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SHOP AHMIRASSAD NOW
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Editors letter
10 Narrator of the Street 24 On Top of The Hill: Jaylin Paschal Interview 28 Fenty: Mogul of fashion and makeup
Untitled Art 32 Coo Coo for Coco 54 Unfinished Business: Cover shoot 58 The Revolution Will Be Streamed 78 Assad’s Concepts 82
Model: Chris Photogapher: @bcmiyah
Back to School Self Care Tips 88
92 Spring/Summer 2020 Meanswear Reviews 114 Last Look: Brooks for Spotify
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Models on iside cover: Tk, Pricela, Tahj Photography by @pradapharaoh
Kyle Mells
Editor in Chief
Asha Alaji-Sharif Vice Editor in Chief
Jean Jackson
Culture News Editor
Shainya Frazier Beauty News Editor
Kayla McSwain Creative Director
Amber Paige Visual Editor
Maia Pina Head Stylist
Nadirah Alford
Head Creative Director
Christopher Williamson Executive
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letter from the editor
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he “Blueprint” Issue is what I am nicknaming this August issue. As summer is coming to a close, we have one more month of hot days and trips to the beach, we must unpack what we have learned this summer and prepare for the fall. For most they would say they have been having a hot girl/boy summer, but all jokes aside ask yourself: What did you learn this summer? What was this summer to you? And most importantly what will you be building on? For me, as I write this from my hotel room in Paris, I learned the importance of talking things into fruition. I’ve talked things into existence; I said, about two years ago, that I will take a trip to Paris and next thing you know Bon Voyage! Words have power behind them. This summer to me was a summer of planning; creating the blueprint for the rest of my life. I was able to focus in on what my goal in life is, which is to have the highest opinion that matters in fashion and pop culture. I was also able to make a “blueprint” for The Premiere Magazine that will allow us to drop a monthly issue magazine instead of a bi annual issue magazine, so stay tuned for more content. Let me dive into what is actually in the magazine. We have photoshoots that speak on the idea of building up a brand, ones self, and skill. The cover shoot, that was shot by the talented Miyah, that had Christopher Williamson, Julian Houston, and myself. As you know Chris is the face of Premiere (being the Executive and all) and he has, with our leadership team, been working to re brand Premiere to better fit what message we want to
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give the world. We decided that there will be a distinction between The Premiere Magazine and Premiere: the collective. The collective will be the member oriented group that consist of artist, creatives, and multi media personel. As I said before this summer was all about finding the blueprint. Back to the cover shoot ; It is just a shoot to highlight architects of building a brand. Myself, building up The Premiere magazine, Chris building up Premiere as a whole, and Julian building up his personal brand as a model. Then we have Jon Logan. Jon is a photographer that I’ve had the pleasure in working with since the beginning of my time as EIC of The Premiere Magazine, I was able to see the talent he possessed and most importantly the potential. It was about mid summer I was on a call with him, with my vice EIC, and we talked about his blueprint as a photographer and about his current work at that time, after that conversation he went back to his roots and brought us his B&W shoot of street photography. I hope you enjoy the stories that can be told with the photos from that shoot, because I certainly did. The idea of “The Blueprint” Issue came to me due to four women the I personally look up to, those women being: Nadirah Alford(Head creative director of Premiere), Jaylin Paschal (Editor in Chief of the award winning newspaper The Hilltop) Brooks (Co host of Fake Deep podcast), and Elaine Welteroth (former Editor in Chief of Teen Vogue). These woman all have built their own personal brand and were instrumental in building up brands of media publications. Nadirah was very instrumental
in the re brand of Premiere, as head Creative Director her job is to maintain the Premiere image and she worked to do so, also her style helped me biuld my fashion sense. Jaylin is someone I’ve admire ever since she was a guest on Brooks’ Fake Deep podcast where she talked about personal branding, she is also the head of the student ran newspaper The Hilltop which won the HBCU award for “Best Student Newspaper”, very inspirational. Her interview in the magazine is an insightful read but I also recommend you listen to the Fake Deep episode where she is the guest. Brooks is someone whose personal brand I love because she is a free spirit that is also very wise, so you know her podcast is good. She recently started interning for Spotify and in this mag for our Last Look she gives us her experience there. And the last woman being Elaine, my idol, the first black and youngest EIC at Conde de Nast. I have been reading her autobiography titled “More than Enough” and her story is a blueprint to many young black and brown people who want to strive for things meant for white people. I highly recommend her book, an excellent read. As you can tell women are the future and will run this world to a better tommorow. I hope you all enjoy this issue and find your blueprint for life.
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narrator of the str Photograpghy by Jon Logan (@jl_spoke)
“I was unsatisfied, I felt like my work was becoming limited, I felt like I wasn’t furthering my creativity, I felt like I wasn’t achieving the thing that I sought to do with my photography. This summer has been rough for me creatively, a lot of low points, a lot of hiccups, a lot of denials, and disappointments. And I found myself more and more digging deeper into thoughts that I wasn’t that good at what I loved to do. The one thing that I kept with me through all this emotional ups and downs was my camera. This summer I looked to return back to what I started with in photography. Returning back into the street and using my eye to find the truth and story in the people that I’ve come across. Black and white photography allows me a space to put focus on the people and allow their truth to be told. This summer black and white became my means of finding myself again, finding my creativity, finding my eye, and to that I am grateful.” -Jon Logan
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on top of the hill
Interview by Asha Alaji-Sharif Photos from @jaylinpaschal
An interview of the current Editor in Chief of one of the most prestigious HBCU student led Magazines in the country, The Hilltop. She is a genius in personal branding and an amazing leader. She has a lot more up her sleeve.
