Upshift Issue 33 - May 2019

Issue 33

May 2019

ADVENTURE HARDER Adventure is not found in any one place, but in the moments that challenge you along the way. Out there, it’s just you, the terrain, and whatever extremes nature throws your way. The new KTM 790 ADVENTURE R – made to conquer it all.

KTM Group Partner

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective safety gear and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations.

The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production model and feature optional equipment at additional cost. European specification model shown for illustration purposes only.

Photo: F. Lackner

Photo: R. Schedl

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations!

The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

www.kiska.com

www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com

EXPLORE THE TRAIL BEYOND Realize your true riding potential with the 2019 dual-sport range from Husqvarna Motorcycles. Go as far as you dare thanks to premium quality components, exceptional light weight, intelligent power and innovative technology. For a more intuitive riding experience, the FE models deliver top-level performance with unprecedented ease of use across all terrains.

Issue 33 May 2019

THE INSIDER

rietary information: These drawings contain information rietary to Upshift. Any reproduction, or transmittal of this mation without expressed written consent is prohibited by Any use partial or complete of the sordCover marks is prohibited punishable to the full extent of theTim law. Burke Issue 33

May 2019

THE BEST MOTORCYCLE?

LOGO SHEET

INSTA-ADV

INSTAGRAM TRAVELERS

Design Chris Glaspell Photography Editor Simon Cudby

GEAR

Contributing Writers Suzanna Bostock Tim Burke Anatoly Chernyavskiy Chad de Alva Eric Hall Seiji Ishii

BLACK

PMS 021

THE LATEST

GREECE

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RGB: R255 B80

CMYK: C40 M30 Y30 K100

CMYK: N80 Y100

Adventurer’s HEAVEN

Contributing Photographers Suzanna Bostock Tim Burke Anatoly Chernyavskiy Stephen Clark Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Eric Hall Kinney Jones Marcin Kin Drew Martin Josh Skolnik

CHUKOTKA

horizontal on white RUSSIA’S ARCTIC REGION

KTM ULTIMATE WINNER INTERVIEW With SCOTT MYERS

Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell

KONFLICT MOTORSPORTS

Business Development Brandon Glanville

A LOOK FROM THE INSIDE horizontal on black

Want to advertise with us?

Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

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MOSKO MOTO BACKCOUNTRY 35L PANNIER KIT

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Upshift Magazine is published monthly

by Upshift Online Inc. 2019. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

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RUTA 40

NORTH ARGENTINA

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MOTORRAD MISSION REFUGEE RELIEF ADVENTURE IN COLOMBIA

THE

BEST MOTORCYCLE? INSIDER: BRANDON GLANVILLE

There has never been a better time to be a motorcycle consumer. Or is it the worst? I like to think it’s the best, but the sheer number of choices that we have available to us today is overwhelming at times. We applaud the effort and investment made by manufacturers to keep motorcycles and motorcycle technology evolving as we push into the future.

On the other hand, the relentless arms race for more power, more technology, more capability all adding more expense, is quickly making motorcycling unobtainable for some and just confusing for potential new riders interested in joining the fun.

Don’t get me wrong, I love the latest and greatest as much as anyone. Fortunately, it’s my job to work with these brands and their machines. Deep down I’m as much of a gear nut as anyone. That arms race is bothering me though. On the one hand, we keep talking about getting the industry back into a growth pattern and asking how to get new riders into motorcycling. On the other, we keep building more product for and marketing to the established, more seasoned consumer while we lose one of the all-time greats. The simple, approachable and affordable KLR650. Or the CRF250L gets bagged on because it’s not a 300 or a 450. Maybe the CRF250L is just fine being a 250. Nobody is making anyone else buy it.

Don’t get me started on the, generally, toxic wasteland that motorcycle forums, YouTube comments and the like can be.

Anonymous trolls and keyboard warriors bullying well-intentioned users is enough to make anyone feel like taking a shower to scrub that dirty feeling away. Then there’s the always informative shootout (sarcasm) or a handy top 5 list that’s not actually telling you anything. Declaring the best of something is pretty hard to do. There are rare instances where it’s clear cut but we are all so different that making a proclamation is probably not appropriate.

Cliche as it may be, it really doesn’t matter what you ride.

As long as you are riding and it puts a smile on your face. It doesn’t get much better than exploring back roads and trails of the world on a motorcycle, and the best motorcycle on the planet to do it with is the motorcycle you have. #RIDEMORE

NO COMPROMISES

DOMINATOR GTX

We make no compromises with our Dominator GTX outfit. Take it around town or around the world because it’s just that competent.

WWW.REVITSPORT.COM

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Upshift - May

1.

Rekluse Oil Product Line Rekluse is now offering Factory Formulated Oils to the off-road and V-Twin markets. Drawing upon 16 years of innovation and experience with clutches, these new oils have been engineered and tested to ensure they meet Rekluse’s high standards of performance. Rekluse Factory Formulated Oil is the perfect complement to any OEM or aftermarket clutch. All three oils are full synthetic and Rekluse Factory Certified for use with Rekluse auto and manual clutch systems. www.rekluse.com Factory Formulated 10W-40 for 4-Stroke Engine • Improved power transfer through the clutch • Smoother shifting • Reduced clutch heat for longer clutch life • Designed for use in wet clutch systems (2T/4T) • MSRP $18.99 / Liter Factory Formulated 20W-50 for 2-Stroke Transmission/4-Stroke Engine • Improved power transfer through the clutch • Direct and consistent clutch feel • Smoother shifting • Designed for use in wet clutch systems (2T/4T) • MSRP $18.99 / Liter Factory Formulated 20W-50 for V-Twin Primary • Improved power transfer through the clutch • Longer clutch life • Smoother shifting • MSRP $18.99 / Liter

Upshift - May

2.

Klim Releases Off-Road Colors And Racer Support Program KLIM is continuing the legacy of rugged, technical off-road apparel with their Racer Support Program and new colors in Dakar, Mojave and XC Lite gear. Engineered by experience in the Rocky Mountains, the deserts and enduro courses, this gear offers durability and functionality that riders have grown to trust. As off-road racing series heat up across the country, KLIM is proud to help out competitive riders with their Racer Support Program. Off-road racers with at least a year of experience are encouraged to apply for gear support in their race efforts. The program is meant to help ease the financial burden of racing for privateers who meet the qualifications of the program. The Dakar Series Colors: Tan, Red, Orange - Blue, Dark Gray, Blue, Lime Blue. Jersey MSRP $64.99, ITB Pants MSRP $189.99, Pants MSRP $209.99 Mojave Series Colors: Light Gray, Desert Tan, Skydiver Blue, Orange - Gray. Jersey MSRP $59.99, ITB Pants MSRP $169.99, Pants MSRP $199.99. XC Lite Series Colors: Red - Blue, Purple, Orange - Blue, Green, Black - White. Jersey MSRP $39.99, Pants MSRP $129.99. www.klim.com

504 / 505 Series Tire Made for soft to hard terrains, this combo tire offers exceptional traction, braking, stability, and control.

ShinkoTireUSA.com

Wide Open

South Fork Boise River, Idaho

Photo: Simon Cudby

2019

Wide Open

Arizona BDR Route

Photo: Olivier de Vaulx

2019

Wide Open

2019 KTM Ultimate Race, Morocco

Photo: Marcin Kin

2019

Wide Open

Melba, Idaho

Photo: Simon Cudby

2019

Wide Open

Green River, Utah

Photo: Stephen Clark

2019

BridgestoneMotorcycleTires.com

WHAT ARE YOU

RIDING ON?

©2019 Bridgestone Americas Tire Operations, LLC. All rights reserved.

THIS 40% ON/60% OFF-ROAD TIRE IS 100% DESIGNED FOR YOUR ADVENTURE MOTORCYCLE. START THINKING ABOUT YOUR TIRES.

Wide Open

Caliente, Nevada

Photo: Kinney Jones

2019

Wide Open

Death Valley, California

Photo: Drew Martin

2019

Wide Open

South Fork Boise River, Idaho

Photo: Simon Cudby

2019

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Greece is special. I knew it would be before I even got there. I have known about its history and have read about its epic mythological stories since I was in grade school.

Ancient history is around every corner in Greece, and it has a way of making you want to slow down to appreciate it.

I arrived in the country on a ferry from Brindisi, Italy. By this point, I had been on the road for almost two months and had traveled over 22,000km through England, France, Spain, Portugal, Morocco, Andorra, and Italy.

Ferry Port – Igoumenitsa, Greece - The 8-hour overnight ferry to Igoumenitsa, Greece put me into the country at almost 6am – which was perfect for getting an early start on the day. Although there is plenty to explore around this northern city, just south of the Albanian border, I wanted to get my big-city exploring over with in Athens before being able to really take my time, exploring this country’s small villages and small twisty roads.

I got off the boat and hit the road for Athens in warm temperatures, where cooler waters along the coastline created low lying fog. As the road roller-coastered through small hills, varying terrain, and ocean inlets, I would ride into and out of this thick fog which felt like flying a fighter jet through cloud layers!

Although I usually find freeway travel boring and avoid it at all costs (preferring to stay on backroads and trails), the 5-hour ride to Greece is made quicker by hopping on the “super slab” in certain sections. The Greek highways are filled with plenty of entertainment like goats and donkeys in the back of pick up trucks… and even helicopters being towed behind small cars!

I spent 2 days in Athens which, for me, was enough time to see the major tourist attractions like the Acropolis, the temple of Zeus, and Syntagma Square. Both food and drink are reasonably priced in this busy city, and there is no shortage of street vendors. Any city that can offer great food and drink for a motorcycle-traveler on a budget will always get a good grade in my book!

While Athens is history-packed and full of entertainment, I only have limited patience for busy city traffic, so it was time to see what the rest of the country really had to offer!

