Warsaw Insider September 2013 #205

ALL ACTION SURVIVAL GUIDE Warsaw

September 09 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(205)

2013

(VAT 8% included)

to our readers

SEPTEMBER 2013

SO IT BEGINS…

f the first half of summer was marked by drizzle, downpours and deluges, the second bit was hot – very hot. If you thought July was uncomfortable then August was unbearable; at times, you worried the city was about to spontaneously combust. But, now the streets have stopped melting, comes the uncomfortable recognition that the next extreme weather front we’ll be dealing with will be making its way from Siberia, rather than Africa. That might be good news for penguins, but for the local population it’s a grim realization that galvanizes them to make the most of the sunshine that remains. All of a sudden there’s an urgency and purpose in the air. Of course, that’s not just down to the vagaries of the weather. After its annual August shutdown, Warsaw returns to work in September. Adding even more significance to the month is the number of new arrivals who’ll be landing at Chopin Airport. January might be considered the start of the calendar year by the outside world, but everyone knows Warsaw’s year runs from September. And it’s in anticipation of the traditional ex-pat carousel of departures and arrivals that we’ve chosen to dedicate this issue to the rookies. Inside, we’ve dissected the Polish capital into precise little pieces, making her accessible to all walks of life: whether you’re a book nerd, a big shot, a hipster or a night owl, we’ve got the ultimate survival guide inside. Enjoy, and don’t forget to subscribe to our weekly e-letter at: newsletter@ warsawinsider.pl. Till next time, spread forth, multiply, etc. Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

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WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

(Illustration by Aleksandra Skiba)

Officially recognized as Poland’s premier Englishlanguage magazine, the Insider is delighted to announce the launch of its new look website. Designed to reflect the nature of a dynamic and energizing capital, the Online Insider sails you through one of Europe’s most exciting cities. In a fast evolving city, the Online Insider opens the door to Warsaw’s secrets, stories and latest scoops. Don’t let Warsaw leave you behind: • Full restaurant, nightlife, café and shopping listings • In-depth picks, past and present • Features

We’ve got Super Insider Man on the cover! Quick witted, respected and a fascinating font of knowledge, you too can be just like him by following the instructions in our Welcome to Warsaw feature. See page 19!

• Calendar • City Search • Blog • Newsletter blasts

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

THE ONLINE INSIDER

on the cover

moncler ralph lauren salvatore ferragamo todâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

what’s inside

SEPTEMBER 2013

LISTINGS

Culture

Neighborhoods

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

Nightlife

Shopping

Children

Lifestyle

07 Opener ColorFun5km 08 Calendar Music, art and events around town 10 Museums Listings and Insider’s Pick 29 A Day in the Life Wilanów 33 Insider’s Pick Muu Muu

61 Insider’s Pick Cafe Iluzja

INfront

13 News in Brief Modlin fortress sold, heat wave hits Warsaw, and a campaign for a koala 16 City News Mercedes-Benz pop-up, plus latest on the metro and Koneser 32 Warsaw Foodie Latest from the blog frontline

Editor-in-chief Art Director Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

FEATURES

19 Welcome to Warsaw Essential Warsaw for the Big Shot, Fashionista, Hipster, History Buff, Family, Foodie, Nerd and NIght Owl 80 Why Warsaw? Conceptual designer Juan Murphy on the changing face of Warsaw’s design industry

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com Agnieszka Kuczyńska akuczynska@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Iza Depczyk Jo Harper Karolina Kalinowska Agnes Monod-Gayraud Paula Rewald Aleksandra Skiba Ed Wight

65 Insider’s Pick Równonoc 71 Insider’s Pick Designer Secret 75 Insider’s Pick Copernicus Science Centre Planetarium 79 Insider’s Pick Łan Sztuk Kalimera 76 Street Index 77 Classifieds 78 Warsaw Map

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through insider@ warsawinsider.pl

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2013 Warsaw Insider.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Interview: ColorFun5km 7/ 9th Annual Cross-Culture Festival 8

CULTURE EVENTS 8 / MUSEUMS 10

Insider’s Pick: ColorFun5km on September 15th

riginally scheduled for August 31, the organizers of ColorFun5km have postponed the event till the middle of September – which is good news for all. Not only does it mean Warsaw will be well and truly back from holidays, meaning more of a crowd, but it’s also given the organizing committee a chance to refine the route to ensure maximum photo opportunities. And let’s face it, you want to be bringing your camera for this one – but more of that later…

For those out of the loop, ColorFun5km could use an introduction. In essence, it’s exactly what it says on the tin: a 5k run with the emphasis on ‘color’ and, you know what’s coming next, ‘fun’. The trail kicks off at the National Stadium, before taking in Wybrzeże Szczecińskie and Świętokrzyski Bridge and then back again. Loosely inspired by the Hindu Festival of Colors, the route will feature three ‘Zones of Color and Music’, in which participants can expect to be pelted in a myriad of different dazzling colors. Come the finish line, anticipate an unforgettable sea of vibrant color. “What counts,” say the organizers, “is great fun and massive cloud of color.” To this end you can forget the usual run. This is not a race, and there are no winners and losers. Old, young, joggers, walkers, strollers and sprinters are all welcome and encouraged – personal time tracking is not! And, to give the event more clout and a truly inclusive appeal, music and food will also play a part: we’re told to expect an armada of Warsaw’s top food trucks at the end, music stages and the famous Red Bull tour bus! Registration can be done online (sklep. colorfun.pl), and is priced zł. 85 for adults (16 years plus) and zł. 42.50 for those aged 7-16. The outlay includes colored powders, a commemorative wrist band issued at the end, a discount for Medicover membership and a voucher for Puma shoes worth zł. 100. Participants are free to wear what they want, but should be aware they’ll be covered in day-glow colors by the end – designer labels are probably best left at home. To lend this carnival of colors maximum effect, organizers do suggest anything white as the perfect gear: so yes, if anyone wishes to bowl up in a wedding dress or doctor’s outfit, then they can!

For full details as they’re announced, check: www.colorfun.pl www.facebook.com/Colorfun5km

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CULTURE EVENTS THIS MONTH Through 5 FILM

Film Capital of the Summer, 8th edition Various locations What better way to take advantage of the last breaths of the summer than with an outdoor cinema screening? In its eighth year running, screenings are dotted all over Warsaw and span most film genres. Many films are in English and are therefore only subtitled in Polish, rather than dubbed. Entry is free. For films, times, locations, see: www.filmowastolica.pl

National Philharmonic and the voices of international stars will be captivating the Warsaw audience with the piece’s intensity. Tickets from zł. 150.

own right. Nosowska draws you in with a compelling sound that is more electronica than the rock she sings for Hey. Tickets from zł. 35.

6 to 7

CONCERT Nowa Warszawa Teatr Nowy, ul. Madalińskiego 10/16 This undertaking was awarded Gazeta Wyborcza’s cultural award in 2012 for Event of the Year. Stanisława Celińska with Bartek Wąsik and the Royal String Quartet have reinterpreted twelve Varsovian anthems in a way they have never been before. Tickets from zł. 35 from eBilet.pl.

Verdi’s Requiem Filharmonia Narodowa, ul. Jasna 5 This masterpiece that is as much theatrical as it is devotional has been performed in all of the world’s best-known concert halls. This time the orchestra of the

Nosowska ATM Studio, Wał Miedzeszyński 384 Probably one of the best contemporary Polish artists, she became known as the lead singer of Polish rock band Hey but soon made a name in her

CONCERT

FESTIVAL Burn Selector Festival Wyścigi Konne, Służewiec The final installment of the summer festival series, this one boasts a selection of electronic sounds. This year not only is it in Warsaw but artists include M.I.A., The Knife, James Blake and Jessie Ware. This one is sure to be a riot. Tickets from zł. 155.

PARTY Holi Open Air Warszawa Miasto Cypel, ul. Zaruskiego 6 After taking over other major cities in Europe, it’s time the brilliantly colorful Holi powders hit Warsaw. To the beat of Moguai (not to be confused with Mogwai) and Marusha, this final summer party is going to get messy.

Tickets from zł. 64 from ebilet.pl and Empik.

WALK ECCO Walkathon Start at Agrykola/Park Łazienkowski One of the few days when most of Warsaw goes walking en masse. The charity walk winds through the most scenic parts of Warsaw so get your joggers on because for every kilometer, ECCO donates zł. 4 to charity. Tickets zł. 27 from ECCO stores.

CONCERT Man Without Country Skwer, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60A This South Wales based duo play an “atmospheric, sometimes uneasy sonic palette” as they describe it, which is rooted in that sense of not belonging found also in the name. They combine influences like My Bloody Valentine and M83 and make it work. Tickets from zł. 25 from ebilet.pl and ticketpro.pl

Insider Pick 25-29 September 9th Warsaw Cross-Culture Festival PKiN, pl. Defilad 1 eld since 2005, this festival brings an appreciation of world culture to your doorstep. The music of ten islands from four continents will be presented, including Maori beats, a Sicilian flutist, an Irish drummer and throaty North American sounds. And, from this year, there’s a new addition to the festival: Sounds Like Poland, a day dedicated to Polish and the rest of the planet’s ethnic music. The varied program will also include panels and discussions. Concerts take place in a marquee outside the Palace of Culture, with entry priced at either zł. 30 for a one day pass or zł. 90 for a ticket covering all. Tickets are available from ebilet.pl or from EMPiK stores across town.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS OR ORGANIZERS

CONCERT Coldair Klub Powiększenie, ul. Nowy Świat 27 Premiering his third album Whose Blood, Tobiasz Biliński, the multitalented multi-instrumentalist behind the band is sure to take you away on his soaring melodies and beautiful vocals. Definitely one of the most promising rising artists and very much worth checking out.

feel of 70s concerts rather than those grand scale shows that tribute bands tend to put on. Tickets from zł. 100 from biletin.pl

CONCERT The Boxer Rebellion Klub Hydrozagadka, ul. 11 listopada 22 A British, indie-rock sound that is hailed as something that “can change your life” by some music critics. In May they released their newest album after three very successful ones, albeit with a different sound to what they usually create. Tickets from zł. 45 from eBilet.pl and ticketpro.pl

Macklemore & Ryan Lewis Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Initially it was to be held in Palladium but moved to Torwar when ticket sales skyrocketed. The duo is best known for the megahit Thrift Shop that took over radios and dancefloors worldwide yet their entire debut album is chockfull with clever lyrics and strong beats. Tickets from zł. 110.

Verdi Gala Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad To mark the 200th anniversary of Verdi’s birth, the Roncole Verdi Orchestra will be putting on a musical and acting tour de force that covers the best of Verdi. Tickets from zł. 60 from Ticketpro. pl and Eventim.pl

CONCERT

FESTIVAL

CONCERT The Doors Alive Palladium, ul. Złota 9 The world’s best “tribute band” devoted to The Doors comes to Poland to rock out classics like Riders on the Storm and Light My Fire, renditions of which garnered them a world following. Their concerts retain the intimate

CONCERT The Raveonettes Klub Basen, Konopnickiej 6 Known for artfully combining a 50s/60s vibe with electronics and hard beats, this Danish duo was discovered by Rolling Stone magazine and has been on tour with the likes of The Strokes. The concert will be a journey through all six of their albums. Tickets zł. 80 from eventim.pl

22 to 28 Warsaw Autumn: 56. International Contemporary Music Festival Various locations Since 1956 this festival has been gathering the most notable international contemporary artists and has become a sort of witness to the changing musical scene. This renowned festival draws composers, performers, critics and musicologists from all over the world. Tickets from zł. 15, depending on venue.

FILM Screening of Pina Plac Zabaw, ul. Myśliwiecka 9 Part of the series of films screened free at Plac Zabaw every Sunday at 21:30 throughout the summer. This incredible documentary paints the life of the world famous choreographer Pina Bausch in a subtle yet powerful way. Entry is free.

From

PLN *

ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC, GET THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH WEEKEND CAR RENTAL OFFER. Contact: +48 22 572 65 65 www.avis.pl * net price per day, min.3 days required.

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CULTURE Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl. Approx. 300 vehicles all jumbled together like a broken jigsaw. Highlights include the ’79 Pope Mobile, Stalin’s limo and cars used to ferry Marilyn and Elvis. Other bits and pieces inc. vintage motors, a double-decker bus and a US tractor from 1895. Mapped out with little rhyme or reason, it’s a hoarder’s heaven, with extra oddities numbering WWII debris, a 7TP tank, a red English phone box and a plane... Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20,

tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl. Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl. Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Edward Dwurnik, Jenny Holzer, Annie Leibovitz, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing until Sept 8: Together/ Apart. Various artists explore the relationship between the individual and the wider society.

Media Patronage

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl. The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion. Ongoing until November 17: I Will Be Photographing it in Colour. The Beginning of the 20th Century in Stanisław Wilhelm Lilpop’s Three-Dimensional Photographs. An exhibition of 180 photographs shot between 1908 and 1930, some of them using 3D techniques. Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, www.jhi.pl . Officially opened in1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains art work, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl. The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled , it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

8 September The International Family Picnic ul. Merliniego 2 (outside Portucale restaurant)

eld for the fourth time The International Family Picnic is a joint venture between the Belgian Business Chamber, the Polish-Portuguese and the Polish-Swiss Chamber of Commerce, not to mention the Commercial Section of the Austrian Embassy. Centered around a BBQ, there’ll also be Portuguese wines and Polish draught beers for the adults, as well as a host of activities ranging from petanque, tennis matches and an ‘urban game’ for the whole family. For further info contact Nathan Dufour at: bbc@belgium.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Preludes of the Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6. Slated to open in full in the first half of 2014, this hugely impressive museum is already luring streams of onlookers eager to preview the temporary exhibits housed in the opening halls. Ongoing until September 30: Letters to afar. A video installation by Péter Forgács composed of film clips from Jewish immigrants’ visits to their hometowns in Poland in the 20s and 30s.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum. Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl. Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, www.lazienkikrolewskie.pl. Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of King Stanisław August this museum includes paintings and furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history as well as temporary exhibitions of more modern work. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum. pl. The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing until January 6: In the Heart of the Country. The first comprehensive presentation of the museum’s international collection of art. Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl. The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine. National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl. Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. From September 20 to February 2, 2014: Guercino. The triumph of Baroque. A showcase of one of the most extraordinary Italian baroque painters. The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org. A complete departure from the stuff museums in Poland are famed for, this long awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s. Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl. An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty

of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl. With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, www.muzkol.pl. Inside the museum contains an unimaginative formula of train models (including one charmingly outdated model displaying a crash!), uniforms and paintings depicting Polish rail travel through the passage of time. Outside it’s a different story – find an amazing collection of locomotives, including armored vehicles and Comrade Bierut’s luxury saloon car. Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944. pl. Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind

the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk. Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Ongoing until November 30: Christian Hutzinger’s W/W. Installation combining painting and architecture, exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Until September 22: Free Time. Photographs. An unofficial portrait of the Polish Communist era a.k.a the PRL. From September 6 till November 10: In God We Trust. A showcase of the wealth of beliefs and religious practices in the US.

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too frequently for our liking, so check indiviudal websites for the latest story. Note that many of these addresses close one day per week (usually Monday or Tuesday), and that an equal amount hold ‘visitor’ days once a week when admission prices are waived.

Media Patronage

21 September to 2 February 2014 Guercino. The Triumph of the Baroque National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl

he National Museum presents the works of Guercino, one of the prominent painters of the Italian Baroque period. So say the organizers: “the exhibition is the first European presentation of Guercino of such a magnitude outside his homeland.” Of the 33 paintings on show are canvases from his later life, not to mention the painting Et in Arcadia Ego, and the altarpiece from the Potocki Chapel in Wawel Cathedral.

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Boutique: ul. Solec 18/20 Tue- Fri 13:00-19:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 +48 505 499 669 www.reykjavikdistrict.pl

INFRONT ANIMALS 14 / CITY 16 / CLIMATE 14 / NEWS 14 / PROPERTY 14 / VIRAL 14

Sold!

zł. 35 million PROPERTY

A Fort Resort

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

Modlin’s nightmare year showed signs of improving in August with news that the town’s iconic fortress had been sold for a cool zł. 35 million. Originally built on the instructions of Napoleon, it underwent a massive expansion in the mid-19th century, and at its peak was capable of housing a 20,000 strong garrison. It played a heroic role resisting German forces in 1939, and its defenders were one of the last Polish units to raise the white flag. After the war the 58 hectare plot was utilized by the Polish army, though in recent years several attempts have been made to auction the land. On the market since 2008, the asking price had initially been set at a staggering zł. 220 million. Buyers Konkret S.A., a developer whose previous projects have included the prestigious City Park in Poznań, have revealed plans to transform the red brick fortifications into loft-style apartments, Class A offices, boutique retail space and a deluxe hotel. Pledging to retain the fort’s historical character, Konkret S.A. have been granted a further 50% rebate on the 35 mill cost price, though will be looking to spend anything up to zł. 500 million to realize their vision. The sale is welcome news for Modlin after the fiasco relating to the town’s airport. Opened to much fanfare in 2012, ‘Warsaw’s second airport’ found its runways shut for six months after cracks were discovered on the runway paths. While it was officially reopened in July, it proved too little too late for Wizz who announced they’d lost confidence in the airport and wouldn’t be returning. Modlin’s other carrier, RyanAir, remain hopeful of resuming flights from October.

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INFRONT

BRIEFING ED WIGHT’S NEWS BITES GOOGLE-EYED

CLIMATE

Shadow of Summer

Having survived flash flooding in June after days of downpour, August saw Warsaw gripped by a heat wave with temperatures soaring to 37 degrees – just one tenth of a degree short of Warsaw’s record temperature recorded in 1904. But the roasting temperatures also brought with them tragedy, with dozens of drowning’s reported across the country as people attempted to cool down. In the most heart wrenching case, a mother lost four children near Działoszyn after her children were swept away by a strong current.

SOW ABOUT THAT, THEN

Tale of Two Risings

Re-mastered footage from the 1944 Warsaw Uprising has been spliced into a dramatic feature film which to be released next year to coincide with 70th anniversary of the rebellion. The 90 minute film, commissioned by the Uprising Museum, sees the introduction of color and a fictional narrative in the background. Already two years in the making the official trailer, released last month, quickly went viral across the globe. But there were gaffes aplenty after it was revealed several western new channels, among them NBC and ITV, had mistaken the event with the Jewish Ghetto Uprising of 1943. ANIMALS

Bear Essentials

An online movement has been launched to bring koala bears to Warsaw Zoo; led by Polish clothing brand Lokalkoala, the campaign has gained support and publicity from several blogs and has set about raising funds to make such a move possible. It’s thought that Warsaw Zoo has already trained a team of staff ready to welcome the marsupials, and preparations are underway to create a specially equipped pavilion for Australia’s finest stoners. Join the campaign on: facebook.com/koalawpolsce

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

A pig farmer escaped jail after falling foul of livestock breeding laws when a randy boar made one of his sows pregnant. Farmer Feliks told a court in Studnicy he’d been delighted when he got his porker back after she’d escaped into a nearby forest. “But I didn't know that a wild boar had had his way with her,” he told judges. When the piglets were born, he was arrested for trying to sell them without a licence allowing him to cross domestic animals with wildlife.

COULD BE WURST A drunk Pole who accused a waitress of sleeping her way through Nazi Germany’s entire army was ordered out of the Czech Republic by police. The Polish man visiting Krnov on the Czech/Polish border ordered local sausages for dinner before telling the waitress: “I bet you’ve had a few German sausages in your time. I bet you had the whole Wehrmacht.”

TOP PHOTO BY KEVIN DEMARIA, BOTTOM SHUTTERSTOCK

VIRAL

A Brit holiday-maker thought he was on for the ride of his life when he used Google translate to decipher an ad for a hot air balloon ride: and found he was being offered a flying f**k. Tourist Terry Townsend was visiting Warsaw when a friend sent him a link to the ad on the WawaLove website. “I put it through Google translate and was surprised when it translated the headline into ‘Saturday F**k a hot air balloon, first come, first served’,” said gobsmacked Tel. “I asked my friend what she had in mind and she explained that the Polish word ‘przelec’ can mean to fly and also f**k,” he said. “Turned out I got neither though as we turned up late,” he added.

INFRONT

IN THE CITY

Here Today, Gone Tomorrow

Mayor of Warsaw Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz has announced that work on the city’s second metro line should be completed by October, 2014. Mid-August saw the first stage of an underground tunnel connecting Praga to the left bank completed, prompting the Mayor to tweet about a ‘historic day for the city’. The zł. 4 billion project had been slated for completion this year, though has been beset with problems: among them unexploded bombs from WWII.

