Upshift Issue 59 - July 2021

Issue 59

July 2021

KISKA.COM Photo: R. Schedl

how sandstorms begin

It’s time to adventure even harder. The new KTM 890 ADVENTURE R is here – a true offroad travel specialist. With class-leading handling, rally-like agility, and boosted power and torque figures, you can be sure you’ll never eat dust, except in the sandstorm you create.

FIND OUT MORE AT WWW.KTM.COM Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective safety gear and ride in a responsible manner. The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost. European specification model shown for illustration purposes only.

Ténéré 700. The Next Horizon is yours.

YamahaMotorsports.com Professional rider depicted on a closed course. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long sleeves, long pants, gloves and boots. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. ©2020 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved.

ISSUE 59 July 2021

Issue 59

INSTA-ADV

July 2021

y information: These drawings contain information y to Upshift. Any reproduction, orCover transmittal of this on without expressed written consent is prohibited by Simon Cudby se partial or complete of the sord marks is prohibited hable to the full extent of the law.

Design Chris Glaspell

Instagram Travelers

LOGO SHEET

THE INSIDER The Box Truck

Photography Editor Simon Cudby Contributing Writers Stephen W. Clark Randy Commans Chad de Alva Travis Gill

BIKES-GEAR PMS 021

BLACK

Contributing Photographers Tim Burke Stephen W. Clark Randy Commans Chad de Alva Olivier De Vaulx Travis Gill Skúli Már Gunnarsson Riley Morrison

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Views Through The Lens

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ICELAND

Escape To The Westfjords

Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell Business Development Brandon Glanville

GOLD CREEK LODGE Hard Enduro and Soft Sunsets

Want to advertise with us?

Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

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TECH

Join us on Instagram at @ upshift_online

Lithium Batteries

Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/upshiftonline

MONTENEGRO

Exploring the Mountainous Balkan Country

Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2021. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

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The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

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ADV A/C E P I C A I R F LOW R OA D - R E A DY P R OT E C T I O N O F F- R OA D M O B I L I T Y B A JA S4 JAC K E T & PA N T F3 C A R B O N H E L M E T VIPER PRO GOGGLES B A JA S4 G LOV E S

# K L IML IF E

K L I M .C O M

EXPERIENCE THE V-STROM AT

SUZUKICYCLES.COM/ADVENTURE

Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2021 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.

STAY FULLY CONNECTED

Behind a big, bright LED headlight is a large, multifunction instrument panel that displays the information you want on a bright, LCD screen. The adjoining USB power port and mounting bar is ready for your favorite navigation or entertainment accessories.

GO ANYWHERE ADVENTURE PACKAGE

Choose the V-STROM 1050XT Adventure to take the gear you need and ride in comfort with Suzuki’s quick-release, aluminum pannier set, heated handgrips, and a set of LED fog lamps.

RIDE WITH COMFORT & EASE

Ride-by-Wire dual electronic throttle assemblies provide light, precise response for tight roads and trails while the Cruise Control system helps you make short work of long miles. Takeoffs from inclines are a breeze with the Hill Hold Control system.

SUZUKI’S INTELLIGENT RIDE SYSTEM

Tame any road or trail as you tailor the power delivery through the multi-mode Drive Mode Selector and Traction Control* systems, while tuning braking response with the two-level adjustable Motion Track Anti-lock Brake** system.

BIG V-TWIN POWER

The 90-degree, V-Twin engine has more peak power than ever before while maintaining its strong pull off the bottom and superb fuel economy allowing you to go the distance.

The Traction Control System is not a substitute for the rider’s throttle control. It cannot prevent loss of traction due to excessive speed when the rider enters a turn and/or applies the brakes. Neither can it prevent the front wheel from losing grip. **Depending on road surface conditions, such as wet, loose, or uneven roads, braking distance for an ABS-equipped vehicle may be longer than for a vehicle not equipped with ABS. ABS cannot prevent wheel skidding caused by braking while cornering. Please ride carefully and do not overly rely on ABS. Model shown with optional accessories. *

THE BOX TRUCK

By Chad de Alva

Recently, someone thought it was a good idea to attempt to drive a 30 foot box truck over Ophir pass in Colorado. And no, I’m not talking about the RV that recently got stuck on a narrow shelf road in the same area. While we don’t know the exact decision-making process that lead to this box truck becoming stuck halfway up a narrow road cut though a giant scree field, we can make a few good guesses as to how it happened: Blind faith in following a GPS, someone’s suggestion of a cool trail, or being too stubborn to quit while you’re ahead.

Sometimes it takes a string of choices, and other times it takes just one choice to get your good idea posted all over the internet.

Photo: San Miguel County Sheriff

Just like the box truck driver’s choices lead to a bad day in the high country (and probably a worse day when he got back to the office), riders who push too far can quickly find their adventure turned into a misery-fest. Our bikes are exponentially more capable than the average box truck, so just because you can ride downhill over that snowfield or you can use that perfectly placed rock to get over that monster downed tree, doesn’t mean these obstacles can be navigated when you are headed the other way. Forward at all costs is not the right approach.

