Upshift 20 April 2018

April 2018

Issue 20

ALL WEATHER ADVENTURE

DURBAN GTX GEAR

VARYING WEATHER SHOULDN’T STOP YOUR GREATEST ADVENTURE. COME RAIN OR SHINE, BATTLE THE ELEMENTS AND WIN THE DAY WITH CONFIDENCE IN THE DURBAN GTX GEAR. MADE EXCLUSIVELY BY ALPINESTARS, WITH WATERPROOF AND MULTILAYER VERSATILITY. AVAILABLE AT AN AUTHORIZED KTM DEALER

/ktmusa

DO NOT attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene, always wear protective safety gear and obey relevant and applicable provisions of road traffic regulations. The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected features and details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost. Accessories and apparel shown may not be available in every country.

Photo: R. Schedl

www.kiska.com

Issue 20

April 2018

nformation: These drawings contain information o Upshift. Any reproduction, or transmittal of this without expressed written consent is prohibited by partial or complete of the sord marks is prohibited ble to the full extent of the law.

April 2018

Issue 20

LOGO SHEET

THE INSIDER Get up and Go!

Cover Chris Modell Design Chris Glaspell Photography Editor Simon Cudby

INSTA-ADV

BLACK

Contributing Writers Ashley Myhre Chris Modell Egle Gerulaityte Olivier de Vaulx Seiji Ishii

PMS 021

INSTAGRAM TRAVELERS

RGB: R255 B255 G2550

RGB: R255 B80

CMYK: C40 M30 Y30 K100

CMYK: N80 Y100

GEAR

Contributing Photographers Chris Modell Tim Burke Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx www.rtwpaul.com

THE LATEST

horizontal on white

VIETNAMOTO

TREKKING Through VIETNAM

Want to advertise with us?

Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

Want to contribute to Upshift?

If you’re an experienced writer or photographer with great editorial instincts who loves finding interesting and unusual photo-related content, we want to hear from you.

WINTER IN MOAB

MUD, SNOW AND DEER horizontal on black

Contact: info@upshiftonline.com

CRETE OFFROAD

Join us on Instagram at @upshift_online

EXPLORING THE ANCIENT GREEK ISLAND

Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/upshiftonline

TESTED

KLIM BADLANDS PRO, CARLSBAD SIDI X-3, ADVENTURE 2 GORE-TEX BOOTS 23986 Aliso Creek Road P.O. Box 450 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677

vertical on black

Upshift Magazine is published monthly

by Upshift Online Inc. 2018. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

Now go and find some adventure.

vertical on white

FIRST RIDE

ROYAL ENFIELD HIMALAYAN

Get

up and Go! INSIDER: Ashley Myhre - Mosko Moto

Adventure! The word has long struck the wanderer’s fancy and now has an unmissable, palpable buzz in the motorcycle industry.

The dual-sport/ADV lineup of motorcycles is more robust than ever. Each machine engineered with a unique purpose and appeal.

The problem is, it’s creating rider paralysis: too many choices, too much obsessive planning and too little riding.

Get up and go! Use what you’ve got, as best you know how, right now. Truth be told, I don’t think I’ll ever subscribe to this unicorn, one-bike-does-it-all program – a miraculous two-wheeled machine, perfectly suited for any adventure. Bring on all the bikes, they all have purpose and smiles in them. My KTM 690 Enduro R has me smiling ear to ear these days, and it’s as close to a unicorn as I’ve ever thrown a leg over.

The obsession with acquiring, fine-tuning and outfitting the latest and greatest adventure machine can be all-consuming; a black hole that ultimately eats into your time for riding. I spend a lot of time at expos and rallies, listening to riders pour relentlessly over every ounce, material, and what they read on a forum. I often urge them to end the insanity of trying to achieve the impossible and simply ride. The next best thing will always be right around the corner, it’s impossible to make it happen before then. Sometimes, we just need to accept that our machines are good enough. Yeah, I said it.

There’s an infinite number of bike/terrain/rider/gear combinations. Any of those combinations will lead to positive outcomes if you are riding and exploring. Choose the most appropriate tools for the job and let the rest come together without sending your brain into a tailspin, or draining your time on endless what-if’s. Neither your adventure nor the bike has to be BIG to be unforgettable.

Follow

Follow

Follow

Follow

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

Follow

Follow

Follow

Follow

INSTA-ADV

EXPLORE MORE WITH THE 701 ENDUR0 0.99% APR FOR 60 MONTHS *APPLICABLE TO SELECT MODELS ONLY. SEE MICROSITE FOR FULL DETAILS.

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

Photos: Alessio Barbanti, R. Schedl

Upshift, April

1. KTM My Ride App KTM’s smartphone connectivity platform, KTM MY RIDE, available on a large number of its Street range increases in functionality for 2018, with the Phone and Music functions bolstered with turn-by-turn navigation and route planning, powered by a dedicated app.

Living in a connected world, KTM began introducing the possibility for users to connect their smartphones with the motorcycle in 2017. These features have been carefully designed to be intuitive to use and add to riding enjoyment, rather than distract from the road.

Next to the speedometer and rev counter display on the TFT display, KTM MY RIDE Navigation displays: • Turn-by-turn arrow icons indicating the next turn direction • Distance to the next turn • The name of the next street • Arrival time (final destination) • Distance to target (final destination) KTM MY RIDE Navigation is not only exclusive to those with 2018 machines as owners of 2017 KTM 1290 SUPER ADVENTURE S & R can also benefit by having the cost-free software upgrade installed and activated at an official KTM dealer. www.ktm.com

2. Antigravity RE-START Series Antigravity Batteries releases the all new, game-changing RE-START Series of Lithium-Ion Starter Batteries for Motorcycles and Powersports Vehicles. The new RE-START Battery, with “built-in jump starting,” makes being stranded by a dead-battery a thing of the past.

For example, if a rider left his/her lights on overnight this would normally be a dead battery emergency requiring jump-starting, push starting or assistance.

But with the new RE-START Batteries you simply press the RE-START Button located on the top of the battery, to access the Battery’s reserve energy, then start the vehicle and drive away. There will also be a Remote Key Fob Button Available which will allow the rider to trigger the RE-START feature without having to remove the seat or a fairing to access the battery.

The new RE-START Batteries are the most technologically advanced Motorcycle/Powersports batteries ever built. They are the first Lithium-Ion Powersport Battery with a full Battery Management System (BMS) that actively balances the Lithium Cells while protecting the battery from over-charge, over-discharge, and over-temperature conditions. These built-in protections make for the longest service life possible, up to 2 times the lifecycle of Lead/Acid and other Lithium Starter Batteries on the market. Applications: Sizes are available for most modern Motorcycles and Powersports Vehicles, and Race Cars. Retail Price: Prices Range from $129.99 and up. www.antigravitybatteries.com

KONA ALL NEW! CRASH SIZES XS thru XXLCRASH

REPLACEMENT motonation.com

graphics $149 | solids $139 REPLACEMENT

877.789.4940

Upshift, April

3. G-Shock 35th Anniversary Watch 2018 marks 35 years that G-SHOCK first revolutionized timekeeping with its innovative toughness back in 1983, and these new BIG BANG BLACK special models are designed to commemorate this very special event.

