Upshift Issue 23 July 2018

July 2018

Issue 23

ALL WEATHER ADVENTURE

DURBAN GTX GEAR

VARYING WEATHER SHOULDN’T STOP YOUR GREATEST ADVENTURE. COME RAIN OR SHINE, BATTLE THE ELEMENTS AND WIN THE DAY WITH CONFIDENCE IN THE DURBAN GTX GEAR. MADE EXCLUSIVELY BY ALPINESTARS, WITH WATERPROOF AND MULTILAYER VERSATILITY. AVAILABLE AT AN AUTHORIZED KTM DEALER

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DO NOT attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene, always wear protective safety gear and obey relevant and applicable provisions of road traffic regulations. The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected features and details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost. Accessories and apparel shown may not be available in every country.

Photo: R. Schedl

www.kiska.com

REVENANT GORE-TEX® PRO JACKET

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COMPATIBLE GARMENT LINER AIRBAG SYSTEM INSIDE LINER

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Issue 23 July 2018

nformation: These drawings contain information o Upshift. Any reproduction, or transmittal of this without expressed written consent is prohibited by partial or complete of the sord marks is prohibited ble to the full extent of the law.

July 2018

Issue 23

LOGO SHEET

THE INSIDER

Cover: American Honda

What’s Your Deal?

Design Chris Glaspell Photography Editor Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Tim Burke Stephen Clark Randy Commans Chad de Alva Ashley Myhre Christophe Noel

BLACK CMYK: C40 M30 Y30 K100

Contributing Photographers Bridgestone Moto Tim Burke Stephen Clark Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Christophe Noel

CMYK: N80 Y100

GEAR

THE LATEST

KARMA RIDERS

Do GOOD AS YOU GO

Business Development Brandon Glanville Want to advertise with us?

Contact: info@upshiftonline.com

INSTAGRAM TRAVELERS

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Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell

Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

INSTA-ADV PMS 021

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THE $2000 ADVENTURE BIKE

Stephen CLARK BUILDS HIS SUZUKI DR650

Join us on Instagram at @upshift_online Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/upshiftonline

TESTED

schuberth E1 Modular Helmet Outback Motortek KTM Protection Combo KLIM F5 Koroyd Helmet 23986 Aliso Creek Road P.O. Box 450 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677

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Upshift Magazine is published monthly

by Upshift Online Inc. 2018. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

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MOSKO MOTO UNRALLY

ALVORD DESERT, OREGON

What’s YOUR DEAL?

BY CHRIS GLASPELL As Upshift enters its second year, I wanted to reflect on the course we have taken to get here.

Despite the ride having its challenges, it’s been a fast paced, wind in your face, cruise through the woods. Let me elaborate. Over a short 2 years ago, two seasoned motorcycle industry veterans in Simon Cudby and myself decided we wanted to start something that hadn’t been done before. Sure, there were plenty of motorcycle magazines out there, most of which came out of the same publishing giant in Irvine, CA. But we wanted to focus on adventure and dual-sport riding, not get sucked into the “need it now” era of pop-up ads, race results and gear ratios.

Before Upshift was even born, friends and colleagues from other publications met us with anxious curiosity. We heard everything from, “Why do you want to do that?” to “That won’t last.”

I applaud my industry friends for being honest, but damn! In fact, the first week we went to an official industry gathering, another magazine executive came up to me with no introduction and simply said, “Upshift, what’s your deal?” My answer, which has never changed was, “Our deal is to go have fun, tell stories and give people something to enjoy, all without demanding a $10/ month charge!” Great business strategy, huh!

Simon and I were determined not to be the norm and to show people that great photography still exists. We wanted to communicate that adventure bikes are not only fun as F$@&, but they’ll take you places you’ve never heard of. Just ask Tim Burke. Tim came to us in the beginning and conceived the idea of riding his bike around the world. This meant selling everything, leaving a nine-to-five behind and hitting the road. His story is one of many travelers we’ve come across through Upshift’s outreach, and the list has continued to grow. We do what we can to help support our fellow adventure addicts and their quest to stay on the road. This is where Brandon Glanville comes in. Brandon, who has been a long time industry friend and has a reputation for building a brand, had interest in helping us keep the project moving. This meant putting a more effective business strategy together without hindering Upshift’s content and substance quality.

No pop-up ads, no daily requests for subscriptions, but instead, a fun, insightful product for enthusiasts that could eventually lead us to leave our nine-to-five jobs too. We wanted to put all we had into the growth and success of both the industry and its riders.

What Simon, Brandon and I have learned along the Upshift journey is that there are really amazing people who want to ride either with us or for us. We try to support both, but as all of our readers know, making time to go ride is a commitment. Not all of us have the courage or time to drop everything and explore the unknown, but we do what we can to enjoy our time on 2 wheels, no matter the circumstances. We have enjoyed the stories we’ve received from people around the world. Whether on missions to make the world a better place or on journeys just to see what’s out there, our readers have thoroughly impressed us. Something far better than looking back at our own work with satisfaction, is watching that very work inspire and satisfy others.

Keep the stories, support and ideas coming, and don’t forget to get out there and ride.

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The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

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INSTA-ADV

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DMADATrailEssentialsPouch Keeping all the small items that come with us on a ride organized, protected and off the bottom of our panniers or tank bag is critical. Those small items can also be expensive and are critical to keeping things working properly. From batteries, cords, memory cards to that spare o-ring, bolt, spare lever or even your snacks- the DMADA Trail Essentials Pouches keep everything clean and where you left it. Available in 3 sizes in our exclusive charcoal gray with hi-viz orange liner and zipper pulls. www.upshiftonline.com/store

*Applicable to select models only. Some restrictions apply.

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations!

The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

Photo: R. Schedl

www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com

REACH NEW HEIGHTS

Husqvarna Motorcycles presents the perfect opportunity to reach all new heights aboard a new 2016, 2017 or 2018 off-road motorcycle.Rates as low as 1.99% Annual Percentage Rate (APR) on eligible models.

