Upshift Issue 81 - May 2023

MAKE LIFE A DARING ADVENTURE

Routines are only boring if you allow them to be. Equipped with spoked wheels, the new KTM 390 ADVENTURE is ready for more challenging terrain. Now you can sneak in a little offroad action and inject some adrenaline into your daily commute. #DARETOADV FIND OUT MORE AT KTM.COM

CHOOSE TO HAVE IT ALL

With world-beating capability and all-road comfort, the new 7.9 gallon tank, shaft-driven Tiger 1200 Rally Explorer is the ultimate large capacity adventure motorcycle.

Powered by a new 1200 triple engine, the unique T-Plane design blends the low-speed capability of a twin with the top-end performance of a triple, for impeccable off road control and effortless touring capability. Add to that an all-new chassis that’s significantly lighter and more agile, plus a feature-packed, high specification of equipment throughout, including long-travel, semi-active suspension and the new Triumph Blind Spot Radar system, for outstanding all-road capability in comfort and style. The all-new Tiger 1200 Rally Explorer. It’s time to reset your adventure expectations. From $24,695 MSRP. Find out more at triumphmotorcycles.com

INSTA-ADV

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

Turn journeys into expeditions.

reach far-off, epic landscapes and discover diverse cultures. supported by 240 mm of high-end wp xplor suspension, the new norden 901 expedition has all the features you need to travel further. all

it takes is a turn of the wheels and whole new worlds are within reach.

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STAY IN YOUR LANE

Everyone loves feeling understood by the brands they buy from. It’s the capitalist ideal…having consumers voting with their money to support brands that they feel represent them or provide for their needs. Recreation industries like ours are an interesting corner of the market because more often than not, brands are started by enthusiasts themselves. In turn, these companies are not blindly trying to cater to the needs of their consumer base, but instead are themselves part of the community, with a unique and intimate knowledge of their patrons. It’s no wonder why we often find companies that just seem to get us, because in many ways, they are just like us!

When companies continue to provide for and build a community of supporters, trust is the inevitable byproduct. As time goes on, and brands ceaselessly prove that they understand their customers, there is a relationship that forms between both parties. However, with trust comes responsibility. Responsibility to uphold the confidence that their consumers have in both brand and product. Unfortunately, that relationship can be abused, even in our world of enthusiasts and devotees.

Whether it stems from greed, an acquisition, or just bad ideas, it doesn’t take long for a company who has earned trust from its community to take advantage of it. As the moto industry continues to consolidate, you can see this take place in an increasingly common form; brands attempting to expand their reach into other industries or simply into products they have no business selling.

Have you been to your local motorcycle dealer lately? You’re likely to find products you never thought you’d see from brands you thought you knew. It’s striking how many companies seem to be stretching their identity in order to give people something they didn’t ask for. In some cases, this violates our trust in these brands because they know that their most loyal customers will buy anything that has their logo on it. In other cases, it’s merely sending a message that the company is trying to grow for growth’s sake, using its resources to develop and sell something that the original consumer base is not interested in.

The motorcycle industry has always been driven by passion rather than necessity, and thus its consumers have near-absolute freedom to pick and choose the brands they support. With that freedom, however, we implore you to keep thinking about who you are doing business with, if they have earned your trust, and if they deserve to keep it.

Upshift Staff

LANE

Trail Tech Voyager Pro GPS Kits Are Back!

The Connected Rider’s GPS, Trail Tech, offers a variety of model specific and universal kits for complete vehicle integration. All kits include mounting hardware, tach sensor, and power connection. Temperature and wheel sensors vary by kit, see kit contents for details. Adventure begins here! Go to www.trailtech.net for more information.

Features:

• Trail Tech Voyager Pro, the Connected Rider’s GPS. A premium off-road GPS with 4-inch color touchscreen anti-glare display, sealed and rated IP67 for anti dust/water intrusion.

• The map screen is enabled with base maps, topography lines, hill shading, and some trails. Record or load GPX trails and riding areas, and transfer to a PC using the MicroSD card. Voyager Pro comes loaded with North American maps, but other map regions can be downloaded for free.

• Amongst the major features is Buddy Tracking, which uses localized radio signals and can support up to 20 riders in a single group. View members of your ride group on the map screen in real time, increase your following distances, and use the buddy beacon to summon your buddies. Cell reception is not required.

• Voyager Pro is Bluetooth enabled for intercom, phone and media controls. Play songs from your phone or MicroSD card using a Bluetooth headset, speaker, or intercom. Two phones and two headsets can be connected at the same time.

• The 4-inch glove friendly color touchscreen TFT display is visible in all conditions, including direct sunlight. Sealed and rated IP67 for anti-dust and water intrusion, it is built to withstand the harshest elements that come with extreme riding conditions. The mounting dock hard mounts to the dashboard, can be locked, and allows for quick removal of Voyager Pro from the machine. The dock utilizes the AMPs hole pattern, and is compatible with the full line of RAM brand mounts or Trail Tech mounting hardware.

• Voyager Pro integrates with your vehicle using standard Trail Tech vehicle sensors, providing vital ride data such as engine temperature, RPM, battery voltage, speed/distance and more.

• At 5.6 x 3.5 inches, Voyager Pro still fits on dirt bike dashboards, but is big enough to use on adventure bikes and UTVs. Voyager Pro’s mapping abilities and buddy tracking make it the premium choice for off-road riders.

Wolfman Luggage Benefit Sale

Now is the time to get set up with Wolfman Luggage! Lisa, also known as Mrs. Wolfman has been diagnosed with meningioma brain tumors, and one of them is located on the back of her right eye. Lisa has undergone surgery at UCLA’s Brain Tumor Center, it was successful and the family is relieved.

Due to this life changing prognosis, Wolfman Luggage is offering a significant discount of 20-45% off on selected items, as well as free shipping for orders over $150.00. This will help the Hougen family raise funds and have the time for the care required. The sale is not applicable to Threadworks and PACK products, and no discount code is required. This offer is also not valid with any other discounts and is only applicable within the continental USA. Go to Wolfman Luggage Here.

Akrapovic - Aprilia Tuareg 660 Adventure Slip-On

The Akrapovic Slip-On Exhaust represents the first step into the world of exhaust system tuning. By no means entry level, it offers a great balance between price and performance. Each bespoke exhaust is designed to enhance the performance and match the design philosophy of your motorcycle. Transform the nature of your bike by adding not just more power, but also that unique, deep and resonant Akrapovic sound. Whether you choose carbon fiber or titanium, you can be sure that every step in the R&D, design and manufacturing processes of each exhaust has been performed by a team of highly skilled and experienced engineers.

It’s not just about peak power - Akrapovic exhaust systems deliver increased performance throughout the entire RPM range. Increases in power and torque result in a much smoother power delivery and ride. All Akrapovic exhaust system measurements are formulated on in-house computer-controlled flow benches. Available in the Upshift Store Here.

Motion Pro - TiProlight™ Titanium Wrenches

Motion Pro TiProlight™ titanium wrenches are incredibly high quality and oh so light weight. This is a great way to add utility to your tool kit while shedding real weight. Available in the Upshift Store Here.

Features:

• These super-light wrenches weigh less than one quarter of the weight of standard steel wrenches.

• Made from tool-grade titanium alloy.

• Extremely lightweight and compact design is perfect for trail tool packs.

• Exclusive Motion Pro design for optimized strength and performance.

• Titanium alloy will never rust or corrode.

• Laser etched markings for easy identification.

• Sets available with carrying pouch.

The new line of Trekker ALASKA cases has been expanded with the arrival of the 56-litre top case, which can hold two modular helmets, the epitome of design and quality. In natural or black powder coated aluminium, equipped with the classic MONOKEY® Locking System in addition to the innovative WIRELEASE ® system.

ALA36B 36 LTR BLACK PAINTED ALUMINIUM SIDE CASE

ALA44A

TOP CASE MONOKEY 44 LTR, ALSO AVAILABLE IN BLACK

ALA36A 36 LTR NATURAL ALUMINIUM SIDE CASE

ALA56A

TOP CASE MONOKEY 56 LTR, IN NATURAL ALUMINUM. CAN HOLD TWO MODULAR HELMETS

model shown.

THE NEW WORLD CONQUEROR

WORLD-CLASS DURABILITY AND FUNCTIONALITY / KEEPS YOU DRY AND COMFORTABLE IN GLOBALLY DIVERSE CLIMATES / CUSTOM-BUILT KLIM/D3O® AERO PRO ARMOR / WORLD’S FIRST CE AAA-RATED ALL-WEATHER GEAR

BADLANDS PRO A3 JACKET & PANT / KRIOS PRO HELMET

PHOTO: JENNY LINQUIST

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

THE WORLD JUST GOTALOT SMALLER WITHTHE POWERFUL PERFORMANCE,ADVANCEDELECTRONICS,ANDANY-ROAD CAPABILITIES OFTHEALL-NEW2023V-STROM 800DE.

