Warsaw Insider January 2014 #209

Take Two: Bars & Clubs

Contrast: Shopping

page 26

Warsaw

page 24

Through the Keyhole page 20

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2014

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to our readers

JANUARY 2014

INBOX

t was while clicking about the travel website bootsnall.com that I found it – an article dismissing and disparaging the term ‘city of contrasts’, declaring it a ‘lazy travel cliché’ that ‘no longer had any meaning’. This may well be the case, and the author certainly argues his case well, citing dozens of cities that have thus been described (among them Leicester, Limerick, Cambridge and The Hague). But does the fact that this is a phrase that is over-used and wrongly applied make it a lazy, ‘whatever you do, don’t use it’ moniker? In Warsaw’s case, absolutely not. Warsaw is not Leicester, and Warsaw is not Limerick. Her credentials stand up to scrutiny. Geographically alone, Warsaw has always been better qualified than most for the ‘city of contrast’ tag – which other capital, for instance, acts as such a natural bridge between Western Europe and that big, scary country found to the right. This alone has traditionally infused Warsaw with a diverse range of flavors at opposite ends of the scale. More recently, the social and political changes of the past few decades have added further weight to the city of contrasts label, creating a city caught in a tug-of-war between the future and the past. It’s for this reason we’ve used the pages of our January edition to celebrate the contradictions that serve to make this town such a thrill. Enjoy the issue and, of course, have a happy New Year. See you next time.

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

on the cover That’s ul. Bracka, a street which does better than most in showcasing Warsaw’s contrasts – what we don’t have at press time is the snow: so fingers crossed we get some to stop us looking daft... (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

Best regards, FV Editor: Oops, we’ve been rumbled. The lack of vegetarian addresses is something we’re aware of, and a point that we will be looking to amend in the coming months – not least via way of a planned feature. Firstly, thanks for a great publication. I’ve been an avid reader for several years, and am delighted to say I think your magazine continues to grow from strength to strength. But what, I must ask, is this obsession with the rainbow! Best wishes, DM Editor: Thanks for the kind words. Regards the rainbow, we feel this is not a gratuitous space filler, but a story that has dominated local news for well over a year. It has come to represent Poland’s inner struggle between conservative traditionalism and progressive liberalism. The saga, we feel, has captivated most here. But we will not beat a dead horse and write about it forever – in fact, we’ll stop the minute the loonies stop torching it! Say your piece at: insider@warsawinsider.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

A TALE OF TWO CITIES

I am a faithful reader of your publication, and always very happy to discover your news, tips and reviews. I am a Francophone ex-pat, and after excitingly flipping the pages in search of vegetarian entries for so long, I decided to write to you in that regard. In my opinion, your magazine does not reflect the amazing bounty of vegetarian addresses, which show a real trend, a growing ‘green’ and ‘ethical’ lifestyle, and their quality, inventiveness and originality.

MONCLER RALPH LAUREN SALVATORE FERRAGAMO TOD’S TORY BURCH

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com

what’s inside

JANUARY 2014

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

09 Opener WOŚP 10 Calendar Music, art and events around town 12 Museums Listings

31 Insider’s Pick Norma 46 Insider’s Pick Madras

Cafes & Wine Bars

61 Insider’s Pick Square 5

A tale of two cities: the old seen from the new

INfront

15 News in Brief Warsaw’s super toilet causes a stink, a rainbow rises on the horizon and skeletons under the park

From top to bottom

24 A Tale of Two Cities: Shopping From a bizarre bazaar to unique boutiques 26 A Tale of Two Cities: Nightlife From rich and pretty to cheap and cheerful

30 Warsaw Foodie Latest from the blog frontline

28 A Tale of Two Cities: Culture High art vs. street art

88 Why Warsaw? Frank Telling-Saphar of Solera

20 A Tale of Two Cities: Living Editor-in-chief Art Director Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com Agnieszka Kuczyńska akuczynska@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Iza Depczyk Karolina Kalinowska Michał Miszkurka Agnes Monod-Gayraud Paula Rewald Christian Swindells Ed Wight

Shopping

71 Insider’s Pick Vintage Store

18 City News Revamps and redesigns steal the headlines

FEATURES

Nightlife

65 Insider’s Pick Gorączka Złota

Children

75 Insider’s Pick Waff Love

Lifestyle

79 Insider’s Pick Haircology 84 Street Index 85 Classifieds 86 Warsaw Map

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2014 Warsaw Insider.

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

BESTOF WARSAW 2013

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

THE INSIDER CELEBRATED ITS 10TH ANNUAL BEST OF WARSAW AWARDS IN DECEMBER, WITH THE CREAM OF THE CITY’S FOOD AND BEVERAGE SECTOR ON HAND TO ENJOY A LIVELY EVENING HOSTED AT DELITE. CHEERS TO ALL!

Kufle i Kapsle “Best Beer Bar”

Paweł Oszczyk “Best Chef”

Secado “Best Cocktails”

Kaskrut “Best Casual Dining”

Bristol Wine Bar “Best Wine Bar”

Signature “Best Restaurant Design”

Sztuki i Sztuczki “Best Late Night”

Nolita “Best Fine Dining”

Wojciech Modest Amaro “Outstanding Achievement”

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Interview: Wielka Orkiestra Świątecznej Pomocy (WOŚP) 9

CULTURE

for more events visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

EVENTS 10 / MUSEUMS 12

Insider’s Pick

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

CHARITY

Finale of the Wielka Orkiestra Świątecznej Pomocy (WOŚP) January 12, various locations

or the 22nd year running this fundraising powerhouse hits the streets of Poland with its red heart-shaped stickers, as always, on the second Sunday of January. The idea is simple – give your spare change (or more) to one of the thousands of volunteers (amongst whom Polish celebrities can even be spotted) and be able to proudly bear a red heart that reads The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity, what “Wielka Orkiestra Świątecznej Pomocy” directly translates to. Every little helps, amounting to tens of millions each year that is donated to worthy causes with the overarching theme of improving healthcare within Poland. This year round the money will be going towards purchasing specialist equipment for the medical

diagnosis of children as well as for decent medical care for senior citizens. In conjunction with the fundraising, live concerts across the main cities of Poland (and abroad) are put on, hence the ‘Orchestra’ in the name, the Palace of Culture gets adorned with a massive red sticker and Jurek Owsiak, the founder, in his matching red rim glasses, directs and narrates it all. The main concert is of course in Warsaw, at the foot of the Palace of Culture, kicking off at 1:30 p.m. For nearly 12 hours stars of the Polish music scene will be heating up the winter day, culminating with a firework display at 8 p.m. that marks a general lighting of lights across all of Poland. This massive event extends out the holiday spirit of giving into January and unites people like no other event of its kind. Make sure you venture out into town that day so as not to miss it. (KK) For further details and a full schedule check: www.wosp.org.pl

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Xaver rips through Poland Hurricane-force winds wreak havoc across Europe

CULTURE EVENTS THIS MONTH

Ukraine dominates Polish politics Warsaw mulls over a new approach towards Kiev

Warsaw has facilitated an English 19 CONCERT guided tour of the “In the Heart of CONCERT A Night in Venice Great Johann Strauss Gala the Country” exhibit showcasing Ongoing 17:00, Sala Kongresowa, Concert the Museum’s permanent Ice rink Pl. Defilad 19:30, Filharmonia Narodowa, collection. Expect to hear about Old Town Square This operetta with music written ul. Jasna 5 the history of the place, the Initially delayed, this will very This one of a kind performance by the great Strauss himself variety of artistic expression and much be the main attraction by the Strauss Festival Orchestra takes us to the magically colorful the possibilities of interpreting a . z∏.12.50 (VAT 8% included) . ISSN 1233 7889 INDEX-RUCH-332-127 Since 1994 . Poland’s only business weekly in English VOLUME 19, NUMBER 48an • DECEMBER 2013 this winter. This year, ice rink 9-15, has already garnered an audience land of Venice during Carnival piece. Free of charge. For further replaces the traditional Christmas and promises to be a show full of over four million across info see: artmuseum.pl Market that used to entice so Europe. Now, finally, the music of pomp and splendor. Tickets 11 many. However, this move is of Franz Joseph I and imperial available from zł. 100. CONCERT apparently in line with how winter Vienna comes to PL. REAL ESTATE Agnes Obel CONCERT used to be done in Warsaw back 9th Annual New Year’s Concert 20:00, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 23 in the day. Allegedly, it’ll be in 17:00, Filharmonia Narodowa, Hailing from Copenhagen but CONCERT operation till March. ul. Jasna 5 Alcest/Hexvessel/ The Fauns residing in Berlin, Obel writes, Performed by the Masovian 19:00, Hydrozagadka, composes and arranges truly ul. 11 Listopada 22 Musical Theatre and dedicated beautiful music, as reflected by Between the three bands to the group’s friend and great the success of her debut album, performing, genres from tenor, Wojciech Ochman, who Philharmonics. Now, she’s in shoegaze to black-metal and folk celebrates the 55th anniversary Warsaw promoting her second • Retail market are all covered: even so, the three of the beginning of his career. album Aventine. Tickets from zł. • Rotunda revamp The group promise both musical 85 from eBilet.pl and TicketPro.pl groups somehow manage to • Polnord development complement each other. Tickets and non-musical surprises and 15-18 from zł. 49 from bilety24.pl of course Ochman himself will Petrochemical also perform. Tickets from zł. 150 power-up THEATRE from eBilet.pl. For more info see: “Nietoperz” (“Bat”) – with www.mtmoperetka.pl Lotos and Azoty pen an initial dealoffor a z∏.12 Labyrinth Light and Garden English subtitles billion investment of Imagination 4 19:00, Teatr TR Warszawa, 5 Wilanów Palace Park SHOW ul. Marszałkowska 8 An installation composed of Mapping for the Opening of Based on the motifs of Strauss’s the Garden of Imagination over 150 thousand colorful bulbs (the son’s) classic operetta, “Die • IPO storm Wilanów Palace illuminates the Wilanów Palace Fledermaus”, the play tells the • EADS deal An unusual experience where the 17 Park in line with an Alice in story of various families coming •Wonderland Transparency indexThink masCONCERT façade ofwill the palace transforms theme. together to celebrate the New What be the •sive Interest hold and top Erik Friedlander’s Bonebridge itself, thanks to a choreographed cards,rates keys,onteapots Year. Yet many have to make consequences of •hats. BestInPMI figures since 2011 light projection, into an animated Band parts, the weird pieces numerous sacrifices to attend, ongoing 20:30, Studio Koncertowe story-telling show. This one come accompanied by music. The the and all are curious to see whether Polskiego Radio, marks the opening of the Garden effect is suitably psychedelic and events or not Man can bear the burden in Ukraine In this issue ul. Modzelewskiego 59 of Imagination – an addition to hypnotic. Not only for the kids. of God’s free will... Tickets News . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-4 for EU-Russia Business . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-6 Bonebridge is Friedlander’s new the Labyrinth of Light. Free of from zł. 80. For more info see: Finance & Economics . . . . . . . . . . .7 12-13 relations? brainchild for which the cellist charge. trwarszawa.pl Interview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8-9 Opinion & Analysis . . . . . . . . .10-11 toured the American South Cover Story . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12-13 searching for inspiration. What TOUR Lokale Immobilia . . . . . . . . . .15-18 Markets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 English-speaking tour of the 24 resulted is a blend of Southern The List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 art collections rock with a New York edge where CONCERT Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Lifestyle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 14:00, Muzeum Świetliki pushes slide guitar is just as important The government Poland joins Sztuki others in bidding Nowoczesnej, ul. Pańska 3 19:00, Proxima, zł. 80 its controversial farewell to one of the 20th as the cello. Tickets fromthrough The Museum of Modern Art in ul. Żwirki I Wigury 99A from TicketPro.pl 4 pension reform century’s greatest leaders 3 WWW.WBJ.PL

Taking on Putin

COURTESY OF ROTUNDA2013.PL

LOKALE IMMOBILIA

Mourning Mandela

Pension shakeup

Cyprus Trade Center in Poland www.cyprustrade.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

AP/FOTOLINK

Plus:

Formed among the cultural crème de la crème of 1900s Kraków, cultural luminaries such as Szymborska and Miłosz were among their first fans. They sing their poetry and couple it with an inimitable musical style. Tickets from zł. 38 from eBilet.pl or TicketPro.pl

Clannad 18:00, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 This Irish band artfully weaves together modernity and tradition, folk, folk rock, traditional Irish Celtic and New Age. Best known for their hit, Theme From Harry’s Game and soundtracks to the films The Last of the Mohicans and Patriot Games. Tickets from zł. 129.

30 & 31 CONCERT

CONCERT Royal Republic and the Nosebreakers 19:00, Hybrydy, ul. Złota 7/9 A Swedish band with a global following, their sound has been compared to a mix of The Hives and Rancid. This concert is a promotion of their new endeavor, an acoustic EP recorded jointly with the Nosebreakers. Tickets from zł. 59 from eventim.pl and TicketPro.pl

Media Patronage

January 14 Marc Ducret Solo 20:30, Pardon To Tu, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, www. pardontotu.pl

or two years running Pardon To Tu was named in our Best of Warsaw issue as the Best Live Music venue in the city, and they begin the defense of this title in 2013 with what promises to be a cracker of a show. Frenchman Marc Ducret arrives to play solo in front of what we imagine will be a full house. Best known for his work with saxophonist Tim Berne, this self-taught guitar master has had his style likened to Pat Metheny while also being lauded for his originality and inimitable expressiveness. Tickets zł. 25

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CULTURE Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl What looks like a cemetery of rust and a tangle of exhaust pipes unravels into Warsaw’s most underrated museum. Find vehicles of every description: Lech Wałesa’s Volvo (with 7cm bullet-proof windows), Gomułka’s ZIS limo, German wartime armor and a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark – the type favored by Elvis and Marilyn. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special. Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. Dec 6: Around Jazz. A monthly jazz concert held in the planetarium with a ‘cosmic theme’. Ongoing until March 30: Accelerating Science. This temporary exhibition poses the question, ‘how was the universe born’? CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Edward Dwurnik, Jenny Holzer, Annie Leibovitz, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing till Feb 2: Kolekcja Fragment. Highlights from the exhibitions of nine artists who’ve had their work presented at CSW in the last three years. Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent

exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion. Ongoing until Jan 6: I Will Be Photographing it in Color. The Beginning of the 20th Century in Stanisław Wilhelm Lilpop’s Three-Dimensional Photographs. An exhibition of 180 photographs shot between 1908 and 1930, some of them using 3D techniques. Ongoing until Jan 6: Gerald Howson – A Very Polish Affair. Sixty photographs taken by Howson in 1959 during his three week trip around Warsaw, Kraków, Nowa Huta and Lublin. The negatives were smuggled out of Poland in Howson’s trouser leg, and remained unpublished for 50 years! Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, www.jhi.pl Officially opened in1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains art work, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. Ongoing till Jan 31: Foreign and Unpleasant. A collection of caricatures that accompanied anti-Semitic articles. Ongoing until April: The Photographs of Yoram Gross. An intriguing collection of photographs taken by filmmaker Yoram Gross in 2012 when he toured Poland to show his grandchildren the country of his birth. Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw. Preludes of the Museum of the History of Polish Jews

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

ul. Anielewicza 6. Slated to open in full in the first half of 2014, this hugely impressive museum is already luring streams of onlookers eager to preview the temporary exhibits housed in the opening halls. Ongoing: Biographies of Things. A temporary display of items donated to the museum, among them toys, artwork, photos, religious items and everyday articles like travel trunks and clothing. The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of King Stanisław August this museum includes paintings and furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history as well as temporary exhibitions of more modern work. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast

collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing until January 6: In the Heart of the Country. The first comprehensive presentation of the museum’s international collection of art. Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine. National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing till Feb 2: Guercino. The Triumph of Baroque. A showcase of one of the most extraordinary Italian baroque painters. The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org A complete departure from the stuff museums in Poland are famed for, this long awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

date from the 60s and 70s. Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found

on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, www.muzkol.pl Inside the museum contains an unimaginative formula of train models (including one charmingly outdated model displaying a crash!), uniforms and paintings depicting Polish rail travel through the passage of time. Outside it’s a different story – find an amazing

collection of locomotives, including armored vehicles and Comrade Bierut’s luxury saloon car. Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk. Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl

Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Ongoing until Dec 15: Houses as Silver Tents. Works by contemporary artists penetrate the stereotypes connected with the Romany people. Ongoing until Feb 16: Robert Maciejuk, Honza Zamojski. Top and bottom. This joint exhibition is a culminating point for the two artists’ long friendship and collaboration. Ongoing until Feb 6: Map. Artistic Migrations and the Cold War. A reflection of the dynamic art world after the Second World War. Ongoing until Feb 23: Amor e ódio à Lygia Clark (I Love and Hate Lygia Clark). A retrospective exhibition showcasing Brazilian artists of the younger generation.

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INFRONT CITY NEWS 18 / HISTORICAL 16 / LGBT 16 / LOCAL 15 / NEWS 16 / SEASONAL 16

LOCAL

New Toilet Causes Stink

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Originally scheduled to open in time for Euro 2012, a new toilet in the vicinity of Warsaw’s National Stadium has incensed locals after it was revealed the city has spent zł. 4.6 million on the facility – nearly four times over the original budget. Constructed from Siberian larch, the slick modernist structure has sparked outrage after costs were allowed to spiral out of control. The location, close to the Wisła river, has been partially blamed for the overspend. “The foundations had to be very deep,” excused Marek Piwowarski, a spokesman for City Hall, “the Saska Kępa area marks the old river corridor of the Wisła, so this all added to the cost.” Additionally, the building has been designed so the ground floor can be dismantled and the stairs raised in the event of a flood. Hidden in a single enclosure, the project is slated to contain two sections independent of each other: a toilet and changing area, which will also rent out sun loungers in season, and a second pavilion containing a café. But having already batted away criticism after spending zł. 64,000 repairing the rainbow installation on pl. Zbawiciela (which was then promptly torched during Independence Day riots, just a week after completion), officials remain unrepentant. “If you ask me,” commented Piwowarski, “taking everything into consideration I’d say it’s well worth the money.” Due to finally open in spring, a tender process has now been launched to lease the vacant space to a café. Let’s hope it’s not a dump. (AW)

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INFRONT

BRIEFING ED WIGHT’S NEWS BITES L OF A WAY TO GO

Ghosts of the Past

While the zł. 15 million restoration of the historic Krasińskich Park has caused anger amongst locals following the felling of 330 trees, it has also allowed local archeologists the unique opportunity to search for wartime relics thought to have been lost to time. December saw researchers discover two skeletons thought to date from the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, as well as a sewing kit and loaf of bread from the same era. But the principal reason for the dig, the hunt for the missing Jewish Bund archive, has continued to draw a blank. SEASONAL

A N-ice Sight

The decision to move Warsaw’s Christmas Market from its traditional home in the Old Town Square appeared to backfire in November when plans to install an ice rink in its place were shelved at the last minute. The original operator of the rink withdrew after raising concerns regarding the prolonged renovation of the Rynek. City officials though have saved the day, funding a 20x30 meter rink that was slated to open just as we prepared to go to press. Surrounded by spruce trees and seasonal illuminations, it will be open till March. LGBT

Over the Rainbow

The never ending saga of Pl. Zbawiciela’s rainbow installation grinds on… Interpreted by the right wing as an anti-Catholic, pro-LGBT statement, the rainbow was set alight during Independence Day riots in November. Now though, in spite of an open letter from local residents protesting its reconstruction, City Hall has announced the rainbow will rise once more in its original place on May 1. Ideas had been mooted to relocate it to Ursynów, while others had lobbied for its rainbow colors to be replaced with the red and white of Poland.

