For more pictures and stories visit the Amsterdam to Anywhere website. Click here.
Cardo Systems Scala Ride By Seiji Ishii
Cardo Systems has been developing Scala Rider
also engage in one-on-one private conversations, and
motorcycle communications systems since 2004
three-way and four-way “conference calls” can be set
and the Packtalk is their latest and most advanced
up. (Examples of this would be one rider talking to two
iteration. The Packtalk introduces a new technology
other riders separately or riders/passengers talking
dubbed Dynamic Meshwork Communication; DMC
and passengers talking to each other.) Voice com-
allows riders to enter and exit the group communi-
mand can control many functions, including receiving
cation network freely, without disruption or manual
or rejecting incoming calls. The volume can self-adjust
steps. Up to 15 riders can be in the “pack,” and they
to account for speed and ambient noise and conver-
can be spread out for up
sations can happen while
to five miles. This system
simultaneously
allows riders to leave the
to music. There are a host
pack for fuel, side loops,
of other functions that the
photo opportunities, etc.,
device can perform, in-
and spontaneously rees-
cluding use as a Bluetooth
tablishes communication
intercom with select other
upon returning to range.
communication systems.
With the DMC system, each rider acts as a dynamic autonomous hub; if one rider exceeds the signal range when talking to another rider (up to a mile), the system will use a rider in between them to “leapfrog” the signal, greatly
extending
the
effective reach of each device. Although the DMC sys-
listening
I tested the Cardo Systems Scala Rider Packtalk in the deserts and forests of Oregon while dual sport riding in and around Central Texas while adventure riding. During the Oregon dual sport riding, only two units were in use; although this disallowed the use of one rider acting as a hub, the rider-to-rider communication was fine
tem is not Bluetooth based, the Packtalk uses it to
as long as there was a line of sight between riders.
connect to phones and GPS devices, allowing the
The line of sight issue presented no problems while
usual calls, navigation instructions, entertainment
crossing desert areas, but on twisty single track in
and messaging options. The system will also allow a
dense forests, communication was occasionally
passenger with a Bluetooth communications device
lost even though riders were in range. Everything
to enter the pack network, as well as an incoming
resumed as normal as soon as the line of sight reen-
caller. Passengers and riders can listen to the same
gaged. During adventure riding with three units, this
music and there is a built-in FM radio. Riders may
never happened. Spreading out on purpose exercised
TESTED
der Packtalk
ESTED
the free-flowing meshwork technology, the system seamlessly inserting a hub when required, communications undisturbed over a much larger range than would be possible without DMC. The span between riders could be tremendous, no mileage recorded, but it was impressive how far apart riders could be with no ill effects. All Bluetooth enabled functions worked as advertised; incoming calls, outgoing calls, listening to music and GPS instructions all executed smoothly via voice command or using the flat plate control panel or roller wheel. I found this combination of controls much easier to use than a series of buttons, particularly with thicker gloves used for colder conditions. Installation was simple and only took a few minutes. Cardo Systems includes all necessary components, including two styles of microphones and a charger. A Cardo SmartSet app on both Android and iOS platforms eases set up and acts as a remote control. The Dynamic Meshwork Communication system of the Cardo Systems Scala Rider Packtalk is a functional advantage to riding in groups of three or more, dynamically adjusting to keep riders in effective range and seamlessly adding them into the pack network when returning to range. This technology continually works without disrupting communication or requiring rider input. This places the Packtalk in a class of its own even without considering the plenitude of other functions the unit also does well. In short, if you are in the market for a motorcycle communication system, the Cardo Systems Scala Rider Packtalk is worth a look. MSRP: $329.95 single unit, $579.95 two pre-paired units. Go to cardosystems.com for more information.
YOUR ADVENTURE OUR PASSION At Rottweiler Performance, our focus has always been to ask the question, “How can we take these incredibly well engineered machines and creatively manipulate them into what we, as a unique consumer with personalized needs would want from a motorcycle?” That answer becomes your adventure, and our passion.
