Upshift Issue 29 - January 2019

January 2019

Issue 29

LIMITLESS EXPLORATION HQ ADVENTURE GEAR RACE TO THE ENDS OF THE EARTH WITH CONFIDENCE. DESIGNED AND TESTED IN REAL SITUATIONS, THE HQ ADVENTURE GEAR OFFERS THE READY TO RACE QUALITY AND COMFORT YOUR ADVENTURE DEMANDS. AVAILABLE ONLY AT YOUR AUTHORIZED KTM DEALER

/ktmusa

Photo: M. Chytka

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations.

The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost. European specification model shown.

Issue 29 January 2019

rietary information: These drawings contain information rietary to Upshift. Any reproduction, or transmittal of this mation without expressed written consent is prohibited by Any use partial or complete of the sord marks is prohibited punishable to the full extent of the law.

January 2019

Issue 29

LOGO SHEET

THE INSIDER I HEREBY RESOLVE TO...

Cover Olivier de Vaulx Design Chris Glaspell Photography Editor Simon Cudby

INSTA-ADV

BLACK

Contributing Writers Deborah Azzopardi Suzanna Bostock Tim Burke Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Scot Harden

PMS 021

INSTAGRAM TRAVELERS

RGB: R255 B255 G2550

RGB: R255 B80

CMYK: C40 M30 Y30 K100

CMYK: N80 Y100

GEAR THE LATEST

Contributing Photographers Suzanna Bostock Tim Burke Stephen Clark Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx

horizontal on white

PORTUGAL EUROPEAN ADv HEAVEN

Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell Business Development Brandon Glanville

CALIFORNIA BDR

RIDING THE NEW ROUTE ON A HONDA CRF450L

Want to advertise with us?

horizontal on black

Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com Contact: info@upshiftonline.com

TESTED

Join us on Instagram at @upshift_online

Dango Designs Gripper Mount Shinko MX 216 and Cheater 505 tires FASTWAY Evolution Air Footpegs

Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/upshiftonline

Pillion PREJUDICE 23986 Aliso Creek Road P.O. Box 450 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677

vertical on black

Upshift Magazine is published monthly

by Upshift Online Inc. 2019. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

A Passenger’s VIEWPOINT

vertical on white

EXPLORING BOLIVIA 4086 SQUARE MILES OF SALT FLATS

I Hereby Resolve INSIDER: SCOT HARDEN In my last Insider column I pointed out what a particularly good year 2018 was for adventure motorcycling, and as it draws to a close I’ve been pondering how to show gratitude for the year that was. Here are three New Year’s resolutions I plan to make showing my appreciation:

1. Celebrate the journey. I recently spent six days in Baja and was reminded all over again what a truly special place it is. A big chunk of my life was spent chasing racing glory in Baja, taking huge risks, dealing with factory pressure and personal expectation for results and now for the first time in a long, long time I enjoyed Baja for what it is; a magic land and people! Each of us have been traveling our own journey and have discovered places that resonate spiritually, special destinations with special meaning from bye-gone times. In the coming year I resolve to visit places from my past and experience them with new eyes and a youthful heart. I look forward to celebrating the journey that got me where I am today.

2. Stay humble. Be grateful. The more time I spend contemplating life from behind a set of handlebars the more humble and grateful I am.

We live in a materialistic, extremely polarized world where everything and everyone is screaming for attention and a piece of your soul. Motorcycling insulates and grounds us; it forces us to stay in the moment, focused on life’s essentials; in my case friends, family, and the Good Lord above. In 2019 I resolve to remind myself of these priorities every time I ride.

3. Pay it Forward. Advocate. Bring new riders to our sport. I started the Plus1Rider Initiative to encourage current motorcyclists to inspire non-riders to give motorcycling a try. It’s a duty and an obligation. The more motorcyclists, the better place the world becomes and the stronger our collective voice. No one is in a better position to impact the future of motorcycling than existing riders. I resolve to bring at least one new rider into this world in 2019.

Feel free to adopt any of the above resolutions and make them yours, especially the last. You won’t need a gym membership or to go on a special diet to receive benefit. All you have to do is ……. Get out and Ride! Happy New Year and Safe Riding in 2019!

ve to…

Follow

Follow

Follow

Follow

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

Follow

Follow

Follow

Follow

INSTA-ADV

Motorex Power Sy Ester-based engin performance for y

ynt 4T is a fully synthetic PAO and ne oil, the ultimate in quality and your peace of mind.

motorexusa.com

Upshift - January

1.

Rekluse Introduces Billet Slave Cylinders Rekluse is excited to announce the launch of their new direct OEM replacement billet slave cylinders. These slave cylinders feature a hard-anodized billet aluminum housing and piston, providing increased durability. The proprietary piston and seal design extends seal life and improves clutch modulation. Developed in partnership with Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory riders, the slave cylinders have been tested in the toughest riding environments at the highest levels of racing. They are designed for use with OEM or aftermarket manual clutch systems, including Rekluse’s Core Manual TorqDrive, Core Manual, and TorqDrive Clutch Pack.

About Rekluse Motor Sports. Founded in 2002 from personal inspiration and collective vision, Rekluse changed the game in clutch performance technology. Rekluse performance clutch products improve riding experiences for power sports enthusiasts worldwide.

Rekluse products are engineered, developed and manufactured in Boise, Idaho, USA. Driven by purpose, progress and performance, Rekluse will inspire a better adventure.

MSRP: $159.00 Go to rekluse.com for more information. www.rekluse.com Note: these slave cylinders are not compatible with Rekluse auto clutches (RadiusCX, Core EXP 3.0, and RadiusX).

Upshift - January

2.

Maxima Fuel Enhancer Fuel performance enhancer designed to prevent and cure all problems caused by ethanol due to ethanol’s corrosivity and high affinity for water. Fuel Enhancer prevents water and ethanol from reaching critical components and can help prevent corrosion where water has previously been introduced. The advanced formulation conditions and stabilizes fuel against oxidation and extends fuel life. The world class additive system prevents varnish, deposits and gum and can help clean up a fuel system that already contains these unwanted contaminants. MSRP: 1 oz $1.95, 32 oz $19.95, 5 gallon $299.95 www.maximausa.com

1 Ounce

32 Ounce

5 Gallon

Suspension Services FOR ANY TRAIL!

Unparalleled Settings konflictmotorsports.com Call us at (425) 681-5160

Wide Open

Lisbon, Portugal

Photo: Tim Burke

2019

Wide Open

Hungry Horse, Montana

Photo: Olivier de Vaulx

2019

Wide Open

Sea of Cortez - Baja, Mexico

Photo: Simon Cudby

2019

Wide Open

Green River, Utah

Photo: Stephen Clark

2019

Wide Open

Castle Rocks, Idaho

Photo: Tim Burke

2019

Wide Open

Baja, Mexico

Photo: Simon Cudby

2019

HIGH PERFORMANCE SERIOUSLY UNDERSTATED

JACKET RIDGE GTX

The stealth Ridge GTX takes you on a journey from the outback to the city streets and back again.

