UTAH’S BEST JUICY BURGERS 2022SEPTEMBER Utah Beer Wins Top National Prize • Moab’s Castle Valley Farms Sugar House Sizzler: No Gas Station • The Evolution of Food in Utah
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4 | utahstories.com SPOTLIGHT 28 Moab Castle Valley Farm 32 Ogden Ogden Food Evolution 36 Food Catch of the Day 44 Sugar House Sizzler site embroiled in controversy PUBLISHER/EDITOR Richard Markosian Golda Hukic-Markosian PUBLISHER’S ASST. Connie Lewis SALES & ACCOUNTS Golda Hukic-Markosian DISTRIBUTION & OUTREACH Jackie Kling DIGITAL PUBLISHER & MARKETING & EVENTS Golda Hukic-Markosian COPY EDITOR David Jensen GRAPHIC DESIGN Anna FletcherLythgoeMarchant PHOTOGRAPHERS Kelli Christine Case Braden Latimer Amiee Maxwell Amanda Rock John Taylor WRITERS Angelika Brewer Kelli Christine Case Rachel HeatherFixsenL.King Amiee Maxwell Cathy TedAmandaMcKitrickRockScheffler COVER John Taylor LOCAL AWESOME?& Utah Stories invites excellent local businesses to inquire about our advertising rates and determine if our readership is a good fit. For more information please contact Richard at 801-856-3595 or visit utahstories.com/advertising 6 Utah ContributorsStories 12 How We Ate: Then & Now Utah dining gets better with time 16 Utah Burgers You Must Try Five burgers to die for! 20 Local UnderBurgers$10 Where to go when money is tight 22 Meatless Burgers to Sink Your Teeth Into Salt Lake’s Vegan Alternatives 26 Bewilder’s Story Utah beers nab medals 40 Green Phoenix Farm Organic farming gives back SEPTEMBER 2022 | UTAH STORIES MAGAZINE | VOLUME 11 ISSUE 27 WE POST STORIES AND PHOTOS ALL THE TIME. FOLLOW US @UTAHSTORIES
ONLINE PREVIEW
Go to UtahStories.com to find exclusive online content:
• Find new dining experiences by following Ted Scheffler. In August he wrote about Zulu Piri Piri Chicken Grille, the Arthur Pop-Up Dining Series, and Deer Valley’s Summer Deck Dining.
COMING SOON:
• Look for Utah Stories podcasts from Richard Markosian as he continues to delve into the politics and business of Utah.
• David E. Jensen brought us an article about the history of Utah’s dinosaurs.
Coming soon on our website will be an early release version of the Utah Stories issue Flipbook with additional online content. It will be available for a nominal fee.
Visit UtahStories.com for more stories and podcasts by Richard Markosian and restaurant reviews, recipes and events by Ted Scheffler.
• And finally, Marco Leavitt takes a last ride on UTA’s Number 6 bus.
• Richard Markosian wrote about Utah’s housing crisis for seniors, SLC’s homeless abatement policies, and an investigation of the unexplained deaths among the homeless population.
• New to Utah Stories, writer Brooke Williams, talked to the people at Salt City Brew Supply. Everything you need to know to become a home brewer.
Originally trained as an anthropologist, Ted Scheffler is a seasoned food, wine, and travel writer based in Utah. He loves cooking, skiing, music, and reading, and spends an inordinate amount of time tending to his ever-growing herd of guitars and amplifiers.
She can be found on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/cathy.mckitrick.7, and Twitter at @catmck.
Amanda Rock
She covered local government for the Standard-Examiner until 2005, when she was hired by the Salt Lake Tribune. During that eight-year adventure, she covered local and state government, poverty, homelessness, the opioid overdose crisis, and more.
Cathy McKitrick discovered her love of storytelling in midlife, graduating from Weber State University in 1998 with a journalism degree in hand.
Following a mass layoff, she returned to the Standard-Examiner in 2013, again covering local government, opioid overdoses, cannabis and other health care issues.
Ted Scheffler
Cathy retired from the Standard-Examiner in April 2018, but her passion for journalism remains intact. She now freelances and serves on the board of the Utah Investigative Journalism Project.
John Taylor is a photographer based in Salt Lake City. As a young boy, armed with his grandfather’s vintage camera, he started to see the world through the lens. Even today, he enjoys connecting with people on assignment or location, or just out for a walk with his wife, son, and rescued greyhound. He never leaves home without a camera and is always on a quest for the best shot. To see more of his work, visit his website at www.visionfoto.com
BEHIND THE STORIES
Amanda Rock is a freelance vegan food writer. She’s been published in Utah Stories, SLUG Magazine, Salt Lake City Weekly, and Devour Utah. She lives in an old house in Murray, Utah with her husband, a black cat, and many books. Find her on Twitter, @hauntedherbivor and Instagram, @the_haunted_herbivore.
John Taylor
Ted is also the author of the Utah Bites newsletter, which is published in partnership with Utah Stories. Before moving to Utah, Ted lived in New York City, and numerous states in the US, as well as in various countries overseas, Spain, Japan, Canada, Brazil, and Mexico.
Cathy McKitrick
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He earned a Master’s Degree in Anthropology from the Graduate Faculty of The New School for Social Research.
In her spare time, this grandma enjoys a leisurely run, a good laugh, and catching up with family and friends.
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Bodies
Comments from YouTube: Found in the Jordan River: Homeless Killer in Salt Lake City?
