November 2021
Issue 63
KTM 500 EXC-F KTM 500 EXC-F KTM 500 EXC-F KTM 500 EXC-F
DOMINATE A UNQUESTIONED LEADER IN THE SEGMENT. The 2022 KTM 500 EXC-F is the unquestioned leader in the dual-sport segment. Hard-hitting, big-bore power is churned out by its high-tech, compact engine placed inside a nimble chassis, keeping this power machine surprisingly light and rideable. As a result, this 510 cc SOHC single-cylinder powerhouse has an incredible power-to-weight ratio and provides nothing less than the most dynamic and exciting dual-sport experience available.
Photo: R. Schedl / KISKA GmbH
ANY TERRAIN Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective safety gear and ride in a responsible manner. The illustrated vehicle may vary in selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost.
Ténéré 700. The Next Horizon is yours. www.YamahaMotorsports.com Professional rider depicted on a closed course. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long sleeves, long pants, gloves and boots. European spec model shown. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. ©2021 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved.
ISSUE 63 November 2021
November 2021
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Issue 63
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2021 Husqvarna 701 Enduro
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JUST DO IT! Upshift Staff
What kind of traveler are you? As adventure riders, we like to think that when we mount up for a trip we are throwing caution to the wind and heading into the unknown. But are we really? GPS routing, tour guides, internet research, and online reservations are all tools we use to plan our travels. We know what we are getting into and what to expect. Is that a real adventure? It all depends on your comfort zone. Unexpected weather and poor road conditions might be enough for some to feel uneasy; for others, it is delays or mechanicals that push the limits. Then there are those that wing it and take it as it comes. Even the most organized trip planner daydreams of doing this at least once, although they may never admit it. A recent trip from Idaho through Utah taught us that throwing all plans in the trash is one of the best strategies for adventure riding. We had tents, sleeping bags, water, and a general idea of which direction to point our bikes. No firm schedule was set other than we needed to be at the shop on Monday, and that was eight days away. As habitual planners, we were a bit outside of our comfort zone. We found our way to a late 19th-century hotel with creaking floors in Utah, epic riding and camping in Moab, and a night under a thunderstorm in Zion National Park. The freedom to decide to stop and explore made for memories that won’t fade anytime soon. From here on out, no plan is the plan for my adventure rides. I implore all of you to pack up your bike, point in a direction that seems interesting, and just go. Leave the map in the saddlebags, turn off the GPS and phone and see what you might find. Get out there, open your eyes and experience the places you go to the fullest. Quoting Ralph Waldo Emerson loosely, “it’s about the journey, not the destination.”
RADE/GARAGE Husqvarna 701 - KTM 690 Adventure R Rally Tower The RADE/GARAGE team is pleased to announce the finished and full availability of our newly developed carbon fiber rally kits for Husqvarna 701 and KTM 690 Adventure R. Building on our years of experience providing light, yet stiff and sturdy towers for Dakar racers we decided to upgrade the existing Aluminum products. The carbon’s significant weight savings improve riding characteristics and allowed us to improve reliability and longevity by innovating the design. For example, we can reinforce the carbon fiber and composite with stainless steel in areas experiencing more stress. Unlike aluminum there is not material fatigue, and we can eliminate micro-cracks where aluminum bends. The entire tower weighs 600g (1.32lb) vs 1400g (3.08lb). These new materials have been used in Formula1, aerospace and other advanced applications. Cost is usually one of the main barriers to mass usage, but we eliminated that by designing and manufacturing our own advanced molds. The rally kits are price competitive with other Aluminum based products at $1489. To eliminate the unknowns for our customers we offer a lifetime guarantee for these towers. Results of our destruction tests can be viewed here. To find out more details or purchase, please visit www.radegarage.com
Yoshimura Introduces Micro Combo LED Signals Introducing our smallest most versatile signal yet! Don’t let the size fool you, our Micro Signals are some of if not the brightest signals on the market. This signal kit also works as a brake light and a running light...what a bright idea! Yoshimura Micro Signals are great for bikes where you want the signals tucked in out of harms way. For example they’re great for Dual Sport applications, just drill a 6mm mounting hole in the rear fender and voila! Or, we also offer an optional Universal Micro Turn Signal Bracket made from laser cut stainless steel, then powder coated for a durable finish that mounts to the license plate on most bikes. Made in the USA. MSRP: $129.00 www.yoshimura-rd.com
ANY TRAIL. ANY TIME. legendary gear. reflective webbing. wolfmanluggage.com
2O22
RACE EDITION
4-Stroke | 350 | 390 | 430 | 480
On-Demand Power & Traction Control
>> Six Speed Transmission >> Billet Aluminum Footpegs >> On-Demand Traction Control >> Dual Material Rear Sprocket >> Refined KYB Closed Cartridge Forks >> Metzeler Six Days Off-Road Tires >> Front Axle Pull for Quick Tire Changes >> Off Road Light & Meter Package >> Smooth 4-stroke Power Delivery >> The Lightest Feeling 4-Stroke Range Ever Produced
Kriega R22 Backpack The R22 is the ultimate versatile mid-size pack offering 18 litres of waterproof storage in addition to a 4 liter quick access front pocket. Long-term durability comes from a 420D Cordura® and Nylon Ripstop construction, all built on Kriega’s groundbreaking Quadloc-Lite™ fully adjustable harness. The feature-rich R22 has the perfect mix of style and functionality, instantly recognizable as an iconic backpack by all-weather riders. MSRP: $219.00. kriega.us Features • The Quadloc-Lite™ harness transfers weight from the shoulders to • the chest and body, giving all-day riding comfort • Waterproof main body - 18 liter Dry-pack • 4 liter front pocket storage for easy-access items • Air-mesh back panel for rider comfort • Removable internal white liner (taped-seam) • Reflective panels on the harness, reflective logo on rear • Four compression straps keep the load stable • Removable waist strap • Hydration reservoir compatible
Fire Power Featherweight Lithium Battery Fire Power Featherweight Lithium Batteries are a leap forward in motorcycle battery technology. They feature extremely lightweight lithium ion polymers that weight up to 70% less than conventional lead acid and AGM batteries. But performance has not been sacrificed for this weight savings but only increased. Each Fire Power Lithium Battery packs more cold cranking amps, longer cycle life and can be charged to 90% capacity in only 6 minutes. It even has a built-in LED test gauge so you can stay in the know about your battery. MSRP: Starting at $96.95. www.firepowerparts.com • Lithium Ion Polymer technology • All components are designed, manufactured, assembled and packed in one location assuring high quality and consistency • Extremely lightweight, 50% to 70% lighter than standard batteries • Built-in LED test gauge • Increased cranking amps over lead acid batteries • Fast recharge, can be brought up to a 90% charge within 6 minutes • Easily 6 to 12 times more cycle life compared to lead acid batteries • Long shelf life, up to 1 year before requiring recharging • Can be mounted in any position • No hazardous acid or heavy metals, non-explosive and non-combustible • More precise fitments compared to other brands of lithium batteries • 2 Year warranty
EXPERIENCE THE V-STROM AT
SUZUKICYCLES.COM/ADVENTURE
Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2021 Suzuki Motor USA, LLC.
