Upshift Issue 49 - September 2020

Issue 49

September 2020

KTM 500 EXC-F KTM 500 EXC-F KTM 500 EXC-F KTM 500 EXC-F

RELENT DUAL PURPOSE POWERHOUSE The KTM 500 EXC-F is a new generation 4-stroke, dual purpose powerhouse. Ready to crush the miles ahead, its versatility for both on-and offroad stands bar none. Packed with 510 cc from the SOHC single cylinder, the KTM 500 EXC-F holds its own as the most powerful model in its class.

ktmusa

Photo: R. Schedl

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes. Always wear protective safety gear and ride in a responsible manner.

The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

TLESS

KTM Group Partner

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective safety gear and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations.

The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

Photos: R. Schedl, KISKA GmbH

With its finely balanced mix of power and agility, the 2021 FE 350 opens up boundless off–road possibilities. A unique opportunity to traverse epic natural landscapes, intuitively merging speed, traction and technical abilities into the ultimate synergy of man, machine and terrain.

The perfect balance.

F E

350

DOHC engine

Carbon composite subframe

Switchable engine maps

husqvarna-motorcycles.com

Issue 49

September 2020

Cover Olivier de Vaulx Design Chris Glaspell Photography Editor Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Scott Bradley Tim Burke Stephen W. Clark Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Contributing Photographers Scott Bradley Tim Burke Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Story Editor Andrew Glaspell Business Development Brandon Glanville

Issue 49 SEPTEMBER 2020

THE INSIDER Rapid Change

INSTA-ADV

Instagram Travelers

BIKES-GEAR

The Latest

WIDE OPEN

Views Through The Lens

NEW MEXICO Continental Divide

CHAD REED

Want to advertise with us?

Eastern Idaho Off-Road Adventure

Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

Join us on Instagram at @ upshift_online Join us at facebook.com/upshiftonline

TESTED

Givi GRT709 Luggage Sena 50S

IRELAND

The Emerald Isle Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2020. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers.

All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

LESSONS FROM THE ROAD

N. E. Canada

RAPID CHANGE INSIDER: STEPHEN W. CLARK People across all walks of life are seeking adventure more than ever. Vans, overlanding, mountain biking, adventure bikes, and side-by-sides are just a few of the industries that are blowing up. But what is fueling this desire for travel? Are we trying to escape from our busy connected lives? Are we seeking challenges that our normal lives no longer bring?

Or do we just want to get out and see new places? One thing is for sure, we are living in a time where there is huge growth across all forms of adventure activities. Activities that were once niche are becoming mainstream. Whether it’s two wheels or four, motorized or human powered, it seems like all forms of off-road recreation are absolutely exploding.

Manufacturers have taken notice and we are living in a time where factory-built capable off-road vehicles are in abundance. In the motorcycle industry, the off-road and adventure segment continues to grow year after year as manufacturers add more models.

The adventure movement has been rolling for years but the recent pandemic has caused a huge surge. With air travel and conventional vacations no longer an option, people are searching out new ways to recreate closer to home. It has also been further fueled by the trillions of dollars recently injected into the economy that has given people the money to buy new toys. Dealerships are sold out, manufacturers are scrambling to meet demand, and everyone is heading to public lands to ride.

It’s great to see new people experiencing the outdoors, but as with any type of rapid growth, there are challenges. More people on public land means more accidents, more crime, and more pressure on trail systems. Emergency services now have double the workload with the same resources and trails are now getting rutted out twice as fast. Not to mention, your epic camping location is full with out-of-state plates. The list goes on.

One of the biggest draws to adventure motorcycling is the ability to get away from people, so with more people using public lands, we have to ask how things are going to look in the future. How will the riding experience change as areas get busier? Honestly, nobody knows. All we know is that there is a rapid amount of change happening at the moment. Maybe in 2021 everyone will sell their bikes and go back to cruise line vacations.

It’s really impossible to predict and there’s not much we can do but go along for the ride.

As the industry tries to plan for what’s ahead, our job remains the same... simply keep getting out there, savor every experience, and enjoy each ride like it’s our last.

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The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

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Ténéré 700. The Next Horizon is yours.

YamahaMotorsports.com Professional rider depicted on a closed course. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long sleeves, long pants, gloves and boots. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. ©2020 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved.

Royal Enfield Introduces The 2021 Himalayan Milwaukee, Wis: Royal Enfield, the global leader in the middleweight motorcycle segment, announced today the launch of the 2021 Himalayan with new features adding to the already impressive legacy of the 411cc adventure motorcycle.

Since its introduction in 2016, the Himalayan has earned the respect and admiration of discerning motorcyclists and aspiring adventure riders.

Starting September 1, 2020 interested consumers may reserve a 2021 Himalayan at www.RoyalEnfieldNA.com. Quantities are limited and are only available through the website. Once reserved, consumers will present a unique buyer’s code at participating Royal Enfield dealers within seven days of receipt to confirm the reservation.

The 2021 Himalayan retains the original versatility and durability of the motorcycle, with added features to improve the riding experience. New for 2021 is a switchable anti-lock braking system (ABS) providing riders with more control when navigating challenging off-road conditions. The new Himalayan also features a revamped rear brake mechanism that improves brake engagement and rider feel for decreased stopping distances. Additional features in response to customer feedback also include an improved side-stand design and hazard light switch in case of road or trail side emergencies.

The new Royal Enfield Himalayan will be available in three new colorways: Lake Blue and Rock Red, and Gravel Gray, adding to the existing portfolio of Snow White, Granite Black and Sleet. The motorcycle comes with a three-year warranty and will be available across all Royal Enfield dealerships in North America starting at $4,999. www.royalenfield.com

New Klim Dakar Series Off-Road Gear for Fall The Dakar series gear is a blend of durability and airflow, featuring massive adjustable vents on the pant legs in addition to multiple stretch panels, leather overlays, and heavy duty 840D Cordura in key areas. The recently redesigned Dakar Jersey, with tough sleeves, vented sides, a zippered sleeve pocket and a lightweight body, is equally focused on durability while still maintaining good airflow for off-road riding. Jersey, pant and glove colors: Green, Aqua Blue, Sage, Gray-Orange, Black, Black-Red, Blue. Pricing: Jersey MSRP $69.99. ITB Pants MSRP $189.99. Pants MSRP $209.99$229.99. Gloves MSRP $39.99 Wherever you ride, and whatever you ride, KLIM has your entire season of trail riding, racing and dual-sport adventures covered. The redesigned Dakar Jersey blends durability with airflow to create a well-balanced jersey for any off-road environment. The Dakar features heavy duty mesh sleeves with a full-length stretch panel and open mesh in the armpits for airflow, making it perfect for aggressive riders. An added zippered pocket on the upper arm is where you can store anything from earplugs to a small snack to an ID card, or anything else you might take on the trails or a dual-sport ride. See the new kits at www.KLIM.com.

