Upshift Issue 75 - November 2022

Please make no

into the unknown

Confidently go wherever your inner voice leads

with the new

a

890

it is the

a

match its

Photo: M. Campelli, Fotografie Mitterbauer

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations. The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

CHOOSE TO HAVE IT ALL

Built to excel in the dirt and on the tarmac, the new Tiger 1200 Rally Pro is the all-new globe-busting, desert-crossing, mountain-conquering adventure champion.

Powered by a new 1200 triple engine, the unique T-Plane design blends the low-speed capability of a twin with the top-end performance of a triple, for excellent traction in tough conditions, and supreme performance on the road. Add to that an all-new chassis that’s significantly lighter and more agile, long travel semi-active suspension and feature-packed technology, for unprecedented capability off-road and on. The all-new Tiger 1200 Rally Pro. It’s time to reset your adventure expectations. From $22,500 MSRP. Find out more at triumphmotorcycles.com

OH YEAH!

By Staff

Like any grand adventure, you always hope the journey takes you to incredible places, crosses paths with interesting characters, and inspires you to venture even further. After 75 issues over the course of 6+ years, Upshift Online has become a grand adventure indeed. From its grassroots origin in the garage of a seasoned industry veteran, the magazine launched into what we saw as a void; a space in the motorcycle world that seemed neglected and under appreciated. Upshift started with the goal of providing the off-road adventure audience with not only a free publication, but also a community.

Though not the biggest money-making idea, every free issue of Upshift over the last 6 years has enabled us to grow a worldwide community of enthusiasts. We have met countless riders, business partners, inventors, and friends along this journey, all of whom have helped build Upshift throughout its infancy, sustained it through its challenges, and now propel it forward into the future. If it were not for this collective group of adventure-loving riders, we could not do what we love: sharing your stories and inspiring your next off-road endeavor. Which brings us to Upshift’s store. We’ve always wanted to see the adventure motorcycle circle grow, but we could not have imagined that the community would grow around Upshift itself. However, after a few graphics kits first went flying off our digital shelves, it was clear to us that people wanted to be a part of what we were doing. That unwavering support is what has encouraged us to cultivate a store that offers riders innovative, imaginative products, as well as a way for those riders to contribute to the next issue of the magazine. The store is what kept us alive during the pandemic and helps us to grow stronger today. Again, we can’t thank our readers enough for their role in each and every magazine.

We have come a long way in 75 issues, but at our core we are still as grassroots as ever, committed to the community that has gathered around us, and looking ahead to the many adventures that await. Happy trails!

Alpinestars Bogota’ Pro Drystar® Jacket

The all-season Bogotá Pro Drystar ® Jacket has been engineered to deliver optimal protection, weather performance and comfort, and utilizes Alpinestars’ Drystar ® membrane for 100 percent waterproof and breathable performance. The three-layer ‘liner to drop’ system allows the jacket to be configured to the conditions, while being quick and easy to use. The Bogotá has extensive ventilation panels on the chest, full back and arms for effective climate control in any conditions. MSRP: $399.95. www.alpinestars.com

Features:

• Tech-Air ® Ready and can accommodate the Tech-Air ® 5 or Tech-Air® 3 Airbag System.

• The Bogotá Pro has extensive ventilation panels on the chest, full back, and arms with a unique sleeve vent construction and wide mesh panel for effective climate control in any conditions.

• The direct ventilation panels on the chest and arms can be operated with one hand for fast and effective climate control on the go.

• Level 2 CE Nucleon Flex Pro shoulder and elbow armor for effective protection against impacts.

• Extensive stretch inserts around armpit for optimum freedom of movement and an enhanced fit.

• Pre-curved sleeves are engineered with a rotated design to follow the shape of the arm while delivering superior freedom of movement and range of motion while in the riding position.

• Detachable 100g body, 60g full sleeve thermal liner allows the jacket to be configured to the conditions.

Motion Pro Universal FI Hose Kit

Have you ever found yourself out on a trail and damaged your fuel injection line so bad that you are left stranded? Well, Motion Pro has the answer for you, the new universal Fuel Injection Hose Kit is a must have item in your tool pack. The Line has multiple bends so you can cut the correct section to fit your bike. www.motionpro.com

Features:

• Universal preformed FI line includes 2” of fuel line at 60° and 45° bends, plus additional 4” at 90° bend allows you to cut and make almost any shape

• Includes 5/16” x 5/16” straight barb fitting Part No. 12-0087

• Fits most OEM 5/16” or 8 mm ID applications

• EPA/CARB Certified

• SAE J30 standard is safe for gasoline, diesel, and oil

• Temp range -40°C ~ 150°C

• Designed to fit in your travel tool kit

• Clamps not included

FLY Formula CC Driver Helmet

The Formula CC’s Adaptive Impact System (AIS) whose high-performance ecosystem of structural designs and energy mitigating materials- including RHEON, a leading edge visco-elastic material- is fine tuned to greatly improve impact management over traditional helmets. Tested to exceed ECE and DOT standards, The Formula CC helmet redefines expectations in helmet technology and performance. MSRP: $499.95. www.flyracing.com

Features:

• ECE / DOT approved

• Adaptive Impact System (AIS)

• Tri-weave composite shell is comprised of carbon fiber, DuPont™ Kevlar ® and fiberglass, producing a lightweight shell with superior penetration resistance

• Impact Energy Cells made of RHEON, the Impact Energy Cells maximize absorption of low speed linear and rotational impacts, reducing forces transmitted to the brain

• Conehead ® Dual-density Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) Technology

