Upshift Issue 43 - March 2020 by UPSHIFT

Issue 43

March 2020

Issue 43

Issue 43 MARCH 2020

THE INSIDER

March 2020

Cover Chad de Alva Design Chris Glaspell Photography Editor Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Antonio Femia Scot Harden Tim Notier Alessandra Reale Contributing Photographers Tim Burke Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Antonio Femia Tim Notier Alessandra Reale Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell Business Development Brandon Glanville Want to advertise with us? Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

A Message to OEMs

INSTA-ADV

Instagram Travelers

GEAR The Latest

WIDE OPEN

Views Through the Lens

WINTER GETAWAY Baja, Mexico

DISCOVER THE HIGH SIERRA

Back Country Discover Route CA - NV

Contact: info@upshiftonline.com

Join us on Instagram at @ upshift_online Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online Join us at facebook.com/upshiftonline

TESTED

Sedona MX-208SR Tires Sena 10C EVO

SOUTHEAST PASSAGE

Mesopotamia

Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2020. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

GUIDE

Riding 2-Up

A MESSAGE TO OEMs Viewpoint By Power Sports Industry Leader and Advocate Scot Harden Adventure/off-road motorcycling offers more than its fair share of personal rewards with emotional health and well-being found right near the top of the list. The positive impact it has on the souls of those who participate, no doubt, is its most significant benefit. Fill a room with a bunch of Jane and John Doe’s, throw in a few adventure/off-road motorcycle enthusiasts, and I’ll bet good money I can pick them out of the crowd. The sport transforms us. It changes how we look, how we move through the world, the energy we bring to any space. It makes us different. Just like every one of us is unique with distinct personalities, so can be said for the corporate world and it’s in the DNA of every major OEM. Every manufacturer has a “soul” and personality, if you will, that evolved over time. It defines their character, the “essence” of the products they make, and most importantly, how they present themselves as a brand to the world. It starts with the culture they come from, their country of origin, how it influences and informs the motivation of ownership, the sensibilities of management, the outlook of staff. It’s how they see the world, the enterprise they are involved in, and how they perceive motorcycling’s place in the world as a consumer product. Some see it strictly as a business, a manufacturing endeavor focused on volume, market share, and EBIT. Others see that and much more. They understand and appreciate the unbridled passion that lies at its core. They get IT! Name a major brand and I’ll bet you have a distinct and immediate emotional response to it. Every major brand earns this by their actions in the marketplace over time. The successful companies own it and work hard to shape it, to break down the distance between them and us. The very best walk, talk, and look just like us. It’s easy to spot the successful ones because we see ourselves in them. This is a note to every OEM and, in particular, their marketing and advertising department. Take a long, hard look at the pages inside this magazine. These are your customers, these are their stories, and this is what motivates and inspires them. It’s not rocket science; it’s storytelling and images that prompt them to spend their hard-earned cash on your products. Thank your lucky stars that communication platforms such as Upshift and others like it exist to help develop and grow the market for your products. Better yet, get involved and see how you can be a better partner. This isn’t a one-way street. Who knows what good might come of it? You might even save your own soul, or at least your business, someday.

MAKE EVERY MILE AN ADVENTURE Set your sights on extreme exploration with this 2-wheel intercontinental missile. With jaw-dropping torque, and the most advanced electronics package in its class, the KTM 1290 SUPER ADVENTURE S is all you need for a fully-loaded, adrenaline-filled getaway like no other.

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

Photo: F. Lackner

FOXRACING.COM

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

INSTA-ADV

Photo: R. Schedl

Professional rider on closed course depicted. Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com

THE ALL-NEW TE 150i Designed to take on the toughest trails, the all-new 2020 TE 150i is a highly capable off-road motorcycle, thanks to electronic fuel injection technology and a new dynamic chassis for a light and agile experience. This innovative 2-stroke machine pushes the boundaries of performance and maneuverability, letting you concentrate on the ride wherever the trail may lead.

1. Alpinestars Announces The New Tech 10 Supervented Boot The benchmark boot in Motocross, the Tech 10 Supervented boot further advances the innovations that make it the most technical motocross boot ever. Featuring two inlet ports on the front, a ventilated shin plate, perforated padding and extensive mesh sections, the Tech 10 Supervented has been designed for maximum airflow through the bootâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s front and effective heat exchange. The new mesh inner bootie boasts a 3D Higher Spring insole which uses air channels within the sole for optimal levels of ventilation, while also creating a cushioning effect for enhanced levels of comfort. There is also a new sole with an extended honeycomb design for superior grip and feel on the bikeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pegs, especially in wet and muddy conditions. MSRP: $649.95. SIZES: US 7-14 / EUR 40.5-49.5 www.alpinestars.com

OUTSIDE THE EXPECTED. DRY NO MATTER WHAT WOLFMANLUGGAGE.COM

2. Wolfman Luggage Wolf Tote Every good motorcycle rider needs a “catch-all” bag. The 2020 Wolf Tote is waterproof, rugged, and large enough to fit all of your odds and ends inside. Carrying tools to the truck? Bringing home groceries? Need to carry a bag of ice and frosty beverages to the fire ring? The 2020 Wolf Tote is a tough and handy bag for all sorts of miscellaneous tasks. Constructed of Radio Frequency (RF) welded, custom 840D TPU fabric for a waterproof and durable carry tote. The yellow interior makes it easier to find things inside. And yes, it’s waterproof, so fill it with water or fill it with ice. MSRP: $44.99. wolfmanluggage.com

• Big enough to stash essentials, but not so big that it gets in the way • Bring tons of stuff with you thanks to the 28 liters of space in this tote • Made from the same robust materials from which we make all of our motor

E T A IN

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ADVENTURE TRANSFORMED

THE NEW BENCHMARK FOR MAXIMUM OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE. Versatile and agile, with a premium speciďŹ cation, the new Tiger 900 Rally range delivers even more incredible oo-road capability, with even higher power and performance, and a new dominant adventure-focused stance for maximum oo-road adventure riding and all-road comfort and style. The Tiger 900 Rally and higher speciďŹ cation Rally Pro both feature a new lightweight adventure chassis, advanced technology and premium equipment, plus a higher capacity 900cc triple engine, delivering 10% more torque than the previous generation, with even more torque low down, and higher overall power (94 peak horsepower) across the entire rev range. Find out more, visit triumphmotorcycles.com

3. Klim Announces Redesigned Traverse Gear KLIM is excited to release the redesigned Traverse Jacket and Pant for dual-sport and adventure riders seeking lightweight, waterproof gear for full seasons of exploration. The redesigned Traverse gear boasts improvements in comfort, lower bulk and now includes shoulder, elbow, knee and hip armor. The Traverse set also offers fantastic versatility because the included D3O armor can be removed to wear the jacket and pant over off-road armor. In shell-only form, the Traverse is ideal for those who value low bulk weather protection paired with body fitting armor – all with better abrasion resistance than a rain jacket. A lightweight GORE-TEX main body fabric is bolstered by Cordura® nylon overlays in key wear areas, while leather panels inside the knees offer grip and protection. KLIM redesigned the leg and torso vents to reduce bulk while maintaining airflow. Traverse gear is a weatherproof barrier to extend your riding season longer into the fall and get it started earlier in the spring. Colors: Gray, Gray/Green, Black. Jacket MSRP $379.99. Pant MSRP $379.99. The Traverse Jacket and Pant are available now at www.KLIM.com.

