June 2021
Issue 58
KISKA.COM Photo: R. Schedl
how sandstorms begin
It’s time to adventure even harder. The new KTM 890 ADVENTURE R is here – a true offroad travel specialist. With class-leading handling, rally-like agility, and boosted power and torque figures, you can be sure you’ll never eat dust, except in the sandstorm you create.
FIND OUT MORE AT WWW.KTM.COM Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective safety gear and ride in a responsible manner. The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost. European specification model shown for illustration purposes only.
Ténéré 700. The Next Horizon is yours. YamahaMotorsports.com Professional rider depicted on a closed course. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long sleeves, long pants, gloves and boots. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. ©2020 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved.
ISSUE 58 June 2021
INSTA-ADV June 2021
Instagram Travelers
Issue 58
y information: These drawings contain information y to Upshift. Any reproduction, orCover transmittal of this on without expressed written consent is prohibited by Olivier de Vaulx se partial or complete of the sord marks is prohibited hable to the full extent of the law.
Design Chris Glaspell
LOGO SHEET
THE INSIDER The Horse’s Mouth
BIKES-GEAR
Photography Editor Simon Cudby
The Latest
Contributing Writers Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Michnus Olivier Brett Smith
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Views Through The Lens
Contributing Photographers Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Michnus Olivier Miguel Santana
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Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell Business Development Brandon Glanville
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THE COLOMBIA EXPERIENCE
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Part Two
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husqvarna-motorcycles.com Photo: R. Schedl, KISKA GmbH Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective safety gear and ride in a responsible manner. The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost.
New BRAKTEC brake system New BRAKTEC hydraulic clutch system Revised suspension settings
Ride the perfect line. Out on the trail - it’s just the machine and you, instinctively picking lines as the path reveals itself. Constructed using the latest innovative technology, the FE 350 holds its own on all terrain, making any line the right one.
F E
350
EXPERIENCE THE V-STROM AT
SUZUKICYCLES.COM/ADVENTURE
Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2021 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.
STAY FULLY CONNECTED
Behind a big, bright LED headlight is a large, multifunction instrument panel that displays the information you want on a bright, LCD screen. The adjoining USB power port and mounting bar is ready for your favorite navigation or entertainment accessories.
GO ANYWHERE ADVENTURE PACKAGE
Choose the V-STROM 1050XT Adventure to take the gear you need and ride in comfort with Suzuki’s quick-release, aluminum pannier set, heated handgrips, and a set of LED fog lamps.
RIDE WITH COMFORT & EASE
Ride-by-Wire dual electronic throttle assemblies provide light, precise response for tight roads and trails while the Cruise Control system helps you make short work of long miles. Takeoffs from inclines are a breeze with the Hill Hold Control system.
SUZUKI’S INTELLIGENT RIDE SYSTEM
Tame any road or trail as you tailor the power delivery through the multi-mode Drive Mode Selector and Traction Control* systems, while tuning braking response with the two-level adjustable Motion Track Anti-lock Brake** system.
BIG V-TWIN POWER
The 90-degree, V-Twin engine has more peak power than ever before while maintaining its strong pull off the bottom and superb fuel economy allowing you to go the distance.
The Traction Control System is not a substitute for the rider’s throttle control. It cannot prevent loss of traction due to excessive speed when the rider enters a turn and/or applies the brakes. Neither can it prevent the front wheel from losing grip. **Depending on road surface conditions, such as wet, loose, or uneven roads, braking distance for an ABS-equipped vehicle may be longer than for a vehicle not equipped with ABS. ABS cannot prevent wheel skidding caused by braking while cornering. Please ride carefully and do not overly rely on ABS. Model shown with optional accessories. *
THE HORSE’S MOUTH By Chad de Alva Last year, I made a mistake on the internet. I reposted what I assumed was an official forest closure order from what I thought was a reputable source. But it turns out, the order I reposted had been edited by someone to be much more restrictive than the real order put out by the Forest Service. What followed was a big serving of humble pie, an opportunity to own and learn from a mistake, and a great reminder to always ensure that you are using trustworthy sources for any form of information. We are constantly bombarded with fake or sensationalized information. The fact of the matter is that in our click-through impression-funded digital world, dramatized headlines generate more revenue than the plain, unbiased truth. A headline that says, “This thing could kill you!” will generate much more traffic than a headline that reads “Here’s how this life safety device works” for the same article. The real story is all too often lost in how an article is spun or how the facts are sliced and diced to further an agenda or simply generate more revenue. The point here is simple. You must constantly consider the motivation behind the content you are consuming or sharing. Does someone have something to gain by saying the forest is completely closed to everyone when in fact it is not? Is someone’s job just to generate clicks and impressions even if they’re completely misrepresenting the function of a product, or simply regurgitating another source’s complete misunderstanding? The problem is, that sometimes it’s really easy to spot junk content (like when the commentator can’t even pronounce the name of the company they’re discussing correctly), and sometimes it isn’t. The best way to ferret out the facts is to simply get your information directly from the source, and to always think critically about what you are about to share. Trust takes a long time to build, and a split second to destroy – so make sure that you place your trust in the best possible sources, and likewise, ensure that the information you’re sharing can be trusted too.
2022 BETA 300 XTrainer After months of being stuck indoors, the hunger for freedom has never been stronger. A little off road riding outdoors and in contact with nature is just what everyone needs. Beta USA is happy to present the new 2022 300 XTrainer. The perfect bike for getting back on the trails! The new XTrainer is the link between a play bike and an off road race bike. A versatile all-around model ideal for welcoming younger enthusiasts to the off road riding world, yet also capable of offering more experienced riders enough performance to excite the senses. With features only found in the Xtrainer, no other model can compare making it the number one selling off road play bike for all riders! XTrainer offers many other features including a complete lighting package, plastic skid plate, electric start, strong wheels, and the same brake package found on the larger RR model range. The suspension package is designed to provide a supple ride at slower speeds while still providing the performance needed when the pace ramps up. The engineers at Beta have been working very hard during these trying times and still found the time and passion to improve the Xtrainer for 2022. The new engine, combined with a dedicated new engine control unit map, boasts a smoother and more progressive response to throttle input and more linear power delivery. The bike as a whole is also easier to handle, providing a smoother riding approach. MSRP: 300 Xtrainer $7,999.00 plus $399.00 destination fee. www.betausa.com • Engine: the engine has been completely revised, with an all-new larger bore cylinder, a new piston and a new power valve • Crankshaft: new shorter stroke • Cylinder head: the head is also completely new, and has been redesigned to complement the other new components to perfection • Clutch with diaphragm springs: this solution makes the clutch action lighter, more progressive and more controllable, significantly reducing rider fatigue. Both engagement and disengagement have been improved, while the clutch is now capable of transmitting even more torque. To allow for totally custom set up, three different spring preload settings are available, adjustable with a simple mechanical procedure
B E A T
T H E
H E A T
FOX Legion Downpour Jacket Breathable Waterproof Off-Road and Trail Jacket, Riding in sketchy weather takes a certain kind of confidence—something that comes easily with the Legion Downpour Jacket. Its stretch, seam-sealed fabric mixed with zonal Cordura® fabric allow you to stay dry and protected on the trail. The Legion Downpour Jacket uses our proprietary TruSeal® and TruMotion® fabrics, so you’re protected from the wet while maintaining an excellent range of motion. TruSeal® is truly something special, not only is it waterproof, but it breathes to regulate body temperature and keep perspiration at bay. This is combined with our TruMotion® fabric for a greater range of motion, improved durability, and rapid drying time. To round out the water-busting features, the drop tail design takes care of mud and water splash while in the riding position. MSRP: $299.95 www.foxracing.com Features • TruSeal® 10K/5K waterproof/breathable membrane • DWR treated TruMotion® construction with Cordura® 2 layer fabric • Seam-sealed construction keeps out water and debris • 4-way, stretch zonal fabric provides increased movement and comfort • Water resistant pockets at waist and chest • Pocket at lower back for on bike storage and comfort • Main body and bicep water resistant zipper vents for ventilation and cooling • Reflective trims on bicep for increased visibility • Shock cord cinch system allows for easy hem adjustments
Motion Pro Tuff Hook™ The Motion Pro Tuff Hook has a flexing shaft that is ideal for hard to reach springs with minimal working space. MSRP: $59.99. www.motionpro.com • Heavy-duty design for use on large exhaust and kickstand springs • Multi-function tip easily pulls or pushes large springs on and off mounts • Locking shaft slider allows the center of the shaft to be rigid or flex • A must have for Motorcycle and snow machine exhaust systems • Billet aluminum construction handle and locking shaft slider • Steel shaft with heavy-duty stainless steel flex insert • Lifetime Limited Warranty
With the natural feel of the Human Motion® Hinge & the protection of the Full Coverage Impact Guards, the most comfortable knee brace on the planet will keep your adventure going for longer.
