Upshift Issue 79 - March 2023

GO FASTER FOR LONGER

Class-leading power and a massive electronic package mean the world just got a whole lot smaller. On pristine new asphalt or a broken-up old track, the KTM 1290 SUPER ADVENTURE S is ready to rip through it all. #DARE2ADV

FIND OUT MORE AT KTM.COM/TRAVEL

GET

Versatility to the max to ensure every ride is an enjoyable one! Explore remote trails, enjoy mixed-surface adventures, or simply add a little more fun to your daily commute, the GASGAS ES 700 is a playful, do-it-all dual-sport performer. Mixing high-quality, street-legal performance with proven offroad capabilities, the ES 700 proudly brings the playful and vibrant GASGAS attitude to the street. And with its 13.5 liter fuel tank, comfortable riding position, high-spec equipment, and proven single-cylinder motor, there’s nowhere the ES 700 won’t go. How far you take it is up to you!

#GetOnTheGas

www.gasgas.com @gasgasusa @GASGAS.NorthAmerica

INSTA-ADV

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

MORE TORQUE MORE FUN

» Domino Grips » Michelin X-Light Tires

» New Optimzed Radiator Grill

» Map Switch with Two Different Ignition Settings for Rain or Shine

» Five Speed Transmission

Moto Trials

4-Stroke - 300

RESTORE YOUR FACTORY FINISH

MOTO SHINE MS1

THERE’S A NEW SCENT IN THE AIR

• Perfect, high-gloss shine

• Safe on all surface finishes

• Anti-static, dust repelling sheen

• Easy cleanup, mud releasing, protective film

• Fresh, scented formulation

YOUR FINISH

Follow us:

ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE

For years we have been told that artificial intelligence (AI) is the future, and it doesn’t take a genius to see that those predictions have become a reality. Automated technology and “smart” devices can be found in numerous businesses and homes worldwide. Still, these technological advances haven’t created the same buzz that conversational/creative AI has over the last couple of months. Although automated machines have long threatened industrial jobs like vehicle or food production, new artificial bits of intelligence like Dall-E, Chat GPT, or Bing seem to raise more questions and, in some cases, ethical concerns.

Despite enduring decades of sci-fi books and films about malicious AI, those who are alarmed by these modern advancements have valid reasons for wanting to draw the line here. Automated machines and smart home devices don’t infringe on the moral framework of society like AI chat bots, and art generators seem to do. I’d argue that the difference between these technologies and the AI we are hearing about in the news is clarified when we ask questions about authenticity and inspiration. Unlike mechanized assembly lines, or the voice assistant on your phone (which merely works with existing materials or information), the latest AI has the ability (with prompting) to create art, write scripts, tell stories, and more; actions that are often thought to originate from ideas.

So what does this have to do with motorcycle riding? Well, we are in the business of ideas. We are in the business of story-telling, designing, creativity, and inspiration. While we don’t feel like AI threatens our job, we think it’s essential for our readers to know that Upshift will always share the stories of real people on real adventures. We are not going to say this entire Insider was written by AI, as a trick to prove how competent the tech is. We value our readers and community too much to give you anything uninspired or inauthentic. AI saturated world or not, our mission remains the same, to make content and products inspired by and for real adventurers.

Photo: Tim Burke

INTELLIGENCE

Motopumps - Garmin Zumo XT Security Lock

Peace of mind for your expensive GPS! The Garmin Zumo XT is a great GPS. Worlds ahead of the previous generation Zumo models. However, earlier Zumos had a security or anti-tamper screw that made it harder for someone to snatch your GPS when left on the bike during a stop. Garmin did not bother with such feature on the Zumo XT.

The MotoPumps® Security Lock installs between the Garmin Zumo powered cradle and your chosen GPS mount that attaches to your motorcycle. The lock is thin enough that it allows you to re-use the stock mounting hardware included with your GPS mount. The security pin locks the GPS in place on the powered cradle that came with your Zumo XT and prevents the release plunger from being depressed. Installation takes a matter of minutes on any GPS mount compatible with the Garmin Zumo XT.

The Garmin Zumo XT Security Lock by MotoPumps® includes the security lock, security pin and two security keys. Extra pins and keys are available separately. Available in the Upshift Store Here.

Alpinestars AMT-10R Drystar®

The multi-season AMT-10R DrystarXF Jacket has been engineered to deliver optimal protection, weather performance and comfort in extreme adventure riding conditions. A new approach in advanced riding all-weather protective apparel, this jacket utilizes a modular construction and the most advanced materials technologies avail able at Alpinestars, and is equipped with Alpinestars new laminat ed 2.5L DrystarXF waterproof and highly breathable membrane for effective all-weather performance and superior comfort in any weather conditions, wet or dry. The AMT-10R DrystarXF Jacket is Tech-Air ® ready and can accommodate the Tech-Air www.alpinestars.com MSRP:$899.95

• In fully waterproof configuration the AMT-10 jacket features direct ventilation on the chest that riders can easily modify for extra venti lation via the versatile ventilation openings on the chest.

• The mid torso zips for moderate ventilation can also be opened for additional airflow.

• In warm weather conditions the jacket can be conveniently con verted to a mesh jacket by completely removing the laminated DrystarXF ® rain panel, which can be conveniently stored in the large stretch mesh pocket on the back when not in use. The fully converted airflow jacket maintains all of the protective perfor mance, thanks to the lightweight MATRYX exceptional abrasion resistance, tear strength and breathability.

NEW PRODUCTS

AVAILABLE APRIL 2023

Knipex - Cobra Pliers

KNIPEX is well known for producing some of the highest quality most versatile tools in the world. The Cobra Pliers are a go to for us. The strength of a pipe wrench but more compact and functional for lots of jobs. Able to apply crazy amounts of holding force on material like bent tabs or an axle. The small sizes are amazing for backcountry tool kits, and the larger sizes will find a home in your shop or perhaps the truck or van. Once you start using these, you will never go back. Available in the Upshift Store Here.

Features:

• Adjustment at the touch of a button directly on the workpiece

• Fine adjustment for optimum adaptation to different size workpieces and a comfortable gripping position

• Self-locking on pipes and nuts: no slipping off the workpiece and low hand force require

• Gripping surfaces with special hardened teeth, teeth hardness is approx. 61 HRC: low wear and reliable gripping

• Box-joint design: high stability because of double guide

• Reliable catching of the hinge bolt: no unintentional shifting

MSC Moto Apex Anti Vibration Bar Mount System

Custom designed for KTM, Husqvarna, GasGas, Beta, Sherco, and Husaberg motorcycles. The APEX bar mount system is perfect for reducing handlebar vibrations and damping out harsh impacts while riding.

The Apex features eight vacuum cast polyurethane design dampers positioned concentrically with the four handlebar clamp bolts, providing fully damped points on both the upper and lower contact points. Similar systems use only single-sided dampers, which do not provide full vibration damping.

