Warsaw Insider October 2014 #218

Craft Bar Spotlight

The Art of Brewing page 10

Warsaw

page 12

Poland’s Top Beer Blogger page 14

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BALMAIN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT JIMMY CHOO KENZO MONCLER GAMME ROUGE KENZO MONCLER GAMME RALPH LAUREN ROUGE SALVATORERALPH FERRAGAMO LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

OCTOBER 2014 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

20 Golf

Contributors: Piers Bright Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

Poland’s top golf club swings open its doors to the Insider and gives us the drive of our lives in the process.

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

22 Gnome Man’s Land

Situated on Warsaw’s eastern fringe is an enchanted world of gnomes and lions, dinosaurs and strongmen. Stuart Dowell brings you the story…

public alert system devised in Cold War Britain. Essentially, and I’m short-cutting a bit here, if you heard it you had four minutes to get the hell out of dodge before something big and Soviet exploded in your garden. Well, for the sake of a cheap analogy, I think of October as the calendar equivalent of the four minute warning: move swiftly, because if you don’t, then you’ve got something equally nasty landing outside – the Polish winter, and that’s a Cold War you could really do without. So for me October out here is all about making the most of Warsaw before it wakes up shivering under frost. And in all fairness, as a last blast of glory, October is pretty special: vibrant, vivid colors, brilliant sunsets, light mists and hazy skies. I love it. To paraphrase Anne of Green Gables, I sometimes want to run out squealing, “I’m so happy to live in a Warsaw with October’s.” Enjoy.

24 Krajewski’s Wrocław

The Insider visits Wrocław to speak to best-selling crime author Marek Krajewski and to trace the footsteps of his creation, Detective Eberhard Mock.

LISTINGS

Restaurants 36 Cafes & Wine Bars 67 Nightlife 70 Shopping 77 Family 80 Health & Beauty 85 In the City 88

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

INFRONT

Opener 7 News 8 Spotlight 10 Design 12 Trends 14

INBACK

Classifieds 93 Map 94 Bar Spy 96

REVIEWS

Restaurants Bibenda 30 Restauracja Gruzja 30 Krucza 8 i Pól 34 Cafes Granola Cafe 35 Nightlife Jedna Trzecia 31

ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2014 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover The Wisła is flooded – with beer! Coinciding with Warsaw’s first beer festival, plus a fair bit of beer related content inside, our cover artist has gone for a capital city drowning in lager. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

I was reading about the ‘four minute warning’ the other day, a

Key Account Manager Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com

MONCLER RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH VALENTINO

BABY DIOR DOLCE&GABBANA KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

this month...

COMEDY

fair, food market and fashion zone.

Every Sun, 20:00 @ Cafe Niespodzianka, ul. Marszałkowska 7 A theatrical English-language performance group with a focus on improvised comedy. They say: “we’re always looking for talented people to join us on stage.”

CONCERT

Improv Sunday’s

For info see: improv.pl

CONCERT

James Blunt 3 Oct, 20:00@ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 Best-selling artist James Blunt visits Poland for the first time in five years, and just weeks before the re-release of his 2013 album Moon Landing. Tickets from zł. 159 @eventim.pl

CONCERT

Erlend Oye & His Band 4 Oct, 20:00 @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Formerly the front man of The Whitest Boy Alive, Norwegian Erlend Oye is well known for his synthpop, alternative sound not to mention his prolific output, DJ work and collaborations. His three date tour of Poland coincides with the recent release of his album Legao.

Editor’s Pick Beer Festival The first edition of the Warsaw Beer Festival will have over 60 breweries present, including stalwarts such as BrewDog, Evil Twin, Mikkeller, Westbrook, etc. www.warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl Tickets zł 5 @ Centrum Konferencyjno-Targowe, ul. Domaniewska 37

4 Oct, 17:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 The cult Swedish trio bring their blend of jazz fusion and pop rock to Poland for the first time, with tracks from this year’s album Loopified expected to feature prominently. Tickets from zł. 79 @ eventim.pl

RUN

Biegnij Warsaw 5 Oct, 11:00 @ ul. Czerniakowska The largest ‘fun run’ in Poland follows a ten kilometer route and is held in conjunction with the Maszeruję – Kibicuję walk. In 2009 the run was voted Warsaw’s top sporting event. For further info, see: biegnijwarszawo.pl

RECREATION

Night Skating 9 Oct Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 15km route. Starting at 20:30, usually by the Copernicus Monument on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the mass skate concludes at approximately 23:00. For details see: nightskating.waw.pl

CULINARY WORKSHOP

FESTIVAL

4 Oct, 10:00 @ Kitchen, ul. Widok 8 Chef Tomek Woźniak leads a five hour culinary workshop at his acclaimed restaurant, Kitchen. Joining the TV chef will be French sommelier Frank Telling of Solera and barista Paweł Trzciński of Java Coffee. The cooking part of the day will see Wózniak revealing the secrets to perfect guacamole, humus, ceviche and other classic ethnic dishes.

10-19 Oct @ various locations The WFF has evolved into one of the most prestigious festivals that Warsaw has on offer, something now recognized globally. The festival showcases the best of Polish, European and international cinema, with a mission statement that aims to increase international awareness of Polish film and culture. Audience interaction is encouraged by way of meetings and seminars with those involved in the industry.

Kuchnia, Kawa i Więcej

Warsaw Film Festival

For further info, see: wff.pl

FESTIVAL

CONCERT

3-4 Oct @ Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25 The tenth installment of FFF brings together over 30 international acts, including Trentmoller, Klaxons, Jon Hopkins and Moderat. And it won’t just be music. Expect food trucks, a record

13 Oct, 20:00 @ Towar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 Violinist, dancer and performance artist, Lindsey Stirling burst onto the scene in 2010 when she reached the quarter finals of America’s Got Talent.

FreeFormFestival

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

Dirty Loops

Tickets from zł. 65 @ eventim.pl

Tickets from zł. 250, enquire at mniam@ kitchenrestaurant

Two day tickets from zł. 220 @ ebilet.pl

Lindsey Stirling

Incorporating elements of classical, hip hop, pop and electronica, this eclectic musician has sold more than a million singles worldwide. Tickets from zł. 120 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Agnes Obel 13 Oct, 20:00 @ Stodola, ul. Batorego 10 Hailing from Copenhagen but residing in Berlin, Obel writes, composes and arranges truly beautiful music, as reflected by the success of her first two albums Philharmonics and Aventine. Tickets from zł. 120 @ eventim.pl

THEATER

Frankenstein 13-17 Oct @ Studio Buffo, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Produced by American Drama Groupe Europe and performed by TNT Theatre Britain, this English-language performance of Frankenstein is being billed as a ‘Gothic comedy’. Touring across Poland, Slovakia and the Czech Republic, this is one that expat theatre fans just can’t afford to miss. Tickets zł. 25

CONCERT

Tycho

15 Oct, 21:00 @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 American ambient artist Tycho ventures to Poland to promote his latest album Awake

– it peaked at No. 2 on the US dance / electronic album charts. Tickets from zł. 45 @ eventim.pl

ART

Art Market Poland 18 Oct, 11:00 @ ul. Bracka 25 Held for a second year running, Art Market Poland presents the work of the country’s upcoming designers and artists, with their work split into different categories: design, jewelry, fashion, kids, art and educational. Admission is free

CONCERT

Parov Stelar Band 20 Oct, 20:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 The Parov Stelar Band gained world attention with their debut album Rough Cuts – a perfect example of the trip hop genre. They’ve since evolved further, developing a lounge, down-tempo style full of warm electronic sounds. Tickets zł. 110 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

John Legend 24 Oct, 20:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 The winner of a staggering nine Grammy Awards, John Legend has topped countless charts and collaborated with some of the biggest names in world music. His visit to Poland is going to be massive. Tickets from zł. 195 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Skillet

28 Oct, 18:00 @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 This Memphis-based Christian rock band have sold over two million albums in the States and have been nominated for two Grammy Awards. Famed for their punishing touring schedules, their Poland trip is part of a wider 22 city European tour. Tickets from zł. 66 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Tricky

22 Oct @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Cited by the Guardian as “the best example to date of ethereal, twisted R&B,” FKA twigs found her third album, LP1, shortlisted for the 2014 Mercury Prize for British album of the year.

28 Oct, 20:00 @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Knowle West bad boy Tricky is celebrated for his dark sound and rasping lyrics. Formerly of Massive Attack, Tricky’s debut solo album, Maxinquaye, achieved global acclaim and a Mercury prize nomination. His latest studio album, Adrian Thaws, was released in September.

Tickets from zł. 105 @ eventim.pl

Tickets from zł. 100 @ eventim.pl

FKA twigs

www.warsawinsider.pl

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town PIZZA BOX

1974 The year…

… Poland’s first ‘modern’ pizzeria opened.

4,000

The estimated number… … of pizzerias in Poland

2,500 Dollars

The most expensive, commercially available pizza in the world

78 Per cent

NATIONAL

EMERGENCY (PIZZA) LANDING

PHOTOGRAPH BY SHUTTERSTOCK

Villagers in the north of Poland had the surprise of their lives when six US Army helicopters made an emergency landing in a nearby field before allegedly asking for directions to the nearest pizza joint. The five Black Hawks and one Chinook were taking part in a NATO exercise when heavy fog forced them to land in a farmer’s field outside the village of Gruta, 220 km north of Warsaw. One eyewitness claims some panicked locals originally mistook the landing as a military invasion. Once news spread the helicopters were American a crowd of curious onlookers gathered, bringing cakes and English-language tourist brochures to the pilots. The airmen reciprocated the hospitality by posing for snaps and letting locals sit at the controls. “They were here for two hours,” the local mayor told TVN24, “and asked if there was somewhere they could get a pizza – but there’s not much around here.” While cynics have dismissed the event as a PR stunt to drum up some local love, a spokesman for the US Army has said the pilots had no ulterior motive and took the correct action in inclement weather.

“I’m not scared what might happen with Russia, the Americans know where we are” QUOTE One eyewitness reacts to his unexpected American guests

Of takeaway food delivered in Poland is pizza

62 Per cent

Of Poles eat pizza once a month

37.4 Meters

The diameter of the largest pizza ever made

16th Century

The first recorded mention of something resembling pizza in Poland – at a royal wedding party

Knives

The world record for the number of knives thrown at a pizza in 30 seconds www.warsawinsider.pl

News

REAL ESTATE

CITY

The troubled Złota Tower project found itself under new ownership at the end of August after Amstar paid a cut-price zł. 260 million to take it off Orco’s hands. Designed by Daniel Liebeskind, the project has faced numerous problems ever since construction began in 2007. To date, 80% of the luxury apartments in the 192 meter skyscraper remain unsold.

It’s been announced that the controversial Four Sleepers Monument commemorating Polish / Soviet brotherhood will not return to its Praga home this year. Removed three years ago due to construction works, the monument has often been viewed as a much-loathed reminder of the Red Army’s inaction during the destruction of Warsaw. While officials claim that the reason it will remain in storage is due to other priorities, others see it as a deliberate move at a time of strained Russian / Polish relations.

Looking up for Złota

Do Not Disturb

INTERNET

Poland: Viral Alert

Serial Warsaw prankster SA Wardega returned to the headlines with his most successful video to date. Titled ‘Mutant Giant Spider Dog’, the YouTube vid has become a global sensation, clocking 90 million hits in its first week alone. Previous pranks have seen him posing as a super hero / public breast inspector called Boobs Man, and a beer swigging drunk that leads pursuing police on Benny Hill-style chases. His latest vid features candid footage of his dog dressed up in a tarantula outfit and the ensuing results as it runs about Warsaw visiting terror and panic on the unsuspecting public. But that’s not the only vid that’s had Poles and foreigners clicking. No Limit, a Polish extreme sports team, breached security at the Palace of Culture and Science by dressing up as priests in order to smuggle in parachutes for a daredevil base jump from the top of the tower. Dubbed ‘the phony fathers’ by one news channel, the four lads discarded their cassocks in the toilet before scaling barriers and making the 30-story jump. Like Wardega, No Limit have found their antics splashed across international news sites.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK, WIKICOMMONS, YOUTUBE

inFront

Trends

Polish brewing. Something special needed to happen, and fortunately it did: in May 2011, at the second edition of Wrocław’s Good Beer Festival, a contract brewery called Pinta made their debut. “We’d never seen anything like it before,” smiles Michał. “We were familiar with Czech and German beers, but these guys were using American hops. Their beer had everything: flavor, aroma, depth. People were amazed.” The next year AleBrowar (whose creators actually tapped Poland’s first Indian Pale Ale a couple of months before Pinta’s dramatic entry on the market), was launched. They were followed in June 2012 by Artezan, the country’s first craft, non-contract brewery. The floodgates had opened. Today, it’s estimated that each month brings with it one new brewery, two contract breweries and thirty to forty new beers. Yet still, demand outstrips supply, with batches selling No more is Poland a wasteland of watery yellow fizz – out before they’re even brewed. “Of now it’s all about the craft... course,” says Michał, “you do get crap, but that’s the nature of craft beer – nine out of ten batches will be ll meetings should be like revolutionize anything: they were outstanding but one will be rubbish this. It’s Monday afternoon, brewing stuff from a packet. They – that’s what happens when beer is and rather than sitting in were all making the same shitty trinmade by people, not machines. The the office I’m outside Kufle i Kapsle ity of dark lager, light lager and Weiss. people at the giant brands don’t have enjoying the last of the wilting I realized pretty quickly they weren’t that problem, but then they’re not Warsaw summer with a pint of going to change anything.” So who brewers, they’re software controllers.” Artezan Pacific. Opposite me is did, and just what did they change? With craft beer now accounting for Michał ‘Docent’ Maranda, a selfTo understand that one must go 1.7% of national beer sales (a rise confessed beer geek who, for the back to the political earthquake of 1.4% from the previous year), all last four years, has been running of 1989. “We had lots of small to eyes are on what happens next. “The the acclaimed Polskie Minibrowary medium-sized breweries around revolution began in America,” says website (polskieminibrowary.pl), a that time,” says Michał, “but in the Michał, “and while I wouldn’t say catch-all platform with absolutely early 90s they were bought out and we’ve copied them, we’ve followed everything you need to know about closed by the big foreign companies. a similar path.” With sour beers and craft beer in Poland. What we saw was the disintegration ‘new wave’ hops trending in the US, “Actually,” announces Michał, “the of Polish brewing.” For years after Michał expects Poland to soon follow name of the site is inappropriate. brewing became homogenized and suit. But will craft conquer all? “Mass When I started it I really thought that the art lost. “In terms of good beer,” production will always exist,” he says, it would be the microbreweries at the says Michał, “Warsaw was a desert. “and the majority will always drink the front end of Poland’s beer revolution, Everywhere you went you’d get ‘Euro commercial stuff, but people from the but I was wrong. Between 2003 and lager’: tasteless stuff, the brewing mainstream are coming into this niche 2010 about fifty microbreweries – I equivalent of McDonald’s.” and it’s my dream to see craft beer mean restaurant breweries – opened With the microbreweries failing achieve 10% of the market share.” across the country, but they didn’t to deliver, hope was fading for Brewers of Poland: it’s over to you.