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

DEAD CERT A Polish pensioner shocked passersby after driving his dead wife to his local GP and leaving her corpse in the car while he went inside to ask for a death certificate. The 66-year-old from Krosno said he needed the certificate before taking the woman to the undertakers. He was fined zł. 400 and given a caution.

CAR BOOT FAIL A local mayor is facing jail after catching a thief – and taking him to the police station in the boot of his car. Jerzy S, 55, mayor of Pieńsk had spotted the 22-year-old thief leaving a shop with stolen goods when he apprehended him and bundled him into the car boot. But now he is facing charges of assault, threatening behavior and false imprisonment after the thief filed a complaint. A spokesman for the prosecution warned he could face five years in jail if found guilty.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

HISTORICAL

A woman who failed her driving test 14 times in a row was arrested after attacking her instructor and driving off in his car. Anna N, 45, from Rybnik, told police she had “lost it” after failing the test, and beating the instructor on the head before driving the car into a wall. A police spokesman said: “When the instructor asked her what she was doing she replied: ‘How many times can you fail in this f**king test center?’” She was fined zł. 500 for driving without a license, not wearing a seatbelt and assault.

INFRONT

IN THE CITY Ticket to Ride

With a new year comes new prices for Warsaw’s public transport. Bowing to public pressure, 20 minute tickets shall remain pegged at their current level, and new tickets valid for 75 minutes (zł. 4.40) will also be introduced along with weekend tickets for individuals and groups of up to five people (zł. 28-40). The biggest change involves the launch of the Karta Warszawiaka, which will enable those who pay taxes to their local Warsaw tax office to purchase long term travel cards at 2013 prices. Those who don’t face an increase of up to zł. 30 for a 90 day pass.

It’s been announced that the Kraków-based studio Gowin-Siuto will oversee the redesign of central Warsaw’s PKO Rotunda building, with the winning project envisioning transparent glass walls, a first floor café with 360 degree views and an outdoor summer cinema. The design stands to reinvent an area of Warsaw that till now has been best known for its crumbling concrete and giant billboards. Over 1,000 architects from 79 countries submitted proposals to revitalize the Rotunda, with the winning entry set to cost zł. 15.5 million. At press time, PKO were scheduled to meet GowinSiuto to discuss how to proceed with implementing the plans.

New Routes Lift Off Ryanair have confirmed two new routes that will see daily flights from Warsaw Modlin to Gdańsk and Wrocław. Flights will commence in April, with travel time to Wrocław set at 60 minutes, and 45 minutes to Gdańsk. Prices start from zł. 99.

Gdański Revamp Closer

Designs for the zł. 1.2 billion modernization of Dworzec Gdański have been submitted, with three developers bidding for the contract. Ghelamco, Penta and Immobel are all in the chase, with the winner of the tender due to be announced this month. The field has already been narrowed down from six bidders, with the winning design taking into account how to successfully regenerate an attractive investment area of 4.7 hectares. It is hoped construction will begin at the end of Q4 2014. Immobel

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

Ghelamco

Penta

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP, KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESS MATERIAL, SHUTTERSTOCK, PRESS MATERIAL

Rotunda Reworked

Job market enterspoprawy 2014: salaries to Pierwsze Pierwsze oznaki oznaki poprawy sytuacji sytuacji increase, employment put on hold na napolskim polskimrynku rynkupracy pracy

Despite being convinced that next year will see economic growth, entrepreneurs are still very cautious, according to the results of the latest Employers’ Plans survey conducted by the Randstad Research Tradycyjnie Tradycyjnie bardziej bardziej ożywiony ożywiony sezon letni letni sięfew ma ku months się końcowi, ku końcowi, przyniósł przyniósł Institute together withsezon TNS. In thema past the number of jednakjednak spodziewane spodziewane przejawy przejawy poprawy poprawy nastrojów nastrojów na rynku pracy We –pracy jakwon’t – jak companies that hired new people decreased byrynku 25na percent. pokazują pokazują wyniki wyniki sondażu sondażu Monitor Monitor Rynku Rynku Pracy Instytutu Pracy Instytutu Badawczego Badawczego see any significant increase in the number of workplaces in early 2014, Randstad Randstad – rzadziej – rzadziej odczuwamy odczuwamy ryzyko utratyopen utraty pracy pracy częściej oraz salaries, częściej which either. However, employers areryzyko more tooraz increasing możliwość możliwość znalezienia znalezienia nowego nowego zatrudnienia. zatrudnienia. Nie ulega Nie ulega jednak jednak zmianie zmianie may indicate gradual economic improvement. Will the coming year trudnatrudna sytuacja najmłodszych najmłodszych i najstarszych i najstarszych pracowników. te te bringsytuacja the long-awaited changes to the job pracowników. market? GrupyGrupy

What kind of salary changes can we expect? Survey results show that 22 percent of those employers who are looking to increase salaries are planning pay adjustments on a par with Warto Warto zauważyć, zauważyć, że przy żedużym przy dużym poziomie poziomie rotacji rotacji zanotowanej zanotowanej w number ostatnim w ostatnim inflation, or only slightly higher (up to 1.99 percent). The largest kwartale, skłonność skłonność pracowników do poszukiwania do nowego nowego zatrudnienia ofkwartale, employers (32 pracowników percent) are planning onposzukiwania increasing salaries by 2-4zatrudnienia jest bardzo jest bardzo stabilna stabilna i niemal i niemal nie nie ulega zmianom. Odsetek Polaków Polaków percent. A quarter of firms (23ulega percent) arezmianom. looking toOdsetek increase their poszukujących poszukujących innego innego pracodawcy, niezależnie niezależnie od wieku wieku i płci want badanych, i płcito badanych, workers’ pay by between 4pracodawcy, and 6.99 percent, while 9od percent utrzymuje utrzymuje się na się poziomie na poziomie bliskim bliskim średniej średniej krajów krajów europejskich europejskich raise them by 7 percent or more.

(13% Polska, (13% Polska, 12% średnia 12% średnia dla Europy). dla Europy). w zmaganiach w zmaganiach na rynku na rynku pracy często pracy często podejmują podejmują się prac sięponiżej prac poniżej In most companies where pay increases are planned, all departments posiadanych posiadanych ograniczając ograniczając tymcompanies samym tym samym możliwości rozwoju Doświadczenie Doświadczenie na rynku na rynku pracy. Czyofwiek Czy wiek również? również? will be awardeddecyduje raises decyduje (67 percent). Also, over apracy. half employers (54 We kwalifikacji, expectkwalifikacji, economic growth, but keepmożliwości hiringrozwoju on hold doświadczenia doświadczenia zawodowego. zawodowego. Zdaniem respondentów respondentów punktem punktem percent) say they will increase salaries of the entire workforce and not One out of every four Zdaniem employers surveyed (26 percent) expects to startowym startowym dla stałego dla stałego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia może być może praca być tymczasowa. praca tymczasowa. Respondenci Respondenci pytani pytani o to, co o ma to, co większe ma większe znaczenie podczas podczas poszukiwania poszukiwania only of key employees in each department. Inznaczenie 20 percent of companies see economic growth within the next six months according to the nie pracy mają nie wątpliwości mają wątpliwości zdecydowana - zdecydowana większość większość (86%) (86%) badanych pay rises will be given to-smaller groups of employees, of no morebadanych than most recent 20th Employers’ Plans survey, carried out by the Randstad pracy MniejMniej obaw obaw o utrzymanie o utrzymanie pracy pracy iTNS. więcej i więcej wiarywiary wamożliwość w możliwość uważa, uważa, że że doświadczenie zawodowe zawodowe przeważa przeważa nad wykształcenad wykształce20Polaków percent of thedoświadczenie workforce. Research Institute together with This indicated marginal increase Polaków niem. niem. Co istotne, Co istotne, w wynikach w wynikach nie widać nie widać wyraźnego wyraźnego zróżnicowania zróżnicowania over the results recorded in August 2013 (25 percent), though still znalezienia znalezienia nowej nowej w odpowiedziach różnych różnych grupchanges wiekowych grup wiekowych zarówno – zarówno młodzi, młodzi, jak i starsi jak i starsi Is there a chance for bigger in the–job market? represents a far better result than the one observed a year ago, where w odpowiedziach wiekiem pracownicy są takwho są samo tak zgodni. samo Most of thepracownicy employers said they zgodni. weren’t planning any salary 8 percent of polled employers wereMonitor optimistic about the future. Jak pokazują Jakonly pokazują wyniki wyniki ostatniego ostatniego sondażu sondażu Monitor RynkuRynku Pracy Instytutu Pracy Instytutu wiekiem

increases claim that these are impossible due to their companies’ current Still,Randstad despite this continued improvement in się employers’ sentiment, the Badawczego Badawczego Randstad drugie drugie półrocze półrocze rozpoczęło rozpoczęło poprawą się poprawą nastrojów nastrojów Zdaniem badanych, badanych, wiek stanowi wiek stanowi jednak jednak bardzo bardzo ważny ważny czynnik czynnik podczas financial standing (59 percent). The second most frequent reason for podczas market is predominantly about the next sixale months one out Zdaniem w gronie w gronie badanych badanych Polaków. Polaków. Nie skeptical jest Nie tojest zmiana to zmiana radykalna, radykalna, pierwsza ale– pierwsza poszukiwań pracy, pracy, ponieważ kandydaci różnych pokoleń, pokoleń, są przez są przez freezing pay is that noponieważ increase inkandydaci salesróżnych figures or in the company’s of two respondents (52 percent)się expects po roku posystematycznie roku systematycznie pogarszających pogarszających wyników. sięstagnation wyników.in the economy and poszukiwań pracodawców pracodawców różnie różnie traktowani. traktowani. Ponad 4 na(31 54badanych na 5 badanych Polsce w Polsce efficiency was recorded over the past Ponad year percent). Awsmall number expressed little hope for improvement. że osobom że osobom młodym młodym (poniżej 25 raising roku 25życia) roku jest życia) jestthey trudniej na na ofstwierdziło, employers said that the reason for(poniżej not salaries istrudniej that BadaniBadani pracownicy pracownicy nieco rzadziej nieco rzadziej obawiają obawiają się utraty się utraty pracy. pracy. Choć obawa, Choć obawa,stwierdziło, rynku rynku pracy, pracy, a ponad ponad 90% uważa, 90% uważa, że ukończywszy że ukończywszy 55 rok życia roktrudniej życia would have no a problem finding and keeping workers at55 current pay trudniej Employment grew slower thanzerwana anticipated the fall, and little will że ich że bieżąca ich bieżąca umowa umowa zostanie zostanie zerwana lub nieprzedłużona lub in nieprzedłużona nadal nadal jest znaleźć jest (10 znaleźć pracę. pracę. Co więcej, Co więcej, w opinii w opinii badanych badanych trudnatrudna sytuacja sytuacja na rynku na rynku levels percent). change the dotyczy dotyczy blisko blisko coin trzeciego cowinter trzeciego respondenta respondenta (34%),(34%), to wynik to wynik ten plasuje ten plasuje pracygrup obuwiekowych grup wiekowych sprawia, sprawia, że i najmłodsi że i najmłodsi i najstarsi i najstarsi są skłonni są skłonni do do highly optimistic summer declarations about increasing employ- pracy obu PolskęPolskę naDespite poziomie na poziomie nieznacznie nieznacznie powyżej powyżej średniej średniej europejskiej europejskiej i znacznie i znacznie zaniżania swoich swoich kwalifikacji kwalifikacji dla podjęcia dla podjęcia pracy (odpowiednio pracy (odpowiednio 87% 87% Kajetan Słonina explains: “The responses we had from companies ment,krajów the number of stabilnych workplaces grew farjak slower than anticipated. poniżej poniżej krajów o mniej o mniej stabilnych gospodarkach gospodarkach Grecja jak Grecja (45%), (45%), Only zaniżania i 90%). are hardly surprising – each of the reasons for not raising salaries is 30 percent companies new employees, which is an unimpressive i 90%). Hiszpania Hiszpania (42%) (42%) czyof Węgry czy Węgry (40%).hired (40%). backed by economic calculation. Companies decide to increase pay or

result considering that earlier forecasts indicated growth almost 10

Z podkreślaniem istotności istotności doświadczenia doświadczenia zawodowego zawodowego dla budowania budowania employment only when they see a potential return on such andla investpoints bigger. current result alsosąmarks a significant Pod kątem Podpercentage kątem oceny oceny dostępności dostępności ofertThe pracy ofert Polacy pracy Polacy są obecnie obecnie jednym jednym fall Z podkreślaniem kariery kariery zawodowej, zawodowej, bardzo bardzo spójna jest opinia jest opinia zdecydowanej zdecydowanej większości ment. Currently our market is atspójna a point where after severalwiększości quarters compared with the results from August this year sondażem. (30 percent as opposed z najbardziej z najbardziej optymistycznych optymistycznych narodów narodów objętych objętych sondażem. W przypadku W przypadku Polaków Polaków (88%),(88%), że trampoliną że trampoliną zdobycia do zdobycia stałego stałego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia ofbadanych economic uncertainty employers aredo trying to use the resources to 39 percent recorded in the previous survey). konieczności konieczności znalezienia znalezienia nowego nowego pracodawcy pracodawcy w ciągu w nadchodzącego ciągu nadchodzącego badanych może być może dlabyć nich zatrudnienie nich zatrudnienie w formule wthe formule tymczasowej. tymczasowej. Takiego zdania they have as dla efficiently as possible. If positive signalsTakiego we have been zdania półrocza, półrocza, aż 68% ażbadanych 68% badanych ocenia,ocenia, że znajdzie że znajdzie porównywalne porównywalne do do byli zarówno byli zarówno pracownicy pracownicy młodsi,młodsi, jak iand starsi, jak i starsi, choć co choć ważne, co ważne, badani badani observing – growing consumption production – continue to drive What can we w expect after New Year? obecnego obecnego stanowisko stanowisko innej w firmie. innej firmie. Pod tym Pod względem tym względem jedynie jedynie postrzegali pracę tymczasową, pracę tymczasową, jakoexpect rozwiązanie jakoemployment rozwiązanie raczejtoraczej dla osób as młodych market growth in 2014, we can goosób updla asmłodych well, Kajetan Słonina remarks: companies remain conservative in their postrzegali Norwegowie Norwegowie przewyższają przewyższają nas w “Most nas swoim w swoim optymizmie. optymizmie. Najniżej Najniżej swoje swoje (58%). will eventually reach the maximum efficiency of their human employers the nowego first few months of 2014. As many as 6 out- jedynie of 10-companies szanseszanse naplans znalezienie nafor znalezienie nowego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia ocenili ocenili Hiszpanie Hiszpanie jedynie co co(58%). plan to keep employment levels unchanged in the nextnową six months. trzeci badany trzeci badany ocenia, ocenia, że będzie że będzie mógł znaleźć mógł znaleźć porównywalną porównywalną nową pracę pracę is even more concerning is that evenłącznie, though 19 percent firms (34%).(34%). WeWhat wszystkich We wszystkich krajach krajach europejskich europejskich łącznie, odpowiedzi odpowiedzi takiejoftakiej plan toco create new jobs,(51%). almost as many (17 percent) are considering udzielała udzielała co druga druga osoba osoba (51%). reductions. This means that nearly twice as many companies are looking

toważne, decrease employment as was declared in nie the dotyczy August survey, when Co bardzo Co bardzo ważne, odczuwana odczuwana poprawa poprawa nastrojów nastrojów nie dotyczy wszystkich wszystkich only 9 Wyniki percent had such plans.pokazują These negative results can be explained zatrudnionych. zatrudnionych. Wyniki badania badania pokazują znaczący znaczący wzrost wzrost obaw obaw o utratę o utratę bypracowników the expected winter slowdown in the market, as iszwiększyła usually stanowiska stanowiska pracowników najstarszych najstarszych wiekiem wiekiem –labor ta grupa – ta grupa zwiększyła się thesię casekwartale once the o holiday surge in production w tymw kwartale tym o jedną jedną trzeciąseason, trzecią (z 28%together (zw28% II/2013 wwith II/2013 do its 41% doobecnie). 41% obecnie). and sales, is over. Atteż this time construction, agriculture and the food Podobnie Podobnie wysokie wysokie są też są obawy obawy osób najmłodszych, osób najmłodszych, dopiero dopiero rozpoczynarozpoczynaprocessing business are at a standstill.” jącychjących swoją swoją karierękarierę zawodową zawodową (39%). (39%). Ponadto, Ponadto, o ile woprzypadku ile w przypadku oceny oceny możliwości możliwości znalezienia znalezienia nowejnowej pracy młodsi pracy młodsi respondenci respondenci badania badania (18-24(18-24 More employers planoptymistyczni, salaryoptymistyczni, increasesto – small but for many oraz 25-34 oraz lat) 25-34 są lat) najbardziej są najbardziej najstarsi toones, najstarsi odpowiadający odpowiadający employees w badaniu w badaniu PolacyPolacy mieli blisko mieli blisko dwukrotnie dwukrotnie gorszegorsze oceny oceny (odpowiednio (odpowiednio After a period of salaries and wages over the past six months, 78% wobec 78% wobec 42% dla 42% porównywalnej dlafreezing porównywalnej pracy). pracy). companies seem to be more optimistic about the beginning of 2014. Although most employers said they will make no changes to their Wysoki Wysoki poziom poziom rotacji rotacji związanych związanych ze zmianami ze zmianami remuneration scheme (66 percent), there is a marked increase in the strukturalnymi strukturalnymi number of those that plan to increase salaries – currently a quarter of all companies polled are planning on giving raises (26 percent as compared WynikiWyniki badania pokazują, pokazują, że w ostatnim żethis w ostatnim półroczu półroczu co czwarty co czwarty (25%) (25%) to 17badania percent in August of year).

polski polski respondent respondent zmienił zmienił pracodawcę. pracodawcę. Po trzech Po trzech kwartałach kwartałach ze średnią ze średnią dynamiką dynamiką zmian zmian bliską bliską europejskiej europejskiej (16%) jest tojest bardzo to duża zmiana duża zmiana Plans regarding increasing pay vary(16%) depending onbardzo the location. In oraz najwyższy oraz najwyższy obecnie obecnie rezultat rezultat pośródpośród badanych badanych krajów krajów naszego Poland’s western and southern regions, almost every third naszego employer is kontynentu kontynentu w tym w okresie. tym okresie. Główną Główną przyczyną przyczyną zmiany zmiany pracy przez pracy przez planning on raising salaries (31 percent for both areas). Almost the same biorących biorących udziałwas udział w badaniu w badaniu było poszukiwanie było northern poszukiwanie lepszych warunków warunków result recorded in Poland’s regionlepszych (29 percent), while in zatrudnienia zatrudnienia (35%). Zaraz Zaraz nim, za niemal z niemal identycznym wpływem wpływem central and(35%). easternza parts ofznim, the country payidentycznym rises can be expected in only - zmiany - zmiany w strukturze w strukturze firmy, firmy, których których znaczenie znaczenie od roku od systematycznie roku systematycznie one out of every five companies (19 percent and 22 percent respectively). rośnierośnie (34% obecnie, (34% obecnie, 22% w22% maju w2012). maju 2012).

resources. And as there is more activity on the labor market, further pay increases can be expected. According to the survey respondents, higher salaries will trigger a self-perpetuating cycle – well-paid workers will be more motivated and will perform better, adding to the performance of the company, which in turn will lead to more growth.”

