September 2018
Issue 25
LIMITLESS EXPLORATION HQ ADVENTURE GEAR RACE TO THE ENDS OF THE EARTH WITH CONFIDENCE. DESIGNED AND TESTED IN REAL SITUATIONS, THE HQ ADVENTURE GEAR OFFERS THE READY TO RACE QUALITY AND COMFORT YOUR ADVENTURE DEMANDS. AVAILABLE ONLY AT YOUR AUTHORIZED KTM DEALER
/ktmusa
Photo: M. Chytka
Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations. The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost. European specification model shown.
A L L- N E W B A D L A N D S P R O For the third generation of the iconic badlands pro series, we challenged ourselves and our partners to rethink the fundamental needs of adventure riders, defy convention, and build from the ground up the most innovative, exciting, and intuitive badlands pro yet.
THIS IS HARDWARE, NOT APPAREL.
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K L I M .C O M
ISSUE 25
September 2018
nformation: These drawings contain information o Upshift. Any reproduction, or transmittal of this without expressed written consent is prohibited by partial or complete of the sord marks is prohibited ble to the full extent of the law.
September 2018
Issue 25
LOGO SHEET
THE INSIDER
Cover: Stephen Clark
USE THEM OR LOSE THEM
Design Chris Glaspell Photography Editor Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Ana & Jon - Into the World Adam Booth Stephen Clark Egle Gerulaityte Seiji Ishii
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Contributing Photographers Ana & Jon - Into the World Tim Burke Olivier de Vaulx Stephen Clark Paul Stewart Wild Feathers Blog
THE LATEST
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TOUR OF IDAHO
CONQUERING THE BACK COUNTRY
Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell Business Development Brandon Glanville
Marketing to Women
BY Egle Gerulaityte
Want to advertise with us? Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com
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Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2018. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.
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Colombian Andes
Glaciers, Explosives and Hospitality TRAILS FOREVER
Use them or lo INSIDER: STEPHEN CLARK
Public land is a fiercely debated topic these days. Everyone has an opinion on how it should be managed and all the special interest groups have an agenda for its use. If you visit a National Park you will likely wait in long lines and struggle to find parking. However my experience is that you don’t have to get very far off the beaten path to be in complete solitude on Forest Service Land. It’s funny you see and hear about these different land users in the news but when it comes to actually using the land there is nobody to be found. We recently completed a nine day trip across Idaho and can honestly count on one hand the number of other trail users we encountered. Certainly in this part of the world there are more trails than we have time to ride but even in more populated states there is an issue of trails not being ridden enough. Underuse is as much of a problem as overuse. When trails aren’t ridden, nobody clears them and they become more overgrown. Then the managing agencies that are already strapped for budget are more likely to close them down so that they don’t have to deal with maintaining them, and then unfortunately they are gone forever and never get re-opened. The groups fighting for trail advocacy are fighting a tough battle in Washington, and aside from donating money to these groups, there isn’t really much you can do on a national level. However on a local level there is a lot that we can do. The old saying of “vote with your feet” definitely applies. Get out riding, join a local club and get involved in a trail maintenance day or even just cut a log anytime you come across one on the trail. Living in the Western US we are absolutely spoiled by the amount of public land and legal trails we have at our disposal. It’s easy to take them for granted but don’t assume they will always be there. Use them responsibly, get involved with local and national trail organizations and above all get out and ride. There is an endless amount of trails out there just waiting to be ridden. For more information on trail advocacy visit sharetrails.org
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Large 9.5” x 6” $25.00
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Mini 6” x 4” $17.00
Upshift is supporting Veterans Back 40 Adventure by offering a few select products in the Upshift store. With the majority of the profit going to the Veterans Back 40 Adventure program to help fund their next outing. The first of these products will be the DMADA Trail Essentials Pouch in MultiCam™. Made in the USA with USA sourced materials by a small independent brand in Boise, ID. Each pouch will generate the following donation to VB40A: Mini - $6, Medium - $8 Large - $10. In addition to getting a lifetime quality product, you will be helping a good cause and changing the lives of our veterans.
www.upshiftonline.com/store
REVENANT GORE-TEX® PRO JACKET
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COMPATIBLE GARMENT LINER AIRBAG SYSTEM INSIDE LINER
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SEE THE FULL LINE OF TECH-AIR® COMPATIBLE PRODUCTS AT ALPINESTARS.COM
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Upshift, September
Alpinestars Re-Invents The Off-Road Gear Alpinestars revealed its new line of products dedicated to the off-road community following the launch of their new Supertech M10 Helmet. Here are some of the main announcements, which should bring enthusiasm to the ADV community: The all new ANDES DRYSTAR PRO jacket, which also comes in a lady version, is 100% waterproof and breathable. It also features an advanced ventilation system with smart foldable panels and is compatible with the Alpinestars active airbag protection system Tech-Air. Enduro riders will want to check the VENTURE R jacket, pants and jersey. Built with weight in mind, the strong VENTURE R products will be the perfect match for the sportiest rides. The BIONIC Chest Protector mixes hard shell protector plates with soft bio foam interior padding, all using specific grid technology cell system to spread the impacts. The super light and soft to the skin SEQUENCE Protection jacket comes in long or short sleeves and layers of high polymeric material with the same grid system protects your upper body. Kids are not forgotten with the SX-1 YOUTH, interesting mix of a knee brace and a knee pad giving more versatility when legs grow. Classic removable elbow and knee protections with affordable price and grid cell system are also offered. Last, but not least, the emblematic TECH 10 boot was totally redesigned, featuring new safety technologies: The heel uses EPS material to spread big impacts, while the new pivot systems offers more motion control on every direction. With its new blades in front, new buckles, new ankle brace, the 2019 TECH 10 is improving an already near-perfect boot, while the little sister TECH 7 comes with new colors. All these products will be available soon in dealers throughout the US. www.alpinestars.com
1. Andes Pro Drystar® Jacket - Tech-Air™ Airbag Compatible Designed using Alpinestars exclusive DRYSTAR® construction, the Andes Pro DRYSTAR® Jacket offers true versatility with 100% waterproofing and great levels of breathability, even in difficult riding conditions. The technically advanced construction of this jacket offers protection and abrasion resistance and is adaptable to all weather conditions. The Andes Pro is also compatible with Alpinestars leading active airbag protection system, Tech-Air ®. Sizes: S-4XL, • Advanced reinforced poly-fabric textile and Alpinestars exclusive DRYSTAR® waterproof and breathable construction for excellent all-weather performance. • Zippered chest air intakes and back exhaust ports for internal climate control and enhanced riding comfort. • Internal impact protection provided by removable CE-certified elbow and shoulder protectors. • Chest and back pad compartments (CE-certified Nucleon chest and back protector inserts available as accessory) for use when Tech-Air Tech-Air ® is not installed. • Extra protective polymer layer in critical elbow and lower arm areas for superior abrasion resistance. • Reflective graphic details and logos allow the ride to be more visible to other road users in varying light conditions. • Front waterproof cargo pockets offer greater convenience and a secure closure.
