Warsaw Insider # 184 December 2011

Christmas Food page 24

Shop Top Mokotowska Strolls page 16

page 18

Warsaw’s Top Restaurants

page 9

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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MERRY HUNTING!

HUNT WITH US FOR A PE ERFEECT GIFFT SEARCH FOR INSPIRATION ON WWW.ZLOTETARASY.PL ZŁOTE TARASY SHOPPING CENTER, ZŁOTA ST 59, 00-120 WARSAW, INFORMATION POINT: 022 222 22 00 OPEN FROM MONDAY TO SATURDAY 9 AM TO 10 PM, SUNDAY 9 AM TO 9 PM, 24 H PARKING

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DECEMBER 2011

A Personal Best

PHOTOGRAPH TOP KEVIN DEMARIA. BOTTOM FROM LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA, COURTESY OF LA ROTISSERIE, PIOTR JAGIEŁŁO

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f I collected one złoty for every time someone asked me for my favorite restaurant I’d probably be retired – swigging neon cocktails with a selection of Baywatch extras. Alas, that’s not going to happen soon. Firstly, I forget to charge for my advice, secondly, because of issues like this. This month it’s the turn of our annual Best of Warsaw edition, the culinary equivalent of the Academy Awards, and your definitive guide to what’s hot and what’s even hotter.

And what a pleasure it was compiling it; one thing I couldn’t help but notice was just how far Warsaw has come since I first arrived with my knapsack and notebook in 2000AD. In those times sushi was a rare, erotic sight and any dish bez cabbage was viewed with suspicion. OK, so it wasn’t that bad, but I hope you get my point – that the Warsaw of now is swimming in choice.

In previous years, I get the feeling that some of our nominees were there to make up numbers. This time round, being nominated alone can be viewed as an honor. Heck, when a place of the caliber of Butchery & Wine walks away empty-handed, you know you’ve got a culinary scene that’s there to be reckoned. Anyway, that wasn’t down to me, but down to independent panels carefully selected for their expert knowledge.

They did a great job, but if you asked for my favorites (that’ll be one złoty in the post, please) then the list would go thus: Butchery as newcomer, 12 Stolików for design, Beirut for cafe and the Westin for brunch. I’d also create imaginary awards to celebrate my traditional old faves – Tort. Factory, Kwadrat, Chłodna etc. And rather than a handshake and a certificate, I’d dip into the bank vault and donate enough gold to ensure they always prospered – not that they need my help. As the results of our BOW show, the people of Warsaw are educated in quality.

Anyway, merry Christmas etc., and see you in Jan.

Alex Webber

awebber@valkea.com

Insider’s TOP 3 Malaysian-born Kit F. Chung relocated to Warsaw in 2001 with Polish writer Martin Bruczkowski for the long haul.

A decade on, she continues to delight in discovering the old facets of the capital as it morphs new angles and personalities. Kit contributes regularly to local and international publications.

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Toan Pho ul. Chmielna 5/7 Any entry on the list of Top Most Liveable Cities should have an authentic pho joint. Making Warsaw very liveable for cosmopolitan stomachs is Toan Pho. At this no frills self-service operation, Asians of all nationalities converge to nurse their hunger pangs for soupy noodles.

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La Rotisserie Mamaison Hotel Le Regina, ul. Kościelna 12 I would do this every day if I had an arm and a leg to spare. Dining here is akin to having your personal Jeeves: switch off your decision-making module and let the crew roll out a house-style that is always elegant but never obnoxious.

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Sala Kongresowa Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 Goran Bregović, who is very particular about where he stages his music, performed at this venue when he was in Warsaw. Cosy, with a capacity of under 3,000, yet replete with commie-era pomp and circumstance, concerts here come with a trip back in time.

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what’s inside:

DECEMBER 2011 LISTINGS

Arts and Entertainment

03 Insider’s Pick Recycle Festival 05 Calendar Music, art and happenings around town 07 Museums Top cultural institutes 08 Insider’s Pick Goshka Macuga 08 The Screening Room Film openings

18 FEATURES

COLUMNS

09 B est of Warsaw Warsaw’s top restaurants revealed inside 16

The Best Shopping Street in Warsaw From salt galleries to chichi jewelry, the unique boutique shopping of ul. Mokotowska is revealed

18 B est of Strolling the Neighbourhood Highlights from this year’s Strolling series 24 Xmas Food Christmas dishes: the scary and the delicious

Editor-in-chief

Art Director

Editor

Editorial Intern

Publisher Advertising Manager Advertising Manager Distribution Manager

01 T he Editor Writes Opening words from our editor-in-chief, as well as personal Top 3 from writer Kit F. Chung 22 Relics of the PRL A carp’s life in the PRL 23 Mum’s The Word Mummy, there’s a reindeer on our balcony!

54 NIght Owl Profile What is electrodisco wonkpop? DJ Neil Milton answers all...

80 Book Excerpt A chapter from the 3rd edition of Laura Klos Sokol’s book Shortcuts to Poland

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Agnieszka Jęksa ajeksa@valkea.com Karolina Kalinowska Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Karol Kosiorek kkosiorek@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@wbj.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Bartosz Bajerski Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung David Ingham Michał Miszkurka Anna J. Kutor Paula Rewald Laura Klos Sokol Agnieszka Le Nart

Eating Out

25 Insider’s Pick 12 Stolików 36 Hot Find Natara 53 Gift Idea la Fromagerie

Going Out

55 Insider’s Pick Tektura

Till You Drop

61 Insider’s Pick Reykjavik District

Lifestyle

65 Insider’s Pick Dental Excellence 77 Classifieds 78 Warsaw Map and Street Index

Christian Swindells Alice Trudelle Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2011 Warsaw Insider.

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COVER ILLUSTRATION MICHAŁ MISZKURKA, PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT Museums, Galleries, Concerts & Events

Insider’s Pick

9 FRI-11 SUN Festival 6th International Recycling Festival Preserves

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uying in H&M and Zara doesn’t seem sexy when everyone in the street wears the same stuff. We prefer hanging around in the dodgy surroundings of Chłodna 25 than licking the sugary snobbery of Nowy Świat. And December is a great occasion to say no to the mainstream once more and to dip in the Rive Droite of Warsaw - our favourite district of Praga! This time the reason is the Recycling Festival Preserves. And don’t think it’s all about gathering trash from the surrounding yards, risking bloody interaction with the local alcoholics.

The idea behind the whole story is, according to the organizers, to discuss, “the social function of design, as it should be more involved in the worldwide issues and in our personal problems.”

Above: Last year’s winner by Robert Pludra and Jakub Sobiepanek However you choose to define it, it’s an ephemeral event that gathers artists and creative people from all over Europe in order to showcase design pieces produced using recycled material forgotten by factories and individuals. All sort of things are welcomed: old fabrics, retro AGD, cables, sport equipment etc. Some of the artists order the materials needed before their arrival, others just confess the maxim: Veni, Vidi, Recycli.

This year’s theme asks “What can design do for you?” and visitors can catch the work of the Cascoland group, Tejo Remy & René Veenhuizen (Droog Design), Be-Studio and many others as they attempt to answer this tricky question with action. And with Christmas peering around the corner, it’s worth mentioning that these unique pieces of design are all up for sale. (AJ) Soho Factory ul. Mińska 25, www.przetworydesign.com

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EVENT CALENDAR >>

2 FRI Festival Electronic Beats Festival Warsaw 2011 Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25, www.electronicbeats.net After Bucharest, Bratislava, and Zagreb, Warsaw is the next city to benefit from the Electronic Beats vibe. Featuring on the line-up are Zola Jesus, The Drums, Wiley and Groove Armada.

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ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS

Music show Notre Dame PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl The story of the Notre Dame bell-ringer Quasimodo and his girlfriend Esmeralda is as old as the cathedral itself. The musical adaptation will be sung by Polish artists, with the tunes written by Luca Plamondona and Richarda Cocciante.

cream and Orson Welles as their influences, electronic duo the Junior Boys land in Poland for the third time.

Concert Jill Scott PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl Ranked alongside Erykah Badu and Angie Stone, songstress Jill Scott has three Grammy awards sitting on her bedside table.

your pick from the oodles of cool, hipster gifts.

Festival

4 SUN Concert Metronomy Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl Metronomy’s front man Joseph Mount decided to start his own band after seeing most of the bands he played drums in being torn apart by scheming girlfriends. So far, so good.

We like it!

Concert Junior Boys Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl Citing Shanghai, banana ice

Warsaw sounds Heavily Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A, www.klubproxima.com.pl Touted as the first extreme music festival in Poland. An exhibition and CD fair will accompany performances by bands like Chain Reaction, Kabanos, Dragon’s Eye and many more besides.

Design Fair Santa Claus Day Handmade (Mikołajki Handmade) 1500m2 do wynajęcia, Solec 18, www.1500m2.com Mikołajki is traditionally held on December 6th, and is a preChristmas festival where small gifts are exchanged between the near and the dear. This year, for gift ideas, why not browse over 15,000 works by Polish designers.

If you’re not in the mood for strolling the malls, pop into the post-industrial interiors of this former printing house, and take

11 SUN Concert Glenn Miller Orchestra PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl During one concert the trumpet player injured himself, with the clarinet player stepping into the breech as emergency cover; that’s how the characteristic sound of the most desired swing band emerged. Check it out yourself at the Palace of Culture.

14 THU Rock Opera Krzyżacy PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl

>>

Zniewalające dźwięki saksofonu

MARCIN NOWAKOWSKI 6KLQH Nowa płyta

dla ciebie i twojej rodziny

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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT >> The inspiration behind this rock opera was Jesus Christ Superstar and We Will Rock You.

17 SAT Ballet Moscow City Ballet PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl This time round Russia’s premier ballet troupe perform Romeo and Juliet, Swan Lake and The Nutcracker.

16 FRI Harlem Gospel Choir PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl The only choir with its own designated day – January 15th is the annual Day of the Harlem Gospel Choir. Angels from Harlem, as they’re known, promise to electrify Warsaw with their gospel tunes.

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Nativity Sets

A daunting challenge for the kids: counting all the Nativity sets in Warsaw… soon enough they’ll lose track, for every year each church sets up its own. Find the most impressive in the Old Town, even one with live animals (across from ul. Długa 13/15) or intricate mechanized dolls (nearby, on ul. Miodowa 13). As Christmas approaches, Varsovians gather en masse to admire these works of art, so do expect to wait in line to view some of the better efforts.

Warsaw Christmas Gathering Pl. Teatralny

Concert

CHRISTMAS IN WARSAW

If the weather outsider isn’t too frightful, and the fire not more delightful, then come gather with other Warsaw natives at Pl. Teatralny. For the eighth consecutive year, there’ll be Santa, workshops for kids, carols, festive food and live music.

22 THU Concert Monstrerrat Caballè PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl Her first performance, back in 1965 in Carnegie Hall, received an ovation for twenty minutes.

Regarded as one of the top sopranists in the world, this promises to be one concert you can’t afford to miss.

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The Nutcracker Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, www.teatrwielki.pl

Almost a Christmas staple, this classic ballet is a family must. This year the story takes place in the old Warsaw of E.T.A. Hofmann’s (the author of the tale) days, re-enacted by dancers from the Polish National Ballet.

Tickets: from zł. 90 Christmas Market Old Town Square

Vienna has one, Paris has a few and so Warsaw celebrates the season with its own Christmas Market too. Enjoy mulled wine and gingerbread while browsing the stalls for unique handmade gifts and souvenirs.

EVENT CALENDAR/MUSEUMS museums & galleries Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place.

Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recycable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. Galeria BZZZ, designed for children aged up to six, is a must for families, and also ‘The Heavens of Copernicus’, a state-of-the-art planetarium.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Flor Garduno, for instance). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. December 2nd – January 29th Enclave (Enklawa) illustrates how Kaliningrad in Russia has evolved from living proof of Soviet demagogy into a city leaving its past behind and searching for a new identity.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw

Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to peronalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them his pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. December 2nd – January 1st 2012 Chopin 2010 Post Scriptum A summary of the Chopin year held in 2010, as well as an exhibition of Chopin-inspired graphic art.

assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis.

Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site.

Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Of interest, a brilliant interactive display of wartime Warsaw.

Ongoing: And life would have to go on. Women in Ravensbrück concentration camp.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight).

Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Ongoing: an exhibition titled Legia on the Continent and a display of letters written to Kazimierz Deyna by his fans.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

December 8th – January 31st 2012 The point of view of Rambow Günter Rambow is one the top poster artists in the world; politically involved, his subject matter includes the Vietnam war and the revival of fascism in his home country Germany.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison

The State Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw ul. Kredytowa 1,

Insider’s Pick Goshka Macuga Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl

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oshka Macuga is not the first Polish artist to be appreciated more abroad than back in her homeland. This distinction also applies to some other remarkable artists, such as Ewa Kuryluk, Magdalena Abakanowicz and Igor Mitoraj.

It is no suprise that her exhibition in Zachęta, prepared Deutsches Volk - deutsche Arbeit (2008) specially for the gallery, is actually her first solo exhibition in Poland.

Macuga’s method of work is called “culture archaeology”, as she sources her creations from archives and cultural texts related to the history of the institution, maneuvering between a variety of different styles and techniques. Her Zachęta project touches on the subject of censorship in Polish art after 1989, giving an over view of numerous of attacks on objects of art, artists, curators and directors.

So, just what motivates people to vandalise objects of art? And what was Daniel Olbrychski doing with a sword inside the Zachęta anyway? Check Macuga’s exhibition to view her answer.

ethnomuseum.website.pl Established in 1888 the 76,000 strong collection here is not the dull ensemble you may anticipate: just check the utterly bizarre straw costumes for proof.

Polish folk costume, glassware, paintings and even Easter eggs feature prominently, but so do other countries.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.

Ongoing: 60 years of the FSO (Passenger Cars Factory) and an exhibition of ‘microminiatures’ (sic!).

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl Ongoing: Partners. Photographer and artist around 1970 year - an exhibition telling the story of 9 meetings between photographers and artists, often friends and lovers at the same time. Also Ryan Gander’s three meter installation in Plac Defilad: Really shiny things that >> don’t mean anything.

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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT >> Zachęta National Art Gallery (Zachęta Narodowa Galeria Sztuki) pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

The Insider’s Pick for this month is Goshka Macuga’s exhibition.

From December 10th, check out a sociological project entitled No, no, no, I hardly ever miss a show, which aims to create a profile of the gallery audience.

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too often for our liking, so check individual websites for the latest story.

Note that most will choose Monday to close, and that many hold ‘visitor days’ once a week whereby admission prices are waived.

MASSAGE & BEAUTY TREATMENTS DAY SPA WE TAKE CARE OF YOUR BODY Take a break in the heart of the city relax in an oriental atmosphere

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screening room

opening this month:

2nd

15th

MEDIA PATRONAGE

Sherlock Holmes: A Game of Shadows Action. USA. Dir. Guy Ritchie,with Robert Downey Jr., Jude Law

Les Femmes du 6eme étage Comedy. France. Dir. Phillipe Le Guay, with Fabrice Luchini, Sandrine Kiberlain

23rd Machine Gun Preacher Action. USA. Dir. Marc Forster, with Gerard Butler, Michelle Monaghan

Mission: Impossible Ghost Protocol (Mission: Impossible 4) Action. USA. Dir. Brad Bird, with Tom Cruise, Jeremy Renner

9th Moneyball Drama. USA. Dir. Bennett Miller, with Brad Pitt, Jonah Hill The Extra Man (Chłopak do towarszystwa) Comedy. France, USA. Dir. Shari Springer Berman, with Paul Dano, Kevin Kline, Katie Holmes

Give us a call or email us: tel. +48 (0) 22 435 9336

kontakt@ oasisspa.pl www.oasisspa.pl

Królewska 2 st. (corner of Krakowskie, near Bristol Hotel) Open: Mon-Sat 10:00- 21:00

10% DisCOUnT WiTh This AD

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We Bought a Zoo (Kupiliśmy Zoo) Comedy. Dir. Cameron Crowe, with Matt Damon, Scarlett Johansson, Elle Fanning

8 THU Festival 11th International Watch Docs Festival Human Rights in Film, various locations, www.watchdocs.pl Watch Docs is the second biggest event in the world promoting human rights in film. With 100 movies shown every year, it’s worth mentioning that Errol Morris, Raymond Depardon, Kim Longinotto, Avi Mograbi and Alex Gibney had their premieres during the festival.

Till December 18th.

PLUS:

THE BEST SHOPPING STREET IN WARSAW

Business Venue Newcomer Kid Friendly Venue Address to Impress For a First Date Cocktails Gourmet Grocery CafĂŠ Culture Restaurant Design Sunday Brunch People Watching Community Service

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THE BEST OF STROLLING THE NEIGHBORHOOD

Ladies and Gentlemen, the votes are cast and the red carpet is out. Without any further ceremony, we're proud to present the eighth annual edition of the Best of Warsaw. Drum roll please...

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BEST BUSINESS VENUE (voted by the BPCC)

Belvedere

OTHER NOMINEES 99 Al. Jana Pawła II 23, www.restaurant99. com Butchery & Wine ul. Żurawia 22, www. butcheryandwine.pl Joseph’s ul. Duchnicka 3, www.josephswineandfood.pl Mielżyński ul. Burakowska 5/7, www.mielzynski.pl Sakana Various locations, www.sakana. pl San Lorenzo Al. Jana Pawła II 36, www. sanlorenzo.pl

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BEST NEWCOMER (voted on facebook.com/warsawinsider)

Charlotte

Pl. Zbawiciela, www.bistrocharlotte.com Less than a year ago, this was the locale of a not too appetising and stinky fishmonger shop. Now refitted as a boulangerie-café with a wine bar gig, Charlotte feels like it has always been here. It feels like it belongs to Pl. Zbawiciela. The old floor tiles, retro ceiling fans and lamps gel perfectly with the sturdy, long communal table that reminds of a French country kitchen.

Outside, the graffiti on the colonnades throws in a sense of edgy grandeur.

Meanwhile, the customers seem to have coordinated their attire and attitude to give Charlotte an air of innocuous snootiness.

It is already the haunt for exhibitionists and voyeurs alike. Of course, while the location, design and people factor help, Charlotte would have fizzled out without solid stuffing. The baguette and country-style loaves from the onsite bakery taste as good as they look. Your breadbasket comes with a jar of all-you-can-eat chocolate paste and more solid bites come in form of eggy breakfast sets and warm snacks. There are more good things to come as Charlotte has finally beefed up its wine list.

Despite the recurrent complaints about the slow service, on the whole the staff is amicably attitude-free. In fact, all the signs are there that Charlotte has the staying power to outlast transient moods, and the fact that it won by a landslide vote – in spite of the huge names it was up against – install this place as a hot favorite to be winning awards for years to come. (KC)

OTHER NOMINEES Butchery & Wine ul. Żurawia 22, www.butcheryandwine.pl Beirut ul. Poznańska 12 Flaming & Co ul. Mokotowska 28, flaming-co.pl Joseph's Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, www.josephswineandfood.pl Na Zielnej ul. Zielna 37, www.nazielnej.pl Nowa Kuznia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, www.nowakuznia.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

ul. Agrykoli 1, www.belvedere.com.pl Picture this: the CEO is in town and the evening meal is left in your hands.

There’s no room for error, and the last thing you need is a clattering waiter or a rogue cut of beef. Well, promotion awaits with a trip down the Belvedere.

A venue of some distinction, this former orangery stares out across the immaculate lawns of Łazienki, with plant-heavy interiors adding an ethereal quality that improves with the food. Mixing up elements of fusion with molecular, and the orient with Polish, Adam Komar’s menu is both innovative and historic. (AW)

BEST KID FRIENDLY VENUE (voted by The British School)

Nowa Kuźnia

ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, www.nowakuznia.pl Be warned: once your little tykes have been to this place, it’s unlikely they will settle for any other eating out venues. Nowa Kuźnia does not do kid-friendly on a small scale; they do it on a scale where big is spelled out in capital letters, bolded and then underlined. In the seasonal garden, a marquee with the capacity for 80 guests is designated for parents and their brood. The sandpit is spacious enough to fit in a kindergarten class, while spades and pails aside, there’s a kid-sized bulldozer that makes you wish you were a munchkin again.

For the colder months, the play area has moved indoors to a carpeted corner in the winter garden – and no worries that the juniors might smash up the fixtures because the furniture here is sturdy and made to withstand boisterous energy.