On my third day, I teamed up with husband and wife ADV riders from Athens (@bikesandbaking) and we rode out of the city, south, to the Temple of Poseidon: A historic monument atop steep cliffs with sweeping views of the Aegean Sea. The ride out of Athens to the south is paved and full of twisties. The sea water just off the road is bright blue and small islands are visible along the length of this route.

It doesn’t seem to take long to get away from the city’s traffic and into the countryside where natural beauty and ancient history mix together.

My friends and I parked the motorcycles at the Temple of Poseidon and walked out to the steep cliffs that plummet towards the ocean. After we took in the views and enjoyed our packed lunch, we said goodbye and parted ways. I continued north towards the city of Rafina where I took a short ferry to the nearby island of Evia. Aside from small fishing villages, this island is relatively desolate and is a slice of heaven for motorcyclists. Generally speaking, the island is long and narrow and has only one main road which runs north and south.

The magic though happens on the small dirt roads that veer off the main route, down to desolate and hidden beaches on the Aegean Sea, on the east side.

The Sea has been pummeling the east side of Evia for ages and leaves a rocky and jagged coastline in its wake.

As I meandered my way north, the entire ecosystem of the island seemed to change. While active, gusty, and continuous winds keep tree and forest growth relatively sparse in South Evia, the north part of the island is covered by green and lush forests. Trees cover the winding mountainous roads, sometimes feeling as if you’re riding in a twisty tunnel.

ENGINEERED FOR ADVENTURE C A R LS B A D JAC K E T & PA N T The Carlsbad was conceived of the need for highly mobile, highly vented and minimized bulk adventure gear – all while maintaining KLIM’s highest abrasion resistance and durability standards. Specifically designed to handle the rigors of on and off-road riding, the Carlsbad integrates vastly improved venting and mobility, as well as an optional kidney belt, over the Overland series that preceded it.The Carlsbad is the essential ADV setup for riders looking for a no-compromise streamlined package of high mobility, comfort and durability.

# K L IML IF E

K L I M .C O M

Looking north from the island of Evia, huge and jagged mountains are visible on the Pelion Peninsula. After seeing this landscape, I knew I had to go explore these mountains. From the north end of the island, I took a ferry into the town of Glifa. From Glifa to Volos, the road takes you through miles of fields where some farmers still use donkeys and mules to sow the land. It is like taking a step back in time!

One of my favorite aspects of motorcycling is the ability to smell your surroundings, really making the journey more intimate. Traveling through the rural, low lying farmlands of Greece really provides you with that sensory overload that connects you to the environment, and give us motorcyclists that feeling that we are always chasing after.

Once on the Pelion Peninsula, there are tight switchbacks and sharp corners to keep any motorcyclist happy.

As beautiful as these asphalt mountain roads are, the real beauty is found by getting yourself lost on the peninsula’s dirt roads.

Steep cliffs crash into the ocean where they meet the most brilliant blue waters I’ve ever seen. Every bend of the road is worthy of a photo. For an easily distracted photographer like myself, it really makes covering any distance difficult!

The best part about traveling along these remote stretches of shoreline, especially on hot days, is jumping in the water! White sand beaches are scattered along the length of this rugged coast.

I spent the night in a campground in the small coastal town of Agios Ioannis, a village with an abundance of family-run restaurants, bars, and shops. With warm temperatures and a light breeze, it was a perfect night to spend in my hammock! My hammock packs into my sleeping bag stuff-sack, smaller than a grapefruit. I find the easiest way to set up a hammock is by using ratchet straps (which I never go without on a motorcycle trip)! Depending on the length of the straps, it allows you to be far less picky about finding trees that are “perfectly spaced” for hammocks.

I woke up in my hammock to perfect blue sky weather and had to say goodbye to this heaven-like village. I climbed the steep mountains above the city of Volos. These mountains offer a spectacular view of the valley below and are worth stopping for a while to take in the view.

I headed southwest out of Volos to explore the mountains that stretch between Lamia and Patras. This is where my jaw hit the floor.

Since my travels are rarely planned with turn-by-turn details, I often improvise by exploring off-shoots that appear to connect to other small roads. Some of the best riding I’ve experienced on this trip comes from a spontaneous style of planning and unexpected detours towards anything that appears pretty!

I spent the night in the mountains north of Itea, where the galaxy’s stars put on a show.

The Milky Way stretches over the small village of Delphi.

Next on the agenda was the Peloponnese Peninsula, home of the original Olympics and the cities of Tripoli and Sparta. I was told beforehand that this region would be pretty, and boy, I was not disappointed. Making my way over to the Peloponnese via Patras, I recrossed my tracks from my first day in Greece. Again, with no plan and no predetermined routing, I aimed my handlebars towards steep, rugged terrain, knowing that narrow mountain roads would be abundant. With only a vague general destination programmed into the GPS, the navigation system will continue to “reroute and auto-correct� as you allow yourself to become lost on mountain roads.

I hit the bottom of the peninsula, the second-southernmost point of mainland Europe (Tarifa, Spain is #1) before tracing the east coast north again. This “turn-around” at the bottom of Greece was a big moment for me as I knew that it now symbolized a north-bound journey for me for the next 2 months. Ultimately, I had Norway in my sights. On any journey, it’s always a bittersweet feeling when you reach a turn-around point, wherever that may be. I stayed the night in the city of Nafplion, treated by an unforgettable sunset.

Right at sunrise, I loaded the motorcycle up and headed to the island of Corfu off the northern coast. I would again force myself to use only backroads on this leg. It took almost 8 hours to reach Igoumenitsa, where the two-hour ferry would take me and my motorcycle to Corfu.

It was in Corfu that I would spend almost an entire week, at the Pink Palace Hostel, resting an injured foot from a 50cc scooter accident. Often times, during these adventures, life can throw us curve balls. During a routine maintenance overview of my bike, I had learned that one of my front calipers must have gotten “sticky” and was only using one piston to apply brakes. This caused one brake pad on the right front rotor to wear out prematurely, to the point that it was almost metal on metal! Luckily, there was a scooter rental shop right near my hostel.

So for $15, I had myself a lean, mean 50cc machine to chase down brake pads on this small island! “It’s just a 50cc scooter,” I, of course, told myself. “I’m a big, bad ADV rider…

I can handle a 50cc scooter,” so I thought.

Off I went, on a hot Greek day, in just jeans, a T-Shirt, and sneakers to ride the island on my new scoot. It was only 5 minutes into the ride that a car backed out of a driveway right in front of me. Hard braking led to an all-out sideways slide on this 110kg toy! I went down, and so did the scooter. It was the next day, after hobbling to catch a cab, two busses, and a 1/4 mile walk to the local medical clinic that I learned that I had fractured a metatarsal bone in my right foot. There was also a pretty deep laceration from where the pavement ground through my sneaker and into the ball of my foot. Lots of lessons were learned that day but ATGATT (All the gear, all the time) was the biggest one!

With an inability to sit still for too long and a bad case of restlessness, I lasted only 6 days of the recommended 15 day “rest” period. I had an entire continent to explore, so I wrapped my foot tightly in a bandage, stuffed it into my Sidi Goretex boots, strapped a crutch to the top of my pannier and headed to catch the ferry off the island!

I was northbound to explore the Balkans, and eventually the rest of Europe, all the way to Nordkapp, Norway.

My “down-time” in Corfu allowed for some low-key exploration of the island and a week of making lasting friendships.

By the time I left Greece, I had racked up well over 2500km of travel. Still, I feel like I haven’t scratched the surface in this country. Greece is a magical place that’s only made so special by the people that call it home. Thank you to every person that I met along the way during my time here. I will never forget this experience, and I hope to be back soon. No scooters involved next time, though!

Follow the rest of Tim’s journey on Facebook and Instagram by searching @timburkephoto

MAXIMA DELIVERS UNDER EXTREME CONDITIONS

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The Chukotka Autonomous Region is located in the far north of Russia and is bordered by the Arctic and Pacific Oceans. Here lies the most eastern point of Russia and the most northern city of the country - Pevek.

Most of the territory of Chukotka is located beyond the Arctic Circle. The duration of winter is up to 10 months and the whole Chukchi land is permafrost.

The minimum hours of sunshine and the maximum number of hurricanes and storms in Russia are registered here.

Chukotka Peninsula is one of the most distant parts of Russia from Europe. This land still belongs to the wild and not to man.

For two years I have been looking for an opportunity to ride a motorcycle in the most northeastern region of Russia.

There are no summer roads to Chukotka. I chose the most exciting and unusual way of moving with a motorcycle to a tundra country: the Northern Sea Route; two weeks on a freighter going from Arkhangelsk to Pevek through 5 seas of the Arctic Ocean.

To travel around Chukotka on a motorcycle, I would need some important items: good warm clothes, waders for overcoming the numerous fords of cold rivers, gasoline reserves for 800 km, food supply for 2 weeks and pyrotechnics for scaring wild animals. There would be many other things weighing down not only the budget, but also the motorcycle, making it a gypsy wagon, without the character that Japanese engineers laid at my Honda XR650L.

The last days were completely reserved for the preparations for departure. It was a familiar and exciting procedure. Lists were made and things were packed in water-proof bags that filled the floor in the room with their multi-colored rows.

I was going to Arkhangelsk, the oldest port of Russia, where a freighter, Alexander Sibiryakov, was waiting for me. In the north of Russia it is easy to travel with a tent; at any time you can find a river or a lake to camp.

This year, the summer navigation on the Northern Sea Route didn’t open until July 10 due to the slow melting of ice in the Arctic. In the port, with the help of a crane, we raise the motorcycle to the deck. We have pre-determined a place to store it under the roof, where salt water will not reach it in the event of a storm. I was settled in the cabin with everything I needed: electricity, a bed, a sink with water, a window, a table, a wardrobe and even a sofa.

I get used to the daily routine and get acquainted with the team. 19 people are with me on board: the captain, his three assistants, sailors, mechanics, a cook and a doctor.