Upshift, September
2. Sequence Protection Jacket With Level 1 CE certified protection on the back, chest, shoulders and elbows, the ergonomic and lightweight Sequence Protection Long Sleeve Jacket is ventilated for excellent levels of airflow and comfort. Compatible with neck supports and featuring a removable elastic belt, this protection jacket is highly versatile. Sizes: S-XXL
3. Venture R Jacket A technical off-road and Enduro riding jacket that has been developed and tested in the most grueling conditions such as the Dakar, the Venture Jacket is highly robust and durable with reinforced stitching, a rip-stop poly-fabric main shell and plenty of convenient storage options. Optimized for use with Alpinestars’ Bionic Neck Support, this jacket can be adapted to suit every environment thanks to effective ventilation, generous storage provisions and removable sleeves. Sizes: S-3XL
4. Venture R Pants Lightweight, durable and specifically engineered for the rigors of Enduro riding, the Venture Pants offer high levels of mobility and comfort. With a water resistant treatment and zippered air-intakes, this pant is equipped to deal with a range of weather climates.Sizes: 28-40 • Rip-stop nylon and polyester fabric construction for excellent abrasion resistance. • Main textile incorporated water resistant treatment for improved weather performance. • Extended stretch area on crotch, knee and rear yoke for excellent fit and riding comfort. • Zippered air intake vents are strategically positioned for optimized airflow when opened. • Knee PU reinforcement for additional abrasion resistance. • Stretch panel on calf to increase flexibility and movement.
Upshift, September
5. Woman’s Stella Andes Pro Drystar® Jacket Designed specifically for the female form and using Alpinestars exclusive DRYSTAR® membrane, the Stella Andes Pro DRYSTAR® Jacket offers true versatility with 100% waterproofing and great levels of breathability, even in difficult riding conditions. The technically advanced construction of this jacket offers protection and abrasion resistance and is adaptable to all weather conditions. The Stella Andes Pro is also compatible with Alpinestars leading active airbag protection system, Tech-Air ®. Sizes: S-2XL • Advanced reinforced poly-fabric textile and Alpinestars exclusive DRYSTAR® waterproof and breathable construction for excellent all-weather performance. • Zippered chest air intakes and back exhaust ports for internal climate control and enhanced riding comfort. • Internal impact protection provided by removable CE-certified elbow and shoulder protectors. • Chest and back pad compartments (CE-certified Nucleon chest and back protector inserts available as accessory) for use when Tech-Air ® is not installed. • Additional reinforced polymer layer on critical elbow and lower arm areas for abrasion resistance. • Reflective graphic details and logos makes the rider more visible to other road users in varying light conditions. • Front waterproof cargo pockets for convenience and reassuringly secure closure. • Large, external utility pocket on lower back plus waterproof internal pockets and insert wallet pocket. • Integrated soft edge collar and 3D mesh construction for comfort over long distances.
6. Tech 10 Boot New performance double pivot motion control system features; Medial and lateral double pivot system for improved levels of flexibility and precision control. Engineered front flexion control offered by a dual front blade system plus shock absorber insert to offer mechanical progressive force release which dampens and absorbs impact energies. Redesigned dual density TPU rear blade system engineered to prevent hyperextension while offering improved flex control and impact resistance. Built into the Tech 10’s unique and lightweight single-piece co-injected foot chassis is the patented Dynamic Heel Compression Protector (DHCP),an innovative safety feature which includes a fully integrated collapsible heel area with expanded poly-foam to absorb high impact energies during a crash. DCHP features a directional impact protection system which significantly reduces the effect of excessive, potentially injury-causing energy being transferred to the ankle and lower leg. DHCP has been developed and tested in the demanding circuits of professional Supercross and Motocross. Sizes: US 7-14 / EUR 40.5-49.5
Upshift, September
7. Session Race Jacket Softshell jacket that acts as a windbreaker with a polar fleece liner for excellent thermal capabilities, the Session Jacket is optimized for comfort and convenience with plenty of pocket storage options and strategic stretch paneling for freedom of movement and reduced fatigue on those challenging Enduro trails. Sizes: S-3XL • Multi material shell construction: wind breaker softshell in the exposed area and polar fleece fabric to increase comfort and thermal capability. • Zippered air intake vents are strategically positioned for optimized airflow that can be controlled according to rider’s needs. • Main shell textile incorporates water resistant treatment for improved weather performance. • Two front hand pockets and one chest zippered pocket offers secure and convenient storage of essential belongings. • Feature elbow and shoulder PU reinforcement for additional abrasion resistance. • Stretch panel on forearms to increase flexibility and movement.
8. Bionic Chest Protector The versatile and modular Bionic Chest Protector incorporates Level 1 CE certified protection on the back, chest and shoulders. With hard shell protector plates and soft bio foam interior padding, the Bionic Chest Protector is extremely comfortable, with a lightweight design that allows for high levels of breathability and airflow. Sizes: XS/S-M/L-XL/XXL
9. Tech 7 Enduro Boot Upper constructed from light, innovative microfiber that is flexible and abrasion resistant. Innovative, evolutionary TPU shin-plate construction for greater range of fitment features a reinforced hook and loop closure for comfortable, highly customized closure. Shin zone incorporates a TPU blade system engineered to prevent frontal hyperextension and offer greater flex control. Specifically designed sole provides Enduro riders superior durability, grip, feel and a high level of structural rigidity. Wide entry aperture for convenience with hook and loop upper closure TPR flap to allow broad ranging calf fit adjustment and support. Sizes: US 5 - 16 / EUR 38 - 52
Upshift, September
10. Dango Designs GoPro® Gripper Mount With the Gripper Mount, there’s no need to buy a different camera clamp for each vehicle or use bulky mounting hardware and sticky mounts that leave residue on your equipment. The Gripper Mount is compatible with all GoPro models and serves many purposes throughout your adventures. Use it as a quick-attach fixed camera mount, a handheld stabilizer, or a mini tripod. You can easily unmount and move the Gripper Mount as many times as it takes to find the best perspective. Then simply use the quick-adjust camera mount with 2-axis rotation to line up the perfect angle to capture your action shot! MSRP: $49.99 www.dango-design.com • Gripper jaws clamp to irregular shapes and slippery surfaces, such as your helmet, handlebars, or your vehicle. • Slim yet durable construction allows the Gripper Mount to slip effortlessly into tight situations. • Easily movable and serves as a quick-attach fixed mount, handheld stabilizer, or mini tripod. • Flexible front web conforms to your object. • Robust dual torsion spring provides strong clamping force. • 2-axis rotation for flexible and quick adjustment to reposition your camera for that perfect shot.
NEW BIKE IN A CAN
SC1, KEEPING YOUR ADVENTURE FRESH
Bringing your bike back to life after a 1,400+ mile off-road adventure is no easy task. SC1’s advanced formula blends conditioners with color enhancers to produce a brilliant shine. Easy application – can be sprayed on surface and left wet or buffed to a dry sheen. Wet application helps prevent mud from accumulating on surface. Ride, clean and SC1 your Adventure Bike to keep it working and looking its best.
Made in the USA
MaximaUSA.com
Upshift, September
11. Gerber Pack Hatchet - Flat Sage Axe Founded in 1939 and based in Portland, Oregon, USA, Gerber is an American brand whose products have global reach and relevance. Carried extensively by hunters, soldiers and tradesmen, Gerber’s heritage runs deep. For a compact tool, the Pack Hatchet delivers an impressive amount of function. Exaggerated finger grooves in the handle allow for incredible edge control while choking up to handle detail work and precise cuts. Full length: 9.46”, Blade length: 3.5”, Weight: 20.8 oz, Stainless steel construction, Choke up ergonomics, Tall grind for optimal sharpness, Rubber overmold handle, Lanyard hole, Belt carry sheat. MSRP: $33.00. www.gerbergear.com • Full tang construction means steadiness in hand and the strength to power through swinging chores. • A tall blade grind retains optimal sharpness. • The handle is wrapped in a rubber overmold for added grip and comfort. • Nylon sheath can be mounted on pack or belt. • Integrated lanyard hole secures the hatchet while on the move.
