Upshift Issue 57 - May 2021 by UPSHIFT

SKYLER HOWES GETS HIS FACTORY RIDE! May 2021

Issue 57

KISKA.COM Photo: R. Schedl

how sandstorms begin

It’s time to adventure even harder. The new KTM 890 ADVENTURE R is here – a true offroad travel specialist. With class-leading handling, rally-like agility, and boosted power and torque figures, you can be sure you’ll never eat dust, except in the sandstorm you create.

FIND OUT MORE AT WWW.KTM.COM Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective safety gear and ride in a responsible manner. The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost. European specification model shown for illustration purposes only.

ISSUE 57 May 2021

INSTA-ADV

SKYLER HOWES GETS HIS FACTORY RIDE!

Instagram Travelers

May 2021

Issue 57

y information: These drawings contain information y to Upshift. Any reproduction, orCover transmittal of this on without expressed written consent is prohibited by Simon Cudby se partial or complete of the sord marks is prohibited hable to the full extent of the law.

Design Chris Glaspell

LOGO SHEET

THE INSIDER

Ride Respectfully To Preserve Access

BIKES-GEAR

Photography Editor Simon Cudby

The Latest

Contributing Writers Adam Booth Randy Commans Chad de Alva Travis Gill Michnus Olivier Joe Terra Inna Thorn

BLACK RGB: R255 B255 G2550 CMYK: C40 M30 Y30 K100

PMS 021 WIDE OPEN RGB: R255 B80

CMYK: N80 Y100 Views Through The Lens

GOING FACTORY

Contributing Photographers Tim Burke Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Travis Gill Brian J. Nelson Michnus Olivier Miguel Santana Kevin Wing

Skyler Howes Gets His Ride

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CROATIA

The Jewel of the Adriatic

Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell

NEVADA 200

Business Development Brandon Glanville

37th Annual Trail Ride

Want to advertise with us? Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

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Alpinestars Tech 10 Supervented Boots Wolfman Luggage

Join us on Instagram at @ upshift_online Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online

HARLEY DAVIDSON

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Pan America Launch

THE COLOMBIA EXPERIENCE Part One

Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2021. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

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UPSHIFT PROJECT T7

A Tribute to the 1987 Ténéré 660

INSTA-ADV

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

ADVENTURE TRANSFORMED

THE BENCHMARK FOR MAXIMUM OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE. Versatile and agile, with a premium specification, the Tiger 900 Rally range delivers incredible off-road capability, with phenomenal power and performance, and a dominant adventure-focused stance for maximum off-road adventure riding and all-road comfort and style. The Tiger 900 Rally and higher specification Rally Pro both feature a lightweight adventure chassis, advanced technology and premium equipment, plus a high capacity 900cc triple engine, delivering impressive torque low down, with overall peak power at 94 HP. Find out more, visit TriumphMotorcycles.com

RIDE RESPECTFULLY

Y TO PRESERVE ACCESS By Inna Thorn, BDR Director of Operations Adventure riders in the US are fortunate to have access to vast public land for off-road recreation. We can enjoy miles of the most spectacular scenery and wondrous geology from the vantage point of our adventure motorcycle. We can camp in remote and picturesque places and feed off the energy and beauty of our land. However, this privilege comes with an inherent responsibility to protect our most valuable resource while accommodating other users on the lands we share. The U.S. Forest Service, BLM and other public land managers strive to find the right balance between caring for the land and serving the people who enjoy it. As adventure riders we must invest in the idea of environmental stewardship and keeping natural resources healthy and accessible. It is imperative that we do our part to minimize our impact on the land, appreciate that other users have the same right to enjoy the land, and ensure that residents in small communities we ride through feel respected. Ride Respectfully by following these tenets of ADV travel: Slow down when passing other trail users Stay on the right side of the trail Stay on trails, and don’t disturb or damage ground, vegetation, wildlife, or create erosion Respect private property, obey the signs and ride only where and when permitted Pack it in, pack it out - leave the outdoors better than you found it Avoid roosting or tearing up the trail unnecessarily When staging with your group, pull off to the right of the trail, and don’t stop or regroup near homes Minimize engine noise and dust, slow way down when in residential areas Don’t argue with locals Leave gates as found, whether open or closed Wave to people Part of the appeal of adventure riding is our ability to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of daily life and find that healing and restorative link between man and nature. Serious adventures test us as a rider and as a person. Adversity teaches humility and gives us a deeper appreciation for the experiences and opportunities we have to connect with the land, our deeper selves, and other people. Next time you go out riding, remember that YOU are the ambassador of our sport. Keep yourself and your bike safe, be courteous to other trail users, minimize your impact on the land, and always represent the ADV community in the best light!

New 2021 Scrambler 1200 XC, XE and Scrambler 1200 Steve McQueen Edition With all the Scrambler 1200 XC and XE’s category-dominating specification and style, incredible torque delivery and signature soundtrack, the new 2021 update delivers lower emissions whilst retaining all the thrilling performance, high power and torque that they are renowned for. Alongside the 2021 generation Scramblers comes a new beautiful and unique limited edition that celebrates the most famous movie star, stunt and motorcycle in history, with the Scrambler 1200 Steve McQueen Edition. The 2021 Scrambler 1200 XE and XC represent the latest generation of one of the most capable and unique motorcycles on the market, and one of Triumph’s highest specification models ever. A genuine, class-defining cross over of two motorcycle worlds, with the iconic style and character of a Triumph Modern Classic, combined with the capability and specification of a fullon adventure motorcycle.

Scrambler 1200 Steve McQueen Edition

Scrambler 1200 XE - Khaki Green

Updated for 2021 along with all of Triumph’s iconic modern classic line-up, the new Scrambler 1200 XC and XE features a Euro 5 engine evolution that maintains all of the Scrambler’s renowned power and torque delivery and delivers lower emissions. Additionally, the new generation update brings a revised exhaust system that delivers improved heat distribution. The Scrambler 1200 is powered by the latest evolution of Triumph’s characterful 1200cc high-power British twin. New for 2021, the engine update delivers lower emissions, exceeding Euro 5 requirements. With a low inertia crank and a high compression cylinder head, plus a dedicated Scrambler tune, specifically developed to give the perfect balance of power and torque delivery for both road and off-road riding, the result is incredible torque from low down right through the rev range.

Scrambler 1200 XE - Cobalt Blue

Peak torque hits 110Nm at just 4,500rpm, while peak power of 90PS arrives at 7,250 rpm. The distinctive Scrambler sound, produced by the 1200cc 8-valve parallel twin engine, is delivered by the twin high level exhaust system which has also been updated for Euro 5 compliance, with the added benefit of improved heat distribution. www.triumphmotorcycles.com Steve McQueen Edition features • Individually numbered limited edition with only 1,000 available worldwide • Unique Steve McQueen branding on the tank and handlebar clamp • Exclusive Competition Green custom paint scheme • New high specification with premium Scrambler accessories fitted as standard • Certificate of authenticity features the signatures of Triumph’s CEO, Nick Bloor and Chad McQueen

Scrambler 1200 XC - Sapphire Black

With the natural feel of the Human Motion® Hinge & the protection of the Full Coverage Impact Guards, the most comfortable knee brace on the planet will keep your adventure going for longer. ®

podactive.com | human motion

Klim Releases World’s First CE AAA-Rated Adventure Gear KLIM is excited to release the new Badlands Pro A3 Jacket and Pant, the world’s first CE AAA-rated GORE-TEX textile motorcycle garment. The Idaho-based company is proud to set a new standard for adventure motorcycle protection by creating a garment that beats the comfort compromises and drawbacks typically associated with highly protective AAA-rated gear. The coveted CE AAA rating, certified to standard EN 17092-2, has historically only been awarded to leather outerwear such as racing suits and select textile garments, which all come with significant heat, bulk and flexibility compromises by nature. It was an understanding that the materials and construction needed to receive this rating would be excessively bulky and hot, both in textile and leather form. For example, AAA-rated riding jeans are available, but they’re excessively heavy and hot, making them impractical for extended trips. The lowest CE rating for garments with abrasion protection and impact protection is the A rating. This is the easiest of the A-ratings to earn. The next highest is CE AA, which is often the target for apparel manufacturers to build their gear. For example, KLIM’s Touring and Adventure gear lines are full of CE AA-rated gear. This is highly sufficient for normal riding scenarios, price points and rider comfort levels to suit commuting, adventure riding, touring and other disciplines that end up riding pavement at high speed. However, the elusive AAA rating has remained possible but unrealistic for gear meant for adventure travel because of the expected associated comfort penalties. KLIM sought to challenge that. For more information go to www.klim.com Badlands Pro A3 Jacket Features • 3-Layer Gore-Tex pro shell • Guaranteed to keep you dry® • Vectran™ fiber fabric for superior abrasion & cut resistance • Custom-engineered variable-density superfabric® on shoulders, elbows & forearm • CE AAA rating certified to EN 17092-2 • Klim aero pro level 2 D3O® shoulders and elbows • D3O® viper pro back pad • 12 Total vents • 14 Total pockets + hydrapak compatible back compartment • Moisture-wicking odor-fighting mesh liner • Adjustable collar, hem, cuffs, forearms • MSRP $1,499.99 Badlands Pro A3 Pant Features • 3-Layer Gore-Tex pro shell • Guaranteed to keep you dry® • Vectran™ fiber fabric for superior abrasion & cut resistance • Custom-engineered variable-density superfabric® on knees • Heat-resistant leather inside knee panels for grip and protection • CE AAA rating certified to EN 17092-2 • Klim aero pro level 2 D30® hips, knees and tailbone (tailbone not CE rated) • 4 Total vents • 2 Zip thigh pockets • Moisture-wicking odor-fighting mesh liner • Adjustable waist, hems, knees • MSRP $899.99

Ténéré 700. The Next Horizon is yours. YamahaMotorsports.com Professional rider depicted on a closed course. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long sleeves, long pants, gloves and boots. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. ©2020 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved.