Upshift, July

1. Rylo 360° Camera Rylo is a groundbreaking camera designed with powerful software that makes it easy for anyone to shoot, edit, and share incredibly smooth, cinematic video. With 360° capture, breakthrough stabilization, and a simple app for fast editing on-the-go, Rylo produces exceptionally beautiful video every time.

Highlights: 360° Video: Capture everything around you in beautiful 4K 360° video and compose the perfectly framed shot after the fact. Simply press record and Rylo’s dual 208° wide-angle lenses combine to give you full 360° coverage. Create a regular HD video by selecting a traditionally-framed view within the 360° footage, or share a fully immersive video in 4K 360°.

Breakthrough Stabilization: With breakthrough stabilization and horizon leveling automatically built in, Rylo makes your videos look like they were shot on a professional stabilization rig — no matter the conditions.

One-tap Editing Tools: The Rylo app makes creating a video worth sharing easier than ever. Select your video and use simple one-tap editing tools to create something you’re proud of in minutes.

MSRP: $499.00 www.rylo.com

2. NEMO Spike Trekking Pole Tent Designed with guidance and testing from professional hunters and anglers, the Spike™ is a truly minimalist shelter that will get you further off the beaten path. Its floor-less, trekking pole-supported design is meant to shed every ounce possible – and resulting in a 1-person shelter that is less than a pound and packs incredibly small. Silicone-treated fabrics increase strength, durability, and waterproofness.

The Spike™ pairs perfectly with the Argali™ sleeping bag with its waterproof bag that can be used directly on the wet ground. The large entry door on the 2-person can be supported by trekking or tarp poles (not included) to create an awning, or can be securely zipped shut for a waterproof seal. Spike’s silicone-treated fabric is free from toxic flame retardants. Specs: Capacity - 2, Seasons - 3, Minimum Weight - 1 lb , 10 oz / 730 g, Packed Weight - 1lb , 15 oz / 890 g, Packed Size - 11.0 x 5.0 in dia / 28 x 13 cm dia, Peak Height 46.9 in / 119 cm, Floor Area - 47.9 sq ft / 4.4 sq m, Floor Dimensions - 107.6 x 64.2 in / 273 x 163 cm. MSRP: $249.95 www.nemoequipment.com

Upshift, July

3. SpotX 2-Way Satellite Messenger SPOT X provides 2-way satellite messaging so you can stay connected to family, friends and colleagues whenever you’re outside of cellular range, including direct communication with Search & Rescue services in case of a life-threatening emergency. SPOT X even provides you with your own personal mobile U.S. number so others can message you directly from their cell phone or other SMS devices at any time. MSRP: $249.00 www.findmespot.com Message Exchange messages with any cell phone number or email address from virtually anywhere in the world.

S.O.S. Send an S.O.S. to the 24/7 Search & Rescue center, message back and forth about the nature of your emergency, and receive confirmation when help is on the way.

Tracking Select from 2½, 5, 10, 30 or 60 minute tracking intervals, and let family, friends and other adventurers follow your progress with SPOT’s easy-touse Google Maps™ interface.

Check In Quickly and easily let everyone know you’re OK. Post To Social Link your Facebook and Twitter accounts to keep your friends and family in the know wherever you go.

Compass Built-in compass and programmable waypoints to help you navigate.

TILL THE WHEELS FALL OFF!

Upshift, July

4. AMP Touring Windshield Husqvarna 701 Enduro by Puig The team at Appalachian Moto Products have partnered with the engineers at Puig, makers of the world’s best plastic motorcycle windscreens, to develop an all new windshield for the Husqvarna OEM style headlight.

Available in 3 different colors: clear, smoke and dark smoke. Requires drilling of the headlight mask.

Fits all Husqvarna models using Headlight Mask 2500800100028 including 701 Enduro/Supermoto and TE/FE 17-18 models.

MSRP: $124.95

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GET EQUIPPED FOR THE ADVENTURE AHEAD!

Pursang $179

Wat e r p r o o f t e x t i l e Jacket  Constructed of multi-layer Dura Guard 600 denier textile.  Removable, waterproof and breathable Reissa liner.  Removable quilted liner for cold rides.  10 zip open vents to keep you cool.  Pockets everywhere!  CE armour used throughout.

Motonation Apparel offers a solution for riders who are focused mainly on product value, the utmost in features and fit at an affordable price. Despite the affordable price level Motonation apparel meets strict quality and safety standards.

Phantom $129

Wat e r p r o o f t e x t i l e pa N t  Constructed of multi-layer Dura Guard 600 denier textile.  Removable, waterproof and breathable Reissa liner.  Removable quilted liner for cold rides.  Multiple pockets & zip open vents to keep you cool.  CE armour in the knees.

motonation.com 877.789.4940

Alt Colors:

The 2018 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. Set coordinates for the unknown.

For journeys that go beyond the GPS, you need an adventure bike that does more. One with advanced 3-mode traction control that lets you adjust to any riding surface imaginable. A first-in-its-class three-axis, five-direction Inertial Measurement Unit that feeds data to the new Motion Track ABS and Combined Braking System for predictable, optimal braking, even while cornering.

And a powerful, fuel-injected 1000cc 90-degree V-Twin engine that takes you from coastal highways to rutted-and-rocky trails.

The high-tech, high-mile V-Strom 1000: plan for the unexpected. *As low as 1.99% APR financing for 36 months on new and unregistered Qualifying Model is available through Sheffield Financial, a Division of Branch Banking and Trust Company. Member FDIC. Program minimum amount financed is $1,500; Maximum Amount Financed $50,000. Not all buyers will qualify. Approval, and any rates and terms provided, are based on credit worthiness. Other financing offers are available. $28.64 per $1,000 financed monthly payments required over a 36-month term at a 1.99% rate. Example: On a purchase where the Amount Financed is $7,500, your Down Payment is $0 with 36 monthly payments of $214.79 each. Interest Rate is 1.99% [ANNUAL PERCENTAGE RATE is 1.99%]. Financing promotions void where prohibited. See your local Suzuki dealer for details. Offer subject to change without notice. **Select models will receive a Customer Cash amount of $2,200, $2,000, $1,700, $1500, $1250, $1200, $1000, $750, $500, $300, $250, or $200 which is non-transferable. Visit www. suzukicycles.com/offers to see which select models qualify for customer cash. Excludes promotional financing. Only valid in continental United States, excluding HI. Offer effective from a participating authorized Suzuki dealer between 6/1/18 and 8/31/18.