UPWHERETheSUNDONTSHINE
Comments from YouTube: Point Carol Hollowell
Homeless Solutions: Work | Accountibility | Dignity | Switch
A
I take this issue very seriously. Until very recently, I have been homeless for most of the last 5 years. I am very familiar with the Jordan River parkway and I have also seen many bodies pulled from the river. Obviously there is a big story here that no one is talking about. I have witnessed dozens of acts of distain for the homeless by every police agency in Salt Lake. I have watched someone die of overdose while his friend attempted CPR. The whole time 2 SLPD cops just stood by and did nothing. My criticism comes from the lack of any significant information about this story. Where are there any real investigations by the Tribune, Desert News or even City Weekly. I know that Utah Stories is mostly fluff and very little news. My frustration is with the lack of any investigative reporting on a story that should be front page material. Trading emails with the police will not give this story the exposure needed for the public to become aware and possibly help with this. I have only seen very weak coverage of this story. Ask 10 people what they think of the possibility of a serial killer in the homeless community and I doubt that any of them would even know what you are talking about.
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ONLINE COMMMENTS
Bless this woman. We have laws preventing this type of treatment for dogs but humans we have forgotten our humanity. Developers greed is harming the poor, elderly, sick, afflicted souls. Utah can and should do better
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evhbombastic
that has blown up in the past few years wasn’t really happening in 1992, unless perhaps we count the locally-owned Training Table, which I understand is attempting a comeback. More gener ally, there simply weren’t the plethora of chain and franchise restaurants back then. We didn’t have a single Popeyes, In-N-Out, Chipotle, Jersey Mike’s, or
How we ate: Then & Now
Thirty years of Utah Dining
By Ted Scheffler
W
Ruth’s Meatloaf.Diner’s
hen I moved to Utah 30 years ago, the dining scene here — and especially in Salt Lake City and Park City — was a very different animal than today.Looking back over the past three de cades got me thinking about how differ ently we eat now than we did then. The monster “fast-casual” restaurant trend
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the first places I saw garnish dishes with edible flowers and offer eclectic eats like jalapeñoGastronomylasagne.Inc. straddled the old and new with its classic New Yorker and Market Street restaurants (old), and more contemporary dining destina tions like Baci Trattoria and Cafe Pier pont. Firmly planted in continental soil was Le Parisien, Max Mercier’s beloved outpost, serving up French classics like Chateaubriand, quiche Lorraine, and escargots de Bourgogne. The standard fare wasn’t exactly light.
utahstories.com | 13 even a AsideStarbucks.fromthe
Through the years, many fine restau rants came and went. Among those I miss the most are Capitol Cafe, Globe by Moonlight, Mr Z’s, Zola, Tavola, Cafe dell’ Arte, Mikado, Firenze, Santa Fe, Bill & Nada’s, Au Bon Appetit, L’Avenue, Absolute!, Brumby’s, D.B. Cooper’s, Cafe Creole in the ZCMI food court, Acme Burger, Cafe Bacchus, Tipica, Di jon, Ikigai, Forage, and in my opinion, the most thrilling restaurant to ever grace Utah’s dining scene: The Metro politan.Butrestaurateurs are a tenacious bunch and, even through the pandem ic, new and exciting restaurants have either stayed open or even opened anew. So today, instead of warm break fast brains at Bill & Nada’s we might be treated to the farm-to-table fare at
TAYLORJOHNBYPHOTOS
Two or three decades ago the only place you were likely to find avocados were in guacamole. Avocado toast was not a thing, nor was General Tso’sstyle cauliflower or blistered shishito peppers. Long-lived eateries like Ruth’s Diner and The Dodo served comfort classics such as beef stroganoff, meat loaf, quiche, pot roast, chicken fried steak, and items of that ilk, and still do.
big boys like McDon ald’s, Arby’s, Burger King, Domino’s, etc., ad nauseam, the restaurants I remember dining at 30 years ago were mostly independent ones. Granted, the food wasn’t exactly cutting edge, but there were a few risk-takers out there. Do you remember The Barking Frog in Park City and downtown SLC? Taking a stab at the contemporary Southwestern cuisine that was trendy at the time — Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill, Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken’s Border Grill, and Mark Miller’s Coyote Cafe come to mind — The Barking Frog was one of
Some dining institutions like Log Haven, Caffe Molise, Grappa, Chimayo, La Calle, Riverhorse, and others have with stood the test of time and have thrived for two and sometimes three decades or more. Their cuisine has evolved with the times and it is quite common at many, if not most of today’s eater ies — old and new — to accommodate the dietary restrictions of their guests. Vegetarian, vegan, dairy-free, and gluten-free options are standard on many restaurant menus now, something that was unheard of decades ago with the possible exception of forward-think ing businesses like Oasis Cafe, Vertical Diner and Sage’s.
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So, while I mourn the passing of restaurants I knew and loved decades ago, I believe that overall we are eating healthier and better than ever. Restau rant food today is far more interesting and innovative than it was when I ar rived in Utah in 1992, and judging from all the new eateries recently opened or set to open soon, the dining scene here just looks to get better and better. I’d bet dinner on it.
Even local bars and distilleries are getting in on the act. Grid City Beer Works, for example, has rockin’ vegan/ vegetarian offerings like a vegan Rachel
restaurants like SLC Eatery, Table X, Tupelo, Firewood, Pago, Copper Onion, Hell’s Backbone Grill, Pizzeria 712, Finca, From Scratch, Communal, and so many others.
And items like roasted cauliflower, seared shishitos, radicchio salad and roasted mushroom toast adorn the menu at Copper Common. There are plenty of others also raising their bar bites game to accommodate a wider wishlist of food preferences.
General Tso’s Style Cauliflower.
sandwich with seitan, Bangkok Thai bowl, a vegan burger, vegan smoked chicken wings, and more.
At Beehive Distilling, the eclectic bar menu includes tofu sliders, vegan potato tacos, and a “smacked” cucumber salad for those wanting to eschew meats.
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TAYLORJOHNBYPHOTOS Lucky Pastrami13’sBurger.
