Upshift Issue 46 - June 2020

June 2020

Issue 46

#GO ADVENTURE KTM 390 ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE MORE Fuel your restless spirit with a new adventure every day. Discover KTM’s sporty attitude and proven performance credentials aboard this new, compact single-cylinder travel-enduro machine – the KTM 390 ADVENTURE. Versatile ergonomics, smooth power delivery, and innovative technology all come together in a comfortable, lightweight package – created for those who want to fit more adventure into their daily lives.

Foto: R. Schedl

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective safety gear and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations. The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost. European specification model shown for illustration purposes only.

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective safety gear and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations. The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost. European specification model shown for illustration purposes only.

Photos: R. Schedl, H. Mitterbauer

husqvarna-motorcycles.com

E

The road quickly disappears behind you as you turn off the asphalt and engage offroad ride mode on the fly. the mighty single powers you smoothly along the trail. With its cutting-edge electronics and nimble chassis, you’re ready to take on any terrain you choose.

n d u r

701 o

Lean angle traction control 2 ride modes

21"/18" wheels

Versatility without compromise.

June 2020

Issue 46

Issue 46 JUNE 2020

THE INSIDER

Cover Simon Cudby

The New [Ab]normal

Design Chris Glaspell

INSTA-ADV

Photography Editor Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Suzanna Bostock Randy Commans Chad de Alva Seiji Ishii Freddy Lexx Ashley Myhre Dale Spangler Contributing Photographers Suzanna Bostock Tim Burke Chad de Alva Julie de Vaulx Olivier de Vaulx Ashley Myhre Michnus Olivier Story Editor Andrew Glaspell Business Development Brandon Glanville

Want to advertise with us?

Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

Join us on Instagram at @ upshift_online Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online Join us at facebook.com/upshiftonline

Instagram Travelers

GEAR The Latest

WIDE OPEN

Views Through The Lens

VIETNAM

And Then There Was One

FIRST RIDE

Suzuki V-Strom 1050XT

INTERVIEW

Catching Up with Andrew Short

TESTED

Pro Circuit Suspension Nitro Mousse Tips and Tricks

PARAGUAY

On the Quick

Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2020. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers.

All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

PROJECT BIKE Maxima KTM 300 tpi

THE NEW [AB]NORMAL INSIDER: DALE SPANGLER If you are reading this, then chances are you are part of a select group of individuals that make up the adventure riding community. You likely enjoy mapping out your route as much as you enjoy the journey itself, and you enjoy fine-tuning and personalizing your motorcycle as much as you like riding it. Equal parts preparation, skill, stamina, and intuition; the adventure rider in many ways is more closely related to mountaineers or backpackers than to our track-riding, twowheeled cousins that garner the majority of the media’s attention. However, media attention has never been the objective of adventure riding. Instead of spinning laps, we find solace in exploring the back-roads of this beautiful world as a therapeutic way to escape the mundane and to allow us to press play once again in our daily lives.

We happen to be living in a period when the only certainty we have is that there is no certainty. But we must continue to live our lives and find ways to enjoy every moment we have on this planet, which for us happens to include two wheels. As adventure motorcycle riders, in many ways, we’ve practiced social distancing for a long time already. Social distance is one of the alluring aspects of adventure motorcycle riding because distance from others is often the objective. For others, the social aspect of adventure riding—getting together with friends for a shared experience—is the draw, which, as we know, has become more difficult these days. However, we will adapt and evolve. Technology, such as rider-to-rider communication systems, has allowed us to continue riding while maintaining safe social distance with our friends. Only time will reveal adventure riding’s new normal. Whatever that may be, we will all enjoy our rides with a little more clarity and an increased level of appreciation from here on out.

THE NEW POINT OF

DEPARTURE

EMBRACE YOUR ESCAPE. THE HARDEST CHOICE YOU’LL MAKE ON THE 2020 SUZUKI V-STROM IS WHEN TO HEAD HOME. Strike awe with new styling inspired by the iconic DR-Z800 Dakar Rally bike & DR-Big. Command higher peak V-twin power without sacrificing low-end torque. Feel more capable across different terrain with Advanced Traction Control, Drive Mode Selector, and a new electronic Ride-by-Wire throttle system that delivers smooth, precise engine response. With so many adventures ahead, it’s time to make your exit.

V-STROM 1050XT ADVENTURE

EXPERIENCE THE V-STROM AT SUZUKICYCLES.COM Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2020 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.

V-STROM 1050XT

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The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

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INSTA-ADV

TRAILMAX MISSION

WHEN YOUR MISSION IS TO EXPLORE RIDE DUNLOP

AGGRESSIVE UPPER SIDEWALL TECHNOLOGY Wrap-around side lugs add rigidity and durability in rocky terrain, and improve steering in sand, mud and gravel.

@RideDunlop DunlopMotorcycleTires.com. ©2020 Dunlop Motorcycle Tires.

B

A

D

E C

1. Rottweiler Performance KTM 790 Parts Our friends at Rottweiler have built up quite the selection of accessories for the popular KTM mid-size adventure bike. Contact Chris and Mariel for more info, or check www.rottweilerperformance.com A. QUICK FLIP MIRROR MOUNTS (ARROW KIT) MSRP: $229.95 B. 790 ADVENTURE HEADLIGHT BRACE MSRP: $79.95 C. KTM 790 ADVENTURE POWER PLATE. MSRP: $69.95 D. REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER GUARD. MSRP: $59.95 E. 790 ADVENTURE FUEL PUMP GUARD. MSRP: $69.95

ADV A/C E P I C A I R F LOW R OA D - R E A DY P R OT E C T I O N O F F- R OA D M O B I L I T Y N E W B A JA S4 JAC K E T & PA N T

# K L IML IF E

K L I M .C O M

2. RAM® Mounts Universal and Waterproof Wireless Charging Phone Holders The RAM® Tough-Charge™ with X-Grip® Technology and the RAM® Quick-Grip™ Wireless. Available in a variety of kits for in-vehicle, motorcycle and ATV/UTVs, both waterproof phone holders feature Qi charging capabilities for high power output up to 10W and are compatible with the expansive line of inventive and modular RAM® mounting solutions. Each holder is spring-loaded to allow for quick and easy docking of phones. Adapted from the popular RAM® X-Grip® line of device holders, the RAM® Tough-Charge™ features X-Grip® Technology that expands and contracts to secure a wide range of phones against rubber-coated end caps. The RAM® Quick-Grip™ Wireless features top and bottom docking cups with rubber inserts that allow users to take advantage of simple one-handed docking and removal of their phone.

RAM Quick-Grip Waterproof Wireless Charging Holder.

MSRP: $117.99 Click Here RAM Tough-Charge with X-Grip Tech Waterproof Wireless Charging Holder. MSRP: $131.49 Click Here

THE RIGHT TOOLS Overloading Your Trail Tools? Pack Titanium Wrenches Over Steel To Stay Light

TiProlight

™

TiTanium Wrenches

Part No. 08-0466 - 4pc wrench set (8,10,12, 14 mm) Part No. 08-0478 - 4pc wrench set (8,10,12, 13 mm)

@motionpro

@motionprofans

TiProlight™ wrenches are a quarter the weight of a steel wrench. Compact and corrosion proof wrenches designed for trail pack or panniers

TiProlight™ wrenches available individually

Find your local dealer at MOTIONPRO.COM

NEW

TRAIL18 ADVENTURE BACKPACK

Utilising Kriega’s groundbreaking Quadloc-Lite harness, combined with high-tech construction materials to meet the demands of the modern-day adventure rider.

