Upshift Issue 45 - May 2020 by UPSHIFT

Issue 45

May 2020

#GO ADVENTURE KTM 390 ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE MORE Fuel your restless spirit with a new adventure every day. Discover KTM’s sporty attitude and proven performance credentials aboard this new, compact single-cylinder travel-enduro machine – the KTM 390 ADVENTURE. Versatile ergonomics, smooth power delivery, and innovative technology all come together in a comfortable, lightweight package – created for those who want to fit more adventure into their daily lives.

Foto: R. Schedl

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective safety gear and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations. The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost. European specification model shown for illustration purposes only.

MAKE IT YOUR MISSION WE ARE DUNLOP

TRAILMAX MISSION: DESIGNED TO TAKE YOU ANYWHERE.

AGGRESSIVE UPPER SIDEWALL TECHNOLOGY Wrap-around side lugs add rigidity and durability in rocky terrain, and improve steering in sand, mud and gravel.

TRAILMAX MISSION

Issue 45

May 2020

Cover Steve Green Design Chris Glaspell Photography Editor Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Pete Day Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Blake Draguesku Freddy Lexx Michnus Olivier Taye Perry Contributing Photographers Tim Burke Justin W. Coffey Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Blake Draguesku Steve Green Michnus Olivier Miguel Santana Brian Sheffer Rally Zone Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell Business Development Brandon Glanville Want to advertise with us? Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

Join us on Instagram at @ upshift_online Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online Join us at facebook.com/upshiftonline

Issue 45 MAY 2020

THE INSIDER Keeping it Rolling

INSTA-ADV

Instagram Travelers

GEAR The Latest

WIDE OPEN

Views Through The Lens

TAYE PERRY

Chasing The Dream

SOUTH AMERICA

The Best Country Roads

BIKE MAINTENANCE Stay- At-Home Servicing

TESTED

Pro Circuit Ti-6 Exhaust

FIRST RIDE

KTM 390 Adventure

Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2020. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

WINTER RIDING Nevada BDR - Part 2

KEEPING IT ROLLING INSIDER: Pete Day, Mosko Moto Rolling into 2020 things were looking good. The winter shows were up nicely over last year, and ADV was headed for another banner year. Then suddenly, in March, everything changed. Within a few short weeks, our entire business, from production to sales, would be upended by a virus that wasn’t even named until February. Factories were closed, development projects were frozen, and all of our shows and rallies for the foreseeable future were canceled. It happened in the blink of an eye. It’s like when something goes wrong on a motorcycle trip: one minute you’re cruising along, stoked as hell, then in less than a heartbeat, disaster strikes. Suddenly you’re stuck, lost, hurt, stranded, or robbed. It’s snowing, raining, or hailing. The trail deteriorates, the road is blocked, or the border guards won’t let you cross. Your so-called ‘plans’ aren’t worth the map you scribbled them on. But here’s the twist: the best moto trips ALWAYS have obstacles, and the obstacles later become the highlights. A strong contrast between the highs and lows is what makes the journey epic. That’s why we keep moving forward, knowing good things will surely follow. Easy trips are boring trips. This time, when the outlook changed from ‘growth’ to ‘survival,’ we hunkered down. We’re reducing expenses, deferring payments, and conserving cash in case things get worse. I know we’re not alone in that. When things recover, we’ll reverse all those tough decisions, and carry on a little smarter and craftier than we were before. Bull markets make us complacent, but bear markets make us lean and strong. In the meantime, riders are tinkering on their bikes while they shelter at home and planning for the trips they’ll do this summer. Our phones are still ringing and our inbox is full each morning. We’re lucky this sport we love is compatible with social distancing (#motodistancing). ADV businesses will fare better than most, and riding will resume as soon as the restrictions are lifted. See ya out on the trail soon (helmets, gloves, and 6 feet between us).

RALLY RAC

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SQVARNA, BMW, HONDA, YAMAHA, TRIUMPH, KAWASAKI, SUZUKI and more. Available in 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50 & 20W-50.

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

INSTA-ADV

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The road quickly disappears behind you as you turn off the asphalt and engage offroad ride mode on the fly. the mighty single powers you smoothly along the trail. With its cutting-edge electronics and nimble chassis, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ready to take on any terrain you choose.

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Versatility without compromise.

1. Klim Releases Updated Off-Road Gear The Dakar series gear is a blend of durability and airflow, featuring massive adjustable vents on the pant legs in addition to multiple stretch panels, leather overlays, and heavy duty 840D Cordura in key areas. The redesigned Dakar Jersey, with tough sleeves, vented sides, a zippered sleeve pocket and a lightweight body, is equally focused on durability while still maintaining good airflow for off-road riding. Pricing; Jersey MSRP $69.99, ITB Pants MSRP $189.99, Pants MSRP $209.99-$229.99, Gloves MSRP $39.99 The Mojave series pushes the balance towards airflow while maintaining durability, with pants featuring the same key materials as in the Dakar Pant, but with fully open mesh panels for full-time airflow in hot weather. The redesigned Mojave Jersey also features a more open mesh body material for more airflow, while upgrading to the same durable sleeve material found in the Dakar Jersey. Pricing; Jersey MSRP $59.99, ITB Pants MSRP $169.99, Pants MSRP $199.99$219.99, Gloves MSRP $34.99. Available at Klim.com

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1. Husqvarna 701 Enduro Fuel Tank Kit Husqvarna Motorcycles is pleased to announce the availability of the Additional Fuel Tank Kitâ&#x20AC;&#x161; a comprehensive and complete set of parts that enlarge fuel capacity to 25 litres when fitted to 701 Enduro machines. This extended fuel range prolongs adventures and increases rider confidence when exploring remote areas. Built to stand up to the most serious adventures, the Additional Fuel Tank Kit boasts strong and durable rotationally molded tanks with leak proof closure. Ensuring optimal weight distribution and with easy switching between front and rear tanks thanks to the supplied electronic switch, the kit also features an additional fuel pump for uninterrupted fuel flow. The Additional Fuel Tank Kit comes with a new seat and graphics kit. For all details on pricing and availability please refer to your national Husqvarna Motorcycles Subsidiary or Importer. Availabilities may differ from country to country. www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com

2. Upshift Utility Straps The Upshift Utility Strap is a rock solid piece of kit for attaching gear to a bike or simply keeping gear contained in a compact form. They also serve as a kind of giant reusable zip-tie or duct tape. In a pinch, these things will become the solution you never would have dreamed of until you needed it. Keeping a couple handy on any ride is an easy decision to make. MADE IN THE USA from a highly durable stretch gray polyurethane with a UV resistant additive for longevity and a hardened aluminum buckle. Available at the Upshift store Here.