No change of outfit required.

WWW.REVITSPORT.COM

#VStromAdventures

Explore the entire family of V-Strom motorcycles at suzukicycles.com Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki trademarks or ®. © 2019 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.

Adventure runs in

the family.

Pack your bags. Go the distance. Bring back memories.

The new 2019 Suzuki V-Strom 1000XT Adventure and the new V-Strom 650XT Touring.

Superbly equipped for miles of adventures, these seriously capable machines feature side cases, a center stand, and a rugged accessory bar. Both are powered by an advanced, liquid-cooled 90-degree V-twin engine delivering smooth low to mid-range rpm torque and potent performance across the entire power range. Whether it’s the open road or the road less traveled, your next adventure starts with a V-Strom.

V-Strom 650XT Touring

V-Strom 1000XT adventure

Por tugal-Europ

ean ADV

Heaven

“Ladies and Gentlemen, from the flight deck, this is your Captain speaking. As we prepare for final approach to my favorite European city, please ensure your tray tables and seat backs are in their full and upright positions. And do me a favor; once we land and you get into town, be sure to enjoy Europe’s best seafood, drink some Port wine, and take a river cruise!”

Even the pilot of the Airbus A330 that took me across the Atlantic couldn’t contain his excitement as we approached Porto, Portugal. It’s just a special kind of place, I guess.

Europe is a lot of things: No other continent on this planet crams so much diversity, politics, history, culture, and fantastic food and drink into such a small geographical chunk of earth.

From Galway, Ireland to Kiev, Ukraine, thousands of years of diverse history hang on for dear life, while ever-advancing societies grow around an ancient infrastructure. For a motorcycling-photographer, the continent’s twisty roads, stunning mountain ranges, endless coastlines, and (generally speaking) an overall sense of safety, make for stress-free travel.

One thing Europe doesn’t have a reputation for though is being a dirt-road / dualsport mecca. Opportunities for off-road riding are few and far between. Most countries within the EU, due to its dense population and strict environmental regulations, forbid off-road travel. Even wild-camping (AKA: side-of-the-road camping) in much of Europe is highly regulated. In some countries, it seems that everything that isn’t paved is either gated or is private property.

There are some notable exceptions though, like Greece, Romania, and Portugal!

Enter Portugal: Easily at the top of my favorites-list, Portugal is home to some of the best cuisine and wine in the world!

Add a dash of mountainous terrain, pristine beaches, limitless dirt roads, cheap cost-of-living, and jaw-dropping scenery (that is dangerously distracting on a motorcycle) and you’ve got Europe’s best ADV/Dualsport riding.

In the days that lay ahead, I had a week’s worth of intense, dirt riding with a familiar Scottish motorcycle gang.

My friends at rentamotorcycle.co.uk from Edinburgh, Scotland shipped 3 BMW motorcycles down with one mission: Ride Portugal, top to bottom, almost entirely off-road.

If you flip back to Upshift Online’s Issue #27, you’ll know exactly the guys I’m talking about too! The first night in Porto set the tone for what was guaranteed to be some hilarious miles ahead. Joe Philipsz, owner of BMW Motorrad Central/Rentamotorcycle.co.uk would be on the GS Rallye while Martin Williamson (who has been riding every single mile of single-track road in Scotland since childhood) and I were on GS Adventures. I’ve worked with motorcycle rental companies before and I can say, without candy-coating anything, these guys’ team run one of the best rental operations in the world.

This trip was to be the first time that bikes were pulled from the rental fleet and shipped this far south for some serious off-the-beaten-path travel.

While we blazed our own path route through Portugal much of the time, incorporating unique detours to restaurants and accommodations, the general routing was based on the ACT (Adventure Country Tracks.) The ACT is basically Europe’s version of the ever-popular BDR tracks in the United States. It’s a brilliant creation of tracks designed to take you through the best that a country (or state) has to offer; Much of it not-on-pavement. The GPS tracks are provided for free online at www.AdventureCountryTracks.com.

After a couple days of gorging on the most affordable 5-star food I’ve ever had in Europe, it was time to head out of the hustle and bustle of Porto. The motorcycles arrived at the freight facility in one piece and after bolting on a few of the parts that were removed for shipping, we threw the bags, tools, and camera equipment on the bikes.

We were off. A quick 3-hour drive got us to the old mountain town of Bragança, on the Spanish border in the north of the country.

Anticipating 6 days of gravel, rocks, and rutted road ahead, I let some air pressure out of the tires before hitting the trail. I find that on these heavy bikes, doing so makes a world of difference in handling, traction, and comfort on the non-stop rattling of unpaved-Portugal.

To this day, remains of medieval castles are scattered throughout the country and riding past these pieces of history is like stepping back in time.

As we continue south, through the backcountry, we continue to transition from high mountain ridgelines to steep river canyons. Ascending and descending; all day long through some of the most beautiful countryside I’ve ever seen.

Throughout the valleys of Portugal, exist some 2,000-year-old arched-bridges that were built while Julius Caesar was still ruling the Roman Empire!

There is no cell-phone service out here. It’s just you, your motorcycle, and the land.

I can’t put into perspective how special the feeling is of riding a modern-day, fuel-injected, 1200cc horse across these ancient structures.

As I roll across these Roman bridges, that are still erect and in near-perfect condition thousands of years after their construction, I chuckle inside my helmet as I compare it to failing infrastructure and pothole-riddled roads in some of our 1st World Countries that cost billions to build. You know, like that $23.4 billion, “Big Dig” in Boston that didn’t fix the traffic problem? Maybe today’s engineers should have referenced the stone-andhammer technology of these ancient bridge builders instead!

Each mile of dirt brings us further south and the motorcycle’s suspension systems work hard to absorb the gravel roads and cobblestone streets of the Portuguese mountains.

As we climb away from the steep river canyon, a few sections of extremely steep, loose, and rutted-out switchbacks require us to hammer on the throttle and abuse the clutch of these heavy machines as we work to maintain a slow-momentum uphill.

Finally, we crest a ridgeline and green grass and wildflowers line each side of the road.