The APEX Bar Mounts vastly reduce the amount of vibration received through the engine and chassis. Offering superior reliability over natural rubber while keeping effective damping characteristics and eliminating twisting in the event of an accident. Available in the Upshift Store Here.

General Fitment

• KTM - All XC and XC-W models with rigid bar clamp mounting 2000 - 2022

• KTM - All EXC models with rigid bar clamp mounting 2000 - 2022

• KTM - All SX models with rigid bar clamp mounting 2000 - 2015

• KTM - Adventure models (390, 790, 890, 1090, 1190, 1290)

• KTM - 690 Enduro 2008 - 2018

• KTM - Super Duke Road models (990, 1290R, GT)

• Husqvarna - Enduro models 2014 - 2022

• Husqvarna - MX models 2014 - 2015

• Sherco - Some factory models w/ Xtrig clamps may not fit

• GASGAS - All latest generation models made by KTM

• Beta - All models using M10 mounting bolts

model shown.

PHOTO: MICHNUS OLIVIER ARGENTINA

THE NEW WORLD CONQUEROR

WORLD-CLASS DURABILITY AND FUNCTIONALITY / KEEPS YOU DRY AND COMFORTABLE IN GLOBALLY DIVERSE CLIMATES / CUSTOM-BUILT KLIM/D3O® AERO PRO ARMOR / WORLD’S FIRST CE AAA-RATED ALL-WEATHER GEAR

BADLANDS PRO A3 JACKET & PANT / KRIOS PRO HELMET

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PHOTO: MICHNUS OLIVIER

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

PHOTO: MICHNUS OLIVIER ARGENTINA

CHOOSE TO HAVE IT ALL

Fully-loaded with technology, the new 7.9 gallon tank, shaft-driven Tiger 1200 GT Explorer brings unprecedented practicality, comfort and capability to the road-focused adventure motorcycle category. Powered by a new 1200 triple engine, the unique T-Plane design blends the low-speed capability of a twin with the top-end performance of a triple, to set a new benchmark for character. Add to that an all-new chassis that’s significantly lighter and more agile, plus a feature-packed, high specification of equipment throughout, including semi-active suspension and the new Triumph Blind Spot Radar system, for the ultimate in transcontinental capability, comfort and style.

The all-new Tiger 1200 GT Explorer. It’s time to reset your adventure expectations. From $23,595 MSRP. Find out more at triumphmotorcycles.com

PHOTO: TODD WILLIAMS/KLIM

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

PHOTO: ANATOLY CHERNYAVSKIY

PHOTO: MICHNUS OLIVIER

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

Available Spring 2023

THE WORLD JUST GOTALOT SMALLER WITHTHE POWERFUL PERFORMANCE,ADVANCEDELECTRONICS,ANDANY-ROAD CAPABILITIES OFTHEALL-NEW2023V-STROM 800DE.

Shift your adventure into a higher gear. Developed from a clean sheet of fresh ideas, the new Suzuki V-STROM 800DE features an advanced new parallel-twin 776cc powerplant complemented by dynamic rider aids, long-travel suspension, and spoke-style wheels. So, when you’re idling at the crossroads of on- or off-road adventure, the V-STROM 800DE is there to advance whatever direction you choose.

Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2022 Suzuki Motor USA, LLC

FIRST RIDE: KTM 300 XC

KTM’s 300 XC is all new for 2023 – and premix is back in style with the orange army. The headline feature of this all-new XC platform is the switch to Throttle Body Injection (TBI). KTM is still offering Transfer Port Injection (TPI) where oil and fuel are separate tanks on their XC-Ws, but all of the new XC’s inject pre-mixed gas through the bike’s throttle body into a new motor that absolutely rips. Featuring an electronic power valve, a map switch that makes a significant difference, and a chassis that is chock-full of innovation and improvements, the 2023 300 XC is quite the bike.

By CHAD DE ALVA

KTM nerds will go nuts the first time they see a 2023 XC in person. It’s entertaining to step back and watch as folks who are familiar with XCs start to scrutinize the bike, just to see what things they key in on. While the list of changes and revisions is quite extensive, in no particular order, here are a few of my favorite parts: Brembo stoppers and clutch. A new skid plate design and mounting system. A new seat that is much more comfortable. New grab handles and hand flags. A high clearance pipe. Ample radiator hose clearance. Hand adjusters for the shock. Beefier tabs for the chain keeper on the swing arm. Oh, and there’s that motor.

The 300 XC’s motor is, in a word, brilliant. Many riders have described these new motors as feeling like a perfectly jetted carbureted bike. Thanks to TBI, riders will get that perfectly jetted performance every single ride, which is something that doesn’t happen with a carburetor. After reading that statement, I’m sure that the old guard carbureted club is getting ready to embark on some diatribe about how nothing can be as good as carburetion, but let’s review some facts. Electronic fuel injection, an electronic power valve, and more sophisticated engine management all add up to a bike that runs better everywhere, makes more power everywhere, and it does this every single ride. The bike is able to compensate for changes in elevation, air temperature, and humidity as the bike is ridden. Compensating for these variables with a carb requires making jetting changes, which is something most riders aren’t stopping to do mid ride. Not only does TBI make for a perfectly running motor every ride, but it also enables completely changing the engine character with the press of a button.

The map switch on the 2023 300 XC completely transforms the bike’s power delivery. In white mode, the bike is mellow and controllable, making it perfect for technical work. Combined with new transmission ratios including a lower first gear, the bike does great playing in the rocks or sticking moves where precise power output is required. When you’re in the mood for maximum warp, the green map will give you all of the power and the perfectly jetted carbureted 300 two stroke experience.

Lug it and clutch it, or let it sing, it’s all good. And when I say all of the power, I’ve spoken to Baja winning super-fast guys who recommend the 250 over the 300, because they say the 300 fully unleashed is almost too much power.

To help manage the 300 XC’s most impressive power output, KTM has completely redone the chassis for the 2023 model year. The name of the game is mass centralization, and KTM has repositioned the rotating mass closer to the bike’s center of gravity. Anti-squat has also been increased, which improves traction so that the rider can put down more of that awesome power. Within minutes of riding the new chassis, you’ll notice that it feels very agile for a 300, and that the rider triangle is dialed. So much so, that all the setup I would ever want to do is fine tune the lever position and bar clocking. In the suspension department, the 300 XC comes with WP XACT air forks and a WP XACT linkage shock. The shock is all new, and the rebound, high speed compression, and low speed compression clickers are now hand adjustable. These tool-free adjusters will hopefully motivate riders to adjust their suspension to match their riding conditions more frequently. I’m certainly stoked to not have to bust out a screwdriver or a 17mm socket to make settings changes. In stock configuration, the suspension on the 300 XC has neutral setup that works for all sorts of riding. It has the ability to hold up to big hits and higher speeds, and it does an okay job in the loose rocky stuff. Valving toward a specific use (i.e. making it more compliant for trail use) will certainly improve performance, but to be clear, the suspension is completely rideable in stock form. You can’t believe every grumpy, rambling video on the internet talking about this bike.