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How would you describe your “brand?” I think my brand is about authentic connecting - finding interesting intersections between Hip Hop culture and the rest of the world. I try to keep everything refined without losing any of Hip Hop’s grit or tenacity.
How do you maintain your “brand”?
What inspired your texture journal? What do you hope readers take away from it? I wrote Texture as a way to analyze Hip Hop in a more intimate way; to discuss all the nitty gritty relationships between rap culture and the rest of the world. The idea was that readers would walk away with a feel for the culture.
What is your favorite part about
I think it’s important to do gut-checks being EIC of The Hilltop? pretty regularly, just to make sure every“Howard has such an Howard has such an thing feels right. I interesting story and interesting story and the wouldn’t say I “crepeople here do, too. I love the people here do, ated” my brand. It’s that we never run out of too.” kind of something stories to tell or perspecthat emerged authentically, so if at any tives to tell it from. I love that I’m able point something feels out of whack to document the history of one of the, with my instincts, that’s a good sign if not the, most culturally and historithat it’s “off brand.” cally rich universities in the world. It’s a huge job that I don’t take lightly.
How does it feel to be nominated as Female Student of the Year for the HBCU Awards?
The student of the year nomination was extremely humbling and came as a huge surprise. I think a lot of creative people feel like we’re not as visible or important in collegiate communities as academics or athletes, but this nomination let me know that my contributions to the Howard and HBCU community are meaningful and resonating with my peers.
What is the most difficult part about being EIC of The HIlltop? EIC of The Hilltop is a managerial role, which I think a lot of people don’t realize. We’re literally student run, tasked with taking care of everything from writing the budget to selling ads to setting the print schedule. I’ve found that I have to be accessible almost 24/7. You never know when there’s going to be an unexpected story to cover, or a budget cut, or a late night issue with our printer, or a reporter that needs a letter of recommendation by midnight. 25
It can be really exhausting to be accountable for so many people and so many logistical processes behind the paper and still be a student with a social life.
From EIC to EIC what tips and advice would you give Kyle, our EIC? The best editors don’t censor or micromanage, but strategize and problem-solve to elevate concepts into content. Making yourself a more of a resource than a boss will make the process more enjoyable for everyone.
Who do you look up to? My parents are both really creative people who’ve figured out how to use their perspectives to pour into the lives of my sister and I, and into our community of Dayton, Ohio. I’ll always look up to them for that.
Who inspires you around campus? There are so many people at Howard to look to for inspiration. Off the top of my head: Maia Regman is my media queen. Eathyn Edwards has an insane work ethic.
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Visit Jaylins Website by scanning the QR code below
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FENTY: MOGUL IN FASHION AND BEAUTY When the cosmetic brand Fenty Beauty debuted in September 2017, By Shainya Frazier
beauty influencers, fans, and makeup artists raved about the brands inclusiveness and the quality of its products. Rihanna did what most other cosmetic brands and experts couldn’t, created foundations and products for all (by all we mean most) shades of skin. Fenty beauty opened doors for more women by introducing a wider shade range for more skin types, and prompted other beauty companies to do the same. During its two years in the making, Rihanna put great research and thought into her makeup line making sure to be personally involved in its formulation, packaging, and marketing. She has changed the lives of many women (and men) and brought them together by giving the representation and products they have been searching for for years. Her brand isn’t just winning in the hearts of those who love makeup, but on the financial charts as well. The brand raked in a shocking $72 million within it’s first month, strikingly surpassing even Kylie Jenner’s line. She is now hitting the beauty scene with her luxury fashion line, Fenty. The line launched on browsers all over the world near the end of May 2019, and opened with a pop up shop in one of the fashion capitals of the world, Paris. Prices can range from $250 for a corset t-shirt to $1,360 for a Parka. Rihanna has received some backlash about her prices, but giving that her line is about luxury fashion, people should not be surprised at the prices of the products within the line. After all, Rihanna has basically become one of the faces of fashion within the last decade, and has
helped to put black women and celebrities on the map regarding representation in fashion. To say the least, this line opening in a big deal. Earlier this month Rihanna announced her partnership with Louis Vuitton Moët also known as LVMH. With Fenty being one of the first new fashion houses to partner with LVMH since 1978, it also helps Rihanna claim another first, being the first black woman to ever launch a luxury goods brand with the company and take helm of a major fashion house. Her line comes after collaborations with Puma and River Island. In her first collection Rihanna pays homage to a photographer named Kwame Brathewaite and includes a number of items that display Rihanna’s love of mixing masculine and feminine
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elements and designs with different items: constructed oversized jackets, corset-dresses and jeans tailored with Japanese denim. Her fashion line also has sleek footwear, statement eye-wear pieces, baseball caps and fashion jewelry. Her items are hand picked by black and brown designers who seek to capture the essence of her aura, confidence, and love for fashion. Rihanna also owns Savage x Fenty, a lingerie line. The sexy line has also received positive reviews from critics. Rihanna is multi-talented and is proving to dominate in multiple sectors. There have been talks of Rihanna returning to the music scene, but that debate has been going on for years and only she truly knows. Nevertheless, we are more than enjoying her on the beauty scene and can’t wait to see what she continues to bring to the table for women and men all over. She is the epitome of what it means to be unapologetically black and beautiful, and will continue to inspire others to insert themselves in spaces where they are underrepresented.