A Keeper

Warsaw’s Dworzec Centralna train station celebrated its 37th birthday in December and now a new book has been released to commemorate the men behind this iconic remnant of the old regime. ARPS is named after architects Arseniusz Romanowicz (AR) and Piotr Szymaniak (PS), and contains generous illustrations, texts about the duos most well-known designs, as well as some 200 photos of their masterpieces. The Polish version proved a hit, and as of August this must-have coffee table tome has been published in English-language.

Phoenix Factory

Development fund BBI has announced a partnership with Liebrecht & Wood relating to work on the former Koneser vodka factory in Praga. The two firms are already cooperating together on the construction of the Plac Unii project, and anticipate the news will accelerate work on Koneser. Originally completed in 1897, the Koneser complex initially supplied Warsaw’s Tsarist army garrison with their daily allowance of vodka. Since vodka production ceased last decade, the red brick factory units have been utilized as artsy workshops and grungey bars. The long-term vision though sees a mixed use center comprising of luxury apartments, Class A office space, retail opportunities and a cultural center. Hopes are high for a 2017 completion date.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT. SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESS MATERIAL, KEVIN DEMARIA

Tunnel Vision

Getting plenty of applause this summer is the Mercedes-Benz pop-up store on the corner of Al. 3 Maja and ul. Kruczkowskiego. Unveiled at the tail end of July, the impromptu pavilions aim to promote the brand through a medium that’s informal and accessible. To meet this end visitors can expect more than just an ad-hoc showroom; thrown in the mixer are a cool café, with space and calendar time set aside for art exhibitions, design workshops, concerts and film screenings. For more on this three month project, and to check what events lie in store, check: www.facebook.com/StacjaMercedes

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Nicolas Tommasini, Deputy CEO and Group COO of Orco Property Group, talks to the Insider about the landmark ZŁOTA residential development in the heart of the city. What’s the background of ZŁOTA? ZŁOTA is obviously a milestone development not only for Poland, but the whole of Europe – there are very few iconic residential towers in European cities. It’s not just the highest residential tower in the EU or a unique piece of architecture, but also an extremely innovative form of luxury that mixes new comfort initiatives, hospitality services and even art. After the success of our first efforts on this path – Americka Park in Prague and Le Regina in Warsaw – we felt ready to go one step further, well a long leap further, and develop a lifestyle project. That’s how we joined forces with Daniel Libeskind and that’s how the idea of ZŁOTA was born. Being first is never easy and we have faced all kind of difficulties but each time we have used the longer development time to improve the product and follow the latest trends whether it be ‘sleeker’ interior design, new practical initiatives, or new common areas (like our wine cellar or observation deck). What’s the latest on ZŁOTA? It’s nearing completion. In September, a unique 1,000 sq/m space on the 50th floor will be opened, comprising of a variety of show apartments, a marketing area and a fantastic lounge space which we will make available (for free) to whichever club, alumni association or group of high net worth individuals that require it. That’s a real marketing innovation. There is a lot of curiosity building up right now. Of course, at the end of the day, the target for us is to enable a maximum number of potential buyers to experience the lifestyle and quality offered by ZŁOTA. That’s better than any words! Regarding the product itself, our goal was to provide an exceptional living experience and reflect its status as the most desirable new address in town.

But there’s been some negativity recently in the press about the project… I’ve heard the critics but I’m not sure they outweigh the admiration of thousands for the spectacular and poetic design of Daniel Libeskind. It feels to me ZŁOTA has been adopted, even by Warsaw’s authorities, as the emblem of ‘new Warsaw’. Regarding the ‘skin’, you have to remember that, until the end of the construction phase, the building will not have its final look. Anyway these controversies are the privilege of truly iconic buildings, aren’t they? What elevates ZŁOTA 44 above the competition? First of all, we welcome competition. Our common task is to sell modern downtown, high rise living to the Polish elite. Some of them are already ready for it and some others need to be educated and convinced to change their way of living. That said, we feel we are truly different in that we are not selling traditional real estate but a complex lifestyle environment made of a very sophisticated yet practical product, lots of services and highly esthetical interior design. By building a powerful image ZŁOTA has become a brand, not just a building. What trends have you seen on the Warsaw residential market, and what does the future hold? ZŁOTA embodies many contemporary trends: the return to the city center, the globalization of the elite, and the fusion between residential, hotel, even offices… It is actually a pleasure to see Warsaw embracing this globalization and modernizing so quickly. In France (being French), I see more reluctance and less openness… If Poland could modernize its administration, a big ‘if’, Warsaw could very well become the “European Singapore”. facebook.com/warsawinsider

First signsoznaki of improvement Pierwsze Pierwsze oznaki poprawy poprawysytuacji sytuacji onpolskim the Polish labour market na na polskim rynku rynku pracy pracy The traditionally lively summer season is ending, bringing with

Tradycyjnie Tradycyjnie bardziej bardziej ożywiony ożywiony sezon sezon letni ma letni sięma ku się końcowi, ku końcowi, przyniósł przyniósł it anticipated signs of an improved mood on the labour market. ednakjednak spodziewane spodziewane przejawy przejawy poprawy poprawy nastrojów nastrojów na rynku na rynku pracy –pracy jak – jak According to the results of a Labour Market Monitor survey conducted pokazują pokazują wynikiwyniki sondażu sondażu Monitor Monitor RynkuRynku Pracy Instytutu Pracy Instytutu Badawczego Badawczego by the Randstad Research Institute, employees decreasingly face Randstad Randstad – rzadziej – rzadziej odczuwamy odczuwamy ryzykoryzyko utratyutraty pracy oraz pracyczęściej oraz częściej the risk of unemployment and more frequently encounter new możliwość możliwość znalezienia znalezienia nowego nowego zatrudnienia. zatrudnienia. Nie ulega Nie ulega jednakjednak zmianie zmianie employment opportunities. However, the difficult situation of the trudnatrudna sytuacja sytuacja najmłodszych najmłodszych i najstarszych i najstarszych pracowników. pracowników. GrupyGrupy te te youngest and oldest employees has not changed. In the struggle w zmaganiach w zmaganiach na rynku na rynku pracy często pracy często podejmują podejmują się prac sięponiżej prac poniżej on the labour market, these groups often take jobs for which they posiadanych posiadanych kwalifikacji, kwalifikacji, ograniczając ograniczając tym samym tym samym możliwości możliwości rozwoju rozwoju are often overqualified, thereby reducing their opportunities for doświadczenia doświadczenia zawodowego. zawodowego. Zdaniem Zdaniem respondentów respondentów punktem punktem professional experience. According to respondents, the starting point startowym startowym dla stałego dla stałego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia może być może praca być tymczasowa. praca tymczasowa.

Following closely behind, with nearly the same influence, are structural

WartoWarto zauważyć, zauważyć, że przyżedużym przy dużym poziomie poziomie rotacjirotacji zanotowanej zanotowanej w ostatnim w ostatnim changes in the company, which have been increasing systematically kwartale, kwartale, skłonność skłonność pracowników pracowników do poszukiwania do poszukiwania nowego nowego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia in the past year (currently 34%, 22% in May 2012). jest bardzo jest bardzo stabilna stabilna i niemal i niemal nie ulega nie ulega zmianom. zmianom. Odsetek Odsetek Polaków Polaków poszukujących poszukujących innegoinnego pracodawcy, pracodawcy, niezależnie niezależnie od wieku od wieku i płci badanych, i płci badanych, It is worth noting that given the high turnover observed in the last utrzymuje utrzymuje się na się poziomie na poziomie bliskimbliskim średniej średniej krajówkrajów europejskich europejskich quarter, the tendency of employees to search for new employment (13% Polska, (13% Polska, 12% średnia 12% średnia dla Europy). dla Europy).

is very stable and remains nearly unchanged. The percentage of Poles searching for a new employer, irrespective of respondent age or sex, Doświadczenie Doświadczenie decyduje decyduje na to rynku na European rynku pracy.pracy. Czy wiek Czy wiek również? również? remains steady on a level similar the average (Poland 13%, European average 12%).

Respondenci Respondenci pytanipytani o to, co o ma to, co większe ma większe znaczenie znaczenie podczas podczas poszukiwania poszukiwania pracy nie pracy mają niewątpliwości mają wątpliwości - zdecydowana - zdecydowana większość większość (86%) (86%) badanych badanych Experience rules the labour market. What about MniejMniej obaw oworry utrzymanie o utrzymanie pracy i więcej i więcej wiary w możliwość w możliwość Polaków Polaków uważa,uważa, że doświadczenie że doświadczenie zawodowe zawodowe przeważa przeważa nad wykształcenad wykształceLessobaw about pracy keeping a job and wiary more faith in age? niem. niem. Co istotne, Co istotne, w wynikach w wynikach nie widać nie widać wyraźnego wyraźnego zróżnicowania zróżnicowania finding anowej new one znalezienia znalezienia nowej w odpowiedziach w odpowiedziach różnych grupwhat wiekowych grup wiekowych – zarówno – zarówno młodzi, młodzi, jak i starsi jak i starsi When respondents areróżnych asked has greater significance when wiekiem pracownicy są takissą samo zgodni. samo zgodni. looking for apracownicy job, there notak doubt – the vast majority (86%) of Polish resultswyniki of the latest Laboursondażu Market Monitor Jak pokazują Jak The pokazują wyniki ostatniego ostatniego sondażu Monitor Monitor Rynkusurvey Rynku Pracy conducted Instytutu Pracy Instytutu wiekiem participants believe that professional experience wins out over educaby the Randstad Research Institute, show the of thenastrojów year Badawczego Badawczego Randstad Randstad drugie drugie półrocze półrocze rozpoczęło rozpoczęło sięsecond poprawą sięhalf poprawą nastrojów Zdaniem Zdaniem badanych, badanych, wiek stanowi wiekdo stanowi jednak jednak bardzo bardzo ważny ważny czynnik czynnik podczas podczas tion. Interestingly, the results not reveal a clear distinction between beganbadanych withPolaków. improved moods among respondents. This not a w gronie w gronie badanych Polaków. Nie jest Nie to jest zmiana toPolish zmiana radykalna, radykalna, ale pierwsza aleispierwsza pracy, pracy, ponieważ ponieważ kandydaci kandydaci różnych pokoleń, pokoleń, są and przez są przez theposzukiwań answers provided by various age groups –różnych both younger older radical change,pogarszających but the first positive shift after a year of systematically poszukiwań po roku posystematycznie roku systematycznie pogarszających się wyników. się wyników. pracodawców pracodawców różnie różnie traktowani. traktowani. PonadPonad 4 na 54badanych na 5 badanych w Polsce w Polsce employees are in agreement. declining results. stwierdziło, że osobom że osobom młodym młodym (poniżej (poniżej 25 roku 25życia) roku jest życia) trudniej jest trudniej na na BadaniBadani pracownicy pracownicy nieco rzadziej nieco rzadziej obawiają obawiają się utraty się utraty pracy. pracy. Choć obawa, Choć obawa,stwierdziło, rynku rynku pracy, pracy, atoponad a ponad 90% uważa, 90% uważa, że ukończywszy żeimportant ukończywszy 55 rok55 życia trudniej życia trudniej According respondents, age is a more factor inrok looking Employee respondents are less worried about losing employment, że ich że bieżąca ich bieżąca umowa umowa zostanie zostanie zerwana zerwana lub nieprzedłużona lub nieprzedłużona nadal nadal jestfor znaleźć jest znaleźć pracę. pracę. Co więcej, Co więcej, wfrom opinii w opinii badanych badanych trudnatrudna sytuacja sytuacja na rynku na rynku work because candidates various generations are treated although fears thatrespondenta a current contract betoterminated not dotyczy dotyczy blisko blisko co trzeciego co trzeciego respondenta (34%),might (34%), to wynik wynik ten plasuje tenor plasuje obu pracygrup obu grup wiekowych sprawia, sprawia, że4 iout najmłodsi że i najstarsi i najstarsi sądeclared skłonni są skłonni do do differently bywiekowych employers. More than of i5najmłodsi Poles surveyed still affects almost one inśredniej threeśredniej respondents (34%). This PolskęPolskę na renewed poziomie na poziomie nieznacznie nieznacznie powyżej powyżej europejskiej europejskiej i znacznie i znaczniepracy zaniżania swoich swoich kwalifikacji kwalifikacji dla podjęcia dla podjęcia pracy pracy (odpowiednio 87% thatzaniżania young people (under 25 years of age) have(odpowiednio a harder time on the 87% figure slightly above the European average and poniżej poniżej krajów krajów oplaces mniej oPoland mniej stabilnych stabilnych gospodarkach gospodarkach jak Grecja jak Grecja (45%), (45%), i 90%). labour market and more than 90% believe that it is harder to find a considerably below countries with less stable economies such as Greece i 90%). Hiszpania Hiszpania (42%) (42%) czy Węgry czy Węgry (40%). (40%). for permanent employment may be temporary work.

job after the age of 55. Moreover, in the opinion of respondents, the

(45%), Spain (42%) and Hungary (40%).

Z podkreślaniem Z podkreślaniem istotności istotności doświadczenia zawodowego dla budowania dla budowania difficult situation of both these doświadczenia groups onzawodowego the labour market means Pod kątem Pod kątem oceny oceny dostępności dostępności ofert pracy ofert Polacy pracy Polacy są obecnie są obecnie jednym jednym kariery zawodowej, zawodowej, bardzo bardzo spójna spójna jest opinia jest opinia zdecydowanej zdecydowanej większości thatkariery the youngest and oldest individuals tend to deflate theirwiększości qualificaWith respect to the perceived availability of jobs,sondażem. Poland is currently z najbardziej z najbardziej optymistycznych optymistycznych narodów narodów objętych objętych sondażem. W przypadku W przypadku badanych badanych Polaków (88%), (88%), że trampoliną że trampoliną do zdobycia doand zdobycia stałego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia tions in Polaków accepting employment (respectively 87% 90%). stałego oneznalezienia of theznalezienia most nowego optimistic countries surveyed. casesnadchodzącego where an konieczności konieczności nowego pracodawcy pracodawcy w ciągu wInnadchodzącego ciągu może dlabyć nich dlazatrudnienie nich zatrudnienie w formule w formule tymczasowej. tymczasowej. Takiego Takiego zdaniazdania employee needs to ocenia, find a ocenia, new employer in theporównywalne next half do year, 68% półrocza, półrocza, aż 68% ażbadanych 68% badanych że znajdzie że znajdzie porównywalne do of może być byliWith zarówno byli pracownicy pracownicy młodsi, młodsi, jak i starsi, jakprofessional i starsi, choć co choć ważne, co ważne, badani anzarówno emphasis on the significance of experience inbadani respondents believe willfirmie. findtym an equivalent position in another obecnego obecnego stanowisko stanowisko w innej wthey firmie. innej Pod Pod względem tym względem jedynie jedynie postrzegali pracę tymczasową, pracę tymczasową, jako of rozwiązanie jako raczej raczej dla osób dlamłodych osób młodych building a career, a large majority Polesrozwiązanie surveyed (88%) agree that company. In this respect Norwegians exceed Poles in termsswoje of their postrzegali Norwegowie Norwegowie przewyższają przewyższają nas wonly nas swoim w swoim optymizmie. optymizmie. Najniżej Najniżej swoje the(58%). best path to gaining permanent employment might be temporary Evaluating their chances of finding a new job on the lowest szanseszanse na optimism. znalezienie na znalezienie nowego nowego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia ocenili ocenili Hiszpanie Hiszpanie - jedynie - jedynie co co(58%).

level are the Spanish only in three respondents believed that pracę trzeci badany trzeci badany ocenia, ocenia, że będzie że–będzie mógłone znaleźć mógł znaleźć porównywalną porównywalną nową nową pracę a newkrajach comparable job (34%) is possible. Taking all European 34%).(34%). Wefinding wszystkich We wszystkich krajach europejskich europejskich łącznie, łącznie, odpowiedzi odpowiedzi takiej takiej countries into account, this positive response was expressed by every udzielała udzielała co druga co druga osoba osoba (51%).(51%).

work. This opinion was expressed by both younger and older employees, although it should be noted that respondents perceived temporary work as a better solution for young people (58%).

other person (51%).

Co bardzo Co bardzo ważne,ważne, odczuwana odczuwana poprawa poprawa nastrojów nastrojów nie dotyczy nie dotyczy wszystkich wszystkich More importantly, this tangible improvement in mood does not affect zatrudnionych. zatrudnionych. WynikiWyniki badania badania pokazują pokazują znaczący znaczący wzrost wzrost obaw obaw o utratę o utratę allpracowników the employed. The survey results show a considerable rise in się worries stanowiska stanowiska pracowników najstarszych najstarszych wiekiem wiekiem – ta grupa – ta grupa zwiększyła zwiększyła się concerning the loss oftrzecią one’s position among thedo oldest w tymw kwartale tym kwartale o jedną o jedną trzecią (z 28% (zw28% II/2013 w II/2013 do 41% obecnie). 41%employees obecnie). – this group during quarter by one-third (from 28% in the Podobnie Podobnie wysokie wysokie sąincreased też są obawy też obawy osóbthis najmłodszych, osób najmłodszych, dopiero dopiero rozpoczynarozpoczynasecond quarter of zawodową 2013 (39%). to a current level of 41%). Similarly high areoceny ącychjących swoją swoją karierę karierę zawodową (39%). Ponadto, Ponadto, o ile woprzypadku ile w przypadku oceny fears among the youngest who are only just beginning możliwości możliwości znalezienia znalezienia nowej nowej pracyrespondents młodsi pracy młodsi respondenci respondenci badania badania (18-24(18-24 professional careers (39%). Moreover, while young survey oraz 25-34 oraztheir lat) 25-34 są lat) najbardziej są najbardziej optymistyczni, optymistyczni, to najstarsi to najstarsi odpowiadający odpowiadający respondents 18-24 and 25-34) are the mostoceny optimistic about their w badaniu w badaniu PolacyPolacy mieli(aged blisko mieli blisko dwukrotnie dwukrotnie gorsze gorsze oceny (odpowiednio (odpowiednio for finding new employment, the oldest respondents provided 78% wobec 78%chances wobec 42% dla 42% porównywalnej dla porównywalnej pracy).pracy). are twice as negative (respectively 78% versus 42% for comparable

“Monitor “Monitor RynkuRynku Pracy”Pracy” jest kwartalnym jest kwartalnym sondażem sondażem realizowanym realizowanym “Labour Market Monitor” is a Australii quarterly carried out in 32jest w 32 krajach w 32 krajach Europy, Europy, Azji, Australii Azji, i obu Ameryk. isurvey obu Ameryk. Sondaż Sondaż jest countries in Europe, Asia, Australia andon-line the Americas. Therespondentów survey przeprowadzany przeprowadzany poprzez poprzez ankiety ankiety on-line w grupie w grupie respondentów is performed using an 64 online form among of w wieku w wieku od 18 od do 18 64 do lat, pracujących lat, survey pracujących minimum minimum 24 groups godziny 24 godziny respondents from age 18 toosób 64 who work a minimum of 24 hours w tygodniu w tygodniu (z wykluczeniem (z wykluczeniem samozatrudnionych). osób samozatrudnionych). perDobór weekdla (excluding thepopulacji self-employed). Dobór prób prób badanych dla badanych populacji jest przeprowadzany jest przeprowadzany przez przez Themiędzynarodowy selection ofinstytut samples for the surveyed population is carried międzynarodowy instytut Survey Survey Sampling Sampling International. International. Próba Próba outwby the international Survey Sampling International. w Polsce Polsce wynosi wynosi 405 respondentów 405 institute respondentów (w całym (w całym badaniu badaniu wzięłowzięło udziałudział The sample totals 405 respondents (13 967 people took w tej fali wPolish tej 13.967 fali 13.967 osób). osób). part in this edition of the survey).

work).poziom Wysoki Wysoki poziom rotacji rotacji związanych związanych ze zmianami ze zmianami strukturalnymi strukturalnymi High turnover related to structural changes

WynikiWyniki badania badania pokazują, pokazują, że w ostatnim że w ostatnim półroczu półroczu co czwarty co czwarty (25%) (25%) Survey results show that in the last half year one in four (25%) of polski polski respondent respondent zmienił zmienił pracodawcę. pracodawcę. Po trzech Po trzech kwartałach kwartałach ze średnią ze średnią Polish respondents changed employers. After three quarters of average dynamiką dynamiką zmianzmian bliską bliską europejskiej europejskiej (16%) (16%) jest tojest bardzo to bardzo duża zmiana duża zmiana change similar to that of Europe (16%) as a whole, this is a very large oraz najwyższy oraz najwyższy obecnie obecnie rezultat rezultat pośródpośród badanych badanych krajówkrajów naszego naszego change and currently the highest result among surveyed countries on kontynentu kontynentu w tymw okresie. tym okresie. Główną Główną przyczyną przyczyną zmianyzmiany pracy przez pracy przez the continent during this period. biorących biorących udziałudział w badaniu w badaniu było poszukiwanie było poszukiwanie lepszych lepszych warunków warunków zatrudnienia zatrudnienia (35%).(35%). Zaraz za Zaraz nim, zaznim, niemal z niemal identycznym identycznym wpływem wpływem The main reason for changing jobs among those who took part in zmiany - zmiany w strukturze w strukturze firmy, firmy, których których znaczenie znaczenie od roku odsystematycznie roku systematycznie the survey was the search for better employment conditions (35%). rośnierośnie (34% obecnie, (34% obecnie, 22% w22% maju w2012). maju 2012).