It’s Hip to be Hops

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

inFront

Design WI: How did Ostecx get involved in beer label design? MR: First, we got involved with beer! We’re beer lovers, and some of us even brew our own. We were always convinced there was a lot of work to be done in beer label design and we wanted to be involved. Now we are.

The Art of the Craft

AleBrowar didn’t just revolutionize the world of domestic artisan beer, but the world of Polish beer label design. We talk to Michał Rybczyński of Ostecx Créative – the creative agency behind the branding…

So, how does the creative process work between yourselves and AleBrowar – do they tell you, right, give us an Octopus on the label… Usually AleBrowar send us their plans relating to their next style of the beer. For example, the brand manager will call us and will say, “guys, we’re about to brew an Indian Pale Ale that’ll be ready for September – let’s get it on!” After that it’s all us. We’re responsible for the name and the labels. But we have to connect to the style of beer – or a special event – and the ‘brand hero’ has to have a consistent story. The exception was Golden Monk. They said to us, “it’s our tenth beer, you design everything and we’ll brew the beer to match.” What’s the favorite label you’ve worked on? Golden Monk. It’s not often the client demonstrates that much trust in their agency. It was a pretty unique situation. They said to us, “look, you’ve done a lot for us, now we want to do something for you.” We were like, “whaaaaat!? Awesome!”

Which other beer labels do you admire? Ooh, lots! We like Mikkeller, they have their own specific style. Our art director actually collects their labels. I should also mention the redesigned Brewdog, Yebisu, Partizan Brewing and Prairie Artisan Ales. What’s your opinion on the design of the standard ‘Euro lagers’... There’s a lot of work to be done. Times are changing and designs should keep up. It’s no longer just about the product, producers are more and more conscious about the packaging, too. We’ve got work to do!

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

IMAGES COURTESY OF OSTECX CRÉATIVE

How does your style differ with other breweries? Every brand has its own style. It all depends on the brand strategy, target group and ‘brand world’ – every brand has to tell a story. We use different styles and work to creative briefs – we rely on them to make designs that are appropriate and consistent. Understanding the brand is the key in any ad agency work.

Restauracja Dom Polski ul. Francuska 11 03-906 Warszawa Tel. 22Â 616 2488 / 22Â 616 2432 www.restauracjadompolski.pl restauracjadompolski@wp.pl

inFront

Spotlight Dynamic duo, Piotrek Ptaszyński (left) and Kuba Linowski (right) of Cześć. Cheers lads!

Master Craft

Launched in May 2013, Cześć began life as a neighborhood café bar with a twist on quirky, regional brews. Over time, however, it has morphed into something else: a cult ‘mini-tap’ renowned for its friendly welcome and experimental Polish beers. Piotrek Ptaszyński, one half of the team behind it, gives his thoughts on the beers of Poland.

I ’d probably go for Artezan as my favorite brewery, I like nearly every beer they’ve ever made. Of the lesser known ones, Browar Podgórz is great – I think my favorite brewery this year. Every beer they make is exciting. It’s all made by just one guy and the quality is amazing. In terms of design I loved Deep Love by AleBrowar and Nogne O. And the beer was great as well: strong, complex and a mix of different flavors. It was made using West Coast hops, Belgian yeast and rye malt – an interesting combination. I’d rather drink a glass of water than have one of the low-cost beers from the three big breweries. Even though the craft beer revolution hadn’t began when we opened, we knew from the start we didn’t want anything to do with the principal breweries.

For a long time my favorite beer was Pacific, it felt like Poland’s first perfect beer. This year, I’d say my top choice is Space Sheep by Browar Podgórz: it’s light, hoppy and very drinkable. But it’s impossible to choose a favorite, we’re getting at least one good beer a week now in Warsaw. Cześć

ul. Grzybowska 2, www.czesc.waw.pl

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

I’m not a guy who suffers much from hangovers. Of course, the easiest solution the next day is a beer, but that’s not a good thing to do. I recommend getting rid of the poisons with spicy food like a good Indian vindaloo, some sweaty physical work and then a cold shower. After that, you can have a beer.

inFront

Urban Design

Bike Path under Most Poniatowskiego by Mikołaj Molenda & Kama Wybieralska “As a driver, cyclist and pedestrian living in Saska Kępa, I know all the possible scenarios associated with crossing the bridge. To fully comply with the law cyclists have to carry their bike across, though those that choose not to face heavy traffic or cycling on a curb busy with pedestrians. It’s dangerous, and with more and more inexperienced cyclists on the roads the situation will worsen. It was important to have the cycle bridge below the level of the road for three reasons: avoid collisions with traffic, lessen the noise factor and bring cyclists closer to nature. While the contours of the bridge would change, it wouldn’t affect the protected parts of the structure. Sometimes you have to modify architecture to meet actual needs…” Mikołaj Molenda

THE FUTURE is ours to see

No website excites the Insider more than Futuwawa (futuwawa.pl). And the latest installment of their annual competition for potential designs to shape Warsaw’s future has been better than ever. Some might happen, others will not – but all are amazing. Here’s our favorites… Bankowy Square Revisited by Edward Dylawerski “Despite the importance of Pl. Bankowy it remains a tarmac desert punctuated by bus and tram stops. The aim of the design is to give the space back to the pedestrian while reshaping the square. The proposal assumes underground work in order to create parking and a car tunnel underneath to link Marszałkowska with Andersa.” Edward Dylawerski

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

Wyciąg_Anię by Tomasz Rychlewski Each winter Warsaw grinds to a halt with the onset of snow. Tomasz Rychlewski’s idea for an overhead ski lift operating behind Marszałkowska envisions an end to city center traffic jams while also giving a mountain holiday twist to the capital! It’d be cheap to implement, adds Rychlewski, and also great fun!

The Bionic Building – ul. Towarowa / Prosta by Marcin Gromczewski “I wanted to create something new for Warsaw, but in reality this building could be anywhere – to design it I’ve used algorithmic definitions, which have helped shape my ideas in a clear way and translate them into architectural language. I like using new things, trying new ways, but only when the situation demands it.” Marcin Gromczewski

Urban Bow Tie by Michał Kowaski & Aleksandra Kaszubska The aim of this mobile mini-pavilion is to lend new life to disused public spaces, and to turn them into ‘elegant urban lounges’. Fulfilling ‘a pro-social function’, Urban Bow Tie utilizes elements and themes of ecodesign and inner city regeneration.

www.warsawinsider.pl

inFront

Photography

The Past is a Foreign Country

Coinciding with the close of ‘John Vachon: Three Times in Poland’, Dom Spotkań z Historią are set to release an album inspired by this noteworthy photographic exhibition…

hen American photographer, John Vachon, visited Poland in 1946 it was to record the activity of the UNRRA humanitarian mission. He returned twice more, this time as a photo journalist for Look magazine, in 1956 and 1963. His collection of photographs, the bulk shot in Warsaw, offer an unrivalled glimpse into the Poland of the past: one emerging from the shadow of war, a nation of despair and ruin. His pictures, almost poetic in nature, depict a country of strength and sadness, heartbreak and hope. The exhibition – closing this month – and subsequent book, are a rare, almost unique glimpse into Poland’s recovery and the day-to-day lives of its people at the time. Deeply moving and endlessly compelling, Vachon’s photographs have been beautifully preserved and sensitively re-mastered. While John Vachon died in 1975, his legacy did not. Following close collaboration between his daughter, Ann, and Sławomir Rybałtowski, a Warsaw-phile who first stumbled on Vachon’s work online, the 2014 exhibition was created to mark what would have been the photographer’s 100th birthday. It was the first time many of his photographs of Poland had been viewed in the public domain. The photo album, slated for release at the end of October, ensures Vachon’s work will never again be forgotten.

Clockwise from top: John Vachon on the roof of the Polonia Hotel. Directly in front is the future site of the Palace of Culture and Science; Kościuszkowskie Riverfront. A UNNRA engineer demonstrates the intricacies of a portable water purification plant. Reconstructed Most Poniatowskiego is visible in the background; the corner of ul. Marszałkowska and al. Jerozolimskie as seen from the top of the Polonia Palace.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

Clockwise from top right: the ruins of Warsaw Central Train Station. It was completed in 1939, only to be destroyed five years later after the Warsaw Uprising; Ralph Nelson, a tractor specialist, shows a US Army bulldozer to local officials amid the devastated ruins of the former Ghetto; a chapel amidst the ruins of Politechniki Square at the outlet of Lwowska Street.

www.warsawinsider.pl

SPORT GOLF

Fairway to heaven

The Insider enjoys the ultimate drive at Poland’s most championed golf course. BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

ou should feel free to say what you want about golf because, in all truth, the rest of the world already has. A google of the terms ‘golf’ and ‘quotes’ brings up a wealth of words, many of which center on the game’s capacity to exasperate. Mark Twain, for instance, called it a ‘good walk spoiled’. Another unidentified source went further, claiming ‘golf is a lot of walking, broken up by disappointment and bad arithmetic’. Personally though, I disagree. But that’s because I’ve spent the last five hours on the course at First Warsaw Golf Club and barely broken into a stride. Instead, I’ve been haring around in a nifty, little buggy having the time of my life. Twain was wrong and I’ll happily testify against him. Now although it’s commonly accepted that golf was born in Scotland, sometime around the 14th century, its history in Poland is a little less venerable. Warsaw’s original golf club opened in 1928, and while it was more-or-less prohibitive to the rank and file, it was embraced by the toffs. Famously, in 1935, Polish aristocrat Karol Radziwiłł triumphed over the Duke of York in a game exhaustively covered by the

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

media. And then it all went wrong. Just as golf was gaining popularity WWII broke out. With peace came communism, and the game was swiftly banned for its associations with the upper echelons of society. Poland would have to wait until 1992 for the opening of the First Warsaw Golf & Country Club, the nation’s first postwar golf course. Since then, FWGCC has been joined by approximately 25 other clubs sprinkled about the country, though it remains the most high profile in PL. That said, talk to any golfer and they’ll say there was a time when FWGCC was more infamous than famous. Allowed to deteriorate by its previous owners, a nadir was reached when the clubhouse burned down a few years back. As it proved, this was a blessing in disguise and its ambitious new owner set about pouring his energy into reviving it. What started as a business plan became a project of passion. As we arrive the new clubhouse is certainly not what I expected. There was me thinking it’d be all Chesterfield sofas, wood paneling and pewter tankards hanging from

“ Set amongst undulating landscape and 150-year old oaks, one feels totally disconnected from Warsaw’s thump and thunder.”

the bar. Instead, it’s bright, light and full of buzz. But that can all wait till later – first, there is a game to play. Actually, there isn’t a game to play because when it comes to golf I don’t know an eagle from a birdie nor a bogey from a par. And isn’t a bunker something terrorists hide in? So instead, having blagged a pass for the day, I’m here to generally snoop about and understand the atmosphere, if not the strange complexities of this noble pastime. Doing so allows me to fulfill a childhood dream – to tear about in a golf cart, or a Melex as they’re known out here. With the photographer in the front, and our caddy for the day at the wheel, I’m left clinging onto the back as we pelt it around the course. As it happens, today is the first day of the Ladies Masters and, spotting a photo opportunity, we hit top speed as we whistle after another buggy commandeered by attractive women. Our pursuit is fast and frenzied, and combines elements of Benny Hill and James Bond as we whizz over the course chasing our prey. It’s brilliant, and both me and the photographer are left grinning ear to ear. “Tell the truth,” demands the photogra

pher, “when everyone else is gone for the day, do you ever just race around here for a laugh?” The caddy looks puzzled and answers by smiling politely. Clearly, the golf here is a serious business, and one reflected by a revamped course that’s amongst the best in Central Eastern Europe. Covering 20,000 sq/m, it’s also quite a beauty. Set amongst undulating landscape and 150-year old oaks, one feels totally disconnected from Warsaw’s thump and thunder. The air is clear, the sky is big and the silence pure – there is no sound bar the occasional ball being thwacked by a distant five iron. Marvelous. As we conclude our drive, we do so at the recently completed 18th hole, an island that has raised the course to Par 72 and got golfers around the country rushing to check it out. Looking at it, even a non-golfer can understand why. Retiring to the clubhouse, we take stock of the afternoon on the terrace, and it’s the next couple of hours that come to define our day. I can take or leave the golf aspect but it’s here, sat on the wooden lakeside deck, that one realizes what it’s all about. Amongst all the diamond patterned jumpers, clashing colored clothing and Lacoste sun visors there is an atmosphere like no other: one of comfortable contentment and discreet luxury. Over a magical meal and ice cold Pilsner’s we sit and watch the sun set over the lush green fairways and glinting water. Swans glide languidly in front of us and, at one stage, we are joined for dinner by a group of quacking ducks and a curious goose. With the sky blushing scarlet we sit back cocooned in a high state of bliss. I don’t ever want this day to end. For all I care Warsaw, 25 kilometers away, could be on another planet. It’s that escapism, I conclude, that golf is all about. First Warsaw Golf & Country Club

ul. Golfowa 44 (Rajszew), fwgcc.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