• Expanded Polypropylene (EPP) chin bar creates an additional element of impact mitigation, and is used in the chin bar for its superior damage resistance, and energy absorbing properties

• Clavicle shell relief zone creates a soft zone filled with EPS and EPP to aid in reducing clavicle injuries

• Custom molded rubber trim with integrated nose guard

• Lightweight custom visor screws and stainless-steel D-rings

• 1340 grams +/-50g (size MD/LG), 2.9 pounds +/-0.11lb (size MD/LG)

• Comfort liner and quick release cheek pads are made of washable moisture-wicking, anti-microbial material

Mosko Moto Surveyor Soft Shell Jacket

When temperatures drop and trail riding is at its best, sometimes a hard shell is too much, and a jersey doesn’t quite cut it. The Surveyor Jacket fills that gap. Wind resistant and highly breathable the Surveyor Jacket is built for high output riding in cooler temps.

Made from durable stretch Cordura® for increased abrasion and snag resistance for those close calls and unexpected get-offs. While the 4way stretch materials offer unmatched comfort and mobility. Cut for a close to body over armor fit, the Surveyor Jacket can be worn with or without armor making it a solid choice on the trail or at the trailhead.

The Surveyor Jacket is right at home in the woods on long rides as the days grow shorter or chasing a receding snow line as the season gets under way. DWR water protection and wind resistance keep you comfortable in mild weather.

Two oversized mesh-lined hand pockets double as vents with flow-through venting. With one external and one internal chest pocket to keep essen tials close at hand. Inspired by road and mountain biking bibs, the lumbar game pocket features three internal pockets for on-body storage. These pockets sit low enough to be compatible with our Wildcat Backpacks. Load them up for added storage on big days or ditch the pack and pair with a Reckless 10L. Comes in woodland (shown) or black colorways. Price: $219.00. www.moskomoto.com

*Depending

Suzuki Motor

Suzuki Dealers are taking orders now. Claim yours.

PHOTO: @RALLY_ZONE

PHOTO: HONDA RACING

PHOTO:

PHOTO: @RALLY_ZONE

PHOTO: @RALLY_ZONE

PHOTO: @RALLY_ZONE

MASON

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

PHOTO: BRIAN DAVID

PHOTO: TRAVIS GILL

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

O

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

PHOTO: BRIAN DAVID

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PHOTO: TRAVIS GILL

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULXOREGON

Pennsylvania is a secret gem on the East Coast. When seeking outdoor adventure in the Northeast, riders might think first of locations like Maine and Vermont. Perhaps New York. Pennsylvania is usually skipped over for other states with more towering mountains, deeper lakes, and less people.

As they do, the Backcountry Discovery Route team has stum bled on a secret in the middle of Pennsylvania, called the PA Wilds, an area home to millions of acres of unspoiled forests and mountains, and now they’re helping others to discover it with their latest BDR-X route. Launched August 31st of 2022, this route offers four days of riding in a loop route that inter sects with the existing Mid-Atlantic Backcountry Discovery Route (MABDR), offering over 500 miles of primo backcoun try riding terrain through Pennsylvania’s state forests.

Words: Amelia Nunn Photos: Brian David Photography

The PA BDR-X is the second of the BDR-X series of shorter BDR-style routes that loop, and a winning one in my book. In a world where we are all striving to be better riders, to ride more extreme terrain, to fit all the gear in even less space, to camp for longer and to just do MORE, the ADV world sometimes lacks more realistic riding opportunities. I’m not knocking the big bike, epic views and scary terrain. I strongly believe there are some heroic rides that should be experienced by all ADV riders at some point, but this BDR-X model makes a multi-day adventure a bit more manageable to those just getting into the sport, riders without unlimited vacation days, and those who lack logistical prowess to make long distance multi-week rides happen. In June I was invited to join the BDR crew to test out this route during the filming expedition, and it definitely delivered. Sweeping gravel roads, ferns covering the forest floor for miles, large and small wildlife sightings, canyons (the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon, to be exact) optional mud pits, and, of course, mandatory ice cream. The beauty of this route is its simplicity, accessibility, and ease of planning. Lodging is abundant along the route for those who prefer the comforts of a hotel to camping. The route starts and ends in the same place, eliminating all logistical gymnastics of slabbing back to a car or leaving a second vehicle along the route.

Stating the obvious, everyone’s experience on this route will be different. Weather changes, bike breakdowns, wildlife encounters, and ice cream consumption will vary greatly, but a major, and perhaps the most significant component of any ride, is the people you’re riding with.

On this trip I was representing the route sponsor, REV’IT!, as a member of the REV’IT! Women’s Adventure Team, riding my KTM 1090. The team was led by route architect and our local guide/ADV extraordinaire Jack O’Connor (Husqvarna 701), who shared historical context and tid bits about every point of interest along the route. BDR Board President and fellow New Jersey native Tim James (on the Yamaha Tenere 700), is a familiar face to BDR fans. Tim always managed to find the best places to make bike modifications so that I was perfectly placed for wild life viewing. Rounding out our group was the editor of ADVMoto Magazine and a perennial good mood guy Carl Parker (on the Royal Enfield Himalayan). Every group needs at least one Carl on their trip!

While it was my first time riding with this crew, it was not my first BDR nor my first time riding in this part of Pennsyl vania. Having tackled parts or the entirety of six different BDR routes, I knew roughly what to expect while on the route. The same easy-to-navigate tracks, points of inter est, and thoughtful route planning remain consistent in this new route, but it wasn’t stale or boring. This route showed me new additions to gravel I thought I had covered a hun dred times over, as well as new points of interest and new ice cream flavors (Tea-berry ice cream? Twist my arm). The joys of experiencing the same tracks with new peo ple, or new tracks with familiar people, are part of the charm of a BDR or any planned multi-day ride. You learn a little from each personality, you follow a different per son’s line down a trail and the trip changes.