Traction Control cannot prevent loss of traction due to excessive speed when the rider enters a turn and/or applies the brakes. Neither can it prevent the front wheel from losing grip. ABS is not designed to shorten the braking distance.

Please always ride at a safe speed for road and weather conditions, including while cornering. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2018 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.

Four V-Strom models. Infinite journeys.

See the full lineup at SuzukiCycles.com

Wide Open

Atacama Desert - Chilean Coast

Photo: Tim Burke

2018

Wide Open

Grand Canyon, Arizona

Photo: Stephen Clark

2018

Wide Open

New York, New York

Photo: Tim Burke

2018

DISCOVER NEW HORIZONS. On and off road.

E1 The comfort of a flip-up helmet. The look & feel of a modern adventure helmet. The E1 is as at home in the country as on tours. The helmet for the modern adventurer, for you.

WWW.SCHUBERTH.COM

Wide Open

Ouarzazate, Morocco

Photo: Bridgestone Moto

2018

Wide Open

Continental Divide Trail, Wyoming

Photo: Olivier de Vaulx

2018

Wide Open

Alvord Desert, Oregon

Photo: Simon Cudby

2018

Wide Open

Pahrump, Nevada

Photo: Simon Cudby

2018

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KARMA RIDERS I could see Vishu’s pensive expression from across the river. He gave me a thumbs up in an un-convincing vote of confidence and followed it with an exaggerated wave. I didn’t know if he was more concerned with me or the rickety old suspension bridge between us. I wouldn’t have been hesitant to proceed had his crossing not been so unnerving to watch. Even for a skilled rider I wouldn’t say he nailed it.

As I placed my front tire on the first wooden slat, a strong gust of wind blasted the side of the bridge. It swayed erratically. Unlike the other footbridges we encountered, this one didn’t have heavy chain-link guardrails, only thin wire mesh panels loosely fixed to wooden planks.

They wouldn’t do much to keep a Royal Enfield Bullet from plunging into the swirling rapids below.

Words and Photos: Christophe Noel

KARMA RIDERS DO GOOD AS YOU GO

I let out the clutch, gave the throttle a firm twist, and lurched forward. The boards clacked and creaked under my wheels in protest. At the halfway point a strong gust prompted my knees to instinctively clamp down on the fuel tank. When I finally arrived at the far side and bobbled down the six concrete steps to where Vishu was standing, he just smiled. With his thick Nepalese accent he said, “See, is no problem.�

Only three days into our two-week trip I was still getting acquainted with Vishu. My confidence in his abilities cycled between moments of unwavering trust and a fear he was going to kill us both. I reminded myself of the circumstances that brought us together to an aging footbridge in the Himalayas. The whole thing felt woefully ill-advised and awesome at the same time.

KARMA RIDERS DO GOOD AS YOU GO

When introduced on Facebook two months earlier, I didn’t know much of Vishu. His bio said he was an accomplished mountaineer and the owner of a motorcycle touring company based in Pokhara, Nepal. He summited Ama Dablam once and guided on Mount Everest, both impressive credentials. His motorbike experience included trips into India and Bhutan. That helped ease my concerns, but what sealed the deal and compelled me to fly 10,000 miles to meet him was his expert knowledge of the Far West district of Nepal. Not many Nepalese, outside of those who live there, know much of the region.

Finding Vishu filled a critical hole in my travel logistics. Over the course of several months I volleyed emails back and forth with the Nepalese government hoping to gain their assistance. It proved a tough nut to crack, but I managed to win their support as a hosted journalist. Our collaboration was a bureaucratic tango, neither of us sure who was the lead. They needed me to promote tourism in the unvisited corners of the country. I needed resources to get there. Vishu was the hap-less middleman. When we finally shook hands on the ground in Nepal, I still had yet to tell him the real reason I wanted to venture west.

KARMA RIDERS DO GOOD AS YOU GO

Like all trips with strangers, the first day was awkward. With the sun bathing the mountains in pink light, I dragged all of my luggage to my motorcycle and set to work lashing what I could to the rear seat. I shoved my cameras in my backpack, stuffed small items in my jacket pockets, and prepared for an uncomfortable two weeks ahead. Vishu sauntered to his bike wearing a few basic pads under his jeans and jacket. In his backpack he tossed a first aid kit, flip-flops, and a pair of shorts. He gave me a wary glance and said, “You have too many gears.” I knew what he meant and he wasn’t kidding, but I wasn’t ready to tell him why I was loaded like a yak.

On the eve of our ride, while reviewing a map borrowed from the hotel lobby, I told Vishu I needed to get a good overview of the region. Not just the post-card destinations but the places far off the tourist tracks where foreigners simply do not tread. He seemed quite excited about the idea.

We drafted a quick schedule with a trip through the heavily visited corridor of the Annapurna region and Lower Mustang Valley. It was to be our shakedown run before heading west.

KARMA RIDERS DO GOOD AS YOU GO

KARMA RIDERS DO GOOD AS YOU GO With our motorbikes charging hard up gravel roads leading into the Himalayas, I felt the over-whelming sense of serenity I have always loved about the Himalayas. Even over the raucous noise of a motorcycle engine the world’s largest mountains impart a unique sense of tranquility. My last trip to Nepal was in 2015, also as a hosted journalist. At that time I was tasked with reporting on the recovery of the tourist industry after the devastating earthquake earlier in the year. That was a tough trip. I was glad to be back under better circumstances.

As pleased as I was to see the travel trade back in full swing, the throngs of tourists were at times overbearing.

