Warsaw Insider December 2014 #220

Polin Jewish Museum

Soho Factory

page 26

Warsaw

Christmas Trendspotting page 24

page 22

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BALMAIN BALMAIN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CASADEI HERVE LEGER CHRISTIANISABEL LOUBOUTIN MARANT GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER HERVE GAMME LEGER ROUGE RALPH LAUREN ISABEL MARANT SALVATORE FERRAGAMO JIMMY CHOO SIMONETTA RAVIZZA KENZO TOD’S TORY BURCH RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTAVALENTINO RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera Moliera 2 2 tel.: 228277099, tel.: www.Moliera2.com 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

DECEMBER 2014 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

22 Trendspotting

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Vedika Luthra Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Ed Wight

As the festive period approaches the Insider handpicks the fashions and looks of the season to enable you to look your fairytale best.

Not been a bad year, has it? With the calendar flipped to

24 Soho Factory

While the resurgence of the Praga district might have stalled since the mid-00s, Soho Factory continues to grow from strength to strength. We check out the varied attractions of this diamond in the rough.

December it’s a sensible time to give the year an appraisal. Leaving the serious stuff to more cerebral titles, we’d like to claim the fun bits as ours. And the year has been nothing if it hasn’t been fun. A large portion of credit goes to the craft beer scene, which has evolved past being a fad into a way of (night)life. To all you little brewers, gracias! Food-wise, the fine dining sector continues to grow with the elite restaurants supplemented by a clutch of ace additions, while further down the ladder the dining scene has matured and diversified – all of a sudden, living in Warsaw doesn’t feel like being sealed in a 1990s time capsule. And it goes beyond food and drink: the launch of Polin, the completion of Cosmopolitan, the growing (albeit grudging) acceptance of the rainbow installation, the resurrection of Jaś i Małgosia, all serve as signs that Warsaw’s moving forward – and we’ve got a nice new metro in which to do so. So a Christmas wish? Another year like this please. Have a good ’un.

26 Polin

LISTINGS

Years of waiting are over. Polin, the Museum of the History of Polish Jews, made worldwide headlines when it was officially opened at the end of the October. Paula Rewald brings us the story behind it.

Restaurants 36 Cafes & Wine Bars 67 Nightlife 71 Shopping 77 Family 80 Health & Beauty 85 In the City 88

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

INFRONT

Opener 7 News 8 Revival 10 2014 Highlights 12 Photo of the year 14 Looking Back 16 Christmas in Warsaw 18

REVIEWS

Berlin 30 my’o’tai 32 Oyster Bar 32 Fiuu Fiuu 33 Salto 34

INBACK

Classifieds 93 Map 94 Jury Dinner 96

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2014 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover Season’s greetings! So, with Xmas on the way, our cover artist has given the Warsaw palm a little tinge of Christmas cheer… (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

FAY GIANVITO ROSSI JIMMY CHOO KENZO RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH VALENTINO YVES SALOMON BABY DIOR DOLCE & GABBANA KIDS KENZO KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

this month...

COMEDY

DESIGN

Every Sun, 20:00 @ Cafe Niespodzianka, ul. Marszałkowska 7 A theatrical English-language performance group with a focus on improvised comedy. They say: “we’re always looking for talented people to join us on stage.”

6 Dec, 10:00-21:00 @ Dom Towarowy Bracia Jabłkowscy, ul. Bracka 25 This Warsaw design fair returns for its sixth edition, showcasing furniture, ceramics, fabrics and lighting from a range of young Polish designers – you’ll find some great ideas for last minute Christmas gifts!

Improv Sunday’s

For info see: improv.pl

FESTIVAL

Jazz Jamboree Until 12 Dec @ various locations The 56th edition of the Jazz Jamboree will see December performances by Tommy Emmanuel, Maria Sadowska, Jerzy Koronowicz and many more in various venues that include the Polin Museum, Palladium and Kino Muranów. For info, see: jazz-jamboree.pl

CONCERT

Swans

Editor’s Pick Pussy Galore Warsaw’s biggest cat show is a must for cat lovers, with all sorts of breeds on display, as well as bits and pieces of feline paraphernalia. 6-7 Dec @ Ursynów Arena, ul. Pileckiego 122 For further info, see: ekkr.vot.pl

3 Dec, 21:00 @ Basen, ul. M. Konopnickiej 6 One of the original bands to emerge from America’s ‘no wave’ scene, Swans find themselves in Warsaw to promote their 13th studio album, To Be Kind. Widely acclaimed, their latest effort has been described as both ‘hypnotic’ and ‘near perfection’.