®
podactive.com | human motion
7TH ANNUAL CASELLI MOTODOFFO EVENT PRESENTED BY THE KURT CASELLI FOUNDATION & DOFFO WINERY LOCATION: DOFFO WINERY IN TEMECULA, CA TIME:
GATES OPEN AT 4:00 PM
DETAILS: LIVE MUSIC, GEOFF AARON TRIALS SHOW, FOOD, WINE, BEER, RAFFLES, SILENT AUCTION, LIVE AUCTION & STATE OF ETHOS ART SHOW/GALLERY
TICKETS AVAILABLE AT KURTCASELLI.COM
LEGENDARY GEAR. KSK_21_0003 Kurt Caselli Foundation Moto Dofo Charity Event Flyer_Upshift_Halfpage.indd 2
5/26/21 1:50 PM
B-BASE, M+L ROLIES, ENDURO TANK BAG @ WOLFMANLUGGAGE.COM Upshift Tenere 700 Blue Rally graphics. Photo credit: Simon Cudby
WIDE OPEN
UTAH
PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX
WIDE OPEN
SONORA RALLY - RICKY BRABEC
PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA
WIDE OPEN
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PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
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SONORA RALLY - ANDREW SHORT
PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA
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SONORA RALLY - SKYLER HOWES
PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA
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PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
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PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
ADVENTURE TRANSFORMED
THE BENCHMARK FOR MAXIMUM OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE. Versatile and agile, with a premium specification, the Tiger 900 Rally range delivers incredible off-road capability, with phenomenal power and performance, and a dominant adventure-focused stance for maximum off-road adventure riding and all-road comfort and style. The Tiger 900 Rally and higher specification Rally Pro both feature a lightweight adventure chassis, advanced technology and premium equipment, plus a high capacity 900cc triple engine, delivering impressive torque low down, with overall peak power at 94 HP. Find out more, visit TriumphMotorcycles.com
WIDE OPEN
IDAHO
PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
WIDE OPEN
SONORA RALLY - JOSE CORNEJO
PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA
WIDE OPEN
CALIFORNIA
PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
WIDE OPEN
IDAHO
PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
WIDE OPEN
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PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY
Words: Brett Smith
Photos: Simon Cudby
Munching a Bratwurst with mustard and peppers, I took a long look at the Jeff Stanton Adventures’ van and wondered if my 850 Tiger Sport could fit into the back. I had decided I was done for the day. I concluded that maybe my adventure bike career was over. That is, if 3 hours of riding can be considered a career. But I didn’t say anything and, when the rest of group pulled on helmets and gloves, I did the same. Blame the Bratwurst or not wanting to let Jeff Stanton down but I got back on that Triumph after lunch, gave myself a pep talk and fell in line. Less than a half mile back on the trail, we started up a slick and twisty incline. One rider slid sideways and blocked the path. He didn’t fall but I stopped abruptly to give him space to figure out his escape. I stopped too quickly because Simon Cudby had to veer left to avoid hitting me. His rear tire slipped into a muck-filled rut. We were on a tattered fire road in Western Michigan’s Manistee National Forest, a 540,000acre woodland filled with red pines and glacial drift. A little rain the night before put a nice damper on the dust and gave us endless miles of hero dirt. This particular hill came up unexpected because, aside from a few puddles, we had not seen any real mud all morning. Oddly, this is where it all changed for me. Simon got stuck in an awkward position. Instead of fighting it, he stayed put. So, with my feet down, I lugged up the hill in a slow fishtail, parked, and brought back help. And this is how I found myself yanking on the rear end of a Triumph Tiger 900 alongside one of my childhood heroes, sixtime AMA National Motocross and Supercross champion Jeff Stanton. Like me, he grew up racing motorcycles in Michigan. Davey Coombs of Racer X Illustrated, used the advantage of his long legs to keep the bike on a straight path. Simon, of course, documented for posterity so I can always laugh at this moment.
At the top, we paused to laugh at ourselves, knocked the mud from our boots and continued down the trail. To the other four guys, the snafu probably didn’t hold much significance. But to me, it reminded me that we’re all human. We all get into snares or have trouble getting ‘into the vibe’. Solving those problems is part of the adventure. Back on the trail, I did something I was too afraid to do before lunch: I stood on the pegs, loosened my grip and trusted the bike. I pulled from my nearly four decades of motorcycle riding experience to find a few familiarities and keep up with the group. I’d found my vibe, pulled up the confidence I knew was somewhere down there and maybe, just maybe, finally gave serious consideration to that line my dad loved to use when we raced motocross: “Be one with the bike.” Motorcycling riding – any discipline of it – is a fiercely independent activity. But sometimes your riding buddies help you find your way. That’s what I took away from my first ever adventure riding experience.
PURE MICHIGAN - STANTON STYLE Michigan isn’t a front-of-mind adventure bike destination. But its offroad riding is a hidden gem. The Great Lake State has thousands of miles of energy sapping sand whoop single track trails. One of the longest running enduro races in the country, the legendary Jack Pine, is almost a century old. Imagine Oscar Lenz who, in 1923, logged 800 miles on a Harley-Davidson to win the first event, which is still put on by the Lansing Motorcycle Club. Michigan has strong dual sport and enduro communities with decades of organized stewardship and conservation to maintain and preserve its prized single track riding. But it also has an underrated and unknown network of dirt, gravel and fire roads that link together the rural counties and townships of the largest state east of the Mississippi River. More than half of Michigan’s land area is still forest (30,156 square miles; imagine South Carolina as one giant trail playground). Much of those forests are open for riding and exploring.
