Upshift Issue 38 - October 2019

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Issue 38

October 2019




POWER TO THE TOP KTM 300 XC-W TPI KTM Factory riders are continually shifting the boundaries of possibility. Their demands have resulted in a new generation of complete high-performance offroad machines that offer outstanding handling and agility, improved ease of use and efďŹ cient power delivery across the whole rev range. The new KTM 300 XC-W TPI is a race-reďŹ ned machine of the highest caliber, built to conquer every challenge in your journey to the top.


KTM Group Partner

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations. The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production model and feature optional equipment available at additional cost. European specification model shown for illustration purposes only.

Photo: R. Schedl

www.kiska.com


Adventure Adventure lies lies ahead. ahead.

FALL 2019 FALL 2019 @RideDunlop DunlopMotorcycleTires.com. ©2019 Dunlop Motorcycle Tires. @RideDunlop DunlopMotorcycleTires.com. ©2019 Dunlop Motorcycle Tires.


Issue 38 OCTOBER 2019

ry information: These drawings contain information ry to Upshift. Any reproduction, or transmittal of this on without expressed written consent is prohibited by se partial or complete of the sordCover marks is prohibited hable to the full extent ofOlivier the law. de Vaulx Issue 38

October 2019

THE INSIDER

LOGO SHEET

THE KTM ULTIMATE CHALLENGE

INSTA-ADV

Design Chris Glaspell

INSTAGRAM TRAVELERS

Photography Editor Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Randy Commans Olivier de Vaulx Lukas Eddy Ashley Myhre

BLACK

Contributing Photographers Tim Burke Tom Carson Stephen W. Clark Olivier de Vaulx Lukas Eddy Ashley Myhre

PMS 021

RGB: R255 B255 G2550

RGB: R255 B80

CMYK: C40 M30 Y30 K100

CMYK: N80 Y100

GEAR THE LATEST

GETTING HIGH

TACKLING COLORADO’S HIGH PASSES

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Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell

KTM ADVENTURE RALLY

Business Development Brandon Glanville

Breckenridge, COLORADO

Special delivery

Want to advertise with us? Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

Motoquest ride - Anchorage, AL TO Portland, Or

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Contact: info@upshiftonline.com

Join us on Instagram at @ upshift_online

TESTED

Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online

YOSHIMURA RS-4 EXHAUST - KTM 790 ADVENTURE R KLIM F3 Carbon ECE helmet

Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/upshiftonline

ETHIOPIA PART 2 THE END

Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2019. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

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PROJECT RESURRECTION 2007 KTM 400XC-W


The KTM Ultimate Challeng INSIDER: RANDY COMMANS Before we get to this year’s KTM Challenge in Breckenridge, I need to let you know something....as I left last year’s challenge in Park City, I told myself I wasn’t going to do this again. It’s a tough event; pushing and dragging big bikes through rocky shizzle is not my thing. So when entries came out, I had to think twice about signing up. The challenge in Breck was tougher, longer; navigation was more intense, but the course was rideable. When I say rideable, don’t think easy, they threw much more at us. The sheer volume of rocky sections both up and down combined with endless single track left me wishing for a semi-smooth fire road or two-track, where I could sit down and catch my breath. Throw some altitude in the mix and GASP! I think the days started around 9,000 feet plus and took us as high as 13,800 feet. Each day included a special test: Day one was on the Leadville motocross track combined with a super tight wooded section; Day two was a single track navigation test loaded with 40 plus waypoints. Both special tests upped the intensity by forcing us to push the pace. My saving grace this year was that I was on a 790 Adventure R, a real game-changer. I really felt like we had an advantage, much like the 950s did last year. Kudos to those guys riding 10 and 1290s, they are animals and had to be suffering much worse. As tough as the two days of the challenge was, I must say that it was enjoyable. It was gratifying to get the job done, it was and is a challenge for me. I didn’t leave Breck saying no more. I left saying I’ll be back, I’ll be stronger, and I’ll be smarter. I’ll put it out there: I’d love to break into the top two. Some might think I’m crazy, but that’s the goal for 2020 McCall, Idaho. I’ll leave you with this, if you want to really enjoy everything the KTM Rally has to offer: the beauty, camaraderie, food, vendor row and the guided tours… don’t sign up for the challenge.


nge - A Rider’s Perspective


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The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

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INSTA-ADV


THE FW19 ADVENTURE COLLECTION

ADVENTURE STARTS NOW

With a new approach to adventure gear design, a fully upgraded base and mid layer range, amazing GORE-TEX winter gloves with the revolutionary Single Motion Closure System, and updated styles, the GORE-TEX collection not only got bigger, but also better. WWW.REVITSPORT.COM


Upshift - October

1. Firstgear Announces The Release Of The 2019 Spring Collection Our underlying focus for 2020 was to revise our heated line and simplify the way riders’ power and interact with their heated gear. Consistency was key for the entire line. Whether using a heated Jackets, vest, glove or Socks, every item turns on, scrolls through temperatures and turns off, the same. This ensures that through repetition, adjusting to your ideal comfort level will become muscle memory in no time. Another key feature is the ability to have selective heat throughout your body, each heated item can be set to its own temperature separate, ensuring the perfect balance of heat distribution. Both the Heated Vest and Heated Jacket (Battery Powered Model) can be powered by portable batteries allowing you to stay warm both on and off the bike. In addition, we have expanded our offering to our female riders with the NEW Voyage Jacket and feature matching Voyage Pant, along with 5 NEW models of gloves. For men we added the NEW Kilimanjaro boot featuring the MOZ closure system, to provide the perfect fit, every time. 5 NEW glove models were also crafted to cover the range from Adventure to Sport Touring, including our NEW Outrider Heated Glove. Riders around the world have come to love the feature filled products that FirstGear has brought to the market since our inception, and our 2020 Fall Collection is no different. With a spotlight on staying warm and dry, our NEW Heated Apparel line and NEW Rain-wear for both Men and Women, will keep you going when the mother nature throws you her worst. For More information on product please visit: www.firstgear-usa.com


