Issue 34
June 2019
YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE % 1.99 APR FOR * UP TO 60 MONTHS Choose your next ADVENTURE and receive special financing from now until June 30th, 2019 on select KTM ADVENTURE models. See full website for details.
/ktmusa
Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.
Photo: R. Schedl
Photo: R. Schedl
*Restrictions apply. See website for full details. Valid while supplies last. Offer ends June 30th, 2019.
www.kiska.com
www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com
THE PERFECT TRAIL PACKAGE RECEIVE A COMPLETE SET OF FUNCTIONAL APPAREL WITH THE PURCHASE OF A 2019 701 ENDURO.*
FLY Formula Helmet (Spread) Received
Shinko Tires (Single) Received
GMAX Helmets (Single) Received
Issue 34
KTM (Spread) Received
Husqvarna (Single) Received
FOX (Single)
Klim (Single) Received
Motorex (Spread) Rotation
Maxima (Spread)
Suzuki (Spread)
Bridgestone (Single)
Alpinestars (Single)
Konflict (1/2 Page) Rotation
JUNE 2019
100% (Spread) Received
Rottweiler (Single) Rotation
Outback Motortek (Single) Rotation
Mosko Moto (Single)
Kriega (1/2 page)
Trail Tech (Single) Received
Yoshimura (Single)
IMS (Single) Rotation
Dunlop (Single) Rotation
THE INSIDER
REV’IT (Single)
Arai (Single) Received PLACE ON RIGHT
AOMC (1/2 Page) Rotation
Seat Concepts (1/2 Page) Rotation
Motion Pro (1/2 Page) Rotation
THE GOOD STUFF
GIVI (Single) Rotation
Carl’s (Single) Need to Create
Nuetech Junebe
rietary information: These drawings contain information rietary to Upshift. Any reproduction, or transmittal of this mation without expressed written consent is prohibited by Any use partial or complete of the sordCover marks is prohibited punishable to the full extentCaroline of the law. de Vaulx
SENA Junebe
Issue 34
June 2019
LOGO SHEET
INSTA-ADV
Design Chris Glaspell
INSTAGRAM TRAVELERS
Photography Editor Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Suzanna Bostock Pete Day Olivier de Vaulx Seiji Ishii Ashley Myhre
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Contributing Photographers Suzanna Bostock Tim Burke Stephen W. Clark Thomas de Vaulx Olivier de Vaulx Ashley Myhre
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Business Development Brandon Glanville
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WEEKEND WARRIOR FITNESS
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Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2019. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and June not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.
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EXPLORING SOUTHERN CHILE
THE GOOD STUFF INSIDER: PETE DAY
Everywhere I look in the ADV world, I see things that make me happy. The notion that you need a $20,000 bike with $10,000 worth of gear is finally having its ‘Emperor Wears No Clothes’ moment. Riders are pushing further into the backcountry and deeper into remote corners of the world, on smaller and more affordable bikes. Online forums are full of ride reports from people on big international trips riding 650s, 500s, 250s… even Groms and Scooters. ADV has never been more accessible. Riders, who 10 years ago would’ve only dreamed of RTW – maybe they weren’t even in high school yet are at this very moment out there doing it. The ‘big picture’ looks good for motorcycles too. Urban congestion is a problem. Pollution is a problem. Motorcycles are a solution. The rest of the world knows this. China and India, two countries famous for congestion and pollution, produced 40 million motorcycles in 2017; not just for domestic use, but for shipment all over the world. Imagine the environmental and logistical nightmare if all of those riders bought cars? Here in the United States, we’re up against the misperception that motorcycles are gas-guzzling, credit-funded toys for aging baby-boomers and rednecks. Laws prohibiting lane-splitting, a practice embraced nearly everywhere else in the world, have removed one of the most practical benefits of a motorbike: the ability to skip traffic and reach your destination in half the time while reducing congestion for everyone else on the road. We also suffer from an obsessive and frequently misguided perception of risk. In the long term, these obstacles of perception can’t possibly stand up to the much greater forces of population growth and environmental protection, especially when the rest of the world sees things differently. The building blocks of ADV, international travel and backcountry access, are very modern and relevant topics. They provide a deep resource of imagery and travel content to inspire people who’ve never dreamed of two-wheeled travel, potentially drawing them to the sport. ADV could be the Route 66 of our generation. When we look back a few decades from now, I think we’ll view this as a ‘golden era’ of ADV; a time when we rode through the seemingly endless wilderness on public land, camping wherever we wanted. A time when we soaked in hot springs, searched for arrowheads, crossed rivers, and explored unnamed peaks. A time when international borders opened up, and we could still visit small villages that had rarely seen a foreigner. The travel stories being made right now will be told for generations. I just spent 5 days riding and camping in the desert, and we didn’t see a single rider the entire time; I love that. As ADV becomes more popular, that’s bound to change, and one day I will probably lament it. But right now this is the good stuff.
NO COMPROMISES
DOMINATOR GTX
We make no compromises with our Dominator GTX outfit. Take it around town or around the world because it’s just that competent. WWW.REVITSPORT.COM
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Upshift - June
1.
Moto Minded Stout Mount The Moto Minded Stout Mount is a Universal GPS mount that is highly adjustable, convenient and a super tough mount for your Trail Tech Voyager or any device with the AMPS bolt pattern. MSRP: $88.00. www.motominded.com Fitment: • 2008+ KTM Small Enduro Bikes up to 500 cc • 2015+ Husqvarna 250-501 cc • Bike with a 90mm width bar clamp spacing Features: • 4 different mounting positions • 20 mm of slide adjustment for even more fine tuning of the position • Works with all GPS mounts with the AMPS pattern • 2x Center 3/8” for mounting LED or similar accessory • Limited Lifetime Warranty Kit Includes • Universal GPS Center Plate (CNC polycarbonate) • 2x Billet Mounts (CNC aluminum) • Quantity 4 - M8x45 Bar Clamp Bolts
2.
Sena Mesh Intercom™ Technology Now Available For All Sena Bluetooth® Headsets With The New +Mesh Adapter Sena Technologies, Inc. the global leader in Bluetooth communication solutions for powersports has released an all new Mesh Intercom™ adapter for Sena Bluetooth headsets and helmets. +Mesh is a wireless adapter that allows any Sena Bluetooth communication product to operate using Sena’s Open Mesh protocol. Open Mesh, which is unique only to Sena, allows users to join a Mesh Intercom conversation with the single click of a button. +Mesh allows any Sena Bluetooth headset or helmet to operate with the ease of the 30K, and join an Open Mesh Intercom conversation in seconds. Sena’s Open Mesh allows riders to connect to a virtually unlimited number of riders. Mesh Intercom offers a more flexible connection allowing riders to come and go without disconnecting the rest of the group. When the +Mesh is connected to Sena’s Bluetooth headsets or helmets, motorcycle and bicycle riders can now enjoy the many benefits of Mesh technology. The easy-to-use +Mesh adapter will turn any Sena headset into a more advanced and flexible communication device with the simple push of a button. Mesh Intercom technology allows users to instantly connect to a virtually limitless number of riders and +Mesh offers a communication range of 800 meters (0.5 miles). Mesh Intercom provides a more stable connection by intelligently searching for lost intercom connections and automatically reconnecting them once back within range, while the rest of the group stays together. To ensure the best connection between your headset and the +Mesh adapter, simply attach the adapter to any surface on your motorcycle. For optimal results and to maximize your intercom range, mount the +Mesh in a spot that provides the most direct line of sight to the rider(s) with whom you wish to connect. Like all Sena products the +Mesh adapter comes with a generous 2 year warranty. To purchase the +Mesh head to www.buysena.com
Upshift - June
3.