“Monitor “Monitor RynkuRynku Pracy”Pracy” jest kwartalnym jest kwartalnym sondażem sondażem realizowanym realizowanym w 32 krajach w 32 krajach Europy, Europy, Azji, Australii Azji, Australii i obu Ameryk. i obu Ameryk. Sondaż Sondaż jest jest Information about the survey: przeprowadzany przeprowadzany poprzez poprzez ankiety ankiety on-lineon-line w grupie w grupie respondentów respondentów Employers’ Plans is a survey made by the Randstad Research Instiw wieku w wieku od 18 od do 18 64 do lat,64 pracujących lat, pracujących minimum minimum 24 godziny 24 godziny tute, in which the respondents employers – are asked about w tygodniu w tygodniu (z wykluczeniem (z wykluczeniem osób–samozatrudnionych). osób samozatrudnionych). the mostdla important areas of their activity. People interviewed Dobór Dobór prób prób badanych dla badanych populacji populacji jest przeprowadzany jest przeprowadzany przez przez for the survey instytut are those directly responsible for International. human resources międzynarodowy międzynarodowy instytut Survey Survey Sampling Sampling International. Próba Próba (in small companies it is the management or the firm’s owner). w Polsce w Polsce wynosiwynosi 405 respondentów 405 respondentów (w całym (w całym badaniu badaniu wzięłowzięło udziałudział survey carried out by TNS experts on a representative w tejThe fali w tej 13.967 fali was 13.967 osób). osób). sample of 1,000 companies in terms of their size and location. The interviews for the current 20th issue of the survey were conducted between October 17 and November 21, 2013.

Contact: Contact: Contact: Randstad Polska sp. z o.o. Randstad Randstad Polska Polska sp. zsp. o.o.z o.o. Al. Jerozolimskie 56c 00-803 Warsaw Al.www.randstad.pl/pracodawca Jerozolimskie Al. Jerozolimskie 56c 00-803 56c 00-803 Warszawa Warszawa tel.: 22 tel.: 462 22 25 462 00, 25 firma@pl.randstad.com 00, firma@pl.randstad.com tel.: 22 462 25 00 www.randstad.pl/pracodawca www.randstad.pl/pracodawca fax: 22 462 26 00 firma@pl.randstad.com

TALE OF TWO CITIES LIVING

THROUGH THE KEYHOLE

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

Nothing announces the disparities and contrasts of Warsaw more than its accommodation. Using fair means and foul, the Insider slips inside two local landmarks at opposite ends of the scaleâ&#x20AC;Ś

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

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TALE OF TWO CITIES LIVING

THE EYE FULL TOWER tower, and not all of it has been positive. Designed by Daniel Liebeskind, the development was initially promoted as a visionary landmark that would announce Warsaw’s coming of age. But the Łódź-born architect has faced increasing condemnation as work reaches its climax, with detractors critical of both the building’s ‘skin’ and its lack of similarity to the original visualization. But if the backlash has phased Orco, the developer, then it’s not showing. “I heard the criticism,” says Group COO, Nicolas Tommasini, “but I’m not sure it overwhelms the admiration of thousands. Anyway,” he adds mischievously, “aren’t such controversies the privilege of truly iconic buildings?” And iconic it certainly is – touting the most imaginative silhouette in the country, Europe’s tallest residential project represents the essence of luxury… with prices to reflect so – zł. 25,000-64,000 per sq/m. So far 60 of the 266 apartments have been snapped up, but Paweł Rogaliński, head of the marketing suite and concierge, is confident this will rise sharply. “Remember,” he says, “we are not just selling floor space, we’re selling a lifestyle.” The lifestyle he speaks of is an enviable one. Meeting Paweł at the mouth of the underground garage, we are whisked to the 50th floor, where a corridor opens out into a stunning marketing suite. The view is immense – eye level with the Palace of Culture, you feel you can reach out and grab it. Resisting the temptation to do so, we embark on a tour of the three ‘show’ apartments. Instantly, there is a realization that the hype is not hyperbole. Words cannot convey the sense of wonderment. Each flat we view has been designed to exhibit a realistic, ‘lived-in’ look, and as such we walk awestruck through apartments kitted out by London firm Woods Bagot to create the impression of occupancy by a young couple, a bachelor and an older family: even the kitchens have been stocked to add depth to this illusion. The finishes are extraordinary – kitchens are equipped with Gaggenau appliances, while Italian marble-clad bathrooms come complete with detectors that inform residents if so much as a millimeter of water falls out of the bath. In short, there’s no chance of being flooded by the wild celeb upstairs. The level of detail Paweł points out is exceptional – in one flat an overhanging oven light moves up and down at the flick of a button so as not to impede the view. In all apartments, an electronic home management system allows habitants to communicate demands to the concierge (“walk my dog, and order a limo while you’re at it”), monitor bills and view comings and goings to the tower. And, with this management system downloaded to an iPad, households can control all that goes on in their flat via remote control. “So if you’ve forgotten to switch off the lights,” says Paweł, “you can do so with your iPad.” We nod, taking this information in. The styling is sublime. Raw concrete ceilings and pillars have been intentionally left as they are, creating a gorgeous look that mixes urban chic with practical considerations. As Paweł regales us with stories of this self-contained world that’s been created, we press our noses to the window, allowing the reality of the everyday grind to melt away – the toy town below doesn’t know what it’s missing. (AW)

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

Much ink has been spilled as to the merits of the Złota

SOME LIKE IT SQUAT The mood at the squat is dark and potent. The night

before had seen its members clash with police as they tried to reclaim a nearby building their fellow squatters had been turfed out of. It had been an act of defiance and of unity, and it had failed. I was there to document squatter life and was interested in Syrena on Wilcza which had hit the headlines after coming under attack from neo-Nazis during November’s Independence Day riots. I was keen to see how the squatters live, hear about their experience of being under siege and to get an understanding of how they operate as a communal society. Making my way through the entrance and into a courtyard, I approach a man and a woman chopping up a door with an axe. A dog relieving itself in a corner spots me and begins barking angrily. The pair stop what they are doing and look up, suspicion oozing from the wreckage of their features. Cautiously I explain who I am and what I want. The man hefts his weapon and glances at a bike hanging from a barred window. A potty sort whose spiritual home is a padded cell, I guess. Then the woman speaks. “We can’t let you in. We need to have a communal meeting about it,” she says between puffs of a cigarette, adding the meetings take place every Tuesday. Today is a Thursday, deadline is Monday. Before I can explain, she speaks again. “You can’t come in. It’s time for you to leave.” She turns and leads her axe-cleaving friend back to the wood. I decide to enter the building anyway and, reasoning that the Empire hadn’t been built by men afraid of darkness, slip inside. Graffiti-covered walls line the stairwell and landings, each displaying a message of anarchical hope: “No Gods, No Masters” says one. “Reclaim the Streets” says another. And so on. All the doors to the rooms are missing and have been replaced by curtains. The squat’s website features a plan depicting a photography darkroom, a library and workshop, but before I can infiltrate these I hear a movement behind me. A blonde-haired man with a pink scarf and a smartphone has appeared. In the gloomy surroundings he cuts a dashing figure. At first, he is keen to speak, excited even. Articulate and animated, he says he wants to write a piece on the failed events of the night before. I later discover he works as an English teacher and is a graduate of Warsaw University. But as the conversation develops, he becomes agitated. He’s not from this squat, but from the one emptied last night. Glancing around nervously, he explains he doesn’t have “permission to speak”, before imploring me to leave. He takes my number and says he’ll talk to the Syrena leadership. But I never hear from him again. If the website, with its detailed layout map is accessible to all, the squat clearly isn’t. The plan for an intimate fly-on-the-wall documentary was in ruin. Yet, I came away with what I think was a greater insight. An anarchist community built on a strict pyramid of hierarchical leadership. A secretive group wary of outsiders and, equally, of their own members. A group that fights against what it sees as the oppressive nature of society by introducing their own equally oppressive rules governing who can say what and to whom. And one that struggles to balance the normal world of smartphone technology and capitalist working mores with a desire to overthrow it. It was time to beam me up, Squatty, and leave them to it. (EW)

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TALE OF TWO CITIES SHOPPING

BUYER STRAITS

PHOTOGRAPH TOP BY ALEX WEBBER, BOTTOM BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s browsing the privately run fashion emporiums of Mokotowska, or dipping into the treasure and trash of Bazar na Kole, Warsaw offers an invigorating alternative to the humdrum of the mall.

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

BUY ONE, GET ONE FLEA

MOKOTOWSKA MODE

“There are two things you need to remember,” explains

The most fashionable street in Warsaw is rather subtly hidden away on a curved stretch of cobblestones just a few steps south of the heavily trodden tourist track along Nowy Świat. Set between the bookend squares of Pl. Zbawiciela and Pl. Trzech Krzyży (P3K), it weaves through low-key cool and utterly conspicuous consumption with ease. The predictable starting point is the southern corner of P3K, flanked by world-class boutiques toting the likes of Zegna, Burberry and Ralph Lauren. Yet, as the logos of these premium brands have literally begun to fade and drop off, it’s apparent that there’s a great deal more exciting stuff down the street. A smattering of global-grade designer boutiques like Tara Jarmon (No. 63) and the freshly-baked Agent Provocateur (No. 59) flagship are recent additions, but the home-grown talent is where the action is. From Zień’s decadent Oscar-worthy gowns (also at No. 59), Tomasz Ossoliński’s gorgeous menswear tradition (No. 56) or Ania Kuczyńska’s highly-coveted minimalist aesthetic (No. 61), Poland’s most ambitious designers are making Mokotowska their primary destination. Robert Kupisz, the most talked-about designer-cumsocialite, has also made his style home here, catering to celebrity fashionistas out of his loft at No. 48. It certainly doesn’t hurt that there’s a spectacular wine bar just downstairs. In fact, the street is peppered with great places to grab a tipple and a bite to eat after an exhausting day of shopping - the fine elegance of Dyspensa (No. 39), the Cape Cod-esque cool of Flaming & Co. (No. 28) and the hipster chic of Przegryź (No. 52). “Mokotowska is returning to its former glory,” observes Kuczyńska. “I’m glad to see these remarkable changes in the heart of the city – and I’m glad my shop is influencing this change in the fabric of the city.” Multi-brand boutiques like See Me (No. 51/53) and Blind Concept (No. 63) offer a finely-edited selection of the hottest items of the season from the world’s coolest designers, such as Vince, Joseph, Paul&Joe. Just next door is Mimbla, its refined collection of children’s toys and books a welcome breath of fresh air from the fashionista surge. There’s also a sprinkling of jewelry shops, with dozens of trendy baubles shining in their glass showcases. Of course, Lilou (No. 63) presides above them all, having started from a tiny shop selling charm bracelets just a few years ago to an accessory emporium that takes up nearly half a block. While it may be true that the area doesn’t see as much foot traffic as it deserves, the shopping experience here is vastly more interesting than strolling the mall, if only for the sake of admiring the glorious original architecture that managed to survive the onslaught of history. As we approach Plac Zbawiciela, the boutiques along Mokotowska start to thin out - save the rock-chic home of Ewelina Kustra’s She’s a Riot signature label - and Koszykowa takes over with its slick multi-brand shops. L’Aura, Flash, Frank A and the recently-opened Frank Y (Mokotowska No. 26, Koszykowa No. 31 & Natolińska No. 3) give Warsaw a dose of the Parisian fashion experience. So whether you’re looking for a pair of Jimmy Choo pumps at Snobissimo (No. 28) or frilly lingerie and a Rihanna-worthy whip at Horn & More, Mokotowska’s style scene is definitely hot enough to ease the bitter chill of winter. (AMG)

Marcin, “first, the early bird gets the worm, and second, paying the asking price means you’re over-paying.” It’s with these words ringing round my Sunday morning hangover that we begin our trawl of Bazar na Kole (ul. Obozowa 99). While nostalgic natives still lament the passing of the Russian Market, Bazar na Kole has always been home to the real bargain hunters. This is particularly true each Sunday, when the premises dedicates itself to goods of vintage history. Marcin, an obsessive hoarder of what he terms ‘treasure’, has been visiting Kole for the last ten years, making monthly trips from his home in Radom. He assures me he is not unique in this. “I’ve met people who live far further afield,” he states, “who’ve been coming down here for well over twenty years – and they’re the tip of the iceberg.” I look around, scanning what on first sight appears to be a soggy tent city. What is it that compels people to travel the length of Poland to spend Sunday morning here? The answer reveals itself in the twenty minutes it takes for us to skirt the perimeter. For it is in that time something special happens: I become hopelessly addicted – and that’s way before we’ve even began rummaging, let alone haggling. Considerably smaller than Europe’s more celebrated flea markets, Bazar na Kole is a window to another time. Traders turn up before daylight, unpacking their rusting vans and battered 90’s issue Mercs, before spreading their loot across blankets and wobbling stalls. Their swag of collectibles and forgettables is not eclectic – it goes well beyond that. As we move in ever-decreasing circles towards the market’s center point, we pass all manner of relics: menorahs, a full suit of armor (zł. 2,500 yells a trader), cavalry sabers, inter-war postcards and pre-war coins. Entering a cramped little hut, its shelves crammed with vinyl (remember Wishbone Ash, anyone?), I spot a dented alarm clock, its face embossed with an eagle and swastika. But in truth, this just scratches the surface. There is no end to the oddities. Soviet, Polish and Nazi militaria are well represented, but so too is chinaware from an unspecified time, stamp books, religious icons and other such detritus. A red velvet banner of Lenin hangs limply from a pile of empty crates, and on the stall next to it, I note some Soviet era toy trucks next to a pile of hand grenades. For all this, there’s no shortage of what can be best described as junk – a pile of worn stockings, not to mention a creepy lazy-eyed doll that would be better off in an occult museum. As we walk away, I can feel it mocking me with its smile. And, in a nod to the market’s usual function, don’t be surprised to find a couple of statement fashion pieces: e.g., a pullover that’s more Dolce & Banana than the Dolce & Gabbana it purports to be. Yet despite the fakes and the forgeries, which are prolific in number, there’s something very real about Kole – something you won’t find in the glittery malls or Mokotowska boutiques. There’s an atmosphere of adventure. There’s an excitement here and an element of discovery that appeals to all forms of life. “I’ve seen so many Polish celebrities down here,” says Marcin, “and they all wear a disguise that says ‘I want to be noticed but am pretending I don’t want to be’.” But it’s no surprise that they’re here – they’re here for the magic… and the treasure. (AW)

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TALE OF TWO CITIES BARS

TWO FOR THE ROAD

Warsaw thrives on variety, a fact illustrated by the diversity of its bar scene. Using the cover of the night, we check two polar opposites: the pavilions and Mazowiecka…

Saturday, 5 p.m. You begin to wonder what the fuss is

about. Mazowiecka is empty. Cars zip past in a blur, and the one sign of life on the street is a crooked old tramp looking sheepish in a doorway. Yet in the next few hours the street will undergo a magical transformation – from sedate side street to Warsaw’s dance floor. Of course, there are more prestigious addresses than those found on Mazowiecka – between them, you feel The Eve, Platinium and Foksal XVIII have cornered the rich and pretty sector. But nowhere else in Warsaw will you find a higher collection of bubbles and beauties per square meter, for it is on Mazowiecka the capital’s nightlife convokes en masse in one great, glamorous bang. It wasn’t always this way. At the start of the millennium this was a rundown street comprised of scratched, smudged facades and a saucy little peep show. But just look at it now – come witching hour, taxis have to inch through the Kardashian wannabes as they bounce from bar to bar. So what happened? In a word, Paparazzi. When they launched in 2003, Warsaw’s first proper cocktail bar lit a fire under the city. Paparazzi was not a passing comet, however. Ten years on and it still swarms out – some use it as a starting platform for the evening ahead, others base their whole night around it forgetting to leave once the first drinks are ordered. The cocktails remain a yardstick for the rest of Warsaw, and you can’t fault their approach to smoking:

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

their attitude to the habit is go right ahead. It is for her clubs, though, that Mazowiecka has now become famous: Organza, Room 13, Watch Me and Mono Bar to mention a few. Then there’s The Bank, a club of colossal size, not to mention Enklawa – years on, it’s still renowned as the liveliest Wednesday in town. Stone-jawed centurions guard the queues that form outside each, while clipboard wielding door selectors separate the wheat from the chaff. Their door cull is cutthroat, and the sight of crashing egos is a draw in itself. The party doesn’t end with the clubs. Having extracted yourself from the dance floors, many use the opportunity for one drink for luck in commie-themed Meta. Making their way past gridlocked cabs, the sound of whopping and wolf whistles ringing in the distance, the hardcore saddle up in Meta for a final shot of vodka in this last chance saloon. With the first cracks of light already appearing, it’s time for that last big hurrah.