But all the props would amount to zero if the crew behind it all were unhappy to see you. So how about this: at weekends, professional entertainers are called in on duty to amuse and mind the mob so that the mummies and daddies can switch off their parental mode and enjoy an uninterrupted meal. And speaking of nutrition, isn't it galling when a restaurant’s children’s menu consists of cheap tricks like fish fingers and fries? Parents revert to such easy peasy fare at home when they need time off; but restaurants aren’t supposed to take time-out on kids’ nourishment. Which is where Nowa Kuźnia really hit a home run. This place gives the kids more to bite on, like meatballs in dill sauce with carrot salad: it's healthy, delicious and one more reason why Nowa Kuźnia have already become a firmly established family fave. (KC)

BEST ADDRESS TO IMPRESS (voted by the Złote Klucze Concierge Association)

Na Zielnej

ul. Zielna 37, www.nazielnej.pl Walk into Na Zielnej and it’s easy to see why the concierges of Warsaw voted this is as their ‘address to impress’. Found in Warsaw’s first high-rise skyscraper, what was a former telephone exchange has been transformed into a five star affair.

To the right of the lobby lies the bistro, a classic ice white space interspersed with some industrial elements. On the other side lies the more formal restaurant, a two-room haunt decorated with brushed bricks, stripped wood flooring and violet dashes. Cooking becomes art here, with dishes incorporating premium produce carefully sourced from regional Poland: fish from the lake district, pork from Złotnicka White pigs, and beef from Polish Red Cattle.

No surprise then to find Na Zielnej scooping this award then; in fact, the only surprise is it didn’t earn more – it certainly came close. (CS) OTHER NOMINEES Amber Room Al. Ujazdowskie 13, www.kprb.pl Belvedere ul. Agrykoli 1, www.belvedere. com.pl Biała Gęś ul. Blewederska 18A, www.bialages.pl Butchery & Wine ul. Żurawia 22, www.butcheryandwine.pl Porto Praga ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, www.portopraga.pl Różana ul. Chocimska 7, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl U Kucharzy ul. Ossolińskich 7, www. gessler.pl Valadier ul. Łowicka 37, www.valadier.pl

OTHER NOMINEES Figa z Makiem ul. Walecznych 64, figazmakiem.edu.pl Flaming & Co ul. Mokotowska 28, flaming-co.pl Kredkafe Al. Wyzwolenia 14, www.kredkafe.pl Kolonia 2005 ul. Łęczycka, www.koloniaochota.pl Uwolnić Matkę ul. Dąbrowiecka 8D, uwolnicmatke.blogspot.com

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BEST FOR A FIRST DATE (voted on facebook.com/warsawinsider)

Qchnia Artystyczna

Zamek Ujazdowki, Al. Jazdów 2, www.qchnia.pl Qchnia Artystyczna is part of the intricate story of Poland’s fine-dining dynasty, the Gesslers. It belongs to Marta, the first wife of Piotr Gessler, who later married Magda, arguably Poland’s best-known restaurateur today. After many publicized squabbles, each went their own way, but in contrast to the Polishinspired cuisine and lavish décor of Magda’s multiple restaurants, Marta’s single venue serves elegant international cuisine in a minimalist setting.

Crowned every year since 2007 by France's prestigious guide Michelin as a hot dining spot in the capital, it is also a favorite among Warsaw’s bohemianchic crowd. The hipster ambiance might be a bit much for some, but I found it was more than compensated by the simple yet sophisticated charm of the venue and menu.

Cozy in the luminous décor and relishing the spectacular view on the castle’s 17th Century park, I savored my scallops with cauliflower couscous, white chocolate and butter sauce, while my better – and more adventurous – half dug into his veal sweetbreads on crispy potato pancakes with champignon sauce.

Both were made of excellent quality ingredients, beautifully presented, and perfectly done. For dessert we both picked mouth-watering chocolate fondant with pear mousse and were pleased with the quality of the espresso and the refinement of the ginger-apple tea. With its dream location, QA is without a doubt one of the capital’s best terraces. But by a gray winter afternoon, we discovered it’s also a great part of a cozy winter day spent between say, a romantic walk in Ujazdowki park and an outing at the CSW, conveniently located next door in the castle. (AT)

HONORARY AWARD FOR WORK IN THE COMMUNITY

OTHER NOMINEES Delizia ul.Hoża 58/60, www.delizia.com.pl Opasły Tom ul. Foksal 17, www.kregliccy.pl Mielżyński ul. Burakowska 5/7, www.mielzynski.pl Pędzący Królik ul. Moliera 8, www.pedzacykrolik.com Rozbrat 20 ul. Rozbrat 20, www.rozbrat 20.pl

www.irishball.pl It’s possible you’re unfamiliar with FISP - better known as the organizers of the annual Irish Ball, this foundation has, to date, raised and dispersed over three million złotys to a variety of domestic charities, while at the same time emerging as Poland’s highest profile expat fundraiser. According to Niall Leonard, one of five Irishmen on the committee, “it’s a way for successful Irish businessmen to give something back to the community they love, and while the charity itself raises a tremendous amount of money, it also provides a great opportunity for both the Polish and Irish communities to work closer together.” Backed by strong support from their corporate donors and sponsors, the tireless work of FISP serves as an inspiration to all. (AW)

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

Fundacja im. Św. Patryka (FISP)

BEST COCKTAILS (voted by the Professionals in Warsaw)

Sense

ul. Nowy Świat 19, www.sensecafe.com Sense has again been voted by people who know about these things as Warsaw’s best choice for cocktails. We popped along to check exactly how good the best have become.

Settling in at the bar and admiring the design, we started off with a couple of standards: a Bloody Mary and a Mojito, drinks any bar worth its salt should make decently but ones often badly butchered in this city. But not at Sense! The carefully rolled Bloody Mary was precisely spiced and served with a dash of red wine and fresh orange juice: spot on.

Partner’s Mojito was superb: the mint hadn’t been over-crushed (it’s bitter when over crushed). Next up we asked barman extraordinaire Arnie to make us a couple of his latest concoctions. The Bunch of Flowers gets its name from the violet, jasmine and elderflower which combine with smashed orange and lemon juice (and orange and lemon vodkas) to make a hugely refreshing drink that’ll be highly dangerous come summertime. Sensual Tea is also floral: elderflowers and rose syrup mixed with jasmine green tea and vodka, giving tea on the nose, apple on the mouth and flowers on the finish; highly recommended.

Drinking on empty stomachs is always dangerous but there’s no excuse for that here. The Delta Blue remains one of the best steaks in town and the noodles are also excellent. We rounded off our meal with two of Sense’s signature drinks: infused vodka. The ginger rose is as divine as ever and the chilli still the hottest drink in town.

Ignore the bitter and jealous who mutter that Sense is ‘past it’, Sense is nothing short of excellent and a very deserving recipient of this title. (CS)

OTHER NOMINEES Hard Rock Café ul. Złota 59, www.hardrock. com Panorama Bar Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, www.panoramabar.pl Paparazzi ul. Mazowiecka 12, www.paparazzi.com. pl Porto Praga Stefana Okrzei 23, www. portopraga.pl

BEST GOURMET GROCERY

(Voted by American Friends in Warsaw)

Marks & Spencer

Various locations, inc. ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Long term residents may recall the original Marks & Spencer in Warsaw, a clothes-only affair found in a plastic-looking warehouse by Central Station – its closure wasn’t mourned. Well the Marks & Spencer brand has been resuscitated with enthusiasm in the last few years, and a key reason for its new found popularity is the addition of a food section.

There is some debate over just which one is the best, but I’m going for the Marszałkowska branch. The on-site bakery is a winner for fresh donuts, pastries and bagels, while the frozen food selection – despite being a whole lot smaller than your average supermarket – is the final word in heat-and-eat curries, desserts and other such products. While the slant remains defiantly British (ginger beer, lemon curd, Scottish shortbread) the fact that an American organization voted this place the winner of this award speaks volumes for its international appeal. (AW) OTHER NOMINEES Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, www.biobazar.org.pl Kuchnia Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com.pl La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, www.lafromagerie.pl Na Zielnej ul. Zielna 37, www.nazielnej.pl Polna Market ul. Polna 13

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BEST CAFÉ CULTURE

(voted by the Mums & Tots group)

Café 6/12

ul. Żurawia 6/12, www.612.pl While the high-ceilinged interiors may strike newcomers as a little austere it’s no surprise to find 6/12 maintaining its reputation as Warsaw’s top cafe. A veteran on Żurawia, the breakfast has long been winning praises, while lunchtime is abuzz with regulars who can count on a good choice of dishes. If you have any food intolerance or you’re on a special diet, simply spell out what are off limits and the kitchen will rustle up a delicious plate that doesn’t violate your rulebook. For instant picker uppers, suck up their famous fresh juices and smoothies, and allow time to peruse the extensive menu that includes super food, like goji berries, aloe vera, ginseng and echinacea extract. (KC) OTHER NOMINEES Beirut ul. Poznańska 12 Chłodna 25 ul.

Chłodna 25, chlodna25.blog.pl Green Coffee www.greencoffee.pl Resort ul. Bielańska 1 Wrzenie Świata ul. Gałczyńskiego 7

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BEST RESTAURANT DESIGN (voted by the staff of the CSW Gallery)

U Kucharzy

ul. Ossolińskich 7, www.gessler.pl Set in the former kitchen of the landmark Hotel Europejski, U Kucharzy really does offer diners a unique eating experience. Unquestionably the most lively of all the capital’s many eateries it is the atmosphere as much as the food that makes this such a standout restaurant.

With traditional white tiled walls and wooden tables, the decor gives a feel of the historic nature of the setting. But it is at the centre of the restaurant that the real attraction is located, with the kitchen and its many chefs right there in front of the customers. It is marvelous to be able to watch the food being prepared in front of your eyes before one of the chefs walks up to your table to dish it out directly onto your plate.

And that’s what makes this such an outstanding place to eat. It is impossible to be bored as there is constant action, whether it is a chef rushing to a table with his latest creation or one of the numerous waiters (most of whom look like they have a few interesting stories to tell) checking that every table has been served, it always feels like there is a constant buzz of activity.

The cuisine itself is superb. Based on traditional Polish dishes but prepared to the highest standard, the menu includes such favourites as herring for starters and monk fish or beef roulade for main. This excellent restaurant is a must for anyone who likes to be served top drawer food in a wonderful setting. (DI) OTHER NOMINEES Izumi ul. Biały Kamień 4, www.izumisushi.eu Flaming & Co ul. Mokotowska 28, flaming-co. pl Likus Concept Store ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, www.likusconceptstore.pl Mito ul. Waryńskiego 28, www.mito.art.pl

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BEST SUNDAY BRUNCH (Voted by the American School in Warsaw)

Sheraton Hotel

ul. B. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.pl While their casual restaurant is called SomePlace Else, the Sheraton might consider a change of name to Something for Everyone – for certainly that is what makes their Sunday Brunch so stunning. From elegant international cuisine for the adults to loads of kid-fare (as Buzz Lightyear would say: to chicken nuggets and beyond!), prepare to truly feast your Sunday afternoon away.

Start with the amuse bouche appetizers familiar to anyone who has been to a reception there. Check out the clever twist on a Polish staple – galaretki in oversized shotglasses, but with flavors and suspended delicacies that are borderless. Proceed to the fresh oysters and deconstructed salads, consisting of long plates of vegetables and toppings separated to retain freshness with suggested dressings and sauces to the side. No sogginess here.

The Sheraton Brunch encourages meandering among their three restaurants.

Feeling like Asian? The sushi station is set up in the hallway, with the aroma of fresh oriental mains beckoning exploration. How about Tex-Mex? Fajitas, tortilla wraps, and fusion bar food reward the adventurous. Plenty of good old-fashion tasty European chow awaits in The Olive Restaurant. Who says you cannot mix your culinary geography?

Most other brunches suffer from cauldrons of food simmering and soaking far too long. Sheraton avoids this by custom cooking their fish, setting out buffet servings in smaller bowls, offering greater diversity than usual and keeping their waitstaff hopping resupplying the stock. All to Sergei’s soothing and classy piano accompaniment. But heed the warning – leave room for dessert! (PR)

PHOTOGRAPHS BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

OTHER NOMINEES Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389A, www.boathouse.pl Hilton ul. Grzybowska 63, www.warsaw.hilton.com Intercontinental ul Emilii Plater 49, www.warsaw.intercontinental. com LemonGrass Al. Ujazdowskie 8, www.lemongrass.waw.pl Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, www.westin.pl

BEST PEOPLE WATCHING (voted on facebook.com/ warsawinsider)

Charlotte

Pl. Zbawiciela, www.bistrocharlotte.com Charlotte has many good things going but it’s just not going to win the award as the best hangout for heart-to-heart chitchats. Why? Because it’s Mission Impossible to maintain eye contact with your opposite number. Instead, find your eyes straying around to spy, furtively or openly, on all the forms of life that come here: celebwatchers, for instance, will be pleased to know that a pal reported sitting at a table next to Ms. Aneta Kręglicka, the former Ms. Poland and Ms. World – there you go, the clientele here is a few notches more upscale than the hipster gang at the Nowy Wspaniały Świat café. We’ve checked out the vantage points from numerous different angles, and found that you can’t go wrong wherever your chair is – provided you get one, for Charlotte gets congested with people you want to watch. (KC) OTHER NOMINEES Beirut ul. Poznańska 12 Cafe Vincent ul. Nowy Świat 64 Hard Rock Café ul. Złota 59, www.hardrock.com Latem Bar Rynek Starego Miasto 8 Między Nami ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com

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THE BEST SHOPPING STREET IN WARSAW

BY AGNIESZKA JĘKSA

FASHION Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, aniakuczynska.com Reminiscent of a geisha room, trust in the advice of Oskar as you try on Ania's compelling, multi-usage collection.

Bohoboco ul. Mokotowska 71, bohoboco.com The two Bohoboco designers - Kamil and

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Michał - know good fashion. Their clothes could fit in the streets of Milan, yet the prices remain comfortingly Polish.

Concept Blind Store ul. Mokotowska 63/100 The stylists' mecca. Here you'll find treasures from Malene Birger, Vivienne Westwood for Melissa, 5PreVieW, Chic Alors! and many more besides.

Maciej Zień ul. Mokotowska 57, zien.pl Zień is the Dior of Polish fashion and the stars' fave. The home design showroom behind the main store is similarly ace – the staff will show you the right door.

Mood Design ul. Mokotowska 46 This Italian company, known worldwide for their clothes, equally impresses in the handmade home design stakes. Their hallmark, the so-called Paisley from Asia, can be found on cashmere blankets, pillows and silks.

MO'52 ul. Mokotowska 52 Modern city fashion with labels like CK, Prada, Lanvin, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Chloe, Bottega Veneta and Alberta Ferretti.

Pl. Tzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Tzech Krzyży 3/4 A living advert for Ralph Lauren and similar labels (Tod's, Ferragamo), it's position at the head of Mokotowska make it a favorite start

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point for shopping splurges.

Odzieżowe Pole ul. Mokotowska 51/53 Marzena Ratowska has become a master of elegant yet funky creations in the 15 years since launching her own brand. Tired?

Sit down for a coffee and chill down in their tiny coffeeshop inside.

Wearso.organic ul. Mokotowska 60/100 (in the cellar) Ola Waś – the brainbox behind Wearso – professes a baroque philosophy: the more cloth, the better. The effects are astonishing!

SHOPS Ale Wino ul. Mokotowska 48, http://alewino.pl An exclusive store with international wines and a seperate vanilla colored tasting space.

Leave yourself in the hands of Adrian the sommelier and you can't go wrong.

Bęc Zmiana ul. Mokotowska 65, www.funbec.eu A fantastic array of arty coffee table tomes and hip, design titles, as well as a selection of cool cameras to compliment your look.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high-end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dyrberg/Kern.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY COURTESY OF STORES MAP BY KEVIN DEMARIA

A child of the XVIIth century, Mokotowska is an architectural crossing point of neorenaissance, art nouveau, classical styles and modernism. Yet it's for its shopping that it's become know; let your credit card out of its cage and dip into the contemporary glam of the boutiques.

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La Sal Gallery ul. Mokotowska 52, www.lasalgallery.com Beautiful organic boutique dedicated to salts in all flavours, such as mouthmelting white and black truffles. And the crazy, posh jewelry available is the cherry on the cream.

EAT & DRINK

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple: choose one or more hand-engraved medallions (with words of your choice) and join them on a colorful string. It's a must-have for all the Warsaw fashionista.

The Corner ul. Piękna 18 (enter from Mokotowska), www.thecorner.pl The interiors are bright, modern and nothing to make the eyes pop. Let the coffee do that instead, or for that matter their fresh croissants, super soups and international wines.

Mimbla ul. Mokotowska 51/53, www.mimbla.pl This toy and bookstore for children is fronted by two charming Mary Poppins-style characters. They offer books in English, playthings, crocheted cuddlies and a variety of games.

Przegryź ul. Mokotowska 52 Take a break from rummaging between the hangers in this intimate restaurant. Owned by journalist Piotr Najsztub, the famous Najsztub broth is reason enough to visit.

Bukieteria Roma ul. Mokotowska 49, www.restauracjaroma.pl A Polish sense of welcoming and an Italian spirit materialized in, for instance, fresh mussels or salmon coated in pesto.

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Ale Wino Ania Kuczyńska Bęc Zmiana Bohoboco Concept Blind Store HOS&me La Sal Gallery Lilou Maciej Zień Mimbla Mood Design MO'52 Odzieżowe Pole Pl. Tzech Krzyży 3/4 Przegryź Bukieteria Roma The Corner Wearso.organic

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THE BEST OF STROLLING THE NEIGHBORHOOD With the year coming to its climax it’s time to take stock and reflect on the highlights of our Strolling series. So, without further ado, we bring you the best from a few of the districts we’ve explored and uncovered. BY ALEX WEBBER ture prize called Mr. Warsaw. Unveiled in 1974, Jerzy Cander’s creation has since had a vulgar makeover, though lovers of seventies chic will still appreciate the exterior of this classic old timer.

W-Z Highway

If ever you needed an example of just how harsh things were under communism, then consider this: during the PRL years this road was considered a major tourist attraction. I kid you not. Poland’s first urban expressway was championed as proof of the socialist miracle, and thousands lined it when it was officially opened in ’74

by Brezhnev and Gierek. Today the underpass below is putrid in aroma and Stygian in gloom, but well worth pausing for the nifty-looking wall art.

Finnish Houses

UJAZDÓW

Covered as our July walk, the area of Ujazdów is best known for its political nucleus – aside from the rather boring-looking parliament building, find rows of ornamental, wedding cake embassies (plus the catastrophic American contribution), and other mysterious institutions with Fort Knox security. But there’s also so much more – the new Legia stadium, for example (scandalously renamed the Pepsi Arena). A little less Planet of the Apes, the area is known for

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the CSW, the castle-turned-gallery, as well as its swathes of elegant parkland. Yes, it’s an area best appreciated with Warsaw in bloom, but even so there’s enough kinks and quirks that merit a further look.

Blast from the Past

For a cosmic communist flashback check Café Rozdroże (Ujazdowskie 6), a groovy concrete/glass construction that was considered so cutting edge when it launched, that it found itself scooping a zany-sounding architec-

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Of all the pleasant surprises I’ve had on these walks, the discovery of the Finnish houses ranks as the best – and I can’t wait to see them under the full spell of Jack Frost. Consisting of 28 (originally 200+) wooden chalets, it’s an amazing section of Warsaw and reminiscent of a forgotten rustic outpost. Found down ul. Jazdów, the prebuilt houses – imported from Finland – were put together in ’45, ostensibly to house the top engineers involved in Warsaw’s resuscitation.

Finding such serenity in the cauldron of the city is amazing, even though the distant vibrations from W-Z have put the development on the danger list. And should there be any Beatlemaniacs out there, conclude any inspection of this sector of town at the peace wall on ul. Lennona. It’s a poor

second to the one in Prague, but not without history – it’s here that Lennon fans staged an impromptu homage/ love-in/exotic smoke to their hero on the first anniversary of his death.

Ironically, a few days after their peace march, Martial Law was announced sending the country into chaos.

PRAGA

Bloated with leaning tenements and blackened chimney stacks, the area of Praga is a district like no other.

Its fortunes have oscillated greatly, and while it survived the outright devastation of WWII its post-war fate saw it purposefully populated with deadbeats and villains. The collapse of communism saw the rest of Warsaw fast track itself to riches, but Praga, well, Praga remained in the deep freeze. Till now. Once wretched and repellent, the Praga of 2011 is a hotbed of art and innovation, and certainly one of the standout quarters in which we went on patrol.

Industrial Revolution

My personal highlight is the Koneser Vodka Factory at Ząbkowska 27/31.

Entered through spooky neo-Gothic gates, this red brick complex currently serves as a pseudo-cultural center of workshops and design stores. And while the production of vodka has long since ceased, the drinking of it hasn’t. Check out Czysta Ojczysta, a wicked vodka bar made all the better thanks to the Bladerunner backdrop.

Yet this isn’t the only factory complex turned good. Look out for Soho Factory (ul. Mińska 25), for a series of once derelict units now rented for fashion shows and club nights.

