Warsaw Insider June 2012 # 190

EURO 2012 SPECIAL ISSUE 06

(190)

2012

plus:

72 hours in WARSAW

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

price zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

ul. Argrkoli 1

(entrance from ul. Parkowa)

tel. 22 55 86 700 mob. + 48 606 102 002 restauracja@belvedere.com.pl

An exceptional restaurant in the most beautiful place in Warsaw www.belvedere.com.pl

to our readers

JUNE 2012

Euro Vision

he excitement is palpable. Years of preparation comes to a head this June when Ukraine and Poland roll out the welcome mat for Euro 2012. The road – quite literally – has not always been smooth; in Poland’s case, the leadup has been marred by corruption scandals of the highest order: at one stage, the government stepped in to suspend its own football association. Controversy and scandal have dogged other preparations as well: not least regarding the thorny topic of infrastructure. Fortunately, plans to set prisoners to work on the roads – chain gang style – never moved past the laugh out loud stage. Now, miraculously somewhat, it appears Poland have their house in order just in the nick of time; like a groom who makes it panting to the wedding altar with minutes to spare, Poland can reflect on it all with a degree of ‘told you we’d do it,’ self-satisfaction. It helps, of course, that Ukraine have deflected some of the heat – while Poland was hurriedly putting finishing touches to airports and playing fields, their co-hosts were batting away accusations of rampant xenophobia and animal cruelty; outbreaks of terrorism and diplomatic earthquakes have added to their headache. But with Ukraine already taking the horned shape of a scapegoat, the Poles are rubbing their hands – at last, here’s a chance to show the world what this country can do. Those of us living out here are already well aware of Poland’s many attributes, but for many of the invading hordes, this nation remains an unknown entity – a peasant country on the edge of the Arctic Circle. No matter how Poland fares on the pitch, if but a fraction of these global misconceptions are redressed that’ll be victory enough. Of course, three points from Russia will taste sweet as well. So enjoy June, and enjoy the Euros, and please remember to keep abreast of everything going on in the city courtesy of our weekly newsletter. Subscribe for free at: newsletter@ warsawinsider.pl. And finally, the Insider is available on the iPad - download this issue for free at the app store. C’mon England! Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

on the cover You’d never guess what, but we’ve got a distinctly Euro flavored issue this time round. For the full story on all the competing teams, check our bumper feature on page 27. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH TOP KEVIN DEMARIA. BOTTOM ALL COURTESY OF STADIUMS

THE THEATER(S) OF DREAMS

STADION NARODOWY, WARSAW Capacity: 58,500 Cost: zł. 1.75 billion Resembles: A red and white wicker basket. Function: Legia will play their bigger matches here, and the national team will call it home. Madonna and Coldplay are scheduled to play this year as well.

PGE ARENA, GDAŃSK Capacity: 44,000 Cost: zł. 620 million Resembles: A glowing rock of amber. Function: Home to Lechia Gdańsk (av. attendance 17,372). Also a concert venue. The official opening was marked last September with a 2-2 draw played out between Germany and Poland.

STADION MIEJSKI, WROCŁAW Capacity: 44,267 Cost: zł. 730 million Resembles: A Chinese lantern. Function: Home to Śląsk Wrocław (av. attendance 16,994). Also a multi-purpose venue – George Michael headlined here last year, while Vitali Klitschko outgunned Polish challenger Tomasz Adamek here back in September.

STADION MIEJSKI, POZNAŃ Capacity: 43,000 Cost: zł. 713 million Resembles: A normal four-sided football stadium. Function: Home to Lech Poznań (av. attendance 15,781). Traditionally one of Poland’s best supported clubs, this is the one stadium that wasn’t developed from scratch.

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what’s inside

JUNE 2012

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

07 I nsider’s Pick Orange Festival 07 Calendar Music, art and events around town 09 Films Movie openings 10 Museums Dates and shows 41 I nsider’s Pick Bufet Centralny 48 The Luncheonettes Zielnik Cafe 60 Hot Find Belvedere 67 Food Shop Ostra Kuchnia

69 Insider’s Pick Caffee Galeria Sztuki

INfront

FEATURES

News in Brief 27 Euro 2012 Crocodiles in rivers, a killer celebrated, A guide to the stars and the bars to cars in trees and a sculpture of dog watch them droppings... Another normal month in PL 34 Fan Zone 18 Trends Full low-down, plus map Bubble tea 36 City Guide 22 Books 72 hours in Warsaw The Chroniclers 104 Why Warsaw? Fashion designers Olly and Anna 24 Relics of the PRL Retro Polish football Lindal of Reykjavik District Editor-in-chief Art Director Editor Editorial Intern Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Iza Depczyk idepczyk@valkea.com Karolina Kalinowska Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Maria Pięta mpieta@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Bartosz Bajerski Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung David Ingham Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Agnieszka Le Nart

Insider’s Pick The British Bulldog On the Prowl... with The Mayor

Shopping

Children

Lifestyle

81 Insider’s Pick See Me Boutique 85 Insider’s Pick Kosmos Kosmos 89 Insider’s Pick Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej 101 Classifieds 102 Warsaw Map

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2012 Warsaw Insider.

WARSAW INSIDER | JUNE 2012

PHOTOGRAPH BY SHUTTERSTOCK

Nightlife

73 78

Reviews: Orange Warsaw Festival 7 / Dom Spotkań z Historią 11

CULTURE EVENTS 7 / FILM 9 / MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 10

EVENTS THIS MONTH

Insider’s Pick

CONCERT Ladytron DJ Set 1500 m2 do Wynajęcia Club, ul. Solec 18 This Liverpool band mixes electropop and synthpop with new wave, to create music which they call electronic pop. Thus far they have released five studio albums, the most popular one being the Witching Hour, which contained the hit single Destroy Everything You Touch. Tickets from zł. 30, available at www.ticketpro.pl

1-3

FESTIVAL

9 & 10

Orange Warsaw Festival 2011

FESTIVAL

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

Orange Warsaw Festival Pepsi Arena - Legia Warsaw Stadium

lthough held at the same time as Euro 2012, don’t think the Orange Warsaw Festival will be in any way over-shadowed by the football. Deemed one of Warsaw’s hottest events, the festival was first held in 2008 as part of the city’s campaign to land Warsaw the title of Europe’s Capital of Culture 2016. Although the days of free admission are long gone the star studded line-up offsets any cost. This year’s festival will kick off with a performance by De La Soul, the alternative hip hop legends with a CV stretching back 25 years. Nineties success story Garbage will also be appearing, no doubt airing smash hits like Stupid Girl and Only Happy When it Rains. Also gracing the stage are fire starting Prodigy. First surfacing in 1992, the controversial act – fronted by the flamboyant Keith Flint – have conquered global dance floors with tunes like Breathe and Smack my Bitch up. Apparently ’calmer’ and more ’mature’, they can still turn up the heat on stage. Stage space will also occupied by Linkin Park. Mixing aspects of rock, metal, grunge and rap, it’s anthems like Numb, Crawling and What I’ve Done that have earned them a string of MTV and Grammy awards. And, as the Insider went to press, the exceptionally talented Lauren Hill confirmed her appearance on 10 June. (ID) Tickets from zł. 110, available at www.ebilet.pl

Ursynalia - Warsaw Student Festival ul. Nowoursynowska 166 Ursynalia has emerged as one of the biggest events during the series of student festivals (Juwenalia) which start in May. This year the Main stage line-up includes, among others, Limp Bizkit, Slayer, Nightwish, Billy Talent, In Flames, Mastodon, Oedipus and Gojira. Artists performing on the Open Stage number Modestep, Benassi Bros feat. Dhany, Awolnation, George Borowski and DJ Jaco G. Tickets from zł. 30, available at www.ticketpro.pl

1-3

WORKSHOP Tantra Spirit - Sex, Love,

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CULTURE

3&5

OPERA Nabucco – Giuseppe Verdi Teatr Wielki Composed by the thirty-year-old Verdi, this was his third opera, and the first to bring him fame and a place on the top table. Full of harmonious and passionate tunes, the set – designed by Andrzej Kreutz Majewski – promises to be equally impressive.

6, 8, 9, 10 BALLET

Cinderella Teatr Wielki Music by Siergiej Prokofiew and a libretto by Frederick Ashton will take you to the heart of this world-famous fairytale.

CONCERT Pitbull Pl. Zebrań Ludowych (Euro 2012 Fan Zone), Gdańsk The Miami-born rapper, pop singer-songwriter and record producer will be performing for the first time in Poland to mark the launch of the Euro 2012 Gdańsk Fan Zone. Tickets from zł. 85, available at www.ebilet.pl

BALLET

The Queen of Spades Teatr Wielki A libretto based on Alexander Pushkin’s Queen of Spades. Rated as one of the darkest, most effective ballets directed by Mariusz Treliński.

CONCERT

Chambao Sala Kongresowa, PKiN (Pl. Defilad 1) This flamenco chilli band, featuring with the phenomenal vocalist Maria del Mar, was founded in 2001 out in Malaga, Spain. The group mixes flamenco with ethnic and electronic sounds. Tickets from zł. 100, available at www.ebilet.pl

CONCERT ZAZ Sala Kongresowa, PKiN (pl. Defilad 1) The French singer is considered one of the biggest musical discoveries in the past years. Her self-titled debut album ZAZ sold hundreds of thousands copies. Catch her in Poland promoting her latest album Sans Tsu Tsou. Tickets from zł. 130, available at www.ebilet.pl

14, 15, 16, 17

The Beatles Revival Pl. Defilad (Euro 2012 Fan Zone) The Czech band has taken part in numerous worldwide Beatles festivals and is known for impeccable replications of the fab four’s style, image and music. Free admission.

Proxima Club, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99 This will be the American heavymetal band’s first performance in Poland. They debuted in 2006 with the song Knives and Pens. Since then, the band members have changed, although the singer as well as the keyboard player have remained the same through the band’s upward trajectory. Tickets from zł. 49, available at www.ebilet.pl

CONCERT Elvis Presley Revival Pl. Defilad (Euro 2012 Fan Zone) The vice-champion in a competition for the best Elvis double, the Elvis Presley Revival has performed globally in both small events and larger national concerts. Free admission.

CONCERT Black Veil Brides

WARSAW INSIDER | JUNE 2012

18-20

FESTIVAL WrocLove Fest ul. Wyspa Słodowa 1, Wrocław During the festival there will be performances by Chambao, a flamenco star which has been deemed by some as the musical surprise of the 21st century. On the second day of the festival,

WrocLove Fest will be graced by Sinead O’Connor. This will be O’Connor’s first concert in Poland since the release of her latest album How About I Be Me (And You Be You)? On the final day, Wrocław will host Gentleman & The Evolution, Stephen Marley and Mesajah Bethel. Tickets from zł. 60, available at www.ebilet.pl

CONCERT Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds preceded by The Vaccines Pl. Zebrań Ludowych (Euro 2012 Fan Zone), Gdańsk The British rock legend, and former brains behind Oasis, presents his latest project, Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds, at the Gdańsk Fan Zone. The intro act preceding Gallagher’s appearance are The Vaccines, currently rated one of the most popular British indie-rock bands. Tickets from zł. 85, available at www.ebilet.pl

CONCERT Rise Against Park Sowińskiego, ul. Elekcyjna 17 The American punk-rock band’s Warsaw concert is part of the Rock in Summer 2012 event organized in Warsaw by Go Ahead event agency and radio Eska Rock. Rise Against will be promoting their newest album Endgame which premiered in March 2011. Part two of the Rock in Summer 2012 event takes place on August 15 with a performance by Korn. Tickets from zł. 120, available at www. go-ahead.pl, www.ticketpro.pl

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS OR ORGIANIZERS

Spirituality Młodziezowy Dom Kultury, ul. Łazienkowska 7 These tantra workshops for beginners are aimed at aiding in the discovery of the spirit of Tantra through a journey into the depths of love, spirituality and sexuality. The workshops will be lead by world-famous tantra teacher Sarita who has hosted workshops around the globe. She is also the author of many books, such as Divine Sexuality: The Joy of Tantra and Tantric Love: Journey into Sexual and Spiritual Ecstasy. Tickets are priced at zł. 500, and are available from www.tuiteraz.eu

CONCERT ATB, DJ Motiv8 (Black Eyed Peas), Josh Gallahan Pl. Zebrań Ludowych (Euro 2012 Fan Zone), Gdańsk A legend of electronic music, German DJ, musician and music producer Andre Tennenberger (aka ATB) will be performing at the Gdańsk fan zone along with DJ Motiv8 from the Black Eyed Peas and Josh Gallahan. Tickets from zł. 140, available at www.ebilet.pl

CONCERT Duran Duran Rynek Pl. Gołębi (Euro 2012 Fan Zone), Wrocław The best-selling Birmingham band, formed in the late 70s, will be performing in the Wrocław Fan Zone during the Euro 2012. The band will be promoting their 2010 album All You Need is Now, along with a series of their

greatest hits. Tickets from zł. 89, available at www.ebilet.pl

MOVIES OPENING THIS MONTH 1st The Three Stooges (Głupi, głupszy, najgłupszy) Comedy. USA. Dir. Peter Farelly, Bobby Farelly, with Richard Jenkins, Will Sasso, Sofia Vergara, Stephen Collins

CONCERT The Cranberries Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A After a seven-year hiatus, the Irish band is back, with their newest album Roses. Dolores O’Riordan, Noel Hogan, Mike Hogan and Fergal Lawler will be performing in Poland, as part of their world tour promoting Roses. The band, founded in 1989, is best known for hits like Zombie, Linger and Just My Imagination. Tickets from zł. 150, available at www. ticketpro.pl

Snow White and the Huntsman (Królewna Śnieżka i Łowca) Adventure/Fantasy/Drama. USA. Dir. Rupert Sanders, with Charlize Theron, Kristen Stewart, Chris Hemsworth, Eddie Izzard Project Nim (Projekt Nim) Documentary. UK, USA. Dir. James Marsh

8th Chernobyl Diaries Horror. USA. Dir. Bradley Parker, with Jesse McCartney, Jonathan Sadowski, Olivia Dudley

15th Valhalla Rising (Valhalla: Mroczny Wojownik) Action/Drama. Denmark, UK. Dir. Nicolas Winding Refn, with Mads Mikkelsen, Gary Lewis, Jamie Sives

The Lukcy One (Szczęściarz) Drama. USA. Dir. Scott Hicks, with Zac Efron, Taylor Schilling, Blythe Danner

22nd Extremely Loud & Incredibly Close (Strasznie głośno, niesamowicie blisko) Drama. USA. Dir. Stephen Daldry, with Sandra Bullock, Tom Hanks, Thomas Horn, Viola Davis What to Expect When You’re Expecting (Jak urodzić i nie zwariować) Comedy/Romance/Drama. USA. Dir. Kirk Jones, with Cameron Diaz, Elizabeth Banks, Jennifer Lopez, Chace Crawford Cosmopolis Thriller/Drama. France, Portugal, Canada, Italy. Dir. David Cronenberg, with Robert Pattinson, Juliette Binoche, Samantha Morton

29th The Five-Year Engagement (Jeszcze dłuższe zaręczyny) Rom-Com. USA. Dir. Nicholas Stoller, with Emily Blunt, Jason Segel

ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC, GET ON THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL OFFER. Contact: +48 22 572 65 65 www.avis.pl

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CULTURE MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place. Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. 2 June: Speaker’s Corner: Mark J. Post of Eindhoven University discusses biotechnology from 4 p.m. Also, throughout June there’ll be numerous lab (e.g. the secret of soap bubbles) and family workshops incorporating tests, experiments and hands on learning: check their web for details. CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Flor Garduno, for instance). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Till 19 August: Harun Farocki, a retrospective film exhibition. Till 26 August: Figures from the New World, sculpture

exhibition. 3 June: The City of Good Energy – Occupy Art!, an outdoor exhibition ‘occupying a public space’ and aiming to ‘evoke positive, peaceful emotions’. 5 June: My Very Own Cinema, a retrospective exhibition featuring the multimedia works of Józef Robakowski, one of the leading neo avant garde artists of the 60s and 70s. Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums was set to reopen in late May, so watch this space. If past trips are anything to go by, expect a comprehensive and often fascinating display telling the no-holds barred story of Warsaw. In the meantime, the ground floor cinema is already open – playing a 20 minute film titled We Will Remember, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw. The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum.pl Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip

tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them his pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. 1 June: Children’s Day, workshops and competitions specifically aimed at children. The main event takes place at the Żelazowa Wola branch of the museum, with a smaller happening in the central museum. The Great Football Exhibition Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 Aside from a seemingly random collection of shirts, pennants and scarves, the ‘great’ exhibition features such enigmatic plunder as ‘a plate with engraved signatures’, ‘a cup from the fans of Cambridge’, and, this is the best bit, ‘a shoe from the Croatian F.A., 2008’. No further explanations, nothing. Mystifying treasures aside, there’s a foosball table and a scattering of X-Box machines, not all of which are broken. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts,

pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Ongoing: an exhibition titled Legia on the Continent and a display of letters written to Kazimierz Deyna by his fans. Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl A very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide the visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Mirosław Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. 2 June – 19 August: New National Art: this exhibition focuses on the study of nationalpatriotic visual culture in Poland. National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. More info next issue. The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org A complete departure from the stuff museums Poland is famed for, this long awaited projects brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which dating from the 60s and 70s. Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty

WARSAW INSIDER | JUNE 2012

of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated, works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. 2 June, 23rd International Poster Biennale. The four categories inc. social, cultural and advertising posters, as well as ‘golden debut’. View the works not only at the Poster Museums, but also in other Warsaw cultural spots – check their web for the full and comprehensive schedule.

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk. Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. 5 June – 26 August: Art Everywhere: showcasing the history of the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw, this exhibition aims to highlight that art really can be found everywhere – in shop displays, on matchboxes, at home etc.

Insider’s Pick Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl A huge Insider favorite, the History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent photographic exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘Rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist Architecture.’ Usually these don’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse, but even so the quality and rarity of the images alone make this a must visit. Possibly the most undervalued cultural institute in Warsaw, this month visitors have a triple whammy of exhibitions to view. Running till 10 June: Walking the Earth: 50 Years of Press Photography by Aleksander Jałosiński. Showcasing 150 photos taken between 1957 and 2007, Jałosiński’s collection features an intriguing glimpse at life in the PRL, and is by no means low on humor (e.g. a cow leaning through a window while taking a sniff at Polityka magazine). The author’s accompanying blurbs prove equally illuminating. Following the PRL focus, Warsaw Frenzy by Irena Jarosińska runs until 30 June, and is a stonking collection of avant garde magazine photography from the 50s and 60s. For something totally different, then check out the First Photographs of Krakowskie Przedmiesćie by Karol Beyer, ongoing until 23 September. Taken by Warsaw’s first professional photographer between 1857 and 1867, Beyer’s beautiful images have been set up in the small square opposite the Bristol Hotel, and provide a marvelous insight into local 19th century life. And while this trio of exhibits steal the thunder, don’t overlook the bookshop inside DSH – while most titles are in the native tongue, there’s a wealth of photography books covering a variety of subjects and eras.

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A graduate of the prestigous Westminster College London, Botswanan born Joseph Seeletso needs little introduction. A frequent fixture on Good Morning TVN, the celebrity chef opened Joseph’s last year, thereby achieving his ambition of having his own private space to create “heavenly combinations” of meals and wine. Set in a former warehouse, the cosmopolitan Joseph’s is the effortless epitome of ‘loft cool’, and has taken Warsaw by storm with a non-standard menu that reflects Chef Seeletso’s creativity. And it’s not just the level of Polish gastronomy that has been raised with the success of Joseph’s. Wine plays an equally key role, with sommelier Rafał Kiś on hand to aid with your wine choice. • A MASTERFUL MENU CREATED BY CHEF JOSEPH • COOKERY CLASSES WITH JOSEPH SEELETSO • 700 WINE LABELS • WINE TASTING CLASSES WITH A QUALIFIED SOMMELIER • ON-SITE SHOP • LOYALTY PROGRAM Duchnicka 3 Street 01-796, Warszawa mob. 48 501 491 396, tel. 48 22 320 2988 duchnicka@josephwinebar.pl www.kuchniajozka.pl www.josephwinebar.pl

INFRONT ARCHITECTURE 20 / ART 14 / BOOKS 22 / COMMUNITY 14 / LOCAL INTEREST 16 / PRL 24 / RANT 17 / TOURISM 13 / TRANSPORTATION 17 / TRENDS 18

TOURISM

PHOTOGRAPH WIKICOMMONS

Ghost Town Re-Born?