These basic black G-SHOCK brand models incorporate the latest in technology. They have a coating with particles mixed in that produces diffuse reflection of light, which visually suppresses color and luster. The result is truly unique and original a matte black finish that is like the nothingness existing before the birth of the universe. The shiny gold color of the back case is like the brilliant flash of the big bang. The face and the buckle button are also black, rounding out this powerful design.

The gold ion-plated case back is impressed with a 35th Anniversary logo that was created in cooperation with well-known graphic designer Eric Haze, while the band ring is decorated with a group of stars representing the number 35.

Base models are the GG-1000 MUDMASTER of the Master Of G Series, the popular GA-110 and GA-700, which have been used as the basis for a variety of different collaboration models, and the new basic GA-800. The faces of all of these models are marked with the text “SINCE 1983� to commemorate the year that the G-SHOCK first hit the market. MSRP $140.00 www.gshock.com

Upshift, April

4. Shoei Neotec II Helmet Evolved from the unrivaled, highly-acclaimed NEOTEC, the NEOTEC II boasts incredible advancements in noise-reduction technology, wind/water tight sealing, face-cover functionality, and riding comfort. Perhaps the most exciting new feature for many seasoned riders, however, is the ‘Intercom-Ready Design’, which allows the NEOTEC II to seamlessly integrate with the specially developed SENA-exclusive SRL communication system.

An every-occasion helmet with the adaptability to excel no matter where your next journey takes you, the NEOTEC II does it all with style and precision. The convenient “flip-up” versatility of a true two-in-one helmet combined with next-level aerodynamics, an internal sun shield, the Pinlock® EVO fog-resistant system, and the ability to seamlessly integrate with the all-new SENA SRL Communication System, the NEOTEC II is the pinnacle of modular helmet design for today’s hybrid motorcyclists. MSRP: $699.00 to $799.00 www.shoei-helmets.com

5. Dubya Tire Iron and Wrench Set • Includes two tire iron wrenches plus two wrench inserts • Tire iron on one end and wrench on the other end • Lightweight forged aluminum • Available for European and Japanese bikes • European set includes 10, 13, 22, 27, and 32mm sizes • Japanese set includes 10, 12, 22, 27, and 32mm sizes • MSRP: $34.95 www.dubyausa.com

6. Trilobite Rally Jacket The Rally jacket is a technical touring jacket in classic style. Absolute balance between style and safety. The 3 layer construction makes this jacket an all season piece of equipment.

• Outer Material is waxed cotton and Trilobitex.

• Trilobite Protection CE Level 2 armor in shoulders and elbows.

• Prepared for CE back protector.

• Kevlar lining inside Trilobitex®.

• 9 Pockets and large storage space at the back.

• Adjustable waist and sleeves.

• Reflective Trilobite® logo on back for added safety.

• Air intake vents on chest and sleeves, exhaust vent on back.

• Breathable Tri-Tex® membrane with 10,000 g/m2/24h • Removable Thermolite lining.

• Tri-Tex® membrane with 10,000 mm water column • MSRP: $319.00 www.motonation.com

ALPINESTARS PROTECTs TOURING

THE ANDES V2

DR Y S TA R ® JA CK E T

CONFIDENCE IN ALL-WEATHER RIDING CONDITIONS

alpinestars.com #alpinestarsprotects

Motorex Power Sy Ester-based engin performance for y

ynt 4T is a fully synthetic PAO and ne oil, the ultimate in quality and your peace of mind.

motorexusa.com

Wide Open

Than Uyen, Vietnam

Photo: Simon Cudby

2018

Wide Open

Carretera Austral-Patagonia, Chile

Photo: Tim Burke

2018

Wide Open

Moab, Utah

Photo: Olivier de Vaulx

2018

Wide Open

Dumont Dunes, California

Photo: Simon Cudby

2018

Wide Open

Chaitรกn, Chile

Photo: Tim Burke

2018

Wide Open

San Juan Mountains, Colorado

Photo: Chad de Alva

2018

PROVEN UNDER THE TOUGHEST CONDITIONS

PRO PLUS+ is an ester fortified full synthetic 4T engine oil “Built For Adventure”. For use in all motorcycle brands: HONDA, KTM, BMW, YAMAHA, TRIUMPH, KAWASAKI, SUZUKI, HUSQVARNA & more. Available in 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50 & 20W-50 Made in the USA

MaximaUSA.com

The new 2018 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. Set coordinates for the unknown.

For journeys that go beyond the GPS, you need an adventure bike that does more. One with advanced 3-mode traction control that lets you adjust to any riding surface imaginable. A first-in-its-class three-axis, five-direction Inertial Measurement Unit that feeds data to the new Motion Track ABS and Combined Braking System for predictable, optimal braking, even while cornering. And a powerful, fuel-injected 1000cc 90-degree V-Twin engine that takes you from coastal highways to rutted-and-rocky trails. The high-tech, high-mile V-Strom 1000: plan for the unexpected.

Traction Control cannot prevent loss of traction due to excessive speed when the rider enters a turn and/or applies the brakes. Neither can it prevent the front wheel from losing grip. ABS is not designed to shorten the braking distance.

Please always ride at a safe speed for road and weather conditions, including while cornering. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2018 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.

Four V-Strom models. Infinite journeys.

See the full lineup at SuzukiCycles.com

VIETNAMOTO Photos: Simon Cudby/Chris Modell Words: Simon Cudby

Sensory overload: That is the feeling when you ride a motorcycle anywhere in Vietnam. I had contacted Mr. Dong at www.inochinamotorbikestours.com to arrange a 7-day ride out of the capitol city of Hanoi and my riding buddy Chris Modell was going to join me from England for the tour.

Arriving after sleep deprivation from a thirteen hour and then an additional four hour flight, I was thinking how far this place is from Southern California and was hoping it would be worth the long distance travel of 24 hours door to door.

After clearing immigration into Hanoi, our driver made his way from the outskirts of the city into the old quarter downtown where our hotel was located. Immediately I could see there was a 10:1 ratio of bikes to cars, and really no rules when it came to road etiquette or the amount of humans you can fit on a bike.

Our first day was a recovery day as we got adjusted to the 15-hour time difference and met Mr. Dong for a pre-ride lunch. “Our goal is for you to have a great experience in Vietnam and to be safe out on the tour,� he explained. He also warned that we could expect the unexpected around every turn. Mr. Dong is in the tour business but we could tell he was very passionate about sharing his country with moto travelers, as well as helping the local economy by bringing riders to experience Vietnam.

Day 1- Hanoi to Mai Chau We left our downtown hotel on our Honda 250L bikes into the craziness that is Hanoi traffic. Our guide, Son, took the lead and we followed his lines through the maze of streets filled with motorbikes, cars, bicycles, and buses. After a gas stop to fill up for the day, we cut off the main road out of Hanoi and were soon into the countryside.

