May 2018
Issue 21
ALL WEATHER ADVENTURE
DURBAN GTX GEAR
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DO NOT attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene, always wear protective safety gear and obey relevant and applicable provisions of road traffic regulations. The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected features and details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost. Accessories and apparel shown may not be available in every country.
Photo: R. Schedl
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Issue 21 MAY 2018
nformation: These drawings contain information o Upshift. Any reproduction, or transmittal of this without expressed written consent is prohibited by partial or complete of the sord marks is prohibited ble to the full extent of the law.
May 2018
Issue 21
LOGO SHEET
THE INSIDER TIME’S UP
Cover: Simon Cudby Rider: Ivan Tedesco
INSTA-ADV
Design Chris Glaspell
INSTAGRAM TRAVELERS
Photography Editor Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Tim Burke Olivier de Vaulx Jon Florea Jerry Fouts Andrew Glaspell Spencer Hill Seiji Ishii Ashley Myhre Adam Waheed Contributing Photographers Tim Burke Olivier de Vaulx Andrew Glaspell Spencer Hill Ana Hogas Want to advertise with us? Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com
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UPSHIFT HEADS TO Caliente
WINTER ESCAPE TO AFRICA JON & ANA AKA INTO THE WORLD
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7TH ANNUAL ALT RIDER ADVENTURE RIDE
Contact: info@upshiftonline.com
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Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2018. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements. Now go and find some adventure.
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SOUTH AMERICA PT. 2 TIm BURKE CHECKS IN FROM PERU
FIRST RIDE BMW G 310 GS
Photo: Peter Scheltens
’ TIME S UP INSIDER: Ashley Myhre - Mosko Moto
I don’t know about you, but I have always thought of time as an elusive and somewhat mysterious concept. I’ll refrain from delving into Einstein’s theory of relativity and get right to the point: Time is arguably the most precious commodity and it is finite. I am a sensation-seeking individual who values peak experiences. I am continually stunned at how many riders subscribe to the idea that extended international moto trips are the exclusive domain of the rich or retired. It’s simply not true. In fact, it IS possible to see the world on a motorcycle – no matter your budget, without quitting your job. Many, if not most of us are unable to take a year or several years to travel the world on our motorcycle. But what about an alternative? One month(ish) at a time; you can explore any corner of the world you desire. So pull up a map, pick a spot on the globe and grab your helmet. 1. Buy a round-trip ticket 2. Obtain a visa (if need be) 3. Withdraw 3K and shove it in your pocket Don’t get mired in the details of how the trip will unfold, what two wheels will be beneath you, or where exactly your route should lead. These unknowns are an integral element of the adventure of it all and will only enliven your experience. The truth is, there is always a reason not to go, but if you too desire these types of peak experiences you must foster them. They don’t happen by accident. So take your time, it’s right now.
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EXPLORE MORE WITH THE 701 ENDUR0 0.99% APR FOR 60 MONTHS *APPLICABLE TO SELECT MODELS ONLY. SEE MICROSITE FOR FULL DETAILS.
Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.
Photos: Alessio Barbanti, R. Schedl
Upshift, May
1. Wolf and Grizzly M1 Grill Kit Enjoy delicious grilled food wherever your adventures take you with the Wolf and Grizzly M1 Grill Kit. The kit has everything you need to get a fire going and cook your food to perfection. The M1 Grill includes an ultra-compact stainless steel grill. The frame and surface have plenty of space for burgers, buns, and even some veggies. Plus, the frame design allows the grill to sit above a fire with ease for the perfect amount of char. In addition, the M1 Grill sets up in just seconds to satisfy your hunger in no time. The height-adjustable design is made to work with any fire source and setup that you have. The kit also comes with a fire starter to get things going quickly and easily. When you’re done, you can use the included cleaning tool. When it’s time to go, the M1 Grill collapses down for effortless carrying. Complete kit weight (includes items 1-5): approx. 1.25 kg. The kit includes; WG Grill (frame and surface), Premium Carrying Case, WG Fire starter Tool, Cleaning Tool, Drying Cloth. MSRP: $109.00 www.wolfandgrizzly.com
2. KTM 1290R Pillion Ergo Heated Seat • The 3D structural mesh special foam with inbuilt tunnel ensures even pressure distribution and this enhances the seat comfort
• The optimized shape provides increased leg room and improved contact with the motorcycle
• Seat height +15 mm • Simple assembly • Switch kit included for passenger seat heating • Seat heating; adjustable in three levels, rapid heat output and long service life due to Kevlar heating element
• MSRP: $369.99 www.ktm.com/powerparts
3. New Motoz Tractionator Desert H/T Sizes For The Adventure Bikes Designed to handle hard terrain, fast rocky fire trails, gravel roads and desert hard pack with sandy variations. Its unique tread design handles off camber sections, ruts, hard braking at extreme lean angles. All Tractionator Desert H/Ts are intended for intermediate-hard terrain and rally use, and cross over into adventure use very well. They offer long wear life and excellent traction in varied terrain. Therefore they are like a special desert race tire without the expense. As a result they excel in high speed wide open throttle cornering, deceleration/ engine braking into fast corners, fast rocky trails and multi day rides where long tire wear is essential. This off road tire is built very tough and has our endurance proven natural rubber rich compound for long distance mileage. DOT Homologated. 90/90-21 (tubeless) 54 Q TL p/n 09-090-090-21 MSRP $100.99 150/70B18 (tubeless) 70 Q TL p/n 09-150-070-18 MSRP $190.99 www.pacificpowersports.com
Upshift, May
4. Good To-Go: Fueling Adventures The tides are changing and many of us are expecting better tasting, healthier meals, whether we’re heading into the backcountry, on a road trip, or to the far reaches of the globe. Good To-Go was created to elevate expectations of what prepared meals can taste like. Using healthy ingredients you can actually recognize and pronounce, with no preservatives, Good To-Go’s dehydrated gourmet meals are not just satisfying, but created with performance and flavor in mind. Good To-Go meals are packed in single and double serving portions, and are comparable to others on the market when it comes to prices: $6.75 for a single serving, and $11.50 for the double serving. They are lightweight and easy to make: just add boiling water and wait the allotted time. If you wanted to add in a pouch of chicken or tuna, you could easily get away with that, although a single serving portion is more than enough to fill me up. Each single serving pouch weighs 3.5 to 5 ounces before rehydrating, which makes them very packable. If you were going out on a long adventure you could very easily pack 28 of these things, have enough to eat for four meals a day, and still have it weigh less than 9 pounds. www.goodto-go.com Photo: Brian Threlkeld
5. Kriega OS-Base The new OS-BASE is the latest addition to the range. An innovative modular pannier system that fits virtually any trail, enduro or dual sport bike without the need for metal pannier frames. The OS-BASE is an ‘over the seat harness’ which allows OS-6, OS-12 or OS-18 ADVENTURE PACKS to be mounted as panniers. The modular design enables you to modify your luggage set-up to suit your ride - from a day’s single track to longer adventure trips. By adding an additional OS-ADVENTURE PACK as a top bag, you have a possible 100% waterproof, highly durable carrying capacity of up to 54 litres. The flexible design of the OS-BASE also enables you to mount earlier model Overlander 15 packs as panniers, US-DRYPACKS as top bags and includes ‘Loop Mounts’ to attach a tent or sleeping mat. After the initial set-up, it’s quick and easy to put on and take off and the heavy-duty hypalon construction with a semi rigid polypropylene core is very stable and lightweight. The unique OS-RACK LOOP mounting system,* provides a very tough and reliable solution to the demands of off-road luggage carrying. *Includes 2 x OS-RACK LOOPS which require 2 x 6mm holes drilled in the rear fender for fitting. MRRP: $99.00 www.kriega.us
A L L- N E W B A D L A N D S P R O For the third generation of the iconic Badlands Pro series, we challenged ourselves and our partners to rethink the fundamental needs of adventure riders, defy convention, and build from the ground up the most innovative, exciting, and intuitive Badlands Pro yet.