OINTS
EARN P
DS REWAR
E
UR ADVENT Y R E V FOR E
#GetEquipped | http://AOMC.mx
TILL THE WHEELS FALL OFF!
konflictmotorsports.com Call us at: (425) 681-5160
The Suzuki V-Strom 1000. Set coordinates for the unknown. For journeys that go beyond the GPS, you need an adventure bike that does more. One with advanced 3-mode traction control that lets you adjust to any riding surface imaginable. A first-in-its-class three-axis, five-direction Inertial Measurement Unit that feeds data to the new Motion Track ABS and Combined Braking System for predictable, optimal braking, even while cornering. And a powerful, fuel-injected 1000cc 90-degree V-Twin engine that takes you from coastal highways to rutted-and-rocky trails. The high-tech, high-mile V-Strom 1000: plan for the unexpected.
Traction Control cannot prevent loss of traction due to excessive speed when the rider enters a turn and/or applies the brakes. Neither can it prevent the front wheel from losing grip. ABS is not designed to shorten the braking distance. Please always ride at a safe speed for road and weather conditions, including while cornering. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2018 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.
Four V-Strom models. Infinite journeys. See the full lineup at SuzukiCycles.com
Wide Open
Leh Ladakh, India
Photo: Wild Feathers Blog
2018
Wide Open
Emstruleiรฐ F261, Southern Iceland
Photo: Simon Cudby
2018
Wide Open
Kalispell, Montana
Photo: Olivier de Vaulx
2018
Wide Open
Little Boulder Creek, Idaho
Photo: Stephen Clark
2018
EXPLORE. ENJOY.
GRAVEL-T RANGE Gravel T is a line a 100% waterproof bags, made for off-road journeys and specifically suited to light motorcycles such as Enduro and Supermoto. The collection has been developed to meet the requirements of off-road travel. • Made from 100% waterproof material • Main body incorporating high frequency welding • Super light and resistant technical materials • Reflective inserts • Universal fixing system using straps
Find more than 900 accessories at giviusa.com Discover giviexplorer.com the web portal for motorcyclists
Wide Open
Skjolden, Norway
Photo: Tim Burke
2018
Wide Open
Ricky Brabec, Atacama Rally
Photo: Monster Energy Honda Team
2018
Wide Open
Colombian Andes
Photo: Paul Stewart
2018
Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost. Appropriate for closed-course competition use only.
Photo: R. Kates
www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com
SUPERIOR STYLE AND SOUND Available exclusively through an authorized Husqvarna Motorcycles dealership, the FMF Factory 4.1 RCT Muffler exudes forward-thinking technology inside and out, to complement the premium performance of your Husqvarna motorcycle. Crafted from only aerospace-grade materials, more power and torque comes easy without additional weight or compromised style. Closed-course use only.
Motorex Power Sy Ester-based engin performance for y
ynt 4T is a fully synthetic PAO and ne oil, the ultimate in quality and your peace of mind.
motorexusa.com
KNEE PROTECTION IN EVERY LOCATION
NEW COLOR!
See your local dealer or visit asterisk.com
“The Tour is in no way a casual undertaking.….. it is not for everyone.” www.motorcyclejazz.com
By Stephen W Clark
It’s funny coming into the Tour of Idaho. We had all these plans: we were going to eat steak and shrimp at Sandpiper in Pocatello the first night, get some great Wings at lunch in Sun Valley on day three and you know get a fairly early start everyday- probably get on the bikes at 8am after breakfast. Ha! Absolutely none of that happened. About four hours into the ride on day one it quickly became apparent that this ride was going to be a lot more challenging than we had expected. What ensued was nine of the longest toughest days of our lives. People had warned us by telling us to start in the dark, skip breakfast and lunch and just get to our destination as soon as possible, which was hopefully before the restaurants closed. But as is the way with things like this you always think “well we are pretty fast riders, I don’t see that happening.” So on day one we got a relatively late start departing the Utah border in Southern Idaho, we rode a selection of dirt roads, ATV trail and singletrack taking us over three mountain ranges and dumping us into the small vacation town of Lava. We stopped for a fairly leisurely lunch and chatted about how good of time we were making. The route Martin lays out has a challenge section on all nine days however you only need to complete three of these challenge sections to be an official finisher. We didn’t really think too much of this so immediately after lunch we hit the first days challenge section. Pretty much out of nowhere we hit this crazy steep rutted out rooted hill and what went from a leisurely trail ride somehow escalated into a coolant boiling, bike dropping scene that resembled Erzberg. I got stuck and took several attempts to get to the top and Tony ripped his saddlebag bag off on a tree and got a flip flop caught in the chain. Following the nasty climb we went around an exposed sidehill section that really wasn’t overly difficult but the type of trail that if you go off the side you might spend a couple of days getting your bike back up. Jesse also lost a shoe on this section and developed some clutch problems. Battered and a little shocked by what all went down we rolled into our hotel in Pocatello at dusk. Day one was a big wake up call and a great warning for how the next eight days were going to go. It’s absolutely amazing that there is a primarily dirt route that extends the entire length of a state, and we aren’t talking dirt roads like the ones you ride on a BMW GS. We are talking technical off-road trails that are really only passable on a small single cylinder dirtbike. We did have to re-route around a fire in Challis that added some asphalt but had it not been for that section I would estimate the total distance of asphalt to be less than 30 miles total out of nearly 1600 miles. All of the trails are completely legal and open to motorcycles with most of trails on Forest Service Land and some on BLM. Some of the trails on the Tour are so remote and only ridden and cleared by Tour of Idaho riders. Coming from the UK where there are essentially no legal dirtbike trails it’s absolutely incredible that a trail system like this even exists.
Martin has lots of recommendations about how to tackle the Tour and few of them make much sense until you actually do it. One of those recommendations is to take a rest day in Pocatello at the end of day one. However, not wanting to add another day to an already long trip, we decided to just keep going on day two. In hindsight, this day off is really valuable; part of what makes the tour so difficult is that it’s a completely different style of riding and requires a completely different kind of setup than what we usually ride with. The Tour of Idaho requires you to ride a bike that is light and agile enough to ride extremely technical singletrack but still have the fuel capacity, navigation and luggage for long distances. Inevitably these setups take some time to get dialed in and a day off on day two would allow you to make those changes. So we ended up staying up till midnight working on bikes and then we were back on the bikes the next morning in the dark. Day two is the longest distance of the Tour and widely regarded as the toughest day. We left Pocatello early and rode some great singletrack right out of town followed by a hundred or so miles of gravel, ATV trails and asphalt taking us across several mountain ranges and bringing us to American Falls. We ate lunch and fueled there then headed out across the desert and across the dreaded Lake Channel sand dunes. There is an absolute maze of trails in this area and Martin’s route seems to zig zag across them all. The sand is soft and navigation is a huge challenge. And in the desert you don’t realize how much you need shade until you don’t have it. For me personally this was the most mentally challenging and frustrating section of the whole ride, but we worked as a team to navigate. We got through the sand and began making our way across the desert towards Big Southern Butte and eventually ending in Arco.