Shift your adventure into a higher gear. Developed from a clean sheet of fresh ideas, the new Suzuki V-STROM 800DE features an advanced new parallel-twin 776cc powerplant complemented by dynamic rider aids, long-travel suspension, and spoke-style wheels. So, when you’re idling at the crossroads of on- or off-road adventure, the V-STROM 800DE is there to advance whatever direction you choose.

Available Spring 2023

Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2023 Suzuki Motor USA, LLC

PHOTO: JENNY LINQUIST ICELAND

SCAN TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE VX-PRO4 SCAN TO SEE THE VALUE OF ARAI VIDEO

PHOTO: JENNY LINQUIST

PHOTO: KTM

PHOTO: GASGAS

PHOTO: HUSQVARNA

PHOTO: HONDA RACING

RESTORE YOUR FACTORY FINISH

MOTO SHINE MS1

THERE’S A NEW SCENT IN THE AIR

• Perfect, high-gloss shine

• Safe on all surface finishes

• Anti-static, dust repelling sheen

• Easy cleanup, mud releasing, protective film

• Fresh, scented formulation

YOUR FINISH

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ICELAND

BABES IN THE DIRT

WORDS: ASHMORE ELLIS PHOTOS: JENNY LINQUIST

ICELAND

“Do you want to rip dirt bikes across Iceland?” It was June 17th, 2021 and every fiber of my being screamed, “HELL YES I DO!” CC’d were 6 other gals, and within 20 minutes everyone was in with no questions asked.

Anya had included a link to a company called Ride with Locals Iceland run by a true Viking-looking guide named Skuli. The website bulleted out a multiple day tour with names of waterfalls and glaciers we’d see and the fleet of bikes we’d be riding. As I scanned the bike list and required “expert” off-roading qualifications, I knew I had work to do to make this trip a reality. As the rider with the least experience in the group, I decided to dedicate the year ahead of the trip to training. I enrolled back into Motoventures (a motorcycle riding school in Southern California), started hitting the gym, and signed up for a desert race about 6 months in to see if the training and increased time on the bike would make a difference.

My first day back at Motoventures, I had the pleasure of spending some time with Gary LaPlante and told him about my overseas goal; not only planning on surviving it, but having the time of my life. His advice, which will stick with me for the rest of my riding career, was to make it a priority to be on my bike at least 2-3 times a month and practice the drills I was learning every time I rode. In doing so, my ability would be where it needed to be by the trip’s start. I won’t lie and say that it was easy though. I work full time, run 3 small businesses, and have an extremely active 2-year-old. With the help and encouragement of my husband Mike, friends who would skip work to ride with me, and a couple more skill classes, I was starting to see a major shift in my abilities and confidence. Before I knew it, the halfway point quickly arrived and it was race day. Seventy-five miles of chasing my friends through the desert proved to be one of the best ways I could measure the growth. I was psyched to see I shaved a full hour off my previous race time and felt pretty damn good physically. I was making progress, but was I ready for Iceland? With 6 months to go I kept making it a priority to get on my bike, do the drills, and commit to the fitness plan. No matter how hard I trained, however, if my gear selection for the trip ahead wasn’t right, I’d be ill-prepared for my time overseas.

Iceland sounds cold... period, so I started to accumulate more layers and waterproof everything, as I was told to expect 40-degree weather and wet conditions for most of the adventure. Our group continued to email each other on best reviews for waterproof items and, of course, a strong debate on over-the-boot vs in-the-boot pants (of which our group was split 50/50). As I overstuffed my gear bag before the trip, I wondered if I really needed all of the specialized hydrophobic materials and thermal layers. I would soon find out the answer was YES, I did need it all!

As the date for departure arrived, the energy within the group was palpable. Not only were we heading out to ride dirt bikes across the southern fjords of Iceland, but the Fagradalsfjall volcano was erupting and making headlines here in the states. No flights were canceled so I hugged my daughter and husband, said goodbye for the next 2 weeks, and boarded a plane to Minneapolis to rendezvous with the other riders before we headed to Reykjavík. Two flights later we arrived at 6:30AM and the jet lag was inescapable, as no one was able to get sleep on the packed flight. Within 30 minutes we were through customs and standing curbside with our car service ready to roll towards the city center. We stashed our bags at the hotel, which was conveniently located in the center of Reykjavík, and noticed a row of city scooters across the parking lot. In a matter of minutes we were experiencing Iceland, deliriously cruising along the coastline with the sun and blue skies above. Coffee shop stops, scenic paths, and dodging buses took up the day, and sleep came to us quickly that night after being up for 24 hours. Thank God.

We woke up to another gorgeous day and I began to question if it was just myth that Iceland is always cold and rainy. Even letting this notion enter my mind would soon curse us. We decided to rent a car and tour the famous Golden Circle. I’ve seen a few waterfalls before, but holy hell, nothing prepares you for Icelandic waterfalls. They are everywhere, coming from every crevasse and sometimes in the middle of a crevasse! Since the entire country is vastly lava, much of the ground is not porous, so water finds a way through the rock instead of being absorbed into the soil. It’s not uncommon to see multiple falls over five stories high with crystal clear water bursting through at various heights, and they are all drinkable, which was even more remarkable. We didn’t follow TLC’s rules at all and spent the day traversing the falls while looking for horses and sheep to feed along the way. We decided on an early night because the next day we were going to hike to the Fagradalsfjall volcano, a 10-mile brutal climb on sharp lava deposits, slippery terrain, and we were going to do it in the pitch black of night.

Morning came and it was absolutely gorgeous once again (damn Iceland!) as we headed to Friðheimar Tomato Farm. It’s famous in Iceland for not only its tomato soup and fresh bread, but also its giant green houses that produce most of Iceland’s tomatoes. You can tour the property which includes hanging tomato gardens where you dine between Swedish bees imported to pollinate the tomatoes, horse stables, and more. Fresh pastas, tomato beer, and other delicacies were also attractions, so we carb loaded like crazy to prepare for the hike that evening. Once back at the hotel we quickly layered up and headed to the trailhead to ensure we started the hike by 8:30PM. The phrase, “Iceland doesn’t get dark,” is not true at all. As we ascended the mountain, the sky quickly turned to black by 10PM.

While we were hiking towards the volcano we noticed hardly anyone was hiking towards us, in fact, a long line of headlights that resembled ants were hiking in our direction for most of the time. Medics were on site picking people up off the trail left and right and taking them back down the mountain with broken ankles, cut hands, and breathing difficulties. We were traversing some of the sharpest lava fields, consisting of ankle twisting boulders for hours until finally a soft glow was seen in the distance and our headlights finally found some relief. We trudged up the last steep embankment and right at the crest, it appeared: millions of gallons of spewing bright lava lit up the sky and mountains before us. You could see the cone fully formed and in the middle was a sea of lava violently rolling, churning, and exploding. We all sat on the side of the mountain holding each other for warmth for 2 hours as we watched new earth forming. I hope I never forget the feeling and sound of the earth bursting and shaking at my feet. It was a peak life moment that still makes me tear up thinking about it.

The hike back down was even more aggressive in the pitch black, with only a few of us taking on the challenge of finding the tiny reflective poles that would catch the light off our headlamps and aid us in navigation. At one point, I was behind 4 monks dressed in Kāṣāya paired with hiking boots. I was dying to ask what they felt after seeing the volcano but their body language encouraged me to stay the distance and respect the silence as we descended. We made it back to the city by 4:30AM, just as the sun was rolling back on its side to greet us with a new day. The trip was life changing already, and we hadn’t even gotten on the motos yet!

We had one last activity to do before we met our Icelandic guides. The next day we got back on the scooters and headed through town in search of the Penis Museum. Between us, I really didn’t want to go but damn, if there are drinks involved, I will go just about anywhere and apparently there was quite a bit of beer on tap shaped like dicks so with a smile on my face I went. The museum was surprisingly more educational and interesting than I anticipated, as it highlighted different species, not just human, plus mythical penises (I am talking about trolls). We grabbed a beer from one of the dick taps, ordered a round of dick shaped waffles, and roamed the exhibit pointing out our favorites. We were exhausted from the hike, so we all took it easy as the next day Sculi was picking us up to head to the fishing town of Selfoss, and we’d begin our adventure on the dirt bikes from there.

Come and get us! Our crew was ready and amped at 8AM but the weather was not cooperating. Our pick-up time was pushed back a few hours due to a large storm rolling in. Our hopes and dreams of the weather staying beautiful ended here when extremely high wind kicked up and rain poured down sideways. The weather didn’t get much better but we couldn’t push back anymore, so we were swooped up and were on our way to Sculi’s ‘Ride with Locals’ facilities about an hour away with crossed fingers. Once we rolled up, we saw him… a tall, stern, viking relic. It was the myth himself, Sculi. He greeted us with the warmest welcome and instantly made us feel like we were friends from the moment we stepped out of the van. Bags were quickly arranged so we could gear up and go straight into a riders’ meeting. It was game on, and we weren’t backing down due to the conditions. Damn the weather, we had an adventure to get to.