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Upshift, May
6. Motorex Racing Fork Oils for KTM and Husqvarna Motorcycles WP Performance Systems looked to Motorex for oil for the advanced forks used by KTM and Husqvarna Motorcycles and Motorex answered the call with the new 4W viscosity oil. Thanks to innovative chemistry, the new Motorex Racing Fork Oils provide new suspension tuning technology. Fork oils have to meet a wide range of requirements aside from optimum impact and vibration absorption without starting to foam and fade. They also need to reliably prevent corrosion and protect the seals. With its new Racing Fork Oil, Motorex supplies a whole range of fork oils in finely graduated viscosities setting completely new performance standards. By way of selective changes in the oil’s molecular structure, the Motorex research and development department in Langenthal, Switzerland optimized and balanced the very characteristics that help a suspension system deliver optimum performance and feedback. The special molecular structure of the oil ensures that impact forces are no longer diverted along a zig-zag path like an accordion, but through a multi-level three-dimensional molecular grid structure instead. The Motorex 3D Response Technology takes its name from this three-dimensional structure of the new molecular composition. Key fork oil qualities include: the lowest possible friction coefficients to let the fork stanchions glide smoothly and achieve a sensitive response through minimal breakaway torque, optimum air and oil separation performance which is critical in minimizing foaming, and maximum thermal and shear stability to avoid viscosity degradation. MSRP: $20.99 for 1 liter bottle. www.motorex.com
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Wide Open
Paulo Goncalves - Merzouga Rally
Monster Energy Honda Team
2018
Wide Open
Chalรกn, Peru
Photo: Tim Burke
2018
Wide Open
Andrew Short - Merzouga Rally
Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing
2018
Wide Open
Monument Valley, Utah
Photo: Olivier de Vaulx
2018
Wide Open
Contabane, Guinea-Bissau
Photo: Ana Hogas
2018
STAY AUTHENTIC WITH ECSTAR SUZUKI GENUINE OILS W hether you’re on the open road or exploring an unbeaten p ath, ECSTAR Suzuki G enuine Oil gives your V-Strom the performanc e it needs so that you can focus on the adventure ahead. Increasing engine performance, throttle response, and fuel efficiency, ECSTAR is the only choice when it comes to high-quality lubricants specially formulated for your Suzuki motorcycle. Get ECSTAR Suzuki Genuine Oil at your authorized Suzuki dealer, or online at Store.SuzukiCycles.com. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © Suzuki Motor of America, Inc. 2018.
Wide Open
Toby Price - Merzouga Rally
Red Bull KTM Factory Racing
2018
Wide Open
Moab, Utah
Photo: Olivier de Vaulx
2018
The 2018 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. Set coordinates for the unknown. For journeys that go beyond the GPS, you need an adventure bike that does more. One with advanced 3-mode traction control that lets you adjust to any riding surface imaginable. A first-in-its-class three-axis, five-direction Inertial Measurement Unit that feeds data to the new Motion Track ABS and Combined Braking System for predictable, optimal braking, even while cornering. And a powerful, fuel-injected 1000cc 90-degree V-Twin engine that takes you from coastal highways to rutted-and-rocky trails. The high-tech, high-mile V-Strom 1000: plan for the unexpected.
Traction Control cannot prevent loss of traction due to excessive speed when the rider enters a turn and/or applies the brakes. Neither can it prevent the front wheel from losing grip. ABS is not designed to shorten the braking distance. Please always ride at a safe speed for road and weather conditions, including while cornering. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2018 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.
Four V-Strom models. Infinite journeys. See the full lineup at SuzukiCycles.com
AGAIN!
NEVADA 200 PHOTOS: SIMON CUDBY WORDS JERRY FOUTS
Somehow the 12 hour drive seems to just fade away after a great adventure, and this year’s Nevada 200 was no exception. Hanging out with old friends, trading stories, and making new stories with those who don’t know our old stories. Our drive was nothing compared to some who came as far as Vermont, Montana and other far flung places, to ride this year’s version of the Darrell Folks/ Scott Harden epic. As usual, the event provided three days of incredible trails, trees and sand washes (ugh). This year’s event would have done Casey Folks proud as the event provided some spectacular riding, as well as some “Casey and desert legend Jack Johnson” trails. And for the more adventurous, the famous Ho-Che-Jack trail- not for the faint of heart! As for me, I have done this ride four or five times and have never had it get old, always new trails and new friends to be had. The camaraderie is infectious. This event is probably the single thing that keeps the town of Caliente on the map. Being a part of the poorest County in Nevada, this town would just fade away if it wasn’t for the Nevada 200 and a few other off-road events that stage here. The Nevada 200 is a part of the fabric of this small town as is the VFW post here which provides a sign-up/breakfast/meeting hall for the event. And, as always, the most prestigious award of this event is the notorious “Whistle-(Richard)” award. Yes, it is whistle-shaped like....well you get it.... given to those unfortunate souls that happen to screw up during the event (like starting your bike in gear with the Rekluse and taking your row out!), in front of someone (like a really good friend!), that will rat them out to Scott or Darrell. Then you receive the meritorious award on Saturday night and you get to that blow (remember it’s a “whistle-(Richard)!) in front of the entire group of participants at the awards dinner. Lots of prizes, blown ACLs and sprained ankles in the Easter egg hunt that pits old worn-out riding buddies against kids and girls...the kids and girls always win!
I was fortunate to ride with legend and champion, Ivan Tedesco. Nicest guy you would ever want to meet, trying something new. Nice to see a champ staying involved and with an ear to ear grin! He even has style “scrubbing” the trail. As for me, I got away (no whistle-Richard) with trying to change a tire that still had air in it AFTER I took the valve core out...honest! Well, happy hour may have been involved, or maybe I got set up for the whistle-Richard by one of my good buddies! During the ride I tried in vain to keep up with a 701 Husky, the white beast, until he finally fell over, then I had that thing behind me for the rest of the ride, crashing THROUGH the trees. It was over too soon, again. We reluctantly left, found our way home through the extra-terrestrial highway, getting a moon burger and beer at the ALEINN....yep, it’s always an adventure and the trip never gets old. See you next year! Thanks Scott and Darryl for your time and effort putting this event together for us, and thanks for the memories, Ivan.
Ex- motocross and supercross star Ivan Tedesco joined us for this year’s ride. Upshift: Ivan, how’s the ride been so far this morning? Ivan Tedesco: It has been awesome. I’ve never really ridden too much of this off-road stuff, and it felt a little squirly at first because I haven’t been on a bigger bike. Recently I’ve been riding 250 motocross bikes, testing for Pro Circuit. So getting on a little bigger bike in the sand, it’s been fun. Upshift: We got into a sand wash at the beginning and then we found some single track that was about six inches wide. What was that like? IT: It was good when I wasn’t in the trees hitting branches! But, yeah, it’s been good. As long as I stay out of the trees, I’m having a good time. Upshift: You talked earlier about it being a lot of fun doing this because there’s no schedule, and there’s no pressure or anything. What’s it like for you riding just with a group of people? IT: I think that’s the biggest thing, all these motocross track guys. Every time we ride, every time we throw our leg over a bike, it stopwatches out, and you’re being judged by everybody. Just to come ride with your buddies and have a good time that’s what this is all about especially now that I’m getting older and don’t really want to compete like that anymore. This is what it’s all about. Upshift: You’re on a KTM 500 EXC street-legal dual sport. What’s that bike like? IT: It’s actually been really cool. I’ve never really ridden something like that. Definitely the suspension is a lot softer than, say, my normal motocross bike which took me a little bit to get used to, but once I kind of figured out the bike, it actually works better. I would say that’s what it’s made for with square-edged bumps and stuff. It soaks everything up. It’s not beating you up like a motocross bike would, so it’s more comfortable on an all day ride. Upshift: You haven’t done any big jumps today yet then? IT: No, no. Maybe I got a couple of feet of air!