STAY FULLY CONNECTED
Behind a big, bright LED headlight is a large, multifunction instrument panel that displays the information you want on a bright, LCD screen. The adjoining USB power port and mounting bar is ready for your favorite navigation or entertainment accessories.
GO ANYWHERE ADVENTURE PACKAGE
Choose the V-STROM 1050XT Adventure to take the gear you need and ride in comfort with Suzuki’s quick-release, aluminum pannier set, heated handgrips, and a set of LED fog lamps.
RIDE WITH COMFORT & EASE
Ride-by-Wire dual electronic throttle assemblies provide light, precise response for tight roads and trails while the Cruise Control system helps you make short work of long miles. Takeoffs from inclines are a breeze with the Hill Hold Control system.
SUZUKI’S INTELLIGENT RIDE SYSTEM
Tame any road or trail as you tailor the power delivery through the multi-mode Drive Mode Selector and Traction Control* systems, while tuning braking response with the two-level adjustable Motion Track Anti-lock Brake** system.
BIG V-TWIN POWER
The 90-degree, V-Twin engine has more peak power than ever before while maintaining its strong pull off the bottom and superb fuel economy allowing you to go the distance.
The Traction Control System is not a substitute for the rider’s throttle control. It cannot prevent loss of traction due to excessive speed when the rider enters a turn and/or applies the brakes. Neither can it prevent the front wheel from losing grip. **Depending on road surface conditions, such as wet, loose, or uneven roads, braking distance for an ABS-equipped vehicle may be longer than for a vehicle not equipped with ABS. ABS cannot prevent wheel skidding caused by braking while cornering. Please ride carefully and do not overly rely on ABS. Model shown with optional accessories. *
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THE BENCHMARK FOR MAXIMUM OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE. Versatile and agile, with a premium specification, the Tiger 900 Rally range delivers incredible off-road capability, with phenomenal power and performance, and a dominant adventure-focused stance for maximum off-road adventure riding and all-road comfort and style. The Tiger 900 Rally and higher specification Rally Pro both feature a lightweight adventure chassis, advanced technology and premium equipment, plus a high capacity 900cc triple engine, delivering impressive torque low down, with overall peak power at 94 HP. Find out more, visit TriumphMotorcycles.com
THE ULTIMATE ADVENTURE PA Performance and reliability. The results of a close racing and development partnership between MOTOREX and KTM. #Raceproven quality.
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GOING SOLO - WASHINGTON BDR BY JOHN T. YOUNG
I’m a firm believer that you can’t put the sticker on your bike if you haven’t used the product. Sometimes the cost of that logo is minimal, like a $10 liter of oil. For others the cost is high, like the $4,000 plus price tag of my little green WABDR sticker. Of course the real question is, “Is it worth it?” In June I asked Mosko Moto what it’s really like in Washington as they went through an unprecedented heatwave with temperatures above 100°F. They said I might want to wait before tackling the 600 mile Washington Backcountry Discovery Route (WABDR). I reply, “I’ll see you in a few days.” Washington is 1200 miles from Colorado. To save wear on my CRF450L’s knobbies, I loaded it onto the bumper of my Tacoma, then hit the highway right after work. I stopped for the night in Utah at a sketchy fleabag motel that smelled like a Saturday night gone bad: Tequila, perfume, and bleach. Three hours later someone steals my bike off the back of the truck and tries to jimmy the ignition with a nail. Thankfully he’s run off by another guest before he figures out how to start it. I attempt to get some more sleep with the bike safe in my room, but it’s no use, so I drive on.
600 miles later I park at Mosko Moto’s Bates Mototel, a special place they have created just for moto travelers. I’m greeted by Mosko Bear, who looks about how one would expect him to look, in a good way. Bear shows me around the place, which would have been a biker’s heaven, except for the thermometer reading 113F. I wake at 7AM. It’s cooled off to 80F. I ache everywhere. Bear, who is living at the Mototel, is cheerful as ever. I show him where I hide my truck keys “just in case”, and ride out. The WABDR begins on the Bridge Of the Gods. My knobbies hum as I motor through the open airy structure. I feel I’m finally on my journey. At the end I make a right-hand turn and... the tablet I use for navigation goes black. WTF? My fancy USB port has died. Since it’s my only source of juice for my electronics, I kind of need it. One mile into the WABDR and I’m on the sidewalk in front of a NAPA in the shade of a tree cobbling together an SAE connector, car cigarette lighter, USB adapter, and a roll of tape. Then I’m off again. Again. Washington is beautiful, even when it’s 110F. Mt Adams, Mt Rainier, glaciated volcanoes spot the horizon. Riding its open ridges gives me spectacular views in all directions. Sections 1 through 4 are green and gold.
