Warsaw Insider November 2013 # 207

Pub Crawls & Street Food

Cold War Secrets

page 18

Warsaw

page 22

Stand-Up Polska page 24

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NOVEMBER 2013

Phwoar-Saw

The Online InsIder www.warsawinsider.pl

WarsaW InsIder | NOVEMBER 2013

The rainbow is back and you can read more about it on p. 7. But what is Zbawiciela without its bars? Take yourself off on the Insider’s Warsaw pub crawl on p. 18. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Officially recognized as Poland’s premier Englishlanguage magazine, the Insider is delighted to announce the launch of its new look website. Designed to reflect the nature of a dynamic and energizing capital, the Online Insider sails you through one of Europe’s most exciting cities. In a fast evolving city, the Online Insider opens the door to Warsaw’s secrets, stories and latest scoops. Don’t let Warsaw leave you behind: • Full restaurant, nightlife, café and shopping listings • In-depth picks, past and present • Features

on the cover

• Calendar • City Search • Blog • Newsletter blasts

PhOTOgRAPh By kEvIn dEMARIA

here’s a few interests I hold dear to my heart, but I’ve got say, cars ain’t one of them. As such, the global mania for Top Gear has passed me blissfully by. What I do know about the show, however, is that enthusiasm for it has spread like a pandemic. I also know that the presenters haven’t always been delicate in their diplomatic relations: Romania, for instance, was dismissed by Jeremy Clarkson as “a Borat country of gypsies and Russian playboys.” So when I heard this gang of gibbons were landing in Poland, I did fear the worst. Sure, I’ve grown used to seeing Warsaw for what it is, a dynamic city of creativity, energy and self-belief, but I’m not some passing weekend whirlwind. Seen at comet speed, the city’s good side isn’t always apparent. In a nutshell, I thought this smug collective of blustering buffoons would give Warsaw a whacking. As it is, I couldn’t have been further from the truth. Returning to England, Clarkson tweeted to some 2.5 million followers: “When the Poles all move to England, let’s move to Warsaw – it’s fantastic.” That someone so notoriously cavalier should see Warsaw as sexy is a warm buzz indeed. Forget Warsaw, welcome to Phwoar-saw. But it’s not Clarkson’s tweet that left me staggered, more the realization as to just how spectacular Poland’s transition has been. It’s easy to forget that 25 years ago this was a nation in a pretty grave position – piggy-in-the-middle as West and East faced off in an arms race that, for an uncomfortably long time, looked like it’d only conclude with the world going BOOM. This issue, we’ve got a startling reminder of that as our man Ed Wight uncovers a nuclear bunker that’s been frozen in time. On a lighter note, it’s not just the chances of surviving a missile strike that have improved. So too has the local comedy scene, something evidenced by the emergence of the Stand-Up Polska group - we catch up with them this issue. Finally, we’ve got another reason to feel rather pleased. The Insider’s annual sober October has passed without blips, and we’re off to celebrate: that’s why we’ve got a couple of our favorite pub crawls sneaked into the issue. As always, enjoy the mag and see you next time – as for my picture above, sorry, it all becomes clear on p. 65. Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

MONCLER RALPH LAUREN SALVATORE FERRAGAMO TOD’S TORY BURCH

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com

what’s inside

NOVEMBER 2013

LIStIngS

Culture

07 opener Julita Wójcik 08 Calendar Music, art and events around town 10 Museums Listings

neighborhoods

29 A Day in the Life Basico

Restaurants

33 Insider’s Pick The harvest

Cafes & Wine Bars

61 Insider’s Pick Niezłe Ziółko

nightlife

18 Infront

FeAtUReS

13 news in Brief 18 two for the Road The Fall: Warsaw falls for a cuddly bear, Two directions to pub crawl. Plus the Top Gear fall for Warsaw and Spider-Man street food staples along the way falls out with the cops 22 Poland’s nuclear Secret 16 City news The suburban house with a murky past Plac Unii up and running while Adam gessler runs out of luck. Plus more city 26 the Heart of Laughter happenings Sitting down with the stand-up kings of Warsaw 32 Warsaw Foodie Latest from the blog frontline 88 Why Warsaw? Paul Cowen of Pure Sky Club Editor-in-chief Art Director Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com agnieszka Kuczyńska akuczynska@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: gill Boelman-Burrows Iza depczyk Jo harper Karolina Kalinowska Michał Miszkurka Paula rewald Ed Wight

65 Insider’s Pick Przychodnia

Shopping

71 Insider’s Pick Velt

Children

75 Insider’s Pick gym generation

Lifestyle

79 Insider’s Pick reszel Castle 84 Street Index 85 Classifieds 86 Warsaw Map

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VaLKea MedIa s.a., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2013 Warsaw Insider.

WarsaW InsIder | NOVEMBER 2013

Interview: Julita Wójcik 7

culture

for more events visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

EvEnts 8 / musEums 10

Interview: Julita Wójcik

I didn’t believe people could behave like that. Now, I find it almost symbolic that even after it was first destroyed people have tried to destroy it further. For all that, I knew the day would come when it was reconstructed. WI: Can’t you just fireproof it!? JW: Well, the rainbow isn’t made from flammable material – you can’t just set fire to it with a lighter. Check the burn marks, you don’t need to be a fireman to be able to see that these fires were created by people who came prepared to destroy it.

She’s a Rainbow

Tri-city artist Julita Wójcik is a familiar name in the Polish art world, though few of her works have created such a stir as her rainbow installation on Warsaw’s pl. Zbawiciela. Meant to symbolize ‘tolerance, diversity and openness’, it’s been targeted by arsonists four times. The Insider talks to Wójcik on the eve of the rainbow’s resurrection.

PhoToGrAPh By kevIN deMArIA

WI: The rainbow was meant to demonstrate Poland was a tolerant country – the fires, the scandals, surely these show you’ve failed? JW: The most important thing is the progress. The rainbow isn’t just about LGBT issues, but connected to tolerance in general. We have to stand up to nationalism and extremism. WI: Politician Stanislaw Pieta has called the rainbow ‘a provocation’ and ‘a disgusting gesture’. Have you ever met your detractors? JW: I’ve had no dialogue with these people. None of these politicians have ever asked

to meet me. What they come out with is political rhetoric to make their own name and push their own cause. The rainbow is used by them to promote their own agenda. WI: How did you react when you heard it had first been attacked? JW: The first fire was at about 3 a.m., and I woke up at 8 a.m. to find missed messages from the Mickiewicz Institute who own the installation. I could guess something had happened to it, but it was my postman who told me when he knocked on my door a few minutes later. I just felt really surprised. Why burn a rainbow? I was obviously aware that it had caused controversy, but

WI: What do you think of the arsonists? JW: I want to hear their opinions, to find their reasons. We need to find a solution. I want to have a dialogue but sometimes I think this dialogue is only possible in my head – these people attack it in the middle of the night, or hide behind computers and write bad things online. But I read their opinions, I want to understand them. WI: The cost of rebuilding the rainbow is reportedly zł. 64,000. Should art be publicly funded? JW: This figure has caused problems because Polish people aren’t used to knowing where public money is going. The figure, also, doesn’t just include the cost of the new rainbow, but all the work and people connected with it. The issue of public funding has become almost a private battle. I feel I have to fight for my right to be part of this society. All my artistic education was in Poland, and yet now people try to make me feel like a thief for making art my living. WI: What do you want to be remembered for? JW: For my smile and for being open to people. I wanted to involve people with the rainbow, to make it open and accessible to the public. A lot of people hate artists, they think they don’t need them. But I want to show people that art is like poetry; that art is open to them, as well.

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CuLTuRE

COnCERt nickelback 18:00, Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6a With 50 million albums sold worldwide, Nickelback stand out as one of the most successful Canadian rock acts of all time. holders of five Grammy Awards, and recognized by Billboard magazine as ‘the group of the decade’, expect a sellout show and plenty of their greatest hits. Tickets from zł. 161, available from livenation.pl

COnCERt Tegan and Sara 20:00, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 This Canadian indie/rock duo found their seventh studio album, Heartthrob, shortlisted for the 2013 Polaris Music Prize over

summer. They’ll be performing songs from that, as well as several hits from their back catalogue inside the atmospheric confines of Palladium. Tickets from zł. 105. For further info see: www.palladium.art.pl

COnCERt Aleksandrow Choir 19:00, PKin, Sala Kongresowa, pl. defilad 1 This performance promises to bring to life the military songs of the Soviet era with all the expected pomp and ceremony inside the suitably bombastic background of the Palace of Culture. Tickets from zł. 100. For further info see: kongresowa.pl

COnCERt Amanda Palmer & The Theft Orchestra

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20:00, Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99 Also known as one half of The Dresden Dolls and Evelyn, Evelyn, Amanda Palmer came out with her first solo album in four years with the 2012 release of Theater is Evil. her new material is primarily inspired by the sounds of the 80s and Britpop. Tickets from zł. 79. For further info see: www.palladium.art.pl

COnCERt Hurts 19:00, Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6a Comprising of singer Theo hutchcraft and synthesist Adam Anderson this Manchester duo originally met while their mates were having a punch-up. Too wrecked to join in, the pair got talking and the rest is history – three million records down the line, they’re known for hits like Wonderful Life not to mention collaborations with pop pixie kylie Minogue. Tickets from zł. 105. For further info see: www. torwar.cos.pl

COnCERt

November 4-5 & 25-27 Live at Pardon To Tu Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, www.pardontotu.pl r ecognized as Warsaw’s premier space for alternative sounds, Pardon To Tu live up to their reputation this November with a series of performances to mark in the diary. First up, Atomic perform on November 4 and 5, with the free jazz Scandinavians playing in Poland for the first time. They’ll be accompanied by a host of guests, among them the Insider’s favorite sax player ray dickaty. Tickets are priced zł. 30 (or zł. 50 for a two day pass). Then, wrapping up the month, check the three nights of improvised music starting November 25. Acts include Inner ear, ken vandermark & resonance ensemble and dave rempis. Tickets are zł. 25 per evening, or zł. 60 for a 3-day pass.

WarSaW InSIder | nOvEmBER 2013

Randy Crawford 20:00, PKin, Sala Kongresowa, pl. defilad 1 having sung alongside Quincy Jones, rick Springfield and Al Jarreau, randy Crawford has one of the most distinctive voices around, and has scored several Top 5 hits in the Uk alone. While State-side success has largely eluded her, this jazz and r&B vocalist continues to be one of the hottest names in europe. Tickets from zł. 90. For further info see: kongresowa.pl

COnCERt nouvelle vague 20:00, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 This supremely talented French collective should need little introduction for their bossa nova-style interpretations of 80s classics. Their live performances

are recognized as absolutely spine tingling. Tickets from zł. 125. For further info see: www.palladium.art.pl

COnCERt Crystal Fighters 20:00, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Back in Poland following the success of their May appearance, Crystal Fighters do the impossible by mixing electronic sounds with traditional basque folk. The unlikely marriage has scored them admirers far and wide, with their stage performances known to have an ‘intense, almost punk vibe.’ expect material from their latest album: Cave Rave. Tickets from zł. 79. For further info see: stodola.pl

COnCERt Placebo 18:00, Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6a dark but glam, Placebo guarantee fans a high energy performance that will leave audiences breathless. recipients of MTv’s 2009 awards as Best Alternative Act, you can anticipate plenty of material from their latest studio outing: Battle for the Sun. Tickets from zł. 154. For further info see: www.torwar.cos.pl

COnCERt Tricky 19:00, Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 A pioneer of trip hop and ‘the Bristol sound’, Tricky’s debut album Maxinquaye is commonly regarded as one of the defining albums of the 90s. Since then his output has included such seminal works such as Knowle West Boy and False Idols. An urban poet and a West Country saint, this man is not to be missed! Tickets from zł. 110. For further info see: artbasen.pl

COnCERt Electric Light Orchestra 19:00, PKin, Sala Kongresowa, pl. defilad 1

PhoToGrAPhS CoUrTeSy oF orGANIzerS or ArTISTS

EvEnTS

Pairing elements of classic with rock, ELO remain known as one of the most original acts of the 70s and 80s. They’ll be performing some of their greatest hits, among them Xanadu and Evil Woman. Woop! Tickets from zł. 80. For further info see: kongresowa.pl

CONCERT White Lies 19:00, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 This Ealing-based five piece have been compared to Joy Division and Editors, and have gained numerous plaudits since their breakthrough year of 2009. They’ll be promoting their latest album Big TV. Tickets from zł. 106. For further info see: stodola.pl

CONCERT Stacey Kent

20:00, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Renowned jazz vocalist Stacey Kent has been recognized by way of Grammy nominations not to mention numerous awards that range from Album of the Year at the 2006 BBC Jazz Awards to the French National Order of Arts and Letters. Tickets from zł. 130. For further info see: www.palladium. art.pl

CONCERT Candy Dulfer 19:00, PKiN, Sala Kongresowa, pl. Defilad 1 This glamorous Dutch saxophonist received a Grammy nomination for her 1990 debut album Saxuality, and has since gone on to perform with Pink Floyd, Prince, Beyonce and Aretha Franklin. Her latest global tour sees her accompanied by Dutch

DJ Kikke. Tickets from zł. 90. For further info see: kongresowa.pl

Shakey has scored 33 Top 40 hits in the UK alone. For further info see: www.torwar.cos.pl

CONCERT

Matt Dusk 20:00, PKiN, Sala Kongresowa, pl. Defilad 1 There’s a lot of hype to live up to: heralded by some as, ‘the successor of Frank Sinatra’, this jazz vocalist will be showcasing material from his latest album: My Funny Valentine: A Chet Baker Songbook. Tickets from zł. 100. For further info see: kongresowa.pl

Al Di Meola 19:00, PKiN, Sala Kongresowa, pl. Defilad 1 One of Poland’s favorite jazz masters has played Warsaw numerous times, and he returns once again this time to air his interpretations of classic Beatles tracks. Tickets from zł. 139. For further info see: kongresowa.pl

Jake Bugg 20:00, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Cited by Noel Gallagher as ‘the future of music’. His sound was compared by that bloke from Oasis as ‘Dylan meets the Arctic Monkeys’. Tickets from zł. 79. For further info see: www.palladium. art.pl

CONCERT Shakin’ Stevens 19:00, Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A There is absolutely no need to introduce this 80s heartthrob – famed for hits like Green Door and This Ole’ House, the prolific

CONCERT

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CuLTuRE Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzuem-motorzyacji.com. pl. What looks like a cemetery of rust and a tangle of exhaust pipes unravels into Warsaw’s most underrated museum. Find vehicles of every description: Lech Wałesa’s volvo (with 7cm bullet-proof windows), Gomułka’s zIS limo, German wartime armor and a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark – the type favored by elvis and Marilyn. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special. Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100,

www.kopernik.org.pl. Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. nov 15: around Jazz. A monthly jazz concert held in the planetarium with a ‘cosmic theme’. CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl. Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (edward dwurnik, Jenny holzer, Annie Leibovitz, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing until nov 15: BrITISH BrITISH POLISH POLISH: art from europe’s edges in the Long ’90s and Today. Works from 64 British and Polish artists, including Tracy emin’s bed, damien hirst’s sheep, Sam Taylor-Wood, zbigniew

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November 4-11 Five Flavours Festival Kino Luna (ul. Marszałkowska 28), Kino Muranów (ul. andersa 5), Południk Zero (ul. Wilcza 25), www. piecsmakow.pl

ive Flavours is the only Asian film festival in Poland, and the seventh installment of this annual event will see the latest productions from ‘New Asian Cinema’, a retrospective of the work of Tetsuya Nakashima, films from the Taiwanese New Wave, not to mention a special focus on hong kong – aside from featuring two sets of shorts and films from new directors, viewers will also get the chance to watch the films of Johnnie To, Ann hui and Pang ho-cheung. hot on the heels of halloween, there’ll also be a special night set aside for Asian horrors and thrillers!

WarSaW InSIder | nOvEmBER 2013

Libera, Joanna rajkowska and lots of miscellaneous pseudo pornographic shockers. Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl. The history Meeting house wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion. Ongoing until nov 17: I Will Be Photographing it in Color. The Beginning of the 20th Century in Stanisław Wilhelm Lilpop’s Three-dimensional Photographs. An exhibition of 180 photographs shot between 1908 and 1930, some of them using 3d techniques. Ongoing until dec 31: Gerald Howson – a Very Polish affair. Sixty photographs taken by howson in 1959 during his three week trip around Warsaw, kraków, Nowa huta and Lublin. The negatives were smuggled out of Poland in howson’s trouser leg, and remained unpublished for 50 years! Ongoing until dec 31: Warsaw from above. Photos of Warsaw circa 1940-45 taken by Luftwaffe pilots. Jewish Historical institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, www.jhi.pl. officially opened in1947 the Jewish historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains art work, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. Ongoing till nov 30: Polish art & the Holocaust. Classic works from the likes of kantor and Szapocznikow are juxtaposed against the works of latter day artists such as Libera, Bałka and Sasnal. Historical Museum of Warsaw rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl. The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of

a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw. Ongoing until dec 8: Warsaw Under Construction – Profession: architect. Preludes of the Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. anielewicza 6. Slated to open in full in the first half of 2014, this hugely impressive museum is already luring streams of onlookers eager to preview the temporary exhibits housed in the opening halls. Ongoing: Biographies of Things. A temporary display of items donated to the museum, among them toys, artwork, photos, religious items and everyday articles like travel trunks and clothing. The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum. recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113a, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl. Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Łazienki Królewskie ul. agrykoli 1, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of king Stanisław August this museum includes paintings and

PhoToGrAPhS CoUrTeSy oF orGANIzerS or ArTISTS

MuSEuMS & GALLERiES

furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history as well as temporary exhibitions of more modern work. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star kazimierz deyna. Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum. pl. The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, katarzyna kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing until January 6: In the Heart of the Country. The first comprehensive presentation of the museum’s international collection of art. Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa. pl. The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. on show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘enigma’ machine. national Museum al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl. Famed for its collection of dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing till February 2, 2014: Guercino. The Triumph of Baroque. A showcase of one of the most extraordinary Italian

baroque painters. The neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org. A complete departure from the stuff museums in Poland are famed for, this long awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s. Palmiry national Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl. An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Pawiak ul. dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl. With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by dali and Warhol. Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, www.muzkol. pl. Inside the museum contains an unimaginative formula of

train models (including one charmingly outdated model displaying a crash!), uniforms and paintings depicting Polish rail travel through the passage of time. outside it’s a different story – find an amazing collection of locomotives, including armored vehicles and Comrade Bierut’s luxury saloon car. Warsaw uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl. Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of ruins’, a five minute 3d film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk.

ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, katarzyna kozyra and zbigniew Libera. Ongoing until nov 30: Christian Hutzinger’s W/W. Installation combining painting and architecture, exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Ongoing till nov 10: In God We Trust. A showcase of the wealth of beliefs and religious practices in the US. Ongoing until dec 15: Houses as Silver Tents. Works by contemporary artists penetrate the stereotypes connected with the romany people.

Zachęta national Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www. zacheta.art.pl. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne,

Need To kNoW Museum hours (and prices) change way too frequently for our liking, so check indiviudal websites for the latest story. Note that many of these addresses close one day per week (usually Monday or Tuesday), and that an equal amount hold ‘visitor’ days once a week when admission prices are waived.

media Patronage November 9, 16, 23, 30 Mała Terpsychora Galeria apteka Sztuki, 3/5 al. Wyzwolenia, www. terpsychora.edu.pl Classes for children and ‘youths’ aimed at developing imagination, creative perception of the world and sensitivity to beauty. This is done through the dance and art, with a focus on skills such as movement coordination, observation, rhythm and musicality. Classes are held in Polish and hosted by professional dancers. Cost is zł. 30 per class.

November 26 onwards Dr. Dzitalik’s Clinic Museum of Caricature and Cartoon art, ul. Kozia 11, muzeumkarykatury.pl Themed around doctors and nurses, this exhibition takes a humorous look at a serious subject, and will also be held in conjunction with an exhibition concerning the rise of international social media.