The best way to have fun riding in the mountains is to make good choices and to remember that the top of the mountain is only the halfway point – you still have to make it back home. Use your head, and don’t treat the random GPS track you found online or some dude at the bar’s suggestion of a trail as Gospel. Ride hard, but ride with respect, and make choices that let you make it home. It’s much better to share your own adventure online, rather than have the county Sheriff share your bad choices online for you.

2022 BETA RR-S Dualsport Lineup Beta USA has worked with their factory in Italy to create the ultimate street legal off‐road Dual Sport bike and the 2022 model continues with further development. Basically, the same bike as the Race Edition models, the RR‐S range is further enhanced for 2022 with a new diaphragm clutch, new LED headlight, and other features that will inspire and enhance the off‐road trail‐connecting appeal of the RR‐S model range.

Available in four different engine sizes: 350, 390, 430, and 500. Each engine offers a different power delivery, which provides riders with a full range of choices. The 350 has a lighter overall feel and a more free‐revving engine. The 390 provides many of the characteristics as the 350 but with added torque. The 430 is the closest to a MX model yet and has more of an off‐road type power delivery. The best‐selling 500 is the “do it all” model, offering the rider plenty of grunt down low with less shifting and a broad range of controllable power. Pricing: 350 RR‐S $10,999.00, 390 RR‐S $11,099.00, 430 RR‐S $11,199.00, 500 RR‐S $11,299.00. Availability: September. www.betausa.com Engine Updates: • Diaphragm Clutch: this new clutch provides a lighter clutch pull while offering more progressive control, significantly reducing rider fatigue. Both engagement and disengagement have been improved, while the clutch is now capable of transmitting even more torque. Riders can also adjust the clutch settings with three different spring options to suit his/her clutch feel.

Chassis Updates: • Suspension: the rear shock has new compression damping settings with independent high and low speed damping rates providing the rider with the adjustability for both separate settings. The front forks have also received updated internal valving settings to further enhance the plushness. Also new to the fork are the tubes, different in color thanks to the new anodizing process which improves the surface hardness and corrosion‐resistance of the tubes.

X D-4

FLUORESCENT I COVER YELLOW FROST

THE ARAI DIFFERENCE: GLANCING OFF At Arai, protecting the rider is the single most important element in any helmet they produce.

The kinetic energy generated by a crash can be avoided or minimized by glancing off objects. Glancing off is the ability to avoid sending energy directly into the helmet and Arai believes this is one of the most important performance characteristics of a helmet.

Protect what is priceless.

No helmet can protect the wearer against all foreseeable impacts. Nothing is a substitute for safe riding practices. ©2021 Arai Helmet

New Triumph SOS Motorcycle Accident Detection and Emergency Alerting System Introducing Triumph SOS, an all new accredited advanced accident detection and emergency alerting system from Triumph that automatically connects you to the nearest emergency services in your time of need.

Launching today in the US and Canada, as well as across Europe, Australia, and New Zealand, this comprehensive new service is available to all riders regardless of the bike they own, and with a 3-month free trial for all Triumph owners.

A new essential part of a rider’s safety equipment, Triumph SOS mobile app while not physically connected to the motorcycle, has been specifically tailored for motorcyclists, and monitors key sensors in your smartphone to detect and validate an accident.

Where seconds can save lives, this Google-Cloud hosted emergency alerting platform will automatically deliver the rider’s time-critical and potentially life-saving details directly to the emergency services within seconds of the accident being detected, following a unique validation process.

Precise GPS location, direction of travel, bike details, and medical information allow emergency responders to reach you quickly and provide assistance accordingly.

Advanced features include sophisticated Auto-pause technology to prevent accidental triggering so you can fully focus on your ride.

A fully integrated system that protects you while riding in the US, Canada, Europe, Australia and New Zealand, Triumph SOS is available for a rolling monthly subscription charge of USD $4.99 / CAD $5.99, with no cancellation fees or long-term contract commitment. Triumph SOS does not record or send any speed or telematics data to the emergency services. Riders can download the Triumph SOS app now from iOS and Android App stores. www.triumphmotorcycles.com

Klim Krios Pro Helmet ECE/DOT Building off the legendary Krios adventure helmet, the Krios Pro is the first ADV-specific DOT helmet in North America to integrate Koroyd® impact absorbing technology. The Krios Pro elevates standards in comfort, performance and airflow while leaving traditional compromises behind. The ultimate adventure motorcycle experience is made possible by high performance hand-laid carbon fiber construction, four-ride-mode versatility, aerodynamic superiority and exceptional comfort. MSRP: $699.99 www.klim.com • Full carbon fiber hand-laid shell • Optimized shell resin distribution for weight reduction • Koroyd® energy absorbing materials/construction • Koroyd® structures crush homogeneously for better impact absorption • Fully adjustable chin/forehead vents • Scratch resistant polycarbonate shield • Transitions® photochromic shield include • Pinlock® anti-fog insert lens included

2-Stroke Models 125 | 200 | 250 | 300

The Best Just Got Better

Reserve your RR today at a local Beta dealership

Woman’s Alpinestars Stella Andes V3 Drystar Jacket The Andes v3 Jacket is anatomically engineered for an optimized woman’s fit and its exclusive Alpinestars Drystar ® construction ensures 100% waterproofing and high levels of breathability, even in difficult riding conditions. The technically advanced construction of this jacket offers protection and abrasion resistance and is adaptable to all weather conditions. MSRP: $279.95 www.alpinestars.com • Tech-Air ® 5 ready.

