Upshift Issue 67 - March 2022 by UPSHIFT

Issue 67

March 2022

KISKA.COM Photo: R. Schedl

THE MOST EPIC ROADS ARE

OFFROAD

The new KTM 1290 SUPER ADVENTURE R allows you to take aim at the horizon and choose the road more adventurous. The reaffirmed ultimate all-terrain powerhouse features reworked ergonomics, updated electronics, and a refined powerplant to enhance your ride.

SEE MORE AT KTM.COM Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

THE ULTIMATE ADVENTURE PA Performance and reliability. The results of a close racing and development partnership between MOTOREX and KTM. #Raceproven quality.

WWW.MOTOREXUSA.COM

Photo: KTM 690 ENDURO R 2021 | Mitterbauer H.

ACKAGE

S e n d t h e se arc h

ISSUE 67 March 2022

Issue 67

INSTA-ADV

March 2022

y information: These drawings contain information y to Upshift. Any reproduction, orCover transmittal of this on without expressed written consent is prohibited by Chad de isAlva se partial or complete of the sord marks prohibited hable to the full extent of the law.

Design, Production Chris Glaspell

Instagram Travelers

LOGO SHEET

THE INSIDER

Making Good Decisions

Contributing Writers Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Travis Gill David Marvier Tim Notier

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Contributing Photographers Tim Burke Alessio Corradini Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Travis Gill David Marvier Tim Notier

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The Latest

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WIDE OPEN CMYK: N80 Y100

Views Through The Lens

NEW MEXICO BDR horizontal on white Part One

Technical Editor Chad de Alva

KOSOVO

Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell

From Ruins of War to Hope

Business Development Brandon Glanville

MONO 500

Want to advertise with us? Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

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Join us on Instagram at @ upshift_online

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FIRST RIDE

2022 Beta 500 RR-S

Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2022. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

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NAMIBIAN SAND

Extreme Desert Landscapes

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The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

2O22 4-Stroke - 350 / 390 / 430 / 500

The Most Off-RoaD Worthy Dual Sport 1) 50 STATE STREET-LEGAL OFF ROAD 2) EASY ACCESS AIR FILTER 3) ELECTRIC STARTER 4) MAP SWITCH WITH TWO DIFFERENT IGNITION SETTINGS - RAIN OR SHINE 5) VOYAGER GPS NAVIGATION SYSTEM 6) FOLD DOWN MIRRORS 7) WAVE BRAKE ROTOR 8) EFI W/ TWIN INJECTORS 9) SACHS ZF FORKS W/ TOOL-LESS ADJUSTABILITY

MAKING GOOD DECISIONS By Chad de Alva Recently, a young couple from the southern United States found themselves in a survival situation when their vehicle became stuck in the snow in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado. They were miles down a closed road and stuck in snow deeper than they stood tall. Their experience is a great reminder of how an adventure can turn into a scary suffer fest with just a few poor choices. The couple’s first mistake was putting blind faith in their GPS. They asked Google to take them to a lake. Driving over two large berms of snow and onto a signed Nordic skiing trail didn’t cause them to stop and think. Their faith in Google’s directions was so strong that they also didn’t hesitate to try driving off the groomed Nordic trail and into unpacked snow where they ultimately became stuck. By sheer luck the couple had cell service. Yet their hopes for rescue were shattered when they learned that there was no tow company who could save them. Insult to injury arrived a few hours later when they discovered how useless their camping gear was for sleeping on snow in the middle of winter. Good decision making, preparation, and a bit of research could have prevented all of this from happening. It’s not difficult to find information about this lake online and it’s pretty hard to miss the part where the access roads are closed for winter. In addition, it’s not that challenging to source proper gear for winter camping. Yet the most important takeaway here is how this couple’s blatantly ignorant choices and actions created a survival situation in which even 911 was hours away from arriving on scene. Luckily for this couple, they didn’t have to spend the night shivering uncontrollably in their sleeping bags wondering how the hell they were going to get home. A snow-cat pulled them out late that night. This couple’s experience is a great reminder of how things can get seriously miserable in a hurry if you don’t make good choices, over-commit, or fail to prepare for your adventure.

Klim Launches 2022 Motorcycle Collection KLIM’s 2022 season launch video reminds us how little time there is to ride. They’re encouraging riders to make the most of every chance to ride by equipping themselves to make every moment on the bike a great experience. Behind the scenes, this demand for good times on every ride is what motivates KLIM’s high standards for functional gear. Accordingly, KLIM is proud to announce a robust new lineup of motorcycle and off-road gear for 2022. This includes new designs of flagship adventure products such as the Badlands Pro, exciting new off-road helmets and gear, as well as new approaches to everyday street gear. The Idaho-based company is no stranger to innovation, pioneering many industry-firsts, while bringing their reputation for exceptional quality to new markets every year. Popular cornerstones in KLIM’s adventure gear lineup are the men’s Badlands Pro and women’s Artemis suits. These are redesigned for 2022 and remain the most feature-packed adventure kits in their line, with GORE-TEX 3-Layer Pro Shell construction and phenomenal abrasion resistance, impact protection and ventilation. New for 2022 is the Raptor GTX Overshell. Nearly 15 years ago, early KLIM adventure jackets were Valdez snowmobile shells, worn over off-road armor. The Raptor GTX is a shell-over-armor system born from a pedigree of KLIM shells that were proven around the globe – including Dakar Rally stages on the backs of Jonah Street and Casey McCoy. With chart-topping abrasion properties, comprehensive weather protection and off-road engineered construction, the Raptor GTX is built for aggressive dual-sport and adventure travel. KLIM’s new F3 Carbon Off-Road Helmet competes directly with the lightest off-road lids on the market. It’s built with ultralight handlaid carbon fiber for the best consistency in shell thickness and resin distribution, meaning no excess weight or imperfections in the shell. According to KLIM, it’s the lightest ECE off-road helmet they were willing to make without sacrificing safety. New off-road gear includes an entirely redesigned Mojave Series – KLIM’s ultra ventilated, ultra durable hot-weather gear. It’s now more comfortable, more ventilated and more durable than before. KLIM’s popular XC Lite off-road gear also gets bold new colors for 2022. For the everyday motorcyclist, KLIM has answered the call for all-day wearable casual motorcycle pants by introducing new designs for the men’s and women’s Outrider Pants. These provide impact and abrasion protection in a comfortable, low profile package that isn’t out of place in daily life. All 2022 gear is visible as www.KLIM.com

THE NEW

WORLD CONQUEROR

WORLD-CLASS DURABILITY / WORLD-CLASS VENTILATION / ALL-WEATHER ADV PROTECTION / KLIM D3O® AERO PRO ARMOR

B A D L A N D S P R O J A C K E T & PA N T / K R I O S P R O H E L M E T / E D G E G O G G L E

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Scott Heritage Edition Goggles The new Heritage Edition Prospect and Fury goggles from SCOTT take it all the way back to the very start of SCOTT’s dominance in the world of motocross and off-road racing. Two classic ‘70s inspired designs represent the true DNA of SCOTT’s racing heritage and gives a nod to the fifty plus years we have been making goggles for old school legends, modern day champions and everyone in between. The Heritage Edition Prospect goggle features an iconic design based off one of our very first winning goggles. A look that will never get old, this Prospect features the same ‘70s era SCOTT logo that was used on our original moto goggles. The design has been kept in the classic blue and red colors together with subtle off-white strap and outriggers to perfectly mirror the goggle that started it all. The SCOTT Prospect is our flagship Off-road motocross goggle. Used by an ever-growing list of champions, the Prospect goggle has everything you need to ensure your vision is the best it can be on the track or trail. With perfected features such as the NoSweat face foam, a maximum field of vision, the innovative SCOTT Lens Lock System, articulating outriggers and much more, the super-stylish SCOTT Prospect goggle has been engineered to Defend Your Vision no matter how extreme the conditions get. The SCOTT Heritage Edition goggles will be available from the 16th of February 2022. www.scott-sports.com