The road starts to descend slowly, getting steeper and steeper before the Douro River comes into view where it flows through Barca d’Alva, Portugal. Just a few hundred meters upstream, at the Spanish border, the river becomes unnavigable so it’s this riverside village that marks the ‘end of the line’ for riverboats coming from and going to Porto or the sea. Being the furthest inland Portuguese town on the Duoro River, the town and the river served as the primary transportation corridor for bringing wine barrels from the mountains to the busy trade routes along the coast. As I roll through, I think to myself, “I should just high-jack a boat full of Port wine and live the simple life out here in these rural mountains…” Boringly, I decide it’s probably in my best interest to just continue on the motorcycle.

One of my favorite aspects of this country is the biodiversity of the terrain. In just mere miles, it feels like entire ecosystems are crossed. High-alpine valleys that mimic the High Rockies in Colorado transition to sandy roads and rock structures that remind me of Arizona. It’s impossible to not feel overstimulated here.

Over the past couple of years, being on the road full-time, almost 70,000 miles have passed underneath me.

It’s places like this that remind me of how much I’ve forgotten; And how much I have yet to see.

As hard as I unsuccessfully try to resist time, the days continue to pass by… From old villages, seemingly stuck in time; Places where donkeys are the primary mode of transportation… To mountain slopes, covered in the modern-advancement of renewable wind energy, the route holds surprises and suspense around every corner. Every single day in the Portuguese backcountry is mind-blowing and it is always capped off with the best, cheap, and affordable dinners in Western Europe. Oh, and did I mention the Portuguese wine yet?!

As the journey approaches the southern reaches of the country, a change of environment is experienced once again.

The air gets a bit stickier; a bit heavier, as northern winds bring warm, humid air from the sea, inland. I can feel the excitement building within me as I throttle the motorcycle closer to the ocean. This southern coastal region of Portugal is known as “The Algarve” and I don’t trust anybody who doesn’t love it.

The Algarve is home to small fishing towns, packed with family-owned seafood restaurants and easy-going surfing shops that line the coast. High cliffs overlook crashing waves below. From Sagres, through Faro, to the Spanish border: This place is one of my favorites in Europe.

These adventure-ready motorcycles were pulled straight from the Rent-A-Motorcycle showroom floor. They took an absolute beating over the course of 5 days without whimpering once. The suspension, for hours at a time, repeatedly compressed to capacity, bulldozing through everything put in their path. Ever since learning to ride, I always try to end each successful motorcycle trip with some appreciation for the machines that made it possible. It’s okay to just stare awkwardly at a motorcycle and reminisce about the places that it brought you, right?

We arrived at the terminus of the Portugal ACT in the Southern city of Tavira at around 4pm. After 5 exhausting days, a coastal sunset never looked so good.

The journey wasn’t over yet though. The motorcycles needed to be returned to Porto. Since our travels had taken us through the mountains, entirely inland, it would be a sin to neglect Portugal’s coastline on the return. With only 2 days to cover the same amount of ground that took 5 on the way down, the pace was picked up and asphalt roads lead the way north.

Portugal’s capital and busiest city, Lisbon, is worth the stop. In “Old Town,” steep cobblestone streets weave between storefronts that are 6 centuries old. If you don’t feel like walking, you can park the moto and hop on one of Lisbon’s famous trolley cars for a city tour. Northeast of Lisbon lies a true gem: Sintra-Cascais Natural Park. It’s one of the best places in Europe to catch the sunset and the twisty roads leading to it will not disappoint.

Ericeira, 1.5 hours north of Lisbon (if you take back-roads) is a fantastic overnight destination on the return to Porto. It reminds me a bit of Santa Cruz, California. It is a surf-mecca during the day, but once the sun goes down, the bars, restaurants, and night-life come alive! Man, do I love this country!

From Ericeira, I recommend taking the coast all the way back to Porto where you’ll pass must-see towns like Peniche which is built entirely on a jagged rock-peninsula. Further to the north lies Nazaré and is home to some of the biggest waves on the planet! Don’t believe me? Just Google some images of this place!

Like every great adventure, through every great country, there comes a time to say goodbye, and as I pulled back into Porto, that time had come.

The last week had reaffirmed to me why Portugal holds its position as one of my favorite, most affordable (and delicious) European destinations.

Here’s a tidbit of “leaked” information to spark your adventure appetite: Rent-A-Motorcycle/BMW Motorrad Scotland is in the process of working out the logistics behind providing rental motorcycles for journeys like this one.

Once this is worked out, it will make them one of the companies in Europe willing to offer motorcycles and insurance for dualsport use. Keep your eyes peeled for future details on this opportunity!

Until the next adventure… Ride safe!

M M YY BB I I KK EE . . M M YY AA DD VV EE NN TT UU RR EE . . M M YY DD UU NN LL OO PP SS . .

HOW HOWDO DOYOU YOUROLL? ROLL?

@RideDunlop @RideDunlop DunlopMotorcycleTires.com DunlopMotorcycleTires.com©2017 ©2017Dunlop DunlopMotorcycle MotorcycleTires.

Tires.

T TRAI RAILSMART LSMART

NOW AVAILABLE IN A CONVENIENT, TRAVEL FRIENDLY PILLOW POUCH

Fuel Enhancer’s advanced formulation conditions and stabilizes fuel against oxidation and extends fuel life. This world class additive packet prevents varnish, deposits and cleans up a fuel system that already contains unwanted contaminants.

Made in the USA

MaximaUSA.com

Sout hern California Backcount ry Discovery Route Photos and Words: Olivier de Vaulx

T he Premier

Dozens of adventure bikes are parked in front of the small theater of downtown Long Beach. The World Premiere of the CABDR-South Expedition Film Documentary, featuring a winter route put together by the great non-profit organization, was long awaited by the ADV community and there’s not a seat left. Watching the movie, every rider present discovered an 820 mile journey through the California deserts, tested by a crew of riders of all ages and skills on big ADV motorcycles. Featuring the route through an impressive documentary is costly but is also one of the reasons why BDR, a non-profit organization, became an essential part in the expansion of our sport.

T he Route

In 2010 when Tom Myers and Bryce Stevens created Backcountry Discovery Route, a non-profit organization dedicated to the development of off-road exploration across the US, they knew that they would help fill a need. But what started with one route in Washington progressively extended, each year providing new tracks crossing western states border to border. In its 8th year of existence, BDR is now known as the trademark of a specific type of rugged off-road adventure, with 7 proven routes in the West and one on the East coast. BDR and the ADV community grew together, and today the need for adventure appeals to more and more riders, who can purchase Butler maps with all needed information regarding the route, download GPS tracks directly to their GPS for free and enjoy the adventure without thinking twice about their itinerary. Starting a new exploration has never been so easy! But with more traffic on the trails comes more problems, a concern addressed by BDR members who always involve local businesses and landowners in the development of new routes. A win-win strategy, which helps to keep the trails open while bringing fresh money to remote areas. According to Inna Thorn, BDR Director of Operations since 2012, the ADV riders brought $17 million on the 7 routes combined for 2017 alone!