The route itself is one of the most mellow BDR options. Riders who skip the more technical optional sections will re main on scenic gravel forest roads for most of the route. The lighthearted riding still delivers on the adventure expe rience and the fun factor, whether you’re rounding a turn to scare bears off the road or pondering your good fortune from some of the best viewpoints in the Pennsylvania mountains.

Ultimately that’s why we ride BDRs - to get that taste of adventure, to experience the camaraderie with our team, and to see places that are off the beaten path, but are still within a short (or long) reach. This route offers a more accessible way to get that taste of adventure, and to make experiences that last a lifetime.

For more information about this route, visit www.RideBDR.com/PAwilds.

Chris Birch Adventure Bike RIDING CLASS

Chris Birch is someone who should need no introduction to the readers of Upshift. He’s a legend in the motorcycle world with a most impressive racing resume and dream gig, working with the KTM group (going on 15 years) where he gets to do all sorts of awesome things like ride the latest orange bikes in their commercials. Go check out the videos for the new 1290 Super Adventure R and the 2023 890 Adventure R if you haven’t seen them yet – they will absolutely get you stoked and you’ll be quite humbled by what Birchy can do on these bikes. Speaking of videos, Chris also has two series of top shelf instructional videos for adventure bikes and dirt bikes, sold through his coaching company Say No To Slow. These videos are outstanding and will absolutely make you a better rider if you take the time to work on what’s being taught. Yet watching these videos will make you want to learn from Chris in person, so when the opportunity presented itself to take a two day adventure riding class with Birchy in Richfield, Utah, I jumped at the chance to learn from the legend.

If you were getting ready to Google the location of Richfield, UT, I’ll save you a step – where Richfield sits on the map (On Interstate 70, just East of where I-70 ties into I-15) isn’t quite as important as what’s around Richfield: miles and miles of public land that comprise a little bit of every biome that makes Utah so rad. Starting in the lower elevations you’ll find Moab-esq sedimentary rock layers, and adobe hills like you would find in Hanksville or Factory Butte. Moving up from the lower elevations, high desert foothills with scrub and sage brush feed into mountains covered in aspen trees showing off their fall colors. There are endless miles of roads, trails, and open OHV areas that tie all of these individually awesome places together. Utah is a great place to ride.

Day one of the class started off at the local powersports/Ford dealer/sporting goods shop/archery shop/restaurant/bowling alley/ impressive family business with Chris covering bike setup. Just as in his adventure bike video series, the flow of the class starts with basics like bike setup and foundational techniques before moving into the exciting things like wheelies and hill climbs. Proper bike setup is ab solutely critical to ensure that you’re getting the most out of your bike.

Bad setup can actively work against the rider and make the bike harder to ride. Unfortunately, adventure riders are some of the worst offenders when it comes to making bad setup choices, so there’s a number of things that need to be addressed. Right from the start, Chris’ skill as instructor started to show – he explained the how and the why of proper bike setup, and you could see the light bulbs starting to go off over stu dents’ heads. Out came the tools and the whole group engaged in making changes to their setups while Chris and his good friend, rockstar rider and co instructor Chris Whitehouse, orbited around the various bikes to help students out.

After a couple of hours of nerding out on settings, we set off to our first training area. Now in the dirt, Chris started covering body position. His teaching method is top shelf – he’s able to effectively communicate and re late information to riders of all ages and from all walks of life while keeping the entire class engaged and attentive. His demonstrations quite effectively reinforce his key points, and the whole thing is packaged with just the right amount of humor to make learning as fun and engaging as possible.

With body position covered, the class applied what it had just learned to braking and cornering drills. The impact of technique was blatantly obvious in a braking drill where using only the back brake, students had to come to a complete stop in a box marked by cones without skidding the rear tire before starting off again. Students who embraced proper technique and com mitted to the drill made noticeable improvements on each attempt, while the few students who didn’t commit sailed right through the stopping box. Lesson learned.

TAP THE MAP FOR YOUR NEXT OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE

Explore thousands of miles of interactive trails for 4x4, SxS, ATV, and dirt bikes across the nation. Color-coded trails let you see which are open with just a glance. Tap on any trail to access details like difficulty rating, clearance level, duration, open and close dates, trail photos, and more. Your paper maps can’t do that.

Download the app: onxoffroad.com

As the day progressed, each new skill covered built on the previous skills in what Birchy calls “descending level of importance, increasing level of excitement.”

In other words, standing cornering takes good body position and good braking technique, and when you correctly apply these foundational components, you’ll feel things start to click as you up your standing corner ing game. Whitehouse created a couple of cornering tracks with hardpack soil where you could get away with much more than you could in soft sandy corners where technique really matters. Riding laps on a cor nering track may not sound like the most fun, but it’s a great drill that every rider should practice as the learn ing is powerful.

Once the cornering tracks were well sessioned, the class set off for a trail ride to cap off the first day’s class. We set off into the mountains North of Richfield on roads and tracks ranging from hard packed primary dirt roads to loose, rocky, rutted two tracks with a few technical moves thrown in for a little extra excitement. Utah always provides a good time, and this afternoon was no exception with the temperature and scenery pegged at perfect.