Art to Art

Praga is a byword for (experi)mentalism, and that’s evidenced in not just its wall art, but its statues. And no, we don’t mean the disco-lit musicians (booooring) or the dastardly Soviet soldiers (temporarily forklifted away).

What we mean is stuff like the Miasto Aniołów project on Ząbkowska, a collection of Smurf-colored angels perched on a wall. I would say they’re unmissable, but actually they are: they’ve been repeatedly targeted by kleptos – where there were four, now stands one, and on last sighting he looked like he’d been used as a toilet by a very sick bird. Also lucking out

is Pan Guma, a quirky rubber statue honoring a local bum – yep, that’s been thieved as well. Showing a more survivalist spirit, find a sculpture of Amy Winehouse deep in the courtyard at Brzeska 17A.

Mother of God

Aside from outbreaks of freestyle expression, the courtyards of Praga are known for their shrines. The majority of these Mary’s appeared during the war, bringing with them a much-needed sense of “security, solidarity and even freedom.” They remain carefully tended and intricately decorated, and lend a brilliant color to the battered backyards.

Piwo in Praga

Enough of art and culture you say, tell us about the bars. Well, zillions of them here to pick from, and while the courtyard on Listopada has a major cult following, I’d recommend Ząbkowska street for one for the road. While I love Łysy Pingwin, my favorite has to be Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra, a dark and scraggy space with approx. eight fridges filled with unsung beers from remote corners of the East. This became the official Insider base during our Praga research, and it was here the team met a walrus-whiskered pest who became the first unhinged stalker in the history of the mag. www.warsawinsider.pl

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MURANÓW

It’s easy to think of Muranów as grey, grim and grotty, and yes, when viewed from the passenger side of a blacked-out Merc it most certainly is.

Drab and decomposing this rotting relic of Marxist economics may already be familiar to ex-pats, primarily as the twilight zone that forms a buffer between the Arkadia Mall and the CBD. Yet strangely, while the rainbows that arc over Muranów are streaked in cold, charcoal colors, the pot of gold at the bottom is anything but...

A Socialist Experiment

Socialist swagger is easy to come by round these parts. The Jewish Ghetto was right here, and the Nazis did a proficient job of razing it to the ground – only eight buildings survived, leaving an area of 2.5 sq/m drowned under 3-4 million cubic meters of rubble. Using the stern, Stalinist style adopted by architect Bohdan Lachert, the area was rebuilt in the 50s with bricks made from compacted debris.

Today, walking amid the colonnades and sunless archways of Andersa, the suffocating shadow of Big Brother hangs heavy.

Museum of Polish Jews

How time flies – it’s easy to forget that two/three years back this nascent museum was little more than a blue tent. Slated to launch next year, it’s guaranteed to cause a global stir when it eventually opens; even Barack has pledged to bring the

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brood here. In the meantime, with work reaching a frenzy, expect even the Ghetto Uprising Monument to be fenced from the public. Which is a shame. Built from material slated for a Nazi victory arch, it’s here that Chancellor Willy Brandt dropped to his knees in 1970, an iconic image which lay the foundations for German-Jewish reconciliation.

The Rabbi’s Curse

While technically not in Muranów, it’s hard to ignore the Blue Tower (Pl. Bankowy) and its importance to the area. This was where Warsaw’s Great Synagogue formerly stoff, the cornerstone of the district’s Jewish community. Completed in 1878, it was flattened by the Nazis to celebrate the defeat of the Ghetto Uprising. While plans to replace the void were hatched as early as the 50s, it was only in the 70s that construction of a skyscraper was initiated. But blast, having reached its top-out level of 120 meters, Poland’s economy crashed leaving the people of Warsaw with a copperboned skeleton that loomed over town. Rumors that a Rabbi’s curse had halted construction flew thick and fast, and it was only two decades later the tower was finished.

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OLD TOWN

Nestled to the north of the city, Warsaw’s Old Town is the protected panda of Poland, a fact reflected by her inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List. That the name is a misnomer is neither here nor there.

Levelled in 1944, what you see now is Old Town 2.0, a faithful recreation of what stood before – as remakes go it’s a good job they’ve done. And while there’s no bad time to visit, winter is something else – more so when the rooftops are dusted with snow and the side alleys thick with soup-like fog.

Socialist Paradise

Warsaw’s first post-war housing project, Mariensztat, can be found directly below Old Town (linked by Poland’s first escalator). Built to a signature Socialist template, elements of this Brave New World survive in the form of quirky statues, fading murals and allegorical animals pasted on peeling pink walls.

Uprising ’44

While not overtly obvious, the Old Town bristles with evidence of the doomed ’44 rebellion. The original column that balanced Zygmunt,

for instance, can be found lying on its side by the castle – broken into pieces after being felled by a tank.

The half-scorched figure of Christ in St. Martin’s is the only object that survived the blaze there, while on ul. Kanonia take a look at the original Cathedral bell, since glued together Humpty Dumpty-style. And don’t miss the Little Insurgent Monument, a poignant memorial inspired by the death of a 13 year old boy-soldier.

After Dark

As day turns into dusk you can almost feel the Old Town snoring itself to sleep. Really, do you know anyone who does their bar hopping round these parts? Redressing the balance is Karmnik (ul. Piwna 4A), a top little haunt with pedigree beers lapped up by artists and creatives. The pigeons above the entrance, incidentally, are a tribute to some potty old woman who spent the post-war years camped in the ruins feeding the birds.

home to Warsaw’s best cakes.

Stadium

The will it, won’t it saga of the National Stadium is far from over!

Despite already hosting open days and events, the gleaming 58,000 arena has yet to be road tested in a matchday environment. While official despatches claim it’ll be match-ready by the end of the year, you’ll find the trace of a sly smile on the face of the cynics. And while it looks space age, there’s a history behind it. Makkabi, Warsaw’s pre-war Jewish team, once played on this site, and in the years after the war it (in)famously functioned as Stadion Dziesięciolecia – for nearly two decades after communism, it became home to Europe’s largest open-air bazaar, and a haven of vice, piracy and small-time crime. A statue

of three relay racers frozen mid-run is the one original element that can be seen to this day.

From Picasso to Manson

In 1948 Picasso stayed in the house at Obrońców 28/30, and it’s artistic heritage is honored to this day – find the weird works of artist Mateusz Sikora lurking in the weeds, as well as a tablet unveiled by the Spanish royal family commemorating Picasso’s fleeting stay. Celebrated nearby is Agnieszka Osiecka, a prolific poetess credited with penning lyrics to 2,000 tunes. A Saska patriot, she was briefly married to Wojciech Frykowski – a producer butchered by the followers of Charles Manson in the Helter Skelter murders. Osiecka’s monument can be seen on Francuska right outside Rue de Paris.

SASKA KĘPA

The cultivated civility of Saska Kępa is in direct contrast to the what you find in old Praga directly up north.

Sedate in pace and almost English in atmosphere, Saska is a glorious advert for inter-war modernism. Heaving with embassies, this leafy suburb is a strolling fave, even in winter with the temperatures plunging.

Skaryszewski Park

Warsaw’s favorite park, at least according to a straw poll conducted by lawnmower kings Briggs & Stratton. But it certainly wasn’t mine when I lived in this neck of the woods, in fact I viewed it as Park Scary-szewski – thanks, in part, to lurid stories about creepy George Michael-style activities taking place in the bushes.

So checking it out for the June issue I was surprised to find a gorgeous park with plenty of points of interest – a memorial to Poles killed in 9/11, a Red Army monument that had allegedly been sprayed with bullets just months before, and a commemorative boulder honoring the crew of an RAF plane shot down during the ’44 Uprising. I doubt it’ll look as good in December, but Misianka certainly will.

That’s the cafe close to the entrance – set in a former toilet, some claim it’s

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ST. MIKOŁAJ IS COMING TO TOWN...

Christmas during the PRL was a family affair, and not in the traditional, merrymaking way you imagine. Each member of the clan would have been designated different duties, with the lion's share of these based around queuing. You gottit, each family member would be appointed as the 'queuer' for varying precious commodities like oranges, bananas, raisins and carp. Lines in front of the fish store took an ever-spiraling shape, with the really commited waiting from 4am.

Once that battle was won, and after enduring the journey home in a plastic bag, the horrid creature still had two weeks of swimming in the bathtub ahead of him until execution on Christmas Eve. But since there wasn't enough carp to satisfy the whole nation, workplaces would command an earlier delivery and organize lotteries in which the star prize would be a piece of fish, or even the whole thing – wow!

As far as the aforementioned oranges are concerned though, they would arrive once-a-year on a ship from Cuba or Spain, with the press giving eagerly anticipated updates on the ship's journey. Even if the sacred oranges arrived to PL earlier in November, the authorities would wait till December to release them on the market, using the occasion as a propaganda stunt with them taking a starring role as the festive benefactors. (KK)

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Hidden in the foliage of Rydza-Śmigłego Park, visitors might be startled to find a classic piece of concrete communism peeping out from under the trees. That's Syreni Śpiew, a monstrous carbuncle dating from 1975.

Decorated with intricate mosaics and stone cladding it's something of a treasure for lovers of shock seventies architecture.

And, from mid-December on, you'll have the chance to see what it looks like inside. Opening in the middle of the month, you might expect a retro haven – but apparently not. What it will be, we've been told, is Warsaw's first high-class whisky bar: a new-meetsold concept that sounds ready to rock. (AW)

You could scavenge markets like Olimpia for commie-era gifts, though for the best choice, try Kultowe Dobranocki (Ogrodowa 1A), a cool two level shop/cafe where the cult of the PRL bravely lives on. Find board games, cuddly animals and other toys and gifts in this light twist on a dark time. (AW) Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 D e c e m b e r 2 0 1 1

PHOTOGRAPHS, THIS PAGE FROM TOP AGENCJA FORUM, ANNA J. KUTOR, KEVIN DEMARIA. OPPOSITE PAGE, GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

RELICS OF THE PRL (1952-1989)

MUM'S THE WORD

“ In temperatures below zero, and knee deep in snow, everyone oohed as Warsaw lit up”

WARSAW'S WINTER WONDERLAND

It might not compare to Oxford Street, but Warsaw's own Christmas illuminations have a charm of their own – here's what's in store. BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

O

h to be a child again during the holiday season!

Whilst mum and dad argue over whether it’s worth putting up a tree this year and whose parents to visit first, their only concern is to ensure enough paper is at hand to write down all their wishes from Father Christmas, Poland’s Mikołaj or, in our case, Holland’s very own Sinterklaas.

So it’s no wonder that by the time I've picked all the pepernoten (a small biscuit used by Sinterklaas’ helpers to throw at the children) out of shoes and furniture and successfully twisted my tongue round Poland’s extensive Christmas vocabulary that the word ‘humbug’ springs to mind followed by visions of a sandy beach, palm trees and chilled cocktails.

But then I remember what the holiday season is really about: family! So, without a moment to lose, and even if it’s only for a few weeks, I rush out and buy the biggest, most lopsided Christmas tree of all, I order the heaviest and healthiest turkey Warsaw will offer (tip: Polna Market 19/20) and pencil into my diary a stroll into town to watch Warsaw’s Christmas illuminations being switched on.

I know it’s not great for star gazer’s, and some will complain about the energy costs in such a time of austerity, but during these dark days a little light display goes a long way in lifting my spirits. So much so that my husband has taken to creating his own annual illumination display on our balcony. Each year I fear he has lost all sanity and good taste, but then the intense glow grows on me and I have to admit that it’s actually rather jolly, with even the life-size reindeer winning my heart.

But, if you want to get near the Old Town for the switching on of the lights, be prepared for some pushing, shoving and few excuse ME’s! Last year we huddled like penguins on a tiny piece of castle wall chanting the count down. In temperatures below zero, and knee deep in snow, everyone oohed as Warsaw lit up. And no, the frozen toes were not in vain – the spectacle was dazzling, though the lure of central heating did lead to a hasty retreat home to defrost.

This year I am making a few adjustments to our evening.

I know it’s all about the Christmas tree for the children, but for 2011 I intend to indulge my escapist fantasy by commencing our stroll at the foot of Warsaw’s other tree – the infamous Palm, located on the Charles de Gaulle roundabout, commands the perfect position to watch the lights go on in Pl. Trzech Krzyży and Nowy Świat. To boot, it's surrounded by cafes and bars ready to serve up the perfect hot toddy to kick start our journey down the Royal Route, before concluding in the Old Town, up close and personal to 2011’s Christmas tree.

From there, it's home, an easy route guided by a bright beaming light in the sky: our balcony with all its Christmas paraphernalia. Then it’s a pat good night for Mr. Reindeer before our own lights out.

Christmas Concert & Illuminations Old Town, December 3rd Christmas Market through till January 8th

www.warsawinsider.pl

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FOOD

THE FEAST BEFORE CHRISTMAS

Putting twelve dishes on the table for the traditional Wigilia dinner isn’t as daunting as it seems. Here’s how to pull it off. BY KIT F. CHUNG

But while going dry might send you into a fit, dishing out 12 dishes shouldn’t, for there’s room for manoeuvre. If you count separately each of the herring dishes of a different dressing, you’ll check off three or four items. Throw in the nuts, dried fruits, chocolate and dessert and you’ll max out in no time. Either way, here’s a few musts: Soup and Veggie Sides Red barszcz (beet root soup) with uszka or mushroom soup with pasta are two of the popular ones. With veggies, you have free hand. Boiled cabbage with mushroom, potato salad and gołąbki (cabbage rolls) are some usual suspects.

Fish Carp is always fodder for heated discussion. The Hate-It camp, earnestly badmouth this freshwater creature as muddy and gross. Whatever your allegiance is, do wallow

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in seasonal cheer by visiting markets, like Hala Mirowska, to see fishmongers and their tubs of live flippers. A story goes round that city folks buy the fish days earlier and keep it alive in the bathtub till it’s time to strike the blow.

I’ve never seen this in action and I suspect it’s a gag locals made up for gullible foreigners (ed note: it’s true!). Trout, pike or eel can stand in to appease the carp rebels. The fish can be served warm. For the cold version, fish flesh is encased in jelly. “Ergh,” I hear you say. Many Poles say the same, too. But tradition and covert supporters keep it a recurring theme on the Wigilia table.

Dessert If you’re going homemade then try makowiec (poppyseed roll). The hallmark of success is keeping the dough as thin as possible and packing in loads of poppyseed and dried fruit mix. In some families, preparing the poppyseed is very much part of the festive cooking routine. The seeds are simmered in milk, drained and milled (by hand) several times. My fave though is poppyseed soaked in brandy and mixed with chopped almonds and walnuts, and scooped up with thin cookies. It’s good to get a head start, as early as four weeks, with the piernik (gingerbread) to allow time for the spices to mingle in the dough. Every family has their own recipe and some are fairly complicated affairs with layers and fillings.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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he festive merrymaking happens a day earlier in Poland. It’s on Christmas Eve, called Wigilia in Polish, when family members exchange well wishes by sharing a consecrated wafer (opłatek). Then the prezzies are swapped before the family faces down 12 meat-free dishes (one for each apostle). In strict households, it’s also an alcohol-free night, though this rule is the first to be flexed in more liberal households.

EATING OUT Restaurants, Cafes & Wine Bars SECTIONS African. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

American & Tex-Mex . . . .

Asian & Indian. . . . . . . . . .

Balkan & Russian. . . . . . .

British. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

French. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Greek/Middle Eastern. . .

International & Fusion. . .

THIS MONTH:

* 16 updates

RATINGS p. 37 p.37 p. 38 p.42 p.42 p. 26 p.42 p. 42 p.44

Italian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Japanese & Sushi. . . . . . .

Kosher & Jewish. . . . . . . .

Latin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Polish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Seafood. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wine Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Food Shops. . . . . . . . . . . .

p. 48 p.50 p. 52 p.52 p.34 p. 52 p.32 p.52

The following symbols (A1) map location are a rough indicator ideal for business as to how much you meetings can expect to pay for take a date a main course.

child friendly $ mains under

vegetarian friendly zł. 30

delivery $$ mains breakfast menu

zł. 30-55

free wifi available $$$ mains zł. 55+ BOW 2010 Best of Warsaw Award Winner

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND

12 Stolików ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:00-23:00.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF 12 STOLIKÓW

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“ Here’s a place that embraces that credos of cooking as a form of theatre”

he invincible Tomo aside, Krucza has traditionally been something of a graveyard for business – a place where restaurants do well to survive let alone thrive. Indeed, it’s got a gory casualty list, with scores of names bombed out by high rents. Hoping to break the hex is 12 Stolików, a trendy eatery looking to cash in on the areas rising stock as Warsaw’s culinary axis.

Aesthetically speaking it’s a triumph from the off. Affecting a chichi style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles and autumn leaves. Set against milk white colors, the overall effect instantly impresses. And forming the central element of it all is the kitchen – not so much open as stark, b@llock naked. Yes, here’s a place that embraces that credos of cooking as a form of theatre, with all the chopping and cutting performed just yards from your table. No surprise, therefore, that it’s attracted a very particular audience: foodies and fashion Nazis weighed down with boutique bags from the shops down the road.

Now, a place this intimate needs its staff to get up close and personal with diners – to share the banter and lead them through the specials: even more so considering it’s a Polish-only menu that’s chalked on the board. That staff/client connection is lacking here, and you get the impression the front-of-house team would be more at home in the back.

Does the food offset the social shortcomings of the staff? I started with a simple alio olio, and while I appreciate it was made fresh from scratch, the waiting time emerged as an exercise in finger drumming. But I soon found out the reason for the lag – the chef had overcooked the pasta.

Mains were more successful, fantastic even. I chose steak, and here’s where they pulled out the big guns and scored the perfect ten. And the wine I paired it with was also a plus; unfortunately, that was down to a lucky throw of the dice. I know nothing about wine. Ask me for my favorite vintage and I’d answer Blue Nun. Once again, this is where some wisdom from the wait staff would have been received warmly and well – with more attention to detail what is a good restaurant could be even better. (AW)

www.warsawinsider.pl

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EATING OUT cafés

Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork.

The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high.

Amor (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17, tel. 22 825 0036, www.czekoladziarniaamor.pl. Open Sun-Mon 12:00-21:00, Tue-Thu 10:00-21:00, Fri 10:0022:00, Sat 11:00-22:00. Chocoholics beware!

One step inside this chocolate parlor is all it takes to become a lifelong fan. Definitely no place for those on a diet, no matter what the light salads and fresh soups may suggest.

Batida (multiple locations) ul. Królewska 2, tel. 22 826 4474, ul. Przy Lasku 2 (Wola), ul. Marszałkowska 53, ul. Przejazd 6, pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, www.batida.com.pl. Open daily 9:00-21:00.

A café, upscale delicatessen and cake shop with traditional Polish elegance. Excellent cakes and nibbles.

Bily Konicek Café (C3) National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. 696 490 846. Open daily 9:00-20:00. Stylish décor, brilliant lattes, delicious meringues, fresh pies and home-baked oatmeal cookies, this is a great place for a sweet bite on a rainy day.

Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest.

Brilliant traditional desserts in a historic location that has a history that spans over a century of fine pastry-making. Also stop by the next-door deli for specialty goods.

Bookhousecafé (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 826 8559.

Open daily 7:30-23:00. Great sandwiches, pastries, custom-brewed coffees and over a dozen varities of tea in a bookish interior that is intellectual in spirit.

Cafe Borgia (H4) ul. Francuska 50, tel. 22 468 8554. Open 9:00-21:00. Instantly loveable, the downtown cafe branch of the eminent Balgera racks up points for a completely brilliant collection of cakes and desserts. Substantials like freshlymade pasta also available inside relaxed, whitewashed interiors.

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Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00.

Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better.

Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team.

Eastern Bloc. Decorated with chunky phones and primary colors it’s a cheeky look at the good ole’ days.

Café Colombia (D4) Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 628 0226.

Open 7:00-23:00. An exotic, colorful café that gains approval for the use of fine-grade Colombian coffee apparently purchased direct from the producer; the luxury Hacienda Bombona is particularly noteworthy.

Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115.

Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches.

Café Lemon Bar (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. 22 829 5544, www.cafelemon.pl. Open daily 24hr. Eight years old and counting, Lemon’s greatest glory are their open hours – non-stop.

For an early dawn after-party comedown, this citrus-colored cafe ticks the box, and isn’t so bad during the day when large, airy windows ensure maximum opportunity for people gazing.

Café Melon (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 1. Open daily 9:00-19:00.

This chic little café is an extension of the Melon photo studio located on the property. Here you can have a cup of gourmet tea or coffee and whole-grain cookies while enjoying the art on display.

Mounted photos taken by some of Poland’s young photographers are on sale.

Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles.

Café Roskosz ul. Wiolinowa 2a, tel. 22 111 5015, www.caferoskosz.pl. Open 10:00-20:00.