Contact: Contact: Contact: Randstad Randstad Polska Polska sp.sp. zsp. o.o. z o.o. Randstad Polska z o.o. Al. Jerozolimskie Al. Jerozolimskie 56c 00-803 56c 00-803 Warszawa Warszawa Al. Jerozolimskie 56c 00-803 Warszawa tel.: tel.: 462 22 25 462 00, 25 firma@pl.randstad.com 00, firma@pl.randstad.com tel.:22 22 462 25 00, firma@pl.randstad.com www.randstad.pl/pracodawca www.randstad.pl/pracodawca www.randstad.pl/pracodawca

WELCOME TO WARSAW

City Essentials for the...

BIG SHOT FASHIONISTA HIPSTER HISTORY BUFF FAMILY FOODIE NERD NIGHT OWL

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WELCOME TO WARSAW View from Pure Sky

The Big Shot From city hipster to city

slicker… Warsaw’s reputation as CEE’s financial soul is well documented and equally warranted: but to mean business, you need to act the business. Need to get on the good side of the visiting CEO? Do so by ensuring he’s lodging in the best place in town. No hotel in Poland matches H15 (h15boutiqueapartments.com) in terms of top flight accommodation. Generous spaces combine with designer Italian furnishings, chic, clean finishes and original artwork. The details are amazing. Start the day as you mean to go on. Don’t shortcut breakfast out of your diet, instead join an upwardly crowd at Flaming & Co. (flaming-co.pl), set yourself up with ‘super smoothies’ at 6/12 (612.pl), or just pick up a bag of fresh croissants from sceney looking Charlotte (bistrocharlotte.com). Just arrived and needing a foot on the ladder? Networking events continue to play a huge part in Warsaw life, with the best of the bunch represented by the monthly InterNations gatherings (internations.org). Don’t let the relaxed atmosphere fool you, you’ll leave with a stack of business cards and contacts.

A popular concept in the west, private members clubs remain a rare sight in Wawa. But in the shape of the Pure Sky Club (pureskyclub.com) Warsaw has a venue of some merit. Private dining, cinema, conference and banqueting facilities are available, and the views alone are absolutely magic. For a post-boardroom workout don’t settle for anything but the best. Holmes Place (holmesplace.pl) is considered the best gym in town, with their Hilton branch hands down the No. 1 workout space in Poland. Join. Make the ultimate statement with a bespoke suit. Considered as something of an outfitter of the stars, Mexican-born Rodrigo De La Garza (facebook.com/delagarzamoda) has seduced Warsaw with his deft eye for fashion. He’s even clothed the male model / human freak show: Zombie Boy! Warsaw has ample eateries catering for the all-important client dinner, but

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

not all are created equal. Butchery & Wine (butcheryandwine.pl) helped make steak fashionable again, and remain a leader in their genre. For fine wine and dining, then Winosfera (winosfera.pl) has been the talk of the town since opening this year. Don’t settle for that standard bag you picked up in Saturn to lug your belongings about, instead pay a visit D. Bramante 1928 (dbramante1928. pl) for hand-crafted, Danish-designed leather goods. Offering specific solutions for Macs, iPhones, tablets and laptops, this is the top resource for luxury work bags. For that champagne moment big spenders look no further than the astutely titled Champagne Bar (flaming-co.pl). Don’t dare miss their cocktails, either. Less prohibitive, less booted and suited, Syreni Śpiew (syrenispiew.pl) has the most complete selection of whisky in Warsaw. Set in a communist carbuncle, it attracts a surprisingly diverse crowd of styles and ages (but not incomes). For corporate team building with a difference, contemplate a cookery class with a top chef. Whiskered Austrian Kurt Scheller (schelleracademy.pl), and King of Smiles Joseph Seeletso (josephseeletso.pl), both have their own custommade cooking studios and are experts of their game. Wine is involved!

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Rodrigo DeLa Garza

The Night Owl Once a little socially

challenged, Warsaw’s development as a party town hasn’t been easy. For years, if you asked where the party was, you’d have been advised to board a train and buy a ticket to Kraków. But times have changed: at last, hedonism is here… Avoid the giants of Polish brewing and instead look to the new indy breweries that have made such a splash. Examples of their work are now prevalent round town, and none more so than in the multi-tap bars that debuted over summer. Don’t miss Chmielarnia, Cuda Na Kiju or Kufle I Kapsle (details in Nightlife). Cocktail culture remains in its infancy in Warsaw. Some bars are trapped in the 1980s, and pride themselves on fluorescent cocktails with jungle decorations. Even more are left floundering in the 1880s, and view adding anything to vodka as an evil act of witchcraft. Paparazzi (paparazzi.com. pl) remain Warsaw’s original modern cocktail bar, though for something totally future forward then hit the molecular drinks at Pies Czy Suka (piesczysuka.com). Don’t be surprised to be served something swirling in smoke and shaking like jelly.

reintroduce the drink to the younger generation, though for the real deal, visit industrial-looking CzystaOjczysta – found in, where else, but a one-time vodka factory. Something of an open secret, the pavilion pubs behind Nowy Świat 22 (pawilony.org) promise a unique drinking session. Like entering into a parallel world, the thick tangle of dark, divey pubs are defined by their enthusiastic measure of shouty student chaos.

Warsaw frequently enjoys visits from the world’s top DJs. Yet for a distinct local flavor keep an eye out for Wirginia Szmyt – a 74 year old Warsaw grandmother who at night transforms into DJ Wika. She’s a legend! Salute the end of summer by visiting one of the beach bars nestling on the riverbank. There’s over a dozen to choose from, but none achieved such popularity as Temat Rzeka. The considerable queues (bring sharp elbows and/or a flick knife) become manageable once you note some of the nymphs standing in them. In terms of geography Warsaw’s nightlife is fragmented into little pieces. It has no natural home, with several areas staking claim as ‘the main place to be’. Though in terms of the ‘see and be scene’, it’s hard to consider anything better than lively ul. Poznańska. With Tel Aviv and Beirut vying for superiority on this street, it’s not hard to see why it’s famously referred to as The Gaza Strip.

Pijalnia

Warsaw embraces the velvet roped club, and getting past face control requires confidence and swagger. While a number of high-end, high income clubs have opened, Platinium remains the benchmark (platiniumclub.pl). Nowhere else in Europe has as many good lookers per sq/meter. If Platinium represents the top of the tree in clubbing terms, Luztro (luztro.pl) is rock bottom. Brains get fried here, cannibalized even. Hard and electronic, it’s a rough and raw experience for a chemically enhanced crowd. Get there late (like 4 a.m.), and prepare to leave even later.

Kufle i Kapsle

Pies Czy Suka

Vodka is a national passion, just visit any house party, wedding or train station flophouse. But evidence of its popularity isn’t always overt. Old-school style shot bars like Pijalnia

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WELCOME TO WARSAW

Hipsterdom isn’t a look, it’s a way of life. Aspiring hipsters ensure their 30 sq/m kawalerka is kitted out in the latest retro home design, and to meet that end a visit to Reset (resetpoint. pl) is an absolute must. It’s a joyful Aladdin’s Cave of creative pieces for the modern home.

Polaroid Store

Capture that moment forever with the ultimate boho accessory: a refurbished Polaroid camera. Pick up yours at the Impossible Project Space Warsaw (facebook.com/ImpossiblePolska), a wonderful looking shop in the defiantly voguish Mysia 3 department store. It was the hipsters who gave birth to the burger trend of 2012, and it’s the hipsters who’re now reclaiming it by lending a new spin to an exhausted formula. Give meat a miss and instead head to Krowarzywa (facebook.com/ Krowarzywa), a place that targets vegetarians with gorgeous meat-free burgers. To fit in with Warsaw’s cool cats a quirky city bike is a non-negotiable requirement. Pick up your brightly colored chopper or cruiser from Plumbike (plumbike.eu), a beautiful store with bikes assembled with true TLC.

Longboard

The Hipster Spreading at a rate usually associated with a virus is the latter day phenomenon of the urban hipster.Mocked by those outrside of their orbit, it's actually larger thanks to this lot thatWarsaw has become increasingly metropolitan and culturally aware… For Warsaw’s hipster heart look no further than Plac Zbawiciela – or, as some have renamed it (including, for a time, Google Maps), Plac Hipstera. It all began here. When they’re not setting fire to the symbolic rainbow (five times and counting?), Warsaw’s youth can be found holding court in Plan B and the like.

Reboot after a night on the tiles not via the noble act of hair-of-the-dog, but with a replenishing Coke. No, not the American stuff (nor the Colombian, for that matter), but the German variety. Brands like Fritz Cola and Afri-Cola are now heavily in fashion among local youth. Find both in any café bar with hipster pretensions.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Being mobile plays heavily on local minds. If you can’t afford the above, get the next best thing: a lairy longboard adorned with eye-catching art. Do so at the LongboardShop (longboardshop.pl). Perhaps deterred by the youthful high jinks of Pl. Zbawiciela, the district of Powiśle has emerged as The Next Big Thing amongst a more enlightened crowd. Once a decrepit grey waste, the area bursts with cool cafes, quirky boutiques, bold startups and urban color. Warsaw has been hit by a burst of creativity. Appreciate its artistic side with a trip to the Museum of Modern Art (artmuseum.pl), a captivating space that houses our favorite work of art: a swaying drunk. For more art, Galeria Czułość (czulosc.com) has a daring rota of intriguing local talent.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Fritz Cola

Wrzenie Świata

Chopin in the Park

The Nerd Geek chic rules, not as a style statement but as a way

of life! For the eggheaded Einstein and the nerdy neuroscientist, Warsaw offers a range of cerebral activities to stimulate the mind… Enter the realm of sci-fi, superheroes and Manga inside Centrum Komiksu (al. Niepodległości 148), an unabashed geek-fest that draws not-at-all-creepy enthusiasts sifting through a classic collection of comics and collectibles.

Shoulder-length hair, leather overcoats and clumpy boots find favor in Paradox (paradox-cafe.pl), a self-confessed ‘fantasy asylum’ dedicated to board games, Middle Earth and painted, little elves. It’s one of a kind.

Warsaw likes a good parade, though without disparaging this fine city they usually end in a hooligan bloodbath. Well here’s one that starts as a bloodbath: the annual zombie walk! Going strong since 2007, this July event draws fancifully dressed monsters from far and wide. Search Facebook for ‘zombie walk Warszawa’ to keep in the loop.

It doesn’t get more scholarly than PaństwoMiasto (panstwomiasto. pl), a community-minded café which separates itself from the comp courtesy of lectures, screenings and highbrow workshops. But the lack of superiority is pleasing: it’s an inclusive place that’s both liberal and friendly.

Anoraks rule the roost in the railway museum (muzeumkolejnictwa.waw. pl), an assembly of antique train signs and models, uniforms and paintings. Outside find a distinguished display of vintage trains: among them, Comrade Bierut’s bordello-styled private carriage. Rouse yourself on Sunday and enter the Stodoła club (Batorego 10) which miraculously transforms from a sweaty student club to a pungent man lair of cameras and photo equipment. This market is renowned for the breadth of its photographic offer.

Like most cities, Warsaw’s cinemas are aimed at a slack-jawed generation that munch popcorn for the soul. But hope is at hand, thanks to independent cinemas like Muranów (muranow.gutekfilm.pl) and Iluzjon (fn.org.pl). Both are champions of the art house cause. ‘Literary cafes’ enjoyed their peak a few years back – still, a few doggedly plug on. Kafka (kafka.com.pl) is suitably dog-eared and shambolic. For something more buffed, and definitely more Mac than Moleskine, join bookish intellectuals at Wrzenie Świata (wrzenie.pl).

The Museum of Technology (muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl) is a veritable Temple of Geek-Doom. Clunky computers, rockets and mysterious machines all vie for space in a merry museum that leaves little explained but provides plenty of enjoyment. Appreciate classical music in the shadow of Łazienki’s Chopin monument (due to renovation work, temporarily in the park’s ‘amphitheater’) each Sunday at noon and 4 p.m. Running from May to September, this is an integral part of Warsaw life. Magnificent. The University of Warsaw Library (buw.uw.edu.pl) has much to recommend: not least a poster gallery consisting of 7,000 items by standout Polish artists. But the coup de grace is delivered via a rooftop garden. Cascading waterfalls, winding walkways and unobstructed views of blushing sunsets make it an essential stop. Marvel at the wonders of modern engineering by swinging by the Lubomirski Palace (Żelazna Brama 10). In 1970 the 8,000 ton building was lifted on hydraulic jacks, then rotated about 70 degrees on 16 steel rails – clever, huh? facebook.com/warsawinsider

WELCOME TO WARSAW Koszyki

Some like it hot. Warsaw, doesn’t. In a city still suspicious of anything spicy, it’s a relief to find Spoco Loco (spocoloco.com.pl) redressing the balance with their lunatic-issue No. 7 sauce. It’s the most macho food challenge in Poland, and leaves everything but the bowels paralyzed. We love it! Heard of Zofia Różycka? Maybe, maybe not. But Różycka’s sweets are ubiquitous round Warsaw, and found in many of the top cafes. The best bet though is to buy them from source: find her or her father operating a stall on the upper level of Koszyki market. The hunt for ingredients is over! Those who take the provenance of their food seriously must visit the urban markets that have boomed around town. These include BioBazar (biobazar. org.pl), Nowy Targ (facebook.com/ NowyTarg.Wwa), and the absolutely essential ‘are you sure this isn’t Paris’ experience of Koszyki (facebook.com/ Koszyki).

The Foodie Not long back the food situation here was dire, scary some would say. But 2013 was a banner year for the foodie scene, something evidenced by the city’s first Michelin star, not to mention a flurry of markets, and thrilling young chefs who’ve changed Warsaw’s course.

The opening of Atelier Amaro (atelieramaro.pl) was seismic for Poland. A year on and the nation has its first Michelin star and global recognition as a country of growing gastronomic character. You owe it to yourself to join the waiting list and see what it’s all about.

What is food without wine? Numerous wine bars have flourished of late, but why bother with anything but the best. Andrzej Strzelczyk is Poland’s champion sommelier, and you’ll find him working in the fine dining favorite La Rotisserie (rotisserierestaurant. com.pl).

While urban markets get the headlines and the hipsters, Warsaw’s older markets aren’t to be sniffed at. Grzegorz, the butcher at Polna, is a legend in his own right, while the Hala Mirowska market has long been seen as a budget pull for fresh country produce.

Burgers are just sooo last year. Stay ahead of the curve and head instead to the food trucks that came to define the summer just gone. Dispensing everything from tacos to pasta to pizza to burgers, there’s an army of the little buggers, with many doing business around the Wisła river.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

There’s nothing wrong with gluttony and greed: find examples of both at flat rate ‘eat / drink all you can’ brunches held each Sunday in most of the top hotels. They’re an ex-pat rite of passage! Points in this field go, in particular, to the Westin and Hilton. Polish food doesn’t have to be boring, boring, we’re all snoring. Dawne Smaki (dawnesmaki.pl) is proof: traditional food gets a modern update here inside one of the surprises of the year. The cult of the chef has penetrated Warsaw, mainly thanks to a collection of young buck chefs who’ve reinvented what and how Warsaw eats. Keep an eye out for names like Grochowina (Nolita), Adamczyk (Winosfera), Baron (Solec 44), Wozniak (Burger Kitchen) and Trzópek (The Harvest): different styles, different disciplines, same magnificent results.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIAW

Zofia Różycka Cakes

Warsaw’s restaurant scene is busier than ever. Keep connected to the coming and goings by visiting blogs such as warsawfoodie.pl, or Polishlanguage news and reviews sites such as froblog.pl, restaurantica.pl, wheresthefood.pl and nakarmionastarecka.pl.

The Family Gradually, Warsaw has comes

of age. Exhibit A is her expanding offer aimed at all the family. For sure, there’s still a way to go, but it’s an impressive improvement from the days of yore. Der Elefant

Stacja Balon

friendly experience, but few deliver on their word beyond a grubby looking high-chair. There’s no such problems at Der Elefant (derelefant.pl). So in tune is this place to family demands, it’s even got an indoor play area with a slide that dispatches kids into a ball pool. Where were restaurants like this when the Insider was three? Run by an Italian who discovered his grandmother’s gelato recipes locked in an attic box, Limoni (osterialimoni. pl) is the final word in iced treats. Flavors range from the norm, to fanciful weirdness like tomato, basil, salmon and cucumber. Unmissable for all ages. Ok, so you’ll need a head for heights, but Stacja Balon (stacjabalon.pl) offers nerve jangling views of Warsaw from a stationary balloon that rises 120 meters in the air. A little less terrifying, zip up to the viewing platform of PKiN (pkin.pl) to see Warsaw scurrying ant-like below. One for dad’s and lads: tours of Poland’s national stadium (stadionnarodowy.org.pl) are conducted daily, with standard routes taking in the locker room and post-match conference area. The public tours are in Polish-language, but you’ll get the message. Candy making workshops take place in Cukier Lukier (cukierlukier.pl), with the merry shenanigans overseen by a crew of fun ladies. The end results are crazy… and tasty.

National Stadium

The implementation of a skeleton structure of cycle paths, not to mention the success of the Veturilo bike share program (veturilo.waw. pl), have contributed to the dramatic rise of cycling culture. It’s not all good news – drivers remain a public menace. Take safety in numbers by joining the Critical Mass cycle ride at the end of each month (masa.waw.pl). For kids below a certain age, check out Cosmo Golem on the fringe of Pole Mokotowskie (cosmogolem.pl). A strange wooden like contraption, this beast-like alien has a little step ladder up which kids file to post their wishes

inside ‘it’. But don’t bet on them coming true. Warsaw has numerous parks, but many come with Draconian decrees that instruct ‘no games’, ‘no walking on the grass’, etc. These are enforced not by the park police, but interfering babcias who’re not to be messed with. Swerve them by visiting Warsaw’s most user-friendly park: Pole Mokotowskie. Criss-crossed with cycle trails, it’s one place that openly encourages park life: roller blading, dog walking, BBQs and Frisbee. Many restaurants promise a child

A new breed of café owner has recognized that some people have children. The outcome of this bombshell revelation has been a crop of ‘kid cafes’, places that put children first with an array of diversions that go well beyond a set of chewed-up crayons. Find such extras as Wendy houses, artificial beaches and Wii’s in the best, and more traditional games in the others. Kred, Fiku Miku, Nabo and Nowa Kuźnia earn particular praise from parents we know. In making science fun the Coperniucs (kopernik.org.pl) have seemingly achieved an impossible task. They’ve done this by marrying hand’s on exhibits with hi-tech gizmos that encourage kids to touch, bang, scream and experiment. It’s amazing, frankly. facebook.com/warsawinsider

WELCOME TO WARSAW your purchases with a molecular cocktail from their bar downstairs. For equally experimental work, Magazyn Praga (magazynpraga.pl) pride themselves on bold, original items suited to all kinds of budgets. Found in the Soho Factory ‘creative complex’, this concept store will reinvent your home.