X D-4
FLUORESCENT I COVER YELLOW FROST
THE ARAI DIFFERENCE: GLANCING OFF At Arai, protecting the rider is the single most important element in any helmet they produce. The kinetic energy generated by a crash can be avoided or minimized by glancing off objects. Glancing off is the ability to avoid sending energy directly into the helmet and Arai believes this is one of the most important performance characteristics of a helmet. Protect what is priceless. No helmet can protect the wearer against all foreseeable impacts. Nothing is a substitute for safe riding practices. ©2021 Arai Helmet
And Jeff Stanton wants to show it to you. The lifelong Michigander fought wars on the racetracks in the 1980s and 1990s and retired in 1994 at the young age of 26. A humble hard worker, after racing he poured his energy into the family and farm, raised deer and opened a wedding venue business. Now in his early 50s, he wants to share his skills, experience and love for riding with people who enjoy motorcycles as much as he does. Jeff Stanton Adventures is an exclusive and curated experience. He keeps the groups small (five riders, max), matches abilities and offers tours in the months of May, August, September and October. He wants to show why his state’s tagline is ‘Pure Michigan’, especially in the autumn when the fall colors easily rival New England’s. Although he has a line of current Triumph Tigers, he’s not an adventure-bike-only outfit. He’ll pound sand whoops with you on a dual sport (or you can bring your own bike). “I’m here to make your trip the ultimate adventure so you go home and tell all your buddies, ‘You gotta do this’,” he says. “It’s about having fun, making people happy and spreading the word.” Stanton has key spots and features he wants to show you on his three and five day itineraries, but every trip can be customized, including the routes, loops and destinations. There are even alternative activities like charter fishing on Lake Michigan or sport shooting at the Two Hats Ranch hunting lodge that serves as home base for the trip.
F I N A L
V I B E S
It’s a chilly 43 degrees on the morning of day two and Stanton pulled the early 90s era Sinisalo SCD Air motocross gloves from his dinner plate-sized hands. He placed them on the gas tank during a stop and I contemplated my own manhood as I looked at the winter riding gloves I wore, which were so thick I could barely find the levers. I chuckled for noticing this odd detail about the gloves. Then I looked around and spun in a circle. We were alone, the five of us, scattered in the intersection of a forest service and county dirt road. We made no effort to get out of the way because, well, nobody ever came or went. After two days and 300 miles of riding we didn’t see another motorcycle on the trails. Not one. But the surrounding residents and communities love motorcyclists. Every farmer or citizen we passed offered a smile and a wave. Even on the remote dirt roads, yard signs reading “Look out for motorcycles” were as popular as leftover election campaign signs. I love that my first adventure ride came in the same state where I learned to twist throttles on a yellow Yamaha PW50. At the end of the trip I felt like I tasted a little of everything; we hit a variety of surfaces, climbed hills, rode single track, two track, dirt, gravel and paved roads and even tested the stock Showa suspension through sand whoops, perhaps because I wanted a taste of what it felt like for Oscar Lenz. And I’ll never forget about the stretch of mud that changed my entire attitude about adventure riding. Who knew that getting stuck in the mud could be so fun?
Tours begin in Big Rapids, MI 3-day tours start at $2,550 5-day tours start at $4,750 Prices include guide, bike, food and lodging Max group size: 5 riders Additional activities include, skeet shooting, charter fishing, hunting, mountain biking Customized itineraries available. www.jeffstantonadventures.com Phone: 616-218-5800
PROTECTION LEVEL
100% OUTBACK MOTORTEK CRASH BARS
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OUTBACK MOTORTEK SKID PLATE
TENERE 700
Thanks to Pol Tarres and Trece Racing Society for choosing our Yamaha Tenere 700 armour.
PRECISION+PASSION Crash Bars • Skid Plates • Center Stands Pannier Racks • Rear Luggage Racks
www.outbackmotortek.com
PEAC MAXIMA’S EXCLUSIVE ADDITIVE SYSTEM
PEAC additive system was developed by Maxima and tested with factory teams like Monster Energy Kawasaki, Monster Energy Pro Circuit Kawasaki and Geico Factory Connection Honda. PEAC was designed to significantly improve performance in several critical areas: engine cleanliness, clutch performance, power & acceleration. This unique additive system is exclusive to the Maxima 4-stroke engine oil line-up.
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!
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Maxima 4-stroke engine oils meet or exceed the requirements set forth in your motorcycle owners manual. For use in all motorcycle brands: Husqvarna, KTM, BMW, Triumph, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki, GasGas and more. Guaranteed by Maxima Racing Oils / Made in the USA / MaximaUSA.com
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Utah Overlanding With T he Tenere 700 With COVID putting a halt to most international travel in 2020, we decided to do a last minute trip in Utah to test the ability of the Tenere 700 to carry enough stuff for some serious overlanding. However, the term overlanding, usually associated with a big 4x4 loaded with tents, showers, portable kitchen, and all the tools to survive alone in the wild for a month, didn’t seem to fit with our lightweight dual-sport, not even equipped with panniers!
Packing Light When it comes to motorcycle travels, the less the better. Packing light is key, and we took advice from sailors when it came time to select the items and gear we would bring with us: “Pack your bag with as little things as you can, and when finished, divide the content by two. Then you should be about right.” Installing the MoskoMoto Reckless 40L on the Tenere takes about 1 minute. Deciding how to fit enough food, tools, clothes, camping gear for a 3-5 day trip is another story. The trip started in the garage, with a few hours of back and forth between the bags and the closets. The addition of a duffle bag on top of the Reckless was mandatory, and we ended up fitting everything we thought we would ever need… and a little more. We carried tire irons, spare heavy duty tubes, sealant, and air cartridges in case of puncture; all the necessary tools, bolts and nuts, including a chain breaker and master links, all packed in a Mosko tool bag. Spare socks, underwear, beanies, tent and sleeping bag, snacks for 4 days and a few water bottles. Austin also took a camping chair and thought about head lamps, the later being a smart last-minute addition to our camping arsenal. Once the duffle bags were secured on the seat using the extra straps of the Reckless, the Tenere 700 looked the part and made us feel like we were ready to go around the world. The last part of the preparation was to upload the GPX track in our Voyager Pro, the red arrow on the touch screen being in charge of guiding us through the most diverse sceneries available in Utah in a minimum amount of time.
Mineral Utah After a quick stop at Fasst Company, in Washington, UT, to have a pair of Impact footpegs installed, we started our journey toward the heart of Utah. It didn’t take long after leaving town to find some good sandy tracks, the perfect opportunity to check the balance of our loaded bikes. The combo Dunlop D908/EN91coupled with the stable geometry of the Tenere made cruising through these sections a breeze. Coming up was a steep rocky trail, that required us to keep momentum and balance at low speed while the front wheel was constantly aiming to the sky. Not accustomed yet to the Tenere, Austin pushed his duty as far as crashing before the top, proving the point that bringing soft bags was a wise option, as they protected both the bike and the rider’s leg. We finally reached the ridge of the mountain, our shoulders sore and the jackets soaked with sweat. Still, the view from the summit was worth the effort! The trails then headed to a coast plain, where the riding was pleasant if it wasn’t for some fence blocking the way for miles. That’s when you see the difference between the route planned on a computer and the real world. Getting late, we reached the mineral paradise of Grand Staircase Escalante just before sunset. The golden light was painting the rocks with delicate shades of orange and purple, while the sky was turning pink. The last miles to Alstrom Point were done by night, on a sandy double track that made us think about amateur riders trying to finish a stage on the Dakar Rally. It was slow but fun, and we managed to somehow avoid jumping off the cliff when we reached the vista point over the lake. In this pitch dark night, we still had to install our camp. This meant unpacking and unfolding the tents, figuring out how to insert the foldable poles in the fabric, then inflating the mattresses. Thanks to the aforementioned head lamps, it was only a matter of minutes before we could sit, me on the ground and Austin on his comfy chair, and admire the perfect Milky Way above our heads.