4. Motion Pro Digital Tire Pressure Gauge 0-60 psi The gauge features an easy-to-read digital screen with back-lighting and is extremely accurate and simple to use. The hose is flexible and easy to get into hard-to-reach places. MSRP: $109.99. www.motionpro.com

Features: • High precision, accurate to +/- 0.6 psi • Precise digital readout to 0.1 psi • Continuous pressure reading, no need to reset when activating bleed valve • Four selectable scales (PSI, BAR, KG-CM2, kPa) • Large easy to read display with back light for low light applications • Billet aluminum trapezoid body • Billet aluminum air chuck provides tight, leak-free seal to tire valve and

is specially designed for reading air pressure

• High flow push button bleeder valve for precise pressure adjustment • 15 inch long high pressure hose with dual swivels and Motion Pro design air chuck

• Heavy duty anti-shock protective rubber boot on gauge • Battery powered (1000 tests) with battery strength indicator • Auto off to extend the battery life • Batteries included (Qty. 2 AAA size)

WIDE OPEN

PATRAS, GREECE

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

WIDE OPEN

CUATRO CASAS - BAJA, MEXICO

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

WIDE OPEN

MOAB, UTAH

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

WIDE OPEN

HURGHADA, EGYPT

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

CONGRATULATIONS CODY!

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BAJA, MEXICO

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

WIDE OPEN

ALABAMA HILLS, CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

No helmet can protect the wearer against all foreseeable impacts. Nothing is a substitute for safe riding practices. ÂŠ2020 Arai Helmet

WIDE OPEN

ALABAMA HILLS, CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

SANORAN DESERT

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

THE NEW WAY TO

GET AWAY BREAK THROUGH BARRIERS INTO STUNNING NEW EXPERIENCES ON THE ALL-NEW SUZUKI V-STROM.

Meet the 2020 Suzuki V-STROM 1050, our most advanced V-STROM yet. Strike awe with new styling inspired by the iconic DR-Z800 Dakar Rally bike & DR-Big. Command higher peak V-twin power with abundant low-end torque. Feel more capable with Advanced Traction Control, Drive Mode Selector, and a new electronic Ride-by-Wire throttle system that delivers smooth yet precise engine response. Time to take adventure into your own hands and make for the exits. Your new V-STROM 1050 is waiting.

V-STROM 1050XT / ADVENTURE

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ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTES RIDE, CLEAN AND SC1 YOUR RIDE TO KEEP IT WORKING AND LOOKING ITS BEST I RESTORES THAT FACTORY SHINE Made in the USA

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Baja, MEXICO Having lived in Southern California for the past 30 years, our March 2019 move to Boise, Idaho has proven to be a real life-changing experience. There are actual seasons in the year, with the February daytime temps hovering around 40 degrees Fahrenheit, what better time to plan a run for the border and have a week riding adventure bikes in the famous/infamous Baja Peninsula. My buddy Todd “TC” Corbitt has been making these winter trips to Mexico for the past five years, and we had a solid group of nine riders ready to head south with fully loaded KTM 790, 990, 1090, 1190, and 1290 bikes. Our group

also included some “Idabros” that I had become

friends with on the trails north of Boise. It was time for some sun, sand, and a few cold Pacifico’s along the way. Did I mention sand?

By Simon Cudby

Day 1 We met midday at the Tecate border crossing to get our 7-day visas. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always a good idea to get these documents at the border, just in case anything happens on the road down south. Once we were all official, we headed just an hour south to Hacienda Santa Veronica for our first nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stay. As soon as we pulled up to the hotel, all the local dogs surrounded our bikes looking for some treats, but that would have to wait until after dinner when I smuggled out some uneaten tortillas. We headed to the restaurant for some beers, food, and friendly banter about our trips to the border.

WINTER GETAWAY BAJA, MEXICO

Day 2 Up early to scrape the ice off of our bike seats. What the heck! Wasn’t it supposed to be warm here? I layered up, turned on my heated grips, and we set out south for the day on the fast-flowing Compadre Trail, with a more challenging detour out to Laguna Hanson. Our first victim of the trip was young Baja rookie, Zack Lantefield, who got tricked by a vicious shadow and whoop combo that caught out his 1190 and sent him to the ground. Although Zack was a bit battered and bruised, he was quickly back on his ride, pinning it through the pine forests of the Parque Nacional Constitución de 1857. We popped out onto the San Felipe-Ensenada Highway 3 continuing southwest towards Valle de Trinidad for a Pemex gas stop and some of our own refueling at the Mi Pueblito restaurant, complete with some valuable wi-fi for us all to sit on our phones through lunch. After we filled up, it was onward to the famed Mike’s Sky Ranch via the back way, complete with a few sandy sections. I realized my fully loaded 790R, along with my self-proclaimed lack of talent, was going to be a handful in the soft stuff. Little did I know what the rest of the trip had in store.

WINTER GETAWAY BAJA, MEXICO

Day 3

We took the front way out of Mikeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nice and early back to the 3 Highway southwest. Our goal was to cross the big dry lake bed between the 3 and San Felipe, but we were unsure of the exit route as we knew it was going to have some sand, and as you probably know, sand and 500-pound bikes donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really play well together. The first three-quarters of the lake bed was covered in a thick crust of salt that was great fun to ride through. We came to a junction along the left side of the big white expanse, and both TC and I checked our GPS tracks. Both of our devices said to head left, so left we went into deep sand that looked like the Baja 1000 race had just gone through.

WINTER GETAWAY BAJA, MEXICO

ADV A/C E P I C A I R F LOW R OA D - R E A DY P R OT E C T I O N O F F- R OA D M O B I L I T Y N E W B A JA S4 JAC K E T & PA N T

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WINTER GETAWAY BAJA, MEXICO

In the ensuing carnage, I picked up my bike five times in the next hour as we all struggled through the sandy valley covered in various cactus species. I say we all struggled, but that’s not really true as my ex-racing buddies Randy Commans and Chris Parker shredded through the sand as if they were on 450’s. Hmmm… must be nice. We all survived the special sand stage unscathed, then stopped for snacks and gas in San Felipe. Time did not allow us to go downtown, so we continued south to one of the true gems of Baja, Gonzaga Bay. This is one of my favorite places I’ve ever visited. So tranquil and quiet, it’s a real contrast to the noise and physicality of riding big dirt bikes for days. At days end, after a quick swim, we sipped on some big margaritas while watching the pelicans dive-bomb the calm bay looking for their dinner. We even had a chat in the restaurant with the legendary Malcolm Smith, who owns a house along the bay. He said we should be on 450’s, and after today’s sand mayhem, I had to agree.

WINTER GETAWAY BAJA, MEXICO

Day 4 Up early again to watch the beautiful sunrise over the Sea of Cortez, we were planning on having a short 110 mile asphalt day down to Bahia de Los Angeles. We had seen a connecting dirt trail from Cocoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Corner, and after a group discussion, we decided it would be a fun detour. Unbeknownst to us, our short day was about to get much longer. Riding for the first half of this dirt option was very scenic, with cacti and desert wildflowers in bloom after recent rains. We hit a gravel two-track section complete with Supercross whoops that seemed to go on forever. One guy in our group, Jeff Olsen, face planted hard and sheared off some of his footpeg hardware. After a trailside repair, Jeff took the trail back to the highway as we didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think his partially repaired footpeg could take any more abuse.

WINTER GETAWAY BAJA, MEXICO

We continued on into a wide, wet, sand wash that proved to be quite fun on the big bikes. TC had cooked his clutch in the sand the previous day, so once we started hitting deeper, dry sand his 990 was done for. On a previous trip, we had seen the legend of the leather shoelace clutch fix in action and decided it was worth a try. TC and Chris Parker pulled the hot clutch cover off, and proceeded to cut about a twelve-inch slice out of Randyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leather belt, and install it between the top plates. Lo and behold, the fix-it worked, well a little anyway. TC handed his bike to the sand-meister himself, Randy Commans, who was able to get the bike up to a rapid pace through the never-ending sand wash, and out to the road. This whole process had cost us more than a few hours, so once we were back on the blacktop, it was almost dark...and raining. Great. We always plan to avoid riding in Baja in the dark, but our pack of six or seven riders cast quite a beam of light as we weaved our way down into Bahia de Los Angles. A short day indeed.

Day 5

An out and back ride to Punta San Fracisquito was on the books for today, about a 190-mile round trip. With fully gassed up bikes, we took off after breakfast for a great ride through the remote area full of giant cacti and amazing scenery. We didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t actually get to look at the scenery unless we stopped, because if you took your eyes off the trail for only a second, a football-sized rock would magically appear and require immediate evasive action, usually into another rock.