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“We are more than enjoying her on the beauty scene and can’t wait to see what she continues to bring to the table for women and men all over. “
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untitled art
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE MELLS COMMENTARY BY TK GANDY
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MODELS: PRICELA (@PRICELAPJ) TAHJ (@TAHJEEZY) TK (@SPIFFYTK)
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“Us actually having a conversation and enjoying it and tahj just being happy in the front focuses on the fact that reality doesn’t revolve around you just reminding people cause we tend to forget there are other people who have the same feeling and thought patterns, movements, etc as us in our bodies it’s like two pictures in one” 38
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“I love how the guy is focused that’s in front of us and there is just a lot of movement happening around us but it almost seems as if we are in slow motion”
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“I like how I’m focused when she is looking at the camera almost because she thinks she is in focus like it’s centered on her”
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“And then you focus on her while I’m looking at art and she is looking at me which I didn’t even know she was doing at the time and our placement in the photo forces that natural feel along with the distance” 51
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“And then leaving satisfied with the fact that it damn near didn’t really revolve around anyone and we had a natural ass real as shoot that took no real work but to focus on the fact that we aren’t the only ones that matter Now my point lol motion isn’t relative because we focused a lot on movement and placement and it’s a law that without other things movement isn’t possible also hint to reality doesn’t revolve around you and we should get people who are just naturally open free with that mindset without actually saying that’s what we are looking for just looking for those types of people to get that type of feel every time”
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coo coo for coco By Jean Jackson
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y mom loves tennis. At a young age, she signed my sister and I up for various tennis clinics and camps, making us spend numerous Saturdays perfecting our forehand, backhand, volleys, etc. Eventually, our dreams of becoming like Venus and Serena died off, and our mother was the only one left really indulging in the sport. After we stopped taking lessons, the only time I really cared to hear about tennis was when either of the Williams sisters was playing and even then, I wasn’t really invested. However, that all changed
at the beginning of July. I opened up my Twitter one lazy afternoon on the Fourth of July break and clicked on the trending stories, as I normally do. The uppermost headline immediately caught my attention. Cori Gauff, also known as Coco Gauff, was dominating headlines as the fifteen-year-old that beat Venus Williams, one of the all-time greatest athletes of tennis, in the first round of Wimbledon. I couldn’t believe it. My mind was stuck on the fact that she was fifteen years old. As in, she was born
in 2004. She became the youngest player in tennis history to qualify for the main draw. Oh, and she exudes black excellence. One thing I immediately noticed about her on and off the court was that she is incredibly poised, well-spoken, and levelheaded. Amidst all of her feats, she was a cool as she could be and didn’t seem to let the storm of the press and sudden major coverage change her mindset. From the beginning to the end of her time at Wimbledon, it was apparent she was there to do one thing only: play to the best of her ability. Although Wimbledon was undeniably the biggest stage Coco had ever played on, she didn’t just magically get there. She steadily made her way up to that point. She was the girl’s singles runner up in the 2017 US Open (the youngest ever, I might add) and won two junior Grand Slam titles, one for singles in the 2018 French Open and one for doubles in the 2018 US Open. As accomplished as Coco is, I think it’s also important to highlight her parents. They were both Division I athletes and they said something that resonated with me. Instead of making Coco focus on one sport alone, they allowed her to experiment with multiple sports as a kid. Ultimately, Coco decided to follow 55
tennis more closely, but the fact that she had options is incredibly important, especially for a child. My dad used to tell my sister and I that the word “option” is the most important word in the dictionary and now I am starting to understand what he meant. At fifteen, Coco has the world at her fingertips and has more options that anyone could imagine. The way in which she chooses to explore those opportunities is a journey I am truly excited to witness. This 5’9 fifteen year old is already a force to be reckoned with and her growth might be unlike anything we have ever seen.