Section 5: Coming down off Hungry Ridge my speedometer reads 0 MPH. Huh? The bike starts sputtering, then dies. I coast into a big camping spot. Now it won’t even turn over, and I have no cell signal. I always carry a jump-start battery, just in case. I find I can jump it, but it won’t run for more than a few minutes. The system is putting out 9 volts. Stator? In the event I don’t make it, I shoot a “Last Will and Testament” video. As I roll silently to the bottom of the hill, I’m worried but still moving forward. At the bottom is a paved road, but still no signal. I’m thinking “Now what?” when a blue Chevy pickup towing a trailer with a DRZ on it pulls up. “Need some help?” Blue Chevy asks. We load my overloaded dirt bike and we’re off, though, where to, I don’t know. Blue Chevy is willing to get me to a town with services, but that’s all he can offer. Half an hour ago I was shooting a video for the strangers who would eventually find my half-eaten corpse, so I’m ok with whatever help he can give. We end up in the tiny town of Twisp on a Sunday evening. Blue Chevy waves goodbye and I start calling for help on social media. I also text some folks who I know will do whatever it takes to rescue a fellow nomad, Pete and Ashley from Mosko Moto. She comes up with the perfect solution: Bear will drive my truck the 8 hours from the Mototel to Twisp, the next day. It’s 117F, so I wrangle a room at the “Full” Twisp River Inn. Turns out the owner’s son lives in Colorado, up the road from me. I sleep for 12 hours. While I wait for Bear I hang out in a cafe’. As long as I’m a paying customer I hope they won’t kick me out. I use their WiFi to field questions about my situation. At noon a Pride Parade goes by that seems to have more people in it than could possibly live in town. I follow it to a park where there’s a band playing. In support, I buy a can of Purple Bubly Water and send a selfie to my Granddaughter. She loves it.
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THE ARAI DIFFERENCE: GLANCING OFF At Arai, protecting the rider is the single most important element in any helmet they produce. The kinetic energy generated by a crash can be avoided or minimized by glancing off objects. Glancing off is the ability to avoid sending energy directly into the helmet and Arai believes this is one of the most important performance characteristics of a helmet. Protect what is priceless. No helmet can protect the wearer against all foreseeable impacts. Nothing is a substitute for safe riding practices. ©2021 Arai Helmet
As the town begins to close up Bear arrives to rescue me and my unbreakable broken bike. He will forever be my hero. Back in Colorado, I pull the stator and sure enough, it is burnt up. I believe I overloaded it by running my portable air pump, then accidentally turning everything else on high. Or maybe the kid who tried to steal my bike messed something up? I send the stator out to Ricky Stator who sends it back better than new. I’m going to finish the last of the WABDR, no matter the cost. I wasn’t through with it until I had ridden all 600 miles to Canada and could honestly apply that green sticker. Little did I know, Washington wasn’t through with me either. September - I leave right after work again but this time I stop at a nice hotel with a brightly lit parking lot. Back in Washington the temps are in the 70s. I stay at the Mototel again where I’m the only one there. No Bear. Day 1: I go over the bike, twice, and discover that the gauge which reads battery voltage is dead. I set off anyway. I hold my breath as I ride across the bridge, through Stevenson, past my shade tree. I let it out when everything is still working. The weather is wonderful! The forecast is for rain in a few days, but for now I just enjoy the smooth dirt roads through Gifford Pinchot National Forest. I launch my drone just short of an incredible view of Mt Hood. When it works, it follows me like a blue puppy. When it doesn’t, every twig becomes an insurmountable obstacle. I manage to put together what I think will be a beautiful flight up the forested road ending with the drone flying off a cliff towards a distant volcano. The footage will be priceless! Section 2 follows Bethel Ridge, one of the prettiest stretches of the WABDR. Unfortunately, when I get to the turn-off the road is closed due to forest fires. I ride north, thinking to sneak in from the other end, but over the course of an hour three things change my plans. First is the call for heavy rain over the next two days; a ridge is the last place I want to be in a thunderstorm. Second is an unexpected text from an old Mountain Guide friend who asks if I will be at the Touratech Rally in Plain, WA. He lives a few minutes away and wants me to visit; maybe stay the night. I didn’t even know there was a rally. The third thing that clinches my plans is an Instant Message from Mike Spurgin of Taco Moto Co. He is at the rally, and if I show up, lunch is on him. Kismet?
I mosey my way to the Touratech Rally and find Mike hanging out with Kelly from Trail Tech. Brian from Pacific Power Sports stops by and notices my moto has a fairly used set of Motoz Rallzs. This is the 3rd set I’ve bought from him to conquer BDRs. He insists the rear is too worn and has a new one installed. Mike does an interview with my motorcycle while Kelly and I discuss the (dis)advantages of using a $100 Samsung tablet for navigation. Throughout the day I meet a ton of viewers of my YouTube channel and talk about CRF450Ls, moto camping, and riding BDRs. As predicted it rains on and off, but in meeting so many new faces, I barely notice. About the time the rain settles in to stay, I ride off to visit my friend Dave. It’s great to catch up with him after 15 years of stalking each other on FaceBook. With beer in my belly, I sleep great. I wheel into the clearing on Section 5 where, last time I was here, I was sure the bears would fight over my tastier bits. That breakdown had shattered my illusion that my Honda was bombproof, but had also taught me that if I really needed it, help was out there. I leave in a better mood. It makes sense that you should back up your footage every day, just in case. Just in case your drone flies off into the woods never to be seen again with all your irreplaceable volcano footage. I spend 3 hours searching the burnt forest where I last saw it flying, wondering why Washington hated me. I give up and move on.
An hour later I round a corner and ride right into the most stunning display of land and sky I may ever see. Bright yellow sunlight broken by white scattered clouds has shadows racing across the valley in front of me. The next morning, still sore over the loss of my drone, but psyched to get the last section completed, my iPhone’s camera decides it too has had enough and refuses to focus. When I finally tag Canada, instead of feeling elated, I am leery. As I apply the WABDR sticker to my swingarm I reflect on the cost of that 2-inch square sticker: 5500 miles of gas, hotels, tire wear, a drone, an iPhone camera, 4 weeks of vacation. But I don’t add it up. I remind myself that I’m only halfway done and still have to get back to my truck. On my way to visit Mt. Rainier NP, heading south on Highway 90 at 75MPH, my handlebar-mounted GoPro breaks off as I’m adjusting it. One second it is in my fingers, the next it is bouncing down the blacktop. I spin around and motor slowly back down the shoulder. At this point I would be delighted to find it in pieces, but with the SD card intact. 2 hours, one state trooper visit, and untold forsaken shoes later, I find it scratched but otherwise whole. Instead of stopping for the night, I chug some random energy drink and make my escape in a blur of movement through the dark, until I’m safe at the Mototel after a 400 mile day. Back in Colorado I download the photos and videos, the survivors anyway, and reminisce about the trip. Volcanoes erupting from golden landscapes. Snowcapped Cascade Mountain Range stretching on forever. Deep all-pervasive green of the forests. Trees that tower impossibly high. That amazing valley bathed in shifting sunbeams. The Rally in the rain and meeting Mike, Kelly, Brian, and so many others. Drinking beer with Dave. An economist discussing those photos and memories might tell you that they were worth what the market would bear, that the memories die with you and are therefore worthless. A poet would say that those combinations of Earth, Wind, Fire, Water, and Spirit could never combine in just the same way again and are therefore priceless. I have spent my life forging ahead, aware of the cost and the consequences, but rarely ever stopping to total them up, for what is the price of living a remarkable life? And trust me, there is a price, but I never do the math.