Like any bike though, there are a few things on the 300 XC that are proving to be more of a mixed bag. First up is the kickstand, which is an all new design that’s proven to be quite hard to hook with your boot to lower the kickstand when stopping. It can certainly be done, but I’ve noticed that 2023 XC riders have taken to hopping off their bikes before going for their kickstands. The new footpeg design has also proven to be a love it or hate it part. Riders all seem to love the new position, but their size and tenacious grip less so. Thankfully, a few seconds with a flapper disk on a grinder can take the edge off of just about anything, and riders who absolutely can’t stand the stock pegs have aftermarket options to choose from.

Riders who are eying the new XCs for hard enduro and/or technical single track use with plans to install lights, Nav, and other electronic farkles need to be aware that in stock form, the bike’s stator has a conservative 20 watts of surplus power. That isn’t enough power to run a real cooling fan or much in the way of lights. It’s important to remember that KTM targets the XCs as a lightweight race bike, and things like beefy stators add weight and rob engine power. That being said, there are aftermarket stators out there, and more solutions for XC-W levels of stator power are actively being developed by the aftermarket.

The 2023 KTM 300 XC is an impressive two stroke motorcycle, and KTM deserves props for their continued efforts to innovate and make awesome two strokes in a world that’s governed by increasingly stricter emissions regulations. With the ’23 XCs they’ve absolutely crushed it, and two stroke riders who were turned off by TPI, need to take a TBI bike for a rip as soon as possible. The 300 XC is a shining example of what happens when you apply modern engine management to internal combustion. The way this motor runs is seriously impressive, and it’s even more impressive when you consider that it runs brilliantly at every elevation, every temperature, and every relative humidity; all without the rider doing a damn thing to adjust the motor. 2023 XC owners who are letting their carburetor-loving riding buddies ride an XC for the first time need to reserve an “I told you so,” because the way these bikes run is seriously that good.

The rest of the 2023 300 XC is full of innovations and revisions that a few months into the honeymoon phase of bike ownership are still proving to be welcome changes. The new XC platform is still a do it all two stroke that can be raced one weekend, and trail ridden the next. KTM has delivered a number of improvements to the bike, such as a more comfortable seat that we are not in a hurry to replace, and the new skidplate mounting, high clearance pipe, grab handles and many other changes are great to live with. There are some changes that we are deliberating over, and some questions that need more time spent riding to reach a conclusion on. The new fuel pump location and pickup being one of them. Yet, each time we get to push the 300 XC into the back of a truck or onto a trailer to load up for a ride, we are stoked to get to ride this bike. The 2023 KTM 300 XC has proven that two strokes can run better than the best carbureted two strokes out there, and we’re stoked that we have such awesome two stroke bikes to ride today and that we will get to enjoy for years to come.

KTM 300 XC

KTM 300 XC

SPECIFICATIONS

MORE CAPABILITY, LESS WEIGHT.

LEVERS

The original and the best. These forged 7075-T6 aluminum levers combine a tire spoon on one end and a wrench on the other. 2 or 3 of these with model specific wrenches should be in every tool kit. Levers can be purchased individually or in common sets.

*Weight of the set shown

BEADPRO ™ TIRE BEAD BREAKER & LEVER SET

There is no better way to break a bead and get to work on a tire repair than with the Motion Pro BeadPro levers. At just 9 ounces, this is a very reasonable addition considering what these tools can do for you.

T6 COMBO TIRE

RECKLESS 80L REVOLVER

TOUGH GEAR. HARD TRAVEL.

100% Waterproof Adjustable Leg Angle

RIDE, CAMP, REPEAT.

Ultra-Durable Materials

The Reckless 80L is designed for off-road riding/camping, Backcountry Discovery Route exploration, and international fly-to-ride trips. The 100% waterproof dry bag system expands and contracts for a variety of load sizes and riding conditions. It doesn’t require pannier racks and features adjustable leg angles allowing it to fit enduros and larger ADV bikes, making the v3.0 ‘Revolver’ our most versatile Reckless system yet.

SCAN FOR MORE DETAILS, PRICE, AND PURCHASE

4L Auxillary Pocket

Upper Mustang

After having explored most of the villages and trails in the lower Mustang, it is time to prepare for the last and most exciting part of our trip. The Upper Mustang valley is a part of Nepal where nobody in our group has ever been before, our guides included. At the eve of our ride to this restricted area, everybody feels the thrill of the true adventure.

A forbidden kingdom

In many other countries, going from the lower to the upper part of a valley wouldn’t be a big deal. You would basically just have to keep following the same route. But the reality of Nepal is that the Lo Kingdom is more or less closed to tourists, mostly to prevent any infiltration of smugglers through the close border with China. In this context, traveling in this area requires a great dose of patience, a decent amount of money and some local contacts.

Christophe Noel, in charge of this trip with his tour company farXplorer, and his friend Chris, who both have been traveling in Nepal for a decade, have been meaning to visit this part of the country for years. Yet, due to the low number of permits emitted and also the closure during the heart of the Covid pandemic, they never have been able to ride here yet.

For this trip, Christophe didn’t leave anything up to chance and just went for it. While we were exploring the lower Mustang, he asked Biki, a trusted Nepali guide, to bring all our passports to the administrative center in Kathmandu. There, all the requirements had to be checked: as foreigners, we needed to have a Nepali guide, which was easy to prove since Biki was there; we had to be part of a group of minimum two people, again an easy check since we were a group of 6 riders; then, things got more complicated, as we had to have our tourist visa extended by 10 days, which is the maximum duration of these permits, and to pay a $500 fee per person. While the whole thing was supposed to be doable online, it took Biki 4 days to get it done. No wonder why the relief on Christophe’s face when Biki showed up in the morning was so visible.

Deep water

With the precious sesames in hand, we finally start our journey toward Lo Manthang, the forbidden city at the end of the Upper Mustang. In the chill morning, our Royal Enfield Himalayans roar at the first solicitation of their electric starter. The rising sun warms us quickly, which proves to be a blessing when our trip is confronted by a road block only 20 minutes after departure; a furious river washed out the trail, and crossing this torrent looks challenging to say the least. Yet we have no choice but to go blindly into the furious water. Some riders spin their rear wheel on the hidden rocks underneath the surface and put their not-so-waterproof boots to the test. The only way to go successfully is to stand up, keep a steady pace, and hope for the best. Still, even with a perfect crossing, the water reaches knee high. The Alpinestars adventure boots covered by the Mosko Moto Enduro OTB pants do an amazing job of keeping my feet dry, a fact made even more remarkable by the fact that I’m the only one whose socks are not soaked. The show must go on though, and we keep climbing, on a dirt road that is large, well graded and much more comfortable than anything we rode on so far. It looks like the military is taking good care of its vehicles!