Long before Egypt and Turkey became the default destinations for Poles, scope for holiday adventure was curtailed by financial reality and strict travel restrictions. If you were lucky, a road trip to Bulgaria was the order of the day, with everything but the family chicken squashed inside a rattling Maluch for a cross-country National Lampoon’s-style trip. If you were luckier still, you’d have found yourself invited to one of the state-sponsored resorts – places like Kozubnik close to Bielsko-Biała. Built in 1968, the seven hectare plot was a sort of Polish Ibiza, and one only open to communist dignitaries and other card carrying working class heroes on whom the system smiled – Brezhnev’s son is reported to have been a visitor. Featuring eleven separate hotels, three indoor swimming pools – at a time when such facilities were practically unheard of in Poland – a sauna, beauty salon and a nightclub called Piekiełko (Hell), a pass to Kozubnik was a much envied thing. At its peak, in 1987, an estimated 30,000 Poles checked in for this rare taste of high times. But the collapse of communism saw its days numbered, and with travel sanctions lifted Kozubnik soon fell to ruin. In recent times it’s become an abandoned ghost town, wrecked by vandals and eaten by the forests that surround it. But hold press! A recent announcement by the suits at Sawa Apartments has revealed plans to raise this zombie and turn it into an exclusive holiday complex starring a hotel, apartments and an aqua-park. Work is slated to conclude in 2016, by which time Sawa hope to reinvent Kozubnik as ‘the Polish Davos’. facebook.com/warsawinsider

INFRONT

BRIEFING

Airport Ready for Take-off Fans of low cost carriers are celebrating news that the longawaited overhaul of Modlin Airport is coming to a close. Scheduled to open in July the former military airfield will serve as a hub for Wizz and Ryan Air, and will handle shorthaul and medium range international flights, as well as domestic routes. An estimated two million passengers will pass through the airport per year, filling the budget airline void created by the closure of Warsaw’s Etiuda terminal in 2009. COMMUNITY

Croaked Croc Found in Warta A Polish fisherman reeled in an unlikely catch from the River Warta recently when he found a one-and-a-half-metre long Nile crocodile on the end of his line. Luckily for 65 year old Kazimierz Kaczor the cold-blooded predator was already dead, with experts, unsure of where it came from, saying it was only very recently deceased. “The world has gone mad when you can find a crocodile in the Warta,” said a startled Mr Kaczor. The creature, which can grow to six meters in length, is believed to have been unleashed onto the public by a private enthusiast after it had grown too large for comfort.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

ART

Norway Killer in Warsaw A poster depicting Norwegian mass murderer Anders Breivik has kicked up a storm of controversy in the capital after it was put on display outside the city’s iconic Palace of Culture. The art work, which show’s a pixelated image of Breivik, was created to promote "Who killed Alone Ivanovna," a play inspired by Dostoevsky’s “Crime and Punishment” which was shown at the Palace’s Dramatic Theatre. While the poster debuted in February, it’s only since the Norwegian nutter has gone on trial that his image has provoked protest. “Negative attitudes surrounding historical figures should not mean they should be censored,” said theatre rep Katarzyna Szustow by way of excuse.

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT, COURTESY OF MODLIN AIRPORT, KEVIN DEMARIA, SHUTTERSTOCK

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Apartments Puławska 111 in Old Mokotów, Warsaw Apartamenty Puławska 111 dzielnica Stary Mokotów - Warszawa Cosy building located in well-known district of Warsaw – Old Mokotów. In the immediate neighbourhood, secluded Arkadia Park and Królikarnia Palace from XVIII century. Remarkable location allows you to take full advantage of the delights of the Park and infrastructure of a city centre. Kameralny budynek, zlokalizowany w prestiżowej, pełnej zieleni, dzielnicy Warszawy - Stary Mokotów. Sąsiadujący z parkiem Arkadia i XVIII-wiecznym Pałacem Królikarnia. Niepowtarzalna lokalizacja umożliwiająca korzystanie z uroków zielonego parku oraz pełnej infrastruktury centrum stolicy. Air-conditioned, higher standard apartments: height of 2.75m; the intelligent home system; widescreen wooden windows (mute 40 dB); beautiful finishing in the common spaces, lobby with a reception and a concierge services, round-the-clock security, underground parking. Top floor – Penthouses with outstanding view of Warsaw, extending from the huge terraces. Klimatyzowane Apartamenty o podwyższonym standardzie: wysokość od 2.75; instalacja inteligentnego budynku na poziomie lokalu, panoramiczne drewniane okna (wyciszenie 40 dB); pięknie wykończone części wspólne, reprezentacyjne lobby wraz z recepcją i usługami concierge, garaż podziemny, ograniczony dostęp do budynku, ochrona 24h. Ostatnie piętro - strefa Apartamentów typu Penthouse z pięknym widokiem na Warszawę, rozciągającym się z tarasów o powierzchni kilkudziesięciu metrów.

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INFRONT

BRIEFING LOCAL INTEREST

Wood You Believe it? Inventive locals in the village of Lubczyna, NorthWest Poland, took the law in to their own hands last month to teach a young boy racer a lesson or two about bad driving. Sick of 24 year old Zbiegniew Filo driving round town like a maniac some anonymous villagers hoisted his car into a willow tree far above any local roads. Cocky Filo reacted by telling the press “I get the message, but I think it was a bit harsh.”

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

TRANSPORTATION

Streets Behind RANT

Dirty Protest Polish rapper Ĺ ukasz Rostkowski, a.k.a. L.U.C, has unveiled a controversial new statue in his home town of WrocĹ&#x201A;aw to try and teach locals to clean up after their pet pooches. His sculpture, which is a massive replica of a pile of dog mess, is currently residing on a piece of grass in the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dominican Square, with the rapper hoping the revolting sight will spark a debate that addresses a problem currently blighting all Polish cities.

Warsaw city authorities have taken the unfathomable decision to close the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ul. MarszaĹ&#x201A;kowska from May until September, a step which has created traffic chaos and caused the central thoroughfare to look like itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s had a bomb dropped on it. With hundreds of thousands of football fans and tourists here this June it looks like a major PR disaster for the suits in the Town Hall.

JIMMY BRADLEYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 7+( %(67 ,5,6+ %$5 ,1 :$56$:

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD FROM LEFT, WIKICOMMONS, Ĺ UKASZ GAWRONSKI, KEVIN DEMARIA

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INFRONT

TRENDS

BY KIT F. CHUNG

Bubble Tea Time

f you belong to the natural food camp, then Bubbleology’s laboratory-inspired approach to technicolor tea-making might at first set off panic bells. However, as you experiment with the various plastic pitchers it becomes apparent there’s no offensive chemical aftertaste. And it’s delicious. “This is real bubble tea,” beams co-owner Jurek Dytkiewicz, and that’s not just his opinion. Taiwanese trade representatives were invited to test Bubbleology’s mettle, with the end result being an enthusiastic endorsement. A London-based franchise, Bubbleology comply with strict guidelines to ensure quality and consistency; the tapioca bubbles which are the signature of the rainbow colored teas are made locally, while the flavoured jellies are imported from Taiwan.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Though getting the lion share of the limelight, Bubbleology isn’t the first to bring colourful tea with chewy bits to Poland. Cup and Go hit the scene a few days earlier. Opened by Chi, a Vietnamese student at the Warsaw School of Economics, her niche is in mixing the drink as it is done on the streets of Vietnam. That means jasmine tea plus coconut milk and tapioca pellets. For years, she says, the Vietnamese community has talked about setting up bubble tea stations in Warsaw, and with the success of these pioneering ventures, you can expect more on their way over the summer.

BUBBLE TEA CAFE

Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26 Cup & Go ul. Przeskok 2

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

First concocted in Taiwan back in the 80s, the bubble tea phenomenon has finally come to roost in Warsaw.

INFRONT

ARCHITECTURE

BY ALEX WEBBER

A Towering Inferno

enturies old she might be, but it’s only recently Warsaw appears to have entered an awkward adolescence – growing taller in spurts and starts. Yet even before the hormonal addition of glass corporate fortresses, Warsaw has had an uneven skyline. The sixties and seventies saw the city embrace the global trend for gangly concrete constructions, and before that, locals had the Palace of Culture to block out the sun. Even so, skyscrapers here predate that. While not the first (for that honor, step forward PASTa on Zielna 39), the Prudential Tower (Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9) is certainly one of the most important. Unveiled in 1934 following three years of graft, the Art Deco building measured 69 meters (16 floors), instantly installing it as the second tallest tower in Europe. Custom built for the Prudential insurance group, the skyscraper was the work of engineer Marcin Weinfeld and made use of two million bricks, 2,000 tons of concrete and 1,500 tons of steel. Crowning its peak, a prototype TV transmitter was added in 1938, thereby furthering the Prudential’s rising stock as a champion of innovation. Clearly, this was a building of some importance, and as such it became a focus of fierce fighting during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Captured by Polish forces on Day 1 of the battle, the photograph of the Polish flag flying from the

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

transmitter is regarded as one of the iconic images of the conflict. Aside from its obvious strategic significance, that the Prudential was in Polish hands served to considerably inflate local morale. Desperate to reclaim it, the Germans battered the tower with over 1,000 shells – over the course of the rebellion, it’s estimated a bullet zinged off the brickwork every eight minutes. Even so, it remained in Polish hands till the grim surrender 63 days later. Although racked and ruined by gunfire, the sturdy steel skeleton stubbornly refused to collapse. Following the war Weinfeld – who had survived a stint in Dachau concentration camp – was once more called in to resurrect his baby. Over 9,000 tons of debris were removed from the interior, and the building was reopened as the Hotel Warszawa in 1954. Regarded as state-of-the-art when it was launched, by the time the Iron Curtain fell the Warszawa had become something of a classic Eastern Bloc hotel with dusty, darkened corridors and gargoyle faced prostitutes lurking in the lobby. Closed in 2003, the building was finally sold to the Likus brothers six years on. Best known for their boutique hotels (e.g. the Stary in Kraków, where the England team will lodge this summer) and department stores (Warsaw’s luxury Vitkac mall on Bracka), work is slowly underway to once more raise Prudential from the dead.

PHOTOGRAPH LEFT WIKICOMMONS, RIGHT KEVIN DEMARIA

With the imminent opening of Złota 44 tower set to lend the Warsaw skyline a new focal point, the Insider looks back to the days when 16 floors constituted a miracle of design.

STYLE AND ELEGANCE

COMFORT AND SAFETY

IN THE HEART OF THE CITY

CLOSENESS OF HISTORY

PRESTIGIOUS APARTMENTS IN THE CITY CENTER

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INFRONT

BOOKS

BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Zofia Chomętowska: Street trade, a market on Poznańska Street

Maria Chrząszczowa: Erjot Fishmonger's Shop

Zofia Chomętowska: One of seven notebooks in which Chomętowska organised her entire Warsaw archive

Maria Chrząszczowa: Left, view of the Vistula from Old Town Market Square. Right, The Old Town Market, the Kołłątaj side

The Chroniclers

he book opens with a beautiful editing job for the reader, a gift of photo pairings shot of the same broken building or iron gate by each different photographer. This redundency in subject matter gives the feeling that both photographers scowered the post-war landscape for the same interesting object to capture succesfully; teleporting back in time would only lead you to shoot the same thing. The book is divided in to seven focuses of the city: three looks at Śródmieście, Plac Trzech Krzyży, Muranów, Old

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Town and the bridges of Warsaw. An amazing glimpse into the notebooks created by Zofia Chomętowska from 1979 while living Argentina, and an album created in the 1950s by Maria Chrząszczowa, perfectly bookend the stong opener. You don't need a 3D movie to feel the ruins of Warsaw, just a long sit down with this book will suffice. Text in both Polish and English, it is a perfect gift for your Polish friends and yourself! Available for zł. 65 at Dom Spotkań z Historią or online at www.archeologiafotografii.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Two women photographers, Zofia Chomętowska and Maria Chrząszczowa, set out to document Warsaw between 1945-46, often photographing the same thing from a different perspective – and sometimes each other. This beautfully designed book takes you on a walk through post war Warsaw through both of their eyes comparitively.

THE MOST LUXURIOUS

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Residence Opera is a luxury development on NiecaĹ&#x201A;a Street in Warsaw. Located by the pond of the Baroque Saxon Gardens and on the doorstep of the Polish National Opera House. True art will enter your life at Residence Opera.

Each floor features just two apartments, each enjoying magnificent views over the lush Saxon Gardens. The pond, fountain and tree-lined Avenues are framed with a silhouette of the city centre. We welcome you to this unique place in Warsaw.

www.domdevelopment.com.pl, tel. (+48) 604 164 564, (+48 22) 403 01 38

INFRONT

PRL PAGE (’52-’89)

HISTORY

World Cup 74

A classic World Cup, 1974 heralded the tournament’s first red card, a new look trophy and the concept of ‘total football’. It also signaled the arrival of the Polish national team. Poland entered the competition as an unknown quantity, and while they had edged out England in the qualifiers that result was largely seen as a fluke. It wasn’t. Their first match saw a thrilling 3-2 triumph over Argentina, and their class was emphasized the following game courtesy of a 7-0 mauling of a shell shocked Haiti. Italy were dispatched 2-1, and Sweden and Yugoslavia were next to the sword. Poland then found themselves facing the hosts, West Germany, with a place in the final at stake. Torrential rain had left the pitch waterlogged, and in spite of Polish protests, the Austrian referee insisted the match go ahead. Poland’s fast moving, cavalier game was useless in such conditions, and the Poles crashed out to a 76th minute Gerd Muller goal. Poland signed off on a high, however, with Grzegorz Lato’s seventh goal of the tournament winning him the Golden Boot, and sealing a third place, 1-0 win over Brazil. The golden era of Polish football had begun...

JAN TOMASZEWSKI

A.k.a. ‘The Man Who Stopped England’. Keeper Jan Tomaszewski is commonly remembered for an epic performance in ’73, when he pulled off a string of superhuman saves to book Poland a place at the ’74 World Cup at the expense of England. Labelled a ‘clown’ by Brian Clough on the eve of the match, Tomaszewski’s name remains bitterly etched in the memory of every Englishman. He continued to serve as Poland’s number one for many years, and has since carved a niche as a controversial commentator and politician for PiS. More recently, tabloid allegations suggest Tomaszewski may have worked as a communist agent during his footballing heyday.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

KAZIMIERZ DEYNA

Nicknamed rogal (croissant) on account of his bendy shots, Deyna stands out, arguably, as Poland’s greatest ever talent. Top scorer in the ’72 Olympics, his contribution in the ’74 World Cup campaign saw him voted third in the European Footballer of the Year awards. Heavily courted by Real Madrid, Deyna eventually secured his dream move abroad in ’78 when he signed for Man City. While his spell at Maine Road was marred by injury, the former Legia hero earned cult status thanks to a catalogue of match winning outings. A move to San Diego beckoned in the 80s, and it was in America that the maverick playmaker was tragically killed in a car crash.

ZBIGNIEW BONIEK

The only Polish player picked by Pele in his list of ‘125 Greatest Living Footballers’. Considered one of the best dribblers of the era, Boniek was transferred to Juventus from Widzew Łódź in 1982, whereupon he became a firm hit with the fans of Italy’s biggest club. Dubbed bello di note (beauty of the night), on account of his knack of excelling during evening games, Boniek inspired Poland to third in the ’82 World Cup, and helped lead Juve to the Cup Winners’ Cup and European Cup. As a coach Boniek has fared less successfully, and his managerial career includes stints at minor Italian sides, and a disastrous spell with Poland – his reign reaching a nadir with a 1-0 reverse at home to Latvia.

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM LEFT: AGENCJA FORUM(2), KEVIN DEMARIA

Polish Footballing Greats

TOUR

Trip to the Past

There’s more to Warsaw this summer than the football, the stadium and that European Championships. Discover the hidden side of town on this tour with a twist. Journey to Warsaw’s hidden nooks in an immaculately preserved Fiat 125p: yep, that’s exactly what Poland’s footballers once drove. Whether it’s hidden pre-war remains, or obscure traces of Communism, Warsaw Behind the Scenes lifts the lid on the city’s deepest secrets!

ARCHITECTURE

The Stadium Stadion Naradowy takes center stage this summer, but before you take your seat at this 21st century arena, spare a thought for what came before. Built atop of vast volumes of battle rubble, Stadion Dziesięciolecia opened in 1955 to coincide with the tenth anniversary of People’s Poland. The oval shaped open arena was established as the national stadium, with the last international match played in 1983 – a draw against Finland. The same year Pope John Paul II held mass here for 100,000 people. Following the fall of communism the overgrown stadium developed into one of Europe’s great outdoor bazaars, with all sorts of dubious goods traded for hard cash. Today, nothing remains of the original structure aside from a statue of three relay racers poised for glory.

For more info on your personalized tour check: www.warsawscenes.com, tel. +48 605 278 289

Seta META Galareta –

“Feel the atmosphere of the PRL” Relive the atmopshere of the PRL at our two venues, enjoying an authentic menu of tatar, śledzik, flaki and bigos – chased, of course, with vodka and beer. Find that and more in our downtown Seta META Galareta restaurants. With a classic menu designed by celebrity chef Robert Sowa, it's the perfect place to visit for a pre-party, after party or THE party! Visit us to feel the amazing atmosphere of the PRL. ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21 Open 11:00-6:00

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Shopping mall: Mon – Sat: 10.00–21.00, Sun: 10.00–20.00 Carrefour: Mon – Sat: 8.30–22.00, Sun: 9.00–21.00 Pure Fitness: Mon – Fri: 6.30–22.30, Sat: 8.00–21.00, Sun: 8.00–20.00 Multikino (cinema): Mon – Sun: 10.00–00.30

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SPORT

M305035-TablPleksa-610x610.indd 1

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

10-02-12 11:00

UP FOR THE CUP EURO 2012

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

The waiting is over, and the time for heroes and villains is upon us. On 8 June Poland ceases work for a month with all eyes focused on Euro 2012. Without further ado, the Warsaw Insider presents its dedicated rundown of who to watch and where to watch themâ&#x20AC;Ś BY DAVE INGHAM & ALEX WEBBER

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GROUP A

THE CZECH REPUBLIC

OVERVIEW A series of underwhelming performances saw the team come within a whisker of being bumped into touch during the qualifying stages, and only a play-off triumph over Montenegro saved their trousers falling down. But keeper Petr Cech, while no longer an invincible force, will add confidence to a solid backline, and the creaking creativity of Tomas Rosicky always promises to pose problems. With a healthy traveling support expected to make the short journey north, making it out of the group is a realistic target. STAR MAN Club scouts will be watching Tomas Necid. Now recovered from a serious knee injury, the gangling striker has been tracked by some of Europe’s top clubs – in a side that looks blunt upfront, his goals will be key. WHERE TO WATCH U Szwejka (Pl. Konstytucji 1) / Czeska Baszta (Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego). Prague street signs and pictures of the simpleton Good Soldier Szwejk adorn U Szwejka. Alternatively, head to Czeska Baszta to roar through 80+ brands of import lager. THE POLISH CONNECTION In 1968 accountant Ryszard Siwiec set himself ablaze at Warsaw’s 10th Anniversary Stadium (the site of today’s national arena) to protest the Soviet Union’s invasion of the Czech Republic. DID YOU KNOW? No other European country comes close to topping the Czechs beer consumption – so, probably handy that this little republic has the highest hospital bed/ per person ratio in the EU.

GREECE

OVERVIEW The Greeks have come a long way since their surprise triumph in Portugal, 2004, unfortunately for them, it’s been the wrong way. Faring dismally in their last international tournaments, here’s a side lacking charisma, flair and penetration – much like their 2004 squad, in fact. The omens don’t bode well for this side, but Fernando Santos’ team will be encouraged by a table topping qualifying campaign that included a home victory against the Croats. Defence remains their strength, and unlocking it could well present a stern test for the other sides in Group A. But any hopes Greece harbor of adding to their trophy haul are reflected by the odds being offered by the bookies. STAR MAN This Greece side will play as a unit, not as individuals, and it’s hard to see many teams breaching their watertight back four. Even so, most pundits agree, if there are to be flashes of brilliance they’re liable to come from winger Sotiris Ninis, a player once linked with Man Utd. WHERE TO WATCH There’s a raft of Greek restaurants in Warsaw, but few match Tawerna Patris in terms of atmosphere. THE POLISH CONNECTION Over 12,000 Greeks fled to Poland during and after the Greek Civil War in the 1940s, with the Polish government settling the majority in the town of Zgorzelec.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

DID YOU KNOW? When it was first penned in 1823, the Greek national anthem contained a staggering 158 stanzas. Keep to the short version this summer, please.