FOOD MARKET

Warszawski Smak Święta 7 Dec, 11:00-18:00 @ 1500m2, ul. Solec 18/20 Over 50 exhibitors will be congregating, amongst them local restaurants, small-scale producers and bloggers. Apart from loads of great food, expect a home design zone featuring home accessories. For further details, look for them on facebook.

BALLET

Swan Lake 7 Dec, 15:00 @ National Philharmonic, ul. Sienkiewicza 10 Founded in 1998, the Moscow City Ballet have achieved worldwide critical acclaim for their unique style and faultless choreography. They’ll be in Poland to perform their take on Swan Lake. Tickets from zł. 130 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

4 Dec, 19:00 @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Loosely defined as ‘gypsy punk’ you’re right to expect something off the wall from this mob. Comprised of Ukrainian / Russian immigrants (not to mention an Ethiopian, Ecuadorean and a Chinese Scotsman), the band were formed in Lower Manhattan, and have become a fixture on the alternative international festival circuit.

7 Dec, 21:00 @ Basen, ul. M. Konopnickiej 6 Comprising of vocalist Klaudia Szafrańska and instrumentalist Michał Wasilewski this Polish dance duo have become known for their edgy, experimental style and haunting vocalists since forming in 2012.

Gogol Bordello

CARS

Xxanaxx

Tickets from zł. 35 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Selah Sue

5-6 Dec @ ul. Karowa A cult car race around the bendy ul. Karowa. Going strong since 1972, it’ll be accompanied by numerous events and stands to keep the fans busy.

8 Dec, 20:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99 This acoustic guitar-playing singer was recognized by Rolling Stone magazine as one of the faces of 2012. October saw the Belgian songstress release her new single, Alone, which is bound to get a run-out over the course of this concert.

For ticket details, see: barborka.pl

Tickets from zł. 130 @ eventim.pl

Barbórka

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

Free admission. For info, check: wzorytargi.pl

Tickets from zł. 75 @ eventim.pl

Tickets from zł. 100 @ eventim.pl

Wzory 6/12

CONCERT

Lamb

10 Dec, 20:00 @ Basen, ul. M. Konopnickiej 6 Famed for tunes like Gorecki and Gabriel, this Manc duet were inspired by the ‘Bristol sound’ and the trip hop that was born from it. See this lot showcase a softer side of the genre, not to mention tracks from their latest album, Backspace Unwind. Tickets from zł. 100 @ ticketpro.pl

CONCERT

Joey Bada$$ 12 Dec, 20:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99 The Brooklyn-born Bada$$ arrives in Poland ahead of the January release of his debut studio album: B4.DA.$$. Shortlisted for the 2013 Rookie of the Year at the Hip Hop Awards, his “90s-era flow and youthful gusto have earned him

serious admiration from all generations of hip hop heads.” Tickets from zł. 69 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Jeff Mills 12 Dec, 22:00 @ 1500m2, ul. Solec 18/20 Hugely influential, this Detroit DJ has been active since the early 80s, and is viewed as an untouchable figure in the techno hall of fame. He’ll be playing as part of DJ Michał ‘bshosa’ Brzozowski’s birthday celebrations. Tickets from zł. 37 @ biletomat.pl

COMMUNITY

Slow Weekend 13-14 Dec, 10:00-20:00 @ Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25 A two-day fashion, design and food fair featuring bazaars, food trucks, DJs, concerts, screenings and a kids zone. Check the Soho Factory facebook page

for further details. Free admission

CONCERT

Vienna Mozart Orchestra 17 Dec, 19:00 @ National Philharmonic, ul. Sienkiewicza 10 Performing in period wigs and costume, the Vienna Mozart Orchestra have won international praise for their performances of Mozart’s work. Formed in 1986, their style has been hailed as “baroque in its purest”. Tickets from zł. 159 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Gregorian 22 Dec, 19:00 @ National Philharmonic, ul. Sienkiewicza 10 The ‘masters of chant’, expect to hear pop and rock songs given a Gregorian chant-inspired spin by these giants of the genre. Tickets from zł. 159 @ eventim.pl

MEDIA PATRONAGE

14TH WATCH DOCS. HUMAN RIGHTS IN FILM INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL December 5-14 Kino Muranów (Andersa 5), CSW (ul. Jazdów 1), Kino Antropos (Ethnographic Museum, Kredytowa 1)