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We caught up with the Nevada 200 ride organizer Scot Harden at the lunch stop on day 2 of this year’s event. Upshift: Scott, this year the weather’s significantly different than last year. Much nicer. Tell us a little bit about the trail that we’ve been on today and what we’ve got coming up for the afternoon. Scot Harden: We’re on day two of the Nevada 200 and we’ve tried something new this year where we have a common course for both the A and C ride, but with some splits that give the C riders a little bit of a break. Our whole plan worked really well because we wanted to get everybody to lunch at the same time. We really saved the single track, our best stuff for this part of the ride. Even on the other days, trails are good, but a lot of the best of the single track we have is to get us to lunch here and then after lunch, getting back. And everything worked out great as we have both groups here, the bulk of both rides showed up about the same time. Everybody’s here having lunch. Normally, we’re freezing our asses off here and standing in snow and with fires and chattering and can’t wait to get on the bikes just to get back, but it’s a beautiful day here. We’ve got guys out here laying under the trees and shooting the breeze. This is what the Nevada 200 is all about. Upshift: So tell us a little bit about some other off-road events that you’re doing these days. SH: Well, this is it for now, I just do this event. I used to do the Nevada Rally experience. Casey Folks and I did that for four years, and it was a simulated Dakar Rally. Not competitive, but guys rode it hard. We did that for four years, and we had a great time with it. I’ve got so many other projects that I’m working on: commercial projects for Best in the Desert, Tropos Technologies, and my own little stuff for different companies. I’m doing product testing for Shinko Tires and a lot of different companies. So I’m full and right now this is all I can handle. Although, I will say that Darrel Folks and I are talking about doing a fall event similar to this down the road. And whether it’s for adventure bikes or UTVs or some other thing, we’re thinking about doing something up here. We love this area in Lincoln County, Nevada. This is our home base and we know this like the back of our hands. There’s so much history here and there are so many areas to ride. There’s so much great adventure bike riding around here. When we did the Nevada Rally Experience, we had 300 mile long days. Didn’t even come close to seeing the same thing twice. Upshift: So this afternoon’s ride, is it more single-track? SH: Yes it’s more single-track, 46 miles back. About two miles down the road, we turn you onto some of the best, most flowing single-track. Second, third gear through the trees. No rocks. Sandy. Just great fun. Then we get you in the tall puck brush for a while, then more single-track. Right before the finish, the guys have a big decision to make. The C ride splits from the A ride. C ride takes you in down Rattlesnake back into town and the A ride takes you down Ho Chi Jack Trail. We used to have the Ho Chi Minh Trail on our A expert finish into Caliente, but Jack found a new canyon, so we named it Ho Chi Jack. It is a handful. I mean it’s just trials riding on your trail bike for about two miles down this thing and you keep thinking no way is this thing going to go through. It’s going to bottleneck at a waterfall or something, but it just keeps going. All you got to do is stand up on the pegs and keep your balance and just keep moving forward and eventually you’ll get there. So we’re going to finish up with Ho Chi Jack today and give them a little treat at the end. Upshift: One of our good friends, ex-motocross star Ivan Tedesco is with us on this ride, and he’s having a blast. He still goes to the motocross tracks and rides, but when he goes the stopwatches come out and it’s really competitive.
SH: He’s always going to be under the gun there. Here he’s kind of anonymous and doing the kind of riding that he wants to do, which at some point in our lives we all started doing, we rode for fun. It was all about fun and there was no other pressure. It wasn’t about winning races or anything, it was just the sheer fun that you got from riding a bike. If you race long enough and if you have a professional career, you’re successful enough, the reward at the end is you can do that again. You can go back to where you started and all it’s about is fun. You just going with your buddies, seeing new things, exploring new things. That’s what’s great about what we do. Adventure riding, dual-sport riding, trail riding: we get to go out and see places, we get to go out and explore, we get to find new stuff. That’s what’s so great about it. Upshift: Well, I know Ivan’s having a good time and we really appreciate you having us out again this year. We’re having a great time! SH: Well, thanks. I’m glad you guys from Upshift are here.
THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE L
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WOR DS: JON FLOR E A
PHOTOS: ANA HOGAS
As most riders in the northern hemisphere were readying for Christmas, all I could think of was a sunsoaked southwest sliver of Morocco, along the Tropic of Cancer, where the oldest face of Earth is exposed to the sky and where the most challenging part of Africa begins. Since touring there over 6 years ago, the place has been etched into my mind as the last of adventure and I have been obsessing to go back. My girlfriend Ana hates cold weather and loves deserts just as much as I do, so I pitched the idea: a 2up winter escape to West Africa. I unfolded the map and sketched a rough loop. We would blast through Morocco, too cold and damp to explore in winter, and focus instead on the bit from Senegal to Ghana, skirting the Gulf of Guinea till Accra, where we would take a sharp turn inland. This would be our 5th overland journey into Africa. Prepping was fast. While Ana used the iOverlander app to plan the best visa algorithm, I manufactured a simple rig for our Enduristan panniers, then mounted new Heidenau K60 Scout on the rims. My KTM 1190 ADVENTURE R Adventure was now ready to rumble. As I rode it towards Algeciras, where we would board the 2-hour ferry across the strait of Gibraltar, I decided to name it “Bulli”, in reference to the black bull silhouettes that stand on hilltops and along the roadside throughout Andalucía. I was hoping that my burly, ‘go anywhere’ bike would thrive on the rugged trails of Africa as it did on the smooth European tarmac.
From Tanger Med it was a straight line to Rabat (where we collected our Liberian visa), and then to Marrakech (for the unmissable Djemma-el-Fna, an UNESCO World Heritage extravaganza of traditional storytellers, magicians and delicious food). In Agadir we exited the excellent Moroccan highways to start our long descent south. As distances between filling stations grew larger and the view became empty of buildings, people, or any civilization, the thorny argan trees dwindled and sand finally took over. I was on my turf. With the wild coast of the Atlantic Ocean on the right, rolling dunes on the left, and zero traffic on the road, all I had to do was twist the grip and immerse myself into the feeling of being still relatively young and free. To make it to Nouakchott I needed to put in six or seven hours of riding time daily, plus some dune surfing at night in search for a bivouac. It was a deceptively difficult and incredibly fun activity, even on a bonkers bike like the 1190, but make no mistake - crossing the Western Sahara has never been easier. Access to things like ATMs and WiFi has drastically improved, the dreaded No Man’s Land is halftarred, and Mauritanian visa is now available at the border. Central Mauritania should be on anyone’s bucket list - it boasts superb offroad riding and Tuareg hospitality is second to none. To visit the ancient caravan outpost of Wadane, fallen into oblivion since salt, slaves and gold trade moved to the coast, we needed to climb from the hot plains to a rugged, Harmattan-swept plateau. Remember, if you ride away from all creature comforts, carry enough water, food, and tools, and be a good mechanic or learn the basics. On the washboard road to Chinguitti a rock slashed our tubeless tire; I patched it, but then the radiator started to leak. Luckily the Africa Eco Race rally was coming into Atar town, so we crawled to the official bivouac where I managed to TIG-weld the hole. After a couple of restful days in Terjit, an eerie oasis tucked in the folds of the Adrar mountains where condensation from the intense heat of the desert drips into shallow pools of drinkable water, I pointed the bike to Senegal. We chose to cross at Diama, via the piste that runs through Djoudj National Park, then fringes Senegal River Delta to link to Saint Louis.
The modern Senegalese capital felt like a surreal super colorful cartoon world with chaotic traffic trying to kill us all the time. Out of the buzz of Dakar, the road into the best of West Africa laid bare before us. It was an intense 8 weeks. In mellow Casamance we pitched under giant baobabs, then took a dip into Gambia. We’d heard good stuff about the next country, a Creole-speaking former Portuguese colony, but did not anticipate its beauty. Diminutive Guinea-Bissau contains many of West Africa’s last patches of virgin rainforest. A ball shriveling, teeth chattering, butt-numbing single track took us south-west to Jemberem village, the gateway to Cantanhez National Park, where we walked among ancient mangroves and phenomenal trees while Patas monkeys and chimpanzees growled from above. Riding out of Guinea-Bissau and into Guinea Conakry was nuts in every way. It started with a maze of single trails to the exit of Cantanhez, then briefly back on tarmac till Quebo town, where I refueled. I had picked the remote Contabane border post all in the name of adventure and a few hours into it I realized that ruts, bumps, cracks, and all sort of sketchy bridges would make the entire experience even more challenging than I’d thought. I also realized what an awesome idea that was. The track was one of the most exhausting and varied I’ve ever done in Africa. It switched from sand to rocks to gravel, passing plantations where barefoot men climbed 30 feet above the ground to collect palm nuts, and hamlets where elders chewed on Kola nuts on porches while bare-breasted women pounded yam with toddlers playing at their feet. I’m still mulling these jagged, baffling scenes over.
Soon after the border - literally a rope tied between two poles in the bush - we arrived at an intimidating obstacle: The Kogon River. We killed some time chatting with people who were queuing to shower in the silty water, then I saw a pirogue coming from the other side. It carried two Chinese scooters, five men, and a lot of luggage. That was our way across. I helped them unload, negotiated my price and pushed the fat KTM into the middle of the boat. A second pirogue would carry Ana and the luggage, they said. I couldn’t help the feeling that I was doing something I should not. As we started gliding, I licked my dry lips, carefully checked that the ratchet straps were properly set, and leaned to touch the water, as if to make sure that I was awake. The pirogue rocked. “Balance! Balance!” shouted the captain. I swear I didn’t take another breath until pulling safely up on the riverbank. I was stoked to have made it, but not as much as the dozen Guineans who had watched our little drama unfold. Energized by this cliffhanger, I fired up the 1190 and prepared for the next.