July 28th: At night, the ship crossed the Arctic Circle in the Barents Sea. We enter the ice zone in the Kara Gate - the strait between the islands of Vaygach and Novaya Zemlya, connecting the Barents and Kara Seas.

Having risen to the upper deck, I observe a bird circling monotonously above the ship- a large seagull, which clearly likes to catch the flow of warm air from the ship and soar.

Traveling is a drug that makes me ride the bike over and over again. At first I want to go back to my comfortable life and my family. But over time, a calmness and confidence comes over me and finally, the real joy of travel. It is a pity that even the longest journey ends very quickly.

By the evening the ice was gone. The sailor this afternoon saw two polar bear cubs on an ice floe. It is a real polar day now when the sun is circling around the ship, not sinking beyond the horizon. The distance from Arkhangelsk to Pevek is 5170 km and according to this data we should arrive in 10 days.

August 1: It’s been a week since we left Arkhangelsk. The Arctic seas are incredibly beautiful with the water changing color depending on the height of the sun. When it is cloudy, the water is gray. By noon, the clouds diverge and the sun turns the gray water into a rich blue-green mass. The evening sun colors the water in a soft turquoise hue, and the nightly low sun of the polar day makes it pink.

Finally, the fog cleared, which had depressed us for several days with its grayness. I lost my orientation in the days of the week. Maybe this is the way to live. We are so skillfully robbing our time, as there is no time for thinking.

The New Siberian Islands have passed - the archipelago between the Laptev Sea and the East-Siberian Sea. The ice is about to begin, which does not correspond to warm weather at all. But rare lonely pieces of ice are already running towards us.

August 6th: At night, we tried to get to the point designated by the icebreaker. Our ship is stuck in the ice. We will stand here for a day, or maybe two. Soon it will be a month since I left home, and I still can’t get to Chukotka.

After breakfast, I go out on deck to watch the quaint ice floes and enjoy the silence of the Arctic. From the north on the horizon the large island of Bennett with snow-covered hills is clearly visible.

It is rarely a quiet sunny day here. Ice does not crunch, seagulls do not shout and the wind does not blow. Everything is frozen in mighty silence. Only the seal sticks his head out of the water several times, looking at the ship and does not show up again.

The beauty of this spectacle fills the soul with admiration and horror.

August 8: Atomic icebreaker Vaygach appears on our radar.

Our Captain gives the command - a small move to go out to meet the icebreaker. Taking a course to the southeast, Vaygach leads us through the ice of the last sea on our way.

Our ship carries construction materials to Chukotka, which otherwise cannot be brought to remote regions of the north.

Throughout the trip in the Arctic, the sun does not set below the horizon because of the polar day. But now it is suspiciously dark, which means we are moving south. I prepare the bike to descend to the ground.

August 11: After 14 days at sea, we finally moor to the final destination, to the most northern city of Russia - Pevek. On the slopes of the hills there are amazing stone rocks - kekurs, over which cirrus clouds hang, creating unusual northern landscapes.

The military takes the passport from the entire crew for an inspection. The vessel is preparing for unloading. Finally, it comes to my bike. We safely lower it to the Chukchi land.

I pack my bags and say goodbye to the sailors. The feeling is incredible, the dream has come true: Finally, I am riding a motorcycle in Chukotka!

While the weather is good I decide to go to the Shelagsky Cape, the northernmost point of Chukotka and the entire Far East, to the abandoned village of Yanranay about 30 km, where I want to find Chukchi fishermen. There are many animals around: gophers on their hind legs are met on the road, ducks swim in ponds, and cranes fly up from the tundra.

Driving through Apapelgino, a dead village that used to serve as the airport, old planes and helicopters are lying on the streets. Near the abandoned houses, this old town looks very apocalyptic.

Between the hills and the sea I reach the village of Yanranay, whose inhabitants resettled in the city of Pevek.

On the shore I found a fisherman’s house with two inhabitants. The Chukchi introduced themselves as Ivan and Nikolay- one catches fish, the other looks for berries. At the end of the summer they will sell them.

They feed me fried venison. I take a backpack and go out in the direction of Shelagsky Cape, which can only be reached on foot through the swampy tundra.

Foggy mounds are ahead, which I saw on the ship during the stay in the port. I did not think that in a day I would enter them. Fog is created due to strong winds that break from the cold sea to the warmer Chaun Bay. It becomes very cold and I put on all the clothes that I have. Walking on the wet tundra is very difficult; this is permafrost under a small layer of soil. The ice melts in summer and the top layer of the earth is always wet. I want to shorten the path, but get lost in the fog. I go on a cliff in front of the sea, from which it is impossible to descend.

“Whoever walks by a short way doesn’t spend the night at home.” – an old Chukchi saying.

Finally reaching the village in the Gulf of Shelagsky Cape, I see that there are only ruins left here. The settlement was abandoned in the 1960s. I didn’t take the tent with me, thinking that I will find some shelter here.

The only building that has been preserved is a metal booth, which served as a refrigerator for the local population, which was engaged in fishing. I decide to spend the night here. I change clothes, boil water, have dinner, wrap myself in a sleeping bag and go to bed.

Returning to the motorcycle, I’m going to look for the most northern camps of the prisoners of the Gulag. Leaving the sea becomes warmer.

Most of the bridges on the way are broken. There are detours along the streams. No bushes or trees grow in this part of Chukotka. The red-yellow tundra with bare mountains looks like the surface of another planet.

Behind the concrete bridge begins the ascent to the valley of the camp. On the slopes protrude huge rocks, visible remnants of wooden barracks and metal constructions. A terrible and beautiful place where, when you are alone, you want to turn around and quickly leave. I remove all things from the motorcycle in order to navigate a difficult part of the road. I discover that I have lost my bag with a raincoat and a jacket, things so necessary in Chukotka.

I leave all the things on the road. The motorcycle loaded and empty has a completely different character, as Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. The road after the stone river goes up the mountainside. Self-preservation, instinct and fear suggest that one does not need to go here, yet the adventurer and photographer want to continue.

At the top there is a view of the extinct black volcanoes. At the time a uranium ore processing plant operated.

People lived in the most severe conditions in this cold stone desert.

After walking through the stone buildings, I go down, have a snack and return to the town of Pevek. There on the road I find my lost bag of items.

Tomorrow it is predicted that there will be rain, which bothers me. On the one hand, it is impossible to wait because the rivers will rise greatly. On the other hand, I don’t want to go at all in this weather.

I meet in a cafe with Alex, the man who will lead the column of trucks to Bilibino. He knows everything about the local roads. I will need to transfer my motorcycle across deep rivers and one of the drivers agrees to take me.

I leave first. I will spend the night at the bridge over the Palyavaam river. Next, we will need to move the truck to the Chaun lowland where the largest rivers flow from the mountains into the Arctic Ocean. The total journey from Pevek to Bilibino is about 650 km, of which only 400 I will ride on the motorcycle.

The police stop me on the way out of town and make a remark that the license plate on my bike is dirty. It sounds very strange here! The road is good, but very dusty. On the way there are several beautiful passes and a couple of large abandoned villages with operating gold mining enterprises: Komsomolsky and Maysky.

A few hours later twilight passes into the night. What I do not expect to see on this stretch of road is the fords. With only 10 kilometers remaining, a large spill appears on the road. It is the first time I put on waders, take a flashlight and go in the water. It is deep so I take all things off the bike.

After a couple of kilometers I approach another wide river, but with shallower water. As a truck pulls up. I turn on the headlights so that the driver sees me and does not drive past. The occupants of the truck are hunters who will spend the night on this river. They offer me shelter in their truck, so I pull out a sleeping bag from the motorcycle and join them.

In the morning I drive only a couple of kilometers to the bridge over the Palyavaam river, where I have to wait for my truck. This bridge looks monumental here. Permafrost does not allow the local rivers to go deep, so they diverge in breadth. This whole intricate network of water flow changes annually. Therefore, the river will be directed under the bridge so that next year the water will not go around the side.

Next it is time for lunch; there is a kitchen in a large tent. In such places in Chukotka, it is customary to feed all passing drivers for free. After lunch my Kamaz truck arrives. We load the bike and drink coffee.

My driver’s name is Ruslan. He is half Chukchi and his nickname is Cap because as you might guess, he always wears a cap. After a few hours, we pass two beautiful mountain passes: White and Red. Such names are due to the color of the stones on the tops. The landscapes are very unusual. On White it’s like we are on a planet with yellow-orange hills around and brilliant rivers below. The top of the Red pass mountain is pink colored petrified clay.

From the Red mountain we pass about 30 km to the first big river, Melguveem, where we will stay overnight. We approach the river in the dark. The cars that have crossed the river, are camped in a wide valley.

August 19: On the river Chaun there are road builders who are engaged in marking up fords for drivers.

Behind the river there are wild deer. Hearing a convoy of cars, they run from the road.

We are riding in the Chaun lowland with the largest and most dangerous rivers in our way. There is so much water here that the land area is slightly larger than the area of rivers and spills.

The next big river is Ugadka. One of the trucks gets stuck in deep water; immediately the other rushes to the water to help him and pulls him to the shore with a cable.

Most machines carry large and heavy containers with cargo. Careless action while crossing a river may cause the entire machine to roll over.

There is another big river ahead - Pucheveem. We cross it and make a stop to have lunch. Some drivers go fishing. It’s starting to rain.

I plan to remove the motorcycle from the truck after 40 kilometers. The closer we get to this place, the more I worry. I do not want to be alone in the rain in the middle of the tundra. I feel like a weak traveler with this fear of being alone, the fear of uncertainty, bad weather and the rivers that rise from the rains with which I will have to exist on my own.

To change this, I need to ride a motorcycle and try to come to terms with nature and weather. All together we lower the motorcycle from the truck and I say goodbye to the drivers. I am driving away from the main road to see the lakes of Ilirney.

Behind me remains a rich red-pink sunset. I appreciate its beauty, because I did not know that such bright sunsets are harbingers of very bad weather here. The road goes along the black and red mountains.