Despite moving away from the city traffic, we had to still be on high alert for other road hazards. When I say hazards I’m talking about dogs, water buffalo, cows, pigs, kids, and huge trucks barreling around blind turns. This was to be the theme for the whole week.

Heading off road into the hills, we came to a river crossing with an unfinished bridge. Looking down to the edge of the water, we saw our way across: A bamboo raft big enough for our three bikes and a ferry operator who pushed the raft back and forth all day for locals on scooters. The single track drop to the water looked a bit sketchy until we saw a guy on a scooter ride down it with a giant box on the back of his bike. You could tell this was a safety first operation as there were life jackets hanging on the rail of the raft. But Chris and I agreed that if we went into the river, we would probably sink with all of our gear on.

Climbing up and over a big scenic pass, we stopped at an overlook. Here we encountered our first group of Vietnamese tourists who thought that giant 6’3” Chris was a great novelty, and we posed for photos overlooking the valley where our first night’s stop was located. In Mai Chau we stayed in a Thai stilt homestay house next to the huge rice paddy fields and enjoyed some amazing food with the hosts. As there were some French folks there on a cycling trip, Chris put on his beret after a few Hanoi Beers and made sure to say “Bonjour” to most of them.

Day 2- Mai Chau to Phu Yen After breakfast we hit the trail through the paddy field and up into our first hillside trail. As we stopped to take photos, local farmers passed us with their cows and water buffalo. This trail was fun and challenging with our loaded down Hondas, and the dirt was hard pack with a layer of dust. We were lucky that this trail was dry, as after a rainstorm the trails would be like ice. As it turns out we would experience this later in the week.

After traversing hills and valleys covered with small farms and perfectly formed rice terraces, we came to a 10km section of trail covered with rocks. Chris and I kept our speed and Son waved us on in front of him as he was on a smaller 125cc bike with less suspension travel. Even at the top of these high passes we came across kids walking their cows between villages. The kids of Vietnam just loved seeing us on our dirt bikes and without fail, we got big smiles and waves as we rode by.

Before lunch I followed Chris across a suspension bridge with wooden planks. I was standing on the pegs with my Rylo camera turned as I followed, then the bridge started to swing side to side and I had a bit of a moment as I was weaving left and right trying to keep my balance. Note to self: leave a bigger gap to Chris and sit down on the bike when crossing these small bridges.

After lunch we crossed the Da River on an actual ferry, and soon took a break from the ride next to a paddy field.

Instantly the local kids pulled up on scooters and we gave them Upshift stickers to put on their bikes; they were all smiles. We continued on a windy paved road skirting the river bank. Even though it was Sunday, the fields were buzzing with activity as the farmers tended their fields and animals. The town of Phu Yen was quite utilitarian and modern compared to the landscape we had ridden that day, with lots of new construction. We enjoyed another evening of delicious food at a local restaurant with great hosts. Chris was more adventurous with his food choices than I was, basically trying anything on the menu.

Over dinner we met some Aussie riders who were on a three week tour from the north to the south of Vietnam.

According to Son, many of his guided trips are with riders from Australia.

Day 3- Phu Yen to Than Uyen On our first day of slight rain on slick roads, Chris said through our Sena headsets, “This is not the day to be Francis Rossi!” I asked him who that was and eventually figured out he was talking about Moto GP legend Valentino Rossi. Our Sena headsets provided not only many humorous comments between the two of us but were also helpful with one-word road warnings such as: “Pig!” or “Cow!” We layered up with our thin waterproof jackets to stay dry as we headed up a high mountain pass. We broke through the clouds to some stunning views over the valley below then took a side dirt trail to reach the summit. The rain had made the trails very slick but our off road detour provided some good, challenging and fun riding in the mud.

Our hotel in Than Uyen was very comfortable, and after a shower we walked into the small town nearby for another great dinner with our guide Son. It was pure comedy watching the local’s reaction to “too tall” Chris as we wandered into town. The reactions ranged from pointing and smiling to looks of just plain confusion. Son had said earlier that day, “He’s too big!”

Day 4- Than Uyen to Sapa We awoke to black clouds that quickly became horizontal rain. Son rounded up some plastic pants in town as we only had waterproof tops. These were the top of the line purple kind that cost us a dollar each! Once we were on the road, the skies cleared almost straight away and we pulled over to layer down. We climbed up towards the main Fansipan Mountain range over the highest road pass in Vietnam, the Tram Ton Pass. This is also a route for enormous cargo trucks who loved driving half into our lane around blind tight turns.

At a viewpoint we parked and had a look at the landscape below.

I bought a Red Bull from a vendor who had a giant smile. His store was perched on a wooden platform hanging over the side of a big drop-off; Chris’ fear of heights and questionable construction kicked in.

As we rolled into the mountain town of Sapa, we were once again dodging traffic and tourists. Sapa, about 350km from Hanoi, was once used by the French as their summer capital of North Vietnam in the early 20th century, and the scenery all around was rugged and beautiful. Chris and I walked into the busy tourist downtown and checked out the restaurants, souvenir store and the foot massage shops for all the tourists walking around the town all day. After dinner, we found a reggae bar with Son for some Hanoi Beers and watched all the visitors walking up and down the main street.

Day 5- Exploring Sapa Dropping into our first trail of the morning, I knew we were in for a challenging day. The trail was still muddy from the rain as we made our way into the lower valley. The rain had washed out part of our trail and the way up was unrideable. One at a time we pushed our bikes up a short slippery climb and found another route down the mountain.

Riding the concrete path between the rice fields, we came across more steep muddy uphill sections that took all of our skill to climb (or push). As our tires became packed with mud, traction decreased quickly until we found another concrete foot path. After a tiring day of off-road mud riding, it was back to the reggae bar for more music and beers.

Rally Raid Prod Susp ucts ensio n T ools WP AKIT Sh ocks WP AKIT Fo rks Part s

SKF S uspe nsion Ohlin s Sus TOur pens atec ion h Sus pens RE-VA ion L V I N CUST G U PGRA OM SU DES SPEN SION B UILDS

Your A n Adve swer F ntur or e Sus pens ion www.konflictmotorsports.com Call us at 425-681-5160

We take pride in every one of our customized suspension solutions.

Day 6- Sapa to Thac Ba Lake This was our longest day on the bikes with 250km of mostly pavement to cover. Our guide was great at finding some shortcuts that got us back onto dirt and the day was full of varied terrain. Thac Ba Lake is the biggest man-made lake in Vietnam and we were lucky enough to take a boat trip out on the lake with another group of riders from the US. John, Leslie and their son Max from Atlanta were also on a week-long trip. Sharing our experiences with them while cruising the lake was quite entertaining. Chris stripped down to his undies and dove overboard for a swim. Fortunately for everyone he had left his standard UK spec Speedo in his bag onshore. It turns out that our new friends were staying at the Vu Linh homestay as well. At dinner our homestay host quickly started pouring rice wine shots for everyone and yelling something that sounded like “Balls Out!� before imbibing the beverage. Needless to say that became the rallying cry for the rest of the evening. We all slept well to the sound of a million frogs out in the rice fields.