AMP Grab Handle for 2019-2021 KTM’s Milled from high strength aluminum, this AMP grab handle is just what you need to get more leverage on your bike in some of those sticky situations. Fitment: KTM 125-450 SX/XC/SX-F/XC-F 19-21, KTM 150-500 XC-W/EXC-F 20-21. Available in black or orange. $34.99 www.ktm-parts.com

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Yoshimura Introduces 2021 Yamaha Tenere 700 RS-12 ADV Slip-on The Yamaha Tenere 700, or T7 as it’s affectionately known, is finally here and we are super excited about this and its possibilities! The platform of the 689cc parallel twin engine has been used in the MT-07 for years is quite possibly perfect for both the serious and aspiring off-road adventure rider. We wanted to give the new T7 more grunt so we enlisted the help of our all-new RS-12 ADV slip-on system. Our patent pending PTF insert system makes installing a sound insert or spark arrestor a breeze! The RS-12 ADV added horsepower and torque across the entire power spectrum! Max HP recorded 3.7% gain and max torque was marked at a 2.4% gain. The exhaust note that the RS-12 provides the new Yamaha is spot on! MSRP: $599.00 www.yoshimura-rd.com

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Mosko Moto Basilisk Jacket (v1.2) Refined for our second round of production, the Basilisk is our ultimate waterproof/breathable enduro-touring kit, for long-distance, multi-day trips through primarily off-road terrain. It combines super-premium materials with clean lines and minimalist design. With an articulated fit for freedom of motion and easy layering, the Basilisk is designed to work with separate armor systems and pack smaller than traditional ADV jackets, for stashing on your bike when things get hot.

What’s New? No design is ever truly finished, and our flagship riding kit is no different. For (v1.2) we incorporated feedback from v1 to make the Basilisk even better. We improved the collar fit, opening it up to allow more room for layering and alleviate pressure on the Adam’s apple. We moved the Cohaesive® integrated collar adjuster to the back.

We added internal reinforcement patches to improve durability in high wear areas. We also added a pass-thru lash point, making it easier to secure the jacket to your luggage when it’s stashed on the back of your bike. Available in Charcoal, Navy, and Red Ochre. Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, XL, XXL. Price $599.00 www.moskomoto.com

SOLVE OUR 20TH ANNIVERSARY CROSSWORD PUZZLE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN!

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ADVENTURE TRANSFORMED

THE NEW BENCHMARK FOR MAXIMUM OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE. Versatile and agile, with a premium speciďŹ cation, the new Tiger 900 Rally range delivers even more incredible oo-road capability, with even higher power and performance, and a new dominant adventure-focused stance for maximum oo-road adventure riding and all-road comfort and style.

The Tiger 900 Rally and higher speciďŹ cation Rally Pro both feature a new lightweight adventure chassis, advanced technology and premium equipment, plus a higher capacity 900cc triple engine, delivering 10% more torque than the previous generation, with even more torque low down, and higher overall power (94 peak horsepower) across the entire rev range.

Find out more, visit triumphmotorcycles.com

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2021 Models

The #1 selling Entry Level Enduro bike 2-Stroke / 300 /

Off-Road Rideability in four sizes to fit most rider’s needs 2-Stroke / 125 / 200 / 250 / 300 /

The most off-road worthy dual sport on the market 4-Stroke / 350 / 390 / 430 / 500 /

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WYOMING

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

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PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

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PHOTO: TIM BURKE

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MONTANA

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

It’s never met a continent it couldn’t handle.

Lighter and more powerful than ever, with a 1084cc engine, Cruise Control, and our available state-of-the-art 6-speed DCT. Select a new Adventure Sports ES model, and you’ll get a slew of additional features like tubeless tires and electronically controlled suspension, for the ultimate off-the-grid adventures.

The Honda Africa Twin powersports.honda.com ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDE AFTER CONSUMING DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK. OBEY THE LAW AND READ THE OWNER’S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. For rider training information or to locate a rider training course near you, call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 1-800-446-9227. Africa Twin® is a registered trademark of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. ©2020 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. (8/20)

Life is Better on a Honda

ACCESSORIZED EUROPEAN MODEL SHOWN WITH NON-OEM TIRES.

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PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

BEPPEDIENA ADV

GRAVEL-T GRAVEL-T

GRAVEL-T is our range of 100% waterproof soft bags, designed for Adventure Touring and off-road use. The GRT709 Canyon bags are a pair of soft saddlebags that give the same functionality and volume of a set of hard aluminum cases, without the weight and bulk.

They are easy to attach and remove, lockable and built to last, rugged enough to protect the side of your motorcycle from minor impacts.

MOUNTING PLATES: the included mounting plates are made of high impact nylon, and they fit the majority of side case mounts available on the market.

REMOVABLE INNER BAGS: 100% waterproof, we decided for the bright yellow fabric to make it easier to spot what you need, even in low light conditions.

M.O.L.L.E. READY: plenty of webbing on the side and on the bottom, the bags also come with a kit of 10 M.O.L.L.E. compatible clips.

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Cont inental Divide - New Mexico Photos and Words: Olivier de Vaulx

Year after year exploring the American wilderness on motorcycles, the idea to share our experience with other riders was becoming more appealing. Our company Moto Trails USA was being patiently shaped during endless discussions around bonfires, after long rides all over the western states. However, the same question was looming over our heads, unanswered: which bike should we use? We rented our customers some nimble dual-sport machines such as the mythical XR650L and DR400Z, powerful twin-cylinders such as the KTM 1090R and the Africa Twin, but it was always too little or too much. The arrival of the long-awaited Tenere 700 seemed to be the game-changer we were dreaming about. With new delays due to Covid putting us at risk of missing out the summer season, we negotiated with Yamaha the shipping of two bikes from France and were finally ready to explore the American wilderness with the Tenere and check if the bike was true to its name.

T he Mot her Of All Rides

The plan was to go back on the tracks we developed all these years, trying to anticipate the way customers would apprehend these trips with this mid-sized adventure bike. Would it be too easy, too difficult? There was only one way to know for sure, and it was to try every mile by ourselves. California and Utah being way too hot in the summer, we opted for the Continental Divide ride, the best adventure you can possibly dream to ride in the US. Following the geographical line upon which the water goes either toward the Atlantic Ocean or the Pacific Ocean, the Continental Divide crosses the USA from South to North over 2,500 miles of mostly perfectly maintained dirt roads. From the border of Mexico to Canada, it was the promise of long days of riding in very remote areas, out of reach from the civilized world.

For those who dream about escaping their daily routine, that’s the ride they need on the top of their bucket list to share with their best friends.