Vitkac

PLICH

Mysia 3

The Fashionista The capital has developed an insanity for vanity, with many habitants afflicted by a deep-rooted phobia of being behind the times. Keep your head above fashions choppy waters and memorize this edit… For the bottom line in luxury fashion nowhere in Poland can compete with the Vitkac store (vitkac.com). Found in a polished black building that looks like It Came From Outer Space, this department store supplies elite brands such as Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Gucci and many, many more. Having perused the likes of Burberry and Zegna, the designer stores of pl. Trzech Krzyży open up onto Mokotowska, an elegant street that has shades of Paris. Many of the stars of Polish fashion have studios here, among them Robert Kupisz, Plich and Ania Kuczyńska. Having given the credit card a fright, settle down in one of the street’s numerous spas: Fiuu

Fiuu, Terra Spa and Le Spa all have especially glittery reputations. Maciej Zień is one of the biggest names in Polish fashion and his gospel is gradually spreading westwards. But his reputation exceeds further than head-turning couture. Zień Home (zienhome.pl) is upstairs from his Mokotowska atelier, and offers chic design solutions for the home: from full interiors to itsy accessories. Home design is a growing market in PL, with several young teams pushing the boundaries of creativity. Accessorize your home with cutting edge pieces from Pies Czy Suka (facebook. com/piesczysuka) before celebrating

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Hairdressers occupy every corner of Warsaw, but most are of the zł. 20 ‘cut, hope and run’ school. Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon (youandyou.eu) is found on the ground floor of Platinum Towers. Spoil yourself. Having completed your rounds of the Vitkac department store, head to the top floor to dine in Concept 13. Composed of clean lines, ample spacing and big downtown views, it’s recognized as one of the top restaurants in town: and one with highly affordable lunch deals should your finances be somewhere near the red. It might not be to everyone’s liking, but Żurawina (zurawina.eu) has definitely emerged as a hotspot for Warsaw’s more beautiful people. Find a slinky crowd of glamor cats enjoying a wide selection of wine amid white interiors injected with contemporary art. It’s both sceney and cliquey, but those who go, go exactly for that. Looking for a statement piece for the home? Followers of fashion look no further than Galeria Apteka Sztuki (aptekasztuki.eu), a contemporary gallery with an at times daring outlook. Representing a stable of both upcoming and established Polish names, the works will lend plenty of wow to your living room.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Zien

Located in the one-time communistera censorship office, Mysia 3 (mysia3.pl) is a brave project that brings together a number of clothing, accessory and home design brands under one roof. These include the haute couture of Dawid Woliński, classy bedding from Take A Nap, edgy fashions from COS and UEG, footwear from Sperry Top Sider and resuscitated polaroid cameras from Impossible Project. Defiantly young and bold, it’s a must for budding fashionistas.

The History Buff Warsaw’s history has been tragic, troubled and

triumphant (though mostly the first two). Whole scale destruction has been visited on it numerous times, yet even so, this old boxer just keeps getting up. And it’s this remarkable story that has left it with a wealth of sights and sounds to check off the diary. No exploration of Warsaw’s history is complete without first ticking The Big Three off the itinerary: the Chopin Museum, the Uprising ’44 Museum and the ‘now-open-for-preview’ Museum of the History of Polish Jews. All are part of a new generation of museums that eschew traditional museum practice and instead present their booty in an engaging way that makes history relevant to all. Barring her Socialist Realist architecture and occasional military monument, signs of Soviet hegemony are pretty scant nowadays: so, step forward our favorite Warsaw secret! Finagle your way into the underground car park below Cuda Na Kiju to see the remains of a leviathan Lenin statue. His giant head is available for private party hire for zł. 1,000 per day! Intimidate pedestrians and see Warsaw’s old town at the same time: yay! Do just that by scooting about the historic Old and New Town on an ecofriendly Segway. Qualified tour guides will tell you Warsaw’s story while you have the time of your life. Check: www. segwaycitytours.pl

H15

The 1944 Warsaw Uprising still looms heavily over the city. To get an idea of the scale of destruction watch City of Ruins, a CGI reconstruction that takes viewers on a haunting flight over the misty ruins. The areas of Muranów and Mirów housed the Jewish Ghetto and 21 info boards have been erected pointing out the former site of entry/exit points along with period photos and English language text. The installation on Zelażna / Chłodna, marking the site of the famous overhead bridge that connected the small Ghetto with the large, is worth noting.

graphs, yellowing maps and PRL-era lifestyle magazines. This courtyard curiosity shop is a fabulous detour! For a tour with a twist Adventure Warsaw (adventurewarsaw.com) aren’t to be missed. Peruse their ‘life museum’, a warehouse full of extraordinary communist scrap, before jumping into a militia van and being taken on a tour of Warsaw’s top secrets: markets, hidden palaces and vodka shots included, not to mention plenty of banter and stories!

Chopin is Warsaw’s unofficial musical mascot, and a trail of benches that parp out Chopin’s big scores have Signature (signaturerestaurant.pl) been built at key points relevant to his offers one of the top fine dining experi- life. For a full list of locations, check: ences in the city, but is also distinchopin.um.warszawa.pl guished by its history. This was the inter-war Soviet embassy and period Pick up your own piece of history at details remain in evidence. There’s Bazar na Kołe (gieldastaroci.waw.pl). also a scattering of original Marilyn Each Sunday the fruit and veg stalls photos taken by iconic photographer are replaced by antique stands selling Milton Greene! everything from wartime militaria to paintings, porcelain, posters and Kwadryga (kwadryga.com) offers furniture. It’s an exceptional place, bibliophiles the chance to browse with genuine treasures lurking antique Polish books, faded photoamongst the loot.

Segway Tour

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PARMIZZANO’S – LITTLE ITALY IN WARSAW 45-minutowy lunch od poniedzia³ku do pi¹tku w godzinach 12:00-15:00 2 dania w cenie 55 PLN, 3 dania w cenie 65 PLN. Codziennie nowe menu. 45-minute lunch from Monday to Friday 12:00 AM-3:00 PM 2 courses at 55 PLN, 3 courses at 65 PLN. New menu everyday.

WARSAW MARRIOTT HOTEL Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 00-697 Warszawa Rezerwacje/Reservations: +48 22 630 5096 www.warsawmarriott.com, www.warsawmarriott.pl

Wilanów

NEIGHBORHOOD

Those new to Warsaw can get used to hearing a lot about Wilanów. Though primarily famed for its palace and spectacular church, this is not just a district stuck in the past – recent expansion has been conducted at a meteoric rate, with swathes of new developments attracting a young, well-off crowd.

Wi er tn ic z a Wila now ska

Ka a

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Br a

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A Day in the Life

ilanów has two distinct characters: old and new. As a general rule, the old lies to the east of ul. Przyczółkowa, and is comprised of rambling villas and tree-lined roads. In essence, it’s here you’ll find things to see. Places like, for instance, Wilanów Palace (1). Known by the Poles (and no-one else) as the Polish Versailles, this baroque masterpiece was built in the 17th century for King Jan III Sobieski.

It’s emphatic in its splendor, with surfaces dripping with gold leaf and indulgent extras. A traditional sightseeing experience, its often overwhelmed by school children, and keeping your nerve becomes an interesting challenge. Those used to Warsaw’s new generation, CGI heavy museums may be frustrated by Wilanów, but ultimately, it’s one of those places that just demands to be chalked off the itinerary. Not least so you can say you’ve seen the cool coffin portraits (etched to make it seem the deceased were present at their own funeral). Onwards, and brides-to-be dream of getting hitched at the nearby Church of St. Anne (2). Its current neo-renaissance look came about when prolific architect Henryk Marconi gave it new swagger in the mid-19th century. Peering in and one is knocked sideways by the bling and the extravagance. A detour to the Poster Museum (3) is recommended, but don’t think it’ll be quick. There’s 55,000 items on show, making it the biggest such exhibition on earth. Of particular interest, we love the Polish posters preserved from the war. From there, nip into ‘New Wilanów’, otherwise known as Miasteczka Wilanów. Do so by crossing the ‘bridge of hearts’ (4), close to which you’ll be blind not to notice the half-finished Temple of Divine Providence (5). The idea for such a temple was first mooted 200 years ago, and if the current rate of progress is anything to go by, it’ll be another 200 years before it’s finished. Even so, it remains one of the truly bizarre sights of latter-day Poland. Looking like it’s going to blast off into space, it’s guaranteed to take the breath away. With that in mind, it’s a good job the modern Miasteczka Development presents plenty of diversions of a social kind. Wrap up your day with an exploration of the cafes and restaurants before heading back on yourself for the all-conquering Taste Burger (6).

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NEIGHBORHOOD DRINK & DINE Basico ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 115 0505, www. basico.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. For a while the Miasteczko Wilanów development was assuming the look of a white elephant. This summer though has marked a fresh start, and among the successes has been the opening of Basico. Airy and spacious the mood is light and modern, the food, meanwhile, isn’t over-complicated. It’s simple, fresh and truthful to Italian standards. It’s regularly full and you won’t hear a word of complaint. Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. It happened so suddenly. Warsaw went from meat loser to meat lover in the space of a year. Bistecca, opened over 2 years ago, was one of the early pioneers, and to date remains one of the best. That people travel from well outside Wilanów to sample its delights speaks volumes. Pride of place goes to their signature Bistecca steak: a one kilo T-Bone shaped joint with strip steak on one side and tenderloin on the other. For the thrill of DIY tableside cooking, order one of their ‘various kinds of meat grilled over volcanic stone’. Castello ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885 7505, www. castello.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Castello belongs to a select band of restaurants that are better known for their outrageous architecture than anything else. And yes, this place is a head turner. Decorated with a wooden ‘castle tower’, it’s a miracle that this adventurous piece of design hasn’t caused any traffic accidents. Increasingly passé in an area swelled by contemporary Italian food, it’s by no means a catastrophe; you’ll just find better elsewhere. China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws. Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious.

Il Fornello ul. Branickiego 9, tel. 22 404 1333, www. fornello.pl. Open 11:00-22:00. Situated on Wilanów’s new restaurant strip, Il Fornello is a little less showy in its offer than its competitors, trotting out a rather standard series of Italian staples. Not that this should be construed as criticism: there’s no need for needless overkill here, instead the chef settles for doing the basics and doing them well – nothing complicated and no surprises, just very decent food in a calm white interior that alludes to an Italian country cottage. La Vinuela ul. Klimczaka 5, tel. 22 258 0017. Open 11:00-22:00. A pleasant Wilanów wine bar, one whose stark look is balanced out by a short, concise menu that compliments the comprehensive choice of European and New World wines. Definitely recommended is the salmon served with raspberry sauce and Dijon mustard. Mała Czarna ul. Klimczaka 5, tel. 22 403 5077, www. malaczarnacafe.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. A cool little café bar, Mała Czarna start the day with breakfast and the best coffee in the area, before moving on to their other function – as a bar. Yes, a bar in Wilanów. And unlike the competition, the emphasis isn’t on wine, but whisky. There’s approximately 100 here, with Scotland having the heaviest presence. Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. The summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. But beware the mosquitoes – they’re nasty buggers out here. Ohh Sushi! ul. Wiertnicza 102, tel. 22 642 16 18, www. ohhsushi.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Operating since 1998, Ohh Sushi is categorized as one of Warsaw’s original Japanese joints. Opened long before the popularization of sushi, this veteran saw the boom, survived the crash and never broke sweat. Let their longevity speak for itself. Pod Karabelą ul. Przyczółkowa 394, tel. 663 738 643. Open 11:00-22:00. In an area defined by gleaming

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

new build and fashionable openings, Pod Karabelą is something of a throwback. There’s a stubborn sense of tradition here, one characterized by gloomy interiors peppered with oil paintings, scabbards and miscellaneous touches usually reserved for backwater bars. Modern Warsaw feels a long way away, but you get the feeling that’s something appreciated by the assembly of grumbling regulars. Pub Złoty Król ul. Kostki Potockiego 27, tel. 22 842 1852, restauracjawilanow.com. Open 11:00-23:00. You wonder how long PZK can continue to operate in their current guise. Attached to the sad-looking Restauracja Wilanów, Złoty Król largely depends on passing tourist traffic – the locals, it seems, gave up on it moons ago. Looking sad and funereal, you can’t help but think they’re wasting both their location and catchment area. Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, www. spocoloco.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain begins and doesn’t retreat until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with serious respect. But this causal eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. Taste Burger ul. Przyczolkowa 400, tel. 888 723 723, www. tasteburger.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00. Warsaw’s expanding burger culture breaches the borders of Wilanów with the opening of Taste Burger, a casual eatery with a neighborhood buzz – local twenty something’s sink into deckchairs while taking subtle tactical bites on such standouts as the shrimp burger. Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, www. taste.pl. Open daily 11:30-22:30. To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering.

Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal. Vilano ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 253 8860, www. vilano.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Sometimes you ask yourself how many Italian restaurants the area needs. The answer is neither here nor there, because it’s because of the competition that the standards are so high. Vilano joins the list of Italian winners, with its busy open kitchen offering gorgeous tagliatelle and pizza that’s so good it’s almost worth moving to Wilanów for that reason alone.

products. As well as boutique groceries, find a medicover.pl. Considered one of the most large selection of European wines and alcohol. advanced hospitals in Poland, the flagship hospital of the Medicover group matches Dr Irena Eris high comfort with the latest equipment. ul. Kosziary 37, tel. 22 651 8293, www. drirenaeris.pl. Luxury spa specializing in skin Villa Nova ul. Marconich 3, tel. 22 651 6622, www. care and treatments for all the body. villanova.pl. Endorsed by several celebs, Medicover Hospital this dental clinic offers a staggering range of Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5, tel. 22 857 2000, www. treatments and English-speaking service.

Villa Nuova ul. Stanisława K. Potockiego 23, tel. 22 885 1502, villanuova.pl. A sumptuous restaurant set inside a wedding cake manor house: with its immaculate lawns and refined interiors it’s no surprise to find this a favorite for wedding celebrations. Chandeliers, glinting tableware and pristine tablecloths announce this as the most formal of Wilanów’s restaurants, and ensure casual diners generally give it a miss. That’s a shame: the dishes are modern updates on classic Polish, and genuinely lauded by all those who try. W Kropki Bordo ul. Zaściankowa 96, tel. 502 111 073, www. wkropkibordo.pl. Open 10:00-19:00. The young demographic of Wilanów always meant that a kids café was in the pipeline, and so here you go. Filling a binary role as a toyshop/ bookstore, this jaunty little spot features matted play areas, sofas and a whole flotilla of cakes and desserts made of natural produce. Wine O’Clock ul. Hlonda 2, tel. 505 913 692. Open Mon-Fri 15:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. Let the peasants in the center have their lager, Wilanów is about wine. This latest wine bar / shop comes with the requisite wood fitting and boxes of stock lying about, as well as more unexpected touches. In keeping with the young, upwardly spirit of the area, the featured wines lean towards emerging producers from the New World.

ul. Kazachska 1 tel. 22 400 1122 www.taste.pl, rezerwacja@taste.pl Open everyday from 11:30-22:00

ul. Adama Branickiego 11 tel. 22 115 0505 www.basico.pl Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00

MISCELLANEOUS Delikatesy Gusto ul. Klimczaka 5, tel. 22 414 5553. Food produce from Spain, Greece and Italy, not to mention several certified eco and bio

ul. Adama Branickiego 11 tel. 22 258 1243 www.bistecca.pl Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00

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FOODIE NEWS A collaboration between two of Warsaw’s best known restaurant blogs (restaurantica.pl and froblog.pl), Warsaw Foodie has emerged as the No. 1 site for local food related stories. Featuring all the latest from the foodie frontline, the bilingual Warsaw Foodie promises the hottest news on what’s trending on the restaurant radar. For more info, check: www.warsawfoodie.pl/en

TALK OF THE TOWN

A One Off

Out in Saska Opened at the start of August, Z57 (Zwycięzców 57) take their chance on a location previously utilized by not one but two rather poor restaurants. But things have started brightly for the latest tenants: the bouillabaisse is “velvety, aromatic and well seasoned,” says Restaurantica, while the duck breast is, “thinly sliced, pink in the middle with a slightly sweet sauce with a cinnamon note and excellent pickled onions and potatoes.” The conclusion is emphatic in its positivity: “The service is impeccable and the food worth a revisit – and special applause for the great seasonal dishes, the standard of which we’d like to see repeated in all of Warsaw’s restaurants.”

August 18 saw the latest installment of Restaurant Day take place, with a number of ‘one day’ restaurants opening to the curiosity of foodies. Among the success stories were Yum, offering Italian food using garden-raised ingredients, Portuguese-themed Tasco Luzomania, and Garaż 108 in Milanówek.

Up North...

The name refers to the districts French connection (the name Żoliborz comes from the French Joli Bord, or Green Bank), though the menu itself has a more international spirit. Start the day with a nutritious breakfast (e.g. yogurt, granola and seasonal fruits), or for something more substantial then the English breakfast. For later, standing amid the global offerings, find such offers as Hungarian pork dumplings, hummus, Arabic habibi and Mexican guacamole. A place with definite potential, says sister blog Restaurantica.pl. See for yourself and visit Jolibord 33 at ul. Potocka 33.

Head chef Adam Leszczynski (formerly Bagno Food & Wine, Soul Kitchen) returns to the fray with the opening of Kaskrut, a slick neighborhood haunt whose name is inspired by the French word for snack: casse-croûte. The short menu involves sandwiches, and beyond them soups, salads, a scattering of mains and desserts. The menu changes weekly, and there’s an emphasis on homemade ‘real food’. Even the bread is baked on-site. Says Froblog: “Kaskrut is one of those places you want to keep to yourself as your own little secret.” Well, the secret is out. Visit Kaskrut at: ul. Poznańska 5.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Heat waves, beaches and seafood aren’t exclusive to the Mediterranean alone. Warsaw proved that this summer, with the seafood angle covered by Różowa Krewetka – a fast foot truck dispensing seafood themed pastas, tortillas, tacos and skewers. But it’s the shrimp that everyone’s been talking about, with RK selling 90 kilos of the blighters on their first Saturday of operation! To see what the fuss is about, look for them on the right side of the Wisła between Poniatowski Bridge and Temat Rzeka.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WARSAW FOODIE

… And Back in the Center

On the Move

Reviews: Muu Muu 33 Plus:

* 13 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 36 / AMERICAN 36 / ASIAN 36 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 38 / BRITISH 39 / BURGERS 39 / CHEAP EATS 41 / COOKING SCHOOLS 60 / FOOD SHOPS 59 / FRENCH 42 / GERMAN 42 /GREEK 42 / HOME DELIVERY 36 / INDIAN 44 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 44 / ITALIAN 50 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 52 / JEWISH 53 / LATIN 53 / MIDDLE EASTERN 55 / POLISH 55 / SCANDINAVIAN 59

Insider’s Pick

I PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX WEBBER

t sounds farfetched nowadays, but not long back Warsaw was a tricky place to live in. So much so, that embassy staff frequently wept into their hardship allowance whilst lamenting being stuck here as opposed to, say, a distant conflict zone. Gripes were plenty, and somewhere on the top of the list was the lack of good steak. You see, back in the olden times, restaurants would see little amiss with serving dairy cattle on your

plate. Today, such a criminal act would get the chef sewn in a sack and tossed in the river. Where once good cuts of meat were limited to corporate dining rooms and hotel feeding troughs, Warsaw has discovered a new appetite for meat. Or, more to the point, good quality meat. And among the (m)eateries at the forefront of the revolution is Muu Muu. The place is sparky, fun and engaging: small in size, décor comprises of soft colors and light woods, not to mention a bar adorned with blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’, ‘Love Bacon’, and, I like this one best, ‘A Meal without Wine is Breakfast’. It’s smart and cosmopolitan, as patio

furniture supplied by Veuve Clicquot proves (if you’re going to have branded furniture, may it least be from this mob). Most importantly, the food is an A-Class affair. The heart of their act, as you expect, is meat, and steak appears in a variety of its forms: there’s T-Bone, bison, wagyu, etc. If you’re a vegetarian (or for that matter, a cow), run. Delivered on slabs of wood, the presentation is mouthwatering – a sprig of greenery, a bucket of chips, and a thick cut of animal ready for consumption. My girlfriend orders rib-eye; wanting to see how the kitchen matches up on other fronts, I go for duck. Crisp on the out-

side, pink on the inside, it immediately replaces Donald as my favorite duck. But my enjoyment was promptly curtailed on trying a bite of ribeye. It is delightful: generously marbled, moist, tender and the size of a child’s torso. That it’s priced at just zł. 48 makes it all the better. Without asking, we’re presented with a palette cleanser – a flute of strawberry sorbet crowned with a leaf of mint. Our appetite has been gratified, but we plug on to dessert because we strongly suspect it’ll be daft not to do so. We’re correct. My chocolate fondant, maybe not the best choice on a steamy summer’s day, is a expolding molten beaut. To hell with table manners, my enjoyment is evidenced by the chocolate smears that form on my chin. Across from me, and the passion fruit cheesecake gains similar approval: I’m delighted when asked to help in the final destruction of the accompanying lemon basil ice cream – it’s gone in sixty seconds. To say I enjoyed Muu Muu is to flirt with understatement. It’s not cheap (several of the steaks are north of zł. 100), but you leave safe in the knowledge it’s been money well spent. A newbie it might be, but there’s a confidence about this place, a boldness and assurance that belies its age. And quite rightly so. The proprietor has every right to think he’s on a good thing; he bloody well is. (AW) Muu Muu ul. Moliera 8, tel. 661 951 910, www.muumuu.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:0022:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00.

Reviewer's Notes BIG SPENDERS Shouldn’t miss the T-Bone (zł. 182), 550g of pure Hereford beef. CHEAPSKATES The lamb burger is zł. 35 well spent and can easily be included on the list of Warsaw’s top burgers. MUST HAVE Serious cavemen are going to love the bone marrow for starters.