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Bear thrills

photograph Maciej Landsberg

Warsaw’s rising stock as a center of creativity took another bold little jump at the end of september, thanks largely to the cuddly project devised by iza rutkowska of fundacja formy i Kształtów. those passing rondo de gaulle’a on september 21st were left bewildered by the sight of an inflatable bear slumped under the palm tree in a state of happy slumber; over the next week, the bear, a.k.a the cuddly, appeared in locations over town, among them the beach under poniatowski bridge (pictured). his fleeting cruise around the capital captured the public’s imagination, with people young and old skiving off work to track him to his latest location. “Most monuments in Warsaw are invisible to passers-by,” explained rutkowska, “made of stone they blend into the surrounding spaces and become a negligible part of everyday reality. We wanted to create a living sculpture, something to mobilize people to dialogue and integration.” to meet this end she chose “everyone’s friend from childhood – a teddy bear.” temporarily retired for winter (“like a real bear,” rutkowska adds mischievously), the cuddly received global coverage, with papers from afar afield as south america publishing stories on the blighter. “in toruń, some people want to create an animation depicting him as a superhero saving local culture,” says the artist, “i never imagined he’d spark such good energy.” but, with the cuddly in hibernation till his next tour, attention has turned to the foundation’s next venture: fishing. based on a project originally staged in Warsaw last year, rutkowska & co. will combine elements of sculpture, design and performance – all inspired by fishing – and present them to the brazilian public at burle Marx park in sao paulo. (aW)

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infront

briefing ED WIGHT’S news bites the number of the bleAt

Crime

superhero to superzero

a Warsaw prankster is in hot water after cops announced he faced a zł. 1,500 fine for wasting police time after one of his latest stunts failed to tickle their funny bone. serial joker sa Wardęga has scored viral video hits posing as spider-Man running around the capital, and as a superhero / public breast inspector called boobs Man. however, it’s one of his latest larks, in which he swigs beer in public and then leads pursuing police on benny hill chases, that has riled local feds. Wardęga claims, though, that several policemen have offered their support, saying he’s exposed embarrassing flaws in public policing.

god-fearing poles lashed out at budget food chain Lidl after the no-frills supermarket ran a series of adverts for goats cheese which ‘promoted the devil.’ the zł. 6.66 french cheese sparked panic among church-goers with professional exorcist father eugene Wiraska saying: “i can clearly see the sign of satan – three sixes and the head of a goat. in a world of struggle between the forces of light and darkness, here we can see darkness prevails.” a spokesman for the food chain said: “the prices and products offered by Lidl have no connection with symbols of satan. Lidl also offers the attractive price of zł. 7.77 for dried salami with walnuts and snails, and snails stuffed with herbs and garlic.”

television

motoring

polish tV is set to hit new heights of depravity after it was announced production had started on the creation of Warsaw Shore: a spinoff of the controversial MtV series Jersey Shore. Like the american original, the polish version of the reality show casts eight strangers together and follows them around as they engage in heinous acts and witless adventure. expect new moral lows and abject dickery when the first episode finally airs at an as yet undisclosed time. Watch this space…

Warsaw made history by staging the largest Top Gear Live event in the history of the show. over 58,000 fans turned up, smashing all previous records. in a night to remember, the Top Gear lads enjoyed what they claim to be their best ever after-party in the upmarket confines of the pure sky club. on returning to england, jeremy clarkson was prompted to tweet: “people of england. When everyone from poland is here, let’s all move to Warsaw – it’s fantastic.”

Warsaw snore

top gear Conquer

WarsaW InsIder | NOVEMBER 2013

trAgic mushrooms a housewife had 100 jars of pickled mushrooms confiscated by bailiffs after her husband failed to pay a zł. 300 fine. the 45-year-old woman from Woliń is now suing the bailiffs saying they acted illegally. “the mushrooms are mine, not his, and as such no one has a right to them other than me,” she told local media. “this is a tragedy,” she added.

cLocKWise froM top; shutterstocK; Michał ozdoba; press MateriaL

hunger strike a hungry burglar who struck in the dead of night is facing 10 years in jail after he was caught red-handed as he walked down a Wrocław street with a box of cup-a-soups. a police spokesman said the 20-year-old confessed straight away to stealing the goods from a local shop, but officers hadn’t believed him. “it was only when they looked inside the box that they realized he was telling the truth,” he said.

infront

in the city

Rink them Bells

Plac Unii Born

the mixed use plac unii project opened its doors on october 12th, with the grand launch drawing thousands of bargain hunters attracted by the likes of poland’s first independent armani jeans store. the center, the biggest mall to open in Warsaw for six years, has already come under fire though: local residents have been left seething by the spike in congestion and illegally parked vehicles and have promised to take ‘action’.

Warsaw’s traditional Christmas Market will have a new home this year after it was announced the main square will, instead, host an ice rink this winter. Launching on November 25, and running till March, the rink will earn the city zł. 23,000 and organizers have made reassurances that it will not damage the renovated Rynek. The market, meanwhile, looks set to be switched to the less romantic environs of the train station.

Fears that the landmark National Stadium could be renamed the Biedronka Arena (Ladybug Arena) have abated after a number of sponsors submitted bids for potential cooperation. Analysts predict naming rights to the stadium will bring in a minimum of zł.10 million per year, with the winner of the tender due to be announced next spring. However, Jeronimo Martins Poland, owners of the Biedronka chain, have already counted themselves out of the running, allaying worries that Polish football would be turned into an even bigger farce than it currently is.

rogue trader

justice caught up with restaurateur adam gessler in october after his Żoliborz residence was auctioned off by bailiffs for zł. 3.85 million. best known for creating u Kucharzy restaurant and the cult przekąski zakąski shot bar, the notorious debtor owes the city zł. 32 million in unpaid bills, though up till now has repeatedly skipped payments by using legal loopholes and clever ruses. issuing a war cry the Mayor of the central district, Wojciech bartelski, warned gessler this was only the beginning: “you’ll feel us breathing down your neck until you pay every groszik you owe to the people of Warsaw!” in the meantime, bartelski also appealed to Varsovians to boycott gessler’s business interests.

WarsaW InsIder | NOVEMBER 2013

aLL iMages shutterstocK except top Left by KeVin deMaria

Field of Dreams

Pierwsze Pierwszeoznaki oznakipoprawy poprawysytuacji sytuacji na na polskim polskim rynku pracy pracy Poles fear rynku for their jobs Tradycyjnie Tradycyjnie bardziej bardziej ożywiony ożywiony sezon sezon letni ma letni sięma ku się końcowi, ku końcowi, przyniósł przyniósł WartoWarto zauważyć, zauważyć, że przyżedużym przy dużym poziomie poziomie rotacjirotacji zanotowanej zanotowanej w ostatnim w ostatnim polled are certain they can find a jobposzukiwania comparable tonowego their current Despite announcements saying that thenastrojów economic outlook improving, jednakjednak spodziewane spodziewane przejawy przejawy poprawy poprawy nastrojów na rynku na rynku pracyis–pracy jak – jak kwartale, kwartale, skłonność skłonność pracowników pracowników donew poszukiwania do nowego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia one within six stabilna months, such a need arises,zmianom. 72 percent believe they Poles aren't getting more optimistic. According to Badawczego the latest survey by jest bardzo pokazują pokazują wyniki wyniki sondażu sondażu Monitor Monitor RynkuRynku Pracy Instytutu Pracy Instytutu Badawczego jest bardzo stabilna i niemal iifniemal nie ulega nie ulega zmianom. Odsetek Odsetek Polaków Polaków could find ainnego job, but not necessarily as good asod their present within Randstad research institute, theryzyko level of job security among working Randstad Randstad – rzadziej – rzadziej odczuwamy odczuwamy ryzyko utraty utraty pracy oraz pracyczęściej oraz częściej poszukujących poszukujących innego pracodawcy, pracodawcy, niezależnie niezależnie wieku od wieku i płcione, badanych, i płci badanych, that time. These results are good compared to the European average. Poles is the lowest innowego three years. The Nie highulega level job insecurity możliwość możliwość znalezienia znalezienia nowego zatrudnienia. zatrudnienia. Nie of ulega jednak jednak zmianie zmianie utrzymuje utrzymuje się na się poziomie na poziomie bliskim bliskim średniej średniej krajów krajów europejskich europejskich has been,średnia however, 10-percentage-point drop from the highest makes Polandnajmłodszych Europe’s no. 1i nation in terms of readiness trudnatrudna sytuacja sytuacja najmłodszych i najstarszych najstarszych pracowników. pracowników. Grupyto Grupy techange te (13%There Polska, (13% Polska, 12% 12% średnia dlaaEuropy). dla Europy). reading recorded in the past three years,” Kajetan Słonina added. jobs. Meanwhile, employer’s expectations towards job applicants w zmaganiach w zmaganiach na rynku na rynku pracy często pracy często podejmują podejmują się prac sięponiżej prac poniżej have Poles' optimism about finding a new job is significantly lower among increased, a trendograniczając which is expected to continue in the rozwoju future.rozwoju One out posiadanych posiadanych kwalifikacji, kwalifikacji, ograniczając tym samym tym samym możliwości możliwości Doświadczenie Doświadczenie decyduje decyduje na rynku na rynku pracy.pracy. Czy wiek Czy wiek również? również? older people. Less than half of those above 45 think they can find a of three people polledZdaniem does not believe he can meet these expectations. doświadczenia doświadczenia zawodowego. zawodowego. Zdaniem respondentów respondentów punktem punktem job comparable to the one they now have (44 percent in the 45-55 age startowym startowym dla stałego dla stałego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia może być może praca być tymczasowa. praca tymczasowa. Respondenci Respondenci pytanipytani o to, co o ma to, co większe ma większe znaczenie znaczenie podczas podczas poszukiwania poszukiwania Spring enthusiasm has dissipated among employees – Poles are once again filled with insecurity

group and 46 percent in the 55-65 group). The results of the survey also point to the fact that women are less

pracy nie pracy mają niewątpliwości mają wątpliwości - zdecydowana - zdecydowana większość większość (86%) (86%) badanych badanych

MniejMniej obaw obaw o utrzymanie o utrzymanie pracypracy i więcej i więcej wiarywiary w możliwość w możliwośćPolaków Polaków uważa,uważa, że doświadczenie że doświadczenie zawodowe zawodowe przeważa przeważa nad wykształcenad wykształcecertain about their job prospects than men. The percentage of women According to the latest survey “Work Monitor” carried put by HR niem. Co istotne, Co istotne, w wynikach w wynikach nie widać nie widać wyraźnego wyraźnego zróżnicowania zróżnicowania znalezienia znalezienia nowej nowejas many as 36 percent of Poles surveyed see the risk niem. saying they could find a comparable job within six months was 10 points advisory Randstad, of losing their jobs in the next six months as high or moderately high.

w odpowiedziach w odpowiedziach różnych różnych grup wiekowych grup wiekowych – zarówno – zarówno młodzi, młodzi, jak i starsi jak i starsi lower than the figure for men (55 percent for women against 65 percent

wiekiem pracownicy pracownicy są tak są samo tak zgodni. samo zgodni. Jak pokazują JakThis pokazują wyniki wyniki ostatniego ostatniego sondażu Monitor Monitor Rynku Rynku Pracythe Instytutu Pracy Instytutu wiekiem of men). result puts Poland asondażu few percentage points above European Badawczego Badawczego Randstad drugiedrugie półrocze półrocze rozpoczęło rozpoczęło poprawą nastrojów nastrojów average (31Randstad percent) and is the highest scoresię in poprawą thesię three years that the Zdaniem badanych, badanych, wiek stanowi wiek stanowi jednakjednak bardzobardzo ważnyważny czynnik czynnik podczas podczas w gronie w gronie badanych badanych Polaków. Polaków. Nie jest Nie tojest zmiana to zmiana radykalna, radykalna, ale pierwsza ale pierwsza Zdaniem Employers' expectations increase. Employees uncertain if they can meet survey has been conducted. poszukiwań poszukiwań pracy, pracy, ponieważ ponieważ kandydaci kandydaci różnych różnych pokoleń, pokoleń, są przez są przez po roku posystematycznie roku systematycznie pogarszających się wyników. się wyników. them. The level of jobpogarszających insecurity is strongly correlated with the age of the pracodawców pracodawców różnieróżnie traktowani. traktowani. PonadPonad 4 na 54badanych na 5 badanych w Polsce w Polsce A vast majority of respondents (84 percent) believe that the level of respondents. Younger people were the most insecure about keeping stwierdziło, stwierdziło, że osobom że osobom młodym młodym (poniżej (poniżej 25 roku 25życia) roku jest życia) trudniej jest trudniej na na BadaniBadani pracownicy nieco rzadziej nieco obawiają się utraty utraty pracy.ofpracy. Choć obawa, Choć qualifications potential employers expect from candidates has increased. theirpracownicy jobs over the nextrzadziej sixobawiają months, with 48się percent those agedobawa, 25-34 rynku rynku pracy, pracy, a ponad a ponad 90% uważa, 90% uważa, że ukończywszy że ukończywszy 55 rok55 życia roktrudniej życia trudniej że ich że bieżąca ich umowa umowa zostanie zostanie zerwana zerwana lub nieprzedłużona lub nieprzedłużona nadal nadal This sentiment is more prevalent among the employees of the public andbieżąca 47 percent of the 18-24 age group saying they fear losing their jest znaleźć jest znaleźć pracę.pracę. Co więcej, Co więcej, w opinii w opinii badanych badanych trudnatrudna sytuacja sytuacja na rynku na rynku dotyczy dotyczy blisko blisko co trzeciego co trzeciego respondenta respondenta (34%), (34%), tothe wynik to wynik tenout plasuje ten plasuje sector (87 percent) than private companies (82 percent). jobs. The score for people aged 35-44 was lowest of all the age obu pracygrup obuwiekowych grup wiekowych sprawia, sprawia, że i najmłodsi że i najmłodsi i najstarsi i najstarsi są skłonni są skłonni do do PolskęPolskę nagroups poziomie na poziomie średniej europejskiej europejskiej i znacznie i znaczniepracy Respondents said that employers expect better computer literacy (88 andnieznacznie twice nieznacznie as lowpowyżej as thatpowyżej ofśredniej the younger group (24 percent). zaniżania zaniżania swoichswoich kwalifikacji kwalifikacji dla podjęcia dla podjęcia pracy (odpowiednio pracy (odpowiednio 87% 87% poniżej poniżej krajów krajów o Słonina, mniej o mniej stabilnych stabilnych gospodarkach gospodarkach jak Grecja (45%),and (45%), percent) and interpersonal skills (81 percent). Employers also tend Kajetan Managing Director of thejak HRGrecja consultancy tempoi 90%).i 90%). Hiszpania Hiszpania (42%) (42%) czy Węgry czy Węgry (40%).(40%). rary work agency Randstad said: “In the spring issue of our study we saw some signs of enthusiasm among Poles surveyed, however this positive

to expect more experience from candidates (76 percent) and better educational background (73 percent).

Z podkreślaniem Z podkreślaniem istotności istotności doświadczenia doświadczenia zawodowego zawodowego dla budowania dla budowania Pod kątem Podattitude kątem oceny oceny dostępności dostępności ofert This pracy ofert pracy Polacy są obecnie jednym jednym Respondents had no doubts that the expectations from employers will failed to continue. is Polacy caused by obecnie thesą fact that despite karierykariery zawodowej, zawodowej, bardzobardzo spójnaspójna jest opinia jest opinia zdecydowanej zdecydowanej większości większości z najbardziej z najbardziej optymistycznych optymistycznych narodów narodów objętych objętych sondażem. W przypadku W przypadku continue to increase in the next five years (78 percent), although fewer announcements of economic improvement madesondażem. by both experts and badanych badanych Polaków Polaków (88%),(88%), że trampoliną że trampoliną do zdobycia do zdobycia stałego stałego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia konieczności konieczności znalezienia znalezienia nowego nowego pracodawcy w any ciągu w nadchodzącego ciągu nadchodzącego employees of public institutions than private firms share that belief (74 entrepreneurs, employees still dopracodawcy not see tangible results of that może być może dlabyć nich dlazatrudnienie nich zatrudnienie w formule w formule tymczasowej. tymczasowej. Takiego Takiego zdaniazdania półrocza, półrocza, aż 68% ażbadanych 68%will badanych ocenia, ocenia, że znajdzie że znajdzie porównywalne porównywalne doof percent and 80 percent respectively). As many as 9 out of 10 employees recovery. They not become more optimistic until the do forecasts byli zarówno byli zarówno pracownicy pracownicy młodsi,młodsi, jak i starsi, jak i starsi, choć co choć ważne, co ważne, badanibadani obecnego obecnego stanowisko stanowisko w innej wfirmie. innej Pod increase tym Pod względem tym względem jedynie jedynie declare they will strive to keep up with the rising level of qualifications economic growth turn into afirmie. real in the output or sales of postrzegali postrzegali pracę tymczasową, pracę tymczasową, jako rozwiązanie jako rozwiązanie raczej raczej dla osób dlamłodych osób młodych Norwegowie Norwegowie przewyższają nas wand nas swoim w swoim optymizmie. optymizmie. Najniżej Najniżej swoje swoje expected from people in their position. However, a third of them are theirprzewyższają company's services until their own situation improves. That is szanseszanse na znalezienie na znalezienie nowego nowego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia oceniliocenili Hiszpanie Hiszpanie - jedynie - jedynie co co(58%).(58%). afraid they might not be able to keep up with increasing expectations in the future. Interestingly, respondents think that both the employer and the employee are responsible for making sure a person's qualifications match the position he or she holds. As many as 80 percent of those Co bardzo Co bardzo ważne, ważne, odczuwana odczuwana poprawa poprawa nastrojów nastrojów nie dotyczy nie dotyczy wszystkich wszystkich surveyed believe it is the employer's role to ensure this qualification Readiness to change highest in Europe “Monitor “Monitor Rynkuthe Rynku Pracy” Pracy” jest kwartalnym jest kwartalnym sondażem realizowanym realizowanym zatrudnionych. zatrudnionych. Wyniki Wyniki badania badania pokazują pokazują znaczący znaczący wzrost wzrost obaw obaw o utratę o utratę match, almost same percentage thinksondażem employees are responsible The high level of job insecurity makes employees more prepared and w 32 that. krajach w 32 krajach Europy, Europy, Azji, Australii Azji, Australii i obu Ameryk. i obu Ameryk. Sondaż Sondaż jest jest stanowiska stanowiska pracowników pracowników najstarszych najstarszych wiekiem wiekiem – ta grupa – ta grupa zwiększyła zwiększyła się się for ready to change jobs. Poles' mobility index increased significantly over przeprowadzany przeprowadzany poprzez poprzez ankiety ankiety on-lineon-line w grupie w grupie respondentów respondentów w tymw kwartale tym jedną o jedną trzecią trzecią (z 28% (zw28% II/2013 w II/2013 41% do obecnie). 41%its obecnie). the kwartale lastoquarter and stood at 111 points, 4do points above May 2013 w wieku od 18 od do 18 64 do lat,64 pracujących lat, pracujących minimum minimum 24 godziny 24 godziny Podobnie Podobnie wysokie wysokie są też są obawy obawy osób najmłodszych, osóbreading najmłodszych, dopiero rozpoczynarozpoczynareading. Currently itteż is the highest in dopiero Europe, where the average w wieku w tygodniu (z wykluczeniem (z wykluczeniem osób samozatrudnionych). osób samozatrudnionych). jącychjących swoją swoją karierę karierę zawodową (39%). (39%). Ponadto, o ilevalue woprzypadku ilerecorded w przypadku oceny mobility index is atzawodową 99 points (with thePonadto, lowest in the oceny w tygodniu “Work Monitor” is a quarterly survey carried out in 32 countries DobórDobór prób dla prób badanych dla badanych populacji populacji jest przeprowadzany jest przeprowadzany przez przez możliwości możliwości znalezienia znalezienia nowej nowej pracy młodsi pracy młodsi respondenci respondenci badania badania (18-24(18-24 Netherlands – 87 points). inmiędzynarodowy Europe, Asia, Australia andSurvey the Americas. TheInternational. survey is międzynarodowy instytut instytut Survey Sampling Sampling International. Próba Próba oraz 25-34 oraz lat) 25-34 są lat) najbardziej są najbardziej optymistyczni, optymistyczni, to najstarsi to najstarsi odpowiadający odpowiadający Employee turnover also remains high. Nearly a quarter (23 percent) of conducted by an e-mailed questionnaire sent to respondents w Polsce w Polsce wynosiwynosi 405 respondentów 405 respondentów (w całym (w całym badaniu badaniu wzięłowzięło udziałudział w badaniu w badaniu Polacy mieli blisko mieli blisko dwukrotnie gorsze oceny oceny (odpowiednio (odpowiednio allPolacy respondents changed jobsdwukrotnie in thegorsze past six months, which is one of the 18fali to 13.967 64, working at least 24 hours each week (with the w tejaged fali w tej 13.967 osób). osób). 78% wobec 78% wobec 42%levels dla 42% porównywalnej porównywalnej pracy).pracy). highest ofdla employee turnover in Europe, where the average was exception of self-employed persons). The selection of the samples 17 percent. for the groups is done by the Survey Sampling International Kajetan Słonina said: “Most of the respondents in our country change Wysoki Wysoki poziom poziom rotacji rotacji związanych związanych ze zmianami ze zmianami institute. The size of the sample surveyed in Poland was 405 jobs looking for better employment conditions or because they were strukturalnymi strukturalnymi respondents (this issue of the survey included 13,967 people in unhappy with their former employer. It is, however, alarming that total). nearly apokazują, third pokazują, of respondents to change jobs because their(25%) former WynikiWyniki badania badania że w ostatnim że whad ostatnim półroczu półroczu co czwarty co czwarty (25%) Contact: Contact: company underwent restructuring. This decreases employees' polski polski respondent respondent zmienił zmienił pracodawcę. pracodawcę. Po trzech Pofurther trzech kwartałach kwartałach ze średnią ze średnią perceived job security.” Randstad Randstad Polska Polska sp. zsp. o.o.z o.o. dynamiką dynamiką zmianzmian bliską bliską europejskiej europejskiej (16%) (16%) jest tojest bardzo to bardzo duża zmiana duża zmiana why it is now very important to pay more attention to communication

trzeci badany trzeci badany ocenia, ocenia, że będzie będzie mógł znaleźć mógłnews znaleźć porównywalną porównywalną nowąnews nową pracę with employees andże share all good with them – good haspracę (34%).(34%). Wea wszystkich We wszystkich krajach krajach europejskich europejskich łącznie, łącznie, odpowiedzi odpowiedzi takiej takiej significant influence on employee enthusiasm and assuages their udzielała udzielała co druga co druga osoba osoba (51%).(51%). insecurity.”

oraz najwyższy oraz najwyższy obecnie obecnie rezultat rezultat pośródpośród badanych badanych krajówkrajów naszego naszego Poles not w sure about theirGłówną job prospects kontynentu kontynentu w tym okresie. tym okresie. Główną przyczyną przyczyną zmianyzmiany pracy przez pracy przez With a udział relatively high level of mobility, Poles are becoming less certain biorących biorących udział w badaniu w badaniu było poszukiwanie było poszukiwanie lepszych lepszych warunków warunków that(35%). they can find za a new job easily. After the surgewpływem in employee zatrudnienia zatrudnienia (35%). Zaraz Zaraz nim, za znim, niemal z niemal identycznym identycznym wpływem optimism in the summer, the last quarter saw few changes in the way - zmiany - zmiany w strukturze w strukturze firmy, firmy, których których znaczenie znaczenie od roku odsystematycznie roku systematycznie Poles see their opportunities on the job market. ”64 percent of those rośnierośnie (34% obecnie, (34% obecnie, 22% w22% maju w2012). maju 2012).