100% ARMEGA Goggles The new ARMEGA features a fused, dual-injection frame with six different retention points to completely secure the ULTRA HD lens in place. Additionally, the frame has two latching, push-lock (quick change system) points to ease lens swaps with a couple of simple clicks. This system locks the lens with full vertical and horizontal security, making it the only goggle of its kind. In the early days of the ARMEGA project, there was one expression – one sentiment – that kept echoing through the halls at 100%. Creative Director and co-founder Marc Blanchard stated, “If you want something you’ve never had, you have to do something you’ve never done.” The ARMEGA’s frame incorporates a new sweat management system that collects and moves sweat away from the face foam and outside the goggle through an integrated sweat channel. Also, forced air intakes (in the frame) promote increased airflow to allow fogfree riding and reduced humidity as super plush triple-density foam helps cushion the goggle for a perfect riding position. “Motocross is the most brutal sport I know,” explained motocross legend Bevo Forte. “With the ARMEGA, I am amazed to see how many solutions we’re bringing. One thing is for certain - we are definitely raising the game in our sport.” Further utilizing optical technologies from their award-winning eye wear collections, 100% also offers the ARMEGA with HiPER contrast-enhancing lens technology. These lenses help filter out crossover distortions from the three primary colors humans see (red, green and blue). The resulting lenses offer ramped up contrast, helping riders experience unmatched depth-perception and detail in the goggle’s. Falcon5 - HiPER Red Mirror MSRP: $ 120.00, Lightsaber MSRP: $90.00 to $100.00. www.ride100percent.com
Features: • Ultra HD – Injected high impact resistant Ultra HD optically correct lens • Integrated 6–point molded Locking Tabs – For maximum lens retention • Sealing – Full contour compression gasket for maximum lens sealing • Dual Push to lock & lift – To release security latches for maximum lens security • Fully bonded Dual Injection Frame – For maximum strength & durability • Hi-flow direct injected Air Intake Ports – For maximum humidity evacuation • Ultra-Wide Strap – With thick silicon bead for maximum grip • Plush 3D molded face foam – For maximum ergonomics and comfort • Fully perforated Triple Layer Face Foam – For sweat collection distribution • Next generation sweat collection management and drainage system • Hi-flow Air Intake Ports – with distribution up & around face foam for added cooling • Removable Nose Guard – for extra deflection against roost and debris • Supports Triple Post Racing Tear-Offs (Sold Separately)
244 Series Tire The DOT approved 244 Series dual purpose street and trail tire was made to be equally at home on the dirt or on the pavement. ShinkoTireUSA.com
Upshift - June
4.
Kriega 3rd Generation OS-Platform New 3rd generation design - now stronger, 30% lighter and with more frame fitting options. Virtually indestructible nylon-6 platform, lighter than alloy and without fatigue issues machined with optional attachment points enabling you to set-up the bike to suit your adventure. MRRP: $89.00. Priced per single platform kriega.us • Mount a single OS-soft pannier or a single 1.75 Rotopax™ fuel or water container • Mount a OS-6 or OS-12 adventure pack with single or double 1 gallon rotopax™ fuel/water containers • Tube fit - all 16 - 20mm standard hoop pannier frames including touratech, hepco & becker, givi, ktm, rallyraid products, shift manufacturing & metal mule Features: • 10mm NYLON-6 construction • CNC machined • Includes fitting kit for 16mm - 20mm hoop frames • Universal design, fits left or right side
Motorex Cross Ester-based en performance fo
s Power 4T is a fully synthetic PAO and ngine oil, the ultimate in quality and or your peace of mind.
motorexusa.com
Wide Open
Patagonia, Chile
Photo: Suzanna Bostock
2019
Wide Open
Melba, Idaho
Photo: Simon Cudby
2019
Wide Open
Southern California
Photo: Olivier de Vaulx
2019
Wide Open
South Fork Boise River, Idaho
Photo: Simon Cudby
2019
Wide Open
Death Valley, California
Photo: Stephen W. Clark
2019
Wide Open
El ChaitĂŠn, Argentina
Photo: Tim Burke
2019
BridgestoneMotorcycleTires.com
WHAT ARE YOU
RIDING ON?
©2019 Bridgestone Americas Tire Operations, LLC. All rights reserved.
THIS 40% ON/60% OFF-ROAD TIRE IS 100% DESIGNED FOR YOUR ADVENTURE MOTORCYCLE. START THINKING ABOUT YOUR TIRES.
Wide Open
Southern Arizona BDR
Photo: Olivier de Vaulx
2019
Wide Open
Heiligenblut am GloĂ&#x;glockner, Austria
Photo: Tim Burke
2019
Wide Open
Mammoth Lakes, California
Photo: Simon Cudby
2019
BEPPEDIENA ADV
GRT709 GRAVEL-T
FOCUS ON Nylon mounting plates, work on most racks on the market
High visibility, ultrasonic sealed inner bag, M.O.L.L.E. webbing on side and bottom IP65 standard 100% water and dust proof (accessory adapters included)
www.giviusa.com
GRAVEL-T is a range of 100% waterproof soft bags, geared towards off-road and RTW use. The GRT709 Canyon soft panniers are the perfect alternative to hard side cases, as they offer 35 liter capacity each and they can be locked to their universal mounting plates. The provided mounts adapt to most side cases racks available on the market, although they work in perfect combination with the ones made by GIVI. • 100% waterproof • 35 liter capacity each • Lockable to their plates • Integrated M.O.L.L.E. system
#VStromAdventures
Explore the entire family of V-Strom motorcycles at suzukicycles.com Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki trademarks or ®. © 2019 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.
Adventure runs in
the family. Pack your bags. Go the distance. Bring back memories. The new 2019 Suzuki V-Strom 1000XT Adventure and the new V-Strom 650XT Touring. Superbly equipped for miles of adventures, these seriously capable machines feature side cases, a center stand, and a rugged accessory bar. Both are powered by an advanced, liquid-cooled 90-degree V-twin engine delivering smooth low to mid-range rpm torque and potent performance across the entire power range. Whether it’s the open road or the road less traveled, your next adventure starts with a V-Strom.