Sculi introduced our other guides, Danny and Gummi, all while telling us the “rules” of riding offroad in Iceland, which had heavy consequences for going off trail. One thing that is vital to point out is how protective this country is over its land and how much respect its citizens have for nature, recycling, and coexisting. Even if you were 2 feet off trail, it could be an environmental issue, hence, the need to book a trip like this through a local guide will ensure you are respecting their land and culture. After the clear expectations were communicated, we were on the bikes, gear loaded, and ready to start. I lucked out with a Husqvarna 450 and teetered my body onto the seat. I am used to my custom suspension and forgot how different it feels when you are on a stock bike that’s set up for a 200-pound dude. I warned Sculi that I’d probably drop it a few times but he simply laughed his deep Viking laugh and said “it’s fine!” which put me at ease. With everyone on their bike, we kicked the stands up and headed out into the downpour and heavy gusts.

Once we hit the road, the wind really started picking up and I began to understand the severity of the storm. In the first hour we rode tarmac to the dirt turn-off, and though I have ridden a Harley-Davidson in some extreme desert wind before, this was next level. We were all riding sideways to combat it as much as we could, but the rider in front of me was blown into the other lane, and while at a stop, another was tossed off her bike into a ditch and her bike slammed on top of her. It was so windy you couldn’t even stand up once we hit the first off-road section. It felt like a death grip pushing our bodies down onto the seat and we fought tooth and nail to stay upright. I started repeating my mantra out loud when things got rough, “challenge accepted, asshole”. The asshole in this case was mother nature and I wasn’t going to let her stop me from having a good time, no matter how miserable the conditions were.

Soon we were descending into a valley and the terrain changed to black lava sand so thick it looked like cake batter. It was like being on another planet and I remember wondering how anything could survive out here (nothing does actually). The rain kept coming and even with anti-rain & fog goggles, it was tough to see anything besides a florescent green rain jacket of one of the guides. At times I had to slow down quite a bit to see the tracks, ensuring I didn’t go off path. We stopped to regroup, and even though the conditions were making the ride relentless, every single person was brimming with excitement and feeling alive in the moment. No one was bummed out, as this was the true Iceland and the kind of challenge we came for, and for the first time we got off the bikes to experience the isolation of the area we were in. The landscape was so extreme with contrasting black, blue, grey and white. In the middle of this scene, 6 gals on dirt bikes huddled together & took it in. We jumped back on the motos to move onward to the first accommodation which was a glacier research cabin on the edge of the Tungnárjökull glacier. Parking the bike felt so damn good and soon we were shedding off our layers and getting into dry clothes. Sculi and the guys started up some music, opened up some wine, and began cooking for us. We were officially in heaven. Taking in this cabin on the side of a massive glacier and the conversations around the dinner table that night was something I will never forget. I felt connected, included, and a part of this magical place that was being shown to us through the eyes of people who love and care for their land, and I couldn’t believe we got to experience it on dirt bikes. As we chatted with Gummi, he showed us the travel log in the glacier hut and asked us to write our stories among the many adventurers who had stayed there before. I added our story and asked Gummi to translate the other stories to us from travelers around the world as we sipped our wine. We went to sleep exhausted, fulfilled, and eager for another day of unknown terrain and sites.

Blue skies and a double rainbow, but not for long because the damn rain kept returning. Our gear had mostly dried before Sculi announced that we would be crossing several waterways that day. It didn’t matter, we knew we’d be soaked for the remainder of the trip anyways. Locked and loaded we took off towards the glacier in search of more volcanos and hopefully to find the hot springs. I will start by saying Icelandic water crossings are wide, cold, and consequences can be severe, so I was a bit nervous since I had barely crossed a puddle thus far. Nevertheless, “challenge accepted, asshole”. The asshole this time was the water crossings and Sculi wasn’t lying, there were tons of them.

This is the day that I was finally settling into the machine. I felt confident as I zipped behind the girls, but often I fell behind as they picked up the pace to sightsee. The girls were naturally faster than me, (which I loved) but I didn’t have the urge to keep up with them for 2 reasons: First, Gary instilled in me to ride at 50-60% my capability if overseas, so I listened to that advice to keep myself safe (ride your own ride, always). Secondly, I often made the guide behind me stop and tell me about the various volcanos or rivers we were next to, or my new favorite obsession, Icelandic folklore. The area was filled with trolls, fairies, and soon Gummi and I were troll hunting across the southern fords. I saw hundreds of them in all shapes and sizes, and absorbed as much as I could as we traversed our first of many water crossings. They varied from winding rivers to going across the tops of waterfalls beside the glaciers. What I was initially concerned about became the most thrilling part of the ride, and I found myself praying for more. The crossings took us to places that not many could get to with regular cars, like secluded springs and epic backcountry trails.

Mid way through the day we reached one of the springs, which meant tossing on our swimsuits and diving into the warmest crystal-clear water surrounded by mountains and grazing sheep. This particular hot spring had a bus that was converted into a camp store that sold hot chocolate (spiked if you wanted) and other snacks. We all grabbed a hot chocolate or tea and dipped right in to relax our bodies while it rained. Back on the bikes we headed to Mt Helka, another active volcano, which was also a ski resort (yes, take that in; Icelandic people ski down volcanos for fun). I think I must have pulled over 4 or 5 times to ask about different volcanic formations and how people know to evacuate from the area when the volcano erupts mid ski. I learned it’s not just the lava, but deadly gasses that are most concerning. The last time this particular one became deadly was about a decade ago and the locals received the warning 10 min before it was spewing deadly gasses and lava. Gummi seemed unconcerned saying that the warning provides enough time. I stared at him in disbelief. It takes me 10 minutes to find my car keys and this guy could ski down a volcano and into safety in that amount of time.

An hour later we reached our second accommodation of the trip which was a bunk house with running water, a shower, and electricity (a rarity). Upon entering the cabin every single one of us lit up as we saw the largest bunk bed on earth! It was our slumber party dreams coming true, as there was room for 12 on top and 12 more on the bottom. Once again, the wine came out and the guides were making us dinner while we took turns with the coin operated shower for our only bathing experience of the moto portion of the trip. After dinner, we walked around the grounds which had a river and a few sparse campsites occupied by giant WW2 off-roading rigs from Norway. In America we go RVing, but people who come to Iceland go war-era-adventure-rig camping. We once again hit the hay pretty early that evening.

Coffee and light breakfast greeted us to start off the morning by our rig driver, Elsie. Even though the weather called for a mixture of rain and sun, it didn’t matter as this is the day we were to traverse even more waterways. By this time I was feeling great about the crossings, so I dropped “asshole” from my mantra and simple chanted “bring it on” as we got started. We climbed mountains most of the day that had lookout points resembling computer screensavers. It was unreal to be out in the middle of nowhere on a dirt bike taking in such a beautiful landscape. We kept carving through the vastness, barely seeing people unless we hopped on a dirt road to connect to another section. On one particular dirt road, we intersected with about 100 horses being wrangled and moved to another location. They didn’t seem to mind the bikes as we ran along beside them for at least 5 minutes before they were herded off into another direction. These horses were beautiful, powerful, and so majestic as their manes caught the wind and rain next to us. It was every horse-girl’s fantasy. Ever since having my daughter, I have become hyper emotional and had been crying tears of gratitude and amazement off and on the entire time. This moment struck me deep and the tears started to flow hard mixing with the rain that was coming through my helmet. There I was on a dirt bike, in Iceland, with an amazing group of women I met through Babes in the Dirt, experiencing my entire being awakened. I was given this time freely by my husband and 2-year-old daughter with no hesitation. Not only did they give me this time and space, but they highly encouraged and supported it as well. Packing in that moment of gratitude for my support system to memory, I raced on.

Within 10 miles we all came to a complete halt. Before us was the largest water crossing we had ever seen that dropped into a 4-story waterfall. I staged myself to be last and watched the gals go before me from the top of the hill. One then two, three, four riders made it through. Then rider 5 entered the water and all of a sudden low sided down into the current. She popped up, hulked the bike upright, and was able to push it out of harms way with the help of the guide. Rider 6 then took on the challenge, and with similar luck low sided into the current in the exact same spot. As soon as she popped up and got the bike cleared, I saw her running back into the water for the sheer purpose of waving directions to me from the hill. From her sign language I gathered there were some larger boulders under the water that both riders had hit and she wanted to make sure I went around them safely. She reminded me of a traffic controller on an aircraft carrier as she used her entire body to mimic the line I needed to make it through. I gave her the thumbs up and she ran out of the water to join the other gals who were cheering me on as I descended the hill with elbows up and body positioning in attack mode. Once my tire hit the water all I could think was “holy shit, it’s on”. The rocks shifted beneath my tires and water sprayed up and over my bars into my helmet. I was blinded but soon felt traction and heard cheering which indicated I had made it to the other side. This was one of many times we celebrated as a group. Helmets off and smiles blazing, we laughed and hugged and let feelings overtake us. We got back on the bikes and rode into rolling green mountains until we came upon a natural boulder bridge with falls on either side. It was extremely slippery and dangerous, so the guides wanted to walk the bikes across due to the higher consequence of losing the bike in the falls or possibly drowning. With all bikes across, we rolled up and down the beautiful hills until we dropped into a valley that had a river and several waterfalls moving through the terrain. And there it was, a story-book cottage next to the falls where we’d be staying for the night. As we pulled up exhausted and grateful to be there, we noticed we weren’t alone. Already parked and off-loading were 4 people who had taken over this tiny sheep herders’ cabin. We were instructed by the guides to off load and that they’d handle it. Turns out the other group happened to see the cabin from afar and decided to stay there, ignoring the fact it had been rented for the night. The other group argued they had a reservation and when asked to show it, they refused. Sculi wasn’t having it and, as the protector he is, escorted the group out with directions of a nearby hostel. This is one of many times I was so grateful to ride with the locals who know every inch of this country including customs, laws, and how things work in situations like this. No one would dare argue with Sculi, his larger-than-life persona and size is enough to simply make you agree with him. With the squatters booted, the wine and dinner commenced. Afterwards we walked to the falls and enjoyed the most gorgeous views together before piling into the sheep herder’s cottage that sat next to the falls.