Just when the traffic started to stack up, Vishu piloted us into the forest on singletrack trails only he seemed to know of. We eventually stopped at a small house where friends of his rushed out to greet us, their young kids excited to see the tall foreigner. I plopped down in the grass while our lunch was readied and within minutes fell asleep to the sounds of chickens, goats, and rambunctious toddlers at play.

The first few days on the tourist beat gave me ample time to enjoy the splendors of Nepal. Our pace was swift and we covered more miles than I expected. We made a speedy dash through the Lower Mustang Valley stopping to grab a few photos before pushing on. Just when I was about to crack we rolled into a small mountain lodge to grab a hot meal, a warm shower, and plot our next days of travel. It was time to spring my plan.

At breakfast the next morning I placed a small grey box on the table and said, “I need your help.” I went on to explain that inside the box was an MSR SE200 Community Chlorine Maker. Created by the most advanced water science lab in the world, it uses salt, water, and electricity to make chlorine. Each use can disinfect more than 50 gallons of water, or enough for 200 people. I needed his help getting three water purifiers to remote villages. I was told if anyone knew where to take them––it would be Vishu.

He put down his tea and inspected the little device. He didn’t say a word. The project I had been planning for more than a year seemed in peril. In the previous months I visited the MSR water lab in Seattle and helped put the SE200 in action in Guatemala. Now on the other side of the planet the whole thing appeared like it might have been a terrible idea. And then Vishu said, “This is very good. I know where we can go. I know people who need this. I will take you there. Is no problem.” And with that our travels had a defined objective. We ordered more tea and discussed places where we could deploy the water purifiers. Vishu was excited. I was relieved.

The next morning we woke before sunrise with a renewed sense of purpose. We hit the road early ready to knock down big miles. But Nepal had other plans. Immediately once out of the tourist zone we hit one setback after another. We rode into an area crippled by a fuel strike and spent the day searching for black market petrol. After forking over $6 a liter to fill our bikes we continued on until my headlight failed in the middle of the night. Shortly after that, Vishu’s rear hub seized in a spectacular skid.

KARMA RIDERS DO GOOD AS YOU GO

There was mud, dust, and all of the trappings of an adventurous motorcycle journey. In many places the roads narrowed to little more than cart paths. Most were trafficked only by rogue barnyard animals. More than once we rolled into a village with onlookers amazed to see a foreigner. I often sat in small roadside shacks drinking tea as inquisitive kids giggled and poked at my strange white skin. The Nepalese have a saying, “Guest is God.” Everywhere we went I was treated with kindness and welcomed like an old friend they had not seen in years.

Two days after we first made our way west, Vishu turned down a small road and we descended into a verdant valley dotted with small houses. With the sun sinking behind the mountains he stopped and switched off his engine. He removed his helmet and said, “My friends live here. They don’t have good water.”

With no maps, signs, or any idea where I was, all I could do is jot down the name of the village in my tattered notebook––Wamitaksar. No sooner had I dismounted my bike I was approached by the village elder, a kind man named Chandra Gohti He helped me unload my motorcycle and instructed his family to prepare us a hot meal and a cup of milk tea. Once fed I was directed to a spare room in the Gohti house. I barely had time to kick off my boots before falling asleep. I would have slept better had two pigeons not spent the night fluttering around the rafters.

KARMA RIDERS DO GOOD AS YOU GO

The next morning the village was buzzing with news of the two visitors. Vishu rallied early and organized a meeting with the community leaders and several teachers from the local school. His enthusiasm was infectious.

He rushed around collecting buckets and recruiting kids to haul water. Before long we had gathered a small crowd. I gave my presentation of the water system as Vishu translated and answered questions on the fly. Mr. Gohti and the teachers took notes and told us of the kids who suffer every monsoon season when waterborne illnesses ravage the valley. And with that, our water project had taken flight.

We spent the next week pushing further west and down into the lowlands along the Indian border. Our route took us to places Vishu knew did not have clean water. One of the stops was the refugee camp of Pardule. Made of sticks and mud, it is home to 80 survivors of landslides that displaced more than 5,000 people in 2013. They too told us of kids made sick, or worse, by fouled water. It was a story we heard repeated the next day at our last stop in Kumu Gabar. Situated in the Bardia tiger preserve it was one of the most beautiful places on our route. There the Ra Lama family spent several hours with Vishu learning how to integrate a water purifier into their community.

They had tried several solutions before without success.

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KARMA RIDERS DO GOOD AS YOU GO

KARMA RIDERS DO GOOD AS YOU GO

More than once during our visits I found myself in the shade while Vishu explained the use of the purifier. It was comforting knowing hundreds of people who wanted clean water now had it. It felt great knowing my part was relatively minor. All I did is fill a duffel bag with water purification systems and lug them to Kathmandu.

Vishu did the rest.

During the early miles of our trip, I frequently doubted Vishu’s judgment and aptitude. It wasn’t always an easy partnership.

People travel to Nepal to discover the mountains, culture, and sometimes themselves. I went to Nepal as a reporter, but also as a traveler hoping to make a difference. In the process I made a new friend.

The remaining days of our motorcycle journey seemed to fly by as we made the return trip to where it all began. The rhythm of the road started to feel more fluid. Mornings were early, tea stops frequent, and the miles melted away. The roads didn’t get any better. There was more mud, wash-outs, and detours. During a late afternoon tea break while sitting in plastic chairs on the side of the road, Vishu interrupted the silence and said, “Can you come back after the monsoons with more water purifiers? I know more villages we can visit. Please come back.” Without drawing a breath to say it, I blurted out, “Of course, my friend. I will be back in October.”

A week later, after more than a month away from home I was strapped in an airplane seat. My face was flush with sunburn and my back ached from riding a motorcycle with virtually no suspension. I was tired and ready to go home. I sent a text to my wife telling her I was finally on my way. Then dropped the news I planned to return to Nepal in just six months. What Vishu and I accomplished felt too much like a beginning to be an end.