A first stop to a police check point is the opportunity to proudly show our expensive documentation to the officer in charge. We’re quickly cleared to go and keep on exploring. Not wanting to catch a cold, we stop at the first village to dry everybody’s feet and enjoy a hot tea. We kill the time watching a charming lady weaving on a hand-made loom. She’s doing an amazing job and we end up buying beanies at a price so low that we ask her twice to be sure we understood it right.

Sharp peaks

It doesn’t take long after this village to enter the heart of the Upper Mustang and discover what we all have been dreaming of: the imposing peaks of the Himalayas, so close that we could almost touch them. It’s an optical illusion of course, as their menacing silhouettes are miles away but our brain can’t really cope with the scale. From there, we literally stop at every corner, enjoying a constant change of scenery. From one vista point, you admire the dark rocks of a mountain highlighted by some eternal snow. On another corner further up, you have a perfect vantage point and view of the valley below, with layers of blue mountains vanishing in the distance. We ride slowly, not because of the altitude or a lack of power, but because we don’t want to miss anything. A turquoise lake, a curious formation of hoodoos, some canyons hand-dug during the construction of the road, there are so many things to see! As we reach the highest elevation on the road, we find a natural terrasse that has been decorated with prayer flags. It might be the altitude, or the influence of the Nepali culture, but we stop here for a half hour, lost in our thoughts, experiencing some sort of collective meditation.

Lo Manthang

Passing underneath the monumental arch that welcomes the travelers, we ride through the main streets of Lo Manthang to reach our tea house for the night. Once the bikes are aligned in the backyard and our bags dropped in our rooms, we go for a tour of the six hundred year old town. The only walled city in Nepal, Lo Manthang is the capital of the Lo Kingdom. Beside the royal palace, closed to the public, we find monasteries that are six centuries old. Young Buddhist monks speaking perfect English give us a tour. Adamant that we’re not allowed to take pictures, we try to entrench in our memories the warm atmosphere of the red rooms, the colorful paintings, the sparkling shapes of the golden Buddhas, the 30 feet tall wall hangings.

Going back in the maze of narrow streets, we stop to admire the fine pieces of silver jewelry hand made by local artists. We leave room for a woman pushing a few cows, surprisingly not bigger than a pony. The town is quiet, and nobody pays close attention to us. We witness some intimate demonstration of faith, like these people being blessed in the streets, as well as older women chatting and knitting at their front door.

The next morning, the sunrise lights up the surrounding mountains and gives the signal for another part of our exploration: 15 miles from here, troglodyte caves once used by the king to hide and protect his people from invasions, are opened to the public. We cross the desert landscape, riding around boulders the size of a car, before reaching the cliffs. Caves are everywhere, like windows on a skyscraper. The similarity stops here, as there’s no elevator but rather a succession of wooden ladders. The network of tunnels made for the tiny people of Nepal is difficult to navigate with our huge build of westerners, but we’re amazed by the depth and the complexity of these primitive human constructions. Archaeologists have found remains of lost civilizations older than 4,000 years here, and we walk cautiously, as not to disturb some ancient spirits who could still haunt the place.

A trip out of time

Back in town, we return to the small shops one more time, buying stuff we don’t need but that are impossible to find anywhere else. Besides, these small artifacts will be for us the witnesses of a culture so peaceful that we can’t resist. We have a small talk with mechanics working on Chinese bikes, and say Namaste countless times to people of all ages. We feel like we’ve been accepted already. Later, when the time is coming to go back to the valley, the 40 year old woman who owns the tea house asks us to wait; she comes back with a handful of khatas, the soft silk scarves that are offered to travelers to wish them good luck. It’s not without emotion that we start our Royal Enfield Himalayans and head down, passing once again under the city’s portal. In two days, we will be in Kathmandu, and less than 48 hours later, most of us will be back in the USA. But for now, it’s all about enjoying the Upper Mustang while we can, with different views on the downhill. We all feel sad, having to leave this valley that welcomed us so warmly. Yet, we know that we will probably come back, with friends or family, to share the incredible serenity of these sparsely remote areas, out of time and still miraculously preserved from the craziness and the greed of our modern world.

Special thanks to Christophe Noel, the CEO and owner of FarXplorer www.farxplorer.com for the opportunity to join this unique trip to Upper Mustang; Thanks to Suzan, who’s probably the best guide to visit Kathmandu and go off of the beaten paths; Thanks to Biki and the FarXplorer crew members, who fed us and took care of our bikes as well as our tents; Thanks to Donna, Bob, Joey, John and Chris who coped with my need for pictures at any given moment; Last, but not least, thanks to all the anonymous Nepali we met along the way, you guys were awesome!

JOIN US IN NEW MEXICO FOR THE 2023 ANNUAL BDR FUNDRAISER RIDE WEEKEND

•

•

Good Things Come In Small Packages!

The Antigravity MICRO-START lineup offers you power where you need it, when you need it. Jump-start vehicles, and charge all your electronics such as cell phones, laptops, GoPro Cameras and much more. All in a Pocket-Sized device. There are 5 models available and all MICRO-STARTs come in a complete kit with a carry case and all the accessories needed for charging your electronics and jump starting your vehicle wherever you are.

MICRO-START XP-3 - $119

The Antigravity Batteries Micro-Start XP-3 is very compact and very capable. So small it fits in your hand and easily stows in your pack or panniers making it easy to take back-up power anywhere you go. Never worry about coming back to a dead battery, or your devices running low on power.

• 6 x 3 x 1 inches

• Weight - 10.5 oz

• 8,000 mAh capacity

• 200A starting current / 400A peak

• Charge USB devices at once

• Start gas engines up to 5.7 Liter V8

• 200A starting current / 400A peak

• LED Flashlight built-in

• Carry case and accessories included

MICRO-START XP-1 - $149

The Micro-Start XP-1 was one of the first mini lithium jump-starters on the market and is considered the industry standard. Just a little bit larger than the XP-3 with more power for those needing a little bit more.

• 6.75 x 3.25 x 1 inches

• Weight - 15.25 oz

• 12,000 mAh capacity

• 200A starting current / 400A peak

• Charge 19V laptops, 12V devices and USB devices

• Start gas engines up to 6 Liter V8

• LED flashlight built-in

• Carry case and accessories included

BY CHAD DE ALVA

Motion Pro Steering STEM Bearing TOOLS

Steering bearings are one of those parts on a motorcycle that always seem to be ignored until they cause problems. Many riders seem to assume that the factory or the bike’s previous owner greased their steering bearings with some magical grease that lasts forever. But like anything else, steering bearings are susceptible to the effects of time, mileage, and damage caused by water and contaminant ingress. When a bike’s steering bearings need replacing, the best practice is to replace the bearing races as well. Performing this job can be a real pain – getting the bearing races out of your bike’s frame, and pulling and pressing a new lower steering bearing can be a real challenge. Worse yet, the potential for collateral damage to other parts of your bike is quite high if you’re improvising tools. Thankfully, Motion Pro makes a couple of tools that make this job a breeze: the Motion Pro Steering Bearing Installer, and the Motion Pro Steering Stem Bearing Tool.