Dual purpose at its finest, the Mobber features aggressive traction for both on and off-road while stable central blocks offer outstanding water dispersion. These dynamic knobbies go anywhere! ShinkoTireUSA.com


Upshift - October

2. 2019 KTM 790 Adventure R Drop-In Air Filter This KTM Powerparts drop in replacement air filter for your KTM 790 Adventure is intended for those looking to venture off the beaten path. Manufactured with high quality foam instead of paper like the stock element, this filter is serviceable and will filter out small particles such as dirt more effectively than stock. MSRP: $54.99. Part number: 63506915000. www.KTM.com

3. Seat Concepts Introduces 2019 KTM 790 Adventure Two Piece Comfort Seat New from Seat Concepts! The 790 Adventure comfort seat has been built up at the front to counter act the natural forward slope of the OEM seat along with a slimmer profile allowing for a more relaxed feel. The rear of the seat has also been widened to provide better weight distribution alleviating unwanted pressure points with the result of all day comfort. Starting at: $194.99 For more information go to *Note: Standard production times apply* www.seatconcepts.com

THE RIGHT TOOLS Easily Access Your Valve Stems To Manage Your Motorcycle’s Tire Pressure

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Upshift - October

4. Gerber Center-Drive Plus Multi-Tool The Center-Drive Plus offers uncompromising performance through revolutionary design, now optimized for weapons maintenance. The innovative center-axis driver opens to align like a real screw driver, yielding maximum torque and rotation. No productivity is sacrificed with the addition of a 30% longer outboard blade and one-thumb opening sliding jaws. Full size, real tools - the multi-tool just got a reality check. New to the Plus is the addition of much-requested scissors, tumble-finished tools, and a premium leather sheath. MSRP: $125.00 www.gerbergear.com Features: • Closed Length: 4.7” • Open Length: 6.6” • Weight: 9.5oz • Spring-Loaded Needlenose Pliers with X-Channel Rail System • Rotatable Carbide Wire Cutters & Strippers • Full-Size 3.25” Partially Serrated Blade • Magnetic 3.2” Center-Axis Bit Driver Pry Bar w/ Nail Puller & Bottle Opener • Serrated Blade • Awl, File • Magnetic Flathead and Phillips Bits • Spring-Loaded Scissors


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THIS 40% ON/60% OFF-ROAD TIRE IS 100% DESIGNED FOR YOUR ADVENTURE MOTORCYCLE. START THINKING ABOUT YOUR TIRES.




Wide Open

Thompson Pass, Alaska


Photo: Simon Cudby

2019


Wide Open

Livingstone, Zambia


Photo: Tim Burke

2019


Wide Open

Black Bear Pass, Colorado


Photo: Olivier de Vaulx

2019


Wide Open

Matanuska Glacier, Alaska

Photo: Tom Carson

2019


BMW Motorrad

TFT Display with Connectivity System

Ride Modes Pro with the Dynamic and Enduro functions.

ONE OBSTACLE. A THOUSAND OPPORTUNITIES. THE NEW BMW F 850 GS.

Find your limits – then surpass them. The F 850 GS’s available Ride Modes Pro optimizes performance, customizes throttle response, traction control, power delivery and ABS, so you can go forth and discover new paths. The TFT Display lets you connect your smartphone to the F 850 GS via Bluetooth and use the multi-controller to activate a wide range of functions, from navigation to media, so you’re perfectly equipped to discover the undiscovered. Visit www.BMWMotorcycles.com to see latest offers.

MAKE LIFE A RIDE. ®2019 BMW Motorrad USA, a division of BMW North America, LLC. The BMW name and logo are registered trademarks.


Wide Open

Stanley, Idaho


Photo: Stephen W. Clark

2019


Wide Open

Ophir Pass, Colorado


Photo: Olivier de Vaulx

2019


Wide Open

Stanley, Idaho

Photo: Simon Cudby

2019



Wide Open

Chitina, Alaska


Photo: Simon Cudby

2019


Wide Open

Dumont Dunes, California


Photo: Olivier de Vaulx

2019


Wide Open

Deadwood, Idaho

Photo: Simon Cudby

2019





Photo: R. Schedl

Professional rider on closed course depicted. Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com

THE ALL-NEW TE 150i Designed to take on the toughest trails, the all-new 2020 TE 150i is a highly capable off-road motorcycle, thanks to electronic fuel injection technology and a new dynamic chassis for a light and agile experience. This innovative 2-stroke machine pushes the boundaries of performance and maneuverability, letting you concentrate on the ride wherever the trail may lead.




Words and Photos: Olivier de Vaulx


Among many natural wonders, Colorado is well known for the Alpine loop, featuring some of the highest mountain passes in the USA. But there’s more to explore than Engineer and Cinnamon Pass in the area! Riding our small but unstoppable dual sport bikes, we managed to go over all the rougher passes around Ouray and Silverton. The arrival of the Honda CRF450L opened a new range of opportunities for adventurous riders eager to explore the American wilderness without dealing with 600 pound ADV bikes. Yet, since a gas engine loses about 36% of power at 12,000 ft due to the rarefaction of oxygen in altitude, would the small 450s be up to the challenge? Not the kind to let this crucial question go unanswered, we managed to fit two stock CRF450Ls and one HVA 701 in a Ford F-150 and drive from Southern California to Colorado to check the alpine capabilities of our little red dual sports. Countless hours of highway driving and a few bags of M&M’s later, we reached the little town of Ouray and its colorful buildings. With less than 2% of visitors from abroad, Ouray is like a hidden gem in the San Juan Mountains. Here you’ll find almost exclusively outdoor people ranging from hikers and MTB riders to ATV and Jeep lovers. The motorcycle enthusiasts were welcomed, and we noticed that nobody paid attention to our bikes while we mounted IMS 3-gallon tanks, wider Seat Concepts seats, and large Mosko Moto Reckless 40L bags on our 450s in the middle of our motel parking lot. Even better, for our first dinner in town we spent most of our time talking about dirt bikes with our waiter.