Day two of the class kicked off with a ride down a good stretch of gravel road to a new training area. With more room to play, the class started working on balance drills. The idea here is to balance with your body, not by making steering inputs. Practice started in a straight line before being applied to techniques like cornering on the steering stops at low speed. As the class worked the morning away, a massive thunder head started to build in the distance.

Good balance is a key component of learning to wheelie. Even if you have zero interest in pulling big balance point wheelies, learning how to loft the front end is an important skill for riding off-road. Birchy and Whitehouse did a great job working with all of the students while building up to a wheelie. Some students had 1290s while others were on dirt bikes and everything else in between, yet the Chris-es were able to effectively teach each student. As the storm loomed overhead, students started getting their front tires in the air. A short while later, the first rain drops started to fall so the class bailed to town to avoid the slip and slide that is Utah soil during a good rain.

It rained hard as the class took a break for lunch. In the parking lot, a trail fix was rigged for a 1290’s rear brake lever that didn’t tolerate stopping the bike by being drug across the ground after a failed wheelie attempt. With bikes patched up and bellies full, a smaller class set out into the breaking storm for the afternoon.

The rain had turned the normally soft and dry Utah soil into a slippery, greasy mud that packs up tires and is treacherous to walk on. Yet it’s all part of the adventure and a great learning opportunity, so the students who were not afraid to play in the mud, turned off of the relative safety of the paved road while others decided to call it a day and headed back to town. Jumping back to bike setup for

a minute, we discussed how bike setup needs to reflect the conditions we are riding in, so we aired down our tires looking for additional traction as we prepared to embark on a slip and slide ride. Yet the slick mud was short lived - as soon as we reached the hills, we were rewarded with hero dirt and it was game on as we started working on hill descents, climbs, and the ever important aborted hill climb.

After a few more hours of instruction, the class switched gears into a free ride in an open OHV area. There were endless options for trails that worked their way down canyons, up along ridgelines, and plenty of whoops, bermed corners, and cool features to ride on as we worked our way back in the general direction of town. Thanks to the well moistened dirt, conditions were choice in this giant playground and we sessioned a few spots with jumps and other fun lines. After winding our way down a canyon, we came across a local crew of riders on a rainbow of different 450s playing on some proper hill climbs. They looked at us with the obvious, “what are you guys doing?” as we pulled up on our big adventure bikes to watch these guys try and send a few lines. With no preamble, Birchy pointed his 890R up the gnarliest line and cleaned it. The local kids, slack-jaw surprise obvious, made impressed comments that are not printable. As Birchy rejoined the group, one of the locals made a comment about his bike, to which Chris Birch ever the funny, humble, world-class rider replied, “it is a dirtbike!” I can’t think of a better way to summarize what adventure bikes can be when you set them up properly, use the right techniques, and then go ride them in some epic places.

Motorcycle racers will tell you that it’s always humbling “how much faster fast gets.” After taking a class with Chris Birch, I think the same holds true for motorcycle instructors, in that it’s profound how much better great instructors can get. I was truly impressed with Chris’ ability to teach to the entire class, adapt his curriculum, and engage and challenge all of the students while working through changing weather and locations. Perhaps the best measure of his class was the fact that the few students who were still riding at the end of day two all ended up around a few pitchers at the local bar. A group of complete strangers less than 48 hours ago, this small crew of riders laughed and enjoyed each other’s company like old friends. Over the last couple of days, this group of riders pushed their boundaries, expanded their skills and their horizons, and judging by the smiles on their faces and the mud on their boots had an absolutely killer time riding their motorcycles.

Chris Birch calls New Zealand home, so give the man a follow on the social medias or shoot him a contact form on his website at saynotoslow.nz to be kept in the loop on future in-person learning opportunities in the United States and other locations. Chris will be back in the US for classes in 2023, yet you can start to learn from him today by checking his instructional video series which are also available on his website. Spending money on learning to become a better rider is the best thing that you can buy for motorcy cling, and Chris Birch is an outstanding resource for dirt bike and adventure bike instruction.

Coolant has been

from start-to-finish. With superior

vs.

it’s what more street and dirt riders like Motocross /Supercross legend & current

tour guide, Jeff Stanton, depend on to keep things cool.

JEFF STANTON

National Motocross/Supercross Champion Adventure Tour Guide

GARMIN INREACH MINI 2

Satellite communicators are essential, life saving tools for anyone who chooses to explore the remote places of the world – especially for folks who travel solo. With a satellite com municator, as long as the user can obtain a satellite fix, they can send and receive mes sages, perform a number of other useful tasks, and request help if needed. Whether you’re looking for a way to keep your loved ones posted on your status while out riding (or doing anything else outside) or you’re looking for an ace up your sleeve should you get in trouble, a device like a Garmin inReach Mini 2 is worth its weight in gold.

The inReach Mini 2 is the latest generation of satellite communicators from Garmin, a com pany whose name is synonymous with top shelf GPS gadgetry. No larger than a deck of cards, the inReach Mini 2 can easily be brought along on any adventure. The device is IPX7 rated, so it’s happy as a clam when clipped onto the strap of your backpack or elsewhere on your kit where it can be fully exposed to the elements. The antenna works best when pointed up toward the sky, which is why you’ll see all sorts of gear with specific inReach pockets that hold the device in the correct orientation for best GPS reception. A great example of this is the Mosko Moto Wildcat backpack that we tested in the last issue.

To use the inReach Mini 2, you can either directly interface with the device, or you can use your phone which makes messaging functions exponentially easier. Pair the inReach with your phone, and then by using the Garmin Explore app, you can send and receive messages through an interface that’s just like texting over a regular wireless data connec tion. Messaging with the inReach happens at a slower pace than regular text messaging, so it’s important to make the most out of each message that you’re sending. Likewise, it’s a good idea to coach anyone that you’re going to communicate with on how to communicate effectively. In ideal conditions, messages take just a couple minutes to make it to their destination, but they can certainly take longer too – so be patient.