WINTER GETAWAY BAJA, MEXICO

There’s not much at PSF, and I like it that way. There’s a small restaurant, but we skipped it as they tend to take quite a while to fix your food. Instead, we broke out a couple of Jet Boils and ate some hot camping food. Back on the trail soon after, we were making some great time, although the constant battering was beginning to take its toll on me, and I could barely hold onto my bike for the last ten miles back into town. After a great dinner and more than a few laughs, we all went to sleep quite early as the following day’s ride was almost 300 miles on the road.

Day 6 A 6:30am start proved to be a little chilly, but after about thirty minutes on our bikes, we had to pull over for another MacGyver quality fix on my bike. Without knowing, I had lost both of my swing arm bolts on the rough trail the day before. I hadn’t checked my bike post-ride and instead grabbed a beer and watched the sunset. It’s easy to do, but lesson learned. Chris Parker and Scott Lantefield once again to the rescue as everyone huddled to come up with a fix that involved various nuts and bolts, a few sockets, and a bunch of safety wire. I was eventually able to run this set-up 600 miles back to California. TC’s clutch was also miraculously holding up nicely as he had skipped the PSF ride the day before.

WINTER GETAWAY BAJA, MEXICO

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WINTER GETAWAY BAJA, MEXICO

We pounded the pavement across to the west coast of Baja for our final night’s stay at the great Cuatro Casas hostel on the cliffs above the Pacific Ocean surf. Our friend Matt Frick had set us up with rooms through Richard, the owner of the compound. Good food and better margaritas that night was bittersweet as we knew our trip was almost over. All that was left was an easy road ride back up to Tecate, at least that’s what we thought.

Day 7 A 6:00am start at first light. We took the short dirt road back to the 1 Highway north and made great time for about fifteen minutes. TC’s clutch had finally given up the ghost. We tried another leather belt transplant, but this time nothing was really helping. TC limped his 990 into Ensenada and called our Baja amigo JC from BajaVoyager, who quickly arranged transport for him to the border. Another great Baja trip in the books, and I am ready to go back again anytime. I’ll just have to remember to tighten all of my bolts every day, and to bring a leather belt just in case. Big thanks to our crew: Todd “TC” Corbitt, Chris Parker, Randy Commans, Rich Libengood, Aaron Raine, Jeff Olson, Scott and Zach Lantefield. Also, JC at BajaVoyager, Matt, at Camp4Lo. Also, a big shout out to Quinn, Ricky, Casey, Leigh, and David from KTM for helping me dial in my 790R.

MAK E I T Y O U

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RIDING CALIFORNIA - NEVADA BACK COUNTRY DISCOVERY ROUTE - PART 1 By Oliver de Vaulx

When RideBDR revealed their Southern California Backcountry Discovery Route last year, it was quickly labeled as the ultimate winter route. Indeed, the prospect of riding snow-free during the coldest months seemed like a dream come true for many ADV enthusiasts. Not one to believe easily in fairy tales, we wanted to know what winter route meant, so we went on the CABDR only one week after the last snowstorm hit California. The ride was not for the faint of heart, but proved exceptional.

Get ting Ready If Southern California is famous for its year-long warm weather and palm trees, these somewhat true clichĂŠs apply more to the beach cities than to the open desert. Checking the forecast on the phone, we could see right away that crossing Death Valley in winter could be freezing cold. Finding the right gear to endure these harsh conditions was crucial, and we chose to try some FLY Racing gear, mixing Patrol pants with Terra Treck jackets, coupled with heated gloves from their snowmobile division. Lastly, their Formula helmet was chosen with the winter pack to close the vents. We decided to use the whole Honda dual-sport line up, from the old school yet bullet-proof XR650L to the most recent and lightweight CRF450L, without forgetting the big but powerful CRF1000 Africa Twin DCT. The three bikes were to be ridden by an equally diverse panel of riders: FranĂ§ois, 62 years old, was the perfect fit for the XR, while Julie, 18 years old, felt more confident on the 450. The Africa Twin was unanimously dedicated to me since I needed more luggage room to fit my photography equipment. Did I feel cheated? Not at all, knowing that I would have a fairing, and they would not. All three bikes were equipped with Shinko tires, MT216 for the dual sports, and E804/805 for the ADV bike. Last but not least, we packed our MoskoMoto and Kriega bags with the strict minimum gear for a one week trip, including enough tools to fix a flat or tighten some loose bolts. Since the first sections in the Mojave desert have already been covered in Upshift issue 29, when we discovered the ride with Mark Samuels, we decided to innovate for 2020.

Realizing that the CABDR and the NVBDR crossed paths at Primm, NV, we chose to use this casino and resort as both the starting and the ending point of our trip, planning to do a loop with the CABDR on the way up and the NVBDR on the way back. Once downloaded, the GPS tracks from RideBDR were uploaded as-is to our Trail Tech Voyager Pro devices, and we were ready to go.

Brutal First Leg Starting from Primm at 7 am, with the optimism of pioneers from the gold rush, we were surprised to find the first miles quite tricky. Barely awake, we had to endure a long stretch of two-track covered with soft gravel and loose rocks, with a gusty crosswind. By the time we reached the famous and impressive Coliseum Mine, we already had plenty of opportunities to get our dose of adrenaline. The climb to the mine was under a thin layer of snow, but as soon as we went back down, headed toward Death Valley, the white blanket disappeared. Filling the tanks at Tecopa, we resisted the temptation of stopping for lunch at the Steak and Beer restaurant. We knew the place and could almost smell the great food, but the days are short in the winter, and it would put us behind schedule. The life of a motorcyclist traveler is made of tough choices! A few sandy sections near the Ibex dunes let the two dual sport bikes fight against each other. François knew the sand, and Julie discovered it, but the easy 450L allowed the young rider to catch up with the veteran on his XR quickly. It’s honestly hard to keep up with these two in the deep sand when you’re riding the Africa Twin, but the adventure bike took her revenge on the wide fire road heading to Furnace Creek. There, you could really use the power and hit the maximum speed of each bike.

Topping at only 70 mph, the XR couldn’t keep up with the CRF450L, whose top speed of 85mph was nonetheless dwarfed by the 105 mph reached on the CRF1000. Still, these speeds were definitely reckless, and we soon got back to cruising mode, just in time to make a detour toward China Ranch. In this oasis, carbon copied from the ones in Morocco, we expected to relax and enjoy a delicious date milkshake. However, Julie then realized that her side stand didn’t hold, with one bolt missing on one of the CRF450L footpeg platforms. We discovered that we forgot the 17mm drive socket to tighten the second bolt. Luckily, Grace left her precious kitchen for a few minutes and gave us access to the barn next door, where we dug in the farmer’s tools to find a replacement bolt and a 17mm socket. Not only was their food excellent and the place charming, the staff at China Ranch saved our day! Returning to the trails, the adventure continued. After some deeper than expected river crossing covered our bikes and gear with salt, we soon discovered that the West Side Road in Death Valley was partially closed due to flooding. Wasn’t this desert supposed to be dry? No big deal, we stayed on the pavement and still enjoyed seeing the altitude dropping deep under zero, reaching -282ft a few times. How cool is that? Reaching Furnace Creek just before the night, we decided to skip on the warm luxury of a hot shower and to push further in the dark, trying to reach Beatty. It might sound a little masochistic, but the plan was to do fewer miles the next morning. Still, the ride to exit the National Park was brutally cold! A bit sour after this first day on the dirt, we barely ate before falling asleep, all alarms set for 6 am the next morning.

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Photo by Olivier de Vaulx New Mexico

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Beavertail stash spot and camp tool holder

changer: an outside-the-box solution no one saw coming. Version 2 builds on this platform through rigorous testing and talking to countless customers who have traversed the globe, crashed at 75mph, been in mud slides, ridden through hurricanes, rivers, deserts and tundra. With the new Backcountry 25L and 35L options, you get the results of hundreds of thousands of miles of hardcore real world testing, hundreds of hours of toil, design, research and discussion. The V2 is packed with tons of new n features, as well as all of the original features

Included bolt-on waterproof pocket system

that made it the most durable, desirable and sought after pannier system for the adventure traveler. We didn’t start from scratch; we took a proven system and made it better.