STEERING BEARING INSTALLER

The Motion Pro Steering Bearing Installer makes installing new bearing races in your bike’s frame as easy as turning a socket wrench. With this tool, getting perfectly installed races takes just a few minutes and there’s almost no risk of damaging something, which is just an errant hammer strike away with other methods.

Like any other Motion Pro tool, the Steering Bearing Installer is a well-made, well thought out tool that makes the job much easier and faster to complete. Included with the tool are drivers for 4142mm, 47-48mm, 51-52mm, and 55-56mm bearing races. Each driver also has a flat on its outside lip, so even if you are working with a wildcat race size, you can still use this tool to drive races into your bike’s frame. The Steering Bearing Installer works on motorcycle and ATV head tubes between 100 and 240mm in length.

Using the Steering Bearing Installer is straightforward. First, determine the appropriate driver for your races. Then, run the center rod through the race and driver, and secure the opposite end with the locking plate. Next, snug up the tapered plate with the thrust washer and hex nut in place. With everything lined up, use a socket wrench to turn the hex nut and press the race into your frame. In just a couple of minutes, you’ll have a perfectly pressed race. It’s that easy.

If you notice that the center rod is spinning in the locking plate while pressing a race, there are two flats machined into the end of the center rod which are perfect for grabbing with a wrench or my personal favorite, Knipex pliers. Please note that Motion Pro has revised the Steering Bearing Installer from the tool that you see in our photos. Specifically, our tool does not have the tapered plate or the wrench flats, but any Steering Bearing Installer purchased from the time of publication will have these features. Motion Pro is known for striving to improve their tools, and this is a great example of how the new version of the steering bearing installer has all of the features I found myself wishing for in the version I have.

Bearing Race pulled with tool

Bearing Race pulled using chisel

STEERING STEM BEARING TOOL

Replacing the lower steering stem bearing can be quite the project. Pulling and pressing the bearing with common tools is a time-consuming process, and the chance of damaging another part, like your steering tube or bottom triple clamp is quite high. Motion Pro’s Steering Stem Bearing Tool makes this process take minutes, and there’s hardly any risk of damaging another part of your bike, no need to invent a press, or play with fire.

The Steering Stem Bearing Tool comes with an almost universal tapered roller bearing puller, and 26, 28, 30-31, and 35-36mm race protectors for driving a new race onto your bike’s steering stem.

To use the puller, simply cut the bearing cage off of the bearing and remove all of the rollers. Next, slide the puller over the steering stem and EVENLY tighten the grub screws to engage the bearing. Now hold the puller with a pair of Knipex pliers and turn the puller bolt with a 19mm socket. With just a few turns of the puller bolt, the lower race will come free. Pressing a new bearing is as easy as sizing the right protector, and driving the bearing on with the tool and a mallet.

To put this ease of use and time savings into perspective, I attempted to remove a lower steering bearing race with a hammer and cold chisel after watching a YouTube video for inspiration. After hammering on the bearing race for some time, I still couldn’t get it to start moving up the steering stem, so out came the torch so I could turn the race cherry red to expand it. Long story short, even with taking the time to be extremely careful, I still managed to chip the race and scratch my lower triple clamp in a few places with my chisel. At least I didn’t burn myself with hot parts, or damage the threads on my steering stem. Completing the job with common tools was measured in hours, and involved lots of hammering and fire. Completing the job with Motion Pro tools took minutes, and no other parts were harmed in the process.

My one complaint about both of these tools is that they’re sorely lacking in the packaging department. Some Motion Pro tools come in blow molded cases, but for whatever reason, these tools come in blister-plastic or just a cardboard box. Given that these tools aren’t used frequently, having a way to protect them in storage or when you’re loaning them out to your riding buddies is key. No one wants to beat up their pretty tools, so here’s hoping Motion pro comes up with more durable packaging or a case in the next revision of these tools.

TESTED: Motion Pro Steering STEM Bearing TOOLS

Replacing steering bearings and races is a textbook example of a specialized service job that can be done in minutes with the right tools, or in hours with lots of brute force and ignorance with common tools. Life is short, and I’d personally much rather spend the money upfront to make this job as painless as possible. That way I can get back to riding sooner, and that’s what it’s all about. If you’ve got steering bearings and races that need replacing, the Motion Pro Steering Bearing Installer, and Steering Stem Bearing Tool are absolutely worth it. They may even earn you free beer in the future if you happen to loan these tools out to your riding buddies, and free beer is never a bad thing.

Both of these tools, and many other outstanding Motion Pro tools are available from the Upshift Store. It doesn’t cost you anything extra, and you’re directly helping to support the next issue. Click Here.

RUBY R4, R5, & R7 now available as plug-n-play headlight replacements for most KTM and Husqvarna bikes.

BY CHAD DE ALVA

TRAIL TECH Portable Air Compressor

Trail Tech’s new Portable Air Compressor (PAC) combines a fan cooled air compressor, a 5000 mAh battery, a light, and USB power bank functionality into a unit that’s roughly the same size as a 16 ounce can of Liquid Death. The compressor runs off of the unit’s internal battery, which means it’s a self-contained system – no power cords or running bikes are required. A portable air compressor is a great tool for motorcycle riders to carry to inflate tires after a repair, or to adjust tire pressures to match the surfaces that they’re riding on. Since the PAC is self-contained, its functionality can also be used off the bike as well.

Hold the power button for a few seconds and you’ll turn the unit on, activating its easy to comprehend display. Information such as state of charge, measured pressure, set pressure, and mode are all displayed for the user. With just a few button presses, you can choose the inflating mode, pressure units displayed, and set a cut off pressure. The unit will inflate whatever it’s connected to until it reaches the set pressure, so you’re free to work on other things. The four compressor modes are: sports ball, bicycle, motorcycle and car. Using the included sports ball needle, the Portable Air Compressor can get your soccer ball to the recommended pressure without the risk of over inflating and damaging the ball. The PAC also comes with a presta adapter, so it’s easy to quickly set the tire pressure on any bicycle that uses presta valves. Pro Tip: before you use the PAC, hold down the plus and minus buttons for a couple of seconds to calibrate the unit for the most accurate pressure readings.