The Moment Collectors Book Looking for some adventure motorcycle inspiration during the down season? Look no further than the recently released book by Sam Manicom and Friends titled The Moment Collectors – Twenty Travelers’ Tales From Around the World. This wonderful collection of short stories provides personal insights into the world of motorcycle overlanding and includes three authors that are regular contributors to UPSHIFT: Michnus Olivier, Tim Notier, and Travis Gill. Available at www.sam-manicom.com, Amazon, and The Book Depository. Features: • A forward by London-based solo motorcyclist and author Lois Pryce • 20 storytellers from all around the world • 70 illustrations by British motorcyclist Simon Roberts • 20 color photographs • Cover photography by Michnus Olivier

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

parallel twin

Photo: R. Schedl, R. Steinke, KISKA GmbH

889 cc

449 lb

husqvarna-motorcycles.com

As long as you are on planet Earth, you’re not lost. Trust in the north.

N o r d e n

the entire globe is a playground just waiting for you to explore. inspired by the north and built for the world, the norden 901 is a rugged travel machine ready to face the unknown.

9 01

WIDE OPEN

ARGENTINA

PHOTO: DAVID MARVIER

WIDE OPEN

WYOMING

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

ARIZONA

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

WIDE OPEN

NEW MEXICO

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

Ténéré 700. Find new horizons. www.YamahaMotorsports.com

Professional rider depicted on a closed course. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long sleeves, long pants, gloves and boots. European spec model shown. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. ©2021 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved.

WIDE OPEN

ILLYRIA RAID

PHOTO: ALESSIO CORRADINI

WIDE OPEN

OREGON

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

WIDE OPEN

ARIZONA

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

WIDE OPEN

OREGON

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

SOUTH AFRICA

PHOTO: TIM NOTIER

WIDE OPEN

ARIZONA

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

WIDE OPEN

CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

COSTA RICA

PHOTO: KADIR ASNAZ / KLIM

WORDS AND PHOTOS: OLIVIER DE VAULX

PART ONE

NEW MEXICO BDR

Introduction to New-Mexico Landlocked between Arizona and Texas, the state of New Mexico doesn’t make the headlines very often. Yet, it’s exactly what ADV riders are looking for: a quiet state with plenty of wilderness to enjoy, and just a handful of people to meet every day. Going there with an adventure bike to randomly explore any trail that appears under your wheels would be possible, but with so many remote places where gas stations are more scarce than oasis in the desert, you have to plan carefully. Luckily for us out-of-state riders, the guys at RideBDR took care of everything. Their 6th Backcountry Discovery Route wanders through the most remote places of New Mexico and logs every fueling opportunity on the way, as well as lodging and food. On top of that useful source of information, just knowing that these guys somehow validated the route on their big GS1200 makes the ride look more doable. No wonder why, within their 10 years of existence, the BDRs have become the backbone of the American ADV culture and almost a mandatory item on any serious rider’s bucket list.

Planning for the trip Still, thinking about doing the New Mexico BDR and finding the perfect timing to do it are two different things. The first logical assumption would be that it’s best to do it during summer when days are longer. But it also means that temperatures can be extreme and that late afternoon storms due to the heat may transform any trail into a muddy skating rink. Fall and spring would probably be best in terms of precipitation, but probably still too hot. We then decided to try the ride just before winter, in mid-November. Days are definitely shorter, mornings and nights would be cold, but the temperatures would be overall easier to handle. More importantly, there is little risk of a tropical storm in November! Using the interactive map on the BDR website, we could see that the snow coverage over the state was almost non-existent, except for a few summits near the border of Mexico. Downloading the GPS track directly from the website, where you can express your gratitude with an optional donation, was easy. Once the file uploaded in the Trail Tech Voyager Pro, there wasn’t much more to do than the ritual packing of bags and gear in the pickup truck.

High-plateau of New-Mexico After hours of dull driving on the highway, starting the two Triumph Tiger 900s the next morning felt like a deliverance. With the gravel road gaining elevation as the sun was rising, we could let our mind drift away and put ourselves in adventure mode. Standing on the footpegs, feeling the big tires slide a bit on the loose gravel, we warmed up quickly and we soon found ourselves on the high plateau of the Guadalupe Mountains, a few thousand feet above the Crow Flats Valley. Some cattle here and there, not at all scared by the mention of Tiger on the fairing of our big bikes, were the only visible sign of life. The three-cylinder engines growling smoothly, the gear box locked in 6th gear thanks to the abundant torque, it was not long before we reached the most amazing vista point we could have dreamed of. Despite a slight haze due to the strong wind, the visibility from the edge of the rim was astonishing and we could see mountains dozens of miles away. It was a perfect spot for a snack, but not for a nap. The 278 miles of section 1 were too much for one short winter day, and we still had to make it to Cloudcroft. With the gas station shown on the map (in the oddly-named town of Weed) being closed, we had to detour to Mayhill. Once the Tigers were fed with premium gas and the Mosko Moto bags refilled with candy bars, the last leg of this first but already memorable day could begin.

Deer and chalets If the gravel road through the Lincoln National Forest made the riding somehow tricky, with no real technical difficulties but still a need for constant focus, the pace was high enough that we could actually make it to town just before sunset. A big relief, since the vision of deer and elk wandering in the fields bordering the road was frightening enough to dissuade us to ride by night. It’s funny how the sight of wildlife can go from exciting to threatening depending on the kind of vehicle you’re using and the hour of the day. In Cloudcroft, we found a mountain community that could have been directly imported from Colorado. Cowboy hats, wooden cabins, chimneys with firewood in local restaurants, it felt welcoming warm and authentic. In this atmosphere out of time, it didn’t seem too much of a betrayal to opt for large pizzas instead of more authentic Mexican food. Besides, with outside temperatures around 27°F now that the night had fallen, we needed the carbs! Having set up for the night in a bed and breakfast where we spent the evening chatting with guests from all over the world, we felt at home already. We could have stayed here for a couple days, especially after having discovered an amazing bakery with great croissants, but there were so many more places to discover. Looking at the map, we decided to take a small arrangement with the original track of the BDR, going back down in the valley for a quick ride in White Sands NP.