• 11-LITRE 100% WATERPROOF ROLL-TOP MAIN BODY • 7-LITRE HEAVY-DUTY ZIP ACCESS COMPARTMENT • 2L AND 3.75L HYDRATION RESERVOIR COMPATIBLE Available in BLACK, ORANGE or LIME

KRIEGA.US

#RIDEKRIEGA

10 YEAR GUARANTEE

3. Doubletake Scrambler Mirror For years Upshift has used Doubletake Adventure mirrors for our big bikes and the Enduro mirror for our dualsports. As a new option Doubletake offers the Scrambler mirror that’s easy to fold, remove, or swap between bikes.

Doubletake offers a satisfaction guarantee and a lifetime warranty against breakage of the housing. Just send them a picture and they’ll ship you a replacement. They are manufactured in Colorado and all of their components come from the USA. Scrambler Mirror $30.00, Long RAM Mount Arm $13.00, Ball Stud Base $10.00. www.doubletakemirror.com

• Ball Stud Base Compatible with all Honda, Kawasaki, KTM, Triumph, Husqvarna, Zero and Suzuki bikes, and left side of Yamaha.

• Indestructible- Made from reinforced Zytel • Excellent visibility- SAE spec convex lens • Easy to fold, remove, or swap between bikes • Guaranteed against breakage • Mirror Diameter = 100mm (4”) • Overall length = 150mm (6”) • Made in the USA

Do You know how my boyfriend beats yours?

He uses...

*For FREE Engine Ice stickers visit engineice.com/stickers and use code “UpShift”

FOR EPIC ADVENTURES

THE NEW TIGER 1200 DESERT EDITION Inspired by the epic adventures taken by Tiger 1200 riders across some of the most inhospitable and challenging terrain in the world, the new Tiger 1200 Desert Edition builds on the big Tiger’s well-appointed versatility and is designed for maximum capability, and even greater value for money.

This powerful motorcycle delivers 141 peak horsepower and 90 LB-FT peak torque, and is supported by fully-integrated ride enhancing technology and unique high-speciďŹ cation equipment, which includes features previously only available as standard on top-spec Tigers, including a lighter weight premium Arrow silencer and, for clutchless gear changes and an even smoother ride, Triumph Shift Assist.

Find out more, visit triumphmotorcycles.com

WIDE OPEN

RIDGECREST, CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

WIDE OPEN

AUSTRIAN ALPS

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

WIDE OPEN

CORONADO NATIONAL FOREST, ARIZONA

PHOTO: JULIE DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

SOUTHERN IDAHO

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

FOX LEGION

FOXRACING.COM

WIDE OPEN

VERONA, ITALY

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

WIDE OPEN

TONTO NATIONAL FOREST, ARIZONA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

SOUTHERN IDAHO

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

WIDE OPEN

GREECE

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

BEPPEDIENA ADV

GRAVEL-T GRAVEL-T

GRAVEL-T is our range of 100% waterproof soft bags, designed for Adventure Touring and off-road use. The GRT709 Canyon bags are a pair of soft saddlebags that give the same functionality and volume of a set of hard aluminum cases, without the weight and bulk.

They are easy to attach and remove, lockable and built to last, rugged enough to protect the side of your motorcycle from minor impacts.

MOUNTING PLATES: the included mounting plates are made of high impact nylon, and they fit the majority of side case mounts available on the market.

REMOVABLE INNER BAGS: 100% waterproof, we decided for the bright yellow fabric to make it easier to spot what you need, even in low light conditions.

M.O.L.L.E. READY: plenty of webbing on the side and on the bottom, the bags also come with a kit of 10 M.O.L.L.E. compatible clips.

GIVIUSA.COM

WIDE OPEN

SOUTHERN IDAHO

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

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BOLIVIA

PHOTO: MICHNUS OLIVIER

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PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

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DEADWOOD, IDAHO

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

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Over the course of a year, Pete and I might give 5-10 presentations about fly-in trips, i.e., our personal breakdown of how to stop dreaming and start riding the world - maybe not ride it all at once, but one trip, a few countries at a time. This presentation is an ongoing reflection of our combined travel musings.

The more trips we take, the further our approach evolves. Of all the topics we find ourselves pontificating about in the Mosko booth at various rallies and expos, this one is hands down our favorite. I’ll speak for myself and say I could drone on all day about it, rather enthusiastically I might add!

Without fail, when we get to the audience Q+A, a hand shoots up immediately and the first question all curious riders tend to raise is, “but how do you find the time?” The answer, simple. Also complicated. Plainly, you just do it. Easy as 1, 2, 3.

1. Choose a country (any country!…well, almost) + order some paper maps.

2. Buy a nonrefundable ticket.

3. Put one foot in front of the other, and no matter what life throws at you in the days and weeks leading up to the trip, just grab your helmet and get on the damn plane!

It’s complicated because, well, life is complicated, and when it comes to discretionary time-off pulling the plug inevitably seems more sensible than packing your bags. We tell ourselves: the timing just isn’t right; our families/employers/ employees/finances/etc., require our immediate attention.

Duty calls.

Yea, well... duty calls too often, and life passes us by if we pick up every time it rings. So, like I was saying, refer back to the 3 steps above. Following these steps requires us to embrace the chaos, uncertainty, and risk head-on, in full faith that what might unfold will be so valuable and necessary to our own life’s journey that we’ll never look back at the decision.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY ASHLEY MYHRE

So there it is, the fully fleshed version of my short response I usually give to the infamous time question. As life seems to teach us, taking our own advice can prove challenging. This go around, pre-winter 2020 moto trip, I wrestled with this very lesson. Odd as it seems, I was filled with doubt, indecision, discomfort, and dare I say… fear? I didn’t want to even go on the trip. Whoa, so intense, I know!

It seemed crazy, almost unimaginable for these emotions to arise in response to such a thing as heading out for an epic international motorcycle adventure. I remember thinking, Gah, really? What gives??

Maybe there were other, bigger things at play stirring beneath it all.

LOOPED Being thrown for a loop is fine. I usually even come to appreciate the challenge and character stimulating experience it offers. But this was like looping out, spinning uncontrollably until utter nausea ensued.

I WAS LOSING MY SHIT It seemed impossible to be at peace with my own advice. I almost did the very thing I so frequently warn other people against doing: pull the plug on the winter trip altogether.

Here’s why: This trip felt big before it even began, acute tensions aside. After such an all-time epic trip in Ethiopia last winter, I didn’t know if we could top it on a return trip. It seemed pretty unlikely if I’m honest. Still, flights were booked to Addis Ababa for February 1st, where we’d retrieve our trusty 200cc BMP dual-sports and head out for round two. We had sights set on the far N.E. corner, which we didn’t see previously, dropping briefly into neighboring Djibouti and hopefully realizing our swirling fantasies about crossing through the recently opened land border into Eritrea. Logistics aside, I couldn’t shake vivid daydreams of how epic and unexplored a traverse East might be, ideally riding and spearfishing in the Red Sea along the Eritrea coast. Bucket list for sure. I guess I’ll never find out if the two successive visits to East Africa would measure to one another because come to find out, those plans would never see the light of day.

Our friends in Ethiopia had officially ghosted us, and finally, we accepted it.

Long story short, the guys we thought were safely holding our bikes in Hawassa - Fistum and Babé - got harder and harder to get a hold of. Then they just stopped responding altogether. We still don’t really know what happened, and at a certain point (about three weeks before the trip), we decided there wasn’t much more we could do to find out where our bikes might be. Maybe we’ll never know what happened. It stung, and we chalked it up to the exciting and mysterious world of buying and selling motorbikes in foreign countries.

So, back to the drawing board we went, with no time to spare and the clock ticking loudly. There were less than 3 weeks until our month-long calendar block began, yikes! Enter Vietnam stage left. In a matter of hours, we paid the change fees and redirected our flights to Hanoi. I couldn’t believe how easily a new plan came together. In an hour, we had flights booked (free with miles), bikes in Hanoi ($500 apiece for the month), and 30-day multiple-entry visas ($155 apiece).