WORLD’S BEST

DUAL-SPORT RIDE Park City, Utah

August 22-26, 2021

The Legend’s Ride Ride with Grant Langston, Guy Cooper, and Destry Abbott - Private Bed and Bath - 30,000 SQ FT Private Lodge - Professional Chef - VIP Service

speedandsportadventures.com

ZIP UP. HEAD OUT.

- Professional Photography by Ken Faught and Mark Kariya - 9-Rider Limit - B/C-Level Ride

@speedandsportadventures

ZIP-R BAGS @ WOLFMANLUGGAGE.COM

B E A T

T H E

H E A T

EXPERIENCE THE V-STROM AT

SUZUKICYCLES.COM/ADVENTURE

Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2021 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.

STAY FULLY CONNECTED

Behind a big, bright LED headlight is a large, multifunction instrument panel that displays the information you want on a bright, LCD screen. The adjoining USB power port and mounting bar is ready for your favorite navigation or entertainment accessories.

GO ANYWHERE ADVENTURE PACKAGE

Choose the V-STROM 1050XT Adventure to take the gear you need and ride in comfort with Suzuki’s quick-release, aluminum pannier set, heated handgrips, and a set of LED fog lamps.

RIDE WITH COMFORT & EASE

Ride-by-Wire dual electronic throttle assemblies provide light, precise response for tight roads and trails while the Cruise Control system helps you make short work of long miles. Takeoffs from inclines are a breeze with the Hill Hold Control system.

SUZUKI’S INTELLIGENT RIDE SYSTEM

Tame any road or trail as you tailor the power delivery through the multi-mode Drive Mode Selector and Traction Control* systems, while tuning braking response with the two-level adjustable Motion Track Anti-lock Brake** system.

BIG V-TWIN POWER

The 90-degree, V-Twin engine has more peak power than ever before while maintaining its strong pull off the bottom and superb fuel economy allowing you to go the distance.

The Traction Control System is not a substitute for the rider’s throttle control. It cannot prevent loss of traction due to excessive speed when the rider enters a turn and/or applies the brakes. Neither can it prevent the front wheel from losing grip. **Depending on road surface conditions, such as wet, loose, or uneven roads, braking distance for an ABS-equipped vehicle may be longer than for a vehicle not equipped with ABS. ABS cannot prevent wheel skidding caused by braking while cornering. Please ride carefully and do not overly rely on ABS. Model shown with optional accessories. *

WIDE OPEN

UTAH

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

WIDE OPEN

PERU

PHOTO: MICHNUS OLIVIER

WIDE OPEN

CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: BRIAN J. NELSON

WIDE OPEN

CROATIA

PHOTO: TRAVIS GILL

WIDE OPEN

NEVADA

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

WIDE OPEN

COLORADO

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

WIDE OPEN

IDAHO

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

WIDE OPEN

IDAHO

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

ADV A/C E P I C A I R F LOW R OA D - R E A DY P R OT E C T I O N O F F- R OA D M O B I L I T Y B A JA S4 JAC K E T & PA N T F3 C A R B O N H E L M E T VIPER PRO GOGGLES B A JA S4 G LOV E S

# K L IML IF E

K L I M .C O M

WIDE OPEN

UTAH

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

WIDE OPEN

IDAHO

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

WIDE OPEN

NEVADA

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

WIDE OPEN

CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: KEVIN WING

Photos: Simon Cudby Words: Brandon Glanville

Skyler Howes Gets His Ride

We first met Skyler Howes at the 2018 Baja Rally where he was taking the opportunity to train and tune up his roadbook navigation. Earlier that spring, Skyler had won the Sonora Rally which secured him a spot in the 2019 Dakar Rally in Peru. The 2018 Sonora Rally was the first time he had ever raced with roadbook navigation, and he won it. There was no question that Howes was a talented rider, but the thing that really caught our attention was how genuinely nice he is. His energy is contagious and you can’t help but start smiling and laughing around him. Since that first encounter we have been on the Skyler Howes’ train... whether he wanted us or not. We kind of consider him “the local kid” even if he is not a kid and he lives 8 hours away from Boise. He lives in a state that touches our state and that’s all the justification we needed. Watching him race Dakar in 2019, fighting through injury and coming back in 2020 to finish 9th overall, cemented our resolve to promote him as best we could. Heading into the new year we reached out to find out what his plans were as the 2021 Dakar was coming up. We had heard rumblings that he may not race so we wanted to encourage him to keep going and find out what his game plan was.

It turns out he was indeed racing and had leveraged some of the contacts he’d made and had a ride set up. What he didn’t have was a significant sponsor shouldering a majority of the costs. His ride was through a “service team” which handles the bike, bike service and all of the logistics during the race. All Skyler had to do was fly in with his gear and ride the bike. At the end, they handed him a bill for services rendered. Knowing that bill was coming he aggressively cut his costs down, sold off all of his dirtbikes, sold his truck and anything else that wasn’t bolted down. The mountain bike was spared so he could train and get to work. He started selling stickers, T-Shirts and hosting ride days to raise funds. Although he didn’t like it one bit, he agreed to let us start a GoFundMe campaign to help reach a larger audience. He really didn’t want to be perceived as looking for a handout. All of a sudden Dakar 2021 was here and it was time to go race. Skyler felt like he had good momentum heading into this year’s race even with all the frustrations and canceled events due to Covid-19, and he bet it all. From the outside looking in, his 9th overall in 2020 was either a fluke or a sign of what was to come. Skyler finished up in 5th overall including a stage win. Definitely not a fluke. Fast forward a few months and here we are announcing Skyler Howes has signed a 3-year contract with Rockstar Husqvarna, riding a FR450 for a living. He bet it all and won. Congratulations Skyler! We are very proud of you and we will be cheering you on. It’s a real testament to who you are as a man just how many people are genuinely excited for this next step in your career.

CHECK OUT THE RIDE ON

TM Husqvarna Husaberg GasGas Beta Sherco Honda Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuki Acerbis Airoh Helmet krapovic Alpinestars Answer Arai Helmets Asterisk Athena Avon Tyres Baja Designs Battery Tender Bike Maste oyesen Braking Brembo Bel-Ray Bridgestone Bullet Proof Designs Cometic Continental CV4 Cyrca Devol Did P Brakes DRC Hardware Dunlop E-Line Accessories EBC EFX EMIG Racing Enduro Engineering Evans Coolan xcel Factory Effex Fasst Company Firstgear Fluidyne Fly Racing Fox Racing Fox Racing 2 Ergonomics Gaerne alfer Giant Loop Moto Gopro GPR Stabilizer Hardcore Hepco & Becker Hinson HMF Hot Rods Hotcam RT-Offroad Funnelweb Filters SKF Seals Ride Engineering Hammerhead C2P Suspension Pelican ICON IMS ossy Oak JD Jetting K&N Klim Technical Riding Gear Kriega Strider Bikes Goldentyre JT Sprockets ZIP-TY ammerhead Fastaway E4S-Engineeered For Speed Adventure Medical Kits Troy Lee Designs R&G Racing omp Grip Appalachian Moto Products (AMP) GET Atlas Brace Technologies EVS Sports L.A. 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Sleeve Leat eoVince Light Speed Magura Marchesini Maxima Maxxis Metzeler Michelin Moose Motion pro Moto Tassina oto-Master Motorex N-Style NGK No Toil Nuetech Ogio Ohlins P3 Composites Pirelli Pivot Works PJ1 Polispor astics Pro Circuit Pro Moto Billet Pro Taper Pro Wheel Pro X Puig R&D RacerX Rekluse Renthal Sato Racing corpion Helmets Scott Scotts Performance Shinko Shorai Batteries Smith Optics Speed And Strengtyh Steahly ff Road Sunstar Suspension Direct Synergy System Tech T.M. Designworks Tag Metals Talon Thor TORC1 Tra ech TwinAir UFO Vertex Warn Wiseco Works Connection Works Shocks WP Suspension Yoshimura Yuasa TheWings ultimate (online) motorcycle multi-tool. Millions of Exhaust parts and accessories, right atWerkes your fingertips. eta Sena 6D Helmets Seat Concepts Competition 100% Goggles LeoVince Coobe CU KTM Husqvarna Husaberg GasGas Beta Sherco Honda Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuki Acerbis Airoh Helmet krapovic Alpinestars Answer Arai Helmets Asterisk Athena Avon Tyres Baja Designs Battery Tender Bike aster Boyesen Braking Brembo Bel-Ray Bridgestone Bullet Proof Designs Cometic Continental CV4 Cyrca evol Did DP Brakes DRC Hardware Dunlop E-Line Accessories EBC EFX EMIG Racing Enduro Engineering vans Coolant Excel Factory Effex Fasst Company Firstgear Fluidyne Fly Racing Fox Racing Fox Racing 2 gonomics Gaerne Galfer Giant Loop Moto Gopro GPR Stabilizer Hardcore Hepco & Becker Hinson HM ot Rods Hotcams SRT-Offroad Funnelweb Filters SKF Seals Ride Engineering Hammerhead C2P Suspension elican ICON IMS Mossy Oak JD Jetting K&N Klim Technical Riding Gear Kriega Strider Bikes Goldentyre J prockets ZIP-TY Hammerhead Fastaway E4S-Engineeered For Speed Adventure Medical Kits Troy Lee Design &G Racing Stomp Grip Appalachian Moto Products (AMP) GET Atlas Brace Technologies EVS Sports L.A eeve Leatt LeoVince Light Speed Magura Marchesini Maxima Maxxis Metzeler Michelin Moose Motion o Moto Tassinari Moto-Master Motorex N-Style NGK No Toil Nuetech Ogio Ohlins P3 Composites Pirelli Pivo orks PJ1 Polisport Plastics Pro Circuit Pro Moto Billet Pro Taper Pro Wheel Pro X Puig R&D RacerX Rekluse enthal Sato Racing Scorpion Helmets Scott Scotts Performance Shinko Shorai Batteries Smith Optics Speed nd Strengtyh Steahly Off Road Sunstar Suspension Direct Synergy System Tech T.M. Designworks Tag Metal alon Thor TORC1 Trail Tech TwinAir UFO Vertex Warn Wiseco Works Connection Works Shocks WP Suspension oshimura Yuasa Zeta Sena 6D Helmets Wings Exhaust Seat Concepts Competition Werkes 100% Goggle eoVince Coober ECU KTM Husqvarna Husaberg GasGas Beta Sherco Honda Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuk cerbis Airoh Helmets Akrapovic Alpinestars Answer Arai Helmets Asterisk Athena Avon Tyres Baja Design attery Tender Bike Master Boyesen Braking Brembo Bel-Ray Bridgestone Bullet Proof Designs Cometic Motore TM Husqvarna Husaberg GasGas Beta Sherco Honda Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuki Acerbis Airoh Helmet krapovic Alpinestars Answer Arai Helmets Asterisk Athena Avon Tyres Baja Designs Battery Tender Bike Maste