V-Strom 650XT Touring
V-Strom 1000XT adventure
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY OLIVIER DE VAULX
Adventure stories are too often featuring old dudes on heavy bikes, making the ADV world look too much like an almost-retired-male-only hobby. But why not give younger and less experienced riders the right tools to explore the world? With her father on a big Africa Twin and herself on a nimble CRF450L, a 17-year-old female rider took the opportunity to ride the southern part of Arizona Backcountry Discovery Route and proved that adventure doesn’t wait. In the last few years, the ADV community has been blessed with more resources than ever to plan end enjoy great motorcycle adventures in the USA. The work put together by BDR, a 501(c)(4) non-profit organization, is a big part of this new equation. With maps, GPS tracks, pictures, videos, and updates, their website (https://ridebdr.com) is an open and free gold mine. With so many options available, it’s hard to resist the call of the true adventure, no matter who you are. Novice ADV riders, which means people with some riding skills but less adventure experience, will need to take the weather into consideration, especially knowing that most of the routes will bring you to the high elevation of remote mountains. Even with most of the western states covered on the BDR website, you still have to pick your route carefully, as the heavy snowfall of the winter could make most of the northern routes impassable before summer time.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW THIS ROUTE ONLINE
Planning the Route It doesn’t mean that the BDRs are only dedicated to adventurers with years of experience. To make it clear, we decided to go for a spring break trip with Julie, a 17-year-old high school senior with some limited seat time this year. With her, we couldn’t take the risk of getting in trouble in snowy passes or muddy trails. The main goal is to give the youth a glimpse of a real adventure, with navigation, long days on the bike and beautiful scenery, without putting them in a risky situation or the nightmare of impassable wet trails. We also know that, with less fat on their body, the young riders would suffer quickly from the cold and wouldn’t easily endure long rides below 30 degrees. With all this in mind, we checked the website and the southern sections of Arizona Back Country Road quickly appeared to be the perfect choice for a mid-April ride. We then downloaded the GPS tracks and ordered the paper map from Butler. While elevation on the whole route is frequently above 7,000 ft, the temperature and dry conditions in the south were a green flag, at least up to the Mogollon Rim underneath Flagstaff. Knowing that our teenager had some great riding skills but not the physical endurance of her almost fifty year old father, we used the GPS tracks along with the Butler maps to cut the ride in short stages of approximately 100 miles. In order to remove the pressure of having to ride to the next city each night, we decided to camp, with the help of a chase truck driven by Julie’s mother and brother. Instead of sacrificing the holy spring break family time to pursue our passion of motorcycle riding, the trip then became a fully family-oriented adventure, with everybody on board. All guilt erased! To facilitate the coordination between the truck and the riders, we couldn’t rely solely on cell phones as the route was going through very remote places with absolutely no service. We then reached out to Midland, and they immediately provided great advice to build a communication system using GMRS radios (see full review here). A mobile MXT115 unit with an extended antenna was installed in the truck, while each rider received a GXT1000 hand-held device and a headset.
The Right Bikes The next step is to choose and prepare the bikes for the ride. With tools, water, snacks, power supply, recovery strap, extra heavy duty tubes, tire irons, and rain suit to carry with you on a remote exploration, the bags can get heavy pretty quickly and impact the balance of a light motorcycle. For the main bike, we decided to rely on the 2019 Africa Twin with an automatic DCT gearbox. We loaded this CRF1000 with Kriega bags mounted on Outback Motortek racks, added additional crash bars and skid plate from the same manufacturer, a pair of Cyclops LED, a Trail Tech Voyager Pro, a pair of Shinko E804/E805 tires, some custom Fasst Company Impact Moto Peg, and last but not least, a Yoshimura RS-4 slip-on providing a not-too-loud-racing-note at each twist of the throttle. Fully loaded, the big Honda was ready to travel the world with the father but was way too big for our skinny teenager. Wanting to stay on a very light and reliable machine without giving up too much in terms of power and speed, we opted for the Honda CRF450L as the second bike. With great suspension and a powerful yet easy to use engine, it seemed to be the perfect match for her. A pair of Mosko Moto Reckless 40L bags and a Trail Tech Voyager Pro were added to the bike, along with an IMS 3-gallon tank to replace the small original titanium part. The little Honda then received a fresh set of Dunlop D606, a comfy Seat Concepts seat and was ready to go.
II N N N O V AA TT II NN GG
AA HH EE AA DD
COMPOS IT E CCONSTRUCTION ONST RUCT ION COMPOSITE AHE AD FIT ME NT SYST EM A-HEAD FITMENT SYSTEM COLL ARBONE PROT ECT ION COLL ARBONE PROTECTION MULTI -ANGLE VIS OR RE LE AS E SYST E M MULTI-ANGLE VISOR RELEASE SYSTEM EF F ECTI VE ROTAT IONAL IMPACT ABS ORPT ION EFFECTIVE ROTATIONAL IMPACT ABSORPTION 4 SHEL L S IZES WIT H 4 DE NS IT Y E PS 4 SHELL SIZES WITH 4 DENSITY EPS ULT RA-H IGH VE NT IL AT ION ULTRA-HIGH VENTIL ATION
DISCOVER MORE AT ALPINESTARS.COM/SM8HELMET DISCOVER MORE AT ALPINESTARS.COM/SM8HELMET
All Quiet On the Mexican Border The first day of a long ride is always special. You probably had to drive long hours the day before, and you’re very likely to experience a mix of excitement, sleep deprivation, and fear of the unknown. Unloading the bikes next to the Coronado National Memorial sign, we experienced all these common feelings along with the additional anxiety of bringing someone from your own family on the adventure. But as soon as we pushed the red buttons and started the two engines, there was nothing but the urge to jump on the bikes and go. With the trail going up in the mountains, the very first minutes of the day already called for a photo stop. In front of us, an infinite sea of rolling hills stretched to the horizon. The only sign of human presence was the thin line of the Mexican border, splitting this peaceful landscape with no detour. Moving forward, the perfectly maintained fire road offered perfect curves and the ride unfolded like a dream. Using the large platform of our Fasst Company footpegs, it was easy to lean the Africa Twin inside the corners before moving your upper body forward to slide your rear tire at each exit, playing with the throttle to take advantage of the perfect traction. The CRF450L tried to keep up, looking like a supermoto on the dirt section of the track. There was no traffic whatsoever and we rode quite fast, but still on the right side of the trail when our line of sight was blocked. You definitely don’t want a head-on collision with a border patrol truck! We headed toward the border, crossing the fields of wild grass. A couple of black cows moved away from us while a few hawks saw the scene with their effortless glide. The whole ride was so smooth it felt like a video game! We slowed down and really tried to enjoy each mile. We finally reached the border, an uninterrupted line of steel girders and barbed wire in the middle of nowhere. We couldn’t help stopping, caught by the singularity of this place: experiencing such freedom of movement with our motorcycles while riding near a border where so many stories come to an end, makes you really appreciate things with a different and deeper perspective. After a couple of pictures, the ride finally resumed. The wind drew ripples in the tall grass and the growling roar of the Yoshimura exhaust sounded like a symphony to our ears. When we met the truck near Benson and removed our helmets, our faces showed nothing but a wide smile. The second day started on more dusty fire roads and seemed to lack the magic of the first section, but the view of the first giant cactus quickly cheered us up. Incredibly tall, their silhouettes were impressive figures that stimulated our imagination. We were back in one of these western movies of our childhood, the bikes being our mustangs! No wonder why we stopped at the first corral and fed the beautiful horses with fresh grass, patting their silky necks with our motocross gloves.
Next the GPS track brought us to Mammoth, where we met the truck, thanks to the long range of our radios. After filling the tanks of the two Hondas, we enjoyed a friendly welcome in the Mexican shop and restaurant near the gas station. We showed them our map where their fresh food was mentioned and they couldn’t believe it! Seated in the small cantina with a cold drink and a big plate of tasty Mexican burritos, it was almost nap time. The afternoon brought us to more technical trails, with some small rocks and even a bit of sand along the railway. The cactuses were still surrounding us, like vultures waiting for us to give up in the heat. Fortunately, the vents of our Alpinestars SM10 helmets brought a fresh flow of air and prevented us from overheating. Still, when we finally decided to call it a day and stop, the first thing we looked for was the shade of a tree! Once again using the radios, we gave direction to the truck and prepared for the second night of camping.