After suffering through the less desirable southern section of the state on the first two days it was great to get into the good stuff over the next few days. The riding on day three through five was absolutely incredible. Tons of great singletrack and trails that took us above 10,000 feet in several different spots. Grand Prize trail out of Smiley Creek took us right along the edge of the Hemingway Wilderness, watching the sunrise above those incredible peaks while riding epic singletrack was one of those amazing moments on the trip where you can’t believe it’s all actually happening. Fires are alway a huge concern on the Tour of Idaho and we got to experience that first hand. On day five outside of Challis from a ridge about a mile away we watched the crews fight the Rabbit Foot Fire from the air with a slew of aircraft. Down on the roads it was a hive of activity with tons of water trucks flying up the road to support the aircraft. After a chat with a USFS Ranger we were forced to re-route. We took a section of highway and rejoined the route near Salmon.
Day six, seven and eight were where things got really interesting for us and honestly looking back it’s a bit of a blur. Day six took us across the famed Magruder Corridor that is also on the Idaho Backcountry Discovery Route. While this road through Wilderness is incredible on an ADV bike it is much less fun on a single cylinder dirtbike. It’s a long pull and we had to stop off in Elk City to get fuel before another fifty mile section to Lowell where we stayed the night. In an effort to keep out of each others dust and just push on, our group got seperated and Tony ended up getting lost and not making it to Elk City. Jesse and I waited in Elk City and using the tracking feature on the Garmin InReach watched helplessly as Tony rode off the wrong direction, thankfully not long after his tracks turned around and he began backtracking. So we ordered some food and enjoyed some time off the bike while we waited. There was no gas available in Lowell where we would be spending the night so we needed to get as much fuel as possible to make the 250 or so mile stretch to the next fuel stop that would be at the end of day seven. When Tony eventually arrived we gassed up the bikes, a fuel bag and a few gas bottles and headed for Lowell. The rough trails made my gas bag fall off and in the process knocked the cap off and I lost all the fuel. Jesse also lost a fuel bottle off the back of his bike. After losing a couple of hours with Tony getting lost we were now way off schedule and ended up riding in the dark for several hours getting into Lowell at about 11pm, only to find the hotel that we booked was closed for the night. So we went over to a nearby campground where the owner got out of bed and Tony somehow sweet talked her into opening up the store so we could get some frozen pizzas and PBR, then she let us sleep in her staff accommodation. While nothing glamorous, we were so thankful to have a bed and a roof over our heads.
By pure luck the sleeping situation had worked out but the next morning we still had the lingering issue of not having enough fuel to make it through the day. We went to work asking everyone we could find if they had fuel. Aside from a splash of gas from a side by side owner, we were unsuccessful. With little option we headed out on the trail and rode in the most fuel conservative way possible. We had heard the challenge section on this day was the hardest of the Tour but it also knocked off about 45 miles so we went for it. It wasn’t easy, but we made it through and kept moving. Then at about 9 pm the inevitable happened and I ran out of fuel. We made the conservative decision to put all the fuel we had into Tony’s bike and send him the 30 miles or so down to Lochsa Lodge to get fuel and come back. This all worked out and we got into Lochsa right at 10 pm. We spent the night and woke up in the morning to a flat rear tire. The hits just kept coming. Day eight brought more technical singletrack and some of the most remote terrain I’ve ever ridden- the kind of stuff where you just can’t mess up. Any significant issue out here and it’s going to be a long time until someone comes to get you. Then we got into some trail that hadn’t been cleared and it was literally log after log after log. Some we were able to ride over, some we drug our bikes across and some we cut. It was really slow going. Towards the end of day eight we were in a seemingly endless section of logs and I distinctly remember coming round a corner and letting out a little whimper as I saw another long section of downed logs. It wasn’t pretty and it wasn’t fast but we all worked together and made our way through to Wallace.
The official end of the Tour Of Idaho is on top of Sundance Mountain near Priest Lake which is close the Canadian Border. The final day of the Tour takes you from the cool old mining town of Wallace over a bunch of ridges on dirt roads over to Athol, then some sections of Asphalt and more dirt roads up to Sundance Mountain Lookout. It’s one of those rides that would be an absolute blast on a big bike but on a small bike is a bit monotonous. We spent some time sitting on top of Sundance chatting and reflecting on the nine days that had preceded. We had seen parts of the world that almost nobody else visits, we had eaten fresh huckleberries at the side of trail, drank from a high mountain spring and met some amazing people along the way. It had been quite the ride and we all felt really thankful that we made it to the end. We had our fair share of problems but thankfully we managed to get out of them. Feelings aside nobody got hurt and we all had the adventure of a lifetime. Would we do it again? Probably not, but we would for sure go back to certain sections of the Tour, just on a bit more relaxed schedule with more time for hot springs, huckleberries and beer.
What is the Tour of Idaho? The Tour of Idaho is a dirt bike route that starts on the Utah border in Southern Idaho and extends almost all the way to the Canadian border in Northern Idaho. The 1600-mile nine day trip follows as much singletrack as possible and each night you stay in a different small town. The creator of the route, Martin Hackworth, has turned it into a challenge where you have to follow the route exactly. It’s a test of riding ability, endurance, navigation, friendships, mechanical skill and many other things. The way points are available online and you are free to ride the route as you please. However, if you wish to become an official Tour Of Idaho finisher you must join a FaceBook group, follow the rules, submit selfies at challenge points along the way, complete the challenge sections and submit a GPS file with your route within 72 hours of finishing. At the time of publishing, in over a decade only 55 riders have ever finished the Tour of Idaho. For more information visit www.motorcyclejazz.com. A special thanks goes out to Klim, Idaho Tourism and Motonation for their support of the trip.
Riders L to R: Tony Jenkins, Jesse Ziegler and Stephen Clark
When I read this brilliant article last year by Michael Uhlarik, motorcycle business analyst, I felt like the world had suddenly, finally, changed. “At last, they get it!” I mused as I read Michael’s words on how motorcycle marketers are missing the mark by portraying women as accessories rather than riders, how women ride bikes for precisely the same reasons men do, and how the motorcycle industry should start treating women as equally respected riders rather than lecturing them about small displacement motorcycles and pink gear. Naively, I expected a revolution in motorcycle marketing after the article appeared, but it hasn’t happened. Major motorcycling publications still recommend 400cc bikes to women, gear manufacturers still advertise women’s gear as “sexy” and women riders often get treated as rare, magical unicorns. Why is it that in 2018, we still need to rehash the same old complaints from a decade ago? “Motorcycle gear manufacturers are still marketing women’s gear to the male gaze - our stuff is generally not vented as well, doesn’t have as many pockets, isn’t as adjustable, isn’t as protective, because it all has to be sexy, slimming, and make us look good for the boys,” said Kate Murphy, a veteran adventure rider. “Just look at the names of some of the women’s motorcycle jackets online: ‘smokin’’, ‘heart throb’, ‘knockout’. Really? And when it comes to the mysterious “woman bike” – a motorcycle designed specifically for a female rider - unless it is done very, very carefully, it will come off as incredibly condescending and women won’t buy it. Besides, what is a ‘woman’s bike?’ I don’t control my motorcycle with my female parts, you know.”