“Chukocia is a sublime country, and we often came across mountains of amazing height. We had such species before our eyes that put our delight in thought and forced us to look at those objects with the deepest reverence.” Billings, 1791.

In the dark, a surface of water suddenly appears, illuminated by the not very dark nights of the ending polar day. On the one hand, a large lake is supported by mountains, on the other - gentle taiga slopes. Here, for the first time, I see trees in Chukotka.

On the lakes are based road builders. They were very surprised at the appearance of the motorcycle. I ask about the possibility to spend the night in one of the trailers. A couple of questions to understand who I am, and they escort me to the trailer where there is a bunk. I take a sleeping bag, food and the minimum necessities.

“Gentlemen, here is the first star appearing in the sky, I haven’t seen stars since May,” said a gray-haired, strong man referring to the first dark night.

After I finish my tea I go to the banya (sauna). Following a cold ride, hot steam and a bed seems like a real dream, which has come true!

August 20: Having slept well, I set off in the direction of the village of Ilirney. The road goes along the top of the hills, and ends with a bridge under construction over the Maly Anuy river. On the bridge I can go to the village on foot.

Ilirney is a national Chukchi village with 250 inhabitants. Judging by the empty streets, the people are all either in the tundra or on the river. In the village, it smells nicely of smoked fish and there are a lot of dogs.

Returning to the motorcycle. I put on one more layer of warm clothes, as there is a change in the weather. Snow and wind drive me out of the valley. Looking ahead 170 km to Bilibino there are several large rivers that I will need to cross. After the pass, the snow stops, it becomes warmer and the tundra again returns to bright colors instead of the snow blanket left behind.

I cross the next river: Yarakvaam. After it begins, the hills have steep ascents and descents. On the next big river, Nam-Nam, there is a monument for a driver who drowned there. At the beginning of summer, these rivers are very dangerous due to the high water and strong currents.

Next, I walk a ford on foot, carry bags to the other side and then ride through the river on my motorcycle. After the snowy wind in the Ilirney valley, a little rain no longer bothers me at all. I wanted to come to terms with the weather and now I am really calm, the fear is gone.

Yellow trees appear on the bright red tundra floor.

I stop under a wooden bridge where I escape from the rain. I prepare myself a special dinner with dessert and celebrate the achievement of the goal of my trip. The town of Bilibino is known for being the only nuclear power plant in the world in the permafrost zone, supplying electricity to human settlements in the region.

August 23: It’s my last day in Chukotka. I bought a plane ticket and before we prepare the motorcycle for wintering in Chukotka, we go with local motorcyclists to the Krutoy pass to the abandoned gold-ore mines. In the evening I take off the battery from the bike, sort out all of my things and roll the motorcycle into the container.

With a small track on the map ends a long and difficult journey to one of the most remote regions of Russia. I take with me the cold and harsh beauty of the Arctic, the bright sunsets, the silence of the autumn tundra, the noise of the wings of cranes and the glances of running deer, the clear water of hundreds of rivers and the desire to return.

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ULTIMATE

WINNER SCOTT MYERS KTM

Photos Marcin Kin

After 6 days and over 1000 kilometers of racing in the Moroccan sands as part of the Merzouga Rally against eleven other KTM ULTIMATE RACE qualifiers on equally prepared KTM 790 ADVENTURE Rs, it was the 50-year-old from the USA who tasted victory.

Scott Myers is that guy whose name we have heard a couple of times here and there in the industry over the years... that friend of a friend. We then crossed paths with him in Park City, Utah last fall at the KTM Rider Rally and all of a sudden we knew exactly who Scott Myers was. He’s the guy with the mile-wide grin and some kind of infectious positive energy. And it turns out, he can handle a motorcycle pretty well too.

This interview is a very entertaining walk through Scott’s journey to Park City where he earned a seat in the KTM Ultimate Race in Morocco this spring. We dig into where Scott comes from, what bike he took to Park City and how he ended up unconscious in the middle of the Merzouga dunes with his lead disappearing by the second...and ultimately winning the event.

Upshift: Congrats on your success at the Ultimate Race in Morocco.

Scott: Thanks, it’s been a pretty crazy couple of weeks.

Upshift: So I just want to set the table a little bit for everyone reading this and give them some background on you. First of all, how old are you?

Scott: I’m 50 man. Yeah, every bit of it. Going on 51.

Upshift: Where are you from?

Scott: Actually grew up in North Idaho, the Hayden Lake / Coeur d’Alene area until about 16 then I’ve been in California ever since.

Upshift: What do you do for a living?

Scott: I am an NCCCO-certified crane operator.

Upshift: So, remind me, what was your background in terms of racing because there’s no way you came off the couch and nailed this thing. Tell us a little bit about your history.

Scott: Yeah... definitely not. I mean, my father raced professionally back in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Back then all those guys, Dick Mann and all the boys, they rode GT and flat track and speedway and everything. Of course, no different than me with my own son today, I got into riding with my dad. I started riding when I was probably three years old, minimum. I started racing when I was five or six at the oldest, and that was about it. I definitely had a career in racing outdoor nationals and all kinds of motocross and supercross. I’ve earned national numbers but I was definitely no Ricky Carmichael, but I kind of grew up in a day-- was able to race in the days when you could actually make a pretty decent living. There were huge contingency programs in the heyday at Golden States and Summer Series, Spring Series races. I had a good time, man. I had a great career, to be totally honest. I loved it. Then I got into racing Baja. I’ve been racing Baja for over 20 years now and I have multiple championships racing down there, and that’s how I really got to know Quinn Cody.

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WINNER SCOTT MYERS

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WINNER SCOTT MYERS

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WINNER SCOTT MYERS

Upshift: The good old days.

Scott: I really got to ride in the best days, the ‘70s, ‘80s, ‘90s. You know as well as I do, I mean those were the greatest times of moto, in my opinion.

Upshift: So you obviously had a history racing and riding at a high level, and you’re passionate about it. What happened... or how did you end up in Park City? Was that something you were planning on doing before the Ultimate Challenge came about or...?

Scott: You know what, that’s kind of crazy... Quinn is really the only reason that I even got the idea of going to Park City. I had never been on an adventure bike in my life until recently. A friend of mine, Bob Johnson, old-school Honda guy for Baja, owned this ‘07 950 Super Enduro and I just thought it was the coolest bike in the world. I begged him forever to sell it to me and he never would.

Long story short, he finally broke down, bought an Africa Twin and he sold me the 950SE. And that was really my start into adventure riding, but here’s the funny part... I did not take that motorcycle on the dirt for the first year that I owned it. I think I took my wife to lunch up in Idyllwild a couple times on it, and I didn’t really have anybody to ride with. I didn’t have many friends that had them. It was kind of weird. So Quinn is the one that said, “Hey, man.

Do you want to try something cool? Why don’t you grab that thing and drive up to Park City and try riding the Ultimate Challenge? We’re doing this ultimate race, and I think you’d do good, and you fit right into the whole idea of what we want to do.” And that was it, man. I literally just showed up, and I had not ridden that motorcycle in the dirt until I pulled up to the line for the special test in Park City.

Upshift: And tell us a little about the bike. It had a monster tank on it, right?

Scott: Yeah, I showed up with an eight-gallon tank, I had full saddlebags, I had no idea what was going on.

I thought I was riding to Cabo, man. I had extra jackets, plenty of gas, oil and some spare parts. I had no idea what the hell I was doing. People were looking at me and laughing at me like you could have left your bags back at the hotel at least, or four of those gallons of gas. I even topped off at the gas station that morning. I was prepared for everything.

Upshift: [Crying I’m laughing so hard]

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WINNER SCOTT MYERS

Scott: I went from being a professional my whole life to probably the biggest laughing-stock rookie there. So I raced the special with full bags [laughter]. I mean, a whole tank of gas and full bags. Dude, you see the pictures and people are just laughing their ass off at me. I had the windshield going. I had the whole thing... it was awesome. And I won it. I killed them on the special test. I mean, it was rad. Everybody was like, “Who is this guy [laughter] who’s the fat dude with the full battle bag, [laughter]?”

I don’t even know where I’m going asking everyone, “Where do I go?” It was crazy. That was my jump into adventure bike riding. That was it, right there.

Upshift: That’s pretty amazing! So you lock in a spot in Park City, and it was really a fun thing to watch and be a part of for us. Then there’s a bit of time in between then and when you go to Morocco. What did you do during that time to get ready?

Scott: You know I tried my best to eat a little bit better and lose a few pounds before I headed off to race a six-day rally. I really just got on my motorcycle a lot. I rode a lot with my son every weekend. I rode almost every weekend with Shane Esposito, one of my best friends. I just tried to get some consistent seat time on the bike on all types of terrain and different situations I could get myself into. Other than that, I mean, working full time and having my family and everything in between, that’s all I had time for. So I’d try to fit one day a week in.

Upshift: So you get to Morocco. That’s quite the flight over there. It’s a haul. How were you feeling? When you got on the ground there, were you thinking, “I’ve got this thing” or what was going through your head?

Scott: I’ll tell you what made me just a little bit worried at first. It was supposed to be GPS navigational and we were just going to have our own course. We were going to go to these waypoints and in between these waypoints, we were going to do a special test, which would have been similar to all of the ultimate challenge events that they did all over the world. Then they handed us a bike with a road book on it. and told us, “You’re going to ride the same rally as everybody else. There’s going to be a couple of little diversions that we’re going to take you out of the massive, massive dunes.” And that was it. On top of that, we were only able to use the Stella unit. They use them down in Baja, down in the SCORE Series. So, this little computer setting has your CAP heading, your waypoints, your speed zones, your odometer, your speed, all of that kind of stuff is all on this one little box. Well, the problem is, you need to have adjustment of an odometer to match your road book. The entire idea of rally racing is you’re following this roadbook, you come to a certain turn, and you need to look over and make sure that your odo matches your road book. If it doesn’t, then you have your handlebar switches and you’re able to, within seconds, put it right back to the exact odo. So you know that you’re on course, and boom, off you go again.