Available in 3 sizes • 20” x 3/4” - $9.00 • 25” x 3/4” - $10.00 • XL32” x 1” -$11.00

E FOR R U NS T N RA E T DV

D E M

THE BENCHMARK FOR URBAN ADVENTURE, TOURING AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN. The new Tiger 900 GT range represents a transformation in road-focused adventure capability with powerful and responsive performance, premium speciďŹ cation technology and equipment, and an aggressive new style. The Tiger 900 GT and the even higher speciďŹ cation GT Pro are designed to give you everything you need for maximum road focused adventure riding. With 10% more torque than the previous generation, and even more torque low down, plus higher overall power (94 peak horsepower) across the entire rev range from an all-new higher capacity 900cc triple engine, these Tigers set a new category benchmark. Find out more, visit triumphmotorcycles.com

3. Sena Launches New Flagship 50r & 50s Communication Devices Sena Technologies, Inc., the global leader in Bluetooth® communication devices for Powersport is proud to announce the North American release of its new Bluetooth® 5 flagship communication devices, the 50R and 50S featuring Sena’s groundbreaking Mesh 2.0 Intercom technology. To celebrate this highly anticipated event, Sena will be offering two exciting ways for current Mesh Intercom™ customers to experience the robust reliability of Mesh 2.0 www.sena.com.

The 50R Mesh 2.0 Intercom couples Sena’s most advanced technology to date with a low-profile, sleek yet rugged design. Tested and proven by over 100 competitors and staff across the wilds of New Zealand during the Int. GS Trophy 2020, the 50R continues Sena’s long tradition of Advancing Adventure. With its sleek good looks, rugged durability, and next-level technology, the form and function of the 50R combine to set a new standard for motorcycle communication.

• Mesh 2.0: Robust Reliability • One-Click-to-Connect simplicity-mesh Intercom™ features superior audio quality • Multi-channel protocol in Open Mesh allows users to switch between 9 comm channels • Bluetooth® 5 enabled • Sena’s new benchmark for HD speakers

It’s time for an all-new experience of riding connected. The Sena 50S Mesh 2.0 Intercom brings significant advancements to motorcycle communication. With an exceptional communication network and finely-tuned high-definition speakers, the 50S continues the goal of keeping riders connected on their journey.

• Mesh 2.0: Robust Reliability • One-Click-to-Connect Mesh Intercom™ with superior audio quality

• Bluetooth® 5 enabled • Redesigned HD Speakers optimized for boosted performance in volume, bass, and clarity

• Voice-activated digital assistant access (“Hey Google”/”Hey Siri”)

• 30% faster rapid charging • Automatic firmware updates via the included WiFi Adapter • A tried-and-true glove-friendly jog dial design • Multi-language voice command support

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THE NEW POINT OF

DEPARTURE

EMBRACE YOUR ESCAPE. THE HARDEST CHOICE YOU’LL MAKE ON THE 2020 SUZUKI V-STROM IS WHEN TO HEAD HOME. Strike awe with new styling inspired by the iconic DR-Z800 Dakar Rally bike & DR-Big. Command higher peak V-twin power without sacrificing low-end torque. Feel more capable across different terrain with Advanced Traction Control, Drive Mode Selector, and a new electronic Ride-by-Wire throttle system that delivers smooth, precise engine response. With so many adventures ahead, it’s time to make your exit.

V-STROM 1050XT ADVENTURE

EXPERIENCE THE V-STROM AT SUZUKICYCLES.COM Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2020 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.

V-STROM 1050XT

WIDE OPEN

SAUDI ARABIA

PHOTO: RALLY ZONE

WIDE OPEN

LEAVENWORTH, WASHINGTON

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

WIDE OPEN

SONORA RALLY, MEXICO

PHOTO: JUSTIN W. COFFEY

WIDE OPEN

SONORA RALLY, MEXICO

PHOTO: JUSTIN W. COFFEY

BEPPEDIENA ADV

GRAVEL-T GRAVEL-T

GRAVEL-T is our range of 100% waterproof soft bags, designed for Adventure Touring and off-road use. The GRT709 Canyon bags are a pair of soft saddlebags that give the same functionality and volume of a set of hard aluminum cases, without the weight and bulk. They are easy to attach and remove, lockable and built to last, rugged enough to protect the side of your motorcycle from minor impacts. MOUNTING PLATES: the included mounting plates are made of high impact nylon, and they fit the majority of side case mounts available on the market. REMOVABLE INNER BAGS: 100% waterproof, we decided for the bright yellow fabric to make it easier to spot what you need, even in low light conditions. M.O.L.L.E. READY: plenty of webbing on the side and on the bottom, the bags also come with a kit of 10 M.O.L.L.E. compatible clips.

GIVIUSA.COM

WIDE OPEN

AMERICAN FALLS, IDAHO

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

WIDE OPEN

ROCK ISLAND, WASHINGTON

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

WIDE OPEN

MALHEUR NATIONAL FOREST, OREGON

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

No helmet can protect the wearer against all foreseeable impacts. Nothing is a substitute for safe riding practices. ÂŠ2020 Arai Helmet

WIDE OPEN

ALABAMA HILLS, CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

COLORADO ROCKIES

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

WIDE OPEN

OLDFIELD, NEVADA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

DUMONT DUNES, CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

TAY E P E R R Y CHASING THE DREAM AT THE 2020 DAKAR AND SONORA RALLY I had been planning for the Sonora Rally since early 2019, while simultaneously selling pieces of my soul to get my ass on the Dakar Rally starting line. I would be one of the first South African women to race that notorious competition on a motorcycle. For the record, I made it to the start – and proved many wrong by finishing. Somehow the whole adventure pulled together with the help of the Sonora Rally organizers, a sponsor in Salt Lake City, Glen Grundy, and a few incredible people in my corner of the ring. It took 38 hours of half-full flights and connections to finally reach the USA from South Africa, all whilst the Coronavirus was spiraling out of control. Some might have said it was the worst time for me to be traveling. I’d say, in a way, it was the best, and right on time too. It’s quite amazing how things work out when you’re in the habit of rolling with the punches and making the best of situations. If given the opportunity, I wouldn’t change a thing. This would be my very first time in the Americas – mostly Utah and the Southwest. From Salt Lake City, Glen and I hopped onto another, mostly empty, short flight to Phoenix, followed by a quick drive to Tucson. This was where our road trip (in a rented RV) would begin, but not before battling to find me a helmet and riding jacket which would relatively fit, or at least do the job, as mine never arrived. It was a horrible game of cat and mouse with the shipping companies.