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“At fifteen, Coco has the world at her fingertips and has more options that anyone could imagine.�
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nished iness Photography by Miyah Morales (@bcmiyah)
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BOY BAND POSES TAKE 7
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The Revolution will be L By Amaka Korie
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n an age where two-thirds of us receive our news on social media, countless accounts serve to inform the masses, and a Shorty Award exits for Best in Activism (Little Miss Flint won this year), it is undeniable that the face of social change is well, changing. Where people once took up arms in local militias, we now take up 140 characters in impassioned tweets. If the tips of our fingers can spark a social revolution, what yields the power of a click? This summer, the internet shuddered at the news of the Sudan Uprising. In Sudan’s decade long fight for democracy, progress seemed to be made with the removal of President Omar al-Bashir in April. However, the military seized the vacuum of power, using violence to silence peaceful protesters. Though most of the country was stripped of internet access, word of the ongoing massacre made its way to millions of screens worldwide. On June 3, Mohamed Mattar celebrated his 26th birthday with friends and family. Two hours after blowing out the candles, he was shot and killed by Rapid Support Forces (RSF) in a peaceful sit-in demonstration. His favorite color was blue. Heartbroken by the tragedy, family member, Omer Yousiff, created the #BlueforSudan movement in Mattar’s honor- a martyr 78immortalized by Instagram
Livestreamed Across Instagram and Twitter, profile pictures went blue to bring awareness to the crisis, with celebrities such as Demi Lovato and Ariana Grande joining in too. As the blue wave spread through the platform, a polarization emerged amidst the movement- those who changed their profiles versus those who didn’t. Is there any power in simply changing your profile picture? Or is it just “slacktivism” that just feeds your ego? Since social media culture values perception over presence, what you post defines who are you-or who you’re perceived to be. As feeds bubbled in blue, the lines between slacktivism and true activism were blurred with a plethora of fake fundraising accounts claiming to be the “Sudan Meal Project”, promising to offer protestors meals to aid in exchange for follows and likes. Ubiquity is not powerful alone, it must accompany intention otherwise, it’s counterintuitive- similar to how brands incorporate rainbows into their campaigns during Pride Month but don’t show the LGBT community any other kind of support. Online activists like Shaun King (@shaunking) encourage their followers to take action steps beyond their feeds. Awareness is only the first step. If you scroll to Howard University student, Milan Williams’ Instagram page (@milanacw), you’ll find a link to a Su79
dan Uprising Master Document. It’s a comprehensive anthology of links to articles, videos, podcasts, fundraisers, petitions and other accounts outlining the crisis. It also includes a drafted letter to send to local government officials and a list of more action steps to take. It encourages people to shift their compassion into action and their curiosity into knowledge. Williams explains, “With online advocacy, every single person with access to the internet has the power to use their voice to speak… it’s important because of the audience it has the power to reach”. Utilizing online tools for social movements can truly strengthen their impact. In the instance of #MyVoiceOurPower, social media was essential to raising global support for Ugandan human rights policies in 2017. Social media was also instrumental to protestors in the 2011 Arab Spring as a tool of organization and influence. Though not every account involved was at the frontlines of change, they helped raise awareness to different corners of the global community. A study by the University of Pennsylvania Annenberg School for Communication asserts that slacktivism is actually critical to elongating the life of a movement. Though their strides are less effective, followers of a movement are necessary to 80
echo the message of their leaders. As of July 17, an agreement was signed between Sudan’s military council and pro-democracy leaders outlining means to share power. The details are still being worked out but this is a major step towards peaceful rule. One that couldn’t have come sooner without pressure from the global community. Our generation harnesses the strongest medium of communication in history. We find our voice in instant visuals presented through social media. We galvanize in feeds where our posts become catalysts for change. We can shape perceptions, influence policy, grow sensitization and so much more just through a few clicks. Whether that power is exercised by coloring in an app or drawing conversations outside the lines of what’s expected, we magnify our collective impact. There are no rules for online advocacy, but if you do live stream the revolution, make sure you shoot in landscape.
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ASSADS CONCEPT
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TAKE A DEEPER LOOK INTO THE CREATIVE MIND OF THE DESIGNER AHMIR ASSAD AS HE DROPS HIS FIRST MAJOR COLLECTION ON SALE AUGUST 9TH. FOLLOW HIM ON INSTAGRAM FOR MORE @AHMIRASSAD
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"This collection is inspired by the fact that all things are temporary, good or bad- " - Ahmirassad
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Back to School Self Care By Shainya Frazier
Summer is sadly coming to a
close, and for most of us that means welcoming back in the thought of school and/or work. Whether you are in high school, post-secondary institutions, or just in the work-force in general, there is no doubt that there are times where all you feel is stress. The secret from overcoming stress lies in your routine, and if you are equipped to handle your stress properly. Self-care is not just limited to face masks and baths, but their importance is not underestimated. Self care includes a wide range of elements. Therefore your self care routine is personalized for you and what you need, and is ultimately about what makes you feel good. We have put together a few quick tips on what you can incorporate into your self-care routine, so that you can continue to feel beautiful and stress free.
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Drink. Water Drinking water is a necessity for living. It helps to keep you hydrated, keeping blood flow circulating to your brain and helping with fatigue. Drinking copious amounts of water helps improve mental stability and improve cognitive function. In simple terms this means you will feel physically and mentally better if you drink adequate amount of water. Daily recommended amount: Half a gallon or 8oz, 8x Eat. Not having the proper nutrition contributes to mental fogginess and essentially stress. Making sure you are eating the right foods for your body is vital to ensuring that you are fueling your temple for your next daily or life task. You can’t run on an empty tank! Listen to Music. Music definitely has soothing/healing properties that can help during times of stress. Listening to your favorite songs can put you in a better mood and alleviate feelings of stress.
Meditate. Meditating is becoming widely more practiced in modern society. Meditating doesn’t have to be difficult. It can just mean putting on soothing music and doing nothing, calming your mind, body and heart. You can also light alluring candles, as smells can have a calming effect as well. 89
Treat yourself. Sometimes all we need is for a friend to drag us out and have a good time. If you think you’re due for one night out, take it and treat yourself if your responsibilities for the day are done. Go out with a friend, take a walk, get a massage, get your nails done.. etc.
Get some sleep. Lack of sleep is also a contributor to mental fogginess and fatigue. Sleep deprivation affects your psychological state and mental abilities. The recommended amount of sleep for young adults is 7-9 hours.
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Journal. Most people feel more comfortable journaling because you can be completely transparent in your feelings and get things, people or events out of your mind and onto paper to help relieve stress.
Self Care is not only about outer beauty elements, but taking care of your inner peace as well. The fast pace society we currently live in is cultivating an atmosphere that tells you always have to be busy. Taking time for yourself is not an option, it is a necessity. Choosing at least one new tip to incorporate into your routine can help you to walk towards a more stress free version of yourself that is properly equipped in times of mental chaos. If you’re more prone to stress, making a checklist of your favorite steps and following through every time is sure to help you become more calm, relaxed, and in control when life gets stressful.
