Issue 40
December 2019
CONQUER THE BIGGEST ADVENTURES Torque your way out of any situation with the most powerful offroad adventure bike on the market. The KTM 1290 SUPER ADVENTURE R is where Dakar-winning DNA meets the ultimate in power and technology, delivering a limit-crushing ride that enables you to charge off further than ever before.
KTM Group Partner
Professional rider, do not attempt to imitate. Always wear protective safety gear and ride in a responsible manner. European specification model shown with optional equipment available at additional cost.
Photo: F. Lackner
Issue 40 DECEMBER 2019
ry information: These drawings contain information ry to Upshift. Any reproduction, or transmittal of this on without expressed written consent is prohibited by se partial or complete of the sordCover marks is prohibited hable to the full extent of the law. Cudby Simon Issue 40
December 2019
LOGO SHEET
THE INSIDER RIP: Shootouts
Design Chris Glaspell
INSTA-ADV
Photography Editor Simon Cudby
INSTAGRAM TRAVELERS
Contributing Writers Stephen W. Clark Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Blake Draguesku Scot Harden Seiji Ishii
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GEAR THE LATEST
Contributing Photographers Tim Burke Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Blake Draguesku Marcin Kin
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UTAH’S Other RIDING PARADISE
Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell Business Development Brandon Glanville
COLORADO DIRT BACK COUNTRY DISCOVERY ROUTE
Want to advertise with us? Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com
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Contact: info@upshiftonline.com
TESTED
BOLT IT ON MOTO RACKS REV’IT! EXPEDITION H2O BOOTS TRAIL TECH VOYAGER PRO
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TEXAS TORNADO COLIN EDWARD’S MOTO BOOT CAMP
Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2019. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.
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ESCAPE From L.A. BIG SUR OR BUST?
RIP: SHOOTOUTS INSIDER: SCOT HARDEN
When Simon, Chris, and Brandon first shared their vision for Upshift with me, I immediately became their biggest fan. A website/magazine dedicated entirely to the world of adventure and off-road motorcycling, a resource focused on the latest gear, set-up information, rallies, and special events, and even personal diaries all designed to enhance the experience and help readers along on their journey through the sport. Most of all, Upshift would be a visual feast. A constant flow of beautiful imagery, stunning photography, and breathtaking glimpses of what lies around the next bend, over the next hill, and across the next river. Reportage from around the world of motorcycles, destinations, and peak life experiences connected to the sport we love. Was I interested in being a part of it, sharing what insight I could from time to time from a lifetime of pushing boundaries as a racer, industry executive, advocate, and enthusiast? Hell yes! And hell, yes, some more! In the three years since it launched, Upshift has more than met its mandate to bring all things adventure and off-road motorcycling to the masses. Of all its great accomplishments, one thing I am proud to say Upshift has never done is talk down to its readers. I’m talking about “Shootouts,” comparison tests, the industry practice of evaluating a bunch of similar motorcycles, ranking them against each other, and divining to its readership which one is best. This media staple has long been the bane of my existence, first as a media and marketing exec for companies like KTM, Husky, and Zero, where sales literally lived or died based on the results of the proclamations of supposed media gurus. Second, as a reader where my intelligence was insulted every time a magazine in their infinite wisdom saw fit to decide for me what apparently, I couldn’t figure out for myself, which bike or aftermarket product was best for me. Kudos to Upshift for treating its readers with more respect. “Shootouts” were created as a cheesy way to up circulation; sell more copies on the newsstand. All the while, ignoring the fact that riders are individuals, that we all have different needs and expectations for the motorcycles and gear we select. Just give me the facts, let me know how the bike works, what its strengths and weaknesses are, how it holds up over time, and let me be the judge. As it turns out, we are all much smarter than the mainstream editors give us credit for. In the meantime, keep up the excellent work Upshift. Thanks for treating me like a grown adult, or well, almost like an adult. Let’s face it, anyone who knows me knows I’m someone with a greatly extended adolescence at best!
MAK E I T Y O U
@RideDunlop DunlopMotorcycleTires.com ©2019 Dunlop Motorcycle Tires.
U R M I S SI O N TOTO CU CUTT LOO LOOSESE
TRAILMA TRAILMAX XMIS MISSION: SION:DESI DESIG GNNEDEDTOTOTAKE TAKEY YO OU UANY ANYWHERE WH ERE. .
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Upshift - December
1. Sidi Introduces All-New 2020 Atojo Sr Boots The Atojo is designed to be light, sleek and give the rider excellent bike control. When designing the Atojo, Sidi and their riders wanted to create a boot that was lighter in the upper but still offer the ankle protection and replaceable parts Sidi’s are known for. The Atojo has a dual ankle hinge, with one hinge above the ankle and one below. It has ankle support bracing inside the boot that is designed to prevent hyper-extension of the ankle, instep and Achilles tendon. 3 hyper-extension systems are built into the boot including an innovative system made with a replaceable insert on the front of the boot that allows a specific amount of tibia movement and freezes if bending is excessive. Rubber inserts along the suede and plastic inner shin provide grip on the bike. The sole is replaceable via 4 bolts. 9-time MXGP World Champion Antonio Cairoli, 2 time MX2 champion Jorge Prado, and long-time MXGP racer Alessandro Lupino worked with Sidi’s technicians to finalize every detail on the Atojo. These riders were so essential to the development of the boot Sidi named the boot ATOJO in recognition of them - A (Alessandro Lupino) – TO (Tony Cairoli) JO (Jorge Prado). MSRP: $599.99 Available March, 2020. www.motonation.com
504 / 505 Series Tire Made for soft to hard terrains, this combo tire offers exceptional traction, braking, stability, and control. ShinkoTireUSA.com
Upshift - December
2. FCP Engine Mounts FCP Racing engine mounts are designed and engineered to improve handling, cornering, traction and feel. Made out of high grade Titanium and Aircraft Aluminum it is the choice of top race teams and racers across the world. Available for current Honda, Husqvarna, Kawasaki, KTM, Suzuki and Yamaha 4-strokes. MSRP: $399.00 www.fcpracing.com
• Incredible handling improvement • Titanium Front Mounts much lighter than stock • Used by the top factory teams • Developed by top industry professionals • Increases front-end feel and traction