Ursynów is a bit of a dead end when it comes to social life, so a big welcome to Roskosz, a cool café with retro interiors that scream ’80s

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Café Rue de Paris (Saska Kępa) (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 617 8773, www.ruedeparis.eu. Open Mon-Fri 8:0021:00, Sat- Sun 7:30-22:00. A favorite rendez-vous spot for all the French- speaking folk dwelling the area. Salads, quiches and pancakes as well as fresh pastries baked on the premises.

Caffe Balgera (C6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 629 0189. www.balgera.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. The breakfast menu here is simple but sweet and there’s great upscale café fare here all day long.

Caffetino (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 22 624 0196.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 10:0021:00. Located near the Palace of Culture, Caffetino serves mainly Italian cuisine: their pastas are truly excellent. Besides pasta, their specialities include delicious Italian coffees – with some interesting twists, such as the latte with honey and very tasty desserts.

Cava (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427.

Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:0024:00. Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59, www.cava.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Dreadlocks and piercings are the favored attire in Chłodna, one of the last bastions of beatnik chic this side of the Wisła. Here it’s all sunken sofas and chipped wood tables inside a soothing environment celebrated for its experimental sounds and anti-establishment vibe. >>

EATING OUT >> Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00.

One of the true pleasures of spring is the Coffee Karma terrace; order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee.

Czaji Bar Herbaciarnia (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7101.

Open daily 9:00-23:00. With a sumptuouslydecorated interior – think elegant, creamcolored and flouncy French queen’s private chambers – and beautifully-trained staff, Czaji Teahouse is a must-visit at any time of day.

Czarny Motyl (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 2, tel. 608 680 964, www.czarnymotyl.pl. Open daily 12:00-to last customer. An intriguing cross between a chilled-out bar and a cafe, this is a good spot to grab a light meal, a pre-party drink or post-work sheesha.

Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one.

Delikatesy Bracia Gessler (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00;

Lunch time

Take-away option

Sun 10:00-23:00. Great sandwiches, cakes and pastries from the Gessler dynasty.

Columned, imperial interiors add a swish look to this Royal Route stalwart.

Fiku Miku Café (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 32. Open 10:00-19:00.

A kid-friendly café filled with stuffed animals and wooden toys. The menu is a good, simple affair that involves shakes and smoothies, salads, quiche and slim line cakes.

Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 798 409 356, www.filtrycafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00. Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky atmosphere that attracts art lovers.

Flora Caffe (E7) Al. Ujazdowskie 4, tel. 607 232 642.

Open daily 10:00-20:00. Just outside the Botanical Gardens, this half café and half nursery serves teas, smoothies and sweet treats. Also open in chillier weather.

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00.

An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices.

Garaż Café (Wilanów) ul. Pastewna 25, tel. 22 858 2693,

Cocktails

www.garaz-cafe.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:30; Sat 13:00-21:30; Sun 13:00-17:30.

It’s exactly what it sounds like: a café in a renovated garage. But the fresh, substantial salads and rich pastas win it a real thumbs-up.

Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors.

Herba Thea (C8) ul. Bruna 20, tel. 22 825 8814, www.herbathea.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00. Just a 5 minute walk from Pole Mokotowskie, off of Al. Niepodległości, this cosy teahouse houses a gallery and hosts live music and workshops on the weekends.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. $ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Café” Winner Kalimba (Żoliborz) ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 869 9784, mob. 502 669 376, www.kalimba.pl. Open

Quality

Book parties with us

www.paparazzi.com.pl ul. Mazowiecka 12

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>>

EATING OUT >> Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-20:00.

Kalimba is a café designed specifically with little ones in mind. A cross between a gummy candy counter café and toy shop, it’s a wonderland for kids.

Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00.

The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic.

Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries.

Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge!

Kawka Bar Kawowy (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 22 621 6557, www.kawka.pl. Open Mon-Wed 9:00-22:00; Thur-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. With 30 varieties of coffee (and a nice tea selection for you non-coffee types), Kawka brews up great java in a pleasant setting.

Kępa Café (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12a, tel. 22 616 1225, www.kepacafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0022:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00. A beatnik café that attracts the artists, writers and free wi-fi addicted inhabitants. Just the place if you’re craving coffee or tea from exotic corners of the world, or just seeking a peaceful escape from all the city buzz.

Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl.

Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials.

Kredkafe (E6) al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00.

The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows.

Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

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La Vanille ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www. lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the

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same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. The coffee is pretty good and all.

Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 22 745 1071, www.lechocolat.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. This chic emporium is the realisation of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan. Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds.

Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 22 350 77 77.

Finally open, and further evidence that the Wilcza/Poznańska crossroad might, just might, become the next big thing. Touting themselves as a place for ‘coffee and culture’ we’ll be back next month to see if they walk the walk.

Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders.

Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired influenced by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote. blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats.

Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00;

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updates

Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00.

One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior.

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Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award. Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. Find a painfully in vogue crowd comparing boutique buys over gourmet coffee.

MiTo ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www. mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:0023:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. See and be seen – preferably, with a silk scarf and iPad. Mood Café (D10) Al. Niepodległości 80 (Ogród building), tel. 22 898 3003. Open daily 10:00-21:00.

Adjacent to a restaurant with a mainly Italian menu, this café has all the necessary caffeine options. Their banana and caramel cake is a must!

Mokotowska 22 ul. Mokotowska 22, tel. 22 622 0689, www.mokotowska-22.pl. Open 7:30-22:00.

Ignoring the rather lame name (come on, get creative eh...), 22 features soft, coffee-colored chairs, zappy, innovative art and an undefeatable selection of lattes. It works on every level, and is a great alternative to braying, boasting Charlotte down the road.

Mucha nie siada (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 501 620 669.

Open daily 10:00-22:00. This friendly little café is a relatively new arrival, and as one of the only truly kid-friendly locales in the neighborhood, it’s a welcome addition. Has WiFi, a cheerful air and a menu of soups, bruschetta and gourmet coffee.

My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, tel. 22 412 5594,

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EATING OUT >> www.mybabycafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums.

Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D3) Nowy Świat 63, tel. 22 505 6696, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. All life is here, from environmental radicals to theater bigwigs, and while it helps to look like a political activist, it’s become increasingly popular with the more standard Nowy Świat crowd. Lectures, DJs, exhibitions and screenings mean no night is the same.

Pędzący Królik (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 826 0245. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:0023:00. Could Pędzący Królik be any more charming? It’s got a gorgeous view of the Theater Square and great desserts. Indulge in a carafe of the reasonably-priced house red and enjoy the great food and service.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30.

An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead.

Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching.

Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl.

Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries. No piekarnia can come even close.

Same Fusy (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 635 9014, www.samefusy.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00.

A must for café junkies. There are over 100 teas (ranging from the tame to the bizarre) to choose from.

Sklep z Kanapkami (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11. Open Mon- Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. A big selection of hot and cold sandwiches served

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on tasty, filling ciabatta bread to eat in or take out. Also soups, salads, pierogi, fresh juices, and even muesli. The prices are very reasonable for this neck of the woods.

Słodki… Słony (D6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 622 4934. Open Mon 11:00-24:00; Tue.-Sun 10:00-24:00.

Sumptuously designed by Magda Gessler, Poland’s alpha restaurateur, the place has a homely, distinctly feminine feel. Recommended are the intensively creamy pistachio pie and Pavlova, as well as a small selection of equally delectable main courses.

Szpilka (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 22 628 9132.

Open 24hrs. The days when Szpilka stood on the leaderboard of nightlife are long gone, but that’s not to say it’s not worth dropping in. The food osciallates in quality, but the location alone attracts a healthy stream of cafe hoppers and pub crawlers.

Starbucks (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 62 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 829 4021, www.starbucks.pl. Open Mon-Thur 7:3021:30; Fri-Sat 7:30-23:00; Sun 9:00-21:30.

It had to happen. The Starbucks invasion is well under way. First it was Nowy Świat, now the rest of Warsaw is under attack.

Decent coffee, but it’s yet to entirely imitate the standards they’re known for.

Steff Cafe (F6) ul. Jazdów 1, tel. 507 286 136. Open Sun-Thurs 10:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00.An intellectual looking cafe in one of the outbuildings

by Zamek Ujazdowski. A limited selection of drinks and snacks is offset by a horizontal atmosphere and an adjoining bookstore filled with arty, coffee table tomes.

Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers.

To Lubię (C1) ul. Freta 10, tel. 22 635 9023, www.tolubie.pl.

Open daily 10:00-22:00. The perfect place (with loads of charm and wonderful owners) to spend hours with friends while working your way through their delicious menu. The basket

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of cookies comes highly recommended.

Tok Café (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 621 7799, www.tokcafe.pl. Open daily 7:00-22:00.

Perfect music for Monday mornings. Great sandwiches, salads, hot meals and a mouthwatering selection of goodies for your sugar fix.

TUTU Music Bar (Ursynów) Al. KEN 95 (near metro Stokłosy), tel. 22 251 3274, www.tutu.waw.pl.

Open daily 13:00-last guest. TUTU Music Bar is the first smooth jazz bar in Warsaw’s Ursynów district. Its name comes from the album that Miles Davis recorded in the 80’s with Polish jazzman Michał Urbaniak.

Vespa Café (D6) ul. Armii Ludowej 14 (PWC building), tel. 22 825 5775. Open Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00.

A chic, comfortable, sexy space inspired by 60’s Italy in the lobby of the PWC office building. Unlimited free internet access and plenty of sockets make this the ideal spot for a mobile office.

Wrzenie Świata ul. Gałczyńskiego 7, tel. 22 828 4998.

Open daily 9:00-22:00. This café/bookshop doubles as the events room for the Institute of Reportage, so it’s scant surprise to learn the regulars are armed to the teeth with notebooks and macs. Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. Żywiciel (Żoliborz) pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 322 8228, www.zywiciel.pl. Open daily 9:00-23:00.

This hipster café has gained a solid following thanks to its broad menu of breakfast choices.

Casual, relaxing atmosphere, enhanced by the art hanging on Żywiciel’s brick walls.

wine bars

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Bagno Wine & Food ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00.With its huge windows and stark style you get the idea that Bagno would really work best in summer; all it takes is a grey Warsaw day to plunge this place into total gloom. And that’s a shame, because here we have one more wine bar with a highly commendable menu. In fact, we love it, not least the steak.

C.K. Oboźna Cafe Bar (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 826 8317. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last guest; Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun

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EATING OUT >> 10:00-last guest. This slick wine bar just off Krakowskie Przedmieście has plumped up its offer with all day breakfasts (zł.9.90, coffee or tea included) happy hours (12:00-16:00, 19:00-22:00) and sports broadcasts. Great, simple food and excellent wines from Austria and beyond.

Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open Mon- Fri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:0022:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine bar. With seating spilling out underneath the colonnades outside, this is guaranteed to be the hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place in Hoxton, London.

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 13:00-17:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European makers are impressive and the prices are very decent. BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Wine Bar” Winner Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro characterized by a casual décor and a laid-back atmosphere. Includes a seasonal menu of light dishes.

Guccio Domagoj (Żoliborz) ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 392 7438, www.winachorwackie.pl. Open Tues-Sun 12:00-22:00. A sweet and intimate little place run by a charismatic Croatian, who stocks a huge variety of wines from his homeland.

Very reasonably priced.

Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newly- opened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours.

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Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul.Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

La Passion du Vin (C4) ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0495, www.winnica.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Located in the Złote Tarasy shopping center, this chic wine bar features wines from France, South America, Israel, Italy and Australia. Sample some fine wine or treat yourself to the buy-one-get-one-free-lunch deal accompanied by a perfectly-matched wine.

Magazyn Butelek (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 412 3124.

Open daily noon-last guest. Sample wine from various regions in this laid-back wine joint. Treat yourself to some lunchtime specials or nibble on some generously portioned pincho and tapas. Great Argentine beef and international specialties.

Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes.

Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, Austria, and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats.

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Vintage (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, www.korkociag.pl, tel. 22 625 4197. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 14:00-last guest. Korkociąg is now Vintage – the décor is slightly gaudy but the impressive Hungarian wine list has stretched to include great (though pricey) selections from the rest of Europe.

Winiarnia Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 2327, www.winiarnia-kotlownia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bricks and girders lend a factory feel, while an Italian influenced menu poses plenty of dilemmas. Sunshine pours in through huge vertical windows, bathing this wine kingdom in plenty of light.

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Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award

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Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, Dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30 The Amber Room is situated in a spectacular residence in the Pałac Sobańskich, with the addition of new chef Robert Skubisz raising their stock still further.

The restaurant bagged all the top awards in the 2010 Wine & Food Noble Night, and continues to be something of an address to impress. $$$

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Atelier Amaro ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30.

Stop press: fronted by star chef Wojciech Amaro, the recent launch of Atelier Amaro hasn’t just shaken Warsaw, it’s served as the biggest wake-up call the city has ever had.

Using the latest culinary techniques, you’ll find tables at this standout restaurant booked for months in advance – we’ll be there soon with the full lowdown… $$$ Belvedere Restaurant (F8)

ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an

POLISH atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best European Cuisine” Winner Biała Gęś ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four).

As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24hr. An eat-while-you-stand venue serving up eight złoty bites specifically designed to act as emergency stomach lining for a pre/postparty crowd of vodka sinking glamour cats. $

Cuda Wianki ul. Przekorna 15 (Powsin), tel. 22 498 1508.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:0022:00. Standing at the foot of Kabaty Forest, the interiors here are simply adorable, and heavily influenced by folk art. Co-owned by a tennis pro and his parents, this family have sought to develop their own menu, based on standard Polish fare, but with twists and turns they have gathered through prior experience.

The results are excellent, especially the herring. $ Dekanta (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 22 622 4594.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat 13:00-last guest. A golden-oldies-themed eatery with a good grill and serious cocktails. Be sure to try their most popular dishes: duck and golonka. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$

Dom Polski (H4) Chłopskie Jadło (D6) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when enterprise designed to mimic a peasant nothing but the best will do. Prices are inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic premium, but this piece of high society supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re features an aristocratic temperament and after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant :DUVDZ,QVLGHUBUHNODPDB [ PP SGI lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ flourish. $$$

Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even.

There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight.

If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$ Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (C1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, tel. 22 887 6520.

Open 10:00-23:00. Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (Polish Flowers) specialises in Polish cuisine and is known for dishing out some very generous portions. The placki ziemniaczane and kopytka come highly recommended. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, 022 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last >>

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Food is our passion. Preparing, serving and enjoying a delicious meal is always inspiring.

The essential elements are: honest cooking, which can be traced back to the freshest ingredients; a great selection of wines, a welcoming atmosphere - we want our guests to feel at home, not to stand on display.

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22 Żurawia str., 00-515 Warsaw, tel. +48 (22) 502 31 18, opening times: Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00 www.butcheryandwine.pl/en, www.facebook.com/butcheryandwine

www.warsawinsider.pl

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EATING OUT >> guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Bathed in banners and propaganda the Red Hog is your one-stop shop for some socialist socializing. Dine on ‘Brezhnev dumplings’ and ‘capitalist soup’ while Cold War bigwigs gaze from the paintings above. $$ Karczma Słupska (G6) ul. Czerniakowska 127, tel. 22 841 4552.

Open daily 11:00-22:00. A jewel-of-arestaurant. After 26 years of steady operation, the charming Polish tradition and excellent food still pulls people in. $ Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 4A, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-

last guest. There’s a new reason to go to old town, and that’s Karmnik. What was once a pokey tourist restaurant has been reinvented as a hip haunt for cool cats. The menu is decent, basic Polish, but it’s the art-mosphere that gets people coming back. Expect a variety of events going off inside vaulted interiors that are frequently full. $ Literacka (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89, tel. 22 635 8995. Open 11:00-24:00. The food is decent and prices are very reasonable, but the service leaves something to be desired. With a great view of the Old Town, the location is choice. $ MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00.

Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $

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Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva who sources only the finest Polish produce. Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare bricks and violet flourishes. $$$ Nowa La Boheme (D2) pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0681, www.laboheme.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic interiors are still decidedly continental.

Well-suited for business lunches. $$ Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828 0392,

Natara Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500. Open 10:00-22:00

“ The menu posed a quandary, as Thai food often does – what to have, it all sounds so good…”

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m just rubbish with secrets, and I’m very much aware that’s there’s going to be some people drawing daggers the minute they find I’ve written about Natara – it’s precisely the kind of restaurant you want to keep yourself. The thing is, when a place is this good it’s just hard to keep schtum.

Opened earlier in the year, it’s easy to think of a better location for Natara – sat in that culinary no-man’s land that is Solidarności, the grinding gloom and honking traffic do little to alleviate the festering fears of a meal to forget. Neither does this cloud of pessimism disperse on entry. I found myself staring at what looked like a steamy, hole-in-the-wall takeout joint: “Why am I here,” mourned the cynic inside. Ushered upstairs, via a tight, creaking stairwell, I soon found my answer.

No, it won’t win style prizes, but what I saw I immediately liked. Okay, so the lights are too bright and the heating cranked to max, but everything about it spoke of a labor of love. Decorated with a few wilting orchids (phew, it’s hot) and some symbolic pics of Buddha, it’s a simple space that quickly grows on you – if anything, it’s a relief to find a place that doesn’t look so pleased with itself.

Considering the (lack of) design, the menu looks a little steep in price, and definitely on a par with Warsaw’s more established Thai eateries. Not that the couple next to me were bothered. They were having a whale of a time, an encouraging sign that suggested greatness ahead. But I’ve got to confess, the menu posed a quandary, as Thai food often does – what to have, it all sounds so good. After a brief panic in which I considered ordering everything, we settled for prawn spring rolls with chili sauce, duck in wine and a classic green curry.

The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes, that left us instantly declaring this the best Thai in town. And authentic, too.

No muck for drinks here either, but lovely Thai beers to go with the meal. I’ve always been partial to a spot of Chang, and a cold, crisp bottle allowed for time to reflect while the fireworks subsided. (AW)

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POLISH/AFRICAN/AMERICAN www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland.

Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

An extensive repertoire of traditional Polish foods that you know, from Jewish-style carp to duck with apples. The place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The service is mixed, and occasionally hostile, but prices are low. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0001:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Towering, bumper portions of animals & veg plus low-cut prices keep this place rammed, while frothing Pilsner mugs and a circulating mountain band add an element of beery, good humor. $ Polka (D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$

Restauracja Staromiejska (D1) pl. Zamkowy 15/19 in the Old Town Square, www.restauracjastaromiejska.pl, tel. 22 831 0259. Open 10:00-midnight. This restaurant serves true, traditional Polish delights. The duck stands out especially, crisp and glazed with cranberries, apples and what-not.

To finish, try the wonderful szarlotka with whipped cream and ice cream. $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$

Stary Dom (E12) ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:00Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) 23:00. This “old house” serves good old Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, traditional Polish food. The atmospheric main www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. hall features high ceilings and eye-catching The turn-of-the-century décor brings with it wooden beams; mains include rabbit, duck an indelible mark of years gone by. But even (the house special) and pork cutlets, while if the food is only satisfactory, the wine list is the desserts are divine. What sets this place pretty nice. $$ apart from other Polish restaurants are the prices. $$

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.” BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Polish Cuisine” Winner

U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians.

Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, portioned out in size XXXL at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of

beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and roast pork knuckles. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Dinner Deal” Winner Villa Nuova (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 22 885 1502, www.villanuova.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$ Winiarnia i Gospoda nad Jeziorem (Józefów) ul. Nadwiślańska 96B, tel. 667 770 790, www.nadjeziorem.pl. Open Tues-Fri 14:0021:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. One of our favorite hidden gems for a quaint afternoon or evening away from the city. Just about twenty minutes outside of the center, this lodge-style restaurant specializes in fine wines from Bordeaux and traditional Polish food. $$

african

Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $ Home Africa Bar (Wola) ul. Górczewska 67. Open 14:00-last guest.

Authenticity doesn’t only stem from the Cameroonian owner. Home Africa Bar is like an African film set in terms of interior, and food-wise, it offers traditional yams and plaintains, as well as ‘I-dare-you’ items like goat’s head. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord.

Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use.

And good luck with the gizzard. $$

american & tex-mex

Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes >>

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EATING OUT >> all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is the place to find one. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00.

Recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, the two floor HRC boasts Warsaw’s best cheeseburger and a cool staff of skater boys and rock girls. Points of interest include rock’n’roll swag from Hendrix and Madonna, as well as regular live music. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for mega-size portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Breakfast Deal” Winner Mississippi Blues (H4) ul. Meksykańska 3, tel. 605 887 857. Open Sun-Thur 12:00-20:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00.

Set down a side street in Saska, Zippy Blues is tiny, and we fully anticipate that being a problem once word gets out just how good it is. Decorated sparingly, the menu here includes homemade sauces, bread baked on-site, tasty Koreb beer as well as mains that number fantastic burgers and ribs of legend. $ Sioux ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef.

Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon

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12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are hit-and-miss, but the burgers always on-point inside this timeless tribute to the American way. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. An Insider favourite, principally thanks to brick-thick burritos that are all the better when layered with molten lava-like salsa. The barometer hits fever pitch on weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling ex-pats and lubricated students. $$

asian & indian

Annapurna (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 409 4400. Open 11:30-22:00. Bland, sterile interiors have ceded way for typical curryhouse furnishings, lending a real authenticity to one of Warsaw’s best curries. The vindaloo hits a red-hot emergency level that’s unrivaled in town, and the offer extends to Thai, Nepalese and a sprinkling of Chinese.

Arti (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123, tel. 22 626 9002, www.restauracjaarti.pl. Open daily 11:0022:30. An exhaustive selection of largely excellent Indian dishes inside a low-cost interior in the center of town. Better surroundings but the same quality are found in their ul. Francuska operation across the water. $ Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120.

Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00.

A cult budget eatery once found in the

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defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ‘95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas.

Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) ul. Starościńska 10/12, tel. 22 392 6475, www.bombajmasala.pl. A tiny backstreet curry cave in which guests sit shoulder-toshoulder while pots clang in the distance.

The food is top quality, and the prices fair.

And those looking for something a little more high-end should swerve this and instead check their new venue on Jana Pawła (see below). $$ Bombaj Masala Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up.

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:00-22:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system.

Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster.

The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-

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23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00.

The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers.

At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You

say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Galeria Bali & Buddha Bar (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 828 6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia. Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. When the service isn’t clanking around, dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $

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Ganesh Express ul. Grzybowska 61, www.ganeshexpress.pl.

Open 10:30-22:30. While their flagship on Wilcza ranks as one of Warsaw’s best curries, find the polar opposite within a hop of the Hilton. Spooned out of canteen-style containers the food here is catastrophic, so the fact the servings are so small is actually a blessing in disguise. Ganesh Express?

More like Total Ga- -sh Express. $ Herezja (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 503 074 175, www.herezja.com. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-3:00. This exotic locale lies off the beaten track in Warsaw’s central Wola district. A seasonal labyrinth of rooms decked out with elegant furnishings from all over Asia. Great for private parties.

Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza), tel. 22 658 0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Good food at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$ >>

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EATING OUT >>

India Curry (D5)

Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, ul. Żurawia 22, www.mandalaklub.com or tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00www.indiacurry.pl.

22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 While it caters to a Open daily 11:00-23:00. party crowd in the evening, this place is run Under new management, Warsaw’s most

by Nepalese chef Prakash and features a upmarket Indian restaurant is the corporate menu of authentic treats throughout the day choice for when suits want it hot. Never short of and evening. Also offers delivery through its excellent, the prawn curries are something else. India Express catering service. $ Katmandu (C5) ul. Wspólna 50/52, tel. 22 622 0026. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00.

Nepalese, Thai and Indian dishes inside a no-effort, bare bones interior. But the curries are good, and occasionally excellent; set fire to your tonsils with a chicken madras. $ Lemongrass Oriental Restaurant & Bar (E6) Al.Ujazdowskie 8, tel. 22 696 3300, www.lemongrass.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sunday brunch 12:00-16:00.

Instead of the ubiquitous pasta station, you can order your soup starter to taste and watch it be put together. The Peking Duck station offers customized oh-so-thin pancakes rolled around succulent slices of the meat, spring onions, cucumber and palm sugar sauce. Ideal for business meets. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Brunch Deal” Winner Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. At first glance you may dismiss it as another Vietnamese greasy spoon. Big mistake. It turns out this is the Warsaw branch of a global chain backed by a spiritual master (Chiang Hai).

The reading material may look a bit cultish, but the food is delicious. $ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501.

Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location.

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Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-04:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Asian Cuisine” Winner Pekin (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 4804, www.restauracjapekin.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. For a culinary trip to Beijing, you need only go as far as Pekin. The interior is a bit basic, but the food is usually very good. $$ Royal India (B3) ul. Jana Pawła II 45A, lokal 43, tel. 22 487 7077, www.royalindia.waw.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. After a brief improvement, Royal India are back to square one. “I had better curries at school,” claimed one reader in between dashes to the toilet. Neither will

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the still, solemn atmosphere improve your mood. $$

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Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-20:00. With the revamp complete and the builders gone, diners can now concentrate on good Indian standards in a cosmopolitan interior. Some claim it’s emerging as one of the top curries in town, a once optimistic opinion that’s fast gathering pace. $ Sayam (Konstancin) ul. Sienkiewicza 5, tel. 22 756 3343, www.sayam.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00.

A tropical treasure in the heart of Konstancin – Sayam serves up some satisfying pan-Asian cuisine in thoroughly fresh, modern interiors.

The summer garden is the perfect place to while away the weekends for adults and kids alike. Definitely try the sticky ribs and spring rolls. Also offers cooking classes. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Newcomer” Winner Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II ul. Walbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www. suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 022 635 3888.

Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri

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EATING OUT >> 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version.

Tobaya (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. 22 520 2222, www.tobaya.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Inside it’s like a trip to the Far East. ToBaYa stands for To – for Tokyo because you’ll find great sushi and claypots here (same proprietor as So-An sushi on Koszykowa St.), Ba – for Bangkok and the flavorful dishes of Thailand, and Ya – for Yakarta, with rare Indonesian culinary treats. Top choice for two: Pla Prik-Waan a.k.a royal gilthead baked in hot-and-sour sauce.

there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $

british

Fish & Chips (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, www.fishandchips.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:30-21:00; Sun 13:00-19:00.

One of the ex-pat hits of 2010, and now suitably enlarged to cope with the custom.

Serving fish’n’chips, battered sausage and all the staples of a dart players diet, the Yummy (D5) Anglophiles running this joint have it down ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. As the name to a tee – with the menu even including deep notes, guests can look forward to tasty Asian fried Mars Bars and Snickers. Even better, fare with a strong Vietnamese accent. Interiors they’ve a range of import goodies that run are modern and minimal, and a welcome from novelty sauces to West Country cider withdrawal from the sleazy style common (see food shops for more details). $ in most Asian haunts. The Peking duck is a strong starter, and the Pho soups are fab. $ Kogel Mogel ul. Powstancow Śląskich 106/lok5, tel. 22 408 1101, www.restauracjakogelmogel.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 11:00Banja Luka (E8) 23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. Excellent English ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, breakfasts, but why do they stop serving www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. them so early? Does the specialist breakfast Summer’s back, and with it one of the best maker go home with the sausages?? Small gardens around. Enjoy a variety of dishes from on the inside, this place has black and white Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of accents and post-modern touches, as well as the hunter’s hut style. It’s a bustling place an international menu with Brit contributions: mind, and reservations are advised. $$ the rhubarb crumble is excellent.

balkan & russian

Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul.

Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00.

This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more. Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” $ Mała Gruzja (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 40, tel. 660 880 724, www.mala-gruzja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Indulge in great Gregorian dishes in this quaint restaurant. The saciwi walnut sauce is sure to make a lasting impression, though the wines leave something to be desired. $

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U Madziara ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00.

Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but

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Legends ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

french

Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with

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the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Service” Winner L’Arc ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc. pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/ black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ La Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 622 9646, www.lapetitefranceneostrada.pl. Has a very respectable selection of cheese – from soft to hard varieties. $$ Prowansja (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 621 4258, www.prowansja.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cottage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The dishes are very imaginative in their combination of various flavors. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Warsaw’s had a long and lingering liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under- represented. This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. The lamb shank is a winner, and the mussels do more than enough to distract from the construction catastrophe clunking outside.

Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek) ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

greek & middle eastern

Bar Turecki “Efes”(H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open

BALKAN/BRITISH/FRENCH/GREEK 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$

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Fenicja ul. Świętokrżyska 32, tel. 510 759 795, www. fenicja.pl. Open 10:00-24:00 (kebab window 24hrs). Bathed in a cheap green glow you just don’t expect a restaurant of this caliber in such a low-budget setting. But it’s excellent, with an encyclopedic choice of eastern dishes enjoyed by hunched Lebanese natives whispering over plates of hummus. The locals though, seem to prefer the 24hr kebab window, home of the best post-pub soakage imaginable. $ Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Lokanta (C4) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 22 585 1004, www.lokanta.home.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-

last guest. The restaurant has built up its reputation of serving good-quality, traditional Turkish cuisine. The döner kebab will leave you full and happy and is served fast enough at lunchtime to keep up with your schedule.

Now throws Orient-inspired dance parties every weekend for Bangla fans. $$ Maho (Ochota) Al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www.maho.com.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Found in that office/residential grey zone of Ochota, Maho looks more like a drive-thru burger joint from the outside. So it’s surprising to find some of the best skewered meats in Warsaw in this Turkish locale. Basic interiors but great food and well-stocked deli. $ Meltemi (Ochota) Corner of ul. Drawska and ul. Szczęśliwicka, tel. 22 823 9868. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Serving a nouveau take on Greek, expect presentation over size, but it’s a fine escape from routine whenever you can’t get to the real thing. $$ Restauracja Flios (Ursynów) ul. Dereniowa 6, tel. 22 648 4589, www.restauracjaflios.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. The décor is OTT, but there’s little to complain about when it comes to the food.

Excellent appetizers – zesty pikilia, stuffed grape leaves, meat cutlets and some of the best fried eggplant around. $$$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National

Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira. pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:0018:00. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$

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Tawerna Patris ul. Wał Miedzeszński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus.

With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. A fantastic place for a lively group dinner. $$

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EATING OUT >>

international & fusion

Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance.

The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$ Babalu (F1) ul. Kłopotowskiego 33, tel. 22 424 6666, www.babalu.pl. Open noon-23:00. Warsaw’s first all-you-can eat locale. You pay zł. 29,99 per person and enjoy a salad and fruit bar, grilled ribs or other meats, a pick-your-owningredients flaming wok, an endless selection of pastas and sauces, dumplings from around the world, reasonable drink prices, and a children’s play area. Catering available too. $

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Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www. bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Międzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Brasserie@ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel), tel.

22 321 8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5)

ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. The steaks are beyond reproach inside B&W, a light, bright restaurant which you imagine both celebs and execs using – both mammals were present on our visit. And if the

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butchery part is spot on, so is the wine angle.

Trust the service, they know what’s best. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$ Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 826 0660, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest.

Elegant and ornate, but the menu is a tool of deception - the final results are nowhere near as tasty as they sound. $$

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Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:3022:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł.

185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$ Esencja Smaku ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:00-2:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and overhead pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. Etno ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 564 5780, www.etnoerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking rather sterile and anonymous, it’s no surprise to find Etno’s scattering of customers consisting of the grey-looking number crunchers from the offices upstairs. While it’s not exactly light on the wallet, the lunch deals make it more than worthwhile – a selected starter and main for 20-something zlots. $$

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updates

Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00.

Soon celebrating their first birthday, Flaming are being touted as one of the best places in town. In fact, some insiders claim it the best. Find a strong international offer inside interiors that could have been styled by Ralph Lauren. $$ Freta 33 (C1) ul. Freta 33/35, tel. 22 635 0931. Open 12:0023:00. Tasty dishes at reasonable prices.

Enjoy the beautiful view over the New Town Square through floor-to-ceiling windows. The pasta and salads are surprisingly tasty. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8631. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 7:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. A stylish restaurant that’s best recognized for its seriously good brunches.

See for yourself each Sunday, when zł. 165 gets you unlimited access to some top-range F&B. Turn up on Thursday night for a similar offer that’s focused on fish. $$$ Ginger (D4) ul. Zgoda 12, tel. 22 827 3003, www.ginger.com.pl. Open 24hr. The tropical interior would have looked great in the 80’s, nowadays it doesn’t. Who cares – it’s open round-the-clock, and design shortcomings can be overlooked when it’s five in the morning. International menu, with a fusion twist. $$ Green Peas ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.With Ye Goode Foode nuked into touch, it’s been left to Green Peas to wave the eco-flag. Featuring vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here – probably the healthiest in the city.

Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$

INTERNATIONAL H3 Gourmet Burger (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska, www.h3.com.

Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Okay, so it’s in a food court, but H3 are a million times superior to the immediate neighbors. Part of a Portuguese chain, bunless burgers come in a variety of choices: including one with an egg on it (eek!). Go for the mushroom one instead. $ Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka (D2) ul. Piwna 40, tel. 22 887 8764. Open daily 10:00-last guest ( the kitchen closes at 24:00). With a medieval yet chic décor, this charming restaurant in the Old Town is, among some others, a good choice. $$ Kultura ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel.

784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00.

An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream

team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Cooking becomes art in La Rotisserie, an impeccable restaurant with a sterling rep. Bossing it all is Paweł Oszczyk, a doyenne of the local culinary scene, and his interpretations of French cuisine prove second-to-none. $$$ Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number

one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1823. Open daily: 6:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 18:00-23:00.

Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavorful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from one of Warsaw’s top hotels – excellent. $$$ Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.

Meza Restaurant (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Hotel). Open daily 6:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka.

The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing >>

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EATING OUT >> liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destination to follow. $$ Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc).

Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$ Papu (D9) Al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, www.restauracjapapu.pl. Open daily 10:00last guest. The elegant décor, complimented by fantastic staff, all combine to make this a relaxing and romantic experience. $$$

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updates

roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak.

The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ R20 (F5-6)

Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$ Piony Poziomy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter on ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 406 4496, www.pionypoziomy.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Consisting of creative Mediterranean dishes, the menu is packed with what can only be described as culinary revelations. It’s got a welcome atmosphere, something squared off by relaxing background music and a friendly staff. The food is excellent, not a weak point to criticize, and perfectly complimented by a price/quality ratio that’s too good for words.

Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has

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ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 07:30-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$-$$$ Studio Buffo (E5) ul. M. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 22 339 0775, www.studiobuffo.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:3023:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-23:00. Famous for its shows, Studio Buffo should not be forgotten for its food. It’s a popular place with arty types, and the menu offers tasty mains. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$

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BEST WAWA 2010 “Best International Cuisine” Winner Restaurant Strauss (C4) Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2834, www.strauss.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-16:00, 18:00-22:30, Sat-Sun 18:00-22:30. The owners tell us that they’ve totally revamped not only the interior, but also the menu and it now sports European cuisine. $$ Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl. Open Sun-Thur 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. Fusion food, top cocktails and the restobar concept: it all started here, or at least it did where Warsaw is concerned. Years on and Sense is still a market leader, with a menu that’s perfect bait for the hot lookers who come here – try the flame-grilled lamb chops, or one of several wok choices. $$ Sofa Clubistro (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 28 (entrance from ul. Nowogrodzka 56), tel. 22 626 1415, www.sofa.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Take jazz, soften the edges and mix it with exotic food.

The result is Sofa. Excellent Panzerotti with artichokes and amazing ice-cream. $$ Solec (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Spotkanie (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 2, tel. 22 839 3069, www.spotkanie.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Stylish, low-key décor, delicious, light salads and decent mains – the Romanov beef steak in mushroom and pepper sauce is simply excellent. $$ St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 22 826 3008, www.stantonio.pl. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the place

INTERNATIONAL gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$

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Theatro 1811 ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open 12:00-23:00. The menu is a balance of international influences, and includes a selection of ‘Thai pasta’ and a lovely creation called Chicken Barbara. Finally open after what seems like a year of work, the elaborate interiors reflect the Foksal location. $$$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Literally translated as ‘with the cooks’, you find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, with food served straight from the pots. Some are calling this the best meal in Warsaw, and it’s certainly up there…. even if the cocktails aren’t. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Lunch Deal” Winner Valadier (C9)

ul. Łowicka 16, tel. 22 224 5454, www.valadier.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Set in an elegant mansion this aristocratic choice comes fronted by Paweł Żółtanski, and he’s mixed French, Italian and Polish styles to come up with an exclusive menu that reads like a royal banquet: guinea fowl, pigeon and quail to name just some examples. $$$ Villa Czersk (Czersk) ul. Warszawska 23, tel. 22 736 2188, www.villaczersk.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Found 30 clicks south of Warsaw, VC gets a spoonful of extra points for setting; a mock Tuscan villa in walking distance from the ruined castle in Czersk. Ideal following a visit to the aforementioned, this restaurant has a formal air and an important sounding internationa/Mediterranean menu that specializes in fish – the mussels are fantastic. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest.

The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw.

It comes as no surprise that they are often fully-booked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$

produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$ You and Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, www.youandmebar.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:3024:00; Fri 8:30-2:00, Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Serving up a pretty attractive selection of food. The interiors of this café/bar look very modern, and the bold crimson decor makes it a hot spot for a date. $$ Zaułek Smaków – Winiarnia Portius (Żoliborz) ul. Felińskiego 52, tel. 22 839 8681, www.zauleksmakow.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Located in a beautiful area in old Żoliborz, it offers unique mixture of Hungarian, Italian and Polish cuisine and guarantees something for everyone. $ Zen Jazz Bistro (D3) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 2500, www.jazzbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00- 24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00. The menu at Zen Jazz Bistro is rather lengthy, but the dishes are up to the expectation the delectable descriptions create. The tuna steak in teriyaki isn’t great, but everything else is pretty much on the money. $$

Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an Żużu (D9) off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs. ul. Kazimierzowska 43, entrance from Making use of unrefined oils and organic ul. Różana, tel. 22 646 4585, www.bistro-zuzu. >>

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EATING OUT >> pl. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-21:00. Żużu is hidden away in Mokotów, but well worth tracking down. The Panga/Sole Fillet served with white and wild rice risotto, saffron sauce and Tian vegetables is an excellent main dish. $

italian

Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed. A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 8303, www.bacio. pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. Handwritten menus yield such goodies as spinach gnocchi and pear in mascarpone. Great pastas too and wine selection. The Bacio chain extends to other locations on Wilcza 8 and Ciszewskiego 15. $$ Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $ Castello (Wilanów) ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885 7505, www.castello.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Excellent food. Recommendations include the penne alla norcina and frutti di mare pizza. $$$ Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 828 0222, www.kregliccy.pl/chianti.php. Open 12:0023:00. We recommend trying the salmon pasta, and the tiramisu and pannacotta for dessert. During the week, standards stay high as the chef doles out excellent salads and pasta. $$ Da Aldo ul. Mickiewicza 23, tel. 22 869 0937. Open 12:00-23:00. Head chef Stefano has launched a heap of top name restaurants, and while Da Aldo is a more modest affair, there’s some-

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thing clearly right in the kitchen. Seafood is recommended here, and with mussels season in full swing you’ve no excuse to miss it. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talked-about venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$ Dominos Al. Jana Pawła 45A (also at Bukowińska 26C), tel. 22 209 0002, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back!

Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/ delivery only (unless you count the standup table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. $ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Wine Bar” Winner Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828 2605, www.gar.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria.

The pizza pies are excellent with thin-crust and hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $ Giancarlo Ristorante Italiano (Służew) ul. Rzymowskiego 34, tel. 22 549 6501, www.giancarlo.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. Everything you’d expect from an Italian restaurant. Frequented by local restaurant critics and TV cooks, one look at the restaurant’s menu is enough to get you feeling very hungry indeed. Go for the heavenly sole

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in gorgonzola-spinach sauce. $$$ Giovanni Rubino (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 37, tel. 22 826 2788, www.giovanni.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. With satisfying salads and a pretty good thin-crust pizza, Giovanni Rubino is the Insider’s pick for when you’re looking for a quick late-nite bite in the Old Town area. $ Il Caminetto (Saska Kępa) ul. Zwycięzców 46, tel. 22 672 5596, www.ilcaminetto.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

This unexpected spot houses a fantastic Italian restaurant with authentic pastas and mains. A secret fave among the Italiano set, with the mezzelune dello chef and ravioloni ai quattro formaggi highly recommended. $ La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 331 6798, www.lacantina.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest.

Mediterranean dishes with pastas, seafood and meat dishes and a large variety of pizza from a wood-fired oven. $

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La Tomatina ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun- Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. You get the idea not even the A Team can save these guys. They’ve been open for minutes, but have already found themselves universally slammed by bloggers, critics and foodies alike. Surely it can’t be that bad? Watch this space for our verdict next month. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30.

Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$ Oregano (Białołęka Dworska) ul. Bohaterów 14, tel. 22 425 5964, www.oregano-restauracja.pl. Open Mon-Thurs & Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Just about 25 minutes drive from the center, this lovely villa houses a cozy Italian restaurant with a menu that’s traditional but also very

ITALIAN creative, put together by award-winning chef Anna Martynowska. Highly recommended for a weekend brunch/dinner jaunt. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00.