Day 7- Thac Ba to Hanoi On and off road again as we made our way back to the city along dikes between big farmland areas, our goal was to get back to Hanoi before rush hour. However, as we entered the city, the traffic was unbelievable with bikes and cars darting in every direction. There were simply no rules as far as right of way and the only thing that resembled any order were traffic lights. Rolling back up in front of our hotel we took a big sigh of relief to be off the road. Now that our trip was over, walking around that evening we were no longer cool adventure riders anymore, but just plain tourists again.

Big thanks to www.indochinamotorbiketours.com for their hospitality. These guys knew all the great spots to take us away from the main tourist areas and deep into the heart of beautiful North Vietnam.

Contact sales@indochinamotorbiketours.com for more info.

Check out our video from Vitenam on our Youtube channel.

Bikes: Honda CRF250L Gear: Fly F2 helmets, Fly Patrol jackets and pants, Sidi and Alpinestars boots, Scott and Fly goggles, Mosko Moto and Lomo bags, Nikon and Rylo cameras.

By Chris Modell

It’s the greatest debate of all time: What is the best dual sport adventure bike? Well seven days riding in Vietnam may change your opinion, it certainly did mine.

Choosing to travel on two wheels is the best way to see Vietnam as most small villages are inaccessible any other way. We were lucky enough to get a couple of Honda CRF250L bikes. These bikes were not new, in fact you could say they had been around the block more than a couple of times, but in a strange way this just made them even better.

The terrain in Vietnam ranges from paved roads, some with crater-sized potholes, to rocks, mud, water and steep mountain dirt trails. In fact it can throw just about anything at you and the little Hondas were perfect for the job. But this is where I’m going to mix it up, because it turns out that the scooter is the backbone of Vietnam, being used as the main form of transport by the majority of people. The mighty Honda Super Cub is the most common bike you see, with its white leg guards, stock skinny wheels, stock tires, three gears and 110cc motor.

I know what you are thinking, but let me tell you this bike will surprise and amaze you. On many occasions we witnessed huge loads being carried from log piles, livestock, and one guy even carrying a full size fridge freezer. And three people up is not an uncommon sight. The Cub is small and light so if you don’t have the power to get up a slick wet mountain trail, you get off and push it in gear. They are unstoppable!

These little scooters are easy to work on and in most villages they have a few small garages that can fix just about anything imaginable on these bikes. In the bigger towns, Honda has amazing show rooms all decked out and they are only too pleased to help you, as we found out when we just wanted some air for our tires.

So I put it to you that the little Honda Super Cub, having sold 100 million units worldwide, is truly the bike of the people and just may be the best all around adventure bike of all time.

You decide!

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE L

E

G

I

O

N

D U RA B L E | V E R SAT I L E | R E L I A B L E CorduraÂŽ fabrics are known to be durable, versatile, and reliable. All characteristics needed to handle off-road conditions, making CorduraÂŽ the perfect choice for our legion line.

Learn more at foxracing.com/legion

Photos and Words: Oliver de Vaulx

Winter Wonders Utah is famous for its National parks with millions of tourists visiting every summer. However, traveling during the winter allowed us to discover the state without the pressure of the crowd while taking the riding experience to a whole new level.

A few hours away from the sunny beaches of California, the rocky deserts of Utah were waiting for us. Temperatures were below 25°F but there was little snow. An off-road motorcycle trip seemed possible, and with the help of Kevin Glassett from GPSKevin, we quickly drew a perfect route across the state. Our goal was to connect Grand Canyon, Moab and Monument Valley in a one-week and a thousand mile ride.

Preparing for the Adventure The KTM 1090R and the Honda Africa Twin are well known for their off-road abilities.

Their specs are very close, the main difference being the power, the Honda with 95hp giving up 30hp to the KTM. But we were doing an off-road trip, and power doesn’t mean a lot on the dirt. Handguards already mounted on the bikes, we spent a few hours adding skid plates, large IMS ADV footpegs and Shinko E804/805 tires. Two GPS were plugged onto the batteries and mounted on the bars using the Ram mount system. Additionally, a XP-10 battery, powerful enough to charge our phones during the whole trip while keeping enough juice to start our big twins, was ordered for the trip. We then filled up our Mosko Moto saddle bags with spare gear, tools, drinks and Natti bars. The bikes finally ready, we tried to figure out the best gear for the trip. Klim, with Gore-tex jackets and pants, Krios carbon helmets suitable for shields and goggles fit all the criteria. We went for a set of Badlands and Carlsbad, while two pairs of Sidi Off-road and Adventure boots were added to the kit.

Rocks of Grand Canyon Starting the bike in the freezing morning was easy with these injected engines. Waiting for the twins to warm up, we took the time to remove the Traction Control and ABS on both motorcycles. Those electronic features are perfect on the road but borderline dangerous on the dirt, and removing them each time you start the engine makes your ride safer and is worth a few lost seconds. The trails on the north side of the Grand Canyon were very rocky and offered a perfect playground to get used to our new bikes. With stiff suspension, a light feel and a very easy balance at low speed, the KTM reacted pretty much as a dual sport bike. The Honda is more on the comfy side, its softer springs allowing the Africa Twin to absorb all the impacts of the rocky sections in the greatest comfort. Both engines have more than enough power, the 1090R being very smooth while the Honda is a bit more energetic in the bottom. Despite their differences, both bikes reached the Grand Canyon at the same time. Engines were shut off and we enjoyed the silence while eating a snack and admiring the view of the twirling Colorado River. There was nobody around and it was all here for us! The second part of the day was dedicated to some serious riding, with rolling rocks and steep steps on a narrow path. It was not a trail for rookies, especially on such big bikes, but the traction of the twins was good enough to let us climb everything on our first try. Arriving at the Bar 10 Ranch, we felt like we already accomplished a true journey, and it was only the first day! A few minutes after putting our bags in the chariots used as motel rooms, we fell asleep.

Riding the Snow Eggs and bacon for breakfast, gas in the tanks, riders and bikes were full and ready to go. The map showed that the shortest way was to cut across the mountains to reach Kanab, UT. But a sign at the beginning of the trail warned us that this option was “impassable when wet.� The blue sky gave us confidence and we started riding, standing up on our large IMS footpegs and following the track on our GPS screens. The trail was dry, well maintained and seemed to go forever inviting us to go faster and faster. The Krios helmets being super quiet, it was hard to feel the speed without checking the speedometers. We tried to stay reasonable, but we nonetheless reached 90 mph in straight lines. Reaching higher altitude, the snow and the mud appeared. It was still pretty manageable, but entering the forest, the muddy sections were getting longer and deeper. Keeping the bikes in line became way more challenging. Suddenly, the Africa Twin stopped and put its rider down, one leg stuck under the bag. Luckily, we had soft luggage and the incident was more frightening than really dangerous.

With hard cases, the leg would have certainly been broken. The Honda still didn’t want to move forward, the front wheel being locked by the mud stuck in the front fender. Using our tool set we removed the fender, cleaned it and put it back. On the KTM, there was a bigger clearance. We kept going, trying to accelerate strongly on every dry section in order to clean the tires. We started to feel more confident, except that dusk was coming and we still had many miles to ride.

