Warsaw Insider # 189 May 2012

Trends: Champagne page 18

Travel: Płock

Jewish Museum page 30

page 20

City Walk: South Central Warsaw

page 24

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

price zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM’S 150th ANNIVERSARY page 22

to our readers

MAY 2012

May Days

PHOTOGRAPH TOP BARTOSZ STAWIARSKI. BOTTOM FROM LEFT, COURTESY OF ZAKĄSKI PRZEKĄSKI, , COURTESY OF ZACHĘTA. WIKICOMMONS

arsaw is not a city one can accuse of standing still. Since the Iron Curtain was swiped to the side, few other cities have embraced change and blossomed in the same manner. However, it’s not just the skyline that has been transformed in recent years. Culturally speaking, Warsaw is unrecognizable from the not so distant past – the last eight years have brought with them the opening of the Uprising, Chopin and Copernicus museums, three places that could easily stand alongside any museum in Europe – the world, even. They’ll soon be joined by long overdue (in more MoMA Warsaw, Night ways than one) Museum of the History of Polish Jews. of the Museums 2011 Sooner still, both the National Museum and Historical Museum plan to reopen in May, while the cult sounding Neon Museum will also debut its displays. It’s all a far cry from yesteryear – times when lingering around a display would incur the terrifying wrath of gnarled, old curators armed with torches and body odor. So it’s in celebration of this – and the forthcoming Night of the Museums – we’ve chosen the moment for our museum special. And yes, do make the most of it – this time next month culture goes into the trash, temporarily at least, as the city assumes its position as one of the host cities of Euro 2012. The museums aren’t the only thing changing round these parts, either. The humble Insider is the process of gradual reinvention, and among the changes we’ve introduced is a dedicated section devoted to children; expect that to expand in the following months. Also this issue, we’ve resumed our series of city prowls, and traveled to Płock for a memorable weekend – were we expecting to find Poland’s rudest restaurant? Certainly not. There is, of course so much more inside, and we look forward to hearing your comments and feedback. Enjoy May, and don’t forget to keep abreast of the hottest restaurant openings and bar launches in our weekly e-letter – subscribe for free at: newsletter@warsawinsider.pl. Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

on the cover Stealing cover space this issue is the Warsaw’s National Museum - reopening this month to coincide with the fabulous Night of the Museums. For more on Warsaw’s museums, see page 20. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Insider’s TOP 3 New Insider Iza Depczyk was born and lived in Warsaw until the age of seven, whereupon a move to Kraków beckoned… then Switzerland, UK, US, Scotland, Ecuador and finally Costa Rica. Seventeen years on, Iza is back in this city of contrast: ‘where people who fought in ’44 Uprising live under the same roof as people now fighting for same sex marriages.’

Przekąski Zakąski There is nothing more Polish than a shot of vodka and a tatar or śledź on the side. Przekąski Zakąski, which literally means snacks and appetizers, is the perfect pre-party spot; halfway between the city center and the Old Town, it’s great for a quick taste of Poland, with all drinks and snacks priced at zł. 4 and zł. 8.

Zachęta Sometimes filled with beautiful art, and sometimes… well, with artistic chairs, tables, wires or other similar (artsy-fartsy) installations/hipsterisms. Zachęta is comparatively small, and time spent walking around it is just enough to take a closer look and contemplate over every exhibit without feeling exhausted by the end of the tour.

Kabaty Forest If you are looking for an escape from the city, then Kabaty Forest is the place. With several bike and hike routes, as well as a ‘wellness’ path, it’s a 10-minute walk away from the Kabaty metro. The paths all lead to the Powsin Park, where in the summer you can enjoy a barbeque or go hang out by the outdoor pool.

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what’s inside

MAY 2012

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

Nightlife

05 Insider’s Pick Sonisphere Festival 05 Calendar Music, art and happenings around town 07 Films Movie openings 08 Museums Top cultural institutes 33 I nsider’s Pick Pasja Smaku 40 The Luncheonettes Concept 13 54 Food Shop British Shop

55 Insider’s Pick Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska

59 Insider’s Pick Spiskowcy Rozkoszy 64 On the Prowl... with The Mayor

INfront

FEATURES

Shopping

11 News in Brief Happenings around town and beyond. Plus, communism meets capitalism in Starbucks, Cats make the headlines and McDonald’s irks the public.

20 Museums An inside look at the Museum of the History of Polish

Children

Lifestyle

18 Trends Champagne bars Editor-in-chief Art Director Editor Editorial Intern Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

75 Insider’s Pick Bone “Pet Club”

30 Travel Płock 88 Why Warsaw? Actress Martina Rampulla

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Iza Depczyk idepczyk@valkea.com Karolina Kalinowska Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Maria Pięta mpieta@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

71 Insider’s Pick Mums & Tots

Contributors: Brian Banks Bartosz Bajerski Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung David Ingham Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Agnieszka Le Nart

85 Classifieds 86 Warsaw Map and Street Index Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2012 Warsaw Insider.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

16 Relics of the PRL Music, food and gifts

24 City Walk Strolling South Central Warsaw

67 Insider’s Pick Chiara

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Reviews: Sonisphere Festival 5 / Night of the Museums 9

CULTURE EVENTS 5 / MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 8 / FILM 7

EVENT CALENDAR

Insider’s Pick

1-3

WORKSHOP Dance Mania 15 Egurrola Dance Studio (ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A), tel. 22 824 02 01, www.dancemania.pl Whether you are a ‘dancing queen’ or a dancing disaster, Dance Mania 15 offers a series of workshops and classes for all dance enthusiasts. Afro, Hip Hop and Ragga Jam are just some of the styles you can master. Tickets from zł. 240, available at www.dancemania.pl

Till the 3rd

REENACTMENT

FESTIVAL

Metallica to headline at Sonisphere Festival

Sonisphere Festival 15:00, Lotnisko Bemowo, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 125

International Knights Championship - Battle of the Nations Fort Bema, ul. Jerzego Waldorffa A four day show involving knights in shining armor, on horses and fighting each other (for real!). Over 850 people from 15 countries will be turning up to reenact the good old days. Aside from fully armed combat, there’ll be food, craft stands etc. Tickets from zł. 20, available at www.eventim.pl and www.ticketpro.pl

ALL PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

reated by John Jackson and Kilimanjaro Live in 2009, the so-called “travelling” music festival has assumed status as the annual highlight of every heavy-metal fan. This year, the Sonisphere Festival will be hosted in five different European countries. After Poland, which will kick off the tour, Spain, Switzerland, Finland and France will all be graced by a stack of near legendary heavy-metal bands. Between May and July bands like Metallica, Machine Head, Motorhead, Soundgarden, Black Label Society, Acid Drinkers and Evanescence (the list continues), will appear on some of the international festival stages. And the lineup is pretty hot in Warsaw as well, featuring Machine Head, Black Label Society, Gojira, Acid Drinkers, Hunter and Luxtorpeda. Grabbing the title of headline act are Metallica – their international breakthrough arrived in December 1991 along with the release of their fifth disc: The Black Album. Touting hits like “Enter Sandman”, “The Unforgiven”, “Nothing Else Matters”, “Wherever I May Roam” and “Sad But True”, the album launched them as a bona fide global act. Expect these tracks and more from the LA based rockers. (ID) Tickets from zł.209, available at www.livenation.pl. For more information about the festival or the other bands performing at the Polish Sonisphere, check pl.sonisphere.eu

May 7, 14, 28 MUSIC

Jazz Jam Sessions Dobranocka, ul. Smolna 40,

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CULTURE

7, 14, 21, 28 MIXER

Tindersticks Palladium, Złota 9 The Nottingham indie rock legends are in Poland for the second time, this outing ostensibly to promote their ninth album The Something Rain. Tickets available from zł. 125, at www.ticketpro.pl

The Rasmus Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Their last album, Black Roses, was deemed by critics worldwide as the best thing to come out of Finland. Judge for yourself at Stodoła. Tickets from zł.79, available at www.eventim.pl

CONCERT

Tandem Evenings Herba Thea, ul. Pokorna 2, www.herbathea.pl Hosted at an all-natural tea bar, Tandem Evenings take place every Monday. The goal of the meetings is to bring together people from all over the world, and to practice foreign languages. Free admission.

CONCERT

CONCERT Foster the People Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Deemed one of the most important bands of the new generation, Foster the People will be performing in Poland for the first time, no doubt airing their chart topping single Pumped up Kicks. Tickets available from zł.110, available from www.eventim.pl

The Lemonheads Hydrozagadka, ul. 11 Listopada 22 Founded in 1986 by Evan Dando, the band has slipped its punk rock roots adopting more of a pop beat in recent years. Expect plenty of hits from their seminal album, It’s a Shame about Ray. Tickets zł. 49, available from www.eventim.pl

CONCERT Manzarek Rogers Band Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Ray Manzarek, co-founder of The Doors, has pulled together some of his old band mates as well as his the singer of The Cult, to form this band. Look forward to a modern, innovative sound celebrating the golden epoch of rock. Tickets zł.110, available from www.eventim.pl.

Charlie Winston Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 This British indie folk artist, recognized for his hit single Like a Hobo, will be making his Polish debut in Stodoła. Tickets available from zł.90, book through www.stodola.pl

Jazz Nights 20:30 Hemipshere (Hotel InterContinental), ul. Emilii Plater 49 Jazz Nights is a project organized by the Jazz branch of the State Chopin Music Schools. The point of the project is to promote young, talented musicians, by pairing them up with experienced, professional jazz players. Tickets from zł. 15, to book call 22 328 87 72.

11-12

FESTIVAL jUWenalia (Warsaw University) Courtyard of the University of Warsaw, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28 Organized by Warsaw University students, jUWenalia is a two-day music extravaganza. On Friday the university stage will be graced by Łona, Kamp!, Łąki Łan and Myslovitz. Entrance is free. On Saturday performances come from Farben Lehre, Chemia, Lao Che and Kult. Tickets for Sat are zł. 25 and available at www. enentim.pl

11-20

FESTIVAL

CONCERT

pulled 31,000 people, making it Europe’s third most popular documentary festival.

11 & 25

CONCERT

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Planete+ Doc Film Festival Kinoteka (pl. Defilad 1), Luna (ul. Marszałkowska 28), CSW (ul. Jazdów 2) Over 40 documentaries will be screened in Kinoteka, Luna and the Center for Contemporary Art (CSW), with discussions following on after. Last year it

18-19

FESTIVAL Juwenalia (Warsaw Polytechnic) www.facebook.com/ JuwenaliaPW Organized by the students of Warsaw Polytechnic, this festival involves concerts, beer and barbeque stands. This year performances come from Kazik Na Żywo, COMA and Power of Trinity. Admission: free.

18-27

MUSIC WEEK Warsaw Music Week Various locations, www.warsawmusicweek.pl Celebrating their third year, this annual project comes to you courtesy of the Good Music Agency, the British Council, Liverpool Music Week and the Warsaw City Hall. Details remained vague at press time, though acts already confirmed include Hercules and Love Affair, Pan Pot & Sebastian, Planningtorock and Out of Tune. The concerts are set to take place in different venues around the city, with some events touting free admission – check their web closer to party time.

CONCERT Pink Martini Sala Kongresowa, Plac Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 72 99 Known for their single Symphatique (Je ne veux pas travailler), this 14 member orchestra band is

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS OR ORGIANIZERS

tel. 510 090 484, www.dobranocka.waw.pl Jazz Jam Sessions are a chance for musicians, singers and jazz enthusiasts to, erm, jam together. Entrance costs zł.5, though is free if you turn up with an instrument.

led by singer China Forbes and offers a unique combination of classical music, jazz, and Latin sounds, together with native French music-hall type melodies. Tickets from zł.110, available at www.ticketpro.pl, www.eventim.pl

CONCERT Parov Stelar Band Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 The Parov Stelar Band gained world attention with their debut album Rough Cuts – a perfect example of the trip hop genre. They’ve since evolved further, developing a lounge, down-tempo style full of warm electronic sounds. Tickets zł. 89, available from www.koncert.pl

CONCERT Marcus Miller Palladium, ul. Złota 9 One of the biggest attractions in modern jazz. Known as one of the top bass guitarists in the world, his Warsaw concert is part of a wider spring tour to promote his latest album. Tickets from zł.140, available at www.ticketpro.pl

CONCERT Broadway Street The Show Teatr Rampa, ul. Kołowa 20, tel. 22 679 89 76 An evening of Broadway’s greatest hits. Four singers will perform songs from the Phantom of the Opera, Love Never Dies, Chicago, Wicked, Little Mermaid, and many more besides. Ticket prices undecided at press time. Available at www.teatr-rampa.pl, www.e-bilet.pl, www.eventim.pl

CONCERT Macy Gray Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A. One of very few contemporary singers who has managed to combine commercial success with constant development as an artist. This R’n’B / jazz great will be performing in Warsaw as part of the Deutsche Bank Invites series of concerts. Tickets from zł. 125, available at www.ticketpro.pl

MOVIES OPENING THIS MONTH 4th The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (Hotel Marigold) Drama. UK. Dir. John Madden, with Maggie Smith, Judi Dench, Dave Patel The InBetweeners Movie (Seksualni, niebezpieczni) Comedy. UK. Dir. Ben Palmer, with Simon Bird, James Buckley, Blake Harrison, Joe Thomas

11th

The Avengers 3D Sci-Fi. USA. Dir. Joss Whedon, with Robert Downey Jr., Scarlet Johansson, Samuel L. Jackson, Gwyneth Paltrow Bait 3D Thriller. Australia. Dir. Kimble Rendall, with Xavier Samuel, Julian McMahon Surviving Progress (Pułapki Rozwoju) Documentary. Canada. Dir. Mathieu Roy, Harold Crooks, with Stephen Hawking, Jane Goodall The Look (Spojrzenie)

Documentary. Germany/France. Dir. Angelina Maccarone, with Charlotte Rampling 18th The Big Year (Wielki rok) Comedy. USA. Dir. David Frankel, with Owen Wilson, Jack Black, Rosamund Pike, Steve Martin Dark Shadows (Mroczne cienie) Horror/Comedy. USA. Dir. Tim Burton, with Johnny Depp, Michelle Pfeiffer, Helena Bonham Carter

25th

Men in Black III in 3D (Faceci w czerni 3 w 3D) Sci-Fi/Comedy. USA. Dir. Barry Sonnenfeld, with Will Smith, Tommy Lee Jones, Josh Brolin Two Days in New York (2 dni w Nowym Jorku) Drama. France/Belgium/ Germany. Dir. Julie Delpy, with Chris Rock, Julie Delpy The Loneliest Planet (Najsamotnieszja Planeta) Thriller. Germany/USA. Dir. Julia Loktev, with Gael Garcia Bernal, Hani Furstenberg

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CULTURE MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place. Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Flor Garduno, for instance). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. May 8-May 15: Theatre & Dance. The fourth annual edition features dancetheatre performances, video installations and much more.

architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion – not least for the fab bookshop. Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is set to reopen in May, so watch this space. If past trips are anything to go by, expect a comprehensive and often fascinating display telling the no-holds barred story of Warsaw. In the meantime, the ground floor cinema is already open – playing a 20 minute film titled We Will Remember, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum.pl Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip Dom Spotkań z Historią tickets allow visitors the chance ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl to personalize the museum A huge Insider favorite, the History experience as never before. Over Meeting House wins points for 5,000 objects are present, among frequently excellent exhibitions them his pocket watch, last that cover topics such as ‘rebuild- piano, a lock of hair and even his ing Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist death mask.

The Great Football Exhibition Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 Aside from a seemingly random collection of shirts, pennants and scarves, the ‘great’ exhibition features such enigmatic plunder as ‘a plate with engraved signatures’, ‘a cup from the fans of Cambridge’, and, this is the best bit, ‘a shoe from the Croatian F.A., 2008’. No further explanations, nothing. Mystifying treasures aside, there’s a foosball table and a scattering of X-Box machines, not all of which are broken. Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113a The gallery hosts contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. After, check the sculptures set around the palace gardens. From May 18: Skontrum: a collection of sculpture without titles or dates. The idea is for viewers to form their own narrative. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s

favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl A very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide the visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Mirosław Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Till May 20: Angry Birds, an exhibition of works from hot new Russian talents. National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl The National Museum reopens for business on the Night of Museums following a thorough refit. Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. More info next issue. The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org This long awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which dating from the 60s and 70s. Opening to coincide with the Night of Museums, we’ll be back next issue for a suitably glittery feature. Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

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Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Of interest, a brilliant interactive display of wartime Warsaw. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.

Ongoing: Polish Inventions as seen at World Exhibitions. Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk. Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Till May 20: Emotikon. Robert Rumas & Piotr Wyrzykowski.

Insider’s Pick May 19 Night of the Museums Various locations, www.noc-muzeow.pl

aunched in Berlin, 1997, the Night of the Museums concept has exported successfully to over 120 countries – not least of them Poland. Running here since 2003, the premise, if you’re unfamiliar, is thus: keep Warsaw’s museums open for the night and charge those who visit a total of zilch. Unsurprisingly, the initiative has gone down a storm. If it sounds fun, you’re right, but there’s also so much more than just your standard museum experience. Anticipate a series of one-off events, exhibits and concerts, with Warsaw’s museums all trying to out-do the other. That’s a particularly tough task this time round though, not least because the date marks the ribbon cutting on two greats: The National Museum will be celebrating it’s reopening in grand style, with President Komorowski scheduled to appear. A little less black tie will be the overdue launch of the Neon Muzeum. Elsewhere, the Uprising Museum will be holding family field games inspired by Wojtek the Soldier Bear (and no, he’s not an element of fiction, but a real life bear who fought with Polish forces at Monte Cassino), open-air films and an exhibition featuring the wonders of the world. The Chopin Museum promises to exhibit its collection in new, innovative ways, while the planentarium in the Copernicus plan an extravagant light show. The Zachęta will be organizing a evening of electronic music, and Dom Spotkań z Historią will use the opportunity to reveal three new displays – as well as a darkroom to teach shutterbugs the art of photo development. There is, of course, a whole lot more: check the web closer the time for additional details.

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INFRONT CAFE CULTURE 11 / COMMUNITY 15 / EURO 2012 14 / FILM 12 / LOCAL INTEREST 12 / MEDIA 12 / PRL 16 / QUOTE 15 / STATS 14 / TRANSPORTATION 14 / TRENDS 18

CAFE CULTURE

Off the Wall PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Long before the designer stores moved in, Plac Trzech Krzyży’s principal claim to fame was her cafes. Ever since late Tsarist times the area was something of a café hub, and this continued after WWII. Opened in 1954, Lajkonik (pl. Trzech Krzyży 16) was possibly the most celebrated. Attracting an artsy crowd, it wasn’t long before the aforementioned creatives got proactive in decorating their den with colorful caricatures. Among others, Konstanty Sopocko painted ‘Not Everyone in Paris Looks Good in a Negligee,’ a saucy piece of art featuring a stockinged hussy applying some lipstick. Jerzy Flisak added a pitchfork wielding devil, while Irena Kuczborska contributed a come-hither looking mermaid. Yet despite its latent historical value, Lajkonik was sold in 2003, and its new owners set about plastering over the murals. Another link to the past was severed – or so it seemed. Emerging as something of an unlikely hero, Starbucks took control of the premises earlier this year, and having cooperated with the Museum of Caricature to restore the wall art, reopened for biz a couple of months back.

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INFRONT

BRIEFING

LOCAL INTEREST

Ad a Boy!

The sight of buxom young ladies merrily cavorting in bikinis or a giant close up of David Beckham’s “golden balls” are soon to be consigned to history in central Warsaw, or at least until after Euro 2012. That’s because UEFA bigwigs have declared that the massive billboards, such as those seen on the side of the Novotel, conflict with the sponsors messages at the city center fan parks organized for this summer’s tournament. FILM

Snakes in a Cinema The Battle for Warsaw 1920 was declared Poland’s worst 3D film of 2011 at the country’s inaugural Snake Awards, a Polski version of the Golden Raspberries. Given that it’s Poland’s only ever 3D film made, it was a pretty much nailed on favorite for this particular gong. More impressively, the flick bagged silverware in other more hotly contested categories: Most Embarrassing Scene, Worst Duet, Worst Screenplay, and Worst Actress. Top prize though went to Wyjazd Integracyjny, a booze and boobs ice cream-based comedy.