Find us on MOSKOMOTO.com or on ADVRIDER.com in the ‘Vendors’ forum.

#moskomoto

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Wide Open Scenery After cleaning the layer of salt, which covered every inch of our motorcycles, at the car wash next door we headed to the closest gas station to fill the tanks. It shouldn’t have taken long, but the pump itself froze during the night and couldn’t deliver more than the merest trickle of gas. Having exhausted most of our patience already, we finally returned to the road, headed toward Titus Canyon. The winding trails offered incredible views of the deep valley below, the red and purple rocks highlighted by yellow sediments on the cliffs. There were some patches of snow and ice in the shade, and we paid close attention in order to stay on two wheels. The canyon itself narrowed progressively, to form a 20 ft corridor at the end. Even though the dim light made it look almost like night, the riding was spectacular. It was difficult to see the sky above the skyscrapers (high cliffs), and the colors changed every other turn. We enjoyed having the place to ourselves as the tourists would come later. After this epic morning, we faced a difficult choice. Going to the Racetrack and then through the expert-only sections was our first option, but the elevation of 8,000ft in this section lets no doubt about the presence of snow. Besides, any attempt followed by a U-turn would put us at risk of running out of gas. We then resolved to stay on the pavement, exiting the National Park through Stovepipe Wells, going up over Towne Pass, before going down and refueling at Paramount Springs. At first, riding on pavement felt like a failure, but the snow on the side of the road quickly convinced us that we made the right choice; if it’s already snowy at 5,600 ft, how much of this no-traction layer could have been expected above 7,500ft? The scenery was excellent, and we arrived at Lone Pine early, having not done enough dirt but getting a superb compensation through the visit of the Film History Museum. The next morning, waking up before dawn, we had a terrible surprise: the Africa Twin wouldn’t start! The cold was so intense that the battery had died.

Thankfully we had installed an antigravity battery with a built-in jump-start. It worked like a safety net and allowed us to start the big twin after the simple push of a button. So much for a fresh wake up! We reached the Alabama Hills just in time to see the first light of the sunrise paint the higher summits in bright orange. The view was magical, and we cruised speechless through this incredible landscape, trying to take it all in. No wonder so many movies were shot here! Each twist of the throttle made us feel like we were riding a star trooper’s speeder bike in Star Wars. When the big stacks of boulders disappeared and the valley finally opened up, we were now riding in a green environment, and the contrast between the white summits and the crystal clear blue sky made the whole backdrop even more supernatural. If there’s some legal riding spot in heaven, it has to look like this!

Loaded with History The following hours were almost as good, as we enjoyed a fun double track in the valley, the majestic summits scrolling on our left. The Africa Twin used her power to keep up with the nimble CRF450L and the torquey XR650L on these somewhat technical trails. If the 450L could somehow skim the bumps and hit the berms in the corners, both the XR and the big twin needed to compose with more supple suspension. Using the full travel of the fork, we almost raced like on a track. Following this exhilarating ride, we paused for an emotional moment at the Manzanar Historic Site, where US citizens of Japanese origin were imprisoned during WWII. A dark chapter of recent US history that was well described in the graphic novel, “They Called Us Enemy” from Star Trek actor George Takei. The mood improved with a detour to reach the Reward Mine, after a few miles at full speed on a dusty but perfectly flat gravel road. Being able to ride deep inside the dark mine was unique and fun, even if we couldn’t help but wonder about the lives of the people who dug these tunnels by hand.

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DISCOVER MORE AT ALPINESTARS.COM/SM8HELMET DISCOVER MORE AT ALPINESTARS.COM/SM8HELMET

These were different times, and we felt lucky to live in the 21st century, especially when the powerful LEDs of the Africa Twin’s Cyclops lights opened the way in the darkness! Exiting the mine and going down the mountain through a rocky trail, we were again forced to skip the expert route, which went too high in altitude and was still covered in snow. Reaching Bishop became just another stretch of easy gravel roads and highways, putting us ahead of schedule. The town itself was lovely and we could have stopped there for the night. Still, we pushed further, once again, passing Benton and then doing the last 80 miles on a cold night to reach Tonopah, Nevada. The temperatures were below 25F, and the last 20 miles felt quite long even if the small dual-sport kept cruising at a good pace. The heated gloves at work prevented us from freezing and losing our fingers, but still, we were happy to reach the lights of civilization! Stopping at the famous Mizpah hotel, we enjoyed an incredibly tasty meal. We were in the middle of nowhere, Nevada, but the Mizpah burger was probably one of the best burgers we ever had! Going back to our rooms following presumably haunted hallways, we discussed this CABDR. Despite some detours due to snow over 6000ft, we could definitely follow the whole track, have fun in a ton of different locations, while enjoying great riding on the dirt. Sure, the temperatures never exceeded 55F degrees, averaging 35F through the super short January days. Still, this backcountry route definitely deserves its title of winter route. Thumbs up to RideBDR for offering the opportunity to have so much fun in the coldest months of the year! Tomorrow, if the ghosts of the haunted building let us sleep, we’ll start our way back toward Primm following the NVBDR, but that’s another story.

TESTED

BY CHAD DE ALVA

Sedona M X-208SR T IRE S If Mad Max rode dirt bikes, his tire of choice would be Sedona Tire and Wheel’s new MX-208SR. In an industry first, Sedona Tire has created the first motocross tire that uses radial construction and has a circumferential steel belt, so whether you’re riding for your life in the post-apocalyptic world of Mad Max or you’re just sick of getting pinch flats, the MX-208SR is one bombproof tire. Square-edge hits and the sharpest rocks out there are unable to harm this apocalypse-rated tire that allows the rider to run air pressures that would result in pinch flats on the first rock encountered with other tires. Lower pressures also mean a larger contact patch between the tire and the ground, so this tire has the potential to be able to take all of the abuse that a rider can dish out and provide very respectable traction. To find out exactly what this tire can do, I took it on a tour of some of the most unique landscapes that Arizona has to offer in an effort to introduce the Sedona MX-208SR to every possible rock I could find. The first time you see a MX-208SR in person, you’ll instantly notice a few things. First, you’ll notice that the lugs on these tires are really tall and that the tire appears to be bristling with lugs when placed next to other tires of the same size. The 21mm tall lugs on the rear tire have pockets in the center section and siping on the sides, which help the tire provide better traction. Sedona used two rubber compounds on these tires, and the center section compound is optimized for long life, while the compound on the shoulders provides better cornering traction. Secondly, you’ll notice that the weight of the tire isn’t as bad as you would think, given the tire’s steel-belted radial construction. The 110/100R18 rear I tested weighs in at 1.3 pounds more than my favorite rear tire of the same size. Keep in mind, this tire is stout enough that you can run a lighter weight tube. Third, if you stand up one of these tires and step on the bead, you’ll get an idea of just how burly these tires are, as the sidewall hardly flexes under your body weight. The MX-208SR is packing a unique set of design features and technology, and the way it rides is just as unique. I mounted the MX-208SRs up with Sedona’s Performance Tapered Tubes, and starting with the manufacture recommended pressure of 8psi front and rear, I set off into the ledgy Limestone paradise of Central Arizona. Take an ancient seabed, and factor in all of the geologic change that now finds that same stone a few thousand feet above modern-day sea level, and you’ll find one of the most unique riding environments out there. The rock here is extremely sharp, squareedged, porous, and full of other features that I’d need to consult a geologist to describe properly. The point is that this stone has magical abilities to shred tires and pinch tubes, so it’s a great place to see what the MX-208SR can tolerate.