KARMA RIDERS DO GOOD AS YOU GO

As the jet accelerated down the runway pushing me deep into my seat, I tried to inventory the moments of the previous month. The entire trip was like one long and rickety old bridge, but we crossed it. Just as my eyelids became too heavy to keep open, I mumbled to myself, “See, is no problem.�

This is not the end of the story. If you would like to join Vishu and me on the ground in Nepal, the invitation is open. We will be back on the road in October of 2018 and again in March of 2019. Our proposed route will take us through the most remote corners of the country where we will deliver water purification solutions to villages and schools living without access to safe drinking water. For more information please visit: www.cleandrinkadventures.org About the Author: Christophe Noel is a freelance journalist, photographer, and general vagabond. A seeker of stories untold, he can often be found with a map in hand, most likely lost, in the most remote corners of the globe.

The founder of Clean Drink Adventures, he believes in the power of the traveler and doing good as you go.

EXPLORE. ENJOY.

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Find more than 900 accessories at giviusa.com Discover giviexplorer.com the web portal for motorcyclists

2001 SUZUKI DR650 I’ll be the first to admit that I’ve always been a bit of a bike snob and have always gravitated to fastest, lightest and most sporty bikes in any category. But the older I get the more I have come to realize that the people you ride with contribute more to the enjoyment of the trip than the bike itself. In recent years adventure dual sport bikes have become incredibly advanced but with those advances comes complexity and cost. In an age of electronic suspension and traction control can an old school simple motorcycle like the DR650 provide a similar level of enjoyment? We set out on a journey to answer that question.

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY: STEPHEN CLARK

In the spring of 2017, a ‘01 Suzuki DR650 showed up on Craigslist and a buddy asked if I was interested in buying a 50% share in the bike. So we both chipped in a grand and the bike became our loaner bike for the summer. We offered it up to friends who were interested in coming on adv trips and for anyone visiting from out of town. The deal was, you could come on one trip with us on the loaner bike but after that you had to buy your own. Our try before you buy scheme worked out pretty well as several buddies ended up buying new bikes.

The stock DR wasn’t anything to write home about; it had soft suspension, soft handling, wasn’t very fast and pretty ugly. But it was cheap, easy to ride, reliable and easy to fix/maintain. We knew it could be greatly improved with a few modifications, but before we could start making modification we needed to fix a couple of issues with the bike. It turns out pre-2005 bikes came with a paper base gasket and ours was leaking. With the help of a good friend, Jared Leblanc, we tore into the engine and it quickly turned into a situation of, “since we are in here we may as well replace this and this and that…..” It was really hard to know where to stop but we ended up installing new rings, honing the cylinder and getting the head freshened up with new valve seals. We considered replacing the cam chain but that looked to be a bigger job than we were ready to undertake.

With multiple orders of stock parts and a fair dose of bad luck, the whole base gasket replacement took a bit longer than expected. In hindsight, spending the extra money and starting with a post-2005 bike would have been a lot easier.

We have found with some builds that if you go too crazy improving any one area of the bike, that can come at the expense of other attributes of the bike. So for this build we avoided fork swaps, big bore kits and other drastic changes, but rather focused on making incremental improvements to every aspect of the bike. Nobody knows these bikes better than the guys at ProCycle, so we gave them a call to see what they recommended. They said the single best mod you can make to the bike is to replace the stock CV carb with a Mikuni TM40 Pumper. The stock carb uses a vacuum operated slide and a throttle butterfly and while it may have some benefits it does create a bit of lag in the throttle response. ProCycle sells a TM40 kit that allows for an easy replacement of the stock carb. We also replaced the stock exhaust with a Pro Circuit T-6 silencer and a stainless steel header from a newer model DR that a buddy had laying around the shop.

2001 SUZUKI DR650

2001 SUZUKI DR650

Next we contacted the guys at Warp 9; they also know the DR well and manufacture several products for the bike that fix many of its shortcomings. The stock starter end cap has a bushing that is prone to failure so we replaced it with a machined billet cap with a sealed bearing.

The stock wheels were looking a little worse for wear so we ordered a set of black rims and spokes. We dismantled the stock wheels and painted the hubs then went to work lacing the wheels with Warp 9 Elite rims and stainless steel spokes. Warp 9 also supplied black billet engine plugs and a set of risers that allowed us to fit 1-⅛” fat bars.

The stock suspension was overly soft and after seventeen or so years of use was in need of an overhaul. Brockstar suspension rebuilt the forks and shock, installing cartridges in the forks and stiffer springs front and rear. The DR’s conventional front forks have quite a bit more flex than the upside down forks that most modern bikes come with, so Warp 9 made a billet fork brace that tied both fork legs together for more rigidity contributing to improved handling.

Next up was the electrical system. We replaced the stock gauge with a digital Vapor gauge from Trail Tech, a more compact rear brake light from ProCycle, new LED turn signals, Trail Tech auxiliary LED lights and replaced both of the stock handlebar switches. The Trail Tech and ProCycle parts installed easily but we were not able to find direct replacement handlebar switches so we ambitiously attempted to retro fit a KTM starter switch and a universal turn signal/headlight/horn switch. This turned into a several day project of tracing wire, replacing pins and staring at wiring diagrams. Thankfully my friend Jared LeBlanc has way more patience than I do and has a connection in Japan to buy OEM style connectors. It was a miserable process figuring it all out but the result was worth it.

2001 SUZUKI DR650

2001 SUZUKI DR650

We planned on riding the bike off-road so it needed some protection. We installed a set of Acerbis endurance handguards and one of their plastic skid plates.

We also added a white IMS tank that increases the fuel capacity from 3.4 to 4.9 gallons and a Seat Concepts seat with a custom blue/black cover. The stock pegs are tiny so we replaced them with some IMS Pro Series stainless steel pegs and a new shift lever. We also added a Giant Loop Klamath tail rack pack that fit perfectly on the stock rear rack- it has room for some tools, an inner tube and enough space for a snack or two.

The last piece of the puzzle was tires and brakes. For tires we went with Continental TKC 80’s with a 21” front and 17” rear, this tire offers a great balance of on and off-road performance and to top it off it looks really good. We know from our road racing days that the biggest single improvement you can make to a braking system is adding stainless steel brake-lines, so we ordered up some SS lines from Galfer and put on some new brake pads while we were at it.