We knew that both of Sierra Leone and Liberia had a bad rep and a lot to offer. Founded by African-American settlers - either liberated or descendants of slaves – these two countries suffered decades of civil war before the economic boom. Then, as their population clawed out of poverty, the iron ore price collapsed and an Ebola epidemic struck, turning paradise into purgatory, once again. Today, life is resurgent. In Bureh Beach and Robertsport we discovered world-class surfing and incredible seafood, and in Freetown and Monrovia a hustle and bustle foretelling that the best of their history is yet to come. After a few peaceful days we yearned the usual staple of moto-overlanders: hot days, damp nights, numb buttocks, and filthy gear. But on a bullet-trip like ours, things don’t always work out the way we plan. They work better. While exploring Sierra Leone’s diamond-rich Kono District we happened to meet a Dutch missionary with extensive knowledge of the region. He suggested an alternate route towards east that sounded hard and potentially rewarding. This track zigzagged through a steaming swath of jungle where few villages scattered. Locals greeted us warmly each time we stopped to wring our layers out. By the time we hit the bumpiest section, with craters the size of a truck, we were properly caked from head to toe in a mix of sweat and African dirt. This was indeed hard, remote and rewarding. It must be a nightmare in the wet, I thought. And just like that, the sky turned dark and the first tropical downpour of the season made the track melt like chocolate in Bain-Marie, prompting us to duck under the roof of a school. One of the perks of traveling in Africa is that you have to be a little Zen about it. On these unpredictable roads things are not entirely under your control, but if you keep smiling and squeezing the throttle, you should eventually get to where you’re going - maybe today, maybe tomorrow, maybe the day after - worrying about it has no impact on the outcome. This laid back attitude was essential in Côte d’Ivoire. We camped in villages and passed a gazillion police checkpoints without a glitch, then switched-back up to Ghana, African country number 10.
Thanks to Instagram, we were about to learn that the story of six Ghanaians riding to Dakar and back was entirely true. We’d heard it at almost every border, and now here we were, beers in hand, laughing at the toughest bits of the road with our new Ghanaian crew. Before heading out of Accra and onto the second half of the journey I owed Bulli a bit of TLC. After 12,000 kilometers the rear rubber looked pretty toast (frankly I’d seen worse) and the poor engine had been stalling at low revs since Sierra Leone because of bad fuel. I poured some cleaner in the injection system, changed the oil, stuffed a spare fuel pump filter kit in the bag, and checked the air filter intake. It is my own design, and despite the incredibly dusty African roads it was squeaky clean, working better than an OEM, plus the extra grunt. A chain slack adjustment and a quick test ride later, the 1190 felt fresh. We were ready for whatever awaited us beyond the next bend. Check out more from Jon and Ana at intotheworld.eu
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GOLD POINT, NEVADA For its 7th edition, the Taste of Dakar 2018 was held in Gold Point, Nevada. Hosted by Alt Rider, the event was once again a huge success and proved the commitment of the adventure riders community toward the sport. If you tried to look up on the internet for previous editions of Alt Rider event “Taste of Dakar”, you might not have been rewarded by exciting search results. But Google is sometimes wrong and more than 70 riders came this year again from all over the country to meet at Gold Point, NV. The Upshift crew was also there and, after having spent two days riding in spectacular landscapes, now understand why some flew from New York to participate in the 7th edition of this event created by Alt Rider CEO Jeremy Lebreton.
Enthusiastic community As soon as Thursday night, the ghost town of Gold Point was brought back to life by the riders setting up tents and trailers, like in the old times of the gold rush. Most of them came with their bikes by the highway, which was, given the remoteness of the ghost town, a first achievement. On Friday, most of the participants took lessons with Black Swan trainers Del Christensen and Jeff Irvin about the specific skills required to ride in the sand. Needless to say that most also learned the right way to pull back the bike after a crash at slow speed. Not so many guys elsewhere in the world would accept to throw an expensive bike in the sand like that, and these American riders proved right away that they were committed to their sport! A few hours later, they were all smiles in the saloon, sharing a hot meal and a few beers. “It’s more than a ride,” explains Jeremy Lebreton. “Beside improving their riding skills during the courses they also come to meet people. It’ll be easier for them to keep riding if they have friends who ride, instead of waiting one year for the next course. Hence the stickers with their names on it.” Before the movie screenings, Jeremy also explained why it was vital that everybody fights for keeping motorcycle off-road riding his legal status; a problem shared by many developed countries all over the world and unlikely to resolve without a growing number of riders.
WORDS & PHOTOS: OLIVIER DE VAULX
A unique race If Taste of Dakar is not a race, it’s still an event inspired by the French rally, the toughest in the world. Scot Harden, who raced it in Africa in 2004 and 2005, knows it better than everybody else here. Sharing his experience during the first night presentation, he explained the commitment required to participate and finish this unique race, not counting winning. In the morning, Johnathan Edwards, doctor for the US team in the Dakar rally during many years, gave some priceless advice about nutrition: “Most of the accidents take place at the end of the day because the riders made poor decisions. It’s not exhaustion, but the direct result of bad choices in terms of nutrition. In their backpacks, the sugar is prominent while the salt, necessary to help the brain function correctly, is often absent,” explains Dr Edwards.
Epic ride Just after sunrise on Saturday, in small groups of 6, the riders started the 222 mile loop displayed on their GPS. With most of the trails being sandy or covered by soft gravel, riding these big adventure bikes of 500 pounds was going to be challenging. The first leg of the ride went by Gold Field, crossing beautiful landscape across plains and mountains, forest and desert, along with colorful old mines. By the time the last riders reached the lunch at Tonopah, after 95 miles of sand and rocks, they were already 4 hours behind the leaders. They had a very hard time but kept a good mood: The adventure was for real and they loved it! It was almost an exact replica of the long days endured by amateur racers in the rally, trying to survive while the pros were already arrived and resting. Other riders, incredibly fast on their heavy bikes, got the cherry on the cake with enough time for an additional ride in the dunes. Trying to climb these giant stacks of sand is like going wide open on a quite unstable banking. A bit scary at first, it becomes quickly addictive, especially when you realize that falling is, for once, a fun option. Elsewhere, crashing was a bad idea and a few riders finished the day with injuries. Back in Gold Point, after having crossed an amazing dry lake, everybody had incredible stories to share and a lot of new contacts to add on their smartphones. Dakar and Baja movies shown on a screen under the starry night were the final touch of a day tasting pretty much like a real rally for most of the riders.
Ready for 2019 On the way back, many rode their motorcycles on the highway, putting in some extra miles before the return to normal life. On the twirling roads crossing the Inyo Forest, they were rewarded by breath-stopping views on the snowy Sierra Nevada. Passionate and well motivated, these American riders proved that, even if the FIM charts don’t yet credit USA for a victory in the Dakar Rally, this enthusiastic community already deserves the right to lay claim to the heritage of the big race. More than a Taste of Dakar, TOD was a test for Dakar, and one of these rare gold nuggets able to fuel the passion of the whole ADV community!
Add-on: Apply for ToD 2019 Organized as a way to give back to the community by Jeremy Lebreton, Taste of Dakar fees cover just the cost of the food and trainers, Alt Rider making no profit on the event. All the info and application forms are available on their website http://www.altrider.com/events-and-rides/cid/54. You can also use the site to look for other events and riders.
ROOTS
Words & Photos by Andrew Glaspell
STARTING THE ADVENTURE - PART 1 Growing up with my family, there was one thing I couldn’t escape; that was a fascination for anything and everything on two wheels. Between a dad that had been working in the motorcycle industry since I was born, and an aunt that was a downhill mountain bike world champion, I was thrown into the world of motocross, cycling and BMX from the moment I knew what a bike was. I started mountain biking and racing BMX when I was nine years old, and found a Yamaha 50cc with a bow when I turned ten. But the motorcycle didn’t stick the way the bicycles did. My dad and I took it out a few times to the Southern California deserts, a few hours drive from our house, but mountain biking had my heart, and the 50cc soon had a different owner. Now I’m sure a majority of people probably think that I’m crazy when they hear that a 10 year old boy tossed away the chance to ride motorcycles throughout his childhood, but for a shy kid with anxiety I was much more comfortable taking my chances with something that I was already accustomed to. So I raced cross-country mountain bikes from eighth grade until college where I currently study at Oregon State University in Corvallis, OR.