Tame your inner burger beast
Capitol Burger’s Mac N Cheese Burger
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By Amiee Maxwell
utah burgers you must try
tah has a passion for burgers, and if you’re craving one, there is no shortage of burger joints to choose from. Whether you’re in Salt Lake City, or a tiny Southern Utah town, no matter what type of burger you prefer, you’ll find one you should try on this list:
U
If you check the reviews for Torrey’s Capitol Burger food truck, you’ll see many people claiming that this is the best burger they’ve ever had, period. This is no random desert burger truck,
Fowles and his crew grind their patties fresh daily and bake their own brioche buns. Each burger comes loaded with toppings, and their Mac N Cheese burger topped with smoked bacon, roasted chiles, a house mustard sauce, and mac n cheese, is one of
their most popular offerings. Find the Capitol Burger food truck parked outside Torrey’s Chuckwagon on weekends. Otherwise, follow them on Facebook to track their current location.
utahstories.com | 17
Ray’s no-frills 1/2-pound burgers are simple and fresh and come served with a side of hand-cut fries or homemade coleslaw. Meat-free folks will find a veggie burger on the menu, although they are taunted by a sign behind the bar that says a grilled cheese and fries will cost you 55 bucks. If the menu is written on a whiteboard above the bar, the burgers have to be good.
If you find yourself at Ray’s Tavern in Green River, Utah there’s a good chance you’ve been living off of trail mix, canned chili, or other camp foods for the past few days. A trip to Ray’s is the reward for many Southern Utah backpacking trips and river trips through Desolation Canyon, because the burgers at Ray’s are top notch.
Ray’s Tavern Burger
When the Bar X Group acquired the Cotton Bottom Inn in 2020, they vowed to keep much of the historic bar’s menu the same, which was good news for lovers of the tavern’s signature garlic cheeseburger. Enjoying a Cotton Bottom burger smothered with roasted garlic and cheese served on a hunk of French bread after a day skiing or hiking in the Cottonwoods has been a Utah tradition for more than fifty years, and now that it’s no longer a bar only, the whole family can enjoy burgers on the Cotton Bottom’s cozy, tree-lined patio.
but the brainchild of Luke Fowles, a former upscale dining chef who now devotes himself to concocting the most amazing burgers you’ll ever taste.
Cotton Bottom Inn’s Garlic Cheeseburger
HUKIC-MARKOSIANGOLDABYPHOTO
Cotton Bottom Inn’s Garlic Cheeseburger.
Lucky 13’s Pastrami Burger
The Shooting Star Saloon’s Star Burger
Not only does Huntsville’s Shooting Star Saloon claim to be the oldest continually operating bar in Utah, it may just be the oldest running saloon west of the Mississippi. With hundreds of dollars bills signed by patrons from around the world covering the bar ceiling, and a mounted head of a St. Bernard hovering over one of the booths, this old-fashioned saloon is a sight to see.
Lucky 13’s burgers have received all sorts of accolades, including the Best Burger in the World at the 2012 World Food Championships, for its spicy candied bacon cajun burger, and their pastrami burger often tops Utah “best of” lists. Lucky 13’s version comes topped with history smoked pastrami and melted swiss with plenty of fresh veggies on the side. Upgrade to the rosemary-garlic fries for even more flavor.
Utah has some serious love for pastrami burgers, and one of the best places to get one, besides the obvious Crown Burger, is Salt Lake City’s less conspicuous Lucky 13 Bar and Grill.
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But the saloon’s real claim to fame is the Star Burger; a grilled knockwurst Polish sausage sandwiched between two groundbeef patties and two slices of cheese. Just be sure to have some cash on hand. The Shooting Star Saloon still doesn’t take credit cards, which although slightly inconvenient, only contributes to the vibe.
CANYONRANCHMEADOWS 10%discountonorders excluding quarters halves, wholes, and wholesale orders use promo code UTSTORIES at checkout Visit www.CMRBeef.com for retail locations Direct orders: grassfed@CMRBeef.com or (435)823-3253 Follow us at Facebook.com/CanyonMeadowsRanch FROM OUR FARM TO YOUR TABLE • Local product • High quality and flavor • Offering wholesale & weekly delivery GRASS FED BEEF •BENEFITSLowertotal fat content • More omega fatty acids • More antioxidant vitamins
TAYLORJOHNBYPHOTO
HEAVENLY BURGERS UNDER $10
This spot speaks to diners looking for a fancy burger without the fancy
Local and Delicious
By Heather L. King
Proper Burger
RisingProper’sSun Burger.
prices. That secret sauce is possible as it’s owned by the Utahns who started Avenues Proper and Proper Brew ing. All but four burgers will run you less than $10. Try the Rising Sun with kimchi, a fried egg and miso aioli or the signature Proper Style with caramelized onions and American cheese. Vegans and vegetarians are well served here with housemade patty options even carnivores will enjoy.
T
he Rules: must be locally owned and burger must be less than $10
On a quest to find that state’s best bargain burgers under $10, we begin a trip back in time to some of Utah’s favorite hamburger drive-ins and dineins for the best quality to cost ratio with a dash of history.
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Hires Big H
utahstories.com | 21
While the days of filling up on the dollar menu may be gone, Utah is fortunate that these locally owned burger joints still offer a dining experience to remember without breaking the bank.
Heading north, Facebook users insisted that a trip to Burger Bar in Roy was worth the drive for nostalgia and noshing. This old-school drive-in is now run by the third generation of the Fowler family and serves up thick ice cream shakes, onion rings and old-
The Katzourakis and Katsanevas families have been shepherding this Utah brand for more than three decades. Every burger on the menu comes in well under the $10 mark and locations abound. Burgers are flame grilled and fry sauce aficionados rank theirs as one of the best. Try the signature Crown Burger—a quarter pound hamburger slathered with Thousand Island dress ing and topped with hot pastrami on a sesame seed bun.
timey burgers. The Big Ben (named for the founder Ben Fowler) can be ordered in varying sizes (baby, double, triple or quad) and feature ground beef (or game and “exotic”) patties cooked on a flattop, with or without cheese and typical burger toppings on a locally made bun. All come with fries and all but the quad are under $10.