The first morning, waking up before the sun, we warmed up with a few miles on the Million dollar highway. The Dunlop D606 tires let us enjoy the tight corners of this narrow highway while the Alpinestars Andes Pro jackets and pants kept our bodies warm. The vertiginous dropoffs were a bit intimidating, and despite the comfort of our seats, we tightened the buttocks. The first trails, worn up by 4WDs, are bumpy and hard-packed, which let us appreciate the stability of the CRFs chassis. Jumping from one corner to the other, using every opportunity to wheelie over the boulders, we needed less than 15 minutes to reach Corkscrew Pass. The view on the surrounding red summits was absolutely stunning. We almost had to pinch ourselves to be sure we were not still dreaming! The colors were surreal, and if the ride had to end here, it would already be worth the drive up to Colorado! Fortunately, there was more to see. The bikes dove down a steep trail and we saw our first gold mine remains, spread all over a gorgeous valley. Again, we couldn’t help but stop and soak up the scenery. Going up again, we started to feel the elevation taking a toll on our engine’s horsepower. The throttle responsiveness was more linear, but the lightweight bikes made the ride still enjoyable. We overtook a few Jeeps in the steep and rocky sections to Hurricane pass. These four-wheelers were so slow it was painful to watch! Laughing under our SM10 helmets, we reached California pass in no time and stopped to fully admire its stunning turquoise lake. There was nobody around, the sky was so blue it almost looked fake, and some patches of snow, which resisted the summer’s daring sun, gave a clue about our elevation. It was our first snack stop over 12 thousand feet, and it felt really good! Going down another valley, following a lazy torrent through green pastures, we reached Animas Fork, where old mining facilities resist the test of time. From here, we reached the famous Alpine Loop, which consists of Engineer and Cinnamon Pass. Since we planned to go back to Ouray, we opted to try Engineer first. The climb was a bit rocky on a narrow trail, but there was nothing to challenge the suspension of our dirt-bike-based dual sports. Reaching the top, with all vents of our jackets and pants fully opened, we all stopped the engines, removed our helmets and stayed still, stunned by the 360° panoramic view. Wherever we turned our head, there were sharp and colorful summits to admire.




Engineer Pass should be renamed Photographer Pass since it’s almost impossible to resist the temptation to take pictures here. We all smiled like kids at a birthday party, while opening an insulated steel water bottle for what would probably be our highest and best coffee of all time! Heading down to reach civilization would prove a bit more difficult. Going through Mineral Creek, we had to fight our way through a gnarly mineral landscape, with trails dug on the mountainside and full of rolling rocks. Here, any mistake can cost you a big crash or, worse, a drop over the vertical cliff. Cautious at first, we raised the pace and started to feel pretty confident until two young local riders on motocross bikes passed us like rockets. Undoubtedly, our decades of experience didn’t weigh much against local knowledge of the tracks and the impetuousness of youth! Well, nobody was there to witness the humiliating lesson, and we kept it to ourselves when talking to other riders at the Ouray’s unique gas station! The next day, our muscles still stiff from both a lack of hydration and the unusual amount of workload we had in our first loop, we planned to raise the bar and to climb Imogene Pass. Indeed, some riders we met the previous evening confessed that they couldn’t make it with their DRZ400s and DR650s loaded with bags. According to them, the last steep climb was way too much for their bikes, which was exactly the kind of challenge we were looking for. The first part of the trail was indeed a bit technical but fun, with some river crossings and many line choices under the trees. Surprisingly, reaching the tree line, the ride got easier. The big remaining patches of snow made the trail narrow at times, but the path was well cleaned up. There were a few stunning vista points on the way, fortunately with no other rider or driver in sight. We enjoyed the moment before continuing the climb. We then caught up with a few four-wheelers crawling at a pathetic 2mph before reaching the last section of the Pass. Here, you can play it two ways: going in extreme-enduro mode and choosing to go over the big boulders that you’ll encounter every fifty yards, or being careful and picking the by-pass lines. The CRFs couldn’t deny their racing genes and obviously, we took all the most difficult lines, hitting the rocks as we would do with trial bikes. That was physically demanding but so much fun! However, the rider of the 701, fighting with the height and the extra weight of his bike, didn’t enjoy this section as much as we did. He still managed to take most of our lines, but it was a workout. Reaching the top, the two red bikes were still the center of attention and three KTM riders on two-stroke enduros asked us questions. We let them try our 450s and we were pleased to see that our dual sport bikes seemed to impress these hard-core Colorado riders, even if they were loaded with bags full of gear! Equally impressive was Imogene Pass’ elevation of 13,114 ft. That’s higher than Mount Fuji, and our little Japanese bikes climbed it with such ease that it was almost frustrating!





ADVENTURE BEGINS HERE TRAILTECH.NET

#RIDETRAILTECH


Where do you need to go to make these engines stall? Going down, there were a couple loose screes to cross but nothing to prevent us from enjoying the scenery. The town of Telluride was hosting a film festival, which made it difficult to find a place to park, yet we got a drink and a burger before heading back to Ouray. Cruising with no vibration at 65mph on the highway, with all the comfort of our wide Seat Concepts seats, we ended the day on an easy note, reaching town with still some energy left for a big beer party at the local brewery. For our last day in the area, since Ouray was sold out, we had no choice but to sleep in the historical city of Silverton. It allowed us to go through two new passes: Black Bear Pass from Ouray to Telluride, then Ophir Pass to Silverton. The infamous Black Bear was the ultimate test to which the bravest of Jeep drivers must measure themselves; this was not reassuring and we started the climb early in the morning with a little apprehension. Seeing the color dots of the two other riders on the screen of our Trail Tech Voyager Pro equipped with buddy tracking sensors was reassuring, as we knew we were not alone on the mountain! Mention of 1,000 ft drop-offs and step gaps was on our mind as we rode carefully. Reaching the actual pass was surprisingly easy and we felt almost disappointed by the lack of challenge. Going back down in the valley, the trails got more technical with every hundred feet of elevation loss.