Take it day by day. This one is simple. Handle your tasks for that day and try to not think too far ahead. Create Boundaries. A lot of the times, friends and family can help to cause stress. By creating boundaries through doing only what you can and not over-extending yourself, you will live a better life for yourself and learn to put yourself first, so that you are able to help others. 91
SPring/summer 2020 By Kyle Mells
Photography by Alessandro Lucioni and Filippo Fior
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s Editor In Chief of a Fashion Magazine obviously I have a passion for the art form of fashion, so I will be reviewing a couple of shows from the Spring/ Summer 2020 Menswear collections from various fashion houses: Heron Preston, J.W. Anderson, Off-White, Louis Vuitton, Rick Ownes, and Dior. The photo on the left is from the Celine Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show that was showcased during Paris Fashion Week. This was the best piece from that show and quite honestly the only good piece from that show. Like the Celine show I will break down the show and also the standout pieces from the show, so prepare for some fashion critique.
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Louis Vuitton
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Heron Preston
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he Heron Preston Spring/Summer 2020 collection showcased at Paris Fashion Week Day one; The theme of this collection was New York: the concrete jungle. The overall sounds of the show was New York: sirens, car horns, helicopters flying over, and New Yorker chatter. The visuals for the collection was New York: the set was a concrete jungle with projections of New Yorkers, skyscrapers, and the streets of New York. So, as you can tell the whole concept before we dive into the clothing was very New York. He collaborates with the likes of Nike, the artist Robert Nava, and Gore-Tex. Look 17 This Look has a 2 piece set of a skirt and a sleeveless vest both with a zipper in the middle. An orange the dye sweatshirt underneath the sleeveless vest, a crossbody passenger bag, Pantyhose type mid socks, And the Nike Air Max 720/95 Heron Preston Collaboration. This is a stand out look because this is what heron Preston is this look summarizes the designer with the colors, the technical wear, and also the functionality of the vest and skirt. Look 21 We have a babushka with a Nava graffiti Design on it. A short sleeve button up with the same design and pants having the same design as well. The shoes are a heron Preston tech sneaker. This look and pieces made me gasp as I watched the model walk down the concrete runway. The craftsmanship of the sneakers and the art on the pieces were a breath of fresh air from his collection. One of the best looks Preston has dropped ever.
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Look 29 This look we see how he played with the different pockets he places on all his denim jackets. The pink was an eye catcher on this runway show. The accessories jumped out too; the fanny belt that we are seeing from other fashion houses like Chanel and Gucci. We see more art from Nava on the side of the jeans. The look highlights Preston’s skill and craftsmanship with denim, which is important as a designer.
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he show was a good concept: which was to showcase Heron Preston’s life. With the many collaborations, the New York visuals and overall theme, and the workwear this was what Heron has been doing for the past decade. Living in New York collating with other artists and designing a collections of workwear pieces. The clothes all showed great craftsmanship with many key details that run through the whole collection that connected everything, but other than the three pieces I highlighted the other looks where not eye catchers.
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Off White
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he Off White 2020 collection showcased at Paris Fashion Week Day one. The people’s designer, Virgil Abloh, has been a busy man the past couple of months as head of Off White and Louis Vuitton, but he comes hard with the S/S 2020 collection for Off White. The theme of this collection was Plastic: once hailed as a miracle material, now condemned as a major pollutant and possibly about to be considered a work of art, according to Virgil Abloh. The designer’s customary clear plastic invitation for his Off-White show this season came printed with the word “plastic” in quote marks (his staple) in one of the meta statements he has made a signature of the brand. “It’s using it as a metaphor,” Abloh explained backstage at the show, using one of his favorite terms. The Look of the show was a field of faux white carnations that the models walked through at the end of the show, it was a beautiful sight. Abloh wrote the foreword for the auction catalogue, and tapped Futura, a contemporary of Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat, for the prints in this collection. His art appears on many of the pieces including dresses and coats.
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Look 1 This look actually summarizes the whole collection with the Futura graphic tee and the Futura printed overcoat. The pants having the same design as the coat. This look was the Off White S/S 2020 collection which is why it made a good opener. It was worn by the Bo Maba rapper, Shek Wes. I was excited to see the rest of the collection when I saw this look.
Look 3 This look embodies the theme Virgil was going for which was “plastic” with the outer jacket being a clear plastic hoodie in which we can see the garments underneath which is a fence-printed denim jacket. The pants was the piece that stood out to me. The rhinestones and the hand stitched faces on each pant leg. Virgil went crazy with that one.
Look 38 This look was different. We have two flannel tops one wavy striped patterned with two pockets midriff underneath a purple acid washed flannel with a yellow red and blue rhinestone Off-White logo on the right and a hand stitched picture underneath the left Chest pocket. These pieces of the looks shows Virgil’s attention to detail and how to make a classic essentials such as the flannel and remix it to make it stand out which embodies the off white persona. Then we have the bag. The bag consists of five interconnected smaller bags that can be seen as pockets. This bag is different and also genius. This look is completed by the “Birkenstock” type off-white sandal and we now have been introduced to something new that we haven’t seen too much from Off-White which is jewelry. The look is completed with a diamond leaf necklace. 97
Look 42 This look stood out to me because of the drape piece which has Futura’s graffiti type art on it. This drape is a work of art that should be hung up on a wall or in a museum. The other pieces of this look are not as flashy as the drape but the pants can hold their own. The pants are a nice piece with the graffiti like art from Futura on them in a grayscale.
