Issue 50
October 2020
KTM 500 EXC-F KTM 500 EXC-F KTM 500 EXC-F KTM 500 EXC-F
RELENT DUAL PURPOSE POWERHOUSE The KTM 500 EXC-F is a new generation 4-stroke, dual purpose powerhouse. Ready to crush the miles ahead, its versatility for both on-and offroad stands bar none. Packed with 510 cc from the SOHC single cylinder, the KTM 500 EXC-F holds its own as the most powerful model in its class.
ktmusa
Photo: R. Schedl
Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes. Always wear protective safety gear and ride in a responsible manner. The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and feature optional equipment available at additional cost.
TLESS
KTM Group Partner
husqvarna-motorcycles.com
There’s a definite thrill in getting out there, blazing new trails for others to follow. Excited by the prospect of heading into the unknown, you need a machine perfectly primed for the unpredictability of off-road. With easy rideability and superior trail capability, the 2021 TE 300i has the proven credentials to face any challenge with intuitive ease.
Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes. Always wear protective safety gear and ride in a responsible manner. The illustrated vehicles may vary selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment availalbe at additional cost.
Photos: R. Schedl, KISKA GmbH
Ride confidently into the unknown.
T E
Electronic fuel injection Durable header pipe MAGURA hydraulic clutch
300i
Issue 50
October 2020
Issue 50 OCTOBER 2020
THE INSIDER
Cover Simon Cudby
Are Print Magazines Dead?
Design Chris Glaspell
INSTA-ADV
Photography Editor Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Tim Burke Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Freddie Lex MotoMorgana Dale Spangler Contributing Photographers Tim Burke Stephen W. Clark Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx MotoMorgana Story Editor Andrew Glaspell Business Development Brandon Glanville
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BIKES-GEAR
The Latest
WIDE OPEN
Views Through The Lens
PANDEMIC ADVENTURES Riding the Western United States
COLORADO Continental Divide
Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com
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TECH
Coolant Technology
AFRICA What A Ride
Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2020. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.
FIRST RIDE
2020 Africa Twin 1100
ARE PRINT MAG
GAZINES DEAD? INSIDER: DALE SPANGLER As if the times we live in aren’t strange enough, apparently we’re in the midst of a sea of change in the ever-changing landscape of motorcycle magazine media publications. Recently, it was announced that Cycle World, one of the oldest motorcycle publications still in print, would deliver its last print issue in October of 2020. After that, the magazine would be delivered in a digital-only format. For many, the news did not come as a surprise, as print magazine page counts have dwindled to brochure-thin levels of less than 45 pages (including ads) for years. Perhaps it was inevitable, but to those of us who’ve been around powersports our entire lives, it seems like the end of an era. Which is not to say I think print is dead. There are many niche motorcycle print publications out there doing well. In fact, in a surprise move, Harley-Davidson recently announced the re-introduction of its magazine The Enthusiast in print and digital versions. Regardless of one’s favored format, the fact remains, the number of digital publications (like the one you are reading now) has steadily increased in the last five-plus years. Many magazines that began in print are now delivered in a digital-only format, and it’s easy to understand why. For one, digital allows publishers to deliver more content to readers by removing the constraints of page counts and printing costs. Additionally, digital magazine formats allow publishers to be more flexible and integrate other media such as videos and podcasts into each issue. Is it a perfect medium that replaces the look, feel, and experience of a printed magazine? Of course not. For some, nothing will ever replace the experience of reading a printed magazine. But like everything in our lives, as technology continues to evolve, the user experience will improve. Eventually, we’ll become accustomed to the digital magazine format as an accepted norm, or something else will come along and make the experience even better. Until then, enjoy this print and digital wild west period of the motorcycle media landscape for as long as you can.
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Ténéré 700. The Next Horizon is yours. YamahaMotorsports.com Professional rider depicted on a closed course. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long sleeves, long pants, gloves and boots. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. ©2020 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved.
Yamaha Announces 2021 WR250F and WR450F Motorcycles
Yamaha Motor Corporation, USA, has announced its 2021 WR Enduro models including a redesigned WR450F, the machine of choice for serious trail riders and enduro racers. Designed with the flexibility to win in the tightest enduro conditions as well as fast, rough, open trails, the newest WR450F features a refined, more efficient engine, a redesigned frame with all-new flex characteristics, updated suspension settings, and more. WR450F MSRP: $9,799 WR450F All-New Cylinder Head: The WR450F’s already potent engine was treated to a host of go-fast refinements, including new combustion chamber geometry with steeper valve angles, more aggressive cam profiles, a higher compression piston with low friction rings, longer connection rod, larger exhaust head pipe connector, a high flow air filter, more efficient breather system and more—all while fitting under a smaller and lighter magnesium valve cover. Revised Bilateral Beam Frame: The WR450F aluminum frame features all-new flex characteristics that give riders the ultimate combination of precise cornering performance, traction and bump stability. By tuning the rigidity balance of the chassis with changes to the lateral beams and engine cradle tube thickness as well as engine mounts, top triple clamp and front axle, the 2021 WR450F takes rider confidence to new levels. Updated Suspension Tuning: The 2021 WR450F features revised front and rear damping tuned in concert with the updated chassis to improve cornering performance, traction and bump absorption. With smoother chassis movement, the rider is able to make the most of the engine’s exceptional power with greater confidence. New Braking Systems: A new, more rigid front caliper with new pads and disc boost brake feel and controllability. The front brake rotor dissipates heat more efficiently, for more consistent performance under racing conditions.
WR450F
WHAT DOES YOUR ADVENTURE LOOK LIKE? ON-ROAD
OFF-ROAD
90% ON-ROAD /10% OFF-ROAD
40% ON-ROAD /60% OFF-ROAD
Visit www.BridgestoneMotorcycleTires.com for more info & details.
WR250F With electric start, a 2.16-gallon fuel tank, rugged plastic skid plate, sealed O-ring chain,18-inch rear wheel and fully featured enduro meter, the WR250F is ready to win right out of the box. With reliable fuel injection that provides clean running regardless of weather or elevation, a compact headlight, taillight and aluminum side-stand, the 2021 WR250F provides the confidence and comfort for any adventure. The 2021 WR250F will be available from dealers in October. $8,599 MSRP. www.yamahamotorsports.com High-Tech Quarter-Liter Enduro Racer: The WR250F™ builds on Yamaha’s exceptional motocross race platforms—the YZ250F™—with added features and unique settings designed to optimize the WR® for enduro riding. Strong and Compact Electric Start Engine: A high-compression cylinder head, forged piston, aggressive cam profiles, cylinder geometry and much more work together to give WR250F riders a broad spread of useable thrust with excellent high-rpm power. All available with the convenient push of a button starting that features a compact starter motor system battery. Advanced Alloy Frame: Yamaha’s bilateral beam aluminum frame is derived straight from the YZ250F to centralize mass and provide an ideal balance between cornering feel and straight-line confidence. Class-Leading Suspension: Yamaha uses KYB® spring-type forks on the WR250F, with industry leading functionality and easy tuneability for a wide range of conditions. EPA-Compliant Emissions: Thanks to carefully balanced ECU tuning and a Forestry Service-complaint spark arrestor-type muffler, the WR250F is ready to go where you want, when you want.