CHOOSE TO HAVE IT ALL

Built to excel in the dirt and on the tarmac, the new Tiger 1200 Rally Pro is the all-new globe-busting, desert-crossing, mountain-conquering adventure champion. Powered by a new 1200 triple engine, the unique T-Plane design blends the low-speed capability of a twin with the top-end performance of a triple, for excellent traction in tough conditions, and supreme performance on the road. Add to that an all-new chassis that’s significantly lighter and more agile, long travel semi-active suspension and feature-packed technology, for unprecedented capability off-road and on. The all-new Tiger 1200 Rally Pro. It’s time to reset your adventure expectations. From $22,500 MSRP. Find out more at triumphmotorcycles.com

Riding on the moon To reach the park from the mountains, we had to leave the quiet town of Cloudcroft on a narrow canyon road lit by the early rays of the sun, and then merge into the traffic at Alamogordo and on the touristy highway 70. The temperatures were just above freezing, but our multi-layer Moskomoto gear kept us warm, helped by the heated grips and seats of the Tigers. Who said that comfort was forbidden during a motorcycle adventure? As soon as we entered the park, we were rewarded with an unexpected censorial experience. The white sand, made with small crystals of gypsum, was dazzling. The relief disappeared and it was almost hard to see the side of the sandy road, except for the shade on the side of the dunes. The surface felt slippery, and we kept riding at a slow pace, trying to resist the urge to park the bikes and run in the immaculate white powder. Alas, we were not that strong mentally though, and it didn’t take long before we did our first step on the moon-like surface. The Alpinestars tech 7 soles were stamping perfect prints in the sand, completing the analogy with the moon landing. The park being famous already, we didn’t plant an Upshift flag on top of the dunes, but the idea crossed our minds. After this childish escape, it was time to go back to a more serious kind of riding. A bit of highway to make up the time lost, using the cruise control and enjoying the comfortable seats of the British bikes, we finally got ready to ride our first miles of true New Mexico desert.

Mind-blowing art But since New Mexico is a land of surprises, our most expected desert riding experience was delayed by a full hour. Indeed, crossing the little town of Carrizozo and looking for the gas station, we found a hidden gem that we couldn’t pass by without stopping. In this city of 900 inhabitants is the biggest photographic gallery of the state! And there are good reasons why, explained Warren Malkerson, the owner of the place. It looks like far away from the glamour of the big cities, the New Mexicans really found the time to enhance their craft and to express their love for their state and the natural wonders it conceals. Their pictures were just amazing, and we walked in awe through the aisle of the exhibition, envisioning in a revealing shortcut all the magic of the “land of enchantment”. For those who look for more than a ride but also for a deeper understanding of the states traveled, stopping at places like the Tularosa Basin Photo Gallery might be just what they need. Still, the show had to go on, and we finally took off in direction of the desert, just a few miles away.

A first taste of desert riding On our Butter map, this section was described as a fun double track. We had great expectations and were not disappointed, as we encountered a deep patch of silt right away. On this smooth and treacherous powder-like surface, the front wheel just dived, then started to steer away from the chosen line, while the rear end lifted up and started to go his own way. We both did the same rodeo, laughing about it afterward mostly to forget the chilling sensation of almost falling. No shame though, it was the perfect trap and we still made it through! After all those miles almost falling asleep on pavement, it was a brutal wake-up call. More cautious now, we kept going with all our senses in alert, our eyes scanning the trail ahead. Dirt and silt alternated, and we had no choice but to keep a huge distance in between the bikes because of the opaque clouds of dust raised by our Tigers. At times, the trail was winding toward the nearby mountains, and we would keep a flowy pace through the corners, our Shinko and Dunlop tires sliding in every exit on the light gravel. The rare Joshua trees and the occasional patches of lava stones gave a very specific atmosphere to this section, with many places reminding us of Africa. Other moments were spent rushing through long straight lines, enjoying the stability of the 900’s three-cylinder motorcycles at high speed. Man, was it good to be in these wide-open spaces! The forests of the first day were nice, but the feeling of freedom was greatly improved in these vast plains. Arriving before the sun even settled down at Truth or Consequences, a town named after a TV show, we stopped at a vista point above the dam. Staring at the lake as the impressive wall turns orange with the sunset light, we added this spectacular scenery to the incredible diverse list of landscapes we witnessed during these two first days. As soon as the sun disappeared, we went downhill to downtown and stopped at the first Mexican restaurant. Chips, salsa, and burritos were all we needed, as we started to plan for the second part of the trip, from here to Grants. To be continued in Upshift Issue 68.

After 4 years in development, BDR is proud to announce the release of our 11th route, the Wyoming BDR. Free GPS tracks and travel resources available at: RideBDR.com/WYBDR WYBDR Documentary Film Tour runs nationwide February – May: RideBDR.com/events Order the WYBDR Butler Motorcycle Map at: ButlerMaps.com PRESENTED BY:

By Travis Gill of viajarMOTO.com

I leaned my head back and closed my eyes as I tried to imagine being in a better place. Perhaps a twisty mountain road with the rays of a summer sun warming my face. It didn’t work. I winced as the nurse pushed the cotton swab deeper into my nasal cavity. “Ugh”, I coughed and pulled my head backwards. “All done!” The nurse smiled with a grin that made me wonder if she actually enjoyed torturing her patients. “Both of your results should be posted to your email before the end of the day.” This was our first PCR test for COVID-19, a requirement to enter Kosovo. Previous to 2020, we didn’t have any idea what a PCR test was. Now we wondered if these tests were going to be required for every new country from now on. As we left the lab, I turned to Chantil and said, “I sure hope Kosovo is worth the pain, inconvenience, and extra cost of these tests.” “It will be,” she replied, just before putting on her helmet and throwing a leg over the seat of her BMW G650GS motorcycle. The next day we would be leaving North Macedonia (UPSHIFT Issue 63) and riding into the newest European country of Kosovo.

A Bloody and Tumultuous Past Kosovo is Europe’s newest country and a disputed one. In 2008, Kosovo formally declared independence from Serbia but it came at the cost of years of deadly conflict that was fueled by century-long tensions between Albanians and Serbians. In 1989, the Serbian government, led by Yugoslavian president Slobodan Milošević, only intensified the oppression of Albanian citizens living in Kosovo. Albanians countered with the establishment of the Kosovo Liberation Army (KLA). KLA forces were responsible for various deadly attacks on Serbian police. Fighting intensified throughout the 1990s, resulting in a war that lasted for two years, the loss of over 13,500 people, and the displacement of nearly 1.5 million Albanians, Serbs, and Romani, that left the war-torn regions of Kosovo. As we rode around the country, we were reminded of the relative recent conflict. The roadsides and numerous villages all have monuments to KLA fighters who died during the Kosovo War. None was more unsettling than the village of Prekaz where the “Father of the KLA”, Adam Jashari, lived with his extended family. Jashari was considered, and continues to be, a symbol of Kosovo independence by ethnic Albanians. He was considered a terrorist by Serbian police and Yugoslavian military. On the 5th of March 1998, the Yugoslav Army and Serbian anti-terrorist forces surrounded the home town of Jashari with the intent of eliminating the “suspects and their families.” The aftermath of the attack on Prekaz resulted in the death of two Serbian police, the killing of Adam Jashari and over 60 Albanians – 30 of which were members of Jashari’s family. Today the attack is memorialized with a museum, cemetery, and the protected remains of the homes and buildings that were riddled with bullet holes and the gnarled remains of rusted metal and vehicles that were destroyed in the attack. All of this was a difficult to comprehend reminder of the terrors of war that have shaped this country.

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Our Airbnb hostess recommended another monument located in the town of Elez Han near the border of Northern Macedonia. This is a mosaic wall and train cars dedicated to the over 440,000 refugees that fled their war-torn homes. The mosaic depicts an Albanian woman breastfeeding her infant daughter while solemnly trudging in a line with other refugees. The inspiration for the mosaic came from a 1999 TIME magazine cover that was taken by Bosnian photographer Damir Sogolj. Just a few weeks before we arrived in Kosovo, this monument was commissioned with a small ceremony that included the woman in the photograph, Sherife Ljuta, and her daughter, now a 23-year-old woman. Both returned to Kosovo after the war, rebuilt their lives, and live in the nearby town of Kaçanik.