Floral Utah In the morning, after a chilly but not too uncomfortable night, we realized that our reserve of water was dangerously low. With eighty miles to the next town and the sun rising quickly, it was almost a problem, until we met good samaritans in a Subaru who happily shared a bit of their 20 gallons. It was then with a light heart that we enjoyed the view of the sunrise from the cliff, in an incredible gradient of orange light over the turquoise water of Lake Powell. Racing through the sandy tracks that we had done slowly the night before, we crossed the second half of Grand Staircase up to Boulder. In this half day, we encountered many more different landscapes than we could describe. From canyons to mountains, from desert to forest, from sand to rocks, from slow and technical trails to super fast dirt roads, we discovered an incredible diversity of terrain and sceneries.
We enjoyed it so much that we almost forgot our goal for the second part of the trip: finding the few spots where we could enjoy the fall colors. After Boulder, we headed toward Hell’s Backbone road. Once in a while, a bright yellow tree was illuminating the forest, but it was overall very green. Not ready to give up on our dream of a colorful palette, we settled for the night on a river bank. Setting up the tents was easier with still a bit of daylight remaining, and by the time the Milky Way was in full display, we were ready, with full stomachs, warm beanies and a Canon EOS perfectly set up. With no clouds in sight, the starry night was once again magnificent, and more than compensated for the dropping temperatures. In the morning, the miracle happened. It was just a few miles before we found the autumn colors we were looking for. Along the river we elected as an improvised campground, bursts of fall foliage were paint-brushing the forest with splashes of red, orange and yellow. It was almost impossible not to stop every 2 minutes to snap a picture or just take in the scenery, enjoying these cascades of colors. Having been quite jealous of the pictures posted by east coast riders every fall, we felt avenged. With so much time spent in awe in front of these natural paintings, we were running late and had to take a stretch of pavement to finish our loop before the night. That’s another strong point of these adventure bikes, as they can swallow highway with ease, letting their riders enjoy the red rocks of the Utah mountains as the miles add up.
Mission Accomplished After 562 miles of dirt roads, single tracks, double tracks, rocks and sand, night and day riding, the two Tenere 700s were dusty but ready to take more. Even without the addition of panniers or gigantic bags, we were able to handle an expedition including off-the bike camping with no problem - except for the part where we almost ran out of water in the desert. Never did we use our tools, the heaviest part of our equipment, and even Austin agreed - quite reluctantly - that the camping chair might have been overkill. Our minimal luggage proved to be sufficient and we felt empowered by a huge sense of accomplishment, even if the trip itself was quite small compared to other adventures I have done on the Tenere (see Upshift issue 50 about the Continental Divide). On the way back to Southern California, we made plans to go back on other camping expeditions, with the goal of packing even less stuff… and to log more miles!
208-417-1726 I SEATCONCEPTS.COM
TECH
BY CHAD DE ALVA
In December of 2019, I found myself surrounded by a group of motorcycle journalists who were all grinning eagerly at me in anticipation of what was about to happen. Smartphones were in hand, ready to record what the new Klim product I had volunteered to try would do in less than 60 milliseconds after a button was tapped. From behind me, the man holding the control tablet started counting down, and I heard multiple phones making sounds to indicate that they were now recording video. I quickly said: “Don’t give me a countdown! Surprise me.” The countdown stopped. I tried to relax, despite the audience and the inevitable certainty of what was about to happen. Then, without warning, the Klim Ai-1 airbag vest triggered with a pop – and I got to experience a wearable airbag deployment. Wearable airbags are game changing pieces of kit that have the potential to significantly improve the outcome for the wearer in the event of a crash. This explains why they are becoming required safety gear in a number of sports from Moto GP to downhill ski racing. A wearable airbag works on the same concept as the airbags in a car: A system is constantly analyzing input from a number of sensors to detect a crash. Once the system is certain there is a crash happening, it inflates an airbag that provides additional impact protection to the wearer, just like the airbags in a car provide the occupants additional protection. Klim’s Ai-1 uses a single airbag that protects the wearer’s back, goes up and over the shoulders where it helps stabilize the neck, and down the front of the wearer’s torso. All of this protection fits into a very well ventilated vest that’s easy to integrate with almost any riding gear system. A complete Ai-1 airbag vest is composed of three parts: First is the actual vest, which is made by Klim following their usual recipe of top shelf materials and quality construction. On the back of the vest you’ll find a CE level 1 back protector that houses the other two parts of the system. The first of these two parts is the In&Box, which is the brain of the airbag system that is made by the French company In&Motion. Under the socket for the In&Box, you’ll find the cutout for the single-use Argon gas canister that is used to inflate the airbag.
Using the Ai-1 airbag vest is easy: Charge the In&Box with a micro USB cable, pop it into the socket on the back of the Ai-1, and turn it on by double pressing the only button on the In&Box. Now check the companion Android or iOS app to make sure everything is armed, charged, updated, pick your ride mode, and you’re good to go. In&Motion currently supports two ride modes for the In&Box: Street and Adventure. Street is for on-road use, not track use. Adventure is for dirt roads, doubletrack, and the like. It’s important to switch between modes as you change riding surfaces so that the system can perform properly and do the best job possible of detecting a crash. The Ai-1 integrates easily with any riding gear system – simply pull the back protector out of your existing riding jacket, and you’re good to go. I’ve worn the Ai-1 with riding jackets ranging from lightweight shells and mesh jackets, to Klim’s own Badlands Pro, and the Ai-1 just feels like a slightly thicker back protector. Wearing a heavy backpack over the Ai-1 and a jacket will feel different, as the Ai-1 does not conform to your body like a D30 back protector. This isn’t a problem, just something that takes a bit of getting used to when you’re riding in familiar gear. The Ai-1 will keep your core a little warmer as well – the vest is impressively well vented, but you’ll find that your back is a notch more toasty. I’d recommend using something like a Klim Aggressor -1.0 base layer when it’s warm out. In&Motion has been developing wearable airbags for a number of years, and the In&Box is their smart control module responsible for detecting and deploying an airbag. 1000 times a second, the In&Box analyzes data from accelerometers, gyroscopes, and GPS to detect a crash, so know that this thing is orders of magnitude more sophisticated than a ripcord. In&Motion is constantly developing the control algorithms for the In&Box, partly by using an ever-expanding database of rider data that currently has more than 20,000,000 miles ridden, and more than 500 accidents where an airbag was used. In&Motion does collect user ride data, but it’s encrypted and anonymized, so there’s no chance of your exploits on your favorite twisty road getting shared big-brother style with the law. Your riding data is simply helping develop the detection algorithms, and you can opt out of this data sharing if you choose. The In&Box has an integrated battery that is advertised to power the system for 25 hours, and you can always check your battery state by using the Andorid or iOS app. From within the app you can also check the system’s status, update firmware, and manage subscriptions. Purchasing the Ai-1 system can be done in one of several ways. The stand alone vest costs $399 and includes one gas cartridge, which is good for one airbag deployment. Additional gas cartridges are $99 each. The In&Box can be purchased in a couple of ways. One option is to buy the In&Box outright for an additional $399. (All in cost = $798 + taxes.) This would be just like writing a check to buy a new helmet or a motorcycle. Alternatively, you can lease the In&Box and make payments annually or monthly. This offers a couple of benefits over outright purchase: The warranty is unlimited on the In&Box and you will receive new generations of hardware (new versions of the physical In&Box) for no additional charge. The obvious downside here is that you are tied to a subscription plan and your long-run financial outlay will be greater. After making three years of annual payments, or 36 monthly payments, you are eligible to buy the In&Box outright for $99. You do not have to buy the In&Box at this point. (Total cost for In&Box with monthly payments = $531 + taxes. All in cost = $930 + taxes. Total cost for In&Box with annual payments = $459 + taxes. All in cost = $858 + taxes.) You can continue to make payments and In&Motion will provide you with a new In&Box of the latest generation.