WR250F
New Klim Adventure GTX Boot Adventure touring requires a fine balance between riding protection, weather protection and walking comfort. The Adventure GTX boots are engineered from rugged materials, using an intuitive design to bring comfort, durability and ease of use to any adventure touring ride. Unique feature sets deliver unrestrictive support tailored for long distances, without eliminating important walking comfort for visiting your destination. Comes in sizes 7 through 14. Colors: stealth black, asphalt - Hi-Vis. MSRP: $449.99 Available for pre-order now at www.klim.com.
• Gore-Tex® guaranteed to keep you dry Michelin® rubber outsole for durability • Removable moisture-wicking antimicrobial Ortholite® insole w/ gel heel pad • Reinforced shin plate • Reinforced toe/ankle area • 5mm XRD® impact protection foam ankle pucks • 5mm XRD® impact protection foam mid-foot top padding • Plastic ankle cam buckle w/ deflector • Velcro calf closure • Boa® fit system for fast precision fit • Shifter plate • Moisture-wicking breathable liner • ½ Size insert for fine tuning fit 2 PAGEassist AD.pdfpull 1 loop 8/27/20 12:40 PM • Entry
THE 2021 UPSHIFT CALENDAR IS HERE! ONLY
$19.99
ORDER TODAy AT OCTANEPRESS.COM
WP Releases The New XPLOR PRO 8946 Shock WP Suspension North America, Inc. is pleased to announce the launch of the new WP XPLOR PRO COMPONENTS. The package of the latest innovation in motorsports and handcrafted perfection takes the performance of Enduro machines to the limits of what is physically possible. XPLOR PRO helps enduro riders to get through even the most demanding terrain faster, more efficiently and with significantly more power to the ground. The combination of all-star technologies consists of both SUPERTRAX and PROGRESSIVE DAMPING SYSTEM (PDS). The WP XPLOR PRO 8946 Shock is unaffected by all the obstacles the terrain throws at it. Due to the highly innovative SUPERTRAX technology, the rebound speed can be optimized via adjusters after a lift-off of the rear wheel and the time without ground contact can be drastically reduced. The XPLOR PRO 8946 Shock will be available for the following MY2017-2021 KTM motorcycles: KTM EXC-F (250, 350, 450, 500), KTM XC-W (150, 250, 300), KTM XCF-W (350, 500). Retail: $2,249.00 USD. www.wp-suspension.com.
THE RIGHT TOOLS Overloading Your Tool Pack? The MP Tool Will Help You Leave The Bulk Behind
MP T ool M etric
Part No. 08-0161
8 mm bolts 10 mm bolts 12 mm bolts 14 mm bolts 7/16” bolts #2 Phillips #3 Phllips 7/32” Straight Slot 3/16” Straight Slot 5 mm Hex 6 mm Hex 3/8” Drive 1/4” Drive
@motionpro
@motionprofans
@motionpro84
Loaded with some of the most common sizes you’ll need
CAN BE USED ON
Includes tough nylon carrying case with a zippered closure
Tool body features a bottle opener
Find your local dealer at MOTIONPRO.COM
FOR EPIC ADVENTURES
THE NEW TIGER 1200 DESERT EDITION Inspired by the epic adventures taken by Tiger 1200 riders across some of the most inhospitable and challenging terrain in the world, the new Tiger 1200 Desert Edition builds on the big Tiger’s well-appointed versatility and is designed for maximum capability, and even greater value for money. This powerful motorcycle delivers 141 peak horsepower and 90 LB-FT peak torque, and is supported by fully-integrated ride enhancing technology and unique high-speciďŹ cation equipment, which includes features previously only available as standard on top-spec Tigers, including a lighter weight premium Arrow silencer and, for clutchless gear changes and an even smoother ride, Triumph Shift Assist. Find out more, visit triumphmotorcycles.com
KA-BAR Forged Wrench Knife Anyone that has spent any time turning wrenches on motorcycles in their garage will recognize the design of this knife. Based on the forged adjustable wrenches we all own, this knife belongs in your garage which is why we had to add it to the Upshift store. We are light duty knife nerds and formed a crush on this knife instantly. Made by KA-BAR Knife Co. in the USA, the Forged Wrench Knife is a mid-sized fixed blade designed for versatility and functionality. The knife is made from a single piece of 425 high-carbon stainless steel and has a sturdy utilitarian design. The knife comes complete with a simple hard plastic sheath that has a really nice positive engagement on the retention. KA-BAR is best known for their high quality military, hunting, sporting, all-purpose utility, and outdoor survival knives since 1898. Now available at the Upshift Store for $50.00. www.upshiftonline.com/store.
DESIGNED TO GO THE DISTANCE. DRY NO MATTER WHAT
WOLFMANLUGGAGE.COM
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HTTP://AOMC.MX
EAGLE, ID
NEW GRAPHICS KITS, MENS & WOMENS TEES AND MORE!
GENERAl STORE U.S.A 2016 upshiftonline.com/store
WIDE OPEN
COLORADO
PHOTO: TIM BURKE
WIDE OPEN
NEW MEXICO
PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX
WIDE OPEN
WASHINGTON
PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
It’s never met a continent it couldn’t handle. Lighter and more powerful than ever, with a 1084cc engine, Cruise Control, and our available state-of-the-art 6-speed DCT. Select a new Adventure Sports ES model, and you’ll get a slew of additional features like tubeless tires and electronically controlled suspension, for the ultimate off-the-grid adventures.
The Honda Africa Twin powersports.honda.com ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDE AFTER CONSUMING DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK. OBEY THE LAW AND READ THE OWNER’S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. For rider training information or to locate a rider training course near you, call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 1-800-446-9227. Africa Twin® is a registered trademark of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. ©2020 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. (8/20)
Life is Better on a Honda
ACCESSORIZED EUROPEAN MODEL SHOWN WITH NON-OEM TIRES.
WIDE OPEN
CALIFORNIA
PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
BEPPEDIENA ADV
GRAVEL-T GRAVEL-T
GRAVEL-T is our range of 100% waterproof soft bags, designed for Adventure Touring and off-road use. The GRT709 Canyon bags are a pair of soft saddlebags that give the same functionality and volume of a set of hard aluminum cases, without the weight and bulk. They are easy to attach and remove, lockable and built to last, rugged enough to protect the side of your motorcycle from minor impacts. MOUNTING PLATES: the included mounting plates are made of high impact nylon, and they fit the majority of side case mounts available on the market. REMOVABLE INNER BAGS: 100% waterproof, we decided for the bright yellow fabric to make it easier to spot what you need, even in low light conditions. M.O.L.L.E. READY: plenty of webbing on the side and on the bottom, the bags also come with a kit of 10 M.O.L.L.E. compatible clips.