PHOTOS BY WESTX1000 (JUSTIN W. COFFEY, MIGUEL SANTANA, AND STEVE GREEN)

Everything was a mess thanks to the pandemic. Frustration and anxiety were not the emotions I had hoped to start with at the event. But one competitor managed to bring me the perfect helmet on their way down to the race from California, and the folks at WESTx1000 – Sonora Rally’s media team – would somehow hook me up with the exact same jacket I had originally planned on using, which was serendipitous because at 5’2”, finding a fit for me isn’t the easiest thing to do. Not being in my own kit put me in an odd mental state (me being the control freak I am). We caravaned with the Rally Pan Am team for a bit, before

TAYE PERRY CHASING THE DREAM

heading down to a cool little Mexican city called Hermosillo, where I met the awesome Sonora crew and the rest of the North American competitors. It’s there, from the Sonoran state capital, the teams would officially take off for five days and four nights of blood, sweat and tears. Being so far from home, quite alone in a strange place, I almost opted to simply hide out in my hotel room until absolutely necessary. That’s what makes rally so great: solitude, relying only on your gut and your wits to help you through the obstacles. But at the bivouac, you don’t have that sort of isolation. One morning, I took one look at the sea of faces in the dining area and thought, no thanks. I would’ve happily gone hungry, but lucky for me, a familiar face popped up – giving me the shove I needed (and appreciated). A girl’s got to eat! I then started bumping into a few more familiar faces, including Skyler Howes, who I’d met at Dakar (the highest placing privateer at the 2020 Dakar), and one of my Rally Pan Am teammates Nathan Rafferty. I also met Ricky Brabec, who historically won Dakar this past January. The bike rented from Rally Pan Am (RPA) was a stock standard FE501 Husqvarna, straight out of the crate. There were a few modifications: a long range fuel tank, a steering damper and a roadbook holder, but that was all. RPA owner, Alex Martins, did a bit of suspension setup based on my measurements. There’s always more setup that can be done, especially when you’re 5’2” and 125 lbs, but the bike would do the job just fine.

TAYE PERRY CHASING THE DREAM

Starting from P28 (28th position), it seems I quickly surpassed quite a few expectations of those who may have underestimated me. I couldn’t blame them. It’s easy to look at me, this short, curly haired girl who’s too afraid to chat them up at breakfast and think, how could she possibly be a threat? But there’s an advantage in that. It’s the biggest mistake my adversaries could make. After special-stage one, I moved up 16 positions, crossing the field to 12th despite some heavy speeding penalties. It wasn’t at all easy adapting to a different setup of roadbook, rules and GPS, but man, did I love the challenge!

loving life on my bike, riding through what I can only describe as some of the most perfect desert racing conditions on earth. The rains had turned the terrain into pure pleasure, and I couldn’t get enough of it. All I wanted to do was go as fast as I could over the insanely beautiful terrain of Mexico. More so, it was exciting, and quite surprising, to be chasing the mere four tire tracks in front of me. I was having a hell of a time out there! Unfortunately, the fun would end almost two kilometers from the timing flags in Part 1 of the specials in stage three. From ‘hero to zero’ is what it felt like. So, I had to remind myself to simply breathe and keep inching forward because according to my roadbook, the finish of the stage was literally 1.7 kilometer away. Ever push a dead bike through sand? Uphill? It’s soul destroying. And when several guys flew past, throwing thumbs up at me, I thought to myself, you better speed up. I’ll be hunting you all down again shortly. Honestly, I was kind of furious with myself. I had believed I had plenty of fuel for the distance, and yet, here I was. Which is exactly why I kept pushing my bike onward to the stage end, stopping to catch my breath every few hundred meters – my heart pumping with adrenaline. I lost almost 40 minutes there, and worse, my top 5 seat in the rankings. The hurdle slipped me back about 10 places. But that’s racing! It’s never over until you decide it is. You could dwell on it, but that gets you nowhere. Instead, I put it all behind me and went right back to business for Part 2 of the special.

TAYE PERRY CHASING THE DREAM

After stages two and three, I had comfortably slipped into 5th place,

TAYE PERRY CHASING THE DREAM

My bike was abnormally heavy-handed with fuel, and when the longest dune stage came, it wouldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve required a miracle from my fuel tank to see us to the end. I made the conscious decision to ride low revs and high gear for the racing special. It was highly frustrating, because the dunes were so sweet to race on that day! All I wanted to do was twist my throttle, and it became a mental fight to stay focused on simply finishing. All I really wanted was to make up positions and, in a word, fly. The bait was there, dangling in front of me, begging me to chase it, but there I was, on my own

TAYE PERRY CHASING THE DREAM

self-imposed leash. I placed P14 on that day, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better than not placing at all. I let loose on the final stage, surfing the landscape, pushing any fueling issues out of mind. Another big dune day with a splash fueling zone near the end of the stage. But this time, I was able to select the proverbial playlist and dance to it, which meant I could find my pace again. Mud, standing water, a rain beaten landscape to die for, plus cloudy skies made it the perfect day for me. I love it when the weather gets involved. I had the most fun this day, and it was over way too soon. Overall, I ended up in P9. I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have nearly enough training or bike time as I would have liked, so every hour chasing tracks was fantastic, and I was super happy to have finished in the top 10 overall. I feel privileged and honored to have been a part of the Yokohama Sonora Rally 2020, especially at a time when no other racing was happening across the globe, and when the racing conditions in Mexico were nothing short of perfect. The organizers did an amazing job managing the growing situation. Darren and Erin did everything they could to keep us safe and give us a sanctuary before we went back to reality. The bivouacs were places to kick back, enjoy good food and catch up with fellow riders and crew. I met so many more people in the riding community at Sonora and still think that the passion for motorsport was on another level there.

TAYE PERRY CHASING THE DREAM Next year I’ll definitely be back for revenge. (Kidding…) I’ll be back to have fun on my dirt bike through some insane terrain and spend (maybe a little more) time with incredible people. The bug has bitten. Now that it’s all said and done, I’ll be doing some social distancing in the Wild West on a dirt bike somewhere far from everyone, a happy compromise as all my flights have been canceled and travel banned. But if the glass is half full, I have a chance to train, to see new regions, and to meet new people – with six feet between us, of course. Even as I travel into the sunset and the Sonora Rally steadily becomes a distant memory overshadowed by a pandemic, know that I’m already planning my next US race, for when the chaos calms and the quarantines are lifted, I’ll be back, I’ll be better, and I’ll be taking names. In the meantime, I’ll be staying safe along with everyone else, and remaining hopeful. As someone wise once said, “This too shall pass.”

LAS ME

EJORES RUTAS RURALES It is difficult after 4 years and nearly 60000km through South America to choose our top roads and passes. When people ask, we usually bumble off so many that you could write a book. How do you decide which are the best? Some passes are only 20km long, some include asphalt and/or dirt, and they all navigate such various terrain. For us personally, the best is a combination of eye-wateringly engaging passes that traverse landscapes too beautiful to put into words. Of course, those out-of-the-way, unknown paths always climb the ranks of any adventurerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite journeys. We have spent countless hours looking and researching places and roads to explore. Our memories are overloaded with the sensations, images, and experiences we have encountered. We have stumbled on some pretty groovy roads that blow our expectations clean out of the water. There are so many routes worth sharing that it would take a book to pen them all. Alas, we will share a few that have left a long lasting impression on us. This is the first of a two-part series showing you some of the crazy passes and roads in South America.