Big Mac and Lies

A collective groan went up when, at the end of April, it was announced that Poland’s largest McDonald’s had been given the green light to open on the proposed sight of Warsaw’s Museum of Modern Art. Set on pl. Defilad, the supersize take-out will be located in the Euro 2012 fanzone, and handle an estimated 5,000 orders per day. While officials stress the project is a temporary stopgap to deal with the influx of fans, locals have moved quickly to vent their anger at the city. Fuelling suspicions that Ronald McDonald will remain long after the fans have left is news that the McDonald’s opposite – Poland’s first – will close once the Sezam store on Swiętokrzyska is redeveloped. Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 M a y 2 0 1 2

PHOTOGRAPHS TOP KEVIN DEMARIA, BOTTOM MCDONALDS PRESS MATERIAL

MEDIA

Enjoy the view from the highest hotel bar located on the 40th floor! Panorama Bar & Lounge opened daily 18:00 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 02:00

Panorama Bar & Lounge 40th floor Warsaw Marriott Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, 00-697 Warsaw Facebook: PanoramaBarLounge, T: 22 630 5030/22 630 7435, events@panoramabar.pl, panoramabar.pl

INFRONT

BRIEFING TRANSPORTATION

MEDIA

A new train service linking the airport with the city center is scheduled to be unveiled on June 1. Some 96% of the zł. 366 million bill has been covered by EU cash, yet even so the scheme isn’t without its detractors; replacing the popular 175 bus route, critics have railed against the project declaring it a pointless extravagance. It’s estimated the link will trim just five minutes off the standard bus time, while covering a paltry five stops.

There seems to be a bit of an obsession about politicians' pussies in Poland. First of all, the death of former Prime Minister Jarosław Kaczyński's cat Alik made front page news at the end of 2011. This year, the Polish media reported that former Russia President Dmitry Medvedev's cat Dorofiej had gone missing and that he had recruited the law in a bid to try and find his moggy. In the end it was revealed as a hoax, and one Polish hacks plans to have some fun as part of April Fool's day. Other japes at the start of last month included a report that a modern day chapter of the Teutonic Knights had reclaimed Poland's historic Malbork Castle as their private property, and that Silesian authorities had decided to co-join Częstochowa and Katowice to form one giant municipality.

Cat Fools Poles

STATS

It’s official! Poland has been voted the 10th rudest country in the world following an online poll by Skyscanner. With a 2.2% slice of the vote, the Poles found themselves roundly trounced by the French who came out on top with a staggering 19.2% share.

EURO 2012

Daylight Robbery

With sporting events like Euro 2012 you can usually guarantee a couple of things. One, you’ll have to use extreme cunning to think of excuses to cut out of work early. And two, you’ll be bombarded at every turn by sharks peddling tat masquerading as must-have souvenirs. Try flying out of Warsaw without being fleeced zł. 100 for a pair of fluffy hand-holding mascots called Slavek or Slavko – I can confirm it’s pretty much impossible. Other must-have items include the rather bum official UEFA bum bag, with a stylish blue design straight out of 1991: yours for just zł. 90. The more discerning fan can grab a pair of Polish eagle car wing mirrors – less than $2 online – or for those sweltering hot summer nights snap up the Polish Euro 2012 hand fan (zł.50), another essential accessory you can’t leave home without. Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 M a y 2 0 1 2

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT AGENCJA ARCHITEKTONICZNA CENTRUM, SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA, COURTESY OF WBJ, KEVIN DEMARIA.

Trainspotting

QUOTE OF THE MONTH

COMMUNITY

Diddly Squat

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m lazy. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lazy people who invented the wheel and the bicycle because they didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like walkingâ&#x20AC;?

Warsaw cops swooped on the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s legendary Elba squat at the end of March, evicting the soap dodgers who had made the former warehouse their home for the last eight years. With plenty of TV cameras on hand to record the event, the police have since been slated for using thug tactics against opponents heavily armed with fruit and sandwiches. For their part, the squatters have found a new place to call home â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ul. Skorupki 6 in the city center. With another police vs. people standoff brewing, the latest developments have sparked debate questioning the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stance on promoting artistic sub-cultures.

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INFRONT

PRL PAGE (’52-’89) HISTORY

MUSIC

Luxury, Murder, Intrigue

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM LEFT: WIKICOMMONS, AGENCJA FORUM, KEVIN DEMARIA(2)

Identified by his trademark black hat and enthusiastic beard, Czesław Niemen (1939-2004) requires no introduction. Celebrated for ballads like Sen o Warszawie and Dziwny jest ten Świat, his heyday came in the 70s during which time he cemented a reputation as one of Poland’s top musicians. No sniggering there – Marlene Dietrich was so impressed by his rendition of Czy Mnie Jeszcze Pamiętasz she later recorded her own customized version.

Think of PRL Poland and the immediate reaction is to envision winding queues and civil unrest. But on the opposite end of the scale, and accessible to the privileged few, were places like the Victoria Hotel – bastions of luxury amid the grinding poverty. Built on the ruins of the Kronenberg Palace the Victoria’s completion, in 1976, offered locals a tantalizing glimpse of Western style. Constructed at a time when First Secretary Gierek was propelling Poland forward with his half-mad economics, the Victoria was immediately installed as the top hotel in town. From the start, scandal and conspiracy were never far away. The bar was something of a modern day Platinium, and a magnet for hot local girls and international travelers. A favored haunt of visiting Middle Eastern ‘biznesmen’ (read: arms dealers), it was in 1981 that a chap called Tahar Sharlik Mahdi was brazenly gunned down. A key player in a shady terrorist cell called Black September (the nutters responsible for the 1972 Munich Olympics massacre), the Palestinian was allegedly passing through to plot the assassination of the Egyptian president. His killer was never caught. The hotel was also home to a Pewex store, a domestic chain offering premium western goods (Old Spice! ) in return for hard currency. For the overwhelming majority, however, the best chance of viewing the Victoria was via the TV – and there were plenty of opportunities for that. Scores of cult films and serials were shot here, not least the PRL cop show 07 Zgłoś Się. Today, the hotel has lost none of its magic; under the stewardship of Sofitel for the last 12 years, it remains one of the five star stalwarts of corporate travel.

GIFTS

FOOD

As Warsaw waltzes towards a cash-rich future, it’s not just the state-run milk bars that face hard times. Spare a thought for the traditional confectioners, slowly phased out in favor of boutique bakeries and international chains. New isn’t always better, and evidence of this comes in the form of Pracownia (Żelazna 64). Set on the lower floor of a disintegrating tenement, this little time capsule is one for the watch list. With its laminate tables and grubby tiled floors, this place hasn’t seen a makeover since before you were born. But the donuts are excellent – wrapped in paper, then tied up with string, no one does them better...

Looking for unique gift ideas for the folk back home? Well, a bottle of vodka and an amber broach just ain’t going to cut it – you already gave those out at Christmas, remember. So, how about this then, a place retailing quirky items celebrating Poland’s communist past – and, you don’t even have to slip out of your morning toga. Click your mouse to spodlady. com to find a barnstorming web page vending iconic t-shirts, classic signs, coffee table books and hilarious fridge magnets. Our favorite detail mind (apart from the Basia Atomizer deodorant), the dinky toy cars: heck, why not re-live the laughs of Martial Law with a Milicja motor.

Seta META Galareta –

“Feel the atmosphere of the PRL” Relive the atmopshere of the PRL at our two venues, enjoying an authentic menu of tatar, śledzik, flaki and bigos – chased, of course, with vodka and beer. Find that and more in our downtown Seta META Galareta restaurants. With a classic menu designed by celebrity chef Robert Sowa, it's the perfect place to visit for a pre-party, after party or THE party! Visit us to feel the amazing atmosphere of the PRL. ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21 Open 11:00-6:00

www.warsawinsider.pl

INFRONT

TRENDS

BY ALEX WEBBER

Champagne Lifestyle

With three champagne bars now drumming for trade, the people of Warsaw have discovered that fizz is the biz.

CHAMPAGNE BARS

Bar 13 with Rene Geoffroy ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac Department Store) Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar ul. Mokotowska 43 Le Champagnerie ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów)

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PHOTOGRAPH BY SHUTTERSTOCK

ou really don’t have to go back far to remember the time when drinking in Warsaw meant choosing between liquor and lager, vodka and Warka. Now though, Poland’s capital is fast adopting global trends and tastes, and nothing reflects that as much as its recently discovered taste for a glass of bubbles. Yes, at long last, Warsaw nightlife has embraced a new sub-genre: the champagne bar. Opened within seconds of each other, it’s hard establishing which is the original – all three of Warsaw’s champagne bars claim to have launched first, and short of identifying their dental records validating such claims appears an impossible ask. But who cares anyway, it’s not because of history that all three thrive. Le Champagnerie, for instance, have put their Galeria Mokotów location to good use. Attracting Barbie and Ken super-couples enjoying some post-retail relief, you’ll find this place quite literally standing in the center of a corridor aisle. There’s something breathlessly boastful about ordering Veuve while shoppers scurry by, but the concept clearly works. Also tapping into the champers for shoppers demographic is Bar 13 with Rene Geoffroy. Found in the Vitkac luxury department store, it’s metallic and modern with champagne not just limited to the big houses, but more artisan names. Last of the lot check Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar, a chessboard colored venue with a pristine, boutique style and the added benefit of not being in a mall.

MUSEUMS JEWISH HISTORY

A NEW MUSEUM FOR SOCIAL CHANGE?

istorically, to an even greater extent than it is today at Europe’s frontier, Warsaw was the crossroads of east and west. The population mix had a significant cross-section of Europeans: numerous French and German cultural figures often visited – as well as the odd Englishman such as Lewis Carroll. Some surprises included Scottish ancestors of the ship-building and porcelain trades, among them Poland’s foremost poet Bolesław Leśmian’s mother. Cultural life reflected a nation that always looked west rather than east, even in the worst times when split into three from the 1790s to 1918. The largest of these ethnic group were Jewish, who for centuries migrated to the country known in Hebrew as ‘here thou shalt lodge’ in the wake of European intolerance. Until 1939 Jews comprised over 30% of Warsaw’s population. It was not always harmonious, even among the Mosaic faith. So many variant religious paths led to a split in the 19th century into Orthodox and Progressive as well as breakaway Frankism. Speakers of Yiddish – a language without formal grammar derived from German or Spanish (Sephardic) backgrounds – were looked down upon by those preferring Hebrew or Polish. Memoirs tell us that not all could practice their faith fully, as poverty among

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the majority resulted in inability to keep Kosher or even purchase candles, both of which were taxed and collected by Orthodox Jews under government licence. Numbers today in Poland are difficult to determine, but were recently estimated at 35-40,000. There’s a large international music celebration annually in Kraków, always featured on state television, but traces are rarely seen in Warsaw even though a smaller festival has also run since 2004. There used to be, on anniversaries, the poignant sight of a period tram with the Star of David replacing the number, but it seems to have been derailed. The history is not easy to find unless one penetrates the back streets and beyond. A fragment of wall remains at 55 Sienna Street, but locked behind a courtyard gate. Off Grzybowski Square, with its isolated Jewish restaurant and klezmer band, ul. Próżna remains as a haunting reminder, propped up by huge wood-blocks with nets to protect passers-by from debris. Sepia pictures of former inhabitants stare from the windows, an artistic tribute to a murdered community. Nearby was born the Nobel Prize winner Isaac Bashevis Singer, and Janusz Korczak, the doctor-teacher whose care for his orphan children is one of history’s most moving stories of heroism. This has been designated his

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESTY OF THE MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF POLISH JEWS

As it slowly reaches its final stages of development, the Insider takes a closer look at the Museum of the History of Polish Jews. BY BRIAN BANKS

“ The plan is a story-telling museum, a chronicle based on eye-witnesses testimony, to honour them not by their deaths but their lives”

year by UNESCO, though notice slipped passed most of us. Now there is to be a Museum of the History of Polish Jews in the old Jewish quarter of Muranów that during the war imprisoned 400,000 people. After regular announcements since the corner-stone from the original Judenrat was laid (Barack Obama visited the site in 2011), it will open in April 2013 to coincide with the 70th anniversary of their Uprising. Roman Polanski’s acclaimed The Pianist in 2002, filmed in Praga, featured this tragedy. The museum’s cost of 20 million Euros is funded by private investors (Deutsche Bank, Lot etc.) under the control of the Federal Foreign Office, until handed over to the City. The five-storeys will look quite spectacular, with a frontage symbolising the ‘rupture’ of the Holocaust and undulating walls in allusion to the Biblical parting of the Red Sea. There will be a virtual shtetl (Jewish district) and journeys around Poland, what the city’s president Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz called “a living museum located in a place scarred by death.” Seven years down the road, I asked its architect, Rainer Mahlamaki, the 55 year-old President of the Association of Finnish Architects, if there was a model for his design chosen from 11 finalists: “No, this is a completely unique model, museums always are. It was my first project outside Poland. Before I didn’t know much about Jewish culture, or Polish culture except the films of Wajda and Kieslowski, but this job is very rewarding in the sense one gets to know many kinds of people and their interests. Now I know a bit more about them both!” Nitzan Reisner of the Jewish Institute says the museum’s aim is to focus not only on the Holocaust but the socio

cultural history of the last thousand years across Poland, including Galicia, now in west Ukraine. The banner is “seeking the truth,” to encourage debate and not dictate one view of the past. “There is no single museum voice,” she adds, echoing Chief Rabbi Michael Schudrich’s view. The plan is a story-telling museum, a chronicle based on eye-witnesses testimony, to honor them not by their deaths but their lives. Until now one relied on the internet, e.g. www.mojahistoria.eu and Yizkor for memories. It’ll be intriguing which cultural figures will be chosen as representative from such a wide spectrum as Bruno Schulz, Julian Tuwim, the Communist Aleksander Wat and ex-Talmudist Julian Stryjkowski. We often hear of the Jewish influence on other cultures, but rarely of the same mutual process in reverse. Culture is a two-way street. Jews and Poles lived side by side, even if not totally integrated in the modern sense. The association was once integral to the fabric of the country. Organisers hope the museum will be a catalyst for civic social change in the nation’s thinking. Will it counter the bookshops full of Hitlerism and the dashing hero Hans Kloss? Should Warsaw’s Uprising Museum have included both rebellions? There are big claims, or hopes, regarding dual histories where the largest Jewish population on the planet resided before the formation of Israel, and most of its leaders like the first Prime Minister Ben-Gurion had their roots. Forty two years after Chancellor Willy Brandt kneeled here in silent repentance, said to be a turning-point in German-Polish relations, another chapter of the book of the past that also looks to the future is opened. www.warsawinsider.pl

Sponsored Feature

150 YEARS OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM

he transformation of the NMW's image collides in time with the 150th anniversary of the National Museum in Warsaw, starting on 17 May 2012. The honorary patronage will be assumed by the President of the Republic of Poland, Bronisław Komorowski. The most important changes currently taking place in the NMW include: • a rich program of temporary exhibitions and artistic and educational events (concerts, picnics, workshops, lectures, encounters with artists); • the rearrangement and relocation of the permanent galleries in the main building of the NMW; • the creation of a new visual and informational identification of the NMW, comprising the main building and the sections based on a collection of congruent, modern standards promoting and enhancing the brand of the Museum – the competition will be wound up at the beginning of April 2012; • the revitalization of the main courtyard and the restoration of the Stanisław Lorentz Courtyard, the opening of the

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cafeteria and the renovated cinema auditorium, running an ongoing programme of film screenings and encounters with creatives; • the publication of the latest generation of bilingual multimedia guides; • provision of an open wireless Wi-Fi network within the public space of the NMW. The transformation of the NMW's image will be geared toward building a diversified program for the Museum, suited to the varied needs of the visitors. A particular emphasis will be placed upon creating a spacious, friendly educational venue with a rich offering for children, prepared by teams of expert animators. The goal of these transformations is also to highlight the presence of the NMW on the cultural map of Poland and Europe and to make the Museum a most attractive place to spend free time both for individuals as well as for families with children.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM IN WARSAW

The National Museum in Warsaw (NMW) is currently undergoing an unprecedented change, which will transform it into a modern edifice with a rich tradition, open in terms of both architecture and program.

Sponsored Feature

INAUGURATION OF THE ANNIVERSARY – MAY 17–19/20 2012 17 May, Thursday (invite only) • opening of the Museum with the participation of the President of the Republic of Poland, Bronisław Komorowski, cocktails in the Stanisław Lorentz Courtyard • opening of the exhibition “Those Elevated Ones. From the Pharaoh to Lady Gaga” 18 May, Friday (open to the public) • opening and presentation of the Stanisław Lorentz Courtyard, concerts, family picnic 19/20 May, Saturday/Sunday, the Night of the Museums • films, concerts, educational and artistic/cultural events in both courtyards SCHEDULE OF ANNIVERSARY EXHIBITIONS “Those Elevated Ones. From the Pharaoh to Lady Gaga”, 18 May - 23 September 2012 The exhibition will present social and political hierarchies and the mechanisms for creating prestige, position and the image of people in power or having aspirations to power – beginning with the ancient hierarchical societies up to contemporary media culture. “In the Shadow of the Master. Sara Lipska” (Królikarnia), 19 August - 4 November 2012 An anthological exhibition presenting the work of Sara Lipska (1882-1973), a Polish artist living in Paris, and the muse of Xawery Dunikowski. She was active in a number of domains: decorative and portrait sculpture, painting, stage and costume design as well as fashion. She designed for, among others, Helena Rubinstein, Sergei Diagilev and Antoine Cierplikowski, and portrayed the most famous figures of the Parisian art scene. Exhibition of photo-journalists from the weekly magazine “Świat”, 22 February - 12 May 2013 The exhibition will present for the first time in a museum environment photographs that were taken between 1951 and 1969 for the weekly magazine “Świat”; it will, moreover, attempt to characterize the figures of the leading photo-journalists of this colour magazine. On display will be the press photography as it was practised during the Communist era by photographers who combined their daily work as journalists with artistic activity. The photographs that were published will be juxtaposed with those that couldn't enter into public circulation. Exhibition of Oriental Art “Journey to the East”, 22 February - 12 May 2013 The exhibition presents the most precious artefacts from the NMW Oriental Art Collection and will comprise selected works of Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Tibetan and Mongolian art, as well as Islamic art. The exhibition will show examples of Far-Eastern painting, sculpture, woodcut and craftsmanship from the 17th to the beginning of the 20th century; sculpture, painting, arts and crafts from India and from the sphere of the Lamaic art, as well as miniature paintings and handicrafts (carpets, glass, ceramics) from Muslim countries.

“EUROPA JAGELLONICA 1386-1572. Culture and Art of Middle Europe During the Reign of the House of Jagiellon”, 26 October 2012 – 27 January 2013 An international exhibition dedicated to the Jagiellon dynasty and their activities in the areas of art, culture, science and humanities, economy and dynastic relations will be presented in the Czech Republic, Poland and Germany. The exhibition is co-financed by the European Commission within the programme “Culture 2007–2013”. “MARK ROTHKO. Painterly Works from the Collection of the National Gallery of Art in Washington D.C.”, 31 May - 1 September 2013 At the exhibition will be presented the works of one of the most eminent American artists of the 20th century, the outstanding representative of colour field painting. The exhibition will be a momentous event closing the Anniversary Year at the National Museum in Warsaw. “ALEKSANDER GIERYMSKI 1850-1901. Life and Work”, 2014 A monographic exhibition dedicated to one of the most eminent Polish painters of the second half of the 19th century. It makes reference to the first exhibition that took place in 1938, after the opening of the new building of the National Museum in Al. Jerozolimskie, that had been dedicated precisely to this artist. The attraction of the exhibition, presenting approximately 250 works of painting and drawing, will be the recently recovered painting by Aleksander Gierymski: Jewish Woman Selling Oranges. www.warsawinsider.pl

CITY WALK SOUTH CENTRAL WARSAW

THE BIG KON-STYTUCJI

With the winter warfare gear packed away for another six months the Insider resumes its series of city walks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; deep in the South Central badlands. BY ALEX WEBBER 24 Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 M a y 2 0 1 2

WITH THE TOUR GROUPS already beginning to potter and patter around the Old Town, the Insider points its compass in a south central direction – an area of sharp architectural contrast and history in abundance. More known for its busy bars and honking horns, it’s an underestimated gem that’s ideal for a dawdle.