GIVIUSA.COM
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WYOMING
PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX
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UTAH
PHOTO: TIM BURKE
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IDAHO
PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
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COLORADO
PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX
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PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
R VE RO 5 SM
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5 DENSITY EPS + HIRPO HIGH IMPACT POLYMER PARAMETRIC SHELL OBLIQUE IMPACT PROTECTION + PATENTED VISOR RELEASE SYSTEM INTEGRATED COLLARBONE PROTECTION + LIGHTWEIGHT CONSTRUCTION ERS - EMERGENCY RELEASE SYSTEM + ULTRA-VENTILATED DESIGN HYDRATION COMPATIBILITY A L P INESTA RS . CO M/ S M5H ELMET
WIDE OPEN
UTAH
PHOTO: STEPHEN W. CLARK
WIDE OPEN
CALIFORNIA
PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX
WIDE OPEN
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PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX
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IDAHO
PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
FOX LEGION 2021
PANDEMIC ADVENTURES RIDING THE WESTERn UNITED STATES
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY TIM BURKE
25,000 miles later, I still can’t stop 5,000 totally unplanned miles. That’s how much distance has passed beneath the wheels of my motorcycle since the pandemic started shutting down the world to tourism. Man, oh, man…what a ride it’s been! When I flew home to the United States in mid-February to arrange the Pakistan, Russian, and Chinese visas, I didn’t even bring my helmet or boots with me. I had to go to TJ Maxx to buy extra socks and underwear because I left most of my clothes in Scotland. Now, here we are, entering October with passports that are as useless as we’ve ever seen, and millions of people are still out of work. In the July issue of Upshift when “The Pandemic Adventures” published, I thought to myself that, surely, my next article would be about finally getting back on the road, bagging borders on the way east - from Scotland to Vietnam. I mean…how could it not? There’s no way I would still be here, bouncing around trying to “kill time.” That wasn’t in the cards. It goes without saying that COVID19 threw a big ol’ wrench into everybody’s plans. Since complaining about things that are out of our control doesn’t do anybody any good, Natalia Plutowska and I decided to make the best of it and keep on keepin’ on. We weren’t going to stop adventuring…maskedup and socially-distant adventuring. Just as we decided to go full-time-nomad-mode within the US, my phone buzzed. A text message from Lukas Eddy of Klim. The timing was impeccable. “Hey, Tim. Do you and Nat want to join us for the Klim ADV Summit? It’s going to be a multi-day ride through the best roads that Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana have to offer. We’ll camp every night, and Mark will cook for us.” “Mark said he’ll cook for us, huh? Who else is going?”
“It’s going to be an awesome group. John (Summers) will lead the ride. Bill Whitacre and Jocelyn Snow will also join us. Mark will support the trip from his van.” Even though I hadn’t ridden with them or even had the chance to get to know them, I knew of Bill and Jocelyn. Bill lives, breathes, and sleeps adventure, whether it’s on a bike, a van, or a sled. He’s one of the main sponsors and proponents of the BDRs (Backcountry Discovery Routes) and has been to all corners of the globe to ride motorcycles. Jocelyn is well known in the ADV community as one of the best female motorcyclists in the world and has competed in the GS Trophy numerous times. At 5 foot nothing’ her talent on a big bike leaves tall people with no excuses! This crew of characters going on a multi-day moto-camping trip together was bound to be ridiculous in the best way possible. In a decorative manner that isn’t appropriate for public-publication, I explained that there was nothing more in life I wanted than to have Mark Kincart cook breakfast for us in the beautiful mountains of the Rockies. So, Idaho, it was. The first order of business was an absolutely-obligatory stop in Eagle, Idaho to see the team that has supported these travels since day 1: Upshift Online HQ. The place is stocked with ADV essentials and swag that keep the circus alive! As I sit here writing my twenty-something’ ish article for Upshift, I still can’t believe that this entire show is run by just three guys in an industrial, garage-style shop. Everything comes together here: stories and photos, from contributors around the world, pile in via email. The stories are sometimes disorganized, out of order, missing photos, and last-minute. Still, without fail, Upshift pushes out a magazine every month.
Customer orders come in for utility straps, T-Shirts, hats, and tool-rolls. Packages get sent out. The bike builds, the creative-design, the layouts for the mag, the stickers, the bike graphics-kits, and the swag… all of it designed here and shipped from here. After almost 4 years of partnership, I got the behind-the-scenes look at this operation. A couple days and a couple beers went by and Boise is a hard town to be bored in, but we were off to Klim HQ in Rigby, Idaho. Once the gang was together, Mark and Lukas provided a full tour of the first-class facility. From the somewhat secret (no photos allowed) R&D section, to the warranty-repair/seamstress shop, we got a look behind the scenes at what goes into developing this bullet-proof gear. Believe it or not, these tours are available to the public! A quick email, phone call, or Instagram Message will get you an answer from the Klim team who will help arrange the experience. It’s totally worth it! The game plan was to be on the road at 8am from the parking lot of Klim. Of course, Lukas has to make sure his hair is perfect, so we didn’t go kickstand-up until about 8:30. Backroads and National Forest logging trails would take us north, past the Teton National Park, all the way into Montana. It’s called “Big Sky Country” up here and for good reason. Horizon to horizon, the vistas stretch underneath blue skies. It’s not too different than Patagonia in these parts. Days would come and go…each one, better than the last, and with each one, the group grew closer.
We were somewhere in the mountains west of Salmon when we “lost” Jocelyn. As you do on a group ride, to avoid eating dust, it wasn’t uncommon for us to spread out - putting quite a bit of distance between each rider. At each major trail-change, the group would reconvene, eat jerky and chug water. 10 minutes went by…15 minutes…20 minutes—no sight of Jocelyn. I started to backtrack. The trail was made up of pretty sharp shale, so I thought that maybe she had gotten a flat. As I backtracked 5 miles or so, I started getting nervous. Jocelyn was one of the fastest and most aggressive riders in the group. There’s no way she fell back far enough and we didn’t notice, unless something was wrong. At about 7 miles, I come across a pissed-off looking Jocelyn. “What happened?! Are you ok?” “I’m ok! My phone got launched out of its holder and I have no idea where it is! I’ve been looking for 20 minutes!” Well, shit. I know that feeling… I would lose my head if it weren’t securely attached at the shoulders. We narrowed down the range of possibilities to about a 1 1/2 to 2 mile stretch. Pretty soon
the whole crew had arrived, and
the iPhone search committee was activated. One of the tricks that I’ve learned over the years relies on SENA Bluetooth devices. While it only works if your phone is “alive,” if you get within Bluetooth range, you’ll hear the device pair. That oddly cute SENA voice will announce “Phone connected!” in your helmet. And that’s exactly what happened. About 3/4 of a mile back, the phone paired. It was all hands on deck. About 15 feet down the side of an embankment, the phone was resting underneath a blackberry bush. Crisis averted! Use all available assets!