Users can also configure three preset messages on their inReach, which are great for sending quick status updates that don’t count against the number of messages on your subscription plan. More on subscriptions in a minute. When sending a message, the inReach user can also provide a link to a web-page where the recipient(s) can see where on earth the message was sent from. The location of an inReach can also be pinged at any time by performing a location request. InReach devices can also record and share their location at fixed intervals by enabling tracking mode. This tracking information is synced to an access-controlled web-page, so you can control who can see your tracking history. Depending on the subscription plan, tracking intervals can range from two minutes to 30 minutes.

Subscription plans let you choose things like number of messages, tracking intervals, and other features available per billing cycle. Garmin has annual plans and monthly plans (called Freedom plans) where you can jump around between different levels of service as your needs change. For more information on plan options, check out: https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/837461

One of the main reasons folks purchase an inReach is for the SOS functionality. When a user hits the SOS button on their inReach device, the SOS request is routed to Garmin’s International Emergency Response Coordination Center (IERCC). The IERCC manages the SOS request, determining pertinent information and coordinat ing response efforts with local Search and Rescue or first responder resources. The real value of this SOS feature is that Garmin can communicate with the inReach user to determine the nature of the SOS request. This means that the response can better meet the needs of the emergency. It’s important to remember that the SOS button isn’t like a video game, where support shows up in seconds. Depending on where you are and what resources are available, a response may take hours to reach you. An inReach is a great tool to call for help, but you still need to be prepared to hold out until help arrives.

If you’ve ever gotten home late from a ride or other adventure only to find a worried wife/partner/emergency contact waiting for you – know than an inReach is the best peace of mind you can provide to the people who care about you. With an inReach, your contacts or loved ones can big brother you at any time and see where you are, and where you’ve been. Conversely, an inReach makes sending a quick “checking in, all is well” or any other message super easy, so communicating with the outside world is almost always an option. From coordinating two groups meeting up in the bottom of the Grand Canyon, to simply pulling down a weather forecast when cell coverage is non-existent, an inReach is a great tool to have with you when you’re playing outside.

Just like your phone is a complex device, an inReach is a device with a learning curve that requires reading and understanding to get the most out of it. Take the time to consult the manual and the university of YouTube to get up to speed on how these devices work. It’s important to remember that like any other technology, the inReach has limitations on its performance. The battery life is quite impressive, lasting well over a week in ideal conditions, but cold weather, canyons or other terrain features that impact its ability to see the sky will affect its performance and battery life. In other words, don’t expect to be able to inReach your way out of a mine shaft should you happen to fall into one.

I’ve been using inReach devices since they were first introduced as a Delorme product (later acquired by Garmin) several years ago. In that time, the various generations of inReach devices that I’ve had have proven to be invaluable. I’ve never had to hit the SOS button, but an inReach message has certainly helped save or enable countless adventures. Whether that was requesting mission critical gear to be hiked into the bottom of the Grand Canyon for a film production, or being able to run a key piece of gear to a buddy on a once in a lifetime hunt, being able to communicate almost anywhere on earth is a power that can’t be overstated. An inReach can also make life so much better for your loved ones. I know my wife and/or the people looking after me while I’m outdoors greatly appreciate the fact that they can call up a web-page and see my location in minutes. Knowing that my family isn’t stressing my whereabouts gives all of us peace of mind. Satellite communicators like the Garmin inReach Mini 2 are incredibly powerful devices, effectively putting the world in reach. To learn more about inReach devices, visit Garmin.com/inreach.

PURCHASE A GARMIN INREACH MINI 2 FROM THE

STORE

KLIM RAPTOR GTX

KLIM’s design approach to motorcycle apparel focuses on the use of integrated armor. From their top shelf systems like the Badlands Pro A3, to their entry level gear, pads either come integrated into the garment, or there are pockets in the garment to add your own pads down the road if you choose. Yet the Raptor GTX is different – it’s the first motorcycle gear system from KLIM that’s designed to work with separate armor, in what KLIM calls a shell-over system. This means that you can ride in your favorite off-road jersey, armor, and pants when the weather is nice. When things start to get cold, wet, or nasty, you can don the Raptor GTX jacket and pants, and press on in a fully featured Gore-Tex riding shell that’s purpose built for aggressive off-road or adventure riding.

The Raptor GTX jacket and pants have a minimalist design that strikes an ideal balance between features and packable size. Starting with the jacket, you’ll find Super Fabric on the shoulders and elbows, with strong Cordura face fabrics rounding out the rest of the jacket. Bicep, side, and dual exhaust vents, combined with tabs for holding the collar open, allow the jacket to move a respectable amount of air. Two hand pockets and two internal chest pockets provide storage or a warm place to tuck your hands on a cold day. In short, the Raptor GTX jacket is a riding-optimized shell jacket that can tolerate plowing through trees and withstand the occasional off, yet it can easily be rolled up and stashed when it’s not needed.