POLAND

OVERVIEW Most fans would be happy to see Poland qualify from the groups and avoid a spanking in the next round. With no recent competitive games to judge them on, their record in friendlies has included defeat against Lithuania and victory over Argentina – go figure. Head coach Franciszek Smuda needs to instill a level of consistency, and hope his team of international journeymen gel once the whistle sounds. Gifted the easiest group of the lot, anything less than a QF berth will be viewed as a disgrace. STAR MAN All eyes are on striker Robert Lewandowski, regarded as Poland’s best player for a generation. WHERE TO WATCH Tricky one. Expect everywhere and anywhere to be mobbed with face painted Poles tooting into plastic trumpets: the fan zone, the pub, your neighbor’s shed. For the seminal patriotic Polish experience, hit Łazienkowska 3 – the Legia Warszawa pub. DID YOU KNOW? Better known for dark, chilly winters, Poland is also home to one of Europe’s last surviving deserts: Pustynia Błędowska. German General Rommel was so impressed by ‘the Polish Sahara’ he chose to train his desert troops out here.

RUSSIA

OVERVIEW Russia were the surprise package of Euro 2008, advancing to the semis having played some thrilling football. Since then the talismanic Andrey Arshavin has suffered a catastrophic loss of form, yet even so the russkies should have enough in the tank to make it through a weak group. From there they’ll need to be rolling double six – with Italy or Spain as likely opponents in the second stage, they’ll need the Gods on their side. STAR MAN No matter what kind of shift Andrey Arshavin puts in, 21 year old playmaker Alan Dzagoev is tipped to outshine him. WHERE TO WATCH The Russians are rumored to be setting up their own fan zone in Pole Mokotowskie, but if that doesn’t come to fruition then head to folksy Babooshka for a stiff shot of vodka. THE POLISH CONNECTION Most Poniatowskiego, the bridge fans cross to reach Stadion Naradowy, was originally named after Tsar Nicholas II. In less than 100 years this piece of Russian imperialism has burnt down once, collapsed another time, and been blown up twice. DID YOU KNOW? Catherine the Great was so enraged to discover she had dandruff she imprisoned her hairdresser for three years in an iron cage.

DENMARK

OVERVIEW Denmark start the tournament as rank outsiders, with some bookmakers slapping odds of 100-1 on them. Drawn in a particularly scary Group of Death, not even the optimists are touching this lot, and the subsequent lack of pressure could act in their favor. Even so, it takes the imagination of a nutcase to picture the Danes squeezing through Group B. STAR MAN Nicklas Bendtner has long proclaimed his greatness, but he’s kidding no-one. If Denmark are to do well they’ll need youngster Christian Eriksen firing on all cylinders. WHERE TO WATCH Poor Denmark. In a city full of niche bars and restaurants, only the Danes lack a place to call home. THE POLISH CONNECTION You know that little mermaid that sits in Copenhagen harbor? Well, according to some legends, she’s the blood sister of Warsaw’s own syrenka. DID YOU KNOW? Calling all crooks – escaping from a Danish prison is not illegal.

OVERVIEW Germany have undergone a remarkable transformation in recent years: from the team everyone loves to hate, to the team everyone loves… to love. Gone is the methodical, mechanical approach of old, replaced instead by a slick passing game that has seen them installed as second favorites. Joachim Low has a wealth of talent to choose from – as well as a lethal front line – and ze Germans are sure to, once again, enjoy a productive campaign. STAR MAN The 2010 World Cup launched Mesut Ozil as a global superstar; he enters the Euros on the back of a phenomenal season with Real Madrid. WHERE TO WATCH Adler (Mokotowska 69) is better known as a bit of a golden oldies Bavarian themed eatery – their takings will soar this summer. THE POLISH CONNECTION In the words of Basil Fawlty: “don’t mention the war.” So we won’t. Instead, as Poland struggle to breach defences this summer, their fans will wonder would could have been had Polish born strikers Miroslav Klose and Lucas Podolski opted to represent their country of birth ahead of that country next door. DID YOU KNOW? With over 400 to pick from, Germany has more zoos than any other country in the world.

HOLLAND

OVERVIEW The neutrals favorite. Holland bring with them a rich reputation for gung ho football, dressing room feuds and eccentric support – and without fail, viewers can look forward to several raunchy crowd shots of blond bombshells shaking their bits and boobs. While Bert van

PORTUGAL

OVERVIEW Which Portugal will turn up? The one that stuttered to a 4-4 home draw against Cyprus, or the one that tonked Bosnia 6-2. Mercurial at the best of times, Portugal are capable of scintillating football, but will require big performances from their big players – of which they have many. Still smarting from surrendering the final in 2004, this flair side has developed fast under Paulo Bento, but will need to learn to box clever against the others in this group. STAR MAN Cristiano Ronaldo has been devastating for Real Madrid this season, and should he replicate his club form Portugal have a chance to advance. WHERE TO WATCH Warsaw’s Portuguese ex-pats will be gathering at Portucale (Merliniego 2). Wannabe Ronaldo’s can practice their diving in the Aqua Park close by. THE POLISH CONNECTION According to one recent study, Portuguese resident/explorer Christopher Columbus wasn’t of Italian extraction, but actually the son of Władysław III, the exiled King of Poland. DID YOU KNOW? Portugal whacked down €600 million delivering ten stadiums for Euro 2004, a figure not far off the zł. 1.75 billion spent on Warsaw’s Stadion Naradowy.

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GROUP B

GERMANY

Marwijk has introduced a more businesslike approach to Dutch football, they still look irresistible going forward: with a side boasting Sneijder, Robben, Hunterlaar and Van Persie, we’re looking for plenty of thrills and spills to come from this lot, not to say a blood and thunder performance against arch-rivals Germany. STAR MAN Robin van Persie has been outstanding for Arsenal, and he’ll be looking to atone for a quiet World Cup with a couple of deadly displays. WHERE TO WATCH The diminutive Wiatraki (Warecka 8) regularly holds mixers for Dutch ex-pats and will hit fever pitch this summer. THE POLISH CONNECTION Art dealer Hendrick Uylenburgh, who many credit for developing Rembrandt’s career, was raised in Kraków. DID YOU KNOW? Blame the Dutch for creating reality nightmare Big Brother.

GROUP C

SPAIN

OVERVIEW On paper the current European Championship and World Cup holders have the strongest squad in the whole tournament with a team packed full of outstanding players. In fact manager Vicente del Bosque's biggest worry may be actually trying to pick a starting midfield from a talent pool including the likes of Fàbregas, Alonso, Xavi, Busquets, Silva, Iniesta and Mata. And with Chelsea's Fernando Torres finally back among the goals and regaining confidence it would be foolish to bet against the Spaniards going far once again this year. But as no team has ever managed to retain the Henri Delaunay Trophy, it appears that history is against them. STAR MAN A difficult choice but Barcelona’s little genius Xavi just pips it for his perfect passing ability. WHERE TO WATCH Tapa y Toro (ul. Złota 59). With a location next to the fan zone, and a great outdoor area, it’ll be nothing less than packed. THE POLISH CONNECTION 13 Polish footballers have played in Spain’s top division La Liga, the last of which was goalkeeper Jerzy Dudek who warmed the bench at Real Madrid for four seasons. DID YOU KNOW? Spain has the highest number of coffee shops, bars and restaurants in the European Union, with around 350,000.

ITALY

OVERVIEW Since winning the tournament back in 1968 the Azzuri have only reached one final, Euro 2000, when they lost out to a golden goal by France's David Trezeguet. This time around the Italians are something of an unknown quantity, with a distinct lack of superstars in their tournament squad. In qualifying they scored 20 goals and conceded just two in 10 games to sail through to the final stages. But, in a group that contained teams such as Estonia, Slovenia and Northern Ireland it was only to be expected. However, with the right blend of youth and experience, plus the unpredictable talent of madcap striker Mario Balotelli in the camp to ease the boredom on off days, Italy could potentially go far this time around. Unlikely to win the whole thing but they have every chance of reaching the semis. STAR MAN Despite a chequered history AC Milan’s Antonio Cassano remains a genuine talent and currently offers Italy’s biggest goalscoring threat. WHERE TO WATCH Ristorante San Lorenzo (Al. Jana Pawła II 36). Upstairs it’s a swank eatery. The café downstairs though is popular with noisy Italians cheering the football. THE POLISH CONNECTION Italian Princess Bona Sforza became Queen of Poland in 1518 after she married King Zygmunt I. She did a runner after poisoning her sons GF, and her ghost now haunts Czersk Castle nearby. DID YOU KNOW? Football supporters in Italy are called Tifosi, which translates as “carriers of typhus.”

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

REPUBLIC OF IRELAND

OVERVIEW Ireland have one huge advantage over the other teams in Group C: their fans. Onlookers can expect the Irish support to take over Poznań and Gdańsk this June as the Boys in Green make their first European Championships since 1988. Sensible analysis suggests that the group’s three other teams may have too much for this Irish side but with a backbone of experienced players, plus manager Giovanni Trapattoni at the helm, you can never say never. If they can get a positive result against Croatia in their opener then expect Irish optimism to go through the roof. STAR MAN In LA Galaxy striker Robbie Keane Ireland have a man who knows where the back of the net is at international level. If he fails to score expect Ireland fans to be flying back home after the group stages. WHERE TO WATCH Bradleys (ul. Sienna 39) remains the No. 1 Irish pub in town. It’ll be mad. THE POLISH CONNECTION Polish is the most commonly spoken foreign language in Ireland according to the country’s 2011 census. DID YOU KNOW? Legendary Thin Lizzy lead singer and hell-raiser Phil Lynott was raised in Dublin and a life-sized bronze statue of the musician was unveiled in the city in 2005.

CROATIA

OVERVIEW Famed for their skilful play and fanatical fans Croatia always add a bit of excitement to any major international tournament. Currently led by a chain smoking, guitar playing, law graduate – former Premier League defender Slaven Bilic – the Croats have a decent record in the European Championships since first being accepted into UEFA back in 1993. This time around they will do well to match their two quarter-final appearances which occurred in 1996 and 2008 but with Tottenham midfielders Niko Kranjčar and Luka Modrić pulling the strings in midfield creating goals shouldn't be a problem. If they are to progress through the group it looks likely they'll need to beat Ireland and get at least at draw against either Spain or Italy. STAR MAN Nikica Jelavić. A revelation at Everton this season, the former Rangers star is an old fashioned number nine who always keeps a cool head in front of goal. WHERE TO WATCH Guccio Damagoj (ul. Suzina 8). Located in a former cinema and run by a Croat who has resided in Poland for the past six years, this little restaurant offers top quality Croatian wine and food. THE POLISH CONNECTION Croatia ended Poland’s hopes of qualifying through the group stages of Euro 2008 with a one nil win in Klagenfurt four years ago. DID YOU KNOW? Dalmatian dogs, also known as Dubrovnik hunters, come from Dalmatia the coastal region of Croatia.

ENGLAND

FRANCE

OVERVIEW Champions in 1984 and 2000 Les Bleus were the laughing stock at the World Cup in South Africa two years ago when a player’s mutiny derailed any hope their ageing team had of getting through the group stages. Since then Lauren Blanc has brought some pride back to the nation and, despite various sex and racial scandals effecting French football, has managed to steer his side successfully through qualifying. With a midfield packed full of creative talent from the likes of Nasri, Ribéry and Cabaye this team could potentially score goals by the bagful. With a feel good factor coursing through the team, they look a hot bet to progress as far as the semis. STAR MAN Goals win games and in Karim Benzema France have a striker capable of leaving any goalkeeper in the world flapping on the turf. WHERE TO WATCH L’Arc (ul. Puławska 16), has excellent French food and wine. Whether they have a screen remains unknown. THE POLISH CONNECTION Former French leader Napoleon Bonaparte is still revered by some Poles after he created the Duchy of Warsaw in 1807 following defeat of Prussia – that’s why a statue of him was recently unveiled in Pl. Powstańców Warszawy. DID YOU KNOW? French fries, made famous around the world following the return of soldiers from WW2, are actually from Belgium.

SWEDEN

UKRAINE

OVERVIEW Ukraine won’t be fancied by many at this year’s Euros given that their recent results have been mixed at best. But as is often the case in tournaments, when the home nation play the form book is thrown out of the window. Remember South Korea in 2002? Ukraine’s fans will definitely be key to the co-hosts potential progress. The influence of the 1975 European Footballer of the Year and current head coach Oleg Blokhin may also be pivotal. STAR MAN His star may be on the wane but former AC Milan hit-man Andre Shevchenko might just have enough in his locker to further cement his place as a national hero. WHERE TO WATCH Kresowiak (Al. Wilanowska 43C). Although not strictly a one country restaurant, with food based around traditional dishes from Ukraine, Lithuania and Belarus, Kresowiak certainly provides a real taste of the East. THE POLISH CONNECTION The Ukrainian city of Lviv was once the Polish city of Lwów, before becoming part of the Soviet Union in August 1946. DID YOU KNOW? Opened in 1960 the Arsenalna Metro Station in Kiev is the deepest underground train station in the world at 105 meters.

OVERVIEW The Swede’s could be the dark horse of Group C despite most observers ignoring them in favor of France and England. But an impressive qualifying campaign which saw them defeat the Netherlands 3-2 in their final game to go through automatically demonstrates they shouldn’t be taken lightly. Usually fairly sturdy at the back the key to success for the Scandinavians will be the goals of AC Milan’s Zlatan Ibrahimovic and the wing play of Lyon’s Kim Kallstrom. STAR MAN Maverick striker Zlatan Ibrahimovic, a man who among many other indiscretions was once caught in Malmo’s red light district dressed as a police officer attempting to arrest curb crawlers, could light up the tournament if he is on song. WHERE TO WATCH: IKEA (ul. Malborska 51). Surely there’ll be a screen!? THE POLISH CONNECTION Between 1563 and 1721 Sweden and the Lithuanian-Polish Commonwealth were involved in series of battles known as the Polish-Swedish Wars – a nasty conflict which left Poland flattened. DID YOU KNOW? Porky poker pro and one time international footballer Thomas Brolin famously collided with an elk in his home country, prompting the headline: “Huge Swedish Beast Unhurt After Hitting Elk.” facebook.com/warsawinsider

GROUP D

OVERVIEW Sensible analysis of England’s chances would suggest a country which has failed to even get to the final of a major tournament since 1966 has absolutely no chance of winning Euro 2012. Without Wayne Rooney for the first two matches, a new manager who’s had just a month to prepare the team and a bunch of pampered players who don’t give a hoot, more woe could be on the way for the country’s long suffering faithful. But then again English people never have been sensible when it comes to analysis of their own team’s chances. Buoyed by Chelsea’s success in the Champions League, and a thrilling finish to the domestic league, national confidence is sky high – if England win their first game expect the red and white mist to descend and even the most hesitant fans to predict England in the final. STAR MAN Scott Parker. Part WW2 RAF pilot, part 1940s footballing gentlemen – this throwback to the past is a firm fan’s favourite. WHERE TO WATCH Legends (ul. Emilia Plater 25) and The British Bulldog Pub (ul. Krucza 42) will go head to head to draw the exiles through the door. If rumors are to be believed, you'll find the Bulldog open 24/7 for the bigger matches. THE POLISH CONNECTION The Great Escape: the daring break away of British troops from Nazi POW camp Stalag Luft III – immortalized in the Steve McQueen film of the same name – took place in Żagań, 150 clicks from Poznań. DID YOU KNOW? A nation of seafarers, nowhere in the England is more than 74 miles from the sea.

BY KIT F. CHUNG

Anthem for the Underdog

azurek Dąbrowskiego (Dąbrowski’s Mazurka), the Polish national anthem, was born in exile in 1797, at a time when foreign occupation meant that Poland had been deleted from the map. The story of the national ‘hymn’ is further complicated since it’s not all about God saving a queen, but rather deeply entwined with Poland’s rocky past. Version one was written by Józef Wybicki in the Cisalpine Republic (present day Italy) to rally General Jan Henryk Dąbrowski and his battalion. In the hope of resurrecting their homeland, Polish troops had aligned themselves with Napoleon, and found themselves serving under French colours in Italy. Wybicki’s words urged Dąbrowski and his men to return to Polish soil to save the nation.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Installed as the official national anthem in 1926, Mazurek Dąbrowskiego has since undergone several revisions to be in synch with the political climate of the times; a song that once began with “Poland has not yet died” now starts with “Poland has not yet perished”. But, given that we are not expecting incoming missiles anytime soon, perhaps it’s time to update the text again? “We like fighting,” ripostes one Polish Insider. “Our history consists of uprisings and rebellions, and the anthem is related to those events – I can’t imagine any other anthem. The hymn says a lot about the battles which played such a crucial role in our history.” Fortunately, this month, it is the football pitch that represents the battlefield for Poland.

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

As you listen to the rousing Polish anthem being belted out at Euro 2012, your ears will tune in to the refrain of Marsz, Marsz, Dąbrowski. So, what’s the story?

BY ALEX WEBBER

The Big Screen

You might be thinking of locking yourself in a darkened room to watch the tournament from the sanctuary of your sofa. Forget it – the party is out there waiting. OFFICIAL FAN ZONE

Pl. Defilad. Open 10:00-1:00 (closing times will be extended for bigger games). Built to handle 100,000 fans, the official Warsaw fan zone promises to be the largest such project ever realized. Covering a floor plan of 120,000 sq/m, features include eight giant screens for matches, two concert stages and 400 toilets. Set in the open spaces around the Palace of Culture, the zone has been carved up among numerous sponsors, each of which promise something different: Carlsberg will be handling the beer situation thanks to a two-floor bar, while a controversial McDonald’s – occupying the spot slated for Warsaw’s Museum of Modern Art – will tout a mysterious contraption called a ‘Giant Passion Meter’. Orange have revealed plans for an open air cinema, as well as a Robo-Keeper at whom fans can crack shots at. Adidas claim if you mooch around their corner, you’ve a chance of meeting players, and Pekao Bank are on hand for currency exchange, pre-paid cards and other banking services. Alternatively, head to MasterCard for the inglorious chance to be a ref for the day. Admission is free.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

CARLSBERG FAN CAMP

ul. Wybrzeże Gdańskie 4, www.carlsbergfancamp.pl This temporary camp site / entertainment heaven includes football pitches, big screens and accommodation, as well as a palm lined artificial beach, music stages, catering and, of course, stack loads of Carlsberg.

THE REST

Expect football overload in the pubs and bars of Warsaw, and you’ll find ex-pat haunts like Bradley’s, The British Bulldog and Legends all packing out over the course of the tournament. In the hotels, Champions (Marriott), Someplace Else (Sheraton) and Hemisphere (InterContinental) will also fulfill any footballing needs. Few places, if any, have made a bigger effort than the Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Each and every game will be complimented by a ‘Half Time Variety Show’, with entertainment provided by MC Barry Solone, African drummers, football tricksters, body painted party gals, cash prize sweepstakes and a series of live music acts. Aiming to generate a carnival spirit, some memorable, wobbly-legged nights are completely guaranteed.