BY TRAVIS GILL OF VIAJARMOTO.COM
It was a perfect spring morning with temperatures nearly ideal for riding. The ventilation zippers on our jackets were closed, but we could ride comfortably with our summer gloves and our helmet visors open. The early morning sun casted long shadows of us riding our pair of G650GS motorcycles across fields of golden-yellow wheat that grew along the shores of Lake Ohrid. After reaching the small North Macedonian border station, we provided our standard documentation: passport, registration, and insurance. The only problem was that we didn’t have insurance for Macedonia. We knew it would be a problem but assumed we could purchase it at the border – just like we did with the previous three Balkan countries. The border guard tried to explain but we could not understand Macedonian or Albanian – the two major languages of North Macedonia. We waited patiently as he tapped out a message onto the tiny screen of his smartphone. His message was clear: “No insurance available here. Must go to border at Kjafasan.” It was our own fault. We didn’t check our iOverlander app before attempting to cross the border. Had we checked, we would have known that this small border crossing doesn’t sell the required insurance. Fortunately, Kjafasan was only 45 minutes away and it was a good excuse to continue enjoying our morning ride along the shores of the magnificent Lake Ohrid.
ONE OF THE OLDEST LAKES IN THE WORLD Lake Ohrid, shared between eastern Albania and southwestern North Macedonia, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to the historical significance, unique freshwater species, and wetland habitats that provide winter homes for hundreds of thousands of migratory birds. As we rode around the entire perimeter of the lake, we made sure to stop regularly to take in the wonderful views of clear blue water, wetland shores, and snow covered mountains. Highlights included the coastal city of Ohrid, the Bay of Bones Museum, and the Monastery of St. Naum. Within the city of Ohrid, we learned a bit of history during a guided tour of the Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon. This Byzantine church was built in the early 10th century, but underwent numerous reconstructions during its often tumultuous Ottoman period. Today it stands prominently on a hill overlooking Lake Ohrid and continues to be one of the most sacred sites for Macedonian Orthodox Christians. Within these church walls, Saint Clement became a prominent scholar, writer, and educator who is credited for his collaboration in creating the Cyrillic script that is currently used throughout North Macedonia, Russia, and other Slavic countries. North Macedonia was the first country where we noticed that a majority of the signs were in Cyrillic, making it difficult to make sense of them due to our westernized education and use of Latin script. Fortunately many signs continued to use obvious symbols. As we continued south along the eastern coast of Lake Ohrid, we came across a sign that read “Bay of Bones”, purposely written in Latin to entice western tourists like ourselves. It worked! We made a turn into the parking lot and were rewarded with an interesting archaeological complex located on the excavation site of Ploca Micov Kamen. This area was a site of a Bronze Age culture, dating back between 1200 and 700 BC, that lived in wooden and mud homes built on top of wooden pylons above the shallow shore. The name comes from the many animal bones that were found here along with fragmented but well preserved vessels.
Just a little further south, near the border of Albania, is the impressively stunning Monastery of Saint Naum, dedicated to another influential medieval saint. Saint Naum studied alongside Saint Clement and the two of them worked together to create the Cyrillic Script and literary schools throughout the region. Saint Naum went on to become a key figure in the establishment of the medieval Bulgarian Empire. Walking among the monastery grounds and taking in the views of lush green gardens, blue waters of the nearby Lake Ohrid, and enjoying the colorful peacocks, was a highlight of our visit there. These peacocks, symbolizing resurrection, renewal and immortality, seemed to enjoy strutting their technicolored blue and green feathers, much to the delight of the tourists. DISCOVERING BYZANTINE HISTORY While exploring some roads northeast of Shtip, we came across a sign for the archaeological site of Bargale. Chantil and I looked at each other, nodded our heads, and said “Why not?” After parking our mules in the dirt parking lot, we looked around for any signs of people or some sort of ticket booth. Nothing. We carefully peered around a large stone archway into what appeared to be an ancient town inside a low-walled fortification. Was this ancient site really just open for the public to explore? We were soon greeted by a medium-sized, tan and white dog that seemed to be the only resident of this ancient town. Chantil reached for her doggie treats and before long we had made a new friend that seemed to show us around to all the stone foundations, columns, bath areas, and even a intricate mosaic covered with fabric and dirt to protect it from the winter season. It turns out we were walking among the ancient town of Bargale. This region of southwestern Europe was once part of the expansive and far-reaching Roman Empire. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, in the 5th century, the Eastern Romans endured as the Byzantine Empire. Bargale, developed sometime between the 4th and 6th centuries, was now our own personal museum with a stray dog acting as our guide. We decided to name our new friend “Flora” after the Roman goddess of flowers and spring.
MAKEDONIUM Towards the central part of the country, we enjoyed riding along narrow and twisty mountain roads towards another tourist destination known as the Ilinden Memorial, or simply Makedonium. This is an example of Brutalist Architecture which gets its name from the French term béton brut which means “raw concrete”. This style of modern architecture was popular after the 1950s and can be found throughout the Balkan region, especially in monuments dedicated to anti-fascism. The Makedonium was built to honor the resistance fighters of the Ilinden Uprising of 1903 against the Ottoman Empire and the Partisan fighters that fought against the occupation of Axis and fascist forces during WWII. Architects Jordan and Israel Grabul, a Macedonian husband and wife team, intended the structure to be abstract and open to the interpretation of the viewer. The monument is definitely unique and some have likened it to a heart valve or a virus. Regardless of your interpretation, the Makedonium is definitely unique and represents an escape from the clutches of the past. During our visit, we enjoyed walking inside the large expansive interior, and marveling at the four elliptical stained-glass windows that represent the four seasons and bathe the floor and white-washed walls in a sparkling array of beautiful colors. Additionally there are abstract reliefs that explain the history of Macedonia to include its birth, conflicts of the 20th century, and its future – represented by the shining sun, a symbol of freedom, and the national flag.