3. GoPro Hero8 Black HERO8 Black sends it big with next-level HyperSmooth 2.0 video stabilization—dramatically improved stabilization over HyperSmooth 1.0 (if you can believe that!). HyperSmooth 2.0 works in all resolutions and frame rates, features a new Boost mode and has in-app horizon leveling. Also new, TimeWarp 2.0 features automatic rate adjustment and tap-control speed ramping. HERO8 Black sports four digital lenses to easily select a field of view, improved audio with enhanced wind suppression, customizable mode presets and a lighter, frameless design featuring folding mounting fingers. MSRP: $399.99. www.gopro.com
OctanePress-2020AdventureCalendar Whether you love motorcycles or travel to remote places, this visually captivating calendar is sure to provide a full year of inspiration. $19.99
CLICKHERETOPURCHASE
ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTES RIDE, CLEAN AND SC1 YOUR RIDE TO KEEP IT WORKING AND LOOKING ITS BEST I RESTORES THAT FACTORY SHINE Made in the USA
MaximaUSA.com
Upshift - December
4. Wolfman Luggage Has New 2020 Arrivals! Wolfman Luggage is pleased to announce new arrivals for 2020! We have proudly revised, modernized and refreshed our entire line! Yep, our entire line is NEW! Starting with a blank slate can be a daunting undertaking, but Eric immediately connected his aesthetic vision, production knowledge, and product design with the latest Radio Frequency (RF)-welding technologies available. His vision was to continue the Wolfman DNA and create a product line that will be at the forefront of motorcycle luggage. As he had grown tired of liners plus rain covers to achieve waterproof sewn luggage, the RF-welded seams are waterproof, very robust, durable, and ideal for use in harshest of conditions. Utilizing all of his design and production prowess, the Wolfman 2020 line gives the rider a consistent watertight seal and our signature Wolfman silhouettes. We even refreshed our logo with a reflective yellow Wolf on every bag! Founded in 1992, Wolfman, a family-owned-and-operated company, is a world leader in motorcycle soft luggage; specializing in Adventure, Dual Sport, and Dirt bikes. Our legendary luggage is now 100% waterproof, made of the highest quality materials and manufacturing. Eric, the owner, designs and relentlessly tests each piece of Wolfman luggage. Our innovative designs and versatility allow each rider to configure the luggage to their needs. Front to back Wolfman has you covered from weekends to around the world. For the latest information check out our website for details on each of these 100% waterproof, RF-welded next gen designs for 2020 (available late winter)! Reach us at Wolfman Luggage at www.wolfmanluggage.com
790R SEATS NOW AVAILABLE
WWW.SEATCONCEPTS.COM
NEW SOFT LUGGAGE SYSTEM FOR THE YAMAHA TENERE 700
Upshift - December
5. Alpinestars Tech 7 Enduro Boots The Tech 7 Enduro boot features a specifically engineered, compound sole to provide Enduro riders superior durability, grip, feel and levels of structural rigidity. This CE certified boot promotes core stability and flex via a biomechanical pivot while offering excellent ankle protection. The boot chassis has been designed to give complete feel and optimized interaction with bike controls, while the innovative buckle system allows easy,precise closure. Upper constructed from innovative microfiber material that is flexible and abrasion resistant. Upper material is reinforced with PU for high levels of water-resistance and durability and improved weight-saving performance. Specifically designed compound sole provides ATV and Enduro riders superior durability, grip, feel and a high level of structural rigidity. The sole and footpeg insert are replaceable. MSRP: $369.95. www.alpinestars.com
THE RIGHT TOOLS Easily Access Your Valve Stems To Manage Your Motorcycle’s Tire Pressure
Pro Fill air chuck ™
Part No. 08-0602
UNIQUE DESIGN PROVIDES ADDED HAND CLEARANCE BETWEEN FILLER AND HOT BRAKE ROTORS
Pivoting angled head design
- New O-ring sealing system and thrust washer provides reliable airtight seal - New head design provides easier angle adjustment and keeps head oriented in its adjusted position during use - Stainless steel banjo pivot bolt provides durable performance - Billet aluminum construction for light weight and precise fit and function - 1/4 inch NPT female inlet allows use of common air hose couplings and fittings - Perfect complement for Motion Pro air gauges and compressed air systems - Lifetime limited warranty - Patented design V I E W A L L O F O U R T I R E T O O L S AT M O T I O N P R O . C O M
TUbliss is engineered to replace the oldest technology on your motorcycle–the inner tube. TUbliss revolutionary DUAL CHAMBER SYSTEM allows you to safely run much lower tire pressures for huge gains in traction, handling and protection. All this adds up to better results on race day and more fun every Sunday. “IF WE COULD GIVE IT SIX STARS WE WOULD.” “ WE’RE SOLD ON IT!” “MORE TRACTION & NO FLATS, WHAT MORE COULD YOU ASK FOR?”
TUBLISS.COM
THE NEW WAY TO
GET AWAY BREAK THROUGH BARRIERS INTO STUNNING NEW EXPERIENCES ON THE ALL-NEW SUZUKI V-STROM.
Meet the 2020 Suzuki V-STROM 1050, our most advanced V-STROM yet. Strike awe with new styling inspired by the iconic DR-Z800 Dakar Rally bike & DR-Big. Command higher peak V-twin power with abundant low-end torque. Feel more capable with Advanced Traction Control, Drive Mode Selector, and a new electronic Ride-by-Wire throttle system that delivers smooth yet precise engine response. Time to take adventure into your own hands and make for the exits. Your new V-STROM 1050 is waiting.
V-STROM 1050XT / ADVENTURE
V-STROM 1050XT
EXPERIENCE THE V-STROM AT SUZUKICYCLES.COM Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki trademarks or ®. © 2019 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.
Wide Open
Green River, Utah
Photo: Simon Cudby
2019
Wide Open
Northern Kenya
Photo: Tim Burke
2019
Wide Open
Hurricane Pass , Colorado
Photo: Olivier de Vaulx
2019
Wide Open
Big Sur, California
Photo: Olivier de Vaulx
2019
Wide Open
Rally du Maroc - Rider: Andrew Short
Photo: Marcin Kin
2019
Wide Open
Central, Arizona
Photo: Chad de Alva
2019
Wide Open
San Simeon, California
Photo: Olivier de Vaulx
2019
Wide Open
Sahara Desert - Southern Egypt
Photo: Tim Burke
2019
Wide Open
Moshi, Tanzania
Photo: Tim Burke
2019
Wide Open
Green River, Utah
Photo: Simon Cudby
2019
Wide Open
Hancock Pass , Colorado
Photo: Olivier de Vaulx
2019
Motorex Cross Ester-based en performance fo
s Power 4T is a fully synthetic PAO and ngine oil, the ultimate in quality and or your peace of mind.
motorexusa.com
PHOTOS: SIMON CUDBY
WORDS: STEPHEN W. CLARK
With incredible red rock formations, huge deserts and a great climate, it’s easy to understand why Southern Utah is a mecca for all types of outdoor recreation. Public land abounds in the state of Utah and with lots of motorized access, it’s also a great place to ride motorcycles. There’s no shortage of awesome riding; the quiet trails and incredible scenery keep us coming back to Green River. The Green River area is vast and relatively unknown compared to more popular destinations like Moab or St George, so it’s never busy. The riding terrain ranges from scenic gravel roads, to gnarly technical trails, to sand dunes, and everything in between. There are several riding zones around Green River and even after a few trips here, we feel like we are just scratching the surface of what it has to offer. The majority of the land in the area is managed by the BLM and the trails are well marked and mapped with both printed and electronic maps.