Night Vision To cover more ground with our headlights, we rode side by side, using the strong light of the KTM to see the dirt in front of us while the larger beam of the Honda provided a great view on the sides. Again, we rode fast, maybe too fast, not really trying to avoid the rabbits jumping in front of our tires. Going wide in a large curve, the rider of the KTM finally made one mistake: The momentum of the 1000cc engine pushed him outside of the trail and both rider and bike executed a perfect front flip into the bushes. Nobody was wounded except the rider’s pride. The crash reminded us that these powerful motorcycles are not toys and that their good suspension and efficient fairing mask the fact that speed can hurt. Finishing the ride slowly, we reached Kanab late in the night.

Infinite Riding Today we planned to ride 250 miles, which is really long knowing that the days are still short in late February. We carried a tent, just in case we couldn’t reach the town. The trail stayed at an average elevation of 7000 feet and brought us through so many different landscapes that we lost count after the first hour. It’s hard to believe how big this country is, and harder to believe that the countryside can change so quickly. We also crossed some rivers, riding on natural bridges made of thick ice. We had a blast but when we filled the tank in a tiny gas station in the middle of nowhere, we discovered that we didn’t do much of the planned mileage. This country is definitively too big and the days too short. Switching bikes, we went back on the track like racers on the Paris-Dakar rally. There were a ton of miles ahead and no shortcut. At first, we took some speed on the large trails, hitting 100 mph with ease on the gravel. The bikes were so stable we felt safe at these insane speeds! But it was not a race nor a video game, and we slowed down after a while. Cruising between 60 and 70mph, we didn’t really stop anymore, having just short breaks to take a few sips of warm coffee in the thermos or to eat a Natti bar. The engines were relentless and we kept going for hours, seeing nobody but still off-roading legally. This place is a paradise for any dirt addict!

We reached Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument at sunset, and were rewarded of our efforts by an incredible golden light.

Night Ambush After the small village of Boulder, we followed a tiny paved road heading to the famous Burr Switchback trail. It was a shortcut to reach Hanksville and the full moon helped us ride it fine. Seeing some mule deer around, we rode carefully, not exceeding 40 mph. The 1090R headlight was doing a great job illuminating the pavement, but it left the shoulder of the road in a black hole. Suddenly a huge mule deer jumped in front of the KTM, taller than the shield of the bike, blocking the way like a big furry wall. With no time to react, the impact was brutal, the sound deafening. The poor animal was thrown 30 feet away while bike and rider slid on the road. Killed instantly, the mule deer lay on his side.

The rider, well protected by the Klim gear and the Krios helmet, didn’t have anything but some bruises. His colleague, who saw it all from the cockpit of the Honda, was still shaking from fear and talked about a miracle. Things were a bit worse for the KTM, whose fairing was totally destroyed after having played the role of an airbag and absorbing most of the impact. Clutch lever and left footpeg also missing, everything else was fine. The Austrian bike was strong and could be repaired, but the trip was over for the 1090R. At this moment, lost in the middle of nowhere, the situation seemed pretty bad. But miracles were not in short supply tonight and less than two minutes after the crash, a pickup truck arrived! Kevin, the driver, volunteered to drive the broken bike and its rider to Hanksville, which meant an hour and a half of driving each way for him. This Good Samaritan was the perfect example of the helpful attitude of all the people encountered on this trip.

Riding on Mars From Hanksville, we rented a pickup truck to go down to Moab, skipping a part of our initial trip but still wanting to try this specific part of the ride. Arriving in town, we emptied our wallet to rent a small KTM EXC350F. This way the European brand was still in the game. Five minutes from downtown Moab, the trail brought us to a different planet: red and purple rocks looked like they were straight out of a documentary about Mars. The trail became more technical but the Honda easily erased the obstacles with its soft suspension. The canyon opened up to a large valley. Sandy sections made the Africa Twin feel at home, using its power and torque to let the EXC far behind. We were on the trail for a few hours now, and what looked like a very small ride when we studied the map appeared to be a day-long ride. This country was definitively too big! We finally reached “chicken corner� named after the tourists who were afraid to drive their jeeps in this narrow pass above the Colorado River. We did some tricks on the cliff with the small KTM to make a point: dual sports riders are not chicken!

John Wayne Point Last stop on our big loop, Monument Valley is only 3 hours from Moab by the highway. We unloaded the Africa Twin a few miles away from the famous park and used it to play in the sand following all the small single tracks we could find. These dusty trails were technical enough to make the challenge interesting, even if, for once, the distance was really short. In the park, motorcycles are forbidden, thanks to the bikers who stuck their Harleys in the sand during the summer. We didn’t try to cheat and we stayed on the overlook point, trying to absorb the majesty of this incredible landscape. In our mind, memories of old western movies came alive. We decided to use the small campground to camp here. We wouldn’t do it in the summer with all the tourists, but today, we were alone in one of the best camping spots on the planet. It was hard to resist! At sunset, the colors were so bright that we were close to giving up on civilization to stay here forever.

Legitimate Destination On the way back to Los Angeles, we had a few hours to kill and we used them to talk about our adventure, trying to forget about the mule deer and the destroyed KTM but instead focusing on what we learned. The incredible distances we covered in just a few days were the first good surprise of the trip. Today’s America is not as wild as it used to be but still continues to be a legitimate destination for adventurers. In term of suspension and power, our two bikes impressed us. Hard to believe that 1000cc bikes could be so versatile and so good for off-road use! Last, but not least, we learned that this adventure could have turned into a real nightmare if it wasn’t for the two of us riding together. Discovering the world is wonderful, but so much safer when you share it with a friend!

Thank you so much to…

Eric Antunes from KTM France and Tom Moen at KTM USA who managed to provide us a 1090R; Jason Abbott at Honda USA for the Africa Twin; KLIM for the Carlsbad and Badland gear that protected us from cold and injuries; Sidi whose Adventure and Off-Road boots did a great job keeping our feet warm; Shinko tires who put E804/805 tires on our bikes to keep them on the right line in all of those tough conditions; François Carrette from Natti Bar who gave us enough food to survive the cold winter temperatures; Bruno Debard who came especially from France to do this trip; Kevin Glassett (www.gpskevinadventurerides.com) who created - as usual - the perfect GPS track.

Check out Olivier’s route on the REVER app.

A L L- N E W B A D L A N D S P R O For the third generation of the iconic Badlands Pro series, we challenged ourselves and our partners to rethink the fundamental needs of adventure riders, defy convention, and build from the ground up the most innovative, exciting, and intuitive Badlands Pro yet.

THIS IS HARDWARE, NOT APPAREL.

# K L IML IF E

K L I M .C O M

Exploring moss-covered ruins of an ancient olive oil press, Paul and I suddenly realized we were being watched.

A stern Cretan priest with a long silver beard dressed in a black flowing robe and a tall, veiled orthodox hat was walking towards us, his coal-black eyes glimmering with a forbidding expression.