SKID ROW And to think, to the untrained eye, it all looks so

ordinary: pass Nowy Świat on any given night and it’s an entirely predictable affair – bored looking bus queues, business trip foreigners in tourist trap restaurants, and scented boys and girls making their way to the bars of Foksal. It’s a scene that repeats itself each night, and no matter how good looking the people, it soon becomes tiresome. Visit Nowy Świat a couple of times and you learn the

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

MILLIONAIRES' ROW

meaning of Groundhog Day. So, to new arrivals, the narrow passageway on Nowy Świat 26 is like passing through the looking glass. All of a sudden, the refined, respectable Warsaw high street you’ve left behind is replaced by an alternative world of swirling smoke and cackling laughter. You have entered The Pavilions. Looking jumbled and sounding chaotic, it takes a second or two to adjust. Or, more pertinently, a shot or two. And you’ll find these in abundance. Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest condensation of bars in the capital. While, seen from a birds eye perspective, this collection of pavilions form an upside-down T-shape, from the ground they feel almost maze-like. Emanating a warm glow, reddish lights pour from the windows, glinting off the puddles that invariably collect in the shattered paving slabs. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. And the reason for that goes further than the thrifty attitude to lighting – many have sidestepped smoking regulations by reinventing themselves as sheesha bars. But it is wrong to call these bars duplicates of each other. In Kafefajka, exiled Turks gather to play rackety dice games, scattering peanut shells on the floor while perched under sails that hang from the ceiling. There’s Kociarnia, with its cat motif, and PRL-themed Pewex – a DJ I recognize from my days getting spangled in Luzztro is mucking about on a set of decks downstairs. Or is that in the next door bar? In Fuego,

meanwhile, I run into an old friend whose running the place along with a few Turkish mates. I haven’t seen him in years, and there’s bear hugs all round as he breaks out the shots. Boom Boom Room sits round the corner. Tarantino quotes adorn the walls, along with deactivated weapons and cartoons of Thurman. It’s the classiest place in the complex, and the cocktails mirror this pretense. But out of all these, there is one venue that has elevated itself into lore: Klaps. Warsaw’s smuttiest bar is garishly garnished with dildo beer taps and luminous plastic boobs. And that’s just the ground floor. The basement gets even weirder, and is one big chortle: an immense mosaic of a bare breasted Amazon looks out to the toilet, while in the smoking room, the metalwork trimmings come stenciled with phalluses. Is it really a surprise that Gangbang is the house cocktail? Yet for all these many quirks and eccentricities, it is the people who make it what it is. Everywhere we go, drinkers are accosting the photographer: what’s this for, where are you guys from, do you like it here… their openness is a rare find. And while it’s easy to write off the pavilions as a student zone, that would be a lazy conclusion to draw. Of course, it’s heavily slanted towards more youthful drinkers, but in truth it attracts just about anyone after a bleary night out: I think to the time I met a Polish veteran who talked misty-eyed about his Battle of Britain days. Or the Australian tea tycoon who would insist on conducting high powered meetings here and nowhere else – to my knowledge, his business went down the tubes, but he sure had a good time at those meetings. And that, I like to think, is the point of the pavilions. facebook.com/warsawinsider

TALE OF TWO CITIES ART

What are the most common themes in Polish contemporary art? I don’t think there are any. Contemporary art is interesting for its direct connection to daily life. Anything that is an object of our everyday lives can become the subject of a piece, as can everything that is happening around us, from ideas, to politics to events and even mass media culture. This counteracts the view that contemporary art is hard to understand. Perhaps, ironically, it can be too easy to understand sometimes, although requiring an openness of mind. What attitude do Poles have towards contemporary art, and art in general? In my opinion, it’s improving, however, indisputably, Poles are a nation of the word, the letter. That which is written is understandable. We didn’t get a chance to get used to art, due to isolation, distance, being stuck on the periphery of the West, difficulties in travel, etc. We didn’t get a chance to create our own collections nor learn from others. This can cause a chasm with regards to perceptions of contemporary art, and so requires a greater openness of mind that the younger generations are definitely demonstrating.

The Insider talks to Hanna Wróblewska, director of the Zachęta National Gallery about contemporary Polish art and why contemporary art can sometimes be too easy to understand. BY KAROLINA KALINOWSKA WI: What are the characteristics of Warsaw art? Polish art, even? HW: It’s hard to speak about solely ‘Warsaw art’, it’s more Polish art that’s relevant. Unfortunately the reality is such that Poland is a Warsawcentered country. Since I started working here 20 years ago, I’ve been witnessing artists and even whole galleries move to Warsaw. This is of course very convenient for those living here… but not so much for the art or for those outside Warsaw.

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

How does the gallery engage Varsovians? Apart from exhibitions, of course, we have a series of classes and events such as the Open Day with special events and free entry. What is perhaps most relevant to Varsovians now is that we, in conjunction with the other institutions around the Małachowski Square, are trying to bring it back for public enjoyment from its current role as a parking lot. So what’s the selling point of Zachęta Gallery compared to world-famous institutions? It’s an exciting repertoire! But besides that, its unique history. From the outset, the building was built in order to exhibit art. It was never adapted to be an art gallery. Also, it is one of the few buildings that wholly survived the bombings of WWII. Often, both willingly and unwillingly, it is a place that has, through showcasing art, had political events unfold here too. In fact, few art institutions are so tied to the political situation of the time. For more about the Zachęta see: www.zacheta.art.pl

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE MARIUSZ SZACHOWSKI, OPPOSITE COURTESY OF THE ARTIST

IN THE GALLERY

Just like Poland, Zachęta experienced changes and transformations. How is it angled today? We are both evolving and remaining constant. We remain constant in our approach to displayed art – since the beginning, Zachęta aimed to show contemporary art, in all its manifestations. Of course, 150 years ago, the art contemporary to those times was very different to now. What is perhaps changing over the recent years is that we want a variety of people to have the chance to visit – this includes senior citizens, disabled individuals and those with visual impairments. Of course, not everything is for everyone. We have exhibits angled at more sophisticated recipients as well as so-called ‘blockbusters’ for the wider public, such as the recent In God We Trust.

FROM THE STREETS Breaking the stereotype, NeSpoon is not your typical ‘street artist’. Married, and a

dedicated mother, she only works in daylight hours, is active in her community and has travelled all over the world to place her art. BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS WI: So go on, where did it all begin… NS: I am NeSpoon from Warsaw. I always say I was reborn in 2009. I started working with clay and at the same time found myself surrounded by lace. People always ask why lace? I wasn’t so sure, but I felt it was lace that found me. Do you have a formal art education? No, but aged 10-15 I went to a school in Berlin that supported the arts. I always loved to paint with oils. After many years in a 9-5 job I gave in to my creativity and returned to art. Most people think they can’t do it, and they don’t do it. When you don’t try you will never get where you want to go. I now feel on the right side of my life. So why did you take your art to the street? After filling my friends and families homes with ceramics I still had so much. I started to notice that lace did not need a cup or plate. I could unravel it or use the lace as stencils. I began to understand the lace had an aesthetic code of symmetry, order and harmony that pleased me. In one minute I saw the city as a gallery needing harmony. Is there a message in your art? Lots of people email me and say they feel my art is connected to Mandala traditions. I see my work makes me happy and it can make others happy too.

How do you see Warsaw’s approach to street art? I would like to see more art and fewer advertisements on our architecture. Unlike Łódź, Warsaw does not have so much wall space for art. Warsaw needs to think carefully about its billboards and green spaces. It needs to do more to offer people and artist’s opportunity and space for expression. Does your teenage daughter follow your artistic passion? My daughter has always been exposed to my art and met fellow artists. It was ceramic faces for children that I first put on the street. But she has her own dream; one day she would like to win the Nobel Prize in physics or chemistry. I always say that’s a great idea! Where would you like to be in 5 years from now? Oh, I have a plan. I want to make large scale lace/web installations and use lights. I want it to be on a grassy area where people can picnic and relax. My dream is for it to be in the center of Warsaw, near the Palace of Culture! But I might have to settle for Berlin first where ideas are realized at a faster tempo. Bureaucracy in this city can mean plans take a long time, you never know how long you might have… I say jump where you want! For more NeSpoon see: www.behance.net/NeSpoon facebook.com/warsawinsider

FOODIE NEWS A collaboration between two of Warsaw’s best known restaurant blogs (restaurantica.pl and froblog.pl), Warsaw Foodie has emerged as the No. 1 site for local food related stories. Featuring all the latest from the foodie frontline, the bilingual Warsaw Foodie promises the hottest news on what’s trending on the restaurant radar. For more info, check: www.warsawfoodie.pl/en Kaskrut

Exotica

Promising ‘a taste of sunny Florida’, La Chica Sandwicheria (Obrzeżna 5B) presents the flavors of the sunshine state to a cheery backdrop of pineapples, coconuts and citrus fruit. The Caribbean plays a significant part on the menu, with highlights including the Cubano sandwich (pulled pork marinated in Cuban mojo) and the Tango Mango (grilled chicken with fresh mango).

Foodie Top 5 Foodies in Warsaw have their favorite places, venues

Opasły Tom PIW (Foksal 17) The amazing signature dishes of Agata Wojda are presented

on both an a la carte and tasting menu, and are competently twinned by a carefully selected wine list. Every new menu of Agata’s is first tasted by local foodies with the results and info then shared on social platforms and amongst friends.

Kaskrut (Poznańska 5) Whatever the day, you’re guaranteed to find local foodies congregating in Kaskrut. After much searching chef Adam Leszczyński has finally found a home in which his creativity is given free reign. And all it seems appreciate his experimental cuisine, weekly changing menu and, of course, the prices – which don’t go north of zł. 30. Norma (Wierzbowa 9/11) Recently opened, Norma has already caused a stir and been firmly installed as a foodie favorite. It’s here that Kuba Korczak, a well-known Slow Food enthusiast and evangelist, presents his signature dishes. His creativity and use of honest Polish produce makes this a place no foodie should miss. Solec (Solec 44) The kingdom of Aleksander Baron. This young, charismatic chef offers

original and innovative flavors while at the same time respecting culinary traditions. His specialty dishes are those made utilizing ‘the fifth quarter’ (i.e., offal), with the chef using the knowledge he gained working in Scotland to full effect.

Concept 13 (Bracka 9) Specifically, we refer to the affordable lunch deal on offer at Concept 13 – it’s something foodies just can’t overlook. Chef Dariusz Barański presents five dishes that change each day, with the results often likened to art. The price of this is pegged at zł. 50, representing one of the best deals in the city.

A Load of Waffle

Waffle Bar (al. Jerozolimskie 4), specializes in you know what, with home recipes used in a menu that features a series of sweet and savory waffles. Toppings include roasted apple with mascarpone. The savory side is covered by such winners as Angus beef, coriander, mint and cheddar, or salmon, wasabi, cucumber and romaine lettuce.

It’s a… Scandal!

Taking the place of what was Czarna.bar is Skandal (Sienkiewicza 4), a bistro / wine bar run by the same team behind Leniviec on Poznańska. According to the owners, we can expect something ‘cozy and relaxed’. Renovation was still being carried out at press time, so keep your eyes on warsawfoodie.pl for the latest news.

Castro Returns Martin Gimenez Castro, who became a household name after winning the Top-

Chef TV show at the end of 2013, will become the new Executive Chef of Salto. The Argentinean has resided in Poland for seven years, and had previously worked in the acclaimed Hoża by Mondovino. Found in the Rialto Hotel, Salto is scheduled to open sometime in February.

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WARSAW FOODIE EXCEPT TOP LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA

where qualities such as seasonality, top produce and the chef’s creativity are not just appreciated but celebrated – and now, it’s not just fine dining haunts that offer such an experience. With 2013 boxed off, Warsaw Foodie looks back at five casual, affordable restaurants that thrilled us in the year just gone.

Reviews: Norma 31/ Madras 46 Plus:

* 32 updates

RESTAURANTS

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

AFRICAN 32 / AMERICAN 32 / ASIAN 32 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 34 / BRITISH 34 / BURGERS 35 / CHEAP EATS 36 / COOKING SCHOOLS 59 / CUBAN 38 / FOOD SHOPS 58 / FRENCH 38 / GERMAN 38 /GREEK & TURKISH 38 / HOME DELIVERY 34 / INDIAN 40 / INTERNATIONAL 41 / ITALIAN 48 /JAPANESE & SUSHI 50 / LATIN 51 / MIDDLE EASTERN 54 / POLISH 54 / SCANDINAVIAN 58 / WHOLE FOODS 59

“ His menu is an inventive presentation of natural, local produce...”

Insider’s Pick

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX WEBBER

ames are important – they set expectations and build hopes. So Norma confused me a bit. Was it named after the opera? Or maybe Norma Jean Baker? Maybe, I thought, it was named so because it was one letter short of normal. After two visits, I’m still none the wiser. Does that bother me? Not anymore. Whatever the etymology of the name, the bottom line is this is a good restaurant – very good, in fact, it verges on fantastic.

Split into a few rooms, diners step in to find neutral, natural colors offset by Walton Ford paintings depicting wild, tethered animals, and warm lighting provided by way of bare bulbs that hang from ropes draped around the rafters. It’s a soothing environment that has casual dining in mind. But what of the menu. That’s been conceived by chef Kuba Korczak, a familiar name to slow food enthusiasts. His menu is an inventive presentation of natural, local produce, and includes subtle influences from both Italy and Asia. For starters,

we opt for a pumpkin soup and kaszanka (blood pudding). I don’t like kaszanka, so I’ve no idea why I ordered it – impulse? Whatever the case, I’m glad I did. The flavors are deep and rich, with the kaszanka topped with a heavy smudge of red onion and raspberry jam. It’s gorgeous. And so too is the soup: thick enough to float a coin, the velvety texture is contrasted by crunchy Jerusalem artichokes that settle on the top. For mains, I opt for what is described as smoked goose breast / tagliatelle /

pecorino. The goose is brilliantly tender, and well matched with the pasta. But, curses, my course is outshined by the cod ordered by the Mrs. On its own the fish would have been a success, but served on a bed of celery and apple puree the result is a superb main rolling in strong, unique flavors. While dessert had not been part of the plan, neither of us could resist seeing if Norma’s form could hold for the concluding course. It does. For me, it’s goat cheese / baked apple / chili, for her, vanilla cream / pear jam / matured olive oil. Discussing the merits of both, we hit an impasse deciding whose is superior: both are tremendous. And, in both cases, portions are modest, yet feel ‘just right’. There’s none of that awkward belchy, bloat factor that’s so common round town. That the bill is so moderate just adds to the thrill (starters oscillate between zł. 20-30, mains from around zł. 25-50). If there is a complaint, it’s the heat. With the radiator ratcheted up to Gas Mark 5, dining becomes a test of endurance, rather than the absolute pleasure befitting of the food. And yes, the cooking is largely a work of brilliance. While Kaskrut breezed the Casual Dining category at our Best of Warsaw awards, you get the idea that had Norma opened weeks earlier, it would have genuinely given our jury some tough questions to ponder. Even so, unless the kitchen explodes or the building falls down, I fully expect them to be winning a gong in 2014 – it’s a joy. (AW) Norma ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 828 0130, open 12:00-23:00, www.restauracjanorma.pl

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RESTAURANTS KEY $ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

Best of Warsaw Award Winner 2013

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl Café

Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.lamama.eu Sprayed with racist graffiti over summer, it was heartening to see the local community rally round in support of the owners. As for food, that’s an authentic rundown of dishes that include baked cow back and gizzard. Unfortunately, it’s just not to our taste: the goat stew felt like one big mistake. Judging by the repeat custom, not everyone shares our view. $$

AMERICAN Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, open 9:00-24:00, www.jeffs.pl Head to Jeff’s for supersize portions from the ribs and wings class. Portions might be big, but don’t anticipate any further thrills with regards to the food. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri & Sat 11:0023:00; Sun 11:00-22:00, www.sioux.com. pl You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, open Mon & Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.tgifridays.pl/ warszawa The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120, open 9:00-21:00 One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:3022:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes to an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws. Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging

about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices. Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ InAzia (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705, open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00; Sun 12:30-16:30, www.restauracja-inazia.pl The Sheraton has a rich history of serving some of Warsaw’s best Asian food, with chef Marcin Sasin creating a menu that draws on influences as diverse as Indonesian, Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, the experience is worth the quite considerable splurge. $$$

Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, open 11:00-23:00, www.natara.pl Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck. Highly recommended. $$ Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, open 12:0023:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 Not to be defeated by the closure of Sunanta, Bangkok chef Chanunkan Dunagkumma makes a quick return to this cookery lark with Naam Thai. While spices have been blanded down to fit the local palette, it’s been a promising start. Look for the roast duck soup – made according to a closely guarded secret family recipe. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:0024:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise

lines and slick finishes, Papaya have softened the interiors a little, giving the aesthetics a less rigid look. The menu is a considerable success and includes sushi, kobe beef and a much talked about Peking duck. Our advice, however, is to check out Poland’s only teppanyaki grill. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, open 12:00-22:00, www.pekinduck.pl Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, open 12:00-22:30. shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai,

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl. Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl. Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob Home of as theRain Thursday inc. players such by India Curry, Curry Club Osteria, Warsaw Papaya and Sakana.

but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-2:00, www.silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, open 10:00-21:00, www.suparomthaifood. pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:0023:00, www.thaithai.pl Sanad Changpuen, a man widely credited with popularizing Thai food in Poland, returns to Warsaw with predictable results: the food is a hit. And what a space this acclaimed chef has been blessed with: gold vaulted ceilings lend a muted glow to a largely black-on-black space; from the walls, serene looking Buddha’s peer on diners down below. At once, the soothing interiors ease guests into a state of inner peace while Sanad does the rest. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the levels one expects. $$ Yummy (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 797 830 639, open 10:00-21:00, www.restauracjayummy.pl The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious and the pad thai is a sure bet. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalwart who’ve moved with the times and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, open 12:00-22:00, www.gemorestaurant.pl At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has a severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $

U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices that all bank accounts can support. On a grim sleety day, chef Gabor’s signature goulash makes winter not just manageable, but welcome! $

BRITISH The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster

since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

there who remain fiercely loyal to their quite considerable offer. On our part, the Insider remains partial to the occasional Muppet Burger: a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. By the time you’ve finished with it, the wooden board it’s served on will look like Jack the Ripper has just passed through town. $