But wait there’s more. If you are the type of person who does not ride year round, you can use a monthly subscription, and take advantage of up to a four-month subscription pause, once every twelve months. For $4 a month, you can pause your In&Box subscription, which deactivates your In&Box. This option is for riders who don’t ride in the winter months, for example. Payments made during this pause will not count toward your 36 month requirement for outright purchase eligibility. If you need to hit pause for a longer period of time, you can simply send your In&Box back to In&Motion, and you will not have to make any payments while you are on pause. When you want to start up service again, In&Motion USA will send you back an In&Box. Lastly, Adventure mode is an add-on subscription that costs $25 / year when billed annually, or $8 a month. If these payment options seem overly complex, know that In&Motion has continually stated that this is done in the name of reducing the barrier to entry for riders who can’t drop $800 in one shot. The idea here is simply to make it more affordable for folks to get into a powerful piece of safety gear. I can respect that – but I can also understand that being tied to one more subscription is not appealing to some folks. If that’s you, I would suggest that you just buy the In&Box outright. Buy now, cry now, and then ride protected. I have confirmed directly from In&Motion that all current generation In&Boxes will continue to be supported after a new In&Box version comes out – but please remember that statement is true as of the time of publishing. Regardless of how you pay for your In&Box, there are a few truths about how this system works that need to be emphasized, in light of the bush-league, clickbait coverage that the Ai-1 has received recently from a number of non endemic websites like VICE News. Just like your cell phone won’t work if you stop paying your phone bill, or anything you finance will get taken away if you stop making payments, your In&Box won’t work if you don’t pay for it if you have chosen a subscription plan. The system clearly communicates this to you in multiple ways, and if you fail to make payments, ignore all of the warnings, and choose to ride with a system that is clearly indicating that it is not going to work, and bad things happen – that’s on you. It’s called personal responsibility, and that seems to be a concept that a number of tech and so-called news websites fail to understand. A responsible adult should have zero issues with paying for and using this product and its associated services. If you have any questions on how any element of this system works, I’ve found that the real live humans at In&Motion USA’s customer service are easy to get a hold of, knowledgeable, and helpful. Despite what you may have read elsewhere, In&Motion will NOT turn your In&Box off on you mid ride. Rant over.
ADV A/C E P I C A I R F LOW R OA D - R E A DY P R OT E C T I O N O F F- R OA D M O B I L I T Y B A JA S4 JAC K E T & PA N T F3 C A R B O N H E L M E T VIPER PRO GOGGLES B A JA S4 G LOV E S
# K L IML IF E
K L I M .C O M
So what’s it like to have an Ai-1 airbag deploy? It’s definitely an experience. The first thing you are aware of is the pop of the gas canister discharging – and it’s loud. This is followed instantly by the strong bear-hug embrace of the airbag all over your torso. Watching a video of the airbag deploying on myself is almost comical in how slow my torso tenses in response to the deployed airbag. I also need to point out that I didn’t have a riding jacket on when this happened, but another journalist did – and she experienced an even stronger bear hug. Know that while the airbag deploys with enough force to protect your body, it’s not going to break your bones when it deploys. Klim’s Ai-1 airbag vest is a game changing piece of motorcycle safety apparel. It is easy to integrate into your current riding setup, and you will most likely forget it’s there until you need it most. Then, in those slow seconds where you’re falling, waiting for the impact from a crash, you’ll hear a loud pop and feel the embrace of the airbag – and I have to imagine that will be the best possible thing that you could experience in that moment before impact. The Ai-1 has been proven to improve crash outcomes, which means that riders will suffer reduced injuries from crashes that would have otherwise been more serious, or possibly fatal without an airbag. Klim’s Ai-1 airbag vest is probably the greatest step forward for rider protection since the invention of the helmet. You can check out Klim’s Ai-1 airbag vest at www.klim.com
OVERLANDER-S
NEW OS-BASE KTM 1050/1090/1190 ADVENTURE + 1290 SUPER ADVENTURE An 'over the seat harness' which allows OS-6, OS-12 or OS-18 ADVENTURE PACKS to be mounted as soft panniers. No additional frames or rear rack are required, this system provides a super-tough, waterproof, lightweight carrying solution specifically designed to fit KTM Adventure bikes with no drilling or permanent bodywork alterations to the bike. EQUIPMENT ILLUSTRATED: • 2 x OS-18 ADVENTURE PACKS mounted on OS-BASE • Bash plate / Crash bars by Outback-Motortek
KRIEGA.US
#RIDEKRIEGA
Ride over, under, or through obstacles not around them!
Stay On The Trail
www.coloradotpa.org
The Trails Preservation Alliance (TPA) is a 501(c)(3) non-profit Colorado based off-highway motorcycle advocacy organization. The TPA works with various land management agencies to ensure fair and equitable access for the sport of motorcycle riding.
TESTED
BY CHAD DE ALVA
Rottweiler PERFORMANCE PARTS - KTm 790/890 ADVENTURE R Rottweiler Performance makes bespoke motorcycle parts, products that help the owners of modern bikes tweak the characteristics of these bikes to better suit their needs. Some of Rottweiler’s parts address OEM designs and the restrictions that OEMs have to play within to pass federal requirements. Other parts add additional protection, enhance durability, or make working on your bike easier and less likely to require a trip to the parts counter. Yet Rottweiler is probably best known for their parts that make bikes bark – their performance parts. KTM’s 790 and now 890 platform is one of the most popular ADV bikes on the market today. Rottweiler Performance has developed a full line of parts for these bikes that provide value to customers ranging from those just getting started in this ADV thing, to riders who are putting together a “money is no object” ultimate ADV machine. Each and every one of Rottweiler’s parts is purposefully developed to fulfill a particular role. Parts are well thought out and well made, so you won’t find any “me too” parts in their catalog. The company comes from an extensive background in racing – and those roots are evident in their development process today. From extensive use of a dyno to working with the best suppliers for components not manufactured in house, everything Rottweiler does is in the name of making quality parts that work as advertised. The following is a selection of Rottweiler Performance parts that have improved life with a KTM 790 Adventure R.