Graded Pioneer Pass The third day was supposed to bring us to the infamous Pioneer Pass. Everything we heard about this trail was pretty scary. From other travelers showing us videos of people riding on the edge of a vertical cliff to pics of washed out trails full of rocks, we felt like going there was looking for trouble. As a responsible father, I really thought about skipping this section, but the ADV community is reactive and eager to help, with forums updated in almost real time. Connecting our phones on ADV Rider, we then learned that Pioneer Pass had just been graded the day before! It was great news to hear just before going to sleep. Waking up with the sunrise at 6am, we zipped up our Alpinestars Venture jackets to fight the cold temperature and quickly started the ride. As the trail climbed in the mountains, it narrowed and got more rocky. The Africa Twin relied on the comfort of its suspension and its monstrous torque to compete with the nimble 450L. However, the small bike had an edge on this bumpy and technical section and easily overtook the big twin. Our young rider couldn’t help but show off, using the radio to tease her dad. The bulldozers were still on the trail and the end of the ride was completed on a perfectly graded fire-road, and under the shade of tall pine trees. It looked like a totally different place altogether. How did the ambiance change so fast? Stopping for gas and food at Globe, we acknowledged that we learned a valuable lesson today: the worst is never certain and one should never give up before at least giving it a try! If we had only listened to people giving bad news, we would never have even tried Pioneer Pass and we would have missed a really nice ride.
Lucky Gamble to Young Feeling confident since we went through this last section with ease, we studied our plans for the rest of the trip. There were two options to reach the small village of Young: one on pavement and one on what was supposedly the most technical section of the whole ride. Being prudent, we checked the weather. According to our phones, it said that we would get a ton of rain, which meant a miserable day if the trails were technical. We luckily remembered that our radios had an NOAA function and switched them on the weather channel. The operator gave a very different forecast, with the rain only to be expected in the late afternoon. That was good news and literally a game changer! Julie decided to try the expert track to Young, with the option to turn back if things got wild. The journey to Young starts in a canyon, with the cactus standing out in the immaculate blue sky. While the fire road takes some elevation, we discovered the San Carlos Reservoir on the horizon. The mix of water in the background and desert rocks around us made these first few miles unforgettable. We enjoyed the scenery so much that we didn’t really pay attention to the GPS. We crossed a deep river and finally stopped to look at the map, wondering if we should pursue this nice but unproven trail or go back to the exact track on our GPS. A true cowboy on his gigantic horse then appeared like a good samaritan and made a detour to meet us. Sharing stories about the mountain lions he hunts in the surrounding canyons, he strongly encouraged us to follow the original route. We cheerfully thanked this authentic clone of Clint Eastwood and got back on the route, paying more attention to our navigation devices. Quickly, things got tricky, with miles and miles of rolling rocks. In these conditions, while you need to ride carefully on the Africa Twin to avoid pinching the front tube, the light CRF450L just flew over the obstacles. The perfect suspension of the Honda was confidence-inspiring and Julie just blasted through the rocks and the ruts. I really had to give it my all to follow her while riding the big twin, but it also made the ride super fun. There was no high speed and therefore no real danger, just constant line changes and improvisations. To be fair, the DCT is a big help here, since you don’t have to shift or to use the clutch! This automatic gearbox lets you focus on the best lines without having to be scared about stalling in between two big rocks. It almost makes you a better rider! Not having to worry about the clutch at all times on these technical trails was a blessing and definitely the best option ever to avoid arm pump; yet after a while, the shoulder muscles started to burn and the climb felt like a real work out. The trail finally eased with the elevation and the dirt became smoother, with a bit of silk to cover it. The end of the ride to Young was just an easy cruise through beautiful landscapes under the pine trees and we stopped at the local store with a big smile. A kid with a cowboy hat driving a huge tractor waved at us when we reached the pavement to meet the truck a few miles away.
ADVENTURE BEGINS HERE
The Off-Road Rider’s GPS Connect Up To 20 Riders With Our New Buddy Tracking Technology
Road Closure Up North While riding on the road might seem like a burden, we nevertheless encountered probably the best scenery of the ride: A black canyon opened to a large open landscape, and with the golden light of the sunset, the scene was amazingly captivating. Since we had no plans to try skydiving from the edge of the cliff, it was time to find a camping spot for the night and to check the map. Having ridden faster than expected so far, we decided to give a try to the Mogollon Rim the next day. It was a bit more pavement but why not try? Despite having no vibrations and a very comfortable seat, the CRF450L can’t really compete with the Africa Twin on the road. In order to avoid excessive fatigue we ended up switching bikes, the youngest rider enjoying the protection offered by the big bike’s fairing. Unfortunately, the whole area around the Mogollon Rim was closed due to the snowfall and the very bad condition of the trails. It was a bummer, but it also proved that our initial plan of staying on the south side of the state was a wise one. Besides, it gave us another reason to come back and finish the ride later in the year. A Perfect Match The end of the adventure, with the four of us talking in the pickup truck loaded with two bikes in the back, was just a long drive home on the highway. But it was also the time to share memories and to discuss this epic adventure. First of all, we all agreed that mixing two bikes as different as the CRF450L and the Africa Twin allowed for a better balance of skills. While the most experienced riders will more likely be wise enough to wait for the novices on the easy stretches of the ride, they will lose their advantage on the technical sections, allowing the youngest to keep pace easily. Obviously, even if our teenager enjoyed the twin on the road and some graded fire roads, it would have been way too risky to put her on such a big bike for the whole trip. On the other hand, the enduro DNA of the CRF450L made it less comfortable but also lighter, inspiring more confidence to our female rider who knew she could pick it up in case of a crash. Despite the smaller tank, the 450 was sipping gas, making the twin look thirsty in comparison, and allowing a range of 120+ miles on the 450 versus 160 with the big bike. It was still more than enough for most sections of the BDRs and we never had to worry about it. Communication with the radios was key, as it allowed the first rider to warn the following one when crossing a vehicle or some cattle. It also removed a ton of stress when waiting for the truck or for the second rider. Last, but definitely not least, sharing the adventure with the non-riding members of the family was a great bonding experience. Setting up the tent, sharing food around a bonfire and contemplating the stars with your loved ones gives a lot of strength to tackle the next day of riding. At the end of the trip, if there’s only one thing we should remember, it is that today, the true adventure is just one drivers license away for any teenager. No need to have gray hair to enjoy the ride, just call the DMV and book your appointment, the BDRs are waiting for you!
Special thanks to Jason Abbott, at Honda USA, for the loan of the Africa Twin and the CRF450L. Thanks to Lory Gombos, founder of Outback Motortek, for his help protecting our brand new CRF1000 with racks, crash bars, and skid plate. Big thumb up to Kriega for the bags on the Africa Twin, and to Mosko Moto for the easy-to-install Reckless of the CRF450L. Thanks also to Cyclops Adventure Sports for the great lights: almost wish we finished later every day! Andrew Kinsman at Midland helped us big time to build a great communication system using the GMRS radios. Thanks to the guys at IMS for the 3-gallon tank for the CRF450L and to Fasst Company for the custom Impact Moto Peg of the Africa Twin. High five to Trail Tech who provided their powerful Voyager Pro, and also to Dunlop for the D606 installed on the CRF450L and Shinko for the E804/E805 of the Africa Twin. Special thanks to Ashley Jung who took care of our young rider at the very last minute with a full set of Alpinestars gear! Finally, thanks to Inna Thorn and Rob Watt from BDR for their priceless advice concerning the ride itself.