BURGERS

Bobby Burger (C4) ul. E. Plater 47, tel. 785 833 603, pen 12:00-22:00, bobbyburger.pl Perplexingly popular with hipsters who wouldn’t know a good burger if their skinny jeans depended on it. Now sporting a new location (the old one on Żurawia also continues, alas), this bottom feeder continues to prove popularity isn’t always a measure of quality. $

Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:00-21:00, www.barnburger.pl What finished summer 2012 as Warsaw’s most talked about burger has seen its stock nosedive somewhat. Even so, you’ll still find several people out

Brooklyn Burgers & Wings (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:004:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 There are those out there who claim Brooklyn to be the best burger in Warsaw – and we’re not talking about hipsters on longboards, but American

ex-pats who really know the score. And yes, what you get with Brooklyn is something very good indeed – maybe not the best, but in a city with quite probably 70-odd burger bars, it’s certainly Top 3. That’s largely thanks to Alan, a young American chef wholly dedicated to his job. Homemade sauces, wings, ribs, strips and beer (inc. Sam Adams!). $

Burger Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Wed 7:3023:00; Thu-Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00, www.burgerkitchen.pl Opened at a time when most burgeristas had already sworn allegiance to their favorite, the opening of Burger Kitchen surprised everyone. Celebrity chef Tomek Woźniak clocked 64,000 kilometers checking out global street food trends, and his painstaking research is evidenced in Warsaw’s best burgers. Indestructible in architecture, these blighters come in brioche-style buns and with own-brand ketchup that utilizes 24 different

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RESTAURANTS Italian tomatoes. It’s the undisputed No. 1 in town, and also notable for steaks, shakes and brilliant breakfasts. $ Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet. Ćwierćfunciak (C1) ul. Andersa 30, tel. 799 328 822, open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Hidden in the gastronomic wasteland of Muranów, the impossibly named Ćwierćfunciak impresses with slathers of gloriously fresh ingredients, not to mention complimentary sides of hand-cut chips. Ranked in the Insider’s Top 5 best burger joints, that the resident beers are sourced from Pinta earns this friendly local a few extra points. $

Między Bułkami (D4)

Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159, open 11:00-23:00 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition (at least till Burger Kitchen came along), this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $ Queen Burger (E5) ul. Hoża 1a, tel. 733 142 492, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00 A new face over summer, and one joyously received by Warsaw’s burger aficionados. The look screams US roadside diner, but

inside it’s all young city style mavens. The choice extends to house specialties such as gringo, teriyaki and femiburger, though our advice to meatheads is to simply stick to the classic cheeseburger: it’s a towering stack of ultra-satisfaction. We’ve experienced nightmarish waiting times, but like WarBurger, that’s just added proof they’re doing something very right. $

CHEAP EATS Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001, open daily 11:0022:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Diner 55 (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 Here’s the sort of alliance we like to see: Diner 55 brings together Rico’s

Our bar oﬀers more than 700 kinds of branded spirits and the longest list of champagnes in Poland. Our chefs oﬀer a wide range of seafood and specialties of Polish cuisine, as well Kobe beef steak or New York style steak! Ignite your senses with tempting food and superior drinks in an exclusive atmosphere. 20% discount with a copy of the Warsaw Insider Open 7 days a week from 4:00 pm till the last guest.

NEW ORLEANS Bar & Restaurant

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

Warszawa, ul. Zgoda 11 tel. +48 600 063 667

www.neworleans.pl info@neworleans.pl

Tacos, Mr Pancake and Panburger under one roof. But you may need to be of a certain age to enjoy it – operating a hipster only policy (not really, but you get the point), it’s loud, dark and full of fashionable kids. Waiting times can be silly, as well. $ Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. ul. Waryńskiego 9, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. fabrykafrytek.pl Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00 Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $

Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.groole.pl You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Justyna’s Secret Recipes (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 138, open Mon-Fri 7:0021:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. www.jsecretrecipes.com We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain. Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread. The delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $

Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:0023:00, www.manekin.pl Originally founded in

Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – at times, queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), and most agree they’re worth the ridiculous waiting times - waits in excess of 20 minutes (and considerably more) are the norm. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl An eco-minded sandwich stop, this intimate basement has a smart wooden look and friendly staff notable for their daring body art. The home-baked baguettes are the star, and come with a range of organic ingredients complimented with thick cuts of top quality animal. Roast beef, pulled pork and porchetta are just a few of your options. $ Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.plLurking amid the side

CARPACCIO ul. Nowy Świat 36, 22 692 47 26

Classic Italian cuisine: the delicious, honest tastes of a true trattoria

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RESTAURANTS streets of Powiśle, the pancakes here are brilliant and come with a heap of toppings and funny faces traced into them with icing sugar. Who cares if the staff wander around like they’ve just smoked a bong – it’s great. $ Soul Food Bus ul. Marynarska 11, tel. 513 609 480, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 501 201 975, open Mon-Sun 12:30-20:30 You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www. chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $ Wheel Meal www.facebook.com/wheelmealpl A Mexican food truck whose location varies with the day – check their Facebook. They’re worth tracing as the burritos are certainly a candidate for Warsaw’s best: and the sauces tingle as well. $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open

Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them. The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

CUBAN El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994, open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

FRENCH

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl French food just hasn’t broken through in Warsaw in the way other European cuisines have. So Francophiles are indebted, somewhat, to the existence of L’Arc, a place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude to seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$

GERMAN Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

GREEK & TURKISH Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open 12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$

Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value on things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milefi dessert is magic. All of a sudden, their longevity makes sense. $$

Le Cedre 84

Le Cedre 61

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99 lecedre84@lecedre.pl

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

Taste the Exotic

www.lecedre.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

PARMIZZANO’S – LITTLE ITALY IN WARSAW 45-minutowy lunch od poniedzia³ku do pi¹tku w godzinach 12:00-15:00 2 dania w cenie 55 PLN, 3 dania w cenie 65 PLN. Codziennie nowe menu. 45-minute lunch from Monday to Friday 12:00 AM-3:00 PM 2 courses at 55 PLN, 3 courses at 65 PLN. New menu everyday.

WARSAW MARRIOTT HOTEL Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 00-697 Warszawa Rezerwacje/Reservations: +48 22 630 5096 www.warsawmarriott.com, www.warsawmarriott.pl

RESTAURANTS Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:0024:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard, communal table. So the surprise here is the food – Turkish. And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish! It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. And the desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

INDIAN

Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl Ringed by offices and five star hotels, Bombaj Masala thrives in its role as an upmarket Indian restaurant – and yes, it’s nice to see Indian restaurants moving away from the Santa’s Grotto look. For all that, most agree Bombaj is over-priced and over-rated. $$

Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:0024:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-24:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef Ram knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $

Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al. Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:00-22:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows and seating inside a glorified allweather tent) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $

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Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, open 12:00-22:00, www.ganesh.pl To tell the story of Ganesh is to tell the story of what could have been. After a scintillating start which saw it declared one of the best curries ever, Ganesh find themselves trapped in a backward motion, with quality sacrificed in exchange for an aggressive expansion right across Poland. Looking chic and dark, it’s arguably one of the best looking Indian restaurants there is. But the food, oh dear. A convention of the New Warsaw Curry Club saw it score a collective 5/10, with particular lowlights including the discovery of a ‘thing’ in the murgh makhanawala – was it bone? A thumbnail? We’re none the wiser. $$ Himalaya Momo ul. Ząbkowska 36, tel. 22 297 2100, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-21:30, www.himalayamomo.com There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor oven. What kind of Indian

restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl Keen, supersize portions and an efficient home delivery service (indiaexpress.pl) have made this lot something of a bookmark. Not dissimilar from the curries you may have survived on as a student, Mandala are cheap and decent, though several rungs below the top curries in town – it’s an ok means to an end. $ Namaste India (D1 & D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. 22 635 7766, open 10:30-23:00, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. namasteindia.pl A ferociously loyal customer base proclaim this as their favorite curry in town. Highly recommended, find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and

a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Ray Bridgeford, the former owner of the legendary Sense, is the man behind the miraculous resuscitation of India Curry. Fresh contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy aesthetic, but it’s the menu that’s become the talk of the expats. Our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in ANY Indian restaurant, but that’s not all… lending this place serious credentials as Warsaw’s best Indian are a feisty vindaloo and initiatives such as the Thursday night Rain Curry Club (zł. 69 for curry, breads and starters), and their zł. 25 Tiffins lunch deals. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com.pl The legendary Tandoor Palace is dead! From the ashes, rises Tandoor. It’s not just the interiors that have been modernized, but

the menu – start with the pea and basil soup, a thick warming broth, before moving to the chicken sholay kebab… coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. For mains, the murgh duo is equally artistic and even better in taste. Traditionalists will approve as well: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable chicken tikka butter masala. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 4/Czwarte ul. Piaseczynska 71, tel. 22 100 3139, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.4czwarte. pl 4/Czwarte sits smack in the middle of Warszawianka’s 29 tennis courts. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it can be rather motivating to eat and drink to the plop of the tennis balls. Chef Kinga Araucz brings a fresh eye to food in Warsaw, and her modern menu combines well with the pleasantly congenial atmosphere and sharp interior. $$ 12 Stolików ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 795 373 815, open

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RESTAURANTS 9:00-23:00 Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater. The menu is chalked on a board, and while alio olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$ Akademia (E9) ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11, open MonSat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. restauracjaakademia.pl The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public. But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$

Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.bistecca.pl It happened so suddenly. Warsaw went from meat loser to meat lover in the space of a year. Bistecca, opened over 2 years ago, was one of the early pioneers, and to date remains one of the best. That people travel from well outside Wilanów to sample its delights speaks volumes. Pride of place goes to their signature Bistecca steak: a one kilo T-Bone shaped joint with strip steak

on one side and tenderloin on the other. For the thrill of DIY tableside cooking, order one of their ‘various kinds of meat grilled over volcanic stone’. Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of parkland. The menu is Mediterranean in style with strong hints of Italian, though how they fare having lost their French chef Luc remains to be seen. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel are outstanding, but what catches the attention of the ex-pats is the English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel. The Friday fish & chips win emphatic approval. The Sunday roast lacks gravy and consistency, and you may find yourself asking for extra red wine sauce to moisten the Yorkshire Pudding – but it’s worth the chance; when everything goes right it’s utterly victorious. $$$ Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 532 749 160, open

Mon-Thu 11:30-2:00; Sat 15:00-5:00, www.bufetcentralny.pl With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design. The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$

Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$

By The Way Bottega Kulinarna (E3) ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. 22 692 7239, open 12:00-22:00, www.bytheway.com.pl Everything here looks fantastic – the pared down interiors with their concrete greys and houndstooth touches, and the food. Oh yes, the food. There’s about five mains to hover on, the highlight being the duck breast. The meringue dessert is heaven, as well. $$

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce. Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

"Thanks to all our guests in 2013" - Signature Restaurant

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RESTAURANTS Bydło i Poidło (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Filled with rawhide and industrial undertones, this grown-up version of Bydło i Powidło (see Burgers), has its accent on more high-end meats: and by that we mean steaks. Hopefully, they’re an improvement on the ones served by their sister – we’ll be visiting soon to see. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct: five course set lunch menus from zł. 50, served between 11:00 and 16:00. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:0024:00, www.derelefant.com A Titanic-sized restaurant with a disorganized menu that appears to have been devised by throwing darts at a cookbook: Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc. But if the menu is blurry, the cooking isn’t: it’s average/ acceptable to very good. The interiors are a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles, and frequently pack out to the rafters with families and other unwieldy groups. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel,

level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don't for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Duchnicka Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, duchnickawinebar. com Michał Budnik, a rising star with a bright future ahead, excels in this loft-style warehouse. His exciting menu includes cappuccino soup, and a totally triumphant rack of lamb. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ The Harvest (L12) Domaniewska 34A (Ambassador Office

Building), tel. 660 750 600, open MonThu 12:00-24:00, Fri Sat 12:00-last guest, www.theharvest.pl A muted design of charcoal colors and concrete surfaces sets the scene for an upmarket experience exclusively enjoyed by the suit and tie brigade. Despite the corporate circle jerk, some of the food is bewilderingly good – the filet Rossini is pure luxury. True, you get the idea that chef Robert Trzópek (formerly El Bulli, Noma), has been told, “look bud, no crazy stuff out there,” but the lack of innovation is a minor quibble. We’ve been told once this newbie settles a bit to expect a more creative tasting menu. $$$

Hoża by Mondovino (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Jasna 24 (D4) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 24 41, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0020:00, www.jasna24.pl Slick, modern and loungey in look, Jasna 24 has a creative menu that include the use of deliciously unexpected combinations. Roll up on Wednesday’s if you prefer your dinner served with a slice of live music. $$

A fresh taste of Italy in the heart of Poland

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1 | JANUARY 2014 44Insider_VP.indd WARSAW INSIDER

UL. Taśmowa 7 TeL: +48 22 356 10 50 warszawa@vapiano.pl

aL. jerozoLimskie 63 (róg z e.PLaTer) TeL: +48 22 852 49 65 warszawa2@vapiano.pl

gaLeria mokoTów UL. wołoska 12 TeL: +48 600 325 883 warszawa3@vapiano.pl

24/10/13 12:26 PM

Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, www. facebook.com/dwichlab Referred to by some as the “poor man’s Atelier Amaro”, this haunt has a high communal seating plan and a hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks – sometimes faster. The chef is known for his trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine. Go there. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Casual Design" La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00, www. leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of

a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013. Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Chef" Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.muumuu.pl The place is sparky, fun and engaging: small in size, décor comprises of soft colors and light woods, not to mention a bar adorned with blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is meat, and steak appears in a variety of its forms: there’s T-Bone, bison, wagyu, etc. If you’re a vegetarian (or for that matter, a cow), run. New it might be, but there’s a quiet assurance about Muu Muu: the proprietor knows he’s on a good thing, and he very well is. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open

Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $ Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00, www.nolita.pl A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, advance bookings are recommended if you wish to enjoy this top-class experience. Some of the tastes and sensations are utterly unexpected, with the Insider left speechless after enjoying the tuna tartar and aged beef fillet. The nine-course tasting menu is said to be out-of-this-world, and why some are rating this as Poland’s next Michelin hope. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Fine Dining"

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RESTAURANTS Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia. pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. But beware the mosquitoes – they’re nasty buggers out here. $$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00, www.passepartout.pl Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook Passe Partout. But you’d be a fool to do so. Unassuming it might be, but there’s something clearly very right with the kitchen. The diverse international menu has too many positives to count, though the Insider

recommends the pork tenderloin: served with a blue cheese and balsamic sauce, it’s a plate licking meal. The back garden is a secret summer treat, so hard luck that it’s gone for now. $$ Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56, tel. 22 412 0656, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.piekna56 The line between restaurants and wine bars is increasingly blurred, and here’s another opening that greys those boundaries further. Well considered interiors feature a tree (!), nude art and stacks of bottles of wine strategically planted around this warm womb-like space. The menu is light and creative, with the biggest spend being a five star roast beef. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-

Insider's Pick Madras Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00

s a Brit I can confidently proclaim that if there’s one cuisine I’m qualified to judge then it is Indian: slash my wrists and I bleed curry. So it’s good news that for the past few years this is a kitchen that has been in the ascent round these parts. But it was 2013 that was the watermark, thanks largely to the regeneration of two greats (India Curry now Rain, and Tandoor Palace, now Tandoor). Even so, for the second year on the bounce it was Curry House in Bielany that was my Curry of the Year. And, such is their consistent excellence, I had thought it would be a category they’d dominate for several years to come. But no – in the shape of Madras, there’s a new challenger. Madras opened towards the end of November, though to be

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Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www. platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean. $$

honest, you’d really never guess. It looks cheap, cramped and rather claustrophobic. A couple of tables sit downstairs, while a tight stairwell leads to a gallery whose design stutters and stalls and does nothing special. The color scheme is dark and heavy, adding to the sense of confinement, while the aroma of incense – a vestige of the previous tenant, Natara Thai – lingers deep in the air. But oh my, the food… The chicken madras is lively, full of punchy spices in a thick fiery sauce. The butter chicken, meanwhile, raises debate round the table – is this the best in Warsaw? The girlfriend says yes, and she’s an expert on the non-macho curries (thoughtfully indicated here by yellow smiley faces). And then there’s my order, the chicken vindaloo. Now Warsaw’s Indian chefs tend to bow to the timid local palette, modifying the heat factor and tempering down the tastes. With alarming regularity, extra hot actually means extra not. Here, that’s not the case. The vindaloo is everything I want: an intense wave of fire that leaves me catching my breath. Rings of smoke billow from my ears. My eyes stream, my clothes dampen. Even my hair tingles. I have eaten a petrol bomb. But I don’t want this to stop. As someone who embraces the incantation that ‘pain is pleasure’, I find myself in a state of manic delirium – the perfect midpoint between heaven and hell. And as the burning euphoria subsides, I’m left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. But Madras is not a novelty, and shouldn’t be treated as an experiment in extreme eating. So I’ve learned, it’s actually the creation of the former head chef of Curry House. In my view, his knowledge of Indian cooking is unsurpassed in Warsaw. Catering to all preferences – from play-it-safe locals to swaggering daredevils – his menu is perhaps the truest there is to traditional Indian cooking. Not even the lack of alcohol is considered a weak link – when there’s food this good, who needs the crap yellow fizz served in most Indian’s here. (AW)

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Rozbrat 20 (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295, open MonFri 7:30-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.rozbrat20.pl Everything a restaurant should be – modern, but not too excessive, as well as traditional at the same time. Elegance emanates from everything and class glints off the silver champagne bowl and tasteful crockery. The menu is a contemporary, international affair, much like the crowd who appreciate it. $$ SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. 600 806 084, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00 Bistro, bakery, hangout. The cooling concrete

interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$

Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’. Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Restaurant Design" Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl With all the hipsters mincing about it sure doesn’t look like a restaurant: diners line-up at the counter to order, before sitting down in a spontaneous looking interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. Chef Aleksander Baron is an absolute star, and his daily changing menu (hourly changing, even), presents soul foods made from

fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients. His eye for good meat is undisputed, making it the best alternate dining experience you’ll see for a while. $$ Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www. sowaiprzyjaciele.pl It really looks the part, with warm lighting, soft colors and bare bulbs hanging from overhead cables. The positive impressions are further underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that catches the attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than in his kitchen: with that in mind, we’re happy to report the main man emerging from the kitchen to share backslaps and bear hugs with the regulars who return. $$$ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia.pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43.pl There is an inspiration here which causes

Piękna 56 is a special place created out of a passion for cooking and our warm, atmospheric interiors allow you to break away from everyday life... Our specialty is homemade pasta. We also serve venison in season and have live music every Friday.

ul. Piekna 56, Open Mon - Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00 tel. 22 412 0656, 22 121 8299 www.piekna56.pl, email: restauracja@piekna56.pl

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RESTAURANTS guests to linger over their meal, explore it and wonder at it. Food isn’t the background; it is the centerpiece. While Robert Trzópek has left the kitchen, he’s been ably replaced by Rafał Hreczaniuk – his menu pitches modern techniques against traditional, primarily root ingredients. It’s pretty wonderful, though the prices are ambitious. $$$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, open daily 11:30-22:30, www.taste.pl To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering. Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal. $$ U Chłopaków (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710, open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has winning pierogi and wonderfully thick goulash. $

Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, open Mon-Fri 12:00 -22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, www.restauracjavillafoksal. pl There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale restaurant whose floor plan and garden have made them a favorite for corporate bashes and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$ Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera. pl There have been many reasons to get excited this year, and one of them has been the success of Winosfera. You may think wine is the main talking point here, but actually, it’s the chef: Jakub Adamczyk, an upcoming star who studied his trade in Michelin mainstay The Square. His menu is scintillating: ordering the beef tenderloin is a must, as is the rhubarb parfait. You’ll be happy to pay the heavy handed prices. $$$ Wootwórnia ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 697 259, open 10:00-22:00 The intimate Wootwórnia features a spontaneous menu whose principal consistency is an adherence to the motto of the owners: ‘eat well’. Offering a full urban chillout experience, here’s many reasons to celebrate this menu: homemade pies, breakfasts and substantial mains leaking with goodness. $

Authentic Mexican food, great margaritas, tequila and a hot atmosphere! Made using the best ingredients, nobody does Mexican food better! Bienvenidos Amigos!!!