True to its founding in 1959 by Don Hale, this hamburger drive-in still offers car hop service around the valley. The signature Big H with either a single or double ground chuck patty is garnished with Utah’s famous fry sauce and American cheese. Making it a combo with fresh cut fries and a root beer will cost you more than $10 but memories of yesteryear are priceless.
Crown Burger
Burger Bar
Millie’s Burgers
This second generation SugarHouse staple now owned by Dan Neilson has been serving up burgers, malts and more since 1976—and you can follow the history by perusing the memories on the walls. Several things keep Millie’s high on the list of favorite old-school burger joints after all these years: all their sauces are still made in-house using family recipes and they serve rarely seen English-style chips. Prices are a bargain with every quarter pound Millie burger on the menu coming in under $9 with many just over the $5 threshold.
Burger.
burgersMeatless to sink your teeth into
Vegan doesn’t have to be boring
By Amanda Rock KeinHaus’Fleisch
Ice
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The potential of the BYOB (Build Your Own Burger) is only limited by your imagination. You’ll pay $11 for a Beyond Burger patty topped with a slice of vegan cheddar cheese. Sauteed mushrooms, grilled onions, and sauces cost an extra 50 cents, while exotic toppings like Chickpea Chorizo will put you back $1.50. I kept it simple for my first visit but splurged on the side of fry sauce for 75 cents more. Vegan fry sauce —only in Utah!
234 W 900 S Salt Lake City
4. Most German Ice Haus
The Vegan Cowboy ($13) might be the most popular vegan burger in Salt Lake City. Here’s why: vegan bacon, hand battered onion rings, cheddar cheese, and bbq sauce. Morris’s ratio
2. Most Tropical Sweet Hazel & Co. Vegan Bakeshop & Bistro
TAYLORJOHNBYPHOTOS
The House Vegan Blend Patty ($16) is what I want when I’m feeling carniv orous. The blend is top secret, but Executive Chef Channy Bailey says “... the exact ratio gives it the juiciness and flavor closer to real beef than other vegan burgers.” Top this burger with real cheese or a vegan cheese sauce, and be sure to wash it down with one of their excellent beers.
utahstories.com | 23
6. Most Popular Piper Down
3. Most Hardcore Vertical Diner
282 W 7200 S Midvale
1492 S State St Salt Lake City
5. Most Meaty Grid City Beer Works
Leave it to Vertical Diner, Salt Lake City’s OG vegan restaurant, to name a burger after Ian MacKaye, famously vegan front man of Minor Threat and Fugazi. “The Ian MacKaye Burger ($14) is the top-sell ing burger on our ‘Famous Burgers’ menu. The burger is our house-made red lentil veggie burger topped with mac and cheese, Vertical sauce, lettuce, tomato, and red onion,” explains Ian Brandt, Vertical Diner’s owner.
7 E 4800 S Murray
2223 S. Highland Dr. E5 Salt Lake City
The Kein Fleisch Burger ($15) from Ice Haus is so German that Dave Morris, the co-owner of Ice Haus and master mind of three burgers on this list, gave me his quote in German. I translated it to read, “The no meat burger is amaz ing. I can’t even put it in my mouth. It is huge! A burger and a roast on a sandwich and vegan to boot.” A Beyond Burger is loaded with half of a vegan hot dog, caramelized onions, sauteed mushrooms, sauerkraut, vegan cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, and fresh on ion. The bun is slathered with aioli and German mustard.
1. Most Customizable Lil’ Lotus
“This burger is near and dear to my heart because I got married in Hawaii!” ex claimed Lil’ Lotus owner and chef, Felicia Holmberg. Her Hawaiian Burger ($15) is a medley of sweet, tangy, and savory. Melt ed vegan mozzarella tops a grilled Beyond Burger — then makes it interesting with grilled pineapple and teriyaki sauce.
333 W 2100 S South Salt Lake
865 S Main St Salt Lake City
10. ConvenientMost Apollo Burger
nale is, “Everyone once in a while you need BBQ sauce and onion rings on your burger.”
flavorful enough to convert even the most hesitant eaters!”
“We loved the Vegan Cow boy so much from Piper, we had to do
8. Most Creative Proper Burger Co.
yondguessedsetonionsauceBBQownuse“Wefessed.conMorrisbar,”Handlelikesomethingitatourandfriestoitapart.”Youit-theBe-CowpokeBurger(
The Bollywood Burger ($8.99) is made in-house and topped with a melange of chutney, curried hummus, kale pesto, bell pepper, spinach, and red-onion. You’ll want to dance and sing when these bright flavors hit your taste buds!
666 S. State St. Salt Lake City
9. Most Satisfying Mark of the Beastro
Grid City Burger.
$14) is topped with crispy onions, vegan bacon, and vegan cheddar along with the usual burger accouterments.
ROCKAMANDABYPHOTO
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7. Most Craveable Handle Bar
Sauteedingredients.mushroomscrustedwithgarlic,caramelizedonions,spinach,andhousemaderanchmakethisburger“...heartyand
If you haven’t tasted a char-grilled Impossible Burger ($6.99), find your closest Apollo Burger ASAP. It won’t be hard, there are thirteen locations of this beloved local chain in Utah. For those of us who once adored fast-food burg ers, being able to hit a drive thru for a tasty, cow-less burger is a gift. Order the Impossible Burger as is, with lettuce, tomato, onion, and Apollo Sauce or veganize it with a lettuce wrap instead of the bun and skip the sauce. Or, get creative and substitute the Impossible patty on any burger they make for a little more money.
751 N 300 W Salt Lake City
“Our Garlic Mushroom Burger ($14) isn’t just my favorite burger on the menu, it’s my go-to lunch …” says Andrew Early, owner of Mark of the Beastro. Beyond Beef is beefed up (sorry) with oats, seasonings, liquid smoke, and secret
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Company came away from the North American Brewing Association Festival in Idaho Falls with two bronze medals and a pair of golds. Their Kolsch and ESB brews came in third place, while their Double Hazy IPA and Wee Heavy beers both took first.“As far as I know, we’re the first national gold medal winner in Utah to get a gold for that style of beer. That’s a pretty big deal for us,” Metzger said of
BREWINGBEWILDEROFCOURTESYPHOTO
“We just started home brewing with little extract kits like most people do,” Ross Metzger said of the pastime he and business partner Cody McKendrick enjoyed more than a decade ago.