Words: Egle Gerulaityte Photos: Paul Stewart
Marketing to Millennial Women If there is no magical “woman’s bike,” what can motorcycle marketers do to attract women? According to Jessica Dally, a long-time motorcycle rider and motorcycle marketing consultant, treating women as a different type of customer is one of the most common mistakes. “The language of ‘you only want this kind of bike’ or ‘this kind of gear’ or ‘you’ll never ride a big solo ride’ is incredibly patronizing,” Jessica explained. “For the motorcycle industry to change, it would be tricky. Stopping toxic behaviors would mean cutting off that sort of a customer, and I’m not sure the motorcycle industry is willing to do that... it’s a lot of their business. All that said, if they don’t make these changes they will continue to lose the millennial audience. Millennials are killing industries that aren’t willing to stop racism and sexism - they aren’t willing to pay money for that. But the motorcycle industry has been way behind in adopting to new ways of being.” Pat Jacques, a motocross racer, coach and owner of the ADV Woman brand noted that the best way to find those new ways of being is to start a dialogue. “The industry talks a lot about including women, but often forgets to follow up with action. They need to ask questions rather than give answers,” Pat explained. And there you have it: treating women as equal riders, actively including them in conversation, starting a dialogue and making a real, committed effort to end sexism in the motorcycle industry and community would sell a lot more motorcycles than ads with cleavage or suggestions that women should ride dainty, pretty scooters. I’m not in the market for a sport tourer right now, but if I ever decide to get a big, comfortable motorcycle, guess what will be at the top of the list? Honda Goldwing. Because of this ad. Words and images matter. Let’s change them.
bad roads bring good people.
Photo by Olivier de Valux, Montana
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YOUR ADVENTURE OUR PASSION At Rottweiler Performance, our focus has always been to ask the question, “How can we take these incredibly well engineered machines and creatively manipulate them into what we, as a unique consumer with personalized needs would want from a motorcycle?” That answer becomes your adventure, and our passion.
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Into the Wild Mongolian Steppe Words: Jon Florea Photos: Ana Hogas
From where we parked, the single-tracks look like wrinkles on a beautiful face; down there, there were as many chances for our resolve to crumble. In Mongolia, nothing happens as you expect. The elements are so powerful, they can physically prevent you from moving forward, and the lack of human presence is both thrilling and unnerving. I brush off the thought that if my 690 Enduro or Ana’s DRZ succumbed yesterday to the punishing terrain, or, if one of us had sustained an injury, we would have been on our own. Outside the capital and a handful of sleepy towns, Mongolia seems devoid of people. Most roads are raw, the landscape barren. Once you enter, from either east or west border, as the country meets both Russia and Kazakhstan at a dead angle, the evergreen Altai taiga stops and the steppe takes over. Roads fork ad infinitum; you can ride and camp wherever, pick any track, or switch off the GPS and do like the Mongols: carve your own path towards whatever cardinal destination, guided by stars and ovoos - those shamanic totems that nobody drives past without leaving some food and a prayer for benevolent gods. We have arrived in August, when the summer heat is just settling in. As old mold softens, furry edelweiss bracts scatter and cacti unfold in batches. The trails are perfect, each bivouac idyllic - Mongolia would be motorcycling Eden, if only the damn sky would stop crying. But since days back life’s been difficult, albeit in a fortunate sort of way. Water is surging across the land and creeks are becoming rivers, any with the potential to turn us around. By now I’ve lost count of how many we crossed; numb feet and miserably soggy everything else - from boots, to oats, to underwear - help us remember.
We pack and point the bikes to Tsagaannuur, rain drumming again against our visors. We’re hoping for a hot drink in a friendly place, and we find it at Janka’s, in a dim-lit room charmingly agglomerated with memorabilia: there are carpets woven with Buddhist symbols, plastic medals from school, and grand-grandparents in traditional garb, smiling eerily from weathered photos hanging on the walls. Janka lays the table. Raisins. Homemade cookies. We pull pickled sardines from Russia, bread, a knob of kurut cheese from Kazakhstan. Then she pours a cloudy concoction into bowls, and I take my first sip of Mongolian “tea.” Hmmm. Suutei tsai is a mixture of mare’s milk, butter and salt. “Sometimes real tea is added, for economy,” says Janka, who, like all locals, prefers tsai over drinking water. Three weeks of this may give me a heart attack, but I won’t complain about some lousy arteries: here, most cattle are sacrificed by end of summer, and milk is considered an almost sacred food.
We wheel off and run into a very Mongolian scene. Iron Man-like robotic exoskeletons from the future are mixing concrete, while meters away, a group of local herdsmen are sorting yak wool with their bare hands. One year from now, this will be done. Brand new Chinese tar will span border to border. Trucks will be trucking. Medical supplies, the world wide web, and the inevitable soda cans will be delivered across the country, and with that, some say, rural Mongolia shall be tamed. But not yet. Until capitalism arrives, the ATM in Olgii remains the sole harbinger of the new dawn.
M Y
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T RAI LSMART
Deeper into the highlands, the landscape becomes clean and orderly… like a computer wallpaper. Any man or woman with something on their mind should come here - bring no schedule and no fixed itinerary, ride, and let peace seep into your bones. The rewards are many: fast tracks, some up to 25 km long without a turn, and boy, can these get your ears buzzing! There are bold climbs, where shale crumbles like shortcake, slashing into our rubbers. There are washboards and loose rocks the size of kidneys that make my wheels drift. There’s dirt, in all its corrugated or sticky manifestations; and then, there’s sand. Lots of it, which is a test of nerve for short-legged 5’1” beginners like Ana. Watching her ride that super-modified DRZ, with its weird handling and whatever geometry a minimal preload and custom rear suspension linkages allows, gives me one panic attack after another. I know that if she goes down at this speed she could get properly hurt, so sometimes I fall back a couple of kilometers, for my own sanity. Luckily, at least one of us loves to feel the bike float. The 690 seems designed for it; it’s both nimble and brutal, a machine that redefines my notion of what’s possible; it may help that I’ve honed my skill on a much heavier and less powerful bike, while crossing the Congo, in what feels like an entire lifetime ago. In the intense heat of midday, our water consumption triples and the sandy track preys on mental fatigue. “We are in motorcycling limbo,” says Ana, as a bunch of wild horses zoom past. Suddenly, a distant dot starts blinking, and my delirium deepens. Is that an overlander? They could have precious intel about water - out here we have each other’s back; then the dot grows into Yuri, a Russian biker, and he says that we’re close to a well. I swear I almost huddle him up for a hug.
Days into the ride, our stoke for Mongolia keeps dialing up. We learn to favor freedom over comfort, to take what comes. Waking up under a sky so hot that makes our lips blister is lucky: the morning brew will need less fire to boil. A stream with clear waters can be home - as they say here, “the land is tough; the sky is far” but wait, why did they fail to mention mosquitos? We can’t camp on some insatiable insect’s watch! A broken irrigation pipe equals laundry and a shower. An ovoo offers shelter against rain. Most of the times though, ovoos are completely clogged with guano and the weather is stacked against us. Storms leave little time to act, and when they hit, they do the steppe justice. It’s like nomadic hordes advancing in one move. Tugged under our battered tarp, we watch the land crack open, knowing that when the roar ends, we’ll have a swirl of sleet to drag our bikes across. The ride continues with an unusually grim week. Sometimes happiness is difficult to appreciate as it happens, because your limbs are sore and your partner’s wrist is badly sprained in a stupid spill. But at least we’re nailing the endure part of this enduro trip. I must say that the inhabitants of this part of the world match their formidable homeland. Watching them dart on mopeds across the steppe makes me whistle the theme from The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. These gruff people know that Mongolia is a place to not come unstuck and are always eager to help. If we ask for directions, they debate strategies to escort us on horse. If we ask for water, they give us milk (vodka if we insist we’re really thirsty). Anytime we stop, curious folk arrive, and with our sign language more limited than our Russian, it is humor that eventually unlocks the barriers between us. We laugh with them when they kick our knobblies, when they push the kill switch, or give congratulatory pats that almost knock Ana over. At times the crowd rustles - enthusiasm so hard to contain, that a guy dressed in impossibly elegant silk sash may even burst into a song.