WARSAW 72 HOURS

THREE DAYS, ONE CITY

Pushed for time? The Insider brings you the best ways to get the most out of Warsaw. BY ALEX WEBBER

ersonally speaking, I don’t need a timetable when I find myself following England abroad. That’s always a one dimensional affair with no planning required: stake your territory with a Bristol City flag, bask like a seal in a beer garden, fail to score tickets then shout at a screen in a murky looking dive. Happy days, and certainly a schedule I’ll be keeping this summer. Of course, not all visitors this June will be viewing Euro 2012 as a jumbo drinking challenge. And why would they. The Warsaw of today is not short of attractions, sights and all round curiosities. With your time no doubt limited, we bring you the best:

DAY 1

MORNING Central Station: No matter how you arrive, you will pass through Central Station. Opened on 5 December, 1975, to coincide with Brezhnev’s junket to the 7th Workers’ Party Congress, it was trumped as a triumph of socialism: out of towners mobbed the place to gawk at space age touches like Italian clocks and escalators from France… the nation’s first vending machine, even. Constructed in under 1,000 days, sloppy workmanship soon became apparent, and in the following years the station rotted into ruin. Now though, thanks in part to the Euros, this evil concrete underworld has been reinvented with designer toilets and

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Palace of Culture and Science

electronic timetables that measure waiting times by the amount of cheeseburgers your guts can process at the nearby McDonald’s. Palace of Culture: Resist temptation to lose yourself in the attractions of the Fan Zone, and instead take a trip up Poland’s tallest building. Built as a present from the Soviet Union (choose between a metro or a tower, they asked), it’s totally Gotham City in its brooding excess. Featuring 3,288 rooms, the highlight of this 231 meter monolith is the viewing platform perched on the top: stretch out to touch neighboring skyscrapers like Daniel Liebeskind’s weird work in progress, Złota 44, or the InterContinental Hotel: host to Europe’s highest pool. Jewish Warsaw: Home to Europe’s largest ghetto during WWII, the Nazis did a thorough job of erasing their dirty work; methodically flattened, the post-war Muranów housing estate was plonked on the ruins of the ghetto and today only fragments survive – a section of original wall on Sienna 55 (enter from Złota 62), for instance. More recently, a dramatic installation has been added to ul. Chłodna: illuminated at night, a trail of overhead lights mark the spot where a bridge notoriously connected the large ghetto with the small. The focal point of pre-war Jewish life, however, was to be found on pl. Grzybowski, a triangular plot close to the Palace of Culture. A small maze of streets leads to Warsaw’s only surviving synagogue

Old Town

(ul. Twarda 6), and nearby don’t miss a look at ul. Próżna – now rife with cranes and industrial machinery, this was the only ghetto street to escape obliteration. While one side is being busily redeveloped, the other offers an eerie glimpse into the past: propped up by wooden scaffolds, the empty blackened tenements lean inwards on the street, lending a spooky feel to this part of town. AFTERNOON Center: Inch through the crowds to make it to Rondo de Gaulle’a. The roundabout takes its name from Charles de Gaulle (who got stuck in against the communists during the 1920 Battle of Warsaw), and is easily recognized on account of its palm – fifteen meters tall, the artificial tree celebrates its tenth birthday later this year. Titled ‘Greetings from Jerusalem’, the palm is intended as a reminder of Warsaw’s lost Jewish population, and provides a stark contrast to the bleak concrete construction that looms in its shadow. That’s the former Communist Party HQ, a blockish building reputed to have underground tunnels running to secret train stations. In an ironic twist the structure, which incorporates masonry from Hindenburg’s former mausoleum, briefly served as the home of the stock exchange after the Iron Curtain fell. The Royal Route: Make your path to Stare Miasto (Old Town) by heading past the store fronts and café terraces

of Nowy Świat and up the regal looking Krakowskie Przedmieście. It’s the same road Polish monarchs once followed on their way to and from town, and there’s still much to pause for. Chopin was raised round these parts, and while he’s famous for his associations with France, home is where the heart is – literally. Following his death his heart was pickled in brandy then sealed in an urn inside Holy Cross Church (Krakowskie Przedmieście 3). Tucked past the elegant Bristol Hotel find the Presidential Palace: the official residence of the big man in charge. In 1955 it entered history when the Warsaw Pact – the red reply to NATO – was ratified inside. With Old Town already in view, spare a breathless few minutes to climb the viewing platform at St. Anne’s Church (Krakowskie Przedmieście 68), before heading back down… deep down. The escalator on the other side of the street was the first in Poland. Opened in ’49, socialist reliefs have been preserved to this day, as have period signs warning repeat offenders against using the escalators over and over (hey, there really was that little do under the old system). Old Town: If you’ve had enough of going up and down the escalator (naughty, naughty), then you could explore Mariensztat at the bottom – a powder pink housing estate that was a model communist project. Alternately, head into Old Town. Entrance to it is announced by the statue of King Zygmunt, the regent who chose to shift the capital facebook.com/warsawinsider

WARSAW 72 HOURS

Praga

from Kraków to here. The original column, taken out by a German artillery round, lies next to the Royal Castle. Leveled by the Nazis in 1944, the Old Town was skillfully rebuilt using pre-war photographs and paintings as reference: nowadays, you’d never guess that bits of it are probably younger than yourself. Frankly, there’s too many highlights to mention, so without sounding like a tourist comic the best idea is to let your whims lead you down the cobbles and the courtyards. There are some unmissables though, those being St. John’s Cathedral with its echoing crypt, and the square itself with its Historical Museum – inside, view the story of Warsaw’s wartime destruction, before maybe heading down ul. Piwna to the Barbakan: an Italian designed brick fortress which marks the end of the Old Town. Warsaw’s most poignant memorial, that to boy soldiers killed in the Uprising, is found on Podwale as you curve around Old Town. EVENING Warsaw’s Old Town is a tourist exclusive district. Come night, the locals head to the center – if you’ve packed some knockout aftershave join other predators and night owls as they prowl around the clubs of Mazowiecka and others in its radius. After the club, convene to one of the all night shot bars that have become increasingly vogue – Meta, Pijalnia, Bar Warszawa and Przekąski Zakąski are all great spots to raise a vodka and toast your surrounds.

DAY 2:

MORNING Set the alarm early – museum time! The Warsaw Uprising Museum is a standout, and does a sterling job of educating visitors about the tragedy of the Uprising – the ill-fated 1944 rebellion which resulted in ‘the death of the city’.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Saski Park

Costing a quarter of a million lives, the battle for Warsaw left 84% of the capital in a heap of rubble. Using 3D CGI effects, a high impact film takes viewers on a five minute aerial tour of the devastated city. If you’re keeping a ‘to do’ list, this should go somewhere at the top. Joining its ranks in Warsaw’s Mega Museum League is the Chopin effort, a place worth visiting even if you’ve no interest in the chap: reckoned to be one of the most hi-tech museums in the world, it completely redefines the sightseeing experience. Finally, the Copernicus Science Centre completes the Big Three with hundreds of hands-on science displays that appeal not just to kids – let’s face it, who doesn’t want to return home and boast they’ve experienced an earthquake or flown on a magic carpet. Yes, that’s exactly what awaits at the Copernicus. LATE AFTERNOON Saska Kępa: With kickoff approaching head across Most Poniatowski to amble around Saska Kępa, an upmarket district heavily sprinkled with Art Deco villas and Modernist mansions. It’s not rare to find locals declaring the area a ‘village within a city’, and yes, it does have that temperament. While low on specific tourist sights, it’s a quiet retreat from the madhouse downtown, and that’s especially true of Park Skaryszewski. Hiding amid the trails and ponds find a string of memorials, including a commemorative bolder honoring a British plane shot down while dropping supplies during the Uprising. Only one pilot survived, and he was present when Maggie Thatcher unveiled the memorial in 1988. EVENING Praga: Of course, there’s an ulterior motive to luring you here. The national stadium is bang next to Saska Kępa.

a “Warsaw’s green city,

and her parks are her pride”

Chopin in Łazienki Park

While most fans will plod straight back to the center after the whistle, don’t think you have to. The right side of the river has become synonymous with nightlife, and the bars are its business card. In Saska Kępa, Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska has become a hit with the leftfield community, but for Warsaw in its rawest head to the bars of Praga. While this district has historically enjoyed dark local press, in recent years it’s become the home to a thriving counterculture, with hip bars flourishing amid artsy workshops and creative projects. In this respect, ul. Ząbkowska stands out for its edgy wall art and scattering of bars. W Oparach Absurdu (Ząbkowska 6) appeals on account of a shambolic design and Bohemian bent, though to really capture the spirit(s) of this area visit Czysta Ojczysta (Ząbkowska 27/31). Entered through creepy neo Gothic gates, this former vodka factory is currently under development. In the meantime, several of the outbuildings have been utilized for weird and wonderful uses, not least Czysta Ojczysta – a cavernous vodka bar with a Bladerunner backdrop.

DAY 3

MORNING Ouch. There’s an off chance you may wake-up in a bush looking like a shot badger. Should that be the case, consider a replenishing visit to the park: Warsaw’s a green city, and her parks are her pride. To the south Łazienki is breathtaking, and closely protected by a battalion of peacocks. If you’re here on Sunday, check out the live Chopin recitals which entertain once a week within sight of his statue. And while there, wave at the Polish team – they’re staying across the road in the Hyatt Hotel. Saski Park pleases in equal measure: opened in 1722, it was one of the first public parks in the world, and her highlights encompass 21 Baroque sandstone sculptures, as well

as the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier – the one surviving element of what was once Saski Palace. More latent, the University Library (Dobra 56/66) has a splendid park positioned on the roof, though for the Insider’s favorite little secret, check Osiedle Domków Fińskich (ul. Jazdów). Consisting of 28 wooden chalets, it’s an amazing housing project in the center of the city: constructed in 1945 to house architects involved in the rebuilding program, the pre-built cabins were imported from Finland. Set against a serene wooded background, the sensation is akin to being teleported to a tiny Swiss village. AFTERNOON Retail therapy time, with serious shoppers advised to gravitate around Mokotowska / pl. Trzech Krzyży. Designer names shout from each awning, with major international fashion houses sharing the streets with upcoming local names like Maciej Zień. Boutique unique indeed. But no trip to this area can be complete without first exercising the credit card at Vitkac – Poland’s only luxury department store. Celebrate your splurge in the on-site champagne bar. For something totally different, then pencil in a visit to the Koło Market on ul. Oboźna. Held each Sunday, this flea market is legendary for its offer: antiques from various eras vie for space alongside war loot and communist keepsakes. EVENING That’s it: Warsaw in a nutshell. Enjoyed it? Then why not say goodbye in style. Squeezed between the Old Town and the river, a jazzy looking fountain park amuses each night with choreographed water displays that draw hundreds of onlookers. Then again, maybe drinks down the pub sounds a far better plan... facebook.com/warsawinsider

BROUGHT TO YOU BY: ENOTEKA

The great, classic Rieslings from Rheinhessen

Weingut Wittmann is undoubtedly one of the top wineries in Germany, and especially famous for their outstanding Rieslings. by maciej bombol, owner of enoteka

WARSAW INSIDER READERS CAN CHOOSE FROM A SELECTION OF THESE THREE OUTSTANDING WINES:

t’s possible to assess Riesling as the finest white grape variety in the world on the basis of the longevity of its wines and their ability to transmit the characteristics of a vineyard without losing their own unique style. Riesling is also known as the King of White Wines. For many wine critics the best Rieslings in the world are made in Germany (Mosel, Rheingau, Rheinhessen). The Wittmann family and their ancestors are wine-growers from the old market town of Westhofen, in southern Rheinhessen, where the first documented viticulture in the family dates from 1663. Today’s estate has developed this tradition over the course of centuries. However, the length of this estate’s tradition does not paint the whole picture. Nearly two decades ago the Wittmann estate converted from conventional to controlled ecological viticulture. Weingut Wittmann has been a member of the organic farmers’ association Naturland since 1990. Ecological viticulture means an uncompromising abstention from the use of herbicides, chemical or synthetic fungicides or insecticides, and easily soluble mineral fertilizers. This keeps the soil healthy and ensures that the vines are deeply rooted, which in turn results in a good supply of nutrients and minerals. This fosters the terroir character of a wine. Today Weingut Wittmann is a leader of biodynamic farming methods, which were originally implemented in 2004. “This means much more work for us in the vineyards,” says Phillipp Wittmann, “but at the same time, healthy grapes grow in healthy soil... and this ultimately guarantees the high quality of our wines.”

The importer of these wines is: Enoteka Polska, ul. Długa 23/25, Warsaw e-mail: enoteka@enotekapolska.pl Enoteka is also one of the best restaurants in Warsaw, ranked in 15th position among over 600 venues in Warsaw (tripadvisor.com)

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Silvaner trocken 2011 (100% Silvaner, price zł 46.50)

Riesling trocken 2011 (100% Riesling, classic wine for zł 55.50)

Reviews: Bufet Centralny 41 / Belvedere 60 / Ostrakuchnia.pl 67 / Zielnik Cafe 48 Plus: * 17 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 41 / AMERICAN & TEX-MEX 41 / ASIAN 42 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 44 / BRITISH 44 / FRENCH 46 / FOOD SHOPS 66 / GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN 46 / HOME DELIVERY 58 / INDIAN 48 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 49 / ITALIAN 55 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 59 / JEWISH 61 / LATIN 61 / POLISH 62 / SEAFOOD 66

KEY

Insider’s Pick

$ zł. 30 (per main)

BOW 2011 Winner............. Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... $$$ over zł. 55 Child friendly................... Insider writers do Delivery............................. not accept any Free wifi.............................. form of payment in Map location pg 102 ...... (A1) return for favorable Romantic.......................... reviews. Vegetarian friendly........... $$ zł. 30-55

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $

Bufet Centralny ul.Żurawia 32/34, tel 523 749 160. Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 14:00-24:00.

PHOTOGRAPHS: THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF ENOTEKA

es, the location is central, but I do not see any buffet tables anywhere; but then maybe I’m just an American used to all-you-can-eat buffets. What I do see is what you’d expect of a new restaurant opened by a foodie whose other venue is in the BoHo stronghold of Praga (Winowajca) – white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar, and the trendy idea of hanging draftsman desk lamps from the wall. Exposed concrete columns echo the poured-concrete car park across the street, and as I find myself drawn to a table by the window to get a better view of the vintage neon signage, my wife suggests a spot closer to the bar (so the waitress can’t forget about us). As we pick through the menu, I soak in the rest of the interior and the clientele. Right on point, our waitress approaches to take our order the second we’re ready. Disarmed by her affable nature, I find myself almost instantly teleported to a different city. The daydream doesn’t last long though, and the bubble bursts with the news that both items we want are out. Dammit, so close! All she had to do when handing us the menu was to tell us two of the five main courses were off – we’d have understood; if anything, at least it’s an indication the ingredients are fresh. Not that this mattered in the long run. Our original choices were forgotten the moment we found a delicious Hungarian fish soup laid out in front of us. The ante was upped further with the mains – roast beef salad with lentils for my wife, and wiener schnitzel (with a fried egg and a fantastic potato puree) for myself. The schnitzel was huge, practically hanging over the edge of the plate, and well twinned with a Czech Bernard beer. To finish, we shared a chocolate soufflé, which proved to be airy, gooey and everything nice. Having enjoyed the experience so much, I really wish the place was an all-you-can-eat buffet – I’d just love to run the rule over everything here. Until then, I guess I’m just going to have to get here that little bit earlier to order the ribs and other diminishing dishes. (KD)

Home Africa Bar (Wola) ul. Górczewska 67. Open 14:00-last guest. Authenticity doesn’t only stem from the Cameroonian owner. Home Africa Bar is like an African film set in terms of interior, and food-wise, it offers traditional yams and plaintains, as well as ‘I-dare-you’ items like goat’s head. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord. Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use. And good luck with the gizzard. $$

AMERICAN & TEX-MEX Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to

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RESTAURANTS find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$

Burger Bar (L10) ul. Puławska 64. Open 12:00-20:00. The basic diner décor is as simple as the name, but there is a saving grace: burgers that have elicited praise in blogs and mainstream press alike. Served in small little baskets, there’s only a few to choose from but these include the excellent green chili cheeseburger and one made using Wagyu beef. Nowhere in Warsaw comes close. $ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www.dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. Warsaw’s newest Tex Mex outing has been earning perfect 10s from the Insider’s who’ve visited – we’ll be dropping by ourselves for the June issue. $

Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, this leviathan touts excellent burgers and a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls. Rock’n’roll swag numbers Joplin’s blouse and Shakira’s pants. $$

Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who

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don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are hit-and-miss, but the burgers always on-point inside this timeless tribute to the American way. $$

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory. pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The habanero salsa looks and tastes like molten lava, and is just right when paired with their hefty burritos. But it’s more than Warsaw’s premier Tex Mex joint; a firm ex-pat bastion, the barometer goes off the scale at weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling foreigners and hot locals. $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120. Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon (D4) ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that

make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00.Allegedly the first Jiangsu cuisine restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes at the China Garden are indeed unique. On show here is everything from bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts, goose jaws and stewed bull’s penis with radish – I dare you. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Galeria Bali & Buddha Bar (D3)

ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 828 6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia. Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$ Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza), tel. 22 658 0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Good food at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$

Little Thai Gallery (D3) Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. 22 827 4410, www.littlethaigallery.pl . Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. High gloss violet interiors and cute elephant candle holders lend this place no shortage of style. The food can be a hit and miss affair, though the curry dishes are usually every bit as good as they sound. So too the green tea ice cream. $$ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by

a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $ Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501. Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location. Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500. Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for

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RESTAURANTS any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Sunday Brunch” Winner Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 22 635 3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Tobaya (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. 22 520 2222, www.tobaya.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Inside it’s like a trip to the Far East. ToBaYa stands for To – for Tokyo because you’ll find great sushi and claypots here (same proprietor as So-An sushi on Koszykowa St.), Ba – for Bangkok and the flavorful dishes of Thailand, and Ya – for Yakarta, with rare Indonesian culinary treats. Top choice for two: Pla Prik-Waan a.k.a royal gilthead baked in hot-and-sour sauce. $$ Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The summer’s creeping back, and with it one of the best gardens in the biz – if that’s full though, enjoy numerous dishes from Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of the hunter’s hut style. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more. Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” The no-frills interiors buzz with vodka tinged high jinks. $ Restauracja Bałkany ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 600 031 847. Open 10:00-22:00. Chef Borys used to do the cooking at the intricate Tawerna Tabak, and while this place looks like a step down the cooking

hasn’t suffered: order the kofta. Décor is stark, dark and simple, but the welcome – like the cooking – is enthusiastic. $ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $ Varna (D6) ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in town, but none that look this good; decorated with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balk-fest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the full list of hearty, homey classics. The musaka is peerless. $

BRITISH

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub. pl. Open 8:00-1:00. The highly anticipated Bulldog brings the British gastro-pub phenomena to Warsaw. Traditional heart tickling breakfasts go alongside burgers, steaks and other English sundries, and are complimented by a lovely pub design straight out of Midsummer Murders. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

RESTAURANTS FRENCH Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$

Fenicja (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 510 759 795, www.fenicja.pl. Open 10:00-24:00 (kebab window 24hrs). Bathed in a cheap green glow you just don’t expect a restaurant of this caliber in such a low-budget setting. But it’s excellent, with an encyclopedic choice of eastern dishes enjoyed by hunched Lebanese natives whispering over plates of hummus. The locals though, seem to prefer the 24hr kebab window, home of the best post-pub soakage imaginable. $ Le Cedre (F1)

Pari Pari (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel. 22 628 2402. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-last guest. French they insist, we say non. Come evening, you’ll be hard pressed to note the poster art by Lautrec through all the winking neon and thundering televisions. The menu is similarly curious – the menu bursts with references to Napoleon, Musketeers and Pigalle, though contains practically nothing you’d find in France. If you look through this inconsistency, then the Polish food isn’t bad at all. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Warsaw’s had a long liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under-represented. This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. $$ Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek)

ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$

Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www. lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$

GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN

Lokanta (C4) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 22 585 1004, www.lokanta.home.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00last guest. The restaurant has built up its reputation of serving good-quality, traditional Turkish cuisine. The döner kebab will leave you full and happy and is served fast enough at lunchtime to keep up with your schedule. Now throws Orient-inspired dance parties every weekend for Bangla fans. $$

El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open

Maho (Ochota) Al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548,

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

www.maho.com.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Found in that office/residential grey zone of Ochota, Maho looks more like a drive-thru burger joint from the outside. So it’s surprising to find some of the best skewered meats in Warsaw in this Turkish locale. Basic interiors but great food and well-stocked deli. $ Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Restauracja Flios (Ursynów) ul. Dereniowa 6, tel. 22 648 4589, www.restauracjaflios.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. The décor is OTT, but there’s little to complain about when it comes to the food. Excellent appetizers – zesty pikilia, stuffed grape leaves, meat cutlets and some of the best fried eggplant around. $$$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$ Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters

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RESTAURANTS are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus. With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. $$

INDIAN

Annapurna (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 409 4400. Open 11:30-22:00. What had emerged as our favorite Indian in the pack has only gone and closed its doors for remont. We’ve been told, when they return, to expect a new menu with a less pronounced Indian spin. We sincerely hope not. $$

Zielnik Café ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, www.zielnikcafe.pl. Garden open daily 10:00-20:00; restaurant until 23:00.

hat can be better than lunch in the park? For a mid-day respite to replenish the mind and body, on a pleasant day you cannot go wrong in the special garden getaway of the Zielnik Café. Located across Odyńca from its parent restaurant, on the edge of the eastern half of Park Dreszera in Mokotów, this contemplative corner of Warsaw deserves a visit. Gracing the neighbourhood for 11 years, the café itself has the distinctive rustic-chic atmosphere that co-owner Magda Gessler is now well known for. Its sense of intimacy has been successfully transferred across the street where white canvas tents protect patrons from too much sun, occasional showers and street folk. Comfortable, easy closeness in the seating of the 20+ tables promises quiet acoustics, although the music selection could do with a change away from the stray boy-band sound to more easy jazz. Immediately abutting the eating area is a fine toddlers play area, strategically planned for those of under-waist height. The remainder of this portion of the park is studded with French gardens, benches and a formidable monument to the local fighters involved in the Warsaw Uprising; perfect for book reading or nature strolls. Zielnik is the oldest of a quartet of south side restaurants. Co-owner Mariusz Diakowski went on to open Papu and Stary Dom and together they form a nice stable of reliable, delicious eateries for the community. A full kitchen on-site serves the park patrons and the menu is different than that in the cafe. There is an ample variety of soups, salads and mains (averaging zł. 33) with an emphasis on the grill. In the park, the chef throws skewered shrimps with a spicy Cajun-like marinade on the coals and then basks them on a bed of tomatoes and avocado drizzled with very nice vinaigrette. While attention to a dressing may seem frivolous, a sauce can really make or break a meal and the sauces here are certainly a triumph. Try the delicate pesto that adorns the perfectly cooked dorada (sea bream) and you’ll see what I mean. The meringue tortes are sinfully scrumptious. Have one for dessert along with a cup of Pani Magda’s fresh mint tea and you are ready to tackle the remainder of the day – or head to the park for a siesta!