JUST LIKE THAT The importance of finally seeing Vietnam was real for me. I had been keenly aware of this SE Asia sore spot in my travel resume for some time. Especially since Mosko is proudly a micro multinational company and a great deal of our manufacturing happens in Vietnam; I seriously hated telling riders I hadn’t been. I was itching to break the ice with this particular region of Asia and sink my teeth into the history, culture, terrain, and yes, the food. Pete and I strategized to end our month-long adventure by paying a visit to both our sewing factory and metal fabrication factory, which are both located just outside of Ho Chi Minh City. I decided I’d gather some footage for a factory spotlight video during our visit. I am very excited to publish these on our website soon - the videos are an expose of sorts - an un-staged, hopefully demystifying look into overseas manufacturing, complete with factory owners, managers, and various locals who are employed there. I found the process of interviewing these men and women to be utterly fascinating. Stay tuned for that if you’re interested.

Cliff notes on the other factors simultaneously unfolding, which induced this overwhelming pre-trip anxiety for me: Work was absolutely mental - as in personnel changes within days of departure, prep for new flagship product drop, and heaps more I won’t bore you with. Basically, I found myself sitting in front of a big ole plate of scrambling with a chaser cocktail of deadlines and decisions. Ack!

Finally, it wouldn’t be sensible to go much farther into this story without mention of the coronavirus. The shakeup in my little bubble was all happening in tandem with the rapidly increasing worldly chaos and unfolding of what would be dubbed SARS-CoV-2, the novel coronavirus that is still rocking our world today.

TO GO OR NOT TO GO After much deliberation on the seriousness of the coronavirus and what it may become, together, we decided to continue. Vietnam, here we come! At that moment in time, the coronavirus still seemed like this far off, possibly ephemeral thing that was mostly, (supposedly) contained. We were aware but not terribly worried about our travel plans, including the brief stopover in Hong Kong. I do believe this high stakes decision-making added another layer of stress, no doubt.

It didn’t feel quite right to charge forward on such dubious assumptions of our safety, but we weren’t exactly keen on forfeiting our annual trip either.

This was our itinerary: PDX>SEA>HKG>HANOI Mask, sanitizer, and helmet in hand, we dove in. Flight #1 would be easy, PDX>SEA. Before parting ways with our gear at the check-in counter, Pete and I posed for photos in my fashion masks from my Burning Man. Thanks to B.M., I was fashionably equipped for a global pandemic! You might not be able to tell, but in the photo, we’re smiling at the oddity of wandering around in a face dressing for reasons we weren’t even certain of. I kept joking about the nCoV taking me out mid-trip.

Little did I know!

First thought upon boarding Flight #2 in SEA was thinking about our connecting flight from Hong Kong to Hanoi: “What the hell are we doing… is this crazy? I’ve never had my temperature taken in an airport before!”

Strange as it was then, looking back retrospectively is doubly spooky. The first noteworthy moment of the trip came after boarding that plane in Hong Kong and taking a look around. I’ll never forget it. More than half of the passengers sat wearing face coverings for the duration of the flight. Many even endured sporting sweat-filled disposable gloves too. I mean, yea, I had a face mask with me but mostly for posterity sake, you know, selfies and good measure - but these passengers seemed to be in a different head space entirely. Notably serious, on edge, and definitely well protected.

I WAS SPOOKED, NO QUESTION ABOUT IT Thanks to the airline, we were supplied ample reading materials should we find ourselves bored mid-air, Not 1, but 6 of the 7 aircraft LCD screen news app articles were covering the ‘Wuhan virus.’ Lucky for us, the 7th article brought something new and uplifting: bombs and terrorism.

Suddenly, I was transported, experiencing a shift into some sort of sci-fi themed, surreal adventure version of reality, and although I was aware of every cough, every sneeze, every violation of my bubble I was somewhat titillated by the uniqueness of it all. I welcomed it. I couldn’t deny that a true adventure was ahead - for a moment I forgot all about the anxiety. I was reunited briefly with my normal energy and optimism, then drifted into a hazy slumber that lasted most of the way to Hanoi.

Customs coming into Vietnam was a breeze, and with much anticipation, we waited at the baggage claim, picking and plucking one heavy piece at a time off the belt. What a feeling, eh? Watching that last gear bag make its way onto the carousel. Ahhh, sweet, sweet relief. NOW we have arrived! At the Hanoi airport, we quickly churned through the usual destination touchdown M.O. – obtain local SIM’s, change currency, and finally, consult the oracle in finding a decent hotel. We never book a single thing beforehand. In my mind, seeking out accommodations under pressure, jet-lagged, and irritable amid the chaos of a busy airport is the first taste of adrenaline. The adrenaline rush ensues as a result of cultivating an intentional moment of vulnerability and uncertainty.

Those two words, uncertainty and vulnerability, play a vital role in deepening my connection to the place I’m visiting. So important… but more on that later.

Pretty much everything from waking on the plane to standing in front of the hotel reception desk in the West Lake District of Hanoi remains a blur.

I’d just like to note that drugs and alcohol were not responsible for my haze, as one might assume. Just plain ole exhaustion and a bit of apathy to boot! So far, I wasn’t getting a super warm and fuzzy feeling from Vietnam like other places I’d visited. The words that come to mind are drab, gray, cigarettes, wet, distant. I was jet-lagged, no doubt, but I could also feel myself slipping back to those pre-trip feels.

GOOD MORNING, VIETNAM! Waking up the next day, I was pretty flat still. Right off the bat, my mood was flagging.

I could not conjure an iota of excitement.

Crap! I was hoping to wake up to a head-change. Ugh. I hoped coffee might help, I’d take anything I could get!

In our room, I discovered these delicious Vietnamese 3-in-1 instant coffee packets, which are most noteworthy because of the label. Here is my interpretation: fancy, clearly affluent, and educated couple exits their private helicopter, charged and ready to face the day thanks to G7 3-in-1 fueling their success. Quite memorable – bravo G7! So bad, it’s good. The coffee is also like that. 3 cups later, and we set out into the city for the first time.

Day one was filled with napping and putzing around the neighborhood, running last-minute errands.

In the afternoon, we went to pick up the bikes from Tigit Motorbikes, the rather impressive and organized rental operation we’d chosen. We’d pick up there in Hanoi, drop off in Ho Chi Minh at no extra charge. Really neat when you’ve got a bookend and no interest in traveling back the way you came. There was a quick inspection, some paperwork to be signed, and they were even so kind as to supply instructions for dealing with the corrupt Vietnamese police. Apparently, if one is pulled over, they should never speak English, simply spout out gibberish and act clueless for 15 minutes. Noted! Sounds fun.

As soon as I swung my leg over that little white XR150, my smile was back. ‘Ahh, yes, the bike. That’s why I’m here!’ I felt a renewed sense of purpose and couldn’t wait to get on the road the next day. Our rough plan from Hanoi was to kick off the trip by paying a visit to the North. Supposedly a place of epic landscapes and home to various hill tribes. We knew the rain would be a major obstacle on this mission since it was the wet season but figured because we were fresh into the trip and well equipped with bone dry gear, we’d be able to power through.

Bikes loaded, we suited up and headed straight into the rain. Damp weather, dark clouds and cool temps were not ideal, but still, stoked to be on the bikes! We had mad intentions for strength and perseverance, but about an hour into the miserable conditions, we pulled underneath a bridge to reevaluate. It really was like riding inside of a cloud, I had bricks for hands and some weird poncho thing over me to cut the cold wind. Not terribly enjoyable.

Alright, another new plan! We’d point toward Laos, where the forecast was sunshine and 70°. Sounded delightful.

Just a little way west of Hanoi, our decision was confirmed to be a good one. What a relief to be out of the city sprawl and onto the small country roads, weaving around and surrounded by lush, terraced paddies passing by lots of friendly faces and good vibes.