We were told that this next day was most people’s favorite as the views were even more spectacular. In my mind I couldn’t fathom it being better than what we had seen thus far, but hey, the locals know best, and true to form they were right. The sun broke through and threw light across the mountains while shifting clouds cast the most remarkable shadows on the new terrain. Soon we were cresting a mountain and dropped into a valley beside yet another massive glacier. We were told the river crossings were going to be more severe in this direction due to the waterfalls mixing with glacier run off, apparently a deadly combo. As we neared the side of the glacier, you could see the dirty mixture composed of ash from thousands of years ago with the fresh river water. The speed of which it was flowing was violent and eerie to say the least. We continued through the mountains until we reached the most dangerous crossing yet. The current was extremely strong, and if you were to go down and get pinned by the bike, it could lead to a fatality. The guides were firm with walking the bikes across and not one of us even questioned it. Arms linked we crossed together with water coming up to our thighs as the guides manhandled each bike across for us. We spent the next 15 minutes dumping water from boots and wringing out gear. At this point I had officially lost count of the water crossings.

We still had quite a bit of ground to cover as this last day stretched the most mileage. I believe we were averaging about 100 miles per day, and this one was 150. One of the best parts about Iceland is that the days are so long that you aren’t too worried about time and racing the sunset. This meant we stopped about every hour or so to snack, snap some photos, or pee behind a lava rock. The pace was what we wanted it to be and we were encouraged to stop as much as we’d like, as the sweeper would stay with the last person (99% of the time that last person was me). At times it was just Gummi and me, with no one else in sight as we meandered behind the group. I had my very own personal tour guide who knew everything, and I loved that part of the trip just as much as the other aspects.

We were nearing the end of the off-roading for the day before we hit the road to head back to Selfoss. I was picking up some speed around a corner and saw one more crossing coming up, but on the other side 3 bikes laid in a pile. I got closer and saw one of the gals clutching her left hand. She was okay, just in a lot of pain with no idea if her wrist was broken. With a wrap and a couple of Tylenol, she got back on the bike unable to use the clutch, and slowly made her way through the last few miles of off-road. Now, I have to mention that this is the toughest person I know, so to see her in visible pain, I knew it must have been really bad. Nonetheless, she trudged on. Selfoss slowly came back into view and before we knew it, we were putting our kickstands down. I sat on that Husqvarna FE450 a few minutes longer not wanting to get off. This bike had taken me on an adventure of a lifetime and I was having a hard time removing myself. It was bittersweet saying goodbye to the crew, but deep down I knew it wasn’t the last time I’d see them. We loaded into the van, headed back to Reykjavik, and were checking back into the Foss Hotel by nightfall.

Was it really over? We all woke exhausted but had a hat trick up our sleeve for ultimate relaxation and recuperation. Today we’d spend the entire day at the Blue Lagoon, a gorgeous mineral spa with massages, float therapy, swim up bar, and exquisite restaurant. We had reservations for months due to this experience’s extreme popularity, and when we walked through the door I fully understood why. It was absolutely gorgeous. Glass windows overlooked lava rock and the warm bright blue mineral-enriched water which we’d soon be soaking in. The spa was flawless when it came to cleanliness and we were in our swimsuits and robes heading out to the healing baths in minutes. Once in, our entire bodies relaxed. On one end was a mask bar where you could pick out various skin treatments, and on the other a swim up bar that had champagne, beer, wine, and fresh pressed juices. We swam to the juice bar, masked up, and laid back as the sun came out behind the clouds for our first gorgeous day since we got on the bikes. An hour later, I was experiencing float therapy, an in-water massage and float in the quiet pool. A few of the gals even took in a 2-hour nap as they floated. After the massages, sauna, and steam room, we showered up and headed to our dinner reservation in a glass restaurant built into the side of volcanic rock. It was an amazing experience, and after a 4-day ride, maybe a necessity.

Feeling recovered, we spent our last day in the city souvenir shopping, sipping hot chocolate, and experiencing the best lobster bisque of my life at the Seafarer. It was a day to enjoy the town one last time and gave us ample time to repack gear bags and luggage for the trip home. Anya and I strolled out that evening for dinner and ended up at the city center where we split a bottle of Viognier, mingling with the many tourists who revolved through the bar stools next to us. It was refreshing to be surrounded by a diverse cultural mixture. We met up with the rest of the group for our last drink and toasted to friendship and adventure before we departed the land of Fire and Ice, vowing that it wouldn’t be our last.

By the time I got home I was just short of being gone for 2 weeks, the longest I had ever left my daughter. I opened the front door and there she was, smiling so big and bright. I held out my arms and she ran into them yelling “Mama, you are home!” Nothing felt more grounding than her small arms grasped around my neck as I lifted her up. My heart was bursting with love as I returned to my family, the best version of myself.

There are memories and experiences burned into the core of my mind from this trip that I will never forget. The sound of earth forming, glaciers cracking, and the laugher of my friends in moments of pure excitement. This wasn’t just a trip, but a true adventure that challenged and brought out the best of us. To be able to experience this with Anya Violet, Joy Lewis, Malary Lee, Jenny Linquist, Michelle Lewis, and Leyla Hujer was simply incredible and life altering. I am grateful to have cultivated friendships through these riders at Babes in the Dirt & Babes Ride Out where our mantra has always been to “empower women, explore the world, on two wheels”. Babes in the Dirt and Babes Ride Out have made that a reality for me, and they can do it for you. Who knows, maybe you’ll meet your best friends at one of these events and find yourself an adventure squad for life. When find yourself staring at an email titled “Do you want to rip dirt bikes through Iceland?” this year when we publicly launch our newest adventure, Babes in the Dirt Iceland Aug 17-22 2024, we hope every fiber of your being screams “HELL YES I DO”. We can’t wait to bring you with us to experience the off-road adventure of a lifetime as we join forces with Ride with Locals Iceland for this new addition to our event series. Stay tuned by following @babesinthedirt for all details and hope to ride with you soon - Ashmore

A huge thanks to www.ridewithlocals.is for being incredible guides, riders, and hosts.

WORDS: CHAD DE ALVA PHOTOS: MIGUEL SANTANA

Suzuki’s DR 650 is a legendary motorcycle. For more than 30 years, the bike has remained essentially the same: It’s still the carbureted, oil-cooled, analog speedometer, dual sport stalwart that has a worldwide cult-status following. The DR 650 is affordable, Toyota Hilux reliable, fixable with duct tape and a sledgehammer, and countless examples of the bike have been ridden around the world. While other bikes are leveraging more and more computer processing power and sensors to deliver their riding experiences, the DR continues to provide an analog, mechanical experience that feels like a trip back in time. Yet that’s precisely what makes a DR so much fun to ride. There are no computer-controlled safety nets in the form of traction control or ABS on a DR. How hard a DR can brake into a corner, or how much power it can put to the ground is directly correlated to the rider’s ability. That’s why riding a DR 650 delivers a rewarding and fulfilling riding experience that never gets old – and that’s exactly why we decided to build another one.

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

Inspiration for Upshift’s third DR 650 project build came largely from a good friend who had an awesome DR 650 for a few years. His particular DR was extensively modified, and the sum of the bike’s parts was a very capable dual sport bike that had no problem hanging with modern dual sport and adventure bikes on everything from twisty tar to sand dunes. Our buddy’s DR could crush miles on the slab commuting to work, and tackle BDRs and all sorts of off-road riding short of properly technical singletrack on the weekends – in other words, the bike was a true 50/50 machine that worked very well. A big part of this DR’s performance was due to the conversion to inverted forks, which is something that we knew we wanted to do to our DR build. With a performance target in mind and a list of things we wanted to improve upon over our last build, we got to work sourcing a new bike and parts, many of which came from the DR gurus at ProCycle.

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

SUSPENSION

As luck would have it, our friends at Seat Concepts had a set of Suzuki DR-Z 400 Super Moto (SM) forks on hand, and these inverted forks would work perfectly for our DR 650 build. The SM forks have the same amount of travel as stock DR forks, so we wouldn’t destroy the DR’s chassis geometry by switching to the SM forks. Featuring externally adjustable compression and rebound, and larger diameter and therefore stiffer fork tubes, the SM forks were ideal for the conversion process. With the SM forks in hand, our next move was to properly set these forks up for our unique needs and rider weights.