LOCAL LANDMARK

Gnome Man’s Land

Set over an acre or two off the E30 near KFC in Wesoła lies a Gnoman Empire of enchanting garden figures. This is the story of one man and his remarkable passion. BY STUART DOWELL | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

f you don’t love what you do, then there is no point doing it”. It’s on this set of rules that 79-year old Antoni Adadyński, the owner and creator of Adax, has lived his life. A gnome and animal figure gallery, film set and garden furniture store, Adax (adax.waw.pl) is an enchanted strip of land where the Wizard of Oz meets Ranczo. After a firm handshake, Pan Antoni, who has been developing the site since he bought it in 1980, explains that he started by selling tyres and peat from two shipping containers that still stand there today. Later, he branched out into breeding parrots, black swans and peacocks. “I’ve never worked an 8-hour day, it’s only ever been 24,” he says, and the pigeon loft, chicken coop, aviary, summer cottage, 16-person BBQ party house, store, workshop and partially-built WWII monument stand testimony to the dogged pursuit of his uncompromising vision. Now, the animals for sale are made of fibre glass and stone, and include bears, bulls, horses, frogs, turtles, more dogs than the away end at Crufts and rabbits. A row of lions sit proudly at the entrance, stopping a group of excited gnomes from escaping. A huddle of angels loiter next to some unruly cherubs, while apple-cheeked boys whisper among themselves. The largest and most impressive figures are a scary Triceratops and two T-Rexes, though Charlie Chaplin, a bodybuilding champion and a fat chef seem to be unconcerned about the presence of these Cretaceous period anachronisms. Pan Antoni admits that the place has already seen its

glory days. “Sixteen people used to work for me here,” he explains. “There wasn’t even time for a cup of tea, now it’s just me, and my wife and grandson who help out sometimes.” Among all the exotic chattel, Pan Antoni stands out as the most colourful and interesting character. With muttonchop sideburns and an amber-encrusted cross draped outside his Levi’s shirt, he tells of his past work as a shipbuilder in Gdańsk, as a social worker, and an entrepreneur battling socialist ideology and bureaucracy to produce rubber automotive components, Italian-style shoes and even a popular magazine for housewives. A patriotic Pole and keen historian, Pan Antoni sheds a poignant single tear as he describes the Polish blood wasted at Monte Cassino, Poland’s later betrayal by the Allies and the absence of Poles at the victory parade in London in 1946. So strong are his feelings that his current project is a scale model of the abbey at Monte Cassino perched on a small mound next to the birdhouse. Plans are well afoot, with turf leading to the ramparts already laid. There is even a replica of Wojtek the bear, who was purchased in 1942 by soldiers in the Polish II Corps in Iran. The bear reached the rank of corporal in the 22nd Artillery Supply Company, had a penchant for marmalade, took his meals in the mess tent with the other soldiers and excelled in wrestling, winning all his bouts with the loser invariably getting his face well licked. After the war, Wojtek settled in Glasgow, became a local sensation and joined the Polish

Scottish Association, regularly attending meetings at which he often enjoyed a beer with other members. But the mood darkens when we talk of the future. Pan Antoni bemoans the arrival of big-box hypermarkets and DIY stores that have taken away many of his customers. Indeed, violin-playing elves could be counted in greater numbers during my visit. The benefits of Warsaw’s stratospheric leap into economic Eldorado haven’t been spread evenly and neither Pan Antoni nor his inspired creation will be around forever. Go and see them now while you can, and maybe even buy something while you’re there.

“ Wojtek settled in Glasgow and became a local sensation”

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INTERVIEW MAREK KRAJEWSKI

A CRIMINAL Master Mind Set to the sleazy backdrop of inter-war Breslau (today’s Wrocław), Marek Krajewski’s detective novels have been hailed as crime noir fiction at its finest. The Insider learns more about the man behind the pen... BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

Where did your idea of a detective staking the streets of interwar Breslau come from? This is a very complicated place with a complex historical background – it’s belonged to Germany, Czech and Poland. That history has left many footsteps around the city. Under communism no-one spoke about the German past, the communists wanted to build the idea that Wrocław was always Polish. But I saw the German footsteps. I tried to capture this history through my invention, Det. Eberhard Mock. I love crime stories and I love history – I connected these two interests through him. Your books are known for their precise level of historical detail. Your research must have been painstaking? Oh it was very complicated. I’d sit in the University library for hours, reading German era newspapers, address books and directories, finding the names of restaurants and looking through old adverts for beers, perfume and cigarettes. And, of course, maps, the old maps of Breslau. The research wasn’t easy but it was such an interesting trip into the past.

When you started out as an author that must have been beyond your wildest dreams? I’m amazed. But look, when I finished my first book I didn’t even imagine the book being published, let alone having a museum dedicated to my character. The 90s was a bad time for authors in Poland. The literary market was incredibly small in those days, and no-one was writing crime stories. Why did this change? You’d have to ask the publishers and their risk assessors – I’m just an author! But I think during communism crime fiction was regarded as lower class literature, you wouldn’t find academics admitting to reading it. But times have changed.

While you gave up lecturing seven years ago, for a time you pursued both careers. How did your colleagues and students react to your other life? I remember teaching Latin grammar classes in the lead-up to exam season. I noticed all of a sudden there were a lot of students interested in my work: “what beautiful books you write,” they’d Eberhard Mock doesn’t play by the rules. He’s not Mr. Nice say. Of course, it didn’t help them come exam time! As for my Guy. What similarities do you share? colleagues, they were astonished when they heard for the first Well, of course there are details I have in common with my time. I mean, for much of the year I was a very serious academic ‘hero’. I’m very pedantic, very accurate, which is clearly one of teacher but in summer I’d go to Antonin to write. It was a double his features. I’m also a classicist, having studied and taught classi- life of sorts. But after a few years they got used it, they ‘had my cal theology at the University. And he loves very fatty food – well back’ so to speak. me too! But that’s where the similarities stop. What is your writing routine… It’s all set in inter-war Breslau. How has the reaction been with I’m very pedantic – I work nine to five, five days a week. For six regards to covering a chapter of local history that some would or seven hours I’ll be sat in front of the computer with my door rather not remember… locked. There’ll be no cigarettes, no coffee, just a strong pot of tea Before 1989 there were many taboos in Poland, and that and maybe a little music: Bach. I’ve got a big flat in an old buildincluded Wrocław’s German past. But straight after the political ing and my room is filled with books, 3,000 I think. There’s lots of changes you’d see the locals buying up books with photos of the old manuscripts lying around, books in Latin, German and from old city, comparing pictures – they wanted to know what stood the 18th century. The only new thing in there is the computer, here before and connect to the past. Wrocław is our home and everything else, all the bookshelves and tables, are 19th century. we feel comfortable with it and comfortable with its multiIt’s a comfortable environment in which to write. cultural history. That’s a great thing about this city. How did the first book come about? In 1997 the region was hit by very heavy flooding and I had to evacuate from the city. I went to the country, staying in this wooden house in the forest. In the panic I left all my materials for my thesis behind, so all of a sudden I had a lot of time but nothing to do. I decided to write the novel that had always been sitting in the back of my head. After a few months it was finished! What is it about the inter bellum that fascinates you? The whole period is compelling. There was a deviancy to the time: so many of these occult groups, strange sects, practitioners of the black arts, Satanists and suchlike. There was an atmosphere of real decadence and I’ve tried to convey that. You’ve been translated into 20 languages. People who might otherwise never have heard of Wrocław / Breslau now have because of your books. You’ve done a lot for the city, has the city helped you at all? I have a very good relationship with the city. For example, in 2016 Wrocław will be the European Capital of Culture, and as part of that the city is going to create the Eberhard Mock Literary Museum, along the lines of the Sherlock Holmes Museum in London. They’re going to recreate Mock’s flat!

“ I love crime stories and I love history: I connected these two interests through Eberhard Mock”

Who inspires you? Raymond Chandler is my ultimate literary master. I just love his books and his principal character, Philip Marlowe. And, secondly, I love those French crime films from the 60s and 70s – the films by Jean-Pierre Melville, with these brutal detectives, are fantastic. Is there any news on the film front? Yes, in the New Year Oscar nominee Agnieszka Holland will make four film adaptations of the books. It’ll be an international production and while I don’t know who’ll play Mock, it’d be my dream to have Kevin Spacey! She did direct an episode of House of Cards starring Spacey, and he also appeared in a Polish advert for BZ WBK bank recently, so who knows! www.warsawinsider.pl

TRAVEL KRAJEWSKI’S WROCŁAW

Following in the Footsteps

The Breslau of Krajewski’s maverick detective, Eberhard Mock, is a place of “tight, crowded quarters of tenements.” It is a city of “monumental buildings enclosed in the neo-Gothic red of bricks,” and of “islands weighed down by churches and wrapped in the embrace of the dirty green snake of the Oder.” With locations frequently namechecked by the author, pick up one of the widely available pre-war maps of Breslau to follow in the footsteps of Eberhard Mock.

Clockwise from top left: the university quarter, where so many of the brothels frequented by the detective were once located; he would frequently seek solace in the bars around Włodkowicka and Antoniego. These hostelries no longer exist, but Mleczarnia bar certainly retains the yesteryear spirit; the creepy prison, and flanking it on Podwale 31-33, Police HQ; a sense of timelessness in what is now Świdnicka in the Rynek – a favorite hangout; another police station once used by Mock appears on Szewska 49, today it is part of the University.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

WROCŁAW IN A BOX

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK

The world that Detective Mock prowls is a place of murk and murder. Using powerfully intricate prose, Krajewski evokes the spirit of a decadent town that thrashes to the backbeat of moral decay. As Mock attends the latest grisly crime scene, the reader is sucked into the shadowy half-world of Breslau on the brink. Walking the city, past its stooping townhouses and curving old alleys, it doesn’t take much to connect to the pages. But Wrocław – renamed postwar – is more than a good backdrop for a murder mystery. Today it’s embodied by its prosperous economy and confident gait, its positive attitude and beguiling city center…

WHERE TO STAY

The Monopol (hotel.com.pl) is the grande dame of the local scene, and has a list of guests that involves Dietrich and Picasso. What they won’t tell you is that Hitler once made a speech from the balcony. Sensitively updated, the Monopol is a luxurious ensemble of marble and walnut and swank modern trimmings. Mock’s

residence, now mummified with scaffolding, is down the road at pl. Teatralny 1. Alternatively, the Puro (purohotel.pl) is a design masterpiece featuring floor-toceiling windows and a très chic look.

WHERE TO EAT

Visitors spoiled by the capital often come away bitterly disappointed by the restaurants of Wrocław. Avoid joining their ranks by fine dining in Mosaiq (mosaiq.pl). Though the prices aren’t far off some of Warsaw’s top tables, neither is the experience. Szajnochy 11 (szajnochy11. pl) is another venue that’d be welcomed in Warsaw, and touts new interpretations of Japanese food. Those with more basic tastes head to Butchery & Grill (butcheryandgrill.pl), a blood and bones affair of prime red meat.

WHERE TO DRINK

Wrocław’s reputation as a party town is thoroughly warranted. While several bars have devoted themselves to artisan beer, Kontynuacja (kontynuacjapub.pl) is the best of the bunch. Find 22 taps, a cool crowd and a giant wolf-thing browsing under tables. Elsewhere Motyl Noga (Więzenna 6) is a dive bar par-excellence housed in the former medieval prison,

though think nowhere else than Kalambur (kalambur.org) for the seminal local knees-up. The secessionist style belies the mayhem.

WHAT TO SEE

Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) is the city’s cradle. Its bending streets are endlessly picturesque, and are reached by crossing Tumski Bridge: now glittering and garnished with padlocks left by loved-up couples. Symbol of eternal love or a ditzy Euro trend? You decide. Back across the water, traditionalists appreciate the Racławice Panorama, a 140-meter wraparound canvas depicting Kościuszko’s military triumph over Russia in 1794. In contrast, The Contemporary Museum (muzeumwspolczesne.pl) occupies a former flak tower, though its edgy art is frequently upstaged by the vertically positioned train that stands outside. The Old Town, though, is the best place to maximize your cultural intake, and our ultimate advice is to simply let your instincts be your compass. Even so, keep an eye out for the gnomes! Find 250 of the blighters hiding around Old Town. In the 80s the gnome was used as a symbol by a surrealist political protest group; decades on and they’ve been adopted as something of the city mascot.

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LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 36 CAFES & WINE BARS 67 NIGHTLIFE 70 SHOPPING 77 FAMILY 80 HEALTH & BEAUTY 85 IN THE CITY 88

In Shopping Retro Design

So-called ost-algia, modern trinkets designed using communist aesthetics, have become big news. Join the queues and enjoy the past-perfectâ&#x20AC;Ś

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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Pictured: SpodLady on Chmielna, at the forefront of the design revolution www.warsawinsider.pl

REVIEWS A Ticket to Tbilisi A khachapuri craving fulfilled

y wife and I have had a few opportunities to visit Tbilisi over the last four years for her work, and have both fallen in love with the Georgian capital. Partly, this was because of its habitants: genuine people with real warmth and soul. And that’s something that shines through in the dishes they prepare. But replicating and recapturing these experiences in Warsaw was always a non-starter. Until, that is, Gruzja launched on Chmielna. A true test of any ethnic restaurant is, of course, if the dishes you had out there stand up to scratch back home. In my case, that meant courses like khachapuri, badrijani and chinkali. The khachapuri we ordered was of the megruli type, a flat, leaven bread with cheese on top, though we noticed that the boat-shaped one with an egg on top (Adjarian) looked amazing and was being feverishly devoured by the next door table. Another staple in all of our restaurant excursions is the appetizer, badrijani. These are eggplant slices that are rolled and filled with a mixture of walnuts and Georgian spices. These were so good that we both agreed they were almost as good as the ones we enjoyed round someone’s home just outside Tbilisi. Lastly, we ordered chinkali: every Georgian’s favorite dough purse of broth and meaty goodness. These were ultra-delicate and bursting with flavor – so good we ordered another round to side-step the inevitable ‘whose getting the last one’ conflict. Waiting for our order, drinking the last of the saperavi, I turned to my wife and asked, “doesn’t Warsaw look like Tbilisi?” She smiled knowing exactly what I meant. (KD)

Restauracja Gruzja

ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.smakigruzji.pl

Belly up to the Bar Dining alone ain’t so bad

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

used to work with an editor in New York who told me that she had a rotation of local restaurants she would visit each night after work since she hated to cook (even though we worked together on a food magazine). I remember asking her if she felt awkward going to restaurants by herself and she gleefully told me – as if sharing a secret – that she only visited places where she could eat alone at the bar. Over the years since then, I have discovered that I too like the solitary pleasure of dining alone. I like the causal banter with the bartender, not to mention sitting perched over a menagerie of people interacting over food. While this might be an obvious observation to any French person who grew up with a local bistro on their corner, it’s not so obvious here in Warsaw. It was, however, an obvious decision for Bibenda. With the bar taking center stage from the moment you enter, you might not even consider it a restaurant at all. But where a pleasant night is concerned, they do everything right: a good meal, a friendly face and something delicious to drink. One typical example of this is my last trip, which consisted of sizzling merguez sausages and market vegetables served on top of a puree of roasted red onion, blackcurrant and chipotle – all washed down with a crisp and hoppy Artezan IPA. Immensely satisfying, it was the kind of dish you want to cook at home, or speak to the chef and decipher the secrets of his technique. And sure, sitting at the bar, you can do just that – providing you have the courage to speak-up and polish your Polish. (KD) Bibenda

ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, open Tue-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bibenda.pl

The Imperial Strikes Back

Founded eight years back by a 30 something math teacher, the Danish Mikkeller brewery has grown into one of the most formidable artisan breweries in the world. Head to Jedna Trzecie to sample their Black, a full-bodied stout that was once dubbed ‘the strongest beer in Scandinavia’. Pitch black and thicker than an oil slick, this intense beer is one to celebrate – and at zł. 50 a bottle, so it should be Jedna Trzecie ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 459 588

Vintage denim at Safripsti

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In Nightlife: Flight Night

There’s no need to go far to sample the best craft beers in the world: check yourself into one of Warsaw’s many tap bars for a flight of beer and a taste of bliss...