One cheap hotel and a few bowls of Pho later, we’d crossed into Laos, which right off the bat felt a degree friendlier and more chill than Hanoi.

Even their Laotian greeting Sabaidi! has a certain kindness to it. After talking with some knowledgeable locals, we learned of a region called the Phongsaly Province in the far North, which sounded really interesting. This province is home to 13 different ethnic minority groups. Geographically located in a remote mountainous peninsula-shaped area surrounded by China, Myanmar, and Thailand. No question about it, that’s where we were headed.

Looking at our paper maps, we quickly found that riding through Laos can be tricky at times. Lots of dead-end roads and uninhabited jungles. Much of the country is either unsettled or sparsely populated. Huge swaths of the country are really only navigable by little motorized kayaks that run up and down the river several times per day.

Bikes in boats? Who doesn’t love the improbability of loading a dual-sport onto an itty bitty kayak?

After removing mirrors and carefully securing the bikes, we climbed in and cozied up for the 6-hour ride ahead. Pete has had many a bike-on-boat experience, but this was my first, and I was eating it up! The entire ride was breathtaking – I mean non-stop dramatic scenery. We wove through countless twists and turns of the river that cut between huge limestone rocks and friendly locals occasionally perched beside the river. Wahhh! I couldn’t believe my eyes. Wide-eyed and full of curiosity, I felt so much had already happened, yet the trip was just getting started.

See, like I said - moods do change. I had officially shaken the funk, feeling present as could be.

Pete and I were grinning ear to ear, completely blissed out from our all-day buzz up the Nam Ou River spent laughing, napping, and ruminating all that was before us in the coming weeks. What a day… definitely one for the books.

Little did either of us know that as the sun set that night, our travels as a pair were coming to an abrupt close.

Five days in, on a 28-day trip and the’ together’ chapter was all over. Check out Part 2 in the July issue.

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FIRST RIDE: SUZUKI V-STROM 1050XT Suzuki revamps its tried-and-true V-Strom with a careful set of road-focused improvements in the 1050XT

WORDS: FREDDy LEXX

PHOTOS: SIMOn CUDBY

Suzuki has always struck a hard bargain in the ADV segment with its value-conscious V-Strom 1000. The new 2020 V-Strom 1050XT ($14,799) brings more road-focused worth to the equation.

Suzuki’s heavyweight adventure-touring rig benefits from a much needed face lift, electronic, and creature comfort improvements making it a legit option for riders that will rack up the odometer.

In spite of the new nomenclature, the V-Strom 1050 remains powered by Suzuki’s tried-andtrue 1037cc water-cooled V-Twin. The engine benefits from new high-compression pistons that boost top-end power. Camshafts with greater lift and less overlap (duration when the intake and exhaust valves are open) further elevates acceleration and fuel efficiency. Ride-by-wire throttle control was added which facilitates cruise control (more on that later). The engine drinks from a 5.3-gallon fuel tank.

Developed for V-Twin superbike racing two decades ago, Suzuki’s twin is a fabulous powerplant offering loads of power throughout the rev range. Rev it high or lug it low and the Suzuki happily complies while delivering pleasing sound and overall character. The rhythmic power pulses of two coffee can sized pistons strumming makes extended freeway rides more enjoyable than other bikes we’ve ridden recently.

A hint of vibration can be felt through the controls, but it’s the good type— the kind that makes it fun to ride a motorcycle. The aluminum handlebar offers more rearward sweep and the XT’s plastic hand guards further elevate road comfort.

The rider seat is thick and well-supported and passenger accommodations are generous, too.

Heated grips can be added as an option, or as part of the up-spec 1050XT Adventure package.

Riders can select from three throttle maps (A/B/C).

We preferred the sharp response of the ‘A’ setting. However, rider’s seeking softer initial delivery when the right grip is cracked, i.e. for off-road riding or traversing slick surfaces, will value the ‘B’ or ‘C’ modes.

Three-way adjustable traction control helps mitigate wheel spin, however, the electronics don’t integrate an IMU chip (inertial measurement unit) like most contemporary systems. For example, even KTM’s entry-level adventure bike includes this technology. Instead the TC relies on more basic inputs, including wheel speed sensors, throttle opening, RPM and gear position. Traction control can be manually disabled as well.

Keeping tabs on everything is a monochrome LCD instrumentation. Easy to read day or night and loaded with features, we appreciate its look; but for its price, we expect a color display. A handy USB charging port is located beneath the display so you can charge gadgets on the run. Bright LED lighting with a tasteful rectangular shaped headlight let Suzuki rider’s stand out.

The manually adjustable windscreen has a wide range of adjustment. Taller riders will appreciate coverage in its highest position. This nets a comfortable and quiet cockpit. The XT also benefits from cruise control which makes miles melt away with ease.

In terms of handling, we’re always impressed with how agile the V-Strom feels in motion. It’s lighter than its 545-pound fully fueled curb weight implies. The Showasourced suspension components give just over six-inches of travel and have a wide range of damping adjustment.

A handy preload adjustment knob makes it easy to modify ride height based on load or handling preference.

The V-Strom continues to roll on a 19-inch front and 17-inch rear wheel. The XT and XT Adventure specification trades out the base model’s cast alloy hoops for a pair of spoked, but still tubeless rims shod with Bridgestone’s recently released Battlax Adventure A41 rubber.

While we love the V-Strom’s excellent pavement manners, this wheel combo limits its prowess beyond the tarmac. Of course you can ride the V-Strom in the dirt, but it is nowhere near as capable as other brand’s ADV rigs equipped with more off-road friendly 21/18-inch wheel combo. Limited engine protection is another strike, however, the XT model adds crash bars which help protect it in the event of a tip over.

Triple-disc hydraulic brakes keep speed in check and include Suzuki’s Motion Track ABS system. As opposed to the traction control electronics, the ABS system employs an IMU which gives the motorcycle positional awareness in terms of pitch, roll and yaw. If the electronics calculate too much front brake pressure for lean angle, it automatically reduces pressure and/or re-routes it to the back brake. The system functions well, however there is a gripe: you can’t manually disable ABS function when riding in the dirt.

As usual, Suzuki offers an acceptable level of features for its price. While hard core off-riders will likely gripe about its weight and limited potential on real deal adventures, those who spend more time on road rather than off will simply adore the 1050XT’s handling manners. Factor in its more appealing styling and astounding level of comfort, and seeing a 1050XT in your garage would be a logical decision.

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ANDREW SHORT THE BIG SWITCH TO YAMAHA AND ALL THINGS RALLY I started training Andrew Short in 2010 and did so until he retired from professional motocross and supercross following the 2016 season. Although we have opposite personalities, we have remained close friends and live relative close to one another in Central Texas.

Short acted as a Honda ambassador for the 2017 supercross and motocross season. To the surprise of many, he jumped into the deep end of international rally racing on October 1st of the same year, joining the Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Rally Racing effort. So much for retirement.

After two seasons with the team, which included victory at the 2019 edition of the Rallye Du Maroc (The Morocco Rally), Short again shocked pundits with his jump to the Monster Energy Yamaha Rally team on a contract that covers the next two Dakar Rallies. I caught up with the polite Coloradan turned Texan via phone during the first week of quarantine in our area due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

WORDS: SEIJI ISHII | PHOTOS: YAMAHA RACING EUROPE

Coach Seiji: First, how are you and your family during the days of COVID, and what have you been doing to pass the time?

ANDREW SHORT THE BIG SWITCH TO YAMAHA

Andrew Short: My family and I are blessed. I look at the situation around the world and see what’s happening; there’s so much uncertainty. But for me, having been so busy with racing, it’s nice to be home with my family and have some downtime. It also gives me time to get organized, flip the switch and start anew with this transition to Yamaha. I want to get all my ducks in a row and make sure everything is ready to rock and roll. It’s also a unique situation for my family, with the kids doing home school. Usually, the kids’ participation in sports aligns well with my racing; they do their deal, and I do mine, but right now we can do both and still be together.