Focused on education, the BDR crew also launched a “ride right” campaign to reduce the odds of head-on collision on the trails. The only missing piece so far in this otherwise almost perfect package, was a way to ride during the winter when snow is preventing any attempt to cross Arizona, Colorado, Nevada, Utah and Idaho, and when the mud makes New Mexico trails impassable.

A Perfect Opportunity

When BDR announced that they had a Southern California route ready for winter exploration, we were definitely among the ones who wanted to hear more about it. After having watched the movie, we were sold and absolutely wanted Upshift to be part of the promotion of this route. We talked to Inna about having a head start and doing a part of the CA BDR in advance, to give our readers a glimpse of what to expect on their next adventure. Knowing that the BDR crew struggled in sandy and rocky sections, we opted for the dual sport option, thinking that it would be a better choice anyway for most riders than a big and heavy adventure bike.

This also convinced Mark Samuels, multiple winner of the Baja 1000, to come along and test the CA BDR with us.

Having two riders is indeed the minimum requirement for keeping a reasonable level of safety, and knowing that Mark survived - and won - the most dangerous off-road race on the planet multiple times was a big confidence booster! He was also very excited by the prospect of trying his brand new CRF450L and we, therefore, asked Honda USA to provide us another stock bike. We added a set of Reckless 40 Mosko Moto bags and a Trail Tech Voyager Pro GPS on each motorcycle, along with an IMS 3-gallon tank. Mark couldn’t help but stick race SLR graphics on his CRF, but then went lazy and kept the stock IRC tires. On the other 450, we opted for no graphics but more aggressive knobbies from Dunlop. Planning on riding by ourselves, we first thought about camping on the way, an option recommended by Inna: “It’s the best way to really enjoy the BDRs!” she advocated. But the winter nights are pretty cold, and there was not enough room to carry camping gear and wood for bonfires on the small Hondas. We could have asked someone to drive a support truck, but we really thought that doing a portion of the BDR on our own was closer to the real experience than most riders would have. Our two-day ride was then planned with accommodations for the night, and among the 8 sections of the 820 mile trip, we decided to ride the third and fourth sections.

Fun Ride in t he Mojave

Our first day of riding started under a warm and sunny sky near Needles, CA, and would have been the third day for whoever rode the entire CA BDR. Crossing the Mojave Desert from South to North, we needed a range of 120 miles to reach Primm, NV, which is close to being the maximum available range on the CRF with the IMS tank. Luckily, Mark was not in race mode, and we could save some gas while cruising: “I risk my life enough on race days, so I really enjoy going at a slower pace,” said the multiple-time Baja champion. Funny enough, Mark never rode here, as most of his riding takes him to Mexico. Amazed by the quality of the trails and the ever-changing landscape of the Mojave, he couldn’t stop asking questions about the ADV trend, the BDRs, all aspects of off-road riding that this active racer doesn’t know.

On the other hand, the CRF seems to have been created for this kind of adventure. The smooth but constant power makes it easy to use, with a light but stable chassis.

The trail winding in the Joshua Tree forests was therefore taken at relatively high speed, and we didn’t even notice our loaded bags. At this point, the buddy feature on our Voyager Pro proved to be useful, as it was hard to follow closely a rider as fast as Mark Samuels. Cruising, for him, means keeping his momentum at an average of 65mph, which is definitely close to the maximum speed of a decent rider on these quite technical trails. Luckily, we stopped every 20 minutes to drink some water, soak up the sun and share a snack. The Mojave Cross and the Evening Star Mine were both perfect stops to think about history and remember that we’re pretty lucky to be here, riding, while others were having a tough time trying to survive the harsh conditions of the last century! After having spent the whole day far away from civilization, in amazingly warm weather, we finally reached the pavement. The CRF kept a steady 65mph on the freeway, and we soon arrived at Primm, with temperatures finally dropping around 35°F as the night settled.

Now Available 2019 CRF 450L 3,0 Gallon Fuel Tank

www.imsproducts.com

Heading to Deat h Valley

The second day, we were expecting to have a bit of a hard time, as we planned to cross some of the most challenging sections shown in the movie. The first one was a steep climb with rolling rocks, just after the Ivanpah solar panels plan. It was a tough one for the BDR crew with their big adventure bikes, but it was almost uneventful on our nimble CRFs, up until the moment when Mark pinched his soft IRC tire and had to replace the stock tube with some Heavy Duty Michelin tube we had in our Mosko Moto bags. Only ten minutes lost under the hot sun, but at least, the rider showed that he was also a good mechanic! We then finished the climb with no effort, proving once again that, for enhanced performance off-road, small is more than often better than big! In the meantime, we gained three thousand feet of elevation and reached the Coliseum Mine. The artificial excavation is not used anymore and what is left of this industrial past is easy access to a beautiful emerald lake surrounded by orange cliffs. The vibrant colors shone in the warm light of the early morning, and we just stayed here for a couple of minutes, speechless. But it was not the end of the trail, and we had to keep going, enjoying the next hours of narrow double tracks. Hitting the pavement and arriving at Tecopa a bit sooner than expected, we decided to take some liberty with the plan. Mark knew an exceptional riding spot a few miles away from the official route, and we soon found ourselves drawing curves on the giant Dumont Dunes, having a taste of Dakar on our 450s! Burning gas in the sand was fun, but we forgot that the days were so short. By the time we went back to Shoshone to fill our tanks, it was too late to keep going to Furnace Creek, in the middle of Death Valley. We just had a few hours of daylight left to explore the entrance of the valley. If the beginning of the track was sandy and would have been challenging on big ADV bikes, the next miles were way easier: the large graded roads allowed us to take high speed, and that’s where the big twins would have stepped up. Our 450s could maintain 85 mph, but the rev limiter was always really close to entering in action. The same speed on big adventure bikes would have been more comfortable, for sure, due to their big bores and their fairings‌ but hey, this backcountry route has something for everybody, right?

Winter Made Easy

Back to Tecopa, we shared our thoughts during the dinner at Steaks and Beer, a tiny restaurant owned by a very talented cook. These two days of riding were too short to pretend that we did the route, but it gave us a really nice overall view of what one could expect on the journey. First, even if the route goes on pavement or easy gravel roads a few times, the terrain can still be quite challenging. Most people would have more fun on smaller bikes, even if it means less comfort on the highway.