Our first test ride started off on some very well bermed two-track and loose sandy singletrack, where the MX-208SR’s motocross DNA was instantly evident. The tall lugs provided great grip and pushing the bike hard into bermed corners resulted in plenty of grin-inducing slingshot corner exits. On more hard-packed sections, the sidewalls didn’t feel like they were rolling over, and the tall lugs didn’t communicate any feeling of walking, no matter how much steering was done with the throttle. Soon our singletrack descended into an arroyo, and our ride quickly shifted into an enduro ride where bermed corners were replaced with rocky ledges galore. Instead of applying any technique to make it up these ledges, I went for the brute force and ignorance approach of simply running into things because of science. I certainly wasn’t going flat-out, but no matter how hard I ran the MX-208SRs into obstacles, I couldn’t feel any rim hits. I also found out that these tires do not provide the best side hill traction out there, and I was forced to improvise lines through drainages where my riding buddy could just stick to the side of the drainage with his gummy tires from another manufacture. But this just meant I got to run these tires into more rocks and ledges.

TESTED: Sedona MX208SR TIRES

Curious to know what lowering the pressure even further could do, I dropped both tires down to 4psi, and packed my spare tube kit for our next torture testing session. This ride’s locale was something of a geologic melting pot, where an ancient lava flow got all mixed up with some of that limestone stuff from the first test, and then a bunch of MoabEsq sandstone decided to join the party just to spice things up a bit. We rode Slickrock lines like you would find on Hell’s Revenge and Pritchett Canyon (Moab trails), blasted across rock fields, and explored more sandy washes, but nothing we threw at these tires could phase them. On one technical climb, I ran out of talent and got my rear tire hung up on a rock. Curious again to see what brute force and ignorance would do, I grabbed a handful of the throttle as I’m sure we’ve all witnessed other riders do when they get hung up on an obstacle and get frustrated. The MX-208SR spun up, and instead of turning itself into smoke, the tire began sawing through the rock like it was made to do so. Mad Max would approve – simply cut the rocks in half that slow your progress. I wouldn’t advise trying the same thing with a gummy tire.

After all of this, I still hadn’t managed to get a flat or chunk the tire, so at the end of the day, we aired down to less than one psi and started running into things again. Here the MX-208SR continued to surprise us with just how sturdy it is, even when the tube inside is doing almost nothing. We sessioned square edge ledges and ripped a section of access road to see how things felt. Traction was improved, but it still didn’t quite provide the levels of grip other tires do. Only after repeated smashings into a square edge hit, did we manage to get a tire to de-bead, but we didn’t get a pinch flat. This leaves me wanting to try two things: First, I would love to see what this tire could do with TuBliss. I would run the low-pressure chamber at zero, so that I could get the largest contact patch possible, and have the high-pressure chamber of the TuBliss to keep me from de-beading. Secondly, I would love to see what the MX-208SR would do on a heaver dirtbike like a 690 / 701. I would expect that a little more unsprung weight would get the carcass complying a little more, and based on my pavement riding on a dirtbike, the tire can certainly stand up to hard dual-sport use. Sedona’s MX-208SR is quite the set of tires. It’s definitely the burliest motocross tire I’ve ever spooned on, and it’s been a really fun change from the tires that I regularly run. Being able to just not care about damaging a tire or getting a flat are pretty cool factors to add to your riding mindset. Traction isn’t the best, but these tires certainly make up for that in durability. If you’re the rider who is rocking ultra-heavy-duty tubes and is still getting pinch flats, you need to check out the MX-208SR. Or, if you’re someone who wants a long-lived tire that can take a stupid amount of abuse, the MX-208SR is your jam. If you’re going to mount it on a dirt bike that is 500cc or less, I would strongly recommend you go with TuBliss, as you’re going to want to run it at very low pressures. Sedona has certainly figured out how to harness tire manufacturing technologies not found in motocross tires and package them into a unique set of tires. I know that the “SR” in the name stands for Steel-Belted Radial, but I think it really stands for Supremely Resilient. If you’ve been looking for a tire that can take all of the hits and keep on going, the MX-208SR may be just what you’re looking for. www.sedonatires.com

TESTED

BY CHAD DE ALVA

SENA 1 0C E VO How many times have you found yourself on a ride, wishing that you could tell your riding buddies something? Maybe they just missed a turn, or you just spotted a cool feature that you need to go play on, or even something as simple as just wanting to BS while you’re grinding miles out on the slab. Being able to communicate easily while you’re riding is a wonderful thing. For the last five years, several of my riding buddies and I have been using SENA 20S communication devices on all kinds of dual-sport, enduro and ADV rides, so when the chance came up to get to check out the new 10C EVO, I was eager to see what SENA’s latest and greatest could do. The 10C EVO is unique to the world of motorcycle communication devices in that it pairs a fully-featured 4K camera with SENA’s robust Bluetooth communication systems. With the 10C EVO, you can record video in 4K resolution at 30FPS, take photos, record time-lapses, and even capture voice-over audio to make your videos that much more meaningful. The camera writes to a micro SD card that installs into the bottom of the unit, and card sizes up to 128GB are supported. Camera mode is controlled using the physical buttons on the unit, and camera functionality can be turned on or off as needed. This means that the 10C EVO isn’t hamstrung to having a short battery life like many action cameras. As long as you turn the camera off when you’re not using it, the 10C can go all day long on a single charge, even in colder temperatures. If you’ve ever had to stop while riding to double-check if your action camera beeped to let you know that it was in fact recording, you’ll appreciate that the 10C EVO provides audio feedback for everything the camera is doing. Turn the camera on, and the unit will say “camera on” to let you know it’s on. Start or stop recording a video, and the 10C EVO provides an easily understandable voice response to let you know what the camera is doing. These notifications are played through the unit’s audio output, and it feels much more 2020 than simply listening for a sequence of beeps. Likewise, you’ll never have to ask your buddy to watch for a blinking red light to check if your camera is recording. SENA has developed a standalone camera app, which provides a user experience much like any other action camera, in that you can adjust all of the camera settings, check your framing, and review your footage saved to the camera’s micro SD card. Speaking of audio, one of the things I really appreciated about the SENA 20S was that you could plug in your own earbuds. This enabled the user to use high-quality earbuds that not only provided great sound but also provided hearing protection while riding. With the 10C EVO, however, SENA has decided to only include their helmet-mounted speakers, which in our testing provided poor audio quality whether we were trying to listen to music or carry on a conversation (intercom or phone call) at any speed. Thankfully, there’s an accessory part that allows you to run earbuds (Part 10CA0101), and I would strongly recommend that you add one to your cart with your 10C EVO. I just wish SENA had included this part with the 10C EVO kit, as once you use earbuds, you’ll wonder why the external speakers are even a thing. Protect your hearing, folks. There’s no cure for tinnitus.

TESTED: SENA 10 C EVO On the Bluetooth communication side of things, the 10C EVO is exactly what you would expect from a modern Bluetooth device. Everything from playing music to interfacing with your device’s assistant works as expected. SENA has been making Bluetooth communication systems for years, and their interfaces are easy to understand. The jog dial and other physical buttons on the unit are quick to get the hang of. I’m also glad to see that there’s no flip-up antenna on the 10C, so there’s no risk of breaking the antenna off like there is on the 20S. By the end of my first ride, doing what I wanted with the 10C EVO was automatic. SENA has also improved the process of starting intercoms, and the process of linking up your buddies for a ride is as easy as a few button presses and watching for the correct light sequences. As with the camera controls, the 10C EVO will tell you what it’s up to with more voice notifications, which is quite helpful as the manual isn’t the best. Make sure you open the manuals on your device while you’re setting things up at home. For some reason, SENA makes you download the manuals to your device instead of caching them in the app, which means you can’t open a manual off-grid if you haven’t downloaded it previously. Installing the 10C EVO on your helmet is very straightforward, and SENA provides a complete selection of mounts that allowed me to easily mount the 10C to every helmet I own. With a little bit of time spent selecting the best mount for a given application and routing wires through the helmet, I had a clean setup that also enabled me to point the 10C’s camera where I wanted for the optimal shot while riding. If you’re going to be running your 10C EVO on multiple helmets, SENA sells extra mounting kits so that you can easily swap the unit between mounts on different helmets. There’s an old saying, “the best camera is the one that you have with you,” and SENA’s 10C EVO is a solid piece of kit in that it adds an action camera to a very capable Bluetooth communication system. Making calls, listening to music, talking to your riding buddies, and more can all be done with the 10C EVO. Even if you never turn the camera on, the 10C EVO will still prove useful, yet having a camera that’s so easy to turn on and use while riding, can be a pretty clutch feature for quickly capturing the adventure. SENA’s 10C EVO isn’t without its quirks, but on the whole, it works well and provides so much functionality that you’ll find yourself bringing it along on all of your rides. www.sena.com