Proven Intake Systems
Exhaust Systems & Mufflers
Tuned Velocity Stacks
Tailored Plug & Play Performance Kits
Fueling Programmers & Jet Kits
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www.rottweilerperformance.com
TESTED
MSR Hubba Tour 1 TENT
Dry as a
By CHRISTOPHE NOEL
When MSR’s tent gurus set out to create a new shelter with maximum livability, they knew not to skimp on the vestibule space. The most recent addition to their line of tents wearing the Hubba name, the new Tour has a cavernous front porch and while useful for weekend warriors, was ideally designed for people living on the road for weeks, if not months on end. Although it won’t hit dealer shelves until January, I was one of a lucky few to get a chance to extensively test the Hubba Tour in both one and two-person sizes. Also available as a three-person tent, each model shares the same materials and architecture. As someone prone to travel solo, I spent the bulk of my time testing the Tour 1, a shelter I would describe affectionately as a vestibule with a small tent attached to it.
The large doors of the fly and tent canopy proved easy access.
In another tent first, a large portion of the vestibule is constructed with a swatch of 30-denier nylon flooring. After crawling through the large outer door, the floor made for an ideal place to sit and shed wet layers, or stash items I didn’t want to plunk in the dirt. Within the sleeping quarters, the large 21 sq ft. rectangular floor plan and 38 inch peak height offered plenty of elbow room and three shrouded vents in the rainfly helped reduce condensation and bolster air flow. At only 3 pounds, 15 ounces with a packed size scarcely larger than a loaf of bread, the Tour 1 is perfect for the rider with storage constraints but not willing to sacrifice interior space. Although there are lighter tents in the Hubba range, the more I use the Tour 1 the more convinced I am that there’s no place I’d rather be when a big storm blows in. MSRP: $599, Go to www.msrgear.com for more information.
bone after a 14-hour soak in a mountain storm
The most unique attribute of the new Tour series is the placement of the aluminum poles in the outer aspect of the 20-denier rainfly. The primary advantage to the exoskeletal design is the ability to simultaneously pitch the tent canopy and rainfly while never exposing the inner layer to the elements. During my first night in the Tour, an early winter storm put the dry-pitch to the test with a heavy assault of rain and grapple. In minutes I was tucked comfortably within the enormous 25 sq ft. vestibule.
Even big guys will have ample room to sprawl out.
ADVENTURE KTM CANADA
RALLY
We arrived after dark at the Silver Star resort near Kelowna, BC for the first KTM Canada west coast Rider Rally. Claudie from KTM Canada had invited us a few months ago to attend this new event, as this was not going to be like the US Rally we had attended two weeks previously. The concept behind this ride was that we would be given a GPS track and would need to pair up with a team member to navigate the day’s ride. This was not a “pin it to win it” ride, as the winner would be the team with the least number of tracking mistakes on the course. Dave from KTM Canada had laid out the tracks with waypoints so we would not be following an easy red line on my Garmin Monterra, but straight lines between the waypoints. As we were to find out a few hours later, it’s not easy to stay on the correct track when you come to a “Y” in the trail on a two-foot wide single track.
Words: Simon Cudby Photos: Simon Cudby, Cole Kirkpatrick
Chris Glaspell, my Upshift partner and I had packed a lot of gear as we were expecting some cold weather. We layered up and headed to the start line. Teams were sent off at 30-second intervals. Right out of the gate, 17A and 17B (that’s us) were struggling to follow the track as it immediately headed back through the pit area parking lot and into some windy trails behind the resort. Once we cleared the first few miles we got onto some fast double-track that had some occasional water bars crossing the trail. After hitting a couple of these at speed, I reached down to the top of the left fork leg to turn the compression clickers clockwise to stiffen the forks. Chris and I were connected with Cardo Packtalk headsets so we communicated the trail to each other, “Watch the big branch on the left” or “Big rock on the right” or “Oh shit!” There are times when hearing each other all the time is not really a good thing.