• Designed for an optimized woman’s fit.

• Constructed with an advanced reinforced polyfabric textile for durability and a Drystar® waterproof and breathable membrane for 100 per cent waterproof performance in wet weather conditions.

• Newly developed direct ventilation system (DVS) zippered chest air intakes for high levels of airflow.

• Internal impact protection provided by removable elbow and shoulder protectors.

• Chest and back compartments can accommodate the Nucleon chest and back inserts.

PRESS PLAY.

check out the NEW Zip-R Bags @ WOLFMANLUGGAGE.COM

WIDE OPEN

OREGON

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

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IDAHO

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

WIDE OPEN

ICELAND

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

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CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

A

R O E F R S U N T N RA E T DV

D E M

THE BENCHMARK FOR URBAN ADVENTURE, TOURING AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN. The Tiger 900 GT range represents a transformation in road-focused adventure capability with powerful and responsive performance, premium specification technology and equipment, and an aggressive style.

The Tiger 900 GT and the even higher specification GT Pro are designed to give you everything you need for urban adventures, touring, commuting and everything in between. With ride-enhancing features that include a dedicated fully adjustable suspension set-up, 900cc triple engine performance and cast wheels, these Tigers deliver a benchmark-setting road-focused ride.

Find out more, visit TriumphMotorcycles.com

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MICHIGAN

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

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CANADA

PHOTO: RILEY MORRISON

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OREGON

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

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CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

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WASHINGTON

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

OVERLANDER-S

NEW OS-BASE KTM 1050/1090/1190 ADVENTURE + 1290 SUPER ADVENTURE An 'over the seat harness' which allows OS-6, OS-12 or OS-18 ADVENTURE PACKS to be mounted as soft panniers.

No additional frames or rear rack are required, this system provides a super-tough, waterproof, lightweight carrying solution specifically designed to fit KTM Adventure bikes with no drilling or permanent bodywork alterations to the bike.

EQUIPMENT ILLUSTRATED: • 2 x OS-18 ADVENTURE PACKS mounted on OS-BASE • Bash plate / Crash bars by Outback-Motortek

KRIEGA.US

#RIDEKRIEGA

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UTAH

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

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COLORADO

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

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ICELAND

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MONTANA

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

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ICELAND

PHOTO: SIMON CUDBY

ICELAND ESC APE TO THE W ESTFJORDS OF

PHOTOS BY SIMON CUDBY :::::: WORDS BY RANDY COMMANS

Welcome Back To Iceland. It’s mid June and I feel fortunate to be heading back to Iceland. Last time we explored the Highlands. On this trip, Skuli and his crew at Ride With Locals will be taking us

delayed out of Boise, so he ended up missing our flight to Iceland. I arrived Friday early am. This gave me a day to set up our Husky 701s and get adjusted to the time change and jet lag.

Simon caught a flight the next day. We met up Saturday morning at the Ride Selfoss. Our adventure starts with a well

TO

rested Randy and a sleep-deprived

:: E S C A P E

With Locals headquarters in the town of

OF

airport, or so I thought. Simon’s flight was

WESTFJORDS

flight to Reykavik/Keflnvik International

THE

with Simon in Minneapolis to catch our

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North to the Westfjords. I’m meeting up

Simon. It’s cold and windy with 325 Kilometers slated for the day, so no time to waste. An hour or so into the ride we leave the paved roads behind and find ourselves in Iceland’s vast off grid landscape. Stopping to watch the Velkomin Geyser erupt and later to enjoy one of Iceland’s most popular waterfalls, Gullfoss Falls delivers!

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With plenty of ground still to cover we hit the dirt suddenly finding ourselves riding along Iceland’s second largest glacier. A few more kilometers down the trail and were riding between the second and third largest I C E L A N D ::

pretty wet and soon turns to snow covered.

OF

and small waterfall. This would be why they

WESTFJORDS

had us pack swim trunks and a towel on our

THE

to the Westfjords, we followed the coast line.

TO

and after the small villages and have long

:: E S C A P E

glaciers. The dirt/gravel now starts getting

stretches of dirt/gravel connectors. Perfect for

The snow drifts made for some fun and excitement as we plowed on. Out of the horizon appears a hut next to a natural hot springs

bikes. After a quick dip to warm up and we are back at it, soon reaching our hotel.

With a good night sleep and continuing north The roads are paved a few kilometers before

adventure.

The coastlines are one fjord after another.

Making for epic views of the ocean and bays. Now might be a good time to explain what a fjord is... Fjord: a long, narrow, deep inlet of the sea between high cliffs, as in Norway and Iceland, typically formed by submergence of a glaciated valley.

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We spend the night in the small retired fishing village of Djupavik. Djupavik is famous for its Herring processing factory that thrived from 1935 to 1954. The village has beautiful ocean/bay views, waterfalls and a beached iron ship. The small family style hotel has a tricky curved staircase (not ideal for size 12 moto boots and large gear bags). The rooms are small, simple, have two tiny beds and a small sink in the corner. The bathroom is down the narrow hall. I hope I didn’t make it sound sub-par, we really enjoyed our stay!