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Super-hoppy IPA Best in Nation
UTAH BEER WINS GOLD
But this June kicked their notability up a notch when Bewilder Brewing
ALT LAKE CITY – What began as a fun hobby for two twenty-somethings blossomed into a thriving brew pub that as of this summer serves up its own award-winning craft beer.
S
By Cathy McKitrick
Utah’s thriving craft brew industry seems stunning coming from a state where the predominant religion frowns on consuming alcohol.
But Metzger said he’s not surprised by Utah’s quality of production.
“(Alcohol) laws are influenced by the LDS population, obviously, but it’s actually driven Utah to make a little bit
utahstories.com | 27
their super-hoppy IPA.
“It’s a Scottish ale with high-alco hol content. We did an extended boil that kind of caramelizes the sugar and darkens the color of the beer,” Metzger said, noting that the process “makes for a really long brew day.”
Getting the gold for their Wee Heavy beer also felt significant, Metzger said, because it resulted from a collaborative effort with Strap Tank Brewery in Lehi.
Cody McKendrick, Ross Metzger, and Justin Field.
But Metzger noted that he’s equally proud of the bronze hon ors their Kolsch and ESB beers received.“Those Nottapwhatcore“AndMetzgerfairlybeerstraditional-stylearethatarenuanced,”said.they’reourbeers—wehaveonallthetime.”tomentionthey’re
“So we did part, Strap Tank did part, then we mixed the beers together, fermented it and ended up winning a gold,” Metzger said.
“You couldn’t brew a beer on tap over 4 percent in volume,” Metzger said. “When you’re limited to that, you have to have really good production and technique to make good tasting beer with really low alcohol.”
gluten-reduced, he added.
22 states who nabbed a total of 288 awards, with Utah boasting 17 brewmak ers and 51 medals.
The nonprofit North American Brewers Association formed in 1996 to “secure beer’s role in our culture and society through the advancement of brewing quality and consumer educa tion.”The organization’s list of this year’s winners included 138 breweries from
better beer,” Metzger said, recalling the state’s former 3.2 percent alcohol law that lawmakers lifted in November 2019.
Potatoes & more at castle valley farms
teenth of an acre to potatoes. This year, they’ve planted 14 acres, which Mayer says will, if all goes well, yield around half-a-million pounds of potatoes.
28 | utahstories.com
FARMSVALLEYCASTLEOFCOURTESYPHOTOS MOAB
Exuberant about tubers!
“The main thing that’s happening here right now is potatoes,” said Tom Mayer, farm manager at Castle Valley Farms. Mayer is exuberant about the tubers: the many varieties, their nutritional value, and growing them organically. In past years, Castle Valley Farms has devoted about one four-
Castle Valley Farms is part of Castle Valley Academy, a 320-acre farm and high school campus established in 1970 in the eponymous town northeast of
One of the volunteers at Castle Valley Farm with a harvest of potatoes.
By Rachel Fixsen
“It’s first and foremost a school,” Mayer said.
in their first year. They gave away the spuds to the Navajo Nation, the Utah Food Bank, and anyone in the community who wanted some. While Bragg advised the Moab Manna project, he also visited Castle Valley Farms and persuaded Mayer that he should grow more potatoes, too.
Mayer first started at Castle Valley as a natural science teacher, and later moved into more farm work. The farm is irrigated with water that flows down from the La Sal Mountains above the valley, and everything is grown organically. Healthful eating is a significant part of Seventh Day Adventist culture — focusing not only on a diet rich in withoutfoodsonfoods,plant-basedunprocessed,whole,butalsogrowingthosenaturallyandchemicals.Thestudentseach have their own garden plot where they can choose what to grow, and the produce is used in the school cafeteria. Students also help with chores like car ing for seedlings in the greenhouse and pruning fruit trees, while learning skills like building, canning, and cooking.
utahstories.com | 29
In addition to potatoes, the farm grows wheat and alfalfa, as well as a va riety of vegetables: tomatoes, peppers, garlic, cucumbers, salad greens and microgreens. They also grow lavender and make their own lavender oil. There are fruit orchards and a bakery. They sell bread at the Moonflower Market
Moab and just a few miles from the Colorado River. The school is rooted in the Seventh Day Adventist faith, and students work on the farm in addition to their regular studies as a way to learn skills, build character, connect to the earth, and grow healthy foods.
Community Cooperative in Moab, at their on-site store, and through their website. Right now Mayer is starting a crop of strawberries in hanging pots in the campus’s half-acre greenhouse.
What’s particularly special about Castle Valley Farms’ potatoes is that they come from organic nuclear stock, which are plant tissues used to grow new crops. Many potatoes labeled as organic, Mayer said, are grown from nuclear stock that’s been sprayed with
The current potato fervor at Castle Valley Farms was sparked by wellknown potato expert Jeff Bragg, who got involved with a Moab Seventh Day Adventist Church project called Moab Manna. When the pandemic first prompted mass shutdowns, the church brainstormed what they could do to relieve the strain on their community. They came up with growing food to buffer against possible food shortages and to help families hurt financially by the 30,000MoabWithcalorie-richastledintoTheyshutdown.gotaccessaplotoflandMoabandsetonpotatoesanutritious,crop.Bragg’shelp,Mannagrewpoundsofpotatoes
“Oh man, they are so good,” Mayer said. “Just buttery.”
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chemicals. Chemicals aren’t used while growing the plants, which means they still qualify as organic, but Mayer said the chemical from the nuclear stock persists in the new potatoes. A grower in Minnesota gave Castle Valley Farms a deal on organic nuclear stock for over 30 heirloom varieties of potatoes.