It’s all about skills and personal preferences, but keep in mind that pleasure is not on the pavement anyway! The logistical aspect should also be considered. With the odds of having rain or snow being close to zero, you can pack light and keep small bags. The average temperature in the middle of December was around 65°F, way above what we experienced this summer on the Pacific Divide in Washington state… It’s still winter though, and when the sun disappears, temperatures drop quickly and might be a bit low for comfortable camping. It means that a support truck is almost necessary to carry sleeping bags, blankets, wood or propane, etc.… Of course, hardcore and experienced explorers on bigger bikes will be able to manage it, but that’s another story! These different considerations brought us to the conclusion that it’s up to each rider to make the CA BDR his own and finding his own way to do it. Some will almost race it, putting in a ton of miles every day, while some will take their time, stopping more often to explore the surrounding areas… Either way is okay as long as it makes it a better experience! Finally, Mark summarized it all: “I really want to do this entire road one day. It’s so different from racing. Now I had a taste of it, I need to do it in full, and I’m so excited about the prospect of such an adventure.”

Track and Maps

If you want to go on the California Backcountry Discovery Route by yourself, and more likely with a couple of friends, it’s effortless to find all the resources. Just go to www.ridebdr.com/CABDR to see the map, download the GPS track, get a list of interesting points to visit as well as addresses of gas stations, restaurants and accommodations along the way. A Butler waterproof paper map is available for each route and makes it easier to make decisions on the go during the trip.

Last, but not least, the website provides updates regarding road and trail conditions. And for those who don’t own the right bike, each dedicated route page includes a list of rental companies. The guys from BDR thought about everything, so you’ll have a hard time finding any excuse for not going on the ride!

Special thanks to Mark Samuels, who was really fun to ride with and was super patient during the multiple photo stops, to Jason Abbot from Honda USA who quickly found a CRF450L and for Jeff, Jason and Daniel who serviced it in no time, and to Inna Thorn who helped us plan the trip and shared multiple tips about the route.

M O LL E Y EX PA ND ABIL IT ) (F RO NT + BA CK

R E M OVA BLE B E AV E RT AIL S TA S H S P OT Two remo vable 5L

LATC H PO IN TS UN DE R BE AV ER TA IL

drybags.

RECKLESS 10 THE MINIMALIST DIRT BIKE SOLUTION

This is THE minimalist luggage solution for dirt bikes and dualsports.

TW O RE MO VA BL E 5 LI TE R DR Y BA GS

Easily stash your tools, tubes, snacks, extra gas, and a jacket in case it gets cold. The Reckless 10 follows the same format as the larger R40 and R80, with a sewn-seam harness that holds two drybags securely in place and features an expandable beavertail stash-spot in the center. But this time, you can change the orientation of the beavertail, or remove it entirely – eliminating interference when you’re getting after it.

Find us on MOSKOMOTO.com or on ADVRIDER.com in the ‘Vendors’ forum.

#moskomoto

TESTED

BY SIMON CUDBY

Dango Designs Gripper Mount Since the dawn of the GoPro, for me the question has always been what’s the best way to mount it to my helmet?

After years of hammering my cameras that were mounted on top of my lid on things like overhanging branches and brush, I discovered the Dango Designs Gripper Mount. Using a chin mount is going to save me a lot of damaged cameras! I have also found that a camera mounted on the chin offers the best angle of view, and allows the rider’s bars and instruments to be in the frame for reference.

Using the Dango couldn’t be any easier, just clip it on and go. I also like that you can easily switch the mount between helmets. The actual camera mount uses the popular GoPro design that also swivels in 90 degree increments opening even more clamping angle options. In the chin mount set-up, the camera is also obviously closer to the rider’s mouth, so audio commentary is much better at lower speeds.

In use, I have had zero issues with the grippy mount loosening as I ride, either on the street at higher speeds or off road. I have gotten in the habit though of wrapping the hand strap through the helmet chin bar, and looping it over the camera “just in case”. Due to the easily removable clamp design, it opens up more mounting opportunities than just the chin mount. On our trip to India this year, we took some video with the camera mounted facing backwards clamped on top of our Mosko Moto bags. We also clamped the camera on the side of our Royal Enfield bikes for another interesting angle. The clamps can open up to 3” wide, so basically wherever you feel like clamping the Dango on your bike, it’s going to give you better shots than the top of your helmet.

The Dango removes in an instant allowing you to check that your GoPro is actually recording before you hit that epic singletrack section.

Sometimes it’s hard to hear the beeps from your camera, so this is a good way to be sure you are actually recording.

With the stabilization built in to new cameras like the Rylo and the GoPro Hero 7, the Dango can be used in place of a hand-grip for smooth hand held shots, and the mount can also be set on a surface and used as a small tripod.

AVAILABLE AT THE UPSHIFT STORE!

www.upshiftonline.com/store/dango-designs-gripper-mount

So, lots of creative options with the Dango Gripper Mount. I’m just glad I found this company, and I’m not still trying to hack together another homemade chin bar mount!

The Gripper Mount comes in either Orange or Black at an MSRP of $49.95. Dango also offer an adapter pack for $7.99 in case you need to extend the mount arm a little further from your helmet mouthpiece. www.dango-design.com

TESTED

BY CHAD DE ALVA

Shinko MX 216 and Cheater 505 tires My favorite tires are those that work well no matter what type of surface I’m riding on. It’s that simple. It doesn’t matter what the weather is doing, whether I’m riding on rocks, in the mud, on fire roads, single track or even a bit of pavement. My favorite tires provide me with predictable traction under power, on the brakes, and in the corners. They inspire confidence no matter where I’m pointing my bike, and after five months and thousands of miles logged in Idaho, Colorado, and Arizona I feel quite confident in saying that the Shinko MX 216 front and 505 Cheater Hybrid rear are my favorite tires. Here’s why: The MX216 has thoroughly impressed me with its ability to find grip on a great variety of riding surfaces. The tire is hands down the most point-and-shoot front tire that I’ve ever run, and this pick-a-line and go ability works across the spectrum from wet river rocks and ball bearing gravel roads all the way to hero dirt and perfectly bermed corners. Should you exceed the tire’s grip in a corner, breakaway is very predictable and the tire will step into and out of a slide in a way that lets you know a soil sample to your face isn’t in your immediate future.

TESTED: Shinko MX 216 and Cheater 505 tires Braking performance on the MX 216 is quite good too, whether you’re working your way down a knife-edge ridge in the Colorado Rockies, or trying to keep from going full runaway train while pointing it down a section of Idaho single track that’s too slick to stand on. The tire shrugs off sharp rocks and resists highly abrasive surfaces quite well, whether said surface is chip-sealed pavement or the volcanic watermelons of Northern Arizona. I haven’t observed any chunking on the tires I’ve used, but the side lugs are the limiting wear part of the tire. In my experience, the side lugs will hold up to several hundred miles of mixed use (single track , two track, fire roads, occasional pavement) but the cost of great traction is shorter tire life. Thankfully the MX 216 is a very affordable front tire that performs better than many more expensive tires I’ve run.