Al.Contact: Jerozolimskie Al. Jerozolimskie 56c 00-803 56c 00-803 Warszawa Warszawa Randstad Polska sp. firma@pl.randstad.com z o.o. tel.: 22 tel.:462 22 25 462 00, 25firma@pl.randstad.com 00, Al. Jerozolimskie 56c 00-803 Warszawa www.randstad.pl/pracodawca www.randstad.pl/pracodawca tel.: 22 462 25 00, firma@pl.randstad.com www.randstad.pl/pracodawca

historic center REcONstRuctiON

brooklyn burgers & Wings Nowy Świat 36

Open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00 One of the top burger emporiums in Warsaw, and one who’ve tailored their open hours to suit boozy schedules.

Fabryka Frytek Złota 3

Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00

Warsaw’s best Belgian fries come in a range of shapes and sizes, and with a wealth of sauces to go with them. If you’re doing Pub Crawl No. 2 (overleaf), note they’re also on Waryńskiego 9.

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burger kitchen

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Widok 8

Open Mon-Thu 7:30-23:00; Fri 7:301:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00

There is no competition, this is Poland’s top burger bar none. Don’t miss other street food-style bites like the Hoi Sin wings.

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tWo For the roAD

Warsaw is increasingly choked with bars, yet devising a pub crawl remains a big ask: too many routes are mined and booby trapped by the big beer vendors and their chemical stock. Bypass them entirely by following the Insider’s weaving path… BY aleX WeBBer

WarsaW InsIder | NOVEMBER 2013

a dzk

óln

1 Hoż

Meat love

Hoża 62

Open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 The best sandwiches in the country come served in fresh baguettes and loaded with prime cuts of meat. The roast beef is magnificent.

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Fok

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WURSt KioSK

Nowy Świat 22 (the Pavilion bars) Open Mon-Thu 13:00-23:00; Fri 13:00-3:00; Sat 18:00-3:00

Imported German sausages just like the ones you can’t stop eating on the way back from Berlin Hauptbahnhof. Served from a hatch, so you’ll be eating on the street.

DiNeR 55

Żurawia 32/34 Looking to open in November, Diner 55 bring together Pan Burger, Mr. Pancake and Rico’s Tacos under one roof. Night owls will be watching this one closely.

ub crawls are a tough business. In the words of comedian Al Murray, you need two things: ‘a game plan and an end in sight’. It’s for this reason the Szlak Piwa map that went viral over summer can largely be disregarded: a nice poster, sure, a clever marketing tool, definitely. But in all practicality, you’re just not going to get from Praga to Mirów without the aid of a space rocket. Which is why we’ve come up with something a little less complicated… As a natural starting block use (1) Spiskowcy Rozkoszy, an increasingly lively bar that originally made its name as an eccentric looking student haunt. Having prospered last year, they’ve dug downwards and opened up the cellar. Three things you need to know: i) the good bottled beers are on the ground floor; ii) there’s seven or so tap beers in the basement; iii) the toilets look like some psychedelic dream trap – they’ll leave your brain scrambled. Next up is the short walk to (2) Piw Paw, best visited at the start of a pub crawl for purely tactical reasons: there’s 57 tap beers, but only two toilets. Clearly, with odds like that something is going to give, and it’s usually the bladder. For this reason, visit early. Find (3) Kufle i Kapsle round the corner. Many claim this to be their favorite multi-tap, but that’s just one string to their bow – the selection of bottles is staggering in variety and quality. You dream of being accidentally locked in overnight. Downside is the queuing system: it takes one person to break the queue code, and the rest panic and follow. You won’t have far to wander for p(o)int No. 4 – Dubrovnik. Something of a wild-card entry, it’s on the list for serving beer stored in tanks, a crafty Czech idea that, quoting The Independent, ‘preserves the beers freshness so well it’s like drinking in the brewery itself.’ In this case, the cunning storage system removes the gag reflex usually associated with drinking Tyskie. The next steps take you through the underpass emerging by the Rotunda. You could roll into (5) Przekąski Zakąski, but doing so compromises your character. Who says so? The Mayor of Central Warsaw! Owner Adam Gessler has been a bit of a rascal, and somehow accrued a debt of zł. 32 million to the city. Till he pays up, you’re all urged to swerve it. Instead, zig-zag your way up to (6) Afera, possibly the best little shot bar there is at this time. More voddies await in either (7) Ulubiona or (8) Pijalnia. Both come with a fair measure of havoc, and watching all the tears and tiffs is a spectator sport. Crossing Nowy Świat, and it becomes easy to be sucked into the vortex that are the pavilion bars. That’s a pub crawl in itself and you do so at your peril. So, how about commie-themed (9) Meta? If nothing else, it’s a good benchmark of your condition: if you’re ordering gherkins or pocketing bits of their interior it’s wise to call it a night. If not, plug on. To (10) Kameralna, perhaps – this lot have yet to fine tune their daytime aspiration of being a restaurant, but while the food is a shambles they brew their own beer. That’s enough to earn them a place on this crawl. And if you’re not crawling yet then you soon bloody well will be. For a last hurrah, it’s (11) Cuda Na Kiju. Getting here means crossing a minefield of menace – you’ll be passing both Sogo strip club and the notorious Luztro. No good can come from visiting either. Remain true to your target. Let the reward be an intelligent selection of pedigree beer, not to mention a wobbly crowd largely free of know-it-all beer geeks. Put simply, Cuda make 99% of Poland’s bars look pointless.

PUb CRAWl # 2 on next page >

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Food and drink puB cRawls

riginally Route No. 2 was designed in reverse order, and it took a couple of attempts before realizing it just wasn’t going to happen – for many, it becomes too easy to become mired in the smoking room of the Tortilla Factory, swapping tall tales with the Rogues Gallery of ex-pats. For this purpose, Route 2 has been turned on its head. Start down south, namely in (1) Świetlica. Submerged in a permanent darkness, penetrate the gloom to make out a collection of Czech bottled beers, before clattering off into the shadows to start the night. (2) Małe Piwo comes next, along with its daunting collection of bottled craft beers. Looking sparse and impromptu, the line-up includes a well-edited choice of all that is trending from Poland’s independent brewers. Onwards, and find (3) Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem hidden down a discreet concrete snicket. It’s the original project from the Cuda Na Kiju mob, which indicates a lot as to the beers you’ll discover. Tumbling out onto pl. Zbawiciela, and you find yourself in an area living in a state of disconnect with the rest of the capital. Known by some as pl. Hipsterka, those older than 25 reel and spin at the looks that are on show: the clothes, the hair, it was all so different back in the day. But love ’em or loathe ’em, hipsters do like going out and, if you communicate with them, they don’t look at you like you’re impersonating a goose. To this end, the area is congested with bars, and most of them are friendly. Concrete-looking (4) Warszawska is an embodiment of this theory, with a selection of shots that are fuel for the party. There’s a real vibrancy here, and unlike most all-nighter shot bars, you don’t get that feeling it’ll all end in punches. But what is pl. Zbawiciela without (5) Plan B. Does it even warrant a place on a pub crawl centered on good beer and shots? With those criteria in mind, most definitely not. But you can’t miss it. Doing so is like visiting London and not popping round for tea with the Queen. A shadowy demi-monde of dropouts and cool kids, cleaning the place would be an Augean task – which explains why most staff don’t bother. The result is a dive bar in the truest sense of the word. Not to mention, a proper Warsaw legend. The temptation after is to hop on a tram and leapfrog (6) Pulp Fiction. Doing so though denies you the liberating sensation of rebirth. Having left the Hipster Kingdom, mixing with normal people is a high in itself. Fashions make sense once again. You find yourself wondering if it was all just a dream. Ponder reality over fatal vodka combos. (7) Secado fall next on your list, and their inclusion is subject to question – after all, it’s a restaurant first and foremost. In our defense, they serve some Belgian beer and they have a smoking room. On leaving, Pub Crawl 2.0 heats up with appearance of (8) Kwadrat. Now this place was around long before demand for craft beer jumped off the chart, and can be considered something of a market pioneer. One of our favorite drinking haunts in town, their cause is bolstered by three fridges of alcoholic joy, and a young, casual vibe that never leans on pretentious. And with Kwadrat crossed off, you enter the home straight. Away from lager, (9) Warsaw Tortilla Factory continue to serve a Guinness that’s unmatched in the city, and quite possibly in Poland. Extracting yourself from that isn’t always simple, but you’re urged to do so for a final tipple and a topple at The Siamese Twin. Co-joined by a narrow little doorway, let (10) Kraken and Beirut be your finish line. During the day there’s a lot of competitive posturing as media types pose by their Macs. But come night, this veneer of cool dissolves into one happy blur. Blame the quirky guest lagers for that.

WarsaW InsIder | NOVEMBER 2013

KroWarzyWa Hoża 42

Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Extraordinary vegan burgers whose appeal extends beyond hipsters on a health kick.

Kosz yKoW a

oKienKo Polna 22

Open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 A hole-in-the-wall Belgian fry operation whose standards vary in the extreme. The sauces are the best there are, though there’s been times when we’ve left the fries in a bin.

a Hoż

friTerie

Hoża 42

sk a nań Poz

Open Mon-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-24:00

Not just Belgian fries, but also burgers which some Insider’s have claimed to be their favorite in the city.

9 za wilc

Piękna

BisTro Berlin

Marszałkowska 43 M ar

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-24:00

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Part booze store, part cracking food joint. Belgian fries go alongside great big German-style bangers. The chillibratwurst is worth the jaunt.

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Tuk Tuk Cafe

Mokotowska 17

Open 11:00-22:00 A steamy Thai joint that illustrates just how far food-on-the-run has evolved here since the unfortunate heyday of the kebab era.

Pizza z Żuka

Pl. Zbawiciela

Open Fri-Sat 22:00-5:00 Polish-style pizza sold from the back of a crazy Scooby Doo truck. Nothing great, but definitely adequate for a between beer filler.

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out of town pOlaND'S NuclEaR SEcRET

WarsaW InsIder | NOVEMBER 2013

completely Bunkers

all is not what it seems - in a slow corner of Wielkopolska, secret cold War preparations for armageddon have come to light after lying hidden and forgotten beneath a quiet suburban house... TeXT & PHOTOs BY ed WIGHT

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out of town pOlaND'S NuclEaR SEcRET

previous spread: inside the command post. this page: doctored house - the officer's home hiding the nuclear bunker. opposite page, from top: bomb's the word - the Mayor's quarters; communication's what you need - the telephone exhange.

or six decades it remained hidden, a secret known only to a select few. even locals in the quiet suburban street where it stands were unaware of the true identity of the house’s occupants or about what lay hidden underneath. “throughout its whole history, this place has been shrouded in mystery and rumor,” says jacek bartkowiak from the fight for independence Museum which now owns the place. “for sure, the people living around here couldn’t help but notice the strange comings and goings of men in uniforms, or of the others flitting in and out of the shadows at odd hours,” continues jacek. “and they couldn’t help but wonder about the two young girls who played in the garden but who were never allowed to have friends round. but of course, no one dared ask. and none of them could’ve guessed what it really was,” he says. What it “really was”, was a top secret nuclear command bunker from

where operations would be directed in the event of a nuclear attack on poland. constructed in the early 1950s at the start of the cold War the nondescript house, and what was then a state-of-the-art bunker, remained in use right up until the end of the ’90s. following the collapse of communism, it was taken over by uop (poland’s then secret intelligence service, the office of state security), who used it as a safe house for clandestine meetings. When they were disbanded in 2002, the house and bunker were sold to the city of poznań. built on słupska street in Krzyżowniki on the outskirts of the city, the two-floored house was originally home to an army officer, his wife and their two daughters. but although maintaining an outwardly normal appearance, they were just a cover to hide the real activity going on below. “even today, we aren’t allowed to know their names,” says jacek. “one of the daughters still lives in the area and came back to visit recently.

WarsaW InsIder | NOVEMBER 2013

she was quite silent as she walked around the old house, as if she still carried the secrets of her childhood with her. and she refused to go into the bunker. she didn’t say why,” he says. in preparation for war, soldiers were posted in shifts around the clock to both guard and maintain the bunker and to ensure it was war-ready. “as the arms race escalated, and with tensions between east and West running high, by the mid-1960s the prospect of full-out nuclear war was very real,” jacek continues. “every region in poland had something similar to this, but the authorities needed to hide them somewhere inconspicuous. and so they hid this one under a specially-built house and moved a family in to make it look normal,” jacek explains, leading us to a solid iron door hidden away behind the back of the house where the bunker lies beneath the garage. “there would have been armed guards here,” he says glancing

around as if he expects one to appear. the door opens with an aching creak, revealing a narrow flight of stairs leading into a dark and claustrophobic silence. a central corridor of prisongreen stretches ahead, propaganda posters lining the walls, rooms spidering off either side. spread over 600 square meters, the 30-odd rooms each played a vital function in the defense of the Wielkopolska region.

“nothing has been changed, it's all exactly as it was back then, except for the top secret documents...”

riginally intended for top military brass, it was later decided to allow the Mayor of poznań in on the secret, too. “this is his office,” says jacek as we step inside a small, sparsely decorated room with air pipes crisscrossing the ceiling, throwing giant bananashaped shadows across the walls. in one corner is a bed, in another a desk with a green telephone. on the walls are three maps showing post-war poland, Wielkopolska and 1970s poznań. “this is where he would have lived in the event of war. next door is a room where a policeman and a security agent sat,” says jacek showing us an adjacent guard room no bigger than a cubby hole. a desk, chair and two telephones, one linked directly to intelligence hQ, the other to Warsaw, fill the space. “nothing has been changed, it’s all exactly as it was back then, except for the top secret documents, of course,” says jacek. “but this wasn’t the hub, that’s down here,” he adds, leading us down another corridor and into the command center, a vast room dominated by a central conference table, telephones of green, black and red, and maps on every wall. it was in this room that the fate of everyone in the Wielkopolska region would have lain, he explains, with dozens of telephones linked up to all the important government, military and emergency hotlines. “each map shows where all aircraft in poland would have been at any given time, including enemy planes and missiles, enabling generals and planners to know where and when to launch counterstrikes. it was the closest they had to real-time intelligence analysis,” he says. next door is a telephone exchange, 20 small cubicles placed back-toback, where operators would have been linked up to important government offices. to sustain life in the 200

capacity bunker, three rooms were stacked with air drums, enough for six months. the drums are still there, and so are the beds, piled in a corner with musty, rotting bed sheets and pillows. “there’s only one toilet, which must have been a bit awkward,” says jacek. “and there isn’t a kitchen or canteen. the people working here were expected to bring sandwiches

from their homes and eat at their desks.” he sounds wistful. “the faded memories of a socialist dream,” he mutters as we make our way back outside. Open on the last Saturday of every month. ul. Słupska 62, Krzyżowniki, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl.

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interview the rise of stand-up

The Heart of Laughter

In lifestyle terms the time lapse between Poland and Western Europe started narrowing a long time ago. Only recently, however, have we seen bold, brave attempts to plug the comedy chasm... BY aLeX WeBBer

There’s a few of you involved in stand-Up Polska, spill the beans… M: i think each of us in the group is something of a frustrated philosopher, so there’s a lot of wordplay and suchlike. it’s also quite a diverse group. one of the guys, he’s like one of the tracksuit thugs you see hanging about. You wouldn’t guess his mother is a jazz singer and his father works at the theater. But his comic style and stage persona are electric. there’s another, maybe it’s the drugs,

WarsaW InsIder | NOVEMBER 2013

but he genuinely believes that if you hug a tree you can feel alien energy. K: We’re comedy vagabonds… M: We’re all different people. Kris, for instance, is gay, and i think he’s actually done a lot of good for the gay community, showing that being homosexual isn’t just about dressing up in fur at parades. But we all have a common bond, and that’s comedy. We’re married through that, and we all share the same view on ‘funniness’. Why has stand-up in Poland taken so long to develop? M: for a long period of time we obviously had one common enemy we would all laugh at – the authorities. now though, we need to switch from laughing at the ‘enemy’ to laughing at ourselves. people are used to laughing at others, but not at themselves. We need time as a society to change that. K: in poland you’ve currently got four main comedy icons, or targets let's say: the doctor, the priest, the politician and the policeman. at stand-up polska we don’t want to do that. Life is so complex we don’t need to be laughing at what we’ve

photograph BY Maciej szaL

ou can switch off the tV. after years of dire sitcoms and Benny Hill re-runs, a new generation of comedians are revolutionizing polish comedy. formed four years back, the stand-up polska collective were the chaps who lured dylan Moran to Warsaw last month, and there’s plans in the pipeline for other big stars. But their mission goes beyond importing talent; they are the talent. the Insider speaks to two of the faces behind the group, Maciek adamczyk and Krzysztof unrug…

“People need superheroes and in Poland the Pope is like spider-man” been laughing at for the last fifty years. i think stand-up here needs another generation to truly succeed. We need people who don’t remember communism. We need polish people to think of poland as european not eastern european. you see polish comedy on tV and the audience is full of these red faced people who look like they’ve spent the last three years drinking. i don’t want to perform for them! Is it right to say that, in general, comedy is a lot more ‘basic’ here in Poland? K: Well, i’ll give you an example. there’s one comedian out here who became a sensation after making a joke about a farting pope. it caused a lot of scandal because people need superheroes and in poland the pope is like spider-Man. but it also gave this guy massive overnight success. but we don’t want to be doing this. We want to do something that actually makes us laugh. Has stand-up developed quicker in the other ‘new european’ countries? K: it’s huge in hungary, it’s definitely developed quicker there. i don’t know why, maybe because of their history – the habsburg empire wasn’t that conservative, it was always more of a mixed culture. history hasn’t been as rough on hungary, either. How is your audience? K: it’s good to kiss ass in any medium, but i do genuinely believe our audience is smart. they’re fed up with what’s on tV, and that’s why they’ve turned to the alternative scene. M: the problem is when we go to smaller cities, “b poland” let’s call it. people aren’t used to offensive or edgy comedy. they don’t always know how to act – they interact with us, but they don’t know how to do it. sometimes, it feels like they want to be the show. Heckling must be a right pain… K: the hecklers are usually very drunk, so it’s easy to deal with them – they make fools out of themselves, they don’t need much help from us. What you can’t do is tell them to ‘f**k off’. though we did actually do that once, and it worked! We were in sopot and there was this woman, fifty or sixty years old, a doctor she told us, who was utterly drunk. she just wouldn’t stop heckling until finally we snapped. she found that so funny she behaved after! a lot of people are rightly terrified of public speaking and performing in public – to then be expected to make people laugh, that must be petrifying… K: being nervous is a good sign. i did a stand-up in english in budapest and i felt like i was performing for the first time – i couldn’t sleep for like two or three nights before!