Words and Photos by Michnus Olivier

E C U A D O R Border to Limoncocha and the Amazon Region Let me say this upfront: Ecuador is a small, power-packed, hard-hitting destination. You can go from the Amazon, to riding through the Andes, to cruising along the sea and sipping a beer on a beach eating Ceviche, all in a single day depending on the route you choose. As we entered Ecuador, we hit a bit of asphalt and then turned left onto a dirt road that was not really on any maps. Only later did we hear most people do not ride this as it is a Colombian-Ecuadorian corridor for drugs and illegal wood. Taking this back road was one of the best decisions. The mountains and landscapes were numbing the faculties. It was simply incredible to experience; riding on the rim of one side of the valley under tremendous tree overhangs, while Colombia rested in the distance on the other side of the valley. We have never seen so many waterfalls. They were everywhere as far as we rode, and some at 3000m (9800ft) altitude. This 175km (108 miles) route was almost all dirt road with small pieces on tar close to the towns. The route is dangerous when it rains, as possible landslides can block the road. Landslides are part of life in South America so always ask the locals and look at the weather forecast.

E C U A D O R Chimborazo - Quilotoa We were on our way from Chimborazo volcano to a small town and aimed to arrive at the Quilotoa Lake the next day. We checked paper maps, Google, MAPS.ME, the stars, and even consulted a sextant for routes. One route had all the hall markings of a fun ride. It was extremely twisty and was marked on one map in white, which meant it was not a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;normalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; road. An early morning start got us riding down massive dirt passes, and climbing up others. The further we went, the narrower the track became. It was mostly uphill rocky climbs and although we did not struggle, it was slow going. Eventually we realized only locals with donkeys traversed this road and no bloody cars had been on this track for a long time. We were rewarded with fun and beauty that is still etched in my brain today. Mesmerizing grass altiplanos; breathtaking views above the clouds; and dirt roads to connect them all. We stopped often to take in the views, as we had never seen such unbelievable expanses running into tomorrow. We were truly riding on top of the world. This road is 250km (155 miles) and at 4300m (14100ft) altitude, there was nothing around us for miles.

P E R U North - Caramaba to Puente Viru Nothing sanitized about this track. You have to focus and pay attention. Hairpin bends arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the same here as the nice, neat ones in the EU. Every turn and bend is different, with different poison coming at you. We decided to see the famous Dakar Rally start in Lima. We headed towards the coast to hit the Pan-Am to make headway as riding in the mountains just took up too much time. I told Elsebie over the intercom that something had to change as we had to drop from 3000m (9800ft) altitude to sea level and we were less than 100km (60 miles) away. As we went through a cutting in the mountain, a view greeted us that dilated our pupils to the size of dinner plates. It felt like we were at the top of a roller coaster looking down. 3500m (11500ft) altitude, and in the distance, the sea was a straight line about 50km (30miles) away. From up here it looked like a quick walk in the park, yeah right! The magnitude of the scenery and landscapes in Peru are bewildering at times. The size of the mountains, canyons, rivers, everything is almost supersized. It took us the best part of 2-3 hours to ride down. Two vehicles cannot pass each other on this route, it is right on the edge. This is also not the place to be if you suffer vertigo, and if you planned on going over the edge, you will have to set up camp as you will be there for a while. This route is 80km (50miles) and a worthy ride.

P E R U Rainbow Gorge - Concotcha To Oyón We wanted to skip Lima and stay inland, but Peru being Peru, there are no easy shortcuts. The Andes Mountains make bloody sure of that. So, for our planning, it was either Lima or way back into the Amazon area. Both would have taken a long time and involve sitting on tar in traffic without a freaking option. We found a route; it looked dodgy and there were some pins on iOverlander.com that mentioned the ONE bridge, a pillar of society, we had to cross, that was not in good standing. The other small conundrum, the routes we could follow on our maps were a bit vague and did not really work out well. We ended up routing it in sections and the total time showed a long day ahead in the saddle. The reward was finding what we named ‘Rainbow Gorge,’ something so spectacular we lost a few hours taking photos and riding slowly to truly experience the incredible landscape. It is so rewarding to find these little gems. We debated about how strange it was that a place like this was not on the main tourist attraction list of Peru. No tourists, as it is nearly impossible for tourists to venture here without their own vehicles. It took us about an hour or more to descend into the riverbed with all the switchbacks. Straight down it could not have been more than a mile or so. The color of the soil on this mountain ranged from purple, blueish, red-orange and green with numerous shades in between. There were lines of colors meters wide with different colors running next to each other. The total track eventually took us two days to ride. There was not a single 50m stretch of dirt that was straight along this 335km (208 miles) route. The route is not for those who get dizzy easily. In the rain and snow it would certainly be impassable.

P E R U Cerro de Passo - La Union This route was suggested to us by a local miner in Cerro de Passo. It is a mining road through the Andes mountains to the interior of Peru. They are still mining up in the mountains, and the miners are supposed to maintain the roads. However, they see this more as a suggestion than a rule. The route traverses over the mountains a couple of times with a scenery combination of canyons, plateaus and white snowcapped mountains in the distance. The best part is it runs through the Cordillera Huayhuash, Zona Reservada Cordillera Hayhuash National Park. The park has all the signs of a small piece of heaven with its snowcapped mountains and turquoise lakes. We passed farms with llamas and alpacas roaming around and reached over 4800m(15700ft) altitude when riding into the small town of Oyon. From here is where the next part of the fun started. The dirt road climbs out a pass with views back into the valley. The snow of mountain Kuntursinqa was visible from the top of the pass. Crossing over the top, the incredible view over the back part of the Andes stretched as far as Lake Lauricocha. This lake is still at 3800m altitude with the most beautiful turquoise water fed by the surrounding glaciers and snow-covered peaks. The view over the valley is stuff of biblical paintings. We stopped for an hour to have some coffee and a shot of rum to warm up. The entire 166km route is made up of passes, switchbacks and views that will be carved into your memory for life. The route is not advisable in the rain or snow. We did encounter some rain but were lucky to be on a good stretch at the time. Check out Part 2 of Michnus Olivier’s “The Best Country Roads in South America” feature in our next Issue.