Inflating a motorcycle tire is very straightforward. Toggle the unit to motorcycle mode and set your desired inflation pressure. Screw what the manual calls the “American Style Quick Connect Trachea” into the compressor and connect the other end to your bike’s Schrader valve. Press the power button to turn the compressor on, and you’re off to the races. There is no need to run a power cord to your bike, or to run your bike to keep your bike’s starting battery charged. The cordless convenience will spoil you and it’s so nice not to have to breathe exhaust. Pro Tip 2: Spin the wheel for the tire you are inflating so that the PAC can hang from the valve stem. This protects the PAC from ingesting dirt while it’s running.

The Portable Air Compressor also has a mode for inflating car and truck tires, but that comes with a big disclaimer. This compressor doesn’t push a lot of air (CFM) so don’t expect to air up a high volume or high pressure tire to placard pressure on a single charge. I tried airing up a 35-inch all-terrain truck tire from my sand dune tire pressure of 13 psi to my street pressure of 45 psi with the PAC. The compressor ran for 26 minutes inflating the tire to 34.5 psi before completely exhausting its battery and shutting off. In all fairness, the PAC certainly isn’t the right tool for the job here, so users with big tires or vehicles with high street pressures should carry other inflation options.

Battery life on the Portable Air Compressor is completely dependent on how the compressor is used. For example, my phone has the same battery capacity as the PAC, so I could easily use up most of the PAC’s battery to completely charge my phone. Were I attempting to charge my phone when the PAC was cold, I may not even get a full charge, based purely on the fact that batteries do not perform as well when cold. The USB Type-A output on the PAC is rated for 5V/2A, which works out to 10 watts. If you’re used to charging a modern phone at Power Distribution (PD) speeds, know that charging will take longer with the Portable Air Compressor.

When it comes to battery life for inflating moto tires, the answer is once again that it depends. How much pressure you’re adding, and the internal volume of the tire(s) will have a direct impact on how many inflations you can get on a single charge. For a conservative estimate, I used the PAC in a 70 degree shop to inflate a 150/70-18 tire from 20 to 35 PSI, and was able to do so five times before the battery indicator showed 25% state of charge when the unit was resting (allowing the cell voltage to recover after being loaded by the compressor). A bit of bar napkin volumetric math tells us that a 150/70-18 rear tire has 40% more volume than a 90/90-21 front, so let’s call it a safe three rounds of airing up an adventure bike (front and rear tire) from dirt to street pressure before needing to charge the PAC. Charging is handled via the USB-C port on the PAC, which is also rated to 10W. Charging the battery from solid red (10-25% SOC) takes the better part of two hours. It’s important to note that the PAC cannot be used as a compressor while charging.

TESTED: TRAIL TECH Portable Air Compressor

I would really like to see the next generation of Trail Tech Portable Air Compressor come with a larger battery (at least 10,000 mAh like other options out there) and support for modern USB-PD standards. This would make it a much better power bank, and I’d be willing to bet that a PD input can provide plenty of power to run the compressor. Pro Tip 3: Keep the PAC battery charged. It’s easy to stash the PAC in a tank bag after use and charge it up while riding.

In its current form, the Trail Tech Portable Air Compressor is a solid option for motorcycle use, and the benefits of a self-contained system extend well beyond the world of motorcycles. From having a quick tool to grab to air up your kid’s soccer ball, to having an easy way to top off a spare tire on a trailer or truck if needed, the PAC is a compact compressor solution that is easy to pack with you on all sorts of adventures. Anyone shopping for a PAC should absolutely spring for the optional hard case, which makes the unit much more toss in a bag or shove in moto luggage tolerant, and it’s nice to have a zippered closure ensuring that nothing sneaks out of the case. For more information on the Trail Tech Portable Air Compressor, visit www.trailtech.net

MIGRATING SOUTH FOR THE WINTER

As the chill of the late autumn wind blew through our mesh motorcycle jackets, we felt the urge to migrate south from Great Britain UPSHIFT Issue 76. We pointed our handlebars towards the warmer climate of southern Europe, by booking a twoday ferry from Portsmouth, England to Santander, Spain for ourselves and our two BMW G650GS mules. Chantil and I had hoped to leave the grey drizzly October weather of England and arrive in sunny Spain. In reality, the day we left Portsmouth was unusually sunny and warm, and when the ferry ramp lowered in Santander, the skies were an angry grey with rain pouring down on our dampened spirits. So much for sunny Spain.

Fortunately, the rain was only temporary, and after a few days of hiding out in a hotel room, we enjoyed relatively blue skies – especially as we ventured further south into the dryer climates of the Bardenas Reales.

Destination Planning and Roadside Oddities

People often ask how we plan our travels while being on the road full-time. It all started years ago when we purchased a coffee-table book called Destinations of a Lifetime: 225 of the World’s Most Amazing Places. Chantil and I poured over each of the pages and dreamed of visiting these incredible locations throughout the world. We plotted them onto our Google Map as “Want to go” pins, and over the years these 225 pins grew to over a thousand, as we learned of more exotic and interesting places we wanted to visit.

Once we enter a country, we search travel websites to determine the “must see” places. After all, we wouldn’t want to visit Paris and miss the Eiffel Tower, or Rome’s famous Colosseum. However, we often prefer the less-known locations, where we can enjoy them at our own leisurely pace. One of our favorite go-to sites for finding interesting, and often unusual, places to visit is the website Atlas Obscura. Spain currently has more than 580 locations listed on their website! With so many interesting places to see, it’s no wonder that we tend to travel so slowly – sometimes spending months in a single country.

One of these Atlas Obscura locations was a place called Parque De Los Desvelados (Park of the Sleepless) located near the town of Estella. This obscure and weathered park was the 30-year creation of Spanish artist Luis García Vidal. The skulls and crushed cars are a eulogy to life and how fragile it can be – a grief that was painfully felt by Vidal when he lost his brother to an automobile accident in 1991. Like human frailties, the sculptures are also fragile since they are only made from wooden branches, wire mesh, plaster and paint. You could see where some of the skulls were destroyed by people wanting to stand on them for a picture. We felt it was best to enjoy the sculptures as you would in a museum – not touching them and quietly reflecting on our own thoughts. We left Parque De Los Desvelados with a reinvigorating feeling that life is a gift that should be cherished and enjoyed.

The Ghosts of Esćo

Another Atlas Obscura find was the 12th century town of Esćo. This farming town was abandoned due to the inadvertent flooding of farmland created by the Yesa Dam in 1959. Sixty years later, what used to be a flourishing farming village, was now slowly withering away. Broken rafters, fallen stone walls, and decades of decay filled the cobblestone streets. Centuries of family memories, destroyed by a single act of careless civil engineering.

We arrived late enough in the day, that we didn’t have time to explore the ruins and nearby church, so we decided to set up camp at the base of the town. After a relaxing dinner and a stupendous sunset, we enjoyed the incredible view of the night sky – uninhibited by any nearby light pollution. It felt like a picture perfect evening of motorcycle camping.