CS: What do you know about the current rally season? What do you think the first race will be?

AS: I think the question is unanswered. Fortunately, the biggest race of the year is in January (the Dakar Rally).

The next most significant event is the Morocco Rally in October, which is crucial for Dakar preparation. I think it’s realistic for both of these events to take place, but I don’t think it’s possible to predict what will happen to all the other events since we are still quite early in this pandemic. Selfishly it’s better for me as it gives me more time to get used to the new Yamaha and allow more time to prepare for the big races at the end of the racing calendar. But, again, saying this is selfish, as there are more important things going on. I mean all these things with respect. There are more significant issues affecting the world.

CS: Can you tell us how the opportunity with Monster Yamaha came up, and what were the deciding factors for you in your acceptance? This ride is your first on Yamaha, correct?

AS: This opportunity came up after Dakar through “Monster Joe” (Joe Parsons). He has been coordinating the Monster effort in cross-country rallies for years. I was talking to him, and we were discussing how Monster Energy is from the United States and how their passion for racing is so huge. I was also hanging out with fellow Americans, and some conversations came up; Monster checked in on me a little later on to see if I was available, and the timing was perfect.

I am very appreciative of the team I’ve been on for the past two years and all of the opportunities and learning that has come from our relationship, but it’s cool to be able to jump on this opportunity with Yamaha. They have recently invested a lot in their program and want to make a big push. They have some great riders and personnel, so for me to be a part of a program that they have already built is excellent. Yamaha and Monster Energy have a big team with a lot of great people; this gives me a great place to be, and I’m excited. I look forward to what I can accomplish and contribute. And yes, this is my first time on a Yamaha, so that’s exciting too.

CS: How much time do you have on the new bike, and what do you think about it? What are the most significant differences between the Yamaha and Husky race bikes?

AS: I don’t have a lot of time on the current bike. I got to ride it on a beach for photos and a motocross sand track in Portugal. It is hugely different from my Husky bike. The Yamaha is based more on a motocross-style motorcycle, I would say, so it felt outstanding riding on the beach and on that moto track.

The next step was to ride the desert in Abu Dhabi. We were going to do some testing in the desert before the first round of the world championship there. (Organizers canceled the race, and Short, fortunately, made it back home during the initial lock down phases of the pandemic.)

ANDREW SHORT THE BIG SWITCH TO YAMAHA

I’m looking forward to riding it in the desert and across the dunes, and I’m optimistic about what I have felt so far. I had a great feeling with the crew that was in Portugal for the first test. I enjoyed the camaraderie and the way they approach racing, even in the limited time we had together. This gives me a lot of hope for the future and gives me a great platform to perform at a high level.

AS: The differences between the Husky team and the new Yamaha team are quite vast. The way they test and the organization of the companies are very different. Yamaha Europe management is in Holland. They have a shop in France where they build everything, they have people in Portugal, and Jordi Arcarons is in Morocco organizing all the training. So yeah, they are spread out quite a bit, which is a lot different from the approach at Rockstar Husky. Both the team’s approach and the new bike are quite different for me, and I’m looking forward to having a new mindset on how to tackle the goals and to do well at Dakar.

CS: What were your highlights and lowlights of the last season?

AS: The Silk Way Rally last season was a highlight life experience. Racing through Russia, Mongolia, and China, it was crazy to ride in the Gobi Desert, and I ended up second. It was a great way to get the season going for me.

Then I won in Morocco, the final tune-up race before Dakar, and that win was big because everybody was there and they were all on form. It gave me personal validation because Morocco was the first world championship rally race that I ever did. I was so bad at that first race. I was so clueless, and I knew I had such a long way to go to be able to win it, and then to do it two years later was a big deal. I thought it would have happened a lot sooner, but I realized it took so much to be successful and how good the other riders were. I underestimated all of it. But I worked hard, and to win a race of that caliber was good for me.

Then obviously, the lowlight was right after that at Dakar because, on day two, the race for me disappeared. I had a big crash and broke the bike. On that day, I went from trying to win the race to helping the other guys, the team, and the program. So, it was a big turning point for me and a huge bummer.

CS: What do you think were your limiters for last season, and how are you addressing them for this season?

AS: My only goal this season is Dakar. Last year I did well at all the world championship races, and I was always pushing no matter what. This year I want to have a different approach, and I just want to do well at Dakar. I want to go all-in at that race. The other events are important, but they are stepping stones to get me to the main goal: Dakar.

CS: Training for rally racing is so different from training for SX/MX. Can you briefly describe your rally training strategies?

AS: Everyone always asks about training for a rally! It’s so different from motocross and supercross; that racing is so specialized. In those events, you know the environment, the time, the conditions, the riders. It’s apparent.

You go from the green flag to the checkered flag.

In rally racing, you never know what you may encounter, the different weather and cultures, and the racing takes multiple days.

ANDREW SHORT THE BIG SWITCH TO YAMAHA

CS: What do you think the most significant differences will be between the new team and Rockstar Husky?

There is a lot of mental fatigue; one bad decision and you’re going in the wrong direction. There are thousands of decisions to be made throughout the day, with the roadbook, the speed, the adjustments. If you make one bad mistake, it can affect the race in such a huge way.

ANDREW SHORT THE BIG SWITCH TO YAMAHA

I don’t want to say I train to be average, but I try to train in a way that makes me as well rounded as possible, from the diet, to on the bike, my mechanical skills, to building the roadbook.

For me, a big thing is learning the desert, how to read the terrain at high speed, how to read the tracks. These are all important to me. There is also mental training, discovering how to stay calm, and understanding and accepting how your body is going to work when you are exhausted. So, all these things are essential, and I didn’t mention plenty of other things. But the training is very different from motocross and supercross. Success requires so many things.

CS: Where do you feel your most significant improvements will come from: physical gains, increased navigation skills, riding skills, technical skills regarding the bike, mental aspects, etc.?

AS: My most significant improvements this year are going to come just from experience. I don’t think anything physical, my navigation or mechanical skills, technical skills, riding skills, bike, or mental aspects will make the most substantial gains. I was ticking all those boxes before. I’ll continue to improve in each and work on my weaknesses. I think the most significant difference will come from improving my race-craft, and this is just going to take more experience. I’ve found in rally racing that the effect of race-craft is immeasurable. It’s something that I underestimated, and I know it’s the key to improving my results in the future.

CS: Who do you look up to in rally racing? Why? AS: This sounds crazy, but the person I look up to the most in rally racing is Toby Price. The way he approaches racing and how well he can do across different motorsports inspires me.

And Kurt Caselli. I was talking to him at the KTM Adventure Rider Rally in 2013, and that’s why I got into rally racing. I loved the way that he talked about it, the passion he had for it. That’s what sparked my interest, and then I watched a documentary on Toby Price.

The coolest part about rally racing is that I look up to a lot of people. Everybody has a story, and they are all there for the same reason. It’s another reason why it’s so addicting, hearing these stories about their experiences. But Toby and Kurt in particular have had a significant influence on getting me hooked on rally racing.

Then I got to experience it myself repeatedly, and it fueled the fire.

CS: How does someone get into rally racing? It almost seems like a dark art.

ANDREW SHORT THE BIG SWITCH TO YAMAHA

AS: There are forums and things like that, and events like underground rallies. There’s one in Wyoming, there’s a group in Utah. The Sonora Rally in Mexico is a great way to try racing at a high level close to home. It is a little bit expensive, but you are paying for the safety aspect, and to coordinate a race at that level is costly. But if you love trail riding and enduro, I think you would love rally. You can use an enduro bike and put a few things on there: a big fuel tank, a navigation tower, maybe some mousses, and a safety tracker of some sort like a Garmin or Spot device. Rally Navigator and Tulip are tools to make roadbooks. The roadbooks will go digital soon, and that will bring costs down.

