Upshift Issue 28 December 2018

December 2018

Issue 28

LIMITLESS EXPLORATION HQ ADVENTURE GEAR RACE TO THE ENDS OF THE EARTH WITH CONFIDENCE. DESIGNED AND TESTED IN REAL SITUATIONS, THE HQ ADVENTURE GEAR OFFERS THE READY TO RACE QUALITY AND COMFORT YOUR ADVENTURE DEMANDS. AVAILABLE ONLY AT YOUR AUTHORIZED KTM DEALER

/ktmusa

Photo: M. Chytka

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations.

The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost. European specification model shown.

Issue 28 December 2018

nformation: These drawings contain information o Upshift. Any reproduction, or transmittal of this without expressed written consent is prohibited by partial or complete of the sord marks is prohibited ble to the full extent of the law.

December 2018

Issue 28

LOGO SHEET

THE INSIDER

Cover Simon Cudby

Love of Two Wheels

Design Chris Glaspell Photography Editor Simon Cudby

BLACK

Contributing Writers Adam Booth Suzanna Bostock Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Egle Gerulaityte

CMYK: C40 M30 Y30 K100

THE LATEST

LOST IN MONTANA

A TRUE ADVENTURE

Business Development Brandon Glanville

Contact: info@upshiftonline.com

CMYK: N80 Y100

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Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell

Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

INSTAGRAM TRAVELERS

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GEAR

Contributing Photographers Suzanna Bostock Tim Burke Stephen Clark Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx RTWPaul Adam Waheed

Want to advertise with us?

INSTA-ADV PMS 021

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South America horizontal onMoto black Guide

Making Your Way to Ushuaia and Back

Join us on Instagram at @upshift_online

IT WAS ALL YELLOW

Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online

CALIFORNIA’S High SIERRA MOUNTAINS

Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/upshiftonline

TESTED

23986 Aliso Creek Road P.O. Box 450 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677

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Upshift Magazine is published monthly

by Upshift Online Inc. 2018. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

ALPINESTARS ADVENTURE R KONFLICT SUSPENSION

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EXPLORING PERU

THE Ancash region

Love

Photo: Adam Waheed

of Two Wheels INSIDER: ADAM BOOTH

If you’ve taken a few seconds to start reading this, chances are substantial that you ride. You might ride an adventure bike, you might ride a dual-sport and you might even ride a Scrambler. As a warning, this isn’t a bash on Scramblers. I personally would own one if I didn’t love what a true adventure bike offers in comparison. On my path of life, paved roads are merely a way to get to the next section of dirt, which is not the path of a Scrambler.

Everyone loves a cool looking motorcycle and Scramblers are the definition of cool. They are simplistic, rugged, and generally make you want to twist the grip. They are not, however, a substitute for a true adventure bike. The reality is, a Scrambler is limited to how far it can venture off the pavement. They don’t have the suspension for hard core off-road, the gas range and luggage capacity are limited, and after a twelve-hour day in the saddle there is a distinct difference in rider comfort in comparison to an adventure bike. Today the Scrambler category describes more of a look than a purpose, which wasn’t always the case. The only dirt most modern Scrambler tires will touch is when they pull into the scenic overlook on a mountain road.

If the chance of experiencing a little taste of the world beyond the asphalt draws a new rider into the world of motorcycling through a Scrambler, it is a win-win for everyone. Adventure bikes are typically massive, expensive and intimidating. Scramblers have a cool look and bring with them the idea of adventure.

We live in a world of titles and labels. Society is all about what the other person thinks and what that person tells them what to think. The title “Adventure Bike” is a bit silly. A motorcycle ride is always an adventure and the category of the bike you do it on should have zero influence on the end result. But, if you feel that riding a motorcycle that is considered an “Adventure” bike will increase the chances of the experience being an adventure, make sure you hashtag adventure, adv and tag @upshiftonline when you get that killer shot of your bike in the elements.

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The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

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INSTA-ADV

Large 9.5” x 6” $25.00

Medium 8” x 5” $21.00

Mini 6” x 4” $17.00

Upshift is supporting Veterans Back 40 Adventure by offering a few select products in the Upshift store, with the majority of the profit going to the Veterans Back 40 Adventure program to help fund their next outing. The first of these products will be the DMADA Trail Essentials Pouch in MultiCam™. Made in the USA with USA sourced materials by a small independent brand in Boise, ID. Each pouch will generate the following donation to VB40A: Mini - $6, Medium - $8 Large - $10. In addition to getting a lifetime quality product, you will be helping a good cause and changing the lives of our veterans.

www.upshiftonline.com/store

Upshift - December

1. KTM Aluminum Skid Plate for Adventure 1090/1190/1290 If you’re planning to take part in a rally or a trip through the most impassable regions on earth or simply want to make your adventure look more like a rally bike - our skid plate makes it possible.

Heavy-duty design made of 6 mm thick, highstrength aluminum. Protects engine case and exhaust manifold. Protects against stone impact and damage due to bottoming out. MSRP: $299.99 www.ktm.com/en/ktmpowerparts

2. AMP Ultimate Radiator Guards KTM/HQV 16-19 Appalachian Moto Products presents billet aluminum radiator guards for KTM or Husqvarna. Anodized Orange, Blue, Black or Silver laser etched with AMP logo. Great lightweight aluminum protection that enhances air flow to the radiators. Fits; KTM 125/150 SX, 250/350/450 SX-F/ XC-F 2016, KTM 125-500 all models 17-19*, Husqvarna TC125, FC/FX 250/350/450 2016, Husqvarna 125-501 all models 17-19* Available in Orange, Black, Blue or Silver.