KOSZYKOWA WEST The jigsaw of architectural styles jolts you the moment you begin at the fork which splits Wilcza and Koszykowa. Walking down towards Pl. Konstytucji, to your left stands the grim looking University of Chemical Technology, its dull brick walls lightened by the seemingly random painted form of a dove. Added in communist www.warsawinsider.pl

CITY WALK SOUTH CENTRAL WARSAW

PL. KONSTYTUCJI Even in a city not short on socialist stains, Pl. Konstytucji is a bit of a breathtaker. Sometimes

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referred to as the ‘propaganda district’ it was here that the commie town planners really went nuts and let idealism run free. “A stone wedding cake covered with balconies built of boulders,” wrote one critic, and it’s easy to see his point. Much of the area survived the war, albeit with plenty of nicks and knocks, yet that wasn’t enough to save it. Working to a Socialist Realist template, age old tenements were bulldozed before being replaced by the bombastic monstrosity you see right ahead (cleverly, the street plan was purposefully designed to mask Saviour’s Church down on pl. Zbawiciela). Built as a showpiece district for good-ranking communists (rents were set at a then eye-watering zł. 1,000), its construction was followed eagerly by the press who reported, in gushing terms, on the Herculean graft – Józef Gutowski, we’re told, smashed the Polish glazing record while exceeding his work quota by 510%. Opened to much fanfare and applause on 22 July 1952, the square was topped with monumental lamp posts and magnificent reliefs of socialist heroes – a miner, a bricklayer, a female teacher etc. Of course, as time clocked by this Utopian settlement fell by the way. In the 80s, famous footage of a Solidarity protestor being flattened by a militia truck was filmed here, while the 90s brought with it an invasion of Vietnamese hawkers – resembling Hanoi in miniature, the number of Vietnamese food cabins reached critical mass. Today, all that is a far cry. Buffed with giant posters advertising mobile operators, the clash between communism and capitalism is biting and acute. KOSZYKOWA EAST Resume acquaintance with Koszykowa by heading through the ‘tunnel bit’ on the opposite side. Now this end of Koszykowa has pretty much zero to see, with the highlight reserved for pl. Na Rozdrożu at the very end. The dry concrete fountain is typical of the socialist follies found around town, though hopes are high the summer will once again see the return of the UFO – the Unexpected Fountain Occupation, a temporary bar/hostel/pool/tent that made all sorts of headlines when it landed last year. Having

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

times, the dove was a popular symbol, and seen as a swipe at the west and its wicked war mongering ways. But if that’s a relic of state communism, let a remnant of independence be the building at No. 70. Marshal Józef Piłsudski, the man largely credited with restoring the Polish state in 1918, lived here between 1922 and 1923. Another ‘they lived here’ plaque celebrates Norbert Barlicki, the leader of Poland’s pre-war Socialist Party – later killed in Auschwitz. The building itself made it past the war, but fared less successfully during the sixties. For reasons unknown, the decorations and top floor were lopped off by an over-eager architect with more power than sense. But don’t think lunatic architects were exclusive to the sixties. Evidence of barking modern madness comes in the shape of Hala Koszyki at No. 61/63. Having trouble spotting it? That’s because most of it has been knocked down. Completed in 1906, this historic market hall was demolished a few years back – amazingly, with the approval of the local conservation department. Justifying their decision, the city claims developers are under obligation to rebuild a faithful copy, yet even so their reasoning seems iffy – an original is not original if it’s actually a copy… Even so, a couple of wings have survived, and with them, a few fading traces of art nouveau flourishes. Ironically, it’s fair to say a few of these blooping architects actually cut their teeth on Koszykowa. The University’s Department of Architecture is found at No. 55, with alumni numbering the fantastic Stefan Kuryłowicz (Prosta Tower, Focus Filtrowa) and Arseniusz Romanowicz (Warsaw Centralna). As you approach the monolithic Pl. Konstytucji, make a detour – quickly. The pre-war street plan was radically altered around this way, but in the courtyard behind Pl. Kon, you’ll find a couple of battered looking tenements that were inexplicably forgotten when the wrecking crew moved in. Find this blast to the past inside the yard at No. 49.

“ Buffed with giant posters advertising mobile operators, the clash between communism and capitalism is biting and acute” From left; Pl. Konstytucji, scaring strollers are Socialist Realist reliefs from the Stalin years. Dolina Szwajcarska, an inner city oasis.

been unimpressed by this sorry bit of concrete, go north up Ujazdowskie, but not before noting the memorial built into the wall on the corner – from ’39 to ’45 one thousand Polish soldiers were killed and tortured here. DOLINA SZWAJCARSKA From Ujazdowskie nip to the left on Al. Róż and past the former British Embassy. Warsaw has many hidden secrets, but few command the aesthetic power of Dolina Szwajcarska (Swiss Valley). Created as an orchard in the late 1700s, it was turned over for public use in 1827. Within years it’d assumed position as something of a social hub, with beer stalls and a bandstand pulling in the punters. Sensing a buck, more attractions were added, among them fire eaters, sword swallowers and an ice rink. In fact, it’s not hard to see it a precursor to last summer’s Moomin bar down in Powiśle – only superior. Originally covering an area of 4.5 hectares, the party was well truly pooped by the Germans. The proximity to Gestapo HQ on Szucha, and numerous other sinister Nazi institutions, made it something of a no-go zone, and after the war it was shrunk down to its current size. Now bereft of the enticements of old, it’s nonetheless one of Warsaw’s finest parks – a charming little oasis with winding paths, a sunken garden and a fountain featuring a pair of lip-sticked cherubs grappling with turtles and crocs. AL. UJAZDOWSKIE Having passed a monument to a certain General Grot (a war hero killed in Sachsenhausen), you’ll find yourself on Ujazdowskie, an august boulevard bristling with national banners. Lined with intricate palaces, it’s something of an embassy row – and not without its story. For instance, check the commemorative boulder opposite number 23/25. That marks the spot where a group of Poles ambushed SS honcho Franz Kutschera on 1 February 1944, spraying his limo with gun fire. It was one of the most high profile assassinations seen in Warsaw, and not without consequence – the next day 100 random Poles were shot in revenge. Further on, and the sheer ornamental value of the

manors and mansions can’t fail but impress – so prepare for a short, sharp shock with the sight of the US Embassy (wave to the statue of Reagan opposite). Monumental in its ugliness, nay, catastrophic, one assumes this concrete carbuncle was built on a ruin. Ha! Wrong!! The Czetwertyński Palace which once stood here actually survived the war intact. Rented by its rightful owners to Polish Radio, the immediate post-war years saw the Czetwertyński’s rounded up and pulled in for spying… for the Americans. It was while battling for their name / survival, the yanks stepped in – not to help the Czetwertyński’s, but to buy their home while the family served time. The rest is history – with the Czetwertyński’s locked up the Americans demolished their palace and set about constructing the spy-proof bastion you see to this day. And what of the Czetwertyński’s? They’re still pursuing a restitution claim all these many years on. WILCZA The war figures highly round this part of town, and as you reach the Ujazdowskie / Wilcza turning you’ll note a small marker hanging from the wall. It’s round here hundreds of insurgents slipped down into the sewers on the night of 26 and 27 September 1944, escaping the Nazis as the Uprising drew to its bloody conclusion. But that’s not the only thing that sets Wilcza 2 apart. In pre-war times it was regarded as Warsaw’s most haunted house, manifested by the ghost of gentleman butchered by his servant in a blood-curdling way. Since the war all signs of this unhappy chappie have all but disappeared, replaced instead by the apparition of young German officer. If you ignore the incredible piles of dog waste, and the brothel flyers scattered like confetti, then you’ll see Wilcza for what it is – a beautiful relic of bygone times. Not all of it survived the bombs, however, and one case in point is the building at 12. Bołesław Prus, the celebrated boy soldier / agoraphobic / best-selling writer, lived here (the marker incorrectly sites him as living here two years before he was born - doh), though you’re going to have to use your imagination on this one. The building is strictly post-war, www.warsawinsider.pl

CITY WALK SOUTH CENTRAL WARSAW

Ujazdow skie

Wilc

Koszykowa

1 Dove of Peace 2 Piłsudski House 3 Hala Koszyki 4 Department of Architecture 5 Pre-War Leftover 6 Pl. Konstytucji 7 War Memorial 8 Swiss Valley 9 U.S. Embassy 10 Haunted House 11 Prus House 12 Police Station 13 Squat 14 Tsarist Billboard 15 Rialto Hotel 16 War Relic

and you’d never really guess that it was once the pad of a literary legend. As you cross Krucza, you’ll pass Poland’s oldest dance school standing at Wilcza 19. Operating since 1929, it continues to do roaring trade. But contain yourself; this is no place for an impromptu moonwalk. Indeed, even Warsaw’s cheery troop of drunks tip toe past No. 21. Home to the local cop shop, it’s here Lech Wałęsa was briefly imprisoned after Martial Law was declared in ’81. Lucky for him his incarceration down here didn’t last long – not soon after, he was spirited to the secret govt. retreat of Arłamow. Described by Timothy Garton Ash as, “an apparatchiks Xanadu,” features of this little known retreat included a staff of Cuban prostitutes and a eunuch commander – I kid you not. Having pondered that interesting interlude, get your mind back on Wilcza. No. 30 is currently in the hands of the squatters, and if you don’t mind the repugnant odors escaping from their trousers, you could do worse than pleading for an impromptu tour – their psychedelic murals are magnificent, though how long this remains Warsaw’s shout to Haight Ashbury is open to question – the local gendarmes are not happy with their presence. Providing an interesting contrast to the shabby art nouveau splendor of Wilcza are pieces of the MDM development. On the corners, either side of Marszałkowska, find super Stalinist details – the first, a relief of two head

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scarfed peasants picking grapes then, on the other side, a great big clock that was brought from Sopot in several parts. From there, you find yourself entering the vortex – this part of Wilcza might be low in sights, but it’s not low on bites… or booze. The bar scene has erupted round this way, with personal highlights including the expat intrigues of Warsaw Tortilla Factory, the regional beers of Kwadrat, and the leftfield atmosphere of Znajomi Znajomych. If you must, resist their temptations, and instead head back to the start. On the way, crossing Emilii Plater, you won’t miss the old style adverts on the walls of Emilii Plater 9. Originally painted during Tsarist times, the Cyrillic / Polish lettering announces the copper foundry business of Adolf Witt & Son; it’s a far cry from the modern billboards that cover the town. And that’s not the only nod to the past. Soak in the atmosphere of the 30s in the Rialto Hotel (Wilcza 73). Decorated from top-to-bottom in art deco finds, this luxury hotel (random famous guest: Venus Williams) is straight from the pages of Jeeves & Wooster. That’s all the more amazing when you consider it was essentially a wrecked looking ruin at the start of the noughties. Hit hard during the war, it was only till recently the area got a brush – the results are evident by the posh set of flats opposite at No. 72, themselves featuring a preserved piece of bullet riddled wall.

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TRAVEL PŁOCK

PICK PŁOCK

n spite of its proximity to the capital, I’m wagering that Płock is unmapped territory for all but a small clutch of readers. Perched on the Wisła, 110K west of Warsaw, it’s remotely possible you might know it on an account of the petrol industry, though probable you don’t know it all. An oil city it might be, but Dallas it ain’t. Płock might be home to the largest refinery in Poland, but comparisons to any other oil town stop there. That her twin towns include Thurrock, Forli and Balti (a town in Moldova, not the Indian curry), speaks loudly. Speaking louder still, is the reality of Płock – this is not normal Poland: where else, in this fine nation, can you find yourself standing in the market square with no soul in sight; I’m not talking about 3 a.m., I’m talking about 3 p.m. On a Saturday. In spring. Granted, it was belting down with sleet, snow and slime, but that’s hardly the point. The point is people just don’t seem to visit. I’m writing about it because they should.

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RESEARCH I bowled up with a hefty copy of a 12 year old

Rough Guide. Needless to say, Płock’s changed since the days Mr. Smarty’s was recommended as the best restaurant in town. Instead, I found myself relying on the handy leaflets printed by the city – not only are they highly useful, they’re bloody hilarious. Take this random review, for the restaurant at the fantastically titled PetroChemia Hotel: “The head chef recommends the alcoholic beverages.” Not exactly a glowing endorsement of his own kitchen talents, but certainly forthright and honest.

SIGHTSEEING Reputed to be the oldest settlement in

Mazovia, Płock features a deliciously charming old town running horizontally next to the Wisła. The 17 year old Frederyk Chopin was so taken by it during his teenage travels, he made a special point of writing home to tell the folks about it. The focal point of his tour, and no doubt yours, was the Rynek, a skinny oblong shaped space

PHOTOGRAPH LEFT COURTESY OF PŁOCK CITY HALL, RIGHT BROWAR TUMSKI

It might not be the first name out of the cap when planning a weekend out of Dodge, but the charms of Płock aren’t to be underestimated. BY ALEX WEBBER

“ Reputed to be the oldest

settlement in Mazovia, Płock features a deliciously charming old town running horizontally next to the Wisła” Oppostie page: Płock's Romanesque Cathedral stares out across the Wisła. This page: a brew with a view, the 19th century town hall as seen from the garden of Browar Tumski

lined with pretty townhouses and crowned with a city hall modeled on the Belvedere building in Łazienki. In 1831, the last parliamentary session of the Sejm took place before Poland was swallowed up by conquering powers. Known among locals as ‘little Kraków’ the city is an important place of pilgrimage, and particularly celebrated for its image of Divine Mercy in the convent on the corner of the Rynek. It’s here that Saint Faustyna Kowalska had her first religious revelation back in 1931. Both the picture and her quarters can be viewed. Provided you’re not privy to a miracle yourself, the real highlight in Płock though is the Cathedral – built in Romanesque style, the interiors positively drip with Catholic excess. Noted for its intricate Secession era frescoes, talking points at the Cathedral include the tombs of two Polish rulers – Władysław Herman and Bolełsaw the Wrymouth – and a magnificent set of bronze doors detailing biblical scenes. What you see though are actually copies: the real doors went missing for six centuries before being tracked down in the 1970s to Novogrod by a Polish boffin. Swiped during a Russian incursion, for years Cyrillic inscriptions on the originals had thrown people off the scent by declaring the doors as swag seized from Sweden. Judaism in Płock was all but extinguished by the Nazis, but remnants of the past faintly exist. The former synagogue stands on ul. Kwiatka, while the ‘new cemetery’ on Sportowa features monuments to the Holocaust and ten surviving graves. Finally, no tour of Płock is complete without first visiting the Regional Museum. Housed in the Gothic splendor of a former duke’s castle, its particularly proud of its collection of art from the Młoda Polska period – all the greats are here: Mehoffer, Wyspiański, Malczewski etc. Equally intriguing are the dioramas recreating residential interiors from this period.

HOTELS Płock isn’t kindly endowed with hotels (as in ones

you want to stay in), but it does have some gems. The four star Herman (hotelherman.pl) gets a near perfect scorecard on booking.com, while the Tumski (hoteltumski.pl), comes highly recommended by none other than Drax: my bat man, dogs body and occasional driver. This trip though, I was accompanied by a lovely young pani, and it was on her choice we found ourselves in Willa Adriana (willaadriana. pl). With doubles costed at zł. 289 per night, it’s a fabulous

choice, with a clean, contemporary look and… a brewery on-site! Unfortunately, that bit was closed on our visit, but should be open in time for yours.

EAT I don’t want to say bad things about Płock, so I’ll keep

this bit brief. Mr. Smarty’s, recommended by my (very) Rough Guide has, alas, closed. Instead, we chose Presto for dinner (Rynek 6), a clear candidate for Poland’s rudest restaurant. We entered to the sound of Peaches gnashing on about how she wants to suck this and, err, do that. No sooner had she finished, the town tramp walked in requesting refreshment before falling on his bottom. He was soon ejected, but not before raising the observation that the waitress was a ‘stara kurwa’. Together with the blithe attempt to short change me to the tune of 100 zeds, I was left unimpressed.

DRINK There’s no point going anywhere else than Browar

Tumski (Rynek 13). This microbrewery stands alongside the best I’ve visited, with genuine credit going the way of their honey/wheat mix. Whether you’re a smoker or not, I suggest heading downstairs into the 350 year old vaulted cellars. You’ll stink like a camel by the time you leave, but its all jolly good fun – not so much if you end up locked in the toilet for a large part of the night though. Good food as well, btw and certainly superior to Presto.

Info box GETTING TO PŁOCK IS DEAD SIMPLE – FOUND 110 KILOMETERS WEST OF WARSAW, IT’S JUST A CASE OF GETTING ONTO ROAD 62, BEFORE DRIVING IN A STRAIGHT LINE. • Quick pick up and drop off • A selection of new cars that will impress • For reservations call: +48 22 572 6565 • Friendly English speaking staff Locations: Warsaw Chopin Airport & Marriott Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 www.warsawinsider.pl

BROUGHT TO YOU BY: ENOTEKA

The Uniqueness of Franciacorta Il Mosnel is the rising star of the Franciacorta region of Lombardy, famous for the outstanding quality of its sparkling wines.

WARSAW INSIDER READERS CAN CHOOSE FROM A SELECTION OF THESE THREE OUTSTANDING WINES:

by maciej bombol, owner of enoteka

ranciacorta sparkling wines, rated amongst the best in the world, are produced using the traditional ‘champagne’ method (with the second fermentation occurring in the bottle), as well as with the same grapes as Champagne: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Franciacorta is a magnificent region of gentle morainic hills south of Lago d’Iseo, in the province of Brescia. The name “Franzacurta” appeared for the first time in 13th century documents, quite probably as a reference to an exemption from commercial taxes (franchae curtes), a privilege enjoyed by the local villages. Mosnel, a dialectical word of Celtic origin, means a rock pile. It is also the name of the venerable residence, its adjacent properties, and the 16th century wine cellars, that the have witnessed the centuries-old wine making traditions inherited by the Barboglio family in 1836. A lingering respect for the environment, vineyards planted to high densities, and low yields per vine are the principles that guide the cultivation of the 40 hectare vineyards on the estate, with all directed towards the single goal of producing exceptional raw material: the grapes. “We enjoy the proud privilege of devoting ourselves, with intense devotion, to the art of wine, one of the most satisfying professions one could conceive. Acutely aware of this, we work with our hands, our hearts and souls, with our experience and the slow passage of time: all of these essential ingredients feature in our wines, wines that summon up the impression and the emotion of this land of ours which is so exceptional and intriguing.” Such is the philosophy that inspires Giulio and Lucia Barzanò, Emanuela Barboglio’s children, in their management of the winery, all the time ably assisted by a highly professional, expert staff.

The importer of these wines is: Enoteka Polska, ul. Długa 23/25, Warsaw e-mail: enoteka@enotekapolska.pl

Enoteka is also one of the best restaurants in Warsaw, ranked in 10th position amid 600 venues listed on the Warsaw pages of TripAdvisor

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Franciacorta Brut DOCG (a half price of Champagne with a similar quality but a price of zł 69)

Franciacorta Brut Satèn Millesimato DOCG 2008 (100% Chardonnay, price zł 95.25)

Franciacorta Extra Brut Millesimato “EBB” DOCG 2007 (100% Chardonnay, a top Franciacorta priced at zł 108)

Reviews: Concept 13 40/ British Shop 54 / Pasja Smaku 33 Plus:

* 9 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 33 / AMERICAN & TEX-MEX 33 / ASIAN 34 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 36 / BRITISH 36 / FRENCH 36 / FOOD SHOPS 53 / GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN 37 / HOME DELIVERY 52 / INDIAN 39 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 41 / ITALIAN 45 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 47 / LATIN 50 / POLISH 51 / SEAFOOD 53

Insider’s Pick

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55

KEY Map location.................. (A1) Business meetings.........