One time, we decide to ask permission to pitch next to a homestead. Many Mongols lead a semi-nomadic existence, so we find only the grandmother at home with the kids. A couple of rounds of sour tea and lots of giggles ensue, then we’re hustled into family chores: Ana milks the cow under direct supervision of 16-yearold Urt-Nasaan; I’m told to follow the boys. They seem engrossed in counting big, furry yaks. To a city-dweller like me this is a ferocious-looking creature, but out here a yak is just a cow drawn by a toddler. When they get bored with work, Nenkh-Bayr (12) spins a lasso, tosses it at Baah-Baaatar (4) and yanks. Bang! - he hits the floor laughing. These cowboy kids can certainly handle rough, just like they do extremes of weather, hard-tempered parents, or traveling alone to distant jai loos and back, without ever getting lost. Meanwhile, the burden of household lays on fragile shoulders: girls who cook and clean; women who slaughter chicken, fix furniture, and nurse babies without skipping a beat. Their coats aren’t cute or girly. Their hands are rusty, worn out from work. Their hair, dark as oblivion, is seldom wrapped in scarves – the only spark in a world where harsh wind stop trees from growing, where few words are spoken, and where what one needs, one simply takes. Over the night wind swirls and howls like an orphaned beast. Cows moo. Horses sputter. Inside his yurt, Baah-Baaatar cries, un-lullabied by grandmother, who doesn’t want him grow into a whiny adult. She also wants these summers spent with purpose, which is why she’s up at dawn, making arkhi. You’ve got to have some, she says, pulling us inside, where acrid, choking steam rises out of a huge pot. Apparently, we’re getting drunk this morning. Arkhi is a traditional spirit, distilled from the beloved milk. This stuff is strong! We try to breathe in and swallow up as little as humanly possible, while admiring the simplicity of the yurt. All Mongol homes are completely portable. A skilled man needs few hours to build or to dismantle the latticed structure that supports the roof and the circular skylight; then he wraps it in several layers of wool and water-resistant fabric, to ensure that the temperature inside remains constant.
In a classic scene from a 1940s cartoon, Tom and a rival are feuding over imprisoned Jerry, who attempts escaping from a sardine can. The mouse is quickly spotted. The alley cat grabs him, then points as if to order “Get back in the can!” I’ve been watching this in a grocery store from Numrog, of all places, because there is simply not a lot of shopping to do. The only food they have is candy, so, not unlike Jerry, I grudgingly resign to return to our bikes empty-handed and hungry. Fortunately, Ana’s found onions, a jar of pickles, and… is that the head of a broken doll? “Could be the one we need,” she says, and adds it to the lucky-charm collection that has been accumulating in her tank bag. This time, the voodoo works. Rains pause, mud stiffens, and we cruise to Tosontsengel, where a huge rainbow hovers over the first petrol station we’ve seen in a week. Once the bikes are refueled, we head north-east. Today we’re having Mongolian dirt for lunch and our road is tight and off camber and scarily exposed in places. Sometimes we can barely squeeze the front wheel around the bend. We relish every inch, and two hours later we are at the bare-boned Jargaland bridge - an omen of dozens I’ll be crossing in Siberia. We exchange high-fives, dusty and happy, thinking that we’ve finally managed to outrun a storm. But before we kiss, temperature drops to single digits, the sun dies into a blanket of cloud, and the promise of blizzard is fulfilled. Experience has shown that when the Mongol gods thunder, we must listen, so we start searching for a bivouac immediately. With visibility reduced to an arm’s length beyond my dashboard, I nearly run something or someone over. I hear a voice calling me to stop. A siren, I whisper. She’s come to guide us voyagers through the storm. We park, throw the tent on the floor, and follow the bundled-up, ear-muffed ghost into her yurt. Inside the nomads’ home, scarves fall, new wood is burnt, and dinner is laid. We try to unfreeze our hands at the open cooktop, while water and mud flows from our feet toward the entrance door. “Eat,” says Ertin Jaaral, picking for us the fattiest bits of meat from the communal plate. Heavily pregnant and home alone with two daughters while their father runs errands in another district, our host seems genuinely concerned that we’re riding bikes through this wild land. She calls her husband for advice, and promises a hearty breakfast tomorrow. I guess she thinks we’re idiots, but she really wants us to succeed.
The next day Ertin’s yurt feels too small for the crowd of neighbors and friends who’ve come to meet the strangers. They smile and say we should drink more milk. We hug. We take selfies with kids, many brown-skinned from sunny days on the steppe. Altin-Olzii (9) has to have a photo on his horse. When we leave, my eyes are dewy. But surrounded with so much beauty, with cranes and even a bald eagle roaming around, with frogs frogging and mysterious squeezels, well, squeezeling, one cannot stay sad for long. Besides, we know that our days in the steppe are numbered: after the last big river, it’s easy riding to the White Lake, and then this enduro playground will relinquish power to the tarmac, a sort of penance for all the reckless and incredibly fun things we’ve done. For now, we’re busy. Ana strips, to probe for the shallowest line and to spare her gear from another soak. As we cross, our eclectic audience - one shepherd, two helpers and their flock of sheep - seem quite entertained by the show. Then my girlfriend recovers her dignity fixing everyone a cup of tea, while I change a fuse.
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TESTED
BY ADAM BOO TH
RACE TECH - KTM 500 EXC SUSPENSION The 2018 KTM 500 EXC is a dual-sport machine with an enduro heart. It is designed to provide comfort off-road, and when we say comfort, we mean overly plush and squishy suspension settings. The stock XPlor suspension is fine for dirt roads or plucking your way through a creek bed in first gear, but as the speeds increase and the hits get bigger, the suspension just can’t keep up. The XPlor suspension was one of the major changes to KTM’s XC-W and EXC line in 2017 and carries over into 2018. The XPlor fork and shock are lighter than the previous suspension it replaces and inside the XPlor fork the internals are smaller and there is less valving. The shock body is now 46mm, downsized from 50mm. On the plus side the XPlor suspension is lighter, but the downside is that it is a cost-cutting decision. Sadly that cost cutting also decreases performance. The XPlor fork uses a single rebound adjuster on the top of the right fork leg and single compression adjuster on the top of the left fork leg. The compression adjuster on the XPlor fork has little effect on compression stiffness. The XPlor suspension isn’t as good as the suspension it replaced. If you never go over 15 mph or weigh only 150 pounds it might suit your needs, but chances are you’ll find the bike unbalanced and the front end too low. In order to gain adjustability of the compression in the XPlor fork, the internals (or rather lack there of) has to be addressed. More than likely a stiffer set of fork springs will be needed for anyone of any normal size and speed. The Race-Tech Fix Race-Tech starts off by installing their Gold Valve in both XPlor fork legs, which features compression and rebound. With the Race-Tech set up, the XPlor fork now has compression adjusters at the bottom of each fork leg and rebound adjusters at the top of the fork legs. With the Race Tech kit, the XPlor fork now has true compression and rebound adjustment and more adjustability performance wise. Race Tech installed their Hi-Performance 48kg springs, replacing the stock 45kg springs. Out back, Race Tech went with a progressive shock spring, a common route on non-linkage bikes. Internally the shock received the Gold Valve kit.