MSRP: $219.99 www.ktm-parts.com

OINTS

EARN P

DS REWAR

E

UR ADVENT Y R E V FOR E

#GetEquipped | http://AOMC.mx

THE ART OF UNDERSTATING HIGH PERFORMANCE

JACKET TRENCH GTX

Seamlessly blend into any environment, whether you’re riding in the city or exploring the great outdoors. The key functional features we wanted to incorporate in the new Trench GTX jacket were typical heavy-duty ingredients such as our unique, on-demand VCS|aquadefence ventilation system and the award-winning CE-level 2 SEEFLEX™ limb protectors.

WWW.REVITSPORT.COM

Upshift - December

3. RAM® Garmin Spine Mount Coming this January from RAM ® Mounts, the RAM ® Garmin Spine Mount clips onto the integrated spine connection on a wide range of Garmin GPS and satellite communication hand-held devices. Easily pair your Garmin handheld with any RAM® B size (1 inch) mounting base with the included B size diamond base adapter and hardware.

This allows you to take advantage of popular solutions like the RAM ® Twist-Lock™ suction cup, RAM® Tough-Claw™, RAM ® ToughTrack™, and much more. “RAM ® has been enabling Garmin devices for over 15 years in a variety of use cases” says Andrew DeDonker, Sr. Product Marketing Manager at RAM ®. “We receive emails and calls from customers every day asking us to make mounts for specific Garmin devices, so we decided to engineer a cost-effective, rugged mounting solution that would support more than 50 Garmin models at once, utilizing the integrated Garmin mounting spine.”

Head on over to www.rammount.com and sign up to be notified when the RAM ® Garmin Spine Mount is available for purchase.

Motorcycles deserve ATGATT* too!

*All The Gear All The Time

Take a look at our tested and proven adventure and dual-sport motorcycle armour selection.

Multifunctional Pannier Racks As the name implies our pannier racks serve multiple purposes and are compatible with a variety of soft and hard panniers.

www.outbackmotortek.com

KONA $169 graphics | $159 solid

Upshift - December

4. First Lite - Mountain Athlete Triad Sock Utilizing the most advanced knitting technology available, First Lite is raising the bar in one of the most important areas of your adventure clothing system, your socks. The Mountain Athlete Triad Sock uses three layers of material in a seamless construction to put the important elements of comfort, durability and padding where you need it and less where you don’t. Keep your dogs happy with the Triad. MSRP: $28.00. www.firstlite.com

5. REV’IT Discovery OutDry® Boots The Discovery OutDry boots are designed for motorcyclists who need the stability and safety of off-road boots, the features and user-friendliness of a tour boot and the comfort of a trekking boot.

The Vibram ® Apex Sole provides grip, stability and control, and the added multi density EVA layer absorbs shock while the anatomic foot bed makes the boot extremely comfortable. The clever Boa closure significantly reduces the weight of the boot and makes for a perfect fit with the simple turn of a knob. The laminated OutDry ® membrane keeps feet dry and the reinforced areas offer topnotch protection without making any concessions to comfort. Sizes 38-47.

MSRP: $499.99 www.revitsport.com

#VStromAdventures

Explore the entire family of V-Strom motorcycles at suzukicycles.com Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki trademarks or ®. © 2018 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.

Adventure runs in

the family.

Pack your bags. Go the distance. Bring back memories.

The new 2019 Suzuki V-Strom 1000XT Adventure and the new V-Strom 650XT Touring.

Superbly equipped for miles of adventures, these seriously capable machines feature side cases, a center stand, and a rugged accessory bar. Both are powered by an advanced, liquid-cooled 90-degree V-twin engine delivering smooth low to mid-range rpm torque and potent performance across the entire power range. Whether it’s the open road or the road less traveled, your next adventure starts with a V-Strom.

V-Strom 650XT Touring

V-Strom 1000XT adventure

Wide Open

Mikes Sky Ranch - Baja, Mexico

Photo: Simon Cudby

2018

Wide Open

San Francisquito - Baja, Mexico

Photo: Simon Cudby

2018

Wide Open

Mackay, Idaho

Photo: Stephen Clark

2018

SNOW MOBILE. Stash all the winter essentials light + tight with the Reckless 40. Our new drybags are super malleable and ready for the colder temps, are you?

Photo by Jesse Felker PNW Dual Sport

Find us on MOSKOMOTO.com or on ADVRIDER.com in the ‘Vendors’ forum.

#moskomoto

 

Wide Open

Skjolden, Norway

Photo: Tim Burke

2018

Wide Open

Big Holes, Idaho — Rider: Stephen Darcy

Photo: Stephen Clark

2018

Wide Open

Rally du Maroc — Rider: Sam Sunderland

Photo: Rally Zone

2018

Wide Open

Lundy Lake, California

Photo: Simon Cudby

2018

PROVEN UNDER THE TOUGHEST CONDITIONS

PRO PLUS+ is an ester fortified full synthetic 4T engine oil “Built For Adventure”. For use in all motorcycle brands: HUSQVARNA, KTM, BMW HONDA, YAMAHA, TRIUMPH, KAWASAKI, SUZUKI & more. Available in 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50 & 20W-50 Made in the USA

MaximaUSA.com

TREKKER OUTBACK Are you ready for Adventure? We are.

The GIVI Trekker ® OUTBACK series are the perfect complement to your desire for traveling, under any weather and terrain conditions.

Rugged, built to last and withstand the challenges of the open road, our Trekker ® OUTBACK series cases will hold and protect your gear all the way to your destination, wherever that might be.