Out of the Ruins of Hate and War Despite the difficult past, there seemed to be a feeling of hope and friendship as we rode around and explored Kosovo – especially to Americans. It was especially apparent in the capital city of Pristina where we walked past American flags and monuments to the former Secretary of State Madeleine Albright and President Bill Clinton – both outspoken proponents of NATO intervention during the Kosovo War. During our tour around the capital, we found many references to the United States including the NEWBORN independence monument written in English and inspired by Albright’s quote, “Let us pledge that in Kosovo there will be a new birth of freedom based on tolerance, law and respect for every human life.” There is also a street named “Bulevardi Bill Klinton” in honor of President Clinton and a large 11-foot statue of the president with his hand outstretched in a friendly wave. Right next door to the statue is a boutique shop – amusingly called Hillary, that sells brightly-colored power pantsuits.

Magnificent Mountain Passes Kosovo is a landlocked and relatively small country (the state of Idaho is 20 times larger), with diverse geography. The rolling plains of the central region are contrasted to the Prokletije Mountains along the western borders of Albania, and the Šar Mountains bordering North Macedonia to the south. We especially enjoyed riding the 38 miles (61 km) of the R115 from Prizren to Kogjaj. This two-lane mountain road winds like a snake through pine forests and magnificent views of nearby snow-capped mountains. The various roads east of Peja in the north-western regions were also a joy to ride. We discovered numerous forest access roads where locals would give us a big smile and a friendly wave. One of the locals even warned that there was a bear sighting a few days ago. Although, we didn’t see any bears during our travels, we did discover the next best thing – a bear sanctuary near the capital of Pristina.

The Restaurant Bears Shortly after the war-ravaging years of the late 1990s, the practice of trapping young brown bears and caging them to entice restaurant visitors became common. These “restaurant bears” were often underfed, heckled by guests, given alcohol to drink, and even left abandoned when owners lost their business or had to move. In November 2010 it became illegal in Kosovo to privately own bears. Since all of these bears were captured as cubs, it was unlikely that they would survive in the wilderness if released. There had to be a solution. A few years later, a 40-acre facility, named Bear Sanctuary Pristina, was opened to accommodate these restaurant bears. As of 2022, they have 20 brown bears that live under professional supervision in an environment that is suited for them: large pens with trees, ponds, and a regular feeding schedule of healthy foods that includes plants, herbs, fruits, berries, bugs, fish, and deer. Sorry bears - no more booze. The entrance fee to the sanctuary was just 2 euros ($2.26 USD) per person and provided a relaxing afternoon to walk along the 0.9 mile (1.5 km) trail and learn about each of the 20 brown bears. We especially enjoyed learning their names and reading about them from information placards written in Albanian and English. Our favorite part of the day was watching them run excitedly towards the fence as the feeding crews threw deer meat and guts into their pens. More of the Balkans to Discover After three weeks in Kosovo, we decided to return to Albania and then explore the northern region of this country before crossing Montenegro and then entering the country of Bosnia & Herzegovina. There will definitely be more motorcycle related adventures of the Balkans to come. About viajarMOTO Travis and Chantil Gill started full-time motorcycle overlanding in early 2020 and plan to continue traveling until they see as much of the world as possible. You can follow them on their website www.viajarMOTO.com.

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03/31/22

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A NOSTALG

GIC TRIP THROUGH THE ARGENTINIAN ALTIPLANO

Words and Photos: David Marvier

ABRA DEL ACAY - CAFAYATE - SALAR - ALTIPLANO - CORDILLÈRE DES ANDES - SALTA - LAGUNA DE LOS POZUELOS - CUESTA DE L

LIPAN - QUEBRADA DE LAS CONCHAS

THE FOLLOWING STORY HAS BEEN TRANSLATED FROM FRENCH TO ENGLISH

Mono500 is a French travel agency that has been opening routes in the most remote places on earth for more than 15 years. Gauthier and his wife Chloé are great motorcycles adventurers who offer trips that look like them. Accommodations are authentic and comfortable, and the restaurants have traditional food on the menu to be sure you will enjoy the proverbial Argentinian hospitality. Their trips are in the premium category but are still full of bonding moments, in a manner that is true, full, and plain. Those travels are aimed toward discovering new places, in small groups of 4 to 8 riders. The goal is not to eat a ton of dust every day but to take the time to fully explore the countries in which you travel. Riding a Royal Enfield 500, our adventurers will trade performance for a more leisurely pace, therefore having time to enjoy the scenery. The philosophy of these journeys makes total sense on the dusty roads of the high plateau of the Andes. The Argentinian Northwestern part is indeed the largest high elevation desert in the world and the route goes up to 15,000ft through the highest passes in America, the famous “Abra del Acaï”. You need some time to get used to the lack of oxygen at this altitude! This 23-day trip, over 1,400 miles, brings the riders up to the highest Andes summits before going down to the Cafayate vineyards via Route 40. The atmosphere on the high plateau is surreal as we discover the true meaning of immensity. A quiet landscape, just disturbed once in a while by llamas, Galapagos, or birds of prey. The horizon is visible all the way, there’s no traffic and the pure air of the Andes gives an exhilarating feeling of freedom.

ARGENTINA IS A MYTHIC LAND

Many adventurers told us travel stories. Among them: Ernesto Guevara (the Che) and his comrade Alberto Granado, who traveled across the country on 1939 Norton 500s; Antoine de St Exupéry and Henri Guillaumet, who helped create the Aeroposta Argentina S.A; The story of Fangio, a 1950 racer still considered one of the best drivers of all times; The Dakar Rally that was raced in Argentina from 2008 to 2018, whose tracks we follow at a more leisurely pace. If Argentina is a mythic place, it’s also an epicurean place. After a long day ride, everybody enjoys “pure vida” nights while eating the local beef meat, slowly cooked on wood fire, and drinking the powerful Argentina Malbec wine.

THE HIGH PLATEAU

Our trip starts on “la Cornisa”, a narrow winding road that crosses a dense forest just after Salta, in the northern part of the country. From the start, corners are stacking up on a perfectly paved road, sometimes no larger than 12 feet. Arriving at Jujuy, you see the beginning of the Quabrada de Humahuaca. This mountain range, listed on the Unesco list of world heritage sites, has an impressive palette of colors. On the east side, a rocky dirt road turns toward Iruya. At the border between Salta and Jujuy provinces, the Condor pass offers a breathtaking view of the canyon at the bottom of which is hidden this forgotten village. At an elevation of nine thousand feet, landlocked between the steep mountains of the Andes, this small town looks like a mirage. At sunrise, we can watch the condors waking up. The ascending currents of warm air invite them to leave their nest, and they open their large wings to fly gracefully over the canyon. Up North, near the Bolivian border, a nice 30 mile dirt road leads to Yavi, a town out of time, with a population of 210 and the oldest church in the country. Further, in the high plateau, where no roads have ever been paved, sandy tracks bring us to the Angosto canyon through a desolate landscape. The Argentinian antelopes, called vigognes, watch the motorcycles with curiosity, their ears fully dressed on their head. Fifty miles inside this dry pampa is the famous laguna of Los Pozuelos. Above 10,500 feet, this salted water lake with turquoise reflections hosts 40 bird species including twenty-five thousand pink flamingos. The next day, starting from Tilcara, it’s a new scenery while the route goes over the Cuesta de Lipan summit. It’s a climb with 396 switchbacks up to 12,500 feet, with 6,000 feet of elevation gain on a perfect paved road. These tight corners are a perfect playground for the rider looking for sensations!