Around midnight, we were awoken to the sounds of howling, followed by sudden gale force winds that were so violent that they flapped the tent fabric, and pulled the support stakes from the ground. We reinforced the stakes by placing large rocks on top of them and went back to bed. Three hours later, we were once again awoken – but now the howling intensified. The winds were so fierce that we didn’t think our tent would make it through the night. Just as we were getting out of our sleeping bags, we heard what sounded like a freight train rolling into us! The violent wind blasted the tent with so much force that it flattened and snapped one of the aluminum support poles in half! All of the items that were in the tent’s vestibule were blown downwind into the ruins of a rocky wall!

Almost as quickly as the wind arrived, it dissipated. We spent the next hour trying to collect all of our possessions, and huddled against the ruins of a stone wall, waiting for the light of morning to determine the extent of damage. The center of the tent was ripped where the pole had broken and was shoved through the fabric. There was also a large five-foot rip at the base of the tent. Definitely not a picture perfect night of camping. We imagined that the anger of the families that were displaced in 1959, still haunt the town of Esćo. It sure haunted us that night!

When morning arrived, we packed our gear, and broken tent, and rode to a nearby city where we found a camping store, and purchased a splint for the broken pole and some tent repair tape. It took the whole roll, but with some patience, and some hand-stitching, we restored the tent, and were able to continue using it during the next leg of our travels to the desert region of Bardenas Reales.

Main image by Upshift Online

Riding the Trans Euro Trail

Spain has one of the most extensive sections of the Trans Euro Trail (TET) within its borders. The 7,500 km (4,660 mile) length is impressive – especially considering that the Trans America Trail is “only” 6,840 km (4,250 miles) long. One could easily ride offroad for weeks through the varied terrain of Spain. During the previous year, we had ridden sections of the TET UPSHIFT Issue 51, but this time we focused on the 200 km (124 mile) section that winds through the badlands of Bardenas Reales.

We love riding in the desert! The wide expanse of open land, ripe for exploring, feels invigorating and free, and Bardenas Reales was just what we hoped it would be. This 42,500-acre UNESCO Reserve is composed of three separate areas: El Plano is the large plateau region in the north and west, Le Negra features sections covered with pine forests and scrub in the south, and La Blanca is the most picturesque with the spectacular formations of Castildetierra and Pisquerra. The moderate November temperatures, multitude of dirt roads to explore, and the ample wild camping opportunities, made it feel like we were in adventure motorcycle heaven. Life was good! At least it was until my mule’s radiator sprung a leak.

Leaking Coolant in the Desert

I was high in the rev range, climbing a rocky hill in first gear, when I suddenly felt the splash of liquid and the distinctive odor of engine coolant burning on a hot exhaust header. I pulled off the trail to diagnose the problem. There was clearly a decent amount of green coolant leaking from the radiator cooling tubes. We were about 8 miles from the nearest roadway, and 75 miles from the nearest BMW dealer. What to do?

We removed the plastic access panels and topped off the coolant reservoir with water we carry in our RotopaX canisters. With the comfortable temperatures of the late afternoon, perhaps we could make it to the roadway before the coolant temperature got hot enough to where the thermostat would direct cooling water into the radiator. Sure enough it worked! I shifted into a higher gear, to keep the engine revolutions below 2000 RPM, and rode all the way to the BMW dealership in Soria – albeit at only 30 MPH.

The next morning, we showed up at Talleres Sebas BMW Motorrad with the hopes that they could get us a new radiator. After talking with the parts manager, we quickly discovered that one could be overnighted from Madrid the next morning. Perfect! In addition, the owner agreed that we could use their shop and motorcycle lift to do all the maintenance ourselves! After a full day of replacing the radiator and coolant, and servicing both of our mules, they were ready for exploring more of northwestern Spain. Another highlight of our visit to Talleres Sebas BMW Motorrad was seeing their beautifully restored BMW R51/3. This model was produced from 1951-1955 and had a 494cc four-stroke flat-twin. BMW built this particular engine so well that it remained relatively unchanged until 1969. With only 170 km on the odometer, the R51/3 on display at Talleres Sebas, was truly a museum piece worthy of praise.

More of the Iberian Peninsula Ahead

With each passing day, we could feel the cooler temperatures closing in upon us, pushing us further south along our snowbird migration route. We crossed the border from Spain into Portugal and headed towards the city of Bragança, where the entire 1250 km (775 mile) length of the Portugal Adventure Country Track lay ahead. More adventure awaits...

About viajarMOTO

Travis and Chantil Gill have been living on the road and motorcycle overlanding since early 2020. So far they’ve explored 44 countries in North America, Europe, and north Africa, and hope to someday circumnavigate this “pale blue dot” they call home. Follow their journey at www.viajarMOTO.com.

EVERY UPSHIFT STORE PURCHASE HELPS SUPPORT THE FREE MONTHLY MAGAZINE!

ARGENTINA

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE ARGENTINE COWBOYS, GAUCHOS SALTEÑOS

PHOTOS

RAINBOW COLOURED MOUNTAINS, OFFROAD PARADISE AND OCHRE DESERTS WHERE LLAMAS ROAM

What would have been a quick loop into a desert area at the foot of the Andes Mountain range, visiting dusty desert towns, seeing some snow-capped volcanoes, salt flats and other worldly coloured landscapes, turned into a month-long exploration and search for the authentic Argentine gauchos.

It was a bitterly cold day as we crossed over from Chile into Argentina at a border crossing called Pasa Jama on 4200m (13800ft). Howling winds blew the snot out of our noses pushing our bikes all over the road.

Our first night was spent in a small roadside hotel where the owner asked us the usual questions: where are we from, where are we going and such, except this time, the owner was a prolific talker with an abundance of valuable information flowing faster than we could keep up trying to remember. The burly man made himself comfortable at our table in the resto-bar, his English proficient enough that we could have a decent conversation. Unfortunately, our Spanish is still limited to asking for beer, and more beer, please.

“Do you know the Gaucho celebration festival will be in Salta next month?” he asked.

He continued to explain, the gaucho is a legendary folklore figure who looks like he has ridden his horse straight out of a western cowboy movie and into real life. These nomadic Argentine cowboys traditionally used to look after herds of cattle which roamed the country’s haciendas (farms). They wear distinctive red ponchos, leather boots and embroidered tights and the horses have these cow hide flares for leg protection against the cold. Every year around June the 17th, the city of Salta dresses up to pay tribute to its most illustrious citizens. The festival is a weekend of parades and BBQ parties.

These are the gauchos of Güemes and they celebrate the memory of their beloved commander, Martín Miguel de Güemes. He was a true hero of Argentina, born February 8, 1785. He fought for their national independence and is a big part of the fact that the Argentine national flag flies today.

:: NORTHWEST ARGENTINA ::

Nevertheless, the man continued with a smile on his face, “there is not much time for you to hit all the dirt roads and towns and then some of the most scenic landscapes in all South America.” He circled more places on our map for us that he considered must-sees.