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Pictured: rack them up at Kufle i Kapsle

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

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REVIEWS

Half-Hearted Efforts… … At Krucza Eight and a Half

strange place is Krucza. If there’s any other street with a higher turnover of restaurants then I’ve yet to find it – and I’m not just talking about Warsaw. Yet in spite of the impossible rents – reputedly amongst the steepest in the city – there’s no shortage of chumps willing to give the restaurant trade a crack. “One day,” they seem to think, “one of us will get lucky here.” Eight and a Half are the latest spot to put their neck on the executioner’s block. It’s Tuesday afternoon, and there’s a scattering of people: a group of wine-sipping women at the top end, an American hack I know from years back and, closest to me, a couple of young creative types that beam smug, million złoty grins. And while I like the look of the place, you’d label it ‘anonymous cosmopolitan’. Without the aid of my notebook I’d struggle to remember what it looks like (for the record, my notes go something like this: concrete, ascetic, splashes of color). I like their pared down attitude to menu creation and I order the tartar with something approaching confidence. My faith proves justified. The tartar trio is good – the meat is fresh, finely chopped and full of sparky flavors. It’s an impressive start. As it turns out, this is the apex. As my plate is cleared I am joined by our snapper, and after a considerable wait our mains arrive. For him, it’s zander with spinach and a heap of boiled vegetables. From an aesthetic point of view it looks unbalanced and dreary. My guinea fowl breast looks better, but is something of a conundrum: there are bits I enjoy, other bits I don’t.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

The flesh is tender and gamey and the skin crisp. The glazed carrots are tasty, but too numerous in number. I wonder, did I order guinea fowl with carrots on the side or vice versa. Then there’s the potato puree: again, decent, but lacking silky magic. And, sweet Jesus, there is dill – like a dodgy green rash, it appears everywhere. As we reflect on the mains, both of us are in agreement: fundamentally, they’ve been good, yet somehow a little pedestrian. The ingredients are quality and they’ve been cooked with technical competence, but at no time have we noticed any brilliance or invention. We wonder if the chef has been handcuffed into promising no funny moves in the kitchen, no moments of madness and no flights of fancy. Our theory is reinforced by the crème caramel dessert: fine, but no better or worse than anything you’d find in a decent hotel. There are many hints of skill in the kitchen, yet no evidence of creativity, passion and energy. At a time when restaurants in Warsaw are taking exciting, culinary risks, it’s disappointing to find a place that doesn’t try and explore the talents in their kitchen a little more. As we conclude the meal I realize there has never been that point where I’ve paused and thought, “and next time, I’ll come here with the Mrs.” In fact, there’s never been that moment where I’ve thought there even will be a next time. (AW) Krucza 8 i Pól

ul. Nowogrodzka 10 (enter from Krucza), tel. 784 461 397

Cereal Killer

In the place of a former burger joint, a healthier alternative has opened to help Varsovians feel better about themselves. Not only serving granola (made on the premises without added sugar) and yogurt, this sister team serve the best coffee in the neighborhood (100% Arabica, freshly roasted locally in Warsaw). Granola

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Nowogrodzka 10, www.granolacafe.pl

Pictured: savory pork belly with white beans

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restaurants KEY $ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 Best of Warsaw Award Winner 2013 New listings are in RED

Qchnia Artystyczna

FIVE AUTUMN EATS Autumn has been described as ‘the year’s last, loveliest smile’. Before Warsaw reverts back to being all gloom and grey, enjoy October’s golden haze from five park-side haunts… BELVEDERE (Agrykola 1) Set inside Łazienki, Warsaw’s fairytale park, there’s something endlessly romantic about this recently renovated orangery. Enjoy Adam Komar’s contemporary Polish cuisine from inside updated interiors that stare onto the park’s beautifully clipped gardens. BOATHOUSE (Wał Miedzeszyński 389A) The Mediterranean cuisine has you thinking about the summer. How did it go so quickly? There’s something beautifully melancholic about looking out across the river, with the city’s silhouette shimmering in the haze, CENTRAL PARK (Belwederska 13) When the autumn fog sets Morskie Oko, with its creepy Gothic trimmings and haunted house (ul. Morskie Oko 5), takes on an almost Silent Hill element. But it’s all about community and friendship at Central Park, a laidback spot with casual diners in mind. NA LATO (Rozbrat 44) The home of summer madness, Na Lato might have lost some of its starlit seasonal mojo with the onset of the fall, but its lost none of its allure. Floor-to-ceiling windows inside a long, narrow hall afford grandstand views of the gold carpeted park. QCHNIA ARTYSTYCZNA (Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2) More modern Polish cooking, this time served inside a restored Baroque castle with commanding views of the park down below. After, walk down ul. Agrykola: on a misty night, when the gas lamps are lit, it’s Warsaw’s top romantic stroll.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin middle eastern polish scandinavian seafood specialty food shops steak houses whole foods

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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

listings / restaurants La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00, www. lamama.eu Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat. But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 Upstairs it’s a burger joint, one of Warsaw’s best. Downstairs, a modern American restaurant overseen by Jan Piecuch – former chef of Signature. Offering a different menu to the lunch-on-the-run options of upstairs, the monthly card is serious in its intent (there’s even a 5-course tasting menu), with well-marbled 21-day Hereford steak, dainty crab cakes and creative soups. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style

look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, open 9:00-24:00, www.jeffs.pl Head to Jeff’s for supersize portions from the ribs and wings class. Servings might be big, but don’t anticipate any further fireworks with regards to the food. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri & Sat 11:0023:00; Sun 11:00-22:00, www.sioux.com. pl You might want to point the shotgun

hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, open Mon & Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.tgifridays.pl/ warszawa The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

asian Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120, open 9:00-21:00 One of the great secrets of

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce. Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

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listings / restaurants culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $

phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$

Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, open 11:00-23:00, www.basil-lime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a

Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.blissrestaurant.pl Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.canton.warszawa.pl Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:3023:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws. Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straight-backed chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices. Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open

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Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, open 11:00-23:00, www.natara.pl Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck. Highly recommended. $$ Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, open Mon 16:00-23:00; Tue-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:30 Not to be defeated by the closure of Sunanta, Bangkok chef Chanunkan Dunagkumma makes a quick return to this cookery lark with Naam Thai. While spices have been blanded down to fit the local palette, it’s been a promising start. Look for the roast duck soup – made according to a closely guarded secret family recipe. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi

listings / restaurants and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, open 12:00-22:00, www.pekinduck.pl Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, open 12:00-22:30. shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-2:00, www.silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the

kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Spring Roll (D4) ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 519 828 788, open MonFri 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-23:00 Baleful ballads and twangy cover versions of Bryan Bloody Adams set the mood in this eatery. The signature dish – spring rolls – doesn’t go beyond six out of ten, so what hope the rest of the menu? The teriyaki chicken should be renamed teriyaki chicken giblets, and comes with the addition of the worst ingredient ever devised: steamed cauliflower. Ergh. Suddenly, all those empty seats make sense. $ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, open 10:00-21:00, www.suparomthaifood. pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:00-23:00, www.thaithai.pl Sanad

Changpuen, a man widely credited with popularizing Thai food in Poland, returns to Warsaw with predictable results: the food is a hit. And what a space this acclaimed chef has been blessed with: gold vaulted ceilings lend a muted glow to a largely black-onblack space; from the walls, serene looking Buddha’s peer on diners down below. At once, the soothing interiors ease guests into a state of inner peace while Sanad does the rest. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$ Yummy (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 797 830 639, open 10:00-21:00, www.restauracjayummy.pl A naff name and empty interiors are enough to deter some people – don’t join their

Le Cedre 84

Le Cedre 61

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99 lecedre84@lecedre.pl

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

Taste the Exotic

www.lecedre.pl

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listings / restaurants ranks. Dishes here are uncomplicated but never cease to impress in that classic comfort food way. We swear by the orange chicken. Looking modern, minimal and a cut above the other budget Asian eateries, it’s a decent choice for an informal meal. $

balkan & russian Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalwart who’ve moved with the times and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366, open 12:00-22:00, www.babooshka.pl Looking intimate and woodsy Babooshka serves up dollops of simple Russian food to a budget conscious crowd. The bacon and tomato scented solyanka soup is a thick broth best suited for Warsaw’s long, windy nights. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to

decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $

british British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri

12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:0021:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with names such as Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their frequent burger eating competitions. $ Bistro & Burger Bar (H4) ul. Francuska 45, tel. 666 396 967, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 What should you expect from a place that can’t even be bothered thinking about a name? Not much, is the answer. Warsaw has great burger bars, but also a few chancers that have been foisted upon us on the back of the craze. At best, you’d call it average. When paired with disinterested service you have the makings of pretty glum time. Don’t let them get away with it. $ Bobby Burger (C4) ul. E. Plater 47, tel. 785 833 603, pen 12:00-22:00, bobbyburger.pl Perplexingly popular with hipsters who wouldn’t know a good burger if their skinny jeans depended on it. Now sporting a new location (the old one on Żurawia also continues, alas), this bottom feeder continues to prove popularity isn’t always a measure of quality. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00;

Free beer with all burgers if you mention the ‘Insider’

TASTE Burger, ul. Nowy Świat 22/28, “Pawilony” #6, 15.00-2.00 TASTE Burger, ul. Przyczółkowa 400, 12.00-22.00

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listings / restaurants Sun 12:00-23:00 People come here in droves, lured by a menu finessed by American / Polish chef Alan Bohinski. Not here meat and ketchup explosive devices that detonate all over your trousers, instead find neatly formed burgers made with prime Polish beef that’s ground onsite. And while you won’t need them, it’s a nice touch that they come served with disposable gloves. Delicious homemade sauces, ribs and wings add to the draw. $ Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet. Ćwierćfunciak (C1) ul. Andersa 30, tel. 799 328 822, open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Hidden in the gastronomic wasteland of Muranów, the impossibly named Ćwierćfunciak impresses with slathers of gloriously fresh ingredients, not to mention complimentary sides of hand-cut chips. Ranked in the Insider’s Top 5 best burger joints, that the resident beers are sourced from Pinta earns this friendly local a few extra points. $

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Thu 8:30-23:00; Fri 8:30-1:00; Sat 10:00-1:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.kitchenrestaurant.pl Formerly Burger Kitchen, the recent name change indicates a conscious shift towards other cuisines. Not that they’ve forgotten what it was that made them famous in the first place. Poland’s No. 1 burgers are still here, and widely acclaimed for their indestructible architecture, brioche buns, homemade ketchup and fine meat. $$ Między Bułkami (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159, open 11:00-23:00 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $

Taste Burger (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22/28, open 12:00-22:00, tasteburger.pl Set in the pavilion bars behind Nowy Świat, Taste Burger use seasoned beef and pride themselves on their ‘honest’ ingredients. Their growing popularity is evidence of a philosophy that works. Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition (at least till Burger Kitchen came along), this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $ Queen Burger (E5) ul. Hoża 1a, tel. 733 142 492, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00 A new face over last summer, and one joyously received by Warsaw’s burger aficionados. The look screams US roadside diner, but inside it’s all young city style mavens. The choice extends to house specialties such as gringo, teriyaki and femiburger, though our advice to meatheads is to simply stick to the classic cheeseburger: it’s a towering stack of ultra-satisfaction. We’ve experienced nightmarish waiting times, but like WarBurger, that’s just added proof they’re doing something very right. $

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 51 piekna@jazzone.pl www.jazzone.pl

Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:0020:00 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001, open daily 11:00-22:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample

NU NU NU ul. Żurawia 6/12 00-503 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 621 89 89 nu@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Bistro Berlin (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 43, tel. 601 166 566, open Mon-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-24:00 Authentic German wurst plus Belgian-style frites served inside a busy off-license. If eating amid people queuing for booze doesn’t flick your switch, then order from the streetside hatch. Diner 55 (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 Set in a dark, industrial basement, they’ve clearly got the younger 20s crowd in mind – from the speakers hip hop thugs brag about putting caps in your “mother f@ck!ng n!gga’ ass.” But the menu, an alliance between Pan Burger, Rico’s Tacos and Mr. Pancake is fabulous, with the tacos our major highlight. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00 Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.groole.pl You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap

with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Hummus Bar (B4) ul. Żelazna 64, tel. 723 058 223, open 11:00-19:00, www.hummsubar.pl Much like the lime green interior, the concept is simple and straightforward: hummus, falafel and fresh pitta breads served to a busy lunchtime crowd. There’s nothing more to say other than it’s utterly delicious. $ Justyna’s Secret Recipes (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 138, open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00 We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain. Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread. The delivery service is recommended for desk-bound officebots. $

Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef will make your knees tremble. But with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $

Kurczaki Oleandrów 8, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 If you like your birds spitroasted then look no further than Kurczaki, a budget eatery whose specialty is chicken. Wait it out in sweltering temperatures before being rewarded by ace chicken cooked in varying sizes and styles: depending on the day, that could mean in beer or in Thai or Jamaican sauces.

Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff). They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $

Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753,

Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:0020:00 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $

Exotic Moroccan Tajines & Couscous Mandi Oven + Charcoal Grill Enjoy the unique taste from Morocco and the Arab World HeyooDubai Restaurant Al. Jana Pawla 45/54 Tel. 535 075 770 Open daily 11:00-23:00 www.facebook.com/heyoodubai; www.tagine.pl

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open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:0023:00, www.manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – at times, queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), and most agree they’re worth the ridiculous waiting times - waits in excess of 20 minutes (and considerably more) are the norm. $

Soul Food Bus ul. Marynarska 11, tel. 513 609 480, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 501 201 975, open Mon-Sun 12:30-20:30 You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00,

listings / restaurants www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $ Wheel Meal www.facebook.com/wheelmealpl A Mexican food truck whose location varies with the day – check their Facebook. They’re worth tracing as the burritos are certainly a candidate for Warsaw’s best: and the sauces tingle as well. $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them. The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

cooking schools Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work. Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www. jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself. Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

cuban

El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$

Bastylia (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 825 0157, open 8:00-23:00 Part champagne bar, part cool creperie, Bastylia has been around 2001, since when they’ve been championed across the city for crepes that would make you soon. White brickwork, mandarin sofas and champagne bits and piece lend a touch of class, while breakfast is served each day from 8. $

Nominated as Best New Restaurant 2012 by Gazeta Wyborcza and Warsaw Insider Named Best New Restaurant 2012 by Froblog

Seasonal Cuisine Live Music on Fridays ul. Noakowskiego 16 tel. 519 020 888 www.soulkitchen.pl

Bistro Pigalle (D5) ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska), tel. 881 000 182 They say it takes six months for a restaurant to find its feet: Pigalle needs that six months for our first visit was a disaster – smeared, smudged fittings and steak so undercooked you could hear it moo. But we’re already hearing of improvements and fixes being made so there’s hope yet for this newborn restaurant. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$

Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature in 2014, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.

german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini. php Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milefi dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard and communal table. So the surprise here is the food – Turkish. And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish! It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. The desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

indian Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl A position on the doorstep of Warsaw’s financial quarter keeps business brisk, but while Bombaj Masala thrives on its reputation as an upmarket Indian restaurant, the food lets it down. We’ve repeatedly been disappointed by the food, which is unanimously decried as both over-priced and over-rated. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:0023:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a finelooking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $

Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef, Ram, knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al. Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:0022:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Ganesh (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 416 4162, open 12:00-24:00, www.ganesh.pl Vast and usually empty, the new Ganesh lacks the intimacy of the previous outpost on Wilcza and already looks a little scuffed and tired. While other Indian giants such as Rain and Tandoor have reinvented and rebooted themselves Ganesh plug away with an old menu of standard (and occasionally sub-standard) dishes. With excellence assured in Tandoor round the corner, you wouldn’t bet on Ganesh filling their million vacant tables. $$ Himalaya Momo (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 36, tel. 22 297 2100, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-21:30, www.himalayamomo.com There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor oven, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 A swirl of rumors surrounded Madras this summer, buoyed in part by an ad announcing the sale of the place. Rest assured it remains. Rated as the

listings / restaurants Insider’s No. 1 source for curry, while it looks cheap, cramped and claustrophobic Madras continues to earn its spurs for marvelous food. There are softer options available, but for a proper near death experience order the vindaloo: even your hair will feel like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. $ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.mandalaklub. com or www.indiaexpress.pl Keen, supersize portions and an efficient home delivery service (indiaexpress.pl) have made this lot something of a bookmark. Not dissimilar from the curries you may have survived on as a student, Mandala are cheap and decent, though several rungs below the top curries in town – it’s an ok means to an end. $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. mrindia.pl Opened by the creators of Curry House, Mr India touts the same menu but an interior that’s a substantial upgrade to its older sibling. As with the original, the spicy dishes could floor an elephant. It’s become a lifeline for Brits shipwrecked in Ursynów. $$

one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant. And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$

Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104, open 11:00-22:00, www.parivar.pl The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, while the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $

Rasoi (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, tel. 729 392 172, open 11:00-22:00. Throttled by roads and underpasses, while you may be able to see it from Złote Tarasy, good luck getting there in under ten minutes. But the location aside, there’s something very promising here. Good, well-priced curries inside a charmingly tacky interior of colorful cushions and a collection of trinkets. $$

Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is

Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 622 9410, open 12:00-23:00, www.saffronspices.pl Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol. The murgh makhani is

listings / restaurants inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com. pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab. Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

international & fusion

12 Stolików ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 795 373 815, open 9:00-23:00 Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater. The menu is chalked on a board, and while the aglio e olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$ Akademia (E9) ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.restauracjaakademia.pl The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of the street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public. But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$

A Nóż (D9) ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388, open daily 9:00-23:00, www.anoz.pl ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asianinspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $ A nuż widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 Choose from a magical multi-layered terrace of white-painted timber, cutesy flowerpots and colorful cushions or an interior decked out with wooden tables, patches of brickwork and potted herbs. Then there’s the blackboard menu, adjusted to the whims of the chef and the vagaries of the weather. There’s nothing smarty pants about it, rather it’s cooking you understand and appreciate – we loved it all, from the ginger and carrot soup to the main of grilled pork. $$

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listings / restaurants Bierhalle al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), Nowy Świat 64, Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Beer and food: a match made in heaven. Accompany your frothing stein of lager with traditional beery bites like sausages, schnitzel and pork knuckle. The menu is German / Polish slanted, but with a few international accents. $$ Bernie Grill & Beer Rynek Nowego Miasto 13/15, tel. 666 999 555, open 10:00-24:00, bernie.pl You might think any place with the words ‘beer’ and ‘grill’ in their title deserves a crack, but everything about Bernie’s is ordinary and mainstream. We sent our food back after it was burned to a crisp, and we weren’t alone. Preying on passing tourists, it’s become one to avoid. Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when the great and the good of Warsaw go riverside to dine at this restaurant. Set in three acres of manicured parkland, there’s something immensely satisfying about watching the sunset with a glass of wine in hand. Kids are welcome – as the bouncy castle indicates – but the layout of this place means that peace is assured. And what of the food? Consistent, Mediterranean standards that have stood the test of time. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl A posh-looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces, zinc mirrors and a Michelin Bib Gourmand. The English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel is evidenced by the presence of fish & chips. Serving a classic menu that eschews over-modernization, Brasserie seasonal menu is one to be reckoned with. The six course (zł. 180) tasting menu is the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bydło i Poidło (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00;

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

Sun 13:00-21:00 Filled with rawhide and industrial undertones, this grown-up version of Bydło I Powidło (see Burgers) has its accent on more high end meats, and specifically steaks. The food, however, never hits the heights the steep prices would suggest. Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct: five course set lunch menus from zł. 50, served between 11:00 and 16:00. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when twinned with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Dwie Trzecie ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 They’ve taken on a reputedly cursed location, but chef Marcin Jabłoński looks like a man capable of breaking the hex. Think author’s cuisine with a Mediterranean twist and plenty of surprises along the way – edible flowers, nitrogen blasts, etc. The hangar steak scores big points, while the mid-market prices belie the high standard. Pleasingly, you get the idea Dwie Trzecie will work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet also intimate for winter. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$

Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20, open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest. Yes it’s a bar, but there is a talent in the kitchen that elevates it beyond just normal bar standard. That’s Shane, a New Zealander whose put a London past to good use by coming up with an evolving menu that’s seen such items as kangaroo steak, five spiced pork belly and modern interpretations of British classics: shepherd’s pie, for instance. $$ Jasna 24 (D4) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 24 41, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.jasna24.pl Slick, modern and loungey in look, Jasna 24 has a creative menu that include the use of deliciously unexpected combinations. Roll up on Wednesday’s if you prefer your dinner served with a slice of live music. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, www. facebook.com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine. All eyes are on new chef, Julian Zielonka, to see if he can take Kaskrut yet further: early indicators say yes. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Casual Dining” Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Wed 7:30-23:00; Thu-Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00, www. burgerkitchen.pl What was once Burger Kitchen has had a name change to reflect a new direction that encompasses Italian polpo and handmade ravioli, an aged meat selection, not to mention a few Middle Eastern and Asian influences inspired by chef Tomek Woźniak’s global travels. Outstanding quality, a casual ambience and an avowed commitment to natural ingredients make it a must. And, FYI, Warsaw’s best burgers will remain on the menu. La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

listings / restaurants 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013. Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully BEST WAWA 2013 charismatic staff. $$$ “Chef” L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon-Fri 12:3015:30, 18:30-22:00; Sat 13:00-15:30, 18:30-22:30, eterrible.pl The menu doesn’t faff about – it is strong, silent and absent of adjectives: dishes are surmised using one word, in some cases two, imparting an element of suspense to the ordering process. The five course tasting menu (zł. 170) is the work of chef Michał Bryś, and on our visit was an immense triumph the highlight of which was a course composed entirely of tomatoes. This place is going to be huge. $$$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little

glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $ NatuRest & Wine Chłodna 2/18, tel. 506 511 146, open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00 -22:00 The upcoming status of Chłodna street is spoiled somewhat by Natu – we were served guacamole that was nearly black from oxidation, ice cold corn-on-the-cob and a stale tortilla. The old adage – ‘never trust a restaurant with a four letter name, unless its Noma’ – is particularly true here. $$ Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00, www. nolita.pl A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, advance bookings are recommended if you wish to enjoy this top-class experience. Some of the taste and sensations are utterly unexpected, with the Insider left speechless after enjoying the tuna tartar (zł.49) and aged beef fillet (zł. 97). Privately, many have been left bewildered by the lack of Michelin star. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Fine Dining”

Norma (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 828 0130, open 12:00-23:00, www.restauracjanorma.pl Diners step in to find neutral, natural colors offset by Walton Ford paintings depicting wild, tethered animals, and warm lighting provided by way of bare bulbs wrapped around the rafters. But what of the menu? That’s been conceived by chef Kuba Korczak, a familiar name to slow food enthusiasts. His food is an inventive presentation of natural, local produce, and includes subtle influences from both Italy and Asia. The kaszanka is deep and rich but the biggest success is the cod with apple puree: rolling in strong, unique flavors, it’s completely astonishing. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$

Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:0023:00, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs

“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw”

ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl Reservations: rezerwacja@nolita.pl

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00 www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$

rity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$

24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. That they also fix Warsaw’s top cocktails makes it something of a one-stop solution to your evening.$$

Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celeb-

Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean.

Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30, 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Rozbrat 20 (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295, open Mon-Fri 7:30-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.rozbrat20.pl Everything a restaurant should be – modern, but not too excessive, as well as traditional at the same time. Elegance emanates from everything and class glints off the silver champagne bowl and tasteful crockery. The menu is a contemporary, international affair, much like the crowd who appreciate it. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-

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Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’. Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Restaurant Design” Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the daily changing menu. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences around: and yeah, it doesn’t really look like restaurant. Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cut-price

listings / restaurants interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. We’re huge fans. $$

Soul Kitchen (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16, tel. 519 020 888, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.soulkitchen.pl Soul Kitchen were one of the first in Warsaw to make a song and dance about embracing concepts of ‘fresh’ and ‘natural’, and as such the menu is tampered with regularly to ensure nothing but the best. Our main of saddle of deer was beautifully cooked, and a miracle of freshness that lingers long on the palette. Only the dessert surpasses it: the best strawberries we’ve tried be it in Poland or abroad. $$ Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.

sowaiprzyjaciele.pl Rocked by its involvement in a government bugging scandal, Robert Sowa has moved fast to reassure customers that all is well in his restaurant. And we can as well. Looking the part with its soft colors and warm lighting, positives are underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that merits attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than he does on his kitchen: we’re happy to report on all of our visits we’ve seen him emerge from the background, sharing backslaps and bear hugs with his regular clientele. $$$ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia. pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with oddshaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes

incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00, www.restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were they thinking ignoring the form book like that? No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43. pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in

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listings / restaurants front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta. Consider Tamka one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, open daily 11:30-22:30, www.taste.pl To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering. Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal. $$ U Chłopaków (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710, open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu

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is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has winning pierogi and wonderfully thick goulash. Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, open Mon-Fri 12:00 -22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale restaurant whose floor plan and garden have made them a favorite for corporate bashes and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:3023:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Pairing international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Everyone enjoys the food, and Jakub Adamczyk’s seasonally adjusted menu is indeed a thing of greatness: the beef tenderloin

is a must, while the rhubarb parfait is a dessert of distinction. The prices reflect the quality of the kitchen, but certainly not that of the wait staff – a year after opening, and Winosfera still haven’t ironed out issues such as front-of-house staff who greet guests with an ‘Uh’. $$$ Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl. Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year. Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$

You & Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, youandmebar.pl A modern looking eatery / cocktail bar whose kitchen is inspired by the flavors and tastes of North Africa and Asia. Set over two floors, their enduring popularity – eight

listings / restaurants years and counting – makes it something of a legend on Żurawia. $$

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 A dark and dimmed space – fashionably sparse – with white wall tiles and eclectic wallpaper climbing to the exposed pipes above. The menu is a simple laminated affair with eleven ‘pizza rosse’ and eight ‘pizza biance’, as well as a scattering of other Italian dishes. Cooked up by Lino and Fabio, the result is Warsaw’s most extraordinary pizzas: yep, the place is even endorsed by the city’s notoriously picky Italian community. $ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a

menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Carpaccio (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 692 4726, open daily 12:00-last guest The Italian influence looms heavy here: the Italian owner patrols the restaurant floor, while Carmelo, a Sicilian, ensures nothing but excellence exits the wood-fired pizza oven. The quality of the hams is undisputed, as a try of the Parma ham bruschetta immediately proves. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com. pl The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve

turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? How about a recommendation from Michelin… $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27, open daily 13:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00), www. winiarnia-kotlownia.pl You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86, tel. 22 654 3277, open daily

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listings / restaurants 11:00-23:00 On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 When Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro pops in with his family you know something is going right. Here the statement piece is a Stefano Ferrara Napoli oven, used to maximum effect to create pizzas which have come to be considered amongst Warsaw’s best. Import ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Caputo flour add to the authenticity, and there’s a medley of other ‘staples from Naples’. $ Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal

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looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.nonsolo.pl Basic but modern looking: can be described as ‘cut-price cosmopolitan’. The kitchen takes Stage Center, and a stage it is – amateur theatrics are sometimes part of the bill. A staggering choice of pizzas await (we counted 48, but might have got it wrong), and while they’re pretty decent it’s a while since Nonsolo was talked about as being Warsaw’s best pie. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset

by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price. It’s in here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$ Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for

listings / restaurants very good reason. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Trattoria da Antonio (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 625 5417, open 11:00-1:00, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl An Italian chain that’s happened on a winning formula: fresh ingredients, decent prices and an informal atmosphere. And doesn’t Warsaw love that. It will never win the prize for the city’s best Italian, but it is of a consistently high standard. In particular, the pizzas impress. $$ Trattoria Rucola ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 575 457 & ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, open daily 12:00-22:00 & ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 465 1836, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.trattoriarucola. pl Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side to cover Old Town and the center. The M.O is replicated in all venues, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel. 22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www.vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul. Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi. eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Robata by Akashia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767, www.akashia.pl, open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 Upstairs is raw and red and black, while downstairs is more calming, though no less interesting: it’s like stepping into a Manga comic, what with the Godzilla graffiti and industrial format. Even the staff look like they’ve been ordered to dress up like Tokyo cool kids. The star here though is the robata grill. We opted for a ‘spray and pray’ approach: ordering lots of little dishes in the hope something would come up trumps. In the event, everything did. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open MonFri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www.ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:0022:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants

Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, open 10:00-23:00, www.dominospizza.pl Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl There's over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and they can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as Rain by India Curry, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

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Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$

open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00, restauracjawasabi.pl A humdrum design shouldn’t be allowed to detract from what’s rated as the best value for money deal on sushi you’ll find in the city. The sets are a phenomenal deal, and the crowd a welcome step back from the preening posers of Sakana nearby. $$

Sushi Club (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sushiclub.pl A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave. The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We return for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$

jewish

Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Wabu (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, wabu.pl Sushi gets a five star makeover in Wabu, a place that proudly proclaims that they have no menu: instead, ‘every dish is a unique composition’ prepped by their chefs according to your whims. You might find your whims influenced by the works of author Haruki Murakami – his sections of his texts are occasionally read out at night, while the sushi masters chop up dishes mentioned in his books. $$$ Wasabi (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 314 6963,

Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded. Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

latin & mexican Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun

listings / restaurants 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant. Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $$ Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo. pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror)

is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45 C and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.dostacos.pl Found high up in the increasingly naff-looking Millennium Plaza, Dos Tacos is adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes. A growing number of Americans can be found making their way to Floor 5 of the Millennium, and that’s to sample an exciting range of salsas and a solid menu of Mexican staples. $ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 Owned by a local hip hop star, this Gringo clearly knows what he’s doing. From the

punchy salsa right down to the Jarridos soda, this tiny locale doles out Warsaw’s most authentic burritos knocked out by friendly staff dressed in baggy t-shirts and back-to-front caps. La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, open 12:00-3:00, www.lafiesta.pl What was once a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic volte face. The sombreros and crap have been replaced by a psychedelic, Day of the Dead-style featuring skeletal Mariachi men, not to mention no shortage of tequila bottles. But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. Is his menu up to scratch? Absolutely no idea. $ Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ole-restaurant.pl A dual level wine bar

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listings / restaurants and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, open Mon-Thu 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at 23:00); Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at midnight); Sun 12:0019:00 (kitchen closes at 18:00), www.tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing summer zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ The Mexican (D1) ul. Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, open Sun-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:001:00 Zl Everything Mexican food shouldn’t be. There’s zero zing, and no matter what you order anticipate mysterious gloop with lots of mashed cabbage. It’s all such a shame, because with its burbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks like it could be the real deal. Find their latest imposter hawking for custom on Zgoda 6 $$

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Howling hot salsas and freshly made tortillas give WTF a head start on other restaurants, but there are other strings to their poncho: the menu has been slimmed and continues to be tinkered with, while the introduction of zł. 19 lunches present one of the best deals in town. We’ve enjoyed the burritos here for years, and score them as the best in town. $$

middle eastern HeyooDubai (B2) Al. Jana Pawła 45/54, tel. 535 075 770, open 11:00-23:00, www.tagine.pl Any doubts you have about a restaurant trying to cover the cuisine of Morocco, Pakistan and the Gulf states is immediately dispelled by the thick, rich aromas that pour from the traditional Mandi oven. The couscous is stalwart, and the charcoal grilled chicken a dish of real standing. Affordable and casual, Heyoo is the real deal. $$ Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:0023:00, www.lecedre.pl

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings. Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef. • Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes. • The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

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listings / restaurants polish Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation

they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www. aterlieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Outstanding Achievement” Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841,

open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bazyliszek. waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $ Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00); Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bialages.pl For that elegant touch of Zhivago-era class, it’s got to be Biała Gęś. Interiors conjure images of a countryside manor; you imagine rolling up here after a day shooting foxes. Yet it’s not those blighters on the menu, but geese. That’s the house specialty, and you’d do well to find better. A whole bird for four is yours for zł. 490. $$$ Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open

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listings / restaurants daily 12:00-24:00, www.bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A nationwide chain enterprise designed

to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $

Czerwony Wieprz (Inn Under the Red Hog) (B3) tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:00-24:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: shame it’ll be gone by the time you get there. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. His deer steak is exceptional. On the downside, not all the staff are happy to serve. Says one reader: “the waitress got our order wrong and then refused to change it saying otherwise she’d have to pay for it...” $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leave, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

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Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl To quote an unknown source, traditional Polish food is a celebration of ‘heritage, culture, singing and vodka.’ But snooty Warsaw doesn’t do traditional, at least not in the same way tourist havens like Kraków do. So it’s a joy to find Folk Gospoda. Good humored and filled with gnarled furniture and mountain songs, it’s a place where warm memories are made. Mains are a manly affair (solid, meaty and generous in size) and arrive courtesy of waiters dressed as Zakopane tinkers. $$ Kafe Zielony Niedwiedz (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, open 8:00-23:00. The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching Zbyszek Kmieć’s restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu has hints of Atelier Amaro in its fiendish attention to natural Polish produce: the cream of beetroot soup is peerless, and the boar ragout gains similar approval. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation. At the same time, be warned the scene here might not appeal: it’s very stars in your eyes as Polish celebs – both major and minor – swan about while their acolytes simper. $$ Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison

listings / restaurants from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow. $$ Oycowizna ul. Słoneczna 241 (Lesznowola), tel. 22 713 8993, open 11:00-23:00, oycowizna.pl A bucolic country cottage set 20 clicks from Warsaw is home to this charmer of a hotel / restaurant. Filled with hanging pots, pans and horseshoes, there’s something authentically Polish about it all. Same goes for the menu, which is a deliciously filling rundown of the Old Polish kitchen. $$ Pierrogeria (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 22 743 7644, open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.pierrogeria.eu Pierogi: the pride of the Polish pantry… No other dish features so heavily on local menus. Even so, the search for perfect pierogi can lead only to one door: and you’ll find that particular portal on pl. Konstytucji. Through their use of unconventional fillings and natural ingredients, Pierrogeria elevate a standard, staple food into a class of its own. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $

Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.podgigantami.pl Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$

to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is paired by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.

U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $$

RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR

restaurant with a cocktail bar in the BUSTLING center of Warsaw, invites YOU to TASTE THE BEST OF Polish cuisine.

Stara Kamienica (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 690 6767, stara-kamienica.com.pl Looking elegantly polished, the atmospheric Stara Kamienica presents the cooking of Adam Kowalczyk in a classy, dimmed background . Start with velvety celery soup with a dash of white chocolate and truffle, before moving onto ragout of wild boar. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

seafood Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical

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Seaside Bistro (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 607 562 122, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:0021:00 Who doesn’t like being greeted at the door by a hearty buongiorno? That comes from Mario, a chef who insists on flying his ingredients daily from Italy. The seafood is the best we’ve had in Warsaw: huge shrimps, and mussels served in an invigorating white wine sauce that’s both salty and spicy. The interior is a simple fisherman’s cabin space, and it’s easy to overlook details such as scraggy tables and obnoxious expats with slicked back hair and big, chunky watches: with food like this, who cares? $$

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10)

ul. Olkuska 12, open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 7:30-16:00 Filling the void left by the departure of Hala Koszyki, Bazar Olkuska garners together an array of top suppliers for your grocery wants and needs: stalls include those of I Love Hummus, La Petit France, Crazy Butcher and Damas. Ethnically varied, the principle narrative strand connecting them all is the quality. Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. British Shop (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 British food and bever-

listings / restaurants ages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. Food & Joy (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-17:00, www.foodandjoy.eu An upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116, open Sat 10:00-15:00 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine.

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, www.littleindia. pl The definitive Indian store though it doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Kosher Shop (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream.

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.maho.com.pl An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available. La Fromagerie (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, open Mon-Wed 9:00-20:00; Thu-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www. lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, gourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more. La Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, open Mon-Sat 10:30-18:30, www.lapetitefrance.

pl Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

“Authentic Italian Cuisine prepared by real Italians”

ul. Freta 41/43, tel. 884 903 488 www.nonnarita.pl info@nonnarita.pl Open Tue-Sun: from 12:00 to last client

Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less! Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.namasteindia.pl Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl A superb internet shop

Nonna Rita recommends: Barbera “Poggio Marino”, Marchese Adorno www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school,

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, www. merliniego5.pl Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a wine bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. While they pride themselves on their 9+ rated kobe beef, it’s the USDA filet mignon that we rate as the top drawer. $$$ Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.muumuu.pl A life-size cow with a menu chained around its neck stands outside as if to say: “turn back now, vegetarians.” Looking sparky, fun and engaging the décor is composed of light woods and soft touches, not to mention blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is indeed meat, and involves T-bone, rib eye, chateaubriand not to mention a few burgers. The standard is high, but so too the prices. Our otherwise excellent sirloin was spoiled somewhat by limp, soggy chips that came at zł. 10 extra. $$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

whole foods Green Peas (D4) ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, open MonFri 11:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www. greenpeas.pl Offering vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health

conscious offer here. Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $ Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering fashion statements and eccentric hair. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:0020:00, www.lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $ Pestka (D4) ul. Bracka 6/8, tel. 691 706 900, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.organicbistropestka.pl A simple, soothing space of sparing decorations, light modern finishes and plenty of natural light that gushes through the windows. Eschewing the fat and lard that used to feature so prominently in local living, Pestka is all about organic: consider it a gateway to sensible living and a balanced diet. Even the fish is tested for high metal content. Recommended are the bio-baguettes, corn tortilla wraps and wholemeal pancakes. $ Veg Deli ul. Radna 14, tel. 516 188 136, open 12:00-22:00 Rarely has rabbit food been so enticing. Delicious soups, bagels, dals, salads and suchlike are made with only the freshest local ingredients. $ W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489, open 10:00-23:00 A vegan haven whose menu is heavily slanted towards local produce. The offer includes a number of vegan pastes, sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups (e.g. cream of pumpkin with coconut milk). The presence of equally hip Meat Love next door is something of a foil, with the two neighbors naturally complimenting each other. $

cafes & wine bars bakeries Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger. SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 606 836 836, www.sam.info.pl A central, communal table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata KusinaDoran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc.

FIVE OF THE BEST: Teahouses GANDER’S (ul. Francuska 12) A choice of over 140 teas inside a dimmed network of rooms that have you thinking of a classic Cotswolds tea room. Genteel and refined-looking, Gander’s also hosts gatherings of the English-speaking Book Club. HERBACARNIA (Łazienki Park) Like something straight from a picture book, this tearoom is crowned with greenery and offers warming respite from a chilly autumn walk amongst Łazienki’s prowling peacocks and darting squirrels. MÓWISZ MASZ (Mokotowska 48) So it doesn’t share the same encyclopedic collection of teas as others we’ve chosen to list, but the atmosphere is such that you’d be a fool to miss it. Upcycled fittings from industrial leftovers and a cool Mokotowska crowd make it both beautiful and brilliant in equal measure. SAME FUSY (Nowomiejska 10) There’s oddments aplenty in Same Fusy, an Old Town cellar filled with steps and wobbles and little, dark nooks. You almost expect to see Frodo warming himself by the fireplace while drinking one of their 150 teas off one of a tree trunk table. TO LUBIĘ (Freta 10) There’s a warmth here that you can almost feel glowing through the windows. Squeaking wooden floorboards, cute little lanterns and shelves loaded with books and jars add oodles of charm.

cafés Bastylia (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 825 0157, open 8:00-23:0. Before Zbawiciela became The Center of the World, Bastylia was an unassuming pancake house with a militant lesbian following. Now it’s done a U-turn and been reinvented as a champagne bar with whitewashed brickwork, mandarin sofas and an affluent audience. Breakfast is served from eight and there’s live music each Friday. But the big question is do they still serve top-notch pancakes? Sure as hell they do! Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / cafés & wine bars boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:0023:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in this industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal. Café 6/12 (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.612.pl Famous for dispensing complex fruit and vegetable super smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; the cavernous interiors are still very much the choice haunt for on-trend 30 something’s. Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of

being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit? They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined!

Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:00-20:00 The design is refreshing and modern: heavy on white, with several punches of color. As for the crepes, no-one in Warsaw does them better. The strawberry pancake, served with white chocolate and Nutella, is satisfaction in its purest form. And once you’re done with their 30 or so pancakes, move onto the waffles… Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl Floor-to-ceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of

pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. Latający Obiekt (D7) Oleandrów 3, tel. 732 870 780, open 15:0020:00 “I like Frisbee, I like beer – that’s why I created this place,” so says Piotr, the owner. Made in Canada Frisbees come in all colors and shapes (even mini-size for mutts), and are complimented by regional beers and homemade biscuits. A bizarre find in Poland – likely the first of its kind. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Ranked 16th in the WORLD, you can put your faith in the house barista. Using Arabica from Colombia, Kenya and Guatemala, rave reviews are both standard and appropriate. The backdrop muddles pristine wall tiles with comfy chaises and uber-cool lighting, with the ambience never too commercial, nor too hipster – rather, just right. Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open MonFri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

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Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while spring sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just

listings / cafés & wine bars that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

establishing themselves over summer, you’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. T

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.prawdziwewina.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls. BEST WAWA 2013 “Wine Bar” Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl Successfully

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates with casual city cool.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00, www.winkolekcja.pl You can’t pick your neighbors... In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options. www.warsawinsider.pl

nightlife bars & pubs Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Cuda na Kiju