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BALLISTIC JERSEY

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WINNER SCOTT MYERS

The reason they did this was to try to slow us, average guys, down. We were just a bunch of average guys, in general, that were going to race this race and they didn’t want us trying to do this at speed. So for us, we had the road book, but we had to legitimately stop and open up the different aspects of the Stella to even get to the point where we were able to adjust it. So if you wanted to stop and adjust your odometer because you got off track, it was a two or three-minute process. Well, that’s a lot to do when you’re trying to “race” [laughter]. For me, personally, that was the thing I was stressed about the most, was being able to try to race and be competitive, be smart about when to adjust that odometer and when not to. On top of that, I’d never navigated in my life so I had no idea what I was doing [laughter].

Upshift: So you had never navigated using a roadbook before?

Scott: Never. I went out with Quinn one day up in Barstow. And I thought, “Oh. This will be cool. I’d like to just see what these guys do.” I had a road book. He gave me a road book thing to follow. I had a little Rally Blitz app on my phone, and that was it. I went and rode around with those guys and checked it out and that was my navigational skills before I showed up [laughter].

Upshift: So did you talk with the other competitors? Was everybody else kind of in the same boat? Or were there guys like, “Oh, I got this”?

Scott: There were a few guys that were like, “Look, I’ve never even seen a real book in my life.” Then there were a couple of guys like the two Canadians, who just got back from riding the Sonora Rally the weekend before. So they’re pretty up on rally. Jordan, the other American who won in Park City, he drove all the way out to take Scotty Bright’s two-day rally school. So those guys had at least a pretty good idea of how to do it, how to look at a road book, what to look for, what not to look for. I was worried, I’ll be honest. I felt that I had the speed on everybody with my experience but I really really thought that the navigation was going to be my downfall.

Upshift: So clearly, navigation wasn’t your downfall. How did that kind of progress work for you? Did you just fall into a rhythm and nail it or did you just get lucky? What happened?

Scott: That’s pretty much exactly it. I found it to be not as difficult as I thought it was. I love the idea of navigation anyway. Racing off-road and Baja, it’s not so much that type of navigation but it does require some navigation, at least knowing your bearings. So I’ve always felt that was pretty naturally for me. It was just very different to have to put all of these things together and then obviously race the motorcycle on top of it. I found that the navigation itself in this race was very hard. But to do the navigation, to pay attention, it took me a couple of days to get used to it but I got better and better at it. It was great having Quinn there to help out. Mark Koma, of all people, was there every day. The greatest rally navigator on earth, sitting there at a table with me, helping me figure stuff out. It was just awesome. I would say that it went relatively smoothly. I got lost a few times, just like everybody else, but I guess I just ended up doing a little better and it worked out.

Upshift: So with the other competitors that were there, was there camaraderie or was it definitely competition?

Scott: It was absolutely the best 11 guys that I could imagine asking for. Every single one of us from the minute that we shook hands, absolutely had the best time. There was no competitive nature whatsoever at the end of each day. Everybody just had the best time.

I would say my buddy Kevin, one of the Kiwis, the farmer from New Zealand, he was probably the most competitive guy there. He was dead serious and he was not messing around when we were out there riding. There was not too much of a buddy system with him [laughs]. Everybody else sort of worked together here and there. Kevin wanted to win [laughs]. But it was great. There’s no way it could’ve been a better group. Smiles every day.

Upshift: That’s awesome. So what did you think about Morocco?

Scott: I thought Morocco was amazing. They didn’t really let us just head to town or anything. We stayed at the hotel every day. We didn’t really go anywhere other than heading out to race. You could definitely tell that a lot of people struggle there and there’s not a lot of money, but very hard working people and all very nice. So it was great, man, and I’ve never seen so many sand dunes in my entire life. It was crazy.

Upshift: That’s what I was going to ask next. Did the sand suit you or were you struggling with it at all?

Scott: I struggled in the sand. Rocky roads, the technical stuff, the high-speed stuff all suits my style perfectly. But, I’ve never even ridden my own big bike in the dunes. I will say one thing: the 790 was amazing. I mean it handled so good for an adventure bike. I was totally blown away. But at the same time, yeah, I struggled. The sand over there is so soft at points that your bike would instantly be completely buried and you’d be flying over the bars. It was just like you went in a hole. There was no gassing out of it, there was no momentum that you could get. You were going to be there for a few minutes trying to get your bike out. And the most important thing was getting your bike out of that situation without blowing it up, without melting the clutch, without... you know how you’re hard on something when you’re that stuck and you start getting very stressed and sweating and you’re trying to figure out how to get your bike unstuck and you don’t want to hurt it. To me, the sand was a struggle.

Upshift: So the 790 performed well. You felt like it was a good weapon for you to be on?

Scott: I thought it was phenomenal. I absolutely love that motorcycle. I was very lucky to get a couple of weeks on a pre-production that Quinn gave me the opportunity to get a little bit of seat time. And so I had a little bit of an idea of what to expect out of the bike when I got there but I was absolutely impressed. I loved the bike. It handles phenomenal. The motor is just a dream to ride. I loved it. I loved every single thing about the bike.

Upshift: How do you feel about the 790 compared to your 950 Super Enduro?

Scott: Two different animals. But the 950, in my opinion, is a dirt bike with a giant tank and a giant motor. It’s got real dirt bike suspension and ergonomics... it’s just a big dirt bike. Yes, you can travel to places or go on an adventure but it’s definitely not a street bike. So what I found with the 790, in my little bit of experience in riding others-- I’ve ridden the Africa Twin, I’ve ridden 1090s and the other stuff, I think KTM got exactly what they were looking for. I personally think that they had been missing the mark ever since they stopped making the 950, they got away from a dirt-friendly adventure bike. It’s hard for your average guy to take out a 1090 or a 1290 and go riding in the hills in Idaho, for that matter. You know what I mean? You just wouldn’t do it, and your most average guy’s definitely not going to do it. So I think they really found a niche with a modern day adventure bike, with all the cool little bells and whistles, the ABS, the traction control, just the modernization of an adventure bike, but really dirt-friendly. Great dirt suspension, obviously lighter than one of the bigger adventure bikes, has a good feel to it, has a high fender like a dirt bike, and that kind of thing. So it has a dirt bike feel to it first, and then it’s an adventure bike, in my opinion. So I loved it. I mean, I absolutely loved it. For that guy that’s wanting to get into this-- a perfect example would be a guy like me that is into dirt bike riding first, this is going to be absolutely the only and best bike to buy. Until somebody comes out with something that’s even similar, they’re going to own the market on this.

Upshift: So you’re now going to get a 790 for winning in Morocco right?

Scott: I am. They were originally going to give us the bike that we raced. Luckily, getting a bike from Austria to California and registered is more complicated than necessary, they are going to just get me a new one. I was thinking about some of the holes that I hit and some of the abuse that bike took, and I’m thinking, “Man, I’m really glad they decided to give me a brand-new one.”

Upshift: So you’ve kind of gotten a bit of attention all of a sudden, globally. How’s that feeling?

Scott: You know what? It’s kind of amazing. I’ll be totally honest, I obviously know a lot of people in the motorcycle industry. I’ve been in it my entire life. I mean, there’s probably not a person that I don’t really know somehow, someway, and I have just been hearing from people from literally all over the world. It’s really crazy. I mean, I have new friends from everywhere: New Zealand, Australia, Italy, Germany, South Africa, Canada. I mean, I’ve got all these new friends and new people that have been following this thing and are just excited about it. It’s been crazy, man.

Upshift: So on a scale of 1 to 10, how tired were you?

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WINNER SCOTT MYERS

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WINNER SCOTT MYERS

Scott: Seriously, a 10. I mean, I really was. I don’t think I’ve ever had to deal with that much mental and physical stress ever in my life. It’s one thing to have physical fatigue in moto and the same thing with Baja, or even a little bit of mental strain when you’re riding for so long. But to put navigation, and racing, and so much on the line in a country that-- it’s just amazing. I mean, you’re out there racing, and you’re like, “I’m in Morocco, navigating on a 790.” I mean, it’s just incredible. You find yourself just holding your breath sometimes. And then, I kind of almost screwed up the whole entire thing. I have this perfect week, I mean, I had an absolutely perfect week of no problems, no crashes. A couple of little tip-overs in the sand and stuff like that, but no big deal. Arrived at the last test on the last day and it’s 50 kilometers, only in the dunes, CAP heading only, and it’s just full-blown, wide-open, in the dunes, and basically, you’re following tracks because the UTVs went ahead of us, the pro bikes, the enduros, so you really were just following tracks.

Upshift: So the navigation isn’t as much of a concern at this point? It’s just good old fashioned racing?

Scott: So, funny story: I raced with my buddy Kevin from New Zealand. He was the fastest guy in the sand, hands down. I mean, I had to do everything in my power to stay with him in the sand dunes and he really was consistent and fast. So we took off, we had this huge lead on everybody and we kept passing each other. He would pass me, he’d get stuck, and I’d pass him. And then I would crash, and he would pass me, and then he would crash, and I would pass him.

So we had about four kilometers, five kilometers left and he had crashed in the dunes pretty good. He was down, his bike was buried, and I thought, “Man, you know what?

I got this. I can see the finish down the way, all I got to do is just stay on two wheels and cruise into the finish, I’ll get the last stage win.” I already had a 33 minute lead on the guy that was 25 minutes behind me already. So anyway, to make a long story short, I came up over this dune, and I misread it, and I didn’t make it up. I couldn’t make it up, so I circle back around, I came up over the dune again, I knifed the front end into some soft sand and it shot me over, right as I was getting ready to shift into fourth so I could make it up this huge hill, and I hit a piece of camel grass, it flipped me over the bars so hard, it knocked me out. It knocked me out cold for a second.