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Forests And Lakes

We started from Silver City, in the south of New Mexico.

There, nature was green, with forests covering the rolling hills and flowers splashing colored dots in the grass. The trails were rough but fun, with plenty of river crossings, the usual ruts here and there, and some nice lakes for a snack break. On the Tenere, we all felt immediately at home.

Standing up was comfortable, and the miles went by in a breeze. The Dunlop Mission tires we mounted gave us a surprisingly good grip on packed dirt and gravel, matching real knobbier while killing it on pavement. Off-road, the ABS-free brakes were smooth, and breaking late in a slippery corner was never an issue. Stable in the rough sections, the Tenere never shook under the impacts and we could use the same lines as on a smaller dual sport. Deceptive at first with its quiet exhaust and its soft demeanor, the engine proved full of surprises. A torquey but perfectly smooth power range throughout the throttle gave the bike power to exit any corner without shifting, while still having enough power to propel us way too fast in between the trees or on the highway. Luckily, the dashboard stayed clear even under the sunlight and reading the excessive speed on the speedometer helped us slow down and keep a safer pace. Feeling safe, we just had to focus on the GPS and to admire the countryside. At times, the forest lightened and we crossed vast plains of fluorescent green grass under an overcast sky or followed high cliffs, vestiges of a tumultuous geological past. This ever-changing scenery and weather made the days look shorter than they were, with no routine whatsoever. Arriving at Pie Town though, we had our first disappointment. The owners of the mythical pie shop gave up during the pandemic and the small restaurant is now for sale. Luckily, there was another place to eat across the street, with a friendly staff and atmosphere, but still, the pie will never taste the same. Overall, these first days in New Mexico were mostly a bucolic ride across a colorful landscape, where you only reach civilization once a day to fill the tanks of the little twins. At the gas stations, we noticed the CP2 engine was literally sipping gas, giving us a staggering average of 64mpg!

Impassable When Wet

Alas, everything is not always perfect in New Mexico. We quickly realized that the sublime dirt we enjoyed in the first days could change suddenly in a inescapable muddy trap. Since it was so green everywhere, we knew it was just a matter of time before we had to face the challenge of New Mexico’s infamous mud, especially with the thunderstorms developing almost every afternoon. All over the backcountry, big signs were warning the impetuous travelers that the trails were impassable when wet. These signs were not erected to warn motorcyclists, mind you! There were warnings for drivers of heavy-duty pickup trucks, fitted with four wheel drive, huge tires and powerful V8s. Needless to say that if these big trucks couldn’t make it, our brilliant Tenere’s didn’t stand a chance. Indeed, we all fell miserably at the first encounter with the enemy just before Grants. Thanks to our soft bags, nobody stayed stuck under the bike… Message received, we updated our GPS tracks to avoid the muddy sections, planning on staying on gravel roads or pavement when we would be back in 2021. There was no shame on using the Tenere on the highway though, since these roads were just as beautiful as their dirt counterparts and the T7 proved to be perfectly happy at high cruising speeds.

Rally-Like Experience

Going up North, the terrain changed again to morph into open desert. Sand, dust, ultra bright sunlight, the ambiance was totally different. The name Tenere rang differently there, and it was hard not to think about the Dakar rally race. Our GPS track brought us through amazingly fun terrain, with just the right amount of bumps and ruts between corners. Trying to ride safely but not really able to resist the temptation, we all rode a bit too fast in this fascinating decor, taking some unusual risks but smiling under our helmets.

Who wouldn’t? Thus, it was not a video game and after one rider survived miraculously a missed turn after a long and exhilarating straight line taken at unreasonable speed, we all went back to a safer pace. Riding slowly also gave us the time to enjoy more of the incredible scenery, with a range of colors only matched by some regions of Utah. As the sunlight turned golden in the end of afternoon, each mile became more colorful than the last and nobody was really in a rush to finish the day. Stopping on a cliff, we were like cowboys in a western movie, missing only the epic music to feel like true heroes. But weren’t we heroes nonetheless, standing here on our Tenere 700 dozen of miles from civilization, in a splendid but otherwise lethal desert?

Only the thoughts of the A/C waiting for us at the hotel could bring us back to reality and we finally made it up in time for happy hour.

Land Of Enchantment

With ever changing landscapes and colors, New Mexico is truly a wonderful place to explore. More importantly, it offers a great diversity of trails to ride, and even if we should get used to it by now, we never found ourselves jaded.

The population is widely spread out, and we could enjoy the awesome trails without worrying much about traffic.

When the mud is absent, crossing this state on the Continental Divide is one of the most exhilarating rides possible!

Last, but not least, the potential of the new Tenere 700 was fully revealed to us and truly helped us enjoy every minute of our journey through the Land of Enchantment. Looking forward to riding the next leg of the trip in Colorado, we feel pretty confident for this new challenge. But that’s another story that you’ll discover next month in Upshift!

VEHICLE DATA ON THE TRAIL LOCATION - SPEED - DISTANCE - TIME - TEMP - ELEVATION

Moto Trails USA Developed over the years since 2014, the concept of Moto Trails USA was finally completed when the Tenere 700 reached the shores of the US. Now with a new website and three trips offered all year long, Moto Trails USA is another opportunity for Upshift readers to go on a true adventure and expand their horizon without having to buy an expensive adventure bike. It’s also the perfect setup for those living on the East coast to get a taste of the extraordinary good riding the West coast has to offer, without the burden of shipping their bikes from coast to coast. Last, but not least, with a van to carry the luggage and a 4WD pickup truck ready to intervene at any moment, it’s the adventure with no extra weight and the exact peace of mind that everybody is looking for! To get more information go to www.mototrailsusa.com

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CHAD REED EASTERN IDAHO OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE “Hey, Cudby, you live in Idaho, right?” I was surprised to get a mid-week text message out of the blue from racing legend Chad Reed. “Do you want to ride off-road with us this weekend in eastern Idaho?”

Of course, the answer was a resounding, “Yes!”

I loaded up the Upshift van and headed out. For six hours, I drove east to meet up with the crew from Mountain Motorsports, one of Chad’s sponsors, for a few days of challenging Idaho single track. I managed to snap a few photos along the way and sit down with the multi-time champion to talk about retiring from racing and trail riding into the future.

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY SIMON CUDBY, ALIGN MEDIA

Upshift: Hey, Chad, we usually see you on the Supercross track. What are you doing out here in Idaho?

Chad Reed: Well, we’re out here in Swan Valley, Idaho. It’s my first time out here, and I’m with the founders of Mountain Motorsports. They’ve actually been coming out here with their families for 30-plus years, which is pretty insane when you think of the family fun and activities that they’ve gotten to do over the years.