TAKE A FLIGHT Baffled and bamboozled by all those weird beers down your local multitap? Don’t get drunk, get crafty! Order a flight for a sneaky sample of what’s hot and what’s even hotter… CHMIELARNIA (Twarda 42) Not nearly as trendy as the other multi-taps, subterranean Chmielarnia attracts an earnest audience of bearded beer geeks and know-it-alls. The 19 taps have possibly Warsaw’s most varied choice, with taster flights available for zł. 15 and zł. 20. CUDA NA KIJU (Nowy Świat 6/12) Warsaw’s original multi-tap still has an element of the special, and that’s thanks to 16 taps and a brilliant location set inside Poland’s former commie HQ. HOPSTERS (Jana Pawła II 45) The new kids on the hop have a threelevel footprint and a rotating choice of 20 beers sold in measures of 0.25, 0.33 and 0.5 liters. While the choice is mainly Polish the odd appearance from Mikkeller and Evil Twin wins applause. KUFLE I KAPSLE (Nowogrodzka 25) A flight of four tasters weighs in at zł. 16, though if the tap beers don’t do it then check out Warsaw’s best collection of bottled beers below the bar. PIW PAW (Foksal 16 & Żurawia 32/34) Fifty-something taps in the Żurawia outpost, and a staggering 95 in their latest venture on Foksal! Tiny taster glasses from zł. 1 each, though waiting times can get nasty. JEDNA TRZECIA (Wilcza 50/52) Nowhere near as many taps as their rivals (eight), so their mini-glasses don’t get the try-out they deserve – manager Marcin is possibly Warsaw’s top authority on beer and his choices are peerless. Their fridge is fantastic as well.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), open 11:00last guest Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, Bierhalle have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. But what really stokes the atmosphere is the beer: it’s delicious! Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd. What has remained constant is the energy. Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound. British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The most faithful replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the standard of their beer, you might want to follow their example.

listings / nightlife Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream garbage. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus an outdoor wooden terrace that’s largely superior to anything in the area. Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here! This sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that slants through the four glass walls, while the shaded courtyard is a summer must and frequently utilized for various one-off events. Find 15 taps dispensing regional and craft brews as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond. Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.czesc.waw.pl Some say it’s more of a café – we say, check the fridge. Despite its diminutive size Cześć have one of the most adventurous alcohol offers in the city, with a steady stream of British cider (Sheppy’s, Weston’s, Old Rosie), Polish lagers (Artezan, Pinta) and other international names (Grimbergen, Crabbies). If there was an award for best neighborhood hangout, they’d breeze it. Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open Mon-

Fri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success. Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 515 967 123, open MonWed 10:00-24:00; Thu-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00 Big things are happening in this small little room. Under the stewardship of Kevin Bradley this ex-pat hit has now added Guinness and live sports (it’s the rugger bugger favorite) to their offer to go alongside a fab menu by Kiwi chef Shane. An intimate space clad in brickwork and metal, Haka gets further applause for adding Arnie – Warsaw’s favorite cocktail king – to their staff lineup. Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul. Nowolipki), open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Fri 15:00-2:00; Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikkeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz. Jaś i Małgosia Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead! An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś i Małgosia are set to reopen this month two years after closing. While the previous incarnation was a shabby glimpse into communist Poland, the new one promises to be young and hip while also respecting the considerable heritage of this spot. More news next issue. Jedna Trzecia ul. Wilcza 52, tel 605 589 588, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-24:00 What began life a

couple of months ago as a Belgian bar has expanded their offer to reflect Poland’s growing fascination with international artisan beer. Yes they’ve got Belgian beers aplenty, but they’ve also got top sips from Brew Dog, not to mention niche American finds such as the cult Alaskan, Danish Mikeller as well as many domestic finds. The industrial design of breeze blocks and chipboard is softened by mustard lighting and a laidback audience. Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat WW

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listings / nightlife 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, it’s the kind of cocktail bar that Warsaw’s been waiting for. Find innovative cocktails fixed by fun, playful staff, not to mention unexpected surprises such as a bike with antlers and prizes (a yo-yo!) for anyone who can make an origami paper cock out of the menu (as in a rooster, not something naughty). Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though. Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage. BEST WAWA 2013 “Beer Bar”

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to spread the gospel of regional and new wave beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Celebrating their fourth anniversary this September just gone, Legends is slowly edging its way to legendary status amongst the ex-pats and Anglophiles. It’s all helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and other such events. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. tel. 510 905 592, open Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00 Hands up who loves good beer? Thought so. Małe Piwo have been a sensation since opening, preempting the craft beer trend and in the process attracting huge crowds of every sub-section of the hipster community. The choice of bottles is

immense, and enjoyed in an edgy, dive bar background that’s snugger than a mouse’s waistcoat. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest condensation of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-2:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a wellto-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling. Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, open daily 18:00-last guest, www.paparazzi.com. pl Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door.

Restauracja / Bar / Klub

ul. Nowy Świat 58, Warszawa | Al. Jana Pawła 9-11 (Aleja Topolowa), Gdynia www.bollywoodlounge.pl / Polub nas na Facebooku

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listings / nightlife Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins is already installed as our cocktail of choice for summer 2014. Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on

the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 24 hrs Grandiosely declaring themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap’ bar, Piw Paw’s armory includes 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem? Designed more for carry-out custom, Piw Paw nonetheless packs out with punters often spilling outside creating an almost street party vibe. Now also on ul. Foksal. Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 501 988 768, open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-1:00 Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele. The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement. Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the

colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative. Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Try their best seller: the Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink BEST WAWA 2013 that kicks like a mule. “Cocktails”

Dear Guests! We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine. Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in. Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness. Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

listings / nightlife Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all. The recent addition of boutique beverages such as Brew Dog and Thistly Cross has gone down a treat.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Billed as one of the top ‘rich and pretty’ clubs in the capital, Foksal features a competitive ‘look at me’ spirit and flash interiors that are all chandeliers and champagne. Cardboard animal shapes hanging from the bar inject much needed humor to this cream of the crop club. Don’t even think of trying to gain entry without first tipping a bottle of aftershave down your pants. Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

You & Me ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, youandmebar.pl The dreaded restobar concept doesn’t always work, but You & Me manage to get both the food AND the drink right. And in their case, that mean innovative cocktails enjoyed by an after-work crowd of posey city slickers. The terrace is where the action is at.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub. pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/ Mrs Right for Now.

clubs

gentleman’s clubs

De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com

Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

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live music Basen (E5) ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00, www.artbasen.pl Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list. Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts. Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754, open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger. Nu Nu Nu (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00. For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd. Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks. See our media patronage in the “In the City” section for more information on current shows.

shopping Dona

accessories Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances. Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

RETRO REVIVAL CEYLON BAZAAR (ul. Ząbkowska 27/31) A remarkable collection of refurbished antiques, PRL gadgets, posters, T-shirts, handmade bags, etc. It’s an astonishing assembly of raw kitsch and cool bits and pieces. In their words: “pop in and become the owner of completely useless but indispensable things!” DONA (ul. Marszałkowska 81) First and foremost this Czech shop specializes in crystal, porcelain and glass, but beyond that find also quirky little toys, not to mention Krecik – a cuddly mole from the 60s – in varying forms and sizes. SPODLADY (ul. Chmielna 26) Step in and breathe in the atmosphere of communist Poland. This shop’s a beauty, and brims with collectibles that have seen classic PRL keepsakes given a contemporary update. Books, films, bags, toys and general items for the home are sold inside this cult courtyard cellar store. RESET POINT (ul. Puławska 48) A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. Plenty of pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic design studios. VINTAGE STORE (ul. Dąbrowskiego 40, vintagestore.moonfruit.com) Renovated PRL era furniture that includes lamps, sofas, crockery, artwork, etc. It mixes junky with high cool, making it a top hit amongst Warsaw’s hipsters and fashionistas.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space. OPTYK MOKO61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 8002, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, moko61.com Reputed to be the best eyewear store in the city, brands include Mykita, Lindberg, Barton Perreira, Dita and much, much more. The cup of coffee supplied while you browse is on the house, and typical of their attitude to service.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / shopping 22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

antiques Kolo ul. Obozowa 99, www.gieldastaroci.waw.pl What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. Half-junkyard, half treasure trove, it’s an experience in itself. Kwadryga ul. Wilcza 29, www.kwadryga.com Entered through a courtyard, it’s a magnet for bibliophiles, and groans with antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past. Victoria Galeria ul. Żytnia 15 lok. 4, open daily 10:00-18:00, www.antykivictoria.pl Sourced from the auction houses of London, with deliveries arriving each month, the offer is overwhelmingly English, though not exclusively so – there are oriental pieces, French, and more. Refreshing in its bright, clean style, Victoria is a magnificent environment to shop for that statement piece every living room requires.

books American Bookstore Various locations, www.americanbookstore. pl Now a nationwide chain with seven outlets alone in Warsaw. The offer is overwhelmingly commercial with a strong emphasis placed on international bestsellers. There is, however, a very decent section dedicated to Polish history and tourism. Bookoff Ogrodowa 7, tel. 22 253 6286, www.bookoff. pl A cult bookstore filled with trendy fashion

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

and design bibles, photography albums, on-trend cookbooks and grown-up comics. You could potentially end up spending really rather heavily. Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl Look no further for books on modern Polish / Warsaw history. Of particular note are the picture heavy coffee table tomes that focus on Poland’s immediate pre-war, occupation and socialist years. Boffins are happy to spend hours browsing.

fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style. Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, tel. 22 611 3814, pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00, www.chiara-online.pl A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with ladies and mens apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, tel. 22 826 1956, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories. Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), tel. 22 310 73 13, open

Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Balmain, Christian Louboutin, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Simonetta Ravizza, Valentino, Victoria Beckham and Yves Salomon. Mostrami.pl www.mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Tory Burch, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories as well as kid’s brands such as Baby Dior, Dolce & Gabbana Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids and Tod’s Kids. Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in

listings / shopping check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200? She’s a Riot ul. Mokotowska 24, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-16:00, shop. shesariot.com A fashion-forward label for grownups – women who hover between a rock-inspired, whimsical twist on a retro Mad Men silhouette. Two Can Play ul. Wilcza 32, two-can-play.com For those who value individuality in fashion owner Michał has created a progressive concept store that looks to promote brands that you’d struggle to find here: nat & nin, Denham, Eleven Paris, White Tent and much more besides.

home Bo Concept ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home. Makutra ul. Oleandrów 5, tel. 22 825 4084, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, makutra.com To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, tel. 22 360 4389, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.moomo.pl Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm. Numero Uno ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www. numerouno.pl Beautiful home design store with brands include Ipe Cavalli, Zanette, Doimo and Calia Italia. The sofas are out of this

world. Prices start at mid-range and stretch to steep, so watch out for their sales which can reach up to 70% off. Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 8373, piesczysuka.com Husband and wife team Beata Konarska and Paweł Konarski push the boundaries of creativity in a home design store that’s heavy with statement pieces: life sized moldings of animals, illuminated Jesus statues, edgy art, etc. SH Studio ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. An amazing place with surprisingly modest prices. Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses. Velt ul. Próżna 12, www.velt.pl Beautiful familyrun glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards.

malls & department stores

and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday and Woodyglasses, killer heels from United Nude and Melissa & Vivienne Westwood, etc Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.kencenter.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open MonSat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www. galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 828 6789 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Blind Concept Store ul. Mokotowska 63/100, tel. 501 770 661 From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution. Find it all from eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. www.warsawinsider.pl

family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

While daylight hours dwindle our children’s energy levels do not! Save your furniture and your sanity by trying one of these sport facilities that offer a fun approach to fitness with an emphasis on discipline, manners, teamwork and healthy living. KSCHEOLIN TAEKWONDO (facebook.com/KlubTaekwondoCheolin) In the perfect world everyone would learn Taekwondo! Combining selfdefense, exercise, meditation and body balance would certainly be an asset to some of the rascals I’ve seen palkup chigi (elbow strike in Korean) their parents! Master Kang Cheolin, a black belt 7th dan, offers training for all ages in Polish/English and prides himself on understanding each student’s physical and mental abilities. Discipline and discretion are essential but seemingly don’t apply to the fun, hot pink interior! GYM GENERATION (gymgeneration.pl) With locations in Żoliborz and Mokotów these bright, colorful spaces are full of state of the art gymnastic equipment, specifically designed for children up to 12 years old. They offer a flexible timetable and even high energy, low-fat birthday parties. Watch, have a coffee and fear not as your child clambers on the high beam or swings from the bars… The qualified fitness teachers are there not just to encourage curiosity and independence but social skills, healthy eating and respect! CRUX BOULDER CLIMBING (crux.boulder.pl) Got kids that think they’re Spiderman? Get yourself downtown to this super cool space dedicated to boulder climbing. The café and birthday hangout area seriously rock, but it’s the smell of hard working bodies clinging, some for dear life, to colorful chalked up handgrips that will get the adrenaline going. Go for an hour or hang for the day: prices are low. Climbing the original wrought iron stairwell sold it for me! (GBB)

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HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools. Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu. Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook and eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat. Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www. thelittlegym.pl Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

DISCIPLINE IS GOOD!

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children.

listings / family Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web. Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. 22 619 4041, open Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00, www.zoo.waw.pl The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’.

education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15. The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel. 781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15. Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17. Buzzy Bee Bilingual Preschool & Kindergarten ul. Śląska 45, tel. 502 036 962 / 22 863 30 96, www.przedszkole-wlochy.pl An English immersion program designed for Polish and international children aged one to five. The curriculum is conducted in Polish and English and prepares children for entry into their Vancouver primary schools. The school

is situated in a quiet, green neighborhood of Stare Włochy and includes a 2,000 sq/m garden. The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away from Ogródek Jordanowski. All children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in

www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / family Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecolemontessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, www.hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy.eu

An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, www.3languages.pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

listings / family and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. The Canadian School of Warsaw Primary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www. canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

cafes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room. Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00,

Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 839 75 60 or 501 183 953, open Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www.kalimba.pl Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops.

Inspire Challenge Excel

OPEN

COME & SEE US!

HOUSE October 29

Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction). Vancouver School ul. Globusowa 38, tel. 887 808 266, vancouverschools.pl The teaching system here combines the best practices and aspects of the Polish and Canadian education systems, with daily classes in English conducted in accordance with the proven method of ‘immersion’ using modern Canadian and British materials.

www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties.

American School of Warsaw is hosting an Open House for prospective families. We invite parents and children to come and experience our dynamic learning environment first hand. Please scan the QR code to see our school

R.S.V.P. admissions@aswarsaw.org

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna

www.aswarsaw.org

www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / family The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable! Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, www.kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile. Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561 or 502 683 246, open 10:00-20:00. www.kredkafe. pl The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space. Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www.nabocafe.pl Nabo is run by a Danish couple and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s

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corner that is causing the biggest commotion. Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 500 200 200, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00, www. nowakuznia.pl Hugely child friendly, Nowa Kuźnia comes into its element each summer when the garden is turned into a giant faux beach – complete with diggers, slides and a see-saw. Peek-a-boo ul. Karola Chodkiewicza 7, tel. 22 370 21 71, open Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 The pale palette and plush velvet upholstered furniture might not be the first choice of fabrics around sticky, chocolaty paws but every mummy needs a bit of luxury from time-to-time. The café divides its limited square meters evenly between parent and child expectations, creating space to relax, eat and play in: however, the gigantic doll’s house does suggest Barbie got the best deal.

shops Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. www.bimbus.com. pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou.

Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

Muppet Shop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a full-service targeted at expecting parents as well as complete interior projects. Anticipate a wealth of design products (kitchen accessories, toys, bags, books, buggies, etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Petit Friture, Jielde and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your baby / infant needs. Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel. 22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

health & beauty gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars. Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

LIFE ON THE EDGE: Climbing Walls & Line Parks CRUX (Hoża 51, crux.boulder.pl) Located in a former cheese factory, Crux is the biggest climbing facility in central Warsaw and has walls that challenge all levels of expertise. Standout features include Poland’s first hydraulic wall system and classes for beginners. PARK LINOWY BIELANY (Wybrzeże Gdyńskie, park-linowy-bielany.pl) Five routes of differing difficulty. For kids, there’s a 115 meter trail set 1.5 meters off the ground. For daredevils, try the 290 meter route. Night passes also available if pre-booked.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

PARK LINOWY WARSZAWA (Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, parklinowywarszawa.pl) Three routes to choose from: the most difficult is 400 meters in length and comes peppered with 28 obstacles. The added bonus here is great views across the river towards Old Town. WGÓRĘ (Merliniego 2, wgore.eu) Two indoor walls covering a total of 150 meters, a fully qualified staff and not to mention an easy to get to location in Mokotów. Opened in 2010, it’s one of the more up-to-date facilities in the city. W PIONIE (Nowowiejska 37V, wpionie.pl) One of the most reputable climbing centers in the country. Founded in 1994 by two mountaineers, it’s aimed at all ages and levels, they also organize frequent outdoor courses, trips to the mountains and work-related programs for those who work at altitude.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there. McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation of machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / health & beauty and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle. Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek. RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics DeClinic ul. Bernardyńska 16A, tel. 22 112 0400, declinic.pl Regarded as one of the most modern clinics in Europe, amongst other innovations DeClinic have swapped the traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those afraid of the dentist. Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul. Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment. English-speaking service also available.

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medical clinics

session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products.

Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district. Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

spas & salons Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.” Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24. BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00. This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers. Spearside ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 789 109 119, spearside.pl Warsaw’s premier male spa / salon offers massage, manicure, scrubs, physiotherapy and a range of treatments aimed at improving your ‘quality of life’. Hair and grooming solutions are provided by Maciej, a barber of exceptional talent. Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments, manicure and pedicure, as well as a VIP room for couples. You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

sport BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins

listings / health & beauty priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly. First Warsaw Golf & Country Club ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), tel. 22 782 4555, firstwarsawgolf.com Found 25 kiometers from Warsaw, this golf club features a par 71, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, club house and a stunning backdrop to which to enjoy it all. Frogs & Co. warsawfrogs.com While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side. Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook for further details. Sinnet Club ul. Gołkowska 2, tel. 22 550 3400, www. sinnet.pl An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities. Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), tel. 22 499

6466, squashcity.pl Considered one of the top squash clubs in the country, Squash City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc.

make this a swim to remember.

Warsaw International Triathlon Club warsawtriclub.com Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running.

Wodny Park ul. Merliniego 4, tel. 22 854 0130, wodnypark.com.pl When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts.

swimming

yoga & pilates

Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), tel. 22 773 9191, wesolandia.pl Features a recreational pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities.

Astanga Yoga Studio ul. Gałczyńskiego 4, tel. 22 465 8810, astanga.pl Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa.

Private Coaching Tel. 512 517 013, anthonypst.wix.com/ anthonypst Ozzie Anthony offers one-onone swimming classes conducted at your venue of choice. Fully qualified, he offers tailor-made lessons for all ages and all levels of proficiency: from total beginners to competitive swimmers.

Bikram Yoga Al. Jana Pawła II 61 lok. 305, tel. 888 204 020, www.bikram.pl A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room. Practitioners of all levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, riverview.com.pl Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw

Diamond Pilates ul. Powsińska 106, tel. 22 331 4495, diamondpilates.pl The first professional Pilates studio in Poland continues to be the pacesetter. Offers group and individual training, the latest equipment, dietary consultations and workshops for instructors.

Odent was established to ensure the highest level of service on the dental map of Warsaw. We offer flexible hours, cutting edge technology and two branches in convenient locations in Żoliborz and Ursynów. Scope of services: • Orthodontics • Teeth Whitening • Cutting-edge prosthetics

• Dental surgery and maxillofacial implants • Conservative treatment, cosmetic dentistry

• Treatment of children • Root canal treatment of teeth using traditional microscopic • X-ray lab

Żoliborz: ul. Duchnicka 3 bud.4, entrance A • Ursynów: Nowoursynowska 145 E (entrance from ul. Rosoła), www.odent.pl, tel. 22 405 44 30

www.warsawinsider.pl

in the city wawelska

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biblioteka narodowa

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Don’t miss Lokat, a Golden Retriever monument that’s meant to remind that animals need lots of love. After, what about a beer? Hell, have a sausage with that as well. Cheery Lolek bar is the answer.

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POLE POSITION

Green has been swapped for a sweet golden glow. Viewed through an autumn filter, Warsaw’s parks are as beautiful as they come. There are many finer than Pole Mokotowskie, but few can match its secrets and sidelines… Join the ‘Ryszard Kapuściński trail’. Named in honor of Poland’s only officially sanctioned foreign correspondent during communism, the trail follows the route this best-selling author used to take on his walks. On the way, find quotes from his books.

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

Unveiled in 2009, the wooden CosmoGolem statue has a small little hatch through which kids can post their wishes. But avoid at night: Golem’s moonlit silhouette is pure Stephen King. But Pole Mokotowskie does get weirder, something proved by its ‘hotel for bugs’!

Exploration of the park reaps rewards including random statues such as these two trumpeters. Finish off in Recto Verso, a hyper trendy canteen designed by Jan Strumiłło. Find it in the library.

listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com Hotel Regency Warsaw ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw-hotel.pl InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays. Vision Apartments Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 81 ( 22nd floor), tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu Founded in Switzerland, Vision Apartments specialize in the rental of high-quality furnished apartments. In Warsaw, the company is present with designer apartments inside Platinum Towers on ul. Grzybowska.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702

1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.

polish for foreigners Edu & More ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, tel. 22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. Preparatory courses for the state exam as well as for the international ECL certificate in Polish. Morning, afternoon & evening classes. Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 22 403 7872 or 517 459 418, www.frog.org.pl Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / in the city ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. Klub Dialogu Gałczyńskiego 4, lok 903, tel. 664 788 004, www.klubdialogu.pl Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

community InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town. Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

5067, www.muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl What looks like a cemetery of rust and a tangle of exhaust pipes unravels into Warsaw’s most underrated museum. Find vehicles of every description: Lech Wałesa’s Volvo (with 7cm bullet-proof windows), Gomułka’s ZIS limo, German wartime armor and a pretty-inpink Buick Skylark – the type favored by Elvis and Marilyn. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special.

Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00. Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

museums & galleries

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Edward Dwurnik, Jenny Holzer, Annie Leibovitz, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758

MEDIA PATRONAGE

PETER EVANS QUINTET/ MARISSA NADLER

October 9 & 15 Pardon, To Tu Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, www.pardontotu.pl There’s two concerts of note this month at Pardon, To Tu, the first being that of New York trumpeter Peter Evans. Widely saluted for his avant garde style, he’ll be joined by other members of his quintet. The following week brings Marissa Nadler, known for her ‘dream folk’ albums and American Gothic themes.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

12TH WARSAW ART FAIR

October 10-12 Kubicki Arcade in the Royal Castle Regarded as one of Poland’s most important artistic events, over 1,000 pieces will be assembled, including paintings, graphics, sculpture, photographs and antiques. Old and new art will be presented, with several international galleries also taking part: among them, Berlin’s Schmalfuss Gallery and Britain’s South Uist Asian Art Gallery.

THE GREAT WAR & PEACE

October 8 onwards Caricature Museum ul. Kozia 11, muzeumkarykatury.pl To mark the 100th anniversary of the outbreak of WWI the Caricature Museum will present over 200 satirical cartoons from the time. Among these will be British, American and Russian works. The second part of the exhibition is comprised of contemporary sketches of doves of peace by invited artists.

listings / in the city Ongoing till October 19: BMW Art Car Collection. A rare opportunity to view BMW models designed by the world’s most famous artists – among them Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and David Hockney. Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ Ongoing till October 19: Three Times in Poland. American photographer John Vachon visited Poland in 1946, 1956 and 1963, and this exhibition of his photographs provides an insight into a country struggling to come to terms with the fallout of war and its new social order. Ongoing till October 19: Wartime Warsaw 1915-1918. Poland’s first exhibition of German historical painter, Hans Kohlschein. The exhibition is complimented by the photography of Willy Romer, a German infantry soldier based in Warsaw in 1916. The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, www.mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story

of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation. If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film that details the depressing story behind the destruction of Warsaw. The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 70’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Museum of Communist Life ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel. 606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

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listings / in the city Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Officially opening on October 28th, this hugely impressive museum is already luring streams of onlookers eager to preview the temporary exhibits housed in the opening halls. Ongoing till October 3: Jew, Pole, Legionary. The exhibition depicts the lives of Jewish members of Piłsudski’s Polish Legions, as well as the history of Jewish civilians residing in occupied Polish territories. Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing: As You Can See – Polish Art Today. The most ‘up-to-date’ collection of Polish modern art to date is, “critical, liberating, psychedelic, often brutal and perverse, dense and ambiguous.” National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing: Freemasonry. Pro Publico Bono. This exhibition aims to show freemasonry as a lasting element of culture and history and will present its universal language of symbols, allegory and parable.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www. neonmuzeum.org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, www.muzkol.pl Presented in scale model form, in here find hundreds of trains detailing the development of the Polish rail network. Not interested? Then maybe the three model railway villages will stir childhood memories or how about learning about WARS – Polish rail’s buffet division? Outside, stroll around a remarkable collection of beasts outside. These include a 1942 German armored train – apparently the only one of its type surviving in Europe – not to mention the personal carriage of Bolesław Bierut (Poland’s post-war leader), the rusting carcass of a 60s train and interwar steam engines straight out of Thomas the Tank Engine. The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art. pl Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Ongoing till October 19: Corpus. An exhibition comprised of works relating to the body and corporality, inspired by the books Corpus and Corpus II. Writings on Sexuality by Jean-Luc Nancy. Ongoing till November 11: IT. The first such extensive presentation of the work of Zbigniew Warpechowski – a precursor of performance art in Poland and one of the first in the world to work in this genre – presenting documentation of several of the actions realized by the artist over the last 50 years.

CITY SECRET: Segway Tours!

Forget about trailing around Warsaw while some snore drones through a history book, instead take a guided tour with a twist: one conducted on Segway! Silent, fast, and ridiculously fun, these contraptions are the perfect weapon for a traipse around town. With the capital’s attractions spread over the board, they make a whistle stop tour of Warsaw’s A-list attractions so easy to do, and also something of a thrill. Expect to pay zł. 347 for a three hour jaunt. For details see: segwaycitytours.pl

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

CLASSIFIEDS

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way. Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

Kabaret warszawski Directed by Krzysztof Warlikowski 9th to 12th of October 2014 Subtitled in English

African Tales by Shakespeare Directed by Krzysztof Warlikowski 17th to 19th of October 2014 Subtitled in English

Nowa Warszawa

All shows at ATM Studio Wał Miedzeszyński 384, Warsaw

Nowy Teatr, Madalińskiego 10/16, Warsaw, 22 379 33 33 facebook.com/NowyTeatr | bow@nowyteatr.org | ebilet.pl | bilety24.pl

www.nowyteatr.org Partners:

Co-financed by:

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

WARSAW

Stanisława Celińska sings the most beautiful songs about Warsaw 30th of October 2014

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A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

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Check Out The Insider Online Designed to reflect the nature of a dynamic and energizing capital, the Online Insider brings you unique digital features such as our weekly blog, the latest news and views from the streets, as well as all the regular features and reviews found in Poland’s premier English-language magazine. See for yourself at: www.warsawinsider.pl

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BAR SPY

Expat Chat Demonstrating talents for stealth and sneaky scheming, our Bar Spy checks back into base with another anthology of Warsaw woe and expat misadventure...

“

I was at some real estate bash the other day and got talking to these Latvian big shots – ‘show us your strip clubs’ they told me. So I did. We were all pretty plastered and ended up in a high profile place downtown. One of the lads was a dead ringer for Adam Sandler so for some reason I had the bright idea of getting us a freebie – I went up to the manager and said, pointing, ‘that’s Adam Sandler, I’m his manager. Whatever Adam wants, you give it to him’. Well next thing I know champagne bottles are popping and strippers are literally diving onto him. It was like a human pyramid. But don’t think it was free – at the end of the night I got a bill for thousands. Must have been ‘Adam’s’ Latvian accent that gave us away.”

“ “

I’m probably Poland’s biggest serial killer. Ever since my first Polish wedding, I’ve devised a great trick to avoid getting hammered – what I do is I bring my own bottle of vodka and fill it with water. You know what Polish men are like when they find themselves on a table with a foreigner, they immediately challenge them to a drinking competition. This way I always win, but my God, these lads really give it their best try. I must have accidentally killed dozens of them.” I had my 40th birthday a few years ago and my friends, idiots that they are, got me a stack of ‘novelty’ presents: handcuffs, a gimp mask, lubricant, an inflatable ‘woman’, and so on. Anyway, I’ve gone and stuck all these gifts in a box in the cupboard and totally forgotten about them… till the other day, that is. I get home from work and, while rifling around the closet, realize that the cleaning lady has been in earlier and discovered the motherlode. For there it is, staring at me, all these twinkling ‘devices’ laid out precisely on a shelf of their own. The next day I got a text from the cleaner saying she wouldn’t be round again as she’d found a new job. Good lord, she was like this shy, reticent country girl. She must have thought I was some dangerous, depraved pervert.”

“

Had a meeting the other day and it went straight to plan. Only halfway through I got my fingers entwined in some loose string inside my pocket and couldn’t get my hand free. No-one noticed till right at the end when we wrap up the meeting and go to shake hands. There’s the company CEO with his hand outstretched, and me with my hand jiggling around inside my trousers. ‘It’s really not what you think,’ I said.” PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Illustration by Maria Mileńko

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2014

Best pastries in town Homemade ice cream Exquisite Mediterr anean cuisine Innovative cocktails Premium selection of wines Catering and special offer to companies

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