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TO

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Hidden gems like this make off-road motorcycle travel so unique and exciting. After a couple cold days, Simon and I wised up and taped our helmet vents closed from the inside.

cloudy skies dropping snow flakes, it wasn’t looking good. Fortunately just around the next fjord we were met by the warm sun and clear skies. We continued north to take in a couple more fishing villages, waterfalls, mountain passes, large snow drifts and some rocky technical trails. Up until the last two mountain passes the ride was novice friendly. We enjoyed the tougher terrain of the last two mountain sections but if that’s not your cup of tea, Skuli

THE

with a 7:30pm arrival at the next hotel. Grab a quick

TO

has two quick and easy bailouts. We finish the day

headed to a post ride hot tub. It was about 1 kilome-

:: E S C A P E

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OF

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We rolled out of Djupavik the next morning with

ter down the road right on the bay. I should mention

dinner and a couple Viking beers and find ourselves

it’s about 11pm, still light out, 0 degrees Celsius and we are wearing shorts and flip-flops. I’ll chalk the poor judgment up to the beers.

A late start the next morning, great weather and a 50K ride down the pavement. Beautiful day exploring fjords, beaches, crystal clear waters, ship wrecks and snow capped mountains in the distance.

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Day Five (by now all the days blur together) we are on the bikes at 4am with a hotel packed continental breakfast surprise. It’s light out as the sun never really sets. The reason for the early start,

and over Route 66 (F-66 mountain pass) with temps -2 to -4 degrees Celsius.

Worth the chill though, as we drop down and encounter the Dynjandi waterfall, known as the jewel of the Westfjords.

No time to waste, we still need to make our low tide beach crossing. With the

we arrive at our next hotel at 9:45am.

TO

Yes, that’s right 9:45 in the morning.

:: E S C A P E

beach behind us and a full day of riding

OF

some epic light for shooting pictures. Up

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day’s ride. The early morning makes for

THE

between 6-7am a couple hours into the

I C E L A N D ::

we need to hit low tide beach crossing

This gives us a chance to catch up on some rest. The family-owned small hotel is more than accommodating keeping us warm and happy while our rooms are cleaned as they become available.

Of course a long soak in the hot tub while we wait. I think a few of us might have even enjoyed a few pre 10am beers.

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Well rested, we set out the next morning. We quickly have to change direction as the ferry crossing we planned on was canceled due to COVID restrictions. We found ourselves re-routed through a 5 kilometer tunnel through the base of the next mountain. Our day ended on a rip up and down a private beach owned by the family of one of our guides. It pays to Ride With Locals!

Yes, the Westfjords region is absolutely worth a trip! There is so much to see here: vast landscapes, beautiful fjords, stunning waterfalls, unique villages, natural hot springs, sandy beaches, and 3 times more sheep than people. This remote part of Iceland is a true hidden gem.

:: E S C A P E

TO

THE

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Hard Enduro and Soft Sunsets

Words and photos: Stephen W. Clark

Close your eyes and imagine a place where the single track flows like a dark ribbon of chocolate dirt through the forest. A place where you can eat, sleep and drink enduro. A place so remote only fellow riders seek it out, and the gift shop sells bib mouses. A place where the rides are as challenging as the evenings are relaxing and after a long day on the bike the beer flows like the springs of water you see on the trail. Welcome to Gold Creek Lodge.

Located in the Idaho Panhandle on the shore of Lake Pend Oreille, Gold Creek Lodge is a destination built almost exclusively for enduro riding. The multi-acre forested property has a hotel campground, restaurant, bar, store, rental operation, and the best part: instant access to countless miles of motorized singletrack trails. As the crow flies, it is close to Coeur D’ Alene but is very remote because it is only accessible by either 45 minutes of dirt road or from the other side of the lake by boat.

There’s no cell signal, making it a fantastic place to unwind and disconnect from the day-to-day world. Really the only stress at Gold Creek is keeping your bike running and surviving the day’s ride.

My good friend Kory Cowan and I did a once in a lifetime motorcycle trip in Austria a few years ago, and we always had intentions of making another trip, but like everyone else, the possibility of international travel has been largely off the table for the last few years, so we needed to find something a little closer to home. Back in 2015, I had visited Gold Creek when it first opened and got a small taste of what the area had to offer. Since then, the owner Dave McCahill and his team have really fine-tuned the operation, adding more camping spots, a store, rental bikes, and much more. Word has spread, and it’s not uncommon to run into top riders like Colton Haaker, Cody Webb, or any other top ten finishing World level Hard Enduro riders at the Lodge. I’ve always wanted to go back, so Kory and I found a free weekend, loaded the 300’s in the truck, and headed North to ride with Dave and our common buddy and all-around ripper, Kaleb Retz.