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PART ONE
Words and Photos by Ashley Myhre
Years ago I decided Ethiopia was one of the most intriguing places on Earth; I hadn’t yet been, but I was absolutely sure. Independent travel in Ethiopia is no small task, but a motorbike makes it possible. Luckily, that’s our favorite way to travel. After spending a month riding through the remotest corners in the ‘land of origins’ and Africa’s oldest independent country, I was leaving with two new tattoos in Amharic (their native language). For the record, of all my international travel, I’ve never left with a tattoo. This wondrous country had quite literally left its mark on me. You know, it’s hard to say where a trip like this begins and ends. I think it started long before I ever got on the plane or threw my leg over the bike. It began when that very first seed was planted and it continues long afterward, because a trip like this changes you, or at least it did me. I saw more than I can tell and I understood more than I saw, if you know what I mean.
“FARANJI FARANJI FARANJI!” “YOU YOU YOU!” “Where are you go?” “Are you fine?” Ahh, there it was: The Faranji (foreigner) frenzy I’d read about. I heard this in various forms over and over and over, hundreds of times as we entered the city streets early that first morning, and really, throughout the entire trip. Friendly? Maybe, I was still deciding. Annoying? Not yet. Curious? Definitely. The shouting and intensity seemed disconcerting at first, but I knew from past experience that these feelings would pass and I’d settle into this new form of greeting, and OMG the staring! I had forgotten about the sizzle of having every set of eyeballs on a city street pointed your way; but again, I knew my discomfort would pass. Their excitement was palpable, and my shyness was fading by the second. I could feel myself settling into what would become my reality for the next four weeks.
We had arrived in Addis Ababa just the night before, with only a couple hours before catching a flight south to Awassa where we would meet our soon to be friends, Babe and Fistum. A bit of bumbling around the city and a few coffees later, we were back into the madness that is Addis Ababa airport. During the flight, all I thought was, WOW. The aerial views of various lakes, craters and mountains had us itching to get moving and start exploring. With two paper maps in tow and a host of Gaia maps downloaded, we could roam wherever we pleased. Just two weeks prior, we sat down for my very first Ethiopian meal in Portland with our new buddy Chad, a friend of a friend who’s from Ethiopia and has family there. Score. We don’t do much planning before a trip like this, but having a local contact in the country you’re planning to visit is clutch. Between Pete and I, we have done dozens of these ‘drop in’ international moto trips, so we are comfortable buying a plane ticket, showing up with cash in hand and sorting out the bike entirely upon arrival – this usually takes a day or so to accomplish. In this case, we were fortunate enough to have Chad’s brother Babe locate and purchase two 200cc ‘BMP’ brand dual sport bikes just before we landed in Awassa. It was a dream; we couldn’t believe how things just fell into place. They were $3,400 each including VAT, registration, and everything else we needed to ride them. This is about double what it would typically cost us for the same bike in a different country. Ethiopia has a 50100% import duty on all vehicles which deterred us for 2 years, but at a certain point, the allure of this country pushed us beyond the obstacles, and we said, “F*** it.”
Ethiopia is riddled with barriers to entry and challenges you’ll face while riding there. I say that while simultaneously acknowledging it as the friendliest, most stimulating, awe-inspiring place I’ve ever visited. Throughout the trip, I experienced this powerful integration of head and heart juxtaposed with nature. Ethiopia is home to a whopping 9 UNESCO world heritage sights, and while cultural places aren’t of huge interest to me, it’s still good to acknowledge the fascinating history, deep-rooted identity and wonders of this country. Popular culture tells westerners that Africa, especially East Africa, is a land full of conflict and famine where progress is rare, and corruption is rife. There is so much more to Africa: the continent hosts an array of cultures, ambitions, languages, dreams, and futures. It is one thing to intellectualize or imagine, but another thing entirely to experience the hundreds of ways to dress, eat, and live on this planet. This is what I love most about travel: assimilating, observing, and enjoying the contrast. People are endlessly fascinating. What motivates them? What are their intentions? We spend much of our lives so chronically self-absorbed, but when you’re in a country where you don’t speak the language, you are left with this great desire to connect. Effortlessly, we come out of our egocentric way of looking at the world. We begin understanding each other without words, our general faith in humanity grows tenfold and in turn facilitates developing a visceral empathy toward others.
I’ve never quite experienced this phenomenon the way I did in Ethiopia, namely in the South Omo Valley. On our way south, I had a close call with a truck coming up a steep, blind, silty switchback. A tuck and back-roll dismount safely sealed that experience – but more noteworthy was the kindness and concern of the driver. A quick dust off and we made it up the hill for a short visit with the Dorze people, this was our first tribal experience of the trip, still a ways north of the South Omo. We learned about subsistence farming, took a look at their local school, and found out that the Dorze eat meat only twice a year! Say whaaat? How can it be? The Hotelier Tsehai, who we met at the Dorze Lodge, had family in the Hamer tribe of the South Omo – he suggested we visit them and camp in their village. Obviously, an opportunity we could not pass up.
All it takes is a quick Google search of the South Omo to uncover the array of controversy over visiting some of Africa’s most traditional tribes. The tribes are living in incredibly harsh conditions, as they have for thousands of years. They are adorned with various body modifications and native garments, and most of the men with Kalashnikovs casually slung over their shoulder. You see, in the South Omo, the focal point of tourism is an attempt to cross the cultural chasm and interact with, (or at least photograph) rural cultures more distant from our own than imaginable. Motorcycle travel into the countryside subjects us to the unique challenges of the government, environment, and economy, all of which was on full display here.
I couldn’t believe where I was, or what I was doing as I lay in our Marmot tent inside the protected village walls. Cows and goats roamed freely, naked children ran and screamed while the adults sat on cowhide outside the huts chattering away and clustered together. It was quite the scene in the village as the sun rose that morning, again I couldn’t believe my eyes. I don’t think I’ve ever felt more connected to the greater schema of how nature is designed, or been faced with heavier moral contemplations. The tribes-people likely see very little of the money moving through the area, that is quite obvious and undisputed. Photos are the currency and the tribes-people are aware. Misunderstandings and tensions crop up quickly between the locals and tourists (usually over finances), contributing towards a sometimes unpleasant, rather grasping environment. Local guides can help with this aspect, but honestly, their role is quite ambiguous as well. We were so lucky to have Tsehai as our connection to the tribe, and he actually spent the second night out there with us amongst the tribe. This aided in a much more relaxed experience for all involved.