Moving on to the Raptor GTX pants, you’ll find the same design approach with some of KLIM’s best pant features. Thigh intake and exhaust vents move air whether you’re seated or standing. Two leg pockets can easily be accessed even when you’re sitting on the bike, and they won’t dump their contents should you forget to zip them up when you’re walking around. Ask me how I know. Super Fabric panels protect the knees, and strategic reinforcement to high wear areas (in the knees for knee braces, inside of leg, etc.) are found throughout the pants. The belt buckle uses an awesome magnetic closure system and I love the little details like the KTM style screw for a zipper pull. Like the Raptor GTX jacket, the pants can be rolled up and easily stashed when they’re not needed. Fit is the usual comfortable nonrestrictive fit that you can expect in a pant from KLIM. Our testers have run these pants over off-road pants with pads, and directly over pads without any issues.

Fit on the Raptor GTX jacket is more of a mixed bag. The jacket is cut to fit over separate armor, which can run the spectrum from soft pads like Leatt 3DF to rigid armor like a MX style chest protector. Yet all of our testers in dependently identified that the jacket was a little tight across the back and shoulders, and loose in the belly even when the waist adjustment straps on the jacket were all the way tight. Our testers were either running Leatt-style armor or no armor at all when they made these observations. KLIM states that the Raptor GTX jacket should be ordered in your normal KLIM jacket size, but it may be worth going up a size to avoid a jacket that’s tight across the back.

Even with a less than perfect fit in the jacket, the Raptor GTX is a really ap pealing riding gear system. If you haven’t tried riding with separate armor, you really need to. When the weather is nice or when it’s hot out, there isn’t a vented waterproof jacket that can compete with the comfort and thermal performance of a jersey, separate armor, and good pair of off-road pants. When things start to cool off or start to get wet, you simply bust out the Raptor jacket and pants and quickly toss them on over your other riding gear. This way, you’re only dealing with your shell when you need/want it. Even in properly cold conditions, separate armor and proper layering beats trying to shoehorn insulation layers into riding gear with integrated pads. Insulation layers work better when they’re not compressed, so you’ll find that riding gear like the Raptor GTX allows layers to perform to their full potential where other riding gear that’s compressing your insulation will be less warm.

Whether your mission is a cold and wet fall adventure ride, or you just want to have an ace up your sleeve for unex pected weather, the KLIM Raptor GTX is a solid option. It’s great to see KLIM get into the separate armor layering game, and I’m quite eager to see what the future holds for KLIM products that support this approach. The Raptor GTX is a strong first offering. This gear set provides a great balance of features, function, and packable size, making it easy to bring a burly, functional waterproof shell with you on almost any ride. The pants bring the always-great KLIM fit and features to the table, and after battling other brands of pants with skinny jeans super tight fit, or pockets you can’t get into unless you’re standing in the exact right position, it’s great to have a pair of pants that are comfortable, unrestrictive, and that have pockets I can get into whenever I want. The jacket may not have the best fit, but its features and design make it a solid option for a waterproof layer that hits the spot between durability and packable size. For more information on the RAPTOR GTX, visit www.klim.com.

set

BY TRAVIS GILL OF VIAJARMOTO.COM

JOHN O’ GROATS TO LAND’S END – PART 1

Our senses were full of excitement as we climbed onto our motorcycles. The strong odor of gasoline and diesel exhaust, as hundreds of cars and trucks were all started at once. The high-pitched whine of hydraulic motors, that lowered the humongous boarding ramp to the dock. The intense morning light that poured into the gray metal confines of the ferry’s car deck, revealing the technicolor greens and blues of the outside world. The tactile feel of our leather gloves, wrapped around the rubber grips and handlebars of our BMW G650GS motorcycles. With the excitement of new discoveries, we twisted the throttle and eased our tires onto the road surface and onto the island of Great Britain – albeit on the left side of the road.

“Remember, left to live!” I said into our helmet intercom, as we entered the first roundabout that went in a clockwise direction. “Yep. Stay left if you want to live long here!” Chantil wittingly replied.

We both felt the renewed buzz of being in a new region. The ferry MV Stena Britannica had delivered us comfortably from the Netherlands of mainland Europe, across the North Sea, to Great Britain – the largest island of the British Isles. We planned to enjoy all three countries of Great Britain to include England, Wales, and Scotland. Especially the more remote northern regions of the Scottish Highlands.

“It will be nice to be in a country where they speak the same language.” Chantil said, as we passed signs written in familiar English. “I’m also looking forward to some delicious fish-n-chips.” I replied. Chantil added, “How about some English-style breakfast as well?”

“Except without the baked beans!” I countered, “Not for breakfast.”

“Or haggis, that doesn’t sound appealing either.” Chantil said, with a grimace of the thought of eating sheep guts, boiled in its own stomach.

Fortunately, Scotland had a lot more to offer than haggis – So much more!

The Mythical Kelpies of Scotland

With the summer season drawing to an end, we pointed our handlebars north towards the highlands of Scotland, but not before stopping to visit a magical sculpture known as The Kelpies. This massive horse-head sculpture, designed by sculptor Andy Scott, was completed in 2014, and is the centerpiece of a park and series of canals named The Helix.

The two horses, modeled after the Clydesdale working horses of Scotland, are impressive to view as you ride by from the nearby M9 motorway, but they are even more spectacular when viewed at night. We made sure to rent a room at the nearby Premier Lodge, so we could park the motorcycles, pack our tripod and camera, and capture the magnificent colors of The Kelpies after sunset.

The Kelpies name reflects the mythological transforming beasts that lived in the lochs of Scotland and had the strength of ten horses. Scottish folklore suggests that Kelpies would appear as a gray or white horse, that would entice the unsuspecting to ride on their back, where they would be carried away to a watery grave. Seeing the imposing 98 feet (30 meter) high horses, affection ately named Duke and Baron, coming to life after sunset, felt like a mythologi cal moment that filled my camera’s SD card with wonderful memories.