SKOPJE - AN INTERESTING MIX OF HISTORY The capital city of Skopje seemed to be a hodgepodge of influences. The conquests of the ancient Greeks, Alexander the Great, Slavic tribes, and the Serbian Empire have all left their history here. Most recently, a project called Skopje 2014 was developed to give the capital city a more classical feel. However, it was a classic example of “trying to please everyone and pleasing no one” that ended up over-budget and leaving the capital city with an odd mix of architecture and controversial monuments and statues. As we walked among the city center, we tried to make sense of it all. It felt like a suicide – a mix of beverages from the drink machine at a fast-food restaurant. It was a bizarre mix of renaissance-style sculptures, Balkan influences, mixed with a bit of contemporary art, all smashed together with a hint of neon lights! The experience was bizarre, difficult to comprehend, but also interesting.
Skopje is also the birth place of Mary Teresa Bojaxhiu, better known as Mother Teresa. She was baptized and received her first communion at a small Catholic Church in the spot where the Memorial House of Mother Teresa now stands. Visitors can enjoy a museum that celebrates the life of this extraordinary woman who dedicated her life to helping the poor and the creation of the Missionaries of Charity – an organization established to help less fortunate people, without charge, and regardless of their religious or social status. Her inspiring legacy is currently over 5,000 religious sisters strong and operates in over 130 countries – truly inspiring!
KEEP ON ROLLIN’ It was during our time in Skopje that we realized we would need new tires if we planned to continue overlanding. Our long-wearing and trusty Heidenau K60 Scouts had served us well during the first half of the year, but they were quickly reaching the end of their life. Getting tires in a foreign country can often be a difficult process, especially in the remote areas of the eastern Balkans. We contacted numerous motorcycle dealers throughout the region, but could not find any Heidenau K60s. We ended up finding two pairs of Pirelli Scorpion STRs and got them fitted in Skopje. Although we typically like a tire with a little more bite, we plan on traveling more pavement as we continue to explore more of the Balkan regions and beyond. Here’s to another 12,000+ miles as we continue our European adventure… About viajarMOTO: Travis and Chantil Gill started full-time motorcycle overlanding in early 2020 and plan to continue traveling until they make it around the world. You can follow them on their website: www.viajarMOTO.com.
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FEEL THOSE COLD CRISP DAYS CREAPING IN? RIDING SEASON ISN’T OVER UNTIL YOU SAY IT IS. LAYER UP AND GET OUT THERE.
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BY CHAD DE ALVA
CHRIS BIRCH - SAY NO To SLOW If the name Chris Birch doesn’t ring a bell, please take a minute and go consult the internet. There’s a video on KTM’s YouTube channel where Chris is riding the new 1290 Super Adventure R that is definitely worth watching. The man is just as talented on a dirt bike and his off-road racing resume includes: three times Roof of Africa winner, eight times New Zealand Enduro Overall Champion, Romaniacs winner, Dakar finisher, Erzberg, Last Man Standing, Hells Gate, and a pile of other gnarly races. Chris also happens to be an outstanding off-road riding instructor and he has produced two series of instructional riding videos: one for ADV riders and the other for dirt bike riders. The ADV video series is available through Vimeo’s Video On Demand service, and it may be one of the best things money can buy for ADV riders. Say No to Slow – ADV Bike Training is a 16-part video series that starts with basic bike setup and culminates with power slides to create one of the most comprehensive and enjoyable series of videos on ADV riding out there. Each major topic is covered in its own video, so you don’t have to remember timestamps or try to scrub through a movie-length video to find the information you’re looking for. One topic, one video. It’s as simple as that. Chris does a great job teaching to a camera, and his experience as an instructor is evident from the start of the first video. His style of presentation is effective at communicating information, so even if you were the kid in school who always fell asleep while the teacher droned on, know that even when you’re dead tired these videos will keep you engaged. The videos are well shot, edited, and do a great job providing powerful visuals to compliment what Chris is talking about. Thanks to good camera work, you can actually see what’s going on – you can see the bike responding to Chris’ inputs as he’s rallying through sandy corners, and watch his body position make fractional corrections as he’s navigating up rutted tracks. Know that production quality is not a limiting factor to the value provided by these videos. In fact, I’d argue that in some ways, these videos provide a better ‘view’ of what’s going on than attending an in-person class. Plus you can always rewind and replay as many times as needed. Power slides are rad, but I appreciate that they are the last video in the series. All riders no matter their skill level, can benefit from starting with or going back to the basics, which is exactly how the series of videos begins. Starting with bike setup, Chris covers how to make sure your bike isn’t working against you, and he provides information on what kit he carries and uses on his various ADV bikes. Don’t skip this one – I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen an ADV bike out on the wild with some weird farkle or setup choice that makes the bike harder to ride.
PHOTOS: CHAD DE ALVA, Nick Fletcher
RIDING TIPS: CHRIS BIRCH - SAY NO TO SLOW With bike setup complete, Chris moves into foot position and body position, before getting into topics like accelerating and braking, and cornering. Each successive video builds on the previous one, so it’s important to make sure to go through the videos in order at least once. Otherwise, if Chris mentions techniques from an earlier video, it’s always a good call to go back and watch that video one more time just to make sure you’re still tracking on what he’s talking about. In these videos that comprise the meat of the series, I really appreciate how Chris shows you static and dynamic examples where you see him standing on the bike with the kickstand, and then him out riding demonstrating the same technique. Here is where the video series shines, as you always have a front row seat to the action, and you can replay any part as many times as you want- which is something that can’t happen with in person instruction. The only downside I can find to learning riding skills though a video series is that I have no instant way to ask Birchy a question, should I find myself wanting more information on a topic. That being said, Chris does such a good job explaining things and breaking things down into consumable bits that I had almost no questions throughout the entire series. Watching videos is great, but to get the most out of them you need to get out there and actually practice the skills featured, meaning you need to go do the same thing over and over until you’ve got it dialed. Simply telling yourself that “I’m going to nail that one climb that’s kind of spicy on today’s ride” isn’t anywhere near as effective of a learning tool as sessioning that same climb 20 times or riding in circles for hours to brush up on your cornering technique. I’m not saying that you need to turn every ride into a training only ride, but just take some time to practice even one skill on a ride and you’ll be stoked on the impact that makes. What’s awesome about the Video On Demand aspect of this series is that you can download all of the videos and take them out in the field with you. Working on crossing logs, but forgot exactly what Chris was saying? Haul out your phone and watch the video before getting some more practice in. It’s always amusing to me how riders won’t hesitate to spend $100 on some anodized farkle that does nothing other than add bling to their bikes, but they’ll cry and whine about spending even a few bucks on something that can actually help them become better riders. So let me be clear – spending money on learning to become a better rider is money well spent for any kind of riding. At the time of publishing, Say No to Slow – ADV Bike Training is all of $35 USD. This has got to be one of the best deals out there considering what you get for the cost of a couple of tanks of gas in California.