HTTP://AOMC.MX

BY Travis Gill of viajarMOTO.com

As we rolled up to the Croatian border control checkpoint, the feelings of worry and excitement were heavy on our minds. Although the US Embassy website showed that American citizens were currently allowed into Croatia, we worried that the rules could quickly change and we would be turned away. We were also very excited because getting into Croatia would mean another 90-days of travel in a country we’ve both wanted to experience more of. We handed our passports, registration, and “green card” insurance documents to the stern-eyed looking woman wearing a black mask that covered her nose and mouth. She studied each of them carefully and then scanned them into her computer before typing on the keyboard. Although the process only took a few minutes, it felt like eternity due to our anxiety. The border patrol officer handed back our passports and documents, and said “Welcome to Croatia.” We both breathed a huge sigh of relief! We could now continue our full-time motorcycle over-landing and the beautiful country of Croatia was ours to explore!

Riding the Trans Euro Trail One of the first things we did was get off the beaten path to enjoy the isolation and natural beauty of the Trans Euro Trail (TET). A 371 km (231 mile) portion of the TET runs through this country from the northern border of Slovenia to the eastern border of Bosnia and Herzegovina. This trail winds through small villages, forested trails, mountain roads, fertile valleys, and dirt ridges that provide incredible views of the Adriatic Sea. You can read about our four-day ride along the Croatia TET in Upshift issue 52.

Much More than the TET If you’re strapped for time, then the TET is a great way for a dirt or adventure motorcyclist to experience Croatia. However, one would miss out on some other remarkable places. If you’re looking for more off-road oriented adventure, be sure to check out the trails around White and Samarian Rocks. We visited this area during the autumn season and were left in awe of the vibrant hues of reds, oranges, and yellows that burst from the surrounding forests. The Martian-like terrain of Pag Island is another place we enjoyed riding the rocky roads in search of what some believe to be a landing area of a UFO. Near the town of Novalja is a large triangle-shaped phenomenon where the rocks inside the triangle are of a different structure than the rocks outside. Some believe this was caused by a UFO, which superheated the rocks during landing and takeoff. Regardless of your feelings about UFOs, the area is definitely worth exploring the unique landscapes of barren rocky terrain contrasted against the clear blue-green waters of the Adriatic Sea. Mali Alan Pass is yet another “must ride” for those looking for off-road adventure! This gravel pass road snakes through the southern part of the Velebit Mountains and provides stunning views of the surrounding Adriatic Sea. Be sure to stop and enjoy the conglomerate of limestone cliffs of Tulove Grade where an old legend says that a dragon lives. Why not? After all, Croatia was the filming location for many scenes of the television series Game of Thrones.

OVERLANDER-S

YAMAHA TENERE 700

OS-BASE TENERE 700

An 'over the seat harness' which allows OS-6, OS-12 or OS-18 ADVENTURE PACKS to be mounted as soft panniers. No additional frames or rear rack are required, this system provides a super-tough, lightweight carrying solution specifically designed to fit the Yamaha Tenere 700 with no drilling or permanent bodywork alterations to the bike. EQUIPMENT ILLUSTRATED: • 2 x OS-12 ADVENTURE PACKS mounted on OS-BASE • 2 x OS-6 ADVENTURE PACKS mounted on crash bars • 1 x US-20 DRYPACK / TAIL PACK mounted on OS-BASE • Crash bars / bash plate by Outback-Motortek • Handguards by Barkbusters

KRIEGA.US

#RIDEKRIEGA

Island Hopping and National Parks Motorcyclists who visit Croatia should not feel they have to go offroad to enjoy the wonderful beauty of this diverse country. There is a lot to see and experience via the tarmac as well. The coastal route is especially enjoyable offering incredible views of the Adriatic Sea and the hundreds of islands that dot the coastline. During our time in Croatia we boarded numerous ferries between islands to include: Cres, Pah, Brač, Hvar, and Korčula. The island roads were perfect for carving around corners and taking in the sites, landscapes, and relaxed coastal towns unique to each of these islands. Although Croatia is a relatively small country, it features eight national parks. We were able to visit six of these parks: Plitvice Lakes, Krka, Kornati, Risnjak, Paklenica, and Northern Velebit. Each one offered unique hiking opportunities for those willing to park their motorcycles. The most popular parks are Plitvice Lakes and Krka with their crystal clear water and picturesque waterfalls connected via well-designed wooden pathways and hiking trails.

Croatian Cuisine Part of enjoying a culture is eating some of the local foods. One of our favorite meals was Cevapi. This is a minced meat rolled into a finger-like shape and then grilled. It is often served with delicious pita bread, chopped onions, and a red pepper sauce called Ajvar. Another delicacy is Peka – a meal consisting of meat, potatoes, and vegetables baked for 3-4 hours under a bell-like dome (ispod čripnje). Eating Peka felt like the country-style meals that I remembered as a kid growing up in Colorado.

A Turbulent Past As you travel around Croatia, you’re reminded of a difficult part of their history. This was a region of Europe that has experienced numerous wars throughout its turbulent past. The 20th century conflicts of WWI, WWII, Croatian War of Independence, and Bosnian War have left their impression upon the country. Abandoned military sites and villages, large land-mined areas, and war memorials are a common site in the backcountry. The most memorable were the Jasenovac Memorial Site, the Red Fićo, and various abandoned military installations. Jasenovac Memorial Site is a museum and memorial dedicated to remembering the hundreds of thousands of Serbs, Jews, Roma, ethnic Croats, and Muslims that died here in the forced labor and extermination camp. The six petal, flower-blossom shaped monument was designed by Serbian architect Bogdan Bogdanović and houses a crypt lined with railroad ties that were used to bring prisoners to the death camp. The surrounding landscape features earthen mounds where camp buildings used to be, and shallow mounds where graves once existed. This monument is regarded as one of the most striking genocide memorials in the world and it definitely left an impression on us.

The Red Fićo (also called Red Fiat) is a monument dedicated to an act of defiance during the Croatian War of Independence (1991-1995). Branko Breškić, a 31-year-old Croatian, was fueling his red Fiat when he noticed military tanks from the Yugoslavs People’s Army rolling through his city in a demonstration of force. Breškić quickly got in his car, raced ahead, and parked in front of the advancing tanks. He hardly had enough time to casually open his door and walk away. He hoped his actions would create a road block, however his red Fiat was no match for the advancing tank! The Fiat’s front end was crushed and the entire car was shoved aside as the tank continued rolling down the road. In 2011 a monument, where the red Fiat is now crushing a T-55 tank into the ground, was built to symbolize the Croatian victory over the Yugoslav Army and Serbian aggressors. Croatia also has a number of unique abandoned military installations. While riding on the TET, we visited Željava Air Base and a Yugoslav Douglas C-47 (UPSHIFT issue 52). While visiting the Island of Brač, we were told by some locals about a couple of former Yugoslavian submarine pens. A dirt road along the south of the island took us to a seaside concrete bunker where submarines could dock and be serviced while remaining hidden from satellite and reconnaissance aircraft. It was especially enjoyable to don my swim trunks and swim around in the same dock that was previously used during the Cold War to house Yugoslav submarines.