“Oh no, are we trespassing? How do you say ‘sorry’ in Greek? Dang, looks like there’s a fence around the ruins. We probably shouldn’t be here,” I thought uneasily as we stood there waiting for the man to approach.

Here we were, the intrepid motorcycle adventurers, the worldly travelers behaving like obnoxious tourists, trespassing and probably disturbing this old priest’s prayers. Great.

Words: Egle Gerulaityte Photos: www.rtwpaul.com, George Mazonakis, Daphne Manoussaki

“Mantarini?” The holy man winked, stretching out his hand towards us over the fence. He was offering us fresh tangerines from a little garden he was tending behind the ruins. Taken aback, we thanked him for the fruit. “Kalimera, kalimera,” the priest said, smiling and walked away.

Leaning against Paul’s bike and munching on the juicy tangerines, we couldn’t help but wonder how the whole island of Crete was just like this episode: stark and unforgiving at first sight, but full of incredibly warm and hospitable people.

The Shadow of Ida Arriving in Heraklion, a busy port and the capital of Crete in late October, we weren’t sure what to expect. While Greece has some great riding to offer, very few motorcycle travelers ever come to Crete. It’s a popular holiday and party destination in the summertime, but once the season ends the entire island goes into hibernation.

“There are so many holidaymakers here in the summer that Crete sinks into the sea about twenty feet,” a local saying goes. But once the weather cools down, Cretans are left to their own devices. Looking after their olive gardens, making cheese and honey, and enjoying endless siesta sessions in the coffee houses, the islanders take it easy during the winter.

As soon as we left Heraklion’s bastion walls, the road wound up a desolate mountain side skirting along gorges and canyons, flirting with cliff edges and twisting steadily up and around the jagged peaks of the Ida mountain range. Being a pillion passenger on my partner Paul’s Super Tenere 1200 at the time, I lounged on the back seat taking in the views. Discovering Crete in the fall was like riding through an abandoned movie set.

Completely empty save for a few pickup trucks here and there, Crete’s mountain roads ran across a vast green country dotted with minuscule white villages perched on top of cliffs and small sleepy towns nestled in lush valleys. In the South, green hills gave way to red and yellow dunes, a breeze off the coast of Africa whispering softly in the sand. In the heart of Crete, snow-capped Mount Ida, the mythical birthplace of Zeus, would loom over rocky mountain slopes, its narrow passes still guarding millennia – old secrets of defiance. In the West, forgotten legends of Samaria echoed in the wild country of the White Mountains.

“It’s incredible to have this place all to ourselves,” Paul kept saying as we traversed the island.

Some Greeks insist that Crete is enchanted. Home to Minotaur, birthplace of Zeus, Artemis, and Apollo, and a resting stop of Odysseus, Crete is surrounded by myth and legend. Although the exact origins of the island’s name are unclear, historians agree that it was most likely Homer who christened it “Crete.”

Off Road and Off the Grid Renting a small AirBnB apartment in a little village of Anogia we explored Crete day by day, on and off the road, eventually racking up over two thousand miles of breathtaking desolate vistas and quiet afternoons on an island that’s 160 miles long and 37 miles wide at its thickest part.

But while the mountain roads were spectacular, we were itching to get off the beaten path and an unexpected ally came to our aid.

Nomad shepherds are all but extinct in Europe, save for a handful of remaining Carpathian and Balkan villagers. But on the island of Crete, the tradition of free-roaming shepherds is still alive and flourishing.

“Our shepherds still graze their animals high in the mountains, make traditional sheep and goat cheese and categorically refuse to become farmers. They know the canyons and gorges of Crete better than professional mountaineers! Shepherds are held in high regard in Crete, and not just because of their way of living. During the Second World War, they were the ones that took a stand against the invading German soldiers and they were the ones who held the Ottomans off before that. Shepherds are the soul of Crete,” explained Daphne Manoussaki, a Heraklion native.

Everywhere we went, we’d spot them carrying large wooden staffs, walking alongside herds of sheep with that same, weathered smile and the strange air of freedom about them. Cretan shepherds would roam the mountains on their own time and their own route, and we’d follow. Crete is crisscrossed with an intricate system of tracks, paths and trails, most of them easily accessible by bike.

Crete has a small but vibrant adventure riding community so if you’re ever in bike trouble, don’t despair, the local Cretans are always there to help out.

The Soul of Crete Although the Tenere with both our weight was too clumsy in deep sand and on rocky single trails, Paul and I took our time exploring the Southern dunes and the Samarian passages, getting lost at the foot of Mount Ida on an expedition to find Zeus’s cave, and discovering deserted little beaches in the West, the turquoise blue of the Mediterranean glistening in the sun.

But are motorcycles really allowed anywhere in Crete?

“Anyone who loves and respects nature is our friend. Guests are always welcome!” said Pavlos Kriaras, a local shepherd who had invited us for a lamb souvlaki dinner at a kafenio, a traditional Cretan tavern.

“Hospitality is part of the code of honor in Crete, and among shepherds, it’s sacred.

We don’t have much, but we’ll share everything. That’s the Cretan way. Cheers!” Pavlos exclaimed, raising a glass of tsikoudia, local Cretan moonshine, to our health. His friend Manolis, also a shepherd, dropped by to have a drink and a gossip and before we knew it, the evening turned into a full-blown Cretan fiesta.

Most traditional Cretan shepherds will spend two to three months following their animals in utter solitude, sleeping under the stars and in traditional mitatos, small stone houses scattered across the hills.

“My father took me to the mountains when I was barely six years old. When I turned twelve, he left me there to look after the sheep alone. For the first few nights on my own, I was scared, and I cried. But the mountains season you. Now, I can’t imagine doing anything else but herding animals,” explained Pavlos.

Beware of the Sirens! Legend has it that it was off the shores of Crete that the Sirens ensnared Odysseus and his shipmates with their seductive song. Although we didn’t come across any treacherous winged maidens ourselves, Crete has definitely cast a spell on us both.

“Not just anyone can be a shepherd: your father must be Cretan, and you must have something extraordinary within yourself. It’s lonely, very lonely up there in the mountains. You’re on your feet all the time. You’re on your own all the time. If it isn’t your calling, it can become unbearable. But me, I only feel alive when I’m in the mountains. Only when you’re risking your life you can really, truly breathe freedom,” Manolis added.

Tourism is changing Crete. Grazing commons are being encroached by hotels, SPA resorts and olive plantations. Thousand-year-old cheese making recipes are being restricted by the EU regulations, and the old ways of life are slowly vanishing.

“We can’t make a good living being shepherds anymore. I keep bees; other shepherds rent their mules for tourist rides or convert their houses to small hostels just to make ends meet. Every spring, when the snow melts, we still take our animals up into the mountains, but every spring, there are less and less of us meeting in the mitatos.”

Having devoured half a lamb and emptied a few jugs of local wine and tsikoudia, the shepherds shook our hands, wished us a safe journey and, piling into their rusty old pickups with the sheepdogs sleeping on the back seats, disappeared into the night.

Making our way back to Anogia on the moonlit roads, we hoped we’d meet them again, someday, somewhere on the slopes of Ida.