When I got involved with them last year doing the car racing stuff, they went M.I.A. for a week, and I was obviously intrigued to know where they went. They told me about riding motorcycles, so I said, “Well, next year, sign me up!”

So here we are, they held true to their word, and man, just a blast, such a beautiful part of the country.

When you’ve been racing pro motocross for the past 18 years, you fly in, you fly out, you’re training, training, training, it’s just endless. Even when you have downtime, the last thing you want to do is get on a plane and travel. So recently retiring it’s so amazing, it’s like Australia in a lot of ways, as a kid growing up, the things you get to see. I didn’t get to fly, we didn’t have money to fly, and as an amateur, you drive to all the events. I feel like you see the world, see the country. Although I flew here, just riding around here getting to witness and doing 60 miles plus a day of single track in the mountains is just unbelievable. Definitely unbelievably passionate about riding motorcycles, and coming out here getting to share something that these guys have been doing for 30-plus years is really fun, I’m enjoying myself!

CHAD REED EASTERN IDAHO OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE

CHAD REED EASTERN IDAHO OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE

CHAD REED EASTERN IDAHO OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE

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CHAD REED EASTERN IDAHO OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE

Upshift: You talked about your retirement. Has it been difficult for you to mentally stop thinking about racing all the time?

C.R.: For the past five or so years, it’s been very normal for me to not think about racing in the summertime, not racing the motocross nationals for a while now. Now we are in August, and I get to go and do a few activities and hang out with my kids.

Obviously, with Covid-19, the world’s changing a lot, so that feels a little bit weird and different. I think October to December and rolling into January, I’ll have a better understanding. I’ll be thinking, “Am I missing this? Do I want to start training?” At some point, your body just knows. At this point, it’s summertime, time to chill, I don’t have to race. When that October, November grind that I’ve been used to for over 22 years doesn’t happen this year, that’s when I’ll go “Wow, I either hate it or love it,” so I’ll know at that point.

Upshift: Tell us about your bike that you have been riding on the trails this week, and what it’s like being in a non-competitive environment.

C.R.: For me, I actually grew up riding trails in Australia, you know we call it “The Bush.” It was very close to where we lived. From a young age, you know 10, 11, 12 years old, my cousin and I would go and for the most part run our bikes out of fuel, and just have enough gas to make it home. Then we’d refuel and go again. So I’m quite familiar with riding a single track, figuring it out, geographically getting lost, then finding my way back home.

CHAD REED EASTERN IDAHO OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE

I’m just loving it, you know, switching to a KTM for the last seven Supercross rounds. You know their line of motorcycles is just impressive. The fact that you can go race Supercross, then X, Y, Z, or whatever else you want to do.

Do you want to ride fire roads? They have a selection for that. For me, I’m riding a KTM 450 XC-F, and it’s just awesome, it’s really fun to ride.

It’s funny, a lot of people always seem like they want to go fast. For me, there’s a time and a place to go fast and push the limits. Every time I get myself in this environment, I feel like I’m just on a Sunday ride. I’m that guy that’s willing to take in the views and just cruise along. I don’t push the pace on the trails, and I don’t take risks. I just try and have fun!

CHAD REED EASTERN IDAHO OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE

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TESTED

BY S TEPHEN W. CLARK

GIVI GRT709 35LTR SADDLEBAGS In last month’s Upshift issue, world traveler extraordinaire Tim Burke wrote a piece comparing hard and soft luggage bags. Tim has lived off his motorcycle for many years on all corners of the globe so his experience and perspective about bags is a great resource for any rider trying to decide which style of bag works best for their situation. We wanted to follow up with a more focused look at a bag that we feel fits right in the middle of the hard vs soft debate: The GIVI GRT709 Canyon saddlebags.

You always need to have the right tools for the job and in the case of adventure motorcycling these tools are your bike, accessories, luggage and clothing. It’s essential that the whole setup works as a package, but the challenge is balancing the features you need for different demands of street and off-road riding. For our recent multi-day trip in Montana on a Suzuki 1050 XT, we knew we would be doing a mix of pavement and light off-road and needed space for several days worth of gear. Essentially we needed the convenience of a hard case but with the safety, style and features of a soft bag. The GIVI GRT709 Canyon saddlebags looked to have the features we needed, so we packed them with several days worth of clothes and headed out.

TESTED: GIVI GRT709 CANYON 35LTR SADDLEBAGS GIVI is an Italian brand with a 40+ year history of building accessories. Their product line is vast with a huge range of windshields, accessories and storage solutions for all segments of motorcycling. The Gravel-T range is their most off-road focused product line of soft luggage.

The GRT709 Canyon is a soft roll top style bag with a stiff back and lockable Unifit quick-release mount with a nylon plate that bolts to tubular side racks. The beauty of this attachment system is that it’s secure and allows for easy removal of the bags. The mount has a mechanical interface and a keyed lock mechanism at the top of the bag that is easy to access. The quick release system coupled with the two large handles and shoulder straps made removing and carrying the bags into the hotel at the end of the day quite simple.

The saddlebags feature a waterproof liner and although we didn’t experience any wet weather, we did ride in a lot of dust and the contents stayed clean which was really nice. In addition to the large center compartment, the bags have a separate vertical end compartment that allows you to store quick-access items without opening up the main compartment every time. This was really helpful for storing snacks and bottles that we would frequently consume on the ride. On the rear of the bag there is molle webbing that allows you to attach other gear externally.

As the debate between soft and hard bags rages on, removable bags like the GIVI Gravel-T slot nicely in between the two extremes. GIVI has done a great job of marrying road focused features like the easy to remove, lockable base and the off-road style roll top soft bag to create a system that offers the best of both worlds: One that is equally at home on the street as it is in the dirt. MSRP: $699.00 www.giviusa.com

TESTED

BY CHAD DE ALVA

SENA 50S The SENA 50S brings a number of new technologies and quality of life improvements to SENA’s line of proven Bluetooth motorcycle communication systems. Headline features on the 50S include: Mesh 2.0 intercom, Bluetooth 5, HD Speakers, easy firmware updates, and an all new app which all work together to create an enjoyable user experience. SENA has packed all this new tech into a familiar form factor which means that if you are familiar with using their devices, you’ll be able to take full advantage of this new stuff right from the start. It also means that the 50S will work with the helmet bases from the SENA 20S and 30K systems, so don’t go retiring your old gear just yet.

There’s a lot of cool new things here, so let’s dig in.

I’ve been a fan of SENA’s button layout and jog dial since I first experienced it five-odd years ago on my 20S. Even with insulated gloves on, making the inputs you want is relatively easy, and all of the buttons are unique enough that you really can’t fat finger a button press. I’m glad to see that SENA has kept this system around, because it works well and it doesn’t require learning a new control layout to get up to speed with the 50S. Keeping the mostly familiar form factor also means that if you have 20S or 30K, your helmet base will work with the 50S, so cheers to SENA for the backwards compatibility.