The zone south of I-70 and west of highway 191 contains a huge amount of riding. With sand washes, singletrack, slick rock and open sand there’s something for everyone. The White Wash Dunes are unique as they connect right into the slick rock creating some cool rock and sand formations. Brian’s trail takes you through some really cool red rock slot canyons before it connects you into the open slick rock of Mary’s trail. If you are looking to put on some miles you can connect all these trails from the town of Green River southeast all the way over towards the Moab area. Just be careful as big bikes can be a bit of a handful in the soft sand. On smaller bikes the flowy single track Enduro Loops are also a really good time.
West of Green River and in the zone north of I-70 and west of 191 is the San Rafael Swell. This area offers some of the most pristine and epic scenery we have ever accessed on motorized trails. It’s a huge area with some really fun wider trails and graded roads. The trails in the Dutchman Arch area take you through Sids Mountain Wilderness Study with some fantastic sand washes and rocky trails. On the north end of Sids Mountain is a scenic overlook over the Little Grand Canyon that is definitely worth checking out. Some of the land here is protected so it’s really important to know what land you are on and as always stay on the trails at all times. Distances are big and it’s super remote here so it’s important to have plenty of gas. South of I-70 and west of Highway 24 is another huge area with trails that will take you south towards Goblin Valley and the Hanksville area. This is home to the famous Five Miles of Hell trail that is widely regarded as one of the most technical trails around.
It gets pretty hot in Green River in the summer and snow isn’t unheard of in the winter, so the best riding weather is in the spring or fall. For us in the north it’s typically either our first or last ride of the year, so while escaping the snow at home, the milder temperatures of the desert always feels great. Highs in the spring or fall are in the 60’s and 70’s but beware as temperatures do drop rapidly when the sun sets. If you plan to be out after dark bring extra layers.
Located in east central Utah on I-70 the town of Green River has a population of around a thousand people. It’s a small highway town with a history of railroad, mining, and military industries that have come and gone over the years. These days, the main industry is melon farming; the business that I-70 brings with travelers stopping in for food, fuel, repairs and lodging. There’s not much in the town itself but you can find a great meal at Tamarisk, a decent room at one of the hotels, and everything you need to recharge for another day on the bikes. There are no bike shops in town. With the nearest one being 60 miles away in either Price or Moab, it’s a good idea to bring spares. When winter temperatures push us south and we need some throttle therapy, Green River has become one of our favorite riding areas. Whether you are planning an ADV route through the area or hauling bikes to a base camp for a few days of riding, it is absolutely worth checking out. The riding is fantastic, you will likely have the place to yourself and to top it off it’s a slightly shorter drive than Moab from both Salt Lake and Denver. For more information on Green River visit: https://www.visitutah.com/places-to-go/cities-and-towns/green-river/ https://www.blm.gov/office/moab-field-office https://www.blm.gov/office/price-field-office https://ridebdr.com/utbdr/
BMW Motorrad
TFT Display with Connectivity System
Ride Modes Pro with the Dynamic and Enduro functions.
ONE OBSTACLE. A THOUSAND OPPORTUNITIES. THE NEW BMW F 850 GS.
Find your limits – then surpass them. The F 850 GS’s available Ride Modes Pro optimizes performance, customizes throttle response, traction control, power delivery and ABS, so you can go forth and discover new paths. The TFT Display lets you connect your smartphone to the F 850 GS via Bluetooth and use the multi-controller to activate a wide range of functions, from navigation to media, so you’re perfectly equipped to discover the undiscovered. Visit www.BMWMotorcycles.com to see latest offers.
MAKE LIFE A RIDE. ®2019 BMW Motorrad USA, a division of BMW North America, LLC. The BMW name and logo are registered trademarks.
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY OLIVIER DE VAULX
A few days on the Colorado BDR is a guarantee that you will experience great riding in the most beautiful sceneries, deal with elevation changes and adverse weather, as well as meet friendly riders on the technical trails. It’s the thrill of a real adventure with your favorite plated enduro! Browsing the RideBDR website, you can’t help but start dreaming about your next trip. With 8 connected routes in the west and 2 on the east coast, there are enough options for everybody. But if the detailed maps and the free GPS tracks push you to click on the download button after giving a welcome donation, you might wonder if your bike and your riding skills will fit the boxes for a successful adventure. SETTING UP Since not everybody wants to risk an expensive and heavy adventure bike on the trails, we decided to try the CO BDR with two small displacement bikes. The Honda CRF450L is the new trend in the dual-sport community; it was the perfect opportunity to put its ability to the test for a real-world adventure. Being 43 percent lighter than a more powerful Africa Twin, the 450 should shine in the most technical sections. Out of the box, the engine is detuned to endure long stretches on the highway, and consequently has a service interval at 20,000 between piston checks. There’s not much needed besides switching the small titanium tank for an IMS 3 gallon fuel tank. Additionally, we replaced the stock seat with a wider and more comfortable Seat Concepts cushion, connected a Trail Tech Voyager Pro GPS to the battery, and mounted a pair of Dunlop D606. We then strapped our MoskoMoto Reckless 40L bags on the rear fender, packed tools, spare tubes, extra gear, toothbrush, photo equipment, and we were ready to go.