I will never forget laying under the stars that last night with the Hamer people. With children piled all around and on top of me, all we had was the moonlight, and I couldn’t help but notice the pungent smell of clay as they lay close. Some were holding my hands and cuddled up in my arms as their elders sang songs of battle, strength, and community. We passed around a bowl made from a giant dried gourd, filled with couscous and another with local sorghum beer. With little to no light pollution, the stars that painted the sky are emblazoned in my memory forever. For a moment, we were all the same. It didn’t matter how different our lives had been, only that we were human and sharing a moment in time. Any stay in the South Omo is a first-hand look into the resilience, abject poverty, strength, resourcefulness, and pride of the people there. They are warriors at heart and mind, and their culture, while ancient, is well preserved. I feel lucky to have seen a glimpse of the world as they know it. As westerners, there is an immediate inclination to dismiss or reject parts of the culture like ritual beatings, or Mingi – the disposal/rejection of children born with physical abnormalities. We want to experience the authentic tribal culture, traipse in toting our expensive cameras, quickly shove them in the faces of locals and leave blurting how they should change their culture as we spritz ourselves clean with sanitizer. Totally unacceptable behavior on our part. I can hardly believe they allow 4x4’s to just roll in for an hour or two and then take off, hardly seems a pleasant experience for anyone involved. Moreover, I don’t know the solution, no one does, but as wild things in the bush do, it will sort itself out. I’m quite sure this current ‘wild west’ way of the Omo will change, who knows what it will become. When cultures intersect, both sides change. Those visiting the tribes come away with greater understanding, more empathy, and a unique perspective seldom gained in the developed world. The tribes themselves are exposed to knowledge, information, and technology they simply don’t have access to without visitors dropping in. So trying to make judgments like ‘good’ or ‘bad’ is not only near impossible but totally unnecessary. This is the evolution in process, good or bad makes no difference. It gets my heart thumping just reminiscing and writing about it – such a profound, powerful experience. If you ever have the chance to visit the South Omo, do. Oh, and say hi to our friends in the Algo House of the Hamer tribe for me. Check out the rest of Ashley and Pete’s journey through Ethiopia in the next issue.
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HEALTH
BY SEIJI ISHII
Fitness for the Adventure-Oriented Weekend Warrior Get The Most Out of Limited Training Time Most readers of Upshift Online have family and job responsibilities that monopolize their time. However, weekend adventures demand fitness for performance and injury prevention. Many may only have an hour before or after work, at most a few times a week, to prepare the body for the rigors of off-road riding or unplanned and abrupt meetings with terra firma. The busy weekend warrior must be efficient with time and effort. The Elements of Fitness The number of training techniques and the arguments for or against them are confusing, but it can all be simplified. The three elements to physical fitness are: cardiovascular fitness, strength, and flexibility. There is also a mental component, but that’s for another article entirely. Cardiovascular training aims to increase the efficiency and capacity of transporting oxygen to working muscles and removing waste products. This training includes the selective use of fuels; muscles run on a mixture of fats and carbohydrates. This mixture affects the relative amount of work done per calorie and the rate that this work can be applied. Training molds all of this through control of the intensity and duration of the cardiovascular activity. Improved cardiovascular fitness raises overall metabolism, making weight management easier and accelerating tissue healing and muscle recovery. Strength training functions to increase the ability to apply and resist force. Developing pure strength means moving weight, but power is also important. How quickly one can apply or resist force has huge implications upon riding performance and injury resistance. Power generation involves neuromuscular training and muscle building in equal amounts. Muscles are also the only energy absorbing tissues in the body. Flexibility is what it sounds like, but it includes more than muscle length. Connective tissues are also involved, as are neuromuscular components. These all combine to allow greater range of motion and more efficient movement, translating to more cardiovascular efficiency as well as greater strength and power. Increased range of motion means a part of our body can be forced to move further without structural damage. Efficient Training Tactics The biggest challenge is creating a program that covers the three cornerstones of physical fitness in the correct intensities, durations, and frequencies, in a time efficient manner with consistency. Yeah, that’s a lot to ask of someone who just punched the clock for eight hours, but it is possible and can even prove to be enjoyable.
HEALTH: Fitness for the Adventure-Oriented Weekend Warrior Simple logic dictates that there should be no “resting� periods within a workout; time is both fleeting and limited. Utilizing smart programming can give recently used structures and fuel systems a break, while addressing all areas of physical fitness in the limited time frame. These tasks can be accomplished using circuit training; this is an old term that the fitness industry has recently re-branded. CrossFit and other popular workout programs are circuit training in essence. Circuit training involves exercises done backto-back in a large circuit without stopping as opposed to doing the same exercise with rests in between. Smart planning involves cardiovascular activities, functional strength, mobility, and quick transitions to address all components of physical fitness in the least amount of time.
Sample Programming Although programs should be tailored to attack personal cardiovascular, strength, and mobility limiters, an efficient and effective general plan should: 1. Stress a wide range of aerobic to anaerobic fuel systems via differing cardiovascular intensities and durations. 2. Stress both strength and power through multi-joint, closed chain (feet or hands grounded) in body positions that require active postural integration and core activation. 3. Stress functional and full range of motion. 4. Avoid injury. These parameters mean creating exercise stations that involve: 1. Both longer/lower intensity and shorter/higher intensity cardiovascular exercise. 2. Moving weight over the largest vertical distance possible, both at high load/low speed and at low load/high speed, with feet or hands grounded or working against the load, and involving movements that incorporate multiple joints and core/postural integration. 3. Use of full range of motion and mobility drills. 4. Always using proper form, stressing correct movement more than load or speed.
An Example Session: Warm up: 400 meter jog, 20 body weight full-range squats, ten full-range push-ups, five pull-ups, one minute of mobility drills or stretches on known problem structures. Repeat twice (about 10 minutes). Training Circuit: 400m jog in aerobic intensity zones (cardiovascular, 4-6 RPE, rating of perceived exertion on a 1-10 scale) Kettle bell Goblet Squat (strength; rep schemes/loads dependent on goal and structural readiness) Lateral speed and agility drill done at high speed for one minute (high intensity cardiovascular + lateral mobility and neuromuscular skill) Pull-ups (strength) Box jumps (power and high intensity aerobic) Lunges (strength) Kettle bell Swings (metabolic + power) Push-ups (strength) Circuit is repeated 4-5 times, with as little rest as possible to keep the metabolic load as consistent as possible for the duration. If you are unfamiliar with these specific workouts go to www.crossfit.com/essentials for examples Cool-down: Ten minutes of mobility or stretching working on known limiters.
HEALTH: Fitness for the Adventure-Oriented Weekend Warrior Twice A Week Is A Good Frequency Goal For Most. If this looks like CrossFit programming, you are correct, but with one huge difference: the exercises, unless specified as sprints or high speed, are not done under time constraint. CrossFit places complex and heavily loaded exercises under time stress, which primarily strains anaerobic metabolism and can create situations where form breaks down, greatly increasing injury rates. The programming example stresses more aerobic, primarily fat fueled metabolism and emphasizes form over speed of movement. Quick, power-oriented movements exist, but they involve less load (box jumps and agility drills) to improve safety. Get Creative! Variety improves motivation and enjoyment but also ensures that all structures, movement ranges, skills, and fuel systems receive attention. General Rules For Programming: 1. Move the stress around – avoid focusing on the same body part, movement pattern, or fuel system in back-to-back exercises. 2. Move in all planes – most two-wheeled athletes (and modern humans) only move in one plane (the forward to back sagittal plane). Incorporate movements in other planes to improve mobility and athleticism. 3. Err on the side of caution – an injury deletes it all! Now it’s time to get started! For most people not engaged in an exercise program, getting started is worlds harder than the actual training. Take that first step to improve performance, safety, and most importantly, enjoyment of your treasured weekend adventures.
Coach Seiji earned a degree in kinesiology and has been training elite outdoor athletes since 1995. He has been training professional motorsports athletes since 2005.