GET LOST ON PURPOSE




Rolling rocks, steep gaps, tight corners; there were enough difficulties to keep a good rider pretty busy. We finally reached the most iconic part of this trail, where the cliff opened on a stunning view of Telluride a few thousand feet below. The terrain was really messy, with rocky steps made slippery by the rain. We understood why 4X4 aficionados get an adrenaline shot while driving this section! On two wheels, the margin of error increased considerably and we enjoyed the ride on the rocks, before throwing our tiny bikes on the inside line of each of the ten following switchbacks. This section would have been scary on a big adventure bike, but on a dual-sport, it couldn’t have been more fun! Back in Telluride, there was no shortage of small cafes to take a drink, waiting for the rain to stop before saddling up toward Ophir Pass. After crossing the small town of Ophir, we found ourselves on a very narrow but pretty straight path. It would have been a super easy ride if the trail had not been covered by billions of small stones. On this unstable surface, stopping was not an option and momentum was key. The smallest bikes shined once again and while we stopped and snapped a few pictures on the go, we witnessed the attempts of a few riders on big adventure motorcycles. They all made it eventually, but with more sweat than fun.




II N N N O V AA TT II NN GG

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COMPOS IT E CCONSTRUCTION ONST RUCT ION COMPOSITE AHE AD FIT ME NT SYST EM A-HEAD FITMENT SYSTEM COLL ARBONE PROT ECT ION COLL ARBONE PROTECTION MULTI -ANGLE VIS OR RE LE AS E SYST E M MULTI-ANGLE VISOR RELEASE SYSTEM EF F ECTI VE ROTAT IONAL IMPACT ABS ORPT ION EFFECTIVE ROTATIONAL IMPACT ABSORPTION 4 SHEL L S IZES WIT H 4 DE NS IT Y E PS 4 SHELL SIZES WITH 4 DENSITY EPS ULT RA-H IGH VE NT IL AT ION ULTRA-HIGH VENTIL ATION

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The landscape was magnificent, sometimes making it hard to focus on the trail. It’s no wonder why Colorado is called the “colorful state!” Going down on the other side was uneventful. The weather was still great and even though we could have reached Silverton via the highway, we opted for a detour via Cinnamon Pass. This was the opportunity to go through some of the previous Passes, that we rediscovered with even more pleasure. Back to Silverton, our stay at the historic Teller House for the price of an anonymous motel made us feel special. Climbing the old stairs with our boots, like cowboys coming back home after months in the wilderness, we almost expected to see John Wayne in the lobby. The old steam locomotive of the Durango to Silverton line whistling three times added to the illusion with perfect timing and we couldn’t help but laugh! We finally fell on our beds, tired but happy. These three days were so rich in sensations that we felt like we were on the road for weeks. There were too many memories and colors to know where to start the story when we called friends and family back home, but there was something we were all sure about: To fully enjoy these giant mountains, small bikes are the best choice; the David and Goliath story never seemed so true! Big Thanks: Thumbs up to Christophe Pierrat (who came from France to ride the CRF450L) and Turu Illgen (who brought his own HVA 701), for their patience during the countless photo sessions of this trip! A big round of applause to: Honda USA for the loan of two CRF450Ls; Alpinestars for the Andes Pro gear and the SM10 helmets; Ride 100% for the new Armega goggles; Trail Tech for the GPS Voyager Pro with Buddy tracking; Seat Concepts for the ultra comfortable seats; IMS for the mandatory 3-gallon tanks; Acerbis for the X-Factor hand guards; and Dunlop for the long lasting D606 DOT tires.




PRO PLUS+ is an ester fortified full synthetic 4T engine oil “Built For Adventure”. For use in all motorcycle brands: KTM, HONDA, BMW, YAMAHA, TRIUMPH, KAWASAKI, SUZUKI, HUSQVARNA & more. Available in 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50 & 20W-50

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B R E C K E N R I D G E ,

C O L O R A D O PHOTOS: Simon Cudby


Steve Masterson and Reno Wideson from Kiska, and KTM’s Michael Wildling check out the pits.

Jimmy Lewis and John Hinz talk riding tips.


KTM Ultimate Race competitor Adam McCluskey heads out.

The Caselli Foundation ladies doing great work.

Mike Lafferty and Scott Myers changing tires.



Big scenery on the trail up to Webster Pass at 12,103 feet.


Jacki Short getting wet boots early in the day!


Off-road legend Scot Harden running our Upshift graphics on his big KTM.

This year was the first time for a cold overnight camp-out. Photo Chris Fillmore.



Seiji Ishii giving his new KTM 790R a workout.


Moto dog Deacon riding with the other big dogs!



YOUR ADVENTURE - OUR PASSION

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SPECIAL DELIVE

Motoquest’s “Tra


ansporter Special” ride from Anchorage, Alaska to Portland, Oregon

ERY

WORDS: SIMON CUDBY PHOTOS: SIMON CUDBY AND TOM CARSON



“Do you want to ride from Alaska to Oregon this fall?” On the phone was my friend ex motocross pro Tom Carson. Immediately I said, “yes” without actually hearing any details. Tom, who runs the Alpinestars Medic Rig at all the US Supercross and Motocross events, had just wrapped up a long season at the races and was jonesing to do a big adventure trip. He is friends with the folks at Motoquest , and had set up a rental deal that involved riding bikes from Motoquest’s Anchorage location down to Portland. As winter is rapidly setting in Alaska there is not much call for adventure bike rentals in the extreme northwest, hence their need to move the bikes south for the winter months. Also the price of this Transporter Special is reduced from the Motoquest regular rates, so it’s a good deal. Once I had all the actual info, I realized this could be a two-week ride covering a ton of miles, and I didn’t really know what to expect. I did a quick “directions” on my iPhone map and saw the distance was about 2400 miles. This could take a while… I spent a few days packing up all my gear, and soon I was flying up to Anchorage. My hotel was just across the street from Motoquest’s headquarters, so I stopped by to say “hi” the afternoon before our scheduled pick-up. The Anchorage crew immediately made me feel welcome and handed me a cold beer as it was after 4pm. The walls of the offices were covered in magazine clippings and moto travel memorabilia from all over the world. Tom’s flight landed later that day, and the next morning we packed up our bikes with our gear for the next few weeks. I was to be on a BMW GS800, and Tom was going to be riding a Suzuki V-Strom 650. Motoquest offers some other options such as bigger BMW GS1200 bikes, but we were quite happy with our chosen rides. We had geared up our Arai XD-4 helmets with the SENA 30K intercoms, which were put to use right away as we navigated our way out of the city of Anchorage. We made a wrong turn and found ourselves on a muddy trail next to the Matanuska River. Normally I’d keep going to find a way through, but the trail dead-ended pretty quickly. Soon we were back on track and making quick work of the highway miles toward our first night’s stop in Valdez, AK.