TRACKYOUR BUDDIES
SNOW KIT TRAILTECH.NET
#RIDETRAILTECH
HEADING UP NORTH In Dolores, where we meet Turu and his HVA 701 loaded with the same Mosko bags, we start the 750 mile-long ride with high expectations. The day begins on the pavement, which makes for a nice warm-up, with little to no vibration on the CRFs at a cruising speed of 65mph. The vents on our Alpinestars SM10 helmets do a good job of maintaining a cool airflow around our heads, while the outside temperature is way past 90 degrees. The first gravel roads allow us to take some elevation, and we quickly reach Telluride with cooler temperatures. We could have stopped here and enjoyed the great vibes of this small town, but there are way too many tourists and still a few hours of daylight to try to reach the iconic Ophir Pass before the night. The infamous scree on the mountainside is challenging for ADV riders, but there’s nothing to fear on the nimble CRF450L. Standing up and staying mobile on the bike, it’s easy to keep the momentum and the traction over the rolling rocks. From there, it’s just an easy downhill to the small and off-roadfriendly town of Ouray. The next day will prove to be even more exciting. The route brings us over many passes, and the trails over 12,000 ft are all but smooth: hard pack dirt with bumps and ruts, rocks and boulders and drop-offs; the ride gets technical. Once again, being on a small bike helps, and we fly over the obstacles, passing jeeps and side-by-sides with ease. We still take the time for long stops at Corkscrew Pass, Hurricane Pass, California Pass, and Cinnamon Pass. There, the sceneries are so incredible that you lose track of time while admiring the amazing views of the colorful summits. Going down to Lake City, following the lake San Cristobal’s shore, it’s time to refuel, before enjoying the large fire roads heading to Buena Vista. The COBDR could stop here, we wouldn’t be disappointed! But there’s still plenty of great riding to come. The next morning starts on a fun note as the route goes into an OHV park. Jumps, whoops, and sandy berms bring back memories of our motocross days. We roll up the Alpinestars jackets in the MoskoMoto bags and ride in our jerseys in full racing mode.
After this exhilarating moment, it’s time to calm down. With the lower elevation, what the countryside lacks in spectacular summits it gains in diversity. The ambiance changes every ten miles while we go through red canyons, forests, vast plains, rolling hills, on gravel roads, or small double-tracks. Cruising at a good speed, one eye on the GPS and the other on the cattle in open range, we enjoy this easy part of the ride, knowing that we’ll soon go back in the mountains. The challenging climb to Hancock Pass proves us right. The steep grade, with round river rocks spread everywhere, makes it difficult to keep the traction, and choosing the best lines becomes a survival instinct. Luckily, the CRF450L stands proudly to his motocross DNA and is up to the task, as well as the heavier but still capable HVA 701. We reach the summit without crashing and with the satisfaction of having chosen the best kind of motorcycles. That’s definitely not a trail for big adventure bikes, and even if an expert rider could have done it, we would definitely recommend to most people to find a way around, especially knowing that the other side of the mountain is even worse! The rocky trail at the summit becomes some sort of river bed suddenly, with stones of all sizes and shapes trying to make us fall. We feel like racers trying to survive a stage of the Erzberg rodeo! The best things come to an end, and the downhill finally ends before getting any arm pump.
There’s still a lot to handle on this afternoon and we climb up to Hagerman Pass, on another rocky trail, to cross the Continental Divide at 11,980 ft. Arriving at Gypsum after sunset, we take dinner in no time and just fall asleep. The fourth day is more mellow, but not less beautiful, with incredible colors on the hills and nice double-track before reaching Steamboat Springs. There’s a bit more pavement on this section, but what’s wrong with an easy day once in a while?
ENJOYING LOCAL HOSPITALITY Remember the oil interval change of 600 miles that was talked at length on every forum when the CRF450L was launched? That’s the one we need to care about right now since we passed this recommended distance yesterday. Six hundred miles might not be a problem for a weekend warrior, but on such a long ride, it’s a duty you can’t delay. The best thing about entering a moto store to buy oil is that you’re most likely to meet other riders. Once again, it worked, as we started a long conversation with Emmanuelle, a French motorcyclist living in town. One thing leading to another, we’re invited the next day to ride some local single-tracks with her husband, Brad. In the morning, after removing the bags from the bikes, we meet him at his company’s shop. He had set up a pan on the ground so we can do our oil change. Since we forgot our quarts of oil in our bags at the hotel, we knock at the door of the next garage, where an old mechanic just pumps the precious liquid from a big barrel. Can’t be cooler than that! Removing the skid plates, the main drain and pouring oil in the CRFs engines doesn’t take long, and after cleaning some drops on the ground, we’re ready to go explore. The local tracks share the same characteristics as some of the most technical trails we encountered so far; they are rocky, dusty, with very little traction and super steep grades. On his KTM 450 EXC perfectly set up for these specific conditions, Brad leads and guides us for a long and fun exploration of Steamboat Spring’s backcountry. The double track finally morphs into a very narrow single track, where fallen logs are cut with just enough room for the footpegs to sneak in. One inch out of the line, and you can say goodbye to your ankle! Out of the woods and after a few river crossings, a beer at the famous Clark Store gives everybody time to share stories about motorcycle trips. Brad tells us about his trips to Chile, Australia and Vietnam. The conversation is captivating, and without any of us noticing, the night is here. It’s still too early to part ways, and we end up at Emmanuelle and Brad’s house for a BBQ. This day couldn’t have been better, and it proves, once again, how easily a motorcyclist traveler can make friends and connections when riding alone or within a small group.
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DISCOVER MORE AT ALPINESTARS.COM/SM8HELMET DISCOVER MORE AT ALPINESTARS.COM/SM8HELMET
THE LONG WAY BACK Going back to Dolores where we left our pick-up truck, can be done two ways: Via the highway, which can be achieved in 7 hours, or via backcountry roads, which would take 2 to 3 days. Since GPS Kevin already has a track available for this alternate way back, we upload it on our GPS and take the long way home. The weather is menacing, with storms almost everywhere, but our route magically goes around each of them, avoiding all the showers we can see on the horizon. With an overcast sky, we encounter little to no traffic on these dirt roads, and it’s easy to keep a high average speed. Still, we have to remind ourselves to ride on the right in order to reduce the risk of a head-on collision. If hawks and squirrels which cross our path are not harmful, deer don’t mind the traffic and can cross anytime. Riding fast and safe requires some riding skills but also acute vision to check on both sides of the road for any sign of wildlife! After a good night at Meeker, where we enjoy a nice historic hotel and some of the best Paris-like croissants ever at the White River Bakery, we head toward Crested Butte, Gunnison, and Dolores. Again, there’s some pavement, but the countryside is magnificent and the hours fly, our CRFs accumulating miles with ease. Sure thing, there’s no fairing, but it’s hot out there and even with the vents on our Alpinestars jackets and pants, some wind is welcomed!