With an extra base, I can leave one on my ADV helmet and the other on my moto helmet, so no matter what type of ride I am gearing up for, I can easily bring my 50S with me. One last plus about the helmet base is that it is easy to plug in earbuds – no adapter required. Riding motorcycles can easily expose you to sound levels that can damage your hearing, so I would suggest using ear buds with some measure of Noise Reduction Rating (NRR) to help protect your hearing.

SENA’s 50S (and its sibling the 50R) are the first headsets to support Mesh 2.0 intercoms which work exponentially better than the group intercoms of old. I can think back to a number of times where other riders in my group would get so frustrated trying to make a group intercom work that they would simply give up on the process. Thankfully Mesh 2.0 intercoms are a breeze to set up and configure. Joining a mesh intercom with a 50S is as simple as raising the antenna and pressing a button one time. It’s a wonderful thing when technology makes life easier – and that’s exactly what the 50S does for intercoms. In the interest of full disclosure, I need to point out that I haven’t had the opportunity to try out mesh 2.0 intercom with more than two 50S units, but I would expect that adding a few more users wouldn’t break the system.

TESTED: SENA 50S The 50S features Bluetooth 5, which is a more current Bluetooth standard that offers a number of geeky advantages over older Bluetooth standards. With the 50S you can take full advantage of your phone’s assistant, pair your 50S to your GPS, and set up Bluetooth intercoms with other headsets. With all this Bluetooth connectivity, it’s important to make sure that you keep track of where you are sending your audio – otherwise your phone may try to send your music to your GPS, or someplace you can’t hear it. Related to revised standards on the 50S, you will also find a USB Type-C port on the unit, which enables faster charging and a very slick way to handle firmware updates. With other SENA headsets, updating the firmware involved using a computer, downloading an app, and then downloading and installing the correct firmware. With the 50S and its included WiFi adapter USB cable, all you have to do is add the adapter to your WiFi network one time, and then every time you plug in your SENA to the adapter it will check firmware for you. As long as the adapter has a WiFi connection, it will ensure that your 50S has the latest firmware, so you never have to worry about keeping your 50S up to date. And the new features don’t end here – SENA has also developed a completely new app to for the 50 series units.

The new SENA 50 Utility app is a welcome change from the SENA Utility apps of old. The new app is easy to use and figuring out where you need to go to make the change you want is easy. However, the new app still has to download the manuals before you can open them, which can leave you unable to view a manual if you try to view it for the first time when you don’t have a data connection. So make sure to download your manuals before you head off grid. It would be awesome to see SENA bake the manuals into the app so they are just always accessible.

Rounding out the cool new stuff for the 50S are the new HD Speakers which are smaller in both height and diameter than previous versions. These new speakers pack upgraded drivers that are advertised to produce more bass, volume, and clarity. I’m happy to report that when compared back to back, or helmet to helmet against the speakers from my 20S, the new HD speakers perform better. Playing a variety of genres on both systems while sitting in a quiet room I would definitely say that SENA has improved their speaker driver’s frequency response and overall sound quality.

There is also plenty of volume to overpower wind noise in your helmet, so please don’t hurt your hearing by cranking these speakers to the point that your music is doing more damage to your hearing than the wind noise from riding.

Comparing the 50S to the older SENA units I’ve used, the 50S brings improvements to every area where older SENA headsets have left something to be desired. Therefore, I have to give SENA a high-five for continuing to improve their products. I have not discovered a single aspect of the 50S where I’ve found myself wishing I was still using an older SENA headset. Were this my first experience using a SENA product, I would be quite happy with my purchase.

So know that if you are new to SENA, you are going to get a functional Bluetooth communication system that does everything it’s advertised to with minimal fuss. Full support of your phone’s assistant means that you can use your assistant in the exact same manner that you would while sitting at home. In other words, you can do just about anything while underway – as long as you have a data connection. Intercoms are one of the big reasons that riders invest in a motorcycle communication system, and the 50S delivers in spades on this one. A single button press is all it takes to hop into an open mesh intercom, which I’d wager is sufficient for the vast majority of riding groups out there. Yet, if you need to, Mesh 2.0 supports nine channels for folks to group up in. The 50S can also pair up with other SENA headsets via a Bluetooth intercom, so you’ll still be able to talk it up with your riding buddies who are still using older SENA systems, but I’d encourage you to suggest they upgrade. Life with the 50S has proven to be pretty nice.

TESTED: SENA 50S When it comes to a new generation of a given piece of gear, there’s always a chance that the manufacture will miss the mark. Instead of improving on the previous generation, they’ll break the formula for a proven product and consumers will end up sticking to their old devices. So it’s really awesome to see when a company handles a generational improvement correctly by making everything better – and that’s exactly what SENA has done with the 50S. My SENA 20S has served me well for five years – but it certainly had its shortcomings: intercom pairing and the app experience were the two big issues. Yet, with the 50S, both of these issues have been completely addressed, and made to work quite well. SENA has also made improvements to the other features and aspects of the 50S experience, and they all add up to a Bluetooth motorcycle helmet that is a joy to use. I can still use my old helmet bases, and the USB Type-C port means I now only need to bring one standard cable with me on a ride. When I get back home, I can plug my 50S into the WiFi adapter for a charge, and I know I’ll have a fully charged and updated system that’s ready for my next ride. If you have been on the fence about upgrading to a 50S – do it. If you have been looking to get a Bluetooth motorcycle communication system, the 50S is a great way to go. MSRP: $339.00 www.sena.com

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V-STROM 1050XT ADVENTURE

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WORDS AND PHOTOS BY TIm BURKE

THE EMERALD ISLE

IRELAND

First thing, first. It’s essential that you read all the quotations in this article in your best Irish accent. It’ll help the story.

Trust me.

Ireland is good. Ireland is so good. It’s good in every way that a motorcycle trip needs to be. From tiny roads to stunning vistas, ancient cobblestone streets twist through the greenest colors you’ve ever seen. Historic ruins and stone walls that were built generations ago are literally everywhere. This tiny island is only about the size of the US State of Maine, but it packs a personality the size of Jupiter.

Before jumping around, I need to explain my first trip to Ireland and why I keep finding excuses to come back.

I first rolled off a boat in Belfast, having had just come from Scotland. It was immediately after my week-long adventure with Chris Modell and the boys from Rentamotorcycle.co.uk Whisky Bent and Scotland Bound, Issue 15. That’s a ridiculous story in-and-of-itself!

Anyways, there I was: Still recovering from my liver-straining adventure in Scotland (literally dedicated to tasting whiskys at the end of every days’ ride) thinking to myself, “I need a break.”