The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pepperoni (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 10, tel. 022 839 6961. Open 11:00-23:00. Colourful and stylish pizza parlour with 43 varieties of pizza to choose from, and a selection of pastas, soups and salads. $$ Piccola Italia (Ochota) ul. 1 Sierpnia 46, www.piccolaitalia.pl, tel. 22 846 8737. Open 12:00-23:00. The wood-fired oven brings out some of the best pizza in town, especially for fans of the vegetariana. $ Pizzeria na Barskiej (C6) ul. Barska 37, tel. 22 822 2750. Open daily 12:00-22:00. We’re told that this restaurant serves the best pizza in the city. Check it out and decide for yourself. A wide selection of huge pizzas ensure the return of many patrons. $ Pizzeria na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498 8877, www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun

13:00-22:00. A back street haunt that earns its stripes for excellent pizza – but better ring your order, with staff this sour it pays to keep contact minimal. $

delightful tomato sauce, fresh toppings and just the right amount of cheese. $ Ristorante Balgera (E8) ul. Rejtana 14, tel 022 849 5674, www.balgera.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. Enjoy succulent and hearty Italian pastas and steaks, sip rich Cabernet Sauvignon and treat your taste buds to a slice of decadent Tiramisu. $$$

Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 622 6762, www.poezja.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink with shrimp as a main. $$

Ristorante Il Sole (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 22 653 6484, www.ilsole.com.pl. Open 11:00-24:00.

Cut-price lunch deals draw in suited crowds from the offices upstairs, while modern, cosmopolitan interiors further stroke the corporate feel. The food won’t win prizes – neither will the servers – but it’s not a bad haunt if you’re working locally. $$

Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Quattro Canti Trattoria (Wilanów) Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman ul. Syta 120, tel. 509 644 559, frescos this space is almost magisterial in www.quattrocanti.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well Brave the nondescript entrance to enjoy tasty worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the Italian classics in a simple trattoria setting. Try ground floor features the same standards at a the Mafioso pizza, the vitello tonato main and snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italgorgonzola spinach on the side. $ ian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Rimini Pizza (Ursynów) ul. Roentgena 1 (corner of ul. Pileckiego), tel. 22 641 9544, www.rimini.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. The pizzas are made in full view, and they are near-perfect: Italian-style crust,

Roma (multiple locations) ul. Grottgera 2 (ul.Belwederska 17), ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 826 7676, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-

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EATING OUT >> 21:00. Good food and charming Italianthemed décor – wine bottles and grapevines strewn about this intimate restaurant. Feast on a meaty Boscaiola or Carbonara. A bit kitsch but the prices are good and the staff are sweet. $$ Roma Bukieteria (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 621 0311, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. $$ Rusticoni Restaurant (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni.pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Sapori d’Italia (Ursynów) ul. Dembego 10 lok. U5, tel. 888 231 030, www.sapori-ditalia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00. Recommended dishes include the tuna salad, a vibrant mix of tuna fish, salad, green olives and tomatoes enlivened by a creamy dill sauce and the deliciously tender Dourade fish. The food is well-worth the trip out to this slightly remote restaurant. $$ Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Serving classic Italian favorites including pizza, pasta and risotto, this restaurant has something for everyone.

The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended.

Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval.

Va Bene Ristorante (A9) ul. Pruszkowska 13, tel. 22 824 5060,

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www.vabene.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The restaurants offer a traditional Italian menu and the family atmosphere and menu (pizzas, pastas and ice-cream) make this place suitable for both kids and parents. $$ Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356 1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00.

What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation?

The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00.

Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$ Włoska Robota (Ochota) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463.

Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0023:00. Squirreled away in Park Szczęśliwicki in Ochota, the forte of the establishment is the home-made pasta. The menu is otherwise a cookie-cutter range of pizza with the usual range of toppings. If you’re after baked dough the “panuozzo” sandwiches are real winners just be prepared to wait a while. $

japanese & sushi

Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. Compared to competitors it

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looks a little unassuming, almost faded. The sushi is spot on though, and unlike some rivals they haven’t gone for the cut-price Polish chef option. $$ Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$ Besuto Sushi Bar (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 28 (pavilion 2), tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Set in the maze of pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto looks distinctly at odds with the skaggy, shaggy bars in direct proximity. Featuring a jarring black/green design, the sushi is regarded as a bargain deal in a city where raw fish is commonly associated with premium prices. $ Doozo (D4) ul. Bracka 18, tel. 22 828 18 19, www.doozo.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 13:30- 20:00. A tiny, two-floor sushi emporium with a modern look and segregated VIP section. Check their ‘sticks’, tasty meat and fish options spiked onto skewers. $$ Gugo Sushi (Wilanów) ul. Nałęczowska 60, tel. 22 394 5480, www.gugosushi.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0021:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. Fresh ingredients and wide selection of traditional items and modern creations from the classic and fusion menus make this new sushi spot in Wilanów worth checking out. $$ Hana Sushi Jasna Centre (D3) Jasna Centre, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. 22 826 8585, www.hanasushi.pl.

Open 12:00-23:00. This new location of Hana Sushi combines sleek Japanese minimalism with an air of decadence, and serves food as fresh and attractive as the presentation. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955.

Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00).

Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open

SUSHI 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$

Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. 22 828 0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$

Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel.

607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$

The Place (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 4517, www.theplacesushi.pl. Open daily 12:00- last guest. Great sushi at (surprisingly) great prices and other Japanese specialties in a slick setting. Plus delicious vegetarian options too. $

Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery (D2) ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. 22 892 0901, www.kiku.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A rather well-designed place with lots of Japanese-inspired furnishings. This restaurant, run by a Korean staff, offers far more than good sushi: tasty glassy noodles and udon soups too. $

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Maguro ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 22 621 7460, www.magurosushi. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00.

The day’s sushi selection sails past on boats in this Wilcza stalwart, and from what we’ve seen, then yes, it should float your boat as well. $$

Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Some call it the best sushi in the city, and they may have a point.

Practice nimble chopstick tricks alongside other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00.

The Sushi 77 chain is surprisingly consistent with the quality of its dishes. The Żelazna location is a favourite, with simple decor, friendly service and great sushi. Check out the Ursynów location for noodle dishes too. $$ Sushi Teatr (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 4787,

INDIA CURRY tel. 22 438 93 50/51, Żurawia 22 Street

www.sushiteatr.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle.

Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Sushi” Winner Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Tsubame (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 635 8667, www.tsubame. pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A great place for confidential conversation; frequently empty, the sushi is actually fine, just nowhere near the standard set in their former home on Foksal. $$ >>

The real taste of India www.indiacurry.pl

Business lunch 25 pln

New menu!

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EATING OUT >> Yoko Sushi (Praga) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, (Promenada Mall, 3rd Floor), tel. 22 611 3535, www.yokosushi.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

With a hip-Japan vibe and a cool factor that if off-the-meter, this is a perfect place for metrosexuals and hip urban couples. $$

kosher & jewish

U Samuela (B1) ul. Stawki 2, tel. 22 692 6217, www.restauracjausamuela.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-22:00. If nothing else, it’s worth coming here for views that stretch right across town. Set on Floor 38, the Jewish/European menu is inevitably overshadowed by glittering sights outside.

With plenty of pork dishes on show, the Jewish authenticity is largely suspect. $$

latin

Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

A lasting legend and an ex-pat darling – not least with the brunch bunch on a sweaty, summer Sunday. Appealing to all ages, this place is as good as ever. The fajitas are DIY food at its best, and taste all the better with a jug of margarita. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Latin Cuisine” Winner Carmona (B2) ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 1919, www.carmona.pl. Open 8:00-23:00. Set in an increasingly happening section of new money Mokotów, find the daily tapas chalked up on a blackboard inside a modern interior featuring midnight colors and top-to-bottom windows. Worth the look if you’re next door. $

margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ El Toro Steakhouse ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www. eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there. There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł. 157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$ Espana To Tu (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, tel. 22 892 0025, www.espanatotu.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

The younger, more elegant sister of Casa To Tu, find this more formal version in a courtyard off the main drag. Food reports are inconsistent, though we can vouch for the gazpacho. The interior looks the business as well, with a warren of warm chambers decorated in an inimitable Iberian style. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00.

Both the location and the design have been nailed, and while the salsa lacks teeth, the food is slowly approaching the level set by the more established haunts in the Latin class. Good burgers, as well. $$ Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www.portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$

Cuatro Caminos ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 493 8748, www.cuatro-caminos.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Winning blanket approval for what’s sometimes regarded as the best Spanish choice in Warsaw, Cuatro Caminos feature a scattering of selected mains and some excellent tapas in a prime location for an after-work meet. $$

Tapa y Toro (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Trasy Shopping Mall, level -1). Open 10:00- last guest. Tapas fans rejoice! With the full range of tastes Tapa y Toro is a great place to peck away on authentic Spanish nibbles, even more so if you bag a seat outside; eye candy heaven.

The only downside seems to be the toilet, a sickly, stinky affair shared with the rest of the mall. $$

El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely

Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-

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22:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:0024:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00.

Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$

seafood

Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

specialty food shops

African Shop ul. Wilcza 51, tel. 507 247 292, www.afroeuro.eu. Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection.

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00.

Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Cash only, with a second branch in Wilanów (ul. Kostki Potockiego, open Sat 10:00-15:00).

Fish & Chips ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 692 240 804, www.fishandchips.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:30-21:00; Sun 13:00-19:00. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc.

Internet ordering also available.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations, check: www.krakowskikre-

KOSHER/LATIN/SEAFOOD/DELIS dens.pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Petit France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00.

Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb.

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www. maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal

certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

MeiAsia ul. Kilińskiego 3, tel. 22 402 13 07, www.meiasia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00.

A top Asian spot just off the fringes of Old Town. Featured products from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand and Singapore. Sauces, noodles, snacks and oils, as well as a small stand with fresh fish and seafood.

jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes.

Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices.

Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, Sicilian marzipan, coffee from Florence and Oliver from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France.

Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939.

Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

Polna Market ul. Polna 13. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West.

And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers (whose happy to accept special orders), and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell

Samira al. Niepodległości 213, tel. 22 825 0961, www. samira.pl. Lebanese goods inc. chickpeas, grape leaves, flatbreads, pomegranate syrup, hummus, olives, dips etc. Good budget food also served on-site.

Holiday Fillers!

The definitive Christmas stop for those stocking the pantry in expectation of Santa.

As the name suggests, La Fromagerie’s offer covers a range of French, Dutch, Swiss and English cheeses. And with the countdown to Christmas in full swing, pop by to check their seasonal specials, in particular cheeses topped with cranberries, truffles and nuts. There’s more to this place than cheese alone, and you’ll also find crackers, exclusive chocolate brands, gourmet coffee as well as wine, conserves, marmalade and meats imported from abroad.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00.

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NIGHTOWL PROFILE

THE MUSIC MAN

Neil Milton arrived in Poland on a freezing day of January 2010. Scottish by birth, he’s a composer, musician, DJ and photographer, as well as the owner and creative mind behind Too Many Fireworks record label.

What did Glasgow teach you?

I think Glasgow taught me to DJ and it taught me photography. Also, for a few years I ran a club night there called “Fire: Works”. I guess it’s where I learned to DJ. I play electrodiscowonkpop, which basically means that anything could appear in my DJ sets, from Marilyn Manson to Abba.

Where did Too Many Fireworks come from?

So, it’s the name of my record label and it came about by chance. Fireworks would appear in many songs that I listened to when I was younger, such as Last night, I missed all the Fireworks by Idlewild or Fireworks by Aereogramme. One night a friend said, a little sarcastically, “there are just too many fireworks”. It began as a joke but became my life.

What excites you in life?

Haha, it’s not a great secret – music! Recently, I heard a song that made me literally bubble up with excitement. I get this sort of feeling all the time when I compose, write, discover, review, listen to and perform music. My mission seems to be to evangelize music!

What are the three things that you miss in Scotland?

First, Irn Bru – it’s a Scottish soft drink full of fruity chemistry. Second, my wee niece. Thirdly, I think the unique landscape of Scotland.

If Warsaw was a sound, what would it be?

Its sounds pretentious but I think it’d be Chopin’s second scherzo in B flat minor – it was one of the first pieces I heard at the Chopin concerts in Łazienki, after coming to Warsaw. I think in musical terms – I imagine a place or an event and its music or a sound that comes to mind.

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Where’s your dream Warsaw party?

I think I’d play a concert on the viewing terrace of the Palace of Culture. I’d play a show on piano accompanied by a string quartet. It’d be a small, intimate thing and I’d invite around 50 people. I think it would be lovely to have the ice sculptures I once saw on that roof in my first winter here – they were very pretty.

They melted a bit in the daytime and froze again through the night.

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Warsaw at night – define.

Warsaw has a great clubbing scene and I’ve had fun DJing some great parties here but I think it lacks the strong independent music scene that places like Glasgow, Manchester and Reykjavík boast. I love the café culture in Warsaw and there are some lovely places to listen to jazz and classical music. Where else in the world can you listen to Chopin for free every single weekend during the whole summer?

What’s Santa bringing you?

Can Santa bring me a String Quartet? That would be a great wee present to get.

Neil is looking for string players to play alongside.

Contact him at toomanyfireworks@gmail.com.

PHOTOGRAPH BY NEIL DOUGLAS

Your first day in Warsaw. Describe.

It was a very cold and a very exciting January day, with crystal air and a gorgeous, clear sky.

GOING OUT Bars, Pubs & Clubs

THIS MONTH:

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6 updates

SECTIONS bars & pubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 56

jazz clubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p.59

clubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 59

Insider’s Pick

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF TEKTURA

HOT FIND

Bar Tektura ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 604 642 604. Open 12:00-last guest.

S

ummer saw Warsaw hit a purple patch I’ve not seen for a number of years – how many new places opened? A little less than a zillion on the last head count. But that in itself wasn’t what surprised me, it was the quality. Some of them really were good, and from that number I’d call Beirut the best.

Unfortunately, I wasn’t the only person who thought so, and within weeks of launching finding a seat became a cutthroat affair. Thank God then that they’ve finally opened an overspill venue. It’s called Bar Tektura, and it’s become my new after-work haunt. But hey, good luck finding it online. This place is still so hot-off-the-press that enquiries on Pan Google leave him scratching his head and asking if you’re actually looking for a chap called Bart Ektura.

Now I’m sure Bart Ektura is one helluva’ guy, but he’s clearly not a patch on his namesake hangout. This place is special, with a hypercool look anchored by a load of brick and cardboard features serving

“ This place is special, with a hyper-cool look anchored by brick and cardboard features as the main decorative element”

as the main decorative element. Yes, I did say cardboard, and you’ll find it liberally employed to serve as napkin holders, light fittings (fire hazard, surely?), even in the principal signage outside – and that’s not to mention an ornamental bison’s head hanging by the entrance.

Yup, the design here is fantastic, with additional touches including taps for coat hangers and some Banksy-style wall art. It’s all very creative, and creativity is something clearly encouraged amongst guests – find pencils sitting on each table, with sheets of paper fastened down with thick elastic bands.

Aesthetically it’s a masterstroke, and without all the pillars and decoys of neighboring Beirut, the floor plan feels distinctly more spacious than the daddy bar next door. But what with the F&B situation? Well, that’s where this place gets even better. Food-wise, check out the ‘Polish tapas’ that sit behind the glass counter on the bar; at four zlots a pop they’re the perfect partner for the drinks on offer. And my, what drinks. Aside from a smattering of regional beers, the best news comes in the form of Estonian cider. I’ve no idea what it’s called, but trust me, it’s a high impact tipple that hits the right notes. (AW) >>

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GOING OUT >>

bars & pubs

updates

Absurd 228 ul. Puławska 228, tel. 22 252 0401. Open Tue-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-20:00.

Upmarket, but with an industrial twist, Absurd could yet emerge as the number one concert venue for alternative sounds. The Mokotów location makes it a gamble, but the live music is popular with creatives.

www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. As the big, copper vats suggest, they brew their own lager. And well. There’s four to choose from, and they come served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring scarlet colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), this double level bar looks a good bet to break the duopoly of local microbreweries.

Flow (D4) ul. Chmielna 2, tel. 519 300 068. Open Sun-Thur 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-last guest.

Undistinguishable from a British high street chain bar, the principal boon here is the massive smoking section. Otherwise it’s negative points all round: from over-priced cocktails to dismal DJs, this place has disaster written on it in big red letters.

Alibi (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 22, tel. 22 629 2523. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00.

Another newish sports bar, Alibi’s strength lies in plenty of TVs (Sky Sports, yep), a generous floor plan, matey owner and a smoking area that’s seriously flexible. Oh, the location is grand central as well.

Browarmia (C3)  ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. The location alone means this place is never short on footfall. Even so, you get the impression it’d prosper wherever; certainly not as consistent as Bierhalle, Warsaw’s other microbrewery still runs a close second.

Huśtawka (D4) ul. Bracka 20A. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 16:00-last guest. A raw cultish hangout, popular with a non-conformist crowd who know how to party. Allegedly inspired by 80’s New York City, find this labyrinthine late-nighter in a courtyard palace.

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Cafe Kulturalna (C4)  Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, tel. 504 320 497, www. barwarszawa.pl. Open 24hrs. Yet one more of these places that’s imitated Przekąski Zakąski with 8zł bites and 4zł booze. Like the rest, it’s gone for a half-vintage look with staff in cloth caps and braces, and pics of old Warsaw. Size goes in their favor, and it’s already attracting overspill from people squashed out of the aforementioned original.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. The interiors are hip and happening, with walls layered with cult album covers, documentary film posters and a couple pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv across the road).

Lebanese themed, the beer is nonetheless Lithuanian and Belgian, while the staff have an exotic look and elaborate hair. Brilliant.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues.

Bratnia Szatnia (C4) pl. Defilad 1, www.bratniaszatnia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bar, cafe, club, concert space – it’s all those and more. Set in the Palace of Culture, this place has everything from DJs and concerts to tango classes and art happenings. No surprise then to find a crowd of hip, urban media sorts staking claim to the seating.

Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990,

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Chłodna 25 (B3)  ul. Chłodna 25/Żelazna 75A, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. A cult bar with arty performances and a battered look.

The sense of community is strong here, with thesps, students and musicians gathering on the summer patio to tonk back the Ciechan.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. Scaremongers and dodgy websites claim this place as closed – lies!

Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00.

Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

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Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different. Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism.

Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jimmy Bradley’s Irish Pub (C4)  Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradley.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. A firm ex-pat bulwark, and certainly the best pint of Guinness in the city. Built on a firm foundation of live sports, free-flowing beer and rapid fire banter this is every inch your trademark Irish pub. Come weekend, few places capture the ex-pat spirit better.

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Kafefajka ul. Nowy Świat 22/28. Open 12:00-last guest An atmospheric haunt found in the warren of bars behind Nowy Świat. Water pipes are the

BARS & PUBS specialty here, with thick clouds of scented smoke obscuring the horseplay Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to.

Klub City (B2) al. Jana Pawła II 43A, tel. 22 636 92 46, www.klubcity.pl. Open 17:00-2:00. A newish gay venue set under the pavilions on JP2.

The highlights here are the beer – Mazowieckie and Dawne – as well as a total absence of the preening fauxmosexuals of Warsaw’s more elite haunts. Find erotic art clinging to the walls, and karaoke and drag shows performed intermittently.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640.

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Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

their special mix, PRL-style orangeade.

Lokal Użytkowy (D1) ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. 22 635 6838.

Open Fri-Sat 18:30-23:30. This arty locale features swan white walls, graphic art and red, squeaky chairs from which to enjoy hard-to-find beers from CEE – Svyturys and Noteckie, for instance. It’s almost tempting to stick around for the weird events that unfold. Didgeridoo concert, anyone?

Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D2) ul. Nowy Świat 63, tel. 509 643 639.

Open Sun-Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat, 11:00-5:00.

A student heavy, socialist leaning hangout, where laptops and portfolios are seen as must-have accessories. Pretty vast, but usually packed with hipsters straining to listen to seminars and screenings.

Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English.

Meta (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 826 4513. Open 11:00-6:00. Decorated with Brezhnev-era leftovers this commie-themed venue has everything from propaganda posters to a string of toilet rolls hanging from the wall.

Blend in with the wobbly legged party monsters by mixing Żołądkowa vodka with

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Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. Housed on floor 40 of the Marriott Hotel, the Panorama Bar has ditched it’s crass, Dallas style, and gone for a svelte, chic look that wouldn’t be amiss in a VIP club room. A romantic must, and all the better for its dazzling views; you can almost touch the top of the Palace of Culture outside.

Paparazzi (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-1:00, Fri 12:00-2:00, Sat-Sun 18:002:00. Poland’s first cocktail chain, and a market leader to this day. Find a dressed-to-

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GOING OUT >> kill crowd of jet set glamour cats prowling the bar, as well as a smoking section that encompasses everything but the entrance.

BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Night Out-Bar” Winner

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Pardon To Tu Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest.

A fab Insider discovery snuck to the side of the Jewish Theater. Doubling as a record shop, find the crimson interiors dusted with album covers, mismatching seats and tilted lampshades. Giving it an extra lift are a knockout beer selection and unpredictable schedule of equally unpredictable live performances: ‘the improvised live music’ is occasionally great.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it. With the weather warming up, don’t be surprised to find the shenanigans spilling onto the concourse outside.