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Being under a stay-at-home order is a pretty solid opportunity if you look at it the right way. The ever descriptive “they” said you had to stay home, but you can do pretty much anything you want while you’re there. So instead of scrolling the news or waging a keyboard war over Coronavirus with one of your in-laws on Facebook, use this time to get ready for when it’s time to get back out there and ride. Being stuck at home is a fantastic excuse to spend some quality wrench time with your bike – and I’m willing to bet that you’ll feel better after an evening spent turning wrenches than after an evening spent scrolling that news feed. So let’s look at a number of maintenance jobs that many riders love to scroll past on their bike’s maintenance schedule. Motorcycles are complex machines comprised of a number of fluids and a pile of parts that all wear out and need replacing at different intervals. Doing regular oil changes and keeping your air filter clean are great things to keep on top of, but ask yourself – when was the last time you bled your brakes or changed your coolant? What about servicing your suspension or truing your wheels? If you’ve ever been called upon to help a buddy out who picked up a used bike where you only find neglect and a lack of proper maintenance the further you get into it – you know exactly which maintenance tasks I’m talking about. Not only will putting in some quality wrench time with your bike make your riding experience safer and more enjoyable, but you’ll be less likely to have a mechanical issue on a ride if everything on your bike is in tip top mechanical shape. To be able to accurately track maintenance intervals on your bike you need to have a way to track hours or miles depending on the type of bike you have. Many ADV bikes schedule their service intervals in miles, so you can just use the bike’s odometer or one of the trip meters. Yet most dirtbikes will schedule their service intervals in hours, and there are quite a few bikes out there that do not come from the factory with an hour meter of any kind. Without an hour meter, you’re just making a best guess as to how many hours you put on your bike since your last service, and it’s important to remember that just because you were away from home for 10 hours of riding, doesn’t mean that you actually put 10 hours on your bike. Adding an hour meter is quite easy, thanks to TrailTech’s TTO Meter. These little guys install in minutes and track total hours, a resettable interval of hours (that’s the no math part), have a clock, measure RPM, and peak RPM. Even if your dirt bike has an hour meter built into the computer (KTMs require the front wheel to be spinning to keep the computer awake), adding a TTO is still an easy way to add a resettable meter that you can use for oil changes or whatever you want to track. By Chad de Alva

The other key thing you need in order to stay on top of your maintenance is some type of log. This can be an excel spreadsheet, a journal, or whatever system works for you that allows you to record everything you do, and at how many hours (or miles) said work was done. A log will allow you to track how long wear parts are living, and with the help of the service schedule in your manual, predict when you’re going to need to perform other maintenance work. Plus, it lets you show a potential buyer of your bike that you’ve actually taken care of it. With a way to record hours or miles on your bike and a way to record service performed sorted, let’s dig into a few of those maintenance jobs that some bikes never get – but that every bike should. The first task is all about grease, and taking the time to grease everything that needs grease on your bike. Every time a wheel comes off your bike, you should be cleaning and reinstalling your wheels with fresh grease. But there’s a number of other places on your bike that need to see an occasional cleaning and application of grease too. Fail to grease these other components, and you may one day go to pull that part off your bike only to watch rusty, dirty, bearing parts fall to your shop floor never to be found again. Your manual will detail all of the places on your bike that need to see grease, but a few key points to hit are the steering tube, swingarm, and shock linkage (if your bike has one). Take the time to pull things all the way apart and make sure that every part is cleaned and still in good shape (that clunk your bike makes may mean you need new linkage bearings) before they get a good application of grease. When it comes to your steering bearings, take your front wheel and fork legs off so that you can really get good coverage on your bearings and races. I’ve seen other riders attempt to do this with the front wheel and fork legs on and it’s pretty entertaining to watch someone try and get their top bearing fully seated while they’re trying to fight the weight of the forks and front wheel. If you’re going to do something, do it right, take your time, and use a quality grease.

Next up are your wheels. Just like every other fastener on your bike, your spoke nipples have a torque spec, and they need to be checked from time to time to make sure that they’re properly torqued. Depending on where you ride and how hard you run into rocks and other obstacles you may also need to true your rim, which is the process of removing (or reducing) any wobble or run out your wheel has developed. Checking your spokes for proper torque and truing your wheels can take some time, so make sure it’s a chore you take on when you’re not rushed. I’ll also throw out the idea of balancing your wheels (with tires installed) while you’ve got them in the truing stand. This is mandatory on bikes that see pavement use, but I’ve been really enjoying having balanced wheels on my dirtbikes too. It’s one of those things where once you do it, you wonder why you didn’t start doing it sooner. The same can also be said of servicing your forks.

Servicing your forks isn’t anywhere near as hard as it sounds, and like anything else, there’s a number of great videos on the University of YouTube that will show you how to do the job. You’ll need a few specialized tools, but again, a good video will call out how to do the work and list the tools that you need. Just be honest with yourself before you dive in. If you don’t feel comfortable about doing the work, have a suspension shop or your dealer do the work for you. Chances are your manual specs a fork oil change after the first few hours of use, and then fresh oil every few dozen hours of use. So if you stick to this schedule, you’ll find it yourself doing fork oil changes every few motor oil changes. Shocks, on the other hand, are more involved. To bleed a WP PDS shock for example, you need a vacuum pump and a nitrogen tank to properly bleed the shock oil and to charge the shock with nitrogen – but the tools are out there if you want to take it on. Again, your dealer or your suspension shop can turn around a shock quickly, and they can also make sure that your suspension is correctly set up for you as a rider, which is definitely worth doing.

Depending on how old your bike is, now may be a great time to look into bleeding your brakes (and your clutch if it’s hydraulic). This is another job where having the right tools makes all the difference, and the more painless you can make a given task, the more likely you will do the task the next time it’s needed. A good brake bleeder and a few bottles of fluid are all you need to breathe new life into your brake system. You’ll find that fresh fluid that hasn’t hydrated or hasn’t managed to trap any air bubbles makes for a brake with more power and modulation of that power. While you’re at it, take a peek at the other parts of your brake system to see if you need new pads or rotors and take a few minutes to give your calipers some TLC too. If you’ve been needing to install a rear brake light switch, now is a great time to do so.

Likewise, draining your bike’s old coolant and filling your bike with fresh coolant is another easy way to help ensure that your bike is in good running order. Spend the few extra bucks to get a high quality coolant, like what’s recommended in your bike’s manual. Doing this will help protect your bike from overheating and ensure that your coolant isn’t trying to actively eat away at your bike from the inside out. Please dispose of used coolant and all used fluids responsibly. This list of maintenance tasks could keep going and going, but in the interest of keeping the number of items on the list to a manageable size, I’ll leave you with three more tasks. First, do a bolt check. Start at one end of the bike and work toward the other, checking every fastener with the correct torque spec sourced from your manual. Second, if you’ve noticed that your bike has been getting louder of late, now would be a great time to repack your muffler. Even if your bike’s sound hasn’t changed, if you haven’t repacked your muffler in some time, you might as well get it done. Don’t be that rider with the loud bike that gets riding areas closed. And lastly, lube those cables. If you’ve got a sticky throttle or a cable clutch that takes way too much effort to pull, you’ll be amazed what a little cleaning and lubing can do. Finally, while you’re doing all of this maintenance, it would be a great time to reassess your tool kit that you carry with you while riding. Spend time going over each item in your kit and make sure that it’s something that you need, and not just dead weight or bulk. When you think you’ve got your kit sorted – put it to the test by working on your bike at home and noting what you used, what you wished you had, and what was excess. Even if you think you have your tool kit dialed, check it over to make sure that it’s still everything you want it to be. Be sure that you have consumable things like tape, quik steel, safety wire, and any extra fasteners in your kit. If you use something in the field, make a note to restock it when you get home. With a well appointed and fully stocked tool kit, you’ll be able to tackle almost any mechanical that happens while riding.