• • • • •

1.5 mm thick Aluminum construction with polymer reinforcements Extra durable Monokey ® and Cam-Side mounting system Full range: 37 lt. and 48 lt. side cases, 42 lt. and 58 lt. top boxes Available in brushed aluminum or black, powder coated finish Water resistant and fully lockable

Find more than 1000 accessories at giviusa.com Discover giviexplorer.com the web portal for motorcyclists

LOST IN

N MONTANA

A TRUE ADVENTURE

By Olivier de Vaulx

Family rides do not sound exciting at first, but unlike most board games, you won’t be stuck forever always doing the same uneventful loop. With the American OHV system allowing legal rides in deep forests, it’s easy to live the thrill of real exploration with your kids. Just keep in mind that enduro is somewhat like Jumanji: If you start the game, you’ll have to finish. With everyone…

Having ridden with Julie, 17 years old, and Thomas, 14 years old, in Utah and Idaho for 3 weeks (see Upshift #26), the whole family was ready to discover some Montana trails. Once the two CRF250x and a CRF230F were loaded on the trailer behind the pick-up truck, the camping gear packed in the trunk, we started the long drive from Boise, Idaho, to Kalispell, Montana.

Maps and Network Our first stop in Kalispell is the Ranger Station, where we are offered a stack of maps. The ranger doesn’t know anything about dirt bikes, except that we’re supposed to stay on the designated trails, shown with a distinct pattern on the official maps. Randomly picking our first destination among these legal trails, we route a loop on our GPS. The same day, we enjoy a beautiful ride in the hills surrounding Ashley Lake, on a technical but fun single track. Most of the forks have a pole displaying the trails numbers, matching those shown on our map. The navigation is really easy, the ride beautiful, and Montana seems to be a perfect place for this kind of sporty family ride. After such a good start, we just want more and in the evening, we have no difficulty convincing François, a friend of ours who recently moved to Kalispell, to come with us on our next ride. Maps in hand, we trace a new loop. There’s no indication of difficulty on the map and to be on the safe side, we plan to do only 20 miles.

Hungry Horse Parking and unloading the pick-up truck in the late morning in the Hungry Horse forest, we don’t imagine that this name could be a premonition of the day to come. Even the parking lot’s name, Lost Johnny, doesn’t ring a bell. We start the bikes and warm up bodies and engines on the large fire road bringing us deeper in the valley. We’re not even surprised to see a black bear in front of us. The name of this trail is Spotted Bear, after all. The placid plantigrade moves quickly out of our way, and we just laugh. It was yet another disregarded sign of the Odyssey yet to come. The first part of the trail is technical: tight corners, steep climbs with roots, and a few rocky sections. It becomes increasingly challenging as the track goes hillside and narrower. The kids are struggling a bit but they’re in the mood for the challenge, especially since they’re rewarded by the beautiful scenery of the valley. It is worth saying that, with their forgiving suspensions and their torquey engines, the CRFs help us a lot in these technical sections. At some point, the trail goes down a dry stream, with plenty of rolling rocks. It’s not so easy to take it downhill but would be close to impossible on the way up. We’re halfway now and we know that we already passed the point of no return. There’s no way back! It doesn’t seem to be a big deal, as the trail stays technical but fun to ride.

Log Trap After 15 miles, a huge log acts as a natural gate, preventing any access. As a dad not being ready to show any sign of renouncement in front of his kids, I pass all the bikes around the fallen tree, fighting my way up on a slippery slope. With the elevation and the heat, doing this four times is exhausting. Luckily there’s still some water left in our bags and it’s relatively easy to cool down. The trail keeps going for a couple of miles until we reach another log. This one is bigger, and there’s no way around. We work as a team, first building some sort of steps using stones and wood. With no hospital in the immediate vicinity, nobody wants to take chances and jump over the obstacle. We opt for a slower but safer method, the kids pushing and pulling the bikes after I wheelie the front wheel over the log. It works, but it’s tiring, and again, we have to do it four times. From here, everything starts to be

a real challenge: from steep climbs in rocky sections to jumps over smaller logs, we fight for every step forward. The night is yet to come but our water supply is empty. Luckily, we found a snowfield. Before trying to pass through it with our dirt bikes, we kneel down on this natural white blanket and start filling up our empty bottles. The snow doesn’t melt, even when we put the thermal bottles against the exhausts, but having something cold in the mouth feels good. Refreshed but not yet hydrated, we cross the snow with difficulties, our knobbies doing a very poor job at keeping traction on this slippery surface. Reaching the highest summit, there are more logs waiting for us. Luckily, the kids become better at jumping over the small and medium ones, or to find a way around the biggest. At this point of the ride, the night is almost here but we have good reason to believe that the four remaining miles will be easier as the trail goes down in the valley.

Leaving the Bikes But our hopes are quickly crushed by two new impassable logs on a very narrow path. The night is advanced now, and we need to find a way out. It sounds like a dead-end at first, and it would be very easy to just sit and let despair take over. But again, being with kids you don’t allow yourself any weakness, and after scouting the trail by foot we discover that there’s a switchback a few hundred feet ahead. The side of the hill is very steep, but pushing the bikes through this steep slope to reach the trail further down seems to be a good idea. Especially since we don’t see how steep it is in the dark! By day, we wouldn’t even have tried it. While the youngest stays on the switchback with a small red lamp to give the overall direction, the three other riders start to go down the hill, in the hollow darkness, pushing each bike blindly through rocks, branches, and old logs. Often, the bike trips over a rock and bounces over our heads, bringing us with the motorcycle in a hazardous fall. Each time, more muscle and energy is needed to recover the heavy machine and put it back in the right way. An hour and a half later, the four bikes are finally back on the trail. It’s already midnight and it’s time to rest and eat. But our mouths are so dry that nothing can be chewed, let alone swallowed. We then start the bikes again and begin the slow exploration of the forthcoming trails. Fortunately, our CRFs have lights and we can see where to put our wheels. Not for long, though: another huge log is blocking our way. We’re too weak to move it away or to carry the bikes over. We decide that, with 3 miles left, it’s safer to leave our beloved motorcycles on the trail and to hike the remaining miles. But wait a minute! When everything goes wrong it’s always a good idea to ask mom for help or advice, right? We take the time to call mum, aka Caroline, the last member of the crew who was following our slow progress using the Spot satellite app. Once she understands that we’re all in good shape, we ask her to drive from Kalispell to the parking lot with François’s car and to wait for us with a supply of water, sodas, or whatever drinks she could find. It’s time to start the hike through the forest. My daughter Julie opens the way with her cell phone light, my son Thomas and I are following, and our friend François is closing the ranks with another smartphone light.