The 505 Cheater Hybrid is hands down the best rear tire that I’ve used. Cheater is an apt name for this tire because your riding buddies will think you’ve somehow figured out how to cheat the laws of physics with what this tire can do. This tire provides insane levels of grip across so many different riding surfaces that you’ll find yourself considering lines that you know you wouldn’t otherwise be able to navigate. Having this level of rear wheel traction has typically been the domain of running a trials tire, or a trials hybrid tire but these types of tires come with some serious drawbacks – namely instant shedding of lugs should you venture near pavement, and RMS Titanic-like cornering performance thanks to a very tall profile. Yet, the 505 Cheater is free from these drawbacks as the tire has an MX tire profile, so it corners quite well and despite having rather sticky lugs it holds up stupidly-well to pavement and dual sport use, making it a tire that does it all – and does it all well.

I spooned on a fresh 505 for Klim’s CowTag Event in late June, and after a week of constant riding in Eastern Idaho the tire was barely showing any wear. I ran the same tire all through July and most of August, which entailed a number of trips to Southwestern Colorado and many afternoon rides in Northern Arizona, where the tire continued to hold up very well. In late August, this tire was definitely showing some wear, yet it was entirely serviceable, so I decided to run the tire for the Colorado 500. I ended up riding just under 700 miles of single track, two track, improved dirt roads, and pavement on the 500, yet even this ride wasn’t enough to kill this particular 505. I haven’t found another tire that’s come close to providing the traction, cornering confidence, and lifespan that the 505 offers.

I’m not the kind of rider who has the time and the means to run surface-specific tires for every place that I ride, so I need tires that work well and give me assurance on just about every riding surface out there. From super soft adobe soils, to slickrock and every surface in between, these two tires have worked great and never let me down with a flat or done anything to erode my confidence in the traction that they provide. Shinko’s MX 216 and 505 Cheater Hybrid tires deliver consistent performance and reliance that lets me focus on enjoying the experience of the ride, no matter where I’m riding. www.shinkotireusa.com

TESTED

BY CHAD DE ALVA

FASTWAY EVOLUTION AIR FOOTPEGS Unlike your bike’s handlebar and hand controls, there isn’t anything that can be done to adjust your stock footpegs – they’re just there as a place to put your feet. Since we all adjust our levers, bars, and other parts of our bike to suit our personal preference, it only makes sense to run a footpeg that can be adjusted to suit the individual rider too.

Fastway’s Evolution Air footpegs are gorgeous CNC-machined pieces of art that can be adjusted to get the exact traction, camber (degree of tilt into the bike), and height that you want from your bike’s pegs. And yes, they make your bike look damn-good too. User-adjustable footpegs are one of (two of) those parts where you don’t realize just how much you’ve been missing out on until you start playing with the adjustments that these pegs offer.

The biggest advantage that the Evolution Air pegs offer is in traction, by way of user adjustable cleats. Fastway supplies 10mm and 12mm cleats (set screws) with their footpegs, and you can configure the cleats in approximately 5.8 billion different ways to create more traction where you need it, and less traction where you want some room to move around. If you want to take your traction up to 11, Fastway also makes a set of spiked cleats that will quite effectively lock your foot in place in the front-toback and side-to-side axes at the cost of reduced boot life.

Traction isn’t the only thing you can adjust on the Evolution Air Footpegs. The camber adjustment allows you to adjust how far your footpegs are tilted up toward your bike.

If you want to promote more or less knee pinching or adjust your pegs for better ergonomics, all you have to do is add or subtract washers from under a machine screw on the end of the pegs. Just make sure you use the included thread locker when installing this screw and all of the cleats on your pegs, as they will vibrate out if you forget to apply the thread locker.

The final adjustment is the height of the peg, and you can run the pegs in the high / stock position, or flip the pivot collar over and run the pegs in the low position which can help out if you’re a tall guy like me. This is a great way to gain a few millimeters of extra standing room and can save you from having to go for an exceedingly tall bar riser to get your standing ergonomics set up properly. Just make sure you’ve still got good access to your foot controls, as running the pegs in low position will also move your pegs rearward.

TESTED: FASTWAY EVOLUTION AIR FOOTPEGS Durability wise, the Evolution Air footpegs have held up great to all of the rocks, logs, and other trail obstacles that I’ve failed to avoid over the last few months. The pegs are certainly scratched, but they’re still square and the cleats are holding up great. Compared to stock KTM pegs, they’re 16.7% lighter and much stronger than the stock pegs, which I can confirm by way of a certain boulder on a local trail that may or may not have claimed a stock peg. Yet when I hit that same boulder with the Evolution Air pegs, all that resulted was a new scratch on my right peg and me making up my mind to go pull that boulder out of the trail.

My only critique of the Evolution Air Footpegs is that the provided cleats (the 10 and 12 mm set screws) can be a tedious process to change out once the top of the screws become packed with soil. You’ll have to take a pick to each and every screw on your pegs to clean them out so you can get an allen bit in place to remove the set screw, which I worry will cause many riders to not play with the adjustability as much as they should. Yet, the spiked cleats come with an external hex that makes changing them out quite easy, so my perfect cleat would be a stud with this external hex that I can just slip a socket onto.

There’s a lot of aluminum bling that’s on the market for motorcycles, and I’m sure I could start a number of great keyboard debates on the merits of some of these parts. Yet the Fastway Evolution Air footpegs are definitely a functional upgrade. They allow you to adjust the camber and height of your footpegs which can help you fit your bike better, and the ability to adjust just how much traction you’re getting from your footpegs can make a huge difference in overall bike control and not coming off the pegs when you need to stay on them. Fastway has combined all of this function into products that are machined pieces of art. Just make sure to pick up extra cotter pins with your pegs – taking the time to play around with the adjustments will make very noticeable differences, and finding that sweet spot is so worth the time and effort. MSRP: $180.95 for our KTM EXC-500 plus $19.00 fit kit for this model. www.promotobillet.com/fastway

Performance Lighting Solutions For Every Adventure Ride

PEGASUS LED LIGHT KIT cyclopsadventuresports.com

adventure into the full new lineup

of high performance auto and manual clutches

Photo: Gnarly Routes

Photos: Daryl Cauchi, Wild Feathers, RTW Paul, Nomadic Duo UK, Around Gaia Words: Deborah Azzopardi, Wild Feathers.

We meet a lot of people and they frequently ask me - “Do you ride as well?” As soon as I answer, “No, not yet,” I get that, “Oh!” The two-letter word that says so much.