Owning a bike is an investment in your happiness, and to get the most happiness out of your bike you need to take care of it. I’m sure we’ve all seen that rider who has a bike that constantly breaks down on rides or just runs like crap, and chances are that rider gets mad at their bike, and yeah…is just not fun to be around. Yet on the other end of the spectrum, riders who care for their bikes get to enjoy machines that are operating at or near their peak level of performance, and you’ll find that these riders are getting a lot more smiles per gallon than riders who just flog their bikes and never give them any love. I know that with spring quickly turning into summer, the temptation to ride is only getting stronger by the day, but let’s use this hopefully brief period of “stay-at-home” to make sure that our bikes are in tip top shape and ready to go, so that when these shelter in place restrictions get lifted, we can spend our time riding as much as possible. Netflix will always be there, but great riding conditions won’t, so make sure your bike is fully ready to ride.

TESTED

BY Blake Draguesku

PRO CIRCUIT TI-6 EXHAUST SYSTEM When making changes to your machine, a fancy exhaust system is usually pretty high on the list of desired modifications. Better sound, more power, less weight and factory-looks are all improvements that virtually any rider would gladly bestow upon their beloved motorcycle. Lucky for us, there are a number of options to choose from when shopping for an exhaust system that can turn your dual sport (or closed-course competition bike) up a notch or two. Once the itch to install an aftermarket exhaust system on my 2020 Husqvarna FX450 became too strong, I ended up pulling the trigger on Pro Circuit’s Ti-6 titanium exhaust system. First impressions out of the box are that the system is both incredibly lightweight and very attractive. An unmistakable raw titanium sheen, precision TIG-welded construction, and a stamped titanium plate on the header pipe’s resonance chamber that reads “Pro Circuit Racing Development” all make it clear that this premium exhaust will be a very special addition to your bike. The system comes with a removable US Forest Service-approved spark arrestor insert, a fresh header gasket and a small packet of fitting grease, which is applied to the exhaust port and header-to-silencer fittings during installation.

PRO CIRCUIT TI-6 EXHAUST SYSTEM In the case of my FX450, the exhaust system only took about 15 minutes to install and effectively shortened the overall length of the header pipe by about 5 inches by eliminating the large downward curve that is found on the stock header pipe. After everything was buttoned back up, I cleaned the exhaust system thoroughly with contact cleaner prior to starting up the bike for the first time. This ensured that there wouldn’t be any leftover oil/grease residue on the exhaust that would otherwise bake into the metal and cause undesirable blemishes. The FX450 barked to life with a noticeably more sinister note than it had with the stock system and idled with a pleasant, whole and resonant thump. Riding the bike for the first time since installing the exhaust, I immediately noticed that the “hit” of the 450cc race-bred engine seemed to be packing a stronger punch, delivering instantaneous power when prompted by a quick whack of throttle. Once fully warmed up and riding at pace, I noticed that the motorcycle was pulling harder throughout the entire RPM range, but especially in the midrange, where the exhaust system seemed to have freed up a great deal of torque. Exhaling through the Pro Circuit Ti-6 exhaust, the note produced by the engine is definitely louder than stock, but thankfully it is not obnoxiously loud. In my estimation, the “bark” of the motorcycle is now directly proportional to its “bite”. As the titanium exhaust is subjected to heat cycle after heat cycle, the header pipe begins bluing. Coloration first appears at the exhaust port and then slowly begins spreading throughout the length of the pipe in curious shades of blue and purple. This was really neat to watch, as the coloring of the exhaust appeared different each time I stepped off the bike during the first 15 hours of use. The saliva-inducing sights and sounds of the Pro Circuit Ti-6 exhaust system come with a price tag of just over $1,000 USD. This may seem hefty for a couple lengths of titanium pipe and a carbon fiber end cap, but after handling and examining this exhaust system, and logging over 20 hours of seat time with it, I can tell you that it was money wellspent, at least if you’re a performance junky and exhaust audiophile like me. www.procircuit.com

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1st in class 4th overall (9 seconds off the podium) Bike: KTM 790 Adventure R Rider: Wes VanNieuwenhuise Constructor: Chris Parker/Rottweiler Performance

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2 0 2 0 K T M 39 0 AD V E N T URE KTM celebrates 22 years of adventure by building its lightest and most affordable ADV bike in the 390 Adventure. When it comes to hard core adventure bikes, no company builds a more capable do-it-all platform than KTM. Problem is the orange bike’s capability has always come with a hefty cost of ownership—until now. Meet KTM’s lightest and most affordable ADV rig: the 373-pound (fully fueled) 2020 390 Adventure ($6199). Positioned as a gateway into the exciting see-everything world of ADV riding, in KTM spirit, this highly adjustable and feature-rich 390 is anything but entry-level. The 390 Adventure is powered by the Orange Brigade’s liquid-cooled and fuel-injected 373cc single. A pair of overhead camshafts work the four-valve cylinder head, and KTM says the engine is good for 43 horsepower and 27 lb-ft torque. It drinks from a generous sized 3.83-gallon fuel tank that offers a range of over 200 miles between fill-ups.

WORDS: FREDDIE LEXX

PHOTOS: Brian Sheffer

Power is put back to a 17-inch cast alloy wheel with 50/50 style (designed for both road and off-road) Continental TKC 70 rubber. A six-speed transmission with manual cable-actuated clutch and left-hand side chain final drive make up the remainder of the powertrain. Alloy and plastic skid plates protect the bottom of the engine. Riders that plan on tackling rocky and more difficult terrain will want to invest in KTM’s heavy-duty aluminum skid plate available as an accessory. This KTM single-cylinder is a peppy little motor that delivers decent ‘oomph for its displacement. The engine is perfectly capable of cruising at freeway speeds and triple digits aren’t out of the question, either. Although the thumper benefits from a counterbalancer, there is a fair degree of vibration felt through the controls and enough to cloud the view from the mirrors. Still, we won’t say the buzz is excessive based on its price point. Our test bike was fitted with KTM’s optional electronic quickshifter (KTM USA hasn’t released pricing on this accessory) permitting full-throttle, clutchless up and down shifting. A performance-oriented feature typically reserved for more expensive motorcycles, the quickshifter is a welcome upgrade. It makes the 390 feel faster with no pause in acceleration when rowing through the gearbox. On the road, the gear ratios perform well, however, when riding off pavement in the SoCal desert, there is a noticeable gap between second and third cogs. The solution: ride faster in third gear, or slower in second.