ESSENTIAL ADV ST R E A M L I N E D U T I L I T Y LO N G D I S TA N C E C O M F O RT M I DW E I G H T A DV- R E A DY NEW CARLSBAD JAC K E T & PA N T KRIOS PRO HELMET
# K L IML IF E
K L I M .C O M
For me, the most special part of the trip happened under the uncontaminated night skies of Stanley, Idaho as a massive chunk of ice hurtled through the universe over our heads. A once in a 6,766-year experience, you may better know it as Comet Neowise. The comet could be seen with the naked eye as a blurry streak. Once my camera was set up on its tripod, though, the brilliance of outer space became apparent. Like all good things, the journey was coming to an end. Klim put together an absolutely incredible 4-day event and what was coolest was that it was done without the use of single-use plastics. There was one more unplanned pandemic-induced surprise in store for us before leaving Rigby. The Honda Motorcycle Corporation had an all-black 2018 Honda Africa Twin DCT on loan to Klim, and it was up for sale. It was an opportunity that we had to pounce on! Natalia, having spent almost 15,000 miles on the back of my bike, was quickly running out of patience as a passenger! This was a girl who rode her own bike through Africa, top to bottom, and longed for her own machine just as anyone would if a pandemic forced us to abandon our “other” bike overseas! Just like that, this 2-person/1-bike adventure became a 2-person/2-bike adventure! Like any motorcycle that will be utilized full-time, it required protection and customization. I quickly contacted companies whose products I truly believe in to outfit the new rig. We had 5 days to kill before the products would arrive at Upshift, so instead of the direct, 4-hour ride back to Boise, we turned it into a 5-day ride via Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks. I never really was good at going from Point A to B in an efficient manner. The National Park system in the US is one of the things I’m always happy to point towards, no matter where I am in the world. I’m not going to sit here and pretend like anything less than 99% of the happenings in the US right now aren’t facepalm-worthy, but, damn, did we do something smart back in 1916 by protecting these lands.
I trust the Federal Government about as much as I trust sushi from a gas station, and I don’t like giving my money to the Feds, but the USNPS is the one agency I have no issue forking it over to. $80 a year gets you unlimited access to all of them. It’s actually the one membership I refuse to let lapse. I don’t care which side of the political aisle you stand on: The protection of the National Park System in the US deserves your support. We spent a week camping in and exploring Teton, Yellowstone, and Glacier Parks before returning to Upshift HQ. As the new parts slowly trickled in, we slowly bolted them on, and man did the bike come out sharp! With the advice from the crew at Upshift, who raved about the quality, we elected to go with Outback Motortek crash bars, luggage racks, and bash plate. The install on the crash bars is far from “quick” or easy, but it’s arguably the most well-designed and bullet-proof design out there. With the amount of off-roading (and crashing) that we do, in all weather conditions, there was, in my opinion, no other luggage option than MoskoMoto soft panniers. We went with the 35L Backcountry Panniers, a 30L duffle, and the Nomad Tank bag. We chose a slip-on exhaust by Yoshimura to bring out the already-throaty sound of the AT. The pipe also provides a noticeable boost in throttle response off the line. I was having great luck in all conditions with my Dunlop TrailMax Missions, so we mounted a set of those as the AT’s new sneakers. Some of the minor mods included DoubleTake mirrors, Flexx bars by Fasst Company, Acerbis handguards, and fuse block mounted under the seat.
With what was now one of the baddest looking ATs (and my 90,000-mile beater-bike with 65 countries under its belt), we hit the road. We were bound for Mexico via the most inefficient route possible. Two days after saying goodbye to the Upshift crew, we entered Colorado. Hidden hot springs, towering peaks, and more roads than can possibly be explored in an entire lifetime, Colorado is heaven on earth for any motorcyclist on literally any type of bike. We weaved and wandered our way through the state, bagging passes and climbing into the heavens. From the Front Range to Aspen, we covered as much distance on dirt as we did on pavement. It’s easy to do here. Eventually, we wound up in one of my favorite US cities - still unspoiled from the crowds that plague the I-70 corridor - Durango. We spent a week in the city with one of my best friends before heading to the blistering heat of Moab. Eventually, our paths crossed with David Goldman (@thedavidgoldmanphoto), who is working on his epic “Motorcycle Portraits” series. With time ticking away on Natalia’s 6-month visa, we were hauling ass and burning gas to get to the border on time. No trip through the southwest is complete without taking in the views of the Grand Canyon, Zion National Park, and the plateaus of Arizona. Mexico is on the horizon and so close that I can almost smell the tacos. Stay tuned for adventures in Baja!
TUNE IN: OCTOBER 22nd – 5 to 7pm Pacific YouTube.com/RideBDR
Join us for the 10-Year Anniversary Celebration of Backcountry Discovery Routes. We’ll be broadcasting live on YouTube from our Seattle studio and taking you for an entertaining walk down BDR memory lane. Don’t miss this action-packed presentation and the opportunity to help BDR raise money for the next 10,000 miles of adventure for the ADV community to enjoy!
Expect an epic evening jam-packed with: • Live appearances from BDR founders, board members, friends and benefactors • Back stories from the expeditions you won’t want to miss • Never-seen-before bloopers from the video vault • Previews of our 2021 film: BDR – A 10 Year Retrospective • Fundraising opportunities throughout the event If we reach our fundraising goal, ADV celebrity, Jocelin Snow, will perform her BDR Rap – Live!
For details, visit
RideBDR.com/LegendaryNight © 2020 Backcountry Discovery Routes. All rights reserved. Backcountry Discovery Routes and BDR are registered trademarks. Backcountry Discovery Routes is a 501c(3) non-profit organization.
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By Olivier de Vaulx
The state of Colorado, famous within the ADV community for its Rocky Mountains and high elevation terrain, was the next stop on our Continental Divide test ride. After having had so much fun in New Mexico (see Upshift issue #49), we knew that our Tenere 700s would be up to the challenge. Still, we didn’t expect the number of adventures the colorful state had reserved for us.
Learning Curve It all started peacefully. After Chama’s little town, the winding paved road climbed effortlessly to our first pass, offering magnificent views and encounters with cowboys crossing the highway on proud horses. Fun start! Since the Continental Divide line follows the Rocky Mountain ridge, the first half of our Colorado ride led us through passes, usually over the 12,000 ft mark. The elevation by itself doesn’t tell the whole story, though, and we realized that each pass had its own personality. Starting with Stunner Pass, probably the easiest one on dirt, we rode up to 12,000 ft, taking our time to enjoy some great vista points and admire the area’s stunning red summits. At the top, we had the option of following the large fire road we already knew down to the valley or to explore a rough double track. Using the argument that maybe our future customers might like the more challenging ride, but probably being selfishly drawn to explore this promising new way down, we gave it a try. The trail that started as a fun double track for ATVs, offering breathless views of the Rockies, quickly became pretty technical, to say the least. We had steep walls to descend, small gaps to jump, and rivers to cross, while thousands of rolling rocks were trying to destroy our balance. It was definitely a workout! On the bright side, it was the perfect opportunity to see how good the Tenere was in these tricky conditions. This notwithstanding, we had to remember that we were primarily here to scout a route, not to look for extremes. After a couple of mistakes where the soft bags, crash bars, and the Leatt protections protected both the bikes and the riders, we decided to remove this option from our GPS track. Better safe than sorry! Lesson learned, we skipped the single tracks on the following days and stayed on dirt roads, rough enough to provide plenty of opportunities to prove one’s skills without looking specifically for trouble.