Upshift: What?

Scott: I swear! Can you even imagine what was going through my head at this point when I kind of came to, and I’m trying to get my senses back. I’m trying to stand up and I was so dizzy I kept falling back down. I couldn’t stand up. So now I’m just going through the roof, right? I am sweating, my entire face is bleeding, because I landed on my face first. I landed so fast and so hard, that’s what I hit first. Anyway, so yeah, it took me a few minutes.

I look up, one of the times I’ve fallen over just trying to stand up, and Kevin comes riding by and he takes off, and I’m like, “Oh my God. I hope I can get myself together.” The bike is completely upside down, pointing downhill in the dunes. It took every bit of strength and willpower that I’ve ever had in my entire life, and I hope I never am this tired again. I get that motorcycle upright, started, and going again. I go about 25 feet so I can get a run back up this hill that I still haven’t made it up and I fall over going downhill again [laughter]. It was crazy. It was the craziest ending you could ever ask for. I still couldn’t even see straight. Finally got the bike back up again for the second time and I just rode it. I just sat on my fat ass and I rode that thing. I cruised it all the way to the finish and that was it. Man, that was the end of my thing. I pulled in, my whole face was just bleeding. I think there’s a photo of it. It was unbelievable, dude. The feeling of everything that was going through my mind was like nothing you can even imagine.

Upshift: It’s quite the accomplishment to finish anything period.

And you pulled it off, so that’s all that counts, right?

Scott: Yeah, Quinn and Jake were yelling at me, “What are you doing? Are you serious right now? You just rode 1,200 kilometers for six days straight, and you throw it away in the sand dunes with 4K to go?” [laughter] Oh my God, I felt so bad. Marcon is just looking at me like, “You’re such an idiot.” It was something else.

Upshift: So what’s next for you?

Scott: Well, I’m not allowed to race it again. [laughter] I’m just so thankful to KTM for everything. They’re actually going to send me up to the KTM Rally in Breckenridge to represent KTM for the Ultimate Race up there and help out a little bit. So they’re going to take my bike up there and fly me out. I’m so excited to kind of be a part of it in that aspect. And there’s no real pressure on me.

It’ll be really cool to work with the guys and be able to answer questions for them and just be part of it. So I’m really looking forward to that.

Upshift: Well we will see you there then. Thanks for the time Scott.

Scott: Yeah, thanks man. Appreciate the call and I’ll see you in Colorado.

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WINNER SCOTT MYERS

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WINNER SCOTT MYERS WATCH HOW SCOTT WON THIS NEW KTM 790 ADVENTURE R

Some of the brands that have helped Scott over the years and in Morocco: Motion Pro - https://www.motionpro.com/ Seat Concepts - https://seatconcepts.com/ IMS Products - https://www.imsproducts.com/ Dunlop Tires - https://www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com/tires/ FMF - https://www.fmfracing.com// 6D Helmets - https://www.6dhelmets.com/ GPR Stabilizers - https://precisionconceptsracing.com/ Precision Concepts - https://precisionconceptsracing.com/ Bullet Proof Design - https://bulletproofdesigns.com/ Sidi Boots - https://www.motonation.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=2 O’neal Gear - https://www.oneal.com/ ZLT Graphics - http://zltmxid.com/ Seal Savers - https://www.sealsavers.com/ Flow Vision - https://flowvisionco.com/

FUELING YOUR PASSION

At Rottweiler Performance, our focus has always been to ask the question, “How can we take these incredibly well engineered machines and creatively manipulate them into what we, as a unique consumer with personalized needs would want from a motorcycle?”

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FOCUS ON Nylon mounting plates, work on most racks on the market

High visibility, ultrasonic sealed inner bag, M.O.L.L.E. webbing on side and bottom IP65 standard 100% water and dust proof (accessory adapters included)

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GRAVEL-T is a range of 100% waterproof soft bags, geared towards off-road and RTW use. The GRT709 Canyon soft panniers are the perfect alternative to hard side cases, as they offer 35 liter capacity each and they can be locked to their universal mounting plates.

The provided mounts adapt to most side cases racks available on the market, although they work in perfect combination with the ones made by GIVI. • 100% waterproof • 35 liter capacity each • Lockable to their plates • Integrated M.O.L.L.E. system

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K O N F L I C T

There’s this belief in the motorcycle industry that suspension tuning is a dark art – that what’s done at a suspension tuner’s shop involves voodoo, black magic, and practices not understood by mere mortals. It sounds plausible. You send in your suspension and it comes back looking the same, save for different colored seals and new stickers, yet it works exponentially better than the suspension you sent in. It must be the stickers. If you checked the right boxes, your suspension may even have a beautiful new color scheme, which of course is from a dip in the aforementioned cauldron o’ voodoo, and not from having parts anodized or coated. In reality, what suspension tuners can do to your bike’s suspension can make the greatest difference in your bike’s performance and help make you a faster rider, more so than any other part or modification. Think about that for a second. Riders come in all shapes and sizes, so making suspension work at its peak for that given rider is no easy task. In an effort to find out exactly how suspension goes from stock to perfectly configured for each individual, I recently spent a couple of days at Konflict Motorsport’s new home in Austin, TX to see what sort of magic has just moved to the Lone Star State.

M

O T O R S P O R T S

Walking into the front door of Konflict Motorsport’s shop, you instantly come to understand a few things about the company and its founder Alex Martens: Motorcycles are so much more than a day job, for one. Looking around, your eyes land upon memorabilia from some of our sport’s biggest names, like Short and Poskitt. Numerous other items tell the story of a deep-rooted passion for motorcycles that has led Alex far and wide on great rides and adventures. The Rally Pan-Am trailer out front is still wearing mud from Baja, and a Sonora Rally hat is perched on Alex’s head as he works to get the shop ready for a special event to celebrate opening for business in Texas: Lyndon Poskitt is going to be talking about everything that he’s done riding more than 5.4 zillion miles on almost every continent with Races 2 Places and racing events like the Dakar Rally. Konflict could have just said, “Hey we’re open in Texas” but Alex wanted to share something special with the local moto community, which is why Lyndon is here.

As I help Alex and Lyndon get setup, I have a chance to check out all of the awesome parts, tools, and bikes that are in the Konflict Motorsports shop. You can tell a great deal about someone by the gear that they keep in their shop, and Alex’s is full of equipment and bikes that are well used, and well adventured. This gear belongs to a man who lives the life, rather than just works in the industry. The shelves are stocked with parts for all kinds of suspension work and for supporting rally racing which Alex does through Rally Pan Am. There are the obvious parts like springs, and then there are parts that I’ve never seen before – and I’m no stranger to the inside of a fork tube. Alex does his own prototyping and development of parts, which is why he’s got a lathe along one wall and a new Bridgeport mill on the way. Based on what he did to the suspension for my KTM 500 EXC-F (read about that here) the man is a suspension savant, and so much more than someone just following a manufacture’s configuration chart. He has also figured out some great ways to explain to people how suspension actually works, such as cut-a-way suspension assemblies, which are great table decorations for the food for Lyndon’s presentation.

Before we know it, every seat in the house is filled, and bikes and trucks keep pulling up. Lyndon delivers a great talk that has folks leaning in. If you’ve never looked Lyndon up, do it – the man has seriously been there and done that, and his story will get you inspired to get out and ride.

During an intermission the crowd spills out onto the driveway and into the street as folks check out bikes, swap stories and share laughs. Alex has provided a great event for the community to come together, get inspired, and hang out. A couple hours later, Lyndon’s presentation is over, and everyone starts to head home. Alex stands by the door to thank everyone for coming out. As guests leave, they offer sincere thanks and I lose count of the number of times comments are made to the effect of, “Welcome to Austin.” Clearly, the moto community is stoked to have Konflict Motorsports in Texas.

The next morning, I find Alex at work on the suspension for a 300 XC-W TPI. Watching Alex work is like watching a world-renown surgeon in the OR. He has all the right tools and a practiced hand that’s rock solid as he disassembles a fork tube while carrying on a conversation with me. He’s so familiar with this process that he’s even developed a few of his own tools, as he has figured out a better way to do something than the way commercially manufactured tools work. After a second spent contemplating the function of the commercially made tool vs Alex’s tool, I realize that Konflict Motorsports should be selling suspension tools in addition to top shelf suspension services.

As we dig into the 300’s shock, Alex tells me of his love for the testing process and working to make suspension have exactly the characteristics he wants it to have. Suspension plays a key part in chassis setup which makes a huge difference in how a bike rides. Alex taps into his racing support and rally background to provide his clients with a more holistic approach to bike setup that covers more than just suspension. The end result is that properly setup suspension installed in a properly setup chassis works leaps and bounds better than simply having your suspension setup for you. Talking about chassis setup leads us to talking about Rally Pan Am, where Alex works to help grow and support North American Rally efforts. I’m once again reminded of Alex’s love for the community when he mentions that Rally Pan Am puts on a free rally school – just to help get more people into a sport that Alex and crew clearly love.

There isn’t any voodoo or black magic in play at Konflict Motorsports. There is however, an extremely talented crew who is knowledgeable, and perhaps most importantly, extremely passionate about riding, racing, and good suspension. Sending your suspension off to someplace you’ve never been may give you pause, yet after watching how well suspension is cared for under the Konflict Motorsports roof, I can confidently say that this is as good as it gets. From the initial consultation, to actually performing the work, to supporting the client afterward (I may or may not have called Alex last year in the middle of a big ride for some clutch setup advice), Konflict Motorsports provides a top shelf experience for each client that translates into a real difference in your bike. Alex and crew are stand up people who do outstanding work to make your bike ride better than you ever thought possible. Oh, and the Konflict stickers are the best quality suspension stickers I’ve ever seen. www.konflictmotorsports.com

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TESTED

BY SIMON CUDBY

MOSKO MOTO BACKCOUNTRY 35L PANNIER KIT Looking back on my first real adventure bike, a 2014 KTM 1190R, I remember the hard metal cases that came with the bike, and thinking that was “the look.” It took one trip to Baja and a few leg-smashing spills in the sand, to quickly realize that the metal box system was probably better suited to strictly road riding. Enter Mosko Moto soft bags.