Al. Jerozolimskie 123A (Millennium Plaza), tel. 22 243 4618, www.dostacos.pl www.facebook.com/DosTacos.MexicanGrill

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

ITALIAN

Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 A dark and dimmed space – fashionably sparse – with white wall tiles and eclectic wallpaper climbing to the exposed pipes above. The menu is a simple laminated affair with eleven ‘pizza rosse’ and eight ‘pizza biance’, as well as a scattering of other Italian dishes. Cooked up by Lino and Fabio, the result is Warsaw’s most extraordinary pizzas: yep, the place is even endorsed by the city’s notoriously picky Italian community. $ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Carpaccio (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 692 4726, open daily 12:00-last guest The Italian influence looms heavy here: the Italian owner patrols the restaurant floor, while Carmelo, a Sicilian, ensures nothing but excellence exits the wood-fired pizza oven. The quality of the hams is undisputed, as a try of the Parma ham bruschetta immediately proves. $$

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? $$ Enoteka ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.enotekapolska.pl The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27, open daily 13:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00), www. winiarnia-kotlownia.pl You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that

steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 When Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro pops in with his family you know something is going right. Here the statement piece is a Stefano Ferrara Napoli oven, used to maximum effect to create pizzas which have come to be considered amongst Warsaw’s best. Import ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Caputo flour add to the authenticity, and there’s a medley of other ‘staples from Naples’. $ Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$ Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 756 3343, open daily 12:00-22:00 Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park,

Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$

ul. Żurawia 6/12 tel. 22 420 3373 Open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00 Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00 Sun 13:00-22:00 www.sushizushi.pl

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RESTAURANTS The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 575 457 & ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, open daily 12:00-22:00 & ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 465 1836, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.trattoriarucola.pl Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side to cover Old Town and the center. The M.O is replicated in all venues, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel. 22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www. vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 The high class confines of the Hyatt are the home of Venti

Tre, a contemporary restaurant with an open kitchen, and a Mediterranean inspired menu constructed using carefully sourced ingredients from local suppliers. The results are befitting of one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

JAPANESE & SUSHI Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul. Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open MonThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Ou Sushi ul. Domaniewska 17/19, tel. 22 847 16 63, open 12:00-21:00, www.ousushi.pl There can never be enough sushi in Warsaw, not least when it’s this good. The temaki rolls are outstanding. $$ Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open MonFri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www.ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute. Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi Club (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:0023:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sushi-club. pl A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave. The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We return for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Marina-Mokotów ul. Warowna 1, tel. 22 493 0302, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushimarina.pl Since its heyday in the noughties sushi has been in decline in Warsaw – well, no-one told Marina-Mokotów, and it’s a good job as well. Completely creative in its offer, this isn’t just another Wa-wa sushi joint. Elaborate rolls are built with forensic precision using the freshest of ingredients. In a place like this, it’s easy to fall in love with sushi all over again. $$

Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:0003:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold and creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tekeda Sushi & Wok (D1) ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818 & ul. Meissnera 1/3, tel. 606 236 050, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushitekeda.pl In an area plagued by tourist rip-offs, Tekeda get it right with a good balance of sushi and wok dishes. The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

LATIN & MEXICAN Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com A jaunty Mediterranean space with hanging hocks of ham and long communal tables. Aioli’s breakfast, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas all seem decent enough, but you can’t help wonder why it’s struck a chord with the public – it’s fine as an evening out, but nothing hugely memorable. $$

Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl The Cactus has been around for years, but such was its fall from grace people had started referring to it in the past tense. Enter new executive chef, Californian Patrick Hanna. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Northern Mexico, Hanna has Blue Cactus on the up. $$

Casa Pablo

(C3)

ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo. pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45 C and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 hoza@mondovino.pl Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.dostacos.pl Found high up in the increasingly naff-looking Millennium Plaza, Dos Tacos is adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes. A growing number of Americans can be found making their way to Floor 5 of the Millennium, and that’s to sample an exciting range of salsas and a solid menu of Mexican staples. $

La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, open 12:00-3:00, www.lafiesta.pl What was once a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic volte face. The sombreros and crap have been replaced by a psychedelic, Grateful Dead-style interior featuring skeletal Mariachi men, not to mention no shortage of tequila bottles. But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. We’ll be visiting soon to see if he’s really turned it around. $ Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, open

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RESTAURANTS Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.ole-restaurant.pl A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Dogged by failed ventures, this prime location has been gagging for a success story – and it’s got one. The food is good, which has to count for something: from light bites like tortillas, to pots of fresh mussels, everything we’ve tried in this Hispanic-themed spot has been culinary gold. Hanging hams come scattered around casual, intimate interiors, and further brownie points are gained for a smoking room that doesn’t choke you as well as hilarious toilets (lads, see if you measure up…). $$ Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, open 11:00-21:00, www.spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain begins and doesn’t retreat until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with serious respect. But this causal eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Freshly made tortillas and salsas that make you howl are just two reasons WTF continue to attract such a faithful following. But don’t think of it as just a mere restaurant, this is an ex-pat ‘have-it-all’, as proved by evenings that get particularly rowdy when live sports or live bands (or sometimes both) enter the picture.$$

MIDDLE EASTERN Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity

of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl Just what you didn’t expect – a restaurant specializing in the food of Yemen. Featuring lots of spicy meat dishes, and a few Indian-style offerings as well, here’s a fantastic spot that arouses curiosity and taste buds alike. The interiors are snug and pleasant, and not short on surprises – e.g. a concrete telephone pole adorned with potted plants. $$

POLISH Akademia Smaku ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 828 9901, open 12:00-24:00, www. akademia-smaku.com.pl Something of a side street surprise, Akademia connect contemporary, neutral interiors with a menu that’s best described as modern/ international. That might sound vague and anonymous, but the results are anything but. Beautiful presentation and simple, seasonal ingredients combine to make Akademia a high-scoring venue. $$ Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

ul. Adama Branickiego 11 tel. 22 258 1243 www.bistecca.pl Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$

Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www. aterlieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Outstanding Achievement" Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bazyliszek. waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions

of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykola 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.belvedere.com.pl Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$

Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00); Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bialages.pl For that elegant touch of Zhivago-era class, it’s got to be Biała Gęś. Interiors conjure images of a countryside manor; you imagine rolling up here after a day shooting foxes. Yet it’s not those blighters on the menu, but geese. That’s the house specialty, and you’d do well to find better. A whole bird for four is yours for zł. 490. $$$

Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s

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RESTAURANTS no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till next year just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. restauracjadompolski.pl Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$

divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Kluska Polska (D4) ul. Szpitalna 4, tel. 602 550 786, open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00, www.kluskapolska.pl The crazy black and white design has you thinking you’ve stepped into a cartoon cutout, so for the love of God, don’t take any funny little pills before you enter. The menu is simple and traditional, with hefty dumplings the dominant entity. Cheap and cheerful, all the signs suggest a success story in the making. $ Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow. $$

Pierrogeria (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 22 743 7644, open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.pierrogeria.eu Pierogi: the pride of the Folk Gospoda (B3) Polish pantry… Pervasive in their presence, ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open no other dish features so heavily on local daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl menus. Even so, the search for perfect To quote an unknown source, traditional pierogi can lead only to one door: and you’ll Polish food is a celebration of ‘heritage, culfind that particular portal on pl. Konstytucji. ture, singing and vodka.’ But snooty Warsaw Through their use of unconventional fillings doesn’t do traditional, at least not in the same and natural ingredients, Pierrogeria elevate a way tourist havens like Kraków do. So it’s a standard, staple food into a class of its own. $ joy to find Folk Gospoda. Good humored and Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) filled with gnarled furniture and mountain songs, it’s a place where warm memories are ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, made. Mains are a manly affair (solid, meaty www.podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard and generous in size) and arrive courtesy of that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, waiters dressed as Zakopane tinkers. $$ Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) further exaggerated when mountain bands ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open circulate. Food is of average standard and daily 12:00-24:00 (kitchen to 23:00), served in portions that are obscene – finishwww.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is ing the wooden platters can be seriously rich and happy, it’s easy to forget comtraumatic. Go there for the experience, if munism was a pretty dire experiment. Which nothing else. $ explains the playful nature of this commie Prasowy (E7) themed restaurant. Dining is done under ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.podgigantami.pl Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl Touting a refined, baronial setting, Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces and flickering candles, giving off plenty of classic charm in the best possible taste. With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table. $$$

U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is paired by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

BROUGHT TO YOU BY BURGER KITCHEN

THE KING OF BURGERS

In a short span of time Tomek Woźniak’s Burger Kitchen has managed to climb to the top of a very competitive heap. The Insider learns the secret of his success…

“T

PHOTOGRAPH BY MARCIN KLABAN

hese two glasses,” says Tomek Woźniak, “demonstrate all you need to know about our philosophy.” For a moment, I think Burger Kitchen’s Numero Uno has lost the plot. Placed in front of me are two empty cups – is he going to perform a magic trick, I wonder, or maybe just spout some cod psychology about glasses being half-full… or, in this case, empty. Either way, I’m recovering from a serious man-cold and my muddled brain is seriously confused. Then, it all becomes clear. Into one, he pours a high street brand apple juice. Into the other, apple

juice marked ‘100% honest.’ “Taste them,” he urges, “then tell me what you prefer.” It’s a daft question, because the high-street brand just doesn’t compete. “We get this from Austria,” he explains pointing to the other, “no additives, no sugar – it’s just pure, pressed fruit.” Raising it to your lips, you can almost discern the faint scent of meadows. Glorious. And this, in a nutshell, is Burger Kitchen’s foundation: quality. Launched at the start of last summer, that short timeframe has seen BK establish itself as Warsaw’s premier burger joint. This has not been down to chance or a fluke of fate, rather an uncompromising commitment to serving the best. Doing so means sourcing supplies from small-scale producers, local farmers, and reputable importers. At times, this has meant departing from well-travelled paths: “We’ve started using rape seed oil,” says Tomek, “because while extra virgin oil is fine, the stuff that arrives to Poland from Italy isn’t always the real thing.” Words like ‘fresh’ and ‘honesty’ are repeated and emphasized, with the obsession to detail imprinted in Tomek’s DNA. The ketchup and granola are homemade, while the production of hummus is a daily affair. Everything on the menu, so it seems, stands out as being ‘only the best’: olives from Puglio, mussels from Brittany, 16-day matured steaks and pork braised for six hours. “The only thing that’s mass-produced,” smiles Tomek, “is Coca Cola – but I think they do that well enough.” While competitors fob off second-rate ingredients, here it is the quality that is the key: “unlike the others,” says Tomek, “we find produce that’s appropriate for us and then make the price suit it – not the other way round.” It’s something Burger Kitchen are proud of, explaining why the salad now sits at the bottom of the burger: “I want to show the meat,” says Tomek, “I don’t want to hide what we serve under salad.” Admittedly, such dedication to top standards isn’t all plain sailing. “We respect our guests,” remarks Tomek, “so if suppliers turn up tomorrow with sub-standard produce we’ll reject it. Sometimes that means we run out of ingredients and don’t have what you want, but I’m just not going to give guests something I’m not happy with – I think that’s a fair justification.” And what next for Burger Kitchen? “We serve premium, top-level food in a casual style,” says Tomek, “I want people to know that. Sure, we’re about burgers, but I want Burger Kitchen to be famous for more than just that. That’s a big challenge, but challenges are nice. If people say you can’t do it, then that means you should try – otherwise you’ll never know.” Burger Kitchen ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, www.burgerkitchen.pl

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RESTAURANTS Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

SCANDINAVIAN Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical

Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food, with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

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Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. Food & Joy ul. Nowy Świat 7, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-17:00, www.foodandjoy.eu An upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma. Hala Koszyki

Officially recognized as Poland’s premier Englishlanguage magazine, the Insider is delighted to announce the launch of its new look website. Designed to reflect the nature of a dynamic and energizing capital, the Online Insider sails you through one of Europe’s most exciting cities. In a fast evolving city, the Online Insider opens the door to Warsaw’s secrets, stories and latest scoops. Don’t let Warsaw leave you behind: • Full restaurant, nightlife, café and shopping listings • In-depth picks, past and present • Features • Calendar • City Search • Blog • Newsletter blasts

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

ul. Koszykowa 63, tel. 533 331 588, open Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 12:00-1:00; Sat 12:00-1:00 This charming neo-Gothic pile of bricks hosts one of the quaintest little bazaars Warsaw’s ever seen. There’s a fantastic butcher’s, the freshest import fruit out back, cold cuts, Greek seafood, cheese, a juice bar and Warsaw’s best cakes. Repeat after me: Warsaw’s best cakes. Heritage ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine. Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region. Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available. La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, open Mon-Sat 10:30-18:30, www.lapetitefrance. pl Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France. Le Targ ul. Mińska 25, tel. 603 051 116, open Sat 10:00-15:00 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however. Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, www.littleindia. pl The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553,

open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves. Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less! Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.namasteindia.pl Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, o pen Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy. pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass-at least in the summer. Find them in the winter moving the bulk of their offer indoors. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

COOKING SCHOOLS Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www.jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailormade courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

WHOLE FOODS

Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering fashion statements and eccentric hair. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $

Pestka (D4) ul. Bracka 6/8, Organic Bistro tel. 691 706 900, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www. organicbistro-pestka.pl A simple, soothing space of sparing decorations, light modern finishes and plenty of natural light that gushes through the windows. Eschewing the fat and lard that used to feature so prominently in local living, Pestka is all about organic: consider it a gateway to sensible living and a balanced diet. Even the fish is tested for high metal content. Recommended are the bio-baguettes, corn tortilla wraps and wholemeal pancakes. $

Pestka

W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489, open 10:00-23:00 A vegan haven whose menu is heavily slanted towards local produce. The offer includes a number of vegan pastes, sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups (e.g. cream of pumpkin with coconut milk). The presence of equally hip Meat Love next door is something of a foil, with the two neighbors naturally complimenting each other. $

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WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

Reviews: Square 5 61 / Plus:

* 10 updates

CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 61 / WINE BARS 63

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

Insider’s Pick

Square 5 Pl. Bankowy 3/5, tel. 504 914 773, open Mon-Fri: 7:00-22:00, Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00, facebook.com/warsawsquare5

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

quare 5 comes as a pleasant surprise amidst the desert that is Pl. Bankowy. The intimate interiors are already visible from the street, through their floor to ceiling windows. The first thing I notice as I walk by, however, is their extensive menu, scrawled on a blackboard spanning three walls, written in categories: ‘sandwiches’, ‘salads’, ‘drinks’, ‘classic coffees’, ‘unusual coffees’ – too many to take in at once… Combine this with a countertop heavy with freshly-baked goods from croissants and bread rolls to cookies and cakes, all from their own ovens, and you’ve got a positively overwhelmed newcomer. What resulted, as I tried to decide as quickly as possible when faced with such a daunting choice, was a strategic zeroing in on one of the categories and choosing something, anything, so the poor girl at the counter didn’t have to wait any longer. I ended up not too badly off, with a big plate of salad and an unexpected complimentary bread basket, filled with their home baked bread, of course. Apart from menu staples in the form of sizeable sandwiches and generous salad portions, daily-changing lunch deals are also on offer, which always feature a combination of soup and pasta (together or separate). For those who have the luxury of a languid morning start, Square 5 also do nice breakfast sets. The drinks also deserve a mention as the choice is just as vast. Their coffee is premium Ionia il Caffe, and it comes in all forms, from the traditional cappuccino to more daring coconut macchiato. As an additional incentive, all coffees are zł. 5 throughout the weekend. Alcohol-wise, this is one of the few places in Warsaw to feature the Polish cider ‘Dzik Cydr’ made only from wild apples and poured from a barrel. All in all, a positive experience – the place definitely has the potential to draw more than just the suits working next door in for lunch. (KK)

CAFÉS Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 603 300 835, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:45 The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. Café 6/12 (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00 www.612.pl Famous for dispensing complex fruit and vegetable super smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; the cavernous interiors are still very much the choice haunt for on trend 30 something’s. Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, open daily 11:00-22:00, www.cafeiluzja.pl Bathed in white and black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black and white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS *

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger. Cava (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427, open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00, www.cava.pl A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this highend cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered for its people spotting opportunities.

Christian’s Bakerhouse (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.bakerhouse.pl “Our chef places great emphasis on quality,” confided our waitress, and that’s no word of a lie. Numerous national breakfasts are represented, from nutritious kick-starters to a full British fry-up. The work of celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski – as opposed to some silent religious order – the offer extends beyond breakfast to good Italian staples with a twist. Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, open Mon-Fri 7:30-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.coffeekarma.eu Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (though the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.czesc.waw. pl Located down a gusty tunnel underneath a modern residential/office compound, you might not expect much. But this small room is a treasure: one with Artezan Pacific and British cider on tap, Rwandan drip coffee, mountain vodka and boutique cakes made with love. Changing art adorns the walls, and there’s no shortage of eccentricities – upcycled crates as shelving, and a toilet with a Space Invaders theme. A versatile place, it’s the café everyone needs next door.