Get ting High Arriving at the OHV-friendly town of Lake City, we couldn’t resist trying the Alpine loop. It’s not exactly on the Continental Divide. Still, it’s such an iconic place that we really wanted to include it as an option on our tour. Early in the morning, the Jeeps and the tourists were nowhere to be seen and the weather was perfect, with no trace of the thunderstorms, which too often ruin the afternoons. The climb to Cinnamon Pass, at 12,640 ft, was an easy but physical ride, with hard-packed dirt covered with thousands of small rocks. Even with their comfortable suspension, the Tenere 700s bounced nonstop, the vibrations relentlessly hitting the riders. A snack halt at the old ghost town of Animas Fork was welcomed before climbing Engineer Pass. Going up to 13,000 feet, this iconic pass is genuinely something on its own. The climb went straight into the sky, with huge drops on the side and an unobstructed view of the near summits. At the top, the surreal panorama left us speechless while we tried to soak-up this 360° view over the Rockies: it was close to what we could see from a small plane!
We’re pretty sure that Engineer Pass is just one of the very few locations on the planet where you can enjoy such a view, at such a high elevation, with your motorcycle. Other passes like Cottonwood are not as much fun since the dirt road has been paved. Still, Hagerman Pass was another milestone in our exploration of Colorado. The path to the summit was indeed brutal, with giant boulders, sharp rocks, and deep 4WD-dug ruts transforming the dirt road into some sort of extreme enduro stage. The nimble Tenere 700s and their super-linear engine were a big help on this technical ride. At the same time, the Mission tires kept surprising us with their resistance in these abrasive conditions. What could have been a nightmare on bigger bikes was a challenging but fun climb, with the easy-going twins being ridden like small dual-sport bikes. Changing lines on a dime to avoid any loss of traction, we managed to reach the sign indicating the Continental Divide at 11,925 feet with no problem. The descent was not as difficult, even if a large river crossing made us successfully put the unsinkable Tenere to the test.
Colorful Backcountry Luckily, Colorado is not only about rough trails in the Rockies. We enjoyed a ton of fun double tracks from Buena Vista, starting in an OHV area where we could hit berms and jump with our Dakar-like bikes. From there on, and up to Steamboat Springs, our road led us through a succession of picturesque backcountry sceneries. Going through red canyons, following large rivers, and crossing graphically impressive birch forests, we frequently switched from gravel roads to single tracks, never having the same kind of riding for more than one hour straight. River crossings were plenty but never stopped our progression. We kept playing with the bikes, keeping a fast pace through the woods, swallowing roots and avoiding ruts at the last minute. Riding our ADV bikes in these conditions made us feel younger. The smile under our helmet was probably as big as Colorado itself! With this kind of fun riding being quickly tiring, stops at remote villages like Pitkin are appreciated like arrivals in an oasis: Cold drinks, ice cream, authentic and friendly encounters, that’s what backcountry moto travels are made for! The bigger cities were as friendly as these tiny hamlets: We enjoyed talking with firemen about the best trails in the area, borrowed some DOT-4 from a nice ATV store owner, and had dinner in fine restaurants in animated and welcoming downtowns. What more can you ask for? After the emptiness of New-Mexico, this was a much-appreciated change, and we made the most of it.
A unique playground With one of the largest color palettes you can dream of, Colorado is a treat for the eyes, but also a hell of a ride. Tough but rewarding in the mountains, fun but still physical in the forests and plains, the state has everything you need to truly enjoy your adventure bike. Such a playground is the perfect fit for the Tenere 700, which exceeded all our expectations. Confident that the route we recorded on our GPS was a perfect balance of everything that Colorado has to offer, we made ourselves ready to follow the Continental Divide further North. Stay tuned to hear about our next adventures in Wyoming!
Moto Trails USA provides adventure tours exclusively on Tenere 700s. The all-inclusive trips have been tested in real conditions with the Tenere 700 and include a 4WD support truck, a van to carry the luggage, and support riders. You just have to show up and enjoy the ride! You can book tours or contact them for more information via their website below.
www.mototrailsusa.com
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POWERED BY CURIOSITY. BUILT FOR THE PLACES IT CAN TAKE YOU. IN A FULLY CONNECTED WORLD, SOMETIMES IT’S BEST TO GO THE OTHER WAY. Impress yourself and others with styling inspired by the legendary DR-Z800 Dakar Rally bike & DR-Big. Delight in unmistakable V-twin power with endless low-end torque. Ride with confidence across challenging terrain with Advanced Traction Control, Drive Mode Selector, and a new electronic Ride-by-Wire throttle system that delivers smooth, precise engine response. With so many adventures ahead, it’s time to pull the plug and head out.
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EXPERIENCE THE V-STROM AT SUZUKICYCLES.COM Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2020 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.
TECH
BY CHAD DE ALVA
COOLANT TECHNOLOGY In issue 45 of Upshift Online (May 2020) I wrote an article on motorcycle maintenance where I recommended replacing your bike’s coolant. I am sure that a number of folks who read that article had a reaction to the effect of “If it isn’t broken, why fix it?” So in this piece, I wanted to take a deeper dive in order to explain what exactly coolant is, how it works, and how to get the most out of it. In our modern world where anyone can post anything to the internet, I want to make it clear that all of the information presented in this article was provided from leaders at several popular motorcycle-specific coolant manufacturers. Now, with our sources cited, let’s get into all things coolant. Coolant is a product that is designed to provide thermal protection to your motor by pulling heat from your motor and transferring it to the atmosphere through your bike’s radiators. The heat your motor makes can only be effectively transferred while the coolant is in a liquid state of matter, so a good coolant must resist boiling into a gas or freezing into a solid. Water is the workhorse ingredient of coolant, but water likes to freeze at 32 degrees Fahrenheit, and boil at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (at one atmosphere of pressure), so other chemicals need to be mixed with water to expand the temperature range in which the coolant stays in liquid form.
These other chemicals also affect the water’s ability to conduct heat, which directly impacts how well the coolant can pull heat from your motor. By using ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, a secret sauce of other additives, and ultra-pure water, coolant manufacturers strive to produce a product that will stay in liquid form, pull as much heat as possible from your motor, and conduct that heat to the bikes radiators as efficiently as possible. Companies that make a quality motorcycle-specific coolant approach their formulation differently. Motorex makes Coolant M3.0, which is an ethylene glycol coolant that is developed in partnership with KTM. M 3.0 is what orange bikes come filled with from the factory, and KTM builds their service schedule around Motorex products. Maxima makes a couple of coolant products: Coolanol, which is an ethylene glycol-based coolant, and Cool-Aide, which is a glycol-free coolant that is designed to work in racing applications where freeze protection is not required. Engine Ice is yet another quality coolant that uses propylene glycol, which gives Engine Ice a few unique properties. Propylene glycol is less toxic than ethylene glycol, but it’s still important to handle and dispose of Engine Ice and all coolants properly. It’s also important to check with any tracks or race sanctioning bodies for approved coolants – many places do not allow glycol-based coolants. Although glycol is only one ingredient in the coolant formulation, other additives and even the purity of water used all impact how well a given coolant works. While the additive packages that coolant manufacturers use are top secret, all of the coolant manufacturers I spoke with made mention of using very pure water in their formulations. Even water that’s been purified by reverse osmosis can still have impurities like iron, lime, calcium, chlorine, and fluoride, that can all have
COOLANT TECHNOLOGY adverse impacts on a cooling system. So coolant manufacturers use de-ionized water to keep these unwanted minerals and chemicals out of their coolants. This is also the reason that all of these coolant companies sell ready to use coolant which is pre-mixed with this de-ionized water at the factory – it makes the products easy to use (no mixing at home), and helps ensure performance. Using tap water, bottled water, or water from your hydration reservoir to top off a bike that’s boiled over will introduce impurities to your cooling system which can lead to all kinds of problems down the road. Adding water to pre-mixed coolant will also dilute the glycol and additives present in the system, which can further impact cooling system performance. That being said, if you have to add water in the field to get home, by all means do it – just know that the best course of action is going to be a full cooling system flush to make sure you get all of the unwanted impurities out. If you have to add water to your bike in the field, it’s probably a good call to figure out why your bike overheated in the first place. Are you riding in extreme conditions, like a super muddy track where you’ve completely blocked off airflow to your radiators with mud? Do you need to add a fan, adjust your fueling, or do you have some other issue impacting your cooling system’s performance? Using quality motorcycle-specific coolant also matters. Yeah, you can buy a gallon of big box store coolant for the price of one liter of quality motorcycle coolant, but you are rolling the dice just to save a few bucks. Modern motorcycles are high performance machines that are exhaustively engineered – their cooling systems only have a liter and change worth of capacity, so every drop of coolant counts. The coolant you can find at your local big box store is most likely formulated to work in more generic applications like a John Deere tractor or an old cast iron V8. Both of which are much lower performance motors with significantly higher capacity (gallons, not liters) cooling systems where every drop isn’t as critical. Using the cheap stuff may work, but if it leads to corrosion, clogging some part of your cooling system, or worse case, cooking your motor, was it worth it to save ten bucks?