Luck was on our side because we arrived at Gold Creek just at the end of a rainstorm, so the dirt was about as perfect as it could have been. Slightly muddy in sections but mostly dark loamy dirt without a single ounce of dust. Every riding area has its legendary trail, the one where the stories of blood, sweat, and tears are endless. In the case of Gold Creek, that trail is Packsaddle. We had heard stories of pro riders having meltdowns on the trail, and it has become almost a rite of passage for riders visiting the Lodge, so we at least had to give it a try. Dave did his best to warn us and try to talk us out of it, but Kaleb really pushed the idea. So off we went, slightly nervous but excited to see how we would do. A crew of guys from Montana were also at the Lodge with similar aspirations of summiting Packsaddle and set off before us. The first part of the trail when we were fresh was really fun, challenging, and technical but not the same dragging your bike over boulders in a cloud of coolant steam kind of way to what was coming up.

Typically on trail rides, we try to keep the group together by waiting at intersections, but Packsaddle really isn’t that kind of ride.

It’s more of an every man for them self death march to the summit with the unspoken rule that you can tap out at any time and take the ride of shame back to the Lodge. Everything is relative, but I feel like I’ve ridden with my fair share of capable enduro riders on challenging trails over the years, but I’ve never ridden a trail that is so hard for so long, it literally felt like it was never going to end. The relentless trail switchbacks its way up the hill through a countless number of very tough boulder sections, and while the moisture made the normal trails perfect, that moisture translated into the mud and slick, slimy rocks. I lost track of the number of times the coolant in my bike boiled over as I pulled off my sweat-soaked helmet and gasped for air in a cloud of steaming coolant. For a rider with my lack of abilities, there becomes a time on a ride like this that it really comes down to the will you have to get to the top; so we pushed, fell over, spun, boiled over with every big effort getting us slightly closer to the top.

The Montana crew were stopped in the hardest section with a chain wedged around the countershaft sprocket, so a few of those guys were super nice to pull my forks up through the rocks. The last I heard from them, they were considering removing the swingarm. With the rest of my group ahead, I continued my march to the summit. Two steps forward and one step backward, I made slow progress towards the top. Completely exhaust and well past the point of it even being fun on a bike that had been beaten to within an inch of its life, we finally arrived at the top. Or the almost top. For the really ambitious riders, there’s a short but ridiculously difficult section of the boulders that you can ride to the very top. I chose to hike. In the spirit of capturing content, Kory was a trooper and rode/pushed/drug his way up the super nasty section to the very top. The view from the top was absolutely incredible and quickly made it all feel worthwhile. We spent a good hour at the top taking photos and hanging out with other riders, and cheering on the ambitious guys who rode to the top before starting to head back down. The trail down was surprisingly challenging as well, with more mud, rock drop-offs, and tight switchbacks. We had started with intentions of doing a much longer rider, but Packsaddle took a lot more time, effort, and coolant than we expected, so we made our way back to the Lodge.

Don’t let our lack of good judgment of picking trails sway you away from going to Gold Creek. There are countless other trails in the area that are much flowier. Next time we will probably ride those trails. The gravel roads in the area are equally as endless, so for riders on bigger bikes navigating the Panhandle, Gold Creek could make a great place to stop.

Back at Gold Creek, we washed the bikes and wound down from the day with some appetizers and a cold beverage before heading out on the lake. Kaleb took us out on the Gold Creek Mastercraft surf boat for a sunset surf session. Sitting on the boat watching the sunset reflect off the glassy water, I felt like I should pinch myself. It was so relaxing and such a stark contrast to the challenging day we had on the trails. In a place like this, it’s easy to lose track of time, and before we knew it, we were sitting around a fire and had missed dinner. Obviously, in a place this remote, there are limited options for dinner and not wanting to let us go to bed on an empty stomach, Dave put the boat back in the water and cruised us across the lake to Lakeside. This place was wild with an almost Venice’esque feel with lanes of floating houses connected by walkways. We floated into town and docked at a little waterside bar where we enjoyed a burger and a beer before heading back across the lake and back to Gold Creek.

Our trip was short, but I feel any length of trip to Gold Creek would never be long enough. It’s a really special place in so many ways. More often than not, the locations we find ourselves in on bike trips are destinations popular with people seeking out a vast myriad of recreation activities. This is completely fine, but what makes Gold Creek unique is that it’s a facility completely dedicated to enduro with the trails to back it up. Gold Creek is a one-stop shop for an epic time, so if enduro is your thing, you really should add a trip to your bucket list. www.goldcreeklodge.com

September 12 -17, 2021 Crested Butte, Colorado

Colorado600.org The Colorado 600 is an annual five day ride and trail symposium held by the Trails Preservation Alliance (TPA), sanctioned by the American Motorcyclist Association.

Riders learn first hand about issues facing trail riding in Colorado, Utah and New Mexico. All proceeds from the event support the TPA and it’s mission.

The Trails Preservation Alliance is a 501(c)(3) non-profit Colorado based off-highway motorcycle advocacy organization. We work with various land agencies to ensure equitable access for the sport of motorcycle riding. Learn more at www.coloradotpa.org.

TECH

BY CHAD DE ALVA

L I T HIUM B A T T E R IE S Lithium motorcycle batteries are one of those products that always seem to make for some quality reading in the comments section when someone posts something online about one. It’s like asking the collective internet who makes the best pre mix, or what tire pressure is best – there is an endless supply of opinions and experiences on the internet.