THE SALTED DESERT OF SALINAS GRANDES

Reaching the summit at Costa Lipan, we see an immaculate white area: the infinite salar de Salinas Grandes, in the middle of the Altiplano. On this vast surface, nothing blocks the view of the horizon, and the pure air and the awesome riding make you experience the true meaning of the word freedom. That’s the ultimate definition of the large Argentinian open spaces. This lake is the ultimate goal for all travelers in Latin America. Used by the Paris Dakar racers from 2009 to 2017, the next dirt road is one of the most technical of the trip: washboards, potholes, sandy washes, there are enough difficulties to challenge even the most experienced riders. Vehicles are pretty rare on these untouched wilderness areas near the Chilean border. Oxygen also rarefies as we reach 14,000ft, the highest elevation of the trip. That’s where we visit the Tussle volcano, with the ancient lava flow still visible. Riding toward the mining town of Los Cobres, we raise our head to admire the 140ft high viaduct of Povorilla that inspired Hergé for his Tintin adventure “ Tintin and the temple of the sun” The land of the Gauchos. “He owns nothing. He might be the most autonomous, free, and happy of all the men. He doesn’t care about his future and live his life day by day”. On the Argentinian roads, we look for the emblematical Gaucho, Argentinian equivalent to the American cowboy. Expert equestrian, he watches the cattle but is also a symbol of pride and humility in front of the natural forces, the protector of the core values of the Argentinian culture. Historically, the Gaucho is a mix of European and local descendants, a sailor, a deserter, a rebel rejected by society. He has his own codes, rules, and laws. The last gauchos, which are more sedentary than in the past, are nonetheless still indomitable. Nomads on horses, single or in small groups, they use the lasso, the knife, and the boleadoras, three stones united with leather laces that are an efficient weapon once thrown in the legs of a running animal.

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THE QUEBRADA DE LAS CONCHAS

We then ride down south to the Salta province, on the fertile soil of the Calchaquies valleys, in the heart of the Argentinian pampa. The rocks are becoming redder before the Quebrada de las Conchas, a spectacular canyon where ochre, yellow, emerald, or golden stripes are sculpting surprising shapes. On the nice roads that wander through the canyon, natural wonders appear at every turn. It comes as no surprise that this area is listed at the Unesco!

TRANSIT THROUGH THE OPEN SPACES OF ROUTE 40

Emblematic road in South America and initiatory trail for the young graduated Argentinians, who are supposed to travel it to the end before starting their adult life, the “Ruta 40” is the very essence of adventure. One of the most important of the country, this austral route starts at Rio de Gallegos, in the Southern end of Patagonia, and goes 5,200 miles to reach Bolivia. Not always paved, the road crosses not less than 20 national parks, 27 passes, including the Alcay pass over 15,000ft, the highest in the American continent. The Route 40 crosses all the Northwestern regions of Argentina and offers unmatched landscapes. The parallel roads, never straight, are called Cuestas (shoreline), Cornisa (ledge), and Quebradas (deep valley)

CHASING THE DAKAR

After 30 miles and a few isolated villages, the trail narrows before reaching the Las Flechas canyon, where impressive stone arrows stand vertically. On these technical trails, Dakar Rally racers were flying at 90mph! The dusty desert landscape reminds us of the western movies, and here we only cross some gauchos wearing sombreros. If this road is today obsolete, it used to be an important trading path in the Andes. The trail is punctuated by villages made of adobe (sun-dried brick made of clay and straw) where our noisy group creates some unexpected activity. The trail stops at Cachi.

THE LOS CARDONES NATIONAL PARK

A few miles after Cachi, the Los Cardones National Park spreads over 160,000 acres. The park was named after a cactus specie that is now protected and grows by the hundreds of thousands. Some are 15 feet high and others are 300 years old. On the “Camino Colorado”, a winding road that crosses the park, the motorcycles raise clouds of dust that force riders to keep their distance. From the vista point, the bikes look like small ants that wander over the laterite. After a corner, pavement reappears on the mythical Recta Tin Tin, a straight road that crosses the park over 12 miles. At 9,000 feet, this road follows the track of an old Inca trail. THE MATÉ TRADITION

To endure the long days in the Andes and stay focused enough to ride down the passes safely, nothing works better than a sip of maté. Leaves of the maté or yerba maté

C A L I E N T E

•

N E VA D A

tree are used as tea. In the Andes culture, Maté is usually drunk in traditional calabash with the help of a bombilla, a metallic straw. To really enjoy it, Argentinians share the drink from hand to hand, following a very precise ritual that invites guests to make it turn counterclockwise to slow down time. This drink helps locals to endure the rigorous winter and symbolizes, thanks to its ancestral way of sharing it, the hospitality of the Argentinians. Used when people rest and when they share convivial moments, the Maté inspires people of Latin America and stays strongly associated with their history and their culture. It became a national symbol in Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, and it’s the ideal beverage to stay focused up to the end of the day. WWW.MONO500.COM

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TESTED

BY CHAD DE ALVA

SCOTT AMPLIFIER GOGGLES Goggles are one of the most undervalued pieces of riding gear. Many riders just treat them as something that looks cool instead of as something that quite literally changes how they see the world. Think about it – goggles not only moderate the light that reaches the wearer’s eyes, but they provide protection from dust, dirt, water, impacts, and they have to do all of this (ideally) without fogging up. In other words, goggles do so much more than help you look cool in the rest of your Power Ranger riding costume. Scott Sports has been making moto goggles for more than 50 years, and their Prospect Amplifier Goggles are some of the most impressive moto goggles that I’ve ever worn. Amplifier goggle lenses are different than many other goggle lenses on the market, in that they’re specifically designed to enhance certain wavelengths of light. By highlighting the blue, orange and red segments of the visible light spectrum, Amplifier lenses make a significant difference in contrast and clarity when compared to other lenses that just randomly reduce certain segments of the visible light spectrum. With Amplifier lenses, your eyes get more of the spectrum that helps you better read the terrain. The result is something that you have to see with your own eyes to fully appreciate.

SCOTT AMPLIFIER GOGGLES Before we go any further it’s worth mentioning that I have an FAA Medical Certificate, meaning I’ve been tested to determine that I do not have any type of color blindness. Although my eyes are certainly not perfect and since humans are all different, the experience you have with any pair of goggles may be different than what I experience. Now with that disclaimer out of the way, let’s get back to the test. Riding with a pair of Amplifier goggle lenses is kind of like watching a High Definition TV for the first time. Colors do indeed pop more, and you can see better definition in both bright and dark areas. With improved definition in bright light, you can now determine that your line up the sand dune is in fact up a slip face, which means it’s a trap. With better vision in the shadows, you can tell that the big ledge hiding under that tree is too big to just wheelie up. With Amplifier lenses, bright areas are never blown out and dark areas still retain definition. Across the board, Amplifier lenses help you see better, improving your ability to read terrain and makes for a safer and more enjoyable riding experience. Scott has been making moto goggles for the better part of a century now, and in that time they’ve learned how to make a truly top shelf goggle. Amplifier lenses come housed in Scott’s Prospect frame, and after a couple of years of running Prospect goggle frames with other lenses, I can confidently say that Prospects are a great goggle option. The Prospect frame features three-layer foam, articulated outriggers, and plenty of ventilation making them a great goggle by any measure. I have had zero issues with Prospect goggles fogging up or having random compatibility issues on any helmet that I’ve paired them with, which is more than I can say for other goggles I’ve used in the past. The Prospect uses Scott’s lens lock system, which is a great intersection between ease of lens changing and lens retention. Magnetic lens retention systems are all the rage, but I’ve had magnet systems fail to seal more than once or unseal during a ride which let dust inside my goggles. Yet, the lens lock system is an easy-to-use mechanical fastening system that uses four locks to hold a lens in place, so once it’s locked in, it is sealed up and NOT coming out. This system has proven to be the best of both worlds – great retention and a fairly easy lens change process. It’s not as fast as a magnet system, but it’s much stronger and better sealed. It’s also much better than trying to line up a bunch of slots and tabs like lens retention systems on other goggles.