A PERFECT DESTINATION After one full week on the trails, the ride is already over. It’s time to load the bikes on the truck and go back home, leaving beautiful Colorado behind us. As the quiet F-150 cruises on the freeway, we can’t help but talk again and again about this last week. The memories captured from the top of the mountains, the freedom experienced on the endless trails are vivid and we can’t wait to go back to Colorado to explore more of its natural wonders. After the passes around Ouray (see Upshift issue 38) and this epic BDR, we can definitely give Colorado a five star award! As for the bikes, we’re glad we picked up small dual-sports motorcycles. This whole adventure wouldn’t have been as fun with heavier bikes, especially in the most technical sections. Since we don’t mind giving up a couple miles per hour on the highway, it seems that the lighter the bike, the greater the fun! BIG THANKS : Thanks to Brad and Emmanuelle for their kindness. To Christophe Pierrat and Turu Illgen for sharing this epic adventure and helping with the pictures. Thumbs up to: Honda USA for the loan of two CRF450Ls; Alpinestars for the Andes Pro gear and the SM10 helmets; Ride 100% for the new Armega goggles; Trail Tech for the GPS Voyager Pro with Buddy tracking; Seat Concepts for the ultra-comfortable seats; IMS for the mandatory 3 gallon tanks; Acerbis for the strong X-Factor handguards; MoskoMoto for the waterproof-dustproof Reckless 40L bags; and Dunlop for the long-lasting D606 DOT tires.
WELCOME TO THE TEAM :: CODY WEBB
photos by @jenjophoto
300 SC FACTORY
@shercousa_official
www.shercousa.com
TESTED
BY SEiJI ISHII
Bolt I t On Mo t orc ycl e Re s t rain t S y s t em An easily removable and reconfigurable motorcycle restraint system for vans and trailers Tying down motorcycles in vans and trailers usually involves a spider’s web of tie-downs, creative angling of bikes and bars, and blind trust that it all stays tight while bouncing down the road. Many riders and their families have other uses for the vehicle, making permanently mounted anchoring systems problematic. Bolt It On is a modular and removable motorcycle restraint system designed and built in Paso Robles, CA. The system provides solid wheel chocks and tie-down anchoring points that can be easily reconfigured or removed from the vehicle without tools. We’ve been testing units in both the Upshift Online van and my van, both Ford Transits. Construction and materials Bolt It On utilizes incredibly durable materials; laser-cut high-grade alloy steel, machined steel hardware, and powder coating. A 1- 3/4 “ square tube crossbar, with the length that best fits the application, and two triangular legs act as the base of the system. J-hooks and hand knobs secure this base to the floor of the van or trailer. The legs, chocks, and tie-down points can be affixed at any point along this drilled crossbar through spring-loaded pins. Bolt It On offers standard wheel chocks, roll-on chocks, sportbike chocks, Harley/cruiser chocks, and a combination dirt bike/bicycle chock. They also offer offset chocks and angled chocks to get the most out of the available width. The Bolt It On system is heavy-duty! Each component has considerable heft and all weld beads are substantial and consistent. The black powder coating is thick and even. There are no corners cut for cost savings that I can see. The choice of materials and construction quality means that this system is not light. A two-bike system with standard chocks weighs in at 35 pounds, 55 pounds with roll-on chocks. Bolt It On in use Installing the Bolt It On system was a breeze. In my VanDoIt conversion, I have 80/20 tracks in the floor so establishing the two anchor points for the base of the system was as simple as installing eye bolts into the tracks by hand. After sliding on three wheel chocks, two outside tie-down anchors, and the legs to the crossbar, I inserted the J-hooks into the eye bolts and hand tightened the knobs to secure the entire system to the floor of the van. I have two Bolt It On roll-on wheel chocks; I know of no easier way to load and secure bikes. Even with heavy ADV models, it was easy to roll the front wheel over the swiveling plate which locked the wheel to support the bike handsfree. This roll-up chock made it as easy as possible to affix and tension the tie downs and made the entire process safer for both bike and rider. The roll-up chocks are adjustable to accommodate tires from 14 inches to 30 inches in diameter. I installed a Bicycle/Dirt Bike Pro Wheel Chock in between the two roll-up chocks. This dual-purpose chock combines a “standard” dirt bike chock with an arm that will secure a bicycle wheel. I live a few miles down a rocky, rough dirt road. All motorcycles, including heavier ADV bikes, have never worked loose despite everything else in the van getting kicked around. For the first time, I didn’t worry about precious two-wheeled cargo working loose, rubbing against each other, or falling while driving the roughest sections of my dirt road. When plans called for camping with multiple people in my van, removing the entire Bolt It On system was a simple, tool-free, 5-minute affair. Same goes for the multiple times I moved the system forward or backward in the van, or moving the position or number of wheel chocks.
Conclusions If security of your beloved machines and durability are at the top of the list, the Bolt It On system is a contender. The modularity that makes removing or reconfiguring the system quick and easy adds to the usability of both the vehicle and the Bolt It On system. The Bolt It On system is heavy but the trade-off is incredible durability. The heavy-duty nature of each component practically begs for abuse and promises extremely long life. But here is the cost. A one dirt bike system starts at $330 and prices increase from there. A two bike system with two roll-on chocks and a 67-inch crossbar (best fit for Ford Transits and Mercedes Sprinters) is $620. But, again, there are trade-offs, and the bike security, ease of use, and modularity of the Bolt It On system are undeniable advantages. Bolt It On is a durable, flexible, secure, and a well built and engineered motorcycle restraint system. For those with the means, this system is a premier choice for vans and trailers. www.boltiton.com
TESTED
RE V’I T ! E XPEDI T ION H2O BOO T S When it comes to protective equipment, I sure do like to stack the odds in my favor. In my opinion, motorcycle boots are protective equipment. The vast majority would likely agree, but I have had more than a couple of debates on the topic. I look to boots second in priority only to a high quality, properly fitted helmet. Busted up feet and ankles can affect you for life and I intend to avoid that if possible. Coming from a more motocross oriented background, I tend to gravitate to motocross style boots like the Alpinestars Tech series for more than just motocross. I have leaned on these boots for adventure riding as well. I get asked all the time about walking comfort, weight, waterproofing, etc. I simply don’t prioritize those things over protection, especially riding bikes that come in well over 500 pounds. Sure it would be nice to not look like a bow legged ex bronc rider hobbling into the gas station, but for me, that’s the nice thing about Adventure riding. Just bring more appropriate footwear with you for your destination. Boots have made some significant strides over the last decade or so. We have come a long way in improving both comfort and protection. Better design. New materials. Better manufacturing