Walking in Bear Country From here starts a long walk in the pitch dark forest, with the heavy motocross boots and no water. The climbs are steep and the logs are slowing down our progress. Each step requires mental strength, and since we didn’t drink for a few hours, cramps are never far away. We keep singing and talking very loudly, just in case some bear would be in the immediate surroundings.

Of course, we don’t have any bear spray, but we are not natural born singers either and can’t imagine any wild animal being able to stay within earshot. The light of the moon can barely penetrate the thick canopy, but the phones LEDs are bright enough. Julie and Thomas are exhausted but they’re not complaining. They know it’s a serious situation and they switched to a kind of survival mode to keep walking, giving the adults a lesson on bravery. Each time a phone gets some service, we try to call Caroline, who went alone, at midnight, in the dark forest, hiking a very steep trail full of logs in an effort to meet us halfway. She knows there might be bears, but she can’t just wait at the parking lot while we try to find our way out. Her courage is a valuable incentive to keep moving when our bodies scream that they want to stop and lay down, which is obviously not an option, especially when you’re dehydrated. At 3:30am, we meet our savior: Caroline reaches us and we drink the best sodas and water bottles of our lives. Relieved to have the whole family finally reunited, we finish the hike all together, glad to share this experience. It’s 5:30 AM when we arrive at the pick-up truck.

Hard Recovery While we spend the next day resting, we also wonder why the ranger didn’t tell us anything about the trails not being maintained at all. Well, there’s a warning written in very small characters on the back of the maps, but in all the other states where we rode before, the legal trails were perfectly maintained. We definitely had no way to know we were going to be trapped in the forest, especially when we had taken the precautions to ask for advice from the officials in charge of the district.

We didn’t take any picture to document these moments in the heart of the night, but we know that the memories will never disappear. The following day, we buy a chainsaw and are back in the forest. We find a hiking trail not shown on any maps, which allows us to climb in the overall direction of the bikes. But we’re still talking here about a 2-hour hike, with our motocross boots! Arrived at the summit, we start to cut logs, until the chain of the chainsaw breaks. At this point, and after all that we went through in this area, we’re hardly surprised by this bad luck. We call it a day and hike back. But the game is not finished yet. Twenty-four hours later, we do the hike again, with two new chains, just in case. We thought we knew what to expect, but to our surprise, the remaining logs are already cut. What is happening here?

We walk faster and we’re soon relieved to find the bikes at the exact same place we left them three days ago. The noise of a two-stroke suddenly resonates in the woods as we see a group of 5 Montanans riding in our direction. They explain to us that the rangers are so understaffed that the local riders need to maintain the trails themselves. But they also state that they can’t believe that we could have gone so far on this trail, one of the most challenging in the whole state of Montana, without the help of a chainsaw. Well, at least that’s something we can be proud of!

Conclusion These members of the Alpine Crew stay with us, helping the kids to go through the hardest sections on our way back. Their kindness and their dedication to this sport is a great example and makes us feel better. Arriving at the pick-up truck with our four recovered motorcycles, we no longer feel like victims, but more like winners. The kids are so relieved that they can’t stop smiling. After having been so scared and not wanting to go back to the forest or to ride ever again, the two teenagers now talk freely about their experience.

On the drive back home, they explain how they feel stronger, ready for the upcoming challenges in their life. Although we obviously didn’t plan to be in such an extreme situation, riding their enduro bikes gave them the opportunity to measure themselves to the true adventure, to sharpen their spirit and their mental capacity, while tightening the bonds between the members of the family. Isn’t it what

makes dirt bike riding so unique? Only those who have tried would understand, but our adventures in Montana also proved two points: First, you should never underestimate the power of nature and riding enduro is always something to take seriously. Second, never ride alone, bring a ton of water, even for a short ride, a cell phone, and a satellite device. Expect the best, but just in case, plan for the worst!

Our experience also proved that, without proper maintenance, the trails in the wilderness are not only dangerous but also doomed to disappear. The moto community, who helps to maintain the actual network of trails, is an essential part of the local effort to preserve access to the wilderness for the generations to come. For at least this reason, off-road riding should be rewarded and be elevated to the status of a national cause!

Special thanks to: Jason Abbott at Honda Powersports USA for the loan of the three CRFs; Mark Finley and Katrina Curry who provided the Fox Legion gear for the kids; Devol Racing for the strong aluminum protections; Acerbis for the great headlight on the 230, the disk covers and hand guards; all the people who developed the OHV trail system everywhere in the country; the members of the Alpine Moto Crew who maintain the trails in Montana.

TRAILTECH.NET

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Words: Egle Gerulaityte

Images: @rtwPaul

A friend recently asked me, “So, how’s it going riding the jungles of South America?” She then inquired, “How do you get money there, by the way?”

I love her dearly, but questions like that make my left eye twitch a little. As we chatted, I was sipping a Starbucks latte that I had paid for with some crispy new Peruvian soles that I got from one of the myriad ATM’s in Lima.

The thing about South America is that, yes, it’s a vast and incredibly diverse continent; and yes, there are a few regions where wilderness reigns, like the snowy peaks of the high Andes or the vast, dense Amazon rainforest. But if you’re riding to Ushuaia, chances are, that’s not where you’re headed. The reality of riding South America is that it’s… easy. Traveling this beautiful continent isn’t an extreme expedition, it’s a journey.