RIDING TIPS: CHRIS BIRCH - SAY NO TO SLOW
RIDING TIPS: CHRIS BIRCH - SAY NO TO SLOW Say No to Slow – ADV Bike Training is worth every penny and every second of your time. It’s a comparatively small investment that has the potential to make a profound impact in your riding abilities. Whether you’re new to the ADV thing or you’ve been riding for years, there is something here for every rider, and I can’t recommend these videos enough. Just check your ego in case you’ve been riding with bad habits, take the time to practice what you’ve learned, and then get ready to find even more enjoyment with your ADV bikes. Say No to Slow – ADV Bike Training is available through Vimeo’s Video On Demand service: Watch Say No to Slow - ADV Bike Training Online | Vimeo On Demand on Vimeo
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Imagine riding giant white sand dunes bordered by the Pacific Ocean on one side and giant redwood trees on the other. That is what we experienced on our recent photo trip to the Umpqua Dunes on Oregon’s central coast.
Unloading our 500cc KTM and Husqvarna machines in the morning mist, we wondered if we had made a mistake by not fitting paddle tires to our bikes. As we hit the dunes for the first time, we were happy to find that, as long as you picked a good line and also kept your speed up, the dual-sport machines were quite capable of getting around the twenty-plus mile-long swath of sand dunes.
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The scenery in this area is just incredible, and once the morning fog burned off, we got the full impact of the glistening Pacific in the distance. The ocean breeze kept us cool, as riding in the dunes does require quite an effort, and if the temps were much higher, we would have got a little heated.
The terrain in the Oregon Dunes changed from fast harder packed sand to full deep dune sides where if you weren’t committed, you could easily take a tumble and get that “sand in the teeth” feeling. It turns out the key to riding sand is momentum and never chopping the throttle, as your speed drops dramatically if you let off the gas.
With the town of Winchester Bay literally next door, there are plenty of places to stay. In addition, there are many campgrounds nearby if you decide to bring a rig and spend a few days exploring this beautiful area. We will definitely be coming back here soon and hopefully spend more time exploring this seemingly endless riding area.
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Bolivia - The road in the sky
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY MICHNUS OLIVIER
During the planning stage for our South American trip, the countries Peru, Chile and Colombia were always mentioned as must ride places. Bolivia was mentioned in passing by people as a gateway country simply to get to Chile and Peru, another stamp to your passport. Of course there is the Salar de Uyuni, the largest salt lake on Earth, but we had also heard about the higher fuel prices for foreign vehicles, the dash along the Lagunas route, a quick stopover in La Paz, but not much else from expert overlanders. We enter Bolivia from Paraguay on the South-Eastern border; the only ones there. It is a tiny border post. Dogs are the only ones to acknowledge our arrival, lazily lifting their heads, not bothered to get up nor out of the road. Tumbleweeds literally roll past, like a scene from a spaghetti western, some bouncing off the dogs on their windswept way out of Bolivia. As we rode into Bolivia along the dirt road, the mother of all thunderstorms dumped an ocean of water turning roads into a rocky muddy river. The going was slow and it took us the rest of the day to get to Villamontes. The next day no more than 10 km out of Villamontes on the road to Tarija, we had our first taste of Bolivian rural road hazards. The road follows the river with some places with terrifying drop-offs. Sections of road are carved into the rock face. As luck would have it we arrived at a landslide where locals with old oily, knackered, dirt-covered, earth-moving machines frantically slogged to try and clear a landslide, which has wiped away a part of the road. By late afternoon the road workers had created a narrow space for motorcycles to pass between a stuck truck and the vertical drop to the river some 1312ft (400m) below.
The dirt road from Tarija to Tupiza is the stuff adventure riding dreams are made of. This is a perfect example of why we ride adventure bikes! On motorcycles you can reach and explore places where tourist busses never go, and we have the freedom to pause whenever we like. We rode over the mountains at more than 13800ft (4200m) altitude. Stopping at the top we watched the road snake up the side of the mountain like the mythical Amaru, serpent god of the Americas. Eventually riding into Tupiza, the roads were packed with local families waiting for a local parade to kick-off the afternoon partying. The mood was loud, unadulterated party fun, with vendors pushing carts selling all kinds of food and drinks. Kids were having a blast spraying everyone with jets of foam, water balloon fights, and adults as collateral damage, all part of the fun. By the time the parade arrived most of the adult participants were tipsy. Monday, we hit the road out of Tupiza, aiming to reach the Lagunas and Reserve Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo on the Altiplano close to the Chilean border. From close to the Argentinean border we’ll head west across the country towards Chile and the most southerly point of Bolivia. From the “lesser traveled routes” this one is on the list of “very rarely traveled routes.” Well that was our plan anyway. Reserve Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo is tucked away in the southwestern corner of Bolivia and is the name of the park that borders Chile and Argentina. It is home to the vicuña, James’s flamingos and the yareta plant, all of which are globally threatened species. It is an inhospitable place at 13123ft -16400ft (4000m-5000m) above sea level. There are no trees, just vast open plains with the vicuñas (llama-like animals) roaming around aimlessly with flamingos that feed in shallow, vividly pink-coloured lakes. We would ride sections that are rarely visited due to their remoteness. Hopefully our decision would result in spectacular views and the kind of challenging off-road riding Elsebie and I both love.