In the rear, we went straight to the top shelf offering from ProCycle: A Nitron R3 shock which was setup for our unique requirements. With externally adjustable high and low speed compression and rebound damping and an optional hydraulic preload adjuster, the Nitron R3 is a proper shock that gives the DR a rear end that can keep up with the front.

WHEELS AND TIRES

Switching to DR-Z 400 SM forks meant that we would need to completely reinvent the front end of our DR as SM forks have a wider spacing than the DR forks. Thankfully, Super Moto triple clamps drop right into the DR’s frame, and we used a pair of Zeta machined triple clamps to hold our SM forks. Mounting the DR’s dash to the SM triple clamps is another story, however. More on that in a minute. The SM has a larger axle diameter than the DR, so our solution was to build a unicorn wheel – and for that we turned to Dubya USA.

We sourced a stock DR-Z 400 SM front hub, which Dubya cerakoted black and laced to an Excel 21x1.85” rim with stainless spokes and black nipples. This wheel is significantly stronger than stock, and the OEM hub, wheel bearings, seals, and spacers ensure factory fit and finish. This OEM hub allowed us to use the SM’s 320mm OEM rotor and front brake assembly as well, which gave us plenty of front wheel stopping power. The rear wheel was built in the same way. We sourced a complete OEM DR 650 hub, which Dubya cerakoted black and laced to a 17x2.5” rear Excel rim using the same black nipples and stainless spokes. This wheelset perfectly compliments the DR’s black livery, and provides additional strength and stiffness so we can push the bike as hard as we dare off-road without having to worry about launching a stock rim.

Wrapping the DR’s wheels are Mitas E-10 tires in 90/90-21 front and 140/80-17 rear sizing. These tires provide a good balance of on and off-road performance catering to the DRs dual sport capability. Ultra heavy duty tubes in both tires allow us to run lower pressures off-road for additional traction, and they add pinch flat resistance.

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

Main image by Upshift Online

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

MOTOR

One of the best parts of the DR 650 is the John Deere tractor-like reliability of its motor. Bearing this in mind, we opted to leave the top end of the motor stock, and only add performance by splitting cases and changing out the transmission. Nova Racing makes a wide ratio transmission kit for the DR 650 that increases gear spread by 13%, allowing for lower first and second ratios while increasing third through fifth gear ratios. Durability is also increased as the Nova cogs are machined and case hardened. Final drive ratios are stock (15/42), and we opted to replace the stock drive cushions with ProCycle polyurethane cushions.

On the intake side of the motor, we swapped the stock carburetor for a Mikuni TM40 Carb, which provides much better fueling and other quality of life improvements, like an easy to reach choke knob and fuel screw. On the exhaust side, we replaced the stock boat anchor system with a LeoVince X-3. This system provides significant weight savings over the stock unit and comes with USFS approved spark arrestor. The X-3 is also much quieter than other aftermarket options out there, and it still delivers that classic thumper soundtrack without hurting your ears.

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

COCKPIT

Changing the DR over to SM triple clamps required us to develop our own solutions for mounting all of the dash accoutrements and indicator lamps. I developed a 3D-printed bracket that holds the ignition switch so that the DR’s steering lock could be used with the SM triple clamps. The same process was applied to the Neutral, Turn, and HiBeam indicator lamp unit which mounts on the top triple clamp right next to the ignition switch. The stock mechanical speedometer/odometer was replaced with a Trail Tech Vapor computer.

A set of Cheetah Factory Racing Hard Enduro bars wrapped in Motion Pro Grips provide mounting points for the stock levers, and the whole package is protected by a set of Acerbis X-Factor full wrap hand guards. Doubletake Mirrors are standard parts on all our bikes, and a single Enduro mirror keeps the DR road legal. Rounding out the cockpit is the Cyclops Adventure Sports Cyclops Rally Light with a Phoenix LED headlight. Cyclops Multi-function 3.0 LED turn signals provide a low profile replacement to the stock units, and they add a measure of additional safety to the bike: the front signals work as daytime running lights, and the rear signals light up red when the brake is applied.

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

CHASSIS

An Acerbis 5.3 gallon tank expands the bike’s range significantly, while an Acerbis skid plate protects the bike’s belly. The stock footpegs and mounts were replaced with rigid mounts and IMS core pegs for additional boot grip. A Warp 9 rear brake lever provides additional feel and durability over the stock brake lever. Seat Concepts was the obvious source for a real seat that provides all day comfort, and a Pro Moto Billet rack that provides a platform to secure small items, or to anchor a Mosko Moto Reckless 40 luggage system when we’re out for longer rides.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

After months spent turning wrenches, sourcing and developing parts, tuning and testing other parts and systems, our DR 650 was finally ready for a shakedown ride. Given that many riding areas in the western United States are still closed thanks to a record-breaking winter snowfall, we decided to get one more desert trip in, so we headed to the sand, slickrock, and cedar mesas of Utah.

On road, our DR 650’s wide ratio transmission quickly proved its worth while sampling some of the twisty-windy narrow paved roads that climb up and down the mesas. The Mitas tires provided plenty of grip on the tar, and the SM-spec front rotor was a welcome addition when it came to diving into the corners. With balanced wheels and an open air cockpit where you sit on the bike as opposed to in it, our DR 650 is a joy to ride on pavement. From cruising through town to getting after it while chasing your buddies on ADV bikes through canyon country, the DR 650 does a great job with the road half of the dual sport equation.

In the dirt, the DR 650’s new front end and suspension package quickly demonstrated that it was absolutely worth the work of reinventing the bike’s front end. On technical slick rock 4x4 trails, we could jump up and down obstacles with complete confidence. Flying over embedded rocks did nothing to upset the chassis, nor did G-outs no matter how fast we ran into them. For the record, in case anyone else wants to really up their DR’s forks, DR-Z 400 Super Moto Forks work brilliantly on a DR 650.

Supermoto forks also provide additional stiffness, and combined with a much better front wheel, I was riding the DR point and shoot style in a matter of minutes. The bike proved that it could handle anything I pointed it at, so the game became finding the fun line, instead of looking for the easy line to get the bike through an obstacle.

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

Our changes to the bike’s bars, pegs, grips, and seat all helped to create a cockpit that worked well for my 6-foot 1-inch frame whether I was sitting or standing. We put three solid days in on the DR while in Utah, and I wouldn’t hesitate to put a few weeks or longer on this bike thanks to its ergonomics that felt comfortable and balanced.

It’s always interesting to see how reality compares to your expectations. After so many hours sunk into this bike build splitting cases, replacing the front end, developing parts, and on all of the little details, DR 3.0 managed to hit most all of its targets. The bike is a joy on road, and it’s plenty capable once the pavement ends, whether that’s crushing dirt roads and two tracks or getting a little sand fix in. The bike has great 50/50 manners, and thanks to its Reckless 40 luggage system, it’s load-and-go ready for any sort of BDR or multi day riding mission. Dropping the luggage would make the bike a great commuter, or a great option for an after-work throttle therapy session. Project bikes are never truly finished, and the process of building, testing and revising will continue with this bike – we’re still fine tuning the carb and we’ll probably explore different tires depending on how the bike will be used in the coming months. Yet as it sits, our DR 650 is an awesome dual sport bike that proves that old-school air (and oil) cooled bikes are still a treat to ride. If the number of folks who have stopped us to ask about the DR is any indicator – we’re clearly not alone in thinking bikes like this are awesome.

CHECK OUT THE VIDEO ON

SUZUKI DR650S ADV PROJECT BIKE

2022 Suzuki DR650S www.suzukicycles.com

ProCycle Build Parts www.procycle.us

• LeoVince X-3 Enduro Slip-On Muffler

• Mikuni TM40 Kit w/DT1 Filter

• Billet Throttle Tube

• Nova Racing Wide Ratio Transmission

• Barnett Clutch Kit

• 250 Conversion Brake Light Kit

• JNS Engineering - Low Foot Peg Low Mounts

• Cush Drive Premium Polyurethane Damper

• Nitron - R3 Adventure Series Shock

• Pro Cycle Case Saver

• Warp 9 brake Lever

• Warp 9 Rim Locks

Front Suspension: Custom DRZ400 Supermoto fork conversion by 7K machine

Tires : Mitas E-10 Enduro, Rear: 140/80-17, Front: 90/90-21 www.mitas-moto.com

Wheels: Dubya Excel Rims with HD Spokes www.dubyausa.com

Headlight: Cyclops Phoenix LED Rally Light www.cyclopsadventuresports.com

Turn Signals: Cyclops Multi Function 3.0 LED Turn Signal Kit www.cyclopsadventuresports.com

Handlebars: Cheetah Factory Racing Enduro Bar www.cheetahfactoryracing.com

Grips: Motion Pro www.motionpro.com

Seat: Seat Concepts Comfort www.seatconcepts.com

Digital Dash: Trail Tech Vapor www.trailtech.net

Hand Guards: X-Factor www.acerbisusa.com

Fuel Tank: Acerbis 5.3 Gallon www.acerbisusa.com

Skid Plate: Acerbis www.acerbisusa.com

Footpegs: IMS Core Enduro www.imsproducts.com

Mirrors: Doubletake Mirrors www.doubletakemirror.com

Cargo Rack: FastWay Pro Moto Billet www.fastway.zone

Luggage: Mosko Moto Reckless 40L System www.moskomoto.com

SURVEYOR PANT

FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT

The Surveyor is a durable trail riding pant designed for aggressive mobility and all-day comfort. It combines Cordura ® stretch ripstop fabric and ultra-breathable Schoeller ® Dynatex micro-mesh panels at the knee and seat that allow air to flow directly through the pant.