What most people don’t know, especially bikers themselves that look down on pillions, is that being a pillion requires a different kind of strength. It requires patience and a high level of trust that not everyone is capable of.

I always joke with Daryl telling him that I wish he gets reincarnated as a pillion passenger behind a rider like himself!

But what am I trying to say after all? What do I expect and why does this make me a little upset?

Don’t get me wrong. I don’t expect people to call me a biker – even though I’ve been traveling on a motorcycle for more than a year.

However, I expect respect and a different kind of appreciation. This makes me think of all the mothers and housewives that God knows how many times they were told that they are JUST that. It’s like they sit at home all day, right? It’s so simple.

People who look down on pillions have no idea what it’s like to be one. A pillion has to trust in a good road, be strong enough off-road and compromise and do what is needed all the times in between. The pushing, pulling, walking uphill in all kinds of weather when the terrain is too rough for two people. All of this requires strength.

I look forward to the day I start riding, and when I do, I’ll be able to compare both roles in better words. In the meantime, I spoke to three other women for more insight on this topic.

Ivana Torres, Around Gaia.

Ivana rode the world behind Manu for 4 years. “Have I ever felt pillion prejudice? Well, not much really. In fact, most of the time the people we meet often recognize how hard it is to travel in the back seat of a motorcycle for 4 years.

However, a couple of times we met with girls who traveled by motorcycle and talking with them I felt that superior attitude because I did not ride myself. But neither Manu nor I decided to start this journey to get the recognition of others, so I never got affected.�

Rachel Unwin, Nomadic Duo. Rachel is currently traveling Asia with James, on a KTM990.

“I’ve had quite a few people say to me, ‘Oh wow do you both ride the bike?’ “No.” ‘So you just sit on the back while he does all the work/riding?’ “Yes.” They then completely ignore me and just talk to James. It’s as if I am lazy and more of a hindrance than anything else; an extra lump of mass that is not needed.

They say, “It must be so heavy carrying an extra person with all that weight?” What they fail to realize is we are a team. I am the one pushing and pulling the bike in difficult situations. I am the one clinging on for dear life over treacherous terrain and river crossings.

I honestly believe it is scarier and likewise physically and mentally demanding being a pillion. It takes a lot of guts and trust when your partner is riding inches away from mountain edges with over a thousand meter drops.”

Egle Gerulaityte, News & Fables Currently riding South America on a Suzuki DR650 Egle is a woman who I admire a lot. Egle is a rider herself, but when I discussed this topic with her, she gave me an interesting insight on how her perception changed when she traveled as a pillion herself.

“I started riding a motorcycle in 2013. When I met my partner Paul in 2016, I had a motorcycle that I was planning to take around Africa.

However, once we got together and decided to travel the world as a couple, the plans changed. Paul wanted to see Europe again, and since we both were in no rush to get anywhere in particular, I agreed to the idea. Europe is one of the most expensive continents to travel though so we decided to try traveling two-up on Paul’s Super Tenere 1200.

“This wasn’t an easy decision for me. I love motorcycling, I love riding, and I love all the challenges and freedoms that come with it. Being a pillion passenger is very different: you have to make yourself as adaptable as possible. You must adjust to every move the rider makes to make his or her life easier; you have to get off and walk if the terrain gets too difficult; it’s always the pillion who has to compromise because the rider is, well, riding.

“I think this got to me the most – the fact that it was always me who had to adapt because Paul’s job as The Rider was more important. Now that we’re on separate motorcycles, we both compromise and it feels more balanced.

“Another thing that really got to me was the attitude of others. Most of the time, people talked to Paul and only shook my hand or nodded towards me out of politeness, like I was just an afterthought. And I was – I was just a sack of potatoes behind The Rider. I always felt like I just had to tell people that I was a rider, too, and that this was just temporary… Only to get raised eyebrows and that condescending question: ‘so, you want to be in control, huh?’ No, for Pete’s sake, I’m not a control freak – I just love riding!

“Pillion prejudice exists, and I certainly was guilty of it myself when I was traveling on my bike solo and met couples riding two-up. Walking in pillions’ shoes for six months taught me a valuable lesson about assumptions, that’s for sure!

“It also makes me wonder why is it that we consider The Rider to be so important. When people meet couples traveling in vans or jeeps, for example, do they also look at the passenger with the air of superiority?

Do van or 4x4 vehicle passengers ever get this damning ‘ooooh, so you don’t drive, huh…?’ I have a suspicion that the answer to that is ‘no’.”

YOUR ADVENTURE OUR PASSION At Rottweiler Performance, our focus has always been to ask the question, “How can we take these incredibly well engineered machines and creatively manipulate them into what we, as a unique consumer with personalized needs would want from a motorcycle?” That answer becomes your adventure, and our passion.

Proven Intake Systems

Exhaust Systems & Mufflers

Tuned Velocity Stacks

Tailored Plug & Play Performance Kits

Fueling Programmers & Jet Kits

Huge Line of KTM Aftermarket Accessories

2015

2016

2017

BEST VENDOR

BEST VENDOR

BEST VENDOR

ADVENTURE RIDER RALLY

ADVENTURE RIDER RALLY

ADVENTURE RIDER RALLY

www.rottweilerperformance.com

PHOTOS AND WORDS: SUZANNA BOSTOCK

WWW.AVVIDA.CO.UK

Bolivia blew us away in the most positive way possible. It is home to the world famous ‘Salar de Uyuni’, spanning an impressive 4086 square miles making it the largest salt flat in the world. Equally enticing is the challenging ‘Lagunas Route’, renowned for its rugged beauty, however also sand, corrugations and harsh conditions, especially at night.

We were keen to fully explore both, putting aside a good ten days or so to take our time and make the most of the likely once-in-a-lifetime experience. Planning the trip was fantastic. I had waves of tummy churning nerves and excited anticipation pulsing through me, my feelings changing from minute to minute, especially given my limited yet growing experience as an off-road rider. However, despite the huge challenge I was determined.

Deciding to stay away from the standard trail, we approached the Salar from the north entrance, and ended up in a small village the night before. On entering the little plaza we headed for a tiny tienda on the opposite side. A little old lady sporting some oversized, doggy slippers sat on her disheveled chair and gave us a semi-toothless smile as we entered the small premises. In just a few cubic meters she had hundreds of supplies neatly packed into every available space. We found beer, some wine and other essential supplies, then sat in the plaza, which suddenly came alive... school must be over! We were quickly surrounded by kids asking lots of questions about what we were doing there and overall just being happy and inquisitive. It was great fun!