The Scottish Highlands

As we pressed north, the roads began to narrow, and the urban jungle of cities and towns transitioned to the natural beauty of the sparsely populated, and low-lying mountainous regions of the highlands. This region of Scotland con tinues to be some of the least populated areas of Europe, making it perfect for adventure motorcycle camping and touring. Highlights of the highlands includ ed lunch at the Glencoe Mountain Resort, where we decided to try our luck with eating Haggis for the first time. We chose to ease into the experience by ordering a double cheeseburger with one patty being made from traditional beef, and the other being a mix of sheep heart, liver, and lungs cooked with spices. To our surprise, it wasn’t as bad as we expected – if one adds enough spices, even sheep organs can be edible!

Other highlights included the stunning natural beauty and switchback roads of Bealach na Ba Pass and the narrow winding road of Quiraing Pass on the Isle of Sky. Riding through these regions of the Highlands made it difficult to make much progress, because at nearly every corner I was clamoring to take yet another photograph. The moral of the story - don’t ride with a photographer if you want to travel fast.

Another reason we didn’t travel fast is because there were many days when the weather was just not favorable for motorcycle touring. Expect rain – especially along the western highlands, which is one of the wettest places in Europe, with an annual rainfall of over 120 inches. Seattle, Washington, in comparison, only gets 40 inches a year on average. Pack your rain gear.

Scottish Castles

Do you enjoy the idea of exploring Scottish castles? Is so, you’ll be happy to know that there are over 2,000 castles that were built between the 12th and 19th centuries. We tended to stick to the more popular castles including the picturesque Eilean Donan Castle, and the Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness. Fans of the folklore of the Loch Ness Monster should also visit the nearby Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition, where you can learn more about “Nessie” and come up with your own theory about this controversial creature.

We especially enjoyed the seaside castle ruins of Dunnottar and Findlater Castles. Both offered some of the nicest seaside walking trails we’ve ever enjoyed, where we relished in the relative clear skies and abnormally sunny weather.

The Iconic John O’ Groats Signpost Tourism 101 suggests that if you build a sign marking “the end of the road” or “the furthest geographical point,” then tourists will come. This is especially true when the John O’ Groats signpost was installed in 1964 to mark the tip of mainland UK. In reality, the furthest northern point of Great Britain is actually Dunnet Head, located 15 miles to the west. However, this didn’t keep us from reaching this iconic spot and snapping our own memorable photograph.

It’s no coincidence the John O’ Groats signpost was chosen as the starting point for the motorcycle travel series Long Way Down. Ewan McGregor was born in Scotland, making it an ideal starting place for the series in which Ewan, Charley Boorman, and their production film crew, traveled 15,000 miles from John O’ Groats to Cape Agulhas, the southernmost point of continental Africa. Someday, Chantil and I hope to also make the journey to Cape Agulhas, but it will take us substantially longer than the three months it took Ewan and Charley.

Where to next?

As we snapped our last photograph of the John O’ Groats Signpost, the angry gray clouds overhead began to drop the first of what was forecasted to be a long day of rain. We continued along the eastern coast, and our ultimate destination of reaching the Land’s End Signpost in Cornwall, England. Google Maps says the shortest distance between John O’Groats and Land’s End is 837 miles (1,347 km), but we’re not known for taking the shortest distance. More adventure awaits in part two of Great Britain…

About viajarMOTO

Travis and Chantil Gill have been full-time motorcycle overlanding since early 2020. They tend to take things slow – Enjoying as much of the sites and culture of a country before moving on to the next. You can follow them on their steady journey around this “pale blue dot” at www.viajarMOTO.com

By Tim Notier www.notiersfrontiers.com

As we crossed the ferry from Dawson City into the last remote sections of Canada, the paved road turned to gravel and dirt. The previous three thousand miles from British Columbia all the way up the Yukon had been 99% tarmac, and up until that point, the biggest challenge we had was avoiding the giant, bloodthirsty mosquitoes. We had heard of this vampiric breed of swarming beasts, but no amount of forewarning could prepare us as we lay inside the forcefield that was our tent. They buzzed just outside the netting as if they were predator drones on a seek and destroy mission. All we could do was sit in horror as we watched them clean their tiny needle mouths with their front legs like criminals sharpening their knives outside a window of some shady back-alley bar.

In an effort to avoid the foul insects, our riding days were extended to around nine hours as the sun didn’t set until 11pm. We made a new plan to ride all day until either of us got hungry, then quickly cook diner before climbing into the tent to sleep. No amount of mosquito coils or repellent could prevent the onslaught and epic battles that were had every time we pulled over for a short break or to snap a picture of our surroundings. But those photo shoots were worth it, as the landscape was breathtaking.

Marisa and I, along with our KTM 1190 Adventure R, came to a rolling stop at the US and Canadian border in the isolated town of Poker Creek. The trio of man, woman, and machine that was our small posse temporarily doubled the town’s population of 3, which I could only assume was the American border official, the Canadian watchman, and a dog that kept them both company on the long days that never seemed to end.

Once welcomed into Alaska, the land seemed to open up from a single line that cut through a channel of trees, into vast views as we ascended the Top of the World Highway. There is something to be said about being able to view landscapes of rolling hills and mead ows compared to a seemingly three-thousand-mile-long tunnel of forest. The road was lined with purple fireweed that lit up the sides of our path as if it was an airport runway, while shorter sprouts of pink-hued Foxtail Barley wafted in the wind like the hair of small troll dolls from the 90’s.