To get the best possible results out of a quality motorcycle coolant, here are a few practices to follow: Change your coolant annually, more frequently if you are racing or regularly riding in extreme conditions. Nothing lasts forever, and just like fork oil and engine oil wear out, so too does your coolant. When you go to replace your coolant, pay attention to what is coming out the drain – if anything besides coolant comes out (sediment, sludge, etc.), further cleaning and/or flushing is required. If you are switching from an ethylene coolant to a propylene coolant – follow the directions. You need to get all the old coolant out for best results. If you are not sure of what flavor of coolant to use, pick a premixed coolant from a quality manufacturer – I’ve enjoyed trouble free performance out of all the products mentioned in this article. If your bike is overheating regularly, you may have other issues that could be impacting your bike’s ability to cool itself. Remember, your bike is a system, and a change in one area could have a negative impact in another area. Trading the stock exhaust for a free-flowing race exhaust and fancy intake without changing your fueling could be causing much higher combustion temps, which could be overwhelming the design limits of your factory cooling system. On the other side of the coin, if you’ve smashed and straightened your radiators countless times, you may have reduced how well coolant can flow through your bike’s radiators, which means reduced cooling performance. Radiators are designed to work with constant airflow, so if you’re doing a ton of soft enduro where you’re just riding in the rocks and not covering much ground, you may overheat without a fan to bring additional airflow to your radiators. So before you blame a coolant for failing to perform, make sure that you’re giving it a fair shot with a bike that doesn’t have other underlying issues.
COOLANT TECHNOLOGY Motorcycles are amazing machines, and the performance that you can purchase off the dealer’s floor in perfectly stock form is very impressive. Yet to be able to enjoy that level of performance ride after ride, year after year, you have to take care of your bike. That means proactively replacing fluids like coolant. For some reason, coolant is one of those things where riders will just leave it until it fails, and then get angry at their bike for letting them down when it overheats. We are religious (hopefully) about changing our engine oil on the specified interval, so why doesn’t everyone do the same with coolant? “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” does not apply to motorcycles. If it’s been a year or more since you changed your coolant, add some to your shopping cart next time you place a parts order. As long as your cooling system is in good health, literally all you need to do is swap your old coolant out with one of the quality brands that are mentioned here. Preventative maintenance goes a long way to keep your bike happy, and if you take care of your bike and keep it happy, it will continue to perform, which will make you happy. Now, go change your coolant and get out and ride!
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WHAT A RIDE BY TOM AND CAROLINE - www.motomorgana.com
We just couldn’t stand the idea of yet another morning with cold, wet riding gear and soggy boots, so we didn’t pitch the tent this time. Instead, we decided to book a dodgy room in the only hotel in Outat El Hadj, a small town in the north of Morocco where life seemed to be limited to the activity around the petrol station. Outside it was pouring rain… again. The stale, moldy smell was more than noticeable in our room. The condition of the sanitary installations made us long desperately for the great wide open. But at least we were dry and warm for the night. Was this really the trip we had been dreaming of for so long? In the morning, sunlight hit our faces through the dirty windows. Sunlight? It seemed ages ago since we last saw that. Instantly, a smile appeared on our face. For the very first time since we left Belgium 3 weeks earlier, the sky was clear blue. Dry weather, at last! We felt excited. It was one of those magical moments where you know it’s going to work out just fine. It’s going to be great! After every low, there’s that inevitable high. And what a high that was. It lasted all the way to South Africa. We had visited Morocco quite a few times before to ride the many tracks and play in the massive sandbox that is the Sahara desert. This time we followed an old route of the original Dakar Rally leading to the Western Sahara and Mauritania- from sandy to sandier, to sandiest. We passed Dakar in Senegal and headed to the heart of West Africa: Mali and Burkina Faso. Despite the grinding poverty and the persistent security risks in this region, we saw nothing but smiling faces and incredibly friendly people. A daily check with the locals allowed us to ride through the plain red zones. Without a single western soul around, we had the opportunity to work our way east to the historical city of Djenné and Pays des Dogons, where we were submerged in the real Malian culture, away from any form of organized tourist activity. As we crossed the border with Burkina, soldiers held us at gunpoint from behind a heap of sandbags for a full 15 minutes because they swore not a single western traveler would ever follow this route. They calmed down as soon as they realized we actually were real travelers and we finally ended up joking and laughing as they offered to trade their Chinese mopeds for our Huskies.
Through densely populated Nigeria, we continued our trip to the challenging tracks of Central Africa. Rain forest, humidity, and blistering heat replaced the arid landscapes of West Africa. It was the peak of the rainy season, meaning extreme downpours overnight and full sunshine and sticky, slippery mud during the day. But it was actually a lot of fun, and nothing seemed to stop the Huskies. We even crossed the infamous Congos pretty much hassle-free, enjoying the challenging rides day after day. Angola took us from the rainforest to the endless beaches along the Atlantic and then further down to the amazing Namibe desert. We started camping again and bumped into quite a few South Africans in well-equipped trucks enjoying their little piece of adventure. From there, we headed east to the massive Victoria Falls and the amazing wildlife of Zambia, then straight to Malawi, the number one African playground for off-roaders. Following Mozambique’s coastline, we worked our way down to the southernmost point of the black continent and finally to Cape Town, South Africa. After 10 months and 23,000 miles of mainly off-road riding through 26 countries, we ticked the box of the African stretch off our RTW trip. Was it worth it? Hell yeah! Africa is just a-m-a-z-i-n-g!