The difference in our 500 EXC was felt instantly just in the overall balance. With the stiffer fork springs and the improved oil flow control in the forks, the dive under braking and decel was gone and we could ride with more confidence knowing the front end would stay up and not collapse during any substantial hit. The overall stock squishy plushness is gone, but the ability to go faster is well worth the trade. The 500 EXC isn’t stiff or harsh, but thankfully the squishy feel is gone. Through rocky creek beds, we found the harder and faster we attacked the terrain the better the suspension reacted. It was also a welcome feel to be able to hit some whoops and bigger hits in third gear with momentum and not blow through the travel. Balance and feel were dramatically improved thanks to the work Race Tech performed on the fork and shock. Getting your suspension properly set up can seem a bit pricey, especially if you happen to fall outside the parameters of what stock springs can handle and have to purchase new springs during the revalve. Often riders rush out to buy a new exhaust system or a new wheel set, but haven’t even checked their sag. If you want to make major improvements to your EXC, start with revalving the suspension. We are roughly 99.9% sure you won’t be disappointed. Go to www.racetech.com for more information.
RACE TECH - KTM 500 EXC SUSPENSION
TESTED
BY Seiji ISHII
Rekluse RadiusX Auto Clutch Haven’t tried a Rekluse in your ADV bike? Maybe you should. Rekluse has been developing auto clutches for motorcycles since 2002, trail and dual sport riders widely accepting the technology. Rekluse expanded into bigger bikes in 2006, but reception by adventure riders hasn’t been as widespread. The Idaho-based company aims to change that with the RadiusX. We took delivery of the made in America auto clutch for a 2013 KTM Adventure 990 and put it to the test in the Texas Hill Country. Installation of the RadiusX isn’t much more involved than changing clutch packs. The auto clutch assembly requires few extra steps behind the clutch cover, and the KTM 990 model also involves fitment of an adjustable slave cylinder. If changing a clutch pack is within the mechanical ability level of the rider, then installing a Rekluse shouldn’t be an issue in this tester’s opinion. The RadiusX combines the EXP disk, which houses the “magic” behind the auto clutch function, with Rekluse’s TorqDrive clutch pack. How the EXP disk works: as engine rpm increases, centrifugal force causes wedges within the disk to migrate outward, increasing the width, which engages the clutch. Although simple sounding on paper, one can only imagine the trial and error associated with finding the correct wedge shapes, masses, and other factors that modulate clutch engagement, disengagement, and feel. Rekluse customizes all these factors for each bike model, and the wedges and springs can be changed to alter clutch characteristics if the rider desires. The externally adjustable slave cylinder (4 mm Allen key) required on hydraulic clutch bikes is necessary to lift the pressure plate off the clutch pack to make the space required for the EXP disk to function correctly. Adjusting this “free play gain” requires a specific method that becomes second nature after a few tunings. The TorqDrive clutch pack touts several enhancements over stock clutch packs, the primary one being the ability to house more friction disks within OEM clutch confines. The KTM990 OEM clutch accommodates eleven friction plates; the TorqDrive adds two plates, including the EXP disk. TorqDrive friction disks are thinner than stock units; the ability to add disks promises improved performance, durability, and tunability. Rekluse uses a steel core for these friction plates, which expand half as much as the standard aluminum-cored versions, theoretically reducing clutch fade. The TorqDrive friction pads are also designed to optimize oil flow, promising better modulation, control and crisper disengagement. Finally, Rekluse includes steel basket sleeves which provide a durable barrier against plates notching the clutch basket, a common wear point in OEM clutches. The TorqDrive clutch pack is available as a standalone product to fit within many stock clutch assemblies.
Rekluse RadiusX Auto Clutch
The Rekluse RadiusX for the KTM Adventure 990 behaved just like the version in my KTM XCW 450; it performed the touted claims remarkably well. The auto clutch engaged smoothly as the rpm climbed from idle; it never chattered or grabbed unpredictably. With proper free play gain adjustment, the engagement and disengagement points felt utterly natural, and there wasn’t any creep at idle with the clutch lever out. The RadiusX for this bike did require a long warm-up cycle to eliminate creep at idle and proper lever free play compared to the unit on the dual sport bike. The auto clutch never faded, even under heavy loads in the scorching Texas summer, and I never had to adjust anything to accommodate clutch heating. The Rekluse reduced engine braking dramatically (which I prefer, but not everyone does), and stalling became a long-lost memory. The one big drawback that emerged was the lack of the in-gear “parking brake” function of a standard clutch when the engine was off. The ability to lock the rear wheel with the transmission can be valuable after laying the bike down on a hill on these heavier and larger machines. Overriding the auto clutch function was just a matter of using the clutch lever normally. The sensation at the lever was almost the same as the stock configuration, with a slightly less “on-off” feeling at the initiation of pull. So, the auto clutch worked as advertised, but is it necessary for an ADV bike? On my XCW450, on terrain with tight turns, steep climbs, and dubious traction, I felt like the Rekluse was cheating. It made riding technical sections more manageable, clutch modulation no longer an issue, stalling eradicated, ham-fisting the throttle and other forms of sub-par riding technique miraculously forgiven. Overall, I experienced less fatigue and admitted to having more fun on longer days or multi-day rides. When I initially tested the Rekluse auto clutch on the dual sport bike, the intention was to remove it at the end of the testing period. I claimed dedication to proper riding technique and keeping things simple as reasons. The testing period has long since ended, but the Rekluse in the 450 is still in play. I feel the same way with the RadiusX for the ADV bike. Riding highly technical terrain was less frequent than on my dual sport bike, but it did happen, and the increased weight and size of the ADV bike amplified the beneficial effects of the auto clutch. These benefits were less frequently needed but more valuable when required. And in both bikes, durability, reliability, and overheating issues were non-factors. So, for this tester, the Rekluse will stay in the ADV bike. And if I have guilty thoughts related to disregarding proper riding technique, the clutch lever is still there, putting it all on me. MSRP: $649 - $799 www.rekluse.com
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Glaciers, Explosives and Hospitality Words: Egle Gerulaityte Photos: Paul Stewart
Flinching uneasily, I listened to a loud explosion echoing on the drab concrete walls, followed by enthusiastic cheers. Rocks flew across the hall hitting makeshift clay targets marked with small envelopes of dynamite, as men fired each other up and downed bottles of Aguila beer. This wasn’t some apocalyptic guerilla rally: tejo, a game of throwing smooth stone projectiles at exploding targets, is a beloved national sport in Colombia. “The rules are simple: each team plays for twenty-one points. You don’t pay to play, but each team must buy at least 18 beers,” Nestor Vargas, owner of the tejo establishment explained. On a good night, Nestor sells about forty cases of beer and his “Cancha de Tejo” bar is flourishing. Hidden in a dark back alley of Vila de Leyva, a small, beautiful town in the Colombian Andes, this tejo bar represents a different Colombia, one that tourists rarely see. Tejo is played by construction workers, farmers, day laborers – Colombia’s hardy blue-collar men who need a cold beer and some fun after a hard day’s work. Having parked our faithful DR 650s safely in a small inner courtyard of a local AirBnB, we joined a team of tejo players in Vila de Leyva hoping to find out what Eastern Colombia had to offer, and we weren’t disappointed. Here, in the mountains of Colombia, life had a different rhythm. We couldn’t wait to learn more.