Generosity of Strangers Although the country has had a tumultuous past, it doesn’t define the people of Croatia today. Everyone we met was genuinely happy, extremely helpful, and interested in our travels. We were asked numerous times “How are you enjoying our country?” We have one particular story where we were overcome with gratitude after experiencing a minor breakdown. While riding through a curvy corner, I noticed my left foot peg felt like it was flexing. We pulled over to the side of the road and, sure enough, the peg’s metal bracket that attaches to the frame was broken in half. A proper fix would require a welder. We managed to attach enough paracord to the peg and frame to keep it from getting worse while we went in search of a weld shop. We noticed that Chantil’s left peg was also in need of repair since it was cracked as well. We found a place called TREA TRADE d.o.o. where, within seconds of explaining the problem, there was a group of men assembling tools and equipment needed to help us. Within an hour, they had removed the bracket, ground off the paint, welded the break, strengthened it with a backing plate, painted it, and had it back on both motorcycles. The foot peg bracket was now better than new! When we thanked them and asked “How much do we owe you?” they replied “It’s our favor. We hope you enjoy traveling in our country!” As much as we tried to pay, they would not accept it. They were just pleased to help a couple of travelers from a far-away country.

Definitely Worth Visiting Every motorcyclist, given the opportunity, should put Croatia on their “must ride” list. You won’t be disappointed with the off-road isolation, diverse natural beauty, coastal Mediterranean towns, delicious cuisine, historical monuments, and the wonderful people of this beautiful country.

About viajarMOTO.com Travis and Chantil Gill started full-time motorcycle overlanding in early 2020. You can follow them on their website www.viajarMOTO.com, and on YouTube, Instagram, and Facebook.

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I DEPART BLACK/SILVER FROST

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NEVA

DA 200 Words: Joe Terra

Photos: Simon Cudby, Miguel Santana

An evening sun lingers above the Nevada desert, west of the small town of Caliente. A cool breeze floats through the valley, following Great Basin Highway through the quiet, once-bustling railroad town. The 98-yearold Mission Revival-style railroad station stands against a backdrop of desert foothills, glowing in the evening light. It’s a standard scene from a western movie. And if you squint, you can barely see a UFO leaving Area 51 roughly 60 miles to the west. Birds chirp, oblivious. Maybe it’s just an airplane.

We’re at the 37th annual Nevada 200 Trail Ride, based out of Caliente, where dirt bikers come together every year to experience some of the greatest trails in eastern Nevada, led by off-road legends Scot Harden and Daryl Folks. What started in 1985 as a group of friends riding the desert together has since grown into an organized gathering with a 200-rider limit – made up of hobbyists and professionals – who travel from all over to meet friends old and new, all sharing the love of motorcycling.

Participants enjoy three days of mixed riding, all on hand-picked routes chosen by the organizers through decades of exploring the endless trails surrounding Caliente. Friday is a shorter half-day ride, Saturday is a full day and Sunday is another half day. Each day brings a different blend of fast sand washes, woodsy trails, flowing desert singletrack, tighter rocky trails, some water crossings and open desert terrain. Day 2 in particular treated us with incredible singletrack through a high desert forest, eventually leading to an open landscape where a lucky few of us watched a herd of wild horses running in the distance. It’s not a desert race or a hard enduro, it’s a trail ride – exactly as the name implies. You can stop and rest whenever you wish, take photos of the scenery and just ride whatever pace you feel. The trails are marked very well, with color-coded arrows and tags for both the A and C ride (different route options, C taking slightly less technical sections than A), occasional warning signs for trail obstacles and signs for trails merging. This makes it easy to get in a groove and just ride – no checking the GPS for navigation, no wondering how long till gas, just go where the trail leads you. Some sections of trail were cut in by off-road legend Casey Folks, Daryl’s father, and it’s an honor to experience that flow.

Gas and snack stops are set up at multiple points each day, with a main lunch stop on Day 2. This year, Day 2 was chilly with occasional snowfall, so the crew set up campfires for us to stay warm as we ate delicious pasta salad, regular salad, rolls and BBQ chicken, with lemon bars and cookies for dessert. Everything from the trail markings, to the food, the rider meetings and the overall organization is very polished and professional. To top it all off, after riding all day Saturday, we were treated to a dinner, the popular Easter egg hunt for prizes and the entertaining Whistledick awards, where the jokes, tall tales and good times continued. Hats off to Scot, Daryl and the rest of their team for all their efforts. Each day before we rode, the phrase, “it’s not a race,” was echoed repeatedly, in earnest by Scot and Daryl, and in jest by some riders anxious to get on the trail and flex their hotshot riding skills. What they didn’t realize is that standing in the riders meeting, we were in the midst of true motorcycling legends: Jack Johnson, AMA Hall of Famer, four-time Baja 1000 overall winner and the only person ever to overall the Baja 500 on a motorcycle. Kevin Schwantz, AMA Hall of Famer and World Road Racing Champion. Grant Langston, World Motocross Champion. Rodney Smith, AMA Hall of Famer and five-time GNCC Champion, with a host of other notable off-road successes. And of course, Daryl Folks, 14-time AMA #1 plate winner in various off-road racing disciplines and current CEO of Best In The Desert Racing Association, and Scot Harden, an

AMA Hall of Famer whose racing career spanned four decades, including multiple Baja 1000 and 500 overall championships, ISDE gold medals and Dakar Rally finishes. And that’s what makes this event special. We, the weekend warriors, can stand shoulder to shoulder with some of the greatest riders on Earth, crack jokes with them at dinner, and eat their dust (for a turn or two before they disappear) because we’re all here to have fun and make memories. It’s not just about the time we spend on the bikes, either. It’s about the time we spend with other people that happens to be around motorcycles.

CHECK OUT OUR RIDE ON

“I’ve raced my entire career just so I could get to ride for fun,” Scot explained. His and Daryl’s racing careers have taken them around the world and have ultimately kept them in touch with what makes this sport so great: the memories and experiences we share at a motorcycle ride. “Nobody starts with racing. We all rode before we raced, and that’s what this is about,” Daryl said. The passion for riding transcends skill and race achievements, and it’s the camaraderie among riders that keeps Scot and Daryl running this event every year. So, block off your calendar and put the Nevada 200 on your schedule, it’s an event you won’t want to miss.

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Once a growing railroad town part way between Los Angeles and Salt Lake City, Caliente is a community enduring the challenges of poverty. The Nevada 200 is a major economic booster for local businesses, bringing over $500,000 in cash flow to hotels, restaurants, gas stations and other businesses, according to Harden Off-Road. On top of that, the Nevada 200 has donated over $50,000 to local schools, sports and recreation projects for the community. While it’s not an official fundraising event, the Nevada 200 creates a positive impact from motorized trail users, which is always a welcome portrayal of the powersports community.

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TESTED

BY CHAD DE ALVA

Alpinestars TECH 10 SUPERVENTED BOOTS How many times have you peeled your boots off after a ride where you felt sorry for the raisin-y things called your feet that you just freed from the swamp inside your boots? Whether from perspiration, a water crossing, or a rainstorm, wet feet are a common occurrence with modern motocross boots. The fact of the matter is that plastic doesn’t breathe at all, leather doesn’t breathe well, and on most boots the only hole is at the top. And water still hasn’t developed the ability to drain up. Once your feet are wet in motocross boots, they are most likely going to stay wet for a while. Yet Alpinestars has a solution to the stagnant swamp found inside of most MX boots. They’ve taken their impressive Tech 10 motocross boot, and filled it with vents to create the Tech 10 Supervented – and this new boot is the coolest and quickest drying boot I’ve ever worn. The Tech 10 Supervented is a version of the standard Tech 10 that is all about moving as much air through the boot as possible to promote convective cooling. Starting at the toe of the boot, you’ll find a couple of intakes that allow cool air to enter the boot where it is then fed through channels in the sole, a special insole, and a mesh bootie to deliver cool air to your foot. As you move up the boot, you’ll find things like perforated padding, and a ventilated shin plate which feed air to your ankle and shin. The back side of the boot has exhaust vents that allow hot air to escape. In lab testing, Alpinestars states that the Tech 10 Supervented dissipates 34% more heat than a non-vented boot. And all of this venting has been incorporated without compromising the safety or fit of the boot.

Starting with fit, the Tech 10 Supervented boots are the best-fitting boot I’ve ever worn. I’ve had to work on other brand’s top shelf boots to dial-in the fit, by doing things like custom insoles and thermoforming. Yet, with the Tech 10 Supervented, I just had to put them on. The bootie and boot system may sound like a hassle, but it’s actually really easy to use. The bootie secures with Velcro, and the boot uses three buckles that work great and are much easier to manipulate than other brand’s buckles. Fit is a subjective thing, as human feet come in all shapes and sizes, but to quantify sizing as best as I can, my feet measure 10 and C width on a brannock device, which is that old school metal foot measuring contraption you’ll find at a good outdoor gear shop. Size 10 Tech 10’s fit me great, and I have yet to so much as feel a hot spot on my feet while wearing these boots.