So here’s what you need to know while planning your South American adventure: Getting There If you’re riding South from Canada or the US, you have a few options to get your bike to South America. One of the most popular ways to cross the Darien Gap is to sail on the Stahlratte, a hundred-year-old schooner that has been making the Panama-Colombia crossing for decades now. Sailing on the Stahlratte has become a rite of passage for many riders.

A cheaper option is to find a container on a ship. To bring costs down, share the container with other overlanders – some report paying as little as $300 for their bike to be shipped from Panama City to Cartagena. Once your bike is underway, you’ll have to hop on a flight to Colombia, so count those expenses in.

Finally, there’s an option of flying both yourself and your bike.

The cost of this varies, so keep an eye on airfare deals – you never know what may pop up!

If you’re shipping your motorcycle from outside the Americas, aim for the Valparaiso or Santiago ports in Chile – these are usually the cheapest and the least corrupt, which means you’ll get your bike out of customs quickly and efficiently.

Picking a Destination Once you’ve figured out how you’re getting there, the next big thing is your destination. Ushuaia is the most popular, but is it right for you?

Depending on your budget and timeframe, you may want to choose to only ride one or two countries in South America instead of dashing across the whole continent just to tick off a bucket list item. Tierra del Fuego, while a beautiful and captivating place, isn’t that extraordinary compared to the Peruvian Andes, Chilean Patagonia, or Ecuadorian volcano routes. Think about what you want to experience most in South America and plan your route accordingly: • Explore Colombia and Ecuador if your time is limited. Colombia is a very unique and incredibly hospitable country with friendly locals, great riding, and good food, while Ecuador offers a compact version of the whole South American continent: here, you can kick back at the beach, ride up to the high Andes, and dip down into the Amazon all in two or three days.

• Ride around Peru if you love stunning landscapes, pristine nature, indigenous cultures and incredibly diverse scenery.

• Do a Chile-Bolivia-Argentina loop if you long for desolate, otherworldly scenery, the largest salt flats in the world, high deserts, dizzying Andean passes and the wilderness of Patagonia.

Better yet, mix and match: design a route that’s most inspiring to you!

Staying Safe Much like with any other non-Western destination in the world, horror stories about South America are abundant. What if you get robbed? What if your bike breaks down? What if, knock on wood, you’re injured?

All of these concerns are valid, but do not let fear dictate your decisions. Most South American countries (yes, including Colombia) have become very safe and peaceful in the last decade, and while you can run into trouble just about anywhere in the world, traveling in South America is quite safe. Use common sense, do not behave like a hapless tourist, have medical insurance, keep your valuables close by and bike parked safely, and you’ll be just fine!

The vast majority of local people in South American countries are incredibly friendly, hospitable and curious and they are usually more than happy to help you out. Learn at least a few basic phrases in Spanish, always be kind and polite, smile a lot and simply talk to people, and you’ll have a great experience!

Bike Parts and Tires Always make sure your motorcycle is in top condition before you leave. But if you do break down or need a new set of tires, don’t panic: adventure riding has already arrived in South America, with local riders enjoying all those BMW GS’s and Africa Twins just as much as we do. Plan your route around major cities if you know you’ll need to maintain your bike and change tires: Bogota, Medellin, Quito, Lima, Santiago and Buenos Aires all have excellent bike shops and maintenance services.

Finding the Best Routes Don’t want to sit on the Panamerican highway all the way to Tierra del Fuego? You don’t have to! South America is a heavenly paradise for off-road riding, so do a little research and get off that pavement.

Advrider and Horizons Unlimited forums are great places to start looking for route suggestions, while ADV Tracks and Wikiloc are fantastic for GPX file downloads. Use Open Street Maps to update your GPS with the newest mapping. Finally, talk to the local riders on social media: most of the time, local motorcyclists are thrilled to share their favorite haunts and rides with foreign travelers.

To plan your stays and dinners, download the iOverlander app – probably the best travel aid there is. iOverlander is constantly updated by travelers like yourself and it’s one of the easiest ways to find accommodation, food and interesting waypoints on your journey.

Dealing with Border Crossings For some reason, the thought of crossing borders instills absolute dread in many riders. While some border crossings might be a little trickier due to delays or the volume of traffic, most South American borders are in fact very easy and simple to cross.

All you need is your passport and motorcycle registration: upon entry, you get a passport stamp indicating the allowed length of your stay at the immigration office and a temporary vehicle import document at the customs office. That’s all you need! When you leave the country, just get an exit stamp and hand the motorcycle import document back. Luckily, no South American country requires the often costly and complicated carnet de passage, so you’re good to go!

Introducing ADV & Dual Sport Footpegs

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Food, Accommodation, and Money There is no shortage of food and accommodation in South America, even in the small, remote villages: you may have to do without hot water or air conditioning sometimes, but finding small homestays and guesthouses isn’t an issue anywhere. In bigger towns and cities, you’ll find better hotels, supermarkets, restaurants and yes, even Starbucks!

If you are planning to head somewhere extremely remote, pack your camping gear: wild camping is legal in most South American countries, providing you’re not setting up shop on anybody’s private land. In Argentina and Chile, especially Patagonia, organized campsites are plentiful while in Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia, you’re better off camping just about anywhere you like (again, excluding private property).

When it comes to food, the local cuisine in South America is incredibly diverse. On the coast of the Pacific, be sure to order ceviche – local dish of raw fish and seafood, marinated in lime juice. In the Andes, try a roasted guinea pig or an alpaca stew and in the Amazon, treat yourself to local fish or chicken with rice, wrapped in banana leaves.

As for money, ATMs are abundant in all cities and bigger towns (as well as the majority of villages), accepting all major credit and debit cards. If you’re riding some more remote places, be sure to always have cash on you as people in the smaller villages and settlements may not have card readers, but you can pay by card in all bigger cities and towns everywhere – restaurants, hotels, supermarkets and bike shops.