Market or at the Castle Valley Farms store. People can also order produce on the farm’s website and pick it up in Castle Valley or have it delivered to a drop-off site in Moab.
A lot of the potato crop underway right now will be harvested for seeds to sell to companies like Baker Creek Seeds, one of the largest heirloom seed companies in the country. Actual pota toes will be sold through Moonflower
“It’s going to be busy, that’s for sure!” Mayer said.
“These potatoes are grown for their nutritional value, their shelf life — and the colors! Oh, they’re just beautiful,” Mayer said. He described a few of the varieties the farm put in the ground this year, such as the Harlequin Gold, which has a low glycemic index, mot tled rose-and-yellow skin and yellow flesh. The Huckleberry Gold, which has purple skin and yellow flesh, also has a low glycemic index.
Planting season at Castle Valley Farm against a red rock background.
The farm also has a stand at Moab’s weekly farmer’s market, as well as a food cart where they sell vegan “carrot hot dogs.” Mayer has more dreams for the future: he hopes to have a full-size food truck at the farmer’s market with a wider variety of options, especially potato-based foods like french fries or tater tots. He’d like to build a woodfired pizza oven and have a farm-totable pizza restaurant on the Castle Valley campus. But this season staff may have their hands full just harvest ing, processing and selling the large expected potato crop. They don’t have enough storage space to accommodate the volume of potatoes they anticipate, so they’ll have to be constantly turning them over as they harvest.
The first Mexican restaurant ever opened in Ogden still stands today. The
SUSHITONAOFCOURTESYPHOTO OGDEN
By Angelika Brewer
The Oaks in Ogden Canyon was built as a mountain resort in 1902, which was later relocated further up the canyon. It
G
rabbing a bite to eat in Ogden is an adventure. You can find dishes from all over the world, and in some restaurants, you can even find them all in the sameBeingplace.an incredibly diverse city brings along a bright food selection, and the people of Ogden love it. Ogden has al ways been a melting pot in some regard. Being the junction city, it has always been a common place for people to pass through, stop in, or relocate to. The point at which Ogden’s dining experience evolved from primarily burgers and steaks to the various additions of globally inspired, eclectic food spots you see today, is hard to pinpoint directly, but it is easy to see that the evolution has happened and is still happening.
are long standing steakhouses that have been community staples since their openings. Ogden is in no short supply of American cuisine, however, many dining establishments recognize that in order to keep locals dining in town, there has to be more options.
OGDEN’s food evolution
was a hot seasonal commodity, where you could walk up and order a burger and a shake. As times progressed and tourism increased in the 80’s, new ownership expanded seating at The Oaks, making it a year-round eatery. It closed in 2019, only to be bought again, reopened by popular demand, and then damaged by a wildfire. The Oaks is back again after the fire, and people are glad, which goes to show that Ogdenites stay loyal to their Timberminefavorites.andPrairie Schooner
Tona Sushi
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New diversity for foodies
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You can find establishments serving exclusively ‘Hawaiian, Chinese, Viet namese, Italian, Indian, Korean, Greek, and Mongolian foods as well. While the variety is ever increasing, Greg Evans, a resident of Ogden, says, “I definitely agree there’s been a shift, but I think we still have a way to go.”
LATIMERBRADENBYPHOTO
This brings up the point that the community seemingly enjoys its ex
heavily on ensuring a diverse and communal experience. That, alongside the culture of Ogden City being built on support of local business es, makes it the perfect place to bring a wide variety of restaurants. The people of Ogden want to try new foods or eat things they’ve found elsewhere, and they also want to support the businesses in their communities. By bringing a little bit of everything right to their doorsteps, they will potentially stay in town to dine, visitors will come for the food, and sup porting community businesses is good for the local economy.
Tona Sushi Bar and Grill has won various awards and has consistently made it to recommended dining lists for Ogden’s visitors and tourists.
It isn’t that Ogden doesn’t love a burger and a steak — they just love other things, too.
opening of El Matador was in 1963, and it very quickly gained popularity. Many residents of Ogden are of Hispanic heri tage, which brings a continuous increase to the number of places to get authentic Mexican food. From a sit-in dinner to food trucks and snack shops, there are lots of places to try.
Thai restaurants are on the rise, too. Interestingly, a local favorite, Thai Curry Kitchen, is owned by Steven Ballard, who is also the owner of the popular Mexican restaurant, Sonora Grill.
clusive-to-Ogden places best. Ogden doesn’t want more repeat chain restau rants — they want fresh, new and excit ing. “Quality is still lacking from some establishments, and I think this will improve as the competition increases. I think our community is craving a variety of cuisines, instead of the standard fare,” EvansOgdensays.focuses
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By Ted Scheffler
There isn’t a restaurant in Utah serving more authentic Northern Italian cuisine than Veneto Ristorante Italiano. And one of the treasures there is Filetto di Branzino con Capperi Fritti. It is a deceptive simple dish of a large branzino filet with fried capers, olive oil, and fresh lemon slices. What makes this branzino so special is that the delicate fish gets top billing and a gentle treatment because it isn’t buried under heavy sauce or seasonings. Sometimes
es, Utah is a landlocked state. But even so, there are plenty of places to find fresh and delicious fish and sea food dishes here in the Beehive. Thanks to rapid transportation services, we can enjoy food on our plates that was swimming in an ocean or lake 24 to 48 hours ago — something that was unthinkable 30 years ago. Here are 10 of my favorite restaurant fish and seafood delights to try:At Current Fish & Oyster, there’s a myriad of delectable fish and seafood selections ranging from grilled oysters, seared calamari, char-grilled sea bass and fish stew, to the beautiful chilled
seafood platter and killer crab cakes. However, the Spanish Octopus with heirloom beans, eggplant puree, Mo roccan olives and tomato is a must-try.