The day of our salt flat adventure finally arrived. A fantastic 21 mile section of dirt road put grins on our faces before getting to the Salar itself. When we ventured over the last hill, at first I thought I was looking at a lake with white clouds, and then my eyes adjusted…this was it, the salt flats in its full glory. We stood in awe and then ventured down to the entrance which looked like a small runway heading out into the vastness. As we got to the edge, the islands on the Salar that we could see from the hill above quickly vanished, and I realized just how far away everything really was.

We were now at an elevation of about 11,995 ft. The curvature of the earth meant navigating by line of sight was out and Maps.me was in! The entrance provided its own challenges. The edge of the lake is the wettest part, so we had to weave our way around the huge puddles and sludgy salt in order to not get dug in or completely cake our bikes in corrosive salt. We made it, and it was surreal. The perfect hexagons with their slightly raised edges went on for as far as the eye could see…but don’t let that fool you; apparently in some areas holes can form that can swallow bikes whole or at least cause some serious injury, so we proceeded with an element of caution. That said, my fear of the surface being slippery was fortunately quickly put to rest. It was truly an amazing experience that far exceeded our expectations.

STAY AUTHENTIC WITH ECSTAR SUZUKI GENUINE OILS Whether you’re on the open road or exploring an unbeaten path, ECSTAR Suzuki Genuine Oil gives your V-Strom the performance it needs so that you can focus on the adventure ahead. Increasing engine performance, throttle response, and fuel efficiency, ECSTAR is the only choice when it comes to high-quality lubricants specially formulated for your Suzuki motorcycle.

Get ECSTAR Suzuki Genuine Oil at your authorized Suzuki dealer, or online at Store.SuzukiCycles.com.

Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2019 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.

We headed in the direction of Isla Tortuga, a very small island near to the more well-known Isla Pescado. We chose a little alcove to set up camp in, complete with a walled area someone had built, and some firewood. Amazing!

Once the sun started to dip behind the horizon the temperature dropped dramatically until it was about 14°F. Brrrr!

Despite this we sat out nursing a glass of Bolivian wine and watched as more and more stars started to sparkle in the sky. It was completely silent, not even a rustle, which made it the quietest most amazing camp spot we’d ever experienced in our lives. We loved it so much we decided to stay two nights before heading off south in the direction of the Lagunas Route, via the Galaxia Caves, which was thankfully not a stop on the standard tour group itinerary, yet definitely worth a visit. The main cave was surreal, with rocks which looked like the ossified insides of bones almost like a scene out of Alien. The other contained multiple tombs of local people from thousands of years ago, complete with skeletons, burial pots and gifts to the dead.

We continued to Villa Alota, where the Lagunas route begins for many, and the road quickly changes from gravel to sand. Fortunately it was hard packed in some places but we frequently came across stretches with plenty of deep bull-dust which had me on my butt on one occasion. I was a little bit concerned that if the whole route was going to be like this it may take a couple of weeks! We cracked on and after Villa Mar we pulled over and found a spot to wild camp for the night as we were starting to lose light. Initially we thought we’d ask at a little farm building for permission to camp on their land. However, after not finding anyone there and multiple different body-parts and bones of llamas strewn everywhere, we found another, more pleasant spot.

We awoke to a herd of inquisitive llamas all staring at us, probably wondering what on earth this orange thing was in the middle of their space. After a quick breakfast it was off again, and we entered the National Park area. The fee was 150 Bolivianos per person for a maximum of 5 days entry. The road was not too bad, with plenty of gravel mixed in to help with traction, so I felt a bit more confident.

The first river crossing was a little deep, however we managed to find the shallowest point and just slowly ploughed through with no mishaps. The scenery was rugged and vast and like nowhere I’d ever ridden before, surrounded by numerous volcanos and huge mountains in the distance.

On reaching Quetena Chico we decided to ask about accommodation and managed to get a dorm bed each...better than camping in what turned out to be a night with temperatures dropping down to 5°F! The next morning we unexpectedly managed to fuel up from a local chap and we were off. The road again was vast, and also full of corrugations that shook us to bits, but luckily the bikes kept on. We came over a hill and saw a lake, partially covered with glistening white salt and filled with flamingos. It was stunning! The bull dust had the bike sliding around a bit, but we made it. It was beautiful just watching these pretty pink birds going about their business, some frozen into the lake, just standing there waiting for the sun to help release them.

Several other lakes on the route south were home to various wildlife and very beautiful, however the next truly magnificent lake was Laguna Chalviri. Its edges were speckled with salt and pink flamingos, and playful Vicunas skirting around the edge. The best part for us, there was a natural thermal pool at the edge in Polques and entry was only the equivalent of about $1. After a lack of shower for the past few days, it was very much welcomed!

We stayed the night and headed off to Laguna Verde and Laguna Blanca the next day, via the slightly disappointing Salvador Dali desert. The route was plagued with more corrugations for mile after mile, then turning into a boggy river bed for a while. The perseverance was worth it though because the reward was to witness one of the most brilliant turquoise lakes I’d ever seen, with the snow-capped Volcan Licancabur as a backdrop, which was technically actually in Chile. Magnificent!

Next on the list was the ‘Sol de Manana’ geysers. We had to navigate a road which was littered with sections of solid razor sharp ice and snow left from a recent cold snap; the park actually had been closed to vehicles. Fortunately we both got through the whole area without any falls and soon reached the other-worldly geysers. Steam hissed out of the ground and various colors of mud bubbled away continuously in huge, natural cauldrons. I’d never seen anything like it. The stench of sulfur near the main geyser was intense but nevertheless captivating.

The final mission on our loop was Laguna Colorado, and probably the most famous lake in the region; well known for its deep red color and the fact that it is home to all three species of Flamingo found in this area: the ‘James’ Flamingo, the ‘Andean’ Flamingo and the ‘Chilean’ Flamingo. We sat on the edge and watched them for a while, as well as the other wildlife happily living in this harsh environment.

Beyond this point the road was predominantly sand, and there was no way to avoid it, much to my dismay. The best part was a section through a rocky canyon and out the other side, which led into the desert. We discovered some Viscachas, a member of the Chinchilla family, who liked to play in the rocks, which was great to watch. Crossing to the other side of the desert area we discovered a huge circle of tall rocks, where we could safely wild camp for the night.

We found a nook out of the wind, which was essential in this area, as temperatures dropped down to a mind-numbing 1.5°F overnight. We were very grateful for our good sleeping bags and additional blankets we’d brought! It was our last night on the Lagunas route and we were thoroughly shattered to say the least, but it had been one of the best experiences of our lives!

1 KTM and Husqvarna Dealer in the USA AUTHORIZED CENTER WWW.3BROS.COM

1560 SUPERIOR AVE. #C COSTA MESA, CA 92627

PHONE: 949-642-0546