SCOTT AMPLIFIER GOGGLES The only critique I can level against the Prospect frame is that its wider nose bridge can randomly tickle the nose of wearers with narrower noses. This is the result of the way the frame sits on the face of wearers with a narrower nose, and it’s usually something that a little positioning adjustment or goggle strap tension adjustment can fix. Yet more than one tester has reported experiencing this distracting nose tickling, so it’s something to be aware of. The Scott Prospect Goggle with Amplifier rose lens has proven to be an outstanding goggle system. The Amplifier lens works great at any time of day and in riding conditions ranging from open desert under a mid day sun,S to canyon chasing at last light. Speaking of last light, Amplifier lenses make sunsets next level. To be clear, I have yet to encounter a situation where the Amplifier lens has negatively impacted my riding experience, or where I’ve found myself wishing I had a different pair of goggles. I haven’t had any issues with fogging either. Prospects with Amplifier lenses are easy enough to disassemble and clean, and at this point they are a known quantity that I can count on for outstanding performance, comfort (as long as the nose bridge is properly positioned), and vision like no other goggle I’ve ever worn. Goggles are commonly a piece of riding gear that is style driven, but if you want to experience what goggle performance can do for your riding enjoyment, give a pair of Scott Prospects with an Amplifier lens a try. For more information, visit the www.scott-sports.com

2021_SCOTT_PROSPECT_Heritage_EN_A4.pdf

21.01.22

09:45

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TESTED

BY CHAD DE ALVA

C y c l op s Ad v e n t ur e S p or t s Mul t i F unc t ion 3. 0 T ur n S ig nal s Cyclops Adventure Sports Multi Function 3.0 Turn Signals are replacement LED turn signals that add additional lighting functionality to your motorcycle. In addition to replacing your stock turn signals with LED turn signals, the front signals can work as daytime running lights and the rear signals can work as tail lights and brake lights. Adding these functions to your bike increases safety in that your bike is more visible to other vehicles around you. Here’s what it’s like to install and use them on a KTM 790 Adventure R. The kit comes with everything you need to install and wire the signals up, but if you’re working on a 7/890 be ready to sink some time into this install as you need to crack open the stock headlight. It’s in here where you’ll find the turn signal flasher that needs to be replaced, and how you’ll access front signals. Pro tip: Use a deep well socket and a pair of Knipex (or equivalent tool) to install the front signals. The 790 requires a pair of resistors to be added to the turn signal circuits, and there is space to stash them in the tail of the bike. The 890 does not need resistors.

Cyclops Adventure Sports Multi Function 3.0 Turn Signals To take advantage of the taillight and/or brake light functionality, you have to tap into the bike’s factory wiring harness, which unfortunately is done using Posi-Taps. These unsealed screw on splices poke holes into your bike’s factory wiring, and if one of the two threaded joints on each splice rattles loose, the splice will fail. To take the Posi-Taps out of the equation, I opted to make a pig tail using some JST JWPF connectors which are the factory KTM connectors and easily found online. It’s also worth noting that the supplied resistors are connected with Posi-Taps too, which is a bummer considering other brands supply resistors with appropriately matched factory turn signal connectors. One other thing to note is that Cyclops recommends that you only wire up the brake light function. The off-on transition is a more drastic change than the lights getting brighter when going from taillight to brake lights. In use, the Multi Function turn signals work exactly as advertised. Up front, the additional lighting does make the bike look bigger when viewing it from the front. The turn signals look neat, as they light up in sequence running from one end of the light to the other. Yet, the best feature is by far the additional brake lighting. When configured as recommended, it makes a noticeable difference. As someone who has been stopped at a traffic light preparing to take evasive action from the car coming up behind me with the driver blatantly on their phone, I’ll take anything I can get to avoid becoming a sedan sandwich. Whether you want to add safety to your bike with additional lighting or have turn signals that don’t look like they came off a bike from the 90s, with the notable exception of the Posi-Taps, the Cyclops Multi Function Turn Signals 3.0 are a solid way to accomplish that. For more information, www.cyclopsadventuresports.com

First Ride – 2022 Beta 500 RR-S For the last month we’ve been riding the 2022 Beta Motorcycle 500 RR-S on all of the different type of rides one can do with a 500-class street legal dirt bike. We’ve ripped single track and played in the rocks, we’ve explored open riding areas and sand dunes, and we’ve logged plenty of miles on paved roads and improved dirt roads to get to see what Italy’s interpretation of a 500-class street-legal platform is all about.

By CHAD DE ALVA

Updates for the 2022 model year include a new diaphragm clutch, led headlight, updated suspension valving in both the forks and the shock, and a new anodizing process on the fork tubes which Beta claims extends fork tube life. The bike comes standard with 15/48 gearing, but Beta includes a 13 tooth countershaft sprocket for off-road use. More on that in a minute. Throw a leg over the 500 RR-S and the first thing you’ll notice is that the bike feels small compared to other 500s. Compact is a theme that is consistent throughout the bike, as the chassis feels small and so too does the cockpit. I’m 6-foot 1-inches so I’m certainly taller than the ‘standard’ rider, but shorter test riders reported a compact cockpit experience as well. Thankfully, the handlebar mounts are a six position system, with three positions on the top triple clamp and offset bar clamps which can be turned forward and backward to help dial in bar position to rider preference. The bars themselves have less sweep than what you’ll find on other European bikes, which honestly is a nice change, as it makes you want to stay low and keep your arms wide. Connect these bars to a bike that feels small between your boots and you’ve got an agile platform that is very easy to manipulate. Hand controls on the Beta are top shelf. They are some of the nicest looking and functioning controls on a dirt bike that I’ve ever interfaced with. The new diaphragm clutch is outstanding and one of my favorite parts of this bike. The lever is smooth, has a very light pull, and provides great modulation. Basically, I wish my personal 500’s clutch felt this good.

Moving over to the other end of the handlebars, you’ll find a Nissin master cylinder for the front brake which is linked to a Nissin caliper. The rear end is the same Nissin-spec kit and the braking system is rounded out with Galfer rotors front and rear. Performance is exactly what you would expect – great modulation and performance. Yet unfortunately, the same can’t be said about the Beta’s throttle. Whack the throttle open or roll it on with any panache and you’ll find a very noticeable hesitation in the 500’s throttle response. It’s almost like a carbed bike without an accelerator pump. Chock it up to emissions or whatever you want, but it is what it is, and this hesitation impacts the way you have to ride this bike. Putting the power down comes with additional preplanning to compensate for a good second of hesitation in some cases. Yet once you get past the hesitation, the 500’s 477.5cc mill takes off and builds consistent power all the way to the limiter – and this motor loves to rev. Keeping things wound up to keep the ponies in play is a different approach for riders who are used to the tractor-like torque of a big thumper, so don’t buy this bike expecting the same shoulder stretching bottom end that other 4 strokes are known for. The 500 RR-S comes with map switch that makes a noticeable difference in the bike’s throttle response. The sun map sharpens throttle response, and the rain cloud map softens the throttle response for more finite power control on low grip surfaces. This map switch is a neat feature and coupled with the outstanding clutch on the bike, the rider is able to put down precisely the amount of power wanted with minimal effort.