Francis Drake vs Dolce & Gabbana As our ramshackle sailboat made its way into the port of Cartagena, Paul and I looked at each other quizzically. Gone were the small paradise islands of the Caribbean, the coconut groves and the shimmering white sand. Cartagena welcomed us with rows upon rows of skyscraper towers, its busy port bustling with ships and trade, its dainty marinas hosting luxurious private yachts and speedboats. The times of cocaine captains and pirates had ended. Twenty-first century Cartagena was all about business, tourism, and culture. After a smooth customs and immigrations process in a modern, air conditioned customs building, we spent a few lazy days exploring Cartagena’s old town – a maze of artfully restored colonial streets and buildings with an elegant European twist but a distinctly Colombian spirit and zest for music, food, and Caribbean energy. Cartagena’s townsfolk had forgotten all about the olden days of smuggling and buccaneering. Sporting Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses and carrying designer shopping bags and takeaway coffee cups, local Colombians hurried past, barely casting a glance at hapless tourists wandering around. Leaving the ancient walls of Cartagena behind, we headed south, aiming for Santa Cruz de Mompox, a sleepy nineteenth century town nestled in an island on the mighty Magdalena River. Meandering through endless swampland of the Magdalena Valley, the road took us slowly across a vast green country slumbering in suffocating, humid tropical heat.
Road signs warned of unruly monkeys, armadillos, and anteaters as we made our way down. Crossing the dark waters of the Magdalena River on a century-old wooden barge, we found ourselves riding a muddy track up a river bank and into Mompox – once a city of Spanish goldsmith mastery and victories of Simon Bolivar, now a quiet shadow of its colonial past, forever frozen in time on the banks of the Magdalena where caimans and iguanas bask in the sun and large monkeys stroll casually on the telephone cables and rooftops. It felt like a surreal dream of Colombia’s magical realism: “Mompox does not exist. Sometimes we dream about her, but she doesn’t exist”, Gabriel Garcia Marquez quotes a Simon Bolivar saying, and we couldn’t help but feel the same. It was time to head for the mountains. Having been stuck on a boat for weeks, we longed for some off-road tracks and trails, and it was the Eastern Andes that promised the best riding. Andean Hospitality Following the road towards Cucuta, we found ourselves a mere thirty miles off the Venezuelan border. Once in a while we’d spot a few lone pilgrims or entire families walking down the side of the road, carrying large backpacks and pushing carts or children’s strollers filled with their meagre belongings. Since the beginning of the Caracas crisis, Colombia has received over a million of Venezuelan refugees and the people kept coming: hoping for a better life, Venezuelans crossed into Colombia en masse.
As we headed for the Chicamocha National Park, the road soon turned into a narrow mountain track spiraling down a green river valley below. Here, Cartagena’s affluent streets suddenly felt like a different planet: in the mountains, horses and mules were the primary means of transport, farming was the main trade and sustenance, and Armani suits were replaced by thick woolen ponchos. Spotting a family of highlanders huddled around a small broken down moped, we stopped to offer help. While Paul fixed their little bike, I gave the kids – a teenage girl wearing worn out rubber boots and filthy denim pants and her brother in similar attire – some chocolates. Grinning, the kids devoured the sweets and offered me some fresh strawberries in return. “We were going to sell the strawberries in town,” explained their father, dressed in a traditional mountain costume, a poncho and a felt hat. “But the bike broke down. It’s very old, but it’s all we have,” he said, watching Paul work. Growing and picking strawberries, traveling for miles to make a few dollars – this was a simple reality of millions of people in the Andes. Perhaps that’s why Colombia received the Venezuelan refugees so warmly: Colombian or Venezuelan, they were all highlanders first and foremost. Colombian Renaissance Lost in the countless dirt tracks and trails crisscrossing the Eastern Andes, we couldn’t get enough of it all. Life became clear and straightforward: we’d get up early, cook a quick breakfast, saddle up our noble steeds and hit the trails, riding hard, traveling up and down canyon walls, crossing rocky mountain passes and sandy forest paths, down the muddy jungle trails and up the stark, windswept barrens of the high plateaus. Every night, we’d sleep in small, simple guesthouses in tiny villages, and get up again eager for another day of Andean adventure.
Even here, in the nameless little settlements of the highlands, change was evident. Although we’d still spot an occasional “Vote FARC” (FARC, Fuerzas Armadas de la Revolucion Colombiana, is a pro-communist guerilla group that had terrorized Colombia for decades, notorious for extreme violence, drug trade and kidnappings) graffiti on a derelict village wall, Colombia now wanted to forget its violent past. Instead of military checkpoints, there now were white-painted houses and family bakeries; instead of bearded guerillas wielding AK-47, village squares were now filled with English-speaking young people using free wireless Wi-Fi on their smartphones. Wherever we travelled, people smiled and shook our hands, told us about places we just had to see or roads we just had to ride. We talked about motorcycles with police officers, discussed avocado harvest with local farmers and exchanged gossip with shopkeepers. “I was once in love with a Canadian, but my mother fell ill, so I stayed in Colombia to look after her,” a woman from Cepita (which we dubbed the friendliest village in Colombia) told me in a mock-conspiracy tone. “I could have been a Canadian citizen. But now, I don’t regret it. Colombia has changed. We can finally look towards the future with hope,” she added, confidently.
Heart of the Mountains Colombia indeed felt full of hope: as we rode a narrow dirt track towards the Ritacuba glacier, waving to the iconic mountain horsemen sporting woolen ponchos, nineteenth century cavalry mustaches and wide-brimmed hats, we were overtaken by two flashy KTM Adventures with Bogota license plates. Adventure riding has arrived in Colombia, and it was here to stay. Brand new BMW GS 1200, Africa Twins and KTM’s zipped up and down the mountain roads around El Cocuy, a popular weekend destination for adventure motorcyclists of Medellin and Bogota. Trying to beat the tourist crowds, we chose a path less ridden: a narrow dirt and rock trail hugging the mountains at 14,000 feet attitude. Riding at a leisurely pace, we gradually climbed the barren peaks, cold alpine air filling our lungs, wisps of morning mist still clinging to the gorges and valleys below. Another twist around the corner, and suddenly, there it was: a glistening white wall of the Ritacuba glacier, crowned with a pearly white string of clouds. Here, the track turned into a boggy path leading to a lone farm in the distance, and it was time to turn back and head for Soata, a quiet mountain village West of the glacier plains. Flying over loose gravel and crossing bubbling streams of melted glacier water, we rode in solitude at 15,000 feet altitude, wild mountain deer and cold drizzling rain our only companions. It was 350 miles to Medellin as the condor flies, but we couldn’t leave the mountains just yet – and we knew that once we did, the Colombian Andes would stay with us for good.
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