M: but we’ve been doing this for four years now, so it is something you get used to. and really, it’s easier to perform in front of a couple of hundred people than it is eight people. in our early days we had more performers on stage than there were people in the crowd. the important thing is to do your best – i don’t remember the last time i felt like i could do better, and if i ever felt like that in the future then that’d be my last show. Which comedians switch you on? K: Louis c.K. i went to watch him in London recently and it was fantastic. i think Maciek just stayed at home smoking weed, staring at his wall. M: no, i just have an interesting wall. K: then there’s richard pryor, eddie Murphy, dave chappelle. and i love don rickles: he’s been doing these same jokes since the 1960s, they’re insults, actually, but done in such a sweet way and with his ‘noo yoik’ accent. the jokes are the same but he manages to transform them, juggle them differently each time. M: i’m obsessed with pimp society, so cat Williams is great – the fur, the gold, the diamonds. doing that in Warsaw though, that’s a bit hard. K: We like weirdoes, as well. emo philips. the guy looks like some neo-calvinist, a minstrel from King arthur with this weird fluty voice. amazing. Clearly, this mag is aimed at foreigners – how would you describe Warsaw to them… M: Wonderfully deconstructed. it’s not paris, it’s not London, we have a unique organized chaos. K: people need time to adjust to Warsaw. even adjust their digestive system to Warsaw. pr is invisible here. you’d think the Warsaw uprising is the only thing we’ve done. there’s this huge cult of the uprising, when instead it should be presented as a warning not to f**k with a big army. What was the paris of the east is now the radom of europe. M: people in Warsaw are more connected to their district than they are to the city as a whole. people don’t say i’m from Warsaw, they say i’m from saska or gocław. you’ve got like ten districts and they exist like their own little cities – intelligent Żoliborz, drug-dealing grochów... together, they form the city. Is there anything you’d change here… K: the city lacks public space; just take a look at the squares. all our squares are parking lots. M: Welcome to Warsaw, the city of parking Lots… that you have to pay for. For more on Stand-Up Polska, and also news on upcoming English-language shows, check: standuppolska.com facebook.com/warsawinsider

Wilanów

NEIGhBORhOOD

Those new to Warsaw can get used to hearing a lot about Wilanów. Though primarily famed for its palace and spectacular church, this is not just a district stuck in the past – recent expansion has been conducted at a meteoric rate, with swathes of new developments attracting a young, well-off crowd.

The Luncheonettes

n Baby Buggy Land, also known as Nowy Wilanów, it isn’t just the little tikes who are popping up everywhere. This southern bedroom community is prime restaurant hunting ground. Someone has to feed all the yuppies (a borrowed, re-formatted acronym for Young Upwardlymobile Polish Parents) – and it’s a good bet you’ll find many of them at the new Basico.

True to its name, Basico is a pretty straight forward dining establishment. With a simple, dynamic interior that sports loads of light with three walls of windows, its menu features fresh and minimalized Italian combinations. Thoughtful pairings of flavor pre-empt the need for elaborate concoctions. Even the prix fixe luncheon is basic: no choices, just soup of the day and main of the day. But customers here are promised no repetition. Every day, every week, a different soup and pasta or pizza is available to encourage regular patronage. Marek and Agata Kościkiewicz make up two-thirds of the ownership team. Agata pleasantly flushes as she recalls how she always wanted to have a restaurant and she is delighted to find the community so welcoming since their opening in June. Marek is a well-known composer, singer and guitarist, and settling nicely into this new enterprise. He has influenced the addition of a wall of wine, available for take away or on-site sipping, at a 15% corkage fee. Master chef, Adam Przybysz, the third owner, reigns in his open kitchen which is a countered corner of the restaurant that protrudes into the dining area. While the luncheonettes thoroughly enjoyed the meals, giving all thumbs up, of particular note were the soups. The a la carte stracciatella was a celebration of simple, consisting of an engaging and complex broth with dropped cheese/egg ‘noodles’. Likewise, the tomato soup du jour, which was fresh, lightly adorned with pumpkin seed oil and delicious to the bottom of the bowl. So with Basico’s winning formula (Adam cooks, Agata bakes the desserts, Marek minds the wine and pays the bills), the luncheonettes have found a new favorite haunt. Basico ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 115 0505, www.basico.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0022:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00.

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Neighborhood driNk & diNe Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00.

It happened so suddenly. Warsaw went from meat loser to meat lover in the space of a year. Bistecca, opened over 2 years ago, was one of the early pioneers, and to date remains one of the best. That people travel from well outside Wilanów to sample its delights speaks volumes. Pride of place goes to their signature Bistecca steak: a one kilo T-Bone shaped joint with strip steak on one side and tenderloin on

ul. Branickiego 9 lok.158 tel. 22 404 13 33 www.fornello.pl Mon-Thur 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00

ul. Przyczółkowa 400 tel. 888 723 723 www.tasteburger.pl, kontakt@tasteburger.pl Open every day: 12:00 - 22:00

Castello ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885 7505, www. castello.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Castello belongs to a select band of restaurants that are better known for their outrageous architecture than anything else. And yes, this place is a head turner. Decorated with a wooden ‘castle tower’, it’s a miracle that this adventurous piece of design hasn’t caused any traffic accidents. Increasingly passé in an area swelled by contemporary Italian food, it’s by no means a catastrophe; you’ll just find better elsewhere. China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws. Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices.

ul. Stanisława K. Potockiego 10/16 tel. 511 740 796 oficyna.kuchenna@ gmail.com Open 10:00-last guest

the other. For the thrill of DIY tableside cooking, order one of their ‘various kinds of meat grilled over volcanic stone’.

WarsaW InsIder | NOVEMBER 2013

Il Fornello ul. Branickiego 9, tel. 22 404 1333, www. fornello.pl. Open 11:00-22:00. Situated on Wilanów’s new restaurant strip, Il Fornello is a little less showy in its offer than its competitors, trotting out a rather standard series of Italian staples. Not that this should be construed as criticism: there’s no reason for needless overkill here, instead the chef settles for doing the basics and doing them well – nothing complicated and no surprises, just very decent food in a calm white interior that alludes to an Italian country cottage. La Vinuela ul. Klimczaka 5, tel. 22 258 0017. Open 11:00-22:00. A pleasant Wilanów wine bar, one whose stark look is balanced out by a short, concise menu that compliments the comprehensive choice of European and New World wines. Definitely recommended is the salmon served with raspberry sauce and Dijon mustard. Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. The summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. But beware the mosquitoes – they’re nasty buggers out here. Oficyna Kuchenna ul. Stanisław Kostka Potocki 10/16, tel. 511 740 796. Open 10:00-last guest. Located in what once functioned as the palace kitchen, Oficyna have sought to bring to life the dishes of times gone by. Utilizing the palace libraries, they’ve uncovered 300 year old recipes and have updated them using modern methods and natural products.

a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering. Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal.

Ohh Sushi! ul. Wiertnicza 102, tel. 22 642 16 18, www. ohhsushi.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Operating since 1998, Ohh Sushi is categorized as one of Warsaw’s original Japanese joints. Opened long before the popularization of sushi, this veteran saw the boom, survived the crash and never broke sweat. Let their longevity speak for itself. Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, www. spocoloco.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain begins and doesn’t retreat until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with serious respect. But this causal eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment.

Wine O’Clock ul. Hlonda 2, tel. 505 913 692. Open Mon-Fri 15:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. This wine bar/shop comes with the requisite wood fitting and boxes of stock lying about. In keeping with the young, upwardly spirit of the area, the featured wines lean towards emerging producers from the New World. Found on the deck floor of an upmarket residential block, the crowd is typically yachtie/casual.

ul. Kazachska 1 tel. 22 400 1122 www.taste.pl, rezerwacja@taste.pl Open everyday from 11:30-22:00

ul. Adama Branickiego 11 tel. 22 115 0505 www.basico.pl Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00

Taste Burger ul. Przyczolkowa 400, tel. 888 723 723, www. tasteburger.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00. Warsaw’s expanding burger culture breaches the borders of Wilanów with the opening of Taste Burger, a casual eatery with a neighborhood buzz – local twenty something’s sink into deckchairs while taking subtle tactical bites on such standouts as the shrimp burger. Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, www. taste.pl. Open daily 11:30-22:30. To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With

ul. Adama Branickiego 11 tel. 22 258 1243 www.bistecca.pl Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00

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FOODIE NEWS A collaboration between two of Warsaw’s best known restaurant blogs (restaurantica.pl and froblog.pl), Warsaw Foodie has emerged as the No. 1 site for local food related stories. Featuring all the latest from the foodie frontline, the bilingual Warsaw Foodie promises the hottest news on what’s trending on the restaurant radar. For more info, check: www.warsawfoodie.pl/en

U Chłopaków

The name references the deli that stood here previously. Set along a restored stretch of Chłodna, the menu in U Chłopaków (Chłodna 2/18) includes such Polish dishes as ribs, bigos, żurek and a healthy variety of pierogi.

Mezze

Five of the Best: Pizza made by Italians Ave Pizza There was a fair bit of suspicion when Ave (Topiel 12) announced prior to launching that they’d have Warsaw’s top pizza. But whose laughing now? The work of Lino and Fabio, a father and son team, Ave Pizza have over a dozen dreamy pizzas split into categories of biance and rosse.

With a few tables inside and a small garden outside, Mezze (Różana 1) has a short menu that – pita aside – is entirely gluten-free. For breakfast, order szakszuka, while later pick between the likes of falafel or the mezze plate: complete with pita, hummus, babaganoush, garlic paste and Labane zatar.

Mamma Marietta One of the most popular and well regarded Italian chefs in Warsaw, Andrea Scarantino has over 20 pizzas on offer in Mamma Marietta (Wołoska 74A). The mascarpone cheese pizza is our standout. Il Caminetto Residents of Saska have enjoyed Il Caminetto (Zwycięzców 46) for years, and while chef Walter Cherubini hails from Umbria as opposed Napels, the pizza capital, his pizzas are well-appreciated across the city. Trattoria Giancarlo Although it’s quite a way out of the city, Giancarlo Russo’s trattoria (Objazdowa 3) doesn’t struggle for custom. The charismatic Giancarlo will personally explain why he makes the best pizza in the area! Bella Napoli by Enzo Rossi It’s not Enzo who personally prepares the pizza at Bella Napoli (Nałączowska 60), rather Emilio. Find over 30 types of pizza and a few calzones in this Sadyba favorite.

Kava i Vino

Pook Pasta

The foundation here is fresh pasta, though Pook Pasta (Al. KEN 21) also cover salads, snacks and non-Italian dishes. Based around seasonal produce, this bistro is a project of passion. That’s evidenced by the owner’s culinary blog: www.pookcook.blogspot.com.

The standout feature is an unconventional interior designed by renowned architects Dobek, Wojcickiego, Białobrzeska, Boczko. Over 1,200 pieces of wood hang from the ceiling, creating a beautiful visual effect. The short menu features wine, cold meat platters, cheese bruschetta, wraps, salads and sandwiches, as well as a few daily specials.

WarsaW InsIder | NOVEMBER 2013

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WARSAW FOODIE ExCEPT TOP LEFT COURTESY OF AvE PIzzA

ave Pizza

Reviews: The Harvest 33 Plus:

* 23 updates

RESTAURANTS

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

AfrIcAn 34 / AmerIcAn 34 / AsIAn 34 / BAlkAn & russIAn 36 / BrItIsh 36 / Burgers 36 / cheAP eAts 38 / cookIng schools 60 / cuBAn 39 / food shoPs 58 / french 40 / germAn 40 /greek & turkIsh 40 / home delIvery 36 / IndIAn 40 / InternAtIonAl & fusIon 43 / ItAlIAn 48 /JAPAnese & sushI 50 / lAtIn 51 / mIddle eAstern 52 / PolIsh 53 / scAndInAvIAn 58

Insider’s Pick

f one was to pen a history of fine dining in Warsaw it would make a light read. With a few notable exceptions, in the twenty years that followed the changes of ’89, it meant bow-tied waiters and platters of game. It meant men with moustaches and hunched, elf-like pianists. Fine dining establishments were almost always defined by their collection of antique cupboards and floral diversions. Restraint, it seemed, was a four letter word. But silently, almost, the last few years have seen evolution take its course. even so, 2013 will be remembered as the banner year – the year Warsaw dining finally came of age. yet before the foodie wave, there were already giveaway signs of what was to come. It was in 2010 the Insider first heard of robert trzópek, the talented face of tamka 43. A one-time foot soldier at noma and el Bulli, trzópek’s return to Warsaw was met with fanfare. his restaurant was a hit. When he announced his departure earlier in the year, the capital’s growing group of

gastronauts reeled. the blogs wept. As of autumn, however, he’s back on the map. And not only is he back, but he’s got quite a team. What’s been assembled is the culinary equivalent of a fantasy football team. so for all that, its location is unlikely: buried deep in the office blocks of mokotów. for the romantic inside me it’s a little unbecoming – like seeing a prostitute position herself by the doors of a casino. “you don’t need to do this,” you find yourself thinking, “with a team like yours you’ll get custom anywhere.” But this

brazen bid to target the corporate wallet clearly works. We visit mid-afternoon, and the place is busy, maybe not packed but not far off it. the design is muted: lots of charcoal grey and concrete surfaces. the menu too, is tastefully simple. my girlfriend mentions something about not being hungry enough for starters, too which I warn she won’t see any of mine. But despite my stern caution, she does. that’s my doing though. the ‘oriental salad’ is too good to keep as my private little secret. I feel a need to share the joy. I come close to swooning. But for all this, the sheer bewildering quality of the starter has a curious side-effect. the corporate circle jerk going on all around frustrates me immensely. I want to walk around shaking people by their savile row shoulders. “stop talking about your bloody Q3 figures and talk about the food.” mains are equally as good. the filet rossini is luxury: porcini mushrooms, truffles, foie gras, and a deep cognac sauce to go with the pink filet steak. Both plates are left spotless and we reflect on nothing else as we wait for dessert – which, as it transpires, is quite some time. the service is smooth, educated and confident, but dessert takes 20 minutes to arrive and at no time are we informed what the hold-up is for. the reason eventually becomes apparent. the gf’s ‘tarte fine with caramel ginger sauce’ has been made from scratch. she revels in it. I too, am pleased: the selection of seasonal sorbets is pure food porn. I fall on it like a sordid pervert. the bill (about zł. 350 without wine) feels like money well-spent. true, you get the idea it could be more innovative, that trzopek has been told: “look bud, no crazy stuff out there.” But is that a complaint? If so, a minor one. the harvest is a pleasure and a triumphant return for one of Warsaw’s big names. (AW) The Harvest ul. Domaniewska 34A, tel. 22 223 6434. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00.

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RestauRants afRican

ameRican

La MaMa Africa ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. Sprayed with racist graffiti over summer, it was heartening to see the local community rally round in support of the owners. As for food, that’s an authentic rundown of dishes that include baked cow back and gizzard. Unfortunately, it’s just not to our taste: the goat stew felt like one big mistake. Judging by the repeat custom, not everyone shares our view. $$

Champions Sports Bar Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Sioux ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Someplace Else Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and in need of a company-wide rethink. Why do people bother? $$

asian asia tasty pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120. Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bliss Restaurant Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

Cesarski Pałac ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-yearold restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes to an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. See Wilanów section, p. 29 to p. 31. Du-Za mi-Ha ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ InAzia ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00. The Sheraton has a rich history of serving some of Warsaw’s best Asian food, with chef Marcin

Sasin creating a menu that draws on influences as diverse as Indonesian, Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, the experience is worth the quite considerable splurge. For the best deal visit for Sunday brunch which allows for a good sampling of their dishes. $$$

Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100. Open 12:0023:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Not to be defeated by the closure of Sunanta, Bangkok chef Chanunkan Dunagkumma makes a quick return to this cookery lark with Naam Thai. While spices have been blanded down to fit the local palette, it’s been a promising start. Look for the roast duck soup – made according to a closely guarded secret family recipe. $$ Natara Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500. Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ Natara Old Town ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13. Open 11:00-23:00. Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all

dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck. Highly recommended. $$ Papaya ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya. waw.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya have softened the interiors a little, giving the aesthetics a less rigid look. The menu is a considerable success and includes sushi, kobe beef and a much talked about Peking duck. Our advice, however, is to check out Poland’s only teppanyaki grill – thank us after. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, www.pekinduck.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750. Open 12:00-23:00. Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $

silk & spicy ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012. Open 12:00-last guest. If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ spring Roll ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 519 828 788. Open 11:00-23:00. Baleful ballads and twangy cover versions of Bryan Bloody Adams set the mood in this eatery. The signature dish – spring rolls – don’t go beyond six out of ten, so what hope the rest of the menu? The teriyaki chicken should be renamed teriyaki chicken giblets, and comes with the addition of the worst ingredient ever devised: steamed cauliflower. Ergh. Suddenly, all those empty seats make sense. $ Suparom Thai ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ suparom thaifood ii ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green

WE WElcomE you to Bistro WarszaWa for dElicious mEals and livE concErts Old Town Square 1/3 tel. +48 (22) 635 37 69 mobile + 48 501 438 007 bistro@bistrowarszawa.pl www.bistrowarszawa.pl

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RestauRants Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl. Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl. Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob Home of as theRain Thursday inc. players such by India Curry, Curry Club Osteria, Warsaw Papaya and Sakana.

curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ thai thai Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283. Open 12:00-23:00. Sanad Changpuen, a man widely credited with popularizing Thai food in Poland, returns to Warsaw with predictable results: the food is a hit. And what a space this acclaimed chef has been blessed with: gold vaulted ceilings lend a muted glow to a largely black-on-black space; from the walls, serene looking Buddha’s peer on diners down below. At once, the soothing interiors ease guests into a state of inner peace while Sanad does the rest. $$ Toan Pho ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.whythai. pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:001:00. A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the levels one expects. $$ Yummy ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious and the pad thai is a sure bet. $

Balkan & Russian Banja Luka ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalart who’ve moved with the times and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has a severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ U Madziara ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $

BRitisH The British Bulldog ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. Open 8:00-1:00. The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ legends ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

BuRgeRs Barn Burger ul. Złota 9. What finished summer 2012 as Warsaw’s most talked about burger has seen its stock nosedive somewhat. Even so, you’ll still find several people out there who remain fiercely loyal to their quite considerable offer. On our part, the Insider remains partial to the occasional Muppet Burger: a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. By the time you’ve finished with it, the

wooden board it’s served on will look like Jack the Ripper has just passed through town. $ Bistro & Burger Bar ul. Francuska 45, tel. 666 396 967. Open 11:00-22:00. What should you expect from a place that can’t even be bothered thinking about a name? Not much, is the answer. Warsaw has great burger bars, but also a few chancers that have been foisted upon us on the back of the craze. At best, you’d call it average. When paired with disinterested service you have the makings of pretty glum time. Don’t let them get away with it. $

Bobby Burger ul. E. Plater 47, tel. 785 833 603, bobbyburger. pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Perplexingly popular with hipsters who wouldn’t know a good burger if their daft haircut depended on it. Now sporting a new location (their old one was mysteriously ‘attacked’ just as they were preparing to handover to new tenants), this bottom feeder continues to prove popularity isn’t always a measure of quality. $

Brooklyn Burgers & Wings ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-5:00. There are those out there who claim Brooklyn to be the best burger in Warsaw – and we’re not talking about hipsters on longboards, but American ex-pats who really know the score. And yes, what you get with Brooklyn is something very good indeed – maybe not the best, but in a city with quite probably 70-odd burger bars, it’s certainly Top 3. That’s largely thanks to Alan, a young American chef wholly dedicated to his job. Homemade sauces, wings, ribs, strips and beer (inc. Sam Adams!). $ Burger Bar ul. Puławska 74/80 (enter from Olkuska). Open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Hands down the sort of burger Thurman and Travolta would chow in Pulp Fiction. Decorative elements don’t go beyond tables and chairs (of which there aren’t many), and waiting times can drive you nuts – as can the tramps who stagger past to the nearby bottle bank. The burgers though are a different class. $

Burger kitchen ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, www.burgerkitchen.pl. Open Mon-Thu 7:30-23:00; Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00. The burger trend hasn’t even crested, and that’s not a problem so long as there are talents like Tomek Woźniak around. His is a menu that considers everything from light, nutritious breakfasts, all the way up to sticky Hoisin chicken wings. His global travels are reflected in an outstanding offer that presents such details as homemade ketchup and authentic guacamole. As for the burger front, that involves matured, hand formed Angus meat, soft buns and sprinklings of caramelized onion and Mimolette cheese. It’s a fun, casual space with an appreciation of words like organic and nature. $ Bydło i Powidło ul. Kolejowa 47. Open 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get

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RestauRants away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet.