Halcyon Days Freedom flows in every Cretan’s veins. The island’s history, although soaked in blood, is a tale of fierce independence.

Having endured first the Arab, then Venetian and Ottoman rule, Crete remains defiant to this day. “This is Crete first, Greece second,” the locals always say proudly, still insisting on calling Istanbul “Constantinople” and wearing black shirts, a symbol of dissent.

But at the same time, Crete is incredibly modern. Heraklion, Rethymnon and Chania, Crete’s Renaissance towns, are packed with university students using fast wi-fi at coffee shops. Heraklion’s colorful marina hosts elegant private yachts and speedboats, and a vibrant Cretan middle class enjoys a rich arts and culture scene throughout the island.

Tethering the Tenere down in the enormous belly of a Sicily-bound ferry in January, we headed for the main deck to catch the last glimpse of Crete. As the bright blue Mediterranean waves lapped at the docks and seagulls cried their farewells, we realized this wasn’t a goodbye. Crete had won our hearts and our imagination.

TESTED

BY OLIVIER DE VAUL X

Sidi X-3 and Adven t ure 2 G ore-T E X boo t s Italian Comfort Founded in the 60’s, the Italian company Sidi started with cycling shoes before extending its lineup with motorcycle boots.

Always on the edge of innovation, trying to keep the products as light as possible, the European designers work closely with top riders like the nine time World MX Champion Tony Cairoli. ADV travelers wanting to experience the Italian quality can choose between the Sidi X-3 SRS and the Adventure 2 Gore, two models that have their own design and strength.

Motocross Genes The X-3 comes in 4 colors and looks exactly like a motocross boot with a replaceable SRS sole, the Flex system over the ankle and 4 adjustable buckles. As the boots are surprisingly light and flexible, they nonetheless suit all the needs of an enduro rider who wants to be able to walk in tricky sections or to push his bike. The design of the sole offers some grip to walk on rocks, but is far from being efficient on slippery surfaces. But knowing that you can replace it using a screw driver is a plus, especially since there are other designs available, some being more enduro-oriented.

During the long rides, the microfibre suede insert on the calf helps to squeeze the motorcycle with the legs, and the sole is firm enough to let you stand up on the footpegs without noticing any flex. The metallic buckles are easy to clip and the big velcro on top does a good job preventing the dust and small gravel to enter the boot. The plastic reinforcement on the inner side helps to shift up while the metallic insert hidden up front prevents the toes from being injured in case of an impact against a rock. During our trip in Utah, the tibial protection proved to be an efficient shield and we were pleased to see that, despite countless hours spent on the bike, the sole was still like new with no marks at all. MSRP: $325.00 www.motonation.com

SIDI Adventure 2 Gore-TEX boots All purpose boot The Adventure 2 Gore boots take a totally different approach. Here, the Italian designers were trying to provide a boot you can use for a long walk, comfortable enough to be used during long days of riding stand up and being forgotten when you arrive in town. The sole is designed as one of a hiking shoe, but is so solid that we didn’t see any wear after our week long trip in Utah. The boot itself is covered by microfiber and suede leather, giving it an almost casual look. The Gore-Tex construction gives the Adventure 2 Gore some waterproof capabilities while letting your foot breathe, making it the perfect companion on cold as well as hot days. The plastic inserts on the inner side of the foot did a great job helping with the shifter, while the front is reinforced like a work shoe, preventing toe injuries in case of an impact. The Flex system offers freedom of movement but also protects the ankle, a feature we could test after a crash in the mud where we were stuck under the bike. Without this extra-protection, the rider’s ankle would have been crushed. Additionally, the two metallic buckles proved to be sufficient in maintaining boot closure during our whole trip while the big velcro on top made the boot super fast and easy to close.

Additionally, the upper portion of the boot is very thin, making it easy to cover up with pants. All these qualities make the Adventure 2 Gore boot one of the best choices for travelers, especially since the sizes range from 39 to 50, making it easy for everybody to find the perfect fit.

MSRP: $495.00 www.motonation.com

SIDI Adventure 2 Gore-TEX boots

YOUR ADVENTURE OUR PASSION At Rottweiler Performance, our focus has always been to ask the question, “How can we take these incredibly well engineered machines and creatively manipulate them into what we, as a unique consumer with personalized needs would want from a motorcycle?” That answer becomes your adventure, and our passion.

Proven Intake Systems

Exhaust Systems & Mufflers

Tuned Velocity Stacks

Tailored Plug & Play Performance Kits

Fueling Programmers & Jet Kits

Huge Line of KTM Aftermarket Accessories

2015

2016

2017

BEST VENDOR

BEST VENDOR

BEST VENDOR

ADVENTURE RIDER RALLY

ADVENTURE RIDER RALLY

ADVENTURE RIDER RALLY

www.rottweilerperformance.com

TESTED

BY OLIVIER DE VAUL X

KLIM: BADLANDS PRO, CARLSBAD American Armor Adventure riders packing for long expeditions always try to anticipate the large range of conditions they will encounter. With their Gore-Tex construction, the Carlsbad and Badlands Pro are using 3 high technological layers to be the most versatile possible, being as good to protect from the wind and the rain than to help dissipate the body heat. But ADV riders also need to protect themselves from unexpected hazards. That’s why, besides the water resistant zippers and all of the useful pockets, Klim engineers reinforced the shoulders and elbows with abrasion resistant materials like SuperFabric and added D30 removable pads in the back and over the joints. Designed in a soft material, these protections have the ability to spread and absorb the impacts better than traditional hard surfaces.

KLIM BADLANDS PRO Being the top of the line, the Badlands Pro comes with all the technology Klim could put in. It’s hard to count all the pockets and vents, but the weight of the jacket is immediately noticeable. The big D30 pads are partly responsible, even if vent holes are drilled in their surface. The Badlands is heavy but brings confidence like armor. You just don’t want to carry a backpack in addition to this jacket! On the bike, standing up or seated, the ergonomics are perfect and moving is easy, thanks to the pre-curved arms. The Badlands protects from the cold, even when there’s snow under your knobbies and the temperatures are dropping down. Under a warm sunny sky, the ventilated areas, covered by mesh fabric, help to evacuate the heat and you don’t even need to open the front zipper. The pants, easy to put on over the boots or to tighten on the hips, felt heavy and rigid at first, especially with the big knee pads. But the protection on the internal side of the knee protected the skin from the friction when squeezing the bike during our 10- hour riding days. The anti-moisture mesh inside the jacket and the pant was surprisingly efficient, and during our whole trip in Utah we never smelled any suspicious odor. Made for tough guys riding in hard conditions, the Badlands was the versatile armor we always dreamed to have. MSRP: $999.99 to $1,029.99 (jacket); $699.99 to $719.99 (pants) www.klim.com

Construction: Gore-Tex, Superfabric, Karbonite Layers: 3 integrated layers Pockets: 13, waterproof Vents: 8 with zips and mesh Pads: D30 with vent holes located in shoulder, elbow, back, hips, knees Reflective panels: 3M Scotchlite Colors: 5 colors Kidney belt: Yes Fasteners: Velcro Sizes: SM, MD, LG, XL, 2X, 3X