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SUMMER OPENER 2

www.pnwdualspor t.com

Celebrating a Decade of Adventure Ten years, ten routes, and 10,000 miles of tracks for the ADV community to enjoy. It’s been a wild ride so far and we’re just getting started. The BDR team is more inspired than ever with tons of new ideas for the next decade of backcountry discovery. But all of our efforts would not have been possible without the generosity of our supporters over the years. We truly appreciate your ongoing support. Please visit our website to find out how you can help our mission by volunteering, joining our supporter program, or becoming a sponsor. Join us at our Appalachian Adventure Spring Fundraiser. There are still a few spots left: RideBDR.com/2020fundraiser

Washington BDR, circa 2010

RideBDR.com

By Antonio Femia and Alessandra Reale (www.totolemoto.it)

History Book, Chapter One: Mesopotamia. A region in the Middle East, rich and for this reason peaceless. A road trip through the cities of prophets and biblical places in southeast Turkey. The murmur of the single-cylinder is the soundtrack of our lazy pace, forcibly slow because of the many trucks in both directions. After we left in the morning in the biting cold air in Konya, we ran for a short time on the D-330 — a four-lane highway like all self-respecting Turkish roads — and now we find ourselves stuck in the traffic, while temperature grows as we go lower and the muggy weather takes away the fascination of the motorbike as an instrument of freedom. Turkey is a really big country, and it looks bigger, staring at the map printed on both sides. In the morning, we got over the shock of turning the map, and now we’re ready to go over the limit: taking the speedway! It turned out to be the wisest choice not only to shorten the time but especially to mitigate the unbearable desert heat of August. The O-52 Speedway quickly crosses the southeast of the nation, cutting the plain desert stretching southbound to infinity, streaked with scattered cultivations as green spots, interrupting a constant carpet in all its shade of amber. It’s night when we finish our 650 km of the day, aware that the other side of the map is related to a more intense declination of Turkish hospitality: during the last stops in service stations we exchanged tobacco with local people, they offered us their intense coffee, we shot photos together with the owner and the cook of a restaurant, quickly shared worldwide over their Instagram. These days it’s hard to meet western tourists, and our presence is a real event for them.

Şanlıurfa, City of Prophets Mustafa, hotel Uğur’s owner, welcomes us with plenty of tea upon the terrace, still warm after hours from sunset. After suggesting what to see in and around the city, it tells about how things have changed in the last years. The many thousands of Syrian refugees had, for sure, a great impact at the beginning, but now the situation is well managed by the government and rather sustainable. According to him, the real problem is the precipitous dropoff in western tourists caused by fear of terrorist attacks or Syrian warfare. Urfa the Glorious, that’s the meaning of its name, was established thousands of years ago: it’s Ur in Holy Bible, Edessa for Byzantines. The city gained the title of Glorious during the fight against French occupation one century ago, but the inhabitants prefer to stay humble. Although the center is small enough to be visited by walk, here time has a relative meaning. You can wander for hours among bazaars finding yourself in the same place in the end, drunk with colors and voices. Everything is sold in the Bazar, and we take the chance to stock up on some Diyarbakır tobacco and pistachios from Gaziantep. The owner of a weapons store offers me a Kalashnikov at a bargain-price for the sympathy — Italia? Beretta number one! —but really we don’t know how to carry it with us on the bike. You can breathe a relaxed atmosphere although the great chaos, more Arabian than Turkish style indeed. It’s a great and pleasant time waste to spend hours in the great courtyard of the caravanserai, watching men from all walks of life playing cards, chess and dominoes while drinking liters of tea. We find some small tailor shops in the balcony over the courtyard, producing traditional dresses, and I’m next to bring home a pair of Kurdish pants. At night we join a dinner with traditional music in a Konagi, which is a sort of manor house used as a restaurant: you eat local dishes at a fixed price while a restless orchestra plays Kurd, Arabian, and Turkish music engaging the audience in dance and song. We’re the only westerners, don’t understand a word of dedications they direct us, nor do we know the traditional dance. But what matters is taking part, so we improvise, joining this memorable night.

The Terrace over Mesopotamia Around Şanlıurfa, there are plenty of interesting historical sites. Before heading east, we visit Harran, a village a few kilometers from Urfa — about twenty from the Syrian border — surrounded by cotton fields irrigated by the Atatürk Dam on the Euphrates river. Harran is famous for its stone houses with a circular ground plan and covered by domes, as well as the first mosque built in Turkey in the 8th century. There’s a nappy atmosphere: the small cobblestone streets bordered by drywalls are almost desert for the great heat. Some children approach us, amazed to meet these two aliens on a bike, just like their parents do in front of the castle. The museum house we visit is clearly set up for tourists but gives an idea of how life was in these houses. We have a little talk with two kids getting excited knowing we’re from Italy; they’re aware that in our country we have a similar construction called “Trulli”. We drink a cold Coca Cola in a hopeless effort to lower our temperature before the 250 kilometers straight road to Mardin. Perched on a 1090 meters high rocky spur, Mardin lays around the ruins of a Roman fortification — its name means fortress — and were founded by Christians of Persian Church in the 3rd century. Its high position granted the city more than a stunning view over the plain: the Syriac Christian cult was practiced until the 20th century despite the spread of Islam and Mongol invasion. Today, Mardin people seem to be free from the interethnic mistrust of the middle east: Arabs, Kurds, and Turkish live in peace here and although nationalist persecutions of the 20th century, Mardin still has a great number of active Syriac monasteries. Here, among narrow lanes connecting shops and mosques, many people still speak the language of Jesus and Talmud. Aramaic is yet spoken in the Deyrulzafran monastery, where Syriac friars keep on studying despite the war in Syria and the long-lasting one between Turkey and PKK. As well as monks, Mardin people seem to live on a happy isle lost in the uncertain sea. One Cylinder is Enough Main roads are wide and quick in Turkey, with rough asphalt made of thick gravel, which has an incredible grip. Our Ténéré 660’s engine seems at its last trip: tired after 150.000 kilometers, it looks next to collapse for the great heat dilating gaskets, enhancing oil pressure, cutting off oxygen from combustion. On these roads, so wide to look one with the desert all around, you ride full throttle most of the time; we travel fully loaded like a bullet shot towards a barren rock infinity. The happy murmuring of the engine is now the sodomite shout of an aching beast, that swing at every dip in the road at the speed of 140 km. When slowing down, the exhaust explosions sound like gunshot worrying the few people we meet in this land of the everlasting guerrilla. I can feel every single shot of the 6000 round per minute, and every shot seems to be the last one. It sounds like its ready to die, but it only needs to run to stay cold and alive. We are instead overturned by the heat, forcing us to close the helmet’s visor in order to take cover from glowing air, after the quick downhill to the height of 500 meters. After only 130 kilometers, we stop for the night in Hasankeyf, down the Tigris river, staring at the skyline of the ancient settlement, next to vanish because of the Ilısu dam whose works are mainly completed.