Still have questions or concerns? Talk to other riders who have just come back from South America or are traveling there now. Most riders are more than happy to share their experiences and insights.

If South America is your dream ride, stop dreaming and start planning: the best time to go is now!

YOUR ADVENTURE OUR PASSION At Rottweiler Performance, our focus has always been to ask the question, “How can we take these incredibly well engineered machines and creatively manipulate them into what we, as a unique consumer with personalized needs would want from a motorcycle?” That answer becomes your adventure, and our passion.

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Riding your adventure bike doesn’t always have to involve an exotic destination or over-the-top challenging trails to have a good time. In late fall, Randy Commans (@my1090R) and I loaded up our Suzuki V-Strom 1000 bikes with our gear and our much better halves, then headed to the High Sierras in California to chase the changing fall colors.

Apparently timing is everything when trying to capture photos of this annual phenomenon, and as it turns out our timing was pretty much spot on.

North of Mammoth Lakes we found Lundy Lake.

Although very busy in the summer months, once the leaves start changing color the area is very quiet, albeit for a handful of fishermen.

M Y

B I K E .

M Y

A D V E N T U R E .

M Y

D U N L O P S .

HOW DO YOU ROLL?

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T RAI LSMART

We spent several days exploring the area in 2-up formation with Amy and Sheryl sitting comfortably on-board, just cruising around with nowhere in particular to be. Sometimes the little adventures are the best.

ENGINEERED FOR ADVENTURE C A R L S B A D JAC K E T & PA N T The Carlsbad was conceived of the need for highly mobile, highly vented and minimized bulk adventure gear – all while maintaining KLIM’s highest abrasion resistance and durability standards. Specifically designed to handle the rigors of on and off-road riding, the Carlsbad integrates vastly improved venting and mobility, as well as an optional kidney belt, over the Overland series that preceded it.The Carlsbad is the essential ADV setup for riders looking for a no-compromise streamlined package of high mobility, comfort and durability.

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TESTED

BY OLIVIER DE VAUL X

Alpinestars Venture R Gear This summer, Alpinestars introduced a new line of enduro gear, the Venture R. We had the opportunity to try these jackets and pants on a real adventure. Where else other than in Upshift can you find a 15-day test session?

Alpinestars has many heavy-duty jackets for street, adventure bike, and motocross segments but there was nothing much for people seeking technical trail gear on dual-sport or enduro bikes. The Italians took their time, and now the Venture R is available worldwide.

But does it fit our needs?

Lightweight The construction uses the best material to offer a light and waterproof jacket and pant, with some zippered intake vents to provide proper ventilation during technical riding. Inside the Venture R jacket, we found a compartment to sneak 2 quarts of water in a Camelbak (not included). As the jacket is designed to stay light, there are no shoulder, elbow or knee protection inserts, or any pockets to slide in a pad. Alpinestars designed the jacket and the pant to allow room for the braces or armor that most dual-sport riders like to wear underneath. The construction also includes reinforced materials in these areas. The external polyester is durable enough to resist the abrasion in the event of a fall, while mesh materials let the gear stretch for comfort. The collar received some extra attention with smooth microfiber fabric, while the zippered sleeves can be removed. There are two large pockets on the front of the jacket. Surprisingly, the pant doesn’t have any pockets, which means that you may need a backpack if you’re using it with a jersey. Specially designed for enduro use, the Venture R jersey is long enough to fit in the pant, while the pre-curved sleeves and the vented mesh let it wick the sweat.

TESTED: Alpinestars Venture R Gear Testing in the Cold Our Pacific Divide journey for Upshift Issue 27 would take us from the Canadian Border to the border of Mexico. Starting in Washington, we experienced daily temperatures around 27°F. While 27° is not that bad when you’re hanging out in the parking lot, the jacket does an excellent job of keeping the body warm inside. It quickly becomes cold when the speed picks up on the gravel roads.

With an adventure bike and a fairing it’s perfectly manageable, but on our exposed DRZ400, taking the arctic air at full speed to our upper body, it was definitely freezing. Luckily, the collar was high enough to block the air flow. Even if the Venture R jacket is not designed to keep you warm in these conditions, it cuts the wind pretty well and adding some extra layers is often enough. Of course, if we were heading north to Alaska, we would be better off with the new Andes Pro jacket.

Testing in the Rain Riding in Oregon, you have to expect some rain. We found out that the Venture R pants and jacket were doing an excellent job of keeping us dry. Enduro gear from other brands that we tried in the same conditions didn’t do as well as the Venture R. When it was pouring we admit that we stopped the test and jumped into our rain suits. The plastic shell of the rain suit helped, but made us sweat.

Indeed, unlike the Venture R, this plastic cover was not breathable! The paradox was that we ended up being wet with the rain suit while we could have stayed dry with the Venture R alone. Go figure!

Testing in Warm/Hot Arriving in California, we had better weather and the temperature was rising above 80°F. Opening the vents located on the sleeves, the front of the jacket and the legs of the pants is easy and very efficient, as long as you ride fast enough to have some air flow. When it was getting technical, or when we slowed down to embrace the magnificent scenery, there was nothing much that the functional material could do, but the breathable layers helped reduce the sweat. Folding the jacket was an option, but most of the time, removing the sleeves paid off. The zippers were a little bit too small to make it really easy though, especially after a few days riding on dry trails. The microscopic particles of dust tend to block smaller zippers. More prominent zippers, in this case, would have been better even if it meant ending up with heavier jackets and pants.