POWER PLATE If you add only one aftermarket part to your 7/890, add the Rottweiler Performance Power Plate. Even with the OEM oiled filter, there have been a number of cases where riders have found that dust has made it past the stock filter. The Power Plate replaces the stock intake snorkels with a shield wall of oiled filter media that completely protects the OEM filter, and therefore your engine from exposure to dust. Depending on the type of riding you do, you can select from three different types of foam filter media, so whether you are riding sweep in a big squad and riding in all of the dust, or hunting apexes on your favorite canyon two-lane road, there’s an insert suited to your type of riding. The best part is that carrying spare pre-oiled filters is easy to do, so as soon as you get one dirty, you can swap in a clean spare. Since I’ve been using the Power Plate, I haven’t seen so much as a speck of dust on my OEM oiled filter – and I’m stoked not to have to battle the OEM filter retaining system. The Power Plate is simple, easy to use, and effective protection for your bike. REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER GUARD The master cylinder on the 7/890 is protected behind a plastic guard that does a decent job protecting the actual master cylinder, but the elbow that connects the master cylinder to the reservoir is fully exposed. All it would take is an errant kick from a boot, or that one perfect rock, stick, or other trail hazard and all of the bike’s rear brake fluid is gone. Eliminating this threat to your bike is as easy as removing two screws that hold the factory guard in place, and installing the Rottweiler Performance Rear Brake Master Cylinder Guard. FUEL SPIGOT One of the reasons the 7/890 handles so well is due to the way that the bike carries fuel. Thanks to the fancy fuel tank that wraps around the bike, the center of mass is lower, but the downside to this tank design is that the fuel pump and its accoutrements have been shifted lower as well. In factory trim, the OEM fuel spigot is only protected by a thin plastic skid plate, where it’s only one drop on a rock away from potential damage.
TES TED: Rot t weiler PERFORMANCE PAR T S - K Tm 790/890 ADVENTURE R Rottweiler’s billet fuel spigot replaces the OEM plastic spigot with something that’s much stronger – so should you smack your plastic side protector with enough force to communicate the impact to your fuel spigot, it will be less likely to break. Installation is easy, and I appreciate the fact that Rottweiler Performance has created quality directions for this part and all of the other parts covered in this article. Sure, many riders out there will not need the directions, but for those that want them, Rottweiler has done a great job making a set of instructions that will see even an inexperienced wrench to success. Furthermore, the fuel spigot comes with two types of fuel line clamps so you can keep things OEM with an Oetker clamp if you have the right tool, or you can use a hose clamp if that’s more your speed. FUEL PUMP GUARD Machined from a single block of Aluminum, Rottweiler’s Fuel Pump guard will round out your bike’s fuel system protection by shielding your fuel pump and spigot. This guard is designed to work with both OEM and aftermarket skid-plates, so you don’t need to sweat parts compatibility here. Attention to detail on this part is awesome. Rottweiler included a cutout to make accessing the electrical connection for the fuel pump easy, and they include an extra screw to make it so you only need one size driver to remove your fuel pump. I appreciate the effort to standardize fasteners here. Installation is easiest with an as close to empty fuel tank is possible. The whole process takes just a few minutes to add another serving of peace of mind to your bike. FUEL LINE CONVERSION KIT One of the most common reasons I hear for riders not maintaining their bikes is that some maintenance tasks are just too much of a pain in the butt – so said maintenance never gets done. Rottweiler’s Fuel Line Conversion Kit is one of those products that makes working on a 7/890 that much easier, and it’s also a great way to add a measure of protection to your bike’s fuel injection system. Again, KTM’s fancy fuel tank is to blame here, and the process of getting the fuel line disconnected from the bike in order to remove the tank can be a bit of a project for riders who aren’t careful or patient. The stock disconnect is tucked in a harder to reach spot and fishing the fuel line along the side of the engine can also be a chore when you go to install the tank again. The Rottweiler Performance Fuel Line Conversion Kit replaces a section of the stock line and moves the disconnect much closer to the fuel pump, so it’s easer to reach. You can also opt for adding an additional fuel filter, which is a no brainer as a clogged injector is NOT something that’s easily fixed in the field. This kit prevents you from having to use the scary OEM plastic disconnect, and instead replaces it with an easy to use metal CPC-style connector. If you know you’re going to pull your tank, grab one of these kits – that way you’ll have to deal with the stock fuel line exactly one time. HEADLIGHT BRACE For the riders out there who are really going to push their 7/890s hard off-road, Rottweiler Performance makes a brace for the factory headlight that can help better distribute the load of the headlight over the bike’s frame. In OEM trim, part of the headlight mounts to the front of the bike’s steering tube with four screws that run through the headlight assembly and into four bosses on the frame. According to the internet, these bosses have been known to fail – which is precisely why this product exists.
TESTED: Rot tweiler PERFORMANCE PARTS - K Tm 790/890 ADVENTURE R The headlight brace helps distribute the load the stock headlight places on these four mounts by tying the top two mounts into additional mounting points. By using precision rod ends that tie into mounting tabs further back on the bike’s frame where the other headlight braces mount, you can snug up these rod ends to pull tension on the headlight mounts and distribute the load - just like an Equalizer hitch does for a trailer. Installing the Headlight Brace is more involved, but as with every other Rottweiler product covered here, there are great instructions and a video to consult if you need help along the way. The Headlight Brace comes with an option on the type of frame grounding screws you can use, so again you can pick the fastener that works best for you. RALLY AND PRO EDITION INTAKE I saved the coolest part for last. This wouldn’t be a Rottweiler Performance article without talking about an intake, and the system developed for the 7/890 is truly an impressive product. The Rally Edition of the intake is an all-carbon system that is available in either a matte or gloss finish that just exudes performance when you hold it in your hands. Yet this intake does so much more than just look killer – it adds an impressive nine horsepower to the rear wheel at 6300 RPM. The dyno chart for a bike with the Rally intake and no other modifications shows an increase in power throughout the RPM range. There is a considerable increase in under area under the curve over stock, meaning this intake makes a real difference in performance. Yet my favorite part of the intake is how well it protects your engine.