This dam’s story is controversial: beyond its unquestionable usefulness, many opponents of the project say that the flooding of Hasankeyf is aimed to bring down the pride of Kurdish people through the destruction of their historical sites. Ten thousand years old, Hasankeyf is a history book that tells about troglodytes, Christians, Muslim dynasties. The 15th-century bridge’s ruin and the 12th-century minaret are only the most visible among 550 historical artifacts justifying the inclusion of the city in UNESCO heritage. That sounds like it’s a wonderful place, and it should be indeed, but its fate, sealed by now, heavily conditioned people’s life and the whole place’s mood. Almost all of the five thousand inhabitants were moved elsewhere, and nobody of the few left would spend a pie for a city next to be flooded. The only active guest house, described as a wonderful stay in our guidebook, is by now a fleabag place: scruffy and excessively high priced for the dirty rooms facing a pool full of trout and mosquitoes. The picturesque view of restaurants with their tables along the shore reveals all their misery as soon as you get closer: everybody tries to bring home the last earnings before the dam makes their life change forever. A heartbreaking, beautiful place was deserving to be honored with a visit, before its definitive death. The Alkaline Lake After the night spent among bugs of every size, we decided it’s time to leave this place, sad and warm like hell, heading to Van Lake. After passing Batman (yes, it’s a city), we continue on a plain road until Baykan, where finally road starts climbing. The barren yellow desert gives way to a bucolic landscape, and, beyond Bitlis, the view of Van Lake opens ahead of us with all its vastness. Air is pleasantly cold at 1600 meters, and we’re all better: the engine has come to a new life, and we can keep our jacket without liquefying. We’re in the mood to have a swim in the lake, but we must go beyond the big military base of Tatvan to reach the shore, so we decide to visit Ahlat cemetery first. This cemetery has thousands of lava rock tombstones from the Seljuk era carved with intricate motives and inscriptions. Raised one by one in a thousand years, they’re carefully watched by crows perching on them and turtles lazily climbing among the ruins. Their skyline gives a mystic mood to all the atmosphere. While the sun is starting its descent on the other side of the world, we start our search for a good camping spot along the lakeshore. Here it is after a few attempts: just under the main road there’s a path leading to a small house; there is a fountain, a wooden table and a couple of chairs. There’s a family yet camped who invites us to stay there, and we’re happy to accept, as we like to have some company. We quickly set up the tent and, before cooking, we finally have a swim under the sky getting more colorful while a lazy moon goes to sleep early, making way to a shining Milky Way. After the uncomfortable accommodation of the night before, we can finally enjoy our million stars tent with a natural pool.

Lava On The Border Real luxury is not only diving into the water as soon as the sun warms your tent, but also washing without the need of soap: the water of Van Lake is highly alkaline — there’s a high concentration of lye —and that’s why it itches on the skin. Its salinity allows the living to only a few species of fish, and, for the same reason, it’s not drinkable nor can it be used for fields. A legend talks about a monster living in the lake — a sort of Turkish Nessie — but reality is more thrilling: researchers found at the bottom of lake groups of stalagmites and the ruins of a fortification from the time of Kingdom of Urartu, the arch-enemy of the Assyrian Empire, which dominated this region between 9th and 6th century B.C. All the area is characterized by signs of volcanic activity, and it’s better understandable, once you leave the lake, going along the D-975 highway which runs north following the Iranian border through the lava pit of Tendürek Dağı. This is a hot territory not only for volcanoes: we’re now in the heart of the Kurdistan region whose people, mainly divided among Turkey, Iran, Iraq, and Syria, are claiming the recognition of its own language and identity in a long-lasting direct fight against the government. This endless guerrilla, together with the proximity of Armenia — a sworn enemy of Turkey — and Iranian border make this frontier area one of the most troubled regions in the world, although absolutely safe for foreign visitors. This explains the presence of so many military small bunkers, checkpoints, and the armored vehicles moving fast to avoid attacks. This long story seems nothing but the continuation of longstanding conflicts and biblical tales: Assyria becomes Syria, Urartu becoming Ararat. Our story ends in the Kurdish city of Doğubeyazıt, at the bottom of the most important dormant volcano in Turkish territory sacred to all the main monotheistic religions. The biblical tale says that Noah’s Ark stranded over the Ararat at the end of the Flood, bringing life again on the Earth. In spite of our time’s materialism, the search of the Ark continues restlessly, and someone announces the great discovery on a regular basis. The last finding dates back to 2010 when a Chinese-Turkish expedition said they found a sort of cave made by wood proven by C14 to be 4800 years old. It’s probably an ancient shepherd’s shelter or farm, like the many others yet found there. While we’re waiting for a denial from scientists, we can’t help to ask ourselves what’s the reason for this research: Faith? Power? Is it simple superstition, or is it a pretext for nosing around one of the most controlled areas in the world? Every People call this mountain in a different way, according to their language: for Turkish it’s the Mountain of Pain, for Armenians the Mountain of Sun, Flaming Mountain for Kurds and simply Noah’s Mountain for Iranians. Whatever it’s called, just looking at it, you can understand the reason for all these stories; everything looks small in comparison: shepherd’s shacks, fields, us. Even the wide rough roads of Turkey.

Pillions donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get as much credit as they sometimes deserve. They are often referred to only as a passenger, but after riding through the Americas for twenty months, I can confirm that there is a lot more to the person behind me than just a stowaway. From helping to lift the bike up after an inconvenient fall (when are they ever convenient?) to being able to experience the world and all of its wonders with the one you love. It can also be challenging in times of frustration or when obstacles present themselves over and over again. But, with patience, and maybe a little compromising, you will be a powerful team that will be able to overcome any test. You will both be able to absorb the beauty of the world, all while giggling and sharing stories as you travel.

Photos and Words: Tim Notier

Why Have a Passenger? Because there’s nothing better than feeling the wind on your face and the sun on your back as you pass through incredible scenery, especially beside someone you care about. Do you think you really know the person you love and/or married? Try spending twenty hours a day physically touching each other. Marisa and I used to spend about four to six hours together a day while awake, and now we are front to back or side by side from the moment I first open my eyes to when I close them for the last time to sleep. This can sound like a romantic Disney movie, but in reality, it can take some getting used to. But, now that we have shaken out some of the bugs, literally and figuratively, we wouldn’t change it for the world. What many people don’t realize is that having a passenger can be wonderful for the rider as well. Sharing the ride can be a rewarding experience, and in many ways, it will strengthen your bond together. You will go through every dip and bump and curve in the road together, you will both feel the same rain and the same wind. Plus, if you have a Bluetooth headset to talk to each other, your passenger will be able to point out wildlife or signs that you may have missed, or they can express the beauty of the landscape in ways in which you had not noticed. You might even find that having company on your motorcycle makes the journey that much more enjoyable.

A Few Practical Benefits of Riding Two-Up While the riderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hands are firmly gripped onto the handlebars, your passenger can take pictures and videos, pay for tolls or other entrance fees, and confirm GPS routes. When the rider wears a small backpack, important items can be easily within reach for the passenger, and any cameras, phones, or other expensive devices should always be on a tether. But actually, the backpack can provide a bit of a cushion between you two and support for the passenger. Another great benefit of having a passenger is if your bike decides to suddenly take a nap, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s much easier to have someone else there to help pick it back up. Motorcycles do not have a reverse gear that would come in handy if you need to back up a steep incline, but, I sometimes call Marisa my reverse; she pushes the bike backwards while I make beeping sounds as we slowly back up. She also helps push us out of sand or is the extra pair of hands while making repairs on the side of the road.

2-Up Tip #1 – If You’re the Rider, Be a Passenger at Least Once Right off the bat, I strongly suggest that the rider take a back seat at least once so that they can experience the thrill of being a pillion. I never in my life had ridden as a pillion until a year into our journey through the Americas. When I was in Guatemala, my bike was being repaired and I had to ride on the back of a friend’s bike to get back home. This was an awful experience of bumping around, having no control at all, and having blind faith that the person in front of me wouldn’t kill me. I respected Marisa a whole lot more after that short ride. I had no idea how helpless it felt to be a pillion, and how much trust I had to have for the rider. It will help both parties understand the union between the rider and pillion, after all, both of you will act as a single unit on the same bike.