TESTED: Alpinestars Venture R Gear Wear/Scratches After 15 days on the trails, the Venture R gear was pretty dirty. But when washed and dried, they looked like new with no scratches or marks of any kind. We inspected all the seams and zippers without finding any issue. The colors didn’t fade either, the collar was not torn down by our beards. After this really long and hardcore test, we can definitively state that the Venture R proved to be super reliable and suitable for long enduro rides in warm to reasonably cold and humid weather. www.alpinestars.com

Pros:

Cons:

• Warm but breathable

• Lack of colors for jacket and pants

• Windproof

• Zippers a bit too small

• Waterproof in moderate rain

• No pocket for the pants

• Removable sleeves • High and comfortable collar • Compartment for Camelbak • Lightweight

Go to www.alpinestars.com for more information.

• Jacket; $219.95. Sizes: S/M/L/XL/2XL/3XL. Colors: Black, Black/Blue • Pants: $149.95. Sizes 28-40. Color: Black • Jersey: $49.95. Sizes: S, M, L, XL, 2XL. Colors: Black/Blue, Black/Red, Black/Orange

REVENANT GORE-TEX® PRO JACKET

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TESTED

BY CHAD DE ALVA

KONFLICT SUSPENSION TUNING KTM suspension comes from the factory setup for a rider who weighs between 165 and 185 pounds when they’re all geared up and ready to ride. So if you own a KTM with stock suspension and don’t fall into that weight range, your suspension isn’t going work like it is designed to. This means you’re not going to get the benefit of all of that fancy engineering and geometry that explains your bike’s price tag, and you’re going to leave performance on the table. Yet, a suspension setup tailored to your specific weight and rider attributes will enable you to take full advantage of that awesome geometry and can actually help you find more performance in your bike than the stock suspension could ever provide. I recently sent the WP X-plor forks and PDS shock from my KTM 500 EXC-F to Konflict Motorsports to see just how much performance I had been missing out on.

In my case, I stand six feet two inches tall and weigh 170-175 pounds.

Yet by the time I’m fully kitted out and ready to ride, I’m usually tipping the scales at around 205 pounds because, camera guy problems. So needless to say I’m way too heavy for the stock suspension that my bike came with. Out riding, I would notice the suspension doing things that would cause me to slow down because I knew the bike’s overloaded suspension wouldn’t like what I was about to put it through. The WP Xplor forks are known for being harsh on square edged hits and diving under braking, but the big thing that gave me pause was the bike bottoming out on big hits. Call me crazy, but I’ve never had the desire to introduce my face to my handlebar mount or to get a soil sample from slamming into something on a trail, bottoming out too hard, and getting tossed to the ground.

Konflict Motorsports performed their KM2 level service on my forks and shock, installed springs that matched my riding weight, and added a number of special parts that all work together to significantly improve suspension performance. In the forks, an InnTeck mid-valve (that Konflict helped test) was added to the compression fork leg along with high flow pistons and low-speed compression adjusters on both fork legs.

TESTED: KONFLICT SUSPENSION The shock received a progressive spring, and SKF heavy-duty seals and Maxima Light fork fluid were used throughout.

Konflict had my suspension for only a couple of weeks, and I received my suspension back shortly before leaving for Klim’s CowTag ride in Idaho.

The moment I pulled my bike off the work stand in my garage I felt a huge difference in my bike’s suspension. The forks actually felt like they could hold up my weight and the bike sagged right to where Konflict said that it needed to be. My first ride in Idaho was a dozen-mile dirt road commute to a section of two-track trail that I needed to check for downed trees and access to some single track at the other end. On the dirt road, I instantly realized that brake dive was no longer a thing, and my bike’s handling felt much more agile now that I was sitting at the correct place in the suspension stroke while riding. It only took boosting off of the first bar ditch on the two track to realize that my suspension could now actually soak up big hits, but just to make sure, I launched the bike off every hit I could find. I was very impressed with how plush Konflict’s setup made the bike while charging through the rocky sections of trail (creek beds and scree fields of rocks) and how well the bike stayed glued to the ground when I wanted it to. Essentially, I found myself needing to completely re-evaluate how I approached riding, as I felt like I was riding a completely different bike.

If you’re looking for a bike upgrade that will help make you a better rider, make your riding more enjoyable, and give you more confidence, you need to get your suspension setup for yourself. If you weigh more or less than what your bike’s target weight is (it’s in your manual, or Google it) the need to get your bike’s suspension correctly setup for you is even greater. With the right springs, valving, and other goodies that make the suspension work better than stock, your entire approach to riding will change and you’ll find yourself having a whole lot more fun while out riding.

Konflict Motorsports has been an outstanding company to blindly send $3500 of dirt bike parts to, trusting that even better parts will come back. I am always able to reach them by phone or email, and they do a great job of answering questions and providing guidance and setup advice. If you want to take full advantage of what your bike is capable of being, I can’t think of a better way to spend your money than on a suspension service. www.konflictmotorsports.com

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Photo: Gnarly Routes

Photos and Words: Suzanna Bostock www.AvVida.co.uk

Peru has some of the most amazing roads I have ever had the pleasure to ride, and one area which was particularly awe-inspiring was Huascarán National Park in the Ancash region. The area is truly spectacular, surrounded by snow-capped mountains towering up to 22,204’ (6768m) and forming part of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range. Getting off the beaten path is one of our main goals, and it’s definitely rewarding.

Having purposefully hunted out the roads less traveled we’ve stumbled upon some of the most beautiful locations we’ve ever seen, and in Peru places like this are in abundance.

A year before this adventure I had only been an asphalt warrior. However, in order to enable myself to make the most of my travels, I was determined to get confident off-road with the help of some good friends and it has certainly paid off.

We had made our way up through central Peru, winding our way through the Andes, following the numerous, maze-like mining roads. The GPS was a little redundant at times, however because of the mining industry in the area the roads were reasonably well marked.

On our route from Huallanca to Huaraz, we took a small back road leading across the mountains. It was my first ever experience of riding in snow. I must confess I felt a bit nervous, I got that fluttery feeling in my stomach as I looked at the blanket of white that lay before me, my palms would have been sweating if it wasn’t so cold, but I decided to go for it.