Regarded as one of the biggest human rights film festivals in the world, this ten day festival presents more than sixty films from around the world with screenings accompanied by Q&As with filmmakers, debates, lectures and workshops. One of the highlights this year will be a retrospective of American filmmaker Joe Berlinger, including screenings of Whitey: United States of America v. James J. Bulger and Under African Skies. Twelve documentaries will be presented in the competition part, while four thematic sections will deal with new Polish film, propaganda, short films, and documentaries devoted to people and events. Naturally, expect films concerning events in Ukraine and Middle East to play a prominent role. All events are free of charge, for further details see: watchdocs.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town METRO STATS

6 billion Złoty

Estimated cost of the second line

2.7 billion Złoty

The estimated amount contributed by the EU

360 million Złoty

Spent on new metro trains

2010 The year...

… in which construction began

1,450 Passengers

Can fit on each new train

TRANSPORTATION

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

Better Late Than Never

Warsaw’s long awaited second metro line is finally set to open, with the official launch ceremony scheduled for December 14th. The completion of the first stage will see seven new stations added to Warsaw’s underground map, with stops at Rondo Daszyńskiego, Rondo ONZ, Świętokrzyska, Nowy Świat-Uniwersytet, Centrum Nauki Kopernik, Stadion Narodowy and Dw. Wileński. The east-west route will be supplemented by a further twenty stations over the next eight years, which will see the line eventually cover a span of 31 kilometers. Dogged by controversy, the project has been hampered by WWII explosives, floods, fires and general fiasco. The most serious incident saw the tunnel by Powiśle flooded after workers hit an underground waterway that had been overlooked in their site plans. Elsewhere along the line, Stadion Narodowy – which itself cost more than Modlin Airport – was originally slated to open for Euro 2012, while the other stations were due to be delivered in October of last year. Delays aside, the construction work has also had its fair share of lurid hearsay: according to one You Tube vid, engineers have discovered hundreds of corpses in the course of their tunneling, a claim vigorously denied by local authorities. Whatever the truth, all this stands to be forgotten once the people of Warsaw finally have their prized second line.

36 Meters

The longest escalator (Kopernik)

Meters below ground

The deepest station (Nowy Świat)

Meters below ground

The shallowest station (Wileńska)

6.5

Kilometers The length of the east-west central line www.warsawinsider.pl

inFront

news

NATIONAL

Remember November

Warsaw’s Independence Day celebrations were marred by violent clashes that left 51 riot police needing medical treatment. Officers fired tear gas and water canon in an attempt to disperse rioting right-wing extremists after a demonstration by the National Movement descended into chaos on November 11th. In spite of the clashes, politicians hailed the police operation a success, citing as a comparison the previous year’s dramatics when masked football thugs attacked a squat, besieged the Russian Embassy and set pl. Zbawiciela’s rainbow installation on fire. FOOD

Roll With It

Twenty Polish culinary students smashed the Guinness record for the world’s biggest sushi mosaic in November after crafting an effort that measured 40.78 sq/m. The budding chefs used 380 kilos of salmon and 340 pounds of rice in their bid. The successful record attempt was held at Warsaw Catering School in collaboration with the Norwegian embassy. POLITICS

Councilors in the town of Tuszyn faced nationwide mockery after blocking plans to name a local playground after Winnie the Pooh. Overly sensitive officials had been left outraged by the bear’s lack of trousers, before questioning his sexual orientation and accusing Pooh’s creator, A.A. Milne, of being ‘disturbed’. “A halfnaked bear,” railed councilor Ryszard Cichy, “is wholly inappropriate for children.”

LOCAL

Sofa Sightseeing

The National Museum in Warsaw is to join the ranks of some of the top landmarks in the world by soon appearing on Google Street View. Using Museum View, web users will be able to take a virtual stroll around much of the museum’s 3,550 sq/m floor plan without the menace of queues, crowds or wailing children. Currently, Google offers walks around 130 global landmarks, including the White House, the Eiffel Tower, Musee d’Orsay and Warsaw’s own Museum of the History of Polish Jews.