So, as any person lacking logic would do, I beeline for Ireland and roll off a boat into the most social country on planet earth with more iconic pubs, ancient taverns, and hoppin’ bars than one can shake a stick at.

Per usual, I had no game plan, but since I was already in the north, I figured I’d trace the island in a counter-clockwise direction. I’d explore the northern coast and, eventually, cross the non-existent border into the Republic of Ireland.

While I will not be going into the fascinating, sometimes violent, history between the two, I will say, I was treated like family (by complete strangers) on both sides of the border and in every corner of the land.

I traced the shore via the “Coastal Causeway Route.” It’s not hard to get away from busy roads and traffic here. The first three hours riding my motorcycle in Ireland, had me smiling so hard inside my helmet, that my cheeks started to hurt. Blue skies somehow make the lush green hills along the coast look like a scene from a Disney fairy tale. There’s no way this is real life!

North of Derry/Londonderry (depends whose map you’re looking at), it was time to get the tires dirty. I headed out on a small dirt road that would take me to Malin Head – Ireland’s northernmost point.

It started off well, but it didn’t take long for Ireland’s wet, soupy, boggy roads to have its way with a heavy ADV bike. At first, the road appeared to be in good shape, and I told myself that if it got bad, I’d turn around. Well, with the assistance of gravity on my side, I made it down the gradually-deteriorating path just fine.

It was at the bottom of a hill that I encountered the flooded area.

I felt the bike sink like a stone.

The mud yanked my front tire out from under the bike, and over she went. Luckily, it fell to the left and away from a steep embankment. “Not a big deal. I’m pretty well-practiced at picking up this motorcycle,” I thought. This time though, I was battling the suction of mud. As soon as I would pick the bike up, it would slide further into the ditch. I was miles from the nearest paved road.

Eventually, I swallowed my pride and started hiking out to find assistance. It took 5 miles to get to the nearest town when I found two teenage friends on ATVs, who were hearing of the situation, grabbed some rope, and gave me a ride back to the bike on their ATVs. After helping to lift the bike out of the mud pit and push it backward, we determined the best way out was the way I came in. Without the assistance of these guys, I’d have been out of luck. The adventure shall continue.

I’d weave my way down Ireland’s west coast following the absolutely spectacular “Wild Atlantic Way.” The WAW is a 2500km route that passes through 9 counties and countless small villages.

Buzzing fishing villages dot the route and hidden, white-sand beaches lie at the bottom of massive cliffs as the road climbs and descends through some of the greatest beauty that Europe has to offer. The Wild Atlantic Way, if planning an Ireland trip, is a sure-fire way to have your jaw on the ground for hours at a time.

South, from Donegal, I traveled to Achill Island. Pin this on your maps, my friends. I had no idea how gorgeous this rugged island would be. The mansion-turned-hostel that I stayed at, the Valley House, is centuries old with riveting history and has its own bar and restaurant. The live music in the smokey bar made for an environment that kept me for two days past schedule. To this day, it easily pushes the Valley House to the top of my “best hostels” list.

It was a Wednesday morning when I was sitting in Galway cafe, hoping that coffee would help take the edge off last night’s hangover when I got a message from Owen Garrigan. Owen, at the time, was a stranger. Now, he’s one of my closest friends.

“Hey, Tim. My girlfriend Laura and I and a group of friends will be on motorcycles passing along some roads on the Connemara Peninsula” and then… “Well, we’ll probably just stop at a pub to drink Guinness. Not sure how much Guinness we’ll drink and I’m not sure how much motorbiking will occur after the Guinness, because last year, people got pretty ‘wobbly’. But if you want to join, we’d love to have ya, lad. Buncha pilots and aviation folk too; Laura and I are pilots on the Boeing 737 and our buddy Damien, he’s a 747 pilot. You’d fit right in. Come drink some Guinness with us!!”… Well, twist my arm.

It didn’t take long before one Guinness turned into two, into three, so on and so forth. We sat around a low-lit, peat-heated pub in Leenaun, County Galway, listening to one of the locals play his fiddle.

I’m not sure how much Guinness was had at this point, but at some point, Owen, Laura, and I started putting together the pieces of who we knew in the aviation industry – it is small after all.

Long story short, Owen and Laura were pilots for a low-cost, Dublin-based airline that exclusively flies Boeing 737s around Europe.

It turns out that Owen and Laura did their primary flight training at “National Flight Centre” in Dublin, owned and operated by Kieran O’Connor – my former coworker/roommate/close friend Kevin Lyon’s uncle! The world gets smaller when you go to Ireland, apparently!

Another week goes by of exploring Ireland’s rugged coast, coves, and cliffs. My time in Ireland is coming to an end but not before ringing in my birthday in Dublin. As you can probably surmise, my trip to Ireland to “take a break” after whisky tasting in Scotland: A massive failure. I blame the locals.

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Fast-forward a year. After traveling through South America, I found myself back in Europe; still, a homeless motorcycler. I just finished riding Sweden and Norway on a Triumph Tiger 800XC (Chasing the Midnight Sun – Issue 27) when I decided that skipping Ireland wasn’t an option. There was a magnetic pull.

I’m on a tram in Amsterdam – My phone chirps – WhatsApp message from Owen: “Hi Tim. I see you’re in Europe.

What do you think about passing through Dublin to fly with Laura and me? It’s our last flight together before Laura goes to ‘Airline X’ and I go to ‘Airline Y’” “What do you mean, ‘fly’ with you? How will that work?”

“Fly with us in the jump seat. We’ll have to do some paperwork, but we can make it happen!”

Sold. I was bound for Dublin. See, Owen and Laura had been working at the aforementioned Dublin-based airline and would bid for the same schedules together. It resulted in them flying as a team, Owen, as a captain. Laura, as a first officer. On their very last flight together, before moving on in their careers, I had the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to “jump-seat” with them in the cockpit of a Boeing 737-800.

The alarm went off at about 430am, and we were bound for Dublin airport in Owen’s Toyota. A round-trip flight to Alicante, Spain was on the itinerary.

“RyanAir 385, Winds 310 at 12. Runway 28. Cleared for take-off.”

It was Laura’s leg, so she would be the pilot flying (PF) while Owen would be the pilot monitoring (PM) and would control various autopilot settings, lift the landing gear after take-off, retract the flaps, and handle Air Traffic Control communications. Laura slowly and deliberately pushes the throttles forward to 40% power while Owen “guards” the throttles by the base. Owen announces that the engine thrust is stabilized, and Laura advances the throttles to max take-off power. We start barreling down Runway 28.

Owen starts audibly announcing critical airspeeds to Laura so that she can focus on keeping the aircraft pointed directly down the runway centerline in the gusty Irish winds.

“80knots… V1…Rotate!”