Directions from the locals? Reconsider! As we were running out of fuel in a remote Mauritanian fisherman’s village, this one guy assured us the next village where we could buy fuel was 20, maybe 20.5 miles away along the beach. Now that was a pretty darn accurate piece of information, so we thought. Only to finally reach the village on our last drops of petrol after exactly 49 miles. Despite the many good intentions of the locals, their advice is often to be taken with a grain of salt. The truth is that in most small villages, people only know how to get to a bigger town using one of the few paved roads. They might know the surrounding villages, but all information about places beyond that is highly unreliable. The caveat is that in many African cultures, it’s considered impolite to say you just don’t know. That means, in most cases, locals are happy to tell you no matter what, as long as they have been polite.
Street food… or not North and West Africa is notorious for its delicious, fresh, and cheap street food. Dining with the cheerful mama’s at the side of the road was an adventure on its own and a way for us to connect with the locals. Once past the Congos, food is pretty much westernized, and supermarkets are no longer exceptional. But rural areas in Central Africa were somewhat different, to say the least. The local diet often consisted of rather ‘exotic’ specialties. Rat, mice on a stick, crawling thick larvae or worse: monkey! Every night we awe faced the challenge to find a place that didn’t serve monkey. We saw them lying on the market, freshly slaughtered. With fingers and toes and actual faces with eyes in the front… so human! It turned our stomach. And no way were they cutting my tender chicken on a separate board in their grubby little salmonella kitchens, oh no! We didn’t mind withered vegetables or fish that were on the edge of going bad, but monkey on the menu was an absolute show stopper.
A hammer and a welder Don’t be mistaken. African mechanics excel in creativity to fix stuff that most of us would consider way beyond repair. Cars that would definitely be compressed into a metal cube in some junkyard in the US or Europe are to be found everywhere in the streets throughout West and Central Africa. But the reality is that finding spares for non-Chinese motorbikes somewhere between Morocco in the north and Namibia in the south is just impossible, and tools commonly found in repair shops are often limited to a hammer and a welder. A German biker we met in Mauritania even got his chain welded, imagine! The mechanic clearly missed the point that chains should move and be flexible in order to work properly. Needless to say, it only lasted a mere 50 meters before it snapped again. We do carry a good selection of spare parts and lightweight tools on the bikes. In our opinion, however, riding the Huskies with the weight of spare tires on the back, as you often see, just spoils the fun. Rather than riding some oriental knock off tire 3 sizes off, we had tires shipped out of Europe to bigger international airports. DHL is your best friend in Africa.
Malaria and broken bones Let’s face it: when you go riding off-road for such a long distance, chances are high that things will go wrong at some point in time. Caroline suffered bruised ribs and a severe concussion in Mauritania. It meant we celebrated Christmas in a country that’s hardly ever heard of Christmas. Having chewy camel meat and soggy fries in a place where people get jailed for drinking alcohol… it wasn’t exactly what we had in mind. I broke my foot in Mali because of my own dumb fault – read speeding at 65mph and jumping a series of large potholes on a ruined Malian gravel road. But bones heal just as fast in Africa as they do in the western world, and stiff off-road boots work probably better than any cast you can get there. A daily diet of pain killers and an overdose of travel fun more than compensate for the pain. And yes, you inevitably will get sick. We suffered malaria and salmonella multiple times. In Nigeria, not really the most appealing of holiday destinations, to say the least, in some godforsaken hole without power nor running water, both illnesses struck me at the same time. Admittedly I’d had better days. But three injections from an elderly nurse, a daily elephant dose of pills, and some witchcraft advice from the local doctor dressed in a basketball outfit and flip-flops, got us back on our feet within a few days—all that for the huge amount of 16 USD.
Look into my eyes, man. Africa isn’t exactly known as a continent where everything is done by the book. Immigration officers making travelers pay for that free stamp in their passport? It is no exception. A receipt, sir? Oh no, that is never available. That’s when you know something isn’t quite right. “Hey man, I can see in your eyes that you can see in my eyes that I know this is just utter BS.” It took that Senegal border official a few seconds to even realize what exactly I was trying to say. Judging by the look on his face, I still think he didn’t really get it. But all of a sudden, the stamp was free, and off we went. While others were complaining about rip-off attempts, we started to see the fun of the whole border crossing process. We snatched away passports, refused to step away from the counter, or just simply waited it out for a few hours. When entering Mozambique, we managed to make that border insurance broker cry like a baby after threatening I would go tell his superior he was ripping off foreigners. No, we stood our ground and crossed Africa without bribing.
Without support vehicle… now how about that? Some people freak out by the mere thought of the safety situation in Africa. We honestly don’t know what all the fuss is about as we traveled the whole continent with literally zero security issues. Sure we didn’t wave 100 dollars in the middle of the market place, nor did we show off our newest cell phone. That’s called common sense. In our experience, 99.9% of all Africans are just really nice, laid back people with a great sense of humor. However, we did meet an Alaskan couple on KLR 650’s while I was recovering from my broken foot in Mali. They kept on bragging about how dangerous it all was. “You know what? We cross Africa without a support vehicle, now how about that?” Support vehicle? Who needs a support vehicle? They had nothing but blurry photos taken from their helmet camera because they were too afraid to stop and talk to the locals. Everyone at the border carrying a gun was a dangerous terrorist, and they heard stories about child sex traffickers and poachers everywhere. I am still unsure where their information came from, and it sure didn’t really come as a surprise that after 3 months in Africa, they were back in Alaska. Apparently Africa was waaaaaaay too stressful! Just chill out, guys. Everything will be fine…
Top 5 African countries we traveled 1. Angola I used to work in Angola back in 1999 during the civil war and only ever knew it as a completely destroyed country with heavily armed soldiers on every corner of the street. The contrast with the actual situation there couldn’t have been any bigger. Friendly people, good food, lots of nice tracks, and unbelievable scenery that often makes for amazing wild camping spots. Rain forest, seaside, desert, and an amazingly vivid capital, this Portuguese speaking country has it all. Not the cheapest of African places but so worth the ride.
2. Mali Mali, that is long winding gravel roads along with small villages, often not more than a few straw huts where children have never seen a foreign biker before. The faces of the cheerful kids approaching us to have a look at the bikes and to touch our white skin, just priceless! Add to that the great street food and amazing music scene, and you know this is going to be a hit. Mali used to be the cultural and touristic hotspot of West Africa before terrorist attacks and ebola ruined the entire tourist sector, but there are so many places to explore in relatively safe areas as long as you listen to the advice of the locals.
3. South Africa This is, without a doubt, the most developed country on the black continent. South Africa has everything you’ll find in western countries. That is ATM’s, repair shops, restaurants that don’t serve monkey and supermarkets, to name just a few of the things we missed in certain other parts of Africa. But it also has some of the nicest rides along endless gravel roads, through amazing national parks with jaw-dropping sceneries. The ride to “The Hell” was one of the most memorable and definitely far from hellish. This country is vast and sparsely populated, but the hospitality of the locals is legendary. Every so often, they took us in and offered us food and a bed with an actual mattress and fluffy pillows. After all those months without luxury, we didn’t refuse for sure.