Yet, what worked great for Bob may not produce the same results for Bill, and even the best product out there won’t perform as advertised if it isn’t used and cared for properly. So this article takes a pile of information sourced directly from Lithium Battery manufacturers and battery charger manufactures and lays it all out on the table. The goal here is to share accurate information so that prospective and current lithium battery owners can follow the best practices out there to get the most out of their current and any future lithium Motorcycle Batteries.

WHY LITHIUM: In motorcycle applications, lithium batteries offer a number of advantages over traditional batteries. This is why some OEMs are selling new bikes with lithium batteries, and many riders are replacing their lead batteries with lithium batteries when their bikes need a new battery. A deep dive on the differences between the two types of batteries could easily fill a physics textbook (remember those?). So here is a quick summary of the differences between lead and lithium to keep things constrained to an article that can be consumed in a single serving.

Lithium motorcycle batteries weigh less than their lead-based counterparts. In many cases, we’re talking pounds of weight savings. This is one of the big reasons why OEMs are making lithium batteries standard equipment. Lithium batteries also provide more Cranking Amps (CA), and have a lower self-discharge rate. This means more power to turn your bike over, and a longer shelf life if you store your bike. Lithium batteries are more vibration and shock tolerant than lead batteries, and they can also be mounted in any orientation, where some lead batteries have to be kept right side up. Lastly, thanks in part to the Battery Management System (BMS) found on most lithium batteries, their lifespan is often significantly longer than a lead-based battery which has no form of management system.

DROP IN PERFORMANCE: Think of a Battery Management System as a little computer built into a lithium battery that controls how the battery functions. Some brands of lithium batteries have more advanced versions of a BMS than others, and we’ll talk about those advanced features in a minute, but any quality brand of lithium battery can be run in a late model bike without issue. The BMS will manage the charging voltage and current supplied by the bike to make sure that the cells in the lithium battery are properly charged and balanced, so the whole battery can work as advertised. In most cases, switching from lead to a lithium battery is as easy as selecting the correct size lithium battery, fully charging it, and installing it in your bike.

The one exception with bike compatibility is an issue with classic bikes, or bikes that have a mechanical voltage regulator. It is possible for these mechanical regulators to get stuck or fail in a way that their output voltage is outside of what the BMS can handle, so if you’re going to use a lithium battery in a bike that has a mechanical voltage regulator, make absolutely certain the regulator is working properly before you drop in a lithium battery.

TECH: LITHIUM BATTERIES READ THE MANUAL: If you have a bike that came with a lithium battery from the factory, it’s absolutely worth reading everything in the owner’s manual about how to properly use and care for the OEM battery. In the case of KTM Enduro (dirt) bikes that come with lithium batteries, the manual has a specific starting procedure for lower temperatures, because lithium battery performance is impacted by colder weather. The following starting procedure comes from the KTM manual, but the overlying concept applies to any lithium motorcycle battery. When the cells in a lithium battery get cold, they aren’t able to output the same amount of current as when they’re warm, so the cells need to be warmed up with a gentle load so they can handle a big load, like starting a cold bike.

First, engage your bike’s cold start. Then, simply give your bike’s starter a quick tap to create a little bit of load. Now, wait at least 30 seconds before trying to start the bike again. If the starter seems sluggish on this first starting attempt, wait another 30 seconds before trying again. The KTM manual states that you shouldn’t crank the bike for more than 5 seconds every 30 seconds, so be patient. Using this procedure has worked great for me and my KTMs in cold weather – and I convert my KTM 500 to a snowbike every winter. Using both OEM and aftermarket lithium batteries and this starting ritual, I’ve had no issues getting my bikes going in the cold.

If you are installing an aftermarket lithium battery into a bike, it’s also a great idea to read the manual that came with the battery.

Remember, we’re dealing with batteries that have computers inside them, so this is not the same thing as a standard AA lithium battery. If you get nothing else from the manual, know that you need to fully charge the battery before you install it in your bike, and make sure to determine the maximum safe current at which the new lithium battery can be charged. Throwing too much current at a battery can lead to explosive results.

EXTERNAL CHARGING: To charge that brand new lithium battery prior to installation, or to plug your lithium battery equipped bike in for long term storage, you’re going to need a battery charger. The best way to charge a lithium battery is to use a charger that has a lithium charging profile. Any quality brand of charger will work, but I’ve personally had great luck with CTEK and NOCO Genius chargers. For motorcycle batteries, a 1-Amp charger is plenty of power for general charging and storage use. Yes, you can certainly feed these batteries more current, just please check your specific battery and/or your bike’s manual for the maximum recommended charging current. And, please don’t use a cheap discount store charger. Not burning down your bike and whatever it’s parked in is worth the cost of a proper charger.

Lead battery chargers can be used with lithium batteries, the key thing is to make sure that you turn off the desulfate features on the lead charger if it has one. If you can’t turn off any desulfating functions, or you aren’t sure, just don’t risk it. When lead battery chargers go into desulfation mode, they crank up their output voltage, which can harm a lithium battery and cause bad things to happen. You do not want to over volt a battery. I would strongly suggest that you spend a few bucks to get a dedicated lithium charger, so you don’t have to worry about turning features on and off. A lithium battery charger will make things plug and play.