The generosity of locals has in the past lead us to see unforgettable places we would not otherwise ever discover. Google will only help so much, but when you want to see places not many tourists ever venture to, then speak to locals.

His scribbles on the map looked like a case of measles with all the dots we had to try and visit. Strangely, when we did some research and checked the feeds on social media, we did not get the idea that travelers were spending much time in this area, hence, the reason we initially timed about a week or two for the area. Now it dawned on us, either people are chasing down or up hitting Ruta 40 to say been-there-donethat or there is really nothing special to see. In any case, we decided to route a basic plan and if there was more to experience we would add to that route. We chucked back a few more beers with our new friend, before heading to our room.

Part of the route plan was to explore portions of Ruta 40 and the quaint villages along the route. Especially towns like Cafayte which is bang in the wine region. The legendary Ruta 40 or National Route 40 is the longest in Argentina and one of the world’s greatest riding adventures. It covers the length of the country from north to south, parallel to the Andes mountains, from La Quiaca, on the Bolivian border, to Cabo Vírgenes, in Santa Cruz province, the southernmost point in the continental territory of Argentina. The route covers more than 5200Km (3231ml) crossing 11 provinces, 20 Reserves and National Parks, 13 big lakes and salt mines, 126 bridges and 26 mountain passes, reaching a maximum altitude of 5000mt(17000ft) above sea level. But, not the entire route is that exciting and we skipped parts to go ride through the mountains instead on old dirt roads.

We stuck to dirt roads as much as possible in this sparsely populated region. It is for sure a dirt road, off-road utopia. Most roads are in good condition, hard packed but as always with interesting bits of sand, washboard, rocks, sandy middle ridges, and fast sweepers to keep eyes focused and the fun level close to a 10. Throw in the mountain passes and some serious advenduro back country single tracks and you have the makings of a life changing memorable trip.

:: NORTHWEST ARGENTINA ::

You are on your own, make a mistake and there is no quick salvage. Which makes the riding so much more prickling.

On our way out the next day our route took us straight through the biggest Salt Lake aka Salinas Grandes in Argentina. This incredible expanse of salt is only 180m (590ft) above sea level and the 3rd largest in the world. We made a quick stop, and when we were told we were not allowed to ride alone on the Salt Lake, we decided to hit the road to Seclantes as it was still quite a distance.

Seclantes, a small village nestled next to Ruta 40 about a 160km south of Salta, is where we had a date with a South African and German couple who started an overland oasis for travellers. Johan and Martina, both seasoned motorcycle overlanders loved the area and Argentina so much they bought an undeveloped small farm outside of Seclantes. With the help of “work-away” travellers they constructed a beautiful small colorful hut with an open kitchen to the side, all unplugged and off the grid. On an open field with a small vineyard you find space to pitch tents.

It is the perfect place to source more information on what to see and where to go. In addition to kicking off the riding boots for a few days we enjoyed their incredible hospitality. They are famous for the best clay oven pizzas in all of South America. In the evenings we would stay up late watching the Milky way drift above while discussing route options and sucking on local beers.

To get the best of the area we headed straight back north near the Bolivian border and Abra del Acay, the highest point in Argentina’s Ruta 40 at 4972m (16000ft). It is a dirt road and a load of fun to ride. In wet season it can turn into a monster and nearly unrideable. In winter it is just bloody bitter cold. Mostly at altitude and being a desert area there is not much except cacti and short grass, but the multicolored rolling hills and mountains makes for spectacular scenic views.

On our return loop we headed towards Iruya, another small village of a thousand people. The picturesque town is situated along the Iruya River nestled within a dramatic mountainous Altiplano landscape. It is a place where Condors roam, and as you descend into town a feeling of riding into a world where time stopped. The town’s church, Iglesia Nuestra Senora del Rosario y San Roque, was built in 1690. It is smack bang in a canyon and there is only one dirt road in and out. When it rains no one goes in or out.

The dirt road includes switchbacks and hairpin turns with dangerous drop-offs. In many places the road is bordered by cliffs of hundreds of meters (many hundreds of feet), crossing several rivers and tops out at Abra Del Cóndor, a high mountain pass at an elevation of 3942m (12,933ft). The road then suddenly descends into town, riding into the riverbed and up another canyon to the village of San Isidiro.

Exploring the area feels like being a kid on an Easter egg hunt. Riding the best engaging dirt roads just to find a new eye-popping unfathomable beautiful place.

It is not just the rocks-capes, rainbow coloured and flaming red mountains, the ochre deserts where llamas roam, the charcoal-grey lava flows, the break of dawn, the sunsets, the pureness of the air, the enormous silences, the sooty-black volcanic cones, the quaint towns with their colorful plazas and pristine lime-washed colonial chapels set against striped mountainsides. Most importantly also it is the friendliness and warmheartedness of its people.

Johan has sent us a message to confirm the Gaucho festival is a go, we better book a place in Salta and get there soon. On our way to Salta we stopped at the Cerro Hornocal, the 14-coloured mountains which is a spectacle of pastel colors painted on a mountain range. This is even more impressive than the rainbow mountains in Peru.

We rode into Salta on the Friday with Gauchos in tow just in time for the festival. Friday evening huge bonfires sent smoke signals, it was a hoedown, a tertulia of mass proportions. Gauchos in their traditional clothes gathered around fires with their horses to start the guarding of the monument for the night. Women dressed up with wide brim hats finishing off the tradition.

On Saturday the official parade started around 3pm. Thousands of participants, colorfully dressed, marched through the streets with nearly 2000 gauchos on horseback to follow. They love their horses, the tradition and the socialness of it all.

Strikingly, there was not much police control, or authorities hampering the happiness of people. Yes, it is controlled chaos, but I could shoot photos without hindrance, people could do what they please. That freedom was felt throughout the northern part of Argentina. It is a place where authenticity, the feeling of freedom and living off the land, is held close to the heart. I can probably write a book just on this region alone.

For a few days after we stayed in the Cafayate, where probably some of the very best wine in Argentina, if not the world, is produced by small bodegas. The desert lifestyle lends a certain laid-back charm to Cafayate with its family-owned stores and bustling restaurants around the plaza.

Very few places we have traveled gripped us by the heart as did this region.

TAP THE MAP FOR YOUR NEXT OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE

Explore thousands of miles of interactive trails for 4x4, SxS, ATV, and dirt bikes across the nation. Color-coded trails let you see which are open with just a glance. Tap on any trail to access details like difficulty rating, clearance level, duration, open and close dates, trail photos, and more. Your paper maps can’t do that.

Download the app: onxoffroad.com

WE’RE EXPERTS IN THE BUSINESS BECAUSE WE RIDE TOO!

WE’RE EXPERTS IN THE BUSINESS BECAUSE WE RIDE TOO!