These days I’m riding a 2018 KTM 1090R, and as I still have the pannier racks from my 1190, I ordered up the Mosko Moto Backcountry 35 liter pannier kit that includes all the mounting hardware to attach to my frame. The kit is a two-bag system that utilizes a genius wedge mount system with a latch that allows you to take the bags on and off in just a second or two, once you get to your camp area after a long day on the trail.

The kit also includes the required hardware and mounting pucks. We used this set up on a weeklong trip in Baja on the big KTM and also on a Royal Enfield Himalayan on our India trip. The mounting on both bikes was different due to different size pannier racks, but the puck mounting system allowed easy adjustment for the different frames and we had zero issues getting the wedge mounts to fit.

The bags themselves are typical Mosko Moto quality, that is to say pretty much bullet proof. The ballistic nylon outer shell material is very heavy duty, and the kit includes a pair of waterproof 22oz PVC inner bags to keep your gear dry. Weighing in at nine pounds per side that includes required hardware, and with the side mounted set up, the handling on the trail on my 1090R felt better than the other Mosko bag system I have used, the Reckless 80L kit. I’m sure this is due to the loaded bags being lower, and the bike not feeling top heavy. Having said that, there is still a lot of space for additional luggage on the stock luggage rack on top of my bike, but overall the weight distribution is now lower.

Other features are Molle panels on the front and bottom, and a rear pocket on each bag that will fit tools and a few small fuel cans.

In conclusion, the folks at Mosko have come up with my new go-to luggage set up for big trips.

You can tell they really have thought through the design. There are always those moments when you get their gear and you think, “Oh… I know why they did that! That makes sense.” MSRP for the full kit is $730.00. www.moskomoto.com

TECH

BY SEIJI ISHII

LED Lighting for the Adventure Rider It’s more than just lumens and watts!

Auxiliary lighting is a popular aftermarket upgrade for adventure riders that adds performance and safety. Light emitting diode (LED) technology marches forward, creating more powerful, efficient, and affordable illumination options, while marketing efforts throw out confusing numbers and superlatives. This article aims to filter through the jargon of aftermarket LED lighting to help the Upshift Online reader spend their hard-earned money wisely.

Is it just lumens?

LEDs emit more light than incandescent bulbs per watt of electricity, one of many advantages of LEDs over standard lighting. Marketing materials continually spout lumens, but how does that relate to usable light for the rider?

A lumen is a unit of measure for brightness; this specification allows shopping for the amount of light instead of comparing lights strictly by wattage. But it’s not as simple as that. Other equally important considerations include directing that light via reflection by reflectors and refraction by lenses. There are also heat dissipation issues and deciding what array of LED emitters is best for the application.

We consulted with Darryl VanNieuwenhuise of Cyclops Adventure Sports and Trent Kirby of Baja Designs to clarify the nuances of LED lighting and to guide us through the marketing hype.

The importance of optics “Optics are key in quality LED auxiliary lighting; lumen ratings are generally blown out of proportion due to the influx of inexpensive Chinese made products that attempt to fool you into thinking more is better. Often, it is the opposite,” states VanNieuwenhuise.

Kirby offers similar advice: “Lumens are only a small part of the equation. Going back to halogen and HID days, 4”, 6”, and 8” auxiliary lights all used the same wattage/lumen bulb yet the performance varied greatly between them. Reflector technology is a key component and our optics incorporate reflectors designed in-house, with a proprietary coating sequence for higher reflectivity, manufactured with the tightest tolerances.”

TECH: LED Lighting for the Adventure Rider According to VanNieuwenhuise, lamps using a single LED emitter and a larger reflector are superior to most lights boasting higher lumen ratings and wattage.

“At 10 watts of power we can see distance readings at nearly 900 feet (3.7-inch diameter light), compared with a multi-emitter model pulling 40 watts that reach out to somewhere around 300 feet, both beam angles being equal,” states VanNieuwenhuise.

Baja Designs prefers multiple emitters. “Multiple LEDs allows us to fine tune the light dispersion ensuring maximum coverage for all zones,” says Kirby. Baja Designs divides up the viewing field into five zones and addresses each for the most effective coverage.

Another critical factor to consider is beam patterns; brands offer multiple variations to address specific requirements and preferences.

Cyclops Adventure Sports utilizes easily removed filters to provide a convenient and effective way to create a distinct low beam style cutoff pattern, while still allowing the rider to take advantage of full power lighting when appropriate.

Also, models are available in various beam widths and width combinations (different beam angle in the left and right lights).

According to VanNieuwenhuise, “Only single emitter lights can produce filter aided cutoff patterns. The light must have a distinct cutoff beam pattern that is conveniently dimmed to avoid blinding oncoming drivers. Motorcyclists do not need to create more enemies on the roads. An additional advantage of filters is the ability to convert bright white light into amber light, which is more effective in fog, rain, and dust. The amber color can also provide increased contrast, making the rider and bike more visible to others sharing the road.”

Baja Designs offers replacement lenses and reflectors, which specifically address their lighting zones; users can change beam patterns on certain models and replace damaged parts without voiding their limited lifetime recreational warranty. Baja Designs incorporates polymer O-rings to provide a MIL-810G (multifaceted), IK10 (impact) and IP69K (waterproofness) rated seal and allow expansion and contraction in response to changes in temperature and pressure.

Cyclops Adventure Sports certifies their lights at IP68 for waterproofness, 15.6g for vibration, and will replace the polycarbonate lens under warranty unless the breakage was due to crashing.

Color temperature is also an important factor in the optical quality of the light. Cyclops Adventure Sports employs a very bright white 5600K to provide better visibility to others during the day while maintaining optimal illumination for the rider at night. Baja Designs favors a warmer 5000K color, to reduce rider fatigue and improve terrain recognition.

What about the advertised power ratings?

Again, the buyer must sift through marketing, which often pushes more emitters with more wattage, and consider if the claims are valid and how the power serves the adventure rider.

Kirby warns consumers of LED lighting companies that attempt to fool consumers via false claims and advertising. Baja Designs drives their emitters safely and reliably at 100% of their claimed power and amperage. Lesser brands can claim high numbers but in reality, push their LEDs at a small fraction of their advertised specifications.

TECH: LED Lighting for the Adventure Rider

“We spec tightly binned LED’s (binning is an LED categorization system using lumens, voltage, can color) assuring our specifications are 100% accurate, and our lights have very little variation from light to light,” says Kirby.

VanNieuwenhuise concurs. “We only use top binned emitters direct from Cree. There are plenty of fake or cloned Cree emitters coming out of China, some with bogus wattage claims. It’s getting tough for consumers to tell the difference.”

Higher wattage also means more heat, especially when running lights for extended periods at low speeds.

“Baja Designs uses a Thermal Gap Pad; this keeps the entirety of the circuit board to remain in contact with the housing, maximizing heat transfer away from the LED’s,” says Kirby. This gap pad also mitigates shock and vibration, improving durability and longevity of the light.

“Also, our circuit boards feature an electronic thermal management system which constantly monitors and adjusts power consumption based upon the internal temperature of the product,” adds Kirby.

“Radiant cooling with fins works most of the time and it’s inexpensive,” says VanNieuwenhuise. “At Cyclops Adventure Sports, we also use electronic thermal management through pulse width modulation. PWM flashes the light at a rate undetectable to the human eye, dimming the light until the temperature is back in check without starving it for power, which can cause premature failure.”

Conclusions The statements from Kirby and VanNieuwenhuise support that consumers should avoid relying solely on lumen and wattage ratings to drive purchasing decisions. Buyers must also be aware of low-quality versions produced with dubious materials and manufacturing methods.

“There are great companies offering quality lights with a fair price tag; if the price is less than your monthly cell phone bill and it has a large lumen claim, you’re better off looking elsewhere. Chances are you will be spending that money again shortly. There is also no need to spend a grand on quality lights, plenty of fantastic options exist in today’s marketplace,” says VanNieuwenhuise.

“We understand enthusiasts want the lumen measurement to compare high-performance lighting solutions. Unfortunately the variety of LEDs adds complexity to the buying experience. If the lighting manufacturer doesn’t know which specific LEDs are being used or the angle of the beam pattern, I would consider another brand. Riders also need to keep in mind that some third-party manufacturers are only driving LEDs at 50% lumens/wattage, yet claim 100% output while also using counterfeit LEDs,” warns Kirby.

Finally, there are warranty considerations. Both Cyclops Adventure Sports and Baja Designs back their auxiliary lighting products with limited lifetime warranties to the original owner, serviced right here in the United States.

Due diligence and research allow the adventure rider to make intelligent choices and find the LED auxiliary lighting that best suits his or her budget and needs.

Photos and Words by Suzanna Bostock

Before we left on our adventure, so may people told us about the Ruta 40 in Argentina. It’s over 5000km meandering down almost the entire length of the country, making it one of the longest roads in the world, crossing a large number of National Parks, rivers and mountain passes. It was definitely on our list. We’d looked at the map and it seemed most people took the asphalt route directly from Salta, southwest over to the Ruta 40. However, we wanted to get closer to the top as we’d heard that the mountain passes and dirt roads were spectacular. Luckily this turned out to be the case.

Heading north out of Salta on the stunning, meandering RN9 we passed through a huge lush green area of dense forest, up towards San Salvador de Jujuy. We continued on, then hanging a left onto the RN52 where we started to climb up as it headed towards the border with Chile. The road was tarmac, however the numerous switchbacks were great fun and the views over the valley made up for the lack of dirt. Before we reached Chile we intercepted the RN40 and started to head South, now on fun dirt roads. We were relieved that with the gain in altitude the temperature had dropped a little making riding much more comfortable.