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No other bike at this price comes with lean angle sensitive traction control and ABS, but the 390 Adventure does. The system uses an IMU (chip used in modern smartphones) to give it positional awareness in relation to the ground. Engine and hydraulic brake power are smartly curtailed based on vehicle position, control input, and available grip. Traction control can be disabled if you desire wheel spin during dirt riding escapades. Furthermore, there is an ‘Off-Road’ ABS setting that allows rear wheel lock. Front ABS, however, is fixed, per European government mandates that apply to 2020 model year motorcycles. A five-inch color TFT display keeps tabs on things. It’s the same setup KTM uses on its 790 Adventure. It automatically brightens based on ambient light and riders can also select a ‘dark mode’ setting (white fonts on black background).

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Handlebar-mounted switchgear is used to manipulate display and vehicle settings. Menu navigation is intuitive, but the fonts could be larger. A plethora of trip settings are available including range, MPG and other ride metrics. Additionally, the dash can be paired with a smartphone via KTM’s proprietary ‘My Ride’ navigation app ($7.99 on the iOS app store). Although we haven’t used this app, KTM says the program provides riders with live turn-by-turn navigation. Seated at the controls, the 390 feels thin between the rider’s legs with a pleasing upright handlebar bend. We also appreciate the plastic handguards which protect your mitts from the elements and provide a degree of crash protection. Frame-mounted crash bars provide more protection in the event of a tip over.

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In typical orange spirit, the 390 is loaded with adjustability. From the height of the handlebar and windscreen, to the position of the control levers and brake pedal— riders can tweak everything for a more comfortable experience in the saddle. Big serrated footpegs and a sharp rear brake pedal are pleasant additions, as is the adjustable suspension with nearly seven-inches of travel. The 43mm WP fork has independent and tool-less compression and rebound damping circuits. The direct-mount PDS style (no linkage) shock adds spring preload adjustment, in addition to return damping adjustment. Where other companies’ entry-level ADV bikes feel limited, especially in the suspension department, the 390 is vastly more capable. Of course, the suspenders aren’t as resilient or heavy-duty as a big bike, but considering its size, they don’t have to be. What’s most impressive is the well-calibrated action, especially in terms of return damping after rolling over large bumps or G-outs. The OE-fitted TKC 70 tires provide great grip on pavement and perform well off of it, too. Serious adventurers will desire a sharper knob but if you’re planning on riding anywhere and everywhere, you won’t go wrong with these shoes. A radial-mount four-piston BYBRE (Brembo’s Indian subsidiary) squeeze a sportbike-sized 320mm front rotor mounted on a 19-inch die-cast alloy wheel, while a 230mm disc and single-piston caliper handle rear braking duties. Both brakes are actuated through fade-resistant stainless-steel hoses— yet another premium feature at this price. Styling wise, you’ll be hard pressed to tell the difference between the 390 and its 790 big brother. We dig the praying Mantis front end, and the bright LED headlamp illuminates pitch black roads. The rear side panels look like they are ready to slap numbers on for your next rally race to work. Although KTM has made great strides in terms of build quality, some of the fasteners and the narrow front axle look of lower quality. Still, considering its high-level of competency and rich feature set, you can’t deny the exceptional value and performance KTM offers with its new 390 Adventure.

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ADV A/C E P I C A I R F LOW R OA D - R E A DY P R OT E C T I O N O F F- R OA D M O B I L I T Y N E W B A JA S4 JAC K E T & PA N T

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BACK COUNTRY DISCOVERY ROUTE - PART 2

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY OLIVIER DE VAULX

Gold Rush and Snow / Winter gold rush The Nevada BDR is a difficult trip to plan. This backcountry road can be cut into two parts: the Southern leg which traverses lower elevation areas, and the Northern leg which goes up into the mountains. This means that while the Southern half will be too hot in the summer, the Northern half will be covered in snow during the winter. In other words, there’s little chance that the whole route can be done in a single trip. Knowing that our attempt to ride on the CA BDR during the winter (documented in Upshift issue #42) brought us very close to Tonopah, NV, located in the middle of this NV BDR, it was tempting to try the Southern portion of the trip. Having already downloaded the GPS tracks from the ‘RideBDR’ website, and after three days in the California deserts, our fleet of Hondas was ready for the challenge. The XR650L, the CRF450L, and the Africa Twin just needed some fuel to go back on the dirt after one cold night parked in front of the Mizpah Hotel in Tonopah, NV.

Fighting the cold Knowing that the temperatures would be at their lowest two hours after sunrise, we were prepared that the start of the ride would be a bit tough. Starting at 7am, with the thermometer showing 25F, the first trails were indeed taken at a relatively slow pace, our fingers stuck in heavily insulated gloves and barely able to squeeze the levers or to twist the throttle. Luckily, the sunlight is not as rare as gold in Nevada, even above 6,000 ft, and we quickly warmed up as the colors in the desert became more saturated, making us feel as if we were starring in a technicolor movie. We already felt warmer when we reached Goldfield and its forest of cars. This land art project sounds fun on paper but from these rusty cars planted into the frozen ground exudes a mixed feeling of sadness and creativity. Yet, art is subjective and our take on it may have been influenced by the three days we spent in the open desert with very little contact with civilization. We didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stay long and followed Main Street to exit Goldfield, just to realize that the XRâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s front tire had a flat, caused by a rusty screw. We stopped between an antique steam locomotive inherited from the gold rush and an abandoned house with a confederate flag. Trying to work efficiently without being disturbed by ghosts of the past, we used a piece of wood to stabilize the 650L while we removed the front wheel and changed the tube. The whole operation took only a few minutes and gave us hope that we could still reach Gold Point, our next stop, in time for lunch. But we should have known better; as we make plans, God laughs.