I think the sport will continue to grow. I even hear that there is an AMA sanctioned race that is coming to Colorado and Utah. There are a lot of companies that are pushing for this, and I think this segment will keep growing.

I hope people get the opportunity to check it out and to have the experience. I don’t think you would ever regret it. Whether you are a motocross rider, trail rider, GNCC guy, or enduro rider, it seems like there is a class for everyone. You can be on a side by side, adventure bike, dirt bike, car; it’s a race for everyone, and I hope people have increasing opportunities to try it.

CS: And on to what the Upshift Online readers want to know: what do you think of the Tenere 700?

AS: I’m excited to try it. I was on the Orange Juice and Husky programs for so long, I only had the view of one side. It’s refreshing to see all the products that Yamaha makes. I have a WR450 and an FX. I’m going to get a moto bike. They have all these bikes; look at the TW200, you see them in Mexico all the time, the classic adventure bike with the balloon tires, it never goes out of style.

To see all these bikes and how much Yamaha loves dirt bikes is cool. It’s funny how you get sucked into one side of something. So, it’s nice to be part of a different program, to see how they approach racing differently, to try these new things. I’m excited. Unfortunately, I haven’t ridden the Tenere 700 yet. I like that it has fewer electronics than other adventure bikes. You know I don’t care about that stuff.

CS: Finally, when do you predict your illustrious retirement will end? Do you target a result, physical condition, life stage, or a sign for you to hang it up finally?

AS: I don’t know when my career will end (laughs). I don’t think my physical condition or some sort of sign is going to make me hang it up. No, I know that doors open and close. I love racing, and I will always ride motorcycles.

It’s my passion and hobby; it’s not like I have a job right now. One day the doors will close, and one day I won’t get paid to ride a motorcycle, but it doesn’t mean I’m going to stop.

So I don’t know. I don’t want to put power into it or waste time and energy thinking of when that’s going to come.

I’m just living life trying to be my best and enjoying dirt bikes as much as I can. I still look forward to racing, to Dakar, and I still love to watch motocross and supercross.

But I also like trail riding, like in Colorado. I love to go exploring and going on adventures on two wheels. So, this will never stop unless I get an injury that makes me unable to do it. Riding is what I live for and what I love in life, so riding motorcycles will be a part of my entire life.

CS: Thanks, Andrew! You know that I will always be your #1 fan, and you undoubtedly have the support of the Upshift Online crew.

TESTED

BY SIMON CUDBY

2020 Husqvarna FE501s - Pro Circuit Fork and Shock Re-valve When your phone rings and you see that it’s the legendary Mitch Payton from Pro Circuit on the line, you pick up your phone. This happened to me about three weeks ago when Mitch called to see about doing some suspension work for us on our 2020 Husqvarna FE501S. The stock 501S has a decent rear shock setup straight from the factory, but for more serious off-road action the fork is much too soft. We boxed up our fork and shock and shipped them off to Pro Circuit’s Luke Boyk to handle our new set-up. About ten days later we were bolting our newly re-valved suspension back onto our Husky and were ready to hit the trails.

If you are not familiar with the fork adjustments on a stock Husqvarna 501S, there is compression adjustment on one leg, and rebound adjustment on the other leg. The Pro Circuit method of getting the fork to work better is to convert it to an open cartridge set-up, where both fork legs are equipped equally with compression and rebound adjustments. Luke had us set our sag initially at 105mm, with the fork tubes set at 5mm above the top clamp.

TESTED: 2020 Husqvarna FE501s - Pro Circuit Fork and Shock Re-valve

Our tester for the day was our local Idaho friend, Scott Lantefield, who knows the mountains north of Boise very well. Scott is an A-class off-road rider with 30 years of experience. The trails that we tested the suspension on had some perfect dirt after some recent rain showers, and were mostly singletrack with a good amount of rocky up- and downhill sections.

The 501S felt a little low in front end, so to get a more balanced feel we went one click softer on the compression and sped up the rebound by two clicks on the fork. We also took out a little pre-load from the shock spring. Sag was now at 115mm, and with these adjustments the bike felt much more balanced and we were able to get rid of the slight “stinkbug” feel.

Out of the box from PC, Scott felt that the rear shock rebound was a little slow, and also had slightly too much compression damping. On some of the rocky uphill sections the rear felt a little harsh. To get a better feel we finally went softer on the rear compression by 4 clicks. We also sped up the rebound on the rear shock by three clicks, and we set the high-speed to 2 1/2 turns out. This setting kept the rear tire more hooked up on the rough, loose, uphill sections.

After making these few adjustments I could see that Scott was starting to smile… in a matter of less than 30 minutes he had been able to adjust a few clickers and get a near perfect feel for these trails. He commented, “This bike now sits up in the stroke much better, and the forks don’t dive anymore. I would say that with this Pro Circuit suspension you could easily race off-road if you wanted, and definitely do some aggressive trail riding. I was able to get the forks to feel as good as my own bike with a few adjustments for my personal riding style and this kind of terrain.” Overall we are very happy with our Pro Circuit experience, and our 501 is much happier on the more rugged Idaho terrain. Our next product to try with our 501S is the PC Linkage system that allows the bike to sit a little lower, and should soften up the feel of the rear end. Cost: $1160 plus tax- Fork and shock re-valve, bladder conversion, preload collars, parts and labor. www.procircuit.com

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TESTED: 2020 Husqvarna FE501s - Pro Circuit Fork and Shock Re-valve

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TIPS AND TRICKS

BY CHAD DE ALVA

NITRO MOUSSE Nitro Mousse solid foam inner tubes are great products, and I’ve come to really enjoy the flat-proof performance they provide my dirt bikes. But like so many other products, getting the most of out of Nitro Mousse takes a little bit of research and time spent learning how to properly use and care for them. I recently had the opportunity to see firsthand what happens when a rider tries to install Nitro Mousse without the right information — and lets just say it doesn’t work so well. In this case, a member of our local dirt bike club had reached out to me for help getting his bike on Nitro Mousse as he was prepping for his first rally. When we went to install new tires and Nitro Mousse on his wheels, we quickly discovered that the Nitro Mousse that a major powersports retailer had sold him was way too big for the tire he had chosen — so you can thank the internet for inspiring me to write this article.

By the time you’re done reading this, you’ll have the information you need to use Nitro Mousse, following the manufacture’s best use and care practices. If you’ve made it this far and are still trying to figure out what a Nitro Mousse is, check out my tested piece in Upshift’s 35th issue (July 2019), then come back here. Information presented in this article was sourced directly from Nuetech, the company that makes Nitro Mousse, so know that the facts come directly from the source and not some forum on the internet.

As my fellow club member discovered, you need the right size Nitro Mousse for the tire you’re going to use, so before you click that buy button you need to do a little research. Tire sizes vary between models and manufacturers, and just because you’re looking at a 110/100-18 tire by brand A, doesn’t mean a 110/100-18 tire by brand B is going to have the same internal volume. In turn, this means that you need different size mousse for each of these tires. In fact, the circumference of two different brand tires with the same numerical size can vary by the better part of two inches! Thankfully, Nitro Mousse has a handy chart where you can look up the tire you want to run to find the correct size Nitro Mousse for that specific tire. Other mousse manufactures don’t do this, or they only provide sizing for their brand of tires, which means you are on your own figuring out if you want to try a different tire with other mousses. This is where my friend from the club was led astray. The retailer’s website gave him the false positive on fit, where the Nitro Mousse chart indicated that he needed a different size Nitro Mousse. As always, it’s best to get your information directly from a manufacturer.

Once you have your correctly matched Nitro Mousse and tire sizes, it’s time to talk about the installation process.