Dr. Kava (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 601 615 327, open MonFri 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www. drkava.pl Looking dynamite red, Dr. Kava was one of the success stories of 2013 – some go as far as to say it’s their favorite coffee in the city. Coffee from Chicco d’Oro and chocolates and confectionary from pedigree producer Leone signal this doctor’s dedication to his clientele.

Tue-Fri 10:00-2:00; Sat 9:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-24:00. Not just Warsaw’s best urban market, but also a very decent café. Set in the ceramic tiled entrance of Hala Koszyki, there’s some fabulous food squiggled on the blackboard, and that definitely includes the boeuf bourgignon and pots of mussels. At night, pop in to take languid sips of Aperol Spritz, Arrancello and other ‘drinks of the moment’.

Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sat 12:00-21:00; 12:00-21:00 Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair.

La Scarpetta (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 68/70 (enter from Skorupki), tel. 602 309 391, open 10:00-21:00 An inviting Italian-style café with warming woods, autumnal colors and a blackboard menu that diverts away from the cliché. Standard pasta dishes are ignored in favor of bruchetta and pidine sandwiches.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural. Kava i Vino (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 692 7314, www.kavaivino.pl The standout feature is an unconventional interior designed by renowned architects Dobek, Wojcickiego, Białobrzeska, Boczko. Over 1,200 pieces of wood hang from the ceiling, creating a beautiful visual effect. The short menu features wine, cold meat platters, cheese bruschetta, wraps, salads and sandwiches, as well as a few daily specials – the results are fair to great. KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 22 270 2179, open 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. klubokawiarnia.net Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay. Koszyki (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, tel. 533 331 588, open

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, open 10:00-20:00, www.lavanille.pl Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that is the magnetic force: here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation – try the Red Velvet. Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, tel. 789 176 730, open daily 8:00-22:00. Also at ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 518 652 436, open daily 10:0022:00 Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil. Magiel Café (F8) ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, open Tue-Thu 12:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 10:30-17:00, www.magielcafe.pl Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for esoteric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open MonWed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat

10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www.miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Ranked 16th in the WORLD, you can put your faith in the house barista. Using Arabica from Colombia, Kenya and Guatemala, rave reviews are both standard and appropriate. The backdrop muddles pristine wall tiles with comfy chaises and uber-cool lighting, with the ambience never too commercial, nor too hipster – rather, just right. MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:0022:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:0021:00, www.myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor. The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic. Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open MonFri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spread and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Om Nom Nom (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 602 134 634, open Mon-Wed 10:00-22:00; Thu-Sun 10:0023:00 Looking clean, clinical but strangely warming, Om Nom Nom specialize in their own ice cream lollies: all in cutesy designs and dipped in crunchy colorful toppings. The beer is just as good, with independent Polish brewers well represented. Palce Lizać (F5) ul. Rozbrat 16/18, tel. 509 412 051, open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00 A tiny affair where the personal touch is valued above everything else. Looking cute, blue and feminine, this café shines not just through their homemade cakes, but also on account of artfully crafted sandwiches and salads: utilizing seasonal ingredients, these could easily belong in a restaurant charging double the price.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while watery, winter sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 22 870 13 25, open Mon-Wed 12:00-22:30; Thu-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 Informal looking with its clean white finishes and stripped wood floors, it’s an ideal spot for a lazy weekend – few places in Warsaw feel so naturally continental. The food, it needs to be said, is very good indeed, with hefty steaks, multiple burgers and some fine desserts.

Mon-Thu 12:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00. Looking raw, industrial and fashionably spartan, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. A faded concept, maybe, but in Socjal it feels as fresh as tomorrow. Pizza and Prosecco are the best sellers. Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 796 880 822 or 793 567 125. open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

WINE BARS

Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl Warsaw is increasingly devoted to megalith wine worlds. In comparison, Ale Wino is small fry, Lilliputian even. Yet there’s a real charm that wins over all. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishings by the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special.

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds The wine selection was personally overseen excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly esteemed wine importer in the country. And prepared, right down to the foam art, the the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete baristas here use the finest imported machines cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and work only with fair trade coffee. If you have and the New World, the collection is precisely time, the drip coffees are more than worth the presented from behind glass cases that line wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and the walls. BEST WAWA 2013 “Wine Bar” are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd. Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 787 181 051, open Zbawiciela), tel. 22 628 4459, open

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS

open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.prawdziwewina.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749,

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22); Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00 (kitchen closes at 17:00), www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative

Mon-Thur 7:00-24:00; Fri 7:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-22:00, www.bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar. Hoża by Mondovino (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl Successfully establishing themselves over summer, you’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. They’re the personal selection of actor / owner Tomasz Budyta, a successful wine importer for the last 23 years.

“Thanks to all our guests in 2013” - Kava i Wino

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates with city casual cool. Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 25 00, open MonSat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection. Opened in Feb, it’s already become a much used Insider hangout. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:0018:00 Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve already won a staunchly loyal following. Get your week off to a galloping start and visit on ‘Jazz Monday’s’. You’ll be joining the most beautiful people in the city.

Reviews: Gorączka Złota 65 / Plus:

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NIGHTLIFE

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

BARS & PUBS 65 / CLUBS 69 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 70 / JAZZ CLUBS 70 / SHOT BARS 70

Insider’s Pick

BARS & PUBS Bazar ul. Okrzei 22, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00-last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Gorączka Złota ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open Mon-Fri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

ollowing a delicious spate of openings 2013 will forever be remembered by night owls as the year craft beer came of age. It was no longer good enough for bars to look good, all of a sudden they had to serve beer that was good as well. But it wasn’t just the newbies that realized this, but the old timers. And they don’t get much older than Gorączka Złota. Founded in 1996, their longevity has provoked envious glances from bar owners nationwide. I mean, how many other pubs can you name that have outlasted this lot? On the surface, you may ask yourself why. Certainly, the place doesn’t look like much. Seen as a greenish glow from the outside, inside Złota reveals itself to be a pokey little bar that’s both dark and a little pungent. Rendered almost entirely out of varnished wood, it feels like stepping into a ship’s galley. But it takes seconds to recognize the secret of their success. Covering every vertical surface, and a couple horizontal, are hundreds of coasters and bottle caps – immediately, this is a place that announces its unswerving devotion to quality beer. With a variety of regional and craft beers in the fridge, and two guest beers regularly rotated on tap, it’s an offer that was judged decent enough to see Gorączka Złota included on the list of seven venues deemed worthy of a place on this summer’s Szlak Piwa (‘beer trail’). That’s all well and good, but what do we really like? Gorączka Złota is as unfashionable as it gets. Sure, they carry all the ‘beers of the moment’, but they attract none of the hipsters who usually drink them. Instead, the crowd is overwhelmingly normal: local lads, a couple of ex-pats and a scattering of beer dorks. And that’s why this place works so well. There’s an underlying honesty here, one that’s centered on good beer at good prices for good people. It’s as far removed from fashion as you can get, which is why you can expect them to carry on strong for several years more. It’s not a fad, it’s a pub, and a very good one at that. (AW)

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The big fail of 2012. Forget that it’s the most accurate replica of a traditional British pub around, and consider instead the heinous service, fried aromas and a deserved ex-pat boycott traced to the dismissal of the original British manager. Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean space that can get loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky. Featuring a ‘tomb’ of mainstream beers, Chmielarnia may look a little basic, but it’s definitely the real deal. A peerless selection of craft beer sees 40 lagers rotated on 15 taps, and even more rare finds in the fridge: among them BrewDog, Lindemanns, and of course a comprehensive choice of experimental Polish brews. Look out for stocks of Thistly Cross, a Scottish cider that murders all the competition.

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NIGHTLIFE Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 691 710 000, open daily 11:00-15:00, www.barmax.pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant affairs that resemble a tropical jungle in a miniature form. The only problem? By their very nature, cocktails aren’t concocted in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around is like Death by a Thousand Cuts. Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here! Marketed at normal people – not just hipsters, for a change – this sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the four glass walls. Could it be too basic? No – anything else would detract from the main attraction: the beer. About 15 taps dispense regional brews, cult indy productions as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond. Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Czeska Piviarnia ul. Ks. J. Popiełuszki 19/21, tel. 730 855 566, open Sun-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-2:00 Warsaw’s realization that there is beer beyond Żywiec is in evidence with the creation of this haunt. Seven Czech beers are rotated on the taps, and several dozen more sit in bottles in the fridge. While the design doesn’t go far beyond tables and chairs, it’s a sign city center trends are penetrating the suburbs. If you’re Żoliborz-based, then it’s a must. Dubrovnik (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 22, tel. 885 835 885, open

11:00-last guest, www.dubrovnik.waw.pl Yes, Dubrovnik is a restaurant. And yes, it’s a restaurant that doesn’t promise much – set with woodsy features and mock-rustic details, it looks cheap and tacky and one to avoid. But guess what, it’s one of the first tankovy pubs in Poland! A Czech innovation, the storing system preserves the beers freshness, and even takes away the usual gassy, belchy taste of Tyskie. Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43, tel. 22 625 0818, open 12:00-23:00, www.flaming-co.pl Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its course. Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 515 967 123, open Mon-Wed 10:00-24:00; Thu-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00 Big things are happening in this small little room. Under the stewardship of Kevin Bradley this ex-pat hit has now added Guinness and live sports (it’s the rugger bugger favorite) to their offer to go alongside a fab menu by Kiwi chef Shane. An intimate space clad in brickwork and metal, Haka gets further applause for adding Arnie – Warsaw’s favorite cocktail king – to their staff lineup. Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodsy Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though. Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00. www.kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage. BEST WAWA 2013 “Beer Bar” Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Chilled out and downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair. There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. tel. 510 905 592, open Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00 Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/ raspberry hint M3. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

HOTEL**** GNIEW CASTLE

NIGHTLIFE Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-2:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a wellto-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling. Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. Parking Bar (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 501 623 456 or 537 606 897, open Sun-Thu 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-6:00, www.parkingbar.eu It looks raw and ready, but then what did you expect from a place on the ground floor of a car park. Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on the weekend club nights. Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, open daily 18:00-last guest, www.paparazzi. com.pl Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door. Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks. Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open

Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 11:00-1:00 Dubbing themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap bar’, Piw Paw have an armory of 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem? Designed more for carry-out custom, it’s an ambitious project though one that doesn’t feel entirely thought out. And in spite of the offer, it’s nothing more exciting than the other multi-tap choices. A good start point, nonetheless. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Bottled then packaged in Plan B (pl. Zbawiciela) is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. Przychodnia (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 827 8356, open 12:00-24:00 Erm, so, here’s a bar themed around communist hospitals. Are you sure that’s a good idea? Order test tube shots from staff dressed like docs, before settling into an interior equipped with operating room lights, surgical utensils and a smoking room designed like a toilet. What were they thinking with this one? No idea, but it’s certainly a novelty. Pure Sky Club (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Skylight Tower), tel. 22 250 1111, open Mon-Fri 7:00-23:00; Sun 12:0017:00, www.pureskyclub.com Slotted on the top floor of the 22-storey Sky Tower, Pure Sky Club offers a slice of the high life (literally and otherwise) to high society looking to mix business with pleasure inside this ‘private club’ – this is where the Top Gear lads

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

went for their after show party. Friday is the highlight though, with their weekly London Calling event drawing dressy ex-pats looking for live entertainment. For membership, check their web. Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl What was a standard Indian restaurant has been reinvented as both a slick ‘modern Indian’ eatery and… a bar! There’s Perła on tap, and the best time to sample it is their ‘Piątek, Pakora and Perła’ happy hour: zł. 8 for a beer and pakora from 16:30 to 18:30. But the real point is made by the cocktails. They’re concocted by Konrad, a gifted mixologist whose specialties include the house signature: Frozen Rain. You won’t stop at one.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Try their best seller: the Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink BEST WAWA 2013 that kicks like a mule. “Cocktails” Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:001:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. Syreni Śpiew (F5) ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, open Tue-Thu 18:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00, www.syrenispiew.pl Set in a beautifully restored piece of PRL concrete, Syreni Śpiew’s lasting popularity has proved the doubters wrong. This is not some one season wonder,

rather a place that has gone from strength to strength. Primarily known for its hefty whisky offer (which is divided into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan), the cocktails also stand up to scrutiny on account of their consistent quality. A genuinely unique drinking experience with cool elements of retro chic.

Sztuka i Sztucki (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 468 00 00, open Sun-Thu 12:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 18:00-last guest, www.sztukisztuczki.pl Visitors negotiate a maze of narrow corridors, nooks and corners, with meanderings to the leviathan, boat-shaped bar taking in concrete floors, naked brickwork and vaulted ceilings. The beer list offers a jumble of exemplary brews, among them the outstanding Grimbergen, while cocktails are novel and largely ravishing. And of course, it helps that enjoyment of them is done on ultra-cool seats designed by Pierre Favresse. Rather than attracting gurning wannabe’ Latino dudes and plastic models the music attracts a diverse range of peeps: that’s thanks to a schedule that encompasses

everything from jazz tributes to club nights. BEST WAWA 2013 “Late Night”

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions where there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all.

CLUBS 1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412, open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00, www.1500m2.com Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial

space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-till-dawn electro events. Basen ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00, www.artbasen.pl Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list.

De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely joins the ranks of Platinium and Foksal XVIII in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior. Of the top end uber clubs, this is becoming our favorite, with a wild night of excess virtually guaranteed.

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NIGHTLIFE Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost. Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Composed using chandeliers, bricks and velvet this classy space has gone head to head with The Eve as Warsaw’s flashest venue: breathe deep and smell the money. Cardboard animal shapes hang from the bar, adding some surreal humor to the seriously competitive air. The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 604 145 462 or 22 827 5242, open ThuFri 21:00-last guest, www.theeve.pl Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room. Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a

nefarious reputation as something of a dodgy den of illicit pharmaceuticals and libertine behavior. Looking grim and grotty, this after party legend gets going at about 4 a.m. when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the final touches to their zonked out stare. For the full tilt, teeth rattling electro experience it’s pretty hard to beat. Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. BEST WAWA 2012 “Rich & Pretty Club” Winner Room 13 ul. Mazowiecka 13, open Wed-Sat 22:13-7:00 Archways lead from one room to the next inside a design den defined by the fluffy clouds painted on the vaulted ceilings. At times, the dance floor looks like a giant audition for X Factor, with the fallen angels on the wall looking on with feigned interest. Sen Pszczoły ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. 530 360 060, open Tue-Wed 18:00-2:00; Thu-Sat 18:005:00; Sun 18:00-2:00, www.senpszczoly.pl A dive club of legend. With the original turned to ashes (literally, it burnt down earlier in the year), the owners could have been forgiven for calling it a day. They haven’t. Instead

Shot Bars Afera na Szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 509 777 797, open 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 24hrs Looking light and bright this place appeals to more than just hardened alcoholics – a point proved by spot-on food home cooked by the owner’s mum. It’s young, fun and lively in swagger. We’re told that a second location is coming soon. Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21, open 11:00-6:00 Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to the chains of bog paper.

Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19, open 24hrs Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports. Warszawska Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240, open 24hrs When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar, and it is a good spot to watch the latest rainbow fire.

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

they’ve reopened in Koneser, and unleashed Warsaw’s most surreal interior in the process: amid the heavy industrial background expect bunk bed frames, a dentist’s chair and no shortage of neon painted weirdness. Concerts are a mixed bag, and range from didgeridoo performances to inter-war songs to full-on techno that rattles the ribcage.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS Coyote (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 505 469 056, open Mon-Sun 21:00-5:00, www.coyotebar.eu Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and then a larger room with more intimate acts of friendship taking place behind the curtain. New Orleans (D4) ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831 or 600 063 667, open Mon-Sun 16:00-4:00, www. neworleans.pl High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here…

JAZZ Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts. Nu Nu Nu (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00. For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd. Tygmont Jazz Club ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl, open daily 16:00-4:00 For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.

Reviews: Vintage Shop 71 / Plus:

* 1 update

SHOPPING

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

ACCESSORIES 72 / FASHION 71 / HOME DECOR 73 / SHOPPING MALLS 74

Insider’s Pick

FASHION American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style. Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (University of Warsaw library), tel. 501 301 742, www.vintagestore.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAŁ ZAJĄCZKOWSKI

iving in Warsaw you might have noticed that the city is filled with thrift shops and second-hand stores. But finding something of real vintage quality and value is rare. But, the other day, while walking through Powiśle, I came across the Vintage Store. And though the name sounds banal, it is exactly what it claims to be: a store dedicated to real vintage clothing. The shop owner prides himself on having been involved with vintage fashion for over 15 years. Back in the ’90s, when it was hard to find ANY clothing stores in Warsaw, the owner bulls-eyed the niche in the market by opening the Vintage Store. The business model was simple: import clothes from the US, and sell them to the fashion-deprived Poles, who (back then) had very limited access to branded clothing. Vintage Store was one of the first shops in Warsaw to offer brands like Levi’s, Fruit of the Loom, Champion and Wrangler. Granted they were second-hand, but they were so much more ‘exotic’ compared to the grey, black, white or knitted-by-your-grandma garments that were on offer in Poland at that time. Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop. You can also buy fashionable accessories like leather ties, or a chic toque with Marabou feathers. The store’s clientele is varied – fashion doesn’t discriminate… The Vintage Store offers so many interesting pieces that even theater costume designers show up when in need of something different: be it a colorful shirt from the ’70s or a leather jacket à la Donnie Brasco – if it is to be found anywhere in Warsaw, it will be in the Vintage Store. Find it on the first floor of the University of Warsaw’s library building, though do facebook them for news on any seasonal garage sales (which take place at ul. Lipowa 5A). (ID)

Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 727 425 352 or 609 888 363, open Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-16:00, www.bizuu.pl A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season. Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, tel. 22 611 3814, pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00, www.chiara-online.pl A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 – bright colours, florals, platform heels and wedges. Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 22 424 79 79, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00,

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SHOPPING www.franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch. Gosia Baczyńska (Praga) ul. Floriańska 6/11, tel. 516 133 507, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; 12:00-15:00. www.gosiabaczynska.com.pl This elegant boutique on the other side of the river features gorgeous, unique designer pieces. Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, ul. Puławska 2 (CH Plac Unii), open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.joannaklimas.com One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. L’Aura ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), tel. 22 310 73 13, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 519 000 049, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.zien.pl A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom. Marks & Spencer Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 206 4370, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. ul. Marszałkowska 104/122 (DT Wars & Sawa), tel. 22 206 4353, open 9:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, tel. 22 206 4386, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0653, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun

9:00-21:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl The popular British brand’s new Warsaw store sells menswear, womenswear and children’s clothing, as well as various beauty products, groceries, wines and spirits. This is its newest and largest store in Poland to date. Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain. Muji ul Mysia 3, tel. 502 264 091, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.muji. com.pl Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store. Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4616, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Nowy Świat 1, tel. 22 629 1773, open Mon-Sat 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 3862, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00, www.pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace. QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), tel. 506 170 801, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00;

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

Sat 11:00-14:00, www.robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie. Redford and Grant Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00, www.redfordandgrant.pl This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 887 1056, open Mon-Sat 10:00-19:30 Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, open Mon & Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. Teresa Rosati (Sadyba) Al. Witosa 31 (Panorama), tel. 609 433 343, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00, www.teresarosati.com.pl Elegant cocktail dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s best-known designers. Ready-to-wear and custom-made services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

ACCESSORIES Bagatt ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 622 0015, open

Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.bagatt. pl A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances. Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite. Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00. www.chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. Church’s Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00 A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. Frey Wille ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. www. frey-wille.com You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals. Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel. 794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00;

Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:0015:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open MonFri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula. Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 403 19 19, open Mon-Fri 11:19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, www.lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

HOME DECOR 3F Studio ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.3fstudio.com.pl Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

A&A Bath ul. Chmielna 12, tel. 883 310 201 / 883 311 030, open Mon-Fri 12:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00 Inspired by their travels, and appalled at the lack of bath stores in Warsaw, two best friends decided to put their design and business skills to the test and launch A&A Bath. Featuring a New England summer cabin aesthetic, many of the products are designed by the owners, even so you’ll find imports from Denmark and Sweden as well. Apteka Sztuki Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421, open Tue-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00 Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland). Bo Concept ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home. Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), tel. 22 651 6884, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-16:00, www.coqlila.pl Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware. ego&eco ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00, www. egoeco.eu Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Galeria 2 Deco ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 621 2420, www.2deco. pl A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices. Special orders and consulting also available. Mokotowska 71 ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, www.mokotowska71.pl Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style.