Stuck in the snow The dirt on the very first miles of double track out of town was perfect and each rider used their bike at its full potential. That’s the kind of riding we look for, but the exhilarating experience was short-lived; we soon encountered a first patch of snow, and then more and more, until it formed a continuous white layer. Moving forward became a challenge, and we picked our lines trying to avoid both the deep snow and the ice patches. On their CRF450L and XR650L, François and Julie advanced with relative ease, finding traction with their Shinko MX216 knobbies while I felt like crawling at a turtle pace on the Africa Twin, struggling with its more prevalent Shinko E804. The key here was to use the momentum, trying to keep the balance and the traction at all costs. It was an exhausting workout and the Fly Racing Terra Treck jackets were soon too warm. We strapped them over our bags, and we kept fighting gravity. It would have been easier, and maybe smarter, to do a u-turn when it was obvious that the trails, going up in the mountains, weren’t going to be free of snow anytime soon. But we riders are somehow proud of being stubborn rebels, so why not try and see where it brings us? Yet, after eight excruciating miles, our foolishness was not rewarded, and the tracks just disappeared under a fresh blanket of snow. The tires broke the thick layer, but even with some speed and full power, the bikes were no match for the white mattress. Besides, our fuel consumption was getting a bit out of control and the gauges were already showing signs of distress. Riding back was the only option, despite adding more miles to the loop. Alas, going downhill was not easy in such slippery conditions, and François couldn’t brake in time before a tight corner and crashed, disappearing under the XR650L. Extracting himself from under the frame, his first words were to praise the Pod knee braces that just saved his knee! Relieved that all went well thanks to these rigid carbon protections, we kept going. A few minutes later, the Africa Twin was tricked by similar conditions, its non-disconnectable ABS on the front was unable to stop the heavy bike in time. Luckily, the outback Motortek crash bars were there to prevent any damage to the big Honda, and it was with more fear than harm that we kept going. Finally reaching a small highway, we gave a quick phone call to Walt, who lives in Gold Point, to check the availability of fuel in the ghost town. Finding our way around the mountains, we stayed in the valley and finally arrived without any more delay in front of the antique saloon, exhausted and thirsty like cowboys after a month-long horseback ride. Inside, the decoration of the room left no rest to the eyes, jumping from one artifact to another, from the framed black and white pictures to a vintage metallic ad for a long-gone brand. Sipping a fresh drink in the warm and colorful restaurant, we took the time to soak up the atmosphere, before following Walt to the gas station. Gold Point’s fuel service had nothing in common with a modern highway service area, and we filled our bikes from a huge, rusty fuel tank. The sun was lower already, January having the shortest days of the year, and it was time to head toward Beatty if we wanted to arrive before the night.

In the sandbox The next morning, the trails after Beatty crossed a rugged desert with a magnificent point of view over the valley, where we stopped to enjoy a hot coffee from our insulated bottles. Those are the kind of small moments where you feel privileged, being the only ones to enjoy such a panorama as mother nature awakes. The multiple layers of mountains on the horizon all wore different shades of blue, and after seeing the trail winding in this direction, we became even more excited about the day ahead. Yet, it was not an easy path, since our Voyager Pro GPS guided us through a 5 mile-long section of deep gravel. Using its big torque, the CRF1000 DCT compensated weight with power to follow the two little dual sports. But the trails suddenly changed, the dirt took over the gravel and the scenery brought back memories of Africa. We were suddenly in rally mode, twisting the throttle and going full speed through these vast plains, our motorcycles almost invisible in this vastness but betrayed by a gigantic cloud of dust. At this game, the stable and powerful Africa Twin was an easy winner, letting the two other bikes disappear in its mirrors. As it turned out, this success would soon be challenged. The route passed near Big Dune, a very descriptive name for what was indeed a big, uh, dune. Luckily, it is also a recreation area open to motorized vehicles and we couldn’t resist the opportunity. After all, the Dakar rally was won by an American rider for the first time, and we felt that riding this dune was a mandatory homage to the historic victory. Yet, none of us have Ricky Brabec’s skills or his CRF450 HRC Rally bike, so we were a bit worried in front of this giant wall of soft sand. Of the three bikes, the CRF450L was the easiest and, after taking turns on its seat, we quickly discovered how fun it is to play in this oversized sandbox; climbing the dunes in a loud roar, before leaning the bike at high speed and finally gliding our way down, trying to keep the front end light and in line. It was exhilarating, and soon François and Julie chased each other all over the place, while I tried to steer the heavier Africa Twin into banking turns big enough to dwarf the Daytona Speedway. With the wheels floating on the edge of the bigger dunes, we had a quick but exciting taste of Dakar, and realized, once again, how talented those riders are to take on the monster dunes day after day. Back on the gravel road, we made up some time at high speed until we reached Pahrump, NV. A quick refill, a snack, and here we were headed for the last leg of our journey through Nevada.

Rally mode While we expected the last 70+ miles to Primm to be somewhat easy and uneventful, we soon discovered that it would be the exact opposite. The two-track out of Pahrump was an excellent ride, with an abundance of tight corners, ruts, jumps, last-second line changes, berms, whoops…everybody was riding, once again, at the maximum of their ability and the potential of their bike. The suspensions of the big twin were way too soft for this ISDE-like ride, and they bottomed-out on many jumps, the engine saved by the robust ACD skid plate. On the motocross-based CRF450L, our teenage girl Julie gave a hard time to the 62-year-old veteran François riding the old school XR650L. They raced each other as they would on a track, at a pace not fully compatible with long-distance travel. The sun already started to set for the night, the light turning more yellow every minute. As the trail started winding into the mountain, we tried to keep a fast pace through the rocks. It put a tremendous strain on the Africa Twin’s rear tire which suddenly went flat. It was a bit late to change the tube and there were not so many miles left. With the help of a bottle of Slime and an electric tire inflater, we fixed the problem in no time and kept riding as the night settled. The big twin and its Cyclops LED headlights opened the way, illuminating the trails as the three bikes finally reached Primm in convoy. Loading the bikes on our trucks that we left there five days before, we then ordered a quick meal at the Greek Cafe to comment on this Nevada BDR.

It was cold in high elevation around Tonopah, difficult at times with the snow, but the sceneries and the quality of the riding were just awesome. Being so close to the CA BDR, this portion of the Nevada Backcountry Route is the perfect complement to its California counterpart and allows riders to make a great loop. Though the two routes are not geographically far from each other, the experience is nonetheless very different in terms of riding conditions as well as scenery and historical landmarks. Having ridden these two routes with no major problems (other than some minor detours), only ten days after a major storm buried California and Nevada under snow, we can encourage any ADV or dual sport rider looking for a winter experience to try this loop. Any big town on the itinerary is a potential start and end point of the journey, which makes it even easier to plan depending on where you come from. Whatever your expectations are, chances are they will be exceeded!

LIVE DRAWING

July 31, 2020

Support BDR and you could win this KTM Donating as little as $25 towards the BDR mission puts you in the running to win the ultimate BDR machine. This 2020 KTM 790 Adventure R features $9,000 worth of upgrades including:

Special thanks to:

• WP XPLOR PRO Suspension with Cone-Valve Forks • Special BDR Edition Graphics • Touratech Protection and Luggage Systems • Cyclops Aurora LED Auxiliary Lighting Kit Plus, we included a complete collection of BDR Butler Maps!

Get full details and enter to win at:

www.WinKTM790.com © 2020 Backcountry Discovery Routes. All rights reserved. Backcountry Discovery Routes and BDR are registered trademarks. Backcountry Discovery Routes is a 501c(3) non-profit organization.

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