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SCHEFFLERTEDBYPHOTO FOOD & DRINK
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10 Fabulous Fish & Seafood Dishes
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Dining on the deck at Bill White’s Grappa restaurant is always a special warm-weather treat. And that’s espe cially true if you’ve had the good sense to order the Lobster Fregola Sarda pasta entree. Fregola pasta is similar to Isreali couscous, and that’s the basis of this delightful seafood dish. Incorporated into the fregola and spicy seafood broth is Maine lobster tail, black mussels, cal amari, wild shrimp, and chorizo, with a grilled baguette for dipping.
less is Theremore.are few places I’d rather be on a sunny day than on the deck at Deer Valley Resort’s Royal Street Cafe. While sipping an award-winning cocktail like the Blueberry Mojito, I recommend giving the Vietnamese-style Banh Mi sandwich a go. It’s a seafaring sandwich with crispy soft shell blue crab, pickled daikon and carrot, bean sprouts, red bell pepper, cucumber, fresh herbs like cilantro, mint and basil, with house made Deer Valley sriracha aioli on a banh mi baguette with Royal Street fries.And
However, don’t get the notion that I always have to have my fish fancy. For example, I love the Cod Stewart fish sandwich at CodSpeed, which is located at HallPass in The Gateway. It’s a fully stacked sandwich of beer-battered fish on a fresh brioche bun with tartar sauce, pickles, cilantro-jalapeño slaw, tomato, spicy mayo, and even potato chips layered for added crunch. Be sure to include a side of Seashore Fries with your killer Cod Stewart sammich.
Maybe Kaysville isn’t the first destination you’d think of for fresh seafood, but at Nikko Sushi & Ramen, that’s precisely what you’ll find. One of the best menu items Nikko offers is their Hamachi Jalapeño appetizer. It’s a bowl filled with generous pieces of delicate, almost ethereal, hamachi sashimi served with julienned daikon, thin slices of fresh jalapeño, and drizzled with a heavenly yuzu-miso sauce.
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der and tasty shrimp, Caffe Molise pulls out all the stops with its glorious Gam beretti Salad. It is a large plate filled to the brim with mixed greens and seasonal fruit (strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries), yellow and red cherry tomatoes, artichoke hearts, red onion, Feta cheese, and strewn with plump grilled Gulf shrimp. It’s simply a sensational salad.
while we’re in Park City, Chef Matt Harris and his crew at Tupelo cook up Roasted Idaho Trout with avocado, cucumbers, capers, dill, and a chili dressing, as well as another seafood favorite: Seared Diver Scallops with summer squash, locally-foraged mushrooms and roasted tomato butter.
And while we’re on the topic of ten-
Up in Millcreek Canyon, Chef Dave Jones knocks my socks off at Log Ha ven with his stunningly good Risotto dish. It’s a generous portion of perfectly cooked, creamy risotto rice in a silky lemon tomato-butter sauce with loads of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, tender grilled shrimp, asparagus, and a splash of extra virgin olive oil.
True tuna lovers need to make their way to Layton to dine at the beautiful Blue Fin Sushi restaurant. When you do, be sure to order the Ocean Roll. It’s a wonderful maki-style roll cut into four large pieces: otoro tuna, maguro tuna, and snow crab with masago on top, garnished with sriracha and wasabi mayo. This is superb sushi.
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CASECHRISTINEKELLIBYPHOTOS
By Kelli Christine Case
“Being of service really flips the script for these women,” says Green Phoenix Farm Director, James Loomis. “When you find yourself in poverty, always on the receiving end of everyone else’s generosity, you tend to have a story of yourself as a perpetual beggar, which can be crippling to your self-worth. These women are providing food and plants for thousands of peo ple, and it rewrites the story so they’re the ones Startedgiving.”in2016, the Green Phoenix Farm is a 1.38 acre urban farm located in west downtown Salt Lake City, and an integral part of the Wasatch Com-
Green Team members posing for a photo at the Green Phoenix Farm. From left to right their initals are: M, P, J, and L.
GREEN PHOENIX FARM
munity Gardens network. Aside from being a fully functioning certified organic urban farm, the Green Phoenix Farm offers a job training program providing employment, mentorship, and advocacy for women facing homelessness. The women in the program, comprising the Green Team, work on the farm five days a week for 10-months under the leadership of JamesLeveragingLoomisthe naturally therapeutic environment of a garden, the job train ing program supports women in crisis to recover an internal state of calm and groundedness as they work each day.
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I asked Green Team alumni, Teressa McCord, about the highlight of her time on the Green Team: “The atmo sphere of the farm and the support that they give you. Working on the farm gave me the confidence to make the positive choices I needed to make to change the situation I was in. I have a full-time job now. I’m nearly self-suffi cient. I’m doing really well.”
Throughout the farm season, the women rediscover a sense of personal power and a boost ed feeling of self-worth. As the program progresses, they work with mentors and advocates to set goals and create an action plan to become housed and into long-term employment by the time they graduate from the program.
Nearly 60 women have graduated from the program since its inception, with around 75-80% of graduates obtaining jobs and housing upon com pleting the program. And they continue to be housed and employed over time. That kind of success is not only stagger ing and impressive—it’s a meaningful solution to homelessness, which Salt Lake City desperately needs.
Program Director, JamesadjustingLoomis,the drip irrigation system at the PhoenixGreenFarm.
ensuring they have the tools, skills, con fidence, self-esteem, and inner sense of empowerment to reliably show up for themselves and their future.
After completing the program, alumni are invited back to the farm for monthly lunches and annual ‘Farmily Dinners’. They’re also invited to become mentors to current Green Team members. Program leaders actively stay in touch with graduates to ensure their lasting success, knowing that it’s not about slapping people into housing or getting them a quick paycheck, but plugging them into a network and
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And when asked what she wants peo ple to know about the Green Phoenix Farm, “More than anything, we’re a ‘farmily’, Teressa says. “The people who work there are some of the strongest women I’ve met.”