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up. $$ Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. When the service isn’t clanking around, dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $$

Ganesh Express (A4) ul. Grzybowska 61, www.ganeshexpress.pl. Open 10:30-22:30. Dinky, readymade portions aimed for a lunch-on-the-run crowd. Yes, the meals are pre-cooked, but the standard has been raised, alcohol introduced and the prices moderated. $

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF ZIELNIK CAFE

Food, libation, atmosphere and joviality. We all deserve and need to nourish the body as well as the soul – and The Luncheonettes are here to help you do just that.

Arti (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123, tel. 22 626 9002, www.restauracjaarti.pl. Open daily 11:0022:30. An exhaustive selection of largely excellent Indian dishes inside a low-cost interior in the center of town. Better surroundings but the same quality are found in their ul. Francuska operation across the water. $

India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Under new management, Warsaw’s most upmarket Indian restaurant is the corporate choice for when suits want it hot. Never short of excellent, the prawn curries are something else. $$ Katmandu (C5) ul. Wspólna 50/52, tel. 22 622 0026. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Nepalese, Thai and Indian dishes inside a no-effort, bare bones interior. But the curries are good, and occasionally excellent; set fire to your tonsils with a chicken madras. $ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 While it caters to a party crowd in the evening, this place is run by Nepalese chef Prakash and features a menu of authentic treats throughout the day and evening. Also offers delivery through its India Express catering service. $

Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $

Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Glimmering candles and a statue of Ganesh greet diners at Saffron, a two floor eatery with a slick modern style and a rising reputation. Meat dishes are limited in their scope (and spice level), but the murgh mekhani can be outstanding at times. Watch for the lunch deals, and note they’ve recently added alcohol to their offer. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:0023:00. Affecting a chichi style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles and autumn leaves. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that embraces the credos that cooking should be theater. The menu comes chalked up on a board, and while the alio olio was a little overcooked, the big guns were out for the steak – fabulous. Definitely one to watch. $$

Bagno Food & Wine ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. With its huge windows and stark style you can’t help but think Bagno would work best in summer; all it takes is a grey Warsaw day to cloak this place in gloom. Which is a shame, as the food (and wine) really work here. Our steak was nicely done, with a flavorful mushroom sauce and thick baked potatoes on the side. $$ Bio 33 ul. Grzybowska 61, tel. 22 409 9605, www.bio33.pl. A space age looking restaurant in the Platinum Towers complex next to the Hilton. Making use of organic products, the premise is simple: three salads, three soups, three fish dishes, three meat etc. The results are marvelous, but the prices are daft. Zł. 26 for tomato soup!? $$ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

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RESTAURANTS The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Brasserie@ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel), tel. 22 321 8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. $$

Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. A year on and this is still the restaurant everyone is talking about. Having scooped the award for Gazeta Wyborza’s restaurant of the year, reservations are essential. Served on wooden boards by staff in butcher’s aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$

Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct, five course set lunch menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$

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Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 826 0660, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Elegant and ornate, but the menu is a tool of deception - the final results are nowhere near as tasty as they sound. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$ Delikatesy Esencja (F7) ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:002:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and overhead pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. $$ Etno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 564 5780, www.etnoerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking rather sterile and anonymous, it’s no surprise to find Etno’s scattering of customers consisting of the grey-looking number crunchers from the offices upstairs. While it’s not exactly light on the wallet, the lunch deals make it more than worthwhile – a selected starter and main for 20-something zlots. $$ Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00. A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small playground in the park that it views. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8631. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 7:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. A stylish restaurant that’s best recognized for its seriously good brunches.

See for yourself each Sunday, when zł. 165 gets you unlimited access to some top-range F&B. Turn up on Thursday night for a similar offer that’s focused on fish. $$$ Green Peas (D4) ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.With Ye Goode Foode nuked into touch, it’s been left to Green Peas to wave the eco-flag. Featuring vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here – probably the healthiest in the city. Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ H3 Gourmet Burger (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska, www.h3.com. Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. Okay, so it’s in a food court, but H3 are a million times superior to the immediate neighbors. Part of a Portuguese chain, bunless burgers come in a variety of choices: including one with an egg on it (eek!). Go for the mushroom one instead. $ Kaprys (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2232, www.restauracjakaprys.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Like their service, Kaprys have had a slow start. We had a five minute wait for the menu, in spite of being the only customers. The design looks formal and unimaginative, and the menu includes a bit of everything – it’s hard to define the cuisine. Our beef carpaccio was tasty, but sea bass – served with head, eyes et al. – was off-putting, and the potato wedges almost certainly from a bag. $$ Kultura (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel. 784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00. An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrellastyle lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by

RESTAURANTS Street Food Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $

Cheng Way (D4) ul. Chmielna 10, tel. 22 899 1626. Open 11:00-20:00. Imagine a Franco/ Vietnamese translation of Subway and you have Cheng Way. Loaded with generous Asian fillings and sauces, the baguettes here are spot on. $

Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, www.groole.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with pride of place going to fantastic Belgian-style fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. $ Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska. Open Fri & Sat 22:004:00. A game changer for the late night eating community in Warsaw – i.e. those of us who rush to the pub on Friday without eating. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers (inc. Philly cheese steak!), and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $

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those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Incorporating ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences,’ chef Pawel Oszczyk has created one of the top dining rooms in Warsaw, a comfortable space that’s both intimate and plush without ever appearing over-indulgent. The the tuna tartar is a magnificent starter, and the venison faultless. Enhancing the chef’s talents is Andrzej Strzelczyk, one of Poland’s top ranked sommeliers. $$$ Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1823. Open daily: 6:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 18:00-23:00. Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavorful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from one of Warsaw’s top hotels – excellent. $$$ Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. $$ Meza Restaurant (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Hotel). Open daily 6:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka. The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794

16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destinaBEST WAWA 2011 “Kid tion to follow. $$ Friendly” Winner Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc). Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$ Papu (D9) Al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, www.restauracjapapu.pl. Open daily 10:00last guest. The elegant décor, complimented by fantastic staff, all combine to make this a relaxing and romantic experience. $$$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco

swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak. The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “First Date” Winner Quick Steak (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 530 969 999, www.quicksteak.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. So it’s not Butchery & Wine, but this place really isn’t too bad. Even so, you’ve got to question the wisdom of anyone who opens a burger and steak joint next to Hard Rock. Going in the ring with the undisputed champion of Americana is pretty audacious, not to say foolish. There’s only one

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winner there, and it’s not these bods. $$ R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 7:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$ Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl. Open Sun-Thur 12:00-

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24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. Fusion food, top cocktails and the restobar concept: it all started here, or at least it did where Warsaw is concerned. Years on and Sense is still a market leader, with a menu that’s perfect bait for the hot lookers who come here – try the flame-grilled lamb chops. $$ Solec (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 22 826 3008, www.stantonio.pl. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among

TEL. 22 652 1616 WWW.SANLORENZO.PL facebook.com/warsawinsider

RESTAURANTS business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the place gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$

Theatro Fusion Restaurant ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open 12:00-23:00. The menu is a balance of international influences, and includes a selection of ‘Thai pasta’ and a lovely creation called Chicken Barbara. Finally open after what seems like a year of work, the elaborate interiors reflect the Foksal location. $$

U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Literally translated as ‘with the cooks’, you find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, with food served straight from the pots. Some are calling this the best meal in Warsaw, and it’s certainly up there…. even if the cocktails BEST WAWA 2011 “Restaurant aren’t. $$ Design” Winner Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fullybooked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$ Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open

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WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs. Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$ You and Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, www.youandmebar.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:3024:00; Fri 8:30-2:00, Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Serving up a pretty attractive selection of food. The interiors of this café/bar look very modern, and the bold crimson decor makes it a hot spot for a date. $$

ITALIAN Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food

remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed. A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$

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The Taste of Italy

Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www. delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talked-about venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$

PHOTOGRAPH BY ŁUKASZ MAZUREK

Doppio (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 22 622 1330. www.doppio-senso.pl. Open Tues-Sun 13:00last guest. Some might call the red and white interiors a little lame – they certainly do little to suggest the greatness in store. While there’s a good scattering of pasta and mains, the real deal is the pizza; top in the town’s pecking order claim their expanding band of fans. $$

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828 2605, www.gar.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria. The pizza pies are excellent with thin-crust and hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed

The Warsaw Insider sat down with Renata Caruso, a Polish woman who knows all about Italian charm, fashion, charisma and, above all… dining. BY IZA DEPCZYK

WI: What is your Italian connection? I’ve been married to an Italian for 17 years now. We run a company together, though I also own the Versace Collection store in Galeria Mokotów here in Warsaw.

WI: What do you love most about Italy? I love Italian fashion, Italian people and their charisma, but most of all, Italian food! San Lorenzo is the only place in Warsaw where I can enjoy real Italian pasta, fish, steak or dessert. I knew the owners long before they opened San Lorenzo, and I know they poured their heart and soul into the restaurant to ensure it reflects authentic traditions.

WI: What do you love most about San Lorenzo? What is there not to love? It has an Italian chef, uses fresh Italian produce, and has an atmosphere and look that’s relaxed yet refined – just what I love in restaurants. This is not just a trattoria but a real Ristorante Italiano!

WI: And is there a favorite dish? I absolutely love the steamed sea bream, which comes served on a plate of cooked vegetables. I also love all the pasta dishes served downstairs, in the bar area. They capture the taste of traditional Italian mamma cooking!

WI: San Lorenzo is known for its wide choice of Italian wines, which do you pick? My favorite wine is Colomba Platino. I love it with my meal when I’m dining with my husband and friends in the upstairs dining room. But I also enjoy sipping on it as I snack on a grissini, while laughing along with all the rowdy Italians in the downstairs bar. You know, that really makes me feel like I’m back in Italy! facebook.com/warsawinsider

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“We also always have a variety of fresh meat and fish to choose from,” adds the chef, “like fillet mignon, lamb, and duck, as well as salmon, tuna, or Dover Sole - which is a real customer favorite.” Among the highlights this season, guests can enjoy an à la carte menu which includes traditional Polish cucumber soup, chilled baby-beetroot soup, rabbit with asparagus, trio of veal with baby carrots, or frozen forest fruits with warm white chocolate sauce. All these special treats can be enjoyed with an exceptional wine list or a wide selection of refreshing cocktails. And for those looking for a place to dine while they rush from one meeting to the next, the restaurant also offers an excellent Business Lunch deal with a starter, main and dessert for only zł.79. Amber Room Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.amber-room.pl

Dishes from the top: Barley Soup. Smoked salmon, rosti, sour cream mousse, sturgeon caviar. Wild pheasant breast & ballotine, chestnuts, braised red cabbage. Chocolate fondant, coconut ice cream, frozen cheesecake with raspberries.

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl. Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl. Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $$ La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 331 6798, www.lacantina.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. Mediterranean dishes with pastas, seafood and meat dishes and a large variety of pizza from a wood-fired oven. $ La Tomatina (D4) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in a modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. $ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30. Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$ Oregano (Białołęka Dworska) ul. Bohaterów 14, tel. 22 425 5964, www.oregano-restauracja.pl. Open Mon-Thurs & Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Just about 25 minutes drive from the center, this lovely villa houses a cozy Italian restaurant with a menu that’s traditional but also very creative, put together by award-winning chef Anna Martynowska. Highly recommended for a weekend brunch/dinner jaunt. $$

www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A back street haunt that earns its stripes for excellent pizza – but better ring your order, with staff this sour it pays to keep contact minimal. $ Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 622 6762, www.poezja.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink with shrimp as a main. $$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, www.puntaprima.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. A formal looking space with wood walls and important chests and cabinets. Start with a glass of prosecco before being blown over by mains like guinea fowl with truffle puree and caramelized beetroot – even better than it sounds. $$ Ristorante Il Sole (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 22 653 6484, www.ilsole.com.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. Cut-price lunch deals draw in suited crowds from the offices upstairs, while modern, cosmopolitan interiors further stroke the corporate feel. The food won’t win prizes – neither will the servers – but it’s not a bad haunt if you’re working locally. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3)

Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00. The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pizzeria na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498 8877,

Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$

Roma Bukieteria (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 621 0311, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. $$

Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $

Rusticoni Restaurant (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni. pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $

Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356 1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$

Sapori d’Italia (Ursynów) ul. Dembego 10 lok. U5, tel. 888 231 030, www.sapori-ditalia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00. Recommended dishes include the tuna salad, a vibrant mix of tuna fish, salad, green olives and tomatoes enlivened by a creamy dill sauce and the deliciously tender Dourade fish. The food is well-worth the trip out to this slightly remote restaurant. $$ Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Serving classic Italian favorites including pizza, pasta and risotto, this restaurant has something for everyone. The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended. $

Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00. What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease

the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$ Włoska Robota (Ochota) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0023:00. Squirreled away in Park Szczęśliwicki in Ochota, the forte of the establishment is the home-made pasta. The menu is otherwise a cookie-cutter range of pizza with the usual range of toppings. If you’re after baked dough the “panuozzo” sandwiches are real winners just be prepared to wait a while. $

JAPANESE & SUSHI Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. The glory years are over, especially if a visit to the Złote Tarasy outpost is anything to go by. We like our duck to be crispy, but this could have been blowtorched – we didn’t need chopsticks, we needed a chisel. The W.C could benefit from a lick of paint and all. $$ Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720,

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RESTAURANTS www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$ Besuto (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. After years trading in one of the grubby pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto have upped chopsticks and moved onto Nowy Świat itself. The sushi is as good as ever, only now so are the views. You’d have expected the prices to climb north to reflect the change in address: they haven’t. $$ Hana Sushi Jasna Centre (D3) Jasna Centre, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. 22 826 8585, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. This new location of Hana Sushi combines sleek Japanese minimalism with an air of decadence, and serves food as fresh and attractive as the presentation. $$

Gugo Sushi (Wilanów) ul. Nałęczowska 60, tel. 22 394 5480, www.gugosushi.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. Fresh ingredients and wide selection of traditional items and modern creations from the classic and fusion menus make this new sushi spot in Wilanów worth checking out. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955. Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$

Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel. 607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$ Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery (D2)

ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. 22 892 0901, www.kiku.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A rather well-designed place with lots of Japanese-inspired furnishings. This restaurant, run by a Korean staff, offers far more than good sushi: tasty glassy noodles and udon soups too. $ Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. 22 828 0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$

Belvedere Summer Garden ul. Agrykoli 1 (enter from ul. Parkowa), www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

elebrated for its pomp and style Belvedere is, in short, something of a culinary celebrity: the kind which belongs on the red carpet. But even repeated recommendations in the Michelin Guide do not reveal the whole story. There is more to this imperial age orangery than intricate latticework, botanical exotica and starched

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

black ties; known as a formal, almost ceremonial restaurant, there are times when visiting this venue feels a little out of bounds. But that’s not the case this summer, and that’s entirely down to the timely launch of their seasonal terrace. Featuring a lighter menu of salads, soups, pastas and sandwiches, the al fresco choice is also considerably more appealing on the pocket. Excellence is assured, however you’re clearly missing the point if you think that’s all there is to this new wing of Belvedere. You see it’s more than just a garden, it’s a park – and not just any old park, but the most exquisite in Poland. Not here will you find tramps curled up on benches or weirdoes in the bushes. With its pristine lawns and immaculate flora, there’s an Eden-style quality to a Łazienki afternoon: spread out on the rattan furniture, cocktail in hand, and press the pause button on life as you take in the surrounds. And, just as you ponder how perfect it all is, allow for a peacock to stop at your table. “Isn’t all this great,” it seems to suggest. Yes, it most certainly is. (AW)

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF BELVEDERE

“ You see it's more than just a garden, it's a park – and not just any old park, but the most exquisite in Poland”

The Place (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 4517, www.theplacesushi.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. Great sushi at (surprisingly) great prices and other Japanese specialties in a slick setting. Plus delicious vegetarian options too. $ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Some call it the best sushi in the city, and they may have a point. Practice nimble chopstick tricks alongside other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$

Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00. Not the best in town, but definitely the best deal in town. Prices have been slashed 40%, meaning you’ll get a highly acceptable sushi fix for an economy class bill. $ Sushi Teatr (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 4787, www.sushiteatr.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Yoko Sushi (Praga) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, (Promenada Mall, 3rd Floor), tel. 22 611 3535, www.yokosushi.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. With a hip-Japan vibe and a cool factor that if off-the-meter, this is a perfect place for metrosexuals and hip urban couples. $$

JEWISH

Rambam ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 243 2693, www.rambamrestaurant.pl. Open Sun-Fri 11:30-23:00. Kosher-certified, though by no means the exclusive domain of the Israeli coachloads who tour the district. A chic look with Middle Eastern accents is paired off with exotic dishes that include a lamb burger with red onion chutney and mint sauce. $$

LATIN

El Toro Steakhouse ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www. eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there. There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł. 157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00.

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Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. A lasting legend and something of a favorite for after-work informal drinks, though recent reconnaissance has revealed plenty of deficiencies – our burrito was tiny, and not so much over-cooked as blowtorched: if it’d been human, you’d have needed dental records to identify it. Service can be calamitous, making the 10% added to the bill the subject of hot debate. $$

Carmona (B2) ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 1919, www.carmona.pl. Open 8:00-23:00. Set in an increasingly happening section of new money Mokotów, find the daily tapas chalked up on a blackboard inside a modern interior featuring midnight colors and top-to-bottom windows. Worth the look if you’re next door. $ Cuatro Caminos ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 493 8748, www.cuatro-caminos.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Winning blanket approval for what’s sometimes regarded as the best Spanish choice in Warsaw, Cuatro Caminos feature a scattering of selected mains and some excellent tapas in a prime location for an after-work meet. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistentlyinconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$

La Fromagerie Bistro & Deli ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 23 24 Open Mon-Thurs: 9:00-20:00; Fri: 9:00-21:00; Sat: 10:00-21:00; Sun: 11.30 - 16.30

Appearing as a four-sided, truncated pyramid made from raw berrichon goat’s milk, Valencay is indeed a unique cheese. History tells us that the original shape was a perfect pyramid; Napoleon, returning from his disastrous Egyptian campaign, stopped at the castle of Valençay, saw the cheese and in a fit of rage drew his sword and chopped the top off. Needless to say, it was one of Napoleon’s favorite cheeses. Its taste is mellow and savory to the palate and the pate texture is fine-grained and creamy. Find it now available at: La Fromagerie. facebook.com/warsawinsider

RESTAURANTS Both the location and the design have been nailed, and while the salsa lacks teeth, the food is slowly approaching the level set by the more established haunts in the Latin class. Good burgers, as well. $$ Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www.portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www. mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. Nigel Slater recently called Atelier, “the most extraordinary meal of the trip,” and The Guardian’s gastro guru has hit the nail on the head. Find a menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with each course interspersed with occasionally bizarre molecular interludes – you bet we didn’t expect to be served a fizzy aloe leaf. This is Poland’s finest restaurant, and a real contender for the nation’s first Michelin star. Bookings essential. $$$ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold BEST WAWA and black interiors. $$$ 2011 “Business Venue” Winner Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24hr. An eat-while-you-stand venue serving up eight złoty bites specifically designed to act as emergency stomach lining for a pre/postparty crowd of vodka sinking glamour cats. $

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace

(E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch Mon-Fri

12:00-15:00, dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30. The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain

enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Cuda Wianki ul. Przekorna 15 (Powsin), tel. 22 498 1508. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. Standing at the foot of Kabaty Forest, the interiors here are simply adorable, and heavily influenced by folk art. Co-owned by a tennis pro and his parents, this family have sought to develop their own menu, based on standard Polish fare, but with twists and turns they have gathered through prior experience. The results are excellent. $ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even. There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka,

served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 22 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$

Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. Bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing. The menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and those for the dignitaries: the final result though is middle-of-the-road stodge. People – us included – return for the atmosphere rather than the food. $$ Jadalnia Popularna (C2)

Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 22 828 4454. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-17:00. Like a milk bar, only it isn’t. So the food comes out of canteen containers, but it doesn’t stink and it’s served with a smile. Find low-cost Polish eats served around a fun, retro theme to a crowd who wouldn’t be seen dead in the scummy bar mleczny of old. $ Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21. Open 11:006:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed. The menu, designed by TV chef Robert Sowa, is exactly what you’d have found in the old days, and best enjoyed with a cold nip of voddie. $ MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00. Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant

prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva which sources only the finest Polish produce. Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare BEST bricks and violet flourishes. $$$ WAWA 2011 “Address to Impress” Winner Nowa La Boheme (D2) pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0681, www.laboheme.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic interiors are still decidedly continental.