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Look 43 and 44 These looks made my jaw drop. These dresses are masterpieces. I would say that Virgil is ding a good job at introducing couture into streetwear. This isn’t the first time Off-White has done dresses though. The heels in look 43 are a stroke of genius, this brings tech wear to heels. The materials of the heel make it look like I hybrid of street and high end with the top angle supporter being made of polyester and the bottom being made up of leather. I would like to continue to see streetwear couture looks from Virgil but also from other designers.
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his show was many things, refreshing new ideas from Off-White, ideal collaboration with a prominent contemporary artist, a mixture of couture and streetwear, and a place where Virgil can be more playful and experimental with his designs when he’s not designing stuff for Louis Vuitton. When Virgil ran out after the models and picked a flower from the set and threw it to his wife, I knew that this show was special. The end of every Virgil show seems to have such a sentimental feel to it, it seems that I, a black male creative, feel a deep connection with the designer and feel that he is doing this for me, better yet for us, he truly is the people’s designer. To many more shows Mr. Abloh.
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J.W. Anderson
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he J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2020 collection showcased at Paris Fashion Week Day one ; The theme of this collection was “gender-fluid,” “gender-neutral,” and “gender non-binary”. J.W. Anderson is one of the few designers that have been pushing for gender-fluid designs, since 2012 in fact. His gender fluid collection with a focus on knitwear and tailoring was a 39 look colorful trip with breaks of passive colored suites or tailored pieces.
Look 1 Anderson begins his collection with a sleeveless overcoat look that has extra fabric in the back the covers the shoulder. This look shows Andersons take on a classic overcoat. It is paired with a gold tote bag and brown leather loafers.
Look 6 This look was one of the first looks, of many, of the concept of gender-fluid designs. The male model is wearing a a knitted twotone dress with brown loafers and a knitted headwear. I chose this as a stand out look only because it was the first look that was gender-fluid and it made me smile but other than that the pieces individually weren’t that impressive when it comes to a high level design that Anderson is at in his career.
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Look 7 This was a look that impressed me because of the tailoring. The suit jacket that had the same sort of back design as the overcoat from the first look made me give a little applause to Anderson. The loose two-toned tailored trousers was a nice look and it made the piece look fluid. Then the shiny tote bag was a nice touch to the look, but alone still not an outstanding piece.
Look 42 The best of both worlds. This look was the best look out of the whole show because it sums up the show. The tailored, layered, monotoned button up shit is something I’ve never seen before and would love to have it in my collection. The knitted striped cardigan was something that was like the knitted sweatshirt from the second look of the collection, with the empty space in-between the multicolored strips of the piece. Then the pants. The pants looks like to be made up of two materials one being mesh and it had the tassels on the side making it an interesting tailored piece. To finish off the look he paired it with a multicolored/tie-dye shoe and a gold tote bag. My favorite look of the collection.
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Look 15 The collard scarf piece on this look was one piece that was used throughout this collection. This is such an interesting concept but a clever one nevertheless. A stroke of genius. Then we have a multicolored knitted jacket that is to die for, the colors and pattern on this jacket show the knit work that Anderson is capable of. The pants in this look had a ribbon going down the side, not tassels like the pants from look eleven. The footwear and the bag didn’t bring anything new to the look.
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his show was full of Ohhs and Ahhs, plateaus, and peaks. The individual pieces that were stroke of genius made the show watchable and impressionable; those individual pieces being the collar scarf, the spaced out knitted stripped sweatshirt and cardigan, and the suit jackets. The show had weak footwear and accessories, but the focus was supposed to be on the knitwear and the gender-fluidity. I wish that he played more with the idea of putting men in dresses, because its not uncommon anymore that designers are putting men in traditional womenswear he needed to make a garment more daring than the knitted dresses.
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irgil Abloh is a year into his creative directorship of Louis Vuitton menswear and with this in mind he makes the concept for this collection to be childlike pleasures in the world. His show was originally planned to be held in front of Notre Dame, but the fire changed that. Instead, he shifted it to the cobbled streets and cafes of the Place Dauphine where the audience can sit on Louis Vuitton benches and see a Louis Vuitton bouncing house, it was a Louis Vuitton park. Program notes pointed out that he’d chosen the idea of wild flowers—never segregated in nature—as a metaphor for diversity. In which his collection was diverse in not only the pieces but the models. Look 7 This look stood out to me because of the floral chest rig. That piece alone is a piece of art. The shirt and pants were definitely supposed to be the background to the chest rig. Virgil seems to be making his staple LV accessory, Kim Jones had the monogram duffle bag, and his might be this chest rig. The chest rig first debut at his first show in 2018 for his Spring 2019 collection. I can’t wait to see where he takes it because this was it. Look 27 I choose this look because this is a look that seems to have crossed with his collection for off-white SS2020 collection, because of the plastic looking see through material of the jacket and bucket hat. The jacket is so different from where LV has ever done. The cross-body LV chest bag has the material from the jacket on the edges of it making it different from all the other LV chest bags Virgil has been doing.
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Look 35 This blue look is something special. Let’s start with the LV logo chain vest. This had me shook and also second guessing what it was. At first, I thought it was a shirt with the LV logo on the shirt with some of them hanging off it but it’s an entirely different piece, genius. The bag is also well done and complements the look well.