James concluded our chat with this sentiment: “Sometimes I get more credit than I should. The success of this farm and this program belongs to the women who make up the Green Team. I feel honored to be a part of this thing alongside them. They inspire me every day with their hard work.”
Green Team member, LaMoon, posing for a photo at the nd of her shift at the Green Phoenix Farm.
n February earlier this year, Nathan Abbot, representing Galloway US, submitted a conditional use proposal to the SLC Planning Commision to build a Kum & Go convenience store and gas station on the parcel adjacent to the Sego Lily Plaza and the Draw at Sugar House Park (2111 South 1300 East). If the proposal is approved, it is assumed that the property owner, Romney Farr, will lease or sell the property to the Kum & Go Corporation for develop ment.For those who aren’t familiar, the Draw at Sugar House is both an art in stallation and a corridor for pedestrians and cyclists connecting Hidden Hollow and the business district to Sugar House
Sugar house corner gas station proposal
Former Sizzler site embroiled in controversy
Some Sugar House residents hope that preserving the integrity of the dam will be of utmost importance to the leaders of the Sugar House Park Au thority, which is jointly governed and funded by Salt Lake City and Salt Lake County. Building a gas station would involve digging to install several under-
Park. Of equal or greater significance, it doubles as a spillway and highly-en gineered earthen dam for flood water from Parley’s Creek. The public art installation, entitled ‘Sego Lily’ (also known as Sego Lily Plaza), was designed by world-renowned environmen tal artist Patricia Johanson, and was constructed on top of the earthen dam, ‘Draw at Sugar House’.
By Kelli Case
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I
MARKOSIANRICHARDBYPHOTO SUGAR HOUSE
ground gas tanks, which are known to leak. And a leak would contaminate and degrade the water quality in Parley’s Creek as well as the downstream water shed the creek runs into.
Parley’sPark.”Trail board member, Lynne Olson, said, “Incorporating the corner lot into the park would honor the beautiful legacy of the people who decided the lot should become a special public park — the largest park in the area — after removing the prison.” Sugar House Park was developed in 1957 after the old State Prison, which formerly occupied that lot, was moved to the point of the mountain.LynneOlson, who is also a Sugar House resident, said, “There’s so much more at stake than additional green space. It’s about protecting the earth en dam and cherishing the beautiful environmental art. Few people grasp that the dam is an incredibly significant and important piece of public art and necessary infrastructure. The engineers and designers were brilliant. If you go around digging up the soil behind that earthen dam, it’s just common sense that’s a dumb thing to do.”
Sugarresponse.Houseresidents engaged on this issue want concerned Utah Stories readers to make phone calls to both the Salt Lake City and Salt Lake County Mayor’s offices letting them know the property should be incorporated into Sugar House Park and to preserve the integrity of the dam by not approving the gas station proposal. Below are links to contact their offices.
There has not been a public update since the call for public comment in March. Many Sugar House residents are wondering what is happening, partic ularly if the developer has progressed their plans. If changes are made to the conditional use proposal, they hope they will be publicized so there can be a public
utahstories.com | 45
Beyond protecting the dam and the purity of the water in Parley’s Creek, many residents are concerned that the Sego Lily art installation will be adequately protected as well. The artist and designer of ‘Sego Lily’, Patricia Johanson, wrote, “I would hate to see a gas station overlooking the ‘Sego Lily.’ It would be disruptive with cars and trucks pulling in and out all day and all night, and disturb the tranquility of the current scene. The [former] Sizzler site really should become part of Sugar House
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Green River Melon Days. This annual event is celebrating 116 years of the town’s famous melons and their growers. Held at the O.K. Anderson Park, 1000 Solomon Street, Green River. The festival begins at 12pm on September 16.
Sandy City Horse Parade. Held starting at 9am at 70 E 8760 S, Sandy. After the parde the Sandy City Heritage Festival will be held at the Historic Main Street Park, 90 E 8720 S from 11am to 2pm. This is a free family event and all are invited.
September Activities
Wags to Wishes Gala at the Cleone Peterson Eccles Alumni House, 155 Central Campus Dr. The Humane Society of Utah is sponsoring this event to celebrate their lifesaving mission and programs. A VIP Puppy Lounge, reception hour, games, an executive terrace bar, dinner, classical music and more will be featured. The event runs from 6pm to 9pm and tickets can be purchased at www.utahhumane.org/how-to-help/gala.
Festa Italiana at The Gateway. Founded by members of the Italian American Civic League, this two day festival features Italian entertainment, food booths from regions of Italian cuisine, Italian beer and wine garden, arts & crafts, historical displays, bocce tournament, live rafflets, Italian cars, street performers and more. The Gateway is located at 18 North Rio Grande Street. The festival will run from 12 to 10pm on Saturday, and 12 to 7pm on Sunday. Proceeds will support local and national non-profit charitable organizations supported by the Italian-American Civic League of Utah.
September 10
Ogden Harvest Moon Celebration. Harvest Moon is presented by the Ogden Downtown Alliance at Ogden’s Historic 25th Street. Celebrate th;e; end of summer from noon to 8pm for community activities, vendors, food, drinks, live music and more.
FanX Salt Lake Pop Culture & Comic Convention. FanX returns with new celebrity guests, cosplay, merchandise, games, and more for one of Salt Lake’s biggest parties. Thursday hours at 1pm (For VIP and Early Access) to 9pm, Friday 10am to 9pm, and Saturday 9:30am to 9pm. Go to the FanX website to purchase tickets in advance.
September 10
September 16-17
September 24
September 17-18
September
September 22-24
Avenues Street Fair. This annual neighborhood event will be held on 2nd Avenue between F and L Streets. The Fair will run from 9am to 6pm starting off with a children’s parade. Kids, families, grandparents, and pets are all welcome and costumes are encouraged. Meet at 2nd Avenue and L Street at 8:45am to join the parde.