We made several stops along the way, the best stop being the Matanuska Glacier. We were able to do some off-road action to get down to the viewpoint, and we found a little cut off side road that gave us some good photo opportunities. I soon realized that for us to keep on schedule, we would have to make our photo stops short and sweet, getting back on the gas as soon as possible. The ride to Valdez was an out-and-back so I scoped out some photo spots for our ride out the next morning. Arriving almost at nightfall, we found a hotel, reflected on our day, and planned for our next day’s adventure. Up early and back on the road, we stopped at the epic Thompson Pass outside of Valdez for some photo action, and found some dirt double track. Riding early morning in Alaska in late August is cold, so we were well wrapped up. Our bikes were fully loaded so even this little detour was challenging but still fun. Our goal for the day was to make it out to McCarthy, AK to stay the night. This was another out-and-back from the highway, but this time it was 60 miles of fast gravel road. Both of our bikes were mounted up with Shinko 705 tires that are a 70% road / 30% dirt combo that worked surprisingly well on the gravel with loaded bikes. We were able to push pretty hard on the dirt section out to McCarthy, which put us there after lunch.




We decided to head back out to the freeway and head north to find a hotel in Glennallen, which proved to be a difficult task as everything we found was fully booked for some reason. We had visions of sleeping in the bug-infested woods, but at literally last light, we connected with Brad at Buck’s Cabin Rental and rolled up to a picture perfect spot away from the crowd in town. We got lucky this time, so moving forward we would need to be better prepared with our lodging. Our planning for gas stops took a hit the following morning as we had researched a fuel stop in Slana, only to find out there actually wasn’t gas in Slana. Great. We limped north at about 55mph on a fuel-saving mission and rolled into the bigger town of Tok with about five miles worth of gas left in the BMW. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention we hadn’t eaten lunch or dinner the previous day, so it was a nice change to hit the restaurant in Tok and eat actual food, not just bars and trail mix.





After going north for a few days, it was time to head east from Tok, and we pushed on toward the Canadian border. The roads just went on forever, and I was constantly scanning the landscape for some good dirt side roads that we could explore. Funny thing is, there weren’t any. Literally, just a road with trees on either side for hundreds of miles. We saw some snow-covered peaks in the distance, but there was just no way to get to them. We crossed into Canada at an easy border crossing and spent the night in Beaver Creek, in the Yukon Territory. Up early, we made up big miles again on our way to Whitehorse, YT. I had talked to Tom a few days earlier, and our actual mileage was going to be closer to 3500. It was time to put in some 400+ mile days, so we ended up on the bikes for eight or nine hours a day for the next few days and made our way through Whitehorse and onto the Cassiar Highway. Then it happened‌ we saw a bear! Having not seen any wildlife so far, this was a big moment. The big guy just wandered past us as we sat by the side of the road on our bikes, looking over a few times before cruising into the trees.




The Cassiar Highway is off the beaten path and proved more interesting than the previous days of highway pounding. Small lakes surrounded by a million trees is a good place for bugs to hang out, and we were getting pretty good at cleaning bugs off our shields without stopping. Got to keep those miles going! We were now on day five, or was it six? I had lost track of time as we had been on the Ride-Eat-Sleep-Repeat program. After the Cassiar Highway was behind us, we were in for a big treat. We turned toward the coast and rode down a great road (37A) into the small town of Stewart, BC. We stopped at Bear Glacier for a break and thought how cool this spot was. Little did we know what we would be seeing later that same day. After checking into our hotel in Stewart mid-afternoon, we crossed into the US at the town of Hyder. Our plan was to go along the Salmon River up to another glacier. As we headed out of Hyder, the smell of fish became quite apparent. Stopping at the Fish Creek Wildlife viewing area we soon found out why. This is the place where salmon head upstream in the shallow river and end up as bear treats. We saw another black bear who was actually more interested in pulling berries from the trees than the fish buffet a few feet away.






The road up to the Salmon Glacier was a fun off-road climb to a breathtaking viewpoint overlooking an enormous glacial flow. Truly amazing. After making our way back across the border into Canada, we had a bit of a wake up call. We had met a couple of other riders doing the Transporter Special, Junior and David. It turns out that the ambulance we had passed earlier in the day was on its way to collect David, who had wrecked at speed on the road about a hundred miles behind us, and now had a broken bone in his wrist. I thought about how many miles we still had to go and was a little nervous about the remainder of the ride, onward and upward though. We put in another couple of marathon days through British Columbia, and all of a sudden we were in Princeton, BC, just about 60 miles from the US border crossing into Washington State. Our plan was to hit the top section of the Washington BDR so that we could get a break from the relentless asphalt grind, and shoot some photos in the dirt.




We crossed at probably one of the quietest US borders there is at Nighthawk Road. We didn’t see another soul except for the border agent. It took us all of two minutes to get through, and we were once again back on US soil. Time to hit some dirt! The WABDR was a lot of fun for us on the big bikes, and we saw a few other riders on the trail heading north. As the temperatures started getting up into the 90°F zone, we cut out onto the asphalt. The temp kept rising past 95°F, and this was a big contrast to some of the 34°F mornings just a few days earlier. We crawled into Leavenworth, WA in the late afternoon, and Tom sprung for a flashy hotel in downtown. It was actually about the same price as some of the standard hotels we had stayed at the week before, but it felt pretty high end!



We were getting so close now we could feel it. We had made up two days on our proposed arrival time into Portland, OR, but we were quite okay with that, as I think both Tom and I were ready to be done. One more early start and we blasted along the Hood River into the Portland Motoquest office. Nine and a half days and 3500 miles later and we had made it! Big thanks to Brenden at Motoquest, SENA communications, Shinko tires, Arai helmets, and Alpinestars for helping us with this trip. I definitely want to go back to Alaska again and head north from Anchorage into some more off-road wilderness areas. If you’re interested in a bike tour or bike rentals, hit up the good folks at Motoquest and head out on your own adventure. For more information go to www.motoquest.com. To see and hear more about the rides be sure to check out our Youtube video here.