Geomax AT81 Front and Geomax AT81 EX Rear tires

Dunlop’s Geomax AT81 Front and Geomax AT81 EX Rear tires are staple offerings in the world of off-road motorcycle tires. They’ve been on the market for several years now, yet they are still a great option for riders who are looking for well-rounded performance out of a front tire, and all of the traction out of a rear tire. After running so many different tires from other manufacturers, it’s always enjoyable to revisit a known tire combination that you haven’t used in a while. Like catching up with an old friend where you just pick up where you left off, it’s been great to get back out on the AT81F and AT81EX for many of the different types of riding that fall under the all-encompassing term of “off-road.”

The AT81F and AT81EX are part of the larger Geomax AT81 family which includes multiple compounds, ply construction, and sizes. The AT81 front is available in either 80/100-21 or a 90/90-21 sizing. The rear is available in three flavors: AT81, AT81 RC, and the AT81 EX. RC stands for Reinforced Construction, and AT81’s bearing the RC moniker have four Nylon plies as opposed to the normal two. AT81 and AT81RC rear tires are available in 110/90-18, 110/100-18, and 120/90-18 sizing. The EX in AT81 EX stands for Enduro Cross, and this rear tire is available in one size: 110/100-18. The AT81 EX uses the same compound as Dunlop’s D803GP trials tire, which is what makes this tire have so much grip.

When a tire has the word Endurocross affiliated with its name, using the tire in certain conditions is required. Since riding outside is always better than riding in a stadium, we made the quick trip up to Page, AZ, for the Grinding Stone Hard Enduro to get reacquainted with the AT81s. If you’ve never seen anything from this incredibly spectator friendly race – you’re missing out on some truly impressive and scenic riding, so go consult the internet. Grinding Stone takes place on slickrock mesas and in deep sand, and the course is full of insanely intimidating climbs and descents. Slickrock is like 80 Grit sandpaper, so there’s insane traction until sand is sprinkled on top of the slickrock, at which point its name makes much more sense. In the deep sand that became progressively more dry as the race weekend went on, the AT81s had no problem holding a line while pointing and shooting down whooped out sand tracks, or digging in to climb the steep slip faces of Sand dunes.

Riding on slickrock is where the AT81 EX started to show what it’s really capable of, and to be perfectly clear, the limiting factor was 100% what the rider was willing to attempt, and not the tire. The grip provided by the trials compound is most impressive, but the downside is that when used aggressively the tire will wear quickly. That being said, the AT81 EX inspires you to tempt fate in places like Page, AZ, so discipline is required in order to not gain firsthand knowledge of why the race is called Grinding Stone – Gravity has this nasty habit of making sure that what doesn’t make it up a climb comes grinding down on 80 grit slickrock.

TESTED: Geomax AT81 Front and Geomax AT81 EX Rear tires

Walking away in one piece from our trip to Page, our next move was to get out for some proper dual sport / and exploration riding. On hard packed, decomposed granite roads and trails in Central Arizona, the AT81F provided consistent, communicative performance. The tire lets you know that it’s starting to slide instead of just tucking out from under you. The AT81 EX continued to provide all the traction, and on hard packed surfaces under hard acceleration or breaking, you could feel the blocks squirming around a little bit. When you exceed the traction of the EX in a power slide, the tire steps out and comes back in quite well, but doing this isn’t conducive to getting the most mileage out of this tire.

On our local singletrack which is currently in the hero dirt/muddy/extra rocky from all of the spring run-off stage of life, the AT 81 EX works great. Its combination of a trials tire compound with proper off-road proportions (not trials tire proportions) means that the AT 81 EX can party on singletrack like the best off-road or MX tires, yet it also provides top shelf levels of grip. The AT 81 EX is an awesome technical single track/enduro tire. The AT 81F on the other hand works decently, but it definitely does not provide the same levels of grip as gummy compound tires from other manufacturers. This was most noticeable when riding in the big rocks where I had to pick different lines, as my go-to move of sticking to the sides of some of the larger rocks in a few sections wasn’t working. Here is hoping that Dunlop comes up with a gummy front – based on what the AT 81 EX can do, I expect great things.

TESTED: Geomax AT81 Front and Geomax AT81 EX Rear tires

TESTED: Geomax AT81 Front and Geomax AT81 EX Rear tires

Dunlop’s Geomax AT 81 EX is a great tire for off-road riders who want a tire that provides top shelf grip across a wide range of surfaces and riding disciplines. We ran the AT81 EX (and AT81F) with standard tubes, but additional traction could certainly be found with a Tubliss setup, and flat-proof performance found with a mousse system. The AT81 EX’s impressive grip does come with a trade off however, and that is a short life span. On the other side of that coin is the AT81 Front tire, which provides consistent performance and respectable grip across a wide range of surfaces, but it trades top shelf grip for a longer life span. Going two or more AT81 EX tires to one AT81F tire would certainly be possible. I’ve enjoyed my time on the Dunlop AT81F and AT81 EX tires. They’ve never let me down or done anything to scare me, and I’ve really appreciated how much grip the AT81 EX is able to find across so many different riding surfaces. Tires are a personal preference, and if you haven’t sampled Dunlop’s AT81, it’s worth a go. For more information on Dunlop Motorcycle Tires, visit www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com

@_drew_martin_

Plans change. Flat tires happen. Don’t get caught in the dark.

Bullet Proof Designs is an industry leading manufacturer of Billet Aluminum off-road protection guards and accessories. We build guards that are cutting edge, innovative and purpose built to protect your motorcycle. All of our guards have a lifetime warranty.

Words: Brandon Weaver Photos: Jerod Foster

The dark and misty night had engulfed us on the lonely west Texas highway, and I was riding with a smoked shield. It’s a bit of vanity that’s carried over from my old days of sport bike riding. I hate the look of clear shield. Friend, riding partner, and photographer Jerod Foster was in front of me as we motored down State Highway 54 en route to Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Jerod and I talked over our helmet radios, “You see that Highway Patrol back there?” I asked. The Texas Department of Public Safety trooper was parked against a barbed wire fence off the shoulder of the road. The black and white Chevy Tahoe was nearly invisible. “Yeah, I saw him,” Jerod’s voice crackled over the radio. We were a solid 5 mph under the speed limit. Fall had descended upon the Texas high country and it was too cold to go any faster. We were on an epic journey across the state, and it was our last day on the bikes.

The trooper watched us ride by and took note: two Africa Twins, one rider in Revit gear the other wearing Klim (I’m embellishing the trooper’s insight here, but maybe he’s a moto guy). A few minutes later, the next machine past his windshield was a 2002 gold Nissan Xterra followed by a 2000 white Chevy pickup. No one in the convoy was speeding, but the trooper’s interest was piqued. He tucked in behind the Chevy, ran the plates, and discovered the registration was out of date. He then passed the pickup and pulled up behind the dust covered Xterra. A stack of bags packed with camera equipment obscured the SUV’s back window. The trooper flicked his lights on and pulled over our video crew, director Madison Walker and her intern Adam Bennett. The Chevy truck kept driving.

Yes, that title was inspired by the “Long Ways” documentaries from Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman; and just like Ewan and Charlie, we had a video crew. They were shooting a short doc for the Texas Parks and Wildlife PBS Channel. We didn’t circumnavigate the globe. We crossed Texas and camped at state parks along the way. The journey took us 1,400-miles (mas y menos) from the state’s lowest elevation along the coast to the base of its highest mountain, the 8,751 ft Guadalupe Peak.

SEA RIM STATE PARK TO HUNTSVILLE STATE PARK

Our journey started at Sea Rim State Park in the southeast corner of the state. We pitched our tents along a grassy bank next to a marsh that separated us from the beach. There are alligators in the freshwater marsh, but park staff assured me there’d never been an incident. Still, I gave myself a buffer from the water, and that buffer was named Jerod Foster. He’s the Ewan to my Charlie. An alligator would never eat him. He’s charming, affable, and –darn it –folks really like him. I just like to pop wheelies. We are a photographer-writer team, on assignment for Texas Parks and Wildlife Magazine. The majority of our gigs together have been about bike-packing, the pedal-powered cousin to adventure motorcycle touring. This petrol-powered trip was a dream realized. I grew up in the 80s reading the classics: Motocross Action, Dirt Bike, and Dirt Rider. I wanted to be on the MXA wrecking crew, railing a bermshot in those magnificent four-color glossy pages. I didn’t have the riding chops, but it’s what inspired me to be a writer.