ROOTS STARTING THE ADVENTURE - PART 1
This winter, despite being delayed ten years, the interest of riding motorcycles finally came to the surface. I had been watching my dad create and develop Upshift Online for over a year. Reading the content he was putting together and hearing his visions of what he and Simon Cudby were thinking of doing next, it was hard to resist the wonder of what it would be like to have an adventure bike in my own life. As a nature photographer and a student in the field of natural resources, I was intrigued by the idea of riding into the forests of western Oregon, minutes from campus, or up to the Cascades east of Corvallis. In the heart of winter term, bogged down with the stress of full-time schoolwork, I decided to do some research on which bike would be a good option for a beginner such as myself. As I searched, I found the Honda CRF 250L Rally, which from nearly every industry expert’s perspective, was the recommended machine to begin ADV riding. I chose to go with the Honda, and before I knew it, my very first adventure bike had made its way to Corvallis! By now I had discovered two challenges before me: First, I needed to have the appropriate legal documents in order to actually ride the vehicle. Second, although some technical skills may transfer over, I realized that my mountain bike experience wasn’t going to help me ride a motorcycle as much as I had thought it would.
ROOTS STARTING THE ADVENTURE - PART 1
My options for legally riding the Honda in Oregon were fairly complicated. One way in which I could get permitted to ride was to somehow get the bike down to a DMV in California (the closest being in Yreka, CA, 260 miles away) and take a motorcycle license test to add an M status to my California license. The other, much more appealing option, was to apply for an Oregon drivers license and then take a “Basic Rider Training” (BRT) course through an organization called, Team Oregon. By completing this three day, 15-hour course, the DMV waives the state’s knowledge and skills tests required to legally ride in Oregon. I chose to take this route considering that I plan to stay in Oregon after college. So I drove down to the DMV in Corvallis to get an Oregon drivers license. Little did I know, I had to take a written drivers test of 35 questions in order to successfully receive a state license change. After passing the exam and paying a small fee I had my Oregon license in hand. Now all I had to do was take the BRT course, which I have signed up to complete soon. While I waited to participate in the rider training course, my dad drove up to the Pacific Northwest to teach me some of the basics. He and I initially hoped to take my CRF 250L and his Africa Twin out to Mt. Baber OHV Park between Corvallis and Newport on highway 20, but after scouting the location we found that the trails were under construction during the winter months. We ended up taking the bikes to Mary’s Peak Recreation Area just outside of Corvallis and parked the truck on an old logging road. Once we put our gear on and locked up the truck we fired up the Africa Twin and its little brother, the Rally. My first reaction to hopping on the bike was “Dang, this thing is heavy. I really don’t want to fall over,” which is obviously the average XC mountain biker’s response to adding a couple hundred pounds to your steed. It wasn’t until riding through the thick forest mud, watching the Africa Twin sink and feeling the 250L glide, when I realized how relatively light the Rally really was. An even more prominent first-thought was that I am never going to learn this whole “clutch-thing.” After stalling a few times and failing to remember proper shifting technique, the same anxiety from ten years prior made an appearance.
Now, I am all about honesty, so to tell the truth, I was pretty overwhelmed. As a perfectionist, someone that has wrestled with anxiety all their life, and a son that just wants to be good at what his dad loves, my inability to pick up riding quickly was getting to me. Only this time, I had a decade of experiences to tell me that those fears don’t get to dictate my life, especially not what I find joy in. I talked with my dad about what was going through my head, threw my helmet on and got back on the bike. We descended down the trail for a few miles without stopping or doing any “training,” just simply riding through the trees, breathing in the cold mountain air. I was reminded that this was the reason I wanted to take up riding, and it would be worth the struggle of the learning curve. We found an amazing creek flowing from far up the mountain and took a rest. I broke out my camera to take some photos (the other reason why I desired to learn how to ride) and relaxed behind the familiarity of the lens. Standing in the creek in our waterproof Alpinestars boots, my dad and I just got to catch up and talk about all things family, school and Upshift. Jumping on the Rally one last time, I started her up and made the most seamless firstsecond-third sequence of shifts I had made thus far. With just a mile or so until we got back to the truck, that series of shifts from a stop was the best way to end the ride. We packed up and headed home, taking some photos along the way, of course. I can’t wait to keep advancing in my skills and knowledge behind the Honda CRF 250L Rally. Once I complete the BRT course in a few weeks, I’m hoping to take the bike out to the Cascades this Spring. I’m looking forward to all the future rides with my dad and getting to see even more of the Pacific Northwest. As the ADV culture begins to grow here in Oregon, I am hoping to have more young people by my side as I cultivate a passion for adventure.
ROOTS STARTING THE ADVENTURE - PART 1
ROOTS STARTING THE ADVENTURE - PART 1
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BUDDY TRACKING CONNECT UP TO 20 RIDERS PER RIDING GROUP CELL SERVICE NOT REQUIRED
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FEATURES HONDA CRF250L RALLY
Compact and sophisticated liquid-cooled DOHC 249cc single-cylinder four-stroke powerplant produces smooth and consistent torque at low rpm, plus excellent high-rpm performance.
Large fuel tank allows extensive range.
A 38mm throttle body (up 2mm from the 2016 CRF250L) combines with a revised airbox, reshaped air boot, new muffler design and a larger-diameter exhaust head pipe to provide improved response and better power in the low and midranges.
Lightweight semi-double-cradle high-tensile steel frame.
Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI). Extremely compact roller rocker arm design for the low-friction valve train allows the use of a smaller cylinder head. Gear-driven counterbalancer shaft helps reduce vibrations for rider comfort. Electric start for easy starting.
Chassis developed specifically for the CRF250L provides excellent handling and agility.
Strong 43mm inverted fork provides 11 inches of travel. Pro-Link single-shock rear suspension delivers 10.3 inches of rear-wheel travel. Tapered aluminum swingarm. Powerful wave-design 256mm front disc brake, and 220mm rear disc brake provide strong and consistent stopping power. Meter assembly, taillight and license-plate holder have all been updated for 2017.
Lightweight aluminum crankcase. Maintenance-free CD ignition.
Large floating front disc, plus ABS that can be switched off for the rear brake.
Heavy-duty clutch offers smooth, progressive engagement.
Front 21-inch wheel and 18-inch rear wheel with lightweight aluminum rims.
Smooth-shifting, versatile six-speed transmission.
New digital dash includes a fuel gauge and tachometer.
Heavy-duty O-ring–sealed chain for durability and reduced maintenance.
Durable front and rear steel sprockets.
Quiet, USDA-qualified muffler. Maintenance-free sealed battery. Rally-type “floating” screen, fairing and radiator shrouds provide wind protection, with the rest of the machine showing off minimal MX style. LED asymmetric headlights, as are the turn signals.
High-quality handlebar with comfortable grips. Transferable one-year, unlimited-mileage limited warranty; extended coverage available with a Honda Protection Plan. Meets current CARB and EPA standards. Models sold in California meet current CARB standards and may differ slightly due to emissions equipment.
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TESTED
BY SEIJI ISHII
Fasst Company Flexx Handlebars Added comfort, control and fatigue resistance for adventure and dual sport bikes. Many handlebar-based dampening products exist in the dirt bike market; some are simple, consisting of elastomer pads isolating metal-to-metal junctions, some as advanced as using a hydraulic and pneumatic system to dampen vibrations before they reach the rider’s hands and upper body. We have been testing Fasst Company Flexx Handlebars on a dual sport bike for over a year and just added them to an adventure bike. Fasst Company has been developing and refining the Flexx Handlebar system since 2001. The handlebar ends pivot in the same plane as fork travel, and separate elastomer stacks control travel in the compression and rebound directions. Fibrous bushings isolate articulating metal surfaces, quelling transfer of vibrations. Flexx Handlebars come with three sets of compression elastomers, two sets of rebound elastomers, and a bar pad. More elastomers are available from Fasstco, as are accessories to accommodate steering dampeners, hand guards, trip/ enduro computers, roll charts and GPS units. There are over 60 different combinations of overall width, midsection width, sweep and height offered (all 1 1/8” clamp diameter). The primary functional difference between the Flexx Handlebars and other handlebar-based systems is the direction of the dampening travel. The Flexx Handlebars only allow bar end travel in the same plane as fork travel. This path of movement eliminates the vague feeling that other systems can give when dampening travel can occur in multiple directions or in the axis that doesn’t match fork travel. The Flexx Handlebar moves expectedly, merely adding to the fork’s actions, and doesn’t introduce unanticipated or random motions to the handlebar. Restricting possible movement to one plane also lessens potential disruption of riding inputs put into the front of the bike. The Flexx Handlebars have endured extended use from the mountains of Colorado to the Hill Country in central Texas. The bars admirably damped vibrations across the board, but the most significant benefit was on sharp edges. The sharper the initial impact, the greater the perceived dampening benefit. Not only did this increase comfort, but it also extended the time I could ride at or near my limits and improved handling in rough sections. The longer the ride day, the more amplified the total benefit.