TESTED

BY SIMON CUDBY

Y o s himur a R S - 4 S l ip -on E x hau s t f or K T M 7 9 0 Ad v e n t ur e R When we finally got our hands on the most anticipated adventure bike in recent times, the KTM 790 Adventure R, our buddies at Yosh were quick to send us the very first RS-4 pipe off their production line. We were heading out to the KTM Rider Rally in Breckenridge, CO and were keen to see how the new slip-on addition performed. First, like all Yoshimura pipes we have used in the past, this pipe looks like a piece of metal jewelry. Almost too nice to rough up on some rocky trails… almost! We also really like the trick looking carbon heat shield at the front end of the canister. Very factory. Having ridden the 790R for more than a thousand miles with the stock exhaust, I was very familiar with the “feel” of the power delivery. Once the Yosh pipe was installed with the included hardware, I did a few miles on a smooth section of asphalt to see if the bike felt much different. At the first crack of the throttle I noticed that the bike was slightly louder than stock, which was no surprise, but what did surprise me was the fact that the pipe was much quieter than my 1090R with a Yosh set-up. Sure, an 800cc bike will be quieter than its 1100cc brother with a similarly configured pipe, but the 790R/Yoshimura RS-4 team was a pleasantly quiet combination. Power wise I could definitely feel a boost over stock, and Yosh’s dyno figures confirm a 5.5% increase in max HP, and a 4.7% increase in max torque numbers. Although the weight difference is very slight with just over a three-ounce savings (stock 7.9 lbs vs. Yosh 7.7 lbs), every little bit helps. For me, the power and the styling make up for the minimal weight advantages. As I put more time on the RS-4, I was happy about the subtle sound change after about 150 miles of break in. The bike had started to sound even better as I headed out on a five-day/1100 mile mission deep into Idaho. A more noticeable bark had developed, and with the KTM Quickshift up and down shifting, I started to hear a cool “blip” occasionally whilst changing gears. All in all, at around $600 for this slip-on muffler, it’s a good addition not only in the area of performance, but it’s a great way to make this awesome bike look even cooler! MSRP $599.99 www.yoshimura-rd.com



TESTED

KLIM F3 Carbon ECE helmet Helmets are one of those things that are a necessary evil; we have to wear them for safety but in some cases they can be hot, heavy, inhibit your vision and generally not that pleasant to wear. Thankfully brands like KLIM are out there developing products to improve our riding experience by making gear that keeps us safe, comfortable and looking good. The latest helmet from the Idaho-based brand is the super lightweight F3 Carbon ECE moto helmet. Weight is always a massive factor when it comes to helmets because carrying around extra pounds on your head all day can really increase fatigue. We all want to ride longer, stay sharper and feel better at the end of the day, and lightweight helmets definitely help. Carbon fiber is one of the lightest and strongest materials on the planet making it the perfect material for the shell of the helmet. The shell of the F3 features hand laid carbon, which is very labor intensive to manufacture. To showcase the beautiful carbon work, both F3 helmets have just a clear coat finish. In the case of carbon products, the raw carbon look is typically a sign of quality because the manufacturer can’t hide any imperfections behind paint. Venting is equally as critical as weight, especially in the case of an offroad helmet. In the nasty off-road terrain when speeds are low but you are working hard, it’s super important that the helmet has the venting to let that cool air in and let that hot sweat out. The F3 has a total of thirteen intake vents and six exhaust vents, and while it’s not quite as vented as its heavily vented big brother the F5, it still does a really good job. We found the top upper brow vents let a lot of air into the helmet especially when riding at speed. Following the theme of improving the rider’s experience, KLIM put a Fidlock quick release strap system on the F3 Carbon ECE instead of a standard D-Ring strap. This system uses a mechanical latch with magnets that guide the mechanism into place so it’s very easy to use. You simply get the latches close together and the magnets snap the closure together. To unfasten the latch you pull a small red tab and the strap is released. We did find that it’s important to keep an eye on the strap length as unlike a standard D-Ring system, you can’t cinch it tight quite as easily, and in time the strap will become looser. Overall, the system is great as it makes putting the helmet on and off so much quicker, making your day just that little bit better.



KLIM F3 Carbon ECE helmet The F3 Carbon carries the ECE safety certification but is not DOT certified so it’s technically not legal for street use in the US. ECE is a European standard that is accepted in many countries around the world and many racing organizations, whereas DOT is a US standard. The bottom line is that helmet rules vary state to state for on-road, off-road and racing use so it’s important for riders to research the rules of their intended riding before making a purchase. If you are looking for a really light helmet you are going to be hard pressed to find anything lighter than the F3 Carbon ECE. In addition to the weight benefits, the helmet is comfortable, vents well and seems to be well built. The Fidlock is another big benefit as it makes the helmet so much easier to put on and off. The graphics are simple but tasteful and you really can’t go wrong with that raw carbon look. Overall it’s a really good helmet. MSRP: $399.99. www.klim.com


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P A R T

T W O


WORDS AND PHOTOS BY ASHLEY MYHRE


THE END I start thinking about the end, right after a trip begins. Horrible! I know. I can’t seem to help myself. Every day I toil over how much time is left, how far-reaching my curiosity is, and if I’ll have enough time to experience it all. Better get moving!

MIS-INFORMATION: CHOOSING A ROUTE Rolling out of the South Omo Valley was hard. The sounds and smells of our tribal experience glistened dewy and fresh, and although we were ready to move north, it all seemed so surreal and otherworldly. There came a certain weight with that, but alas… moods change, and it was time to shake up the scenery. Onward and upward! We would head north from Turmi to Jinka – we usually only take bitesized chunks of trip planning, we’re definitely a make it up as you go duo. The most interesting and ideal route wound along the eastern border of Mago national park and everything on the GPS checked out, but when we asked locals about the road, there was a confident and resounding NO. One of maybe 15 different people we asked encouraged us to continue, all others adamantly swore we’d be turned around. But why? How are they so sure? We continued against our loyal advisors.