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl. Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl. Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as Rain by India Curry, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

KEY $ zł. 30 (per main)

BOW 2012 Winner........... $$ zł. 30-55 Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... $$$ over zł. 55 Child friendly................... Insider writers do Delivery............................. not accept any Free wifi.............................. form of payment in Map location pg. 86 ...... (A1) return for favorable Romantic.......................... reviews. Vegetarian friendly...........

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. Sprayed with racist graffiti over summer, it was heartening to see the local community rally round in support of the owners. As for food, that’s an authentic rundown of dishes that include baked cow back and gizzard. Unfortunately, it’s just not to our taste: the goat stew felt like one big mistake. Judging by the repeat custom, not everyone shares our view. $$

AMERICAN

size portions from the ribs and wings class. Portions might be big, but don’t anticipate any further thrills with regards to the food. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, but the burgers are always on-point inside this classic piece of stars & stripes vulgarity. $$

ASIAN

Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$

Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120. Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $

Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has the pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$

Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinesestyle ribs. $$

Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Head to Jeff’s for super-

Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes to an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$

InAzia ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00. The Sheraton has a rich history of serving some of Warsaw’s best Asian food, with chef Marcin Sasin creating a menu that draws on influences as diverse as Indonesian, Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, the experience is worth the quite considerable splurge. Note that the restaurant will be closed for the duration of August. $$$

China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. See Wilanów section, p. 29 to p. 31.

Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. What looks

like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $ Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500. Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ Natara Old Town ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13. Open 11:00-23:00. Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red

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RESTAURANTS curry duck. Highly recommended. $$ Papaya ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya. waw.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya have softened the interiors a little, giving the aesthetics a less rigid look. The menu is a considerable success and includes sushi, kobe beef and a much talked about Peking duck. Our advice, however, is to check out Poland’s only teppanyaki grill – thank us after. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988,

www.pekinduck.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750. Open 12:00-23:00. Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012. Open 12:00-last guest. If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Home of the Thursday Warsaw Curry Club

Spring Roll (D4) ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 519 828 788. Open 11:00-23:00. Baleful ballads and twangy cover versions of Bryan Bloody Adams set the mood in this eatery. The signature dish – spring rolls – don’t go beyond six out of ten, so what hope the rest of the menu? The teriyaki chicken should be renamed teriyaki chicken giblets, and comes with the addition of the worst ingredient ever devised: steamed cauliflower. Ergh. Suddenly, all those empty seats make sense. $ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283. Open 12:00-23:00. Sanad Changpuen, a man widely credited with popularizing Thai food in Poland, returns to Warsaw with predictable results: the food is a hit. And what a space this acclaimed chef has been blessed with: gold vaulted ceilings lend a muted glow to a largely black-on-black space; from the walls, serene looking Buddha’s peer on diners down below. At once, the soothing interiors ease guests into a state of inner peace while Sanad does the rest. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www. whythai.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00. A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the levels one expects. $$ Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious and the pad thai is a sure bet. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside a Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalart who’ve moved with the times and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. Looking intimate and woodsy Babooshka serves up dollops of simple Russian food

to a budget conscious crowd. The bacon and tomato scented solyanka soup is a thick broth best suited for Warsaw’s long, windy nights. $

kebab store – but the reaction from Warsaw’s food blogs suggests we may have visited on a bad day. Beware: clanking construction work next door make earplugs a must. $

Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has a severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $

U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www. umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $

Montenegro ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 885 787 887. Open 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. The two levels are covered in soothing whites, and the interiors suggest a makeover conducted with little budget but plenty of taste. Servings are immense, leaving diners no room to explore other courses, and while the cevapcici (handrolled mince) are decent, they’re no superior to anything you might get in a reputable

BRITISH The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. Open 8:00-1:00. The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors.

But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

BURGERS

Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. Now settled in newer, bigger digs, what had finished last summer as Warsaw’s favorite burger has taken the foot off the gas. The offer has been increased but, so it seems, at the cost of the quality. Nonetheless, try

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RESTAURANTS the Muppet – served on wooden trays, it’s a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. $ Bistro & Burger Bar (H4) ul. Francuska 45, tel. 666 396 967. Open 11:00-22:00. What should you expect from a place that can’t even be bothered thinking about a name? Not much, is the answer. Warsaw has great burger bars, but also a few chancers that have been foisted upon us on the back of the craze. At best, you’d call it average. When paired with disinterested service you have the makings of pretty glum time. Don’t let them get away with it. $ Bobby Burger (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, bobbyburger.pl. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Inescapably popular, but why? Maybe we’ve only visited on off days, because this Insider has yet to understand what the fuss is about. Compared to WarBurger it’s a bottom-feeder. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00. Warsaw’s love affair with burgers gets stronger with the opening of Brooklyn. With the best location of the lot, and a young American chef doing the biz in the kitchen, this is not just another copycat. Homemade sauces, wings, ribs, strips and beer (inc. Sam Adams!), make this so much more than just another burger joint. $ Burger Bar (E10)

ul. Puławska 74/80 (enter from Olkuska). Open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Hands down the sort of burger Thurman and Travolta would chow in Pulp Fiction. Decorative elements don’t go beyond tables and chairs (of which there aren’t many), and waiting times can drive you nuts – as can the tramps who stagger past to the nearby bottle bank. The burgers though are a different class. $

Ćwierćfunciak (C1) ul. Andersa 30, tel. 606 989 580. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Muranów natives, so long starved of decent options, have reason to celebrate – at last the burger trend has reached them. And it’s been an encouraging start for these lot: find spicy habanero burgers and beers from Pinta and AleBrowar – how can you possibly not like it. $

Burger Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, www.burgerkitchen.pl. Open Mon-Thu 7:30-23:00; Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00. The burger trend hasn’t even crested, and that’s not a problem so long as there are talents like Tomek Woźsniak around. His is a menu that considers everything from light, nutritious breakfasts, all the way up to sticky Hoisin chicken wings. His global travels are reflected in an outstanding offer that presents such details as homemade ketchup and authentic guacamole. As for the burger front, that involves matured, hand formed Angus meat, soft buns and sprinklings of caramelized onion and Mimolette cheese. It’s a fun, casual space with an appreciation of words like organic and nature. $ Bydło i Powidło ul. Kolejowa 47. Open 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:0021:00. Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet.

Hmm Burger (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 22 629 0565, www.hmmburger.pl. Open 10:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 12:00-last guest. With a name like Hmm Burger you expect something a little humdrum. It’s actually far from it, but in a city saturated with meat and bun options it takes something special to standout. “I’d go all the time if I lived above,” said our Insider, “but I don’t.” If you do, then the Cowboy is above-average. $ Lokal Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64. Open 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00. Dentist colors and voluminous ceilings lend an austere but pleasant look to this Polish-style burger bar. Sit outside at the woodchip tables (oww! watch for splinters…) to enjoy burgers that incorporate Polish Red Angus, Baltic cod and mountain cheese. Our tip: order a towering double burger with red onion marmalade and homemade ketchup. It’s completely delightful – if not a little messy. By the end of the meal the table will look like you’ve just given birth. $

AUTHENTIC GERMAN & BAVARIAN CUISINE ul. Mokotowska 69 00-530 Warszawa tel. 022 628 73 84 www.adlerrestauracja.pl

We also offer catering and organize special events From Mon-Fri: lunch 19PLN

Be our guest!

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Fri 12:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00. Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition, this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $ Queen Burger ul. Hoża 1. Lengthy waiting times are softened by tremendous burgers, even if the crowd isn’t to everybody’s taste: you can almost smell the air of unjustified self-satisfaction. They also serve fish and chips, which the chef describes as ‘Australian-style, not British’.

CHEAP EATS Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth

the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Fabryka Frytek ul. Złota 3, www.fabrykafrytek.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813. Open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-2:00. Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, www. groole.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a

crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Meat Love ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, www.meatlove.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:0022:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. An eco-minded sandwich stop, this intimate basement has a smart wooden look and friendly staff notable for their daring body art. The home-baked baguettes are the star, and come with a range of organic ingredients complimented with thick cuts of top quality animal. Roast beef, pulled pork and porchetta are just a few of your options. $ Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 888 021 888. Lurking amid the side streets of Powiśle, the pancakes here are brilliant and come with a heap of toppings and funny faces traced into them with icing sugar. Who cares if the staff wander around like they’ve just smoked a bong – it’s great. $

CARPACCIO ul. Nowy Świat 36, 22 692 47 26

Classic Italian cuisine: the delicious, honest tastes of a true trattoria

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RESTAURANTS Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483. Open 9:0022:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with pride of place going to fantastic Belgian-style fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. $ Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-4:00. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $

To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, www.chinskapierogarnia. pl. Open 10:00-21:00. A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $

Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134. Open 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. Authentic German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh bread. The currywurst is fabulous, and there’s also Belgian-style fries. $

FRENCH Chez Belier ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 22 11. Open 12:00-24:00. Designed by Maciej Zień – Poland’s undisputed King of Fashion – Chez Belier looks five star with its immaculate blend of black and white colors, crystal lights and orchids. The menu is a compact affair, and is perfect in every respect: from presentation to taste. Modern and international, the offer numbers a fabulous tuna steak served on a bed of mango salsa. $$$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. An excellent venue, and one whose catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów. $$ Le Connaisseur (D4) ul. Ordyńacka 13, tel. 504 080 047. Open 12:00-last guest. Flamboyant Art Deco interiors sit well with a menu created by Luc Dernaucourt. A bona fide Warsaw legend (you probably know him from the Boathouse), the Frenchman exceeds all expectations with dishes such as pigeon breast and lobster tail. We can’t wait to give you our in-depth report next issue. $$$

www.lecedre.pl ~ opposite to the ZOO ~ Al. Solidarności 61 . 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

THE BIGGEST SELECTION OF LEBANESE WINES IN EUROPE ~ opposite to the court ~ Al. Solidarności 84 . 22 61 88 999 lecedre84@lecedre.pl since 1997

Lebanese cuisine

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Pari Pari (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel. 22 628 2402, www. paripari.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:30; Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat 13:00-1:00. Also in Złote Tarasy. After an identity crisis that saw them serving up a bit of everything, chef Adam Kowalczyk has steadied the ship and returned to a more deliberately French menu. The bistro menu is very much a burgers and baguettes job, though the main menu find plenty of fish, not to say both lamb and rabbit cooked using sous vide methods. The interiors can be considered a little ritzy and in your face. $$

GERMAN

Adler ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, www.adlerrestauracja.pl. Open 10:00-23:30; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:30. Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

GREEK

The Breakfast Club

They say breakfast is the most important meal of the day – but they, whoever they may be, clearly haven’t been to Warsaw. Seemingly, this is a city that doesn’t do breakfast, let alone do it well. At least, not until Burger Kitchen opened.

know what you’re thinking: “eek! Not another burger place!?” Well, just hold fire for one minute please. Burger Kitchen is indeed a burger joint, but it’s also a lot more than that – which is why you won’t find any more mentions of burgers from this line on. You see, as unlikely as it sounds, the place has emerged as arguably the best breakfast in town. The early bird menu is brief, but it presents a winning line-up that plays organic ingredients alongside healthy prices and excellent tastes: a simple concept so you’d think, but one blithely ignored by other market players. But what will you find? Maybe opt for a simultaneous injection of food and drink: that’s made possible by way of their green smoothies, a mega boost of nutrients originally popularized in Los Angeles. But BK is not just about fad food. For my breakfast I ordered ‘Mediterranean fried eggs’, while my partner a chorizo omelet. Now I’m not usually a breakfast person, but this was impressive: creamy free range eggs piled in a gooey heap on top of a gorgeous homemade hummus and their own-baked focaccia. By a stroke of coincidence, my breakfast buddy had also found his little corner of heaven: this was an omelet like no other, and one gloriously paired by a side of guacamole – you won’t find finer anywhere in Poland. The quality should have been expected. Run by Tomek Woźniak, BK pride themselves on the provenance of their ingredients. Using locally sourced, eco-minded produce, there’s an emphasis on goodness and nature.

It’s something that’s in line with Woźniak’s food philosophy: “We buy expensive cars and fill them with expensive fuel,” says the young chef, “but what about ourselves? We fill ourselves with junk!” His menu ensures that doesn’t have to happen. Particular pride is reserved for the house porridge. Now here’s a dish that gave me nightmares at boarding school, but it’s one that’s been completely reinvented by Woźniak’s magic hand. “The challenge with porridge is to make it smooth and creamy, almost like a risotto in texture. It’s a real test of a chef’s skill, and I won’t hire any kitchen staff who haven’t passed my porridge test!” And yes, it’s a far cry from the lumpy jailhouse food I was fed as a teen. Of course, there’s much more to look forward to. The brunch deal is a highlight, and one that includes that star hummus again, avocado, focaccia, seasonal fruit, goat cheese omelet plus a glass of Prosecco (or tea and coffee). The good mood of it all is underscored by the background ambiance. Central it might be, but BK finds itself down a quiet little side street. It feels calm; soothing but with a comforting urban feel. All life passes through: people panting in from a morning jog; the office nerd playing with his laptop; young couples leafing through the papers. It simmers with cosmopolitan confidence. Is it cliché to call this a Breakfast of Champions? Maybe so. But that’s what it is. (AW) Burger Kitchen ul. Widok 8, 22 464 82 84, www.burgerkitchen.pl Open for breakfast: Mon-Fri 7:30-12:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-13:00

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RESTAURANTS Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 628 0782. Open 8:00-last guest. The design looks great, even if it plagiarizes Charlotte a touch (white brickwork, blackboard, communal table), and it even has the same chattery buzz. So the surprise here is the food is Turkish, and not just any Turkish, but excellent Turkish! The lamb and beef in tomato sauce is already part of the Insider diet, and the moussaka not far behind. But forget the word diet when it comes to dessert – the cherry chocolate cake is outstanding, but a menace to the beltline. $

INDIAN Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. With wide spaces and slick finishes Bombaj Masala takes its inspiration from the gleaming district, not (like most its competitors) from Santa’s Grotto. The food polarizes opinion, though most agree the prices don’t reflect the quality, and that the spices won’t scorch. $$ Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), www.chmielarnia.waw.pl. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef Ram knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $

Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774. It’s through happy little tears the Insider declares Curry House as the overall victor in the local curry wars. The eye-watering vindaloo stands apart as Warsaw’s most macho curry, and has been known to provoke spontaneous combustion. The other dishes are equally superb, and with this quality on show it’s easy to overlook the primary design and lunar location. Now also in Ursynów at Al. KEN 47. $ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Wildly inconsistent in terms of food and service. At a recent convention of the New Warsaw Curry Club the jalfrezi went untouched and murgh hara masala didn’t fare better. Nonetheless, the madras was declared Warsaw’s best and the murgh makhanawala destroyed in minutes. Design-wise, the chic dark décor places it a cut above most of the competition. $$ Himalaya Momo (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 36. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-22:00. There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor over, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:0021:00. Keen, supersize portions and an efficient home delivery service (indiaexpress.pl) have made this lot something of a bookmark. Not dissimilar from the curries you may have survived on as a student, Mandala are cheap, efficient and really worth checking. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104. Open 11:00-22:00. The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, while the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $

Rain by India Curry ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350. www.rain. pl. Ray Bridgeford, the former owner of the legendary Sense, is the man behind the miraculous resuscitation of India Curry. Fresh contemporary interiors look lend a chic, classy aesthetic, but it’s the menu that’s become the talk of the town. Our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in ANY Indian restaurant, but that’s not all… lending this place serious credentials as Warsaw’s best Indian are feisty curries and initiatives such as the Thursday night Rain Curry Club (zł. 69 for curry, breads and starters), and their Tiffins zł. 25 lunch deals.

Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol. The murgh makhani is fiercely inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. Nonetheless, we like it – when the chef does get it right, this place scores well. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 4/Czwarte ul. Piaseczynska 71, tel. 22 100 3139, www.4czwarte.pl. Open daily 8:00-23:00. 4/Czwarte sits smack in the middle of Warszawianka’s 29 tennis courts. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it can be rather motivating to eat and drink to the plop of the tennis balls. Chef Kinga Araucz brings a fresh eye to food in Warsaw, and her modern menu

combines combines well well with with the the pleasantly pleasantly congenial congenial atmosphere atmosphere and and sharp sharp interior. interior. $$ $$ 12 (D5) 12 Stolików Stolików (D5) ul. ul. Krucza Krucza 16/22, 16/22, tel. tel. 519 519 151 151 504. 504. open Open 9:00-23:00. 9:00-23:00. affecting Affecting aa boutique boutique style, style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with with lifestyle lifestyle titles. titles. and And forming forming the the central central element element is is the the kitchen kitchen – – yes, yes, here’s here’s aa place place that that promotes promotes cooking cooking as as aa form form of of theater. theater. the menu is chalked on a board, and while The menu is chalked on a board, and while alio alio olio olio was was overcooked, overcooked, the the big big guns guns came came out out for for the the steak: steak: aa very very decent decent piece piece of of meat. meat. enjoyable Enjoyable enough, enough, though though nothing nothing particularly particularly memorable. memorable. $$ $$ Akademia Akademia ul. 828 99 ul. różana Różana 2, 2, tel. tel. 22 22 828 99 11. 11. open Open 12:00-24:00. 12:00-24:00. the The most most high high profile profile launch launch of of 2013, 2013, with with whole whole sections sections of of street street blocked blocked off off to to keep keep the the beautiful beautiful people people from from being being molested molested by by the the public. public. but But while while the the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef grzegorz prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski Nowakowski has has done done an an excellent excellent job job on on an an artfully artfully simple simple menu menu that that fits fits seamlessly seamlessly with with the the white-on-white white-on-white interiors. interiors. $$ $$

A A Nóż Nóż ul. 386 388. open ul. różana Różana 30, 30, tel. tel. 608 608 386 388. Open 9:009:0023:00. 23:00. ‘a ‘A Jack Jack of of all all trades, trades, master master of of none,’ none,’ you you might might think. think. you’d You’d be be wrong. wrong. burgers, Burgers, pastas, pastas, asian-inspired Asian-inspired salads, salads, and and pizzas pizzas are are represented, represented, and and while while some some dishes dishes require require fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. Paired Paired with with aa cool, cool, typically typically Warsaw Warsaw interior interior (white, (white, white, white, white), white), the the owners owners have have aa real real success success story story on on their their hands. hands. $$

having chef luc to thoughlost howtheir theyFrench fare having lostremains their French be seen. $$ chef Luc remains to be seen. $$

Bistecca Bistecca Bistro ul. 258 1243, ul. branickiego Branickiego 11, 11, tel. tel. 22 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. www.bistecca.pl. open Open 12:00-23:00. Sun-Thu 12:00See Wilanów section, p. 29 to p. 31. 22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00.

Brasserie Brasserie Warszawska Warszawska ul. ul. górnośląska Górnośląska 24, 24, www.brasseriewarszawska. www.brasseriewarszawska. pl. pl. open Open Mon-Sat Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. 12:00-22:00. aA posh posh looking looking bistro whose credentials bistro whose credentials are are supported supported by by crisp crisp shirted shirted staff, staff, gleaming gleaming surfaces surfaces and and zinc zinc mirrors. mirrors. the The menu menu changes changes daily, daily, and and on on the the Insider’s Insider’s visit visit included included outstanding outstanding Fine Fine de de Claire Claire oysters oysters on on aa bed bed of of fennel. fennel. the The english English influence influence of of an an owner owner who who once once managed managed the The grill Grill at at london’s London’s Dorchester Dorchester hotel, Hotel, shines shines through through on on Friday Friday when when dishes dishes like like fish fish & & chips chips are served. $$$ are served. $$$

See Wilanów section, p. 29 to p. 31. Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, (G4) Boathouse tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00tel. 22Mon-Sat 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open 22:00. For12:00-23:00; the supersize treatment head For Mon-Sat Sun 12:00- 22:00. to a leviathanhead restaurant set in theboathouse, supersize treatment to Boathouse, three acres of parklandset – perfect lazyof a leviathan restaurant in threefor acres summer family and friends. parklandSunday’s – perfectwith for lazy summer Sunday’s the Mediterranean styleiswith withmenu familyisand friends. The in menu Mediterstrong of Italian, though how fare raneanhints in style with strong hints of they Italian,

Bufet (D5) Bufet Centralny Centralny (D5) ul. ul. Żurawia Żurawia 32/34, 32/34, tel tel 523 523 749 749 160. 160. open Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun Sun 14:00-24:00. 14:00-24:00. With With white white tiles, tiles, an an artsy artsy carpentered carpentered bar bar and and draftsman draftsman desk desk lamps lamps hanging hanging from from the the walls, walls, bufet Bufet certainly certainly gets gets points points for for design. design. the hungarian fish soup is delicious, while The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the the chocolate chocolate soufflé soufflé is is airy, airy, gooey gooey and and all all things things nice. nice. but But choice choice diminishes diminishes quickly quickly – – get get there there early early to to order order the the ribs. ribs. $$ $$

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RESTAURANTS

Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www. butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. The most talked about restaurant of 2011 shows no sign of waning. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach, and commonly considered the best in the city. In the evening, reservations remain recommended. $$

luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct: five course set lunch menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining BEST WAWA 2012 rarely gets better. $$$ “Restaurant for a Business Meeting” Winner, “Restaurant Design” Winner

By The Way Bottega Kulinarna ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. 22 692 7239, www.bytheway.com. pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Everything here looks fantastic – the pared down interiors with their concrete greys and houndstooth touches, and the food. Oh yes, the food. There’s about five mains to hover on, the highlight being the duck breast. The meringue dessert is heaven, as well. $$

Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, www.derelefant.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. A Titanic-sized restaurant with a disorganized menu that appears to have been devised by throwing darts at a cookbook: Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc. But if the menu is blurry, the cooking isn’t: it’s average/ acceptable to very good. The interiors are a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles, and frequently pack out to the rafters with families and other unwieldy groups. $$

Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac

Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$ Duchnicka Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, duchnickawinebar.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. Filling the boots of outgoing chef Joseph Seeletso is Michał Budnik, a rising star with a bright future ahead. The thrilling menu includes cappuccino soup, and a totally triumphant T-Bone. $$ Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www. flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00. A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren.

Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small playground in the park that it views. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$

The Harvest (L12) Domaniewska 34 (Ambassador Office Building), tel. 660 750 600. Here’s one for the diary. Opening in September we’re told to anticipate a slow food menu sourced from farmers produce and organic farms. That Robert Trzópek (formerly of El Bulli and Noma) is in charge of the kitchen suggests something phenomenal is about to happen. Hoża by Mondovino ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275. Open 12:00-

RISTORANTE SAN LORENZO

22:00 (or last guest). Stepping inside, the place feels dark, which is a refreshingly unorthodox sensation in Warsaw – really, when was the last time you saw a new restaurant that wasn’t decorated in the same bright white colors and bleach wood fittings. Having a chef who runs his own meat shop is a blessing, with the meat here coming out absolute trumps. $$ Jasna 24 ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 24 41, www.jasna24. pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. Slick, modern and loungey in look, Jasna 24 has a creative menu that include the use of deliciously unexpected combinations. Roll up on Wednesday’s if you prefer your dinner served with a slice of live music. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. That the head chef, Paweł Oszczyk, came within a whisker of pipping Wojciech Amaro in

AL. JANA PAWŁA II 36

the Best Chef category of our 2012 awards says a lot. And he’s not the only star on the pay roll: there’s also Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier. Mixing ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences’, Oszczyk’s menu is built for superlatives. The venison is magnificent, and on our visit came served by Poland’s most theatrical waiter – someone, give him a BEST WAWA 2012 “Hotel TV show. $$$ Restaurant” Winner Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest. Set with gingham tablecloths, antiques and launderette detritus, Magiel is as charming as they come. But don’t let the café part of the name fool you – the cooking here demands attention. Specializing in eco-minded slow food produce, the ever-rotating menu is fresh, natural and packed with taste. $$ Momu.Gastrobar ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 10001. Open 9:002:00. Tapas-style portions of experimental-

TEL. 22 652 1616 WWW.SANLORENZO.PL facebook.com/warsawinsider

RESTAURANTS looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. But while it looks good, the Insider found it all very hit and miss… we could be alone on this – we’ve heard good things since, suggesting we visited on an off day. $ Nolita ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita. pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00. A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina

– a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, we enjoyed Tournedos Rossini: a victorious dish comprised of dainty pink meat, black truffles, foie gras and pureed potatoes served in a cast iron pot. Heaven. And order the sorbet. Dusted with a secret cosmic ingredient, first taste gives an intense fizzy sensation that’s utterly unexpected. One of the top dining rooms in Poland. $$$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

An Exceptional Butcher shop!!! 100% fresh Polish Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef Quality lamb and veal Seasoned steak: New York, rib-eye, T-bone, filet mignon... We look forward to seeing you!

ul. Domaniewska 17/19 Mon-Sun: 12.00-21.00 phone: 22 847 16 63 mobile: 506 813 300

www.ousushi.pl

Ou Sushi is a magical place where the culinary tradition of the east meets the fantasy and modernity of the west. The secret to our success is our constant quest for perfection.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook Passe Partout. But you’d be a fool to do so. Unassuming it might be, but there’s something clearly very right with the kitchen. The diverse international menu has too many positives to count, though the Insider recommends the pork tenderloin: served with a blue cheese and balsamic sauce, it’s a plate licking meal. The back garden is a secret summer treat. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:0020:00. Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean.

Oś. Marina Mokotów ul. Przejazd 4 (next to the bank) Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 9:00-14:00 For telephone orders: 797 866 131

See Wilanów section, p. 29 to p. 31.

Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00. Maturing from the murky concept of restobar, Porto Praga have entered a new stage of life: that of a fine dining establishment. The chef’s philosophy is to maintain the natural flavor of ingredients, and the slow food angle is emphasized by magnificent lamb from Połoniny region. PP are equally proud of their seafood, so visit on Thursday / Friday when their ‘fish market’ menu introduces the likes of monkfish, John Dory and strawberry grouper. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 600 806 084. Bistro, bakery, hangout. However you choose to label SAM, it’s the talk of the town. Noisy Charlotte won all the press last summer, this time round its SAM. Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www. The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00the day, with touches like communal tables 23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the 12:00-22:00. Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer commitment to good, healthy eating employed the top dog for business wining / dining, it here. $$ nonetheless remains a very safe choice for Signature (D5) perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, www. Rozbrat 20 (F5) signaturerestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295, www. Described by one reader as ‘a Monegasque rozbrat20.pl. Open Mon-Thu 7:30-23:00; state of mind at affordable prices,’ Signature Fri 7:30-last guest; Sat 9:00-last guest; Sun is the bottom line in understated luxury: 9:00-22:00. Everything a restaurant should cutlery by Eternum, original Marilyn photos be – modern, but not too excessive, as well shot by Milton Greene, 1950s Oswald chairs as traditional at the same time. Elegance and reliefs dating from the days when this was emanates from everything and class glints the inter-war Soviet Embassy. But it’s the food off the silver champagne bowl and tasteful that leaves the final impression. Wojtek Kilian crockery. The menu is a contemporary, looks set to be Poland’s next big chef, and international affair, much like the crowd who his cooking is simply extraordinary. The menu appreciate it. $$ stands to change soon, so we’re crossing our

fingers that the foie gras duo survives any revisions. All things considered, the prices are a bargain. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec. waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a SwissPolish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, www. stoldzielnia.pl. Open 13:00-22:00. A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark, sterile colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian

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RESTAURANTS ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. Wow. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. There is an inspiration here which causes guests to linger over their meal, explore it and wonder at it. Food isn’t the background; it is the centerpiece. While Robert Trzópek has left the kitchen, he’s been ably replaced by Rafał Hreczaniuk – his menu pitches modern techniques against traditional – primarily root ingredients. It’s amazing. $$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachzska 1, tel. 400 1122, www.taste.pl. Open 11:30-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. See Wilanów section, p. 29 to p. 31. Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, www.winosfera.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00. There have been many reasons to get excited this year, and one of them has been the success of Winosfera. You may think wine is the main talking point here, but actually, it’s the chef: Jakub Admaczyk, an upcoming star who studied his trade in Michelin mainstay The Square. His menu is scintillating: ordering the beef tenderloin is a must, as is the rhubarb parfait. You’ll be happy to pay the heavy handed prices. $$$

Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 697 259. Open 10:00-22:00. The intimate Wootwórnia

features a spontaneous menu whose principal consistency is an adherence to the motto of the owners: ‘eat well’. Offering a full urban chillout experience, perhaps the most celebrate element of this notable venue comes in the shape of the homemade pies. $

ITALIAN Bacio ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, www. bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Under new management the new look Bacio has been decluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top eats in town. $$ Bistro Toscana ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9967, www.bistrotoscana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:30-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. A classic neighborhood Italian with a friendly air and the standard rundown of items: spaghetti, penne, gnocchi etc. That all contributes to building a healthy set of repeat customers. $$

Carpaccio (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 692 4726. The Italian influence looms heavy here: the Italian owner patrols the restaurant floor, while Carmelo, a Sicilian, ensures nothing but

excellence exits the wood-fired pizza oven. The quality of the hams is undisputed, as a try of the Parma ham bruschetta immediately proves. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? $$ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www. enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27. Open 13:00last guest. You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce. Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ La Tomatina (D4) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in a modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. $

Mąka i Woda ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87. Open 17:00-22:00. When Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro pops in with his family you know something is going right. Here the statement piece is a Stefano Ferrara Napoli oven, used to maximum effect to create pizzas which have come to be considered Warsaw’s best. Import ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Caputo flour add to the authenticity, and there’s a medley of other ‘staples from Naples’. $

Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$

Mamma Marietta (C10) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071. Open 12:00-22:00. Famed in ex-pat circles, head chef Andrea (formerly of Da Aldo) has created a bright bijou eatery that’s openly regarded as one of the finest and most authentic Italian experiences in Poland. The seafood has a particularly stellar reputation, as does the smattering of Sicilian dishes. $$

Nonsolo pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Basic but modern looking: can be described as ‘cutprice cosmopolitan’. The kitchen takes Stage Center, and a stage it is – amateur theatrics are sometimes part of the bill. A staggering choice of pizzas await (we counted 48, but might have got it wrong), and while they’re pretty decent it’s a while since Nonsolo was talked about as being Warsaw’s best pie. $

Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 756 3343. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-21:00;

Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00.

ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20 www.dawnesmaki.pl

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RESTAURANTS The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3)

Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in

design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Superiore ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, www. superiorewinebar.pl. Mon-Sun 12:00-10:00. A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$

Sorbo Serpico (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 604 131 721. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Heavy interiors clotted with figurines and flowers hark back to the restaurant’s previous incarnation as Bacio Angelo. The menu though has had an update, and contains a decent bruschetta starter, and a wonderful steak in green pepper sauce. More changes are promised, making this one to keep an eye on. $$ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej (D2)) ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 & ul. Taśmowa 7, www. vapiano.de/pl. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$

JASNA 24 was created for all those who don’t only appreciate excellent food, refined drinks and elegant spaces, but also a dash of flavor from the world of art and culture. We have live music every Wednesday, a comfortable atmosphere, magnificent cocktails and a modern, contemporary menu.

Welcome to our little corner of Italy! delizia is the place where we express our passion... -Luca & Lorenzo delizia Ristorante Italiano ul. Hoza 58/60 (entry from ul. Poznańska), Warsaw RESERVATION: info@delizia.com.pl, tel. 22 622 66 65 Mon-Sat noon to 10 p.m. (or last guest)

Restaurant: Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Drink Bar: Fri-Sat 17:00-last guest ul. Jasna 24 tel. 22 447 24 41 restauracja@jasna24.pl, www.jasna24.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Venti-tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. The high class confines of the Hyatt are the home of Venti Tre, a contemporary restaurant with an open kitchen, and a Mediterranean inspired menu constructed using carefully sourced ingredients from local suppliers. The results are outstanding. $$$

JAPANESE & SUSHI Hana Sushi (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), www.hanasushi. pl. Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955, www.inaba.pl. Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. It's an old-timer, but it's still up there as a real contender. $$

Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open daily 12:00last guest last guest. Also on Biały Kamień 4. The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Ou Sushi ul. Domaniewska 17/19, tel. 22 847 16 63, www.ousushi.pl. Open 12:00-21:00. There can never be enough sushi in Warsaw, not least when it’s this good. The temaki rolls are outstanding. $$

Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute. Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi Club (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414. Open 12:0023:00. A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave. The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We return for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Marina-Mokotów ul. Warowna 1, tel. 493 0302. Open 12:0022:00. Since its heyday in the 00s sushi has been in decline in Warsaw – well, no-one told Marina-Mokotów, and it’s a good job as well. Completely creative in its offer, this isn’t just another Wa-wa sushi joint. Elaborate rolls are built with forensic precision using the freshest of ingredients. In a place like this, it’s easy to fall in love with sushi all over again. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit

and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tekeda ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818, www. sushitekeda.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. In an area plagued by tourist rip-offs, Tekeda get it right with a good balance of sushi and wok dishes. The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them frequently at war with the people they serve. $

LATIN & MEXICAN

Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 1020, www.aioli-cantine.com. Open 9:00-last guest. A jaunty Mediterranean space with hanging hocks of ham and long communal tables. Aioli’s breakfast, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas all seem decent enough, but you can’t help wonder why it’s struck a chord with the public – it’s fine as an evening out, but nothing hugely memorable. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Cactus has been around for aeons, but such was its fall from grace people had started referring to in the past tense. Enter new executive chef, Californian Patrick Hanna. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Northern Mexico, Hanna has turned the ship around in magnificent style. It’s not back to its best, it’s better than that. $$

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RESTAURANTS Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5782. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-18:00. Set to the flank of a glinting office building, Casa Pablo touts an interesting design composed of tartan colors, upturned wine crates and a mirror that we’re told is over a century old. But if you think that’s interesting, then take a look at the menu. Modeled round the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, dishes include scallop carpaccio with foie gras, and a duck breast burger with Mahon cheese, raspberry ketchup and truffle sauce. Servings are small and precise, but even so, we like what we see. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www.dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. Adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes, cheerful Dos Tacos belies its office block location. With an increasing amount of American custom, some have even

gone as far as to call it Warsaw’s best Mexican. Either way, the burritos are grand and the sauces peerless: beginners should order the salsa set, a great mix that ranges from tasty to volcanic. $ Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, www.spocoloco.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Also ul. Francuska 8. Open 12:00-22:00. See Wilanów section, p. 29 to p. 31. Tex Mex (H4) ul. Zwycieczów 11. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Featuring a street level take out window and a glum looking

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

basement, Tex Mex is a crushing experience where everything from the tortillas to the salsa taste like something you’d pick up in a supermarket. And, yay Gods, there’s the obligatory dollop of Polski-style salad loaded with gherkins. $ The Mexican (D1) ul. Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, www.mexican.pl. Everything Mexican food shouldn’t be. There’s zero zing, and no matter what you order anticipate mysterious gloop with lots of mashed cabbage. It’s all such a shame, because with its burbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks like it could be the real deal. Find their latest imposter hawking for custom on Zgoda 6. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Hefty portions, freshly made tortillas and salsas that will rattle your brain are the core principles here. But don’t think of WTF as a mere restaurant. This ex-pat haven

has it all, from live sports, bands and a party atmosphere that drags long into the night. $$

MIDDLE EASTERN Le Cedre (F1)

work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$

www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:0023:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www.lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors

Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. Just what you didn’t expect – a restaurant specializing in the food of Yemen. Featuring lots of spicy meat dishes, and a few Indian-style offerings as well, here’s a fantastic spot that arouses curiosity and taste buds alike. The interiors are snug and pleasant, and not short on surprises – e.g. a concrete telephone pole adorned with potted plants. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080,

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.amberroom.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00. The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by

POLISH DELICACIES: - Home-made bread - Polish style duck from the oven - Polish fish - Polish seasoned beef steaks ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45 00-071 Warszawa tel. 22 826 47 70 info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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RESTAURANTS modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre molecular interludes (aloe leaves, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. BEST Reservations mandatory. $$$ WAWA 2012 “Contemporary Polish” Winner, New Restaurant” Winner, “Best Chef” Winner Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, www.bazyliszek.waw.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an

atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though,

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, www. dawnesmaki.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00. At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. The deer steak is highly recommended. $$

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. Clad in heavy wood furniture, it’s akin to happening on a log mountain cabin. Quaint, cute and charming, Folk Gospoda trades sophistication and other Warsaw values in exchange for a hearty style that recalls village life. The menu, presented by waiters dressed

like Zakopane tinkers, is a sturdy affair and promises all the dishes expected of a traditional banquet. Mains are a manly affair (solid, meaty and served in generous portions), while the chłodnik is, says one Polish associate, “the best I’ve ever had”. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Recently voted as one of the 25 most interesting restaurants in the world! And we’re not surprised – bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings, the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing: while Marx and Co. never actually ate here (as their menu claims), lads like Bruce Willis and Lennox Lewis have. The menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and for dignitaries, and is an experience in itself. $$ Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731. Open 12:0024:00. You want to like Kameralna, and the Insider certainly does – as a brewery. As a restaurant, however, it simply doesn’t work.

Stodgy food, small portions, plain tastes: but what do you expect from a restaurant inspired by 50s / 60s commie-era Poland. $ Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898. Open 11:00-23:00. Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, summer glow. $$ Pierrogeria (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 22 743 7644, www.pierrogeria.eu. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. A jolly, busy restaurant that sees it all: from busloads of tourists, to locals who recognize this as the great deal it

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RESTAURANTS is. Pierogi are the forte, obviously, though the emphasis on fresh and natural ingredients extends all the way down to the drinks: there’s even Polish ecological wine. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $

Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00. Prasowy’s story dates from 1954 when it first opened as a feeding station for the local proletariat. Following a sensitive refit that retained much of its original milk bar spirit, Prasowy returned over summer, and specializes in exactly what

it did before: honest, simple food for the everyman. $ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Touting a refined, baronial setting, Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces and flickering candles, giving off plenty of classic charm in the best possible taste. With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the BEST WAWA 2012 “Polish top table. $$ with Style” Winner

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U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. You’re in the thick of the action here, with dining conducted in the former kitchen of the historic Hotel Europejski – once the most luxurious hotel in the Tsarist Empire. The atmosphere is one of orchestrated chaos, and the chefs love a bit of showmanship: expect Ramsay-style tantrums sometimes inches from your face. The steak tartar is rated across town, though standards have slipped considerably BEST WAWA 2012 in recent times. $$ “Welcome to Poland” Winner

U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appear to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, ul. Wańkowicza 1, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

SCANDINAVIAN Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256. Open Mon-Fri: 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:0021:30. The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. Fantastic. BEST WAWA 2012 “Most Kid Friendly $$ Restaurant” Winner

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS African Shop ul. Andersa 27, tel. 507 247 292, www.afroeuro. eu. Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection.

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00. Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

The new place on the map of Warsaw The new place on the map of Warsaw

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. Food & Joy ul. Nowy Świat 7, www.foodandjoy.eu. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-17:00. A new, upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma. Hala Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63. Open Tue-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-17:00. This charming neo-Gothic pile of bricks hosts one of the quaintest little bazaars Warsaw’s ever seen. On the ground floor, there’s a fantastic butcher’s and fruit out back. Upstairs, cold cuts, Greek seafood, cheese, a juice bar and Warsaw’s best cakes. Repeat after me: Warsaw’s best cakes. Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 51 piekna@jazzone.pl www.jazzone.pl

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available. La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:0020:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo,

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 51 piekna@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl

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RESTAURANTS French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more. Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves. Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4, tel. 797 866 131. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 9:00-14:00. Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less! Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Nowy Targ in Nowy Teatr ul. Madalińskiego 10/16. Open Sat 9:0015:00. Since the beginning of April Nowy Targ

has been gathering local, small-scale producers, some organically certified, in a huge industrial building in the middle of Mokotów. Nowy Targ offers a plethora of things: from regional products such as oscypek and smoked meats to ready-to-eat fare (coffee, cakes, roasted sausages) to candles made from organic soy wax. Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a BEST range of foods from Spain and France. WAWA 2012 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. Find a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butcher, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables, but at a cost. Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego. Open Sat 8:00-14:00.

The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

COOKING SCHOOLS Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl. Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Themes from March included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work. Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, www.jospehseeletso.pl. A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself. Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, www.schelleracademy.pl. Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw” ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl. For reservations: rezerwacja@nolita.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Reviews: Café Iluzja 61 / Plus:

* 1 update

CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 61 / WINE BARS 62

KEY

Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

BOW 2012 Winner........... Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... Child friendly................... Delivery............................. Free wifi.............................. Map location pg. 86 ...... (A1) Romantic.......................... Vegetarian friendly...........

CAFÉS Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who had a fondness for their donuts.