On multiple day rides, the advantages expanded, as I carried less upper body fatigue from day to day. I didn’t experience any adverse effects on inputs applied through the bars as long as I avoided the soft rebound elastomers. After much experimentation, on both the dual sport and adventure bikes, I returned the Flexx Handlebar elastomer stacks to their OEM configurations; medium compression with hard rebound for the dual sport bike, and hard compression with hard rebound on the adventure bike. Both bikes received a touch more preload on both elastomer stacks via their retaining hardware after the initial break-in period. One legitimate concern is the added potential for damage should the rider go down. The pivots and additional attached hardware introduce weak points for impacts compared to a solid handlebar. I had one crash during testing that twisted the Flexx bars, but it would have also bent a standard handlebar. It is difficult to speculate if a Flexx Handlebar is damaged more easily than a regular bar, but Fasst Company does offer a one-year warranty program that allows the purchase of a new replacement bar for 50% off plus shipping (you must ship your crash damaged bars to them.) There is also the added weight of a Flexx Handlebar compared to a standard bar, but my conclusion is that the extra mass is worth the improved comfort, control, and resistance to fatigue. The in-plane movement of the dampening eliminates many of the negatives inherent in other handlebar oriented systems, and the variety of bars offered aids in finding the perfect fit. Bottom line: the Fasst Company Flexx Handlebars increase the enjoyment of both dual sport and adventure riding, so to this tester, they are a worthy and permanent addition to the bikes. MSRP: $359.99 www.fasstco.com
Fasst Company Flexx Handlebars
YOUR ADVENTURE OUR PASSION At Rottweiler Performance, our focus has always been to ask the question, “How can we take these incredibly well engineered machines and creatively manipulate them into what we, as a unique consumer with personalized needs would want from a motorcycle?” That answer becomes your adventure, and our passion.
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TESTED
BY SPENCER HILL
TRAIL TECH VOYAGER PRO In the written history of off-road recreation, things will be remembered as pre-Voyager Pro and post-Voyager Pro, that’s how much this unit is going to change the way we ride. At its core, the Voyager Pro is a fully capable GPS unit, but on top of that, it offers a plethora of useful features including engine monitoring, Bluetooth management and Buddy Tracking just to name a few. What’s more impressive than the Voyager Pro’s long list of features is the fact that they work well. This can be credited to the fact that it was designed for off-road enthusiasts by off-road enthusiasts. We got our hands on one of these units pre-release and were excited to test it out over the last few months. The first thing you notice about this new offering from Trail Tech is the large color display and four simple buttons (Menu, Back, Up and Down). The title screen reads: “Adventure Begins Here” and it’s not just hubris. Scrolling through the different screens for the first time can be slightly overwhelming as it dawns on you just how many different things this unit can do. The Media, User, Satellite, Gauge Cluster, Tachometer, Map and Stop Watch screens can be enabled or disabled to your liking and represent all this device has to offer. Once you begin riding you will almost immediately notice how well the display deals with glare and how clearly it can be seen in any light or no light at all. It is noteworthy how functional the touch screen is compared to other GPS units both with gloved hands and without. It was also immediately apparent how responsive the unit was while loading maps and cycling through menus. The processing speed was perfect for quick movements on the map and loading tracks on the fly. The Voyager Pro comes out of the box ready for adventure with a powered cradle, Ram Mount or handlebar mounting options, antenna, tachometer sensor wire and preloaded with US maps. What this means is that after connecting the cradle to a keyed power source you are ready to hit the trails! With an internal battery life of approximately forty-five minutes it is almost essential to have the unit hardwired to power. Additional functions can be unlocked later with other sensors offered by Trail Tech including Engine Temperature, Wheel and External GPS.
A Micro SD card (not included) is the primary method for transferring data to and from the Voyager Pro. Considering the port is easily accessible on the side of the unit we found this method to be adequate for importing and exporting tracks as well as storing music files. Once a card is inserted with waypoints, tracks or routes they are easily accessed using the map submenu. The same goes for exporting tracks after a ride allowing you to share your adventures seamlessly. The Voyager Pro utilizes internally generated Open Street Maps “OSM� and comes preloaded with detailed maps of the United States. Several other geographical regions are available to download for free from the Trail Tech website including Canada, South America and Europe. Using this device exclusively to navigate on the trail and in the backcountry was a more natural transition than initially expected. The detailed color maps with accurate topo lines and hill shading was impressive and the lightning-fast processing speed made other GPS devices seem antiquated. You can customize map layers and loading routes or tracks is a straightforward process that can be done while riding. The only drawback that we noticed was the solely horizontal orientation of the map and screen for those that prefer a vertical (taller) view.
TRAIL TECH VOYAGER PRO For trail riding, we found that the Buddy Tracking feature was incredibly useful. Using long-range radio frequencies on a mesh network, Trail Tech created this slick component that allows up to twenty units or riders to be connected at once. So you can see all of the riders in your group: if they are stationary, which direction they went and who they are with. There’s also an “Emergency Beacon” built into this system that alerts everyone else you are connected to that you are in trouble. Trail Tech estimates the usable range of this system at only half a mile to a mile and a half, but with the mesh network and several units digitally daisy chained we got much better results. The Buddy Tracking feature was one of our favorites and surely will change your trail riding experience! For adventure rides and daily commutes, the Media screen stood out as a game changer. It wrangles all of your digital indulgences in one place and does everything you could need while riding. By linking a Bluetooth headset and phone, you can make and receive calls, look through your contact list and review text messages as they come in. Using music loaded on your micro SD card or from your phone you can control playback and volume. The Voyager Pro can control two Bluetooth devices at the same time (two phones and two headsets or speakers), meaning that communication and media on two-up rides can be vastly simplified. This screen allows you to forget about the controls on your headset and phone displaying everything prominently on the Voyager Pro’s screen. In our experience, this led to safer riding habits and fewer headaches integrating devices. The other screen that we got the most mileage out of was the user configured Favorites screen. Here you can choose up to six gauges displaying everything from voltage, air temp, time, heading, stopwatch, distance to waypoint and several others. This was a great way to keep track of relevant information when we weren’t exclusively using the map screen.
TRAIL TECH VOYAGER PRO
Trail Tech got it right with this unit on everything from the rugged waterproof body (IP67 Rated) to the large touchscreen that works the way it should. Initially using the Voyager Pro was reminiscent of the first time riding with a Bluetooth headset; you get the same feeling that it’s going to change the way you ride forever. With all of the customization options, it makes for a very tailored feel and personal user experience. The only thing we thought this unit was missing to make it a completely well-rounded GPS device was turn-by-turn directions. Thankfully features like this and many other improvements can be rectified with firmware updates. Trail Tech took a giant leap into the future with the Voyager Pro and created one of the most useful pieces of technology two-wheeled travel has ever seen. If you are looking for an all-in-one GPS solution, this is the one for you. MSRP: $599.95. www.trailtech.net
PART 2 Rule 1 of driving in South America: There are no rules. Everything that you thought you knew about rules, crumple it up and toss it in the nearest trash receptacle! It’s one man for himself out here. Ok, ok... I’m being a bit dramatic, but really, driving down here takes “situational awareness” to a new level. That’s what I first learned after letting the clutch out for the first time in Colombia. Everyday life is exhilarating here.
BY TIM BURKE
Wrapped in cardboard and plastic and strapped to a pallet, it was the third time that this motorcycle climbed, in an airplane, to 30,000 feet. This time though, it was just a short hop over the dense, unforgiving jungle that is the Darien Gap: The only “broken� section of the Pan-American highway between Alaska and Chile that is considered non-navigable. For those just joining in, 35,000 miles had already passed throughout Europe and an additional 8,000 miles had gone by, between Seattle, WA and Panama City, Panama. The routing, so far, has been, undoubtedly, one of the most-inefficient, zig-zagging travel adventures of my life. From nationwide political protests in Honduras to block parties in the streets of Oaxaca, you can read all about what led up to South America in the February 2018 issue of Upshift Online.