The road was definitely rough. Covered in fine silt, maybe 6-12 inches deep in spots, layered into deep tire ruts, over a rough washboard surface, with a bunch of loose rocks mixed in. Not that challenging in terms of technical difficulty, just slow going, and taxing. It turned out the exaggerated warnings were, well, just that. Our trip could now continue meandering north through the countryside away from the sprawling chaos of the city. Mis-information is a common theme on motorbike trips through developing countries. You have to pick through the array of advice and make your own determinations in the end. Tips: Use Gaia maps on your unlocked cell phone, bring paper maps with you (you won’t find them in the country!) and gather notes from locals along the way. We usually scribble reminders and warnings all over the map: “Danger, you’ll get shot!”; “Wildlife and decent lodging in the park”; “Don’t miss this mountain range!” Be smart, and keep an open ear to the local advice as you approach your next section in question – but always do your best to evaluate the messenger. Do they ride a motorbike? When did they last travel the road? These answers will help you gauge the accuracy of their kind warnings or confidence in your route.


CHAPEL IN THE SKY Simply put, Ethiopia embodies ancient culture. As we picked our way north through the ruins, ancient kingdoms, churches, and castles, I began to know this at not only an intellectual, but an experiential level. There we stood, 2500 feet above the earth. Barefoot on the sandstone, I had tears in my eyes, and vertiginous drops to the valleys below made every cell in my body feel like it was gently vibrating. We visited 3 Rock-hewn churches that day in Tigray: Abuna Yemata Guh, Maryam Korkor and Daniel Korkor. Let me tell you, the climbing was INSANE. An all-day, 12-hour climb, with no ropes or safety gear whatsoever. Now, I’m a rock climber. I’ve been climbing since I was 9 years old. Nationally ranked and experienced with multi-pitch, technical assents. This was the nuttiest of them all. And wait, we’re climbing way up into the spires, to go to church? Whether a move to avoid enemies or a strategic move to be closer to God, it was definitely something to marvel. Frescoes decorated the walls inside the church, and we were greeted kindly by the priest who lived there. I was drawn to my knees as I studied the walls, mouth agape. I really felt something there in the world’s most dangerous church. Something profound and unforgettable. A formidable climb punctuated with the most stunning chapels I’d ever seen and a priest who touched my heart and shared the wisdom in his eyes. Religion, devotion, belief – such driving forces for so many people and so much of our world history. I couldn’t help but wonder if the climb, the location of the churches, was set as a test of devotion, of faith. I know that way up there, at the chapel in the sky, I was indeed able to see and sense the miracles all around me. Powerful indeed.



BED BUGS Although we landed in this rugged, landlocked country filled with dead viruses (vaccines) and ready for just about anything, I was exasperated and itchier than I’d ever been in my life. Two weeks into the trip, Pete and I are suddenly adorned with 50-60 bed bug bites each, sprawling all along our arms and torso. Where was the bed bug vaccine, and why hadn’t anyone given it to me? Somewhere between Jimma and Gondar, they’d mauled us, maybe it was that 88 birrs/night ($3 USD) local hotel in Bure. Ew. Ew. Ew. I just couldn’t believe it. A day of the quarantine, sterilizing our gear as best we could, and we hit the road again. Pausing in Gondar to admire the castles in all their wonder, and working our way north bit by bit. I was jammin’, tunes on, cruising slow speed, head bobbing as I danced around on the bike enthusiastically. Smiles and waves for the day!. Damn this is the good stuff. Beautiful, fleeting moments and joy so pure you want to bottle that shit up. I shared a smile so warm and genuine with a little girl walking alongside her schoolmates, I’d turned around to get another glance before I lost sight of her and she’d done just the same. We made eye contact again, and held it as long as we could. You don’t forget things like that.

3736 The total number of kilometers we traveled during our monthlong journey: three thousand seven hundred and thirty-six. Wow. I had the ancient numeric symbols corresponding to this number tattooed on my right tricep, along with the Amharic translation of “Let’s check it” on my left forearm. Getting a tattoo in Addis Ababa was definitely sketchier than I’d bargained for, but it all worked out. No Hep C here! “Let’s check it” is commonly said by people all over the country. I keyed into this early on and fell in love with the saying. It always presented an attitude of positivity, curiosity, and commitment to spontaneity. All good things in my book. Ethiopia is a must; the people are welcoming, and the landscapes are biblical. The riding on these trips is less about speed, performance, and distance – it’s about assimilating, experiencing and meandering through space and time. Check out part one of this journey through Ethiopia in Issue 34 Here.




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PROJECT RESURRECTION: 2007 KTM 400XC-W

BY LUKAS EDDY




Modern beauty standards. Unrealistic, but inspirational. Daydream fodder. They tease mere mortals with a hint at what could be, but isn’t. For many of us, such is the world of modern dirt bikes, dual-sports and enduros- whatever you may call them. Their retail prices have been climbing as steadily as their capability, but at what point do you get what you pay for? And is it what you need? Let’s back up for a moment, because those questions helped spur this 2007 KTM 400XC-W project bike. When looking for a new dual-sport, there are three main categories of options for getting a “modern” bike: buy a new bike for more than $10,000; spend maybe $6,000 on a nice used bike; spend $2,500 or less on a bike that needs love, with the understanding you’ll spend more money in smaller increments along the way. I chose the latter. My thought process informed me I could buy a $2,500 bike, spend some more cash over a period of time, and end up with a personally tailored bike “worth” five grand, but where I had personally confirmed the condition of every component. For the sake of this discussion, the exact bike model is secondary. I chose the ‘07 KTM in this case, but the concept remains the same no matter what you buy. Instead of buying a completely ready bike up front, you spread the money out over time. It’s almost like a loan except you don’t owe anyone money, you just spend time getting familiar with the machine.