We have now accelerated through the pre-calculated airspeed at which the aircraft, no matter what, can safely be stopped on the runway: Otherwise known as the “accelerate-stop” distance. After V1 airspeed is passed, even if an emergency presents itself, the aircraft will be taken into the air and dealt with accordingly – even if that means declaring an emergency and returning to the airport for an emergency landing.

The engines are now howling as we accelerate through about 140kts (160mph.) “Rotate” Laura now pulls back on the control column or “yoke” and brings the nose of the 737 off the dashed runway centerline. The main wheels follow shortly afterward as she pulls 176,000 lbs (79,900kg) of metal and 189 passengers into the air.

Laura pitches the nose to maintain a particular airspeed that will provide a maximum climb gradient. Laura requests “Gear Up,” and Owen reaches across the throttle quadrant and lifts the gear handle up.

We’re off to Spain!

There’s something really special about seeing close friends, in the professional-workspace, doing what they do best… and I got to see it at 40,000 feet. We flew down to the Spanish coast, dropped off 189 passengers, fueled up, and flew back to Dublin with 189 more. Guess what we drank to celebrate the end of a chapter while raising our pint glasses to new ones?

The morning after, sipping on black coffee in Owen and Laura’s Drimnagh-home, we sit, trying to figure out what to do with the week ahead. A few bad ideas are thrown around until we settle on the fact that renting motorcycles is probably one of the better ones. Within the hour, we’re bound for Celtic Rider, Ireland’s award-winning, motorcycle-rental company.

Located in County Kildare, Ireland, 16 miles west of Dublin, you wouldn’t even suspect business of such caliber to be down such a tiny, stereotypical, one-lane dirt road with stone walls lining both sides. If you could bottle up Ireland’s charm in one small package, the Rawlins family who runs Celtic Rider is it. The business is run from the family home – a house built in 1527. A more modern building houses the company’s offices, moto-gear, and a fleet of 57 motorcycles.

Louise Rawlins, her father Paul, and her mom Siobhán are the first faces to greet us when we arrive.

Inside, a massive selection of brand-new Klim gear lines the shop-floor: Badlands, Carlsbad, Artemis jackets, and Krios Helmets everywhere. Photographs of Paul, with every important personality to ever visit Ireland, are pinned to the walls.

Liam, the fleet manager (and seasonal Long Beach BMW Irish-mascot – I don’t know his job title, so I’m calling him their mascot), eventually comes out to greet us. I’m telling you, these three will make you laugh out loud. Louise runs the business side of the operation while Paul and Liam run the technical, mechanical, and motorcycle-side of things. Paul knows every square inch of Ireland. Seriously, every square inch. He was one of the contributing designers of Ireland’s famous “Wild Atlantic Way” (mentioned earlier).

Celtic Rider is one-stop shopping for even those who walk off the airplane in Dublin with nothing but the clothes on their back. If necessary, a shuttle service can pick you up, bring you to the shop, and outfit you head to toe in top-of-the-line Klim gear. Helmets, boots, gloves, and a Gore-Tex suit. It literally doesn’t get easier than this.

The gear is rentable for a daily-fee, and once you’re done with your trip, if you want to buy the gear, they’ll deduct the rental fees from the jacket. It’s a pretty brilliant excuse to show up empty-handed, have the best ride of your life, and leave with new gear!

It’s not long before the Rawlins family gives these three degenerates a couple of brand new R1200GS motorcycles, a detailed list of suggestions (that even GoogleMaps knows nothing about) and sends us on our way into the Irish countryside.

We head off westbound, towards Ireland’s famed coastlines. The first stop takes us through Cork and on into the fishing village of Kinsale on the south coast. Eventually, we make our way over one of Ireland’s epic mountain passes, Healy Pass. Windy, twisty roads only the width of American sidewalks, climb through green pastures on the way to the summit. Having this much fun – scraping footpegs on every hairpin – feels like it should be illegal.

Up next comes one of my favorite Irish cities and areas of the country. We descend out of the mountains and into the bustling city of Killarney. “Gap of Dunloe” road is prime-time Irish riding.

It’s your quintessential “used to be a cow path, but now it’s a road” Irish street that songs and poems are written about. It climbs high above Killarney, Ireland, on a sidewalk-width paved path, tracing a dark-watered, peat-stained river with waterfalls around every corner. Just as we made it over the crest Molls Gap, 360-degree view of the mountains, the black clouds rolled in. One thing Celtic Rider does not make promises on is the weather.

Hey… it’s Ireland. Belly up to a bar and get yourself a pint! The weather will change again in about 45 seconds.

Never quite getting over 40 mph, we push on to the north arriving to Dingle. No, that’s not a typo. It’s just Dingle: fresh seafood, pubs, live music, a distillery, and epic cliff-side roads that, in my opinion, are the best “coast roads” in Europe. What more can you want? Dingle is a village not to miss.

Our clock is counting down, and it’s time to start heading back to Dublin with the bikes. We stop in Galway for one more “last stand” before heading east.

“How ya lads keeping?” We’re greeted by Louise as we rumbled back into Celtic Rider. I’m pretty sure they’re used to seeing people return with a grin from here to Donegal.

While COVID19 has most of our plans on the back burner for now, Ireland is something you may want to bump up the ol’ bucket list once normalcy makes a return!

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An Unexpected Ride Report Taking a large scale motorcycle trip is an incredibly formative experience for any rider. Being on the road and outside of your usual routes presents the opportunity to create the experiences we only dream of when scrolling through our favorite motorcycle hashtags. It also teaches us valuable life lessons in self-reliance and how we respond to the unexpected challenges we never plan for. I learned an incredible amount and grew tremendously as a rider during my recent one month, 8,000 mile-long ride through the Canadian Maritimes. In the nature of the tight-knit motorcycle community we love, I’m happy to share these experiences with you.

By SCOTT BRADLEY

T R A V E L ING AL ONE First and foremost, taking a long trip by yourself is something I recommend any motorcyclist do at least once in your life. It’s one thing to go on a quick weekend jaunt, but being out on the road for weeks at a time brings about compelling experiences. One of the most significant aspects is not being beholden to anyone else’s schedule.

There’s never a worry about a less adventurous riding partner stifling your itinerary or keeping you away from an impulsive detour. You’re entirely untethered to go wherever you want whenever you please. Being far out in unfamiliar territory without a friendly face can be a bit alienating at first, with no sort of comfort zone to fall back on. But completely breaking free from the natural forces some self-reflection.

Some of my best memories were on the Cote-Nord Route, riding the undulating curves of the coastal St Lawrence with nothing to think about but the next apex as the pine’s scent mixed with the salty air. When there’s nothing to remind you of home, even the slightest sensation is an experience. Beyond each bend is an entirely unfamiliar place. The urge to consume the next moment is a driving force of discovery. It also pushes you to confront your anxieties of “what if” with nothing to fall back on but yourself.