TESTED: Rot tweiler PERFORMANCE PARTS - K Tm 790/890 ADVENTURE R By completely replacing the OEM intake tract, Rottweiler Performance was able to completely ditch the <insert your favorite adjective here> OEM filter and replace it with a massive Twin Air unit. This filter is easy to service, easy to install (and verify that it is installed correctly), and it has considerably more surface area than the OEM oiled filter. This is the ultimate solution for the 7/890 intake. You get great looks, a huge performance boost, and you can ride through all of the dust without worrying if any of it is going to make it into your motor. I’m not aware of a single product that adds more performance and critical bike protection than this intake system. For riders who want all of these benefits at a more affordable price point, Rottweiler Performance also manufactures an injection molded version of their intake. The Pro edition 7/890 intake offers all of the same benefits with respect to performance and protection gains, the only difference is that the plastic intake body isn’t as light as the carbon fiber version. That’s the trade off to hit the price point. With either version of the intake, you can’t go wrong. You’re getting serious power gains, and orders of magnitude better filtration for you bike, and that alone makes either of these intake systems worth every penny. Rottweiler Performance has built a reputation for making top shelf products that enhance the attributes of many of today’s best bikes. Their parts are well thought out, well made, and packed with attention to detail. I especially appreciate the little things they do, like options for fasteners, quality directions, and product videos. These little extra things help customers spend less time trying to get their parts installed, which means that they can spend more time riding. Rottweiler’s offering of products for the 7/890 extends beyond what has been covered in this article, and the company is also a dealer for a number of other brands that all make quality products. From exhausts, to rally parts like Rebel X fairings, to electronics, to ergonomic parts, Rottweiler Performance has a great selection of parts that can help make your bike exactly what you want it to be. www.rottweilerperformance.com
DUALSPORT Ride Hard
Photos: Simon Cudby, Olivier de Vaulx Words: Olivier de Vaulx
THE FORGOTTEN CALIFORNIA Mention California to one of your fellow rider friends and you can be sure to hear the conversation drift toward desert riding, with the words sand, dunes, whoops, rocks, jumps, speed, and heat being the most recurrent. Sure, Southern California offers plenty of sunny rides for its residents. Still, one would have to be blind to sum up the Golden State’s geographical diversity to a desert rat’s heaven. On the Northern end of the state, the mountains and forests of the Lost Sierra sculpt a totally different landscape. Famous for its ski resorts and marinas, the infamous Lake Tahoe is usually packed with Bay Area residents drawn to some quick and expensive weekend adventure. But the locals know better. A few valleys higher up north, there are no more fancy hotels, and tourists are replaced by authentic nature lovers. About 15 old towns survive there. Their mining glory is long forgotten and now offers riders some accommodation during their single track quest. Downieville is well known by the MTB enthusiasts, but who knew that most of the trails in the area are funded with OHV green sticker money?
Greg Williams is one of the few local riders to enjoy the unexploited potential of these mountains. Not one to keep such a treasure to himself, he published the Sierra Buttes Trail Stewardship website. This non-profit organization builds and maintains multi-use trails in the Sierra Buttes, Tahoe, Plumas, and Lassen National Forests and has over the years found a way to use the OHV money to develop a solid trail system. In a world where hikers, mountain bikers, and motorized travelers are often at odds about trail usage, connected communities decided to build the “Lost Sierra Route.” This master plan proposes building more than 300 miles of tracks within these wild and mountainous regions and opening it to everybody, whether on foot, bicycles, or on adventure bikes. Even if this route is not finished yet, a quick look at the waterproof paper map sold on Sierra Trails’ online store to help maintain the trails shows that there’s already something for everyone: from the downhill addict on a carbon fiber MTB to the adventure rider on a big twin-engine, the possibilities seem indeed endless and include enough single track to give an overdose to the most hardcore motorcycle rider. Being men of little faith when it comes to the promise of great rides, we took Greg on his word, and our crew drove all the way from Boise, ID, and Southern California to check out this trail system. After a day’s drive, parking in front of a small cottage under the trees near downtown Graeagle, we enjoyed a chill but quiet evening. In the morning, we barely had time to hit the pavement and warm up our Austrian dual-sport motorcycles before being put under the pressure of any stressful situation. We could see trails entering the forest everywhere we looked, all of them trying to lure us with seemingly perfect dirt. The maps and GPS tracks are almost useless in this condition, as we wanted to try them all! We finally set out to go explore the area around Gold Lake.
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Thanks to the previous day’s rain and a thin layer of pine needles, we enjoyed soft dirt with perfect traction. Using the endless torque of our 4-strokes, we drew nice curves on each corner’s exit with our knobbies, having fun without taking much risk. Yet, we had to stop pretty soon, as significant patches of snow slowed down our glorious ascension to the summit. It was hard to believe that we were in California in late May and still had to deal with snow! For Cameron Falconer, a local and very experienced rider, the problem is more in the limited amount of snow we were seeing: “There’s not enough snow at this time of the year to prevent wildfire later this summer.” Well, that’s not good news, but we still played with what we had: the white layer was hard enough to let us literally surf on the surface, laughing out loud under our helmets, white snowflakes falling from the sky just added to the magical atmosphere. Around the lake, the trails got rockier, and we enjoyed the supreme comfort of our WP XPlor suspension on the technical bits. Our bikes were so agile and easy to ride that we reached the summit over the lake without sweating and still with plenty of energy to explore the surrounding areas.
Every corner or so, we discovered another piece of history, here a tiny abandoned cabin, a bridge over a waterfall. The hours went by, and we had to return to camp. Finding dinner is not as easy as finding a single good trail in these parts because most businesses close early. We still managed to find an open restaurant and got a welcomed refill of proteins and carbs. As we sat at the table, astonished not only by the number of trails we discovered but also by the large number of single tracks we didn’t explore, the dimensions of our new playground started to sink into our brains. There was no way we could discover everything the area has to offer in a month, let alone a weekend! The second day was dedicated to a more adv-oriented ride, with flowy two-track and the occasional patch of snow. The ride was pretty easy. Sure, it would have been a little more challenging with a big twin, but who said you had to come here in Spring?
We went through this area during the Pacific Divide ride (see Upshift issue #27) and rode nothing but hard-packed and dusty trails, with no snow in sight. Compared to other states like Montana, we were amazed that most of the logs blocking the trails were already cut. We even encountered a couple of riders from Southern California who came up to clear trails with their chainsaws and hand saws fixed on their KTMs! After an exhilarating ride through the hundreds of corners on La Porte paved road, late lunch in downtown Quincy, CA left us with the same feeling as the day before: we needed more time to thoroughly explore these mountains!
With a website offering paper maps but no color-rating system, it’s easy to understand why these valleys might be the most underrated off-road paradise of California. Between the challenging singletracks over in Downieville and the flowy ones around Quincy, there’s enough variation for everybody! The 9-hour drive from Southern California or the three hours commuting from the Bay Area is worth every minute. COVID might have prevented Greg and his friends from scheduling events in the past year, but the community of local riders is eager to share their trails with newcomers, and have a surprisingly welcoming attitude that Cameron explains as a two-edged sword kind of choice: “We need the tourists to help these small towns to survive. But we don’t want to get the kind of crowd that gathers in the ski resorts around Lake Tahoe. That’s why we have this trail system with no color rating. We don’t want to make it too easy and want to avoid the side-by-sides who transform singletracks into two-tracks!” Indeed, the trails are awesome and well worth the drive. In that case, one will have to be autonomous to survive any incident in these regions: the gas stations are sparse and not always open, motorcycle shops almost nonexistent, and the hospitals hours away. But that’s the price one has to be willing to pay for getting a true adventure or enduro experience without leaving the borders of the most populated state of America. We wouldn’t want it any different, and neither would Greg and his friends. As for us, we can’t wait to come back and explore more: 2021 is just getting even better!