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RESTAURANTS Well-suited for business lunches. $$ Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828 0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland. Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. An extensive repertoire of traditional Polish foods that you know, from Jewish-style carp to duck with apples. The place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The service is mixed, and occasionally hostile, but prices are low. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Polka ( D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful

pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.” $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$

Rozpusta Restauracja Polska (B3) ul. Elektoralna 23, tel. 22 499 5178, www.restauracjarozpusta.pl. Open 12:0023:00. Only seven mains to choose from, but the chef appears a master of them all. Utilizing homemade pates and sauces, the menu involves geese, lamb and a jolly good salmon. They’ve not exactly done anything new, but what they have done, they’ve done it well. $$ Słony (D5) ul. Piękna 11, tel. 22 629 0364. Open Mon-Wed 8:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-23:00. The design is kitsch but classy, with mirrored touches and striped wallpaper set against upside down lamps and nudes of Josephine Baker. Polish canapés costing zł. 8 are stored behind glass counters here, and make for great bargain snacking – the eggplant is delicious. And yes, it’s got Magda Gessler’s name stamped on it. $ Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$ Stary Dom (E12) ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:0023:00. This “old house” serves good old traditional Polish food. The atmospheric main

Discover Restaurants in Warsaw at stolikarnia.pl What do you feel like eating today? Traditional Polish food? Italian specialties? Seafood? Or maybe you feel like fusion cuisine? Stolikarnia.pl offers information about where to find restaurants which will suit your taste as well as provide you with a quick and easy way to book your dinner. All you need to do is log on, choose the restaurant where you want to dine, specify the date and number of diners and your reservation is ready! It's free, fast, simple and ultimately delicious! Discover the best restaurants in Warsaw at Stolikarnia.pl

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WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

RESTAURANTS hall features high ceilings and eye-catching wooden beams; mains include rabbit, duck (the house special) and pork cutlets, while the desserts are divine. What sets this place apart from other Polish restaurants are the prices. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www. uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, XXXL portions at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and pork knuckles. $$ Villa Nuova (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 22 885 1502, www.villanuova.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$ Winiarnia i Gospoda nad Jeziorem (Józefów)

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

ul. Nadwiślańska 96B, tel. 667 770 790, www.nadjeziorem.pl. Open Tues-Fri 14:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. One of our favorite hidden gems for a quaint afternoon or evening away from the city. Just about twenty minutes outside of the center, this lodge-style restaurant specializes in fine wines from Bordeaux and traditional Polish food. $$ Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Wańkowicza 1, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Six Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $ Zwyczjana ul. Wspólna 54, tel. 507 652 596, www.zwyczjana.pl. Open 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. A modern Polish eatery with a blond wood aesthetic accented with dabs of art and bowls of fruit. The food is cheap, cheerful Polish fare, with daily specials posted on their website. It fills the gap if nothing else. $

SEAFOOD Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22

621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS African Shop ul. Wilcza 51, tel. 507 247 292, www.afroeuro. eu. Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection. Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00. Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Cash only, with a second branch in Wilanów (Konstancin, Old Paper Mill, ul. Wojska Polskiego 3, open Sat 10:00-15:00). British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer

has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region. Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:0020:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more. La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned

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and tinned foods from France. Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb. Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available. Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www. maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready BEST meals, confectionary and preserves. WAWA 2011 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner MeiAsia ul. Kilińskiego 3, tel. 22 402 1307,

www.meiasia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. A top Asian spot just off the fringes of Old Town. Featured products from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand and Singapore. Sauces, noodles, snacks and oils, as well as a small stand with fresh fish and seafood. Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices. Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, Sicilian marzipan, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France. Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl

n a country that still views spice with skepticism and suspicion, finding anything on the shop shelves beyond 'spicy ketchup' can be challenging. Sure, you'll find a few fiery sauces tucked away at Kuchnie Świata, but nothing that's a knockout. So behold Ostra Kuchnia, a fine internet store that's a godsend for hotheads. Ok, it's in Polish lingo, but it's easy to navigate the sauces and salsas that have made them famous. These run the range from mild (e.g. Blair's Wasabi Green Tea, Jim Beam BBQ) to super, crippling hot – you'll find some of the hottest sauces known to humanity here, including such labels as Ass Reaper Hot Sauce and Dave's Ultimate Insanity; believe me, I've seen grown men curl up and die within minutes of sampling. Of their other brands, find such luminaries as Mad Dog, Melinda's, Crazy Jerry's etc. And that's not the only condiments you'll find to kick start your summer: extracts, chili peppers, salsas and pastes are all up for sale, as well as a small range of snacks that will have your tonsils exploding. Check the habanero popcorn...

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Reviews: Caffee Galeria Sztuki 69 / Plus:

* 4 updates

CAFES & WINE BARS CAFES 69 / WINE BARS 72

KEY

Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

BOW 2011 Winner............. Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... Child friendly................... Delivery............................. Free wifi.............................. Map location pg 102 ...... (A1) Romantic.......................... Vegetarian friendly...........

CAFÉS 5.29 (D4) ul. Krucza 51 (corner of Widok). Open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Stuffed in an area of 5.29 sq/m, here’s a candidate for Poland’s smallest café. Maybe the world’s. But there’s not just great espresso to knock back while standing, but a great oven knocking out foccacias, bagels and fresh French pastries.

Caffee Galeria Sztuki ul. Ząbkowska 13, tel. 22 619 8109, www.caffee.stanowski.pl. Open 9:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF CAFFEE GALERIA SZTUKI

here’s no point in denying it: Praga is dominated by gritty hipster haunts aimed at and filled with the aforementioned demographic. With that said, discovering Caffee Galeria Sztuki is a pleasant surprise, not to say a breath of fresh air – literally – when compared to the stale smell of Praga’s covert hangouts. Right across the street from the whimsically OTT W Oparach Absurdu, it’s something of a pristine polar opposite of neighboring haunts. Judging by the exterior, it’s easy to dismiss it as another restaurant with, odds are, traditional Polish food. For that reason I almost did, but the blackboard with “crepes” scribbled onto it in chalk (the trademark of Parisian cafés) caught my attention, so I peered inside – it was love at first sight. Located in a restored historic tenement, the interiors are all raw brick, white-washed walls and antique furniture… with price tags attached. That’s because the owners of the café also sell antique furniture and have ingeniously combined the two endeavors by furnishing the interiors with the pieces up for sale – so yes, should you take a liking to the chair you’re sitting on, then by all means, buy it. There’s more reason to visit, as well. Summer brings out Caffee’s true beauty, as well as two delicious versions of summery iced lattes: the divine White Strawberry Chocolate and the Raspberry & Mint Fusion. Neither is food overlooked. The general rule for Warsaw cafes embraces a mantra to, “focus on the coffee and fall short on the food.” Not here. I was pleased to find the choice of foods is as varied as their coffees – from crepes with all kinds of fillings to soups to Italian desserts (tiramisu!) So if you happen to be in Praga, which is likely this June considering the location of the National Stadium, venture out a little deeper into the area and stop by at this unique place - emanating with the style of a stately home it’s a real diamond in the rough. (KK)

Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork. The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high. Aroma ul. Krucza 6, tel. 22 376 5475, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-20:00. An attractive Israeli owned spot with white painted walls and an atmosphere and a busy café atmosphere – hissing coffee contraptions and lively sounds. The sandwiches are nice enough, but we like this place for their other offerings: cinnamon twisters, Belgian waffles and chocolate croissants. Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. Brilliant traditional desserts in a historic location that has a history that spans over a century of fine pastry-making. Also stop by the next-door deli for specialty goods.

Bubble Tea Cup & Go ul. Przeskok 2. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS 11:00-22:00. A bright Vietnamese venture concocting traditional Asian-style bubble tea, as well more European versions.

Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff. Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333,

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Bistro Słony invites you for the best breakfast in Warsaw 8 am-12 noon on weekdays 9 am-4 pm on weekends

We serve breakfast sets and a la carte breakfast. Selection includes: • Eggs Benedict on toast • Croissants and homemade marmalade • Sznytki (canapés) – Słony’s specialty • Gluten free breakfasts Słony, 11 Piękna St. (crossroads of Piękna and Krucza st.) phone: +48 22 629 03 64 www.slony.pl (I recommend it – Magda Gessler)

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the BEST WAWA choice haunt for the in-team. 2011 “Cafe Culture” Winner Cafe Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Filled with bright, primary colors and plenty of armchairs, this two level cafe follows a simple formula. Downstairs, it’s Colombia’s finest (coffee), upstairs it’s cocktails – and very tasty they are. And just to make sure they’ve got all hours covered, there’s food to enjoy either side of your beverages: barramundi, flame-grilled Argie steak etc. Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles. Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115. Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches. Cava (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59, www.cava.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Dreadlocks and piercings are favored attire in C25, an

artsy café with a battered look. Here it’s all sagging sofas and chipped wood tables inside a soothing environment celebrated for its experimental events and anti-establishment vibe. But with their alcohol license suspended, there’s question marks over the future. Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace. Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one. Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic. Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries. Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge!

Klubo Kawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net. Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John

Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience. La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. The coffee is pretty good and all. Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 22 350 7777. Art is a big part here: find rotating exhibits on the walls, and crayons on the tables – find the amusing results on the post-it notes stuck by the door. White and bright, the day’s offer is chalked onto the blackboard. Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals

inspired influenced by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards. Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote.blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior. Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award. Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. Find a painfully vogue crowd comparing boutique buys over gourmet coffee.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D3) Nowy Świat 63, tel. 22 505 6696, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. All life is here, from environmental radicals to theater bigwigs, and while it helps to look like a political activist, it’s become increasingly popular with the more standard Nowy Świat crowd. Lectures, DJs, exhibitions and screenings mean no night is the same. Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead. Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching. Przystanek MDM ul. Waryńskiego 9/1, tel. 509 031 062. Open 7:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00. A retro themed café with its feet firmly planted in the 50s – check out the gaudy PRL armchairs and the giant black and white of pl. Konstytucji. The range of unfiltered local beers makes it that bit more than just a café.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl.Open 8:0021:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries. Szpilka (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 22 628 9132. Open 24hrs. The days when Szpilka stood on the leaderboard of nightlife are long gone, but that’s not to say it’s not worth dropping in. The food osciallates in quality, but the location alone attracts a healthy stream of cafe hoppers and pub crawlers. Sto 900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A fabulous café/restaurant with a spontaneous design that jumbles bricks and wood with mismatched furniture. From the outside, this place looks like the entrance to a squat, so be surprised to learn it’s not just the atmosphere that’s ace. The menu changes daily, but usually involves commendable burgers (with a daring but successful addition of beetroot) alongside more unexpected dishes: e.g. eko-falafel. Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers. Wrzenie Świata (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 7, tel. 22 828 4998. Open daily 9:00-22:00. This café/bookshop doubles as the events room for the Institute of Reportage, so it’s scant surprise to learn the regulars are armed to the teeth with notebooks and macs. Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. Żywiciel (Żoliborz) pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 322 8228, www.zywiciel.pl. Open daily 9:00-23:00. This hipster café has gained a solid following thanks to its broad menu of breakfast choices. Casual, relaxing atmosphere, enhanced by the art hanging on Żywiciel’s brick walls.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

WINE BARS C.K. Oboźna Cafe Bar (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 826 8317. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last guest; Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest. This slick wine bar just off Krakowskie Przedmieście has plumped up its offer with all day breakfasts (zł. 9.90, coffee or tea included) happy hours (12:00-16:00, 19:00-22:00) and sports broadcasts. Great, simple food and excellent wines from Austria and beyond. Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:0022:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine bar. With seating spilling out underneath the colonnades outside, this was easily the hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place BEST WAWA 2011 in Hoxton, London. “Newcomer & People Watching” Winner Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 14:00-22:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European wine makers are impressive and the prices are very decent. Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro characterized by a casual décor and a laid-back atmosphere. Includes a seasonal menu of light dishes. Guccio Domagoj (Żoliborz) ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 392 7438, www.winachorwackie.pl. Open Tues-Sun 12:00-22:00. A sweet and intimate little place run by a charismatic Croatian, who stocks a huge variety of wines from his homeland. Very reasonably priced. Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newlyopened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t

come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours. Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. Les Secrets de Vin ul. Wałęcznych 68, tel. 780 578 571, www.secretsduvin.pl. Open Sun, Tues-Thurs 11:00-20:30; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. A small enterprise run by a pair of wine lovers – one of them, a certified graduate from l’Universite du Vin. The menu comprises of tapas snacks, and they also run wine tasting classes and Mediterranean language courses. Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes. Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, Austria and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats.

Reviews: The British Bulldog 73 Plus:

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NIGHTLIFE BARS & PUBS 73 / CLUBS 79 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 81

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BARS & PUBS Bar 13 with Rene Geoffroy (D4) ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac Department Store). Open 12:00-last guest. Stone walls and metallic seats lend an austere aesthetic to this champagne bar, but that’s recompensed by seriously competitive prices: champers starts at zł. 29 per glass. Found in Poland’s first luxury department store, it’s a logical conclusion to your spending spree. The British Bulldog ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. Open 8:00-1:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

arsaw has had a long and noble association with Irish pubs, some that are still with us and others that have gone: from the murky dungeon spirit of the sadly deceased Morgan’s, to the boisterous Bradley’s that thrives to this day. Mainland Britain, on the other hand, has had short shrift out here. The John Bull(sh!t) chain enjoyed a fleeting presence in the capital, before joyously failing on account of being run a twit, not a Brit. Since their departure it’s been left to Legends to wave the Union Jack: excellent it certainly is, but one pub alone represents a poor return in a capital with a British population that numbers several thousand. So welcome, therefore, The British Bulldog. Rising from the ashes of what was once The London Steakhouse, BB is everything its predecessor wasn’t: authentic, lively and bloody good fun. Not that this should come as a surprise. The man behind it all is Richard Winkler, the brains who created Paparazzi and Porto Praga. But what to expect here? Nothing that came before, that’s for sure. Split in three sections, the first thing to note is the terrace: a long wood-fitted space complimented by its own bar, padded seats and transparent screens to limit street life chancers from harassing you for change. Now, it is on one of Warsaw’s busiest crossroads, so noise should be expected, but so too should traffic of another kind: the two legged sort that looks rather pleasant. A side room, with white wall tiling, red Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors is equally successful. The coup de grace arrives in the shape of the main bar: heaving with wood touches and imported fittings, it looks every inch the real British deal. Neither do food or drink come second. The menu remains a work in progress, but already has the early signs of greatness: full breakfasts, steaks and fish & chips, all served by a team of cat-suited stunners. Drinks, meanwhile, run the gamut from British ales to Guinness. For something stronger, pick not only traditional cocktails and new wave inventions, but also those mixed using beer and Guinness as base ingredients. Served in jam jar style vessels, they’ll knock you for six. And with Sky Sports due to be added by the time we go ‘live’, it’s no surprise to find that ‘dogging’ has now become the pastime of choice for a growing group of ex-pats. (AW)

Bar Tektura (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 22 702 9647. Open 12:00-last guest. Here’s a hyper cool haunt with a look anchored by brick and cardboard as the main decorative element (check the ornamental bison’s head), with additional touches including taps for coat hangers and Banksy-style wall art. And creativity is encouraged among the regulars – find pencils and papers on each table. The ‘Polski tapas’ are great, yet not nearly as good as the Estonian cider. Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, Tel. 504 320 497. Open 24hrs. A new bar inspired by old times. Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval. Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the hits of 2012, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary film posters and some token pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv Cafe across the road). Androgynous staff deal out Lithuanian beer and Lebanese starters from behind a sandbag bar in this standout café-bar.

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NIGHTLIFE Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues. Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Four house lagers served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring blood rose colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), the interiors combine

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well with the copper brewing vats. The food though is amateurish, and at times inedible. Browarmia (C3)  ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. The location alone means it’s never short on footfall. Even so, with Browar de Brasil now open, this microbrewery has slipped further down the local Warsaw beer ladder. Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00 With its harsh lights, white tiles and collapsible tables this could pass for a school canteen – at least it would if the customers weren’t too cool for school. There’s serious posing going on in between drinks, and you’re clearly a no-mark if you weren’t at the launch. Still in their infancy, prepare for teething problems: e.g., running out of lager. Café Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Vast windows, vibrant colors and wide open spaces make it the polar opposite of the covert cocktail dens we usually like. But my God, the drinks here are special. The Chili Manhattan Dream is outstanding, and the Espressotini to die for – and after ordering eight we nearly did. Also on the roster, a range of impressive international beers. Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience. Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754. Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open TuesThurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00. Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00. Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo. Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00. Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its course. Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different. Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism. Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night. Jimmy Bradley’s (C4) Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun

12:00-last guest. The ex-pat world had a minor meltdown this year with the news that landlord Kevin Bradley had left the pub bearing his name. Fortunately, the pub itself is still very much alive, kicking and Warsaw’s best Irish haunt. Along with the new front man come plenty of promises and pledges for more music, more TVs and an atmosphere that’s even more family friendly. Frankly, we don’t care if it’s Al Quaida friendly, so long as they continue the tradition of serving Poland’s best Guinness. Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw. Kosmos Kosmos (D6) ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 602 108 366. Open 11:00-last guest. A large cellar complex decorated with outlandish space murals, orange seats and lego bricks. And in the front, find a kids room complete with a slide. Warsaw’s hipster faction have already attached themselves to it, with the opening drawing a crowd of hundreds milling outside. Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed

Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English. Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest. Lots of middle aged hipsters wearing Teletubby t-shirts here, but they’re easy to ignore after beer No. 5. Touting sixty regional beers, the design doesn’t evolve beyond jam jars for lights and a blackboard for prices – it doesn’t need anything else to work; similar to a backstreet New York dive, it’s got an

effortless cool and a permanent buzz. Meta na Mazowieckiej (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 16/22. Open 11:00-6:00. Filled with Breznev-era leftovers the latest venue from the Meta brand is a larger version of the Foksal original. Posters and vinyl (even a motorbike) from the PRL years decorate the walls, with the bulk of the action taking place in the smoking room in the back. Molly Malone’s (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41, tel. 693 333 954, www.mollymalone.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00. You’re not going to miss it: standing on street level, an elderly gent in top hat and tails waves customers in. Resist. Set over two floors, ground level features a narrow wood carved bar, while upstairs find music paraphernalia, benches and, in our case, a band called Gangbang rehearsing for later. Forget the name, it’s a Polish pub for local students. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps. Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D2) ul. Nowy Świat 63, tel. 509 643 639. Open Sun-Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat, 11:00-5:00. A student heavy, leftist leaning cafe where laptops and portfolios are must have

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NIGHTLIFE accessories. Rumors are though, they’re about to enter a battle with the city to secure their future. Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. Housed on floor 40 of the Marriott Hotel, the Panorama Bar has ditched it’s crass, Dallas style, and gone for a svelte, chic look that wouldn’t be amiss in a VIP club room. A romantic must, and all the better for its dazzling views; you can almost touch the top of the Palace of Culture outside.

Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Engaged in suicidal cocktail consumption along with high rollers and jet set glamor pusses. Slick and sooth, Poland’s first proper cocktail chain continue to set the bar high with excellent drinks and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door. Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest. Decorated in voluptuous Bordeaux colors, the design involves mismatching seats and tiled lampshades, and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives, musicians and other fringe dwellers. A big friendly dog loafing around and improvised music nights round out this Insider legend. And when they say they’re open to last guest, they really do mean it. Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest. Featuring gun-metal grey colors and cool catwalk sounds, this courtyard bar shares space with a design store of the same name: the kind which sells animal print deckchairs and lamps made from Jesus statues. The cocktails are fixed using mad scientist, molecular techniques and include the excellent vodka foam Dr. Collins Killer. Pijalnia (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19A, tel. 796 110 000. Open 24hrs. For a contrived look at what drinking was like in Warsaw, circa 1980, a trip to Pijalnia is a must. Bow tied staff serve vodka shots and pickles from behind a tiled bar, to a crowd that gets younger as the day grows older. In design terms it’s the polar opposite of Sense next door, but claims a similar crowd as the night hits fever pitch. In quieter times, checks the newspapered walls to read up on commie sports reports.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it. Pochwała Niekonsekwencji ul. Grójecka 118, tel. 22 823 1898. Open 10:00-1:00. As avant-garde as they come, you’d expect this sort of place in Praga, not the heart of Ochota. Filled with dog-eared books and contemporary art you’ll find the day’s offers chalked on the blackboard; among them, gourmet beers from obscure, offbeat breweries. Porto Praga (F1) ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www. portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.Some of Poland’s best cocktails knocked up by acrew of pros who know their trade inside out.Looking slinky smooth, PP is a one-stop destination: a top restaurant and bar shaken into one. Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am. Pub Lolek (B8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:0003:00. The outdoor patio is packed in the summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling, while in winter a basic timber interior fills out come weekends. Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the best designs of 2011, with pretty much all interior features made from reusable materials: seats from shopping trolleys, tables from street signs and a bar from books. Shame about the one dimensional beer choice, therefore. Saturator (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 504 353 7772, www.saturator.art.pl. Open 19:00-last guest. Dirty and daring, nights at Saturator start off

quiet before erupting into a full-on party for people of all proclivities. Definitely gives you a taste of Warsaw’s naughty side, with music coming courtesy of figures like DJ Ladyboy and Electrohell. Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. Design elements include natural stone and cool lighting, though the real draw are the drinks: don’t be swayed by the nay’sayers, Sense is still top of the tree when it comes to Poland’s best cocktails. BEST WAWA 2011 “Cocktails” Winner Sketch (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors. SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 22 450 6707. Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. SPE have a new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs. Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Sun-Thur 15:0023:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-1:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers (e.g. Stare Misto from Ukraine), while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass. Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit. Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www. syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00;

Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Created by the same chaps behind the cult Warszaswa Powisle, SS is everything that the former isn’t. Set inside a 70s concrete monster this retro affair guns for a more seasoned, affluent crowd with an over 21 door policy and 80 types of whisky that range from the Welsh Penderyn and the Japanese Hibiki. Expect the bank balance to take a mauling: fifty złoty for a Lynchburg lemonade warrants a public enquiry. Szparka (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370.

Open 24hrs. It looks like a generic, city center bar, and while no longer a hip, happening haunt it’s as popular as ever with a middleaged crowd. Set on numerous levels, its open hours alone demand Szparka’s inclusion to any Going Out list. Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong

group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world. Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.Located in a former ticket shack, this place is all PRL concrete and peeling signage. Looking cheap and chipboard, visual diversions are limited to frayed posters promoting upcoming bands. Instead, the eye candy comes in the form of the people.

THE MAYOR

three countries, so this should give us a huge home field advantage. For the record, this unofficial Mayor is predicting Poland will go through. In the meantime, I’ve taken the liberty of preparing Warsaw for the influx of tourists by sending out a strongly worded memo to many of the locals: shops will have plenty of change, they will accept multiple currencies and offer service with a smile; taxi drivers will shower daily for the duration of the tournament and have agreed not to rip-off drunk tourists; homeless bums will cease begging at the outdoor cafes on Nowy Świat; and smelly drunks will abandon their much needed presence as public parking attendants. Fat Chance! Alas, you don’t come to The Mayor for petty tourist advice, you come here for vice-advice. Where are the girls? Where are the parties? But mostly, where are the girls?

NOWY ŚWIAT

THE BEST OF WARSAW

The plethora of bars, coffee houses and restaurants around Nowy Świat and Foksal are always buzzing with hot chicks at all times of the day – it is the “go-to” destination spot, when you don’t have a destination. There are the Pavilions, which are a low rent collection of cheap beer and hookah lounges hidden behind a stretch of prime Nowy Świat real estate (behind Subway). More upmarket, on the corner of Foksal, you have CAVA, one of the best viewing spots in the city. Grab a table here and you won’t be disappointed. Across the street is FLOW, which offers the same “fashion catwalk” experience. Life is grand! Further down Foksal visit Theatro and Sketch. Theatro is a fusion restaurant up top which morphs into 18/11 Club downstairs, later in the evening. Sketch is the best place round these parts to catch a match, and upstairs attracts so much young tail, your head will spin. If you come upon a Warsaw Black event, take it as a sign from the Party Gods that you are in the right place. Warsaw Black throws gigs at DeLite also, which is another great party spot.

WARSAW’S BOURBON STREET

Mazowiecka has pound for pound the most clubs in any one block stretch in Warsaw. If you are looking for a night out, you can’t go wrong by heading here. Perennial favorite Paparazzi draw in the early crowds almost every night. Organza left their digs on Ordynacka Monty Python and the Holy Grail Street and has set up shop right between super clubs Enklawa and Bank Club. Enklawa gets my vote for best pick-up spot in the city, and just last week I stumbled into his is it Warsaw! It’s our moment to ‘The Hottest Girl in Poland Contest’ at the Bank; I managed shine!! Thousands upon thousands to make a withdrawal and a deposit! If that is not enough, of people will stream into Warsaw to throw in one of those cheap 4 złoty shot bars that are witness the greatest spectacle of the ages, spouting up all over the city, a couple strip clubs with Libido the UEFA European Football Championships, and Coyote and you can’t go wrong. a.k.a. Euro 2012. The taxis line the streets here, because they know this Poland (and Warsaw) finds itself in Group A, is the epicenter of nightlife in Warsaw. For a mere 20 zlots, along with Greece, Czech Republic and Russia. they will whisk you away to any of the other top clubs in the We can’t count on many tourists from those city such as The Eve, Platinium, Opera, Capital or Space.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

“I fart in your general direction. Your mother was a hamster and your father smelt of elderberries.”

Wiatraki (D4) ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 828 4034. Open daily 11:00-22:00. A backstreet, Dutch-owned haunt where great snacks and sandwiches are overshadowed only by the beer – find a series of gourmet Benelux beers inside this friendly, two-floor operation. Zmysły (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 20, tel. 662 635 552. Open 10:00-22:00. A pint of Perła for zł. 6.50? We’ll have ten. Hitting that half-ground between restaurant and pub, Zmysły reminds of an upscale country pub. Dark woods, vaulted brick ceilings, candles: it’s got atmosphere in abundance. Low prices keep it popular with a studenty crowd. Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

CLUBS 1500m2 (F4) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. The most talked about dance space of 2010, and further evidence that Warsaw is catching up with Berlin when it comes to urban cool. Decorated with graffiti squiggles and industrial leftovers this warehouse space has acquired a name for dusk-till-dawn electro events. 18/11 Club by Theatro (E4) ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open Wed-Sat 18:00-6:00. A neon-lit basement space with smashed-glass surfaces and exotic undertones. Expect a top-dollar crowd slinking to the sounds of a bloke called Nobis. Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. A massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, over-the-top décor and regal staircases. Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events.

DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored. Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but every weekend, it manages to draw in big crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits. The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room.

rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucereyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience. Your head will hate you.

Organza (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 662 291 891. The address is everything in Warsaw, which is why you’ll find Organza moving approximately fifty meters from Sienkiewciza to Mazowiecka. With the number of clubs now reaching critical mass here, Organza still stands out

NEW GENTLEMAN’S CLUB IN WARSAW!

Hunters’ (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 606 393 540, www.huntersclub.pl. Open 22:00-6:00. Rising from the ashes of what was once Utopia is Hunters’, a high-end venue whose entry policy is every bit as daunting as that of the prior occupants. Aimed at a glam, fox-tailed crowd, this basement dance zone features factory grey colours interspersed with murals of tux-clad deer and ornamental mirrors. With nights like Gay Cum Back, it’s very much the VIP gay/straight/confused venue of choice. Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin. Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luzztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Then check Luzztro, a grim, grotty den where

Kredytowa 9, Warszawa 00-056 Open 21:00 - 5:00 22 828 23 07 www.libidoklub.pl info@libidoklub.pl

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NIGHTLIFE with late, late nights and a door policy slightly more relaxed than its neighbors. Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine. Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:006:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:00-6:00. A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks. Sqandal Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, tel. 602 876 776, www.sqandalbar.pl. Open Tues-Thurs 19:002:00; Fri-Sat 19:00-5:00. Jiggle under disco lights alongside buffed boys with their chest puffed out. Over the top glittery interiors compliment the pink and proud crowd.

Utopia (D3) ul. Kredytowa 9. Formerly of Jasna, Warsaw’s first club to bring in serious door selection is back, and this time within a throw of the main party drag. Flying under a pseudo pink banner, it’s a love or loathe venue full of A-Z list stars and their hangers on – yep, it’s as artificial as you can get. Opened as we went to press, we’re back next issue with the lowdown.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS Coyote (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.coyotebar.eu. Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and a just-about-larger room outback. Stage action is tame, and doesn’t get all that much better behind the curtain.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Libido ul. Kredytowa 9, www.libidoklub.pl. It’s practically round the corner from the Zachęta Gallery, though you’ll probably enjoy the masterpieces here more. Run by the same team behind Sofia, this three floor mega club makes use of a location just up from Warsaw’s favorite upmarket party street: Mazowiecka. New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00. High rollers looking to clinch in a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a ‘gentleman’s club’ with a seriously upmarket VIP dining area. Dishes include red tuna steak (zł. 199), Kobe beef (zł. 999), and French lobster (zł. 299). $$$ Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.com. pl. Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians. Seventh Sense (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 795 124 646. Strip clubs are a dime a dozen in Wa-wa

nowadays, so to stand from the crowd you need something different – how about a jacuzzi room? Or a yellow ‘bar bus’ kitted out with lap dancing poles. Gimmicks aside, having a intimate, luxury atmosphere helps their cause, as does the requisite line-up of centerfold candidates. Sin ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, www.sinclub. com.pl. One of the biggest and best dance stables in town offers a pleasingly international line-up that demonstrates a serious recruitment drive. You won’t find a more central strip club in town. Sofia ul. Polna 13, www.klubsofia.pl. A.k.a The Bulgarian Embassy, Sofia have rebuilt the reputation earned during their city center heyday in the naughty noughties. Sure, the atmosphere is more restrained than in their former location, but the dancers aren’t. Sogo (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.sogoclub.pl. The neon lit exterior would dazzle from space. Inside, find a vast strip club that opens up over a couple of floors. Dancers are in plentiful supply, with several resembling fallen angels. The bouncers are less approachable and don’t tolerate monkey business – tread carefully.

7TH SENSE WBC GENTLEMAN’S CLUB • Only club in Warsaw with Jacuzzi room • Open every day from 8 PM till last guest • We organize bachelor parties, stag nights and hen night Żurawia 22, Warsaw 514-910-323

Reviews: See Me Boutique 81 Plus:

* 1 update

SHOPPING

ACCESSORIES 83 / FASHION 81 / HOME DECOR 83 / SHOPPING MALLS 84

Insider’s Pick

FASHION Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00. This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix.

See Me Boutique ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 0404, www.facebook.com/seemebtq. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY AGNIESZKA LENART

t seems like this spring high-fashion boutiques are blooming, with at least one hot new shop opening each month. See Me is my latest find, spotted once again as I was strolling ul. Mokotowska on my way home from work. It’s located in a space formerly selling quaint Polish fashion, right next to one of the most beautiful apartment houses in Warsaw, and the bright, elegant interiors are a welcome change from the dank dwelling that came before; especially since it’s filled with some really major pieces from American and European designers. I was delighted to spot the Paul & Joe collection on the main floor, with all its fine tailoring and whimsical prints, eyeing one paint splash-print silk blouse in particular. Then there was Tibi, which I’m not as familiar with, but which is certainly impressive with its fine baby-pink blouses in translucent silk and animal-print gowns with a smattering of gold spangles. The orange shift and raspberry day dress are also a bright alternative to everyday basics. Upstairs you can also find the Olsen twins’ successful Elizabeth and James line, with daring Miami-inspired prints and pastel basics. The downstairs offers a concise selection of shoes that hit on all the trends, without overstepping its bounds, plus a few bags from Paul & Joe and the DKNY Pure collection. Here’s where it gets a bit confusing as personally I find the inclusion of DKNY in such a crisp collection a bit incongruous though it does, I suppose, offer a slightly more affordable price point as most of the other items are priced between zł. 1,000-2,500. Again, not cheap, but certainly worth every złoty. The blandness of the DKNY collection is saved by the perpetually-perfect Joseph collection of cashmere basics and their famous trousers. Orange makes a splash again with a wonderfully delicate cashmere sweater, perfect for chilly summer evenings, which I just may have to splurge on (price tag: zł. 1,000). All in all, it’s the perfect source for the right summer outfits: whether it’s a low-key picnic or a snazzy wedding reception. (AL)

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Labels inc. Prada, Smith, McCartney and more. Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, www.zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the welldressed man, from suits to belts, sportswear and cologne. Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. This concept store, now re-opened on ul. Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on ul. Mokotowska.

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SHOPPING Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season,

this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one. L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www.loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. High quality menswear from premium labels such as Pointes & Coutures, Brunello Cucinelli and Cerruti 1881. Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. The Luxury bar on ul. Nowy Świat went bankrupt in about a minute. But its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre. While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip. Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom. Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759 ul. Żurawia 2, tel. 22 628 2217 snob@snobissimo.pl, www.snobissimo.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Deha, Gianvito Rossi, Sona Rykiel, Les Copains, Paule Ka, Jimmy Choo, Giuseppe Zanotti, Wolford, Sergio Rossi

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@ plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Reykjavik District (F4) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it. Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up. Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www. snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

ACCESSORIES Batycki (various locations) ul. Zgoda 9 & ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel), tel. 22 828 2167, www.batycki.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00. Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite. Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503,

www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Viennabased jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. Hublot Boutique (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 821 0101. This luxury boutique features the most coveted timepieces in all the world. Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, www.lilou.pl. Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

The only organic market in Warsaw

Fresh fruit and vegetables Dairy products, free range eggs Bread and pastry Meat, poultry and cold meats Wine and beer Cosmetics and cleaning products

Pracovnia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, tel. 622 12 12, www.pracowniaczasu.pl. Luxury watches from brands like Corum, Vulcain, Ulysee Nardin, Magellan and Fortis.

HOME DECOR Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home. ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. www.egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in English is available.

CERTIFIED ORGANIC PRODUCTS Warszawa Żelazna 51/53 (former Norblin factory) every Saturday 8:00-16:00 ECO EVENTS! EVERY FIRST SATURDAY OF THE MONTH WE EXCHANGE ELECTRO WASTE FOR ECO GIFTS! payment in cash or by card (on selected stands) free parking for clients

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SHOPPING MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm. Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche. Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339; ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. 22826 0008. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00. www.redonion.pl.Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Scandinavian Living ul. Górnośląska 33, tel. 22 629 0361, www.scandinavianliving.pl. Furniture, home design and fashion from Scandinavian brands such as Swedese, Odd Molly, Bloomingville and Marimekko.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Fashion House Outlet Centre (E8) ul. Puławska 42E, www.fashionhouse.pl Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15,Open Mon-Thurs 9:0021:30, Fri 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00

Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc… Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

Reviews: Kosmos Kosmos 85 / Plus:

* 2 updates

CHILDREN ACTIVITIES 85 / CAFES 86 / EDUCATION 86

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl. A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered. Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

Kosmos Kosmos ul. Koszykowa 55, www.kosmoskosmos.pl. Open 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-last guest.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

uring June we’re going to be hard pushed to avoid the little matter of an international football tournament taking over our city. But whilst my husband has ensured himself a front row seat watching every football match at Warsaw’s Tortilla Factory, I have found a city center place that offers an escape from football mania. Its name: Kosmos Kosmos. Think retro meets rock; upon entering this den it is impossible not to feel like you’ve been rocketed to another planet. Be it the surreal mural by graffiti artist Swanksy which creates a powerful sense of movement, the Super Mario lego bar, or the menu with its Venus and Mars Salads, it has to be said the owners Karolina and Kazio have succeeded in creating an experience that can only be described as extraterrestrial. Its café, bar and nightclub is ticking all the boxes for everyone from the business man, with an zł. 18 daily two course lunch menu, students who can lap up the culture, lounge and listen to live bands and DJ sets, to babies who can explore the colorful, spacious children’s area with its handmade puppet theatre, cardboard castle and enticing healthy kids menu. This place is so child friendly, not only do they offer fun workshops on noon each Saturday, but the owner has the most amazing portrait tattoo on her arm designed by her very own little tot! How’s that for dedication to children’s creativity! Despite its city center location it still boasts a leafy terrace facing onto ul. Koszykowa. A large figure of an astronaut strumming on a guitar, the logo for this hip hang-out, compliments the retro outdoor furniture and prolongs the sense of escape: ‘Planet No Football’ perhaps? And, as someone married to a Dutchman there is one more reason to give this place a thumbs up; the predominant color in the children’s area is orange, therefore when the match is over and my husband comes looking for me with his fluorescent oversized cowboy hat and boa, his football supporter persona can be perfectly camouflaged. (GBB)

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym. Over 300 locations worldwide, with the first one in Poland opened last November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Manufatura Cukierow ul. Tamka 49, www.manufaktura-cukierkow. pl. Sweet making courses in a confectionary factory! Lessons are conducted in Polish, though enthusiasm is more important than a mastery of the language.

Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.com. A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web. Patataj ul. Krótka 9, www.patataj.com. Patataj offer riding lessons and pony trekking

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CHILDREN in a scenic location 25 mins from Warsaw. Polish is the mother tongue here, but actions speak louder than words where riding is concerned. Finish the day in the karczma. Teatr Guliwer ul. Różana 16, www.teatrguliwer.waw.pl. Well worth a visit, even for non-Polish speakers. An exciting colorful premises with creative costumes make this the choice place to introduce the kids to theater. Tramwaj Wodny www.zegluga-stoleczna.pl. One of the few boats to be seen on the river chugs up and down the Wisła from May onwards. The crew, dressed in pirate-like stripes, are even happy to let the children have a tug on the wheel. Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, www.zoo.waw.pl. The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’. This year though, all eyes are on three tiger cubs born in Feb.

CAFES Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, figazmakiem.edu.pl. One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while

your little ones romp in the kids room.

An organic menu and a gated play area equipped with slides, rope bridges and a selection of Wendy houses mark out Pompon, while the Nintendo Wii room is as popular with dads as it is with their lads.

Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials. Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space. My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, www.mybabycafe. pl. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums. Pompon (Wola) ul. Młynarska 13, www.pompmart.pl.

Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, www.nowakuznia.pl. In the seasonal garden, the sandpit comes with a kid-sized bulldozer that makes you wish you were a munchkin again. For the colder temperatures, check out the indoor play area. The kids menu equally impresses. Numery Litery (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, www.numerylitery.pl. Deep sofas aside, compact Numery Litery gets it right with a gargantuam selection of books to inspire your budding bookworm to literary greatness. Plenty of reading matter for the adults, as well.

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob. 502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl. This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English. They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

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Parent/Child Classes

Pre-school

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Primary School Gymnastics

Holiday Camps

Birthday parties

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777; ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281; www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school. Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@ canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in

the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy. eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse. com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com. Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers

SCHOOLS

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@ aswarsaw.org, www. aswarsaw.org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18. The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281,

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CHILDREN british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244. The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international

staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300. The Middle and

High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@canadian-school.pl. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 1499. Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75, tel. 22 842 4448, ies@ies-warsaw.pl. In operation since 2002 the International European School teaches the Polish National Curriculum in English language to both primary and mid-school level.

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods. La Fontaine Polish-French Primary School ul. Okrężna 95, Mokotów, tel. 22 885 0020, www.lafontaine.edu.pl. The school has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching for children aged from 6 to 12 years old. Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Reviews: Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej 89 / Plus:

* 3 updates

LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 89 / COMMUNITY 95 / FITNESS 93 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 92 / MEDICAL 94 / TRANSPORTATION 91

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities.

Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572, www.sztukarowerowa.pl.