ADVANCED BMS FEATURES: Just like some computers are much more sophisticated than others, some brands of lithium batteries have a BMS that has more features than other brands of batteries. Antigravity Batteries make arguably the most advanced BMS around, and their Re-Start batteries offer a very valuable feature. Say you left your key on, or you left your GPS powered on when you finished riding for the day. A normal battery will just supply power until it’s totally dead, and you get the distinct pleasure of finding a dead battery in your bike the next time you go to ride.

TECH: LITHIUM BATTERIES With a Re-Start battery, the BMS is smart enough to turn the battery off before it’s fully discharged. This does two important things: First, it saves the battery from damage as a result of over discharging, and most importantly for the rider, there will be enough juice in the battery to start your bike up. To use the Re-Start feature, you simply have to press a button on the battery to turn it back on, then crank your bike over and go ride for a while to get some charge back in the battery. If you are only able to go for a shorter ride, plug your bike in when you get home to ensure that your battery is fully charged for future use.

Other brands of lithium batteries, like those sold by Firepower, have a BMS that features an integrated test gauge where you can press a button and see what your battery’s state of charge is. This is an easy way to see if your bike needs to be plugged in if it’s been sitting for a while and is much easier than hauling out a multimeter to get a voltage reading.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER: Lithium batteries work great in motorcycle applications. When you’re switching from a lead battery, you can save several pounds of weight, pick up additional starting power, and have a battery with a longer service life and warranty than the lead battery that you are replacing. So if you have a lead battery that is getting tired, give a lithium battery a try. Likewise, if you just want some drop-in performance and weight savings (less weight means more bike performance), a lithium battery is an easy way to do that.

Pick up a battery charger with a lithium charging mode if you do not have one already, and then enjoy trouble free performance for years and years to come. Starting a bike in warm (above 60 degrees Fahrenheit) weather is business as usual, and starting in the cold works well if you follow the proper procedure. If you go with an Antigravity Battery that has Re-Start, you’ll have the valuable peace of mind in knowing that even if you drop the ball and leave something on your bike powered up, your battery is smart enough to protect itself and your ride, by shutting off before it becomes too discharged.

Like any other product out there, lithium batteries can fail to work as advertised if you do not follow the directions and use them properly. So please, read the manuals! If you just drop a new lithium battery in a bike without charging it, and then try to start the bike by holding the starter down, you could very well kill your new battery. Do things right – charge the battery before you install it. Start your bike correctly in colder weather by following a process that lets the lithium battery warm up first. If your bike is hard to start right now, figure out why and fix it. Even the best battery in the world is going to have a hard time starting a bike that has other mechanical issues.

In more than four years of running lithium batteries, the only time I’ve had one die on me was entirely my fault. Let’s just say it involved forgetting a key, then jumping a connector to remove said forgotten key from the equation, and then forgetting to remove said jumper, which led to a dead battery. Other than that, I’ve had zero issues. I’ve run lithium batteries on snowbikes, dirtbikes, and ADV bikes, and they’ve all worked great. I use a lithium battery charger for all of my initial charges and maintenance charges, and I’ve had no problems.

If you have any questions on anything lithium battery or battery charger related, all of the companies I spoke with in researching this article were more than helpful. As always, I would encourage you to get your information directly from the manufacturer or from a reputable source. Firepower Batteries can be found here: https://firepowerparts.com/product/featherweight-lithium-battery/50983 Antigravity Batteries can be found here: https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/ CTEK chargers can be found here: https:// smartercharger.com/ NOCO Genius Chargers can be found here: https://no.co/products

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By Travis Gill viajarMOTO.com

Full-time motorcycle overlanding during a world-wide pandemic has been interesting to say the least. Our future travel plans had suddenly shifted from “Where would you like to go?” to “Where can we go?” With much of Europe being closed to Americans after July 2020, our options were getting fewer and fewer with each passing day.

Miraculously, we managed to find freedom in the Balkan Peninsula of southeastern Europe. Unconstrained by the 90-day limit of the rest of Schengen Europe, the Balkan region offered us hope of continued travel with each country offering anywhere from 90 days to one-year of travel within their borders.

After nearly three months of motorcycle touring in Croatia Upshift Issue 57, we continued south into the country of Montenegro. The border process went pretty smoothly until we returned to the border officials with our three months of motorcycle insurance we had purchased from the nearby office. Typically travelers buy the minimum insurance of two weeks. Since we purchased three months, this was a redflag for the officials. With crinkled eyebrows, the official asked in his best, but broken English, “How long do you stay in Montenegro?”

“As long as we can, we want to travel and see your beautiful country!” I replied. He seemed to shake his head a bit as if he was thinking “What on Earth are these two motorcyclists thinking?” He sighed, opened our passports to the next blank page, stamped them, and handed them back to us with a look of bewilderment. We now had another 90 days of travel time!

Black Mountain Montenegro is a western Balkan country situated on the Adriatic Coast. It is known for its medieval towns, rugged mountain ranges, lush green forests, and narrow beaches along its coastline. The country’s name, derived from Venetian, means “Black Mountain.” It’s fitting because most of the country is mountainous and offers some of the most rugged terrain in Europe. The highest peak, Bobotov Kuk, in the Durmitor mountains, climbs to 8,278 ft (2,523 m) despite being only 56 miles (90 km) from the Mediterranean coastline.