More info: https://sierratrails.org Greg Williams, Executive Director Sierra Buttes Trail Stewardship (530) 613-2847
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10 Y E A RS • 1O ROU T E S • 10,000 MIL E S OF A DVEN T URE
FOLLOW A DECADE-LONG JOURNEY OF THE BDR ORGANIZATION FROM ITS RAGTAG BEGINNINGS TO BECOMING A WELL-RESPECTED NAME IN THE ADVENTURE MOTORCYCLE COMMUNITY
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BY MICHNUS OLIVIER
www.pikipikioverland.com
PART TWO
Just outside the small village of Filandia, situated on the west side of Cordillera Central of the Andes mountain range, we ended up at a new motorcycle overlanders hostel, Steelhorse Farm. The hostel was started by a British couple who rode around South America and fell in love with Colombia. This became our home away from home, and the time spent there allowed us to research new tracks and must-see places on our way through the rest of Colombia. It was the perfect place to rest for a few days and to do outrides to small villages
THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE
in the area. One of them, Salento, is a pretty little town with the most beautiful wooden houses and buildings all painted in bright colors. Bars and restaurants line the streets around the bustling, noisy center plaza. The area is also home to gigantic wax palms in the valley called Valley de Cocora at an altitude of 2000 meters. These types of palm trees can grow up to a height of 60 meters (200 ft), live for about 100 years, and are recognized as the national tree of Colombia. It is best to stay over for a few days and hike around the forest. Hidden in the dense foliage of the cloud forest are many treasures. Birds and yellow-eared parrots hold operettas from high above, a sweet reminder of the wildlife that surrounds you. We also have to mention the abundance of little sugar birds or Colibri’s, buzzing away to collect nectar. The entire coffee region, in central Colombia, is a lush green area with quaint, colorful towns dotted across the countryside. It is an area with small finca’s (farms) where locals gather at the town squares in the afternoons for chit-chats, enjoying coffee, locally made ice cream, or beer discussing the day’s happenings. Local farmers ride to town on horseback, stop at the bar and stay on their horses while the barman serves them a beer or two. It is a very easy-going, laid-back lifestyle. Every town has small cooperation that buys the local coffee and then grades it to sell on to more significant buyers and for exporting. Make no mistake, the locals take their quality extremely seriously. The competition to produce the best coffee beans are fierce and comes with its share of honor.
Small, short wheelbase old Willy’s jeeps are used to ferry locals into the mountainous terrain to their homes or farms. The terrain is quite difficult and dangerous to navigate with bigger vehicles, and only these workhorses can traverse the single-track mud roads in summer. These old Jeeps were brought in by the thousands by the Colombians after the Second World War and are as iconic today and very loved by Colombians. Sometimes during the year, the jeeps are decorated and overloaded with bags of coffee to compete in events driving colorful best-decorated Jeep. Further south is “Trampolin de la Muerte” ( Trampoline of Death) and one of the famous death roads in Colombia. There are a bucket load of death roads in Colombia. That said, in our 6 months riding around Colombia, we encountered many that eventually turned out to be much scarier than Trampolin de la Muerte. Not that this one was anything to shrug off. It is not that the road is that technically difficult to ride. It is basically a single-track road and extremely narrow where cars and small trucks have to scrape sides to get past each other. Landslides and flash storms turn streams into rivers, which are a big part of what makes this road so incredibly dangerous. The road can become nearly undrivable when properly wet after few days of rain. It’s about a 65 km long rocky road that will lead you over two summits up to 2800m altitude. The road is peppered with many crosses, in remembrance of those that perished. Steep 270-degree switchbacks are typical for most of the first part. There are river crossings with boulders to get through and waterfalls to contend with. They can easily change to rivers after the rains, and we were told this is how most victims die. Underestimating the power of the river, dying trying to go through. Torrents of water can wash down the mountain.
THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE
on their back wheels and to show who boasts the most
THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE
The road was constructed in 1930 to transport soldiers during the war between Colombia and Peru, and so far, has been directly responsible for ending hundreds of lives. Unconfirmed sources recorded more than 500 people dead in 2011, and in 1989, about 300 people died in a terrible collapse. It started to rain halfway, and we had to pull off to wait it out. The road turned nasty and slippery, and a few times we had to push our bikes into the side of the cliffs to allow traffic to pass us. The continuous climb up the mountain allows for spectacular views across the valley to where the road continues and where we still have to go. Although definitely not the most dangerous
THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE
road we have ridden in Colombia, the combination of views, landscapes, crazy steep switchbacks, river crossings and overhanging cliffs made this an unforgettable experience and still rightly can be classified as a death road. A good portion of our route through Colombia was dictated by festivals happening around the country. The Colombians know how to party, and when they gather for a festival, they do it properly. Two of the most memorable festivals were the Burro (Donkey) festival in the small farming town of Alcaldia de San Antero Cordoba. It is nearly a week-long celebration for the donkeys’ importance for farm work and general work around the area. Every day several bands and dance groups entertain the crowds while marching through the town. The clothing are elaborate designs costing several hundred dollars, and all are hand made, and even the donkeys get all dressed up. From across the entire region, people gather to attend the parades that make their way through the small streets of the town. At night it is full-blown party mode in this hot, humid area close to the Caribbean coast. Food trucks with multicolor lights line the streets to keep the people partying. In the sleepy town of Mompox, also known as Santa Cruz de Mompox, or even Mompós, the 300-year-old Mompox is a city lost in time, a World Heritage Site, virtually unknown outside of Colombia. Which is a crying shame because it’s one of the most beautiful colonial towns. Perhaps the town’s most noticeable buildings are its seven churches. Painted with bright colors, they’re within easy walking distance of each other. Most striking of all is the Church of Santa Barbara with its yellow facade and baroque bell tower. The red-ochre-painted Church of San Francisco and the Church of the Immaculate Conception make one feel like you are back in Spanish times.
THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE
Once a year, one of the most colorful Holy Week in Colombia is celebrated here, Semana Santa, full of pious acts that have been preserved since the Spanish colonization. Groups of men carry incredibly heavy shrines for up to 10 hours moving, rocking in a trance state back and forth on the rhythm of the music, three steps forward, two steps back. They start this late at night as it is brutally hot and humid. It is a ceremonial procession to repent their sins.
partying, barbecues, food, and celebrating loved ones. Some of the churches in Colombia are such incredible architectural works of art it will leave you speechless, whether you are religious or not, but for the sheer architecture and engineering that created it. Close to the border of Ecuador, there is such a church that saw life in late 1700. It is an ornate 18th-century Gothic-style Catholic church popular as a pilgrimage site. It was built inside the canyon of the Guáitara River. It rises 100 meters high from the bottom of the canyon and is connected to the opposite side of the canyon by a 50 meters tall bridge. Named, Our Lady of Las Lajas, it took over four projects over time to finish the church to what it is today. During the 6 months we rode around Colombia, I can, without a doubt, confirm that Colombia is not what you read in the media. It is everything other than Escobar, drugs, and a Netflix movie. It is a vibrant, beautiful country with wonderful, warmhearted people, colorful culture, and history. The biggest bonus is the landscapes and diverse fauna and flora. As for motorcycle riding, Colombia will never be boring. It will leave you breathless, wanting more, and in love with the country.
THE COLOMBIA E XPERIENCE
The entire week is not just repenting sins. It is also
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