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TESTED
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MIDLAND TWO-WAY RADIOS Stay Tuned! When it comes to communication between riders, using sign language might be useful but very limited, especially when the people you want to talk to are miles apart. Luckily, our modern age of technology offers many electronic solutions to share information between members of the same group. Existing Technologies When riding in very remote areas, your expensive smartphone is more likely to be useless, unable to reach the next cell tower 50 miles from where you are riding. The best option for this device is to let it rest in airplane mode in your pocket and save its battery to check emails at the gas station. The next logical solution would be the use of satellite phones. They have expensive subscription plans but they can reach anybody, anywhere in the world, as long as they’re outside. It seems like a perfect solution for those with a deep wallet, but it has some significant limitations: each time you want to talk, you need to stop, use the keypad to bring up a phone number, wait for the ring, and hope that the other guy will pick up. Then, you need to do the same process again for each member of the group. So if it works great to coordinate with the crew at the base camp, it’s far from ideal to make plans on the go between riders. The GMRS Alternative Here come the GMRS radios, also known as two-way radios. They are offered in the form of handheld devices that you can carry with you or in bigger mobile units that you can install in a truck. In both cases, you can reach everybody listening on a specific channel, and even add a privacy code to prevent your conversations from being public. With the radios being in standby, ready to receive any input, you can reach all members of your crew at the same time with just the push of a button. Obviously, the range is not quite as impressive as satellite phones, but if you’re riding together, you’re most likely to be just miles apart. Regulations These GMRS radios are way more powerful than the walkie-talkie you used as a toy, and as such, are submitted to some regulations in the USA. In order to legally operate a GMRS radio, you need to apply for a license on the FCC website (https://apps.fcc.gov/coresWeb/publicHome.do). The cost is $70 for 10 years and extends to a whole family, making it fairly inexpensive. Once you get your license, you receive a call sign that you will use if you talk on a public channel. Without the license, you can still enjoy your radio but will need to use it on some family channels, with ten times less power and a very limited range. Range and Performances Once you have your call sign, you’ll enjoy the very long range of the GMRS and additional features like privacy codes. For this test, we used the powerful GXT1000VP4 handheld device from Midland. They come with rechargeable batteries and a maximum range of 36 miles. During our ride in Arizona, we could reach the chase truck easily, even with mountains in the way, like in Pioneer Pass where we talked on both sides of the pass. In the vast plains near the Mexican border, we could talk to the truck crew who was waiting for us at the gas station in Sonoita, 12 miles away. In both cases, there was absolutely no line of sight. Between the bikes, you can always reach your partner, even with trees and corners between you both. Even in town, we could communicate while being 2 miles apart with plenty of buildings around and obviously no line of sight.
Headset and Wires The radios, like the phones, can be held in hand, but it means you have to stop each time you want to send a message. A call function can make the radios ring, which can be an alert for the other riders who know they have to stop to receive the message. It works, but we definitely didn’t find it convenient and tried to go with headsets instead. We tried two different kits available on the Midland website. The AVPH3 consist of a long wire connecting the main unit with a unique earplug and a small microphone, which is pinned to your collar. It’s the one used by security agents all over the world and it will fit no matter the helmet you use. With the push talk button being located on the tiny microphone, you can’t use it from inside the helmet. From its location on the collar, the microphone takes a lot of wind while riding and we quickly found that conversations would be difficult at speed. Adding some foam around it would have improved the sound quality, but we didn’t have any during our ride. We then tried the AVPH2, specially designed for use in motorcycles helmets. It comes with two wires: one toward the microphone and the two foam covered ear speakers, and one toward the remote talk button. While plugging and unplugging the wires can be annoying if you stop frequently for pictures, the sound quality is incredibly good, even at high speed. It comes with a downside though, as the speakers won’t fit all helmets. They were too big for our Alpinestars SM10 but fit perfectly in a street-oriented Bell RS-2. For those who ride long hours and don’t stop too many times during the day to snap pictures, it’s the way to go! Battery Life
TESTED: MIDLAND TWO-WAY RADIOS We used these radios extensively, even when we stopped just a few feet apart. We found that it was easier to talk with a normal voice through a microphone than to yell at everybody around to cover the noise of the exhausts! Unfortunately, the battery of the powerful GXT1000VP4 barely made it through the day, and we had to plug the radios into the charger each night. We then discovered that the charger doesn’t accept the batteries alone, which means you can’t charge and use the GXT1000VP4 at the same time. We used a spare set of batteries and we knew that we could stop at a gas station and still buy 4 AA batteries if we didn’t have the opportunity to plug into the charger during the night. For those who ride long days and camp, the best option would be to select the slightly less powerful X-Talker T71VP3, which comes with longer battery life and a USB port to charge the device on the go. Set Up the Midland GMRS: Setting up our radios was a no brainer. While the manual might seem intimidating at first, you just need to select one of the 15 GMRS channels, which is any number from 1 to 7 and 16 to 22 - channels 8 to 15 being the low power family channels. Once you select the channel, you can assign it a privacy code. It allows you to speak freely on a channel with very little risk of being spied on or preventing other users from communicating as it gives 3,124 options! All your friends using the radio with the same channel and privacy code will receive your messages at the same time. It’s possible to go further with group calls settings, but it doesn’t seem to be really useful for a motorcycle ride. The settings are the same on the X-Talker T71VP3, GXT1000VP4 and on the MXT115 Micromobile that we used on the truck. This bigger and more powerful mobile unit comes with a small magnetic antenna that we replaced with the optional MXTA116db antenna. We put it in the magnetic base on the roof of our F-150 pickup truck and the range and sound quality were just amazing. In case of an emergency, it’s possible to scan all the channels in auto-scan mode, and it’s very likely that you’ll find an active conversation where you can call for help. Be aware that in remote areas and in case of life or death situations, you’ll still be better using a Spot satellite device.