Romantic.......................... Child friendly................... Insider writers do Vegetarian friendly.......... not accept any Delivery............................ form of payment in Breakfast menu .............. return for favorable Free wifi....................... reviews BOW 2011 Winner............. $$$ over zł. 55

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $

Pasja Smaku ul. Żytnia 64, tel 22 632 1072. Open 13:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 13:00-last guest, closed Mon. PHOTOGRAPHS: THIS PAGE BY BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF ENOTEKA

n a lazy Sunday afternoon, I begin my new weekly tradition with my wife: we start out for the day looking for treasures from the all-knowing dealers of antiquities in Koło, then to the inexperienced peddlers of things-found-in-the-garbage at Olimpia. Having worked up an appetite, we walk up Górczewska a few blocks and then left to Pasja Smaku. With its relaxed, soothing feel, it’s the perfect spot to take stock and reflect on the day: e.g., the drunk guy sleeping in a baby carriage, or the painful sight of Nazi memorabilia. We pick a table, heaping our stuff on it, approach the counter and check out the big chalkboard list of dishes prepared for the day – when something runs out it gets a big X through it. With the decor minimal and furnished a little like an IKEA showroom, you do get the feeling like you’re dining at… IKEA. But the pleasure here is not in cheap, little meatballs, but thoughtfully prepared Polish food. A long-term family business, Pasja Smaku originated first as a deli, then as a butchery of such high esteem the President awarded the proprietor with honorary citizenship. Now though, it’s a restaurant, and an excellent one at that. “The herring is bigger than a carp,” exclaimed my wife, “and the nóżki as delicate as a torte.” I’m usually weary of wobbly nóżki and their gelatin taste, but this time it was delicious. All of a sudden, I was a believer. With the conversation veering to the week ahead, the mains arrived. For the wife, it was leczo z parówkami (homemade sausages with Hungarian spices), which according to a later Google Translate had been ‘treated with wieners’... Myself, I went for comfort food: the kotlet schabowy. Here the kotlet is always on point – substantial in size, it usually comes with braised cabbage and potato mash. This time though, it was potato dumplings, with the tastes combining so well I end up balancing the three core ingredients onto each forkful. (KD)

Home Africa Bar (Wola) ul. Górczewska 67. Open 14:00-last guest. Authenticity doesn’t only stem from the Cameroonian owner. Home Africa Bar is like an African film set in terms of interior, and food-wise, it offers traditional yams and plaintains, as well as ‘I-dare-you’ items like goat’s head. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord. Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use. And good luck with the gizzard. $$

AMERICAN & TEX-MEX Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally

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RESTAURANTS catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$

Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www.dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. Warsaw’s newest Tex Mex outing has been earning perfect 10s from the Insider’s who’ve visited – we’ll be dropping by ourselves for the June issue. Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, the two floor HRC boasts Warsaw’s best cheeseburger and a cool staff of skater boys and rock girls. Points of interest include rock’n’roll swag from Hendrix and Madonna, as well as regular live music. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the

rousing rock bands. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are hit-and-miss, but the burgers always on-point inside this timeless tribute to the American way. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. An Insider favourite, principally thanks to brick-thick burritos that are all the better when layered with molten lava-like salsa. The barometer hits fever pitch on weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling ex-pats and lubricated students. $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120. Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually

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not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$

China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www. chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Allegedly the first Jiangsu cuisine restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes at the China Garden are indeed unique. On show here is everything from bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts, goose jaws and stewed bull’s penis with radish – I dare you. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Galeria Bali & Buddha Bar (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 828 6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia. Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$ Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza),

tel. 22 658 0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Good food at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$ Little Thai Gallery (D3) Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. 22 827 4410, www.littlethaigallery.pl . Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. High gloss violet interiors and cute elephant candle holders lend this place no shortage of style. The food can be a hit and miss affair, though the curry dishes are usually every bit as good as they sound. So too the green tea ice cream. $$

Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501. Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location.

Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500. Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-

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RESTAURANTS 15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-16:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Sunday Brunch” Winner Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ Sayam (Konstancin) ul. Sienkiewicza 5, tel. 22 756 3343, www.sayam.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. A tropical treasure in the heart of Konstancin – Sayam serves up some satisfying pan-Asian cuisine in thoroughly fresh, modern interiors. The summer garden is the perfect place to while away the weekends for adults and kids alike. Definitely try the sticky ribs and spring rolls. Also offers cooking classes. $$ Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 22 635 3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy

haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. Tobaya (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. 22 520 2222, www.tobaya.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Inside it’s like a trip to the Far East. ToBaYa stands for To – for Tokyo because you’ll find great sushi and claypots here (same proprietor as So-An sushi on Koszykowa St.), Ba – for Bangkok and the flavorful dishes of Thailand, and Ya – for Yakarta, with rare Indonesian culinary treats. Top choice for two: Pla Prik-Waan a.k.a royal gilthead baked in hot-and-sour sauce. Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious.

BALKAN & RUSSIAN

Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The summer’s creeping back, and with it one of the best gardens in the biz – if that’s full though, enjoy numerous dishes from Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of the hunter’s hut style. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more. Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” The no-frills interiors buzz with vodka tinged high jinks. $ Restauracja Bałkany ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 600 031 847. Open

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10:00-22:00. Chef Borys used to do the cooking at the intricate Tawerna Tabak, and while this place looks like a step down the cooking hasn’t suffered: order the kofta. Décor is stark, dark and simple, but the welcome – like the cooking – is enthusiastic. $ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $ Varna (D6) ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in town, but none that look this good; decorated with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balk-fest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the full list of hearty, homey classics. The musaka is peerless. $

BRITISH Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

FRENCH Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107,

www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www. larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Warsaw’s had a long and lingering liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains underrepresented. This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. The lamb shank is a winner, and the mussels do more than enough to distract from the construction catastrophe clunking outside. Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek) ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw.

This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN Baliani Kebabs ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144. Open 11:00-24:00. The kebab experience is reinvented by the boys from Baliani, with top notch results courtesy of daily deliveries of fresh meat. It’s certainly a whole lot more than the usual Warsaw hole-in-the-wall experience. Bar Turecki “Efes”(H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$

Fenicja (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 510 759 795, www. fenicja.pl. Open 10:00-24:00 (kebab window 24hrs). Bathed in a cheap green glow you just don’t expect a restaurant of this caliber in such a low-budget setting. But it’s excellent, with an encyclopedic choice of eastern dishes enjoyed by hunched Lebanese natives whispering over plates of hummus. The locals though, seem to prefer the 24hr kebab window, home of the best post-pub soakage imaginable. $ Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www. lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little

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RESTAURANTS plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$ Lokanta (C4) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 22 585 1004, www.lokanta.home.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00last guest. The restaurant has built up its reputation of serving good-quality, traditional Turkish cuisine. The döner kebab will leave you full and happy and is served fast enough at lunchtime to keep up with your schedule. Now throws Orient-inspired dance parties every weekend for Bangla fans. $$ Maho (Ochota) Al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www.maho.com.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Found in that office/residential grey zone of Ochota, Maho looks more like a drive-thru burger joint from the outside. So it’s surprising to find some of the best skewered meats in Warsaw in this Turkish locale. Basic interiors but great food and well-stocked deli. $ Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open

12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Restauracja Flios (Ursynów) ul. Dereniowa 6, tel. 22 648 4589, www.restauracjaflios.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. The décor is OTT, but there’s little to complain about when it comes to the food. Excellent appetizers – zesty pikilia, stuffed grape leaves, meat cutlets and some of the best fried eggplant around. $$$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese

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and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$ Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the

mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus. With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. $$

INDIAN Annapurna (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 409 4400. Open 11:3022:00. Bland, sterile interiors have ceded way for typical curryhouse furnishings, lending a real authenticity to one of Warsaw’s best curries. The vindaloo hits a red-hot emergency level that’s unrivaled in town, and the offer extends to Thai, Nepalese and a sprinkling of Chinese. $$ Arti (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123, tel. 22 626 9002, www.restauracjaarti.pl. Open daily 11:0022:30. An exhaustive selection of largely excellent Indian dishes inside a low-cost interior in the center of town. Better surroundings but the same quality are found in their ul. Francuska operation across the water. $ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. When the service isn’t clanking around, dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $ Ganesh Express (A4) ul. Grzybowska 61, www.ganeshexpress. pl. Open 10:30-22:30. While their flagship on Wilcza ranks as one of Warsaw’s best curries, find the polar opposite within a hop of the Hilton. Spooned out of canteen-style

BROUGHT TO YOU BY SAN LORENZO

The Taste of Italy

Emiliano Castagna is an Italian who has lived and worked in Warsaw since 1995. This issue the Insider catches up to him to have a natter about food – and his favorite place for it. BY IZABELA DEPCZYK

Tell us about being an Italian in Warsaw circa 1995... It was a completely different place to what it is right now; everything about the daily life of a Pole was alien to what my life was like back in Italy. But what I missed most about home was the food. Back then it was impossible to get original Italian products like Mascarpone, pasta, Parma ham etc.. Fortunately, I discovered San Lorenzo and it quickly became a second home to me. How does San Lorenzo remind you of Italy? It’s a two-in-one kind of place. It has a bar area and a dining area. The bar is the perfect place to eat great pasta while watching football with fellow noisy Italians – it’s just like back home! I also think the quality of the food itself is an important factor. Luca, the restaurant’s chef, is Italian, so he makes wonderful pasta “al dente” using all the finest Italian products. For the dining part of San Lorenzo, I would describe it as ideal for both business and romance. The belle-époque décor, mixed with some modern touches, makes the interior so unique. There’s also always a wide range of fresh fish delivered to the restaurant three times per week. And these aren’t farm grown, either. What’s your favorite dish at San Lorenzo? Tuna fillet! It tastes heavenly when grilled with sesame seeds and served on an avocado puree... So what wine goes with that? Ooh, the restaurant has such a wide range of Italian wines, that it’s impossible to recommend just one. It’s very personal, but I am certain that everyone will find the wine that suits both them and the dish. Give us three secrets to San Lorenzo’s success... Traditional Italian recipes, the quality of the products, and the sheer ambiance inside the restaurant. What does a restaurant need to be considered a real Italian restaurant? Just because a place sells pizza does not make it an Italian restaurant! The food needs to reflect that Italian passion – the chef should be Italian, or at least should be someone who has lived and cooked in Italy for some years. Importantly, the products used for cooking must be genuine Italian products. San Lorenzo has that, which is why it’s a real Italian restaurant! www.warsawinsider.pl

RESTAURANTS containers the food here is catastrophic, so the fact the servings are so small is actually a blessing in disguise. Ganesh Express? More like Total Ga- -sh Express. $ India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www. indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Under new management, Warsaw’s most upmarket Indian restaurant is the corporate choice for when suits want it hot. Never short of excellent, the prawn curries are something else. Katmandu (C5) ul. Wspólna 50/52, tel. 22 622 0026. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:0023:00. Nepalese, Thai and Indian dishes inside a no-effort, bare bones interior. But the curries are good, and occasionally excellent; set fire to your tonsils with a chicken madras. $

Concept 13 ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, www.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

hhh! Welcome to the secret restaurant in the secret mall in Centrum. Perched on the fifth floor at the top of the escalator to heaven (cake-tiered fashion running alongside the eastern windows) in the new Vitkac luxury department store, the Likus family has rolled out its eighth Polish eatery with nary a public peep. No signage, no neon, but already gaining a faithful following. You would be forgiven for believing this to be yet another office building; we certainly did. Perhaps the advertisements are soon to come, as Concept 13 is yet to be formally opened, but for now the building is quiet as a church, and undeservedly so. The Likus family made their reputation in hotels and restaurants starting in Kraków with the splendid renovations of the Pod Rożą, Copernicus and Stary hotels. Besides stunning and meticulous décor, their culinary expertise has garnered Michelin recommendations. Working as a national team, they seem to be establishing their niche in luxury eating as well as apparel and hotels. This restaurant may have a McDonald’s-ish fetish associated with its name (business meeting alert: Concept is the name of a sister Likus restaurant only a kilometer away near the University of Warsaw), but not with its food. Prepared by Chef Krzysztof Żurek, recently of the Stary, each course was diminutive, distinctive and delicious. The menu is cleverly direct. Just content without context as in Salad; Squid; zł. 29. But where the descriptive words may be minimal, the tastes certainly are not. The Luncheonettes were delighted to discover a five course set lunch menu for zł. 50. The handful-sized salad was a complex textural mix of greens, the soup du jour was topped with fresh leek strands resembling fettuccine, and the risotto was marvelously al dente. When the main course was reached, a ribbon of fine beef, seared on one side only, we still had room to appreciate the presentation and the forethought which allows the patron to get through this midday eating marathon, enjoy it top to bottom, without feeling like bursting at the seams. A chocolate meringue biscuit came with our coffees accompanied by vanilla cream “butter,” a rather thick pudding. A butter knife was our only utensil. I hope no one was watching, but I can attest that it was all knife-licking fantastic – and we did.

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Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 While it caters to a party crowd in the evening, this place is run by Nepalese chef Prakash and features a menu of authentic treats throughout the day and evening. Also offers delivery through its India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $

Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. A bank of candles and a statue of Ganesh greets diners at Saffron, a two-floor eatery with windows looking onto

PHOTOGRAPH BY COURTESY OF CONCEPT 13

Food, libation, atmosphere and joviality. We all deserve and need to nourish the body as well as the soul – and The Luncheonettes are here to help you do just that.

Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$

pl. Konstytucji. There’s no alcohol list, and the number of meat dishes is more limited than most – even so, the murgh mekhani is among the best we’ve tried, and the lunch deals are a magnet. Thai food as well.

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:0023:00. Affecting a chichi style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles and autumn leaves. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that embraces the credos that cooking should be theater. The menu comes chalked up on a board, and while the alio olio was a little overcooked, the big guns were out for the steak – fabulous. Definitely one to watch. $$ Bagno Food & Wine ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. With its huge windows and stark style you can’t help but think Bagno would work best in summer; all it takes is a grey Warsaw day to cloak this place in gloom. Which is a shame, as the food (and wine) really work here. Our steak was nicely done, with a flavorful mushroom sauce and thick baked potatoes on the side. $$ Bio 33 ul. Grzybowska 61, tel. 22 409 9605, www.bio33.pl. A space age looking restaurant in the Platinum Towers complex next to the Hilton. Making use of organic products, the

premise is simple: three salads, three soups, three fish dishes, three meat etc. The results are marvelous, but the prices are daft. Zł. 26 for tomato soup!? $$ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www. bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy

Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Brasserie@ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel), tel. 22 321 8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. They’re closing in on their first birthday, but this is still the restaurant everyone is talking about. Served on wood boards, the steak are beyond reproach, served up by staff in butchers aprons. Drawing celebs and execs, the food is beyond reproach, as proved by their predictable triumph at Gazeta Wyborcza’s restaurant awards. Bookings are essential. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$

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RESTAURANTS Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 826 0660, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Elegant and ornate, but the menu is a tool of deception - the final results are nowhere near as tasty as they sound. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$ Delikatesy Esencja (F7) ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:00-2:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and overhead pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. $$ Etno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 564 5780,

www.etnoerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking rather sterile and anonymous, it’s no surprise to find Etno’s scattering of customers consisting of the grey-looking number crunchers from the offices upstairs. While it’s not exactly light on the wallet, the lunch deals make it more than worthwhile – a selected starter and main for 20-something zlots. $$ Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00. A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small ice skating rink in the park that it views. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8631. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 7:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. A stylish restaurant that’s best recognized for its seriously good brunches. See for yourself each Sunday, when zł. 165 gets you unlimited access to some top-range F&B. Turn up on Thursday night for a similar offer that’s focused on fish. $$$ Green Peas (D4) ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.With Ye Goode Foode nuked into touch, it’s been left to Green Peas to wave the eco-flag. Featuring vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals,

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it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here – probably the healthiest in the city. Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ H3 Gourmet Burger (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska, www.h3.com. Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. Okay, so it’s in a food court, but H3 are a million times superior to the immediate neighbors. Part of a Portuguese chain, bunless burgers come in a variety of choices: including one with an egg on it (eek!). Go for the mushroom one instead. $ Kaprys (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2232, www.restauracjakaprys.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Like their service, Kaprys have had a slow start. We had a five minute wait for the menu, in spite of being the only customers. The design looks formal and unimaginative, and the menu includes a bit of everything – it’s hard to define the cuisine. Our beef carpaccio was tasty, but sea bass – served with head, eyes et al. – was off-putting, and the potato wedges almost certainly from a bag.

Kultura (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel. 784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00. An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Incorporating ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences,’ chef Pawel Oszczyk has created one of the top dining rooms in Warsaw, a comfortable space that’s both intimate and plush without ever appearing over-indulgent. The the tuna tartar is a magnificent starter, and the venison faultless. Enhancing the chef’s talents is Andrzej Strzelczyk, one of Poland’s top ranked sommeliers. $$$ Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and handpainted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed,

with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1823. Open daily: 6:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 18:00-23:00. Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavorful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from one of Warsaw’s top hotels – excellent. $$$ Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. $$ Meza Restaurant (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Hotel). Open daily 6:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka. The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th

Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destinaBEST WAWA 2011 “Kid tion to follow. $$ Friendly” Winner Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc). Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$ Papu (D9) Al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, www.restauracjapapu.pl. Open daily 10:00last guest. The elegant décor, complimented by fantastic staff, all combine to make this a relaxing and romantic experience. $$$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$

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RESTAURANTS Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak. The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6)

Street Food Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with pride of place going to fantastic Belgian-style fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-4:00. A game changer for the late night eating community in Warsaw – i.e. those of us who rush to the pub on Friday without eating. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers (inc. Philly cheese steak!), and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS.

Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “First Date” Winner Quick Steak (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 530 969 999, www.quicksteak.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:0024:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. So it’s not Butchery & Wine, but this place really isn’t too bad. Even so, you’ve got to question the wisdom of anyone who opens a burger and steak joint next to Hard Rock. Going in the ring with the undisputed champion of Americana is pretty audacious, not to say foolish. There’s only one winner there, and it’s not these bods. R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 7:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$ Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl. Open Sun-Thur 12:0024:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. Fusion food, top cocktails and the restobar concept: it all started here, or at least it did where Warsaw is concerned. Years on and Sense is still a market leader, with a menu that’s perfect bait for the hot lookers who come here – try the flame-grilled lamb chops. $$ Solec (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of

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their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 22 826 3008, www.stantonio.pl. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the place gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$ Studio Buffo (E5) ul. M. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 22 339 0775, www.studiobuffo.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:3023:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-23:00. Famous for its shows, Studio Buffo should not be forgotten for its food. It’s a popular place with arty types, and the menu offers tasty mains. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$

Theatro Fusion Restaurant ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open 12:00-23:00. The menu is a balance of international influences, and includes a selection of ‘Thai pasta’ and a lovely creation called Chicken Barbara. Finally open after what seems like a year of work, the elaborate interiors reflect the Foksal location. $$$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Literally translated as ‘with the cooks’, you find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, with food served straight from the pots. Some are calling this the best meal in Warsaw, and it’s certainly up there…. even if the cocktails BEST WAWA 2011 “Restaurant aren’t. $$ Design” Winner Valadier (C9)

ul. Łowicka 16, tel. 22 224 5454, www.valadier.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Set in an elegant mansion this aristocratic choice comes fronted by Paweł Żółtanski, and he’s mixed French, Italian and Polish styles to come up with an exclusive menu that reads like a royal banquet: guinea fowl, pigeon and quail to name just some examples. $$$ Villa Czersk (Czersk) ul. Warszawska 23, tel. 22 736 2188, www.villaczersk.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Found 30 clicks south of Warsaw, VC gets a spoonful of extra points for setting; a mock Tuscan villa in walking distance from the ruined castle in Czersk. Ideal following a visit to the aforementioned, this restaurant has a formal air and an important sounding internationa/Mediterranean menu that specializes in fish – make sure to try the mussels, they are fantastic. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri

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12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fullybooked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$ Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs. Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$ You and Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, www.youandmebar.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:3024:00; Fri 8:30-2:00, Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Serving up a pretty attractive selection of food. The interiors of this café/bar look very modern, and the bold crimson decor makes it a hot spot for a date. $$

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Żużu (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 43, entrance from ul. Różana, tel. 22 646 4585, www.bistro-zuzu. pl. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-21:00. Żużu is hidden away in Mokotów, but well worth tracking down. The Panga/Sole Fillet served with white and wild rice risotto, saffron sauce and Tian vegetables is an excellent main dish. $

ITALIAN Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed. A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$ Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

TEL. 22 652 1616 WWW.SANLORENZO.PL www.warsawinsider.pl

RESTAURANTS Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www. delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talkedabout venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$ Doppio (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 22 622 1330. www.doppio-senso.pl. Open Tues-Sun 13:00-last guest. Some might call the red and white interiors a little lame – they certainly do little to suggest the greatness in store. While there’s a good scattering of pasta and mains, the real deal is the pizza; top in the town’s pecking order claim their expanding band of fans. $$ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828 2605, www.gar.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria. The pizza pies are excellent with thin-crust and hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $$ La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 331 6798, www.lacantina.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. Mediterranean dishes with pastas, seafood and meat dishes and a large variety of pizza from a wood-fired oven. $

La Tomatina ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; FriSat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in a modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30. Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$ Oregano (Białołęka Dworska) ul. Bohaterów 14, tel. 22 425 5964, www.oregano-restauracja.pl. Open Mon-Thurs & Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Just about 25 minutes drive from the center, this lovely villa houses a cozy Italian restaurant with a menu that’s traditional but also very creative, put together by award-winning chef Anna Martynowska. Highly recommended for a weekend brunch/dinner jaunt. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00. The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pizzeria na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498 8877, www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A back street haunt that earns its stripes for excellent pizza – but better ring your order, with staff this sour it pays to keep contact minimal. $ Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 622 6762,

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www.poezja.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink with shrimp as a main. $$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, www.puntaprima.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. A formal looking space with wood walls and important chests and cabinets. Start with a glass of prosecco before being blown over by mains like guinea fowl with truffle puree and caramelized beetroot – even better than it sounds. $$ Ristorante Il Sole (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 22 653 6484, www.ilsole.com.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. Cut-price lunch deals draw in suited crowds from the offices upstairs, while modern, cosmopolitan interiors further stroke the corporate feel. The food won’t win prizes – neither will the servers – but it’s not a bad haunt if you’re working locally. $$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Roma Bukieteria (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 621 0311, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. $$ Rusticoni Restaurant (C4)

Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni. pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Sapori d’Italia (Ursynów) ul. Dembego 10 lok. U5, tel. 888 231 030, www.sapori-ditalia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00. Recommended dishes include the tuna salad, a vibrant mix of tuna fish, salad, green olives and tomatoes enlivened by a creamy dill sauce and the deliciously tender Dourade fish. The food is well-worth the trip out to this slightly remote restaurant. $$ Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Serving classic Italian favorites including pizza, pasta and risotto, this restaurant has something for everyone. The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended. Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356 1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00. What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel),

tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00.

21:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. Fresh ingredients and wide selection of traditional items and modern creations from the classic and fusion menus make this new sushi spot in Wilanów worth checking out. $$

Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$

Hana Sushi Jasna Centre (D3) Jasna Centre, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. 22 826 8585, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. This new location of Hana Sushi combines sleek Japanese minimalism with an air of decadence, and serves food as fresh and attractive as the presentation. $$

Włoska Robota (Ochota) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0023:00. Squirreled away in Park Szczęśliwicki in Ochota, the forte of the establishment is the home-made pasta. The menu is otherwise a cookie-cutter range of pizza with the usual range of toppings. If you’re after baked dough the “panuozzo” sandwiches are real winners - just be prepared to wait a while. $

JAPANESE & SUSHI Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. The glory years are over, especially if a visit to the Złote Tarasy outpost is anything to go by. We like our duck to be crispy, but this could have been blowtorched – we didn’t need chopsticks, we needed a chisel. The W.C could benefit from a lick of paint and all. $$ Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$ Besuto (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. After years trading in one of the grubby pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto have upped chopsticks and moved onto Nowy Świat itself. The sushi is as good as ever, only now so are the views. You’d have expected the prices to climb north to reflect the change in address: they haven’t. $$ Gugo Sushi (Wilanów) ul. Nałęczowska 60, tel. 22 394 5480, www.gugosushi.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-

Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955. Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$ Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel. 607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$ Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery (D2) ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. 22 892 0901, www.kiku.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A rather well-designed place with lots of Japanese-inspired furnishings. This restaurant, run by a Korean staff, offers far more than good sushi: tasty glassy noodles and udon soups too. $ Maguro (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 22 621 7460, www. magurosushi.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. The day’s sushi selection sails past on boats in this Wilcza

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Cooking with Class

Whether you’re a novice or a pro, expand your culinary horizons with the best cooking class around. BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

f ever you’re looking for me, I can guarantee one thing – don’t look in the kitchen. You see, just because I write about food, that doesn’t mean I can actually make it; I can’t even cook fish fingers without the fire brigade being called out. So, when I found myself invited on a cookery course at the Hyatt Regency it was with a sense of trepidation that I accepted the offer. But just because my own kitchen gives me the jitters, that doesn’t mean others do – least not those of a five star restaurant. Just being in a professional kitchen is a vicarious thrill, one not unlike being in the captain’s cabin or backstage at the theater. And, adding to that sense of theatrics, is the executive chef himself: Volker Muehrer, a larger than life character with a passion for his work. That I found myself rubbing shoulders with an author, a food critic and evergreen actress Małgorzata Potocka only added to the buzz – before long, I was well into the spirit, wielding knives while shouting for shallots. Fun aside, cooking with pros is clearly an educational experience as well. No matter how refined your culinary

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experience is, you will pick up tips that stay with you for life – which salt to use or how the experts hold a knife – fundamental lessons that can’t be underestimated. With classes pitched at all levels of talent, it’s both positive and enlightening, with the afternoon culminating with the feast that’s been cooked. As afternoon’s go, it’s a pretty priceless experience. Classes with Chef Volker are scheduled at the Hyatt on 18 May (homemade pasta and pesto) and 15 June (antipasti), though tailor-made packages for small groups and company events are available at other times. Prices average out at a bargain zł. 350 per head depending on what’s on the menu. For further information and bookings call 22 558 1021, or email: ewelina.pienkowska@ hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency Warsaw ul. Belwederska 23, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com

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TRADITIONAL BEEF TARTAR Serves Four 400g 4 4 2 1 Tsp. 4 1 Tsp. 2 Tsp. 1 20g 1

beef tenderloin egg yolks cornichons shallots capers anchovy fillets ketchup Dijon mustard dash bell pepper powder chopped parsley sea salt black pepper dash of brandy

• Clean the beef tenderloin and remove the silver skin and fat. Weigh out 400g of meat and cut it into tiny cubes with a jolly sharp knife. Place the meat into a bowl, season it with salt and pepper, bell pepper powder and put it into the fridge. Then cut the cornichons and the shallots – also into small little cubes – and then chop the parsley and capers. Following this, remove the meat and mix it well with the other condiments. • Place a round metal ring in the middle of the plate and then scoop the tartar into it with a spoon. Remove the ring and presto – beef tartar!

VEAL CHEEK WITH PARSLEY ROOTS, RED WINE SHALLOTS & GREMULATA SALAD

50g carrots 50g celery 50g onion 1 clove garlic 20g tomato concentrate 500ml brown veal stock 200ml red wine pepper corns bay leaf rosemary thyme pimento (all spice) salt and pepper • Clean the veal cheeks and the vegetables, then cut the veg into cubes. Season the veal cheeks with salt and pepper, then fry them in a pot. Remove the the veal cheeks and add the veggie cubes to the pot. Roast them till golden brown, and then add the tomato concentrate. Deglaze with red wine and fill it up with brown veal stock. Add the spices, then braise the veal at 150 degrees in the oven for 2½-3 hours. After braising, remove the veal cheeks, pour the sauce through a strainer and reduce to the preferred consistency. FOR PARSLEY ROOTS 400g parsley roots 150ml cream 150ml milk 25g butter sea salt nut meg • Peel the parsley roots, cut them into slices and cook with milk and cream until soft. Tip them through a strainer and blend them together with the butter to puree. Season with salt and nutmeg.

Serves Four FOR VEAL CHEEKS 4 veal cheeks

RED WINE SHALLOTS 200g small shallots 20g butter

00ml white wine 3 1 Tsp. sugar 20ml white balsamic bay leafs thyme sea salt • Peel the shallots, sweat them in butter, fill with white wine, add the spices and leave them to boil softly. GREMULATA SALAD 50g parsley 25g chervil 1 lemon 1 garlic clove olive oil • Twitch the herbs, slice the garlic and fry in oil at a temperature of 160 degrees. Marinate the herbs with lemon juice, lemon skin, garlic chips and olive oil. • Place the parsley puree in the center of the plate and arrange the veal cheek on top. Then, top it off with the sauce and garnish with Gremulata salad. Enjoy.

“ No matter how refined your culinary experience is, you will pick up tips that stay with you for life” www.warsawinsider.pl

RESTAURANTS stalwart, and from what we’ve seen, then yes, it should float your boat as well. $$ Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. 22 828 0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$ The Place (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 4517, www.theplacesushi.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. Great sushi at (surprisingly) great prices and other Japanese specialties in a slick setting. Plus delicious vegetarian options too. $ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Some call it the best sushi in the city, and they may have a point. Practice nimble chopstick tricks alongside other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00. The Sushi 77 chain is surprisingly consistent with the quality of its dishes. The Żelazna location is a favourite, with simple decor, friendly service and great sushi. Check out the Ursynów location for noodle dishes too. $$ Sushi Teatr (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 4787, www.sushiteatr.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344,

www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Tsubame (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 635 8667, www.tsubame. pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A great place for confidential conversation; frequently empty, the sushi is actually fine, just nowhere near the standard set in their former home on Foksal. $$ Yoko Sushi (Praga) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, (Promenada Mall, 3rd Floor), tel. 22 611 3535, www.yokosushi.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. With a hip-Japan vibe and a cool factor that if off-the-meter, this is a perfect place for metrosexuals and hip urban couples. $$

LATIN Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. A lasting legend and an ex-pat darling – not least with the brunch bunch on a sweaty, summer Sunday. Appealing to all ages, this place is as good as ever with fun tacos for sprogs and a tank of tequila for the adults. The fajitas are DIY food at its best, and taste all the better with a jug of margarita. $$ Carmona (B2) ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 1919, www.carmona.pl. Open 8:00-23:00. Set in an increasingly happening section of new money Mokotów, find the daily tapas chalked up on a blackboard inside a modern interior featuring midnight colors and top-to-bottom windows. Worth the look if you’re next door. $ Cuatro Caminos ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 493 8748, www.cuatro-caminos.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Winning blanket approval for what’s sometimes regarded as the best Spanish choice in Warsaw, Cuatro Caminos feature a scattering of selected mains and some excellent tapas in a prime location for an after-work meet. $$

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El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistentlyinconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ El Toro Steakhouse ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there. There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł. 157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00. Both the location and the design have been nailed, and while the salsa lacks teeth, the food is slowly approaching the level set by the more established haunts in the Latin class. Good burgers, as well. $$

Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www.portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Tapa y Toro (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Trasy Shopping Mall, level -1). Open 10:00- last guest. Tapas fans rejoice! With the full range of tastes Tapa y Toro is a great place to peck away on authentic Spanish nibbles, even more so if you bag a seat outside; eye candy heaven. The only downside seems to be the toilet, a sickly, stinky affair shared with the rest of the mall. $$ Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri

11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican. pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30 The Amber Room is situated in a spectacular residence in the Pałac Sobańskich, with the addition of new chef Robert Skubisz raising their stock still further. The restaurant bagged all the top awards in the 2010 Wine & Food Noble Night, and continues to be something of an address to impress. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. Nigel Slater recently called Atelier, “the most extraordinary meal of the trip,” and The Guardian’s gastro guru has hit the nail on the head. Find a menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with each course interspersed with occasionally bizarre molecular interludes – you bet we didn’t expect to be served a fizzy aloe leaf. This is Poland’s finest restaurant, and a real contender for the nation’s first Michelin star. Bookings essential. $$$ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an

atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold BEST WAWA and black interiors. $$$ 2011 “Business Venue” Winner Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24hr. An eat-while-you-stand venue serving up eight złoty bites specifically designed to act as emergency stomach lining for a pre/postparty crowd of vodka sinking glamour cats. $ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Cuda Wianki ul. Przekorna 15 (Powsin), tel. 22 498 1508. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:0022:00. Standing at the foot of Kabaty Forest, the interiors here are simply adorable, and heavily influenced by folk art. Co-owned by a tennis pro and his parents, this family have sought to develop their own menu, based on standard Polish fare, but with twists and turns they have gathered through prior experience. The results are excellent. $ Dekanta (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 22 622 4594. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat 13:00-last guest. A golden-oldies-themed eatery with a good grill and serious cocktails. Be sure to try their most popular dishes: duck and golonka. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of

those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even. There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 22 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Bathed in banners and propaganda the Red Hog is your one-stop shop for some socialist socializing. Dine on ‘Brezhnev dumplings’ and ‘capitalist soup’ while Cold War bigwigs gaze from the paintings above. $$ Jadalnia Popularna (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 22 828 4454. Open Mon-Fri

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl. Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl. Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

11:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-17:00. Like a milk bar, only it isn’t. So the food comes out of canteen containers, but it doesn’t stink and it’s served with a smile. Find low-cost Polish eats served around a fun, retro theme to a crowd who wouldn’t be seen dead in the scummy bar mleczny of old. $ Literacka (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89, tel. 22 635 8995. Open 11:00-24:00. The food is decent and prices are very reasonable, but the service leaves something to be desired. With a great view of the Old Town, the location is choice. $ Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21. Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed. The menu, designed by TV chef Robert Sowa, is exactly what you’d have found in the old days, and best enjoyed with a cold nip of voddie. MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00. Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0024:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva which sources only the finest Polish produce. Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare BEST bricks and violet flourishes. $$$ WAWA 2011 “Address to Impress” Winner Nowa La Boheme (D2) pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0681, www.laboheme.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic

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interiors are still decidedly continental. Well-suited for business lunches. $$ Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828 0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland. Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. An extensive repertoire of traditional Polish foods that you know, from Jewish-style carp to duck with apples. The place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The service is mixed, and occasionally hostile, but prices are low. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. Polka (D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka. pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors.

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225,

www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.” Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Rozpusta Restauracja Polska (B3) ul. Elektoralna 23, tel. 22 499 5178, www.restauracjarozpusta.pl. Open 12:0023:00. Only seven mains to choose from, but the chef appears a master of them all. Utilizing homemade pates and sauces, the menu involves geese, lamb and a jolly good salmon. They’ve not exactly done anything new, but what they have done, they’ve done it well. $$

Słony ul. Piękna 11, tel. 22 629 0364. Open Mon-Wed 8:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-23:00. The design is kitsch but classy, with mirrored touches and striped wallpaper set against upside down lamps and nudes of Josephine Baker. Polish canapés costing zł. 8 are stored behind glass counters here, and make for great bargain snacking – the eggplant is delicious. And yes, it’s got Magda Gessler’s name stamped on it. Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$ Stary Dom (E12) ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:0023:00. This “old house” serves good old traditional Polish food. The atmospheric main hall features high ceilings and eye-catching wooden beams; mains include rabbit, duck

(the house special) and pork cutlets, while the desserts are divine. What sets this place apart from other Polish restaurants are the prices. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, portioned out in size XXXL at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and roast pork knuckles. $$ Villa Nuova (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 22 885 1502, www.villanuova.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$ Winiarnia i Gospoda nad Jeziorem (Józefów) ul. Nadwiślańska 96B, tel. 667 770 790, www.nadjeziorem.pl. Open Tues-Fri 14:0021:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. One of our favorite hidden gems for a quaint afternoon or evening away from the city. Just about twenty minutes outside of the center, this lodge-style restaurant specializes in fine wines from Bordeaux and traditional Polish food. $$ Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Wańkowicza 1, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Six Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx.. fifty type delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids.

Zwyczjana ul. Wspólna 54, tel. 507 652 596, www. zwyczjana.pl. Open 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:0020:00. A modern Polish eatery with a blond wood aesthetic accented with dabs of art and bowls of fruit. The food is cheap, cheerful Polish fare, with daily specials posted on their website. It fills the gap if nothing else.

SEAFOOD Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS African Shop ul. Wilcza 51, tel. 507 247 292, www.afroeuro. eu. Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection. Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www. biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00.Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Cash only, with a second branch in Wilanów (Konstancin, Old Paper Mill, ul. Wojska Polskiego 3, open Sat 10:00-15:00). British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as

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RESTAURANTS well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region. Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:0020:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more. La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France. Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb. Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738,

Top Shop

www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available. Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www. maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves. BEST WAWA 2011 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner MeiAsia ul. Kilińskiego 3, tel. 22 402 1307, www.meiasia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. A top Asian spot just off the fringes of Old Town. Featured products from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand and Singapore. Sauces, noodles, snacks and oils, as well as a small stand with fresh fish and seafood. Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices. Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, Sicilian marzipan, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France. Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers (whose happy to accept special orders), and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables.

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804, www.britishshop.pl

t couldn’t be more British if you placed it on the corner and covered it in bunting. Every bit as British as the Downing Street cat, this new venture is, to all intents and purposes, a scaled down version of what used to be Fish & Chips on Koszykowa (only, alas, without either the fish or the chips). Run by the same enthusiastic team of Anglophiles, its diminutive size is something of a red herring – in the space of practically 10 sq/m, they’ve managed to fit in more stuff you want than one of those out-of-town Tesco’s. On the drinks side find an impressive array of British beverages (alcoholic and non-alcoholic), that include artisan ciders and hard-to-find ales. The food front is even better, with British style bangers, bacon, confectionary and sauces. And if you’re too lazy for the cooking part, then check their ready meals, provided by the excellent Look What We Found brand. And what if you can’t find what you’re looking for? In that event, check their web and use their ‘bring for me’ service. With a van heading out to Dover practically once a week, there isn’t much these chaps can’t bring back.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Reviews: Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska 55 / Plus:

* 3 updates

CAFES & WINE BARS CAFES 55 / WINE BARS 58

Insider’s Pick

CAFÉS 5.29 (D4) ul. Krucza 51 (corner of Widok). Open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Stuffed in an area of 5.29 sq/m, here’s a candidate for Poland’s smallest café. Maybe the world’s. But there’s not just great espresso to knock back while standing, but a great oven knocking out foccacias, bagels and fresh French pastries. Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork. The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high.

* Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 22 270 2179, www.klubokawiarnia.net. Open 9:00-last guest.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KAROLINA KALINOWSKA

o, this isn’t another addition to the recent trend of turning prisons into social venues, even though the bars on the windows may suggest so. On the contrary, for Poles these bars, a relic from Warsaw’s commie days, bring on a wave of nostalgia as does the cafe’s retro neon sign – the space itself used to be a butcher’s not unlike those of the day. The dodgy exterior definitely tests your determination so make sure you have some because the interior is lovely. And a fresh alternative too to the polished cafes of Saska Kępa’s main street, Francuska. Ascetic in design (another shout-out to the style back in the day), you’ll find colorful beverages displayed on white tile surfaces, as well as a menu scribbled on the walls. Such attention to detail, from the colors to a wall of magazines and homemade canapés, make this place a winner. The basement area, the polar opposite of the bright space upstairs, is also not to be missed. It comes alive in the evenings, yet even during the day the deep purple walls and retro armchairs provide for a pleasant atmosphere. While my staple order is always a latte, here made stronger than most in Warsaw, this turned out a mundane choice in light of all the other available drinks. For spring days try the quirky sodas while playing board games on a lazy afternoon. And spring evenings spend with yummy cocktails and honey Ciechans, profiting from Towarzyska’s attribute of being one of the few places in the neighborhood open after 10 p.m. As the name translates literally to “Social”, social it should be. And yes, this club/cafe has been living up to its name. It’s so much more than just another place for coffee or a late oatmeal breakfast: the intention of the founders was to get involved in Warsaw’s cultural scene and social life, so concerts of all genres and vernissages (recently, photographs, still on display) happen on a regular basis. One could even say, it’s the east side’s answer to the west side’s Chłodna 25. (KK)

Aroma ul. Krucza 6, tel. 22 376 5475, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-20:00. An attractive Israeli owned spot with white painted walls and an atmosphere and a busy café atmosphere – hissing coffee contraptions and lively sounds. The sandwiches are nice enough, but we like this place for their other offerings: cinnamon twisters, Belgian waffles and chocolate croissants. Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. Brilliant traditional desserts in a historic location that has a history that spans over a century of fine pastry-making. Also stop by the next-door deli for specialty goods. Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the BEST WAWA choice haunt for the in-team. 2011 “Cafe Culture” Winner

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Cafe Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Filled with bright, primary colors and plenty of armchairs, this two level cafe follows a simple formula. Downstairs, it’s Colombia’s finest (coffee), upstairs it’s cocktails – and very tasty they are. And just to make sure they’ve got all hours covered, there’s food to enjoy either side of your beverages: barramundi, flame-grilled Argie steak etc. Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles. Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115. Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches. Cava (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59, www.cava.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered. Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Dreadlocks and piercings are the favored attire in Chłodna, one of the last bastions of beatnik chic this side of the Wisła. Here it’s all sunken sofas and chipped wood tables inside a soothing environment celebrated for its experimental sounds and anti-establishment vibe. Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and

art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace. Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one. Delikatesy Bracia Gessler (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Great sandwiches, cakes and pastries from the Gessler dynasty. Columned, imperial interiors add a swish look to this Royal Route stalwart. Order at the street side hatch for a take-away lunch. Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00. An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices. Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic. Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries. Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge! La Vanille (D5)

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ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. The coffee is pretty good and all. Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 22 350 7777. Art is a big part here: find rotating exhibits on the walls, and crayons on the tables – find the amusing results on the post-it notes stuck by the door. White and bright, the day’s offer is chalked onto the blackboard. Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired influenced by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards. Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote.blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior. Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award.

Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. Find a painfully in vogue crowd comparing boutique buys over gourmet coffee. MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. Mokotowska 22 ul. Mokotowska 22, tel. 22 622 0689, www.mokotowska-22.pl. Open 7:30-22:00. Ignoring the rather lame name (come on, get creative eh...), 22 features soft, coffeecolored chairs, zappy, innovative art and an undefeatable selection of lattes. It works on every level, and is a great alternative to braying, boasting Charlotte down the road. Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D3) Nowy Świat 63, tel. 22 505 6696, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. All life is here, from environmental radicals to theater bigwigs, and while it helps to look like a political activist, it’s become increasingly popular with the more standard Nowy Świat crowd. Lectures, DJs, exhibitions and screenings mean no night is the same. Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open

Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead. Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching.

Przystanek MDM ul. Waryńskiego 9/1, tel. 509 031 062. Open 7:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00. A retro themed café with its feet firmly planted in the 50s – check out the gaudy PRL armchairs and the giant black and white of pl. Konstytucji. The range of unfiltered local beers makes it that bit more than just a café.

on tasty, filling ciabatta bread to eat in or take out. Also soups, salads, pierogi, fresh juices, and even muesli. The prices are very reasonable for this neck of the woods. Szpilka (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 22 628 9132. Open 24hrs. The days when Szpilka stood on the leaderboard of nightlife are long gone, but that’s not to say it’s not worth dropping in. The food osciallates in quality, but the location alone attracts a healthy stream of cafe hoppers and pub crawlers. Starbucks (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 62 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 829 4021, www.starbucks. pl. Open Mon-Thur 7:30-21:30; Fri-Sat 7:3023:00; Sun 9:00-21:30. It had to happen. The Starbucks invasion is well under way. First it was Nowy Świat, now the rest of Warsaw is under attack.

Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl.Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and Steff Cafe (F6) ul. Jazdów 1, tel. 507 286 136. Open Sun-Thurs pastries. 10:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00. An intelSame Fusy (D1) lectual looking cafe in one of the outbuildings ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 635 9014, by Zamek Ujazdowski. A limited selection of www.samefusy.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. drinks and snacks is offset by a horizontal A must for café junkies. There are over 100 atmosphere and an adjoining bookstore filled teas (ranging from the tame to the bizarre) with arty, coffee table tomes. to choose from. Sto 900 (E3) Sklep z Kanapkami (D3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241. Open 9:00ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11. Open Mon22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. A big 10:00-22:00. A fabulous café/restaurant with selection of hot and cold sandwiches served a spontaneous design that jumbles bricks and

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS wood with mismatched furniture. From the outside, this place looks like the entrance to a squat, so be surprised to learn it’s not just the atmosphere that’s ace. The menu changes daily, but usually involves commendable burgers (with a daring but successful addition of beetroot) alongside more unexpected dishes: e.g. eko-falafel.

9:00-22:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/ wine bar. With seating spilling out underneath the colonnades outside, this was easily the hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place BEST WAWA 2011 in Hoxton, London. “Newcomer & People Watching” Winner

Take off the Hat ul. Pańska 98, tel. 22 241 4000. Open 8:0021:00; Sat 12:00-21:00. A great name aside, Take off the Hat features sofas piled with soft toys and a clean design look that’s great for starting off the day. Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers. Wrzenie Świata (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 7, tel. 22 828 4998. Open daily 9:00-22:00. This café/bookshop doubles as the events room for the Institute of Reportage, so it’s scant surprise to learn the regulars are armed to the teeth with notebooks and macs. Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. Żywiciel (Żoliborz) pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 322 8228, www.zywiciel.pl. Open daily 9:00-23:00. This hipster café has gained a solid following thanks to its broad menu of breakfast choices. Casual, relaxing atmosphere, enhanced by the art hanging on Żywiciel’s brick walls.

WINE BARS C.K. Oboźna Cafe Bar (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 826 8317. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last guest; Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest. This slick wine bar just off Krakowskie Przedmieście has plumped up its offer with all day breakfasts (zł. 9.90, coffee or tea included) happy hours (12:00-16:00, 19:00-22:00) and sports broadcasts. Great, simple food and excellent wines from Austria and beyond. Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 14:0022:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European wine makers are impressive and the prices are very decent. Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro characterized by a casual décor and a laid-back atmosphere. Includes a seasonal menu of light dishes. Guccio Domagoj (Żoliborz) ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 392 7438, www.winachorwackie.pl. Open Tues-Sun 12:00-22:00. A sweet and intimate little place run by a charismatic Croatian, who stocks a huge variety of wines from his homeland. Very reasonably priced. Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newlyopened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours.

Rheingau and Mosel regions. La Passion du Vin (C4) ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0495, www.winnica.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Located in the Złote Tarasy shopping center, this chic wine bar features wines from France, South America, Israel, Italy and Australia. Treat yourself to the buy-one-get-one-free-lunch deal accompanied by a perfectly-matched wine. La Vinuela ul. Klimczaka 5, tel. 22 258 0017. Open 11:00-22:00. A pleasant Wilanów wine bar, whose stark look is balanced out by a short, concise menu that compliments the choice of European and New World wines. Definitely recommended is the salmon served with raspberry sauce and Dijon mustard. Les Secrets de Vin ul. Wałęcznych 68, tel. 780 578 571, www.secretsduvin.pl. Open Sun, Tues-Thurs 11:00-20:30; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. A small enterprise run by a pair of wine lovers – one of them, a certified graduate from l’Universite du Vin. The menu comprises of tapas snacks, and they also run wine tasting classes and Mediterranean language courses. Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes.

Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, Jung & Lecker (C5) tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00- premium wine shop and bar is tucked away 20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, chic. The locale offers daily specials that France, Austria and Spain, along with some feature two four-course menus. The shops’ stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries price range. Also serves a tasting menu of in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, cheeses and deli meats.

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Reviews: Spiskowcy Rozkoszy 59 Plus:

* 10 updates

NIGHTLIFE

BARS & PUBS 59 / JAZZ CLUBS 66 / CLUBS 65 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 66

Insider’s Pick

BARS & PUBS Absurd 228 ul. Puławska 228, tel. 22 252 0401. Open Tue-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-20:00. Upmarket, but with an industrial twist, Absurd could yet emerge as the number one concert venue for alternative sounds. The Mokotów location makes it a gamble, but the live music is popular with creatives. Bar 13 with Rene Geoffroy (D4) ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac Department Store). Open 12:00-last guest. Stone walls and metallic seats lend an austere aesthetic to this champagne bar, but that’s recompensed by seriously competitive prices: champers starts at zł. 29 per glass. Found in Poland’s first luxury department store, it’s a logical conclusion to your spending spree.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open 15:00-23:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

t feels almost a shame to write about Spiskowcy Rozkoszy – snuck down the unexplored end of Żurawia, it’s that secret bar you want all to yourself. Named after some cult 90s flick, this little diamond wins you instantly with an intimate layout that makes use of wobbling tables, sofas cloaked in velvety fabrics and a scattering of antique looking chests and cupboards. There’s also a dose of surrealism, one provided by a hand poking out from a wall, and a moustached mannequin crowned with a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. As for the toilet, that’s a review in itself – seemingly built into a former fireplace, it’s a lamp-lit refuge with a theatrical style. This spot isn’t short of charisma, but you’ll be wanting to come here for the beer and not anything else. The selection alone sign posts this as a serious bar, and I could happily spend hours just staring at their fridge. It’s here you’ll find a jackpot choice of artisan beers from Poland and its borderlands; beers like, for instance, Bearnard Pils – a smashing little drop with a bottle that’s a keeper. Then there’s the Ukrainian Stare Misto, a personal favorite clearly brewed in the heavens. You won’t be able to agree which beers are best, but you’ll certainly have fun arguing the toss. Of course, the concept of retailing craft lagers is not new to Warsaw. On the contrary, it’s become increasingly common for landlords to shun the big, nasty macro breweries in favor of regional producers. However, most such places are just too cool for school – hipster hangouts for middle-aged twits who travel by skateboard. Fortunately, these cretins aren’t the dominant group here. In fact, it’s hard to tell who is. Drawing from a wide range of custom, the spread of characters is as diverse as they come, and involves everything from greying pub poets to shrieking students showing scant fear of morning. To keep such a collection of creatures happy is no mean feat, and speaks amply for the venue. Put simply, if you like beer you’ll love SR. (AW)

Bar Tektura (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 22 702 9647. Open 12:00-last guest. Here’s a hyper cool haunt with a look anchored by brick and cardboard as the main decorative element (check the ornamental bison’s head), with additional touches including taps for coat hangers and Banksy-style wall art. And creativity is encouraged among the regulars – find pencils and papers on each table. The ‘Polski tapas’ are great, yet not nearly as good as the Estonian cider. Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, Tel. 504 320 497. Open 24hrs. A new bar inspired by old times. Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval. Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the hits of 2012, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary film posters and some token pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv Cafe across the road). Androgynous staff deal out Lithuanian beer and Lebanese starters from behind a sandbag bar in this standout café-bar.

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NIGHTLIFE *

Belvedere (E7) ul. Agrykoli 1 (enter from ul. Parkowa), www. belvedere.pl Long renowned as one of the top restaurant’s in Warsaw (Poland, even), Belvedere will be launching a high class al fresco bar this coming May. Ever imagined sipping cocktails while peacocks strut around you? Here’s your chance. Full review next issue. Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and

a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues. Bratnia Szatnia (C4) pl. Defilad 1, www.bratniaszatnia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bar, cafe, club, concert space – it’s all those and more. Set in the Palace of Culture, this place has everything from DJs and concerts to tango classes and art happenings. No surprise then to find a crowd of hip, urban media sorts staking claim to the seating.

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub. pl. Slated to launch at the start of April, we were still waiting for the Bulldog to officially welcome the first punters at press time – expect it to do so anytime soon. Located in what was once a ghastly effort called The London Steakhouse, we’re anticipating the definitive ex-pat experience. God willing, we’ll have more news next month. Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Four house lagers served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring blood rose colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), the interiors combine well with the copper brewing vats. The food though is amateurish, and at times inedible. Browarmia (C3)  ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. The location alone means it’s never short on footfall. Even so, with Browar de Brasil now open, this microbrewery has slipped further down the local Warsaw beer ladder.

Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00 With its harsh lights, white tiles and collapsible tables this could pass for a school canteen – at least it would if the customers weren’t too cool for school. There’s serious posing going on in between drinks, and you’re clearly a no-mark if you weren’t at the launch. Still in their infancy, prepare for teething problems: e.g., running out of lager.

Café Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Vast windows, vibrant colors and wide open spaces make it the polar opposite of the covert cocktail dens we usually like. But my God, the drinks here are special. The Chili

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Manhattan Dream is outstanding, and the Espressotini to die for – and after ordering eight we nearly did. Also on the roster, a range of impressive international beers. Cafe Kulturalna (C4)  Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience. Chłodna 25 (B3)  ul. Chłodna 25/Żelazna 75A, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. This Warsaw legend has a battered look and an artsy legacy; the sense of community is strong here, with thesps, students and musicians gathering on the patio to tonk back the Ciechan – and that’s got the neighbors up in arms. With their license up for renewal at press time, the future of C25 hangs in the balance. Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754. Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open Tues-Thurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00. Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00. Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

Czytadło (C1) ul. Freta 20/24. Open 11:00-last guest. The chilly service borders hostile, and you may find the majority of their beers out of stock. Outback, past the book lined front room, the smoking room alleviates the gloom.

Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00. Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its course. Flow (D4) ul. Chmielna 2, tel. 519 300 068. Open Sun-Thur 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-last guest. Undistinguishable from a British high street chain bar, the principal boon here is the massive smoking section. Otherwise it’s negative points all round: from over-priced cocktails to dismal DJs, this place has disaster written on it in big red letters. Huśtawka (D4) ul. Bracka 20A. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 16:00-last guest. A raw cultish hangout, popular with a non-conformist crowd who know how to party. Allegedly inspired by 80’s New York City, find this labyrinthine late-nighter in a courtyard palace.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different. Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism. Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jimmy Bradley’s (C4)  Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. The ex-pat world had a minor meltdown this year with the news that landlord Kevin Bradley had left the pub bearing his name. Fortunately, the pub itself is still very much alive, kicking and Warsaw’s best Irish haunt. Along with the

new front man come plenty of promises and pledges for more music, more TVs and an atmosphere that’s even more family friendly. Frankly, we don’t care if it’s Al Quaida friendly, so long as they continue the tradition of serving Poland’s best Guinness. Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw. Kosmos Kosmos (D6) ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 602 108 366. Open 11:00-last guest. A large cellar complex decorated with outlandish space murals, orange seats and lego bricks. And in the front, find a kids room complete with a slide. Warsaw’s hipster faction have already attached themselves to it, with the opening drawing a crowd of hundreds milling outside. Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to.

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NIGHTLIFE Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Lokal Użytkowy (D1) ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. 22 635 6838. Open Fri-Sat 18:30-23:30. This arty locale features swan white walls, graphic art and red, squeaky chairs from which to enjoy hard-to-find beers from CEE – Svyturys and Noteckie, for instance. It’s almost tempting to stick around for the weird events that unfold. Didgeridoo concert, anyone? Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest. Lots of middle aged hipsters wearing Teletubby t-shirts here, but they’re easy to ignore after beer No. 5. Touting sixty regional beers, the design doesn’t evolve beyond jam jars for lights and a blackboard for prices – it doesn’t need anything else to work; similar to a backstreet New York dive, it’s got an effortless cool and a permanent buzz. Meta na Mazowieckiej ul. Mazowiecka 16/22. Open 11:00-6:00. Filled with Breznev-era leftovers the latest venue from the Meta brand is a larger version of the Foksal original. Posters and vinyl (even a motorbike) from the PRL years decorate the walls, with the bulk of the action taking place in the smoking room in the back. Molly Malone’s ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41, tel. 693 333 954, www.mollymalone.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00. You’re not going to miss it: standing on street level, an elderly gent in top hat and tails waves customers in. Resist. Set over two floors, ground level features a narrow wood carved bar, while upstairs find music paraphernalia, benches

and, in our case, a band called Gangbang rehearsing for later. Forget the name, it’s a Polish pub for local students. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps. Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D2) ul. Nowy Świat 63, tel. 509 643 639. Open Sun-Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat, 11:00-5:00. A student heavy, leftist leaning cafe where laptops and portfolios are must have accessories. Rumors are though, they’re about to enter a battle with the city to secure their future. Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. Housed on floor 40 of the Marriott Hotel, the Panorama Bar has ditched it’s crass, Dallas style, and gone for a svelte, chic look that wouldn’t be amiss in a VIP club room. A romantic must, and all the better for its dazzling views; you can almost touch the top of the Palace of Culture outside. Paparazzi (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open Mon-Thu 18:001:00, Fri 18:00-2:00, Sat-Sun 18:00-2:00. Poland’s first cocktail chain, and a market leader to this day. Find a dressed-to-kill crowd of jet set glamour cats prowling the bar, as well as a smoking section that encompasses everything but the entrance.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest. Decorated in voluptuous Bordeaux colors, the design involves mismatching seats and tiled lampshades, and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives, musicians and other fringe dwellers. A big friendly dog loafing around and improvised music nights round out this Insider legend. And when they say they’re open to last guest, they really do mean it. Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest. Featuring gun-metal grey colors and cool catwalk sounds, this courtyard bar shares space with a design store of the same name: the kind

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which sells animal print deckchairs and lamps made from Jesus statues. The cocktails are fixed using mad scientist, molecular techniques and include the excellent vodka foam Dr. Collins Killer. Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19A, tel. 796 110 000. Open 24hrs. For a contrived look at what drinking was like in Warsaw, circa 1980, a trip to Pijalnia is a must. Bow tied staff serve vodka shots and pickles from behind a tiled bar, to a crowd that gets younger as the day grows older. In design terms it’s the polar opposite of Sense next door, but claims a similar crowd as the night hits fever pitch. In quieter times, checks the newspapered walls to read up on commie sports reports. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it. Pochwała Niekonsekwencji ul. Grójecka 118, tel. 22 823 1898. Open 10:00-1:00. As avant-garde as they come, you’d expect this sort of place in Praga, not the heart of Ochota. Filled with dog-eared books and contemporary art you’ll find the day’s offers chalked on the blackboard; among them, gourmet beers from obscure, offbeat breweries. Porto Praga ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www. portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.Some of Poland’s best cocktails knocked up by acrew of pros who know their trade inside out.Looking slinky smooth, PP is a one-stop destination: a top restaurant and bar shaken into one. Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am. Pub Lolek (B8)  ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 22 825

6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:00-03:00. The outdoor patio is packed in the summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling, while in winter a basic timber interior fills out come weekends.

furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers (e.g. Stare Misto from Ukraine), while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the best designs of 2011, with pretty much all interior features made from reusable materials: seats from shopping trolleys, tables from street signs and a bar from books. Shame about the one dimensional beer choice, therefore.

Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

Saturator (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 504 353 7772, www.saturator.art.pl. Open 19:00-last guest. Dirty and daring, nights at Saturator start off quiet before erupting into a full-on party for people of all proclivities. Definitely gives you a taste of Warsaw’s naughty side, with music coming courtesy of figures like DJ Ladyboy and Electrohell. Sense (D4)  ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. Design elements include natural stone and cool lighting, though the real draw are the drinks: don’t be swayed by the nay’sayers, Sense is still top of the tree when it comes to Poland’s best BEST WAWA 2011 “Cocktails” cocktails. Winner Sketch (E4)  ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors. SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 22 450 6707. Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. SPE have a new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs. Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Sun-Thur 15:0023:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-1:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www.syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Created by the same chaps behind the cult Warszaswa Powisle, SS is everything that the former isn’t. Set inside a 70s concrete monster this retro affair guns for a more seasoned, affluent crowd with an over 21 door policy and 80 types of whisky that range from the Welsh Penderyn and the Japanese Hibiki. Expect the bank balance to take a mauling: fifty złoty for a Lynchburg lemonade warrants a public enquiry.

Wiatraki (D4) ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 828 4034. Open daily 11:00-22:00. A backstreet, Dutch-owned haunt where great snacks and sandwiches are overshadowed only by the beer – find a series of gourmet Benelux beers inside this friendly, two-floor operation.

Zmysły ul. Nowogrodzka 20, tel. 662 635 552. Open 10:00-22:00. A pint of Perła for zł. 6.50? We’ll have ten. Hitting that half-ground between restaurant and pub, Zmysły reminds of an upscale country pub. Dark woods, vaulted brick ceilings, candles: it’s got atmosphere

NEW GENTLEMAN’S CLUB IN WARSAW!

Szparka (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370. Open 24hrs. It looks like a generic, city center bar, and while no longer a hip, happening haunt it’s as popular as ever with a middle-aged crowd. Set on numerous levels, its open hours alone demand Szparka’s inclusion to any Going Out list. Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world. Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.Located in a former ticket shack, this place is all PRL concrete and peeling signage. Looking cheap and chipboard, visual diversions are limited to frayed posters promoting upcoming bands. Instead, the eye candy comes in the form of the people.

Kredytowa 9, Warszawa 00-056 Open 21:00 - 5:00 22 828 23 07 www.libidoklub.pl info@libidoklub.pl

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THE MAYOR

PROWLING POWIŚLE

“Spring is nature’s way of saying: Let’s Party!” Robin Williams

sharing tables with total strangers Lolek-style. They also have a pizza oven outside selling pizza by the slice – a good deal for five zlots. It’s also a very popular stop with the rower riding lot of Warsaw. The owners like to claim that this is where vodka meets culture. I think it is where The Mayor meets beer.

SYRENI ŚPIEW

WARSZAWA POWIŚLE

Housed in a retro location if there ever was one, WP is located in a former ticket station for the above train and tram lines. While it resembles a UFO, the staff and clientele are down to earth, and very often you end up Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 M a y 2 0 1 2

R20

One of the leading restaurants in Warsaw, and a definite appearance on everyone’s P-List. You will need reservations for dinner, but you can usually snag a table for lunch now that they have added an outside garden. It’s a small but pricey menu, but I have never been disappointed with either the service or the food. Star gazers – you can usually spot a celebrity or two and all.

ŁAZIENKOWSKA 3

Łazienkowska 3 is a sports bar located in the Legia/Pepsi Arena. You can enter without going inside the arena, so it’s popular with locals who didn’t score tickets for the match. It is fitted out like a typical American sports bar with loads of TV’s, booths and bar stools, while the menu is full of classics like chicken wings, nachos and burgers. However, this place is the anti-Sketch, so don’t expect to pick up any babes here, just come with the boys and enjoy the game. I did notice a higher than usual meat-head factor, so if you are not a Legia fan, you might want to keep that to yourself.

PHOTOGRAPH BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

uring the Easter break, I made for warmer climes and enjoyed some much needed sun. Lounging by the pool, soaking in the 30° rays, I chuckled with satisfaction while browsing my iPhone Weather App: there they were, the familiar snowflakes depicting the Warsaw weather. Another Pina Colada please! What a difference a few weeks make. Spring, at last, has arrived in Warsaw, so we can wake up from our diurnal torpor and start heading outside again. Finally! For The Mayor, that means hitting up my local haunts in the Powiśle district. Powiśle has it all: restaurants, cafes, museums, libraries, gardens, hotels, stadiums, bowling alleys, hockey rinks, bike trails, skateboard parks, running tracks, and not one, but two Mini-Europas! Stick that in your pipe and smoke it. This is why P-Town, in my humble opinion, is the best place to live in Warsaw. Suck it Jolly-bush! Anyhow, enough of that, here’s the local unmissables:

This is owned by the same group who run Warszawa Powiśle above, but is marketed to a slightly more prosperous crowd. It’s still in its infancy having just opened a few months ago, but so far the signs are good. Last weekend, I was invited to an after-party for Warsaw Fashion Weekend, and the place was buzzing with hot models and some of Warsaw’s top party people. They pride themselves on a wide whisky selection and will be showcasing live music upstairs. This place will skyrocket if they are able to offer outdoor seating in the park.

in abundance. Low prices keep it popular with a studenty crowd. Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

CLUBS 1500m2 (F4) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. The most talked about dance space of 2010, and further evidence that Warsaw is catching up with Berlin when it comes to urban cool. Decorated with graffiti squiggles and industrial leftovers this warehouse space has acquired a name for dusk-till-dawn electro events. 18/11 Club by Theatro (E4) ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open Wed-Sat 18:00-6:00. A neon-lit basement space with smashed-glass surfaces and exotic undertones. Expect a top-dollar crowd slinking to the sounds of a bloke called Nobis.

Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. A massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, over-the-top décor and regal staircases. Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events. DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored. Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but every weekend, it manages to draw in big crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits. The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town. The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open WedFri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. The crowd is smoking hot, with a cutthroat door policy that sees egos crash and burn at the entrance. Run by the same team behind Platinium, the high jinks and capers are best observed from behind the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Hunters’ (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 606 393 540, www.huntersclub.pl. Open 22:00-6:00. Rising from the ashes of what was once Utopia is Hunters’, a high-end venue whose entry policy is every bit as daunting as that of the prior occupants. Aimed at a glam, fox-tailed crowd, this basement dance zone features factory grey colours interspersed with murals of tux-clad deer and ornamental mirrors. With nights like Gay Cum Back, it’s very much the VIP gay/straight/confused venue of choice. Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin. Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luzztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Then check Luzztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucer-eyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience. Your head will hate you.

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NIGHTLIFE Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine. Platinium (D3)  ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-1:00, Fri 12:00-5:00, Sat 16:00-5:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:00-6:00. A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks. Sqandal Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, tel. 602 876 776, www.sqandalbar.pl. Open Tues-Thurs 19:002:00; Fri-Sat 19:00-5:00. Jiggle under disco lights alongside buffed boys with their chest puffed out. Over the top glittery interiors compliment the pink and proud crowd.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS Coyote (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.coyotebar.eu. Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and a just-about-larger room outback. Stage action is tame, and doesn’t get all that much better behind the curtain.

New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00. High rollers looking to clinch in a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a ‘gentleman’s club’ with a seriously upmarket VIP dining area. Dishes include red tuna steak (zł. 199), Kobe beef (zł. 999), and French lobster (zł. 299). $$$ Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse. com.pl. Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians, as well as an atmosphere that’s way more chilled than the whooping, meat market style of other venues.

Seventh Sense (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 795 124 646. Strip clubs are a dime a dozen in Wa-wa nowadays, so to stand from the crowd you need something different – how about a jacuzzi room? Or a yellow ‘bar bus’ kitted out with lap dancing poles. Gimmicks aside, having a intimate, luxury atmosphere helps their cause, as does the requisite line-up of centerfold candidates.

Sofia ul. Polna 13, www.klubsofia.pl. A.k.a The Bulgarian Embassy, Sofia have rebuilt the reputation earned during their city center heyday in the naughty noughties. Sure, the atmosphere is more restrained than in their former location, but the dancers aren’t. Sogo (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.sogoclub.pl. The neon lit exterior would dazzle from space. Inside, find a vast strip club that opens up over a couple of floors. Dancers are in plentiful supply, with several resembling fallen angels. The bouncers are less approachable and don’t tolerate monkey business – tread carefully.

JAZZ CLUBS Tygmont Jazz Club (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00. For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.

7TH SENSE WBC GENTLEMAN’S CLUB • Only club in Warsaw with Jacuzzi room • Open every day from 8 PM till last guest • We organize bachelor parties, stag nights and hen night Żurawia 22, Warsaw 514-910-323

Libido ul. Kredytowa 9, www.libidoklub. pl. It’s practically round the corner from the Zachęta Gallery, though you’ll probably enjoy the masterpieces here more. Run by the same team behind Sofia, this three floor mega club makes use of a location just up from Warsaw’s favorite upmarket party street: Mazowiecka.

Sin ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, www.sinclub. com.pl. One of the biggest and best dance stables in town offers a pleasingly international line-up that demonstrates a serious recruitment drive. You won’t find a more central strip club in town.

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 M a y 2 0 1 2

Reviews: Chiara 67

SHOPPING

ACCESSORIES 69 / FASHION 67 / HOME DECOR 70 / SHOPPING MALLS 70

Insider’s Pick

FASHION Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Anna Walker (B6) tel. 22 825 0664, www.annawalker.eu. This new atelier comes from Canadian designer Anna Walker. A bright, welcoming showroom houses a collection of stylish gowns for special events and formal occasions.

Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 609 888 363, www.bizuu.pl. A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season.

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

his shop is relatively new, popping up a few months ago amidst the spanking new office buildings along Mokotowska and Piękna. But I’ve been shopping at Chiara’s Promenada location for years and it’s always been one of the best resources for the hottest shoes and accessories from top international designers. I’m a New York girl so I’ll never tire of anything Marc Jacobs and Chiara stocks a solid assortment of MJ’s latest bags, shoes and assorted essentials. Chiara’s already got its spring collection in full gear, but it’s revealed bit by bit over the weeks, with some treasures stowed in the back and brought out at just the right moment. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 - bright colors, florals, platform heels and wedges, along with the staple issue camel, black and brown boots and pumps. Yes, boots too, because we all know that early spring in Warsaw is unpredictable and a fine Michael Kors lightweight boot is just what girls need to get us through the muck. As I hungrily surveyed the goods, I found the piece that is my ultimate must-have for spring – a snakeskin-print bag with an added polka-dot pattern in muted grays designed, of course, by my guru Mr Jacobs. I was even more delighted with the bag when I found out it’s actually not leather, but made of an eco-friendly synthetic material. Plus, the price isn’t bad at about zł. 1,500. It’s not quite a steal, but then MJ is never really a bargain anyway. I also quite fancied a neon yellow and navy leather tote – also by Marc Jacobs – but I’m saving up my złoty for the ultimate roomy purse for spring: snakeskin print and polka-dots galore! (AL)

Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00. This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix. Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands. Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Labels inc. Prada, Smith, McCartney and more.

www.warsawinsider.pl

SHOPPING Emporio Armani (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 22 626 0650. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. The name speaks for itself. If you’re craving a bit of Milano style, make sure to stop into the Emporio Armani store, just off the Rondo De Gaulle’a in the center of town. Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, www.zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the welldressed man, from suits to belts, sportswear and cologne. Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. This concept store, now re-opened on ul. Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on ul. Mokotowska. Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs

her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one. L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl. Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00;

Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man.

Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www. loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. High quality menswear from premium labels such as Pointes & Coutures, Brunello Cucinelli and Cerruti 1881. Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. The Luxury bar on ul. Nowy Świat went bankrupt in about a minute. But its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre. While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip. Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom. Max Mara ul. Nowy Świat 1. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Poland’s first Max Mara mega store, with interior designed by Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Find all the latest from Max Mara Runway and the Max Mara Atelier coat collection, as well as Sportmax Runway and a growing range of in-house accessories. Mokobelle ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance from Mokotowska 54), tel. 508 010 204. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. An eclectic collection of Polish jewelry, along with pieces from worldclass names like Rodrigo Otazu.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759 ul. Żurawia 2, tel. 22 628 2217 snob@snobissimo.pl, www.snobissimo.pl

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 M a y 2 0 1 2

Deha, Gianvito Rossi, Sona Rykiel, Les Copains, Paule Ka, Jimmy Choo, Giuseppe Zanotti, Wolford, Sergio Rossi

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

sories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@ plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace. Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Reykjavik District (F4) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it. Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up. Rudolf & Co. (by appointment only) tel. 790 604 634, www.rudolfco.com. A team of six tailors, the selection of which took some four years to finalise, sews items in-house. A darling of local press, with bespoke suits a specialty.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www. snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and acces-

ACCESSORIES 400 Rabbits (E6) ul. Mokotowska 24, tel. 22 629 2636, www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. This is more than just a sneaker shop. Art, sport and fashion unite in this funky space. Batycki (various locations) ul. Zgoda 9 & ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel), tel. 22 828 2167, www.batycki.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00. Bozena Batycka’s sleek,

simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite. Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery

“The clothes are chic, cut well and there is a bit of everything for everyone” - WARSAW INSIDER

“It’s a good place for fashion lovers and those who like to experiment” - GAZETA WYBORCZA

“reykjavik district delights with simplicity, high end fashion and anoriginal look to the shop. It’s a really nice alternative for men” - ZWIERCIADŁO MAGAZINE

Boutique: ul. Solec 18/20 Tue- Fri 13:00-19:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 +48 505 499 669 www.reykjavikdistrict.pl

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SHOPPING that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. Hublot Boutique (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 821 0101. This luxury boutique features the most coveted timepieces in all the world. Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, www.lilou.pl. Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Pracovnia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, tel. 622 12 12, www. pracowniaczasu.pl. Luxury watches from brands like Corum, Vulcain, Ulysee Nardin, Magellan and Fortis.

HOME DECOR Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home.

ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. www. egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in English is available. MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm. Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche. Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339; ul.

Szpitalna 8, tel. 22826 0008. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00. www.redonion.pl. Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

Scandinavian Living ul. Górnośląska 33, tel. 22 629 0361, www.scandinavianliving. pl. Furniture and design store with Scandinavian brands such as Swedese, Odd Molly, Bloomingville and Marimekko.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Fashion House Outlet Centre (E8) ul. Puławska 42E, www.fashionhouse.pl Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15,Open Mon-Thurs 9:0021:30, Fri 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00

Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney etc…

Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

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Reviews: Mums & Tots 71

CHILDREN ACTIVITIES 71 / CAFES 72 / EDUCATION 72

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl. A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered. Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

Mums & Tots For info: postmaster@mumsandtots.com, www.mumsandtots.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

ot much is free these days, yet friendship in foreign lands is priceless. That’s why Mums & Tots of Warsaw is such a vital asset to ‘stay at home’ parents endeavoring to master family life in Wa-wa. Without M&T I might have waddled, bump and all, right back to my comfort zone: Holland! But hell, my predicament meant I had a duty to disrupt my husband’s weekly commute to his bachelor pad lifestyle – Warsaw had to work! I googled, ‘Help! mum/bump in Warsaw’, and one pelvic floor later a taxi was speeding me to a gated complex in Wilanów. On entering the stranger’s apartment, I trundled into a room bursting with babies drooling, squealing and crawling around the ankles of women who were happily gossiping and guzzling coffee at the same time. At seven months pregnant I reluctantly declined caffeine but accepted the extra-large wedge of homemade carrot cake and kick-started, courtesy of my bump, conversations about the where, what and how of surviving motherhood in Warsaw. Two hours later, with one friend for life and my brain brimming with tips, I knew if other mums could relocate then so could I. But the best knowledge gained that day was the time, date and address for the next meeting. And so my days continued; taking when needed, and giving back when I could: by hosting play dates, and later, through a two year stint as newsletter editor. This volunteer organization, for mums and dads of all nationalities, was started some 15 years ago by a clutch of female pioneers. The core group changes (M&T have since embraced technology with a Facebook page and a classified section offering everything from babysitter recommendations to secondhand strollers), yet the concept remains the same. That’s because what these mum’s needed, be it mini music, mum’s & bump’s, access to charity work or the notorious mum’s night out – we need too! So if you have pre-school age children, wisdom or woe to share, a gap on the rug, the ability to make tea or coffee and the odd biscuit then I strongly recommend, not just membership, but participation in this organization. (GBB)

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym. Over 300 locations worldwide, with the first one in Poland opened last November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well. Patataj ul. Krótka 9, www.patataj.com. Patataj offer riding lessons and pony trekking in a scenic location 25 mins from Warsaw. Polish is the mother tongue here, but actions speak louder than words where riding is concerned. Finish the day in the karczma. Teatr Guliwer ul. Różana 16, www.teatrguliwer.waw.pl. Well worth a visit, even for non-Polish speakers. An exciting colorful premises with creative costumes make this the choice place to introduce the kids to theater. Tramwaj Wodny www.zegluga-stoleczna.pl. One of the few boats to be seen on the river chugs up and

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CHILDREN down the Wisła from May onwards. The crew, dressed in pirate-like Breton stripes, are even happy to let the children have a tug on the wheel. Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, www.zoo.waw.pl. The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’. This year though, all eyes are on three tiger cubs born in Feb.

CAFES Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, figazmakiem.edu.pl. One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room. Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials. Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. The interiors look great, bright and cheerful

with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space. My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, www.mybabycafe. pl. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums. Pompon (Wola) ul. Młynarska 13, www.pompmart.pl. An organic menu and a gated play area equipped with slides, rope bridges and a selection of Wendy houses mark out Pompon, while the Nintendo Wii room is as popular with dads as it is with their lads. Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, www.nowakuznia.pl. In the seasonal garden, the sandpit comes with a kid-sized bulldozer that makes you wish you were a munchkin again. For the colder temperatures, check out the indoor play area. The kids menu equally impresses.

Numery Litery (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, www.numerylitery.pl. Deep sofas aside, compact Numery Litery gets it right with a gargantuam selection of books to inspire your budding bookworm to literary greatness. Plenty of reading matter for the adults, as well.

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

ABC Play & Learn (H5) ul. Genewska 27, Saska Kępa, tel. 22 616 2066, www.abc.org.pl. Located in the leafy residential district of Saska Kępa, ABC Play & Learn provides a creative and educational space for small children, with capacious play rooms filled with toys and hands-on materials. Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob. 502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl. This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English. They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching. The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777; ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281; www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School

FREE INTRODUCTORY CLASS !

www.thelittlegym.pl

Parent/Child Classes

Pre-school

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Primary School Gymnastics

Holiday Camps

Birthday parties

provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school. Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old. The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse.com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@ theenglishplayhouse.com. Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

International Preschool (E11) ul. Zawrat 14, tel. 22 843 0964, preschool@ preschool.pl, www.preschool.pl. Serving the children of American Embassy and non-embassy families for over 50 years, the International Preschool of Warsaw is located in the heart of Mokotów district.

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www. kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods. Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy. eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

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CHILDREN SCHOOLS

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@ aswarsaw.org, www. aswarsaw.org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18. The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281,

british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244. The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international

staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300. The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@canadian-school.pl. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75, tel. 22 842 4448, ies@ies-warsaw.pl. In operation since 2002 the International European School teaches the Polish National Curriculum in English language to both primary and mid-school level. La Fontaine Polish-French Primary School ul. Okrężna 95, Mokotów, tel. 22 885 0020, www.lafontaine.edu.pl. The school has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching for children aged from 6 to 12 years old.

Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

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Reviews: Bone “Pet Club” 75 / Plus:

* 2 updates

LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 75 / COMMUNITY 82 / FITNESS 79 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 79 / MEDICAL 79 / TRANSPORTATION 78

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities. Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services. Offical base of Poland’s Euro 2012 football team. InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor. Bone “Pet Club” ul. Jedności 118, Janczewice, tel. 756 71 10, www.petclub.pl

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF BONE “PET CLUB”

hould you be looking for a place to pamper your pooch, then lucky you, the Insider has found just the place for you and your furry accomplice: The Bone Pet Club, a new ‘pet hotel and play center,’ located ten minutes from Okęcie. Launched in August, the BPC has recently branched out from offering just pet hotel services (for dogs and cats), and now also provides pet daycare, a fitness center, a pool and an exclusive boutique where pet owners can purchase all sorts of luxury accessories for their four-legged friends. It’s a great place to come with your dog on a rainy weekend, and spend some quality time playing and / or allowing him/her/it to play with other dogs, or just to drop your pet off for the day, while you go to work. The club offers games, toy chases, and the sniffing and tracking of hidden goodies, as well as consultations with a dog behaviorist specialist trained to give you a psychological insight into the inner thoughts of your canine bud. And, neither is this all particularly expensive. A pool pass is priced at zł. 15, consultations with the pet shrink zł. 35, and a night lodging at the hotel zł. 95. Not that the offer ends there. Aside from the beds, daycare, pool and fitness areas, the Bone Pet Club also has a hairdresser, trainer and a specialist taxi service to ferry Fido from A to B. (ID)

Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna. Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

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LIFESTYLE Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł. 528 (weekdays), zł. 376 (weekend). Gym and swimming pool. The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. 24-hour fitness centre for guests only. Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna. Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public. Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60-235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only. Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

3-star hotels

Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included. Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl. Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł. 279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square. For cheaper alternative, check their downtown hostel branch, the Oki Doki

Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł. 299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room.

Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests.

Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €78-112.

Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www. reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł. 250 (weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included.

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend). Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000,

www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com. Single and double rooms: zł.265-480. Wellness centre and sauna.

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

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APARTMENTS

Central Apart ul. Łucka 2/4/6 m.45, tel. 22 357 0975, www.wawahotele.pl. Apartments for one to four people in locations across town. Prices from zł. 190. InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana. A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays. P & O Apartments ul. Kasprowicza 91, tel. 22 636 8699, www.pandoapartments.com.pl. Top One Apartments ul. Graniczna 4, tel. 608 205 769, www.topnoclegwarszawa.pl.

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3. Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl. Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789. Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl. Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077.

Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients. CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com. Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com. DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl. Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com. Euro Move International Movers

ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl. Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. Some 47 offices in 35 countries which facilitate easing the transition across borders. Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com. Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

TAXIS

Bayer tel. 22 19697 City Taxi tel. 22 19459 Ele Taxi tel. 22 811 11 11 Glob Taxi tel. 22 19668 Grosik Taxi tel. 22 6464646 tel. 22 677 7777 Merc

MPT tel. 22 1919 OK Taxi tel. 22 19628 Sawa tel. 22 644 4444 Super Taxi tel. 22 19622 Volfra tel. 22 19625 Wawa tel. 22 19644 tktktk tel. 22 19644 ttktktk tel. 22 19644

HEALTH & BEAUTY SPAS & SALONS

AcuMed Asian Therapies ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100, www.tuina.pl. Qigong – Daoyin – Meditation in small groups. Also offers special exercises for improving physical & mental health and increasing energy. Beauty Secret/Spa/Retreat ul. Nowowiejska 38, Józefów, tel. 22 789 2016, www.beautysecret.pl. Located about 20 km outside of Warsaw, Beauty Secret is the place to go and recharge your batteries, relax and get pampered.

www.warsawinsider.pl

LIFESTYLE *

BB Clinic ul. Grzybowska 3, tel. 22 403 65 72, www.bbclinic.pl. An array of body and beauty treatments inside pristine five star facilities. Whether you want to stop cellulite, the perfect bottom or just expert diet advice, there’s few better qualified.

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Koszykowa 31, tel. 22 621 1404, www. nailspabiosis.pl. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160,

www.bodyclinic.pl. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. Club Oasis Spa Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is definitely one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw. Amazing Clarins body firming and rejuvenating treatments, deep tissue massage and luxurious La Prairie facial treatments at the beauty centre round out a healthy lifestyle. The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22

Ren Clinic is a modern clinic specializing in the field of surgical care cosmetics, medical dermatology and aesthetic medicine.

622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-ofthe-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed. Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher East, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage, as well as all the other more typical spa services. Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331 0808, www.diorinstitut.com. This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs. Fabryka Próżnosci ul. Cecylii Śniegockiej 8 lok.101, tel. 22 312 1909, www.fabrykaproznosci.pl. Has a full suit of facials, massages (all the main schools are represented); competitive prices, and plenty of English-speaking therapists. Fish Spa ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 414 3737, www.fishspainstytut.pl. Let 200 Garra Rufa fish do the work on your pedicure and manicure. Alternatively, enjoy more traditional (ie. less fishy) facials and body massages – all at reaonable prices in the heart of the center. Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288, www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense with the farce and make your hair look great. They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee.

We offer: • Laserotherapy

• Removal of stretch marks • Shallowing acne and traumatic scars

• Wrinkle removal • Closing deep vassels • Laser hair removal • Endermology • Aesthetic Medicine

- Wrinkle Removal using a Palomar Star Lux 500 - 50% discount for stretch marks removal using fractional laser al. gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A tel. 22 414 2222, www.renclinic.pl

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Izar Repechage ul. Molera 1, tel. 22 827 7195, www.repechage.net.pl. A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatment for the whole body. Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428. This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. Multico Wellness & Spa ul. Bitwy pod Rokitną 1 (in Old Żoliborz), tel. 22 869 9631, www.multico.pl. A modern fitness center and gorgeous pool make this a chic place to work out and relax.

Now offers spa services and great massages. Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages. Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, www.jejijego.pl. Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments. Sungate Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 517 012 880, www. spasungate.pl. A ‘feast for the five senses’ with a wide range of treatments and massage as well as a VIP room for couples.

FITNESS CLUBS

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance. Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel (E8) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes in one of Warsaw’s best five stars. zł.100 per day.

World Class Health Academy (B4) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, www.worldclass.pl. Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00. Situated inside Warsaw’s Marriott hotel, this gym offers all the fitness services you need.

MEDICAL MEDICALPRIVATE CLINICS

AcuMed Asian Therapies – Traditional Medicine Clinic ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100. www.tuina.pl. Holistic treatment of spinal, headaches, stress, pains, allergies. Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654 2116, www.austriadent.pl.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A, tel. 22 414 2222, www. renclinic.pl. Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more. Well Now Dental Clinic (Wilanów) ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 2A, tel. 22 403 8800, www.wellnow.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-20:30, Sat 9:30-14:30.

PRIVATE CLINICS

ARUMED Arumed Oriental Medical Center, ul. Noakowskiego 8, tel. 22 825 93 96. The OMC doctors offer acupuncture, acupressure, herbal medicines, and medical massage for complete health.

Centrum Pomocy Profesjonalnej (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 80, floor 21, room 129, Babka Tower, tel. 22 637 4080; ul. Puławska 257 (floor 1, suite 71), Melody Park, tel. 22 241 2444, www.cpp.eu.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl. Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

Dentalux ul. Racławicka 131, tel. 22 823 7222, www.dentalux.pl.

Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian.com.pl.

Margaret Rybak, Psy.D. ul. Lipska 27/24. US-trained doctoral level psychologist. APA member. Specialises in individual psychotherapy for adults and children. For more information: www.mrybak.waw.pl, mob. 606 518 151.

Citident ul. Młynarska 26/28, tel. 22 862 4770, www.citident.pl. Enel-Med Medical Centre Atrium Plaza, Al. Jana Pawła II 29; Arkadia

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel (E5) ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton. com/warsaw. Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna. Price: zł. 3,420/year. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 630 6306, www.holmesplace.pl. Premium fitness and leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates two more Energy Clubs in Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia. RiverView Wellness Centre at the InterContinental Hotel (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8640, www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the pool offers a glorious panoramic view of the city.

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LIFESTYLE (A1), Al. Jana Pawła II 82; Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179; www.enel.pl For an appointment: tel. 22 311 7777. Eurodental ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 22 857 0088, www.eurodental.pl. Lim Medical Center Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5), ul. Domaniewska 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78, tel. 22 458 7000, www.cmlim.pl. Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl. Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900, www.medicover.com. Vertebralia ul. Postępu 6, tel. 22 449 2828, www.vertebralia.pl. A clinic specializing in the integrated treatment of all kinds of spinal illness. With 20 years of experience, they perform innovative treatments with state-ofthe-art equipment.

24-HOUR PHARMACIES

Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54 Al. Solidarności 149, tel. 22 620 0818. ul. Wilcza 31, tel. 22 834 5804. ul. Puławska 39

COMMUNITY Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Meetings take place on ul. Radna, buzzer #3. Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat 11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month). American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs supporting vital needs in our host country. For more information: info@afw.waw.pl. Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, 1st floor; tel/fax: 22 827 6000; e-mail: amnesty@ amnesty.org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 0000 0000 0959 0181. Art Friends’ Society For info, contact Justyna Napiórkowska: e-mail: justyna@napiorkowska.pl, mob. 603 378 567. Blanc Lys (Wola) ul. Księcia Janusza 23, tel. 508 162 810, www.blanc-lys.com. The first self-service laundromat in Warsaw, open daily 08:0020:00. Free wi-fi.

Bread of Life (Chleb Życia) ul. Nowogrodzka 6, www.chlebzycia.org.pl. Sells items made by both the homeless and women fleeing domestic violence. If you’re interested in the work of the Bread of Life, or would simply like to sponsor a student, email Elizabeth via iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com. Cumann Warszawa Gaelic Football Team Poland’s first Gaelic football team is up and running. The club offers weekly training, competitive games against other European GAA opposition and regular social events and is open to players and members from all nationalities. For more information contact Eoin 518 425 587 or cumannwarszawa@gmail.com. Dharma Yoga in English. It’s well worth visiting the English/ Polish website for more information on the specific practices of this type of yoga, the offers at hand for first-time students as well as sneaking a peak at the photo journalism of key practitioner, Sabina Steckiewicz’s travels around India. Find out more at: www.dharmayoga.pl. Dr Clown Foundation ul. Goszczyńskiego 9, www.drclown.pl.aa Provide Patch Adams-style entertainment to kids in 68 hospitals and clinics across Poland. Further info: tel. 22 854 0501, 02 or 03. English Speaking Book Club We meet once a month in Ganders Teahouse (ul. Francuska 12). The meetings provide a good opportunity for stimulating discussions and for those new to Warsaw - a chance of meeting people in a very relaxed setting. There are no membership fees. For more info, contact: marzena.reich@gmail.com. The English-Speaking Expatriate Business Owners in Poland Association This non-profit association serves a niche group of expatriates within the framework of “expat CEOs helping expat CEOs without business competition getting in-between.” For further information, please contact Richard Whipple (Founder), tel. 504 346 406. European Social Democrats in Poland Contact Tim Clapham at tel. 22 624 0470, timclapham@poczta.onet.pl or Jean-Yves Leconte at mob. 0604 960 555, jy.leconte@ assemblee-afe.fr.

The Ex-Animo Foundation An organization that helps care for young cancer patients at the Children’s Memorial

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Health Institute - the largest children’s oncology center in Poland. www.exanimo.pl. Expats-in-Poland.com Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive information and services for foreigners including immigration, work permits, driving licences, renting and buying properties, healthcare, education and more. For more information: www.expats-in-poland.com. Expatriates Services PFF ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. Services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence & work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information: tel. 22 828 1501, www.pff-warsaw.com. Food Banks All thirty food banks operating in Poland deliver food aid to those in need – as many as 5 million people. To donate food or get involved go to www.bankizywnosci.pl. Foundation for Poland This is a charity organization that reaches out to street children and other youths. They also manage a number of other projects. For more information: www.fdp.org.pl. Friends Creative Activities ul. Przyczółkowa 334, tel. 22 642 0843, www.friends-ca.pl.Handicraft workshops for both kids and adults alike. Come and visit our world of creative activities and share your passion with us...

Habitat for Humanity International This is a non-profit organization that helps the working poor build and afford their own houses. For more information: ul. Idzikowskiego 2/16, tel. 22 642 9520, poland@habitat.pl, www.habitat.pl. International Rotary Club The only English speaking Rotary Club in Warsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join the weekly meetings held at the Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45. For info: tel. 601 897 731. International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings aheld on the second and fourth Monday of the month. For more info email iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com. Italiani in Polonia ul. Dąbrowskiego 82C, tel. 22 845 0652, www.italianiinpolonia.org. The biggest Italian community group in Warsaw. Hosts regular social gatherings, lectures and special events for members. The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) Offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl. Mabor Acculturation Services Expatriates feeling a bit of “culture shock” in Poland can find refuge at Mabor. The organization hosts 2-hour meetings led by

a trained cultural psychologist that help members with the adaptive acculturation process, providing tools for understanding and accepting a new social environment. Meetings take place at the end of every month at Mabor headquarters. Cost per session zł.100. For info, contact Anna Osińska at: a.osinska@mabor.com.pl. New Europe Writers Ink (D5) A fellowship of writers creating poetry and prose fiction in English. For more information: ul. Marszałkowska 80, mailbox 151, editor@ new-ink.org, www.new-europe-writers-ink.com. Pol-in.pl – Professional Expat Assistance Information and services for foreigners such as: residence permit, visas, work permit, real estate, money transfer (Western Union), car rental and more. Info: www.pol-in.pl. Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook. St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl. The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year. Talizman The Talizman Foundation is a non-profit

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium, ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, mob. 502 198 782. Fundacja Dziecięca Fantazja Poland’s own “Make-A-Wish Foundation” focus to “light up the lives” of terminally-ill children in Poland by making their fondest wishes and dreams come true. More info at: email: info@f-df.pl, www.f-df.pl. Fundacja Świętego Mikołaja ul. Przesmyckiego 40, Piaseczno, tel. 22 825 0390. The St. Nicholas Foundation has been contributing funds to needy children and families for over ten years. To support the foundation, wire funds to Volkswagen Bank Polska S.A. 64 2130 0004 2001 0299 9993 0001 (KRS 0000126602). www.mikolaj.org.pl.

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LIFESTYLE registered charity. More information: www. talizman.org. Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine. To request an invitation or for further information please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353. Toastmasters International (E5) Toastmasters Polska club invites all to the weekly meetings, to master the art of Public Speaking and presentation skills. Meetings every Wednesday at 19.00 in the Warsaw Stock Exchange, Catalyst room 1st floor, ul. Książęca 4. Guests are most welcome with no commitment other than a short introduction. More info at toastmasters.org.pl or ring Etan at tel. 696 292 451. TravelFriends.pl TravelFriends.pl is a community travel portal designed for anyone who’s up for meeting new people, whether it’s searching for travel companions or roommates, finding a partner, spicing up your free time, or just widening your circle of friends. For further information, contact Beata Sieradzka at info@ travelfriends.pl, Visit their website at www. travelfriends.pl. Warsaw Beavers

Warsaw’s first expatriate ice hockey team trains Thursday and Sunday nights. For more information, contact Randy Gabrielson 606 247 347 or e-mail to: warsawbeavers@gmail.com.

& everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time courses get online course for free.

The Warsaw School of Photography A leading private institution in Poland offering photography courses in English for beginners and intermediate, theory, practice and field trips. For more information: www.wsfoto.art. pl/english.

Klub Dialgou ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13/156, tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl. Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice. Tailormade packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629 9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offering a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals. Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 501 299 338, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: info@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company or other convenient locations. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles. Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business

Lingua Polonica Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients. Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices. Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson. Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl. Modern.edu School of Language Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 85 14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, www.modern.edu.pl. A wide range of Polish classes and customized courses at attractive prices - either in small groups or private classes.

POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS Tailor-made INDIVIDUAL and MINIGROUP courses - intensive - regular - weekend at the school or at your place First Lesson Free Free conversation classes

tel. 664 788 004 info@klubdialogu.pl www.klubdialogu.pl

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 M a y 2 0 1 2

STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

84 84

Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

Wa r s a wInsider: I n s i d e01-31 r : 0 1 May – 3 12012 M a r ch 2 0 1 1 Warsaw

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

classifieds

American preschool for 3-5 year olds opening in Warsaw in September 2012 is looking for experienced director, experienced teachers and assistant teachers, all native speakers.

classifieds

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

Please email your resume and cover letter in strict confidence to info@kindercapital.pl

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Over 750 students enrolled Over 50 different nationalities Outstanding IB and I/GCSE results Superb facilities in the heart of Warsaw High quality teaching provided by committed British, International and local staff A complete education from 2,5-18 years Following the English National Curriculum Wide range of extracurricular activities

Brit_school.indd 1

l. Limanowskiego 15 u 02-943 Warszawa T: +48 22 843 81 31 F: +48 22 842 81 65 E: admissions@thebritishschool.pl W: www.thebritishschool.pl 11-08-24 08:35

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW?

travel by bike and see what happens around. I like the fact that in Warsaw every place is not so far away, and you need only your legs to go where you like... Do you have a favorite street then? Rozbrat. There’s a big park on a little hill on one side, and beautiful, old buildings on the other. I like to cycle on this street a lot . What’s your favorite purchase out here? My yellow bike! I didn’t really buy it, it was a present, but the best present I’ve received in Poland. Italian food needs no introduction – you really must have thought ‘uh-oh’ when you sat down for your first meal in Warsaw... My first experience of Polish food was strange. It was my first visit to Poland, we crossed the border very hungry and found a place to eat. Because I’m a vegetarian, I wasn’t able to choose anything... At the beginning, in Warsaw, my friends wanted to show me a bar mleczny, but no matter how many times I’ve tried it’s just not for me. However, I do love Polish beer!!!

Italian actress Martina Rampulla arrived in Poland in 2005, during which time she’s become a fixture at the cult Studium Teatralne theater in artsy Praga. Here’s her Warsaw... What’s special about Warsaw? I like Warsaw, because I ‘do’ what I like to ‘do’, I took my chance. The first reason I’m living in Warsaw is that I’m working with a theater company I saw in Italy ten years ago and I was certain then that it was the best I had ever seen! And Warsaw has the measure of a man – meaning it’s comfortable to live in: I was born and lived in Rome, everything there is so big and far away.

Tell us about your neighborhood hangout... I live close to the center of Warsaw, but I haven’t much free time so I don’t have a favorite place to visit so often. When I meet up with friends we choose different places. I like change! When I’m alone I don’t like to stop in one place. I like to Warsaw Insider: 01-31 May 2012

Enough of that, how the devil do you memorize a script? I think that memorizing a text isn’t so difficult, but I guess that’s the reason I’m able to do so! I can memorize faster if I write out the text many times – maybe through this repetition I can see and read it in my mind! When I forget about it, the text just stays somewhere in my mind. It’s incredible, but I can actually memorize texts faster in Polish than in Italian – possibly because it’s not my language and I think in another way… Is there a role you dream about playing? When I was 15 years old I saw Cats in Milan. From that moment on it became my dream to play a cat in a musical. What’s the best line you’ve ever delivered? “Madame, the world is collapsing, the world bathes itself in blood and tears, and for you Madame, cakes are necessary for happiness?” Catch Martina Rampulla treading the boards at Studium Teatralne, ul. Lubelska 30/32, www.studiumteatralne.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY SEAN PALMER

THE ITALIAN JOB

Favorite theater? I like the theater where I’m working, Studium Teatralne: a group that was founded around 15 years ago. I’ve been working there for seven. In my opinion, it has life! Our work is based on the art of the actor, and on the man who is the actor – I know that sounds normal for theater and for actors, but it’s not like that everywhere.

A graduate of the prestigous Westminster College London, Botswanan born Joseph Seeletso needs little introduction. A frequent fixture on Good Morning TVN, the celebrity chef opened Joseph’s last year, thereby achieving his ambition of having his own private space to create “heavenly combinations” of meals and wine. Set in a former warehouse, the cosmopolitan Joseph’s is the effortless epitome of ‘loft cool’, and has taken Warsaw by storm with a non-standard menu that reflects Chef Seeletso’s creativity. And it’s not just the level of Polish gastronomy that has been raised with the success of Joseph’s. Wine plays an equally key role, with sommelier Rafał Kiś on hand to aid with your wine choice. • A MASTERFUL MENU CREATED BY CHEF JOSEPH • COOKERY CLASSES WITH JOSEPH SEELETSO • 700 WINE LABELS • WINE TASTING CLASSES WITH A QUALIFIED SOMMELIER • ON-SITE SHOP • LOYALTY PROGRAM Duchnicka 3 Street 01-796, Warszawa mob. 48 501 491 396, tel. 48 22 320 2988 duchnicka@josephwinebar.pl www.kuchniajozka.pl www.josephwinebar.pl