South America - Part 2
I arrived in Bogotá around midnight. The motorcycle was on a separate DHL cargo airplane, scheduled for the next day. The Customs or “Aduana” process for vehicle-entry into Colombia is lengthy and requires patience, but the saving grace is that it takes place in an air-conditioned building at Bogotá Airport. A helpful tip for riders that also may be shipping via airfreight is to jump on any of the major social-media forums (Pan-American Travelers, Horizons Unlimited, Pan-American Motorcyclers, ADVRider, etc) to team up with other riders. I shipped with Justin Brown, a Canadian rider. Even though there were two bikes, on two separate pallets, the freight forwarder “ServiCarga,” who partners with DHL, only used one “waybill.” This is the paperwork required for shipment of dangerous goods via airfreight. This reduction in paperwork saved us a couple hundred dollars! In total, the shipment for a KLR650 and an R1200GSA was $874.94 per bike. Shipping by container or even sailboat are also popular options worth looking into. Once on two wheels and just barely outside of the city, Colombia wastes no time smacking you in the face with its beauty. Lush fields of green fill the valleys between tree covered mountains. Dark blue creeks cut through the rolling landscape and dirt roads connect small villages. Finding scenic roads in Colombia is so easy that it feels impossible to have a bad day on a motorcycle. Just point your handlebars towards the mountains: waterfalls and twisty roads await you. The first few days, while mandatory insurance (SOAT) was hunted down, were spent in Bogotá. Even as a massive metropolitan city, Bogotá offers riders plenty of options for scenic travel. Just 10 minutes from downtown, a windy, twisty mountain road climbs steeply above the city streets to an overlook 10,000 feet above sea-level.
Journey routing is often dictated by the suggestions of locals. Off the bat, suggestions had us meandering along ridge-line roads that weren’t even on maps. We’d never otherwise find these if it weren’t for suggestions! The all-dirt route between Ibague towards Salento and Pereira took us through a patch of the tallest palm trees on earth. Riding the crest of a ridge, 12,000 feet above sea level, this road crosses rivers, descends into small, unincorporated villages, and traces the lowest contour of valleys deep within the rainforest. This place is motorcycle heaven. We pushed to the south, on roads that cut through steep ravines, barely clinging onto cliffs. It is in southern Colombia where the Trampolín de Diablo, translated to “Trampoline of Death,” is located. At just 45 miles long, in rain, the road takes almost 4 hours to traverse. There is no “fast” on this road. Hundreds of switchbacks take vehicles between Mocoa and Pasto, Colombia, high above sea level. Every inch of southern progress brings the journey closer to the Earth’s equator. But with all that’s going on in Venezuela, and their immigration crisis, the Colombian/Ecuador border crossing is a hectic place. Thousands of people wait in line to cross to the south and the crossing took 8 hours just to “check out” of Colombia. The imaginary dividing line between the Northern and Southern hemisphere lies just 150 miles south, near the Capital city of Quito. It’s here that I teamed up with Court Rand of Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental for a separate adventure that you can read about in the March issue of Upshift! Even if renting a motorcycle for the day (or week) aren’t in the plans, this moto shop is a must visit if you need parts or travel-pointers on everything related to Ecuador.
The weather down here is a funny beast. 15,000 feet above sea level on a volcano, you may get snowed on but after a quick descent to sea level, you’ll be shedding gear in 100+ degree heat. The routing and planning, as it was in Europe, and as it is to this day, is a connect-the-dots mission: “Stars” litter my GoogleMaps and planning routes between these stars never stretch much further than a day or two in advance. These pins cover everything from recommended roads to small pubs to recommended hostels. One pin that brought us to a particularly scenic overlook, that shouldn’t be missed if you find yourself in Ecuador, is “Laguna de Quilotoa.” A massive crater lake with dramatic views, both the ride to get here and the humbling feeling of being reminded how small we are on this earth, are worth the visit. Descending out of the high Andes, to the west, brings you to Ecuador’s picture-perfect coastline. The hustling-bustling resort town of Montanita has plenty of hostels with parking for motorcycles and is the perfect place to get your feet wet in the Pacific. It’s worth spending a few days here, trust me. As is the theme with much of the Pacific coast of South America, once you point the handlebars away from the ocean, elevation increases so rapidly, it can surprise you if you’re not paying attention. What’s interesting about this is that sometimes the roads aren’t necessarily steep. It can be a long straight stretch of consistently climbing asphalt. You won’t notice until your ears start to pop and breathing becomes difficult. 4 hours south of Quito lies Volcan Chimborazo. The small road that passes this massive, glaciated volcano is nothing less than epic.
You will ride to nearly 15,000 feet as you pass by with unobstructed views of the summit. Usually, grazing alpacas are the only other traffic around. What is interesting about this mountain is that it is actually the highest in the world when measured from the center of the earth. As with every country on earth, there is no such thing as “enough� time. Every twisty mountain road in this incredible place quickly proves that a lifetime in Ecuador would not be enough. The Peruvian border was sneaking up from the south and with every kilometer away from the equator that the motorcycle brings me, there is a visible change in environment. Dense, lush jungles seem to fade into a drier, high-alpine-like habitat.
Peru, for ages, has been at the top of the excitement list: A country that I’ve carried so much anticipation for. It was now within reach and at the end of January, I finally made it to the border. It is a land of 15,000-foot mountain passes, switchbacked cliff-hanging mountain roads, canyons, tunnels, ancient civilizations, and absolutely lawless driving! To this day, even after all these miles, Peru still leaves me asking myself, “How and why the hell did they build a road here?!” Another observation about Peru: What people are able to fit on a scooter here is jaw-dropping. Within just a few days here, there is no surprise associated with seeing a 50cc scooter loaded with an entire family, a couple of goats, and a grand piano - all making their way to church or something. Semi-trucks cross mountain ranges, precariously navigating razor sharp, hairpin-turns on the side of cliffs. They do so, overloaded with enough cargo that any State Trooper in the USA would have a heart attack (and carpal tunnel from the number of citations he’d write!) Opposite direction vehicles, on these roads, can make driving here petrifying and adrenaline-inducing...in the most awesome way ever! In the cities and metropolitan areas (in most of South America), red lights and stop signs are merely suggestions. It was in the city of Piura that I learned, apparently, that as if in a Hollywood action-movie police chase scene, driving down a sidewalk for 3 blocks to get around a construction zone is completely acceptable. Pedestrians jump out of the way as trucks and taxis bomb past storefronts. I can’t help but laugh inside my helmet sometimes at the hilarity of the driving here. Jokes aside, extreme caution is required on these narrow roads. In the cities, it’s not uncommon to see a missing sewer cap or a pothole the size of a Volkswagon Beetle: sure-fire recipes to ruin any motorcyclists’ day. Once away from the relatively flat coastline, fast-travel is nearly impossible in Peru. Neither GoogleMaps, GPS units, or Maps.me have any clue how to accurately estimate travel-time across these rugged mountains. Over the next few days, I’d work my way south on the most exciting roads I’ve ever been on. Deep canyons, somehow, would turn into steep ridgelines in the blink of an eye. Jungles fade to desert while temperature fluctuations had me zipping and unzipping my vents 20x a day.
About a week into Peru, these roads won the “luck” game and my life-on-the-road changed in the blink of an eye. It was a perfect blue-sky morning in the high-mountain village of Sihuas. That day, I planned on cresting a 15,200 foot pass enroute to the famous Cañon Del Pato - a ride that I had been looking forward to for years. I ate a quick breakfast at the local market, where village children bounced questions off of me about motorcycle travel. I find these experiences are what give me the best practice in learning a new language... and I can create future ADV riders!
I left the city, climbing high into the mountains and had just crested the pass. My engine was running hotter than usual, as it normally does in such thin air. I was feeling great, dipping in and out of corners on the narrow road, anticipating the dramatic scenery that lies ahead. In my helmet, I had The Stones playing “Start me up.” On my left, a vertical rock face of the mountain; on my right: Nothing. The road dropped off, with no guard rail for about 3000 ft (1000m). I had gotten quite used to this style of riding, always hugging “my side” of the road for opposite direction traffic. On some of these stretches though, there is no “side” of the road. It’s sidewalk-sized, paved mountain path. Then it happened: Just as I leaned the bike into a left-hand corner, my forward-view obstructed by the steep terrain, a Toyota Hilux appeared directly in front of me. In what seemed like only a millisecond, I saw his headlights dive downwards, as he braked hard. I did the same, careful not to lock up and let momentum take me off the side of the cliff. While I don’t remember actually hitting, I do remember hearing the “crunch.” I don’t think it was fast: Maybe 20 mph. The memory that came next was me sliding down the windshield, then rolling off the hood of the truck on the driver’s side. I did a quick pat down of myself, like some sort of airport security looking for weapons... Except that I was feeling for bones. After not feeling any of my innards hanging out, I did a quick dance... shaking my ass and my limbs to ensure that I could still move. No injuries! 1 point for me! So there I was, 15,000 feet above sea-level and I had just, somehow, survived a head-on collision with a diesel pickup truck. As with most motorcyclers, the “health” of my motorcycle was my next priority. My eyes went over to where my bike lie: Underneath the front axle of the Hilux. The truck had bulldozed the bike forward and to the right, about 15 feet from the impact spot. When I saw the bent forks and antifreeze pouring out, I was crushed. “How the hell did this happen,” I thought. “How did a life long dream come to a halt so quickly?”