Back in 2007, that KTM 400 was the four stroke to have for technical riding. Nowadays, 12 years later, I’m writing this while people debate how much better than sliced bread the new 300cc injected two strokes are. I paid roughly $2,500 for the KTM with the knowledge that it needed a bit of love, but the bones were good. The goal was to tailor it for everything from singletrack to light moto-camping. Before long, there was half a motor and the frame sitting in my shop. I cleaned and greased every electrical connector, greased or replaced every chassis bearing, cleaned up the wiring harness, rebuilt the carb, loctited or anti-seized almost every bolt, replaced every leaking or cracked seal, had the cylinder head overhauled, rebuilt the top end, had the suspension rebuilt, the list goes on. Fortunately, plenty of companies exist to make a comprehensive overhaul like this a fairly painless process, even for a 12-year old bike with a fairly short KTM-styled production run. The usual suspects in this refresh build were: new tires (Shinko 216MX Fat Tire front and 505 Cheater rear), a swap to Nitromousses for flat protection, and a new chain and shorter sprocket set from DDC. That rear sprocket will last forever. To prepare the 400 for the abuse I’d be dishing out on Idaho singletrack, various protective measures had to be taken. New protective bits from Enduro Engineering and Devol met the requirements for hard parts. Another significant bolt-on was an IMS 2.9-gal tank. I don’t like to carry auxiliary fuel unless critical, so the slightly larger fuel tank makes life just a bit easier when pushing 100+ mile singletrack days. Of course, being a project bike, it wouldn’t be fair to leave the scuffed up plastics, so some new Acerbis pieces bolted up with new graphics. Major projects were the motor and suspension work.




After I sent the cylinder head out for a full rebuild with new +1mm valves, Thumper Racing proved to be the one-stop-shop for all engine upgrades and replacement parts. I knew I needed a new top end, and they had the solution I was seeking. For basically the same price as a new OEM piston and a fresh Nikasil cylinder coating, you can get Thumper Racing’s 453cc big bore kit for the 398cc RFS motor. With this kit, the torquey 400 RFS motor gets a bit more top end power. Not that it needed the extra power but riding at higher elevations means we might as well take a few more ponies while the motor was apart. Following Travis’s advice, we ended up with a new “8/33” cam as well, giving the motor very smooth, electric power that just keeps building where the stock KTM 400 “595/0121” cam falls off. Alex at Konflict Motorsports was going to do a simple rebuild, polish, and re-spring on the suspension. Upon disassembling the shock, he found a broken rebound damping adjuster. It would turn, giving the indication it worked, but wasn’t actually adjusting anything. To replace it, you have to replace the whole clevis… for almost $700. To avoid that cost, he shipped it to a buddy of his with a machine shop, where they carefully drilled out the broken adjuster and reinstalled a new one. This is the beauty of working with people who care. How does it ride? Surprisingly well for a chassis and motor design that’s more than a decade old. We can’t expect the suspension to be at the level of cone valve forks, but these older 48mm WP forks are not bad. Sprung for my weight, they resist bottoming out quite well without feeling excessively harsh in rough rocks and roots. The motor, too, is pleasantly powerful. We were able to maintain excellent tractability at low rpms and it resists stalling surprisingly well, which is not a common compliment given to most modern four strokes. In the open desert, the power keeps building up in a confident, smooth manner that’s deceptively quick. There are always more upgrades that would further push this bike into “modern” territory, but this stage of the build is a very solid, capable platform for a wide variety of riding conditions. You don’t need a new bike to have fun.


With upgrades and replacement parts in mind, we must consider what we’re doing in the big picture. When buying any used bike, there is a cornucopia of unanswered questions that we should settle with our own eyes. Even though I was concerned about some engine noise after rebuilding the motor and completely disassembled the top end a second time (it’s all ok) it’s still better than buying a more expensive used bike and facing potentially the same problem. That’s the thing with any used bike. Once a stranger has laid their grubby mitts on it, you don’t have any guarantees about the condition of critical components. However, in today’s world of aftermarket accessory companies, the resources exist to make cheaper used bikes an appealing option. Riding a motorcycle is naturally a self-reliant activity, and servicing your own machine is a part of the entire experience. You can’t genuinely get the same comprehensive motorcycle ownership experience from a spotless new bike. Spending your nights wrenching is where you build the bond that makes the ride even more rewarding. Buying the cheaper used bike gets you more than what you paid for. You’re reading Upshift Online right now. You care about motorcycling and the experiences you can only get from riding. Life is short, and the time we spend riding is even shorter, so what’s important is that we have the best experience possible every time we ride.

Thanks to the following brands: Thumper Racing 453cc Big Bore Kit including gaskets/seals, 8/33 Stage 2 cam, jet kit...................................................... www.thumperracing.net Konflict Motorsports Full suspension rebuild, polished internals, fork springs for rider weight........................................ www.konflictmotorsports.com Shinko Tire USA Shinko 505 Hybrid Cheater Rear, 216MX Fat Tire Front................................................................................www.shinkotireusa.com Nitro Mousse Front/Rear 10-12 psi mousses..........................................................................................................................www.shinkotireusa.com All Balls Racing Full chassis/shock/wheel bearing kits, full brake master cylinder/caliper rebuild kits, full carb/carb mid-body rebuild kits, countershaft seal kit, clutch master/slave rebuild kit..................... www.allballsracing.com Enduro Engineering Skid plate, clutch slave cylinder guard, lever guards/plastics.......................................................................... www.enduroeng.com Devol Racing Radiator guards..................................................................................................................................................... www.devolracing.com DDC Racing Front/rear sprockets, RK Gold XW-Ring chain, rear sprocket bolts.....................................................................www.ddcracing.net IMS Products 2.9 gallon fuel tank.............................................................................................................................................. www.imsproducts.com Motion Pro Control levers, throttle cables............................................................................................................................... www.motionpro.com Acerbis USA Full plastic kit.......................................................................................................................................................... www.acerbisusa.com CV4 Powersports/CV4.aspx - Radiator hoses................................................................................................................... www.wiseco.com ODI Grips Lock-on grips............................................................................................................................................................... www.odigrips.com Trail Tech Voyager GPS w/ aluminum housing, hour meter......................................................................................................www.trailtech.net





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