2001 SUZUKI DR650

2001 SUZUKI DR650

ENGINEERED FOR ADVENTURE C A R L S B A D JAC K E T & PA N T The Carlsbad was conceived of the need for highly mobile, highly vented and minimized bulk adventure gear – all while maintaining KLIM’s highest abrasion resistance and durability standards. Specifically designed to handle the rigors of on and off-road riding, the Carlsbad integrates vastly improved venting and mobility, as well as an optional kidney belt, over the Overland series that preceded it.The Carlsbad is the essential ADV setup for riders looking for a no-compromise streamlined package of high mobility, comfort and durability.

# K L IML IF E

K L I M .C O M

2001 SUZUKI DR650

The finished bike is completely different than stock and the combined performance gain of all the parts really is significant.

The carb and pipe added a lot of responsiveness to the engine, and even at our power robbing altitude the bike can easily lift the front end when you want it to. Handling is much improved and the suspension gives you the confidence to ride off-road much more aggressively. I think I can say with confidence that every single part that we added to the bike has a purpose and contributes to the riding experience.

The bike is incredibly versatile and works in any imaginable type of terrain you could ever come across. So far I’ve never had that “oh crap what are we doing here” feeling that I’ve had so many times on big bikes. There is a certain comfort that comes from knowing that you can make it through some singletrack and has enough comfort, wind protection and fuel capacity for the slab. The riding experience is a lot different from the refined electronically assisted feel of a multi cylinder modern bike.

The carb hits hard and the exhaust has that raw throaty thumper tone. But it’s a ton of fun to ride and the mechanical simplicity of the bike is nice. Spending time on this DR has reaffirmed that getting out there and seeing the world from behind a set of handlebars is a fantastic thing no matter what bike you do it from.

KNEE PROTECTION IN EVERY LOCATION

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TESTED

BY TIM BURKE

Schuberth E1 Modular Helmet Ok, I guess this isn’t your typical review. It’s different because I’m not writing about a still brand-new product that I’ve used for only a week (I’ve always wondered how honest opinions on durability can be offered in just a few days of testing a new product). For this review, I’ve had this helmet strapped to my head for quite awhile.

11 months and about 45,000 miles, from Greece to the Arctic Ocean in Norway, from Ireland to the bottom of South America, this helmet has passed through heat, cold, dust, mud, rain, sleet, snow, arid desert, and humid rainforest. It’s been through the ringer.

Based on these travels, I’ll tell you about my observations. Some are great, some annoy me.

First, I need to be honest with you that I am a little bias in favor of Modular (flip-up) helmets. I need a mod-helmet for comfort. I just do. It makes photography easier for me and also allows for non-claustrophobic breathing when stuck at traffic-lights in Central America in humid, 1 million-degree heat!

At 3 lbs, 15-5/8 oz. (1803 grams), Schuberth uses a blow-in-fiberglass method for the construction of the helmet shell. It’s the same shell utilized on the C3 helmet. It’s an old design and honestly, I’d like to see Schuberth come up with something new soon. Either way, it’s not the lightest but it’s not the heaviest.

It is solid though, especially once the chin guard is “clicked” closed. Once the helmet is down, locked and loaded, it’s hard to tell that it’s actually a flip-up helmet. The CoolMax liner, which is completely removable for cleaning, also makes it easy to install speakers and wiring for a Bluetooth system of your choosing.

While Schuberth makes a proprietary Bluetooth/audio system of their own, I have elected to use both the SENA 20S (audio only) and the SENA 10C (audio/video) at various points during this trip. An item worth noting, in regards to the installation of these systems, is that due to the thickness of the bottom “rim” of the helmet, a “clamp-style” Bluetooth attachment can be difficult to install. This has many riders using strong double-sided tape like 3M for attachment of a device. This method, in dirty, dusty, or wet conditions, is not ideal for obvious reasons. I found that a solution to this is to shove the backplate of the cradle into the shell first. Once it’s in there, you can attach the Bluetooth device cradle to the backplate and tighten. It will be attached firmly until you’re ready to remove it.

Noise: This is a quiet helmet. Schuberth has built themselves a reputation for quiet helmets and as such, they put A LOT of effort into this matter. When I visited the factory in Magdeburg, Germany, I saw first hand that each helmet on their roster, similar to aircraft, go through aerodynamic and aeroacoustic testing, using actual wind tunnels. Narrow streams of smoke are used by their engineers to visualize, measure, and subsequently manipulate the dynamics of airflow, which not only reduces noise but also buffeting. Schuberth claims that at any speed there is ZERO upward lift, and after tens of thousands of miles, I can confirm that this is true. I’ve also found it to be a major factor in reducing fatigue.

Fit: It seems that with these helmets, in particular, this is a contentious matter amongst riders. The reason why is simply in the design and shape of the Schuberth brand. While still oval-shaped, it is not as elongated as many brands out there. Due to this, I have heard many riders complain of not just discomfort, but straight up pain in the forehead. If it doesn’t fit your head, it just doesn’t fit you head.

As with any new wearable product, there is a break-in period. I only experienced slight pressure after having the helmet on for 3 or 4 hours and only for the first week. After that, no issues. 11 months later, the helmet still fits perfectly and remains tight in the cheeks.

Flip-open functionality: The open/close mechanism of the chin bar feels smooth and solid. Friction is adjustable with two alan head screws on the hinge. I have observed that over time, these will have to be tightened periodically. On some brands of modular helmets, the raising of the chin bar forces the face shield closed. On this helmet though, it is required that the face shield be closed completely before the chin bar is raised. Otherwise, it will not go up completely into the friction-locked “up” position. This isn’t much of an annoyance, but it is worth noting that an extra step is required while rolling down the road.

Built-in Sun shield: Schuberth was the first company to offer the built-in sun visor. It slides down to and slightly around the nose. Its operation uses a sliding knob on the left side of the helmet. More importantly, it makes you look like a bad-ass fighter pilot…an automatic “plus” in my book. I’ve had no issues with this function and have become mentally programmed to desire this in all helmets.