PHOTOGRAPH BY AGNIESZKA LENART

have a confession to make. I did something really terrible this winter, something unforgivable. I left my beloved bicycle outside in the rain, sleet and snow all winter. I passed it every blizzardy afternoon with a lump of guilt in my throat, watching veins of rust take over the silver surface. All because my trusty Gazelle is just too heavy to lug up the stairs. I had no choice, I tell you. So by the time spring rolled around I decided to face the music and see what damage the Polish winter had done to my only set of wheels in this city. The chain was so rusty it had jammed and some thugs had done a number on my light. It was time for some doctoring. There are a couple of straight bike repair shops in the city, but the one on Widok - the names translates to Gallery of Bicycle Art - is pretty special. It looks like a time warp; a vintage interior filled with antiques and all the weirdest, most wonderful bicycles you can imagine. It was set up in 2007 by a bunch of dudes who wanted to run a bicycle repair/rent/buy shop combined with a music room/gramophone repair/vinyl shop and café/chillout spot. An ambitious aim, but I think they’ve nailed it as this is the spot most Varsovians head to when they need a tweak or a whole new deal. Aside from doing repairs, they buy vintage bikes and ‘pimp’ them up, so you’ll find a range of funky Gazelles, Hollenders and Batavus wheels that are definitely hipster approved. Plus they play awesome music. I admit, I was a bit afraid that my Gazelle might get lost in the muddle of all those other bikes, but they knew exactly which one it was and where to find it. Marcin pointed out all the adjustments they’d made, let me have a test run, and I was back on my ride in no time. This really is a great place to rent bikes for tourists in town for just the weekend, hence great for those visiting for the Euros, or for hanging out with a beer in the music room soaking up the hippie spirit of this place. (AL)

Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services. Offical base of Poland’s Euro 2012 football team. InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor. Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna. Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

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LIFESTYLE Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł. 528 (weekdays), zł. 376 (weekend). Gym and swimming pool. The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. 24-hour fitness centre for guests only. Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw,

tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna. Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public. Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl. Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł. 279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square. For cheaper alternative, check their downtown hostel branch, the Oki Doki Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł. 299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room.

Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests.

Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €78-112.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki, www. hiexpress.com. Three minutes from the airport, the Express chapter of Holiday Inn is opening on 30 November and already accepting bookings. Check web for further details.

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60-235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only. Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic

WARSAW INSIDER | JUNE 2012

Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included.

Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com. Single and double rooms: zł.265-480. Wellness centre and sauna.

3-star hotels

4-star hotels

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend).

Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www. reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł. 250 (weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included. Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

APARTMENTS

Central Apart ul. Łucka 2/4/6 m.45, tel. 22 357 0975,

www.wawahotele.pl. Apartments for one to four people in locations across town. Prices from zł. 190. InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana. A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays. P & O Apartments ul. Kasprowicza 91, tel. 22 636 8699, www.pandoapartments.com.pl. Top One Apartments ul. Graniczna 4, tel. 608 205 769, www.topnoclegwarszawa.pl.

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3. Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl. Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789.

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077. Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients. CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl.

Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com.

Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539,

AGS Warsaw

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LIFESTYLE www.expressrelocations.com. Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl. Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. Some 47 offices in 35 countries which facilitate easing the transition across borders.

tel. 22 19625 tel. 22 19644

Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com. Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Volfra Wawa

TAXIS

SPAS & SALONS

Bayer tel. 22 19697 City Taxi tel. 22 19459 Ele Taxi tel. 22 811 11 11 Glob Taxi tel. 22 19668 Grosik Taxi tel. 22 6464646 tel. 22 677 7777 Merc Sawa tel. 22 644 4444 Super Taxi tel. 22 19622

HEALTH & BEAUTY AcuMed Asian Therapies ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100, www.tuina.pl. Qigong – Daoyin – Meditation in small groups. Also offers special exercises for improving physical & mental health and increasing energy. Beauty Secret/Spa/Retreat ul. Nowowiejska 38, Józefów, tel. 22 789 2016, www.beautysecret.pl. Located about 20 km outside of Warsaw, Beauty Secret is the place to go and recharge your batteries, relax and get pampered.

BB Clinic ul. Grzybowska 3 (center), tel. 22 403 65 72, www.bbclinic.pl. An array of body and beaity treatments inside pristine five star facilities. Whether you want to slim down using the latest technologies, rejuvenate the skin or relax during a massage, there’s few better qualified. 10% for Insider readers. Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Koszykowa 31, tel. 22 621 1404, www. nailspabiosis.pl. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hitech nail discoveries. BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160, www.bodyclinic.pl. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. Club Oasis Spa Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is definitely one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw. Amazing Clarins body firming and rejuvenating treatments, deep tissue massage and luxurious La Prairie facial treatments at the beauty centre round out a healthy lifestyle. The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant

WARSAW INSIDER | JUNE 2012

polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-ofthe-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed. Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher East, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage, as well as all the other more typical spa services. Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331 0808, www.diorinstitut.com. This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs. Fabryka Próżnosci ul. Cecylii Śniegockiej 8 lok.101, tel. 22 312 1909, www.fabrykaproznosci.pl. Has a full suit of facials, massages (all the main schools are represented); competitive prices, and plenty of English-speaking therapists. Fish Spa ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 414 3737, www.fishspainstytut.pl. Let 200 Garra Rufa fish do the work on your pedicure and manicure. Alternatively, enjoy more traditional (ie. less fishy) facials and body massages – all at reaonable prices in the heart of the center.

Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages. Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, www.jejijego.pl. Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

Sungate Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

FITNESS CLUBS

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance. Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel (E8) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes in one of Warsaw’s

Ren Clinic is a modern clinic specializing in the field of surgical care cosmetics, medical dermatology and aesthetic medicine.

Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288, www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense with the farce and make your hair look great. They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee. Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 22 827 7195, www.repechage.net.pl. A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatment for the whole body. Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428. This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. Multico Wellness & Spa ul. Bitwy pod Rokitną 1 (in Old Żoliborz), tel. 22 869 9631, www.multico.pl. A modern fitness center and gorgeous pool make this a chic place to work out and relax. Now offers spa services and great massages.

We offer: • Laserotherapy

• Removal of stretch marks • Shallowing acne and traumatic scars

• Wrinkle removal • Closing deep vassels • Laser hair removal • Endermology • Aesthetic Medicine

- Wrinkle Removal using a Palomar Star Lux 500 - Special offer AndreZadozda: - 50% for Endremolit face treatment and body treatments including an hour-long body massage al. gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A tel. 22 414 2222, www.renclinic.pl facebook.com/warsawinsider

LIFESTYLE best five stars. zł.100 per day. Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel (E5) ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton. com/warsaw. Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna. Price: zł. 3,420/year. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 630 6306, www.holmesplace.pl. Premium fitness and leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates two more Energy Clubs in Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia.

ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100. www.tuina.pl. Holistic treatment of spinal, headaches, stress, pains, allergies. Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654 2116, www.austriadent.pl.

ARUMED Arumed Oriental Medical Center, ul. Noakowskiego 8, tel. 22 825 93 96. The OMC doctors offer acupuncture, acupressure, herbal medicines, and medical massage for complete health.

Centrum Pomocy Profesjonalnej (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 80, floor 21, room 129, Babka Tower, tel. 22 637 4080; ul. Puławska 257 (floor 1, suite 71), Melody Park, tel. 22 241 2444, www.cpp.eu.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl. Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

Dentalux ul. Racławicka 131, tel. 22 823 7222, www.dentalux.pl.

Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian.com.pl.

RiverView Wellness Centre at the InterContinental Hotel (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8640, www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the pool offers a glorious panoramic view of the city.

Margaret Rybak, Psy.D. ul. Lipska 27/24. US-trained doctoral level psychologist. APA member. Specialises in individual psychotherapy for adults and children. For more information: www.mrybak.waw.pl, mob. 606 518 151.

Citident ul. Młynarska 26/28, tel. 22 862 4770, www.citident.pl.

World Class Health Academy (B4) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, www.worldclass.pl. Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00. Situated inside Warsaw’s Marriott hotel, this gym offers all the fitness services you need.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A, tel. 22 414 2222, www. renclinic.pl. Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more.

MEDICAL MEDICALPRIVATE CLINICS

AcuMed Asian Therapies – Traditional Medicine Clinic

Well Now Dental Clinic (Wilanów) ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 2A, tel. 22 403 8800, www.wellnow.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-20:30, Sat 9:30-14:30.

PRIVATE CLINICS

Enel-Med Medical Centre Atrium Plaza, Al. Jana Pawła II 29; Arkadia (A1), Al. Jana Pawła II 82; Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179; www.enel.pl For an appointment: tel. 22 311 7777. Eurodental ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 22 857 0088, www.eurodental.pl. Lim Medical Center Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5), ul. Domaniewska 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78, tel. 22 458 7000, www.cmlim.pl. Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl. Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900, www.medicover.com. Vertebralia ul. Postępu 6, tel. 22 449 2828, www.vertebralia.pl. A clinic specializing in the integrated treatment of all kinds of spinal illness. With 20 years of experience, they perform innovative treatments with state-ofthe-art equipment.

WARSAW INSIDER | JUNE 2012

24-HOUR PHARMACIES

Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54 Al. Solidarności 149, tel. 22 620 0818. ul. Wilcza 31, tel. 22 834 5804. ul. Puławska 39

COMMUNITY Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Meetings take place on ul. Radna, buzzer #3. Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat 11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month). American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs supporting vital needs in our host country. For more information: info@afw.waw.pl.

well as sneaking a peak at the photo journalism of key practitioner, Sabina Steckiewicz’s travels around India. Find out more at: www.dharmayoga.pl. English Speaking Book Club We meet once a month in Ganders Teahouse (ul. Francuska 12). The meetings provide a good opportunity for stimulating discussions and for those new to Warsaw - a chance of meeting people in a very relaxed setting. There are no membership fees. For more info, contact: marzena.reich@gmail.com. The English-Speaking Expatriate Business Owners in Poland Association This non-profit association serves a niche group of expatriates within the framework of “expat CEOs helping expat CEOs without business competition getting in-between.” For further information, please contact Richard Whipple (Founder), tel. 504 346 406.

Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, 1st floor; tel/fax: 22 827 6000; e-mail: amnesty@ European Social Democrats in Poland amnesty.org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 Contact Tim Clapham at tel. 22 624 0470, timclapham@poczta.onet.pl or Jean-Yves 0000 0000 0959 0181. Leconte at mob. 0604 960 555, jy.leconte@ Art Friends’ Society assemblee-afe.fr. For info, contact Justyna Napiórkowska: The Ex-Animo Foundation e-mail: justyna@napiorkowska.pl, An organization that helps care for young mob. 603 378 567. cancer patients at the Children’s Memorial Blanc Lys (Wola) Health Institute - the largest children’s ul. Księcia Janusza 23, tel. 508 162 810, oncology center in Poland. www.exanimo.pl. www.blanc-lys.com. The first self-service Expats-in-Poland.com laundromat in Warsaw, open daily 08:00Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive 20:00. Free wi-fi.

Increase your strength and flexibility

Move ahead – contact us at: www.gyrotonic.com 698 88 77 60, ilyadanse@gmail.com www.cluboasis.pl 22 851 05 63, cluboasis@cluboasis.pl

Bread of Life (Chleb Życia) ul. Nowogrodzka 6, www.chlebzycia.org.pl. Sells items made by both the homeless and women fleeing domestic violence. If you’re interested in the work of the Bread of Life, or would simply like to sponsor a student, email Elizabeth via iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com. Cumann Warszawa Gaelic Football Team Poland’s first Gaelic football team is up and running. The club offers weekly training, competitive games against other European GAA opposition and regular social events and is open to players and members from all nationalities. For more information contact Eoin 518 425 587 or cumannwarszawa@gmail.com. Dharma Yoga in English. It’s well worth visiting the English/ Polish website for more information on the specific practices of this type of yoga, the offers at hand for first-time students as

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LIFESTYLE information and services for foreigners including immigration, work permits, driving licences, renting and buying properties, healthcare, education and more. For more information: www.expats-in-poland.com. Expatriates Services PFF ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. Services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence & work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information: tel. 22 828 1501, www.pff-warsaw.com. Food Banks All thirty food banks operating in Poland deliver food aid to those in need – as many as 5 million people. To donate food or get involved go to www.bankizywnosci.pl. Foundation for Poland This is a charity organization that reaches out to street children and other youths. They also manage a number of other projects. For more information: www.fdp.org.pl. Friends Creative Activities ul. Przyczółkowa 334, tel. 22 642 0843, www.friends-ca.pl.Handicraft workshops for both kids and adults alike. Come and visit our world of creative activities and share your passion with us... Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium,

WARSAW INSIDER | JUNE 2012

ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, New Europe Writers Ink (D5) A fellowship of writers creating poetry and mob. 502 198 782. prose fiction in English. For more information: Fundacja Dziecięca Fantazja ul. Marszałkowska 80, mailbox 151, editor@ Poland’s own “Make-A-Wish Foundation” focus new-ink.org, www.new-europe-writers-ink.com. to “light up the lives” of terminally-ill children in Poland by making their fondest wishes and Pol-in.pl – Professional Expat Assistance Information and services for foreigners dreams come true. More info at: such as: residence permit, visas, work permit, email: info@f-df.pl, www.f-df.pl. real estate, money transfer (Western Union), Fundacja Świętego Mikołaja car rental and more. Info: www.pol-in.pl. ul. Przesmyckiego 40, Piaseczno, tel. 22 825 Professionals in Warsaw 0390. The St. Nicholas Foundation has been Hosts meetings in the city to link up professioncontributing funds to needy children and als, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the families for over ten years. To support the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 foundation, wire funds to Volkswagen Bank 535 566) or the group page on Facebook. Polska S.A. 64 2130 0004 2001 0299 9993 0001 (KRS 0000126602). www.mikolaj.org.pl. St. Patrick’s Foundation International Rotary Club www.irishball.pl. The Irish Ball, held on the The only English speaking Rotary Club in Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendWarsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join ary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the weekly meetings held at the Polonia Palace the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45. For info: tel. 601 which distributes the funds raised to various 897 731. charities over the course of the year. International Women’s Group of Warsaw Talizman Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers The Talizman Foundation is a non-profit cultural, educational and recreational registered charity. More information: www. activities. Meetings aheld on the second and talizman.org. fourth Monday of the month. For more info email Taste of the Classics iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com. A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) fine art and dinner entertainment, held Offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more regularly in prime locations. The events information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, alternate between formal and semi-formal akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl. dress and are held in English. Attendance is

by invitation and includes dinner and wine. To request an invitation or for further information please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353. Toastmasters International (E5) Toastmasters Polska club invites all to the weekly meetings, to master the art of Public Speaking and presentation skills. Meetings every Wednesday at 19.00 in the Warsaw Stock Exchange, Catalyst room 1st floor, ul. Książęca 4. Guests are most welcome with no commitment other than a short introduction. More info at toastmasters.org.pl or ring Etan at tel. 696 292 451. TravelFriends.pl TravelFriends.pl is a community travel portal designed for anyone who’s up for meeting new people, whether it’s searching for travel companions or roommates, finding a partner, spicing up your free time, or just widening your circle of friends. For further information, contact Beata Sieradzka at info@ travelfriends.pl, Visit their website at www. travelfriends.pl. Warsaw Beavers Warsaw’s first expatriate ice hockey team trains Thursday and Sunday nights. For more information, contact Randy Gabrielson 606 247 347 or e-mail to: warsawbeavers@gmail.com. The Warsaw School of Photography A leading private institution in Poland offering photography courses in English for beginners and intermediate. For more information: www.wsfoto.art.pl/english.

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629 9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offering a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals. Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 501 299 338, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: info@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company or other convenient locations. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles.

Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time courses get online course for free. Klub Dialgou ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13/156, tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl. Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice.

Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses. Lingua Polonica Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients. Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices. Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson for beginners. Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl.

Are you in Poland for Euro 2012? If so, we have a unique guide - the mobile application “Discovery Poland” Just press the “close” button and the application will identify your location and display the nearest restaurant. Using our navigation system you will find the way to your hotel, while “SOS” allows you to call for help. In case of problems, you can always contact our call center. And for football fans, we’ll have all the results of the matches, and attractions in the fan zones.

www.discoverpoland.co

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LIFESTYLE Modern.edu School of Language Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 85 14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, www.modern.edu.pl. A wide range of Polish classes and customized courses at attractive prices - either in small groups or private classes.

EURO 2012 EMERGENCIES Emergencies (Police, Fire, Ambulance) tel. 112 Fan Consulate Stadion Naradowy, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, tel. 519 066 066, www. fansembassy.org. Open match days only. Advice, information and up-to-the minute info for fans from an international volunteer organization. Fan Embassy

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 83, tel. 519 066 066, www.fansembassy.org. Open 12:00-24:00 (on match day, the day before and the day after). Like above, only closer to town. The hotline will be manned 24hrs.

EMBASSIES

Britain ul. Kawalerii 12, tel. 22 311 0000 Croatia ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 25, tel. 22 844 2393

Greece ul. Górnośląska 35, tel. 22 622 9460 Italy Pl. Dąbrowskiego 6, tel. 22 826 3471 Netherlands ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. 22 559 1200 Portugal ul. Zwycięzców 12, tel. 22 617 6021 Republic of Ireland ul. Mysia 5, tel. 22 849 6633

Czech Republic ul. Koszykowa 18, tel. 22 525 18 50

Russia ul. Belwederska 49, tel. 22 621 3453

Denmark ul. Rakowiecka 19, tel. 22 565 2900

Spain uI. Myśliwiecka 4, tel. 22 583 4000

France ul. Piękna 1, tel. 22 529 3000

Sweden ul. Bagatela 3, tel. 22 640 8900

Germany ul. Jazdów 12, tel. 22 584 1700

Ukraine al. Jana Chrystiana Szucha 7, tel. 22 625 0127

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

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Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

classifieds

American preschool for 3-5 year olds opening in Warsaw in September 2012 is looking for experienced director, experienced teachers and assistant teachers, all native speakers.

classifieds

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

Please email your resume and cover letter in strict confidence to info@kindercapital.pl

• • • • • • • •

Over 750 students enrolled Over 50 different nationalities Outstanding IB and I/GCSE results Superb facilities in the heart of Warsaw High quality teaching provided by committed British, International and local staff A complete education from 2,5-18 years Following the English National Curriculum Wide range of extracurricular activities

l. Limanowskiego 15 u 02-943 Warszawa T: +48 22 843 81 31 F: +48 22 842 81 65 E: admissions@thebritishschool.pl W: www.thebritishschool.pl

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Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW? A: Audrey Hepburn. She changed fashion. O: The 1940s and early 60s. What’s your biggest fashion mistake? O: Ugly white pointy shoes and a white suit. I don’t know what came over me, but they were fashionable for a short time. I found them in a box recently and they gave me shivers – that box went straight into the rubbish. Define the Rejkjavik District look. O: We offer classic casual fashion with a modern Scandinavian look and fits for men of all ages. In our opinion, it’s the details in our clothes that make one stand out. How’s fashion changing here? O: When I came to Poland in 2007 I had trouble finding things I liked. I’ve noticed big changes though: people are more aware of their appearance, even though there is still a relatively small number of boutiques – especially those with men in mind. You’ve got a location in Powiśle – what’s happening there? O: We’re in the same building as 1500m2 which is a pretty famous club in its own right. There’s lots of events happening daily round here, as well as a great hangout called Sto900. We love the atmosphere of Powiśle, and even though it’s a down the track location, more and more people are checking it out.

Icelandic fashion designer, Olly Lindal, and Polish wife Anna, sit down with the Warsaw Insider to talk about life, love and local fashion. What are your four top sources of inspiration? O: Definitely, the first is Scandinavia, with its fashion and just the way people look in the street. The second would be the materials I come across – I constantly mix them to try and figure what can be done with what I already have. Thirdly, fashion history: trying to modernize classic looks. Let’s stop at three. What would you change about fashion? O: I’d love to limit mass Chinese production so there’d be more diversity when you look at people and the way they dress. Anna, who is your all time fashion icon? Olly, which is your favorite era for fashion?

104 WARSAW INSIDER | June 2012

Anna, what were your first impressions of Iceland? A: Lots of lava and emptiness: it’s the first thing you see coming out of the airport! But you don’t have to travel far to discover what an amazing country it is. I’ve already visited lots of places around the world, but never before have I been so impressed. There’s one place I love – a fjord called Hvalfiordur. Hiking around it you feel like one of the characters from the Fellowship of the Ring. Tell us about your first date? O: It was exactly four years ago! We watched the Euro final in a place called Bar Below. We both love football, and Anna had just driven back from Austria after watching most the matches live – we had a lot to talk about. Tell me about the last restaurant you visited. O: Piccolo Italia in Ochota. It’s not a fancy place, but it’s got a great atmosphere. We live close by so every Monday, on our day off, we walk down there to share provolone truffle cheese with foccacia. If we’re in the center though, Flaming & Co. is fantastic. Reykjavik District (ul. Solec 18/20, www.reykjavikdistrict. com) opened in November 2011, and has since earned rave reviews from the Warsaw fashion press – even providing the wardrobe for X Factor’s Czesław Mozil.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

FASHION STATEMENT

Olly, what excites you about Warsaw? O: The possibilities. The size. For most people it sounds funny, but for someone from Iceland it’s a huge city. And I love its big, green spaces – we hardly have any trees in Iceland, so I really appreciate them here.

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