Café Iluzja ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, www.cafeiluzja.pl. Open 11:00-22:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KAROLINA KALINOWSKA

ike every self-respecting establishment, the revamped Iluzjon Cinema couldn’t do without a café on par with it’s beautifully refurbished interiors and exteriors. The cinema itself has been around since the 50s but in 2012 was treated to an update that included the opening of this chic café. Bathed in white and black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black and white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. Yet their biggest selling point is undoubtedly the large patio in front, equipped with deck chairs, perfect for languid September days and nights. In terms of fare, expect large sandwiches, quiches and cakes but also a soup of the day, which is usually quite an original one. Their lunch deals, which include a sandwich/ quiche/salad plus soup plus drink, range from zł. 20 to zł. 25 and are very good value for money, especially considering the drinks include their lovely lemonade. And the lunch deals are even valid on the weekends. The all-natural fruit ice cream pops made by Lodove and freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices are also worth trying. Warsaw seems to really be experiencing a boom in cafés that either roast their own coffee or have it roasted locally – and we’re not complaining about this trend. Iluzja has jumped on the bandwagon with their 100% Arabica sourced directly from the plantations and roasted locally in Warsaw. But it’s not just for coffee and lemonades we go – Iluzja stocks Poland’s own Cider Inn and Ortodox Stout, as well as other brews and various wines to chose from. Even though we visited Iluzja in the heat of the summer, it works just as well on a balmy autumn afternoon, iced coffee or chilled beer in hand. (KK)

Brooklyn Bakery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 508 800 787. Open Mon-Thu 7:30-22:00; Fri-Sat 7:30-7:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. The décor is confused and cliché, but that’s the least of their worries – the food is catastrophic. Even the bruschetta, a safe choice you’d think, came with garlic overkill and prepared on a soggy white ‘baguette’ with the tell-tale imprints of a supermarket acquired offender. Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff. Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Puławska 24, www.bulkeprzezbibulke. pl. Open 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00. There’s definitely a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better.

HARD ROCK CAFE WARSAW IS NOW SERVING BREAKFASTS

Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team. Café Lorentz Al. Jerozolimskie 3. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks. As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy. Christian’s Bakerhouse ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00. A top quality bakery/café/restaurant owned by celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski. Fixed up in rustic style, the ever changing menu round at Christian’s is mostly filled with Italian staples – but with a twist. Think pappardelle with roasted duck slices and rosemary. Croque Madame (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 41, tel. 793 794 318. Open 8:00-22:00. A French-themed charmer with rough, white painted brickwork, distressed wooden furniture and lots of eccentric bric-a-brac to keep an eye out for. Dealing out fresh baguettes and pastries, the whole boulangerie/café concept is excellently executed. Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 22 881 8677. Open Mon-Sun 12:0021:00. Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair. Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21. Open 10:00-22:00. An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are even better though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

WITH ANY BREAKFAST GET YOUR AMERICAN COFFEE FOR FREE! DRINK ALL YOU WANT!

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00. An attractive modern cafe whose primary talking point is the terrace: a colorful affair shaded by dozens of umbrellas dangling from above. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822,

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net. Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience. Koszyki (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63. Open Tue-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-17:00. Not just Warsaw’s best urban market, but also a very decent café. Set in the ceramic tiled entrance of Hala Koszyki, there’s some fabulous food squiggled on the blackboard, and that definitely includes the boeuf bourgignon. Find a raw juice stand and fruit and fish stalls in the sunny yard/ruin behind. La Lush ul. Senatorska 24. Open Mon-Fri 6:00-18:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-18:00. Lovely bread-based fare, homemade marmalades and coffee beans roasted just for them: La Lush is already something of a favorite. It closes early by Warsaw’s standards, but the times prove quite sufficient considering the menu La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. Limoni Canteri 1952 ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open 8:00-22:00. Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like

cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil. Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards. Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote. blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior. Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award. Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories.

art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), www.myomy.pl. Open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor. The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

Om Nom Nom ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 10:00-23:00. Looking clean, clinical but strangely warming, Om Nom Nom specialize in their own ice cream lollies: all in cutesy designs and dipped in MiTo (D6) crunchy colorful toppings. The beer is just as ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito. good, with independent Polish brewers well art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. represented. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that Piaskownica (E3) concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 9:00-last guest;

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar

Chef Martin presents steak & seafood Choose from our personal selection of fine wine The New Address for Wine Lovers & Epicureans! ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 hoza@mondovino.pl Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. During daylight it’s a coffee bar; come nightfall beer becomes the choice of the people. Popular with college kids, find announcements like ‘Tofu Attack’ chalked on the blackboards. Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. Informal looking with its clean white finishes and stripped wood floors, it’s an ideal spot for a lazy weekend – and with the garden furniture back out, few places in Warsaw feel so naturally continental. The food, it needs to be said, is very good indeed, with hefty steaks, multiple burgers and some fine desserts. Relaks ul. Puławska 48. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Delete Starbucks from memory: if you take your coffee seriously, then no-one does it better than this lot. Using a number of brewing methods, the baristas here are top of their trade, doing their stuff in a cool interior with a heavy retro accent. Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest. It’s a winner! Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 601 318 966. Open 9:00-4:00. Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. There’s few better places to order the Prosecco and act oh so continental. Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16. Open Mon-Thu 10:0022:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

WINE BARS Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishings by the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special. In summer, there’s two further reasons to visit: a quiet terrace shaded by a sail, and gazpacho like we’ve never had before. Cabernet ul. Woronicza 31, tel. 22 115 13 04, www.cabernet.net.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:0022:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Warsaw’s appetite for the grape shows no sign of abating. The latest wine bar to hit the market has a warehouse look, a strong menu – with surprisingly modest prices – and a drinks selection of approximately 150 wines: most of which are available by the glass. Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Duchnicka Wine & Food Tucked away off center in a renovated factory, Duchnicka functions as a wine store, restaurant and an emphatically good wine bar – so good, in fact, it was the runaway winner in our annual awards. There’s over 700 wines to pick from, and you won’t go wrong placing faith in the sommelier, Rafał Kiś. BEST WAWA 2012 “Wine Bar” Winner Hoża by Mondovino ul. Hoża 25, tel. 603 778 275. Open a matter of hours before we hit the printers, so we’ve no report yet other than we’ve been told to expect big, big things from this café-resto-bar hybrid. So we hear, there’s an expert Argen-

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

tinean chef at the helm – we can’t wait to see what he does with the grill. Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. The summer courtyard garden is a particular standout feature. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Retaining a fiercely loyal customer base, some argue it’s the best wine bar in Warsaw, others that it’s the best in Poland. Combining old and new world wines this pared-down warehouse is filled to bursting with crates and boxes, thought the best aspect is the verdant green square it’s centered around. Sitting outside, you ask yourself, “Am I really in Warsaw?” Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats. WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, www. winkolekcja.pl. Open 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00. You can’t pick your neighbors... In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options. Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 29/31. Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection. Opened in Feb, it’s already become a much used Insider hangout.

Reviews: Równonoc 65 / Plus:

* 6 updates

NIGHTLIFE

BARS & PUBS 65 / CLUBS 69 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 70 / JAZZ CLUBS 70 / OUTDOOR BARS 70 / SHOT BARS 68

KEY

Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews

BOW 2012 Winner........... Food Served.................... Free wifi.............................. Live Music.......................... Map location pg. 86 ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

BARS & PUBS Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Równonoc ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 787 982 242. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-5:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

hat is ul. Chmielna if it isn’t a conundrum. Potentially we’re talking about gold nugget real estate and a fine atmospheric street. In reality though, it’s never quite seized its opportunity as one of Warsaw’s key pedestrian thoroughfares. But instead of following in the footsteps of high-living Foksal or hedonistic Mazowiecka, Chmielna feels like a wasted opportunity – an area of bubble tea shops, failing clubs and shops dealing trinkets and lairy underwear. Opening anything else feels a twist and a gamble. So well done Równonoc. True, it won’t be to everyone’s taste. Outside, you can’t help but feel they’ve lost out on the terrace stakes: while the likes of Chillout Factory and Flow have nailed the outdoor seating lark, Równonoc settle for five cheap tables squashed on a small piece of pavement. Not that you really want to sit outside. With so many competing places blasting out different music (even the jeffing soap shop gets in on that front), it’s a little jarring. And then the buskers turn up, banging tambourines and yodeling out-of-key. If you’re unlucky, so too will the panhandlers, enquiring (and not always gently) as to the availability of your last cigarette. Inside, some might feel they’re walking into a headache. The shapes and colors clash uncomfortably against each other: azure, tangerine and motorway grey. Slowly though, I found myself liking it. Long and narrow and with a mezzanine on top, the place feels young and engaging. The food is good, and so too the beer (in a street still heaving with Carlsberg and Żywiec, it’s a plus to find such diversions as Fortuna and Czarny Kot). The people, too, are friendly. These aren’t Warsaw’s hipsters, just Warsaw’s young. Do Równonoc know who they are? A café? A bar? Their message is confused. The atmosphere, however, is not. It’s a fun operation full of youth-ish energy. Importantly, it doesn’t take itself seriously as anything other than a happy little haunt. In that respect it works, and it works very well. It’s not going to change the direction of Warsaw nightlife, but it might change the direction of your night. Have a beer, get talking to the crowd and let nature take its course. (AW)

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. How fickle this city can be. The big fail of 2012. Forget that it’s the most accurate replica of a traditional British pub around, and consider instead the heinous service, fried aromas and a deserved ex-pat boycott traced to the dismissal of the original British manager. Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00. An artsy carpentered bar, white wall tiles and trendy draftsman desk lamps lend the severe looking Bufet Centralny no shortage of style, and instinct suggests it’ll continue to serve as one of Warsaw’s more happening bars for some time to come. But the service and customers do think highly of themselves, points outsiders might find obnoxious. Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), www.chmielarnia.waw.pl. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A subterranean space that can get loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky. Featuring a ‘tomb’ of mainstream beers, Chmielarnia may look a little basic, but it’s definitely the real deal. A peerless selection of craft beer sees 40

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NIGHTLIFE lagers rotated on 15 taps, and even more rare finds in the fridge: among them BrewDog, Lindemanns, and of course a comprehensive choice of experimental Polish brews. Coctail Bar Max (E5) ul. Krucza 16/22, www.barmax.pl. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for summer. The cocktails are often extravagant affairs that resemble a tropical jungle in condensed form. Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106. Open 9:00-last guest. Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here! Marketed at normal people – not just hipsters, for a change – this sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the four glass walls. Could it be too basic? No – anything else would detract from the main attraction: the beer. About 15 taps dispense regional brews, cult indy productions as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond. Czarna.Bar ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 22 416 2467. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:0021:00. The look doesn’t say ‘just finished’, it says ‘haven’t even started’. Cables hang from walls, and specks of paint cover the grey / white surfaces – whether this is actually part of the final design one can only guess. It’s upstairs you’ll find most people moving to, and we like it very much. Looking fashionably spartan, the area includes an L-shaped

mattress thing, and a glass wall which allows you to peer in on the chef downstairs. Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open TuesThurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00. Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00. Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and BEST WAWA let the night take its course. 2012 “Cocktails” Winner

Gorązcka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00. Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking

a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20. Open Mon-Weds 10:00-24:00; Thu-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Creating a huge buzz in July, newly-opened Haka combines the talents of its three owners tp maximum effect. Kiwi Shane has created an inventive, modern menu that reinvents the term bar food, while Irishman Kevin ensures smooth running of the bar. Final glue is provided by Kasia, a glamorous wine buff with an attention for detail. An intimate space clad in brickwork and metal, it’s a positively international effort where Perła and Baltika beer sit comfortably next to Prosecco and modern British breakfasts and tandoori chicken wraps. We love it. Kraken Rum Bar ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-4:00. Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodsy Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218. Open 16:00-24:00. Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage. Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Chilled out and downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair. There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest. Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/raspberry hint M3. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its

vibrator beer taps. Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling. Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, www.paradox-cafe.pl. Open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00. Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Parking Bar (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 27. Open Sun-Thu 17:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-6:00. It looks raw

and ready, but then what did you expect from a place on the ground floor of a car park. Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on the weekend club nights. Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door. Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest. Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy

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NIGHTLIFE chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks. Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest. Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red

shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Shot Bars

Afera na Szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 509 777 797. Open 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 24hrs. Looking light and bright this place appeals to more than just hardened alcoholics – a point proved by spot-on food home cooked by the owner’s mum. It’s young, fun and lively in swagger. Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21. Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed. Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19. Open 24hrs. Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as

Warsaw’s Best Craft Beer Bar!

the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports. Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Warsaw’s original shot bar dispenses vodkas, beer and stuff you really shouldn’t eat in a mirrored environment with drooping plants. The stern, tuxedoed service makes you wonder why this battered-looking gloomhole remains so popular. Warszawska Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240. Open 24hrs. When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar, and it is a good spot to watch the latest rainbow fire.

A mecca for beer enthusiasts with over 40 top Polish and international breweries represented and rotated on up to 16 beer taps. These include: Pinta, Rodenbach, Tucher, St. Austell, Ale Browar, Haust, Jan Olbracht and many more. And we’re not just about beer but quality food! Order gourmet Thai and Nepalese dishes cooked by our Nepalese chef!

CHMIELARNIA MULTI-TAP

UL. TWARDA 42 (BASEMENT LEVEL) WWW.CHMIELARNIA.WAW.PL

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Bottled then packaged in Plan B (pl. Zbawiciela) is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Rain by India Curry ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.rain.pl. What was a standard Indian restaurant has been reinvented as both a slick ‘modern Indian’ eatery and… a bar! There’s Perła on tap, and the best time to sample it is their ‘Piątek, Pakora and Perła’ happy hour: zł. 8 for a beer and pakora from 16:30 to 18:30. But the real point is made by the cocktails. They’re concocted by Konrad, a gifted mixologist whose specialties include the house signature: Frozen Rain. You won’t stop at one. Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. The flagship bar of the Sheraton is familiar ground to most ex-pats. With a look that says urban/industrial, it’s one of the more unique hotel bars out there, a point underlined by a live music schedule that’s still considered one of the best there is. Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Mon-Thur 16:0024:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers, while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass. Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

Świetlica ul. Marszalkowska 17. Open 12:00-last guest. Described by one Insider as a ‘Bukowski bar’, this dark dive features dusty, yellowing comics and wobbly lampshades amid all the raw brickwork and battleship colors. Once your eyes accustom to the (lack of) light, you’ll note other details: random outbreaks of origami, a set of DJ decks lumped in a corner (find the music schedule tipp-ex’ed on the window), and a decent selection of Czech origin beers. Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www.syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Housed in a 70s monster this two floor bar maintains its element of retro chic while at the same time providing a genuinely unique drinking experience. Aimed at a more mature, affluent crowd than their sister bar (Warszawa PKP Powiśle), the standout factor is a whisky menu divided up into regions of BEST WAWA Scotland, Ireland and Japan. 2012 “New Bar” Winner Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. This is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

CLUBS

1500m2 (F4) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-till-dawn electro events. Basen ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, www.artbasen.pl. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00. Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list. DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

Element (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 22 692 4242, www. elementclub.pl. Open Thu-Sat 22:00-6:00. With door control negotiated, clubbers slip downstairs into a blue-lit labyrinth heaving with slick, polished finishes and a thumping sound system. Marketed at the higher end of the clubbing world, there’s no shortage of

temptresses gyrating around in a dense cloud of perfume. Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:00-4:00. Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost. The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room. Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a nefarious reputation as something of a dodgy den of illicit pharmaceuticals and libertine behavior. Looking grim and grotty, this after party legend gets going at about 4 a.m. when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the final touches to their zonked out stare. For the full tilt, teeth rattling electro experience it’s pretty hard to beat.

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NIGHTLIFE Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:00-6:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but BEST you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. WAWA 2012 “Rich & Pretty Club” Winner Sen Pszczoły (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, www.senpszczoly.pl. Open Tue-Wed 18:00-2:00; Thu-Sat 18:005:00; Sun 18:00-2:00. A dive club of legend. With the original turned to ashes (literally, it

burnt down earlier in the year), the owners could have been forgiven for calling it a day. They haven’t. Instead they’ve reopened in Koneser, and unleashed Warsaw’s most surreal interior in the process: amid the heavy industrial background expect bunk bed frames, a dentist’s chair and no shortage of neon painted weirdness. Concerts are a mixed bag, and range from didgeridoo performances to inter-war songs to full-on techno that rattles the ribcage. Sztuki & Sztuczki ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 468 00 00, www.sztukisztucki.pl. Open Mon-Tue 13:00-22:00; Wed-Thu 13:00-2:00; Fri-Sat

Outdoor Bars Cud nad Wisłą (E2) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie, tel. 533 649 561, www.cudnadwisla.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. What summer drinking should be about. Deckchairs and cushions abound in this riverside spot, and it excels at night when twinkly lights reflect off the inky black waters. The live music does its bit to ensure it’s never a quiet night. La Playa ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, www.laplaya.pl. Mix-up surf inspired cocktails, lager in plastic glasses, a volleyball net, lounge chairs and some spontaneous samba, and you get the most unexpected beach party you’d ever imagine. If you’re feeling particularly daring, go skinny dipping in the murky, muddy Wisła. Lolek ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel. 22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:00-03:00. A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire, inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged. Miasto Cypel ul. Zaruskiego 6, miastocypel.eu. Open Mon-Thur 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-6:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Located in a forest clearing near the banks of the Wisła, this creative community includes

a campsite and flea market. Visit late on a weekend to find the marquees and open-air stages jumping to diverse sounds enjoyed by a varied crowd. Greeting sunrise here can be an ethereal experience, though a tolerance to mosquitoes and other hungry critters is required. Na Lato ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094. The former HQ of the SLD political party now finds itself utilized as a bar. Their success though is largely due to the shaded park outside. Filled out with deckchairs, it’s come to resemble a giant, beery picnic. Plac Zabaw ul. Myśliwiecka 9 (Park Agrykola). Open 12:00-4:00. Owned by the same dudes behind Plan B, the name translates as ‘Playground’. With a low-key, open air set-up in the wooded bit under Trasa Łazienkowska, from an aesthetic point there’s little to write home about. Even so, with summer in song you’ll find it rocking into the wee, early hours. Temat Rzeka (G3) Under Poniatowskiego Bridge. Open Sun-Tue 11:00-1:00; Wed 11:00-2:00; Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-5:00. Making its debut this summer, Temat have emerged as Warsaw’s favorite summer home. Appearing as a pimped-up cargo container, this beach bar complex has a busy schedule that involves DJ performances and film nights. It can feel saturated, but that doesn’t stop anyone.

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13:00-4:00. Ducking into a basement, the look is pure Kraków cool: covert corners and vaulted brick ceilings. Already established as one the top spots for alternative live music, find a high voltage atmosphere and a drinks list that’s lauded and applauded: Baczewski vodka to Svyturys beer.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS Coyote (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.coyotebar.eu. Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and then a larger room with more intimate acts of friendship taking place behind the curtain. New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00. High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here…

JAZZ Bistro na Pięknej ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, www.jazzone.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00. A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts. Jazzarium (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 601 327 634. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last gues; Sat 18:00-last guest. Owned by Mariusz Adamiak, Jazzarium is certainly the most serious of Warsaw’s jazz venues, with a reportoire that reflects the proprietor’s standing in the music biz. What looks like a pretty ordinary cafe, transforms the moment there’s a concert. Nu ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989. Open 10:00-24:00. For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd.

Reviews: Designer Secret 71 / Plus:

* 1 update

SHOPPING

ACCESSORIES 73 / FASHION 72 / HOME DECOR 74 / SHOPPING MALLS 74

“ These are luxury brands at H&M prices”

Insider’s Pick

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

arsaw’s rebirth is complete. A city once regarded as dark, drab and dowdy has come to be recognized as one of the most thrilling cities in Europe. That’s something reflected in her architecture, attitude, restaurants and bars. It’s also mirrored by her growing taste in fashion. A city that used to dress itself in tracksuits and slip-ons is now awash with logos and labels. Looking good, all of a sudden, is essential.

With its studios, ateliers and boutiques, Mokotowska has come to be represent Warsaw’s sartorial heart, an elegant street with a heavy Parisian accent: high style and high prices define it. And yet, lurking under all the prohibitive price tags, bargains do exist. At least, they do in one place. Tucked in a courtyard, Designer Secret proffers a glittering roll call of designer names at rock bottom prices: in some cases, up to 85% off. In fact, it’s such a good deal you find yourself asking what the catch is. The answer is, there isn’t any. The brainchild of Londoner Max Doe, DS originated as an invite-only designer discount market offering cut-price clobber from last season’s collections. The events

were a success, and prompted Max and his wife to open a shop two years back. This year, they’ve taken the next logical step, moving from the Panorama mall to Warsaw’s couture heart. Divided on gender lines, the offer ranges from chic and simple to daring and provocative. There’s fancy footwear (Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Giuseppe Zanotti, etc.), accessories (Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Ann Demeuleester, Dsquared 2, and many more), bags (a Marni python skin bag, reduced from zł 6,400 to zł. 1,590), and above all, clothing. New deliveries arrive each month, with Max sifting through 250,000 items per month to handpick articles to add to the estimated 150 labels

already in stock. Among those, Stella McCartney is handed her Polish debut, while other rare finds like Commes Des Garcons make it a place of pilgrimage for Warsaw fashionistas. This is not some outlet store offering reject goods, the stock is high quality and often unique: crikey, there’s even a wedding dress from Carolina Herrera. Without fail though, the talking point returns to the concessions. A silk Westwood dress has been slashed from zł. 11,760 to zł. 1,490; at the lower end, a classic black tunic from Maison Martin Margiela has been cut from zł. 800 down to zł. 220. To quote Max, “these are luxury brands at H&M prices”. The proprietor though is keen to stress that DS is more than just a shop. Part of the reason for leaving Panorama can be traced to the desire to provide a more personal experience. And that’s exactly what you get here: shopping mall anonymity and snooping assistants are traded for something that’s intensely intimate. “We’re not just selling clothes,” says Max, “this is a lifestyle thing – we want to know the customer, to build a relationship with them”. It’s an aim that’s achieved through monthly events (for details / invites, like their Facebook), not to mention the Prosecco that gets poured for partners who wait for the other half while they browse the portfolio. These are nice touches, for sure, but the reason that Designer Secret isn’t much of a secret anymore is much more basic: it’s simply very good. (AW) Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00.