The first thing that you need to do is clean your rim, and then make sure the rim is wrapped in good rim tape. A good tape job will cover all of the spoke nipples, and all of the holes for the valve stem and rim locks. With the tape applied, cut out one of the holes for your rim lock and install it. A good application of rim tape will keep as much of the lube in the tire as possible, and that will help your Nitro Mousse last longer.

TIPS AND TRICKS: NITRO MOUSSE

When it comes to lube, the best thing you can use is the stuff that Nitro Mousse includes with every one of their mousses. Yeah, it can make a mess and it isn’t the easiest thing to clean up, but it’s the best lube out there. If you use a full tube of Nitro Mousse lube with each tire install, you’ll find that Nitro Mousse lasts a surprisingly long time. Folks out there will tell you that you can use tire mounting soap as a lube, but it’s important to remember that tire mounting soap is intended to facilitate mounting a tire and then wash off easily, not to keep something well lubricated over a long period of time. Using tire soap will require that you break down your tires every couple of rides to re-lube, and even then this method only works so well. I don’t know about you, but I would much rather apply the best lube possible one time with each new tire, rather than pulling my tires off every other ride just to re-lube them.

During a Nitro Mousse install, you can do a few things to make your tire feel like it has more air pressure. If you would like to increase the PSI feel of either a Platinum (10-12 psi feel) or a Plushie (6-8 psi feel), you can pick up a Nitro Wedge, which is an 8-inch section of a whole Nitro Mousse that can be further cut and added into your tire to increase pressure. These wedges can also be used to increase the pressure feel of an older mousse. So if you’ve got an older mouse that’s starting to feel too soft, you can extend the life of that mousse before having to buy a replacement.

Once you’ve lubed up the inside of your tire and installed your mousse and any Wedge pieces, the actual mounting process is very similar to mounting any other motorcycle tire, in that it’s easier if you do one thing: Whether you’re working with a Rabaconda or just a couple of tire irons on your garage floor, if you can use bead ramps, vice grip pliers, or any other method that works for you to keep the tire bead in the drop center of the rim, installing the tire will be much easier. Going full hulk mode on a tire that isn’t in the drop center of the rim can actually damage or break the wire braids in the tire’s bead, which can ruin the tire or cause scary things to happen down the road. Tire changes are all about technique – so use good technique instead of brute force.

TIPS AND TRICKS: NITRO MOUSSE Nitro Mousse, like so many other great products, can provide game changing performance, but the only way to get that full measure of performance is by understanding how a product works and using it correctly. Step one is to match up the tire you want to run with the right sized Nitro Mousse, so check out that chart here. When you’re doing the install, use the Nitro Mousse lube (also known as Nitro Mousse Cooling Gel), and make sure to keep the tire bead in the drop center of the rim. If you’re reinstalling a Nitro Mousse on a new tire, know that you can get a chunk to replace any damaged sections, or to make a mousse feel like it has a little more pressure without shelling out for a new mousse.

Just make sure to use a full tube of lube with each new tire.

By following these steps, I’ve enjoyed great success with Nitro Mousse, even when I’m trying to be abusive to them.

I’ve gone for extended pavement blasts just to get things hot, but I haven’t managed to put a set of Nitro Mousses in an early grave. Riders who are far faster than mere-mortal me seem to be enjoying similar results as well, so it must mean that there is something to be gained from following the directions. If this whole Nitro Mousse thing seems intimidating, know that it isn’t. Just because someone wrote a post about what a train wreck trying Mousse was for them, doesn’t mean that you’re going to have the same experience. Follow the steps in this article, and if you need further help, check out the videos on the Nitro Mousse website, or reach out to your mousse manufacturer directly. Riding with Nitro Mousse is a pretty great deal, and if you set them up correctly, you can say goodbye to flat tires forever. www.nitromousse.com

WORDS AND PHOTOS: SUZANNA BOSTOCK

Paraguay is one of only two land-locked countries in South America. The other is Bolivia, which we loved. It sits right in the heart of South America nestled between Argentina, Brazil and Bolivia, and has an abundance of dirt roads, waterfalls, subtropical forests and swamplands. Our time there was short but sweet, enjoying our time in the Eastern part of the country called ‘Región Oriental’. Paraguay is one of the least touristy countries in South America and one of the poorest. Many overlanders who do visit enter at one side and just go straight across between Asuncion and Ciudad Del Este (capital of cheap electronics).

We crossed into Paraguay via the San Roque González de Santa Cruz Bridge, spanning across the Paraná River, from Posadas in Northern Argentina over to Encarnatión in Southern Paraguay. The customs process was relatively painless, and due to the torrential down-pours, crossing was quite swift with minimal traffic on the roads compared to normal. We managed to find a friendly little hostel and they were happy to house our bikes in their store room, giving us the key while we sat out the storms for a day or two.

The weather was relentless and it definitely didn’t help with the back-roads, which were chewed up and rutted by the 4x4 vehicles trundling along them. There was too healthy a covering of that thick, sticky red mud that clings to everything for my liking. It was like trying to ride on an ice rink, and where the road wasn’t covered in a layer of thick mud, there were super deep mud baths. With this in mind we took the clean and smooth option and headed up to the capital, Asuncion, via tarmac as I was in need of some urgent dental work.

Upon arriving in the capital, we were looking for a hostel with that familiar lost look when a super friendly military officer approached us and offered directions along with some Paraguay flag patches for our panniers; how amazing is that?!

I also managed to find a good dentist just two doors down from the hostel. Perfect! After a few days of essential human maintenance and a little bike TLC, the real Paraguay experience began.

Heading northeast to Laguna Blanca and surrounding areas, it was our first proper taste of the Paraguayan dirt roads.

Now in a semi-dry state they were much more fun! We trundled along the red-brown tracks, occasionally snaking around in sections of slimy mud and dodging the huge puddles of unknown depth. We were fortunate enough to come across a great camping area called Ecotur on the edge of the lake with very cheap cabins for rent, and being off-season it was empty. We parked our bikes up, made friends with the camp dogs who came and slept on our porch, and enjoyed the amazing evening sunset over the tranquil lake. We would have stayed longer if it wasn’t for the fact that the weather forecast for the next week was looking really good and we wanted to make the most of the back-roads. I may be getting used to this off-road riding (and loving it), but thick, slippery mud was still my nemesis.

Now it was time to head due south in the direction of Herr Walter Schaffers Overland hostel in Coronel Oviedo.

Walter is fantastic; an avid overlander, having traveled all over South America in a Citroen 2CV. He’s also converted one into 4WD! His workshop was awesome, and after taking us around the town in his 2CV to find bike oil, we did a swift oil change on both bikes and some other general maintenance, followed by a few cool beers and plenty of travel chat.

We then prepared for a few days of Paraguayan back-roads. After bidding farewell to Walter, we slowly made our way to a place called Cerro Akati on the now dry mud roads, snaking our way up the mountain, climbing the never-ending dirt roads. We arrived at a small gated area where a friendly Brazilian guy greeted us before we wandered over to the immense lookout point, complete with a red rooster and a few chickens clucking about. It was such a tranquil spot with views over the vast countryside that just seemed to go on forever. It was certainly worth the few Guarani fee. We could see the tracks that we had come along and they looked so minuscule all that way below us. We sat there and took it all in for a while before getting on our bikes and heading off to Salto Suizo. The route was quite sandy, but I made it rubber side down. We were rewarded by some very pretty waterfalls and another beautiful viewpoint. This time the view was directly out over thick, lush forest. Tucked around one of the corners at another lookout was a lone backpacker enjoying the solitude that this beautiful hideaway had to offer. Unfortunately, camping up there would mean leaving the bikes quite a ways away from us, which we didn’t want to do. The other option was camping on the sandy campground. We decided to head off on another route and soon came across a small hostel where a large Paraguayan family sat outside enjoying a BBQ. When we pulled up, they offered us an inexpensive room. The little extra money was worth paying to not have to pitch the tent in sand. We slept really well in our little room, surrounded only by farmland, trees and wildlife. Bliss!