Some users of the helmet complain that the location of this knob is inconvenient for the mounting of a Bluetooth device but I have no qualms with the location of my Bluetooth device.

T E S T E D: S c h u b e r t h E 1 M o d u l a r H e l m e t Visor Riding: At all hours of the day, the adjustable (or removable) visor is a must-have for me. It could benefit from being stiffer though. Each face shield comes with a pin-lock attachment, completely reducing interior fogging. I seriously don’t know how I lived without Pinlock before.

Problems with functionality: The clear face shield may, over time, become loose at the hinge and fall closed. For me, it was the 10-month mark and about 40,000 miles. Keep in mind, my helmet has gone through more in 10 months than most helmets will. This problem is fixed with a new visor screen, or in my case, in Argentina, a folded up business card shoved between the helmet and screen to increase friction.

The next item I’m pretty sure is my fault (because I’m so strong and muscular). I broke one of the Pinlock “pins” when cleaning my face shield. The face shield will no longer hold the Pinlock shield in place: Again, my fault.

Looks: Come on guys and gals, let’s just be honest: we’re ADV riders and we like to look cool, it’s half the battle. The E1 comes in a huge variety of decal schemes, and they are all sharp. Seriously, I think it’s one of the better looking helmets out there with a paint scheme to match any motorcycle or jacket.

Conclusion All in all, after 11 months and 40-something thousand miles, my next helmet will still be a Schuberth E1 or hopefully, an updated equivalent. Until other companies step up to bat offering all the features and the extensive research that has gone into this helmet, there is no other choice for me right now. You get what you pay for here. After all, it is our brains that we’re investing in!

Go to www.schuberth.com.

Positives • Quiet • Excellent ventilation (visor vent, filtered chin vent, top-of-skull vent) results in 60% more fresh airflow than competitors • Solidly functioning components. When chin bar is closed, you would not know it is a mod-helmet • Bluetooth ready/capable • Wide field-of-view • Built-in, fully integrated sun-visor • Easy to clean (removable liner) • Coolmax liner: Cool in hot weather, warm in cold weather • Visor that is easily adjustable or removable Negatives • Face shield visor must be closed first before lifting chin bar – not a big deal • Face shield visor hinge may prematurely wear out causing it to fall closed. Requires inexpensive replacement • Helmet’s “wide lower rim” makes mounting some Bluetooth devices challenging • Cost – Numbers don’t lie: at between $750-850, depending on vendor, it has one of the most expensive price tags in its class.

Be Smart About Your Adventure

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RO AD SMART I I I

TESTED

BY RANDY COMMANS

Outback Motortek KTM 1090/1190/1290R Protection Combo Upper Crash Bars Outta-the-box I noticed the color, finish and 22mm tubing was a perfect match to the stock lower bars. The installation was easy and everything fit properly. While the addition of the heavy-duty upper mounting bracket took a little extra time, it was worth it in the end giving the crash bars a very solid feel.

Outback’s design allowed me to remove plastic fairings and the gas tank (giving me access to the air filter) without removing the crash bars. That’s a huge bonus as cleaning the air filter is already too much work.

Crash tested- it’s hard to write a review for a set of crash bars without actually crashing. With a few low speed crashes and rocky tip overs, I can assure you they do a great job of protecting your bike. The upper crash bars have a few scrapes and scratches now, but no real damage. The alignment is still true and I attribute that to the addition of the heavy-duty mounting bracket.

Outback Motortek has done their homework by providing us with some good looking and functional protection.

Skid Plate Outta-the-box the Outback skid plate looks very well made. I really appreciated the formed and welded one-piece design. My previous skid plate had additional sliders, bolts, and washers that became problematic after just a few rides. The sides of the Outback skip plate wrapped just high enough to provide additional protection while still maintaining a slim profile. I liked the black finish but must admit I was a little worried about how it would look after a few months of bashing rocks. Well, it’s now been about 6 months and it still looks good. Mounting was a breeze, and removing the skid plate to change the oil was quick and easy.

Testing the skid plate was the fun part, taking it out and pounding the nasty rocky sections. I am happy to report it took a beating and still looks good. The black finish held up very well while the aluminum plate held its shape with only minor scrapes. The addition of a skid plate to your 1090R is a must, the Outback Motortek skid plate is as good as they get! MSRP for the Combo is $609.00 usshop.outbackmotortek.com

TESTED

BY CHAD DE ALVA

KLIM F5 Koroyd Helmet Klim has reinvented the wheel with the F5 Koroyd helmet, and it’s the best off-road helmet I’ve ever worn. The F5 Koroyd fits like a glove and thanks to the Koroyd material used in the helmet’s construction, it breathes and protects better than any other off-road helmet on the market. A new top shelf for helmets has been added to the wall – here’s what makes this helmet unlike any other.

Koroyd is the name of a material originally developed for the aerospace industry that is capable of absorbing more impact energy than the Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) and has been used in helmet construction for decades. EPS is a solid material, whereas Koroyd looks like someone glued together every straw in a box of drinking straws before removing the box.

This honeycomb of straws creates a very lightweight material that hardly restricts airflow (think of blowing air down all of the straws), compared to EPS that needs airflow channels cut into the helmet that trade airflow for impact absorption. With Koroyd, the helmet gets an increase in airflow and an impact absorption, which explains why the material has also found its way into skiing and bicycling helmets.

Yet Koroyd is just one part that goes into making the F5 Koroyd helmet such an outstanding piece of gear. The helmet’s shell is made from Klim Karbon, which keeps the overall weight of the helmet very low. Vent placement was developed in a wind tunnel, and there are 18 intake and 8 exhaust vents that compliment the placement of the Koroyd to breathe whether you’re flat out in the desert or wrestling your way up some rocky single track in the mountains. A MIPS low friction layer helps mitigate rotational forces applied to the helmet in a crash, and a FID-LOCK strap closure makes taking the helmet on and off so easy, you’ll wish all of your helmets had FID-LOCK.