Look 36 There were some more looks that had this floral embroidery that is on the pants and hoodie but I loved this look for the entirety of it. From the hoodie to the shoes it was an excellent look. starting with the hoodie we have a sort of discoloration that was intentional with a light blue and navy blue, and then the floral embroidery at the bottom. My favorite piece of this look is the jacket; this jacket, if you look closely, has a zipper and a collar. The zipper with the top of the jacket, underneath the collar, looks like it would be a part of a bomber jacket then the sleeves also look like it would be a part of a bomber. So it’s a bomber trench coat, and I love it and need one in my closet. The pants were also fire, with the same thing that was going on with the hoodie is gaining on with it. The bag was a breath of fresh air, when digesting this look, because it was a mute free. The bag wasn’t too green to pop but not to dual to be drowned in the look on the body. 105
Look 40 Many of the pieces in this collection was mono colored and seemed to be a background for the bag, but this look has busy background pieces. The jacket has a utility look to it but also a slight feminine feel to it with the ruffles at the bottom. Then underneath the ruffles we have an extension of the jacket making it look like a skirt, which was a nice touch to make it different. Then we have the center piece which is the bag, that is in the OG LV colorway. The bag looks like how a trash bag looks when you hold it, but this bag clearly doesn’t have the cheapest of a trash bag. I also enjoyed to sunglasses of this look to tie in the summer look. Look 45 The knitwear look. There weren’t many knitted pieces in this collection but this one was a banger. The knitted cropped sweater over a hooded button up collared shirt was such a look. I love the detail of the stitchwort in the sweater. The bag was also amazing; it had the same wildflower look from look 7’s chest rig that really made it look like a piece of art.
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Virgil Abloh
Look 55 BLOOD ORANGE FOR THE WIN. This look was amazing. The most aesthetically pleasing look of the collection, the all-white look with a black bag and a daisy chest rig, and Blood Orange as a model…… need I say more.
Look 58 A handful of other looks from the collection there was a kite attached to the model like in this look to play with the theme of childlike pleasures in the world. This was the last look of the collection with this chest configuration with what seems to be all the bags from previous collections on the back and front of the rig. This was a good way to end the show and to pay homage to all the collections before this one, and also a way to further emphasize Virgil’s emphasis on bags.
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irgil has blown Paris Fashion week out of the water I don’t understand how he does it coming off an intense few weeks, even for him, opening his retrospective exhibition at Chicago’s Museum of Contemporary Art, showing Off-White men’s the day before, and his third Vuitton collection. But he says he’d planned out his Vuitton direction of travel well in advance. “I decided I’m not shifting gears every season—I saw that as a potential trap before I started. I stand for diversity and the idea that luxury can be something wider in this era. So, I’m going to continue down that line, and continue this feeling of the whole freedom of being a child, still learning. I’m changing my pace drastically.” With that being said this on in my top five shows this Paris fashion week. Virgil is the Goat. Continue to do great my brother. 107
Rick Owens
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he god of designers, Rick Owens, had his Spring/Summer 2020 show during Paris fashion week. “My Mexican-ness is very abstract,” said Rick Owens shortly before presenting this show. Titled Tecuatl after his maternal grandmother’s maiden name—Owens’s mother is from Puebla and is of Mixtec heritage, this is the first time he has tapped into his Mexican roots to showcase in a collection. The show was held on the forecourt of the Palais de Tokyo, as usual, with a Mexican temple set up. Look 6 This look intrigued me due to the pants. The pants has a utility look to it witch I’m not used to seeing from Rick. The suit jacket is something that I would wear do to the sleeves having a bell shape at the end so the sleeve can hang off your hands, but also the short cut at the torso also is a good look from Rick do to his shirts usually extending to the thigh. The boots were also one of my
Look 10 Lets start with the jewelry; the chain itself are massive chain links and then the star and the collection logo pendents to make the neck look full are all brilliant and add so much to this look. The suit jacket is different from the one in look 6, but not new to Rick. This jacket is what we are used to seeing from him; long and extending to the torso. The pants and boots are also from look 6.
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Look 44 This look is stood out to me because of all the pieces in this look: the pants and the jacket. The jacket has buttons that start at the waistline giving it a suit jacket fit. I love the jacket due to is length, zippers and fit. The pants are a good piece to me because I like the color and material, but also love the fit of it. The loose pants makes the look balanced with he fitted jacket.
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his show was very repetitive in the pieces but nonetheless good. I would have liked to see a more diverse in the looks, it was cohesive to the max. I always love the theatrics of Rick Owens show, the set designs are always top of the chart. Cant wait to see what Rick has in store for his couture show.
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DIOR
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r. Kim Jones the leader of the “old” new school, the former head of menswear at LV, mentor to many designers such as Virgil Abloh and Kanye. His Dior Spring/Summer 2020 show was held during Paris fashion week. Mr. Kim Jones partnered up with American artist Daniel Arsham, whose art is future archaeologies. Jones commissioned Arsham to make an installation of giant DIOR capital letters, crumbling cement sculptures situated amid serenely surreal pink desert sand. Above the entrance to the show was a faux clock, cracked and chipped; it was a reimagined replica of the one that Arsham and Jones saw in a photograph of Christian Dior in his office in the ’50s—the very same one is there today, ticking away the minutes as all of Jones’s predecessors have come and gone. The scene was set for a great show. Look 5 The Dior Suits were all made to perfection but this one stood out to me because of the material of the jacket and suit. The scarf was also a plus and made the look different from a lot of other suits from other designer’s suit looks. The satin would look so good on melanated ski.