Alpinestars TECH 10 SUPERVENTED BOOTS Protection provided by the Tech 10 series is top shelf, and I can quantify that by pointing to the CE rating for these boots. The Tech 10 Supervented has earned superior pass ratings for standard EN 13634:2017, which measures abrasion resistance, impact cut, and transverse rigidity in motorcycle boots. The CE standard doesn’t test every single protection mechanism on the boot, but know that the Tech 10 is designed to fully protect your foot. Hyper-flexion and extension protection works progressively, meaning that the boot doesn’t crash into a hard stop should you flex or extend your foot too far. Alpinestars also incorporates their Dynamic Heel Compression Protector (DHCP) system into these boots, and while DHCP might sound like something an IT guy would talk about, it’s actually a genius heel protection system that can absorb impact energy in a crash, which can help protect against bruising your heel or worse. On the pegs, the Tech 10s grip exceptionally well. The replaceable sole area runs from the front of the heel cup to the ball of your foot, so no matter where you spend your time standing on the pegs, you’ll find great traction and be able to replace that part of the sole should you wear it out. You’ll find additional grip panels on the medial side (side toward the bike) of the boot, but if you run Over The Boot (OTB) pants, you obviously won’t be able to take advantage of this additional grip. Downward control interface is great, and I felt that I had a great connection to my shift lever and especially my brake pedal. These boots will feel rather stiff for the first few rides and that can make upshifting somewhat challenging. However, once you have a few hours on them, these boots work great with the bike’s foot controls. When it comes to venting, the Supervented lives up to its namesake. The obvious disclaimer here is that these boots will vent the best with In The Boot (ITB) pants. If you run OTB pants, you are basically opening the window, and then closing the blinds on all the vents above the ankle, which means that your OTB pants will reduce the airflow that can make it through your boot. That being said, even with OTB pants on, the way these boots breathe is pretty impressive. Airflow is a function of speed for the Tech 10 Supervented, so your type of riding will determine how much air is able to flow through your boot. On single track and while doing soft enduro riding, the boots felt cooler to me than other boots I’ve worn, but it’s when you get to cruising on a dual sport ride and even more so on an ADV bike that you really start to feel the Superventing move some air. This does make for very thermally comfortable feet, but you need to exercise care in gear selection, as it’s possible to wind up with cold feet if you do something like go for a freeway blast on a freezing cold morning. You can control the amount of air entering the toe intakes by changing how the toes of your boots are exposed to the oncoming air, but this isn’t always easy to do effectively.

Alpinestars TECH 10 SUPERVENTED BOOTS Speaking of those toe vents, yes, they will allow dust to enter the boot – but it’s really not a big deal. After a session in our local sandy single track I certainly had dust in my boots and that dust made it all the way through the bootie and into my socks, but it’s nothing a quick hose out of the boots, and a quick bootie rinse can’t fix. The benefit of additional cooling is worth getting a little dust in your boots. What’s awesome about the Supervented boot however, is how much quicker the boot will dry out after you dunk your foot in a water crossing. Think about it – most boots are made of materials that aren’t known for their quick dry properties, and once they get wet, they’re going to stay wet for a while. Yet the Tech 10 Supervented boots will dry surprisingly fast after immersion in water. For a quick shade-tree science test I put on one Tech 10 Supervented boot and one boot from another manufacture. I then stepped into knee deep water, and after soaking the boots I went for a ride to see how long it took for the boots to dry out. Lets just say one boot was still wet when I got home, and it wasn’t the Tech 10 Supervented. Alpinestars Tech 10 Supervented boots are great riding boots that make a real difference when it comes to keeping your feet happy. Superventing is not some marketing gimmick, but a functional design change that makes a very noticeable difference in how these boots can cool your feet, and allow your feet to dry out after your boots get wet. Fit, function, and protection are great, so you can buckle into these boots knowing that you’re not giving anything up in exchange for cooler, happier feet. As long as you don’t need to grind out 100 miles of freeway in freezing temperatures, these boots are the business, and one more way you can make riding in the heat more enjoyable. If you’re ready to experience top shelf fit, protection, and cooling, you can’t beat the Alpinestars Tech 10 Supervented. MSRP: $649.95. ww.alpinestars.com

TESTED

BY CHAD DE ALVA

Wolfman Luggage BASE SYSTEM/ROLIE BAGS Traveling on a motorcycle is an exercise in traveling efficiently. Space for carrying gear is a precious resource and making good choices on items that you want versus items that you need can help you avoid turning your bike into some comically overloaded accident waiting to happen. Yet many luggage systems on the market only have a fixed volume of gear storage they provide, or the steps in storage volume are significant. Take a look at hard panniers for example. With a pair of 45 liter panniers, you either get 45 or 90 liters of storage – but what if the gear for your trip occupies 60 liters, and you don’t want 30 liters of stuff bouncing around in your panniers? Yeah, you could pack extra stuff you don’t need, but that’s extra weight, extra stuff you have to deal with, and you’re not solving the root problem here. Thankfully, Wolfman Luggage has the answer. Their luggage systems bring all of the versatility to motorcycle luggage so that you can pack exactly what you want, exactly where you want, to create a highly customized loadout for any adventure. The Wolfman Luggage Base System is the most versatile motorcycle luggage system I’ve ever used. There are two bases which mount to your bike – one for big ADV bikes (B Base) and one for smaller dirt bikes (E Base). From these bases you have a platform where you can attach Wolfman’s three sizes of Rolie Bags, in the size, quantity, and configuration that you need to create the perfect luggage system for your next adventure. Small Rolies hold 6 liters, Medium hold 12 liters, and Large hold 20 liters of gear. Going fast and light for an overnight under the stars to recce a new spot? Slap on a couple of Medium bags to carry just the essentials. Loading up for a weeklong safari that’s going through a few states? Build your perfect loadout with multiple bags to support your adventure. The bases also provide plenty of points to attach other bags and gear, so you are not limited to just the Rolie bags. Once you get your head around the versatility of this system, the way that it can be employed to make your rides more enjoyable is endless. As the name implies, Rolie bags are roll-top closure bags with square bases that are easy to affix to just about anything. Around the circumference of the bag you’ll find rows of holes that work similarly to a MOLLE system where you can weave a strap into the bag to secure it. Additionally, there are straps on the exterior of the bag for easy connection to a base, or any other place you want to secure the bag. Wolfman also makes a base that allows you to secure Rolie bags to the sides of your bike’s tank, if your bike doesn’t have crash bars – so the Rolie bags are truly a mount-it-anywhere bag. When it comes to packing a Rolie bag, using one of the matched Stuff-It Stuff Sacks is a must, as these genius stuff sacks are intentionally undersized to their corresponding Rolie bag, so no matter how much gear you cram into a Stuff-It, it will still go in or come out of a Rolie bag with ease.

Wolfman Luggage BASE SYSTEM/ROLIE BAGS Wolfman Luggage has been in business for 29 years, and riders who are familiar with the brand may have noticed that the Rolie bags are RF welded, whereas older Wolfman bags are sewn. In 2019, Wolfman made a significant pivot as a business when they switched from sewn construction to RF Welded construction. As a result of this change, the company essentially reinvented their product line, but this change has lead to a better relationship with a new manufacturer, better production yields, and a better product for the customer. RF Welding makes a product that is inherently waterproof, as there are no seams that need to be taped, or stitches that can be misaligned or that can fail. RF welding also allows for new design features and product functions that would be very hard to create with a sewing process. Wolfman continues to be very particular about the details for their products. Take their buckles for example – Wolfman is still working with their original buckle supplier and they continue to make a quality buckle; this means that Wolfman still has spare buckles for your 20 year old bag. Developing a load out for Wolfman luggage requires a completely different approach than with many other luggage systems. Instead of being forced into the “have space, will fill” method, you first need to determine what gear is needed, and then choose how you want to pack that gear most effectively. That’s the beauty of the Wolfman approach – you can build a system that carries the exact items you need, instead of trying to fit the items you need into your fixed-volume luggage system in a way that they won’t spend the trip bouncing around and beating each other up. To get the most out of a Wolfman system, you need to allow yourself plenty of time to pack and optimize a loadout, and this holds true before the trip starts, and when you’re getting packed up each day on a trip. The trade off for so much versatility is that it takes time to install and remove Rolie bags from a base or some other part of your bike. Using the Stuff-It Stuff Sacks can save you having to pull Rolie Bags if you’re walking away from your bike, but just know that these bags do not quick disconnect.