techniques. More data. But is there a boot that can hit the mark across all of the variables we are looking for in an offroad-capable adventure touring boot? The new Expedition H2O from Rev’It! just might be approaching unicorn status. The first thing I noticed was what was missing: No buckles. Just a clean, sleek exterior of leather, rubber and plastic armor. When pulling open the large shin panel, the BOA Closure System comes out of hiding. This is a very nice addition in my opinion. I have had great experiences with BOA over the years and no buckles, creating pinch points and hot spots, is a huge advantage. Just push in the knob and rotate until the fit is just right. Next, I noticed the substantial hinge system at the ankle. This is the core of the Rev’It! Dynamic Fit System. Connecting the footbed and heel cup to the boot’s upper with a hinged exoskeleton of rigid components makes the boot highly impact resistant and will help mitigate hyperextension of the ankle as well. Hinged ankles are not new in offroad boots. But what is new is how comfortable this boot is and that it’s waterproof. The waterproof breathability of the Expedition H2O is handled by Hydratex® laminated directly to the boot’s outer shell. Rev’It! also invested in a Vibram sole just for this boot. Thought went into footpegs and the wear they can induce while also providing tread suitable for the varied surfaces found in the backcountry. Whether walking down the trail a piece or digging in to lift a heavy bike off of the ground, the soles of the Expedition H2O were not an afterthought, which I can appreciate. After several thousand miles in them touring and riding single track on dualsports, these boots have been holding up incredibly well. The level of comfort combined with the confidence in the protection has me pretty well hooked. The only real gripes I have with the Expedition H2O is that they can be a bit difficult to get off, especially if hot and sweaty. A little lip on the heel to aid in removing the boots would be appreciated. Lastly, these are expensive boots. At $769 USD, these are likely the most expensive adventure boots on the market. Looking closer at the details: the stitching, the bonded seams, the moldings, the quality of the leather and more all add up. This is a very well made pair of boots. While expensive, I would argue that you are getting what you pay for. www.revitsport.com
TESTED
BY CHAD DE ALVA
TRAIL TECH VOYAGER PRO Trail Tech’s Voyager Pro is an absolute powerhouse of a powersports computer. From backcountry mornings on a snowbike to epic multiday dual-sport rides and ADV-odysseys, the Voyager Pro can be configured to tell you everything you need to know. With it, you can monitor your machine’s vitals, do everything a standalone GPS can, keep track of your riding group, and so much more. Like any other gadget that’s packed full of features and functions, getting the most out of it takes some reading and understanding, and of course a good measure of using the device and spending time with it. After nearly a year of using one on a couple of my bikes I’ve definitely picked up a few things along they way that were quite helpful. Here’s my list of tips and tricks to get the most out of your Trail Tech Voyager Pro. Protect That Screen: Ride off-road and things get dirty – it’s just part of the game. The problem with getting electronics dirty is that all of that fine dust that collects on your device’s display makes a perfect abrasive when you put your finger on the display and start scrolling around. So before you take your Voyager Pro out for your next ride, take a few minutes and cut out a custom, flexible screen protector for the VP’s easy-to-scratch screen. I’ve had good luck using the SPIGEN brand of flexible screen protectors, and their screen protectors that are sized for the Samsung Galaxy Note 10 are plenty large enough to cover the Voyager Pro’s screen. Any brand of flexible protector will work, just make sure it’s big enough to cover the entire screen.
If you’re setting up a new VP, take the factory screen protector off and stick it on the flexible screen protector you’re going to cut to fit for an easy to follow template. If you’ve already removed your factory screen protector, you can make a template out of a piece of paper that you can then trace on to your new screen protector, or just start trimming and test-fitting your new screen protector. Take the time to make yours fit well and you’ll have a screen protector that will last quite a while. This is absolutely worth doing – I’ve seen more than one VP screen out in the wild that’s hard to read in a few spots because it’s become so scratched up from getting touched with a dirty gloved finger. Use Your Bike’s Stock Sensors: The VP can monitor all kinds of bike vitals, like battery voltage, temperatures and wheel speed if you take the time to set up and install the sensors. Trail Tech is nice enough to supply a new magnetically-triggered wheel speed sensor with the VP, but you can make the stock sensor on many European bikes work by making a simple adapter. This saves you from having to cut out your stock sensor and install the Trail Tech one. As long as your stock wheel speed sensor uses a magnet to trigger the switch mounted on your brake caliper, you can make a Male-to-Male 2-pin JWPF adapter to plug your stock wheel speed sensor into your VP’s dock. You can pick up the connectors at your local dealer, or you can grab them from a number of places online. Use a small piece of wire and pin-out the two new connectors, plug everything in, and you’re good to go.
TESTED: TRAIL TECH VOYAGER PRO
Move It Around: The Voyager Pro is such a great tool to have on your bike, that you’ll want to use it on every bike or compatible powersports toy you own. Trail Tech sells extra docks and sensors, so you can set up each machine individually and simply move the VP from vehicle to vehicle. If you’re using your VP to track mileage (odometer) or service intervals (hours), make sure you’re logging each vehicle’s data in an Excel sheet or some kind of log book. You can reset the hour meter and odometer each time you move the VP, and then add that ride’s total to your running tally for each vehicle. The rumor mill has indicated that Trail Tech is working on adding machine profiles that will enable the VP to store information for each vehicle you set up and configure – so here’s hoping they make that a feature soon. Pan Lock: The mapping capabilities on the Voyager Pro make it a complete replacement for a standalone GPS unit, and the touch screen makes interfacing with the device a really easy to use experience that’s better than using many button-controlled GPS devices. I like to have the VP set up to keep the map view following me while I’m moving, but I also like to be able to scroll around the map and check out the surrounding area or scout a road when I’m stopped. Out of the box, the VP is locked onto your position so you cannot scroll around, but there’s a setting that makes toggling between auto-scroll and free look just a press away. In the Map View screen, tap the three dots, then tap options. Find the PAN-LOCK option and turn it off. Now back out of the menu to the main map view screen. To turn on auto-scroll (your position will stay in the center of the map), tap the target icon so that a dot shows up in the middle of the target. If you want to have a look around, tap the icon so that the dot in the middle disappears, and then scroll around. To re-engage auto scrolling, simply tap the target icon again so that the dot shows up in the middle.