Ćwierćfunciak ul. Andersa 30, tel. 606 989 580. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Hidden in the gastronomic wasteland of Muranów, the impossibly named Ćwierćfunciak impresses with slathers of gloriously fresh ingredients, not to mention complimentary sides of hand-cut chips. Ranked in the Insider’s Top 5 best burger joints, that the resident beers are sourced from Pinta earns this friendly local a few extra points. $ Warburger ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Fri 12:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00. Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition, this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $

cHeap eats

Fabryka Frytek ul. Złota 3, www.fabrykafrytek.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $

Bar turecki “efes” ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $

friterie ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813. Open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-2:00. Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $

Queen Burger ul. Hoża 1. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00. A new face over summer, and one joyously received by Warsaw’s burger aficionados. The look screams US roadside diner, but inside it’s all young city style mavens. The choice extends to house specialties such as gringo, teriyaki and femiburger, though our advice to meatheads is to simply stick to the classic cheeseburger: it’s a towering stack of ultra-satisfaction. We’ve experienced nightmarish waiting times, but like WarBurger, that’s just added proof they’re doing something very right. $

Diner 55 ul. Żurawia 32/34. Here’s the sort of alliance we like to see: opening anytime soon, Diner 55 brings together Rico’s Tacos, Mr Pancake and Panburger under one roof. Delaying the launch is a mysterious arson attack which occurred as the previous tenants – Bobby Burger – were preparing to move out. My, what a coincidence! $

CarpaCCio ul. Nowy Świat 36, 22 692 47 26

Classic Italian cuisine: the delicious, honest tastes of a true trattoria

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

Groole ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, www. groole.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Justyna’s Secret Recipes ul. Marszałkowska 138, www.jsecretrecipes. com. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain. Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread. The delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $ Meat Love ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, www.meatlove.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:0022:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. An eco-minded sandwich stop, this intimate

basement has a smart wooden look and friendly staff notable for their daring body art. The home-baked baguettes are the star, and come with a range of organic ingredients complimented with thick cuts of top quality animal. Roast beef, pulled pork and porchetta are just a few of your options. $ Mr Pancake ul. Solec 50, tel. 888 021 888. Lurking amid the side streets of Powiśle, the pancakes here are brilliant and come with a heap of toppings and funny faces traced into them with icing sugar. Who cares if the staff wander around like they’ve just smoked a bong – it’s great. $ Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-4:00. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for

their latest GPS. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, www.chinskapierogarnia. pl. Open 10:00-21:00. A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $ Wurst Kiosk ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. Authentic German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh bread. The currywurst is fabulous, and there’s also Belgian-style fries. $

cuBan

El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open

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RestauRants Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30. Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

fRencH L’Arc ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. An excellent venue, and one whose catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów. $$

gReek & tuRkisH

Paros ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Sofra ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 628 0782. Open 8:00-last guest. On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard, communal table. So the surprise here is the food – Turkish. And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish! It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. And the desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

inDian

geRman Adler ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, www.adlerrestauracja.pl. Open 10:00-23:30; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:30. Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

Bombaj Masala Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. With wide spaces and slick finishes Bombaj Masala takes its inspiration from the gleaming district set outside the windows, not (like most its competitors) from Santa’s Grotto. The food polarizes opinion, though most agree the prices don’t reflect the quality, and that the spices won’t scorch. Consider the look, it doesn't live up to expectations. $$

chmielarnia ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), www.chmielarnia.waw.pl. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef Ram knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774. It’s through happy little tears the Insider declares Curry House as the overall victor in the local curry wars. The eye-watering vindaloo stands apart as Warsaw’s most macho curry, and has been known to provoke spontaneous combustion. The other dishes are equally superb, and with this quality on show it’s easy to overlook the primary design and lunar location. Visit the new Ursynów venture (Al. KEN 47) for a much more aesthetically pleasing experience, and exactly the same food. $ Ganesh ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. To tell the story of Ganesh is to tell the story of what could have been. After a scintillating start which saw it declared one of the best curries ever, Ganesh find themselves trapped in a backward motion, with quality sacrificed in exchange for an aggressive expansion right

Le Cedre 84

Le Cedre 61

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99 lecedre84@lecedre.pl

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

Taste the Exotic

www.lecedre.pl

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

Secado

RestauRants across Poland. Looking chic and dark, it’s arguably one of the best looking Indian restaurants there is. But the food, oh dear. A convention of the New Warsaw Curry Club saw it score a collective 5/10, with particular lowlights including the discovery of a ‘thing’ in the murgh makhanawala – was it bone? A thumbnail? We’re none the wiser. $$ Himalaya Momo ul. Ząbkowska 36. Open Mon-Thur 11:0021:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-22:00. There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor over, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $ Maharaja India ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily,

unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is pretty ok. $$ Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:0021:00. Keen, supersize portions and an efficient home delivery service (indiaexpress.pl) have made this lot something of a bookmark. Not dissimilar from the curries you may have survived on as a student, Mandala are cheap, efficient and really worth checking. $ Namaste India ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104. Open 11:00-22:00. The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, while the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Rain by India Curry ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350. www.rain. pl. Ray Bridgeford, the former owner of the legendary Sense, is the man behind the miraculous resuscitation of India Curry. Fresh contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy aesthetic, but it’s the menu that’s become the talk of the town. Our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in ANY Indian restaurant, but that’s not all… lending this place serious credentials as Warsaw’s best Indian are a feisty vindaloo and initiatives such as the Thursday night Rain Curry Club (zł. 69 for curry, breads and starters), and

their zł. 25 Tiffins lunch deals. $$ Saffron Spices Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol. The murgh makhani is fiercely inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. Nonetheless, we like it – when the chef does get it right, this place scores well. $$

Tandoor ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, www.tandoor.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:30. The legendary Tandoor Palace is dead! From the ashes, rises Tandoor. It’s not just the interiors that have been modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup, a thick warming broth, before moving to the chicken sholay kebab… coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. For mains, the murgh duo is equally artistic and even better in taste. Traditionalists will approve as well: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable chicken tikka butter masala. $$

inteRnational & fusion 4/Czwarte ul. Piaseczynska 71, tel. 22 100 3139, www.4czwarte.pl. Open daily 8:00-23:00. 4/Czwarte sits smack in the middle of Warszawianka’s 29 tennis courts. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it can be rather motivating to eat and drink to the plop of the tennis balls. Chef Kinga Araucz brings a fresh eye to food in Warsaw, and her modern menu combines well with the pleasantly congenial atmosphere and sharp interior. $$ 12 Stolików ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:00-23:00. Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater. The menu is chalked on a board, and while alio olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$

Akademia ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11. Open 12:00-24:00. The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public. But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$ A Nóż ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388. Open 9:0023:00. ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asian-inspired salads, and pizzas are represented and the overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $ Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. See Wilanów section, p. 29 to p. 31.

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RestauRants *

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00- 22:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of parkland. The menu is Mediterranean in style with strong hints of Italian, though how they fare having lost their French chef Luc remains to be seen. $$

Brasserie Warszawska ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423. www. brasseriewarszawska.pl. Open Sun 12:0020:00. A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel are outstanding, but what catches the attention of the ex-pats is the English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel. The Friday fish & chips win emphatic approval. The Sunday roast lacks gravy and consistency, and you

may find yourself asking for extra red wine sauce to moisten the Yorkshire Pudding – but it’s worth the chance; when everything goes right it’s utterly victorious. $$$ Bufet Centralny ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 523 749 160. Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design. The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$

By The Way Bottega Kulinarna ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. 22 692 7239, www.bytheway. com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Everything here looks fantastic – the pared down interiors with their concrete greys and houndstooth touches, and the food. Oh yes, the food. There’s about five mains to hover on, the highlight being the duck breast. The meringue dessert is heaven, as well. $$

Butchery & Wine ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www. butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. The most talked about restaurant of 2011 shows no sign of waning. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach, and commonly considered the best in the city. In the evening, reservations remain recommended. $$

Bydło i Poidło ul. Krucza 16/22. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Filled with rawhide and industrial undertones, this grown-up version of Bydło I Powidło (see Burgers), has its accent on more high-end meats: and by that we mean steaks. Hopefully, they’re an improvement on the ones served by their sister – we’ll be visiting soon to see. $$

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

Concept 13 ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct: five course set lunch menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ Best WaWa 2012 “Restaurant for a Business Meeting” Winner, “Restaurant Design” Winner Chez Belier ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 22 11. Open 12:00-24:00. Designed by Maciej Zień – Poland’s undisputed King of Fashion – Chez Belier looks five star with its immaculate blend of black and white colors, crystal lights and orchids. The menu is a compact affair, and is perfect in every respect: from presentation to taste. Modern and international, the offer numbers a fabulous tuna steak served on a bed of mango salsa. $$$ Der elefant Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, www.derelefant.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. A Titanic-sized restaurant with a disorganized menu that appears to have been devised by throwing darts at a cookbook: Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc. But if the menu is blurry, the cooking isn’t: it’s average/ acceptable to very good. The interiors are a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles, and frequently pack out to the rafters with families and other unwieldy groups. $$ Downtown Restaurant ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don't for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$

Duchnicka Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, duchnickawinebar.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. Michał Budnik, a rising star with a bright future ahead, excels in this loft-style

warehouse. His thrilling menu includes cappuccino soup, and a totally triumphant rack of lamb. $$ Grill & Co ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ Hoża by Mondovino ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Stepping inside, the place feels dark, which is a refreshingly unorthodox sensation in Warsaw – really, when was the last time you saw a new restaurant that wasn’t decorated in the same bright white colors and bleach wood fittings. Having a chef who runs his own meat shop is a blessing, with the meat here coming out absolute trumps. $$ Jasna 24 ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 24 41, www.jasna24. pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. Slick, modern and loungey in look, Jasna 24 has a creative menu that include the use of deliciously unexpected combinations. Roll up on Wednesday’s if you prefer your dinner served with a slice of live music. $$ Jolibord 33 ul. Potocka 33, tel. 690 306 005, www.

jolibord33.pl. Open Mon 12:00-22:00; Tue-Sun 10:00-22:00. There’s a continental climate in Jolibord 33, a place whose name refers to district’s French connection (Żoliborz comes from the French, Joli Bord – or green bank). The menu is more democratic in choice though, with international offerings that stretch from thick Hungarian meat stew to beautiful ricotta pancakes. The causal bistro style has been a hit with the locals. $$

Kaskrut ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, www. facebook.com/dwichlab. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00. Referred to by some as the “poor man’s Atelier Amaro”, this haunt has a high communal seating plan and a hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The chef is known for his trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine. Go there. $$ La Rotisserie ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. That the head chef, Paweł Oszczyk, came within a whisker of pipping Wojciech Amaro in the Best Chef category of our 2012 awards says a lot. And he’s not the only star on the pay roll: there’s

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n a saturated market it’s only the best that standout. That’s certainly the case when one considers Warsaw’s burger battle. Which is why everyone should familiarize themselves with the following name: Ćwierćfunciak. Taste your way through a burger menu that includes a hot habanero, classic cheese, a touch of bacon and the outstanding Madziar. Served along with hand-cut chips and a side of ’slaw, the burgers here are Hall of Fame entries.

Ćwierćfunciak ul. Andersa 30, tel. 606 989 580. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00.

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RestauRants also Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier. Mixing ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences’, Oszczyk’s menu is built for superlatives. The venison is magnificent, and on our visit came served by Poland’s most theatrical waiter – someone, give him a TV show. $$$ Best WaWa 2012 “Hotel Restaurant” Winner Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest. Set with gingham tablecloths, antiques and launderette detritus, Magiel is as charming as they come. But don’t let the café part of the name fool you – the cooking here demands attention. Specializing in eco-minded slow food produce, the ever-rotating menu is fresh, natural and packed with taste. $$ Muu Muu ul. Moliera 8, tel. 661 951 910, www.muumuu.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00. The place is sparky, fun and engaging: small in size, décor comprises of soft colors and light woods, not to mention a bar adorned with blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is meat, and steak appears in a variety of its forms: there’s T-Bone, bison, wagyu, etc. If you’re a vegetarian (or for that matter, a cow), run. New it might be, but there’s a quiet assurance about Muu Muu: the proprietor knows he’s on a good thing, and he very well is. $$ Momu.Gastrobar ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 10001. Open 9:00-

2:00. Tapas-style portions of experimentallooking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. But while it looks good, the Insider found it all very hit and miss… we could be alone on this – we’ve heard good things since, suggesting we visited on an off day. $ Nolita ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita. pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00. A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, we enjoyed Tournedos Rossini: a victorious dish comprised of dainty pink meat, black truffles, foie gras and pureed potatoes served in a cast iron pot. Heaven. And order the sorbet. Dusted with a secret cosmic ingredient, first taste gives an intense fizzy sensation that’s utterly unexpected. One of the top dining rooms in Poland. $$$ nowa kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. See Wilanów section, p. 29 to p. 31.

Piękna 56 ul. Piękna 56, tel. 22 412 0656, www. piekna56. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. The line between restaurants and wine bars is increasingly blurred, and here’s another opening

An Exceptional Butcher shop!!! 100% fresh Polish Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef Quality lamb and veal Seasoned steak: New York, rib-eye, T-bone, filet mignon... We look forward to seeing you!

Oś. Marina Mokotów ul. Przejazd 4 (next to the bank) Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 9:00-14:00 For telephone orders: 797 866 131

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

that greys those boundaries further. Well considered interiors feature a tree (!), nude art and stacks of bottles of wine strategically planted around this warm womb-like space. The menu is light and creative, with the biggest spend being a five star roast beef. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:0020:00. Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean. $$ Porto Praga ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00. Maturing from the murky concept of restobar, Porto Praga have entered a new stage of life: that of a fine dining establishment. The chef’s philosophy is to maintain the natural flavor of ingredients, and the slow food angle is emphasized by magnificent lamb from the Połoniny region. PP are equally proud of their seafood, so visit on Thursday/Friday when their ‘fish market’ menu introduces the likes of monkfish and strawberry grouper. $$ Sowa & Przyjaciele ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152. Open 11:00-23:00. It really looks the part, with warm lighting, soft colors and bare bulbs hanging from overhead cables. The positive impressions are further underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that catches the attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than in his kitchen: with that in mind, we’re happy to report the main man emerging from the kitchen to share backslaps and bear hugs with the regulars who return. $$$

Restauracja 99 Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www. restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:0023:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Rozbrat 20 ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295, www. rozbrat20.pl. Open Mon-Thu 7:30-23:00; Fri 7:30-last guest; Sat 9:00-last guest; Sun 9:00-22:00. Everything a restaurant should be – modern, but not too excessive, as well as traditional at the same time. Elegance emanates from everything and class glints off the silver champagne bowl and tasteful crockery. The menu is a contemporary, international affair, much like the crowd who appreciate it. $$

SAM ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 600 806 084. ,Bistro, bakery, hangout. The cooling concrete interiors

buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$ Signature ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, www. signaturerestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Described by one reader as ‘a Monegasque state of mind at affordable prices,’ Signature is the bottom line in understated luxury: cutlery by Eternum, original Marilyn photos shot by Milton Greene, 1950s Oswald chairs and reliefs dating from the days when this was the inter-war Soviet Embassy. But it’s the food that leaves the final impression. Wojtek Kilian looks set to be Poland’s next big chef, and his cooking is simply extraordinary. The menu stands to change soon, so we’re crossing our fingers that the foie gras duo survives any revisions. All things considered, the prices are a bargain. $$ Solec 44 ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw. pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-

last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Stółdzielnia ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, www. stoldzielnia.pl. Open 13:00-22:00. A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Tamka 43 ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. There is an inspiration here which causes

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RestauRants guests to linger over their meal, explore it and wonder at it. Food isn’t the background; it is the centerpiece. While Robert Trzópek has left the kitchen, he’s been ably replaced by Rafał Hreczaniuk – his menu pitches modern techniques against traditional, primarily root ingredients. It’s wonderful. $$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachzska 1, tel. 400 1122, www.taste.pl. Open 11:30-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. See Wilanów section, p. 29 to p. 31.

U Chłopaków ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710. Open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has winning pierogi and wonderfully thick goulash. $$ Villa Foksal ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00 -23:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00. There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale restaurant whose floor plan and garden have made them a favorite for corporate bashes and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$ Winosfera ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500,

www.winosfera.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00. There have been many reasons to get excited this year, and one of them has been the success of Winosfera. You may think wine is the main talking point here, but actually, it’s the chef: Jakub Admaczyk, an upcoming star who studied his trade in Michelin mainstay The Square. His menu is scintillating: ordering the beef tenderloin is a must, as is the rhubarb parfait. You’ll be happy to pay the heavy handed prices. $$$

Wootwórnia ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 697 259, www.wootwornia.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. The intimate Wootwórnia features a spontaneous menu whose principal consistency is an adherence to the motto of the owners: ‘eat well’. Offering a full urban chillout experience, there’s many reasons to celebrate this menu: homemade pies, breakfasts and substantial mains leaking with goodness. Check out their website to order jarred gems to your home. $

italian

Ave Pizza ul. Topiel 12, te. 22 828 8507. Open 10:0022:00. If you thought Mąka i Woda were good, then here’s the best. The Insider enjoyed its pizza so much we ordered another to take home. And then returned the next day for more. The L-shaped interior is fashionably sparse, and great for casual dates – but expect the conversation to center on the food. $

Bacio ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, www.bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. New look Bacio has been decluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top eats in town. $$ Capri ul. Ostrabramska 75C (Promenada), tel. 22 611 3737, www.restauracjacapri.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. Long and narrow, Capri has a bijou sense of intimacy – which is just as well, you’re on the top floor of a mall. The menu is standard Italian with the only surprise being the occasional lack of food (two desserts were crossed off when we visited). Even so, it’s a cut above all other immediate choices. $$ carpaccio ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 692 4726. The Italian influence looms heavy here: the Italian owner patrols the restaurant floor, while Carmelo, a Sicilian, ensures nothing but excellence exits the wood-fired pizza oven. The quality of the hams is undisputed, as a try of the Parma ham bruschetta immediately proves. $$ Delizia ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce. Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

22:00. The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27. Open 13:00last guest. You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ La Bufala ul. Sienna 86. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ La Tomatina ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick ser-

vice and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. $ Mąka i Woda ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-15:00, 16:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-15:00, 16:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. When Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro pops in with his family you know something is going right. Here the statement piece is a Stefano Ferrara Napoli oven, used to maximum effect to create pizzas which have come to be considered Warsaw’s best. Import ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Caputo flour add to the authenticity, and there’s a medley of other ‘staples from Naples’. $

Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ parmizzano’s Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00. The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo

Mamma Marietta ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071. Open 12:00-22:00. Famed in ex-pat circles, head chef Andrea (formerly of Da Aldo) has created a bright bijou eatery that’s openly regarded as one of the finest and most authentic Italian experiences in Poland. The seafood has a particularly stellar reputation, as does the smattering of Sicilian dishes. $$

Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$

Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 756 3343. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Tucked at the tip of

Superiore ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, www. superiorewinebar.pl. Mon-Sun 12:00-10:00. A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an

A fresh taste of Italy in the heart of Poland

WWW.VAPIANO.PL

Insider_VP.indd 1

UL. Taśmowa 7 TeL: +48 22 356 10 50 warszawa@vapiano.pl

aL. jerozoLimskie 63 (róg z e.PLaTer) TeL: +48 22 852 49 65 warszawa2@vapiano.pl

gaLeria mokoTów UL. wołoska 12 TeL: +48 600 325 883 warszawa3@vapiano.pl

24/10/13 12:26 PM

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RestauRants owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$

Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $

sorbo serpico ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 604 131 721. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. There’s an honest charm to Sorbo Serpico, and it’s contagious: conversation flows as easily as the wine. For mains you’ll find the blush colored steak doesn’t need added flavor, instead utilize the deep, soupy green pepper sauce for the veg. The linguine and shrimps earned similar nods. In a city obsessed with trends, Sorbo is a fine return to basics. $$

Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 & ul. Taśmowa 7, www. vapiano.de/pl. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$

The Olive Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30. Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$

Venti-tre ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. The high class confines of the Hyatt are the home of Venti Tre, a contemporary restaurant with an open kitchen, and a Mediterranean inspired menu constructed using carefully sourced ingredients from local suppliers. The results

Get a delicious turkey in the best butcher shop in Warsaw Turkeys and much, much more available on www.befsztyk.pl or at Puławska 176/178 sklep@befsztyk.pl

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

go beyond hotel standards. $$$

japanese & susHi izumi sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open daily 12:00last guest last guest. Also on Biały Kamień 4. The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Ryż i Ryba ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, www.ryzirybapl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar

ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute. Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ sushi club ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414. Open 12:0023:00. A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave. The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We return for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Marina-Mokotów ul. Warowna 1, tel. 493 0302. Open 12:0022:00. Since its heyday in the 00s sushi has been in decline in Warsaw – well, no-one told Marina-Mokotów, and it’s a good job as well. Completely creative in its offer, this isn’t just another Wa-wa sushi joint. Elaborate rolls are built with forensic precision using the freshest of ingredients. In a place like this, it’s easy to fall in love with sushi all over again. $$ Sushi Zushi ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tekeda Sushi & Wok ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818, www. sushitekeda.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. In an area plagued by tourist rip-offs, Tekeda get it right with a good balance of sushi and wok dishes. The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$ Tomo ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

latin & mexican Aioli ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 1020, www.aioli-cantine.com. Open 9:00-last guest. A jaunty Mediterranean space with hanging hocks of ham and long communal tables. Aioli’s breakfast, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas all seem decent enough, but you can’t help wonder why it’s struck a chord with the public – it’s fine as an evening out, but nothing hugely memorable. $$ Blue Cactus ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Cactus has been around for aeons, but such was its fall from grace people had started referring to in the past tense. Enter new executive chef, Californian Patrick Hanna. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Northern Mexico, It’s not back to its best, it’s better than that. $$

Casa Pablo ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5782. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-18:00. Set to the flank of a glinting office building, Casa Pablo touts an interesting design composed of tartan colors, upturned wine crates and a mirror that we’re told is over a century old. But if you think that’s interesting, then take a look at the menu. Modeled round the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, dishes include scallop carpaccio with foie gras, and a duck breast burger with Mahon cheese, raspberry ketchup and truffle sauce. Servings are small and precise, but even so, we like what we see. $$ Dos Tacos Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www.dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. Adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes, cheerful Dos Tacos belies its office block location. With an increasing amount of American custom, some have even gone as far as to call it Warsaw’s best Mexican. Either way, the burritos are grand and the sauces peerless: beginners should order the salsa set, a great mix that ranges from tasty to volcanic. $ Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767,

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RestauRants www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$

Secado ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Dogged by failed ventures, this prime location has been gagging for a success story – and it’s got one. The food is good, which has to count for something: from light bites like tortillas, to pots of fresh mussels, everything we’ve tried in this Hispanic-themed spot has been culinary gold. Hanging hams come scattered around casual, intimate interiors, and further brownie points are gained for a smoking room that doesn’t choke you as well as hilarious toilets (lads, see if you measure up…). $$ spoco loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447,

www.spocoloco.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Also ul. Francuska 8. Open 12:00-22:00. See Wilanów section, p. 29 to p. 31. The Mexican ul. Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, www.mexican.pl. Everything Mexican food shouldn’t be. There’s zero zing, and no matter what you order anticipate mysterious gloop with lots of mashed cabbage. It’s all such a shame, because with its burbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks like it could be the real deal. Find their latest imposter hawking for custom on Zgoda 6. $$ Warsaw tortilla factory ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 1 2:00-last guest. Hefty portions, freshly made tortillas and salsas that will rattle your brain are the core principles here. But don’t think of WTF as a mere restaurant. This ex-pat haven has it all, from live sports, bands and a party atmosphere that drags long into the night. $$

miDDle easteRn Le Cedre Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

le cedre 84 Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www.lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Deep plum colors work well creating a warm, engaging ambience, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of Lebanese cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates

ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20 www.dawnesmaki.pl

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

before causing a right mess as you share and share alike. It’s that sort of place: a restaurant that promotes social interaction amongst its diverse range of diners. $$ Sokotra ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. Just what you didn’t expect – a restaurant specializing in the food of Yemen. Featuring lots of spicy meat dishes, and a few Indian-style offerings as well, here’s a fantastic spot that arouses curiosity and taste buds alike. The interiors are snug and pleasant, and not short on surprises – e.g. a concrete telephone pole adorned with potted plants. $$

polisH

Akademia Smaku ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 828 9901, www. akademia-smaku.com. pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Something of a side street surprise, Aka-

demia connect contemporary, neutral interiors with a menu that’s best described as modern/international. That might sound vague and anonymous, but the results are anything but. Beautiful presentation and simple, seasonal ingredients combine to make Akademia a high-scoring venue. $$ Ale Gloria Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.amberroom.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00. The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a

majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre molecular interludes (aloe leaves, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. Reservations mandatory. $$$ Best WaWa 2012 “Contemporary Polish” Winner, New Restaurant” Winner, “Best Chef” Winner Bazyliszek Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, www.bazyliszek.waw.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though

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RestauRants it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $ Belvedere Restaurant ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ Biała Gęś ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 490 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Warszawa ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary

though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Chłopskie Jadło pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $

Dawne Smaki ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, www. dawnesmaki.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00. At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till next year just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$

Delicja Polska ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous,

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ folk gospoda ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. Clad in heavy wood furniture, it’s akin to happening on a log mountain cabin. Quaint, cute and charming, Folk Gospoda trades sophistication and other Warsaw values in exchange for a hearty style that recalls village life. The menu, presented by waiters dressed like Zakopane tinkers, is a sturdy affair and promises all the dishes expected of a traditional banquet. Mains are a manly affair (solid, meaty and served in generous portions), while the chłodnik is, says one Polish associate, “the best I’ve ever had”. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Recently voted as one of the 25 most interesting restaurants in the world! And we’re not surprised – bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings, the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing: while Marx and Co. never actually ate

here (as their menu claims), lads like Bruce Willis and Lennox Lewis have. The menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and for dignitaries, and is an experience in itself. $$

bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $

Kameralna ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731. Open 12:0024:00. You want to like Kameralna, and the Insider certainly does – as a brewery. As a restaurant, however, it simply doesn’t work. Stodgy food, small portions, plain tastes: but what do you expect from a restaurant inspired by 50s / 60s commie-era Poland. $

Prasowy ul. Marszałkowska 10/16. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00. Prasowy’s story dates from 1954 when it first opened as a feeding station for the local proletariat. Following a sensitive refit that retained much of its original milk bar spirit, Prasowy returned over summer, and specializes in exactly what it did before: honest, simple food for the everyman. $

Kluska Polska ul. Szpitalna 4, tel. 602 550 786, www. kluskapolska.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. The crazy black and white design has you thinking you’ve stepped into a cartoon cutout, so for the love of God, don’t take any funny little pills before you enter. The menu is simple and traditional, with hefty dumplings the dominant entity. Cheap and cheerful, all the signs suggest a success story in the making. $

Kuchnia Funkcjonalna ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898. Open 11:00-23:00. Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow.$$ Pierrogeria Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 22 743 7644, www.pierrogeria.eu. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. A jolly, busy restaurant that sees it all: from busloads of tourists, to locals who recognize this as the great deal it is. Pierogi are the forte, obviously, though the emphasis on fresh and natural ingredients extends all the way down to the drinks: there’s even Polish ecological wine. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain

Restauracja Pod Gigantami Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Touting a refined, baronial setting, Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces and flickering candles, giving off plenty of classic charm in the best possible taste. With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the BEST WAWA 2012 “Polish top table. $$ with Style” Winner

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 hoza@mondovino.pl Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Smaki Warszawy ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www. smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 7:00-22:00. Wellknown on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the duck in blackberry sauce), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling staff pour amazing lattés and serve up slices of to-die-for pistachio cream cake. $$

U Fukiera Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins

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RestauRants for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Szwejka pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, ul. Wańkowicza 1, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

scanDinaVian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256. Open Mon-Fri: 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:0021:30. The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. Fantastic. $$ Best WaWa 2012 “Most Kid Friendly Restaurant” Winner

specialtY fooD sHops Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl. Operating on Puławska since 1994, the Prokopowicz family have an

uncompromising policy when it comes to their produce: only the best. In the case of Befsztyk that means steaks seasons for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00. Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. Hala Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63. Open Tue-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-17:00. This charming neo-Gothic pile of bricks hosts one of the quaintest little bazaars Warsaw’s ever seen. On the ground floor, there’s a fantastic butcher’s and fruit out back. Upstairs, cold cuts, Greek seafood, cheese, a juice bar and Warsaw’s best cakes. Repeat after me: Warsaw’s best cakes. Heritage ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 9:0022:00. Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:0020:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more. Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory). Open Sat 10:00-15:00. Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however. le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb. little india ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available. marks & spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

krakowski kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www. maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4, tel. 797 866 131. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 9:00-14:00. Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less!

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

PARMIZZANO’S – LITTLE ITALY IN WARSAW 45-minutowy lunch od poniedzia³ku do pi¹tku w godzinach 12:00-15:00 2 dania w cenie 55 PLN, 3 dania w cenie 65 PLN. Codziennie nowe menu. 45-minute lunch from Monday to Friday 12:00 AM-3:00 PM 2 courses at 55 PLN, 3 courses at 65 PLN. New menu everyday.

WARSAW MARRIOTT HOTEL Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 00-697 Warszawa Rezerwacje/Reservations: +48 22 630 5096 www.warsawmarriott.com, www.warsawmarriott.pl

RestauRants namaste india ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Nowy Targ in Nowy Teatr ul. Madalińskiego 10/16. Open Sat 9:0015:00. Since the beginning of April Nowy Targ has been gathering local, small-scale producers, some organically certified, in a huge industrial building in the middle of Mokotów. Nowy Targ offers a plethora of things: from regional products such as oscypek and smoked meats to ready-to-eat fare (coffee, cakes, roasted sausages) to candles made from organic soy wax. ostra kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

papryka-Hungarian store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices. piccola italia & mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, coffee from Florence and olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from Spain and France. Best WaWa 2012 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner polna market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. Find a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butcher, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables, but at a cost.

cooking scHools

Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl. Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Themes from March included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work. Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, www.jospehseeletso.pl. A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself. Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, www.schelleracademy.pl. Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

Our bar oﬀers more than 700 kinds of branded spirits and the longest list of champagnes in Poland. Our chefs oﬀer a wide range of seafood and specialties of Polish cuisine, as well Kobe beef steak or New York style steak! Ignite your senses with tempting food and superior drinks in an exclusive atmosphere. 20% discount with a copy of the Warsaw Insider Open 7 days a week from 4:00 pm till the last guest.

NEW ORLEANS Bar & Restaurant

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

Warszawa, ul. Zgoda 11 tel. +48 600 063 667

www.neworleans.pl info@neworleans.pl

Reviews: Niezłe Ziółko Cafe and Deli 61 / Plus:

* 4 updates

cafés & Wine baRs cafes 61 / wIne bars 64

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

Insider’s Pick

cafés

Bar studio Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 603 300 835. Open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:45. The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions.

Blikle ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who had a fondness for their donuts.

Niezłe Ziółko cafe and Deli ul. krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00.

PhOTOGrAPh By kevIN DeMArIA

fter a dramatic period of openings and closings on krucza the past few years, it seems that the street is slowly holding fast as a culinary mainstay. All within a few blocks, one can enjoy a decent cocktail, good pizza, peruse a meat lovers menu, be part of the foodie scene, savor a delicious Pad Thai, indulge your sweet tooth and even dive into a milk bar (granted, not in one day). One new place to add to this rue da flava is quite a different take on the cafes you see scattered around Warsaw with their cool logos and smart interior design. While it appeals to the fashionistas and hipster crowd, there is no need to have that feeling of self-doubt when crossing the threshold. Quite the opposite, in fact, which is a testament to the people of Niezłe Ziółko. Translated literally, the name Niezłe Ziółko means “herb fair”, but as an idiom in Polish it means something along the lines of “aren’t you clever”. Both meanings make sense as the store display pots of herbs (and fresh flowers as well) to pleasure the aromatic senses, while the actual concept of the cafe is pretty smartypants and all: it’s a shrine to pure and healthy eating. While the same lunch special might not be running by the time you read this, the zł. 15 made-on-the-day quiche and soup became an October favorite of mine. Besides the deals, the salads, cakes (made without sugar) and smoothies make it worth tracking down. And not only do they brew a good cup of Joe, but they produce their own yogurt and bake their own bread. Once inside, sit in the loft to look down on the shoppers scurrying from Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out “grandma’s cupboard” in the corner. Fill the gap between trips to Niezłe Ziółko by stocking up on jams, spreads and olive oils for home. (kD)

Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff. Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Puławska 24, www.bulkeprzezbibulke. pl. Open 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00. There’s definitely a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. café 6/12 ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00.

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cafés & WiNe Bars Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team. café iluzja ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, www. cafeiluzja.pl. Open 11:00-22:00. Bathed in white and black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black and white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a socialist era cinema. cafe colombia ul. krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Filled with bright, primary colors and plenty of armchairs, this two level cafe follows a simple formula. Downstairs, it’s Colombia’s finest (coffee), upstairs it’s cocktails – and very tasty they are. And just to make sure they’ve got all hours covered, there’s food to enjoy either side of your beverages: barramundi, flame-grilled Argie steak etc. café Galeria sztuki ul. Ząbkowska 13, tel. 22 619 8109, www. caffee.stanowski.pl. Open 9:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. Located in a restored tenement, Sztuki is defined by raw brick, whitewashed walls and antique furniture… with price tags attached. yes, if you like the chair you’re sitting on, feel free to buy it. The summery iced lattes are divine.

Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is available, and while it’s best enjoyed on the seasonal terrace, the interiors have an atmosphere all of their own. christian’s Bakerhouse ul. książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00. A top quality bakery/café/restaurant owned by celebrity chef krystian Zalejski. Fixed up in rustic style, the ever changing menu round at Christian’s is mostly filled with Italian staples – but with a twist. Think pappardelle with roasted duck slices and rosemary. coffee Karma pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace. croque Madame ul. Nowy Świat 41, tel. 793 794 318. Open 8:00-22:00. A French-themed charmer with rough, white painted brickwork, distressed wooden furniture and lots of eccentric bric-abrac to keep an eye out for. Dealing out fresh baguettes and pastries, the whole boulangerie/café concept is excellently executed. Dziurka od Klucza ul. radna 22 881 8677. Open Mon-Sun 12:0021:00. Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair.

café Lorentz Al. Jerozolimskie 3. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks. As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy.

fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21. Open 10:00-22:00. An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”. you bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are even better though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

cava ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59, www.cava.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe.

filtry café ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 798 409 356, www.filtrycafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00. Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky atmosphere that attracts art lovers.

WarsaW InsIder | nOVeMber 2013

francuska 30 ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00. An attractive modern cafe whose primary talking point is the terrace: a colorful affair shaded by dozens of umbrellas dangling from above. Kafka café ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net. Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience. Koszyki ul. koszykowa 63. Open Tue-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-17:00. Not just Warsaw’s best urban market, but also a very decent café. Set in the ceramic tiled entrance of hala koszyki, there’s some fabulous food squiggled on the blackboard, and that definitely includes the boeuf bourgignon. Find a raw juice stand and fruit and fish stalls in the sunny yard/ruin behind. La Lush ul. Senatorska 24. Open Mon-Fri 6:00-18:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-18:00. Lovely bread-based fare, homemade marmalades and coffee beans roasted just for them: La Lush is already something of a favorite. It closes early by Warsaw’s standards, but the times prove quite sufficient considering the menu

La scarpetta ul. Marszałkowska 68/70 (enter from Skorupki), tel. 602 309 391. Open 10:0021:00. An inviting Italian-style café with warming woods, autumnal colors and a blackboard menu that diverts away from the cliché. Standard pasta dishes are ignored in favor of bruchetta and pidine sandwiches.

La Vanille ul. krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In

much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. Le chocolat ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 22 745 1071, www.lechocolat.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. This chic emporium is the realisation of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan. Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds. Limoni canteri 1952 ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open 8:00-22:00. Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil. Magiel café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards. Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote. blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun. Między Nami ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00;

Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior. Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact Mk opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award. Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. MiTo ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www. mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel.

and stripped wood floors, it’s an ideal spot for a lazy weekend – few places in Warsaw feel so naturally continental. The food, it needs to be said, is very good indeed, with hefty steaks, multiple burgers combinations and some fine desserts. Przystanek MDM ul. Waryńskiego 9/1, tel. 509 031 062. Open 7:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00. A retro themed café with its feet firmly planted in the 50s – check out the gaudy PrL armchairs and the giant black and white of pl. konstytucji. The range of unfiltered local beers makes it that bit more than just a café.

HARD ROCK CAFE WARSAW IS NOW SERVING BREAKFASTS

my’o’my ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), www.myomy.pl. Open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor. The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic. Om Nom Nom ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 10:00-23:00. Looking clean, clinical but strangely warming, Om Nom Nom specialize in their own ice cream lollies: all in cutesy designs and dipped in crunchy colorful toppings. The beer is just as good, with independent Polish brewers well represented. Piaskownica ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 9:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. During daylight it’s a coffee bar; come nightfall beer becomes the choice of the people. Popular with college kids, find announcements like ‘Tofu Attack’ chalked on the blackboards. Prosta Historia ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. Informal looking with its clean white finishes

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cafés & WiNe Bars Relaks ul. Puławska 48. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Delete Starbucks from memory: if you take your coffee seriously, then no-one does it better than this lot. Using a number of brewing methods, the baristas here are top of their trade, doing their stuff in a cool interior with a heavy retro accent.

as one of the top addresses in Warsaw is the launch of their ground floor wine bar. Designed by London-based Anita rosato, the venue is the bottom line in luxury: here it’s all polished nickel and marbled surfaces. Completing this picture of elegance is a wine selection handpicked by robert Mielżyński – a Polish/Canadian wine buff, and one of the most renowned importers in the country.

secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. you might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest. It’s a winner!

cabernet ul. Woronicza 31, tel. 22 115 13 04, www.cabernet.net.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:0022:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Warsaw’s appetite for the grape shows no sign of abating. The latest wine bar to hit the market has a warehouse look, a strong menu – with surprisingly modest prices – and a drinks selection of approximately 150 wines: most of which are available by the glass.

socjal ul. Foksal 18, tel. 601 318 966. Open 9:00-4:00. Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. There’s few better places to order the Prosecco and act oh so continental. Wars i sawa ul. Dobra 14/16. Open Mon-Thu 10:0022:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

WiNe Bars

ale Wino! ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar robert kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishings by the celebrated design brains at Studio rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special.

Bristol Wine Bar ul. krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. Open 12:00-23:00. Signaling the Bristol’s rebirth

charlotte pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar. Hoża by Mondovino ul. hoża 25, tel. 603 778 275. Successfully establishing themselves over summer, you’ll probably know hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentine cooking of Martin Gimenez Castro is a wine list particularly dense with reds. They’re the personal selection of actor / owner Tomasz Budyta, a successful wine importer for the last 23 years.

Jung & Lecker ul. emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, rheinhessen, rheingau and Mosel regions.

WarsaW InsIder | nOVeMber 2013

Heritage ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues with the appearance of heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled floors, and simple, well-thought interiors. With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an ascendant new money crowd. Mielżyński Wine Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). retaining a fiercely loyal customer base, some argue it’s the best wine bar in Warsaw, others that it’s the best in Poland. Combining old and new world wines this pared-down warehouse is filled to bursting with crates and boxes, thought the best aspect is the verdant green square it’s centered around. Sitting outside, you ask yourself, “Am I really in Warsaw?” WinKolekcja ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, www.winkolekcja.pl. Open 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00. you can’t pick your neighbors... In Winkolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options. Winosfera ul. Chłodna 29/31. Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection. Opened in Feb, it’s already become a much used Insider hangout. Żurawina ul. Żurawia 32, tel. 696 561 652. Open 12:00-24:00. Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve already won a staunchly loyal following. Get your week off to a galloping start and visit on ‘Jazz Monday’s’. you’ll be joining the most beautiful people in the city.