Wolfman Luggage BASE SYSTEM/ROLIE BAGS In use, the base and Rolie bag system has proven to work exactly as advertised, and the versatility has been eye-opening. Just like having the perfect bike for every type of ride would make any given ride more fun, having the luggage loadout that’s perfectly matched for any adventure only serves to improve the experience. In a way it’s humbling, as you’ll find yourself continuously improving your loadout techniques, and figuring out how to more effectively employ the Wolfman Base System. Wolfman Luggage also makes a number of other duffle bags, saddle bags, accessory bags, and tank bags which can address almost any luggage need. The Enduro Tank Bag has proven to swallow a surprising amount of gear without getting in the way while riding standing up. There is a top mountable map pouch, and the tank bag is secured to a harness with a few buckles, so it’s easy to bring the Enduro with you when you’re walking away from your bike. The Enduro tank bag is a great compliment to the Base and Rolie system, and it’s made using the same bomber materials and quality construction as the rest of the Wolfman kit. Having a collection of Rolie bags and a couple of bases is really all you need to be able to load out any bike for any adventure, and that’s a pretty empowering luggage system. On one day, you can take your E Base and slap on a couple of small rollies to hold an extra layer and lunch for an all day dual sport ride. On the next day, you can use your B Base on your big bike, and with a different combination of bags, you can kit up for several days of BDR style riding. Wolfman luggage is well made, extensively tested, and full of details and features that will reward users who spend the time to really dial in their setups. When you have a luggage system where you can secure Rolie bags to other Rolie Bags, or just about anywhere on a bike, you have an incredibly versatile motorcycle luggage system that can be configured to effectively support any adventure. Check out Wolfman Luggage at. www.wolfmanluggage.com

IS HARLEY along for the ride? PAN AMERICA LAUNCH Harley-Davidson is entering the ADV market with many critics, skeptics, and ruthless keyboard warriors ready to pounce. Will the H-D Pan America live up to the hype or will it match the hate? Delayed by the pandemic by almost a year, we finally get a chance to throw a leg over the Pan America 1250 Special, all 559+ pounds of American heritage and steel. Open your mind and join us for two days in the Mojave desert aboard the newest adventure moto available.

By RANDY Commans

PHOTOS BY BRIAN J. NELSON AND Kevin WING

Before we even fire it up, let’s put the look/styling of the PA to rest. We have heard from many of you, and we hear you loud and clear. Most of you are not at all crazy about the way it looks, and many of the Upshift crew would probably agree. But hey, it’s a Harley-Davison adventure bike. It should bear the look and heritage of a Harley. I, for one, appreciate and embrace its Harley-esque features. In person the PA stands out from the crowd, with a nod to previous H-D models the chiseled jaw and furrowed brow of the front end. No need for side panels, plastic fairings, and all that pretty shit we normally put sticker kits on. Its loudest aesthetic feature is the orange aluminum tank with a tone-on-tone H-D logo. Or, you can order it in Black, Gauntlet Gray Metallic, or Deadwood Green if the Baja Orange is more than you can handle. Enough said about the looks. It can be polarizing and everyone has their opinion on it. Let’s get to what really matters… Starting with the engine, the PA comes with an all-new engine designed specifically for this model. The Revolution® Max 1250 engine is a complete departure from traditional H-D power plants. H-D is first to market with computer-controlled Variable Valve Timing (VVT) on both the intake and exhaust camshafts. It delivers performance, smooth low-end torque, and is highly customizable with the advanced electronic features this class is accustomed to. It’s a slightly off-set V-Twin (very H-D in that way) with two counterbalancers to reduce vibration. It has a good solid sound, probably a little more bark than most big bikes in stock form. While the engine is smooth, it still has enough vibration to offer the rider some feedback. From what we are told, there are no scheduled service valve adjustments, just changing oil, cleaning the air filter, and checking nuts and bolts. You will have to remove the tank to clean the air filter, but it’s only 3 bolts and a high-grade quick connect on the fuel line.

HARLEY DAVIDSON PAn AMERICA

The PA has a 6-speed trans with a good feel but void of “quick shift” (hopefully in a future generation). The cable pull clutch has a good feel, although the thick lever feels more road bike-ish which isn’t great but it didn’t bother me. Chain Drive, it’s been decades since H-D has produced a chain drive motorcycle - a chain is the best choice for dirt bikes and good for the companies that make chain lube! The Brembo brakes have plenty of power and a good feel. The Special comes with 19”/17” laced wheels that performed well on pavement, but I would prefer a 21”/18” set-up for the dirt. That comes with a taller standover height but the pros outweigh the cons for me. Additionally, there are more tire choices for the 21”/18” wheels that suit off tarmac exploring. Okay, here is where things get a little gimmicky… or not really. Gimmicky is what I fully expected from the next two features: Semi-Active Suspension Modes and Adaptive Ride Height (ARH). In a nutshell, the Semi-Active Suspension adds all kinds of versatility with electronic settings. So if you’re on the road, off-road, packed to camp or two up... the electronics are adjusting for the weight differences, riding surfaces, and even a final tune on the firmness you prefer in each of those conditions. It may not be race bike set-up good, but this is not a race bike, and the automatic adjustments make the ride so much better and take the worry out of confusing suspension set-ups. Now let’s talk ARH (Adaptive Ride Height). I’m tall enough at 5’ 12” (such a wannabe 6 footer) that bike height isn’t a huge issue, but man, is getting on and off a bike that lowers seamlessly when you come to a stop a cool feature. Throwing a leg over is a no-brainer. Only a couple times during the two days of riding did I even notice the height was adjusting. Turns out the two features on the PA that had me scratching my head in doubt turned out to be favorites.

The Mojave Desert turns out to be a perfect place for us to get acquainted with the Pan America. A good portion of the development by H-D was done at their testing facility in Arizona at the Proving Grounds with very similar terrain to the Mojave. Harley based us out of the Raw-Hyde facility known as Zakar, fed us well, and opened our skeptical minds with a few adult beverages to just how good this bike is. With an 8:30am start time, controls and seat heights adjusted, we headed off down the highway towards Tehachapi. Cruising at 75 mph down the highway was comfortable, and the engine felt strong with good acceleration at highway speeds. Wind protection is minimal but appropriate if this really is an off-road capable ADV. I’m still keeping my fingers crossed at this point that it is. Next, we jump onto the canyon road of Caliente Bodfish, with a H-D branded version of the Michelin Anakee tires and we run the twisty canyon to Lake Isabella straight through to Weldon. I figured the PA was going to be good in the canyon, and it was. It’s no sit-over-the-top canyon carver, but it’s everything you would want out of a big adventure bike. It holds a line well and has plenty of pull coming out of the corners. With traction control turned off as much as it can be, it’s a strong wheelie candidate. It’s enjoyable. Once through Weldon and headed to Jawbone, I’m starting to get excited to get this thing dirty. Pavement now turns to dirt, and the PA feels right at home. The suspension feels good; it handles well as I make more dust than I should for the guys in the back. Sorry but I wanna see how the PA feels when it breaks loose and test the off-road TC and ABS settings. All good, the electronics offer many choices and deliver on all of them. I can turn the rear ABS off entirely, I can unlink the front and rear brake, and choose suspension firmness. With only about an hour in the dirt, we found ourselves back on the pavement and headed to Zakar. I notice fuel is low, and we haven’t done more than 150 miles, and we still have 25 plus to go. Maybe it wasn’t full when we left, but I could have sworn the range read 250 when we left that am. I make it back with my range zeroed out and chalk this up to me not paying attention to being topped off.

HARLEY DAVIDSON PAn AMERICA

On our final ride day, the PA is prepped with Michelin Anakee Wild tires (knobbies), and I check to make sure I have a full fuel tank. Knowing I have a familiar set of tires takes “what the tire is doing” out of the test equation… for the most part. This bike is good in the dirt; it corners well, you can get on the front end and it holds the line. It’s very friendly at slow speeds, I would even say beginner-friendly. The various off-road settings work and manage the feel of the bike very well. As I escalate to off-road plus and select an even firmer suspension setting, the bike now feels much more aggressive. Pushing the bike harder, ground clearance becomes a minor issue, but in reality, I think the skid plate only kissed the ground one time all day. It responds well to aggressive riding, I’m not talking race pace blowing through shit, but it likes being pushed and is very predictable—more than capable for 95% of the ADV market. I know the haters and close-minded aren’t going to want to hear this, but the H-D Pan America lives up to the hype and exceeds my expectations offroad. The two features I thought would be gimmicky (Semi-Active Suspension Modes & Adaptive Ride Height) work seamlessly, adding to the pure enjoyment of your ride.

So what are my gripes? Not having a quick shift wasn’t a big deal for me. On the pavement as a seated rider, clutch use is much easier and not a concern. Off-road in the standing position, it becomes more of a “wish I had it” feature. Rolling my levers down far enough on any adventure bike to allow comfortable clutch use isn’t my reality. Quick-shift is one of those features that, once you have it, it’s hard to go without. At speed, it would be nice to have a high-end aftermarket steering stabilizer; I think all good ADV bikes could benefit from one. The handguards, while stylish, kept un-clipping at the bar end when bumped; I imagine that would only become worse over time. It could easily be fixed temporarily with a small zip-tie or safety wire but they are clearly not meant to take a hit. Probably the biggest miss would be the lack of range. On the second day of riding also, I realized that 175 miles of twisting the throttle was about the PA’s limit. Not sure what kind of range you are looking for, but the guys I ride with like 200+ as a minimum. None of my gripes are serious enough to be deal-breakers; I’d still really enjoy taking on a big adventure on the Pan America. My hope is you read this initial impression with an open mind. Harley-Davidson earned this review, and I am very impressed with the Pan America. I have never had much interest in owning a H-D as I grew up riding dirt bikes. That last day, I found myself riding back to Zakar with a big smile on my face thinking it’s pretty damn cool to be doing this on a Harley-Davidson. Welcome to our world Harley!