Suspension on the 500 RR-S is a mixed bag. The linked shock on the 500 does a decent job in stock spec, and all test riders were able to achieve acceptable performance using the clickers. The owners manual only lists a static sag specification and recommended spring rate for rider weight chart, so we assumed a rider sag of 1/3 travel or 98mm. The fork, however, is a different story – our test riders couldn’t achieve the damping performance they were after with the clickers. The front end likes to deflect on obstacles, and combined with the bike’s very light steering, things can get twitchy at times. A suspension re-valve would go a long way toward addressing the deflection issue, and further chassis tuning would better dial in the steering. Yet in stock form the 500 RR-S is plenty rideable – you just have to remember that it’s built to be a street legal dual sport bike and not a Beta Race Edition model. When it comes to dual sporting where you’re riding on multiple trail types or just out exploring at more mellow pace, the 500 RR-S works great and it’s easy to see the potential in the bike to further expand its performance attributes. Our tester came with the 15 tooth front sprocket installed, and unless you’re going to use this bike for commuting or going 75 miles an hour all the time, do yourself a favor and put on the 13 tooth sprocket. You can certainly ride off-road with 15 / 48 gearing, thanks in large part to the awesome clutch. But if you try and do anything technical, expect to use the crap out of that clutch and for the bike to get quite hot. With the 13 tooth, the bike is still able to cruise quite comfortably in the 50 miles per hour range and you can also rip single track and other off-road surfaces without worrying about the lifespan of your clutch or boiling over your bike.

The 500 RR-S performed acceptably in every type of riding Yet with a little effort, the bike can be massaged to perform very well on even highly diverse rides. Here are some examples: On-road and on higher speed dirt roads, the bike easily devours miles. Yet if you’re sitting down, expect to join the numb bum club in short order as the stock seat is about as comfortable as an upholstered 2x6. A swap to a Seat Concepts seat would be an easy fix and one that would turn this bike into a very comfortable dual sport machine. Betas have this awesome push-button seat release, so making this change couldn’t be any easier. With the notable exception of stock fork performance, this bike has done well on all of the single track that we’ve pointed it down. Riding standing up is where you get to appreciate the grippy pegs, and that compact feeling of having a small, agile bike between your boots. I would love to see what a 500 RR-S is like with re-valved suspension or even the fancy Ohlins A-kit suspension from the Beta Accessory catalog. With the suspension sorted, I would also throw on a steering stabilizer to help with hits that cause steering input. I fully expect these changes would make the bike quite the single track machine.

When your ride is all about exploring, the Beta is a solid bike for the job. It’s able to cruise along and pick its way through all kinds of technical trails and off-road situations. From riding up rocky washes just to see where they go, to seeking out the end of old mining roads the Beta gets it done. The big limiting factor here is going to be the bike’s fuel range, which has been surprisingly low in our experience – in the low to mid 30’s to put a number on it. To be fair though, we’ve been enjoying the 500’s motor so much that we certainly haven’t been riding in the most economical manner. All said and done, the 2022 Beta Motorcycles 500 RR-S is a unique and enjoyable platform. Bone stock, it’s ready for steet-legal dual sport riding in every state, and with the swap to the 13-tooth sprocket it’s ready for off-road riding. Thanks to features like the factory skid plate and fully featured Voyager GPS instrument, the bike comes standard with parts that are going to be must-have aftermarket add ons when building up a comparable bike from another manufacturer. With the addition of only an aftermarket seat, this bike could make many dual-sport riders a smitten kitten. Spending time with the Beta 500 RR-S has been a fun experience, and I’ve really enjoyed getting to know another interpretation of a 500-class platform. I can certainly see the potential in the bike, and I would love to set the suspension and chassis all the way up to suit my preferences. The Beta is unique and contrasted against the other bikes I’m so familiar with, I’ve found numerous little details on the Beta that I wish other brands would adopt. Whether you’re looking for your first 500, or you want to build something unique for your next 500 platform, the Beta 500 RR-S is certainly worth checking out. Go to www.betausa.com for more information.

ENGINE SPECS Type:

Single cylinder, 4-valve, (Titanium intake and Steel exhaust) 4-stroke liquid cooled, cooling fan, electric start. (back-up kick start available as an option).

Bore:

100mm

Stroke:

60.8mm

Displacement:

477.5 cc

Compression

Ratio: 11.86:1

Ignition:

DC-CDI with dual map selection, Kokusan. 200 watt output at 6000 RPM

Spark Plug:

NGK LKAR 8A-9

Lubrication:

Twin oil pumps with cartridge oil filter. Separate oil for engine and clutch .8 liter each

Fuel System:

42mm Electronic Fuel Injection (Twin Injectors)

Clutch:

Wet multi-disc

Primary Ratio:

31:72

Transmission:

6-speed

Final Drive:

O-ring chain, DID

CHASSIS SPECS Frame:

Molybdenum steel/double cradle split above exhaust port

Wheelbase:

58.7”

Seat Height:

37”

Ground Clearance:

12.6”

Footrest Height:

16.3”

Dry Weight:

243 lbs. (wet weight, no fuel)

Electrical:

Trail Tech Voyager GPS unit.

Fuel Tank:

Capacity: 2.4 US gallons

Front Suspension:

48 mm Sachs USD fork, adjustable compression, rebound, & spring preload

Rear Suspension:

Aluminum Body Sachs shock w/adjustable rebound and hi/low speed compression

Front Wheel Travel:

11.6”

Rear Wheel Travel:

11.4”

Final Gearing:

15t front, 48t rear (Comes with a 13T front for off road use)

Front Brake:

260mm rotor

Rear Brake:

240mm rotor

Front/Rear Rim:

21” (Front) 18” (Rear)

Front/Rear Tire:

Michelin Enduro (DOT Approved)

Warranty:

12 month Limited Warranty

MSRP:

$10,899.00

Destination Charge:

$389.00

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WORDS AND PHOTOS: TIM NOTIER

Marisa and I pointed the front tire of Pegasus, our KTM 1190, towards the arid plains of Namibia as the warnings about some of the riding conditions echoed from one side of my helmet to the other. “The roads there will destroy your tires.” “The sun can dehydrate you to complete exhaustion in mere hours.” And perhaps the worst of all, “You’ll hit lots of deep sand out of nowhere, and dunes can completely overtake the paved roads.” With these warnings at hand, we entered a landscape fitting for Mad Max. The two lone travelers and their trusty steed were quickly surrounded by vast nothingness of barren but beautiful desert. We were in a country twice the size of California, but with a total population less than our home city of Chicago. Being the second most scarcely populated country on earth, after Mongolia, we entered timidly from the southeast knowing that we would be on our own if something were to go wrong. “This isn’t so bad,” I said to Marisa as we rode down a nicely paved road. “Yet” was Marisa’s short answer over our intercom. There were a couple of iconic roads back in the States that stretched in an unwavering straight line that seemingly reduce down into a singularity on the edge of the universe. And the road that we were on was just as straight but ended in a shimmering blur as the heat of the day twisted the horizon into a shadowy haze. The only signs of life were the massive birds’ nest of the Sociable Weaver that clung to the utility poles lining the road. Enormous tumors of straw and twigs hung from nearly every pole that we passed, and sometimes the overburdening weight caused poles to fall to the ground. Lost in my own thoughts, I imagined the last piece of straw calmly being added to the nest by a tranquil bird only to have reached the failing load limit of the structure as it collapsed, and I began to think of our motorcycle. We weren’t necessarily packed ‘light’, and as we weaved around the world sociably, I knew that we were on the very edge, if not over, the bike’s manufactures recommended weight limit.