That first morning, Jerod shot me riding along the rippled sand of a beach left unblemished from the overnight tide. You can’t tell, because of that smoked shield, but I’m grinning ear to ear. We left the beach and headed inland. As we rode along the coastal plains, we were pummeled by 26-mph sustained winds with gusts in the 40s. The tall strands of sugarcane plumegrass and eastern gamagrass whipped violently along the roadside ditches. We stopped for lunch and a windbreak at the Pho Xpress in Winnie, Texas. The calm of the restaurant also gave us the opportunity to set up our helmet radios. Jerod deciphers the PACKTALK’s syncing procedure. We put our helmets on in the restaurant. “Can you hear me?” he asked from across the table. “Copy,” I gave him the thumbs up.

The coastal grasses faded and we entered the towering loblolly and longleaf pines of east Texas. The evergreen giants appeared intermittently like lone sentinels on the front. Once we penetrated the Sam Houston National Forest, the timber proliferated and we were entrenched in trees. The wind subsided and the smell of pine permeated the air. After 100 miles of pavement, we were finally on dirt.

The goal of this trip was to connect our state park campsites with as many county gravel roads as we could. In the end, only about 10-percent of the whole route is unpaved and most of that lies in west Texas around Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park.

Nestled amongst the pines, Huntsville State Park was our campsite for the night. We rode in after dark and struggled to find our campsite in the pitch-black blanket of conifers. It was a blissful night under those majestic trees.

HUNTSVILLE STATE PARK TO HILL COUNTRY STATE NATURAL AREA

We had brief stretches of gravel between long sections of pavement. The Pineywoods transitioned to the less claustrophobic Post Oak Savannah, rolling grasslands punctuated by pocket forests of oak. It’s the kind of land that beckons for a little low-slung prairie home with a big porch and a shop full of motorcycles. We briefly touched the Blackland Prairies (dark rich soil that yearns to be made a motocross track) before entering the Texas Hill Country. It was all business as we crossed the urban sprawl of the I-35 corridor.

Our bed down destination was the Hill Country State Natural Area. It’s less developed than a state park so things feel a bit rustic, like camping on a friend’s ranch. Due to proximity near Austin and San Antonio, campsites are always booked. Luckily, we snagged the last spot, an equine campsite. Per our modus operandi, it was dark when we arrived. The next morning was like opening a topographical present. A sea of tall grass sat motionless on the windless morning as green covered mesas and buttes rolled across the horizon.

HILL COUNTRY STATE NATURAL AREA TO DEVILS RIVER STATE NATURAL AREA

We stopped for lunch at the Lost Maples Café in Utopia. A woman stood on the front porch ribbing some of the locals. She eyed us as we approached. “You can sit on the porch,” she pointed to an open box. “But you gotta take a kitten,” she cackled. Tempting, but kittens are never free. We sat down and she continued to hold court: “You don’t have to get dressed up to go church anymore.” – “Pie fixes everything.” – “I’m glad you guys are filming our parks.” And then she disappeared.

We left Utopia, picked up a gravel road out of town, and caught the last half of the most popular paved ride in Texas, The Twisted Sisters Loop: baggers, sport bikes, scramblers, and convertibles – oh my.

I’ve never embraced the helmet radio. Jerod had researched different models and recommended we use them on this trip. A helmet has always been my safe place, and I wasn’t sure I needed an external voice in there. I’ve never been more wrong. We had fantastic conversations as we motored across Texas. Did I mention he was affable and smart? “That rock outcropping is the telltale sign we’re getting close to the Trans Pecos,” Jerod said as we rode. The Trans Pecos is the desert mountain region of west Texas. It’s big country that gets bigger as you head west.

Dolan Creek Road is 18-miles of dusty caliche (gravel) riddled with washboards. In an SUV it’ll rattle the plastic pieces of your dash to a perpetual creak. On an Adventure bike, it is glorious. Madison, our video director, launched a drone for a hero shot of us riding through the rolling desert scape. It is the entrance and exit (out and back) to Devils River State Natural Area campsite for the night. We arrived at dusk and basked in the last rays of sunshine bouncing off the canyon wall.

DEVILS RIVER STATE NATURAL AREA TO BLACK GAP WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT AREA

We rode south toward Del Rio and then followed the border northwest into the mountains of west Texas. Jerod and I have adventured extensively in this region. Folks always ask if it’s safe. We’ve never encountered a dangerous or threatening situation.

With each mile gained, those mountains expanded and instilled purpose on the horizon. Their purple silhouettes danced with a golden sunset under a blanket of blue ethereal light. It was all capped with dark cumulus and white wispy cirrus clouds. Jerod narrated the roll call of mountains into my helmet: The Maderas Del Carmens, Casa Grande, El Jardin, the Chisos…

Once the dance was over, the sky turned black and we headed south on FM 2627 toward Mexico and into an abyss. We were camping in the Black Gap Wildlife Management Area where the state has successfully reintroduced Bighorn Sheep back into their natural habitat. This area is the least visited section of the Big Bend Region. It’s far off the beaten path, lacks amenities and there’s no real signage for trails or campsites. It would do just fine. We registered inside a dimly lit shed next to a maintenance barn. There were no frills here. We secured a campsite down a dark, remote double track road with shifty rocks bordered by all manner of flora that aims to stick you. Don’t worry, I had that smoked shield flipped up. The headlights are good on the Africa Twin but not that good.

BLACK GAP WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT AREA TO BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK

This was the day of big gravel. The plan was to circumnavigate Big Bend National park along its backcountry roads: Old Ore Road to River Road to Old Maverick Road. 111-miles of sandy, rocky, remote desert backcountry nirvana. The previous 975-miles were basically one long ride to this trailhead. I rode to the Permission Gap pay station. On the side of the kiosk there was a list of backcountry road closures due to recent rains. River Road East and Old Ore Road were on that list. Strike one!  I handed my entrance fee to the nice person dressed in NPS green and khaki. I grabbed my handlebars and the steering felt slow. I knew it instantly. My front tire was flat. Strike two! We pulled into the parking lot and swapped out the tube. It took a bit of time. I attempted to air it up with several devices and then discovered I’d pinched the tube. Strike three! I was careful with our last tube (we had patches). It held air but our day was done, and we were out of time. Big Bend NP is a big place and it takes all day to drive the tarmac, which is what we did. We picked up the south end of Old Maverick Road, traversed some gravel and exited the west end of the park.

We stopped for dinner in Terlingua and headed to our campsite in Big Bend Ranch State Park along FM 170. The road undulated in and out of pockets of cold air. Hints of moisture wafted under my helmet. The Rio Grande River was right there and I was no longer thinking about lost opportunities. I was thinking about the here and now. We were in the rhythm of the trip and nothing else mattered.

BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK TO GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK

We rode Big Bend’s other River Road, the paved FM 170 that parallels the Rio Grande River to the border town of Presidio where we stopped at my favorite Mexican food place in Texas, El Patio Cafe. The green beef enchiladas are the best. We skirted the border a few more miles to Ruidoso and hit Pinto Canyon Road, the best gravel in the state. As we rode through the Chinati Mountains, we encountered a roaming border patrol unit. They were friendly and stopped to chat with us about bikes.  We stopped in Marfa and had dinner at Para LLevar, a little market with craft brews and Neapolitan pizzas. We lingered a bit too long in their expansive courtyard.

By the time we got to Van Horn it was dark, and trouble loomed ahead. This is that segment of highway where our story began. Madison, our video director, was pulled over by an inquisitive Texas Department of Safety Trooper.  Jerod and I had no idea. We arrived at the Pine Springs Campground and waited, wondering what the hold up was. The white Chevy pickup pulled up. It was TJ Martinez, the third camera on our crew. “Where’s Madi,” I asked. “That trooper pulled her over,” he said. “Were y’all speeding,” I asked. “Nope,” TJ replied.

Finally, Madison pulled into camp. She was visibly unnerved. Apparently, our convoy fit the profile for human trafficking. He pulled her over because her rear glass was obscured and her SUV was the type human traffickers used. We all shook our heads. It was late, cold and the mist was getting heavy. It was time to crawl into a tent. We had a mountain to climb tomorrow.

PINE SPRINGS CAMPGROUND TO THE 8,751-FOOT SUMMIT OF GUADALUPE PEAK

The morning greeted us with temperatures in the high 30s. The Africa Twins were covered in a thin sheet of ice and the whole campground was encased in a dense frozen fog. Jerod and I had been on the bikes for over a week. However, this had always been the plan, to go from sea to summit, and we hadn’t touched the top of Texas yet. I’ve always believed that the motorcycle is not just an adventure vehicle but also a vehicle for adventure. I was happy to be off the bike and moving my body. After several hours of arduous hiking, something unexpected happened. At around 7,000feet we punched through the fog into blue skies. We had just hiked through a cloud inversion. There were two worlds existing simultaneously on this mountain. At the top it was a bluebird day. The sun was shining and all seemed possible. At the bottom it was gloomy, cold and miserable. I guess that’s a metaphor for life. Shift your perspective; engage a struggle, and you just might punch through that fog in your head. Or, go ride your motorcycle. It’ll cure what ails you. Do both and bliss is achieved.