TESTED: MIDLAND TWO-WAY RADIOS NOAA Weather Channel The last feature we really appreciated was the opportunity to listen to local weather channels. In Arizona, while camping in the wild with no service on our phones, the radios provided us with super accurate forecast information which helped us plan for the next days. It was our only source of information and definitely a very important safety feature. Conclusion We felt like the Midland GMRS radios made for a richer experience during the ride. Communicating while riding helped us keep a warm and friendly atmosphere in the group. It eases the tensions and the stress when you have to wait for others at a crossroad, and makes coordination between the bikes and the chase truck a piece of cake. Safety wise, we also used the radios extensively to provide watch out warnings regarding oncoming cars and cattle. From now on, we wouldn’t go for a long journey without these “magic” devices! midlandusa.com
SPECIFICATIONS: GXT1000VP4
Range: Up to 36 miles
MXT115 MICROMOBILE MSRP: $149.99 Power: 12v Range: Up to 50 miles Channels: 15 GMRS, 7 family Antenna: Included (magnetic base) Max Gain 6db Antenna: Optional NOAA Weather Channel: Yes License: FCC
Power Levels: 3
Support: Included
MSRP: $89.99 for a pair of radios Battery: Rechargeable, included Charge time from empty: 12h Battery Compatibility: 4 x AA Charge: 110v Charger included USB Charge: No
Channels: 15 GMRS, 7 family Privacy Codes: 142
Recommended by Midland for better battery life and USB charge:
NOAA Weather Channel: Yes
X-TALKER T71VP3 MSRP: $79.99 for a pair of radios Battery: Rechargeable, included Charge time from empty: 3-4h Battery Life: 15 hours Battery Compatibility: 3xAA Charge: 110v Charger included USB Charge: Yes Range: 38 miles Power Levels: 2 Channels: 15 GMRS, 7 family NOAA Weather Channel: Yes Vibration: Yes Keystroke Tone: Yes Headset: Included Holster: Optional License: FCC
Vibration: Yes Keystroke Tone: Yes Headset: Included Holster: Optional License: FCC
YOUR ADVENTURE - OUR PASSION
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Patagonia
Photos and Words by Suzanna Bostock
Patagonia! It had been on my list of places I wanted to visit since my teens after I’d watched whitewater kayaking videos about the region. However, being there on a motorbike was even better! Patagonia spans across the southern area of both Chile and Argentina separated only by the majestic Andes mountain range. Fortunately the border crossings between the two countries were quite swift and straightforward, which made life so much easier. Our Patagonian adventure started just north of Lago Aluminé in the Neuquén Province of Argentina. It was New Years Eve and we didn’t know where we were going to end up. However, as we pulled over at a little gas station we bumped into a couple who owned a vineyard in Mendoza. They were keen to give us some tips and told us about the local area, plus they gave us a cold bottle of their white wine! Amazing! Although the route west towards the lake was paved, it was stunning. The lush green trees, log cabins and bright blue sky ensured a picturesque backdrop. Many local Argentinians had set up camp along the banks of the crystal clear river which flowed for miles and miles through the valleys, all getting their Asados (BBQs) ready for the night’s festivities. We came across a small, quiet campsite on the shore of the lake and made it our home for a couple of nights. The wood-fired hot water was ready for showering after 7pm and an old bicycle wheel made for a good makeshift BBQ grill. It was a great start to an adventurous new year! When we set off again, instead of taking the easy option and heading to the Ruta 40 south, we opted to take the dirt road around the lake. It was all ‘ripio’ however quite beautiful and we passed another couple of deep blue Andean lakes on route, before heading south towards Junin de Los Andes. We needed to find a welder as my side-stand was starting to crack. However, after asking a few locals we sorted it no problem. We took the opportunity to visit Huechulafquen Lake to the west, which was especially beautiful with Volcan Lanín in the background and virtually no one else in sight.
Continuing south we passed the super touristy town of Bariloche, which was picturesque sitting on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi, with snow capped mountains all sitting mightily in the background. It was quite beautiful however, we wanted to get away from the hordes, so we continued further into a small village called Rio Villegas. We found a tiny campsite with a little dirt track we could use to get the bikes down, and there wasn’t anyone else around. Some locals told us about a great river walk so we spent the next day having an on-foot adventure, but it was well worth it with the undulating forest path, crystal clear rivers and priceless tranquility. After that though it was back on the bikes and off towards Los Alerces National Park. The plan had been to camp, but the notoriously rainy Patagonian weather swept in with force so we took refuge in a small hostel and managed to nab the last two remaining beds.
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We sat out the bleak weather for two days and met a fellow rider, Simon from Australia. He was keen to join us in the National Park, so once the rain stopped we all headed off. It was about $8 each to enter but well worth it because of the free camping and stunning views. We had seen several beautiful lakes heading south but they were all different and the ones we came across in the park did not disappoint. The mountains were so much closer, just on the edge of the lakes, and the water was clear and with a bright blue tinge closer to shore. Lago Verde and Lago Futalaufquen were particularly impressive, and we had great fun on the dirt roads which passed close by the lakes. After a couple of days camping lakeside and taking in the surroundings, we headed off again, but this time we were Chile-bound. We passed through the town of Trevelin with its Welsh Colonists, and after bumping into a Welsh teacher at the gas station he took us on a tour, which was fantastic. It was then off across the border to get on the famous Carretera Austral and it was dirt for a good 160km, which made us happy. The dirt road spat us out onto the paved Carretera Austral at Villa Santa Lucia, a small town with a sad history. In December 2017, a huge landslide wiped out much of the town, including 28 homes and killed 21 people. Much of the destruction was still shockingly visible. Heading south we came upon a huge miners protest. They’d felled huge trees across the roads in order to block traffic, however for us it was a blessing in disguise. We ended up on a magnificent single lane dirt road out into the countryside around to Coyhaique. It wasn’t fun for all; we ended up helping a lovely guy from Brazil with his bike a couple of times as he wasn’t used to the dirt and was two-up on a heavy bike, but we all made it safely.
The next great ride was yet another diversion I’d planned. Before Laguna Verde we hopped off onto the X-723 and then the X-725, which far exceeded our expectations. We met no other vehicles and as the road took us up and up, we got an impressive elevated view of the stunning Laguna Verde and also Lago Alto, which you wouldn’t normally get from the Carretera Austral. The road wound around the countryside and provided us with many opportunities to take photos and just enjoy our surroundings before heading off to Rio Tranquilo, where we took a boat trip with some good friends to see the famous marble caves. At this point we decided we’d head back to Argentina to continue our trip southward. We took the road across to Paso Roballos, which made us feel like we were in Scotland or somewhere similar, and we spent the night wild camping riverside with a small hedge for shelter. Crossing the border we met a couple of French travelers on Ural sidecars and exchanged a few stories while we waited. Sadly the dirt road was coming to an end and it wasn’t long before we hit the notoriously windy Southern Ruta 40. To be honest, the next few days was not the most exciting for us. We were met with strong winds and rain further south with long, straight, boring asphalt roads. However, we were fortunate that when we reached El Calafate, the weather was perfect and we were invited to stay with a lovely local biker couple Eduardo and Rosanna. We visited the huge Perito Moreno glacier, which was truly immense and the sounds of the ice cracking were just something else. Given the huge rain forecast, we decided to skip El Chaltén and Torres Del Paine, the ‘must-see’ spots on the way down, and instead headed cross-country to Rio Gallegos, and then took the ripio roads to the Cabo Vírgenes National Reserve, where there was a huge penguin colony. This was the first time we didn’t enjoy the dirt so much. With the strong crosswinds and gravel, in many sections we felt like the bike was sliding sideways, and with the forceful gusts it was hard to stay in a straight line. Seeing the hundreds of Magellanic penguins up close was worth it though and there was even a wild camp spot close by where we were greeted in the morning by an inquisitive armadillo.
Following that we took a short ferry ride across to Tierra Del Fuego, however, the most exciting thing for us was Ruta J, southeast of Ushuaia. We were unbelievably fortunate that two days of uncharacteristically awesome weather was forecast so we took the opportunity to escape Ushuaia and explore off the beaten track. We found the most amazing wild camp spot we’d ever had. It took a lot of effort to get there but we persevered through the trees, shrubbery and down a damp grassy hill. We could hear whales in the Beagle Channel and the next afternoon the water was totally calm. I was lucky to see a whale beaching next to a nearby island, and there were countless herds of seals making their way back and forth, some basking in the glorious sunshine. One even came for a rest on a nearby rock and later I saw two little foxes playing around by the shore. It was one of the most beautiful and tranquil places I’d ever been, but more was to come. That evening, after I cooked Kelvin a tasty camp curry he asked me to close my eyes. I could feel him move and the next thing I knew he was on one knee and asking me to marry him with a ring he’d whittled out of wood. I couldn’t stop giggling as it was completely unexpected, but I managed to say “yes.” I guess if you spend two years on the road together without killing each other that has to be a good sign!
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