2-Up Tip #2 - Discuss the Pillion’s Position Before you hit the road, have a conversation with your passenger about what is expected of them. For example, I prefer that Marisa remains as still as possible, fighting the urge to lean with me, or counterbalance any movements that I might make. This may seem like common sense, but because some passengers have no other experience with being on a motorcycle, they may feel the instinct to lean into corners, or try to counterbalance it by leaning the other way, or they may think it’s helpful to turn around and see the traffic behind them. But these unexpected movements can take the rider by surprise and can even be dangerous. By simply informing the passenger that in most scenarios they should remain as still as possible and to not make any sudden movements, will avoid any counter-balancing that could potentially throw you off (hopefully not literally). I tell Marisa to just pretend to be a piece of luggage. As degrading as that sounds, it is to just express that I can predict and react to her deadweight more easily than if she shifted around behind me.

Also keep in mind that your passenger may want to watch the road and see what’s ahead, but will have your big helmet directly in front of them. They may be tempted to lean to either side to see, but remind them to never lean too much or too quickly. Remember what it’s like for them, and that it is very unnerving to be riding on the back with no control and not being able to see what’s ahead of you. As time goes on and the trust between you two builds, the passenger’s tendency to constantly want to see ahead should subside. Also realize that the motorcycle will behave differently even when you and the pillion are in perfect harmony. The additional weight causes the bike to take longer to come to a complete stop, acceleration response will be slightly slower, and the bike will act differently when leaning into corners. Before you just crank the throttle as usual, be sure you understand how the bike reacts with the additional weight.

2-Up Tip #3 – Get a Bluetooth Headset A great piece of gear for two-up riding is a Bluetooth headset that you can put into your helmets to talk to one another. Conversing is a wonderful way to enjoy the ride on a new level by sharing your individual experiences. It can also help get you through nasty traffic or confusing turnoffs to have another pair of eyes assisting in navigation. But with these headsets it doesn’t mean you’re stuck talking to your partner the whole time either. These systems also connect to your phones or other digital music devices so you can receive calls or listen to music, podcasts, or audio books, and you can do it individually inside your helmets. So that means Marisa doesn’t have to listen to my Guns and Roses and I don’t have to listen to her classical music. If we want to talk to each other, we just click the button and bam, we’re on speaker with one another. Now that we’ve had these, we’d never go anywhere without them. Before we had headsets, we still had a communication system, although it was a little bit primitive. Some simple sign language and taps can express basic commands. The first format of unspoken communication that we made sure we were able to express was: “I need to use the bathroom” and “I need to stretch.” When Marisa made a walking motion with her fore finger and middle finger, I knew that she wanted to get off for a short break. We also had a creative hand signal for when she needed to use the bathroom; crossing her index finger over her middle finger looked like the classic pose of children crossing their legs in dire need of a toilet. But, a Bluetooth headset cleared up any miscommunication, and allowed us to use our full vocabulary instead of just a few gestures.

2-Up Tip #4 – Make the Pillion Comfortable We all know the saying “A happy wife makes a happy life” and the same can be said about your pillion. I might even go as far to say, “I’d spend a million for a happy pillion” but it doesn’t quite roll off of the tongue as well. Most motorcycle manufacturers didn’t think too hard about passengers’ comfort when designing the rear seat. More often than not, it’s way too narrow for anyone’s actual human-sized rear-end to be comfortable. No one wants to be sitting on a balance beam for hours, so we invested in an AirHawk. We also stuck a wide plastic plate under the cushion to give Marisa a little more support for her derriere. The more comfortable your pillion is, the less they will be fidgeting around behind you, and the farther you will be able to ride in one sitting. Another thing that motorcycle designers seem to reduce the size of are the passenger pegs. Marisa would stand up with me on some difficult roads, but her endurance was shortened by a couple of factors. Her biggest complaint was that her pegs were about half as wide as mine.

The narrow pegs would make the arch of her foot hurt after standing for only a short amount of time. There’s not a lot of aftermarket passenger pegs out there, but we installed a pair of Honda Goldwing pegs, with a little grinding and persuasion with a hammer, onto our KTM 1190. The wider pegs have definitely added a noticeable amount of comfort for Marisa both while sitting down and on the occasions that she stands up. Finally, outfitting the bike with a sissy bar and even possibly a cushioned back will guarantee to make your passenger extremely happy. Marisa has even fallen asleep behind me, just once, but awoke immediately after I had to brake for traffic and she head-butted me with her helmet. Aim for high comfort, but please avoid falling asleep.

2-Up Tip #5 – Practice Standing Together on the Bike One of the great advantages to standing on a motorcycle instead of sitting is that it lowers your center of gravity to the pegs. This can give the rider greater control for off-road, difficult terrain, and it can help the bike’s momentum when going up steep inclines. Standing probably won’t come naturally for the passenger, and a standing passenger will affect the rider as well, so practice is important. One of the trickiest things about having your passenger stand with you is knowing that they will be using you for balance. Though you have the handlebars, your passenger will need to hold onto something while standing, and it will most likely be your hips, shoulders, a part of your jacket, or backpack. As the rider, you will be pulled forwards or backwards by your passenger depending on if you’re braking or accelerating, which can throw you off balance if you’re not expecting the extra tug and push on your upper body. When standing, both you and your passenger should have the peg on the balls of your feet to give you the most support, and never lock your knees so that your legs can absorb the bumps in the road like a giant spring. Sometimes the pegs may be in an uncomfortable position, or if the gas tank is placed in the middle of your bike, it can completely prevent your passenger from standing by bowing their legs out (I may or may not be referring to the BMW F800GS). This is also a good time to use your Bluetooth for communication instead of blasting Nine Inch Nails, or in Marisa’s case, Mozart. It is important to be on the same page, just as is was with the standard pillion position tip, but this time even more so because standing usually implies you are offroad. I don’t expect Marisa to stand whenever I stand, but usually only when going uphill. It is always better if both the rider and passenger are on the same page and the rider can predict what their passenger will do and when. Some couples love standing up together and find that it helps a lot, and some do not. By practicing, you will find your own balance to having your passenger stand with you.

2-Up Tip #6 – Practice Picking Up the Bike Together Let’s face it, even the best of us fall sometimes, and having a passenger around to help pick up the bike with you is a great bonus. Many people do not injure themselves in the fall, but end up straining their back while trying to pick up their heavy motorcycle, and that’s a shame. There are lots of techniques out there which are not so strenuous on the back, but there are even more possibilities when you have another person to help. One person can tackle the front and the other the back, you can both try to lift it while facing away from it and using your legs, or you can even do the “baby monkey” approach with someone on the other side as a counter weight. Try watching some videos online together to get some ideas, and then I suggest go out and practice in a grassy field.

2-Up Tip #7 – Mount and Dismount in Different Ways If the two of you learn to get on and off your bike in different ways, you will familiarize yourselves with gaining your balance in new positions, you might find a new technique you like better, but also there may be instances when you’ll need these skills. For example, most people mount and dismount the bike by first having the rider get on, then the passenger by standing on the left peg and holding onto the rider’s shoulder while flipping their leg over. But how about seeing if the passenger can get on and off without the peg (as in if it got broken), or without holding onto the rider in any way? How about getting on from the right side of the bike (for if someone injured their left foot or ankle)? It is also beneficial to learn how to have the passenger get on first and the rider afterwards. This turned out to be very valuable for us when I hurt my right foot in a fall and had to be on crutches while we were in Peru. Because I was the passenger, I could still travel on the bike, but mounting and dismounting became a problem. Eventually, we learned to have me sit up sideways on the front seat, and from there I could bring my right leg over the motorcycle and scoot myself back onto the pillion. Actually, this way was quite comfortable and easy for me.

In Conclusion I believe that riding two-up has not just been an incredible experience for Marisa and me, but it has strengthened our relationship as well. A lot of trust has been built up between us, as I find that riding together is a type of dance in which we each rely upon the other not to lean too far, to help each other with the occasional support, and to always stay in balance. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve learned to think in unison, to pay attention and predict each otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s every movement, and we are now more in tune with one another than ever before. I hope that more people out there learn to ride together in this way and that they find the same enjoyment from it that we have.

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