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While eating breakfast the hostel owner asked us what our plans were. “We saw a track on Maps.me as Google maps does not have any roads for this area”, I said. Only satellite view helps a little bit. It took some time to track and follow the line on Map.me to make sure the lines that run straight from Tupiza to the Lagunas actually connect. Alternatively we had to ride north to Sucre, then Uyuni and then Lagunas which would be double the distance and mostly boring asphalt. The entire idea was to explore and ride unknown places. “This is not a good idea.” he said while sipping his coffee. “The rain will make that route near impossible. Furthermore, that road is not a well-used route. It’s in very bad condition and not maintained, it is a 4x4 track. You will have to make a plan for fuel as there is none, and even the big fuel tanks you have on your motorcycles will not be enough. It’s nearly a 620miles (1000km) loop to get to the Lagunas, and then out to Uyuni. One or two places sometimes sell fuel from cans, but you can’t depend on that,” he concluded. Well, while we were searching for a route our helpful hostel owner had asked a local tour operator, from Tupiza, if they would be able to take fuel for us to two different villages. This operator would be escorting some tourists heading for Uyuni a few days later. We’re hoping that 14gl (50litres) at each point will be enough. Of course we still had to carry extra fuel in plastic bottles if we were to even reach the fuel sites. We have never carried specialized fuel containers on any of our trips. Most eventually spring a leak and cost a fortune. Our hack is to use discarded ,05gl (2ℓ) cola bottles and return them to the trash once we are done with them. Aside from the usual gear in our luggage we also have cookies, 1gl (4litres) of water and a few extra cans of spam. When we are loaded to the max we can carry 2,64gl (10litres) of additional fuel each but no more.
Tupiza lies between two mountain ranges at a height 9350ft (2850m). Just 18miles (30km) outside town we were already riding at an altitude of over 13123ft (4000m). The gravel road started just outside of town with a beautiful multi-hairpin mountain pass. This area in Southern Bolivia and Northern Argentina is home to massive red and orange rock spires that tower into the air like nature’s own version of the La Sagrada Familia cathedral in Barcelona. The surface had become saturated with water, making it a bit of a snotty muddy ride. We were grateful that the really boggy stuff came in brief spurts of panic. Otherwise we would not have been able to keep up the pace needed to reach our first town. We wanted to cover at least 190miles (300km) that day. This bastard of roads carried on through a breathtaking, colour saturated, almost Martian landscape. Snow-capped stratovolcanoes reach up into space. Around us the rolling foothills were covered in a short grassy carpet. At this altitude, the crisp and clean air makes for vivid and sharp images wherever we looked. The first river crossing, a big one, about 660ft (200m) across, made us for a brief moment consider turning back. De hell with it, we did it! The road entered the muddy water, the kind that sucks a wheel in and kills it. We are reasonably acclimated to riding at this altitude, but it would still be exhausting to drag a motorcycle out of mud at an altitude of 14763ft (4500m.) We found another track lower down the river. I got off my bike and started walking into the river where it seemed to be the shallowest. My boots sank into the mud, but underneath it felt firm enough. Back on the bike I take a run-up and nail it down the short slippery bank into the river. The engine immediately complained about the drag from the water and whacking open the throttle does little. At these altitudes an old carbureted DR650 breathes like an asthmatic mouse through a straw. Elsebie chose a line next to mine, not wanting to ride in my disturbed track. Unfortunately, she went straight into a patch of deep sticky mud. In an instant her bike bogged down to its axles.
Nearly an hour later, heaving with shortness of breath, Elsebie climbed back on and opened the throttle wide, spraying a curtain of mud behind her and pulled free and ploughed through the river. We were shattered and wondered if the next river would be worse, and if, would we have the strength to cross it. One can never be sure whether you are riding out of trouble, or deeper into it. We crossed another two rivers later that day with nearly the same outcomes, but our troubled thoughts faded as we rode past our first lake with pink and turquoise water. A volcano with low-hanging clouds resembling a fluffy carpet were perfectly reproduced on the mirror surface of the lake. The roads on the Andean plateau are rutted and sandy with deep corrugations. We stopped often to allow the shock absorbers to cool down. We knew from experience that this type of road can kill a shock in no time at all if you do not take care. Ten hours later we rode into the wind-blasted and desolated village of Quetena Chico. The owner of our hostel, a friendly, short, stocky man, brought us coffee as we dropped our weary bones in chairs at a canteen table. He looked at us in disbelief. “You came from Tupiza today?” I nod in affirmation, “Why, is there something wrong?” In the last few days, they had severe rainstorms to the north. The huge quantity of water that was coming down was destroying many roads and cutting off most of the smaller villages. “How did you manage the road?” he asked. I gave him a short version of our struggles and he just shook his head.
Over breakfast the hostel owner showed us a route around the back of several volcanos where we could find more lakes with flamingos. He warned us that the road would be brutal and severely corrugated. He added: “By the way, no one uses this route so you’ll need to take real care and please, go slowly.” An hour later, fueled up, we turned onto the track. The place we were riding through is called Desierto Salvador Dali! The barren valley bears an uncanny resemblance to his paintings. Mountains peak at over 20’000ft (6200m). We reached Termas de Polques, a hot spring at Laguna Salada along the route between Chile and Salar de Uyuni. I was looking forward to soaking my cold, shaky bones in the hot spring. We wasted no time, grabbed a couple of beers and headed down to the hot spring. The water in this hot spring is around 29 degrees Celsius, just right! The next day’s riding would be another long stretch and getting out of bed before dawn in the freezing room was not easy. I peeked through the dirty window, as the fog began to lift, and the view in the distance hit me straight in the face. I hurriedly got dressed, grabbed my camera and tripod and jogged down to the thick, muddy, salty mix that forms the edge of the lake. Overnight, the rain had frozen on the mountain behind the lake. The entire mountain was covered with a mind-meltingly beautiful white blanket. The morning air was calm after the storm; no wind, no breeze, just an eerie silence. Add the dimmed shades of orange and yellow from the sun as it starts its rise to the pink colors of the lake, and it makes for a soft dreamy pastel coloured painting. It is indescribable; I am struggling to do that scene justice with my words. Standing there, half in a coma from the surreal scene in front of me, thinking and reminding myself, that this is why we ride bikes into places like these, why we sacrifice to experience these places.