Look 6 The jacket. The art on this piece is something nasty. First off it’s a see transparent bomber jacket with a soft neck. The water lie blue ruffles at the top of this piece fits in with the theme due to the models walking on pink sand the blue water complements it well. This jacket and the top design is also seen on other pieces like shirts and n the color orange. 110
Look 10 This onesie is a piece of art. The design that covers the entire piece makes it look like an artwork that isn’t supposed to be worn but hung up in a glass box for display. This is a stand out due to the fact that it was the only onesie in the show.
Look 27 This tan desert look is it. The belt, which is a collab with Matthew Williams of Alyx studios, shows Kim’s ear to the streets. The jacket has a zipper and jacket placement that makes the jacket look balanced but also asymmetric at the same time; that’s called calculated design. The jacket underneath the asymmetric balanced jacket has a brim on the hood so it can serve as a hat; which we’ve seen from the utility wear brand A Cold Wall*. The bag was a well added accessory to the look but wasn’t needed, due to the other components all being heavy hitters. Last but not least the boots. These boots are like the converse like Dior shoes that are transparent. These boots have build to them that I would have never thought would be transparent so it blew my mind, but what’s new coming from tHE Mr. Kim Jones 111
Look 40 A clean look with each piece doing its part by adding to it and not taking away. The button up collared shirt with the monogram all over it is an essential that I need in my closet; I think Dior has the best monogram their only competition being Louis Vuitton. The short sleeve collared zip up is a nice piece that alone would still be nice but not as effective if not on this look. The belt, another Matthew Williams collab, extends past the knee adding a utility look to the outfit.
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his was the best show of Paris Fashion week. Mr. Kim Jones a walking living legend;He is nothing short of greatness and has only gotten better with each show and shows no sign of slowing down. He is a more refined Virgil, he keeps his feet in both the streets and high fashion. Virgil will get there, Kim has had more time in the industry. Each piece was crafted to the highest quality the garment could ever get to, the suits were all magnificently put together, the accessories all added to the looks without taking the spotlight, and the show as a whole was perfect: models, the scene, the clothes, the atmosphere. Mr. Kim Jones thank you for continuing to show me why we are in this industry and why Fashion is wearable art.
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LAST LOOK: T
urns out God knows us better than we know ourselves and I didn’t have the faith to believe this opportunity would ever happen for me. Interning at Spotify as a UX (User Experience) Writer was a position I didn’t even apply for. I applied for the Original Content/Podcasts and Design internships at Spotify with only 2 months of membership on this app under my belt. But after sending 2 writing samples and logging on to 3 Google Hangout interviews, I found myself in Lower Manhattan at World Trade Center 4 this summer, wondering if this is an opportunity I could really handle before beginning Junior year. Besides everyone being soooo wonderful, helpful, and down to earth, the perks included on the job are almost hilarious. Kombucha on tap, free breakfast and lunch, a view of Lady Liberty, meditation rooms filled with spiritually enlightening books, among many other things. It felt too good to be true, but Spotify stayed consistent. My manager, Amanda Lasnik, a UX Writer, is the single most badass (I know only white women say “badass” but I just feel this word applies)
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BROOKS FOR SPOTIFY By Brooks Charis
and focused woman I’ve ever met. Also, very laidback, always honest, never on my back and inspiringly unapologetic. The power she has! After about 3 weeks, the internal jargon of Product Design and User Experience began to sound like actual words I could understand and have input on. I got into the swing of things — coming into work between 9am-10am, carrying my laptop under my arm like a clutch as I went to meetings, taking the Path train to Jersey (I later moved to Brooklyn, though but that’s another story) and then my parents called. My grandma had been sick for awhile but I thought she was getting better, she was the last time I saw her. But on June 28th, her suffering ended and she was finally free. I’m happy for her but obviously so, so indescribably sad. It’s just like life to bring me the highest highs and the lowest lows I’ve ever experienced at the same damn time. Grieving while having an internship that requires being fully present was difficult to maneauvur and I often found myself working really hard to not remember what happened. The internship shifted from just being a blessing to a mission once she was gone. God is too intentional for those two events to
be coincidentally juxtaposed, I knew I had to keep going. It sounds much more courageous in an article, but really, I had the hard realization that time doesn’t stop and my grandma wouldn’t want me to fold. So I kept going, and I’m glad I did. I don’t know if I’ll do UX Writing as a career but the tech industry is definitely a possibility. My aspirations are too wide spread for a single role (shoutout all the multipotenialites). I’m not quite sure why I’ve been trusted with this opportunity and thinking about a 5 year plan is intimidating but I believe in positioning myself to be a bridge to make these spaces, like Spotify, more accessible for Black college students and let Black kids know, *Pharrell voice* “you can do it too, youngblood”. Removing the stigma of creative careers like Filmmaking, Music, and Design in the Black community is a huge passion of mine and I hope to leverage this experience to do just that. Overall, this summer was unreal in terrible ways and overwhelmingly delightful ways, a metaphor of life itself. I’m so grateful for every single moment.
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SHOP AHMIRASSAD NOW
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This image is a prada ad from thier website prada.com. shop for this bag at prada.com.
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