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SHOPPING MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, tel. 22 360 4389, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.moomo.pl Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm. Numero Uno ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www. numerouno.pl Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche. Red Onion ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00, www. redonion.pl Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

Red Poppy ul. Lekarska 9, tel. 516 894 4306, www. redpoppy.pl. (open by appointment only) Being the first hand-printing design studio in Poland, they focus primarily on making one-of-a-kind wallpapers as well curtains, lampshades, and cushions. And a good product it is: a series of Justyna Medoń’s patterns won the 2012 Must Have Prize at the Łódź Design Festival. Secret Life (of Things) ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, tel. 600 486 582 or 509 852 617, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.secretlife.pl An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes. Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses. Velt ul. Próżna 12, www.velt.pl Beautiful family-

run glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.kencenter.pl

Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc… Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.wolapark.com Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open MonSat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www. galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers.

THERE’S ONLY ONE THERE’S ONLY ONE LEGENDARY BURGER LEGENDARY BURGER IN WARSAW! IN WARSAW!

Targówek (Praga) ul. Głębocka 15, open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.atriumtargowek.pl Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

WARSAW WARSAW

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2013-11-12 14:39:54 2013-11-12 14:39:54

Reviews: Waff-Love 75

CHILDREN

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

ACTIVITIES 75 / CAFES 78 /EDUCATION 76

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, www. barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs. Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Waff-Love ul. Senatorska 28, tel. 502 635 222, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

arsovian’s are no stranger to the waffle. So it’s no surprise a café has popped up on the scene and dedicated its whole menu to the pancake that looks like it’s been walloped by a tennis racket! Whilst strolling through Old Town and soaking up the only light available during this month, the lingering Christmas illuminations, we stumbled across Waff-Love. Upon entering the petit premises the homey waft of sweet crispy batter hit our senses, prompting us to peel off the winter layers and surrender to the temptations. A glutinous, finger licking, mouth dribbling feast followed. The owners of Waff-Love visited Belgium and spent time perfecting their recipe. They are less sweet than the traditional Belgian waffle, but after mountains of toppings are added you’d be hard pushed to notice. My daughter and I plunged for the banana ice-cream with a generous helping of whipped cream drizzled with caramel and white chocolate sauce. With a hot chocolate with a whipped cream and warm cherry coulis topping, I frankly kissed all my New Year’s dietary resolutions goodbye… Well and truly stuffed we reluctantly clad ourselves in all the essential and obligatory winter woolies and waddled out into the early evening gloom. January temperatures can be harsh but with an extra layer of warm waffles in the tum we were toasty all the way home. This place is ‘petit’ so seating is limited. That said its coziness lends itself to the whole experience, so on a chilly day a little bit of shoulder rubbing with a fellow waffle lover is not, in my book, a punishment. On the contrary, you can enjoy eyeing up your neighbors choice of toppings if different to your own. The staff go as quick as the machinery (jolly/ good service), they have an up-to-date FB page full of delicious experimentations, prices are reasonable and the door is open from 8 a.m. till 8 p.m. So if you’re looking for a heartwarming nibble before or after the opera, visiting the illuminations or just in need of some feel good food then this is as good a place as any to be. (GBB)

Cukier Lukier ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. 605 660 005, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 10:0018:00, www.cukierlukier.pl Confectionary making courses and displays that attract kids of ALL ages. Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, tel. 22 827 2744, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00, www.fryzjerkowo.pl This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English. Advance booking recommended. Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, www.atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/ art history) for children, young people and adults.

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CHILDREN HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:0024:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools. Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu. Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-and-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat. Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www. thelittlegym.pl Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well. Manufatura Cukierów ul. Tamka 49 (enter from Ordynacka), open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-17:30; Sun 13:00-17:30, tel. 692 888 751, www. manufaktura-cukierkow.pl Sweet making courses in a confectionary factory! Lessons are conducted in Polish, though enthusiasm is more important than a mastery of the language. Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

of productions suitable for children aged 3 +. Scenery, props and costume design are impressive but Polish dialogue is challenging! Losing the plot to Hansel and Gretel can happen - prepare to improvise! Tip: organize a backstage birthday party. Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. 22 619 4041, open Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00, www.zoo.waw.pl The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’. This year though, all eyes are on three tiger cubs born in Feb. Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, www.golfparkspoland.pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course. Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.zacheta.art. pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

Teatr Guliwer ul. Różana 16, tel. 22 845 16 76/77, box office open 9:00-17:30, www.teatrguliwer. waw.pl Well worth a visit, even for non-Polish speakers. An exciting colorful premises with creative costumes make this the choice place to introduce the kids to theater.

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

Teatr Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), tel. 22 620 4960 or 22 620 49 50, open Mon-Sat 11:0017.30; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.teatrlalka. waw.pl This puppet theatre stages a variation

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool School Unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@ canadian-school.pl The preschool branch of The Canadian School of Warsaw offers a bilingual environment based on the International Baccalaureate Program PYP for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away from Ogródek Jordanowski. All children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old. The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to

in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. Their program, which is designed for those aged 1.5 to 6 years old, is devoted to the intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children.

Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@ theenglishplayhouse.com.

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, open Mon-Fri 7.30-18:00, www.argonaut.edu.pl This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, www.hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. I love montessori ul. Pląsy 39, tel. 500 501 105, www.ilovemontessori.pl I love montessori is an ecological preschool, located in a green and quiet area in Ursynów. Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a music and art program. Find them located

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center

montessori kindergarten

montessori

Ursynow, next to Pulawska street

call and meet us

500 501 105 organic healthy meals large green garden for children between the ages 2,5 and 6

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CHILDREN ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, www.3languages.pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

SCHOOLS American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuation of IB(International Baccalaureate)- based education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified,

international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts (Bob the Builder, ceramics/pottery, art studio), music lessons(piano, guitar, choir, sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer club, swimming, therapeutic gymnastics), foreign languages (Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

Ecole Antoine de SaintExupéry Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442, Open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization. Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

CAFES Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00, www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties. Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 839 75 60 or 501 183 953, open Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www.kalimba.pl Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops. The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable! Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, www.kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile. Kosmos Kosmos ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 535 558 552, open Sun-Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Thur 11:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. The design fuses retro with rock, while the children’s area comes with a handmade puppet theater, cardboard castle and enticing kids menu. ‘Fun workshops’ take place at noon each Saturday. Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561 or 502 683 246, open 10:00-20:00. www.kredkafe. pl The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space. Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The latest hot-spot on the family map, Nabo is run by a Danish couple, and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion. Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 500 200 200, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00, www. nowakuznia.pl Hugely child friendly, Nowa Kuźnia comes into its element each summer when the garden is turned into a giant faux beach – complete with diggers, slides and a see-saw.

Reviews: Haircology 79

LIFESTYLE

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

ACCOMMODATION 79 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 81 / MEDICAL 82 / POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS 82 / TRANSPORTATION 81

ACCOMMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl H15 Boutique Apartments ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 or 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00 till last customer, www.haircology.pl

aving a baby has made me more attuned to a more eco-friendly lifestyle, so the philosophy of Haircology was irresistible. Basically, it’s a salon that feels like a megaindulgent eco-spa, from the décor to the luxurious organic products they use. I came by with a photo of Selena Gomez and told my stylist Marcin, “make my hair look like this, please!” Instead of giving me an incredulous smirk, which is what I expected, he gave me a confident look and said, “Let’s see what I can do.” Marcin was a stylist in London for a few years before moving back to Poland, so it was easy to talk to him about the kind of hairstyle I was looking for. As a new mum, I’m really trying to bring my sexy back and I thought the right haircut was the first step – and the quickest to execute, unlike a ridiculous diet. But before we get to the cutting, there was a full treatment of washes and rinses infused with mint, rosemary, lemon and nettle: all meant to purify and add shine. Then, as Marcin approached my unruly head of conditioned locks with his scissors, I made him promise once again that he wouldn’t cut too much. He took my panic with a cool head. I didn’t dare look down at the snippets collecting at my feet. I busied myself looking through a catalogue of sumptuous body care products – all organic of course. Some 20 minutes later we were done. Another 20 minutes of blow drying and there it was: my own Selena Gomez style. I just couldn’t believe it – it was almost exactly like the photo, just a bit shorter and more manageable. It was one of those rare moments when I could tell my stylist in all sincerity that I loved my haircut. Haircology looks good, smells wonderful, feels comfortable and, best of all, delivers of a dose of quick-stop pampering that is just the thing to boost a new mom’s battered spirits – especially if she’s been up all night comforting a cranky babe. (AMG)

Hyatt Regency Warsaw ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

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LIFESTYLE ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com Sofitel Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

3-Star Hotels

4-Star Hotels

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl

Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl

Radisson Blu pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl

Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

Mecure ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Novotel Warszawa Centrum

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000 Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. Prices ca. €290. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays. Vision Apartments Al. Jerozolimskie 81/22, tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu Founded in Switzerland, Vision specialize in the rental of high-quality furnished apartments and are known for their commitment to service and style. Having evolved into Switzerland’s market leader in furnished living, the company is now in the process of establishing footholds throughout Europe with a presence in Berlin, Geneva, Munich, Warsaw and Vienna. Find their Warsaw apartments in Platinum Towers on Grzybowska.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

BROUGHT TO YOU BY BIKRAM YOGA WARSAW

oland’s first official Bikram Yoga Studio is now open on Jana Pawła – a great joy for both you and the Baby New Year! Come in and feel what everyone is talking about – get on a great sweat and ditch the remnants of last year while you get ready for the one ahead! Up your natural electricity quotient in the healthiest and most sustainable way around. A Bikram class is a series of 26 asanas lasting 90 minutes at 41 degrees Celsius. When it’s over, you’ll be floating! Bikram Yoga Warsaw offers full locker room amenities including showers and locked, personal storage spaces. There are yoga matts and towels for rent or purchase. Please visit our website at bikram.pl for a host of special offers to meet your every need.

Bikram Yoga Al. Jana Pawła II 61 lok. 305, tel. 888 204 020, www.bikram.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

tel. 22 328 86 40. www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www. bedandbreakfast.pl Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www. chmielnabb.pl

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl Not

just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance. Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel, ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes in one of Warsaw’s best five stars. zł.100 per day. Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701 or 22 450 67 11. www.sheraton.com/warsaw. Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna.

Avis tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789. Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, mob. 602 475 355, 605 331 425, www. trustrentacar.pl

HEALTH & BEAUTY FITNESS

Holmes Place Premier ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841. www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. Their latest outpost in the Marriott also has a pool and has been updated accordingly to fit the HP quality check. For prices enquire direct.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental),

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LIFESTYLE Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 313 1221, www. holmesplace.pl Premium fitness and leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates two more Energy Clubs in Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia. Arkadia: tel. 22 351 9037, Galeria Mokotów: tel. 22 541 3333.

SPAS & SALONS

Holmes Place Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.holmesplace.pl Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw. Amazing Clarins body firming and rejuvenating treatments, facials, reflexology and wide range of massages at the beauty center round out a healthy lifestyle. The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00. www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest. www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives. Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00. www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite of the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 517 012 880, open daily 10:00-24:00. www. spasungate.pl A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments, manicure and pedicure, as well as a VIP room for couples. Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404,

open 10-22, sb 9-18. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00. www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:0014:00. www.repechage.net.pl A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatment for the whole body. Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00. This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons. Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A, tel. 22 414 2222 or 501 126 108, www. renclinic.pl Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details and locations: www.luxmed.pl Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333. www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center. Melitus ul. Słowackiego 12, tel. 22 833 7438, mob. 603 060 621, biuro@melitus.pl, www.melitus.pl Specializing in dermatology, surgery,

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

phlebology, endocrinology, gynecology and internal medicine. The clinic is equipped with the latest and most innovative medical equipment and employs several renowned clinicians.

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS

Edu & More ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, tel. 22 622 14 41, office@polishonlinenow.com, www. polishonlinenow.com Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. Preparatory courses for the state exam as well as for the international ECL certificate in Polish. Morning, afternoon & evening classes. Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 22 403 7872 or 517 459 418, www.frog.org.pl Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish.

COMMUNITY Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Meetings take place on ul. Radna 14 and ul. Poznańska 38, tel. 725 204 904 buzzer #3. Group meets Mon - Thu 18:30; Fri 20:30; Sat 9:30 and 11:00; Sun 13:30, www.warsawaa.org Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, (1st floor), www.amnesty.org.pl Expats-in-Poland.com Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive information and services for foreigners including immigration, work permits, driving licences, renting and buying properties, healthcare, education and more. For more information: www.expats-in-poland.com Food Banks All thirty food banks operating in Poland deliver food aid to those in need – as many as 5 million people. To donate food or get involved go to www.bankizywnosci.pl

KRAINAMYDLA.COM IS FOR ALL THOSE WHO CARE ABOUT THEIR HEALTH AND ARE FAMILIAR WITH HIGH-QUALITY AND APPRECIATE ORIGINAL AND NATURAL PRODUCTS. Visit KRAINAmydla.com to find thehighest-quality products we have selected foryou based on our knowledge andexperience. We offer the highest-quality, naturaland hand-made soaps, shampoos and lotions as well as accessories and beauty products. Everything you find on KRAINAmydla.comis made from natural ingredients and does not contain chemical additives. Ourcosmetics are hypoallergenic and recommended for use in spas.

STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

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Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

Wa r sINSIDER a w I n s|i JANUARY der: 01 – 3 1 M a r ch 2 0 1 1 WARSAW 2014

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

CLASSIFIEDS

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW? party. By the time I got home I had ten phone numbers, and all these invitations to go out. From that moment on I had a very rich social life. I never felt alone. Poland loves France, so why are there so few French restaurants? French cuisine is present everywhere, at least its influence. But French food isn’t easy in the same way Italian food can be. It’s complicated. So yes, there aren’t that many French restaurants. But in general, the French influence is everywhere. The main distribution companies, like Auchan, are French. Then, there’s so many words in the Polish language that have their roots in French. And look at Polish cinema – all the great directors speak perfect French and employ French actors. It’s all visible, though it’s disappearing a bit. Polish people have realized the way to communicate with the world is through English. How would you say Poland is perceived in France? A lot of French people see it as a sad and cold country, but that doesn’t change the fact that we support Poland. It’s a traditional ally, a friend. Up until WWII, when Poland had an elite class, French was their second language – it was spoken by all the aristocracy, by the intellectuals. As a French person, I feel a connection with Poland.

Food and wine distributor Frank Telling-Saphar reveals how a Frenchman ended up running a Spanish shop in Poland.

You’ve been here a while… I came out here in 1996 – my business school in Bordeaux sent me here on the Erasmus program. Warsaw felt like a paradox. It was sad, ugly, grey. There were lots of empty spaces. But the atmosphere was crazy. It was a wonderful time to discover the country. In those days Polish people had a very different notion of time. In very developed countries, time is money, but in those days Polish people had time. People were curious to talk to you, to find out more about the French guy. I had expected people to be emotionally cold, but instead found the opposite. So it wasn’t hard settling? When I first arrived I was a bit scared. Everything was different. Then, on my third day, I went out looking for cigarettes and popped into a bar. I got talking to a girl about where to go and what to do in Warsaw and found myself invited to a house

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2014

What was the last restaurant you visited? Casa Pablo, last week. A wonderful experience. Before you could almost describe the Spanish restaurants here as traditional fast food, tapas. But Casa Pablo is the first real Spanish restaurant with genuine cuisine. It’s not a fake restaurant. Speaking of Spain, how did you end up starting the shop? After my first stint in Poland I went to work in Spain for four years. When I decided to return here I saw that France had a big presence. With so many French distributors here the shops carried a lot of the basic French products, but there was nothing that was Spanish. That’s how I started the shop – first it was about food, food, food and just a bit of wine. Now though, that’s almost reversed. Given the choice, which do you prefer, French or Spanish wine? Wine is like music, it all depends on the context. But on the price/quality ratio Spanish wine is better. They have a lot of ‘wines of pleasure’ which is something France can’t compete with. For a chat with Frank, not to mention top quality Spanish and Mediterranean cheeses, olives, hams, wines and groceries, pop by Solera on Wilcza 26, www.solera.pl

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

THE FRENCH OPEN

Both countries are notorious for their drivers… In France our driving has changed a lot because of radars, because of speed cameras. With French drivers, it’s an issue of mentality. If they’re told not to do something, they’ll do the opposite. There’s a lack of discipline. In Poland though, it’s not a question of mentality, it’s a question of qualifications. In the 90s, I remember friends buying driving licenses. So you had these awful roads and on them, people who genuinely didn’t know how to drive.