Reviews: Przychodnia 65 / Plus:

* 3 updates

nightlife

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

bars & Pubs 65 / clubs 68 / gentleman’s clubs 70 / jazz clubs 70 / shot bars 70

Insider’s Pick

bars & Pubs beirut ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

the British Bulldog ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. How fickle this city can be. The big fail of 2012. Forget that it’s the most accurate replica of a traditional British pub around, and consider instead the heinous service, fried aromas and a deserved ex-pat boycott traced to the dismissal of the original British manager.

Przychodnia ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 827 8356. Open 12:00-24:00.

PHOTOgrAPH BY KEVIN DEMArIA

hot therapy? Step in, for that’s what’s on offer in Warsaw’s strangest launch for quite some time. While theme bars are the rage in Asia (Hitler and toilets figure highly among other inappropriate motifs), in Poland they’ve never really taken off – and that’s fine with me. I like my pubs to have a pub theme: craft beer, a come-hither barmaid, and no scatological atrocities waiting in the gents. I don’t like complicated bars, the right change and the big match on TV really is enough. But this is 2013 and, apparently, drinkers need to be entertained. I can’t think of any other reason why anyone would open a hospital-themed bar, for that is what Warsaw has given birth to. And in the shape of Przychodnia, we don’t have a bar modeled on the Medicover chateau in Wilanów, but a bar themed on the grim hospitals from communism… There was a time when I’d end up in hospital pretty much every other Saturday with some serves-you-right wound. I’ve edged past that stage in life, so Przychodnia gives me flashbacks. But even though I didn’t want to like it, there are things I found I did. You’ve got to hand it to them, the interiors are marvelous: operating theater lights, surgical utensils and fun murals to a background of clinic white colors. Even a cantankerous curmudgeon like I can see the humor. And then there’s the smoking room which is kitted out to look like a toilet (you wonder about the wisdom of pairing drunk people with something that looks like a toilet but actually isn’t…). In fact, the most normal room of all is, in actuality, the toilet. Unfortunately, it was empty, thwarting my plans to pound on doors shrieking ‘it’s an emergency’. The food is excellent, considering the price – I ate meatballs and white sausage and was left both pleased and surprised. Drinks, though, receive mixed scores. Try the shots, served in test tubes by lab-coated staff. Don’t try the beer. It’s Żywiec & Co. here, rotten lager that might leave you requiring a real hospital. All in all though, I liked it, and I think most people will. Unfortunately, by their very nature novelties are capricious – they wear off, and usually quite fast. So far they’ve got a cool, fun crowd. But will they be here in three years? (AW)

browar de brasil ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s succesfull, but that doesn’t make it special. Find four house brews, none of which impress, served by waitresses in tight, flirty outfits that reveal all their foibles. Don’t expect kind words about the food, either – amateurish at best, inedible at worst. bufet Centralny ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00. An artsy carpentered bar, white wall tiles and trendy draftsman desk lamps lend the severe looking Bufet Centralny no shortage of style, and instinct suggests it’ll continue to serve as one of Warsaw’s more happening bars for some time to come. But the service and customers do think highly of themselves, points outsiders might find obnoxious. Chmielarnia ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), www.chmielarnia.waw.pl. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A subterranean space that can get loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky. Featuring a ‘tomb’ of mainstream beers, Chmielarnia may look a little basic, but it’s

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NiGHTLiFE definitely the real deal. A peerless selection of craft beer sees 40 lagers rotated on 15 taps, and even more rare finds in the fridge: among them BrewDog, Lindemanns, and of course a comprehensive choice of experimental Polish brews. Look out for stocks of Thistly Cross.

Dubrovnik ul. Nowogrodzka 22, tel. 885 835 885, www.dubrovnik.waw.pl. Yes, Dubrovnik is a restaurant. And yes, it’s a restaurant that doesn’t promise much – set with woodsy features and mock-rustic details, it looks cheap and tacky and one to avoid. But guess Coctail Bar Max what, it’s one of the first tankovy pubs in ul. Krucza 16/22, www.barmax.pl. Can you Poland! A Czech innovation, the storing trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the system preserves the beers freshness, and word? In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With even takes away the usual gassy, belchy taste its light wood touches and fruity montages Max of Tyskie. looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00. Checkstuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails ered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic picare the main affair though, and here they’re tures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. extravagant affairs that resemble a tropical The guys look like Bond villains and the gals jungle in miniature form. The only problem? By their very nature, cocktails aren’t concocted just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, is like Death by a Thousand Cuts. it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and . BEST WAWA let the night take its course. Cuda Na Kiju 2012 “Cocktails” Winner ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106. Open 9:00-last guest. Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution Gorązcka Złota started here! Marketed at normal people – ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855. Open Mon-Fri not just hipsters, for a change – this sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that comes 12:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00. Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even slanting through the four glass walls. Could if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little it be too basic? No – anything else would pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little detract from the main attraction: the beer. more than varnished wood and hundreds of About 15 taps dispense regional brews, cult beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret indy productions as well as quirky imports of their success is down to the beer. Stocking from Czech, Belgium and beyond. a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open Tues- this unfashionable bar has an underlying Thurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00. honesty that makes it a success. Set in one of those towers that props up Most Haka Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim ul. Bracka 20. Open Mon-Weds 10:00-24:00; – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish Thu-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.Creating glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and a huge buzz in July, newly-opened Haka the reason for that soon becomes apparent: combines the talents of its three owners to everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers maximum effect. Kiwi Shane has created an to pick from, and they do more than enough inventive, modern menu that reinvents the to distract from the rattle and rumble of term bar food, while Irishman Kevin ensures overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. smooth running of the bar. Final glue is Czeska Piviarnia provided by Kasia, a glamorous wine buff ul. Ks. J. Popiełuszki 19/21, tel. 730 855 566. with an attention for detail. An intimate space Open Sun-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat clad in brickwork and metal, it’s a positively 16:00-2:00. Warsaw’s realization that there international effort where Perła and Baltika is beer beyond Żywiec is in evidence with the beer sit comfortably next to Prosecco and creation of this haunt. Seven Czech beers are modern British breakfasts and tandoori rotated on the taps, and several dozen more chicken wraps. sit in bottles in the fridge. While the design doesn’t go far beyond tables and chairs, it’s Hydrozagadka a sign city center trends are penetrating the ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, suburbs. If you’re Żoliborz-based, then it’s www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open Mona must. Thur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in

WarsaW InsIder | NOVEMBER 2013

an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different. Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism. Karmnik ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw. Kraken Rum Bar ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-4:00. Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodsy Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though. Kufle i Kapsle ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218. Open 16:00-24:00. Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage. Kwadrat ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Chilled out and downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair. There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason. Legends ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically

English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Małe Piwo ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest. Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/raspberry hint M3. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps. OSP Saka Kępa ul. Walecznych 74. Open 14:30-last guest. A little on the small side, the interior features several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks (it’s in a fully functioning fire station!). A decent beer selection cools down neighborhood drinkers, not to mention decent bites which include a refreshing melon chłodnik. Panorama bar and Lounge Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling. Paradox ul. Anielewicza 2, www.paradox-cafe. pl. Open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00. Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. Parking bar ul. Nowogrodzka 27. Open Sun-Thu 17:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-6:00. It looks raw and ready, but then what did you expect

from a place on the ground floor of a car park. Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on the weekend club nights. Paparazzi ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door. Pardon To Tu Pl. grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest. Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks. Pies Czy suka ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest. Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Pijalnia Whisky ul. Zgoda 6, tel. 664 321 645, www.pijalniawhisky.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Effecting the air of a London gents club, Pijalnia Whisky has a grand, important air and a smart design backed up with whisky casks sat behind glass petitions. Definitely one for the collar and cufflinks crowd, the choice of single malts impresses.

Piw Paw ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500. Open 11:00-1:00. Dubbing themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap bar’, Piw Paw have an armory of 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem? Designed more for carry-out custom, it’s an ambitious project though one

that doesn’t feel entirely thought out. And in spite of the offer, it’s nothing more exciting than the other multi-tap choices. A good start point, nonetheless. Plan b ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Bottled then packaged in Plan B (pl. Zbawiciela) is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. Po Drugiej stronie Lustra ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. 501 048 471. Open 12:00-last guest. A collective groan was issued when their premises on Ząbkowska closed, so it’s three cheers to learn they’re back at a new address. Looking more sanitized than the shabby original, the standout feature of this dark-looking, brick-ceilinged haunt is what ranks as Warsaw’s best collection of craft beers. Pure Sky Club ul. Złota 59 (Skylight Tower), tel. 22 250 1111, www.pureskyclub.com. Slotted on the top floor of the 22-storey Sky Tower, Pure Sky Club offers a slice of the high life (literally and otherwise) to high society looking to mix business with pleasure inside this ‘private club’ – this is where the Top Gear lads went for their after show party. Friday is the highlight though, with their weekly London Calling event drawing dressy ex-pats looking for live entertainment. For membership, check their web. rain by india Curry ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.rain. pl. What was a standard Indian restaurant has been reinvented as both a slick ‘modern Indian’ eatery and… a bar! There’s Perła on tap, and the best time to sample it is their ‘Piątek, Pakora and Perła’ happy hour: zł. 8 for a beer and pakora from 16:30 to 18:30. But the real point is made by the cocktails. They’re concocted by Konrad, a gifted mixologist whose specialties include the house signature: Frozen rain. You won’t stop at one. Równonoc ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 787 982 242. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-5:00. Inside, some might feel they’re walking into a headache. The shapes and colors clash

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NiGHTLiFE uncomfortably against each other: azure, tangerine and motorway grey. Slowly though, you get to like it. Long and narrow and with a mezzanine on top, it’s a fun operation full of youth-ish energy. Importantly, it doesn’t take itself seriously as anything other than a fun, little haunt.

retro chic while at the same time providing a genuinely unique drinking experience. Aimed at a more mature, affluent crowd than their sister bar (Warszawa PKP Powiśle), the standout factor is a whisky menu divided up into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan. bEsT WaWa 2012 “New Bar” Winner

sketch ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch.pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. The most global choice of beer in Warsaw, with international prices to match. The white minimalist interiors get busy with a cool crowd of urban sophisticates.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. This is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

spiskowcy rozkoszy ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Mon-Thur 16:0024:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00. The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Warszawa Powiśle ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure earlier in the year. Not just a bar, they’re now filling a dual role as Warsaw’s one billionth burger joint.

spotkanie ze szpiegiem ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit. Świetlica ul. Marszalkowska 17. Open 12:00-last guest. Described by one Insider as a ‘Bukowski bar’, this dark dive features dusty, yellowing comics and wobbly lampshades amid all the raw brickwork and battleship colors. Once your eyes accustom to the (lack of) light, you’ll note other details: random outbreaks of origami, a set of DJ decks lumped in a corner (find the music schedule tipp-ex’ed on the window), and a decent selection of Czech origin beers. syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www. syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Housed in a 70s monster this two floor bar maintains its element of

CLubs 1500m2 ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-till-dawn electro events.

DeLite ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored. Element ul. Jasna 1, tel. 22 692 4242, www. elementclub.pl. Open Thu-Sat 22:00-6:00. With door control negotiated, clubbers slip downstairs into a blue-lit labyrinth heaving with slick, polished finishes and a thumping sound system. Marketed at the higher end of the clubbing world, there’s no shortage of

WarsaW InsIder | noVember 2013

temptresses gyrating around in a dense cloud of perfume. Enklawa ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:00-4:00. Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost. The Eve Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room. Foksal XViii ul. Foksal 18. Open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00. Composed using chandeliers, bricks and velvet this classy space has gone head to head with The Eve as Warsaw’s flashest venue: breathe deep and smell the money. Klubokawiarnia ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin. Luzztro Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a nefarious reputation as something of a dodgy den of illicit pharmaceuticals and libertine behavior. Looking grim and grotty, this after party legend gets going at about 4 a.m. when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the final touches to their zonked out stare. For the full tilt, teeth rattling electro experience it’s pretty hard to beat. Opera Club Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of

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NiGHTLiFE passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine. Platinium ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:006:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs right, but you will find Mr/Mrs right for Now. bEsT WaWa 2012 “rich & Pretty Club” Winner Powiększenie ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 503 118 088. Open 11:00-last guest. From the same team behind Plan B; larger in size, the downstairs hosts cool international and domestic acts. sen Pszczoły ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, www.senpszczoly.pl. Open Tue-Wed 18:00-2:00; Thu-Sat 18:005:00; Sun 18:00-2:00. A dive club of legend. With the original turned to ashes (literally, it burnt down earlier in the year), the owners could have been forgiven for calling it a day. They haven’t. Instead they’ve reopened in Koneser, and unleashed Warsaw’s most surreal interior in the process: amid the heavy industrial background expect bunk bed frames, a dentist’s chair and no shortage of neon painted weirdness. Concerts are

a mixed bag, and range from didgeridoo performances to inter-war songs to full-on techno that rattles the ribcage. someplace Else Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. The flagship bar of the Sheraton is familiar ground to most ex-pats. With a look that says urban/industrial, it’s one of the more unique hotel bars out there, a point underlined by a live music schedule that’s still considered one of the best there is. sztuki & sztuczki ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 468 00 00, www.sztukisztucki.pl. Open Mon-Tue 13:00-22:00; Wed-Thu 13:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 13:00-4:00. Ducking into a basement, the look is pure Kraków cool: covert corners and vaulted brick ceilings. Already established as one the top spots for alternative live music, find a high voltage atmosphere and a drinks list that’s lauded and applauded: Baczewski vodka to Svyturys beer.

GENTLEMaN’s CLubs Coyote ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.coyotebar.eu. Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and then a larger room with more intimate acts of friendship taking place behind the curtain.

Shot Bars afera na szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 509 777 797. Open 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 24hrs. Looking light and bright this place appeals to more than just hardened alcoholics – a point proved by spot-on food home cooked by the owner’s mum. It’s young, fun and lively in swagger. Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21. Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PrL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to the chains of bog paper.

Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19. Open 24hrs. Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports. Warszawska Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240. Open 24hrs. When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar, and it is a good spot to watch the latest rainbow fire.

WarsaW InsIder | noVember 2013

Libido ul. Kredytowa 9, www.libidoklub.pl. It’s practically round the corner from the Zachęta gallery, though you’ll probably enjoy the masterpieces here more. run by the same team behind Sofia, this three floor mega club makes use of a location just up from Warsaw’s favorite upmarket party street: Mazowiecka. New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00. High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here… Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.com.pl. Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, russians and Ukrainians.

jaZZ

Bistro na Pięknej ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, www.jazzone.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00. A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts. jazzarium ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 601 327 634. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last gues; Sat 18:00-last guest. Owned by Mariusz Adamiak, Jazzarium is certainly the most serious of Warsaw’s jazz venues, with a reportoire that reflects the proprietor’s standing in the music biz. What looks like a pretty ordinary cafe, transforms the moment there’s a concert. Nu Nu Nu ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989. Open 10:00-24:00. For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd.

Reviews: Velt 71

shopping

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

accessorIes 73 / fashIon 72 / home decor 74 / shoPPIng malls 74

“ For collectors of beauty, Velt is a real gift”

Insider’s Pick

have 40 years’ experience in the glassware trade. Maria kindly showed me the store, an Aladdin’s Cave that sparkles with their creations. The Leda lamp, designed by their son Jeremi, won an honorable mention in the prestigious Red Dot design awards in 2012, and is just one of a number of items I’ve headhunted for future. While also contemporary, there’s a whole range of items – awesomely crude in aesthetic – that look like they could have been discovered in the decrepit cellars of this pre-war building. In an added charming quirk, they have poems etched on them by Leszek: “I stand on one leg,” reads one, “but I can unbalance your two.” How beautiful. (KD)

photographs by Kevin Demaria

arsaw’s seen a surge in name-brand design stores, and a growing number of them blur the lines between old and new: i.e., while their craft is old, the execution is contemporary. And though there’s nothing wrong in decorating your crib with on-trend designers, what sets Velt’s products apart is their unique and expressive style – for collectors of beauty, Velt is a real gift...

And where better to have a shop in which old and new coexist than Próżna street, where the exposed skeletons of Warsaw’s pre-war walk-ups stare across at lavishly restored real estate. I first became aware of Velt after noticing their window display down in Metro Centrum; I was a little leery of such elegant lamps and vases being placed next to a kick line of women’s stockings, but the clear bell shaped lamp with red trim aroused my curiosity. Who were these people? After checking online, I found this glasswork firm was affiliated with Café

Próżna, a place I must have passed over a hundred times. Approaching it, a Polish language sign suggests ‘Look For Me in the Café’ – it’s hard not to be intrigued by such eccentricity. Stepping inside, I saw the barista interrupting a couple on cell phones in a way that I felt suggested a real familiarity. I came to know the barista is Jeremi Nagrabecki, who aside from running the café also owns the gallery. He represents the younger generation of the operation, working on the glass alongside his parents, Maria VeltuzenNagrabecka and Leszek Nagrabecki, who

Velt ul. Próżna 12, www.velt.pl.

2K hanging lamps

Etched handblown glasses

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shoPPinG Fashion

american Eagle outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 665 625 718, facebook. com/AmericanEaglePoland. Open MonSat10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style. ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 609 888 363, www.bizuu. pl. A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season. Blind Cafe Concept store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00. This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix. Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 - bright colours, florals, platform heels and wedges. Designer secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags

that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Eleven* ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 794 347 928, www.be-eleven. pl. Open Mon-Fri 11.00-19.00; Sat 11.00-16.00 (shopping by appointment also available). Find clothing, accessories and jewelry from a carefully selected portfolio that combines up-and-coming international brands such as Sandwich and Joseph Ribkoff with the best of Poland’s flourishing fashion scene. And what better way to contemplate this eclectic mix than with a glass of wine. Ermenegildo Zegna Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, www. zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the well-dressed man, from suits to belts, and sportswear. Frank a ul. Natolińska 3. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00. The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch. Gosia Baczyńska (Praga) ul. Floriańska 6, tel. 516 133 507, www.gosiabaczynska.com.pl. This elegant boutique on the other side of the river features gorgeous, unique designer pieces. Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one. L’aura ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the

WarsaW InsIder | noVemBer 2013

city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Likus Concept store Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Loding shoes and shirts ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man. Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www.loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Everything the businessman requires: suits, shirts, shoes and cigars. Impeccable tri-lingual service in a top location. In July you can enjoy a summer clearance with 70% off. Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom. Marks & spencer DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer. com.pl. Open: Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. The popular British brand’s new Warsaw store sells menswear, womenswear and children’s clothing, as well as various beauty products, groceries, wines and spirits. This is its newest and largest store in Poland to date. Max Mara ul. Nowy Świat 1. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Poland’s first Max Mara mega store, with interior designed by Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Find all the latest from Max Mara Runway and the Max Mara Atelier coat collection, as well as Sportmax Runway and a growing range of in-house accessories.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@ moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain. Mokobelle ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance from Mokotowska 54), tel. 508 010 204. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. An eclectic collection of Polish jewelry, along with pieces from worldclass names like Rodrigo Otazu. Muji Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store. Pinko ul. Bracka 2, tel. 22 628 5048; Promenada shopping centre, www.pinko.it. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@ plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace. QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48 (courtyard), tel. 690 021 787, www.robertkupisz.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00. One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a trib-

ute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie. Redford and Grant Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Rs1 ul. Koszykowa 1, www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. RS1 is the continuation of the Guerilla Store concept founded by Robert Serek. This is the place to go for fashion-forward items from Comme Des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, sunglasses by Linda Farrow for Raf Simons and Bernhard Wilhelm, as well as cool trainers from designer Puma collections. sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 887 1056. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. schumacher ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 621 9950. This boutique sells über-chic clothing from the Schumacher line in a pristine, minimalist setting and comfortable fitting and lounge area snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www.snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. Teresa Rosati (sadyba) tel. 609 433-343, www.teresarosati.com.pl, email: teresarosati@op.pl. Elegant cocktail

dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s best-known designers. Ready-to-wear and custom-made services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

aCCEssoRiEs Bagatt ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances. Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with durability make them a perenial favorite. Chiara Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814. You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. Church’s Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. Dada ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 602 173 717, www.galeriadada.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00–19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. It’s a bit hard to define exactly what Dada sells – (from jewellery to lamps, tunics and kitchen appliances) – but one thing is for sure: you won’t find any of it anywhere else.