It was great to be back on the dirt and in the mountains, especially as there was virtually no traffic at all on the road. The route was way better than we expected, and as we reached the highest point we found a spot to pull over with a breathtaking view which went on for miles, with a rich blue sky backdrop. We also met a friendly fox, which came up to us, I assume because he was hoping to get some food. However, I had absolutely nothing to give him so I felt a bit bad. We continued on as the road etched its way through the valley, our surroundings constantly changing and getting better and better the further south we headed. There were about six water crossings to pass before arriving in Cachi, which were great fun and not too challenging for me with my loaded DR650, plus the rock formations were truly stunning.

After finally making it to Cachi we pulled over and bought some tortillas from a lady at a local street food stall at a bargain price of about 75 cents each. After devouring them in no time at all it was then off to Utopia Overland Camp, about another 35km south. The road continued to be fun dirt, curving left and right through the beautiful countryside and once in Seclantás we took the 6km detour to the campsite. There were small sections of sand and bull-dust, but nothing too crazy and the local dogs seemed to be quite chilled out, opting not to chase us, which was a blessing. We were cheerfully greeted by the overloading couple Martina and Johan who welcomed us in and showed us where to set up our home for the next few days. It had been a long, hot day, but after a beer and some travel chat we felt much better.

After four super chilled nights in Utopia we were off again, this time to the famous wine making area of Cafayate. The road was dusty dirt, often with quite gravely corners, but so long as you weren’t riding like a maniac it was fantastic. It’s always better for me because I always ride in front, however I usually cover Kelvin in a layer of dust when on these roads, especially when it’s bone dry, and this was another one of those days.

On reaching Cafayate we found a place to stay and a cheap winery tour to go on, which just had to be done. You can’t be in wine country and not partake in some of the local produce!

We also found out about a great road for a day trip, the RN68. We decided to ditch our stuff and make the most of the route for one day and off we went, following the perfect tarmac into the red valley. There were natural amphitheaters you could walk into, stunning deep red rock formations that towered upwards, vast valleys to enjoy as well as dry red river beds which went off into the deep canyons.

We decided to follow a couple of these dry rivers and have a bit of an adventure, which was great fun. The ground was firm enough and you just had to make sure to dodge the large rocks that were dotted around here and there, but it was well worth the detour.

At this point we decided to use the Ruta 40 more as a direction guide as the majority would now be asphalt, and take routes off it to explore the Argentinian countryside. Our next port of call was Tafi del Valle, following RP307 off the Ruta 40. Once again we’d made a good call. The route was beautiful with some pretty little villages which made me think of being in the Swiss countryside, and once we got closer to the small village of Tafi del Valle, the mountains opened up in front of us and we could see a huge lake with a angry looking sky hovering above it. The contrast between the bright blue where we were and the approaching storm hanging over the lake was an awesome sight, although we knew we would be heading right through it. Damn!

We continued on, and as we crossed out of the village the wet fog of the storm clouds clung onto our visors making riding a bit more of a challenge, and you could smell the heat coming off the road as the water hit it. Fortunately this was short lived and before long we were heading off on the RN65 in search of a campsite.

The next day we left the forest campsite we’d stayed at and followed the gravelly dirt road up into the mountain. The fog was dense, making it almost impossible to see more than a meter or so in front of the bike so we crawled along the road. The main traffic was local workers who bombed along in their trucks because they knew the road well. However, it was not a great place to end up in an accident, as the likelihood was you’d end up over the edge of the road and it was one steep, tree-filled descent. Finally we broke out of the cloud coverage back into dryness. It was like crossing a wall…suddenly the sky opened up, bright blue with the sun beating down on us. As we continued the dirt road came to the top of a mountain and you could see the track weaving back and forth, hairpin after hairpin, down, down, down with one small road leading out of the bottom of the mountain in to the distance, which looked like nothingness. It was probably one of the longest, widest mountain passes we’d seen on this trip and it was great fun to ride. Sadly the nothingness that followed was real as we reached the RN60, meeting back up with the RN40 again. It was too much asphalt and straight roads for us so we looked for the next mini off-road adventure.

The first one was the RN149 before San Juan, which started with one of the most stunningly blue lakes we’d ever seen before, complete with a backdrop of snow capped mountains in the distance. Later we passed through some rugged rock formations with virtually no one else around, before meeting our friend Bryan and his girlfriend Marcela at her country house on the outskirts of the city for a juicy Argentinian Asado.

The next trip took us on the RP173 heading South out of San Rafael. We met up with some fellow DR650 riders from the USA and headed out. We decided to camp for the night but before we got there we could see a very angry storm cloud in the distance.

Luckily it had shifted before we arrived but the road was covered in huge ice balls of hail and we had to go so carefully. The mist created after the storm was eerie but kind of cool, and we managed to find a solid concrete area to set up camp, although in the morning our tent was covered in ants. Thank goodness we closed the zip properly! The best part of this route was the beautiful dirt road following the stunning, rugged canyons which were truly awe-inspiring. The condors flew over the top of the canyons watching us below curving our way through their countryside. The lakes were blue, the river was as clean as anything and the sky was bright and clear of clouds. What a perfect day! We’d been truly fortunate with the weather and finding all of these great dirt roads off the Northern section of Ruta 40 and soon we’d be entering Patagonia. We couldn’t wait!

Words: Eric Hall Photos: Josh Skolnik, Eric Hall

Hunger. Malnutrition. Desperation. Adventure? Those words aren’t always found together, but if you like to ride motorcycles and help people then you’re already a “Motorrad Angel.” I recently joined up with this adventure motorcycle charity (501.C.3) in Colombia as part of a Venezuelan refugee relief project where we (Tom Palmer, founder; Dennis Godwin, GS Trophy contestant and all-around “eagle scout of ADV”; myself) directly helped nearly 5,000 Venezuelan refugees with medical & dental services, shoes (Bosi), solar lights (MPOWERD), bus tickets, food and more.

Motorrad Angels is rapidly expanding their clean water and disaster relief mission across the globe, with chapters springing up all over mostly Latin America, as well as the UK and India. I also had the opportunity to join them a year earlier in Feb of 2017 with a Hurricane Maria relief project in Puerto Rico, at which time half the island was still without water and power.

Venezuela’s economic implosion has resulted in the largest diaspora in South American history, second only to the Syrian refugee crisis, with 10% or over 3MM having left due to no water, food or job prospects, and with only the clothing on their backs in most cases.

Most have fled to neighboring Colombia where the two countries are even more similar than the US and Canada. Colombia has taken in so many, perhaps because in the 1980’s when it was going through so many problems with drug cartels and paramilitary groups, so many Colombians fled into a much more prosperous (at the time) Venezuela.

There are quite a few graphic refuges/hostels along the highway between Cúcuta and Bucaramanga. Here refugees can get food, water, rest for the night and in some cases clothing for the colder mountainous region they’ll have to cross with elevations of 11.5k’ and overnight temps dipping below freezing.

This young mother was very pale and frail with blisters on her shoulders, arms and face from the sun. Her young son was clothed in only a pair of dirty underpants. We provided her with shoes and a bus ticket to Bucaramanga.

This young girl was following us in a small village. The Colombian Army invited us to show them how we can potentially help other villages there.

Our mission had primarily two components: one with medical and dental clinics we set up in Cúcuta (bordering Venezuela) and the other was Tom, Dennis and I on BMW R1200 GS’s and GS Adventures riding up and down the highway each day handing out shoes (many were worn out), solar lights, installing clean water filters (Sawyer) and in many cases providing refugees with bus rides to cities beyond the tall mountains such as Bucaramanga, Bogota and Medellin. The total project’s budget was just over $50k with just under half coming from another NGO, GiveTotheWorld.

We found a family of 13 huddled in this shelter in the cold rain one evening after the Red Cross shelter across the street had closed for the night. I got three cabs and we put them all up in our hotel for the night and got them a nice hot dinner and breakfast.

The next morning their rooms were spotless, beds all made. The hotel staff were at first shocked then sprang into action and extended very warm hospitality to their Venezuelan brothers and sisters.

This photo doesn’t do justice to just how thin and frail this young man was. They say Venezuelans have lost an average of 19 lbs. This man considerably more, as well as others we saw.

Equipment: The BMW GS and GS Adventure are without a doubt world leading adventure motorcycles and did not let us down a bit. We had mostly pavement but did ride some rural dirt roads out to some farms where we helped 26 farmers get clean water.

Dennis and I had the Tractionator Adventure from Motoz which were fantastic all-around even in the tropical downpours and twisty paved roads. They last forever and are a great all-around tire if you’re planning on dirt as an option. Tom had the Anakee 3 from Michelin and excelled on pavement but was regretting it a bit in the dirt.

Tom got creative in an effort to hire independent drivers willing to take refugees over the mountains. Sign reads: Plata (money) to bring to Bucaramanga.

Both Dennis and Tom became quite envious of my Carlsbad suit from Klim as they had to stop and put on/take off their rain suits every time it started/stopped raining. They were sold! I found the venting quite good as well, especially in the sleeves and legs.

I really can’t say enough good things about my Hurricane 20l backpack/tail bag from Nelson-Rigg. I’ve used the 40L size before and this 20L option was just perfect. It kept all of our solar lights and my clothing 100% dry and was very easy to attach as well as being comfortable to carry on my back off the bike. I especially liked the water bottle holders as well as the air valve that lets you compress the bag down for size.

I had hard panniers (not water proof) and wished I had my Rocky Mountain bags from Wolfman Luggage back home.

Tom Palmer here comforting two young women at a refuge in Chinocota. We not only gave them bus tickets to Pamplona, but later saw them there and got them a hotel room, bus tickets to Medellin and then got them set up in an apartment for a month with another family.

1 KTM and Husqvarna Dealer in the USA AUTHORIZED CENTER WWW.3BROS.COM

1560 SUPERIOR AVE. #C COSTA MESA, CA 92627

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