The gravel sometimes turned back into remnants of concrete from what was once a paved road, but now had more patches on it than a leather jacket of a member of Hell’s Angels. Marisa and I were both physically and mentally on top of the world. The two of us were so close to completing the line between the southernmost point of the Americas in Ushuaia, with the northernmost point in Prudhoe Bay. It was an achievement that we had not originally set off to accomplish, but one that now seemed to synchronize with our traveling lifestyle.

The swatting of mosquitoes and long days on the road had now harmoniously merged with grand views of looming mountains and foliage. An overwhelming sense of wonder washed over me as we parked at the apex of one of those tall hills with a view unmatched by any other.

In years past, parts of the forest had been burnt, leaving behind orange and red patches of half-scorched trees across open fields. The aftermath of the damage caused by the fire crafted a different form of natural splendor. Colorful flowers bloomed on either side of the dirt highway, and streaks of burgundy burnt trees crossed the faces of the foothills. Our surroundings seemed to intertwine the blemishes of the countryside with the blotches of new life in order to create something immaculate.

It was as if we were stopped at a left turn while waiting for a green arrow, and the turn signal of my bike briefly matched the timing of the blinker of the car in front of us. I don’t know why I always felt delighted when that happened, but I knew that it wouldn’t last long.

It was a short-lived moment where everything seemed to fit together in time before returning to the different metrical beats of life.

After a full day of riding on the spine of the world, we camped just outside of Chicken, and carried on through the small settlements that dotted this remote section of Alaska. I smiled as we rode through the town of North Pole where a giant statue of Santa Claus waved to us while holding his naughty and nice list. Once in Fairbanks, we glanced at the weather forecast on our phone, and it projected a window of two clear days out of the four that it would take us to ride all the way to Deadhorse and back. So we jumped in the saddle and took off towards the Dalton Highway.

I had heard how difficult the road could be, and had been warned multiple times to take it nice and slow. But what the bike’s tires bit into was hard compacted gravel. Marisa and I were lucky to have avoided the split pea soup of a road when wet, and we confidently zipped down the highway.

The road to nowhere led us to the Arctic Circle, and we hopped off for a photo op next to the sign and to celebrate another achievement. It wasn’t quite as cold as I had originally assumed the arctic to be, but I wasn’t about to complain about the 66-degree Fahrenheit day at a latitude of 66.30 degrees.

Our newest chaperon that traveled alongside with us for the next 400 miles was the Alaskan pipeline as it twisted through the scenery like the long tail of a dragon. It is an engineering marvel to say the least, but it was somewhat ironic as I looked down to find out that I was completely out of gas after 234 miles of continuous riding over four and a half hours. Luckily, I had my spare gallon of gas in a RotopaX, and we were only thirty miles to the nearest town of Coldfoot. It is always good to know the limits of your mileage, but it felt satirical right next to the pipeline, not that my KTM could run off of crude oil.

Marisa and I stayed the night in Wiseman before making the final plunge to Deadhorse. The surrounding hills began to turn into rocky crags, and then erupted into the Brooks Mountain Range where the tree line promptly ended. The dirt road stood hand-in-hand with the pipeline as they skipped off together into the landscape of green fields, turquoise water, and grey mountains, all underneath a pristinely blue sky.

As we casually rode through one of the most secluded and least-disturbed wildernesses in North America, we saw something straight out of Star Wars. A lone muskox with large swirling horns nonchalantly chewed on the short grasses of the tundra. I tried to get a few yards closer for a glamor shot with the beast, but as soon as I stepped onto what I assumed to be solid ground, I realized that the tundra was basically a thin layer of thawed soil that bounced underneath my feet as if I was walking on a waterbed. It was a strange feeling, one that almost left me seasick as I bobbed my way through the field in an effort to take a few pictures.

I kept a safe distance from the muskox, as the last thing I wanted was to be charged by a giant buffalo/goat hybrid, forc ing me to flee over a surface that tried to swallow me whole. But I managed to get a few photos before retreating back to the bike, where Marisa looked doubtful of me surviving the encounter. After appreciating the muskox, we continued down the road and came across a real-life reindeer that wore a crown of angelic antlers. In comparison to the muskox who seemed to move more like an animatronic puppet, the caribou gracefully crossed the road in long sweeping steps as we came to a stop.

We hadn’t seen wildlife in seemingly forever, and now all of the creatures were roaming around freely in the wide-open tundra. Marisa and I couldn’t have been more thankful for the blue sky, dry roads, and abundance of flora and fauna that engulfed us.

Deadhorse was just a few miles further up the road, and I twisted the throttle in anticipation of reaching the legendary sign that claimed victory to those who have traveled so far to get there. The town itself was nothing to write home about, as it was just an industrial zone built in the middle of nowhere, but we pulled up to the glorious sign that was completely covered with stickers and added our own badge of honor to the montage.

The ride up the Dalton had exceeded our expectations. The mountains, wildlife, and tundra filled each day with a new sense of wonder. We never could have imagined that following a pipeline that led to an oil field would be filled with so much natural splendor. But with hotel prices being so expensive, we appreciated our accomplishment for a single night before making the two-day trip back south.

The weather forecast didn’t look as welcoming as it had on the way north. I knew that the combination of torrential rain and tires of large tanker trucks could effectively pulverize the road into a muddy stew, but we had to earn our sticker’s place on the Deadhorse sign. And after the slow and peaceful tic, tic, tic of climbing up the rollercoaster to Prudhoe Bay, it was time to descend back down in a mad rush of exhilaration and adrenaline as we plummeted towards Fairbanks. Stay tuned for Part 2 of our Alaskan adventure in an upcoming issue.