Weathering Winter It was not our original plan to be in the Balkans for winter. We imagined spending the winter season much further south in countries like Jordan, Israel, and Egypt. However, the Coronavirus pandemic has a way of changing one’s plans. Since we arrived in late November, we tended to stay along the coastline where the Mediterranean climate hinders sub-freezing temperatures and snow of the mountainous regions. We ended up being pleasantly surprised that, even in November and December, we were able to ride dirt roads near the coast and experience the high mountains of Durmitor National Park, as long as we stayed on paved roads. However, despite keeping our eyes on the weather forecast, there was one particular weekend, in the city of Cetinje, we woke to the surprise of our motorcycles covered in snow, despite only being 6 miles (9.7 km) from the coast. Fortunately the morning sun was enough to clear the snow from the paved roads and we were riding back to the coast that afternoon.

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Getting Dirty Part of the joy of riding a dual-sport or adventure motorcycle is riding in the backcountry on dirt roads and trails.

Fortunately, Montenegro has plenty of them. The Trans Euro Trail (TET) has a portion of 180 miles (290 km) that winds through the country joining Bosnia & Herzegovina to the north to Albania in the south. Unfortunately, due to the snow in the high mountains, we were not able to ride much of the TET. We did, however, enjoy exploring mountain trails on the west side of the country where we came across the remains of Fort Stražnik – a fortification of the Austria-Hungarian Empire. A little bit further north, we stumbled across the small town of Grahovo, and walked among a memorial dedicated to Sava Kovačević, a Yugoslav Partisan commander, and the men who died fighting against fascism during WWII.

Bay of Kotor This area of Montenegro is not to be missed! We thoroughly enjoyed riding along the twisty roads of this stunning bay while marveling at the majestic mountains that towered above us. The towns of Perast, Tivat, and Kotor are definitely worth visiting, especially for their seaside boardwalks with quiet coffee shops and restaurants with excellent food at Balkan prices. If you’re short of time, then make sure to spend at least a day in Kotor to include walking among the Venetian building of this UNESCO World Heritage Site and then hiking up to the Kotor Fortress that provides stunning views of the town and bay.

One of our favorite memories was scheduling a boat ride with Montenegro Submarine and Speedboat Tours. Although it was January, the sun kept temperatures above 50° F (11° C) so we could enjoy touring around Kotor Bay to include the sites of Our Lady of the Rocks Church, former Yugoslav submarine pens, and the Blue Cave. This half-day tour provides a wide variety of history, natural beauty, and enjoyable fun on the water.

Although the submarine pens and the Blue Cave were interesting, the highlight of the tour was visiting The Lady of the Rocks Church. This 18th century catholic church sits on a man-made island that is only accessible by boat. A legend says that after a severe storm, on the 22nd of July 1452, local fisherman discovered an icon of the Holy Mother of God with the Christ laying on the exposed rock in the middle of the bay. To honor the event, the fisherman vowed to continue adding rocks, old fishing vessels, and seized pirate ships to the islet so that a future church could be built on the foundation.

Over the centuries, the collection of rocks, and scuttled ships, was enough that an islet emerged and a small orthodox chapel was built. During the 17th century, the region was controlled by Venetians, and in 1630 a larger catholic chapel replaced the original orthodox one. In 1722 the church was renovated and includes a venerable 15th century icon of Virgin Mary, an impressive altar made of Carrara marble, and a museum full of artwork and mementos that have been dedicated by parishioners.

Brake Trouble While we were riding on the twisty roads around Shkodra Lake, I noticed that my rear brake pedal no longer had any pressure. I half expected this, since, over the past month, I had noticed that the rear brake pressure was slowly fading away despite repeated bleedings of the system to restore the pressure. It was well past time to replace the seals on the master cylinder. In the United States or western Europe this would be an easy fix with BMW Motorrad dealerships in almost every large city. In southern Montenegro, the closest dealer was 7.2 hours southeast in Greece and the next closest was 9.5 hours to the north in Croatia. Greece’s border was also locked down to travelers due to the Coronavirus pandemic.

What to do?

Fortunately, many people are resourceful in Macedonia. It’s apparent in the cars that you commonly see on the roads here. Remember the Yugo car from the mid-1980s? They are still driving them here! I also noticed many late model Lada 4x4s, and Soviet era UAZ-469 SUVs. Surely if mechanics can keep these relics on the road, then someone can fix my brakes. The next morning we removed the master cylinder and then with the help of our Airbnb host as an interpreter, we found the local guy who knew about motorcycles. He offered to repair the brake cylinder and I could pick it up the next day. He even installed it for me and bled the system. Months later it is still doing well and he even texted me a couple of weeks ago to ask how it was doing. How about that for customer service?

Continuing South With many of our fellow motorcycle overlanders being stuck in locked-down countries and having to give up travel plans, we felt extremely blessed to be in an area of the world where we could continue to travel. The next country along the Adriatic Coast is Albania.

We’ve heard a lot of things about this country and plan to experience it for ourselves. More adventure awaits…

About viajarMOTO Travis and Chantil Gill started full-time motorcycle overlanding in early 2020 and plan to continue traveling until they see as much of the world as they can. You can follow them on their website (www.viajarMOTO.com), and on YouTube, Instagram, and Facebook.

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