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shoPPinG Pracownia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, tel. 622 12 12, www.pracowniaczasu.pl. Luxury watches from brands like Corum, Vulcain, Ulysee Nardin, Magellan and Fortis.

Frey Wille ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

Rodrigo de la Garza ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it. Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel. 22 403 2300. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

secret Life (of Things) ul. Polna 18/20, tel. 22 412 4811, www.secretlife.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

hos&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63. com. Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. impossible Project ul. Mysia 3. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula. Kate & Kate ul. Wspólna 50A/20, tel. 501 021 841, www.kateandkate.pl Open Mon-Fri 13:0019:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 This shop is so tucked away, you’d never find it without heads up from a friend. But once you do, be prepared to enter a world of brilliant accessories. Lewanowicz Cafe & Boutique Pl. Grzybowski 10, tel. 22 650 0590, www. lewanowicz.com. Lewanowicz’s original house collection of precious and semiprecious stones is supplemented by several other designer ranges, including the Ayalabr line from Israel. Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, www.lilou.pl. Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for

all Warsaw fashionista.

Elf Joy by Kasia Kucharska (by appt) tel. 792 793 729, www.elfjoy.com. Kasia Kucharska travels all over the world to find stones that she turns into brilliant hand-made pieces of semi-precious stones, including amethyst, tourmaline and garnett. Available by special order.

see Me Boutique ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 0404. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Major pieces from American and European designers, including Paul & Joe, as well as the Elizabeth and James line from the Olsen twins. Take a nap ul. Mysia 3. This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

Victoria’s secret Beauty & accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage,

WarsaW InsIder | noVemBer 2013

passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

shoPPinG MaLLs arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 Galeria KEn Center/E. Leclerc ul. Ciszewskiego 15. Open Mon-Thurs 9:0021:30; Fri 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers. Targówek ul. Głębocka 15, www.chtargowek.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc… Wola Park ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, www.wolapark.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

Reviews: Gym Generation 75

childRen

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

activities 75 /cafes 78 / education 76 / shops 78

insider’s pick

activities Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, www.barwymuzyki.pl. This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

copernicus science centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl. A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie), tel. 502 092 695, www.gymgeneration.pl

PHOTOGrAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BurrOWS

guess it was my generation that made going to the gym ‘cool’. Yet nightmares of florescent leg warmers and feeble attempts to jog on a treadmill, whilst my chunky Sony Walkman dragged my jogging pants southward, is probably why I have never understood the addiction to working up a sweat in a room full of strangers. But I do accept physical activity has huge benefits to our well-being, thus the sooner we nurture our offspring with a healthy respect for their body the more chance they will grow into people with healthy minds and habits. This is the philosophy of Gym Generation; two mums have put their heart, soul and many hours into realizing their dream of giving families a lifestyle choice. Gym Generation (age 4 months to 12 years) focuses on developing skills in coordination, flexibility and strength along with confidence, teamwork and patience. And to meet this end, they have employed three athletically trained professionals who have bounds of energy to take on the challenge of ‘unplugging’ the new generation and getting them on their feet. I took my bookworm of a daughter along for the free trial lesson. Much to my surprise, unlike the frown I get on school PE day, she absolutely loved it and was returned to me an hour later with a glow of adrenaline and one healthy appetite. Her favorite exercise was swinging 360 on the bar and walking the beam. She slept better than ever that night. If you’re dreading dark winter afternoons stuck indoors with cranky children climbing walls, or just concerned your child is turning into a computer junkie or, worse still, the TV couch potato, then stretch your limbs and sprint towards Gym Generation. This colourful and light space, located at the Olympic Centre, is also home to the Museum of Sport and full of trophies, and is unrivalled in the city and guaranteed to ignite a passion for sport. Not only is there plenty of parking and an expertly organized schedule of classes, but they offer tailor-made birthday parties – all while parents sip free coffee whilst enjoying a peerless view of the city’s skyline… (GBB)

colourstrings Music school (Barwy Muzyki) ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 1827, www. barwymuzyki.pl. The philosophy is simple: add fun to learning and create an environment where music, singing and instruments are accepted as part of the daily lifestyle. Following music sheets transformed into colorful characters, children are encouraged to experiment with instruments and song as they would with their toys. cukier Lukier ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. 605 660 005. Open: 11:00-13:00, 15:00-17:00. Confectionary making courses and displays that attract kids of ALL ages. Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, www.fryzjerkowo.pl. This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English. Advance booking recommended. Fundacja atelier ul. Foksal 11, www.atelier.org.pl. Situated

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cHiLdren in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/ flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/ drawing/sculpture/art history) for children, young people and adults. HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, www.hulakula.com.pl. Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools. Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu. Little chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-and-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information. Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well. Manufatura cukierów ul. Tamka 49, www.manufaktura-cukierkow. pl. Sweet making courses in a confectionary factory! Lessons are conducted in Polish, though enthusiasm is more important than a mastery of the language. Mums & tots www.mumsandtots.com. A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web Patataj ul. Krótka 9, www.patataj.com. Patataj offer riding lessons and pony trekking in a scenic location 25 mins from Warsaw. Polish is the mother tongue here, but actions speak louder than words where riding is concerned. Finish the day in the karczma. teatr Guliwer ul. różana 16, www.teatrguliwer.waw.pl. Well worth a visit, even for non-Polish speakers. An exciting colorful premises with

creative costumes make this the choice place to introduce the kids to theater.

the canadian school of Warsaw – Preschool school unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 600 237 878 / 697 979 100, preschool@ canadian-school.pl. The preschool branch of The Canadian School of Warsaw offers a bilingual environment based on the International Baccalaureate Program PYP for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away from Ogródek Jordanowski. All children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

teatr Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), www.teatrlalka. waw.pl. This puppet theatre stages a variation of productions suitable for children aged 3 +. Scenery, props and costume design are impressive but Polish dialogue is challenging! Losing the plot to Hansel and Gretel can happen - prepare to improvise! Tip: organize a backstage birthday party. Warsaw Zoo ul. ratuszowa 1/3, www.zoo.waw.pl. The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’. This year though, all eyes are on three tiger cubs born in Feb. Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl. recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

education preschools

casa dei Bambini & toddler school (multiple locations)

american school of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org. ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. the British school early Years centre ul. Dabrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 2 ½ (30 months) to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

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Warsaw Montessori school ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

ecole antoine de saintexupéry ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saint-exupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old.

the english Playhouse ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse.com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English

National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com. Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. Mama Marta’s toddlers centre Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre is an English-speaking play and learn group in Old Mokotów, dedicated to infants 16 months to 3 years of age. It offers a gentle introduction to nursery education. Contact: marta. cross@neostrada.pl, mob. 607 704 396. Maple tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from ul. rotmistrzowska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori. pl. Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by an Orff/Kodály-based music syllabus.

Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. Their program, which is designed for three to six year-olds, is devoted to the intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children. Międzynarodowa szkoła Podstawowa argonaut ul. radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, www.argonaut.edu.pl. This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities. Montessori academy for international children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy.eu. An Englishspeaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. trilingual Pre-school and nursery “three Languages” center ul.Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-5 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds),

www.3languages.pl. Open 7:30-18:30. The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

schools american school of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org. ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/or to visit our school contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

the British school ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting applications for all our locations and programs: Toddler: age 1,5-2,5 Casa: age 2,5 - 6 Elementary: age 6-9,9-12

Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl . Szwolezerów 4, Warszawa; Badowska 19, Warszawa; Szkolna 16, Izabelin.

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cHiLdren the canadian school of Warsaw – Primary school unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school. pl. The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuation of IB(International Baccalaureate)- based education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts (Bob the Builder, ceramics/pottery, art studio), music lessons(piano, guitar, choir, sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer club, swimming, therapeutic gymnastics), foreign languages (Spanish, Italian, German) and more. the canadian school of Warsaw – Middle and High school unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, 696 485 400,mid.high@canadian-school.pl, www. canadian-school.pl. Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds.International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. ecole antoine de saint-exupéry (h4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de SaintExupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. international american school ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442 or 603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization.

Kid’s academy Primary & Pre-school ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38

(Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods. Warsaw Montessori school (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@ warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

caFes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, figazmakiem.edu.pl. One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, www.fikumikucafe.pl. This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties. Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, www.kalimba.pl. Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops. The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable! Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

WarsaW InsIder | noveMBeR 2013

Kosmos Kosmos ul. Koszykowa 55. Open 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-last guest. The design fuses retro with rock, while the children’s area comes with a handmade puppet theater, cardboard castle and enticing kids menu. ‘Fun workshops’ take place at noon each Saturday. Weekday lunch specials are a break on the wallet. Inside playground is also a plus for bad weather. Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space. My Baby café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, www.mybabycafe.pl. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums.

sHoPs Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, www.bimbus.com.pl. Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou. endo Multiple locations, www.endo.pl. Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well. . Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, www.cudanakiju. pl. Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

Reviews: Reszel Castle 79

lifestyle

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

accommodatIon 79 / communIty 82 / health & Beauty 81 / medIcal 81 / PolIsh for foreIgners 82 / servIces 82 / transPortatIon 80 /

aCCommodatIon

Insider’s Pick

Hotels in WarsaW 5-star hotels H15 Boutique Apartments ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com Hyatt Regency Warsaw ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com Reszel Castle ul. Podzamcze 3, tel. 88 755 0109, www.zamek-reszel.com. Doubles from zł. 210.

PHOTOGRAPH By AlEx WEBBER

t’s hard not to feel thrilled arriving in Reszel – hidden deep in Poland’s lake district, this spooky red brick castle comes balanced on a rocky outcrop, looming menacingly over the pocket-sized old town. Scrambling up a steep cobbled drive, cars sputter through a medieval gateway, a portcullis hanging overhead, before coming to a halt in a courtyard swirling with shadows – if hotel’s are to be judged by their entrance, then this one’s hard to beat. Constructed in the 14th century to serve as a seat for the Bishops of Warmia, for the last couple of decades the castle has been in the custody of Bołesław Marschall – a local sculptor who has dedicated his life to turning what was a decaying hulk into an ‘artist retreat’. As such, you’ll find many of Marschall’s works sprinkled around the castle grounds. Disappointingly, however, rooms have the distinct whiff of IKEA about them. And there are other downers: four turret apartments are available, though you’d expect more at the price – for instance, a policy of genocide conducted against spiders. Televisions are 90s era boxes; furnishings are basic, and in some instances faded. A little raw and ready, you get the feeling the whole place has been designed with personal comfort as a periphery concern. And, FFS, even though you’re in a Gothic castle, there’s not one single fireplace! So, can it really be worth the three hour ride from Wa-wa? Most certainly. What Reszel lacks in luxury, it counter-balances with atmosphere alone. I’ve stayed in castles across Poland, and not one holds a candle to Reszel – let alone Reszel when seen under a red November sky. Start the day viewing the surrounding misty landscape from the tower, before making the short journey to explore Hitler’s wartime lair. On returning, prop up the hotel bar while the barman regales stories of ghosts and ghouls over warming shots of krupnik. Barbara Zdunk, the last European to be toasted for witchcraft, was held captive in the crypt-like basement. As claimed by a recent-ish episode of Ghost Hunters International, her unhappy form still clanks about. Magical and mysterious, it’s easy to overlook creature comforts in exchange for all that. (AW)

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Le meridien Bristol ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com the Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.com/warsaw Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888.

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LIfeStyLe www.poloniapalace.com

Sofitel Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl

3-star hotels

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw

Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl

4-star hotels

Golden tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

airport Hotel okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl Radisson Blu pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl mecure ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl Courtyard by marriott Hotel (airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800,

Warsaw Gromada Hotel airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl Holiday Inn express Warsaw airport ul. Poleczki, www.hiexpress.com Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl novotel Warszawa (airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl

apartments

Central apart ul. Łucka 2/4/6 m.45, tel. 22 357 0975, www.wawahotele.pl. Apartments for one to four people in locations across town. Prices from zł. 190. InterContinental

ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. mamaison Residence diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana. A beautiful city center location from the same team behind le Regina. Short and long term stays. Vision apartments Al. Jerozolimskie 81/22, tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu. Founded in Switzerland, Vision specialize in the rental of high-quality furnished apartments and are known for their commitment to service and style. Having evolved into Switzerland’s market leader in furnished living, the company is now in the process of establishing footholds throughout Europe with a presence in Berlin, Geneva, Munich, Warsaw and Vienna. Find their Warsaw apartments in Platinum Towers on Grzybowska.

tRanSPoRtatIon car rental

avis tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3. Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl. Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789. Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl. trust Rent a Car ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

relocation companies aGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077.

Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878,

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients. CorstJens Worldwide movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com. Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com. duX Consulting agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl. express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com. euro move International movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl. Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. With 120 relocation service centres and employs 3,150 international relocation services staff across Europe and EMEA, and over 600 alliances worldwide.

move one Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com. Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

HeaLtH & Beauty

spas & salons

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, www.haircology.pl. An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

fitness

Holmes Place Premier ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), www.holmesplace.pl. Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. Their latest outpost in the Marriott also has a pool and has been updated accordingly to fit the HP quality check. For prices enquire direct. RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00. A staunch favorite of the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

medICaL medical private clinics

Lux med medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4);

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LIfeStyLe ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

as well as for the international ECl certificate in Polish. Morning, afternoon & evening classes.

frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 403 7872, World Leader in Implantology and www.frog.org.pl. Acclaimed language school WARSAW Dental Aesthetics aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible malo Clinic schedules and a history of working with forMALOONZ CLINIC Warsaw is Central Rondo 1, tel. 22 335 7755, Europe's first clinic eigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for of the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental www.maloclinics.com/polska. Thisand world class new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. Aesthetics, offering full dental care, above all advanced implant surgery. dental clinicdental incorporates five dental offices, Located in a modern office complex Rondo 1 at anRondo operating twocenter recovery roomsthe and a Klub dialogu ONZ, room, in the city of Warsaw, Clinic can be easily accessed as center. it is located in only 10 state-of-the-art diagnostic Tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl. Individminutes from Central Railway Station, 30 minutes from ual and group courses held either on-site or at the F. Chopin International Airport, near bus, tram stops and subway station (Świętokrzyska Station). melitus the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages Entry into a secured car park in the Rondo 1 building – ul.off Słowackiego inc. both intensive and weekend courses. Pańska street.12, tel. 22 883 7438, mob. 603 060 621, biuro@melitus.pl, www.melitus. Services Available pl.MALO Specializing in dermatology, surgery, phle-and CLINIC Warsaw provides the best specialists the latest diagnostic equipment (incluand ding internal computer CommunIty bology, endocrinology, gynecology tomography), in the field of: medicine. The clinic is equipped with the latest MALO CLINIC Office complex Rondo 1 (+48) 22 335 77 55 Conservative Dentistry and Dental alcoholics anonymous for foreigners and mostSurgery innovative medical equipment Warsaw 1st floor in Building A warsaw@maloclinics.com Endodontics Implantology Rondo place ONZ 1 on ul. Radna, buzzer #3. Meetings take employs several renowned clinicians. Orthodontics Aesthetic Prosthetics www.maloclinics.com/polska www.maloclinics.com Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat 11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month). |

PoLISH foR foReIGneRS

edu & More ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, tel. 22 622 14 41, office@polishonlinenow.com, www. polishonlinenow.com. Polish language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. Preparatory courses for the state exam

amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, 1st floor; tel/fax: 22 827 6000; e-mail: amnesty@ amnesty.org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 0000 0000 0959 0181. expats-in-Poland.com Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive information and services for foreigners including immigration, work permits, driving licences, renting and buying properties,

Accounting & it ServiceS Al. Jerzego Waszyngtona 146, 04-076 Warszawa Tel +48 22 515 8054 Fax +48 22 870 6965 www.jjservices.pl jjservices@jjservices.pl

healthcare, education and more. For more information: www.expats-in-poland.com. european Social democrats in Poland Contact Tim Clapham at timclapham@poczta. onet.pl or Jean-yves leconte at jy.leconte@ assemblee-afe.fr. International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings aheld on the second and fourth Monday of the month. For more info email iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com. new europe Writers Ink A fellowship of writers creating poetry and prose fiction in English. For more information: ul. Marszałkowska 80, mailbox 151, editor@ new-ink.org, www.new-europe-writers-ink.com. St. Patrick’s foundation www.irishball.pl. The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year. taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine. For further info: please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@ fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353. toastmasters International Toastmasters Polska club invites all to the weekly meetings, to master the art of Public Speaking and presentation skills. Meetings every Wednesday at 19.00 in the Warsaw Stock Exchange, Catalyst room 1st floor, ul. Książęca 4. More info at toastmasters.org.pl or ring Etan at tel. 696 292 451.

SeRVICeS J&J Services Al. Jerzego Waszyngtona 146, tel. 22 515 80 54, jjservices@jjservices.pl. Accounting specialists dealing with domestic and foreign companies as well as individuals. Can also help with renting meeting rooms, services related to company registration, general office and educational solutions not to mention the recruitment of staff.

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

84 84

Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

Wa r s a w I n s|i novemBer d e r : 0 1 – 32013 1 M a r ch 2 0 1 1 WarsaW InsIder

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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A unique opportunity to live inside A nAture reserve. Do you dream of complete silence, with only the wind whistling in the trees? Or a lazy Sunday spent under the stars? This is your unique chance to own such a place. Set inside the Kampinowski National Park, but only 19km from the center of Warsaw, this could be your great escape. For further info: tel. 607 399 085, per@hansen.pl, www.dom-w-kampinosie.com

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHy WARsAW?

how big his hands were! Obviously, in situations like those you have to remain professional and organized but it was a very interesting experience to have. Surreal. It can’t get much better than that, surely? I thought I had peaked with that, but then we landed the Top Gear after-party. That’s something watched by 350 million people in the world! I’m a huge fan of the show, and a huge fan of Clarkson, so that was an amazing night – at one point we had James May on vocals and the rest of the Top Gear lads on stage playing Mustang Sally. any prima donna requests from them? No strange requests, but it was the only time we’ve allowed smoking in the club – we had to get special permission from all sorts of people: the city, the fire department. We even had to have a fireman on stand-by throughout the party. What’s the key to a successful event… Every event is different, but you’ve got to be well organized; you have to plan for every moment. An event is all about peaks and troughs, so you need to plan those out to sustain the night. you need to get people what they want when they want, in fact, before they even ask.

englishman Paul Cowen, the Md of the prestigious Pure sky Club, takes a moment to talk about life and living in the Polish capital…

WI: What’s the most important rule in your job? PC: you’re only as good as the team around you: you have to employ the right people. How do you find the right people? I’ve found good people hang around with good people, so a lot of our team here are via referrals. You’ve had some big stars in Pure sky, was there a time when you felt star-struck… Whether you love him or hate him, Tyson was something special. He was here to promote the Black energy drink and the atmosphere was simply electric. We had 150 journalists and you’d have thought he was announcing a rematch with Holyfield, not just promoting a can of pop. The air of anticipation was amazing. dish the dirt… I was surprised how nice he was actually, and also

WarsaW InsIder | novemBer 2013

What differences are there doing business out here? I continue to find it a bit bizarre when people make a reservation or booking and hand you a contract. Things that are done over a handshake in Britain need a contract out here. Your mates back home, did they think you were a bit mad moving out here? Everyone thought I was moving to Walsall! Haha, and there were those who confused Poland with the North Pole. But those who have visited me out here keep coming back. Warsaw is Europe’s best secret. Give us two things you’d change here? This applies to Poland in general, but I’d change the amount of national holidays out here. And, I’d add a theme park! For details on joining Pure Sky Club check: pureskyclub. com. Non-members, swing by on Friday evening for the weekly ‘London Calling’ event.

PHOTOGRAPH MICHAŁ OZDOBA

tHe SKy CaPtaIn

What excites you about Warsaw? The atmosphere. The opportunities. This is the land of opportunity, and it’s nice to have those opportunities in such an atmosphere. People appreciate what you do out here. In general, the Poles love the British, and in turn you’ve got to love the warmth of the Polish people. I think, in Warsaw, there’s also something of a small town mentality in that everyone knows everyone else, but that creates a real sense of community. This is a town on the up, and it feels fantastic being part of that.

Christmas inspiration. Gifting offer from Starbucks.

Choose one of the several ready gift packs or create your own with a little help from our barista. We offer discounts for bigger orders. Just send us email: prezenty@amrest.eu or visit nearest Starbucks store in Poland.