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SHOPPING FASHION

American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 665 625 718, facebook. com/AmericanEaglePoland. Open MonSat10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style. Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 609 888 363, www.bizuu. pl. A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season. Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 - bright colours, florals, platform heels and wedges.

Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. A cute courtyard location belies what’s in store at Designer Secret: a thoroughly amazing collection of discounted designer gear from previous collections. This includes labels from Paul Smith, Rick Owens, Vivienne Westwood and, approximately, 150 more of the world’s most eminent designers. Follow Me ul. Okrąg 1, tel. 669 295 567. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-19:30; Sat 11:00-15:00. A superb footwear store with Italian import brands such as Mauro Leone.

Frank A (E6) ul. Natolińska 3. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00. The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch. Hot Herring Lifestyle Concept Store Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 270 2945. A spacious loft-like interior is home to a selection of nice fashion, shoes and accessories from Europe, Japan and the US. What the brands have in common is attention-to-detail, craftsmanship and top fabrics. Whether it’s a pair of selvedge jeans or a super fine silk dress, this is the place for timeless style. Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Likus Concept Store (D3) Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www.loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Everything the businessman requires: suits, shirts, shoes and cigars. Impeccable tri-lingual service in a top location. In July you can enjoy a summer clearance with 70% off. Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom. Marks & Spencer (D4) DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer. com.pl. Open: Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. The popular British brand’s new Warsaw store sells menswear, womenswear and children’s clothing, as well as various beauty products, groceries, wines and spirits. This is its newest and largest store in Poland to date. Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Isabel Marant, Tod’s, Simonetta Ravizza, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain. Muji (A1) Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store. Pinko (D4) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 22 628 5048; Promenada shopping centre, www.pinko.it. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler, Tory Burch and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last

pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace. QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48 (courtyard), tel. 690 021 787, www.robertkupisz.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00. One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie. Reykjavik District (F4) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Sabotage (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 887 1056. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. Schumacher (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 621 9950. This boutique sells über-chic clothing from the Schumacher line in a pristine, minimalist setting and comfortable fitting and lounge area Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www.snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. Teresa Rosati (Sadyba) tel. 609 433-343, www.teresarosati.com.pl, email: teresarosati@op.pl. Elegant cocktail dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s best-known designers. Ready-to-wear and custom-made services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

ACCESSORIES Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances. Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite. Chiara Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814. You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals. Furla (E5) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 3896, www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The highly-coveted handbag label’s flagship store in Warsaw features all the latest styles from Milan.

Glamstore (C9) ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel. 22 403 2300. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com. Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula. Kate & Kate (D5) ul. Wspólna 50A/20, tel. 501 021 841, www.kateandkate.pl Open Mon-Fri 13:0019:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 This shop is so tucked away, you’d never find it without heads up from a friend. But once you do, be prepared to enter a world of brilliant accessories. Lewanowicz Cafe & Boutique Pl. Grzybowski 10, tel. 22 650 0590, www. lewanowicz.com. Lewanowicz’s original house collection of precious and semiprecious stones is supplemented by several other designer ranges, including the Ayalabr line from Israel. Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, www.lilou.pl. Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Louis Vuitton ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac Department Store), tel. 22 450 3000, www.louisvuitton.com. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00. At last, the famous LV monogrammed bags, wallets, suitcases and shoes have made their way to Poland. The two-storey boutique offers everything from the all-time-classics, to the newest designs with each of the items is displayed in its own personal space. Prices go all the way up to €19,000 for the most expensive python, ostrich or crocodile leather goods. Secret Life (of Things) ul. Polna 18/20, tel. 22 412 4811, www.secretlife.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. An ‘eco lifestyle concept

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SHOPPING store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes. Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3. This shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

HOME DECOR 3F Studio (B2) ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, www.3fstudio.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients. Apteka Sztuki (E6) Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland). Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), tel. 22 651 6884,www.coqlila.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 10:00-16:00.Home products with

a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware. ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. www. egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from uniquehandmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Galeria 2 Deco (D6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 621 2420, www.2deco.pl. A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices. Special orders and consulting also available. Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. Mood Boutique ul. Mokotowska 46, tel. 22 628 2213, www.mood-design.pl. Contemporary home design solutions for every inch of the house. Home Design cooperate with some of the leading players on the lifestyle scen, among them Poliform, Bosa, Redaelli, Etro Home, Gan and Antoni Lupi. This is the final word in modern luxury. Also, check the showroom on Duchnicka 3. MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm. Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche. Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339; ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. 22826 0008. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00. www.redonion.pl.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15. Open Mon-Thurs 9:0021:30; Fri 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers. Targówek (Praga) ul. Głębocka 15, www.chtargowek.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc… Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, www.wolapark.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

Reviews: Copernicus Science Centre Planetarium 75 / Plus:

CHILDREN

* 1 update

EDUCATION 75 / SHOPS 78

Insider’s Pick

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org. ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

Copernicus Science Centre Planetarium ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl/en/planetarium. Open Tues-Sun 9:30-21:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

f, like me, you spent your holidays on the tropical island of Great Britain you too might be asking some serious questions about the earth’s climate and what in jeepers name happened to it this summer…Back in Warsaw we were greeted with hot winds, a stifling temperature of 39°c and a storm of biblical proportions brewing! I’m a city girl, yet even I was longing for a rugged coastline and the seas spray. But my love for city life and all its amenities was rekindled during an afternoon at the Copernicus Science Centre Planetarium. Tip: Buy tickets in advance! After collecting our headphones for English translation (essential and FREE, just don’t forget ID or it’s a hefty zł. 300 deposit) we took to the roof for an inspection of the dome and view; sadly, rather an anticlimax seeing Warsaw through orange polka dots but worth the exercise! ‘Our Living Climate’ was my film of choice. Appropriate for my daughter whose spent summer nights stargazing from remote unlit English countryside and asking millions of questions about extreme weather, dinosaur extinction, wellingtons or flip-flops and why we can’t live on another planet. All shows (age three upwards) begin with a live interactive explanation about the sky above Warsaw; however, the constellations and planet’s would have been even more flabbergasting had our translation been as lengthy as the Polish version bellowed through the microphone. Long intervals on our headphones convinced my daughter she had the faulty set, hence awkward swapping! We chose a 2D movie, yet with multimedia technology, a hemispheric screen and reclining chairs we were still immersed in a virtual reality. For an hour we were orbited into outer space and back to earth watching the repercussions climate change has forced upon our earth over billions of years. Overall, a cosmic experience we won’t forget! What’s more, the affordable entrance fee (family zł. 49) and helpful PL/ENG website make this one of Warsaw’s highlights for all ages. (GBB)

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob. 502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl. This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English. They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dabrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from prenursery aged 2 ½ (30 months) to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 92 89, 697 970 244, 697 959 199, secretary@canadian-school. pl, www.canadian-school.pl. The Canadian School of Warsaw offers a bilingual environment based on the IB and Polish system of education for 6 to 16 year olds with

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CHILDREN an individual approach to each student. The Canadian School provides outstanding educational opportunities within a homely atmosphere and delivers the highest standards of learning, enabling students to fulfill their full potential.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

60 Warsaw Montessori School

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saint-exupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old.

The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse.com. The

The American School of Warsaw

Anniversary Gala Hilton Hotel 28.09.2013 19:00

A fun-filled evening of food, drinks, live entertainment, dancing, special guests, silent auction and various Visit www.aswarsaw.org to reserve tickets or to get more details on corporate sponsorship opportunities. Tickets may also be purchased in person at the ASW Act now to secure a premium corporate package for this highly anticipated event!

Celebrating 60 years of Excellence in Education

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting applications for all our locations and programs: Toddler: age 1,5-2,5 Casa: age 2,5 - 6 Elementary: age 6-9,9-12

Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl . Szwolezerów 4, Warszawa; Badowska 19, Warszawa; Szkolna 16, Izabelin.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com. HAPPY HOME Childcare ul. Okrężna 23, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 717 5513, www.happyhomechildcare.eu. Ideal childcare facility for children aged 16 months to 5 years. “Happy Home is Your Home” is their motto, aiming to combine a family atmosphere with education, promote the harmonious development of children through play and getting to know themselves and the world. Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. La Fontaine Polish-French Pre-School ul. Rolna 177, Mokotów, tel.22 843 4241 & ul. Pogonowskiego 19, Żoliborz, tel. 502 051 360, www.lafontaineprzedszkole.pl. This preschool has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching.

the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. Their program, which is designed for three to six year-olds, is devoted to the intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children. Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, www.argonaut.edu.pl. This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities. Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy.eu. An Englishspeaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. Tequesta ul. Przejazd 2, tel. 603 919 096/535 400 033, info@tequesta.pl, www.tequesta.pl. Polish and English language groups for children aged from six months to six years, as well as a wide range of extra-curricular activities.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul.Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-5 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), www.3languages.pl. Open 7:30-18:30. The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

SCHOOLS

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org. ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/or to visit our school contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre is an English-speaking play and learn group in Old Mokotów, dedicated to infants 16 months to 3 years of age. It offers a gentle introduction to nursery education. Contact: marta. cross@neostrada.pl, mob. 607 704 396.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from ul. Rotmistrzowska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl. Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by an Orff/Kodálybased music syllabus. Find them located in

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CHILDREN The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool School Unit ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 31 39, 697 979 100, 600 247 878, preschool@canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl. The Canadian School of Warsaw offers a bilingual environment based on the IB and Polish system of education for 3 to 5 year olds with an individual approach to each child aimed at enabling them to acquire the skills and competencies to ask questions and seek satisfying answers.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, 696 485 400,mid.high@

canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school. pl. The Canadian School of Warsaw offers a bilingual environment based on the IB and Polish system of education for 6 to 16 year olds with an individual approach to each student. The Canadian School provides outstanding educational opportunities within a homely atmosphere and delivers the highest standards of learning, enabling students to fulfill their full potential.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442 or 603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization. International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75, tel. 22 842 4448,

ies@ies-warsaw.pl. In operation since 2002 the International European School teaches the Polish National Curriculum in English language to both primary and mid-school level.

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods. Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extracurricular instruction). Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@ warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

SHOPS Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, www.bimbus.com.pl. Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou. The products are adorable. Endo Multiple locations, www.endo.pl. Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well. A good address for baby basics and all closet essentials.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Reviews: Łan Sztuk Kalimera 79

LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 79 / COMMUNITY 83 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 82 / MEDICAL 83 / POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS 83 / TRANSPORTATION 81

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels H15 Boutique Apartments (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com.

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Łan Sztuk Kalimera Stare Kawkowo 8 (Jonkowo), tel. 510 079 490

have a very special fondness for this place. This is where I fell in love last summer. This is where it all began. The magical charm of Stare Kawkowo is what took us from casual dating to the real thing. There really isn’t anything as glorious as the Polish countryside. Of course, the Cotswolds and Provence are impossible to match, but for a weekend jaunt, the untamed, endless green of Mazury and Warmia are an absolute dream. A friend recommended Łan Sztuk as a nice, romantic spot as a chance to relax and also as a Bridget Jones-style litmus test for my burgeoning relationship. I really had no clue what to expect as we shuttled down the winding roads in our rented car, the three or so hours from Warsaw speeding by with ease. We arrived to find a charming cottage, surrounded by fields and trees, a few minutes away from the woods and secluded lakes. It was just right. We met the patrons, who were delightful and spoke surprisingly good English, and led to our room. It was a quaint little room with an old-fashioned bed and vintage details. Authentic enough to be charming, but not dusty or otherwise icky. We took an evening stroll in the fields, did a bit of kissing in the moonlight and off to bed to make the most of the next few days. We spent those days exploring the environs: from the local lavender fields to wonderful little lakes. We got around mostly by bike and by car, for further trips out to the Narie lake, where we rented a rowboat and frolicked about in the middle of the lake. For fans of Gałkowo, Stare Kawkowo may come across as slightly less glamorous, but we were happy to flee the vanity fair in favor of some private time. Our stay was very affordable, costing somewhere around zł. 150 per day, plus no more than zł. 20 per person for 3 satisfying, home-cooked meals per day. There are only a handful of bedrooms, so there’s never a real crowd about. This place is great for the very crux of summer or the cooler months just before and after - even winter. Highly recommended for a way to recharge the batteries (and the romance) just 220 kilometers from Warsaw. (AMG)

InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com. Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com. The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888.

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LIFESTYLE www.airporthotel.pl.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw.

4-star hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000,

Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl. Mecure (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl. Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com. Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com.

3-star hotels

Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl. Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki, www.hiexpress.com. Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl. Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl.

THE BEST IS SOMETHING YOU DIDN’T KNOW EXISTED HAIRCOLOGY

The Ecological Hair Salon ul. Rozbrat 44A tel. 669 780 669 www.haircology.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

APARTMENTS

Central Apart ul. Łucka 2/4/6 m.45, tel. 22 357 0975, www.wawahotele.pl. Apartments for one to four people in locations across town. Prices from zł. 190. InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool,

room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana. A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

www.topnoclegwarszawa.pl.

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

P & O Apartments ul. Kasprowicza 91, tel. 22 636 8699, www.pandoapartments.com.pl.

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3. Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl.

Top One Apartments ul. Graniczna 4, tel. 608 205 769,

Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1,

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LIFESTYLE tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789. Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl. Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES AGS Warsaw

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077. Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients. CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com.

Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com. DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl. Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com. Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl. Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. With 120 relocation service centres and employs 3,150 international relocation services staff across Europe and EMEA, and over 600 alliances worldwide. Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com. Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

TAXIS

Bayer tel. 22 19697 City Taxi tel. 22 19459 Ele Taxi tel. 22 811 11 11 Glob Taxi tel. 22 19668 Grosik Taxi tel. 22 6464646 tel. 22 677 7777 Merc Sawa tel. 22 644 4444 Super Taxi tel. 22 19622 Volfra tel. 22 19625 Wawa tel. 22 19644

HEALTH & BEAUTY FITNESS

Holmes Place Premier ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), www.holmesplace.pl. Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. Their latest outpost in the Marriott also has a pool and has been updated accordingly

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

to fit the HP quality check. For prices enquire direct. RiverView Wellness Centre (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

SPAS & SALONS

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, www.haircology.pl. An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00. A staunch favorite of the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products.

tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

WARSAW

World Leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics

Malo Clinic (C4) MALOONZ CLINIC Warsaw is Central Rondo 1, tel. 22 335 7755, Europe's first clinic of the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental www.maloclinics.com/polska. Thisand world class Aesthetics, offering full dental care, above all advanced implant surgery. dental clinicdental incorporates five dental offices, Located in a modern office complex Rondo 1 at anRondo operating twocenter recovery roomsthe and a ONZ, room, in the city of Warsaw, Clinic can be easily accessed as center. it is located in only 10 state-of-the-art diagnostic minutes from Central Railway Station, 30 minutes from the F. Chopin International Airport, near bus, tram

stops and subway station (Świętokrzyska Station). Melitus Entry into a secured car park in the Rondo 1 building – ul.off Słowackiego Pańska street. 12, tel. 22 883 7438, mob. 603 060 621, biuro@melitus.pl, www.melitus. Services Available pl.MALO Specializing in dermatology, surgery, CLINIC Warsaw provides the best specialists and the latest diagnostic equipment (including computer phlebology, endocrinology, gynecology and tomography), in the field of: internal medicine. The clinic is equipped Conservative Dentistry Dental with the Surgery latest and most innovative medical Endodontics Implantology equipment and employs several renowned Orthodontics Aesthetic Prosthetics clinicians.

MALO CLINIC Office complex Rondo 1 (+48) 22 335 77 55 Warsaw 1st floor in Building A warsaw@maloclinics.com Rondo ONZ 1 www.maloclinics.com/polska | www.maloclinics.com

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 403 7872, www.frog.org.pl. Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. Klub Dialogu Tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl. Individual and group courses held either onsite or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

COMMUNITY Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users:

Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, 1st floor; tel/ fax: 22 827 6000; e-mail: amnesty@amnesty. org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 0000 0000 0959 0181. Art Friends’ Society For info, contact Justyna Napiórkowska: e-mail: justyna@napiorkowska.pl, mob. 603 378 567. Blanc Lys (Wola) ul. Księcia Janusza 23, tel. 508 162 810, www.blanc-lys.com. The first self-service laundromat in Warsaw, open daily 08:0020:00. Free wi-fi.

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

84 84

Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

Wa r sINSIDER a w I n s|i SEPTEMBER d e r : 0 1 – 32013 1 M a r ch 2 0 1 1 WARSAW

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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A UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY TO LIVE INSIDE A NATURE RESERVE. Do you dream of complete silence, with only the wind whistling in the trees? Or a lazy Sunday spent under the stars? This is your unique chance to own such a place. Set inside the Kampinowski National Park, but only 19km from the center of Warsaw, this could be your great escape. For further info: tel. 607 399 085, per@hansen.pl, www.dom-w-kampinosie.com

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

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Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW?

Kingston, surrounded by foreigners, it was strange. I used to get stared at all the time. It was never a problem, more out of curiosity, but I felt an outsider. My life changed when I moved to the Old Town. Looking around it, I sometimes think ‘when will all the tourists just leave’. By comparision living near Marki was the middle of nowhere, so I’ve gone from one extreme to the other. But I love living here: the architecture, that I can walk anywhere… How would you describe your design style… Scandinavian meets Japanese minimalism. But it’s also nice to throw in something old as a statement piece. I’ve started visiting flea markets, finding beauty in something old. I recently picked up a palette and turned it into a table. Now in the UK that’d be quite normal; it’s trendy to recyle, or ‘upcycle’. It’s different here – Poles tend to want new, new, new. Any discoveries lately? I picked up some water valves recently. The seller tried to pass them off as pastry cutters, making all the hand actions to suggest so! I haven’t done anything with them yet, but I will. I like working with beaten down things, giving them some TLC. It’s nice to get hands-on sometimes rather than working with a mouse all the time.

International citizen Juan Murphy is a conceptual designer who specializes in creating interiors and visualizations. The Insider tracks him down…

Juan Murphy, that’s quite a name… I was born in Ecuador, adopted by British parents, brought up in Belgium and then studied in England. My then girlfriend was Polish; living here wasn’t planned, but it happened, and now it’s coming up to four years here. I’m definitely more European than South American; I’ve forgotten how to speak Spanish and my accent is British. While I know a few Columbians and Peruvians, I probably know many more people who’ve visited Ecuador than come from there. What were the early days like here? I lived near Marki at first. Having come from

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2013

Is that a common problem in Warsaw? People come to me with a magazine and say I want this and I just think, “do you want me to actually design something for you or to just copy something for you”. But it’s interesting to see how far you can push their level of trust. A dream client is someone open-minded and willing to take a chance. It becomes very difficult when someone comes to you with such a clear brief. It doesn’t give you much space to actually design. Equally, I respect where a fussy client is coming from, after all it’s a big investment. And I know if I was my own client I would kill myself. But there is a point when you say enough is enough. So working in Poland isn’t always a bed of roses… Not every project runs smoothly, clients sometimes have set ways and are difficult to persuade otherwise, but this offers different challenges. Poland has a lot of great talent with designers and ideas backed up by a sound manufacturing process. I believe the future here is bright. For more about Juan and his work visit his website at: www.juanmurphy.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

COOL BY DESIGN

Any jobs that stand-out, and while we’re there, any fails? I did a friend’s flat – he could have easily have gone to someone with more experience, so there was a lot of trust involved. That whole journey was very satisfying, watching the project form. But in general, with anything you create on the computer, there’s an immense pleasure when you see it come to life, when you touch the end product. Are there any embarrassments? I don’t like it when people come to you with a design and try and push you into it. You don’t want your name on that.