The driver and the other 8 passengers (some stuffed in the cab, the rest seated in the bed of the truck) quickly teamedup on me, claiming innocence and demanding money. For about 15 minutes, in the middle of nowhere, things were really tense. It was an argument that I knew I just wasn’t going to win. It was my word versus theirs and I was the “outsider.” My only hope of getting my ass out of there, with no further conflict, was to apologize and “go along” with it. We (team effort), using the spare tire as a step, got my crumbled, leaking motorcycle into the bed of the pickup truck. All of us in this overloaded, completely bottomed-out Toyota, coasted 5000 feet downhill, back into Siuhas. At the police station, I was told I must pay for the damage to the pickup truck. The fact that the crash occurred on an 8-foot wide road, where nobody has a “side” made no difference in defending myself to the village police officer. I rolled my eyes at the whole process but ended up “settling” for $300 USD. The next day, I was able to talk this same Toyota Hilux owner to haul my motorcycle 200 miles to Chimbote, Peru...for an additional $300. Once in Chimbote, the motorcycle would be loaded onto a flatbed golf cart ($20 USD) for a 10-mile ride to the shipping facility. There, it was put in another truck, bound for Lima ($150 USD). I took a bus to Lima and awaited my motorcycle. By this point, rumors of my troubles spread to Motorrad Angels, who banded together to organize logistics to get my bike, the last step of the way, to the dealership. After three days of shipping a broken, 700lb motorcycle around the Andes, you can probably imagine how tired I was! At this point, I was still fairly certain that my motorcycle was totaled. Hey, this is what adventure is, right?
Once at the dealer, Alvaro and his maintenance crew were already expecting me. The witchcraft and sorcery that South American mechanics are capable of, in making broken things work, is nothing less than magical.– These guys, over the course of 6 days, made a totaled motorcycle ridable again. A couple new radiators, two new forks, a repaired rim, new tire, and the bending-back of mangled-metal later, the motorcycle was in my hands again... albeit without a front end! Saying that this trip wouldn’t have continued and that I wouldn’t have made it this far without the help of so many people; so many of them strangers is an understatement. After 10 days in Lima, letting out the clutch for the first time on my freshly-fixed motorcycle felt different. I felt like I was starting a new chapter: A second chance to continue taking photographs and sharing this journey with those who believe in me. Every single mile, since my crash, is appreciated. No mile is taken for granted and it’s because of the people and companies who have supported me. If you’re reading this, thank you. It felt good to leave the hustling and bustling city of Lima behind and head towards the mountains again. In a straight line, Lima and Cusco are only 500 miles apart, but it would take nearly 3 days and massive elevation gains to cover this distance, at times, through atrocious weather. Cusco is a really cool city where ancient archeology was preserved from Spanish destruction. Cusco’s feel; its ambiance, is a dream for any photographer. The Peruvians are a proud people, it’s obvious why. Perhaps Cusco’s most notable quality is the fact that it is the gateway to Machu Picchu. I had been reading about these ancient ruins since childhood and I had driven 13,000 miles to get here. Touristy or not, I just didn’t care! I was pumped.
There are a few different ways to get to the isolated village. Being a train-travel fan, I opted to make the epic journey via rail. As with all parts of the Andes, the weather is hit or miss and I took a gamble going at this time of year. At the end of the day though, Machu Picchu simply will not disappoint and that was certainly the case for me as the clouds parted over the ancient ruins. I always find it a strange feeling to zoom out of Google Maps; getting the big picture, looking back at ground recently covered. Seeing all the progress and retracing my route with my eyes, I think, “How can I ever summarize these life-changing experiences?” The fact is that words and pictures never will be able to. On the bottom of the map, I see that I still have half of an entire continent ahead. Stay tuned. To follow Tim’s journey in real-time, make sure you’re following his social feeds @timburkephoto!
FIRST RIDE: BMW G 310 GS
WORDS: ADAM WAHEED
PHOTOS: SIMON CUDBY
BMW pretty much invented the adventure-touring segment with its go anywhere, do anything GS platform. But for many, the price, not to mention its sheer size, kept it from reach for some. Not anymore: introducing the Bavarian brand’s latest addition to its ADV line-up, the 2018 G 310 GS. And the best part? It costs under six grand. The new GS shares the same underpinnings as its naked-bike sibling introduced late last year, the G 310 R. Powered by a liquid-cooled 313cc Single with a four-valve DOHC cylinder head that ingests fuel from the front and expels gasses out the back of the engine, just like the Yamaha’s new four-stroke YZ motocrossers. This affords a more well-packaged design, with reduced components and ultimately less weight. With its 2.9-gallon fuel tank topped, it weighs 374 pounds. That’s a whopping 164 pounds less than the R 1200 GS and 104 pounds fewer than the F 800! It also shares the same 80mm cylinder bore and valve angles as the Inline-Four powered Superbike horsepower king, the S 1000 RR. Speaking of power, the Motorrad crew say that its good for 35-horsepower and 21 lb-ft torque from the crankshaft. There’s more than enough power to outpace even some sporty cars at stoplights, plus it can comfortably cruise at 80 mph in top gear. Longer travel suspension with 7.1 inch movement gives offroad worthiness, as does the larger 19 inch front rim (17 inch at the rear). The cast alloy wheels aren’t wire-spoke, so you’ll have to be considerate where you plant them. You’re certainly going to think twice about hopping over small logs (or curbs! — the engine’s plastic skid plate is just for show, too), but for fire roads and narrow trails, it performs better than expected.
On the road, the suspenders are a wee bit springy, but it isn’t off-putting, considering its price or intended audience. It eats turns better than a little bike should with good stability and above average road holding. The Metzeler Tourance shoes have more than adequate grip on, and off-road, especially on dirt that has some moisture. The engine’s mellow powerband and well-sorted FI throttle response make it easier to ride when the going gets tough. The controls accommodate a range of body types, including this six-foot tall rider. When seated, the handlebar has a road-worthy rearward sweep and the machine feels thin between the rider’s legs. On the other hand, when standing the setup feels a tad awkward. Either way, it’s easy to swap ‘em out for an aftermarket piece. The footpegs are small too, but do feature serration for better grip against the rider’s boots. Rowing up or down through the six-speed transmission is painless, and we appreciate the tall final drive gearing for real-world freeway use. Top speed is right around 100 mph, but you need a bit of a decline to see it. Even with the engine’s counter-balancer, things get buzzy at high rpm. Folks that ride away from pavement, rather than on it, will want to install a smaller countershaft sprocket for added ‘oomph’, especially when navigating steep terrain. Mounting a set of Continental TKC 80’s wouldn’t be a bad idea either for those serious about kicking up roost.
ABS-equipped brakes are neither too powerful, nor too wimpy, and we like that the ABS can be disabled via a button on the switchgear, even on the move. Stainless-steel brake lines and a radial-mount front brake caliper are also nice touches, typically not seen in this segment. The LCD instrument display is both functional and easy to read. It includes a handy fuel level and gear position indicator, too. During moderately paced rides, expect fuel MPG rating in the low-60s. Faster freeway rides will reduce that figure to the low-50s. There’s also a standard luggage rack so you can bungee-tie cargo. This entry-level GS certainly isn’t going to set the world on fire with its performance, yet for the buck, you’ll be hard pressed to find a more capable companion on, or off-road. It looks like a BMW, rides like a BMW, while boasting a three-year, unlimited mileage warranty. Styling and overall fit-and-finish are classic BMW, which is impressive considering this motorcycle is assembled in India. Will it replace your Africa Twin in the garage? No. But it opens the world of adventure motorcycling to those not typically in-tune. Plus it’s perfect for the missus, or college-bound kid if they want to get in on the action and have some fun. www.bmwmotorcycles.com
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