Pochwała Niekonsekwencji ul. Grójecka 118, tel. 22 823 1898. Open 10:00-1:00. As avant-garde as they come, you’d expect this sort of place in Praga, not the heart of Ochota. Filled with dog-eared books and contemporary art you’ll find the day’s offers chalked on the blackboard; among them, gourmet beers from obscure, offbeat breweries.

Porto Praga ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

Some of Poland’s best cocktails knocked up by a crew of pros who know their trade inside out. Looking slinky smooth, PP is a one-stop destination: a top restaurant and bar shaken into one.

Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am.

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Pub Lolek (B8)  ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:00-03:00. The outdoor patio is packed in the summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling, while in winter a basic timber interior fills out come weekends.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997.

Open 12:00-last guest. One of the best designs of 2011, with pretty much all interior features made from reusable materials: seats from shopping trolleys, tables from street signs and a bar from books. Shame about the one dimensional beer choice, therefore.

Sense (D4)  ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. Everything you see you’ll want to stroke. Design elements include natural stone and cool lighting, though the real draw here are the drinks; enjoy elaborate cocktails fixed by an exhibitionist staff.

Sketch (E4)  ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors.

Sofa ul. Emilii Plater 28 (enter from Nowogrodzka 56), tel. 22 626 1415, www.sofa.waw.pl.

Open 8:30-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:0022:00.Long and narrow, here’s a haunt that just goes on and on and on. Decorated with plush, deep sofas, black and white cityscapes and polished wood flooring , it’s position and it’s look make it the perfect after-work joint.

SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 022 450 6707.

Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. SPE have a new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs.

Spotkanie z Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But

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when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

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Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A. Here’s one to look forward to. Set to open in mid-December, this place is the brainchild of Norbert and Bartek, the chaps behind the cult Warszawa Powiśle.

But don’t expect another venue for cool kids.

This is set to be an over-21 bar, with exclusive world whisky served by bow-tied lackeys. Full review next issue.

Szparka (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370.

Open 24hrs. It looks like a generic, city center bar, and while no longer a hip, happening haunt it’s as popular as ever with a middleaged crowd. Set on numerous levels, its open hours alone demand Szparka’s inclusion to any Going Out list.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00.

More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

A renovated railway ticket booth now houses one of Warsaw’s coolest bars. Organic beers, cheap shots, great music and a huge crowd of revellers spilling into the street makes it a great stop for those who want to avoid the club scene.

Wiatraki (D4) ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 828 4034.

Open daily 11:00-22:00. A backstreet, Dutch-owned haunt where great snacks and sandwiches are overshadowed only by the beer – find a series of gourmet Benelux beers inside this friendly, two-floor operation.

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Znajomi Znajomych ul. Wilcza 58a, www.znajomiznajomych. waw.pl Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what sort of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs

JAZZ CLUBS/CLUBS instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its element, with a set of chambers decorated in retro 70’s style – including one which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

Tygmont Jazz Club (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00.

For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics. Soulful rhythms and straightforward décor characterize this laid-back music club.

jazz clubs

clubs

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Jazzarium ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 601 327 634. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last gues; Sat 18:00-last guest.

Owned by Mariusz Adamiak, Jazzarium is certainly the most serious of Warsaw’s jazz venues, with a reportoire that reflects the proprietor’s standing in the music biz. What looks like a pretty ordinary cafe, transforms the moment there’s a concert.

Jazzownia Liberalna (D1)  ul. Jezuicka 1/3 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 635 3769. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This place seems to have it all – location, great music, tasty chic fusion cuisine and prices that won’t intimidate.

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1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. The most talked about dance space of 2010, and further evidence that Warsaw is catching up with Berlin when it comes to urban cool. Decorated with graffiti squiggles and industrial leftovers this warehouse space has acquired a name for dawn-till-dusk electro events.

The Bank (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 14, www.bankclub.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 18:00-24:00; Fri 18:00-06:00; Sat 22:00-6:00. With four bars spread across 1,500 meters of dance space The Bank makes an impression alright. The place is huge,

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though you won’t need GPS to track down the lookers.

Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. A massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, over-the-top décor and regal staircases.

Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events.

BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub. com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors.

Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but >> every weekend, it manages to draw in big

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GOING OUT >> crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits.

The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open WedFri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest.

The crowd is smoking hot, with a cutthroat door policy that sees egos crash and burn at the entrance. Run by the same team behind Platinium, the high jinks and capers are best observed from behind the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Hunters’ (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 606 393 540, www.huntersclub.pl. Open 22:00-6:00.

Rising from the ashes of what was once Utopia is Hunters’, a high-end venue whose entry policy is every bit as daunting as that of the prior occupants. Aimed at a glam, fox-tailed crowd, this basement dance zone features factory grey colours interspersed with murals of tux-clad deer and ornamental mirrors. With nights like Gay Cum Back, it’s very much the VIP gay/straight/confused venue of choice.

Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin

& Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty?

Then check Luztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucereyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience.

Your head will hate you.

Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine, with a young, slinky crowd lapping up sounds from Warsaw’s upcoming DJs. BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Night Out-Club” Winner Ósmy dzień tygodnia (G9) ul. Czerska 12, tel. 508 111 221. Open daily 18:00-last guest. A huge, grungey dive club that’s become the latest hit among the uni-generation. Graffiti-clad walls, warehouse trappings and a mega loud sound system complete the look. Entertainment ranges from hip hop sets and avant-garde film, to performances by esoteric bands.

www.kafefajka.com Warsaw Nowy Świat 26/28 lok.20 Oboźna 9 lok.101

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Piekarnia (A1) ul. Młocińska 11, www.pieksa.pl. Check Web for events. Go back a couple of dog years and you’d have heard some clubbers hailing Piekarnia as one of the best nights in CEE. So what went wrong? Well, the old faces grew up and went elsewhere. They’re being replaced by a new generation, and while Piekarnia has a long way to recover the glories of the past, we’re starting to hear good things once more. House, trance and electro enjoyed by a diverse spread of club characters.

Platinium (D3)  ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, wwwplatiniumclub.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00, Fri 12:00-5:00, Sat 16:00-5:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:00-6:00.

A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks.

*

Theatro ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open Wed-Sat 18:00-6:00. A neon-lit basement space with smashed-glass surfaces and exotic undertones. Expect a top-dollar crowd slinking to the sounds of a bloke called Nobis.

TILL YOU DROP Boutiques, Fashion & Shopping Malls SECTIONS fashion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 62

home decor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 64

shopping malls. . . . . . . . . . . . p. 64

Insider’s Pick “ The clothes are chic, cut well and there’s a bit of everything for everyone…”

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF REYKJAVIK DISTRICT

HOT FIND

Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 339 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00.

S

olec 18/20 is known to most of those 21 and younger as 1,500 sq/m - an artsy clubbing compound that hosts everything from flashy magazine events to underground parties with Berlin DJs. But it’s also gradually spreading its wings to become a funky destination for those in search of something interesting and original - fashion and other creative businesses that are off the beaten track.

Once you walk through the somewhat shabby main gate, veer to the left and walk up the staircase to enter the Reykjavik District. There is, however, a nice surprise along the way. Basically, Reykjavik is a shop within a shop! The very trendy Love & Trade boutique plays host to its younger, albeit slightly more conservative, cousin. While Love & Trade presents colorful contemporary styles from some of Poland’s brightest new design talents in womenswear (Green Establishment, Ania Kuczyńska, Mozcau by Justin Iloveu, BOHO and Konrad Parol), Reykjavik presents a very sophisticated collection of high-end suits

and shirts designed by upcoming designer Olly Lindal.

Olly and his wife opened the shop after moving to Warsaw from Iceland, where he’d started his career as a designer. He decided to continue his business in Poland after friends started to compliment him on his style - pieces that he’d designed himself. Given the relative scarcity of menswear options in Warsaw, it definitely sounded like a niche in the market.

As for the location, Olly says that they intentionally chose a cooler, slightly out-of-the-way location: “We wanted to have a sort of hidden location, not in the high street. We found this place and it was perfect for that, particularly given the set-up.” Indeed, the space is ultra cool - it’s like a gallery filled with charming antique wardrobes, sewing machines and industrial details that provide the perfect setting to a truly well-made collection that hails back to the traditions of bespoke tailoring. The clothes are chic, cut well and there’s a bit of everything for everyone: tailored suits for the businessman dandy, and laid-back fashion t-shirts and jeans for the dotcom dude. With a fun, almost secret-like feel, it looks like an In The Know gem that’s ready to flourish. (AL) >>

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...TILL YOU DROP >>

­fashion

Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. .

The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Anna Walker (B6) tel. 22 825 0664, www.annawalker.eu. .

This new atelier comes from Canadian designer Anna Walker. A bright, welcoming showroom houses a collection of stylish gowns for special events and formal occasions.

Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). .

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00.

This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix.

Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, . www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands.

Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), .

CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, . www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Labels inc. Prada, Smith, McCartney and more.

Emporio Armani (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 22 626 0650. .

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

The name speaks for itself. If you’re craving . a bit of Milano style, make sure to stop into the Emporio Armani store, just off the Rondo De Gaulle’a in the center of town.

Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, . www.zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the welldressed man, from suits to belts, sportswear and cologne.

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Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, . tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00.

This concept store, now re-opened on ul.

Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on . ul. Mokotowska.

Green Store (D4) ul. Chmielna 30, tel. 606 147 336, . www.gestablishment.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. The breakthrough fashion stars from Praga have opened their first boutique in Centrum, featuring their signature funky styles and accessories from Prada, Miu Miu and Gucci in a very cool space.

Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, . www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one.

L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, . www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Lilla Moda (multiple locations)

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Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl. .

Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man.

Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, . ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. The Luxury bar on . ul. Nowy Świat went bankrupt in about a minute. But its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre.

While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, . www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

Max Mara ul. Nowy Świat 1. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Poland’s first Max Mara mega store, with interior designed by Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Find all the latest from Max Mara Runway and the Max Mara Atelier coat collection, as well as Sportmax Runway and a growing range of in-house accessories.

Mokobelle ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance from Mokotowska 54), tel. 508 010 204. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. An eclectic collection of Polish jewelry, along with piecesfrom worldclass names like Rodrigo Otazu and Phillipe Audibert. .

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, . tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, . www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, .

Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

FASHION/ACCESSORIES Muji (A1) Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. .

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-.

21:00. Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Odzieżowe Pole (E6) ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 622 4867.

This is the only place in Warsaw where you can find limited-edition pieces from some of Poland’s most talented young designers.

Beautifully feminine dresses, skirts, blouses and jackets. There’s also a fashionable cafe upstairs for a quick-pick-me-up.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@ plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo.

Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00.

This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it.

Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up.

Rudolf & Co. (by appointment only) tel. 790 604 634, . www.rudolfco.com. A team of six tailors, the selection of which took some four years to finalise, sews items in-house. A darling of local press, with bespoke suits a specialty.

Simple (Various Locations) Klif, Arkadia, Sadyba, Blue City and Galeria Mokotów (see site for more locations and opening hours), tel. 22 531 4500 (Klif), . www.simple-cp.com. This original Polish brand has risen up the ranks over the past 15 years to become one of the most stylish labels on the market. Just the place to find minimalist pieces for the office or more . daring dresses for the evening for a reasonable price-quality ratio.

accessories

400 Rabbits (E6) ul. Mokotowska 24, tel. 22 629 2636, . www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. This is more than just a sneaker shop. Art, sport and fashion unite in this funky space.

Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144. .

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Batycki (various locations) ul. Zgoda 9 & ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel), tel. 22 828 2167, . www.batycki.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00. Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favourite among expats in the know.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, . ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814. You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.

Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes.

Dada (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 602 173 717, . www.galeriadada.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00–19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. It’s a bit hard to define exactly what Dada sells – (from jewellery to lamps, tunics and kitchen appliances) – but one thing is for sure: you won’t find any of it anywhere else.

Elf Joy by Kasia Kucharska (by appt) tel. 792 793 729, www.elfjoy.com. Kasia Kucharska travels all over the world to find stones that she turns into brilliant hand-made pieces of semi-precious stones, including amethyst, tourmaline and garnett. Available by special order.

Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, . www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

Furla (E5) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, . tel. 22 541 3896, www.furla.com. .

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

The highly-coveted handbag label’s flagship store in Warsaw features all the latest styles from Milan.

Hermitage Boutique (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 1, . tel. 22 323 7676, www.hermitage.pl. .

Get set to indulge at Warsaw’s most . prestigious fine watch and jewelry boutique.

Offers a world-class selection of pieces from Girard Perregaux, Chopard, Bvlgari, Blancpain, Chaumet, de Grisogono, Omega, Breitling and Scatolo del Tempo, along with limited edition Vertu mobiles.

Hublot Boutique (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 821 0101. .

This luxury boutique features the most coveted timepieces in all the world.

Jaime Mascaro (E4) ul. Mysia 5 (Liberty Corner), tel. 22 596 5115.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00 The Mascaro family has been making shoes for three generations. Here, you can get the latest >>

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...TILL YOU DROP >> styles in quality materials for a fraction of what you’d pay at the P3K shops up the street.

J.M. Weston (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

This French luxury leather shoe and accessories brand has been known for its Parisian style and American-inspired technique since the late 19th century.

Kate & Kate (D5) ul. Wspólna 50A/20, tel. 501 021 841, . www.kateandkate.pl Open Mon-Fri 13:0019:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 This shop is so tucked away, you’d never find it without heads up from a friend or fellow Insider. But once you do, be prepared to enter a world of brilliant accessories.

home décor & interior design

3F Studio (B2) ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, www.3fstudio.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

Apteka Sztuki (E6) Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00.

Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland).

Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home.

www.egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Great for gifts.

Galeria 2 Deco (D6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 621 2420, . www.2deco.pl. A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices.

Special orders and consulting also available.

Glamstore (C9) ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), . tel. 22 403 2300, www.glamstore.com.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

Koło Antiques Market (Wola) between ul. Obozowa and ul. Newelska.

Open Sat-Sun 8:00-14:00. .

Perfect for the casual browser . or Eastern European history buff . searching for antiques with a historical . twist. A fun place to browse silver cutlery, . military paraphernalia, pre-war crockery, chunky furniture, vintage toys and just . about any bric-a-brac.

Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, . www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in English is available.

Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), tel. 22 651 6884, . www.coqlila.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; .

Sat 10:00-16:00.Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware.

MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, . www.moomo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.Fun furniture styles . and innovative products. There are . products from designers Joseph .

Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm.

ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. .

Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, .

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www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture . and fittings with brands including .

Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, .

EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche.

Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339; ul.

Szpitalna 8, tel. 22826 0008. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00.www.redonion.pl..

Red Onion sells furniture, lamps, ceramics and glassware, sourced from all over the world. Red Onion’s new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

shopping malls

Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Fashion House Outlet Centre (E8) ul. Puławska 42E, www.fashionhouse.pl Galeria KEN Center/ E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, www.eleclerc.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-21:30, Fri 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00

Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, . www.klif.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Panorama (G10) Al. Witosa 31, tel. 22 640 1400. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

LIFESTYLE Accommodation, Education and more...

INDEX Accommodation ��������������������������������������������������� p.66 Medical �����������������������������������������������������������������p.72 Community Contacts �������������������������������������������� p.68 Transportation �������������������������������������������������������p.72 Health and Beauty �������������������������������������������������p.71 Education ��������������������������������������������������������������p.73

Insider’s Pick

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF DENTAL EXCELLENCE

HOT FIND

Dental Excellence Al. Jerozolimskie 56C (enter from ul. Żelazna), tel. 22 242 84 86, www. dentalexcellence.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-20:30.

T

eeth are a sensitive issue. Plenty of us have phobias about the dentist’s office still leftover from childhood. I’m one of those people. I hate the dentist, but I still love my teeth. That dreaded feeling I get when one of my nearly-pearly whites starts to ache I try to avoid at all costs. But going to the dentist is a must, and people like me just have to grin and bear it.

I didn’t have a single cavity until I was thirteen. That’s when I started snacking on sugary drinks and candy. Soon enough, my teeth started to show the effects. Twenty years later, my teeth are in pretty good shape, but I make it a point to keep up with check-ups, no matter how cumbersome. I had a bad experience when I first moved to Poland, so there’s always a shudder that comes with finding the right dentist. It took me a few years, but I finally found a dentist I felt comfortable with. Although it’s definitely a bit pricier than the rest

“ I had a bad experience when I first moved here, so there’s always a shudder that comes with finding the right dentist”

of the bunch, you can’t really put a price on dental health. Especially when a woman’s in her childbearing years and any problems can really impact the life of a developing fetus. I don’t have any kids yet, but I know the importance of making sure I’m healthy before that stage of life begins.

Dental Excellence really impressed me with the professionalism of its staff, and a tasteful set-up that’s a bit glam, but still quite serious.

After a thorough examination and consultation Dr. Jan Dethloff filled all those tiny cavities that were getting ready to become biggies, cleaned my teeth and fit my mouth with a brace that I wear at nighttime to combat grinding and the pop-and-click my jaw tends to make when I chew. My overall bill came out to a few thousand złoty, but for ten fillings and all the additional services, it was money well spent.

Of course, the clinic specializes in whitening, implants and other treatments that not only maintain the overall health of patients’ mouths - but keep them sparkling white, too. It’s the closest to the Hollywood smile you can get in Warsaw - and with very friendly service that few other dental clinics in this city can match. (AL)

www.warsawinsider.pl

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LIFESTYLE >>

Accommodation

Some hotel prices might not include VAT

APARTMENTS, HOTELS

­top hotels in Warsaw 5-star hotels

tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com.

Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna.

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, Hilton Warsaw (B4) www.mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, prowl around old town, before spoiling www.hilton.com. Single and double room yourself inside the desginer confines of this €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excelboutique masterpiece. Prices start from lent services and amenities in a world-class approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities. married’ packages.

Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services.

InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor.

BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44,

With everything from economy to luxury vehicles auTOauTO.Pl will find the right car for you.

AUTOAUTO.PL The best-performing

Financing, insurance, registration, full car service plus short and long term rentals all undeR One ROOF

used car site in Poland, and the national leader in used car sales!

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public.

Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł. 528 (weekdays), zł. 376 (weekend). 4-star hotels Gym and swimming pool.

Jan III Sobieski (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) www.sobieski.com.pl Single & double rooms ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna. www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: Holiday Inn (C4) €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, 24-hour fitness centre for guests only. www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: Sheraton (E5) €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, jacuzzi, sauna.­ tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna.

Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4), ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl.

Single & double rooms: €78-112.

We buy, sell and exchange!

Over 1,000 used and new vehicles, all with warranty!

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

We buy FOR cash

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend).

Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com.

Single and double rooms: zł.265-480.

Wellness centre and sauna.

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60–235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only.

“We speak English, French, German and Vietnamese” - autoauto.pl Three locations: al. Krakowska 178, ul. Ostrobramska 73, al. Jana Pawła 69 tel. 22 487 5777 and 22 487 5779

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Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie

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ACCOMMODATION is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

3-star hotels Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included.

Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl.

Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł.

279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square.

Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł.

299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room.

Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests.

Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www. reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł. 250

(weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included.

Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 22, tel. 22 528 0300, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €90100. Swimming pool, fitness room, massages, Finnish sauna, gym, power plate.

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

top hotels around Poland

Kraków 5-star hotels

Hotel Stary ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 12 421 4865. Single & double rooms €245-275. Sauna, fitness centre, Spa & Wellness centre, indoor swimming pool, salt cave, roof top bar.

4-star hotels Hotel Pod Różą ul. Floriańska 14, tel. 12 424 3300. Single & double bedrooms €187-207. Sauna, fitness centre, hiking.

Kazimierz Dolny

Król Kazimierz ul. Puławska 86, tel. 81 880 9999, www.krolkazimierz.pl. Grand four star hotel. Available activities include bowling,

billiard, a full featured spa, a bar and a night club.

Northeast Poland

Hotel Zamek Ryn Plac Wolności 2, Ryn, tel 87 429 7000, www.zamekryn.pl. This impressive hotel, perched on a hill by an idyllic lake, is perfect for group flings like annual company gatherings, and other mass bonding celebrations such as weddings and anniversaries.

Gościniec Jaczno (Jaczno Lodge) (Suwałki Lakes district) Jaczno 3, Jeleniewo, tel. 87 568 3590, www.jaczno.pl, jaczno@jaczno.pl.

Single & double rooms zł. 210-330. Apartments zł. 350-490. Luxurious chalet-style lodge offering biking, fishing, hiking, steam & Finnish sauna, fitness club.

apartments & real estate E-Expert

WARSAW REAL ESTATE & MORTAGE ADVISE

E-Expert Nieruchomości Kredyty Inwestycje ul. Kopernika 28/1, tel. 606 630 300, www.e-expert.org. Real-estate advisory services for rent and purchase of premium properties across Warsaw, as well as investment advisory for developments across Poland and mortgage servicing for locals and expats.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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LIFESTYLE >>

Community Contacts GET CONNECTED

Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Based on the traditional AA format, in Warsaw meetings take place on ul. Radna, buzzer #3.

Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat 11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month).

American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs supporting vital needs in our host country.

For more information: info@afw.waw.pl.

Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, 1st floor; tel/fax: 22 827 6000; e-mail: amnesty@ amnesty.org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 0000 0000 0959 0181.

Art Friends’ Society For info, contact Justyna Napiórkowska: e-mail: justyna@napiorkowska.pl, mob.

0603-378-567.

Blanc Lys (Wola) ul. Księcia Janusza 23, tel. 508 162 810, www.blanc-lys.com. The first self-service laundromat in Warsaw, open daily 08:0020:00. Free wi-fi.

Bread of Life (Chleb Życia) ul. Nowogrodzka 6, www.chlebzycia.org.pl.

Sells items made by both the homeless and

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women fleeing domestic violence. If you’re interested in the work of the Bread of Life, or would simply like to sponsor a student, email Elizabeth via iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com.

Cumann Warszawa Gaelic Football Team Poland’s first Gaelic football team is up and running. The club offers weekly training, competitive games against other European GAA opposition and regular social events and is open to players and members from all nationalities. For more information contact Eoin 518 425 587 or cumannwarszawa@gmail. com.

Dharma Yoga in English. It’s well worth visiting the English/ Polish website for more information on the specific practices of this type of yoga, the offers at hand for first-time students as well as sneaking a peak at the photo journalism of key practitioner, Sabina Steckiewicz’s travels around India. Find out more at: www.dharmayoga.pl.

(ul. Francuska 12). The meetings provide a good opportunity for stimulating discussions and for those new to Warsaw - a chance of meeting people in a very relaxed setting.

There are no membership fees. For more info, contact: marzena.reich@gmail.com.

The English-Speaking Expatriate Business Owners in Poland Association This non-profit association serves a niche group of expatriates within the framework of “expat CEOs helping expat CEOs without business competition getting in-between.”

For further information, please contact Richard Whipple (Founder), tel. 504 346 406.

European Social Democrats in Poland Contact Tim Clapham at tel. 22 624 0470, timclapham@poczta.onet.pl or Jean-Yves Leconte at mob. 0604 960 555, jy.leconte@ assemblee-afe.fr.

The Ex-Animo Foundation An organization that helps care for young cancer patients at the Children’s Memorial Health Institute - the largest children’s oncology center in Poland. www.exanimo.pl.

Dr Clown Foundation ul. Goszczyńskiego 9, www.drclown.pl.

Provide Patch Adams-style entertainment to kids in 68 hospitals and clinics across Poland. Expats-in-Poland.com Further info: tel. 22 854 0501, 02 or 03.

Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive information and services for foreigners English Speaking Book Club including immigration, work permits, driving We meet once a month in Ganders Teahouse licences, renting and buying properties,

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COMMUNITY

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updates

healthcare, education and more. For more information: www.expats-in-poland.com.

Expatriates Services PFF ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. Offers services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence & work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information: tel. 22 828 1501, www. pff-warsaw.com.

Food Banks All thirty food banks operating in Poland deliver food aid to those in need – as many as 5 million people. To donate food or get involved go to www.bankizywnosci.pl.

Foundation for Poland This is a charity organization that reaches out to street children and other youths. They also manage a number of other projects. For more information: www.fdp.org.pl.

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Friends Creative Activities ul. 334 Przyczółkowa, tel. 22 642 0843, www.friends-ca.pl.Handicraft workshops for both kids and adults alike. Come and visit our world of creative activities and share your passion with us...

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium, ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, mob. 0502 198 782.

Fundacja Dziecięca Fantazja Poland’s own “Make-A-Wish Foundation” focus to “light up the lives” of terminally-ill children in Poland by making their fondest wishes and dreams come true. More info at: email: info@f-df.pl, www.f-df.pl.

Italiani in Polonia ul. Dąbrowskiego 82C, tel. 22 845 0652, www.italianiinpolonia.org. The biggest Italian community group in Warsaw. Hosts regular social gatherings, lectures and special events for members.

Fundacja Świętego Mikołaja ul. Przesmyckiego 40, Piaseczno, tel. 22 825 0390. The St. Nicholas Foundation has been contributing funds to needy children and families for over ten years. To support the foundation, wire funds to Volkswagen Bank Polska S.A. 64 2130 0004 2001 0299 9993 0001 (KRS 0000126602). www.mikolaj. org.pl.

The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) Offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl.

Habitat for Humanity International (F11) This is a non-profit organization that helps the working poor build and afford their own houses. For more information: ul. Idzikowskiego 2/16, tel. 22 642 9520, poland@habitat.pl, www.habitat.pl.

Mabor Acculturation Services Expatriates feeling a bit of “culture shock” in Poland can find refuge at Mabor. The organization hosts 2-hour meetings led by a trained cultural psychologist that help members with the adaptive acculturation process, providing tools for understanding and accepting a new social environment.

Meetings take place at the end of every month at Mabor headquarters. Cost per session zł.100. For info, contact Anna Osinski at a.osinska@mabor.com.pl.

International Rotary Club The only English speaking Rotary Club in Warsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join the weekly meetings held at the Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45.

For info: tel. 601 897 731.

New Europe Writers Ink (D5) A fellowship of writers creating poetry and prose fiction in English. For more information: ul. Marszałkowska 80, mailbox 151, editor@ new-ink.org, www.new-europe-writers-ink.com.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are generally held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

For more info email iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com.

Pol-in.pl – Professional Expat Assistance Information and services for foreigners such as: residence permit, visas, work permit, real estate, money transfer (Western Union), car rental and more. Info: www. pol-in.pl. >>

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LIFESTYLE >> Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook.

and intermediate, theory, practice and field trips. For more information: www.wsfoto.art. pl/english.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl. The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-and-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

Beit Warszawa: The Progressive Jewish Congregation Friday Shabbat services at 19:00, weekly lectures, activities and holiday events.

For more information: 22 885 2638; fax 22 885 8982, e-mail: office@beit.org.pl, www.beit-warszawa.org.pl.

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym. pl. Over 300 locations worldwide, with the Warsaw one set to open this November.

Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio and a ‘weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun.’

Chabad-Lubavitch ul.Słomińskiego 19, tel. 22 637 5352, www.chabad.org.pl. The Outreach Activities of the Chabad-Lubavitch center include adult education classes, Jewish youth programs and a Talmud Torah. The center’s Glatt Kosher Restaurant offers daily Glatt Kosher meals.

Talizman The Talizman Foundation is a non-profit registered charity. More info: www.talizman.org.

Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

To request an invitation or for further information please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353.

Toastmasters International (E5) Toastmasters Polska club invites all to the weekly meetings, to master the art of Public Speaking and presentation skills. Meetings every Wednesday at 19.00 in the Warsaw Stock Exchange, Catalyst room 1st floor, ul.

Książęca 4. Guests are most welcome with no commitment other than a short introduction. More info at toastmasters.org.pl or ring Etan at tel. 696 292 451.

TravelFriends.pl TravelFriends.pl is a community travel portal designed for anyone who’s up for meeting new people, whether it’s searching for travel companions or roommates, finding a partner, spicing up your free time, or just widening your circle of friends. For further information, contact Beata Sieradzka at info@travelfriends.pl. www.travelfriends.pl.

Warsaw Beavers Warsaw’s first expatriate ice hockey team trains Thursday and Sunday nights. For more information, contact Randy Gabrielson 606 247 347 or e-mail to: warsawbeavers@ gmail.com.

The Warsaw School of Photography A leading private institution in Poland offering photography courses in English for beginners

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children

Mums & Tots Brings together expat mothers, toddlers and babies for various activities. For more information: postmaster@mumsandtots.com, www.mumsandtots.com.

houses of worship

Masses held in different languages in Warsaw: English ul. Radna 14, every Sunday, 11:30 (CCD, every Sunday, 10:30) Italian ul. Smoluchowskiego 1, every Sunday, 12:00.

Spanish (D8) ul. Melsztyńska 12, every Sunday, 10:40.

The Bahá’i Community of Warsaw (D5) Centrum Narodowe/National Centre, ul. Lanciego 13, tel. 22 353 3717. For more information: www.bahai.org.pl or bahai@ bahai.org.pl.

Gospel Baptist Church ul. Grochowska 324/8 (Praga), tel. 500 270 990. Services are held in Polish and English. Sun 11:00 (Sunday School and Evangelistic service) and Thurs 19:00. For more information contact: Pastor Paul Sock, mob. 500 270 990, e-mail: paulesock@ yahoo.com. www.gbc-ekb.com.

International Christian Fellowship (E10) Interdenominational services Sunday 17:00 at ul. Puławska 114. For more information: Pastor Roy Taylor at mob. 607 309 490, pastorroy.icf@gmail.com, www.icf-pl.org.

Nożyk Synagogue (C4) ul. Twarda 6, tel. 22 620 0676, 22 620 4324, www.jewish.org.pl. Services Mon-Fri 8:00 and at sunset, Sat and Sun 9:30 and at sunset.

Shabbat dinners Friday at the Youth Centre.

German (E5) ul. Żytna 11, every Sunday,10.30.

Polish Christian Church: Christian Fellowship “North” (F1) Provides services translated into English and German. Sunday school for children aged 3-13, baby and toddler care, youth meetings.

For more information contact Monika Sacewicz at 501 516 589 or www.schpolnoc.pl.

Anglican and Episcopal Church Meets every Sun. at 10:00 in Res Sacra Miser Church (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 62).

Sunday school during service, refreshments after service. For more information: Rev. Robert Campbell, mob. 602 782 497 assistant.chaplain@anglicanchurch.pl, or visit www.anglicanchurch.pl.

St. Paul, the Apostle of the Nations, English Speaking Roman Catholic Parish ul. Radna 14 at the Church of St. Vincent de Paul Charitable Society, Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Miraculous Medal. No services Monday. Contact Father Wiesław Dawidowski, mob. 600 384 916, chaplain@catholic.li.pl.

French (D8) ul. Rakowiecka 61, every Sunday, 10:45.

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HEALTH & BEAUTY Warsaw Diamond Way Buddhist Center “The Stupa House”, ul. Ożarowska 65/67. Open meditations are held on Tuesdays and Wednesdays at 20:00, Fridays and Sundays at 19:00. Every Friday at 18:00 meetings are held for anyone interested in

Diamond Way Buddhism. For more information: tel. 22 877 3408, www.stupahouse.pl.

for Today.” English-speaking worship and Sunday School for children.

Warsaw International Church (C2) ul. Miodowa 21, tel. 22 842 2351, pastor@wic. org.pl, www.wic.org.pl. “A Mainline Church

To be listed in this section, please fax your info to 22 639 8569 or e-mail: insider@ warsawinsider.pl.

Health & Beauty BODY AND MIND

spas & salons

AcuMed Asian Therapies ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100, www.tuina.pl. Qigong – Daoyin – Meditation in small groups. Also offers special exercises for improving physical & mental health and increasing energy.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160, www.bodyclinic.pl. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-of-the-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed.

Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331 0808, www.diorinstitut.com.

This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs.

Fabryka Próżnosci ul.Cecylii Śniegockiej 8 lok.101, tel. 22 312 1909, www.fabrykaproznosci.pl.

Has a full suit of facials, massages (all the main schools are represented); competitive prices, and plenty of English-speaking therapists.

BEST WAWA 2010“Best Spa” Winner Hair-a-Porter (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -1, tel. 22 558 1555. The friendly staff provides full-service hair and nail treatments for men and women.

Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288, www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense

with the farce and make your hair look great.

They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee.

Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

You can be assured to spend a few blissful hours here and then walk out looking incredible.

Multico Wellness & Spa ul. Bitwy pod Rokitną 1 (in Old Żoliborz), tel. 22 869 9631, www.multico.pl. A modern fitness center and gorgeous pool make this a chic place to work out and relax. Now offers spa services and great massages.

Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” – which essentially incorporate Eastern philosophies into their services – such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages. >>

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LIFESTYLE Medical

>>

EMERGENCIES, CLINICS

private clinics

ARUMED Arumed Oriental Medical Center, ul.Noakowskiego 8, tel. 22 825 93 96.

The OMC doctors offer acupuncture, acupressure, herbal medicines, and medical massage for completh health.

Aster Med ul. Sw. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl. Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian.com.pl.

Citident ul. Młynarska 26/28, tel. 22 862 4770, www.citident.pl.

Enel-Med Medical Centre Atrium Plaza, Al. Jana Pawła II 29; Arkadia (A1), Al. Jana Pawła II 82; Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179; www.enel.pl General number for information and to schedule an appointment: tel. 022 311 7777.

Eurodental ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 22 857 0088, www.eurodental.pl.

Lim Medical Center Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5), ul. Domaniewska 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78, tel. 22 458 7000, www.cmlim.pl.

Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900, www.medicover.com.

Vertebralia ul. Postępu 6, tel. 22 449 2828, www. vertebralia.pl. A clinic specializing in the integrated treatment of all kinds of spinal illness. With 20 years of experience, they perform innovative treatments with state-ofthe-art equipment.

24-hour pharmacies Al. Solidarności 149, tel. 22 620 0818. ul. Wilcza 31, tel. 22 834 5804. ul. Grójecka 76, tel. 22 822 2891.

Transportation GETTING AROUND

car rental

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3.

Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl.

Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients.

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. Some 47 offices in 35 countries which facilitate easing the transition across borders.

Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789.

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com.

Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com.

Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com.

travel agency

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl.

Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

relocation companies AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077, www.ags-worldwide-movers.com.

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DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl.

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com.

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl.

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FCm Travel Express al. Jana Pawła II 19, tel. 22 453 5353, travelexpress.pl.

taxis

Ele Taxi tel. 22 811 11 11 Grosik Taxi tel. 22 6464646 Merc tel. 22 677 7777 MPT tel. 22 1919 Sawa tel. 22 644 4444 Super Taxi tel. 22 19622 Volfra tel. 22 19625 Wawa tel. 22 19644

MEDICAL/TRANSPORTATION/EDUCATION Education

PRESCHOOLS AND SCHOOLS

polish for foreigners

Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629 9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offers a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals.

Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 501 299 338, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: info@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company or other convenient locations. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles.

Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time courses get online course for free.

Lingua Polonica Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients.

Private and small-group classes available on

a variety of levels for competitive prices.

Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson.

Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl.

preschools

ABC Play & Learn (H5) ul. Genewska 27, Saska Kępa, tel. 22 616 2066, www.abc.org.pl. Located in the leafy residential district of Saska Kępa, ABC Play & Learn provides a creative and educational space for small children, with capacious play rooms filled with toys and hands-on materials.

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob.

0502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl.

This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English.

They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777; ul.

Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281; www. thebritishschool.pl. The British School

provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. In addition to a rich, international curriculum, the pre-school offers a wide range of extra-curricular activities such as dance, swimming, capoeira, karate and pottery. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, Saska Kępa, tel 22 616 1499, www.saint-exupery.pl. Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children 2 to 7 years old. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. Welcoming family atmosphere.

The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse. >>

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LIFESTYLE >> com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com.

The European Bilingual Preschool ul. Chłapowskiego 1, tel. 22 644 1514, mob.

0605 561 514, info@preschool.waw.pl, www.preschool.waw.pl.

HAPPY HOME Childcare ul. Okrężna 23, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 717 5513, fax 22 717 5145, mob. 608 369 269, 501 495 543, preschool@happy-home.pl, www.happyhomechildcare.eu. An international preschool located in Konstancin, close to the American School of Warsaw. Ideal childcare facility for children aged 16 months to 5 years. “Happy Home is Your Home” is their motto, aiming to combine a family atmosphere with education, promote the harmonious development of children through play and getting to know themselves and the world.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places

for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. Children are given ample time and opportunity to explore and work at their own pace and in their own learning style, with a focus on global education according to the world-famous Montessori philosophy.

International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440 or 603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization. 5:1 student/faculty ratio and extensive extracurricular activities.

International Preschool (E11) ul. Zawrat 14, tel. 22 843 0964, preschool@ preschool.pl, www.preschool.pl. Serving the children of American Embassy and non-embassy families for over 50 years, the International Preschool of Warsaw is located in the heart of Mokotów district.

La Fontaine Polish-French Pre-School ul. Rolna 177, Mokotów, tel.22 843 4241 & ul. Pogonowskiego 19, Żoliborz, tel. 0 502 051 360, www.lafontaineprzedszkole.pl.

This preschool has a Polish-French profile

and offers bilingual teaching.

Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre is an English-speaking play and learn group in Old Mokotów, dedicated to infants 16 months to 3 years of age. It offers a gentle introduction to nursery education. Contact: marta. cross@neostrada.pl, mob. 607 704 396.

Maple Leaf Preschool ul. Żołny 16, tel. 22 644 2326, office@canadianschool.edu.pl, www.canadianschool.edu.pl. Polish-Canadian Preschool with two locations on the outskirts of Warsaw, ul. Czereśniowa 31a, WarszawaWłochy, tel. 22 863 7756 and ul. Żołny 16, tel. 644 23 26, mob. 501 251 414.

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, www.argonaut.edu.pl. This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy. eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations.

NOW OPEN

www.thelittlegym.pl

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EDUCATION The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. Offers extracurricular activities, such as: art, dance, yoga, football and summer art & sport camps.

schools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw.org, www.aswarsaw.org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244.

The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10

year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@ canadian-school.pl.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300. The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@canadian-school.pl.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16. Saska Kępa tel 22 616-14-99 www.saint-exupery.pl First Montessori curriculum in French in Warsaw. The Antoine de Saint-Exupéry preschool is opening in

September 2011 a Montessori classroom for children from 2 years old.

International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442 or 0603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization.

International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75, tel. 22 842 4448, ies@ ies-warsaw.pl. In operation since 2002 the International European School teaches the Polish National Curriculum in English language to both primary and mid-school level.

La Fontaine Polish-French Primary Schoolul. Okrężna 95, Mokotów, tel. 22 885 0020, www.lafontaine. edu.pl. The school has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching for children aged from 6 to 12 years old.

Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

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Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

Wa r s a wInsider: I n s i d e01-31 r : 0 1 December – 3 1 M a r ch 2011 Warsaw 2011

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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Over 750 students enrolled Over 50 different nationalities Outstanding IB and I/GCSE results Superb facilities in the heart of Warsaw High quality teaching provided by committed British, International and local staff A complete education from 2,5-18 years Following the English National Curriculum Wide range of extracurricular activities

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l. Limanowskiego 15 u 02-943 Warszawa T: +48 22 843 81 31 F: +48 22 842 81 65 E: admissions@thebritishschool.pl W: www.thebritishschool.pl 11-08-24 08:35

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

BOOK EXCERPT

SHORTCUTS TO POLAND

“Christmas Spirit, Slavic Soul,” another chapter in our monthly series from the 3rd edition. Available at the American Bookstore. BY LAURA KLOS SOKOL

T

he part of the Polish Christmas Eve dinner, Wigilia, that I like best is the breaking and sharing of the opłatek, the thin wafers that are on every table at Christmas eve. But this moment also reminds me how I lack Slavic Soul.

The chaos of getting a lot of people and heaps of food into the same room suddenly subsides at the opłatek moment. First, pieces of opłatek are distributed to each guest. Then, maneuvering around the long crowded table, you meet privately with every guest one by one: Huddled together and speaking in hushed voices, you exchange wishes for the next year. At the same time, you break off and eat a piece of each other’s opłatek.

I like this tradition since you share a moment of intimacy with each person. The Christmas spirit pours into the room and billows at this very minute.

But here’s the tricky part: If there are a lot of people at Wigilia, you have to be quick on your feet to think up various personal wishes. It’s like having to come up with a series of Hallmark greeting card wishes in a row—except that they have to sound like something people really say.

The Top Ten Hit List of Wigilia Wishes are: health, wealth, peace, love, success, happiness, longevity, fewer prob-

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Warsaw Insider: 01-31 December 2011

lems, pride in the children and simply, all the best. Poles have a knack for looking deep into your soul and putting into words what you really want. “I wish you success and satisfaction with your work, good colleagues and dear friends,” I was told last year. “I wish you happiness in Poland even though you’re far away from friends and family,” said another.

Poles express their wishes so eloquently and sincerely that I get all choked up. By contrast, I feel cheap with my klutzy Polish, repeating stock wishes to different people.

Determined to be as personal and heartfelt as I can, I look deeply in the person’s eyes and say, “Uh, well… I wish you…um…ahem…” The person waits, blinks patiently, and then finally says, “Health and happiness?” I say, “Yes! Of course! Hah! That’s it! I wish you health and happiness!” and move on to the next person: “Uh, well…I wish you… um…”

And then the kiddies. What should I say to them: “I wish you chocolate on a weekly basis,” “I hope you don’t get beat up at school anymore,” or “I wish you fewer skinned knees for the next year”?

Perhaps the best wish someone could offer me for the coming year is that more of the Slavic Soul rubs off on me.