But for now, the bike coasted along the road like one of the million particles of sand that drifted in the breeze. We picked a camping spot that was connected to an old farmhouse called ‘The White House’. It was built in the early 1900’s in a town called Grünau. While using Google Map’s satellite view to pinpoint our target, it looked as if we were on some barren and uninhabitable moon of Mars. Nothing but red rock-bed covered the entire width of our phone screen that stretched for hundreds of miles in any direction that we scrolled. What seemed even less inviting was the fact that “The White House” was translated to ‘DIE WITHUIS’ on Google Maps. “Does that say, “Die with us?” I nervously asked as I confirmed the location of our campsite. Marisa, who is much more intelligent than I, quickly corrected me, “It’s either written in Afrikaans or German.” I was glad that Marisa was by my side. Her knowledge, support, and translating skills had gotten me through many hard times, and in this case, convinced me that our campsite didn’t have the potential of being our last. As we turned off our perfectly straight asphalt road, we bumped along our first section of Namibian sand. Both tires immediately sank three inches into the ground, but I twisted the throttle as the bike danced back and forth from one side of the road to the other. Sometimes in graceful motions of precision and the elegance of a ballroom dancer, other times in sporadic convulsions via a mashup of jazz, swing, and hip hop as I attempted to move the bike towards our temporary home. Once at camp, the tent was set up under a night sky full of more twinkling starlight than there was the blackness of space between them. Life was good, the air was cool and crisp, and the distant sounds of goats could be heard from somewhere far away. Our first sightseeing destination in Namibia was Fish River Canyon, a gouge in the earth that was cut into the ground haphazardly as if Paul Bunyan may have had one too many drinks while dragging his heavy ax behind him. The ride to the canyon was through an alien landscape of black hills that popped out of the ground with strange looking trees spread across the land. These Quiver Trees looked to be something out of Dr. Seuss’s imagination. They seemed to be a cross between a Joshua tree, palm tree, and a cactus.

I pulled over to take some pictures to capture the moment in detail. “This is amazing,” I said as I snapped shots of an old windmill that must have stopped working half a century ago. An oryx, a type of antelope, was escaping the day’s heat under the rare shade of a large tree. As it stared back at me, its white and black face looked like the patterns of an old Zulu battle shield. I turned around to point out the oryx to Marisa to find that she had found her own thin slice of a shadow beneath a tree with no foliage. She sat under the thin whispers of shade drinking water to keep hydrated, and my sense of thirst immediately reminded me to do the same. The sun was barely a quarter of the way into the sky, and its rays of heat were already strong enough to dry my mouth and crack my lips. With a sufficient number of photos of which will provide a lifetime of memories, and a healthy amount of our water supply already gone, we carried on to Fish River Canyon. Back in Lesotho, I had made some poor choices when it came to photo opportunities near cliff edges. I had nearly ended our journey with a fading scream as I almost plummeted down the bluff across from Maletsunyane Falls. I wouldn’t be making that same mistake again. I could now feel Marisa’s stern and unyielding eyes burning a hole through the back of my helmet, so I kept a more reasonable distance from the drop off to certain doom. Even from a respectable distance, the views were astonishing. There were no guardrails or barriers to protect against careless drivers, but instead just an immediate drop off into the massive trench in the earth. Marisa and I began to realize that all of the standard tourist ‘hot spots’ were rarely ever overrun with crowds in Africa, especially not here in the high temperatures of the afternoon. We weren’t much of hikers to begin with, and even less so when heat exhaustion cut our stamina in half. We decided it was better to be on the bike with fresh air blowing across our faces.

Our next destination was one of the country’s most visited places called Sossusvlei. It’s a massive collection of sand that creates a sea of red dunes and is one of Namibia’s most iconic images. We were warned about the road that led to the famous dunes, but just like any dark comedy movie script, it started off nice and peaceful; just a wide straight stretch of gravel with an occasional 4x4 that flew past us. I was taking it nice and slow to enjoy the views, but we were left coughing in the dust that the large vehicles lofted into the air. And then things got a little nastier. The road became covered in corrugations that made the bike shake like a broken washing machine. I could only imagine every bolt on the motorcycle becoming loose as we rattled towards our destination. Then we started to hit pockets of deep sand that were perfectly camouflaged with the harder, compact sections of sand. The motorcycle seemed to buck and rear in an effort to dismount us through short sandpits, only to right itself once through to the other side. “That was close,” I confessed to Marisa as I pulled over for some water. “Just take your time,” she said. “You’re doing great.” I headed further west carefully as I started to notice chewedup tires on the side of the road as if they were mile markers. Then we hit a particularly long stretch of sand that went on for a hundred yards. I throttled through as long as I could, but the front tire refused to plow forward in a straight line. The bike started to wobble to one side, then to the other, until the front tire was swaying so sharply that there was no saving us. We went sliding to the ground in a long dramatic power slide. With the smell of gasoline in the air from it leaking out of the overflow hose, we first checked on each other, and then lifted the motorcycle back upright. As soon as I remounted the KTM, I heard a loud crunch underneath me. Cutting through the smell of gas was the familiar smell of oil. Not an oil leak from the main engine casing, but that of a broken monoshock. I looked off to the mountains on the horizon wavering in the heat of the day as if they were illusions. We could see utopia in the distance, but we had no way of reaching it.

I leaned down and sighed as I saw that the internal metal rod that guided the shock had snapped in half. “This isn’t good,” I said. We were in a country that did not have a KTM dealership, and moreover, we were in the middle of nowhere, hours away from anything. “How are we going to get out of here?” Marisa asked over my shoulder. “We have no choice but to continue down the road,” I said stubbornly. “But we seem to always get ourselves out of predicaments like this... somehow.” We looked at the positives: the bike still worked, it was just grinding on its hinges as we rode it, creaking and complaining. But after a few miles of plugging along, we noticed a gate to a house. Private property certainly. But with limited daylight, water, and options, we opened that gate and rode through. The owner came out and was extremely helpful. He called all five people who lived in the surrounding thousand hectors to see if any of them knew a guy with a tow truck. Finally, he told us there was a man down the road who owned a farm who just happened to be leaving for Windhoek (Namibia’s capital city) with a nearly empty trailer the following morning. What are the odds? A thousand to one? A million to one? Who knows for sure, but I was ecstatic that I was that one. Somehow in the vast barren desert, our newest potential savior was only six minutes away. It took us twenty minutes to get to him at a cringing snail’s pace, but we made it. In what seemed to be the most unlikely of miracles, the owner graciously allowed us to put our broken motorcycle in his trailer, and the following morning at sunrise, he drove us six hours to Windhoek were there was a mechanic that could mend the bike’s wounds. Even with a broken leg, we wouldn’t have to put her down quite yet. The sands of Namibia may have tried to swallow us whole, but there was light at the end of the tunnel. Our journey would not be ending, it was just at a standstill until we were able to nobly ride back into the sunset on our trusty steed, Pegasus.

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