4. Malawi A tiny country that is known as one of the poorest in Africa. Poor means no money to maintain and repair roads, which means plenty of off-road adrenaline. We found ourselves riding narrow, steep single tracks or destroyed roads full of boulders. We were surrounded by nothing but thick 7-foot high grass for miles and miles to finally end up in a remote village where they looked at us as if we were aliens. Sweating your arse off on the track and enjoying a cold beer with a view over Lake Malawi in the evening, surrounded by the friendliest and most hospitable people ever...we can only recommend it!
5. Morocco Our all-time favorite of northern Africa still remains Morocco. More gravel and sand roads than you can throw a stick at and loads of breathtaking sceneries. This off-road nirvana is the port to the Sahara, where true desert freaks can have the time of their life. It is known for its vivid off-road community in a traditional setting and is home to the last decent motorbike repair shops that actually have high-quality tools before heading further south. If you ride in remote areas, chances are high you’ll end up in a village where they bake this delicious flatbread with those slightly burnt edges in one of their brick wood ovens. After a long riding day, it doesn’t get any better than this.
About Us: Tom and Caroline have been traveling Africa, South, and North America on their Husqvarna 701 Enduros. They are now home in Belgium, waiting until the Corona crisis allows for easy border crossing before heading East to Asia, Australia, and back to Africa. This is the story about the first section of their amazing round the world adventure. www.motomorgana.com
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This Is What Makes The 2020 CRF1100 So Special Honda fuses the sport and adventure-touring segment with its latest Africa Twin. Honda’s modern Africa Twin adventure bike has been the more-friendly alternative to hardcore ADV rigs from Europe. For 2020 however, Big Red infuses added sport-oriented performance with class-leading electronics. This equals an easier handling motorcycle for most of us that aren’t vying for weekend podiums. Affordability With a base price of $14,399, you get a lot of bike for the dollar with the 2020 Africa Twin. Whether distance touring is your thing, work-week commuting, or flinging roost out on the trail, the CRF1100 can do it all. Step up to the Adventure Sport ES DCT model ($17,999) and you get idiot-proof suspension adjustment (well, kind of… more on that later), one of the brightest sets of cornering headlamps fitted on a new bike, and Honda’s fantastic Dual-Clutch Transmission that eliminates traditional shifting and clutch work. Creature Comforts The Africa Twin is one of the more comfortable adventure bikes for road riding. A deep dish seat and wide handlebar—with plenty of rearward sweep make for an ADV bike well-suited for logging serious mileage. The footpegs are of adequate size and include removable rubber inserts that dampen engine vibration. Cruise control and taller adjustable windscreen (Adventure Sport), not to mention Honda’s fast-shifting DCT and all-new Showa electric suspension further elevate comfort and performance during hard charge rides, especially on pavement. Gadgets can be powered by a USB charging port and the Adventure Sport adds a 12volt power port.
Engine Honda’s 2016-spec 998cc parallel-twin was good, but not memorable. For 2020, engineers increased piston stroke boosting engine displacement to 1,084cc. Although it’s only 86cc extra, the difference behind the handlebar is night and day. The new AT offers 450 moto bike-like bark off idle. The Africa Twin now happily powers wheelies in first gear off the line. It also boasts a more throaty sound that makes twisting the throttle more entertaining. Smooth, playful with plenty of grunt, Honda’s twin is well-suited to ADV life. This is the engine Honda should have offered from the get-go. Engine power can be tuned based on rider preference or through the global riding modes (Tour, Urban, Gravel, and Off-Road). Additionally, two customizable ‘User’ modes allow for a customized setup. Step up to the Adventure Sport model and you get a 1.5-gallon larger capacity fuel tank (6.5-gallons). A generously sized aluminum skid plate helps protect the motor in the rough stuff. Electronics Honda’s lagged behind the competition in the electronics department for some time. That changes with the 2020 Africa Twin. Whether you’re new-ish to adventure riding, or a seasoned pro, the 2020 electronics package is a game changer for Big Red. The AT includes a tour de force including ABS, engine brake, traction, wheelie and adjustable engine power modes. These doo-dads aren’t new in the segment, but the precise function and masterful integration make Big Red’s version special. The CRF can go from mild to wild with a few pushes of the button, and the electronics help the rider flirt with the limits of his or her skill set, not to mention the terrain, more easily. The 2020 AT is more friendly to ride amongst virtually any caliber rider, on and off-road. ABS can be manually disabled, but to be fair its off-road programming is one of the best setups we’ve ridden lately.
A color touchscreen display keeps tabs on vehicle settings and is flanked by a more traditional-looking rectangular LCD. This allows riders to sync his or her phone with Apple CarPlay while still keeping tabs on speed and other pertinent information below. Features are accessed via a NASA-like switchgear on the left hand side. If you’re familiar with Honda’s Gold Wing luxury-sport-touring bike, then you’ll understand its operation. If not, be prepared to study the owner’s manual. While we appreciate the rich-feature set, menu navigation is clunky with an illogical layout. The engine power setting for example is counterintuitive with the least illuminated semi-circles equating to a higher power level. This is the exact opposite of other adjustable power-mode equipped Hondas like the 2017-2019 CBR1000RR. The display’s processing power could be faster and the start-up process is a tad lengthy. Transmission In standard configuration, the 2020 CRF is outfitted with a manual six-speed gearbox and cable-actuated clutch. It’s a great setup, but what really makes it special is the latest generation DCT. This gearbox eliminates the clutch and gear shift lever and replaces it with buttons on the switchgear. The rider can select each gear himself, or choose to let the machine make shifting decisions, automatically. Faster than ever, the transmission offers speedy gear exchanges. Shift programming is so accurate, you’ll think twice about ever riding a traditional motorcycle. Honda also offers a selectable ‘G’ switch, which boosts clutch engagement response. If it were up to us this setting would be fixed. There is a downside, however. The hardware adds 23 pounds pushing curb weight to 553 pounds (with fuel, ready to ride) in fully decked out trim. Serious off-roaders will likely do better with a manual transmission AT, but then again, hard core dirt riders will do better with an entirely different adventure-touring platform, as the Africa Twin continues to favor road performance.
Suspension If you’re a rider who racks up the odometer and rides over a variety of terrain, the electronic suspension is a must-have. With a few pushes of the button, damping can be as firm or as soft as desired, based on handling preference or terrain. The electronics also alter spring preload fore and aft. In its firmest setting, the Africa Twin provides road holding that is far more sporty than other 21/18-inch wheel equipped ADV bikes, especially with Bridgestone Battlax Adventurecross AX41 rubber. On the contrary, when it’s time to hit the dirt, the softer suspension settings help the tires dig into terrain enhancing grip sensation— especially over hardpack. Simply put, Honda’s electronic suspension is one of the best systems available today. In terms of outright value, Honda drives a hard bargain with its entire four-bike Africa Twin line. It’s a heck of a deal in base trim, and riders desiring premium features will value the up-spec Adventure Sport ES version. Add in the simplicity and ease-ofuse of the $800 DCT option and you’ve got a motorcycle that is simply untouchable in the class for ADV fans. Upshift Modifications Bridgestone Battlax Adventurecross AX41 tires mounted to Dubya built wheels using Excel rims and Talon hubs with prototype spacers. Yoshimura RS-12 slip-on muffler and fender eliminator kit. Doubletake mirrors.
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