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T hing s w il l g o w r ong With all the planning and preparation at your disposal, things will still go south, and there’s little you can do about it. One of the high points of my route was to take the Cabot Trail and bask in its ocean-hugging mountainside curves. However, when I finally made it to the highlands’ foothills, the skies opened up with constant rain and fog, refusing to yield more than a few feet of visibility as I climbed the mountains.

After cautiously making it through, the only descent was a section of construction on a 12% grade of soupy mud.

What usually would have been thrill-inducing hairpins became a veritable soil skating rink. Fortunately, my offroad experience kicked in. With some judicious braking and gentle throttle, I dropped out of the fog bank into one of the most stunning vistas in all my 75,000+ miles of riding.

My two takeaways from experience were as follows: if we can’t control the situation, we can control how we react. We don’t ride because it’s easy to ride for the challenge and reward. When faced with something overwhelming or unsettling, we have the power to choose how we react. Once I hit the mud, there was no turning back. Keeping calm and confident is what gave me the ability to fully utilize my skills and navigate the treacherous situations. Also, challenges like these are inevitably part of the riding experience. If we recognize them as teaching moments, we can greater appreciate our accomplishments and save the worst moments as remarkable stories to tell.

An y w he re c an be a C amp s i t e During longer adventures staying on budget is critical to sustaining the trip, especially regarding lodging. Thankfully I learned quickly how exceptionally easy it is to make your own camping arrangements with some necessary discretion. One of the best finds was a half-hour east of Baie-Comeau on a whale-watching trail, where a half-mile dirt tracking opened up to a cliff side clearing overlooking the water. The spot was dead flat, cost zero dollars, and the only noise at night was the St Lawrence crashing against the rocks!

From boat launches to picnic areas, just about anything can be fair game as long as you’re not trespassing or imposing on a public space. When in doubt, asking the locals can be exceptionally helpful. In the village of L’anse St Jean at the base of the Saguenay fjords was an absolutely stunning rest area on the shores, but right next to a fire pit was no camping signage. After going into town for dinner, I cautiously asked the waitress with some gestures and broken French, only to learn there were no police within an hour and a half radius. Even if they were summoned, Canada doesn’t issue citations for intrepid campers! Speaking of talking to the locals…

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RIDE RESPECTFULLY OR DON’T RIDE BDR

It’s a privilege to enjoy backcountry motorcycle travel, especially on scenic dirt roads that pass through small rural towns.

We all need to do our part and respect local laws, the environment, and the people who live along BDR routes.

We are guests in their community.

Always remember to: • Slow down in residential areas • Adhere to speed limits • Minimize engine noise near homes • Yield to pedestrians and animals • Always wave and be friendly

Learn more respect at:

RideBDR.com/Ride Respectfully Request your FREE stickers: info@RideBDR.com

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Be f rie ndly w i t h w hoMe v e r y ou me e t I’ve always heard about the notion of Canadian hospitality, and it absolutely rang true. I crossed the border into Quebec just as the sun was setting, and needed to figure out where the hell I was going to sleep. As I pulled into a McDonald’s’ parking lot, I heard the familiar drone of boxer engines in the distance. Two older Quebecois pulled up on their BMW’s, and after seeing my GS, they started excitedly chattering about what I assume was moto talk if I comprehended their French. After the language barrier became blatantly apparent, they offered to take me on a ride to light up some local “greenery.” I declined, as having a place to rest my head was a priority, but their kindness was heartwarming!

Fortunately, I ended up with a roof over my head in Montreal, thanks to a Facebook Page called Bunk-A-Biker. It connects you to a network of fellow motorcyclists who are happy to open their home to you for a night. Jacques was a member of the local rider’s club, and couldn’t wait to show me how the smooth idle of his Honda Valkyrie wouldn’t disturb a coin placed on its flat-6 engine case. He was in recovery from a pretty severe leg injury thanks to an incompetent left-turning driver, but I promised to keep in touch so he could live vicariously through the coming adventure.

The page came in handy yet again when I linked up with a rider named Sebastian right out of Quebec City. I outlined the route I had planned, and he gave me some exceptional redirection. My original plan was to take the most direct route out to the Fjords, but he instead guided me to the road through Grands Jardins National Park, and his advice was right on the money. Route 381 rose from the shores of the St Lawrence and shot up into the mountains rife with exceptional curves and dirt trails.

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Don’t become fixated on “getting there” When we plan our trips, there is an inherent tendency to focus on a specific destination, be it a city or even a particular road. But getting too caught up in the sense of urgency to arrive can make you miss out on enjoying the experience. If you spend the whole time booking it on the highway, you’re liable to miss an unmarked dirt trail or the hidden gem of a back road yet to be overrun.

On my way back across Newfoundland, I was faced with a choice: either slough across the Trans Canadian Highway (the only major thoroughfare) for the night or take a 3-hour detour each way to a Hostel in the town of Twillingate. The detour proved to be one of the best decisions of the trip, and I was greeted to a fiery display in the sky as the sun set behind a storm rolling over the Atlantic Ocean.

Earlier on in the trip, I was so eager to get onto the Cabot Trail that I decided to deal with the rain instead of waiting for a break. With time to kill before the ferry to Newfoundland the next day, I decided to make a second run at the highlands. As I got closer, the mountains were once again shrouded in an impenetrable bank of fog. In a spur of the moment decision, I fueled up and turned right out of the nearest gas station parking lot onto what I learned was the Cabot Coastal Loop. In my opinion, the Coastal Loop was better than the whole Cabot route, with incredibly thrilling stretches of tarmac dancing along a rocky precipice. There was even a stretch of technical double track out to the tip of White Point Island, which brings me to my next point.

Know when to turn around When exploring new places (especially off pavement), it’s easy to get wrapped up in the excitement and curiosity of what’s over the next hill or down a mysterious trail. But it’s exceptionally important that we listen to our gut and know when to pump the brakes. Knowing the limit to your skills and letting logic override brash exuberance can be the difference between thrilling adventure and a debilitating setback.

As the trail out to White Point got narrower, I was passed by a fellow rider on an F800GS, who was turning around after it got too treacherous. Although I was eager to see the top of the cliffs, a photo op wasn’t worth the risk of falling onto a rock bed and sending a shard through my engine case.

This trip was full of so many firsts in my 5 years of riding. It was the longest trip of my life in both distance and time, and the experiences had will stick with me forever. It taught me how the adventure isn’t just about miles logged and scenery consumed, but the unexpected opportunities it presents that expand your horizon of experiences. Open up to the uncertainty of the road, and you’ll return home with some amazing experiences of your own.

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