KLIM F5 Koroyd Helmet We’ve been running the F5 Koroyd helmet in the rain, sun, and snow all over the Western US for the last few months and we have been exceedingly impressed by the performance of this helmet. If the best piece of gear is one that works so well you don’t even notice it’s there, the F5 Koroyd is as close as a helmet has ever come by a long shot. About the only time you’ll notice the helmet is when you’re descending a steep climb and need to look up at the hill directly in front of you while wearing a neck brace. The F5 Koroyd will limit your ability to look up slightly more than other helmets on the market, but this is something that you’ll recalibrate to after a few rides. Furthermore, the benefits of the F5 Koroyd completely overshadow having to give up a few degrees of tilting your head up.

The F5 Koroyd comes in three shell sizes and three EPS sizes with the ability to mix and match crown and cheek pads so that achieving a good fit is possible on almost any head.

Klim also includes a windstopper liner if you’re going to use your F5 Koroyd in the winter, as well as a breath box, spare visor and hardware, as well as an actual helmet duffel bag (not a sock) with each helmet. The F5 Koroyd is the next step forward in off-road helmets – nothing I’ve worn has the ability to protect or perform like the F5 Koroyd. Putting on any other off-road helmet feels like taking a trip back in time to a hot and sweaty, less safe place that takes longer to get in and out of because I can’t undo a double D ring in .23 seconds like I can a FID-LOCK. Even if you don’t need a new helmet right now, take a look at Klim’s F5 Koroyd helmet. The increase in impact absorption could quite literally make the difference in a crash, and a new helmet is much more affordable than a hospital bill or a traumatic brain injury. MSRP: $649.99 www.klim.com

Performance Lighting Solutions For Every Adventure Ride

PEGASUS LED LIGHT KIT cyclopsadventuresports.com

Words: Ashley Myhre Photos: Simon Cudby

“Uniquely expressive acts get transformed and elaborated into social rites, and through participation they accrue a breadth and depth of meaning which can only be produced in a communal setting. It is the primal process by which culture is created.�

-Larry Harvey

A few weeks ago, a group of us met on the Alvord Desert in Southeastern Oregon to camp, ride, and chill for a weekend. We did all those things, and so much more.

We sailed the land, played a few pranks, surfed the sage brush, burned into the night, threw many an axe, jumped on trampolines, delighted in LED boccie ball, weathered a storm, danced our hearts out, sat in silence, and explored the Great Basin in its vast expanse.

There were no fairgrounds, no group rides, no tire-changing seminars, no presentations, no vendor flags, no wake up announcements, no quiet hours, and absolutely no f-ing raffles or dual-corking.

It was the opposite of a rally, it was an UNRally.

We think the UNRally takes on a different meaning and significance to everyone who attends. For some, it’s all about the riding and for others, the riding is hardly the point at all. There is a certain peace that comes over a person being in a place as remote and empty as this one. A stillness of the mind and the freedom to do whatever the hell you want.

Here are a few of our favorite playa games: Lean into a turn on your bike going 70mph and close your eyes. Then keep them closed. See how long you can stay there. Trust us, or don’t.

Close your eyes and count silently to 30 seconds walking straight in front of you, then open them up. Bet you’re facing a different direction than you’d think. Try the same thing on your bicycle – pro tip, listen to “Pretzel Logic” by Steely Dan while riding the bicycle.

YOUR ADVENTURE OUR PASSION At Rottweiler Performance, our focus has always been to ask the question, “How can we take these incredibly well engineered machines and creatively manipulate them into what we, as a unique consumer with personalized needs would want from a motorcycle?” That answer becomes your adventure, and our passion.

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Lie down on the playa late at night and let your eyes adjust as the light show begins before your eyes. Magic – or astrology if you wanna get technical.

We have six shared UNRally principles. Participants are encouraged to internalize and absorb the Principles far in advance – our hope is that the principles are well understood and people fully enact them throughout the weekend.

• Principles Over Rules - we hate rules.

• Active Participation - we, the participants, are the entertainment. Be creative, do not expect to be entertained… not even for a minute.

• Self Reliance - take care of yourself, the nearest help is really far away. Bring more than enough, contribute something to the community cause.

• Leave No Trace - we pick up after ourselves and we also pick up after others. Leave nothing, seriously.

• Everyone’s Invited - which is not the same as ‘everyone can come,’ because we only have so many toilets.

• No Commerce - Nobody is working, selling, or promoting brands.

Last year 60 people came, this year there were 95. We counted 35 cars, vans, and campers on Saturday morning, and the rest were on bikes. About half the vehicles cleared when the wind picked up and some scattered showers made it over the mountains during the day on Saturday. Those who stuck around - the dusty survivors - were rewarded with awesome riding and cooler temps, a fun and intimate fire scene Saturday night, and perfect weather on Sunday.

We’ve even come up with a neat little Sunday night ritual to continue next year, for those who stay.

There are natural barriers to entry that come along with attending the UNRally, and honestly that’s the way we like it. It’s in about as remote a location as you can imagine, meaning it’s a time commitment and an adventure to even get out there. The environment is harsh, mother nature has no mercy. The sun is hot, the wind is relentless at times, and the nights can be bone chillingly cold – we won’t even mention what happens when precipitation hits. The people who came this year and were put off in any way, or didn’t enjoy themselves won’t come back. And that’s a-okay. Others will go home and tell tales of the UNRally for years to come, therefore attracting other like-minded folks. The way we see it, it works itself out.

This event absolutely has to be fun, or we won’t continue to do it. We’ll just go back to camping out there in the spring on our own (which we’ve done for more than a decade) – but so far it has been an absolute blast to share it with all who who’ve dared to join. It’s definitely a labor of love to put on this event, but it’s like our weird brain child coming to life and watching it develop over the last two years has been immensely fulfilling.

Huge thanks to everyone who made the trek and contributed to making this such an epic gathering. We’re already brimming with ideas for next year. Can’t wait. Check out the Mosko Moto events page for future rides. moskomoto.com

bad roads bring good people.

Photo by Olivier de Valux, Montana

Find us on MOSKOMOTO.com or on ADVRIDER.com in the ‘Vendors’ forum.

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