The next day after some bread rolls, homemade jam and a local drink made with hot milk resembling a milky Chai tea, it was time to get going again.

Although the roads were mud and sand, they weren’t too slippery due to the couple of dry days we’d had. We passed a multitude of small little farm houses, many of which were quite dilapidated, but the people we saw around the place all looked quite happy and waved, although many of them stared at us like we were aliens. I don’t think they are overly familiar with gringos coming along their back-country roads!

Many of the dirt roads disappeared into the horizon, as they dipped down into deep valleys and back up again. Luckily the traffic was virtually non-existent.

We meandered through the countryside stopping for a few photos on the way, however, it was super hot and I hadn’t realized my fan had been running like crazy. When I tried to start the bike again it was having none of it. Typically, we were stopped on a section of bumpy track, so Kelvin had to push me along and was sweating his socks off! Fortunately, the first attempt was successful and as I dumped the clutch, the bike sprang back into life!

All too soon it was the final day of riding in Paraguay.

After another gas station breakfast followed by fun-filled conversations with the gas station staff, it was off on the back-roads again. We were heading for Salto Ñacunday, nestled deep in the countryside, not far from the Argentina-Paraguay border. It was quite a detour but well worth it!

The road was mostly hard mud except for the last two miles which were that dreaded red mud again. We passed the ranger hut and were then joined by the ranger’s dog who obviously decided he hadn’t had enough walks recently.

He ran behind us the whole way to the waterfall. The track down there was almost completely shaded by trees which meant the slimy mud was still very wet and slippery beyond belief. It wasn’t long before I was on the floor having managed to lose the back end in a long section of mud. Kelvin helped me up with his feet slipping everywhere, both of us sweating profusely. Not long after, it was Kelvin’s turn.

Managing to get his two wheels stuck in different ruts, he was thrown down into the sludge, covering both him and his bike in mud. The dog looked as if he was asking, what on earth are these two idiots doing!

As we got to the bottom of the track, the road sloped down.

We left the bikes at the top and walked down because even on foot the terrain was a challenge. The effort was worth it though. The waterfall was beautiful and roaring with a pretty rainbow thrown in for good measure. It was truly magnificent! There wasn’t another soul in site so we were able to stay there and enjoy the surroundings without any interruptions besides the pesky mosquitos who honed in on my sweet blood.

With time ticking on, we walked back up to the bikes.

Fortunately, there were no more tumbles on our exit and we said goodbye to the doggy before heading up to the ferry across to Argentina in Ciudad del Este. Paraguay had been a great experience. A little too short for our liking, but well worth the visit. The best advice I could give… visit in the dry season!

No helmet can protect the wearer against all foreseeable impacts. Nothing is a substitute for safe riding practices. Š2020 Arai Helmet

Maxima’s Good Vibes 300

PHOTOs: SIMON CUDBY WORDS: RANDY COMMANS

MAXIMA-KTm 300 XC-W TPI PROJECT

In a world that’s gone crazy for 4-strokes over the last 20 years, KTM firmly puts the dominance back in 2-stroke. The 2020 KTM 300 XC-W is as technically advanced as it is fun. From the moment you throw a leg over it, and before you even start it, this bike feels like it’s going to do everything you will it to.

Upon firing it up, you immediately feel the vibe; not a bad vibration, just a very different vibration than a 4-stroke. A couple twists of the throttle and you notice the complete lack on inertia from the motor, you know it’s going to be nimble and responsive.

We took it out on some singletrack at Mojave Area 58, and man did it deliver. Our bike was outfitted with a Rekluse automatic clutch and a Pro Circuit pipe and silencer (Forest Service Approved). It really excelled in the tight, back and forth singletrack. The light weight and lack of engine inertia made it super easy to change direction. The power was smooth and robust through the entire power band thanks to the TPI. That reason alone was why I was so excited to add this bike to my playlist.

Konflict Motorsports did up our suspension. I was super impressed with how supple it was when I wanted it to be, it felt very planted at all times. It handled the rocky stuff with ease and made log hopping a game. Now I know why all the top hard-enduro guys are riding 2-strokes. The suspension was so good and I am really looking forward to taking full advantage of the on-the-fly adjustments the Dal Soggio valving provides.

MAXIMA-KTm 300 XC-W TPI PROJECT

MAXIMA-KTm 300 XC-W TPI PROJECT

The only thing that made me pause and ask myself why I went back to a 2-stroke was the 20 minutes spent on fire-roads en route to the singletracks. The 500 4-stroke is more comfortable in such a relaxed situation. The 300 likes to be challenged and pushed hard for it to really shine.

We have a complete list of everything we did to our Maxima branded KTM 300 XC-W. We didn’t go crazy with the bike, we just made smart choices to keep it authentic and accessible for others to try.

MAXIMA PRODUCTS USED: Injector Oil - Maxima Formula K2 Injector

Shock Fluid - Maxima Racing Shock Fluid

Trans/Gear Oil - Maxima MTL85

Air Filter Oil - Maxima FFT

Chain Lube - Maxima Chain Wax

Hydraulic Fluid - Maxima Racing DOT 4 Brake Fluid

Fork Fluid - Maxima Racing Fork Fluid

Air Filter - ProFilter Dual Stage Premium Air Filter www.maximausa.com

MAXIMA-KTm 300 XC-W TPI PROJECT

MAXIMA-KTm 300 XC-W TPI PROJECT

Plastic: Acerbis Full plastic kit plus, 3.1 Gallon Fuel Tank, Handguards, Skidplate - www.acerbis.com Graphics: UpShift Maxima Branded Kit - Project Red, White and Black - www.upshiftonline.com Seat Cover: Seat Concepts Super Grip Seat Cover - www.seatconcepts.com

PARTS LIST

Tires: Dunlop AT81 Front and Rear - www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com Tubes: Nitro Mousse (PSI FEEL 10-12) - www.nitromousse.com Clutch: Rekluse Radius CX Auto Clutch - www.rekluse.com Fan Kit: Trail Tech Fan Kit with Temperature Gauge - www.trailtech.net GPS: Trail Tech Voyager Pro with Buddy Tracking - www.trailtech.net GPS Mount: MotoMinded Stout Mount Universal GPS Mount - www.motominded.com Exhaust: Pro Circuit Platinum Pipe with Pro Circuit Nature Friendly S.A. Silencer - www.procircuit.com Suspension: Konflict Works Kit with Dal Soggio Components and SKF Seals - www.konflictmotorsports.com Light: Baja Designs XL 80 - www.bajadesigns.com / www.motominded.com Light Mount: MotoMinded LED Mount Kit - www.motominded.com Air Filter: ProFilter Premium Fused Dual-Stage Air Filter - www.profilter.com Air Filter Disc: MotoMinded Air Filter Disc - www.motominded.com Sprockets: DDC Delaney Drive Components (Stock Gearing 13-50) - www.ddcracing.net

MAXIMA-KTm 300 XC-W TPI PROJECT

MAXIMA-KTm 300 XC-W TPI PROJECT

LIVE DRAWING

July 31, 2020

Support BDR and you could win this KTM Donating as little as $25 towards the BDR mission puts you in the running to win the ultimate BDR machine. This 2020 KTM 790 Adventure R features $9,000 worth of upgrades including:

Special thanks to:

• WP XPLOR PRO Suspension with Cone-Valve Forks • Special BDR Edition Graphics • Touratech Protection and Luggage Systems • Cyclops Aurora LED Auxiliary Lighting Kit Plus, we included a complete collection of BDR Butler Maps!

Get full details and enter to win at:

www.WinKTM790.com © 2020 Backcountry Discovery Routes. All rights reserved. Backcountry Discovery Routes and BDR are registered trademarks. Backcountry Discovery Routes is a 501c(3) non-profit organization.

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