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Dec. 3, 2021
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2021 Husqvarna 701 Enduro Project BIKE
BY SIMON CUDBY
2021 Husqvarna 701 Enduro Project BIKE
It’s true to say that the 701 Enduro is not a new bike from Husqvarna, having been on the showroom floor since 2016. Although the 701 has had various small updates throughout the years, such as ride modes and traction control, it has at heart remained a big dual sport with a ton of power. I had ridden the 701 on several trips to Iceland with the guys at RidewithLocals.is, and after my latest trip a few months ago, it got me thinking about the real potential of this machine. Could it really be the perfect Swiss army knife bike that could handle a wide variety of applications? The 701 really has the power to hit the highway and cruise at the speed limit all day long, but that’s not really what I want to spend my day doing. I want to ride the dirt most of the time and have an easier experience of it than, say, a bigger KTM 890 Adventure R. After spending a few days on this 701 project bike, I have come away feeling that it fits perfectly in between a 500EXC and the 890R.
2021 Husqvarna 701 Enduro Project BIKE
2021 Husqvarna 701 Enduro Project BIKE
I worked with Jack at Carl’s in Boise, ID to complete this build. The service dept. at Carl’s does great work, so I had all the confidence in the world that they could do a great job with this build for me. Although Carl’s did the full build, I think I could have handled most of the installations myself over a weekend or two. Starting from the top and working down the bike, we added the new RADE/GARAGE F5 carbon rally tower. The guys at R/G have become the front runners in super clean design and application, and also, the value is great on this product. I had recently seen some of the R/G videos showing just how strong this new tower is with its carbon-embedded stainless steel mounting points. It’s good to know that there is a lifetime guarantee on this tower. On the trail, the RADE/GARAGE F5 gives you that much-needed wind protection. I didn’t really feel any noticeable weight from the tower or side to side weight transfer with a full fuel cell. A big addition to the tower is R/G’s own fantastic built-in LED dual lights that are fully street legal and add a lot of illumination to the trail after dark. The R/G website has full, easy to follow instructions if you want to do the installation yourself.
2021 Husqvarna 701 Enduro Project BIKE
The F5 tower is also a great place to mount my trusty Trail Tech Voyager Pro for navigation. I have been using the Voyager Pro setup for about four years, and it has never let me down. With a USB plug and the bike’s original instrument panel also mounted to the carbon tower, the F5 really makes for a good “heads up” riding experience. Under the ProTaper handlebars, I added a Scotts steering dampener, which fits neatly into the R/G clamp system. For increased fuel range (50% more), I added a RADE/GARAGE auxiliary fuel tank. This tank keeps the original look and handling of the 701, as it sits under the front of the seat whilst not making the bike look any bigger. The Twin Air foam filter air intake is part of the auxiliary tank kit and makes the bike even more off-road-worthy in dusty conditions, and it only takes a few minutes to change your filter. I think I can easily get to at least 200 miles now without sweating about gas. On top of the auxiliary tank, I added a Seat Concepts seat for those long days in the saddle. In my opinion, the guys at Seat Concepts produce the best seats on the market, and I run them on literally all of my bikes. Speaking of comfort, I also added some KTM heated grips for those cold Idaho fall rides, along with some Acerbis wrap-around handguards to protect my controls during the inevitable tip overs. I also installed DoubleTake mirrors with their great folding RAM mount feature.
2021 Husqvarna 701 Enduro Project BIKE
2021 Husqvarna 701 Enduro Project BIKE
2021 Husqvarna 701 Enduro Project BIKE
A good suspension setup is key to making the 701 feel good on the trail. In stock form the front end of the 701 is pretty soft, leading to a stinkbug feel. Jack at Carl’s worked his magic on the forks and shock to balance the bike out. He installed 6.4 springs to the forks along with a revalve to make the forks more plush for rocky and BDR-style terrain. Out back, the shock was revalved to complement the changes to the fork. The 701 is a tall bike for me, so Carl’s Installed a Kouba 1.25” lowering link on the bike, and raised the forks slightly in the triple clamps. This allows me to touch the ground easier, which adds confidence on the trail. As far as engine performance, I started by adding a Yoshimura slip-on exhaust with a spark arrestor. Although it is fairly long, this unit is smaller overall than the stock exhaust. I installed a Power Commander from Chris at Rottweiler Performance that was programmed for the Yosh pipe and also the Rade Garage intake. The acceleration and deceleration performance has to have improved by quite some margin. Also, from Rottweiler, a SAS kit, fuel dongle, ABS dongle, and kickstand dongle were installed. Now my bike is set up as I want it, as a big dirt bike! As I want to take this small adventure bike into some situations that I would avoid on a bigger ADV machine, Carl’s installed a Rekluse auto clutch. The Rekluse system has worked very well for me over the years on multiple bikes, and I saw no reason not to add one to my 701 Enduro. Towards the bottom of the bike, I installed a heavy-duty Outback Motortek skid plate, along with a set of their crash bars. I dropped my bike the day after I had installed the bars, and they did their job perfectly with only a slight scratch. I feel like the more protection your bike has, the less chance there is of breaking something when you are many miles from home.
2021 Husqvarna 701 Enduro Project BIKE
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Installing the IMS Core footpads on the 701 has worked out well. They are bigger than the stock pegs but not too big as to interfere with my boots when I am trying to put my foot down at a stoplight. Plus, they look cool too! For a good all-around DOT approved tire setup, I chose a Dunlop 606 front and paired that to a 908 Rally rear tire. This combo has worked well on my KTM 890 in the past. As I may be getting into more technical trails on the 701, I may try a 606 on the rear also in the future. We installed Platinum Nitro Mousse foam tire inserts to ensure flat-proof performance on our rides. To wrap up the project bike, Upshift did a custom design for the graphics on the bike, tying the look into the rally tower. When I see this 701 completed and sitting on the trail, I can’t believe it’s actually my bike! A big thanks to all the companies involved in this project, and thanks to Carl’s Cycles for putting all the pieces together with zero issues.
Husqvarna..............................................www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com Carl’s Cycles...........................................www.carlscycle.com Rade Garage.........................................www.radegarage.com Mosko Moto..........................................www.moskomoto.com Outback Motortek................................outbackmotortek.com Seat Concepts........................................seatconcepts.com Yoshimura...............................................www.yoshimura-rd.com ProTaper.................................................www.protaper.com Rottweiler Performance........................www.rottweilerperformance.com Trail Tech.................................................www.trailtech.net Dunlop....................................................www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com DoubleTake............................................www.doubletakemirror.com Acerbis...................................................www.acerbisusa.com Kouba Link.............................................www.koubalinks.com Scotts......................................................www.scottsonline.com Nitro Mousse.........................................www.nitromousse.com Rekluse....................................................www.rekluse.com IMS.........................................................www.imsproducts.com
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