KTM CANADA
ADVENTURE RALLY
ADVENTURE KTM CANADA
RALLY
KTM CANADA
ADVENTURE RALLY
ADVENTURE KTM CANADA
RALLY
We had been on the trails for about 30 minutes when the GPS turned us left off the fire road and into the trees. This was getting real all of a sudden as we piloted our KTM 1090R’s through what can best be described as mountain bike single track. With rocks and roots and barely enough clearance on each side to squeeze our bars through, this had raised the level of challenge rapidly, along with our heart rates! I could hear Chris’s heavy breathing in my headset as we struggled to stay on two wheels. Lots of grunting and moaning later, we popped back out of the trees and were able to cool off once again because we were able to do more than two miles an hour. Our first bike drop happened in the next tight tree section. “I’m down!” said Chris, so I pulled over and walked back to help him pick the bike up. The 1090 is a big girl and takes some technique to lift it up solo. We had agreed to help each other in a spill just to make it easier to lift and get moving again. According to our taxi driver the night before, this area hadn’t seen much in the way of rain for a few months. The trails were getting pretty dusty so we kept our distance from each other. This is where our communication system worked really well as I was able to let Chris know of turns ahead. The navigation was easy for the most part, but we kept seeing other riders taking different trails than us. We figured out later that with the day’s ride being split up into three sections: R1, R2, and R3, that these riders were getting confused as these sections sometimes crossed each other.
KTM CANADA
ADVENTURE RALLY
ADVENTURE KTM CANADA
RALLY
KTM CANADA
ADVENTURE RALLY
ADVENTURE KTM CANADA
RALLY
We stopped by a lake to eat our sandwiches and to take a break after riding for a few hours. The single track/ADV bike combo had taken its toll on us, so we chilled for a while then re-mounted our 1090’s and took to the trails again. The afternoon trails were much faster and less technical so we were able to keep up a good pace, well, for a while anyway. Something didn’t feel right. I pulled over and looked at my back tire. Flat. We got help from another team to plug the sidewall gash on my rear tire but I wasn’t confident about it holding air for too long. We made it to the road and instead of going right and staying on the GPS course, we called it a day and went left into the town of Vernon to get some gas station air. The plug in the sidewall was starting to leak air as I filled it to 30psi, so we broke out the zip ties and were able to wrap them around the rim and tire to keep some pressure on the leaking plug. Full MacGyver stuff. We limped back into Silver Star and grabbed some food and a beer and bench raced with some of the other riders about the first day’s adventure. Chris had pulled a muscle in his leg sometime earlier in the day and was limping pretty good back to the hotel. Day 2: No Chris today. It was much colder as I hit the trail with KTM photographer Cole Kirkpatrick. We were trying to get out into the wilds before the official start so we could grab some photos of the riders as they came through. My GPS was acting up so I tagged along behind two other riders so I could follow the trail. We blew past a singletrack side trail and turned back onto it for a few hundred yards. Quickly we realized this was not the route and the trail was even harder than Day 1. I broke off my rear brake pedal so I headed back to the base camp to make repairs.
KTM CANADA
ADVENTURE RALLY
ADVENTURE KTM CANADA
RALLY
KTM CANADA
ADVENTURE RALLY
ADVENTURE KTM CANADA
RALLY
As I was wrenching on the pedal, Cole returned with KTM’s star riders Quinn Cody and Chris Birch. “Birchy” said, “Just ride with us mate!” in his New Zealand accent as he helped me switch out the part. A few minutes later we were back on course. It was a humbling experience to watch these guys ride off at warp speed. Quinn went by me and I watched his technique as he was standing and on the gas going into corners and steering with the throttle as the rear tire broke loose. Man, I wish I could ride like that…maybe one day! Today’s course was much faster and flowing and we covered a lot of miles at a good clip. We stopped to shoot photos along the way and as we were close to getting back to the staging area, we saw some bears ambling across the ski slope ahead of us. We stopped for a few minutes and just watched these beautiful animals just doing their thing. At the awards dinner that night we watched as a few teams received perfect scores for their navigation on the routes, and prizes and trophies were awarded. KTM Claudie did a great job on the mic and we had lots of laughs as she told some of the stories she had heard about the past few days of riding. Quinn Cody got up and talked about how this rally was much more technical than the Crested Butte KTM USA Rally a few weeks earlier. “Canada’s Rally is hard-core!” said Quinn. We agree, and we’ll see you next year! No date has been set for next year but keep an eye out for KTM Canada events on their facebook page here.
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