Map Updates: One of the great things about the VP is that the maps and firmware can be updated by the user, so as roads and trails change in real life, you can update your map whenever Trail Tech releases an update. To procure the latest maps and firmware, head over to the Trail Tech store where you can download the newest version of the USA maps and firmware, or purchase other maps for the rest of the world if you’re traveling abroad. You’ll need a micro SD card to perform this update and for the cost, I’d recommend picking up a 64GB card, which can typically be found for less than $20 from a reputable manufacture like SanDisk. A Micro SD card will also let you record and import tracks and waypoints, so it’s definitely worth picking one up to be able to use some of the best features of the VP. Lock It Down: Wondering what that little allen key that came in the VP box is for? That allen key allows you to turn a small set screw built into the VP’s dock into place that effectively locks the VP to its dock. This is a great way to keep the honest people honest, and prevent your VP from walking away while your vehicle is parked someplace. It’s important to know that if someone is determined enough, they can yank the VP dock off of the rubber grommets on the four screws that mount the VP dock to your vehicle, but the idea is to keep casual bad-guys at bay. If someone wants your stuff bad enough, they’re going to figure out a way to get it. In use, however, the set screw passed the “park your bike someplace and go get a beer and watch to see who tries to take it” test. Just remember to have that allen key with you when you need to get your VP off of its dock. Trail Tech has a great product in the Voyager Pro, and it has proven to be a must-have farkle on my bikes. From being able to keep an eye on the all-important engine temperature while riding a snowbike to following a complex layout of waypoints and tracks on multi-day rides, the Voyager Pro does absolutely everything I need in one device. Given what one of these units costs, it’s a no-brainer to spend a few minutes of your time and a few extra bucks to pick up a couple of screen protectors and an SD card. These little extra steps will help you get the most out of the VP and keep it protected and updated in the years to come. A device with this much capability definitely has a bit of a learning curve and a bit of setup involved. But if you take a few minutes to do the things mentioned above, you’ll find that you have a very powerful and capable device on your vehicle that can help you have a better ride in a variety of ways. www.trailtech.net
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TEXAS TORNADO B O O T
C A M P
In 2003, then-reigning FIM World Superbike champion Colin Edwards returned to his home state of Texas and set his sights on a 20-acre piece of land, located about an hour’s drive north of Houston. Colin had a simple plan in mind for his little piece of Southeastern Texas: “Really I just wanted a place for my buddies and I to be able to ride dirt bikes, shoot guns and drink beer,” Colin told me as he retrieved an ice-cold Bud Light from the wooden cooler on the porch of the Tornado Saloon & Hotel - a 5,000 square foot building that appears as if it was plucked right off the movie set of The Good, the Bad and the Ugly, and is named after the moniker that Edwards earned during his professional road racing career: “The Texas Tornado.” Bordering the Saloon on one side is a large shop, (a stable if you will) containing 75 or so Yamaha TTR dirt bikes, built and equipped specifically for use on a flat track. It doesn’t take much looking around to realize that this chunk of land has come a long way since its humble early-2000’s beginnings as a throttle twistin’, gun shootin’ and beer drinkin’ spot, although more than 15 years later, those are still the exact activities that this Texas facility serves to facilitate.
Words and Photos by Blake Draguesku
The Texas Tornado Boot Camp is billed as “a one-stop-shop for riders of all skill levels to build, practice and polish their motorcycle handling skills in a fun environment with top of the line equipment, at the finest facility around.” Arriving at the camp on Friday afternoon with my friend Patrick Kelly, we intended to find out if this tall claim held water, and we had the means to do so. Before that day, Pat had never ridden a dirt bike in his life; his motorcycle riding experience comprised of 100% onroad miles. In contrast, the vast majority of my own riding experience has been built on dirt. This unique combination of riding backgrounds would allow us to evaluate the benefits of the Texas Tornado Boot Camp
TEXAS TORNADO BOOT CAMP
from two opposite ends of the rider spectrum. Upon arrival, riders receive a gear bag tagged with their name. The bag contains a complete kit of Fly Racing gear, a pair of Sidi boots, an Arai helmet and a Leatt neck brace for the rider to use for the duration of the camp. One has the option to bring their own gear if they elect to do so (which I did, since I drove in from my home in Houston). The next order of business is to select a Yamaha TTR for the weekend. With both TTR-230’s and TTR-125’s to choose from, Pat and I each picked out TTR-125’s that looked hot to trot in order to make things as interesting as possible during the days ahead. After a riders’ meeting that lays out the camp rules and regulations, riders are set loose onto the main track so that they may familiarize themselves with their machines. The main track is a weaving TT-style flat track circuit that sits underneath a 150’ by 300’ canopy, which kindly shields you from the Texas sun as you turn laps on the hard-packed, red clay surface. Behind the main track is the “Open TT Course” - a larger, uncovered flat track separated from the main track by a sudden change in elevation that makes for some interesting riding when the two courses are linked together. Right beside the Open TT course sits yet another track - a proper 1/8th-mile oval flat track with an infield circuit tucked inside. On each afternoon of the 4-day Boot Camp comes the Superpole race, during which the three flat tracks are linked into one massive track. Riders are given the green light one at a time so that they may attempt to set the fastest lap time they are capable of, and size up their skills against other riders.
On Day 1, the first Superpole came quickly. Pat and I (having arrived fashionably late) barely had time to finish putting on our gear before the Boot Camp instructors blew an air horn, signaling for the riders to line up by the Superpole starting line. I volunteered myself towards the front of the queue and waited for the green flag, wielded by Colin Edwards himself, to drop. Launching the modified TTR-125 elicits a surprisingly good sound from the Akrapovic exhaust as the flat-track rear tire struggles to put down power through first and second gear. Each turn of the Superpole course forces you to engage in a balancing act. You attempt to find a sweet spot somewhere between low-siding, high-siding, and going too damn slow to impress the 20 sets of eyes that track you around the racecourse during your attempt. Colin watches your with unimpeachable accuracy before reading out your lap time to the group, writing it on a magnetic strip and slapping it up on the Superpole time board. My lap time of 1:28.82 would go unbested on that first day, followed closely by Paul Riffle with a time of 1:28.94 and David Mongrain with a time of 1:29.06. Pat cleared his first Superpole lap with a time of 1:46.16, which was remarkably quick considering that this time was set during his first 10 minutes in the saddle of a dirt bike. The Superpole event is followed every day by a free-riding period, then dinner. The Boot Camp prides itself on providing attendees with some seriously tasty southern cuisine. A heaping mound of brisket, coleslaw, and mac & cheese certainly hits the spot after a long day spent riding in the Texas heat. Wash it all down with a number of cold beers, and you soon find yourself playing pool and shooting the shit with your newly-made friends, including the Texas Tornado himself. There are many things about the Texas Tornado Boot Camp that help to make it a one-of-a-kind experience, not the least of which is the shooting competition that takes place on Day 3. Instructors set up a multi-firearm, multi-target circuit involving two shotguns, two handguns, and one scoped rifle. Upon shouting, “PULL!� Colin clicks his stopwatch, and four clays are slung up into the air. Each competitor (hopefully) shoots them out of the sky before quickly moving on to a pump-action shotgun and attempting to shoot two more flying targets and two ground targets. Up next is a 9mm pistol paired with an array of rotating steel targets, and then a .45 caliber pistol paired with a row of steel, ground-hinged targets that flop to the ground as they are struck. The competitor then runs about 50 yards and dives under a fence before shouldering a .308 bolt-action rifle and sending a round 300 yards downrange into a round, steel target. Your time and score are recorded, with shooting competition winners announced on the final day of the camp.