To be honest, despite a little bit of snaking on some iced up puddles covered in snow, it actually wasn’t too bad. Having already ticked off my first sand riding experience in Peru, I had now also completed my first snow ride! Phew! The reward was getting to the Pastoruri Glacier. With the viewpoint being at about 16,732’ (5100m), the walk up from the car park was a struggle due to the lack of oxygen, made worse being in full bike kit, but it was well worth it. Getting there before any other tourists was advantageous and allowed us time to give the drone a quick fly before the snowstorm hit. To say it was cold was an understatement. It was bitter! Hiking back down was much easier and a coffee to warm up was most appreciated.

On exiting the park we also got the added bonus of an awesome dirt road. On route we came across some huge plants we’d caught glimpses of before, aptly named “Queen of the Andes” or ‘Puya Raimondii’ for those of you who like the proper name for things. They were huge, and apparently some reach an amazing 49’ (15m) in height.

Huaraz was touristy, as we knew it would be, however for us it was a perfect base for a couple of days whilst the bikes had a little TLC before we went off to explore. Much to our delight, we met up with a local motorcyclist who took us to some of the little known viewpoints around the city, which allowed us to really appreciate the magnitude of the surrounding mountains.

There are a couple of options to cross the Cordillera Blanca, so we decided to do a circular route venturing in all four directions.

It cost us just a few dollars to get into the National Park at the entrance deep down in a huge valley, and we were rewarded with a few days of spectacular riding. The road was tarmac, but fun as it switched back and forth, disappearing into the distance.

All around was pointy white mountain peaks, trickling waterfalls and the immense view of the valley floor below. The road is home to “sector de las mil curvas” or “1000 corners section”, with a length of 16 miles (26km) and 46 hairpin turns. The temperature was steadily dropping again as we reached the dizzy heights of 15,542’ (4732m), passing through the famous Punta Olimpica tunnel. At this height it’s said that oxygen is about 40% less than at sea level! Luckily, having spent most of the past week at over 9,842’ (3000m) our bodies had gotten used to it, although getting on and off the bike for photos still took its toll on my breathing. On some occasions I felt like I had a Llama sitting on my chest!

At the end of it all we reached the small town of Chacas, with its beautiful, hand-carved balconies made by the Don-Bosco Artisans. They surrounded the main square, adding to the town’s charm and at the head of the square was the picturesque white church, where people regularly gathered. It was such a tranquil place, and the best part... there were no tourists in sight! Many elderly folk sat around chatting happily or wandered around the square with their wonky tree-branch walking sticks.

While taking in the culture and scenery, this tiny enchanting town captured our hearts for three days. We then departed on to what was one of the best rides of our adventure so far. We decided to take the small back roads across to Yanama and it was fantastic. The road was pure dirt and picturesque with local farmers herding their pigs, sheep and cows all together up the small tracks, most smiling and waving as we chugged on past. The people in the mountains are a hardy bunch and I was especially fond of their bright and colorful traditional clothing. The ladies worked hard, their babies or toddlers tied on their backs with colorful cloth, and the older kids mucking in with the day to day chores.

The day was packed with endless dirt roads, and breathtaking scenery but my bike just ate it up. There were only a handful of vehicles that we came across in those few hours, all locals going about their daily business. Just before we thought it couldn’t get any better we passed through a gateway of rocks and the valley just opened up before us. Jaw-dropping doesn’t come close! Not only were the frozen, white capped mountains towering above us, to our right was one of the most amazing switch-back roads we had ever seen carved into the mountain side, and in front of us was the brilliant, piercing aqua blue colored Llanganuco lake, that disappeared off into the distance, enticing us to come down and see it. It was magical, one of those moments you only dream of when you set off on your adventure. We must have spent a good hour sitting there taking in the surroundings before negotiating the twisties of clay and rock down to the lake side. What a day!

After a night in nearby Caraz, our bikes having taken shelter in the garage come wood mill, we headed out to nearby Cañón del Pato, with its numerous tunnels. There’s something strangely exciting about venturing through long tunnels on a burbling 4 stroke motorcycle, and the ones in Cañón del Pato were no exception with over 35 dark tunnels carved through the rock in the gorge, continuing for about 28 miles (45km). Most of these were only one lane and occasionally so long there was no way to tell if another vehicle had already entered at the other end. Fortunately we only had to make one evasive action to avoid an oncoming truck. However, the bonus of being on a bike is that you can squeeze up against the wall of the tunnel in order to let any vehicles go past. Easy peasy and only mildly scary. On the other side of the gorge the road continued and the changing colors in the rock were dramatic, rugged yet very alluring.

Following our tunnel fun, it was off to Lake Parón and mount Pirámide, which is said to be one of the mountains where the inspiration for the Paramount Films logo came from. Heading back towards Caraz and after the short tarmac section it was back to the delights of the dirt road. I was very glad not to have all the luggage with me because of all the loose rocks and stones on the way up, although it was definitely fun. It wasn’t a road I would relish tackling on a street bike, however, on our zig-zag climb up to the lake, we passed a Colombian motorcyclist slowly making his way up with his street tires. I admired his determination and we waited to greet him at the top. Sadly the clouds were concealing the peak of Mount Pirámide, however it was still well worth the effort. The dazzlingly blue lake was so calm and tranquil, with a little, weathered wooden row boat sitting on its shore which made for an excellent photo. A couple of ‘loco’ travelers decided it would be a good idea to brave the waters in just their underwear, however their adventure only lasted about 10 seconds due to the freezing temperatures, and they were soon wrapping up again. For me, I just felt so fortunate to be in a place like this on my bike.

I can’t say it enough, but getting off the beaten track, especially on a motorbike is unbelievably worth it. The sights, the people, the culture and the adventure make it priceless, and Peru is definitely a country worth exploring. Get it on your adventure list!

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