KLIM CARLSBAD The Carlsbad, named after a coastal town of Southern California, seems pretty light in direct comparison. However, waterproof zippers, Gore-Tex construction, anti-moisture mesh and smaller D30 pads are included. There are enough pockets to hide your wallet and phone and a lot of vents in strategic locations. With smaller pads and less reinforced panels on the shoulder, the jacket lets you move more freely and will suit the riders who want to ride in more technical sections or walk around to take pictures. Despite its light weight, the Carlsbad protects perfectly from the wind and the cold, even at high speed on the road. Of course, you’ll have to add some layers when the temperature drops but you won’t have any issue with the sweat when it’s hot outside, thanks to the Gore-Tex technology. We would have enjoyed a higher collar though, in order to protect the neck from the wind. We used a buff to compensate, but it could have been better to have a protection up to the bottom of the helmet. The pants, with pads on the hips and knees, fit perfectly thanks to the adjustable belts on the side, and were easy to put on the boots. MSRP: $549.99 to $609.99 (jacket); $489.99 to $519.99 (pants) www.klim.com

Construction: Gore-Tex, Karbonite Layers: 3 integrated layers Pockets: 9, waterproof Vents: 6 with zips and mesh Pads: D30 located in shoulder, elbow, back,

hips, knees Reflective panels: 3M Scotchlite Colors: 5 colors Kidney belt: Yes Fasteners: Velcro Sizes: SM, MD, LG, XL, 2X, 3X

Royal Enfield-Himalayan Where Does a $4500 Adventure Bike Fit? Words: Seiji Ishii Photos: Royal Enfield

Readers of Upshift Online ravenously consume words and images of high-end adventure bikes transporting their lucky owners through exotic locales in far-flung corners of the globe – and understandably so. These stories spark dreams, but execution requires advanced skills, experience, and finances to pilot such bikes to envious destinations. Royal Enfield just launched the Himalayan in North America, and with an MSRP of $4499, it is clearly not one of these upper-tier machines. Does it have a place in these pages?

Royal Enfield North America lobbied for two years to bring the Himalayan to our shores. The bike had been accessing the back roads surrounding the Himalayas and through the nation’s countryside during that time. The 411cc single cylinder, SOHC, electronically fuel injected, air-cooled motor puts out a claimed 24.5 bhp and 23.6 ft/lbs of torque. These numbers don’t scream performance and one can wonder why Royal Enfield would tag this as an adventure bike. But, the low price demands attention.

Maybe there is a place for the unassuming Himalayan.

Royal Enfield North America launched the Himalayan in early March at a multi-use dirt based complex in rural Texas. Initially, we took our choice of Himalayan (offered in Granite and Snow colors) to the winding and often uneven country pavement surrounding the 1,000-acre property. I immediately noticed the lack of vibration that I anticipated from a single cylinder powerplant; the motor was unexpectedly smooth. Did it blow my hair back? No. The lack of power worried me when merging on to freeways full of semi trucks, but once up to speed, the motor efficiently cruised at 55-65 mph and I was able to see 75 mph. Both front and rear brakes had a vague feel and required heavy pressure to achieve rapid deceleration. The suspension felt undersprung for my 165+ pound weight when crossing dips and transitioning on or off steep rises. At 6-feet tall, I found the upright riding position relaxing and comfortable and the 5-speed transmission shifted predictably with light boot pressure. The combination analog/digital instrument panel was more than adequate, clearly displaying pertinent information.

The windscreen did a fair job of shielding me from wind at highway speeds, and a four-gallon tank should provide a long range. Nothing a stand out, but nothing glaringly wrong. My road session conclusion was that it was a practical and affordable means of transportation.

I predicted that the next dirt oriented session would diminish the grin factor due to the lack of performance-driven specifications. The standout physical characteristic of the Himalayan for off-road is the low seat height of 31.5 inches. The bike’s claimed weight is 421 pounds, but the mass felt low. These two characteristics, plus the tame power delivery, hinted that the Himalayan would be attractive to new motorcyclists craving the dirt. The undersprung chassis reared its head again, the 7.9 inches of front travel and 7.1 inches of rear travel quickly spent on any sizeable obstacle, g-out or downhill braking. Heavy clutch use combined with aggressive throttling didn’t produce the grunt necessary to ride with style applicable on a modern adventure bike. I had to remind myself that this isn’t the market Royal Enfield is targeting with the Himalayan. Once I got realigned with the bike’s intended use and market, I realized the ease at which it cruised dirt roads. The handling manners are calm and the slow power delivery allows relaxed off-pavement touring, again providing traits sure to appease new riders. Another noticeable mannerism in the dirt was the unusually low amount of engine braking. The Pirelli MT60 tires lacked bite in the soft stuff, pushing under any substantial load; even for a beginner, any amount of dirt riding would

call for an upgrade. Interestingly, the combined traits of the Himalayan produced helmet filling grins while flat-tracking; think of the fun to be had on a pit bike and you will get the picture. The dirt session conclusion: the Himalayan’s mild manners service the new rider well, keeping them out of trouble and allowing them a stress-free experience on dirt roads and gentle trails. More aggressive off-road riding is in the realm of bikes that come with a much higher price tag.

One thing that I adored about the Himalayan was the classic look; I thought the bike was a head turner regardless of the socio-economic status of the audience. Royal Enfield is the oldest motorcycle company in the world in continuous production; the Himalayan didn’t receive a “retro” treatment, the styling comes from heritage and all the company’s bikes, past and present, visibly carrying the same DNA. The Royal Enfield does have its share of concerning idiosyncrasies. A big one is the valve adjustment service interval: 3,000 miles, the same as the oil change interval. The required frequency of valve adjustments could be a deal-breaker for some.

A consolation is that the adjustment is via the simple locknut on screw method, orders of magnitude easier and faster than shim and bucket adjustment. Other curious omissions are the lack of barrel adjuster on the clutch perch and a precariously exposed oil cooler. Fit and finish are reflective of a sub $5,000 price tag, that is to say, not horrible but not great either. But there are unexpected OEM bits: a legitimate metal skid plate, a lack of readily damaged plastics, LED tail light, fore and aft dual purpose luggage rack/upper crash bars, and a center stand to ease maintenance (shame on the $10k+ bikes without one).

So, where does the Royal Enfield Himalayan stand? All the readers of Upshift Online at one time were motorcycling novices, and many were not in a financial position to purchase the bikes customarily found on these pages. Maybe the reason to ride had nothing to do with pursuing adventures; the motorcycle was a utilitarian, yet fun means of transportation. Riding was a simple joy, unencumbered by complicated machinery and electronics. Maybe tinkering on the bike with a beer in hand is a sweet memory.

Speed and status weren’t considerations, cruising lazily with friends or unwinding solo the prize of the day. These reasons are why the Himalayan deserves a spot on these pages and in adventure riding; to provide an approachable entry point to a pastime that still enamors us today.

SEE AND BE SEEN! Performance Lighting Solutions For Every Adventure Ride www.cyclopsadventuresports.com