HARLEY DAVIDSON PAn AMERICA

SPECIFICATIONS MSRP: $19,999 Engine:

DOHC, liquid-cooled, 60-degree V-twin; 4 valves/cyl.

Displacement: 1,252cc Bore x Stroke:

104.9 x 72.1mm

Compression Ratio: 13.0:1 Transmission/Final Drive: 6-speed/chain Claimed Horsepower:

150 hp @ 9,000 rpm

Claimed Torque:

94 lb.-ft. @ 6,750 rpm

Fuel System:

Electronic Sequential Port Fuel Injection (ESPFI)

Clutch:

Wet, multiplate slipper/assist; cable actuation

Frame:

Stressed-member alloy steel trellis; forged aluminum mid-structure

Front Suspension:

47mm inverted fork, electronically adjustable semi-active damping, optional adjustable ride height; 7.5 in. travel

Rear Suspension:

Piggyback monoshock; electronically adjustable semi-active compression and rebound damping, automatic electronic preload, optional adjustable ride height; 7.5 in. travel

Front Brake:

4-piston Brembo monoblock calipers, 320mm disc w/ ABS

Rear Brake:

1-piston Brembo caliper, 280mm disc w/ ABS

Wheels, Front/Rear:

Cast aluminum, optional anodized aluminum laced tubeless; 19 x 3 in. / 17 x 4.5 in.

Tires, Front/Rear:

Michelin Scorcher Adventure Radial; 120/70R-19 / 170/60R-17

Rake/Trail:

25.0°/6.2 in.

Wheelbase:

62.2 in.

Ground Clearance:

8.3 in.

Seat Height:

31.1 in./32.1 in.

Fuel Capacity:

5.6 gal.

Claimed /Wet Weight:

559 lb.

Availability:

May 2021

10 Y E A RS • 1O ROU T E S • 10,000 MIL E S OF A DVEN T URE

FOLLOW A DECADE-LONG JOURNEY OF THE BDR ORGANIZATION FROM ITS RAGTAG BEGINNINGS TO BECOMING A WELL-RESPECTED NAME IN THE ADVENTURE MOTORCYCLE COMMUNITY

A BDR DOCUMENTARY FILMS PRODUCTION DIRECTED BY: STERLING NOREN

LIVE ONLINE PREMIERE

SUNDAY, MAY 16TH 5PM PST DETAILS AT: RIDEBDR.COM/10YEARS

208-417-1726 I SEATCONCEPTS.COM

BY MICHNUS OLIVIER

www.pikipikioverland.com

PART ONE

Just a few weeks before, we were running around the shipping port of Cartagena to clear our motorcycles which we shipped by container from Panama together with two other vehicles. We had quite a few places to stop for our papers to be stamped and approved and insurances arranged before we could get our motorcycles out of the container. Cartagena with its cobblestoned colonial historic inner city, vivid and beautiful buildings has a distinct, colorful Cuban atmosphere with a warm ocean and Caribbean beaches. As we rode inland away from the coast, the landscapes turned into the lush green verdant country. I could not help to think about the conversation we had with a local Colombian rider earlier that week that there is an entire universe more to Colombia than Pablo Escobar and drugs. He said, “Please do not travel the country and identify the country with Escobar.” The scars and hurt are still very visible to most Colombians. He mentioned with the Netflix series of Escobar, it felt to Colombians that visitors visit the country for Escobar’s history. Most Colombians do not want to be identified with him. As we said our good-byes, he waved us off with a warning that although there are currently no no-go-zones, we should still ask locals about the areas we are planning to ride. Colombia was voted one of the happiest nations in the world a few years ago. We have not met one traveler who did not mention to us that Colombia was one of the best all-around countries they have ever traveled to. The people, culture, and landscapes can keep you busy for a lifetime. Add to this the incredible mixture of landscapes and terrain, and you have an adventure biking heaven. From the Andean summits and glaciers, yes, Colombia has glaciers, to the colorful cobbled stone colonial villages, to the white sand beaches of the Caribbean coast, the Indiana Jones-style Amazon jungle, red rivers, and the world-renowned archaeological ruins, Colombia offers all of South America’s appeal. We were for sure not just going to stick to the tourist areas. The game plan was to see as much as possible that Colombia has to flaunt. We stuck mostly to dirt roads. This added more fun to the riding, especially due to the narrow single lanes or dirt track roads through many unexplored areas. Into the coffee region with their green coffee plant-covered hills, many small dirt roads pass by small fincas (farms) with neatly manicured shrub fences.

THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE

Cabo de la Vela, a dusty one-street gritty kite surfing village at the most northerly point of Colombia, South America. It is a desert with white sand beaches, blood-red sunsets, and suntanned kite surfers with white bleached hair, surfing till sun-under. A must-see solely because it was so close to Cartagena, and it is a cheesy thing to say that we staked a pin in South America’s most northerly point.

THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE

Our roughly planned route was to get to the Andes. We searched for smaller tracks on dangerousroads.com and made good use of Google Earth. We were awarded adrenaline-induced roads and scenery that we had not seen or experienced in a very long time. Colombia’s equatorial position affords it a diversity of landscapes matched by few countries.

THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE

Full-on adventure riding started the day we left Playa de Belen, an offthe-radar treasure of a wonderfully photogenic white-washed village that felt like it hailed from a different century. Colombia’s dioramas of coffee-table book-perfect pueblos (small towns) are among the best preserved on the continent. Most of the small villages in Colombia feel like a movie set stuck in the 16th-century. The track was a crazy spaghetti-style route through the mountains. Little did we know it was going to be a single track that bounced from better to worse all through the day. The track meanders through small villages boosting a few shops and churches whose spires are visible from a distance. The famously mentioned death roads in Colombia are not fairy tales. The roads in the mountains zig-zag up and down the sides of cliffs creating heart-stopping moments when you view the drop-offs. These roads turn into proper death roads in the rain, and you will start to pray and call up any God even if you are not religious. In the dry, it is slow going, and in the rain, the going turns to a crawl. We were awarded some rain and had to ride mostly with our visors open, wet faces, as closing the visors created too much fog. Luckily it was a warm and not freezing cold area. At least we could see where we were going, could appreciate the other-worldly green rolling hills and mountains in the distance where we still had to traverse. Crossing rivers over dilapidated bridges is part of the ride in most of the mountainous parts of Colombia. Landscapes are scarred by landslides from years of heavy rain, the water sculpting the sides of mountains. Eight days before Christmas in 2010, a massive landslide took out most of the 153-year-old town of Gramalote. We rode into part of this town unbeknownst to us what had happened. We were initially stunned and bewildered as to what invisible power possibly could have destroyed a town in such a powerful swipe. Only some parts of the broken church stand as a monument to the devastation. We learned later that a few kilometers away, a new town was built in a more stable area. It did not look like an earthquake. The earth was crushed like Thor smashed his hammer into a miniature town set up, but locals informed us that it was a massive landslide that caused the horror. This was reminiscent of many small villages throughout Colombia. Landslides are a massive problem and a big killer in Columbia.

THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE

People are incredibly friendly, and most come to ask us the normal, where are you from, where are you going, why are you here and then the “Welcome to Colombia!”. They would even escort us to the local hotel or inn to find a room. Around 6pm, these small-town plazas come to life. Food vendors arrive, restaurants open, and people meander in. During this time of the day, people gather to mingle and share their stories, to eat, drink and be happy. Most of the small villages have some kind of challenge or competition with another to be the most colorful. The walls are covered with striking colorful mural art. Color is a big part of the culture, and it is also very visual on cars, paintings, and anything else that can be painted. A local rider, Andres, messaged us one day and said he wanted to take us on a route that few riders take in the area around the coffee region. It would also lead us to Los Nevados National Natural Park, which is home to dramatic volcano-shaped landscapes and the three volcanos: Nevado del Ruiz “Sleeping Lion,” Nevado de Santa Isabel, and Nevado del Tolima. These dirt roads around the volcanos are rugged single-track roads with threatening drop-offs. No going fast, a good thing as the surrounding landscapes are from another world. The roads were wet and muddy, which made our riding much more focused. At that altitude, there are no trees, just shrubs, and small bushes. As we rode, dark rain clouds moved over with thick mist rolling in over the slope of the volcanos, making it even more dramatic. The temperature dropped to a chill in double-quick time. At some point, we had to make camp and stopped at a small hut constructed from rocks. We asked if we could camp behind the house, and the owner eagerly waived us to a flat area to pitch the tents. He brought us excellent news that there was a natural hot-spring down the valley just a few kilometers away. After a full day’s ride, a hot spring was just what the doctor ordered. We soaked away while sipping some whiskey and got back to the tents just before the rain started again. All in all, a good day, we agreed as we sat around the fire under our self-made tarpaulin roof between the tents to wait for the rain to clear.

THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE

Eventually, after 12 hours of riding through parts of the most mind-bending beautiful tropical areas and rainstorms, we fell tiredly into the small town of Pamplona near the Venezuelan border. Cold and wet, we just ate and went to bed. This became the routine for us the next few weeks. Get up, have a quick bite, hit the dirt, and late afternoon ride into a village—full 8-hour riding days and sometimes covering merely 250 kilometers for the day. The small villages are a welcome reprieve. The plazas (squares) in these towns our aim as this is where you will find life, the church, maybe a hotel and a restaurant or two.

THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE

Not far from the hot springs, another very tragic catastrophe happened on 13 Nov 1985. It was the Awful Story of Omayra Sánchez. I was in school and saw the photo of this little girl that suffered for 3 days stuck in a landslide mud pool. The rescue people could not get her out. The image haunted me ever since. Unbeknownst to me, we rode past the place the landslide happened. That tragic day, after 140 years, Nevado del Ruiz “Sleeping Lion” erupted. The Lahars, the violent and terrifying mudflow of pyroclastic material, rocky debris, and vast quantities of water released by the near-instantaneous melting of the Nevado del Ruiz glacier caused this landslide. The first of three lahars and the most powerful of that night wiped fourteen towns and villages from the face of the earth, killing as many as 20,000 in Armero alone. The worst in Colombia’s history. The scars from the landslide will be there for ages. The tragedy left a planet-size gaping canyon on the lower slopes of the volcano. Riding down from that altitude, there is quite a visible change in the plant growth. Above 3000m, there is little to nothing growing higher than a short shrub. Getting down to about 2500m, the forest growth suddenly reappears, closing up around and above us. Colombia is a pure unadulterated motorcycle riding bliss. A riding nirvana, whether you are a tar road or an offroad rider. There are enough roads to satisfy both. Forget about those nicey-nicey European passes. Colombia is king of passes. They are engaging to ride. They are coming at you one after the other with one more scary than the next. Most of the passes are the kind of exciting riding that demands your full attention and focus. No bend is the same as the next, with landscapes that are pulling your eyes away from the road. There are mesmerizing fairytale green lush forests or mountainous terrains with volcanos and glaciers to take in while leaning into the next corner. Colombia is a country which had their fair share of pain in the past. But, it is a country with incredibly resilient, resourceful, happy, and friendly people that are inviting to foreigners and are super proud of their country. There are few countries we have ever traveled with such natural beauty and inviting people.

THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE

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Photo: Chad De Alva

September 12th – 17th, 2021 Crested Butte, Colorado Colorado600.org The Colorado 600 is an annual five day ride and trail symposium held by the Trails Preservation Alliance (TPA), sanctioned by the American Motorcyclist Association. Riders learn first hand about issues facing trail riding in Colorado, Utah and New Mexico. All proceeds from the event support the TPA and it’s mission.

The Trails Preservation Alliance is a 501(c)(3) non-profit Colorado based off-highway motorcycle advocacy organization. We work with various land agencies to ensure equitable access for the sport of motorcycle riding. Learn more at www.coloradotpa.org.

WORDS BY ADAM BOOTH

PHOTOS BY SIMON CUDBY

Our Project was based off the 1987 Sunauto Yamaha Dakar team XT660.

In the quest for greatness, the Upshift Online Ténéré 700 has received a slew of new modifications. Our T7 upgrades started off small and simple and have blossomed into this incredible-looking bike. For the most part, the first round of modifications were kept, but a bunch of new cool stuff was added. The goodies that stayed the same on the Upshift T7 are the Dunlop tires. The Dunlop D606 front and D908RR rear tires are great all-around adventure bike tires for riders who want some decent traction off-road. The Outback Motortek crash bars and skid plate remain, well, because how can you ride a bike off-road without excellent protection? Again, Upshift can’t get enough of the Doubletake Mirrors. They are simply amazing. They find a way on all of the Upshift rides.

CHANGE IS GOOD For this stage of the build, Upshift went with a complete Yoshimura exhaust system. An entire stock T7 exhaust weighs 18 pounds, 6 ounces. The Yoshimura full system weighs 12 pounds, 3 ounces, saving just over 6 pounds. Upshift ran the slip-on RS-12 muffler with the stock header, which knocks of some weight, frees up a little power, and of course, sounds amazing. The CP2 engine powering the T7 has been around a long time, so an ECU setting for an open exhaust and open airbag wasn’t hard to find. Keep in mind, the complete Yosh system is a closed-course system for those who live and ride in areas where those sorts of things matter. To boost braking power and feel, Galfer stepped in and provided Wave rotors front and back, Sintered metal brake pads, and braided stainless brake lines. The T7 already has a seat height usable by a wide variety of heights. Still, for the not-so-tall riders, Seat Concepts makes a comfort low seat that is made for long days in the saddle. Made in the USA is an added bonus. As with any motorcycle, the suspension is a major piece of the handling puzzle. Race-Tech set out to improve the overall handling and bottoming resistance of the T7. To do that, they went from a .60kg fork spring to a stiffer .70kg spring and installed Gold Valves. The rear shock spring went from 7.28kg to 8.5kg, and the internals received a Gold Valve as well. Lead-acid batteries are becoming dinosaur era technology. The stock battery was ditched in favor of a five-pound lighter lithium-ion polymer Firepower Featherweight battery. The Firepower battery also delivers more cold cranking amps at 240 vs. 190 for stock. The T7 received the Garmin Zumo XT. The screen size is excellent. It has advantages over more offroad-oriented GPS for the street, like turn by turn capability. It has a tracker and is easy to share routes between different devices.

On the first round of modifications, the T7 had Fasst Flexx bars. To change things up a bit, a set of Pro Taper bars with a Windham bend was used. To gain back a fraction of the cushion we lost by removing the Flexx bars, we used Pro Taper clamp-on Pillow Top grips. To offer protection from the elements and provide protection to the controls in a crash or drop, Acerbis X factory full wrap handguards were used. They come in a ton of color options and were pretty easy to install. With the Acerbis handguards, a shorter set of levers was used. We found a generic set of levers designed for the Yamaha MT-07 street bike. They looked cool, but the feel and the pull wasn’t great. Those will be replaced soon. Upshift designs all of their graphics kits in-house, and because the fit is important, they spend a lot of time on designing them. This kit is inspired by the Rally bikes Yamaha fielded in the 80’s. Upshift graphics are printed in the USA on USA sourced materials.

SPRAYING ROOST Good looks only take you so far, then it is time to put out. Well this T7 puts out improved power, offers up great grip and the saddle treats your backside nicely. The exhaust note from the Yoshimura system puts goose bumps on your goose bumps. It doesn’t matter if you are hero, the sound of the T7 will have you thinking you are smashing through the dunes of Dakar. This was Race-Tech’s first go at improving the T7 suspension. Without a baseline to work from, they did a decent job. For the sandy conditions the front end was too soft and the back end was too stiff. We increased compression on the forks and played with settings on the shock, but ultimately, an aftermarket shock with adjustable preload via spring tension might be the answer to better balance set up and fine tuning sag. There is a dial on the stock shock that affects rear end height of the bike, but it isn’t through typical spring preload. Since any change you make to the front suspension affects the rear suspension and vice versa, being able to properly adjust both is very important. We will be working with Race-Tech, trying different spring rates and valving to find a balance of plushness with increased bottoming resistance. The T7 is affordable for a few reasons and one of those is simple suspension. The forks are only 43mm and the internals are fairly basic. The shock is super basic when compared to what is available on other high-end adventure bikes. For most, the stock suspension will border on acceptable with spring rate changes and valving. For most hardcore riders, upgraded suspension components will be a must in order to achieve perfect balance and ultimate bottoming resistance.

I unfortunately dropped the T7 a few times. Nothing fast, all slow speed tip overs, but I was glad the crash bars and full wrap hand guards were installed. The only damage was superficial scrapes and a readjustment of the hand guard. The T7 is much more like a big dirt bike than an adventure bike when compared to big displacement adventure machines. You give a little on the highway for that dirt worthiness, but boy is it worth it if you like to have fun in the dirt. The additions to this T7 make it one hell of a good time, and we will continue to update you as we fine tune the suspension and get the stock components to perform as best as possible. The goal is to squeeze out the best performance without spending gobs of cash. Oh, and the other goal is to make the T7 look wicked fast, even when it is sitting still.

Upshift T7 Rally Blue and Black Graphics Kits available on the Upshift Store Here

Doubletake Adventure Mirrors www.doubletakemirror.com Outback Motortek crash bars and Skid Plate www.outbackmotortek.com Dunlop Tires - D606 Front and D908RR Rear www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com RS-12 Stainless Full Exhaust System www.yoshimura-rd.com Race Tech Suspension www.racetech.com Forks Race Tech Gold Valve Stiffer spring at 70kg 5wt RT Fork Oil. Rear Shock Race Tech Gold Valve Stiffer Spring 8.5kg www.racetech.com 28wt RT shock oil. Galfer Brakes www.galferusa.com Wave rotors front and rear Sintered metal brake pads front and rear Braided stainless brake lines and fittings front and rear Seat Concepts Comfort Low Seat www.seatconcepts.com Firepower Featherweight Battery www.firepowerparts.com Garmin ZUMO XT buy.garmin.com Acerbis X-Factory Handguards www.acerbisusa.com Faast Company Impact Moto Footpegs www.fasstco.com Maxima 10/40 Oil ProPlus/ProFilter Oil Filter www.maximausa.com ProTaper Contour Bars/Windham Bend www.protaper.com ProTaper Clamp On Pillow Top Grips www.protaper.com

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