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Spring Riding Etiquette

By Chad de Alva

Etiquette

Spring is here, and normally that means it’s time to get back out on the roads and trails that have spent the winter off limits due to snow and/or seasonal closures. The problem is that the winter of 2022-2023 was anything but normal for many places. Snow accumulation has been record-breaking, and many places are going to take much longer than normal to melt out as a result. Even if the snow has melted in a given area, the impacts from so much moisture moving through the landscape may mean that trails are going to take much more work than normal to get them back into good riding shape. So now (and every spring) is a great time to review key information prior to setting out on those first rides of the season.

THE SHORT ANSWER

Here are the three key things to remember when heading out to ride this Spring and Summer:

1. Respect seasonal closures and closed signs.

2. Over, Under, and Through.

3. If you’re making ruts, turn around.

1. SEASONAL CLOSURES AND CLOSED SIGNS:

Depending on the Land Management Agency that is responsible for a given road or trail, you may see seasonal closures with opening dates determined by several factors. A given trail may be clear of snow, downed trees, and anything else that would impact your ability to ride it, but it may not be open yet – so do your homework and determine trail status before you head out to ride. Seasonal closure information can be found online through land manager’s websites and/ or trail map resources. Reaching out to a local club is also a great way to get more information on trail status.

If you encounter a gate or a closed sign at any time, respect that sign and turn around. In many jurisdictions, riding past a closed sign or gate is a citeable offense. Land managers and other law enforcement agencies have these nifty things called trail cameras, or they’ll post up where they can catch you riding past a gate. So don’t be that clown that gets an award (citation) for violating a closure – you’re making motorcycle riders look bad by doing so. Also, bear in mind that other user groups may be out in the woods and some of these folks are all too happy to record you poaching a trail. Don’t give the folks that want motorcycles off our public land any more ammo.

2. OVER, UNDER, AND THROUGH

The best way to handle obstacles you find on the trail is to go over, under, or through them. Longer explanations to the most common obstacles are detailed below, but there is a great reason to remember this simple mantra of over, under, and through: the fact of the matter is that many trails that we get to ride are shared by multiple user groups; nothing gets non-motorized users more fired up to work to close a trail to motorized use than to see dozens of moto tracks tearing up the ground just to avoid an obstacle. All users need to stay the trail, and we all need to make sure we’re doing it right so that our kids will get to enjoy these awesome trails. Besides, going over logs and trying to clean snowbanks without getting stuck is great fun!

TREES: We’ve all encountered downed trees – it’s just part of the game when it comes to riding in the woods. Any time you’re heading out for a ride in a forest, at least one rider in your group should carry a folding saw, and after years of trying so many different folding options out there, let’s just say you can’t beat a Silky BigBoy. Available Here. These folding saws are easy to pack, razor sharp, built to last, and they can do some serious work in the right hands. To be clear, I’m not saying that you need to turn your ride into a trail clearing mission. Even stopping to limb one downed tree so it’s easier to get over is a help to all user groups, and nothing makes for better good will to motos than having a group of hikers roll up on you and your riding buddies while you’re busy disassembling a tree. A saw will also become your best friend if you’re riding on a windy day and a tree falls down that blocks your route home.

Many of the trees that fall across the trail are perfectly set for going over, so here is where you get to practice your wheelies and your double blips on the big trees. Just commit to it and you’ll be fine. Going over is good fun – and cleaning a big, intimidating log crossing never gets old.

Every once in a while, you’ll find those trees that just couldn’t make it the last few feet to the ground, and these are the trees that you need to go under. Before you proceed make sure the tree is stable – give it a few good kicks or shoves to make sure it isn’t going to settle lower if you bump it while you’re going under. If you need to, whip out that saw again and cut a hole to pass through. If you have to wrestle your bike under, make sure it’s something that can be done going both ways before you commit, in case you are forced to turn around further down the trail.

SNOW: Snow is a ton of fun to ride through, and it can also be very entertaining to watch riders try to clean a snowfield without dabbing or getting stuck, so have a camera at the ready. The whole idea here is that the snow is eventually going to melt, so making a few tracks in it won’t hurt anything, whereas going around the snow could leave tracks in something like fragile alpine tundra which could turn into scars that last for years.

If you’re crossing a relatively flat snowfield, just point and shoot with your weight back. Momentum is your friend here, so come in with a bit of speed and don’t be afraid to use that throttle. With any luck, you’ll most likely sail right over the top of the snowbank. If you get stopped, just hop off and push your bike using the throttle to move your bike forward. Trying to ride out of a stuck will usually turn your bike into a trenching machine and make things worse, so go easy.

If you have to side hill across a snowfield, get to boot-packing a track so that you don’t slide downhill off of the trail. Make the boot track as straight and with a constant grade as possible. Turns and low spots can hang you up while crossing. Again, a bit of momentum will help you out here, and if you get stuck, just hop off and push. Remember that the snow’s firmness will change throughout the day, so what was firm and easy to cross in the morning could be a soft and challenging obstacle on the way back through later in the day. Going up a hill covered in soft spring snow can be quite the challenge, so make sure to not ride down a snowfield that you can’t get back up. If you’re riding a trail where you know that you’re going to run into snow, consider carrying an avalanche shovel and just digging the trail out – again this wins you all of the good karma with other riders and user groups.

WATER CROSSINGS AND EROSION: Spring runoff means rivers and streams may be flowing well in excess of their “normal seasonal” flows. You may encounter water crossings in new places, sections of trail that are completely flooded, or areas where the trail has become a stream. When it comes to water crossings, it takes surprisingly little fast flowing water (swift water) to knock a person off of their feet, and swift water can also do things like rearrange the stream bed creating traps, holes, and other not-fun surprises which are hidden by the rapidly moving turbid water. If you drown a bike, can you get it out? If you slip and get soaked, are you now dealing with a potential hypothermia situation? If you fall in the water, will you be swept downstream? If a water crossing gives you pause, don’t risk it. It’s always better to turn back than to find out what happens if you fail a water crossing.

Water levels can also change throughout the day – just because you were able to cross a steam in the morning doesn’t mean you can cross it in the afternoon after the heat of the day has increased the rate of snowmelt and introduced additional flow to the watershed.

Erosion can have all sorts of impact on trails, ranging from completely blowing out sections of trails to making cut banks and other hazards. Keep your head up, and always expect a trap around the next corner. That small stream bed that was a little dip in the trail last year may have become a giant chasm thanks to some serious spring runoff, so never assume. If you encounter trail damage, submitting a report to a local club or land manager is a big help and the first step towards getting the trail repaired.

SATURATED GROUND: Another reason not to ride around a patch of snow is that you may find ground that is completely saturated with water. What looks like solid ground may actually be a trap, and trying to ride through it will quickly turn into an exercise in mud flinging, your bike becoming a trenching tool, and most likely getting stuck. If you’re riding solo, can you get your ADV bike out of axle deep mud? Reading terrain to see low spots where water can pool will help you avoid areas of saturated ground. It’s also very important to remember that saturated soil and a little bit of wind is all it takes for a perfectly healthy tree to fall over, so be very mindful of where you stop, park your bike, and walk around. If you encounter saturated trails, it’s time to turn around.

3. IF YOU’RE MAKING RUTS, TURN AROUND

It’s just as easy as it sounds – if you’re making constant ruts while riding a road or trail, stop and turn around. As previously mentioned, should a Law Enforcement Officer (LEO) happen to see you making ruts with a moto, a bicycle, or vehicle, they have the power to cite you for damaging resources. To be clear, I’m not advocating for turning around at the first sign of mud, but if all you’re doing is creating ruts, give the trail some time to dry out.

While I certainly get the lizard brain appeal of trying to see how much mud can be splashed out of a given puddle, know that splashing mud onto the vegetation surrounding a trail impacts the vegetation’s ability to perform photosynthesis. In other words, mud covered plants can’t breathe, so they die, and that lack of vegetation makes it easier for trails to become damaged, and the anti-motorized users spin that as one more way motorcycles are killing the world. I know, it sounds crazy, but it is a valid argument that’s been used by the anti-motorized folks, and you better believe those user groups are sharing their notes in their efforts against motorized recreation. When you encounter mud puddles or moving water on a trail, just go easy and stay on the trail; treat it like a wet trials section (ride slowly, no dabbing) instead of like a muddy MX track.

Spring riding is awesome. For many of us, it means discovering how our local trails have fared after a long winter’s nap under so much snow. Trees will be down, and all of this water that’s currently working its way through the watershed, or still tied up at higher elevations as snow, is going to continue to impact “normal” seasonal riding for months to come. Expect trails to become rideable later than they usually do and be prepared to deal with downed trees and trail damage from the forces of nature. Report trail conditions to local clubs and land managers, or better yet, get involved with your local trail organizations and help out! Most importantly, remember the three key points: 1. Respect seasonal closures and closed signs. 2. Over, Under, and Through. 3. If you’re making ruts, turn around. Be a good ambassador for our sport so that we can continue to enjoy our sport for years to come.

WE’RE EXPERTS IN THE BUSINESS BECAUSE WE RIDE TOO!

WE’RE EXPERTS IN THE BUSINESS BECAUSE WE RIDE TOO!