TEXAS TORNADO BOOT CAMP
front wheel with an eagle eye as you roll across the finish line and clicks his stopwatch
TEXAS TORNADO BOOT CAMP
TEXAS TORNADO BOOT CAMP
For a rider looking to improve their skill set, the TTBC is an extremely valuable experience. On each day, lead instructor Joe Prussiano, a 3-time Pikes Peak International Hill Climb champion in the 450 Pro class, coaches riders through a series of different drills. Instructors Cory West and Shea Fouchek, both very experienced and multi-disciplined racers, coach riders on a group and individual level. From one-handed fast laps that serve to dial in balance and body positioning to drills focused on slide control while transitioning from braking to throttle, the carefully thought out exercises led by the Instructor team at TTBC are instrumental in improving one’s riding ability regardless if they are a sport biker or singletrack rider. The skills built at TTBC translate well into every discipline of motorcycling. As each of us became more learned in the art of flat track riding, Superpole lap times plummeted, and the racing between us became more and more exciting. On every afternoon, David Mongrain and I found ourselves battling it out for first place, consistently clocking lap times within a quarter second of each other. I finished out the Superpole series with a race finish record of 1-2-1-2, while David finished second overall with a 3-1-2-1. It doesn’t get much closer or more fun than that. Pat’s riding ability improved at an astounding rate during the course of the Boot Camp, eventually allowing him to shave more than 15 seconds off of his initial lap time. By the end of Day 4, he was sliding out of turns with a cool and collected confidence that would make you think he had years of dirt riding experience under his belt. I, too, felt the benefits of working with the all-star instructor team at TTBC. I was pushing my braking zones farther, rolling on the throttle sooner, and carrying much more speed through every sector of the race track. On Sunday afternoon, Pat and I turned a few final laps out on the track before parking our trusty 125’s back in the stable, bidding farewell to our new friends, and driving away from the Texas Tornado Boot Camp. We headed south from that 20-acre piece of land as better riders, better shooters, and arguably, better Texans.
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GRAVEL-T is a range of 100% waterproof soft bags, geared towards off-road and RTW use. The GRT709 Canyon soft panniers are the perfect alternative to hard side cases, as they offer 35 liter capacity each and they can be locked to their universal mounting plates. The provided mounts adapt to most side cases racks available on the market, although they work in perfect combination with the ones made by GIVI. • 100% waterproof • 35 liter capacity each • Lockable to their plates • Integrated M.O.L.L.E. system
Words and Photos by Olivier de Vaulx
Whether you live in the Bay Area or congested Los Angeles, you might want to escape the stressful urban environment during a peaceful weekend on backcountry roads. The goal is to free the mind with some easy miles under warm weather, but also to enjoy magnificent sceneries and good food. With all these parameters in hand, a quick look at the map of California made one itinerary stand out right away. A trip from Paso Robles, in wine country, to Big Sur, on the Pacific Coast, would check all the boxes. Our 2019 Africa Twin DCT, outfitted with Cyclops LEDs, Outback Motortek crash bars, ACD Racing skid plate, Trail Tech Voyager Pro GPS, and Kriega bags, is quickly called upon duty and starts the journey to Paso Robles from Los Angeles. With only thirty thousand residents, Paso Robles is a small town with a big reputation among wine connoisseurs. Restaurants with great menus are plentiful, accommodations are charming, and it’s easy to find a place to rest and refuel the body before the real start of the ride. Waking up before the sunrise feels difficult, but the first miles through the yellow and red vineyards illuminated by the nascent light are rewarding. After crossing the dam on Nacimiento Lake, the road takes some elevation, giving an unlimited view of the rolling hills. There’s no traffic, and if it wasn’t for some hawks circling the bike during photo stops, it would be totally quiet. The route on our GPS brings us to a fire road, crossing a nice forest. A deer jumps just in front of the twin and disappears in between the trees. Close call! But the journey on dirt will stop here, as two big signs forbidding visitors to “trespass” on Hidden Valley Ranch private property are confiscating a great deal of fire road through the forest. With no farming operation in sight, it’s hard to understand the need to refuse the way of going through this mainly unmanaged land. A sign preventing to go off the trail would be legitimate, but a full closure seems abusive.
Back on the pavement on an alternate route, it’s fun to notice that even the army shows more moderation in allowing thru traffic across Fort Hunter Liggett. The tank at the entrance might be intimidating, but the road itself is just beautiful, with endless corners, and fall colors shining under a perfectly blue sky. A few miles after the camp, two OHV trails are open to the public, giving miles of dirt to play with the CRF1000 and great views of the sea in the distance. Since the winter days are short, it’s soon time to go back on the road to start the incredible downhill toward Highway 1 and the coast. It’s hard to decide between going fast on the perfect pavement of this narrow winding road, leaning the bike as much as possible, or to slow down to soak up the incredible scenery. A few corners above the ocean, the sunset’s golden light paints the rocky cliff of the coast, making it look like a painting from the 16th century and a mandatory stop. Going down to the highway is like going back to civilization. The night settles quickly, and the coast disappears in the darkness, only cut sharp by the powerful Cyclops LEDs. The famous Old Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey is a good place to grab seafood and some energy.
The fog is up to its reputation, and the next morning starts under wet conditions, which disappear like magic just when crossing the most iconic bridges of the coast. From here, it’s possible to skip part of the pavement to enjoy more dirt time on the Coast Rd. This fire road is also private but open to traffic, proof that it’s possible for landowners to offer this option, and allows a really pleasant ride with a mix of hilltop and redwood forest. Yet this fun dirt road is a unique exception since all the other trails along the coast are closed by gates. The rest of the trip will, therefore, be made on the pavement, with gusty winds but endless postcard-like views. There are gas stations every twenty miles or so, which is good news in such remote places! To avoid being stuck in the heavy traffic building up around Santa Barbara, the best option is to divert on Highway 46, climbing back to Paso Robles on a fun road with plenty of switchbacks. The loop is closed, and it will take weeks for the memories of this colorful trip to fade. Then, it will be time to ride again.
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