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP: SHUTTERSTOCK , ABDUL MOIZ, SHUTTERSTOCK, PRESS MATERIAL

A-pooh-calypse Now!

inFront

Revival • Our idea is pretty straight forward: kitchen plus culture. We want a place with identity and charm. It’s important people feel comfortable whether they’re young or old. • We changed the original name from Jaś i Małgosia to Jaś & Małgosia due to patent issues. It was important for us to retain as much of the name as possible: we do place value on sentimentality. • The original neon sign is in the Neon Muzeum in Soho Factory – it’s treated like the Mona Lisa! We worked closely with the museum to create a replica of the sign. • My mum’s got great memories of the original Jaś i Małgosia, so she’s really proud we’ve reactivated this place. Myself, well, my memories aren’t so positive – I remember visiting in winter 1998. It was so cold I sat bundled up in my jacket and scarf. • To create the menu we worked with Aleksander Baron of Solec 44, and as such it’s a mix of his ideas and our own. This is a place with a rich heritage and it was important to reflect that in our menu: we wanted something largely traditional and personal though with a modern twist.

This November saw the re-launch of Jaś & Małgosia, a cult bar with its roots in the PRL era. Reinvented as a hip neighborhood haunt, the Insider speaks to owners Arek and Maciek about their project… • We’re not worried that Muranów has an ‘older’ population. With our previous venture, Grawitacja, people came from all parts of town, so I don’t think geographical factors influence whether people visit a place. Anyway, we’ve had great support from the neighbors and local community – we had 2,000 Facebook likes before we even launched. Also, we wouldn’t really agree that Muranów is an older area – there’s a huge student population here.

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

• We had great support with Grawitacja but did have a problem with the local council. Once our lease came up renewing it wasn’t an option. A lot of venues in Warsaw have the same problem: if you’re operating at the bottom of a block of flats all it takes is one person to complain and all of a sudden you’re battling to stay open. Jaś & Małgosia Al. Jana Pawła II 57, klubjasimalgosia.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Return of an Icon

• Outside of work we prefer places that aren’t snobbish and without door selection. We like venues that are, let’s say, without pressure: places like Łysy Pingwin, W Oparach Absurdu and Chłodna 25 back in the old days.

inFront

Highlights

2014: The Year That Was

In the words of ol’ blue eyes himself, ‘it was a very good year’. The Insider looks back at the highs and lows of the year that’s gone… • Hummus bars had their day in the sun over summer, though for us the brightest food trend has been Warsaw’s growing appreciation of Mexican street food. Rising above all is Gringo Bar, simply the best Mexican nosh Warsaw’s ever seen. • 2014 was the year we bade farewell to Hala Koszyki, a charming neoGothic pile of bricks that

hosted Warsaw’s finest food bazaar. Goodbye old friend! • Finest discovery on the Insider’s travels goes to Gołąb’s Museum of Drunkenness & Cycling, a rusting shed filled with eccentric swag: impossible bikes and the owner’s massive collection of empty bottles. Mad!

with their jokey, ‘is that it!’ photos of mocking ladettes. And the ladies loo? Full of strapping, topless hunks giving the come on.

• Forget the multi-tap, the best thing to happen in terms of nightlife has been the birth of the quali-tap: small, neighborhood bars with a steady rotation of five or so non-commercial • Toilet of the Year? Secado’s beers. Places like Bibenda, quite literally take the piss, Cześć and Jedna Trzecie

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

have reminded us drinking is about quality not quantity. • Helmut Jahn’s Cosmopolitan is a tower you understand: clean and classical, but with enough twists to keep it thrilling – there’s floor-to-ceiling windows that open here! Only a row of safety bars save you from plunging to earth and landing with a splat. Definitely our building of the year.

BRING

THE FAMILY ON

WEEKENDS BABYSITTER

& KIDS ENTERTAIMENT 12.00 P.M.– 5.00 P.M.

Cuisine by

tel. (22) 58 48 771 73 Wilcza Street W W W.SALTORESTAUR ACJA .PL Cuisine by

inFront

Photos of the year

Facebook in Pictures

We’ve had a great year on Facebook, and that’s largely thanks to the active participation of our 35,000 followers. It’s impossible to declare our photo of the year, but we’ve particularly enjoyed the wickedly contrasting contributions of Aleksandra Logusz (top picture, search for Blogusz on Facebook) and Katarzyna Kubiak (bottom). Thanks all!

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

Restaurant Dom Polski invites you for a New Years Eve 2014/2015 dinner

390 zĹ&#x201A;. per person plus 10% service charge For reservations please call 22 616 2488 For more information about the dinner please see our website www.restauracjadompolski.pl

Looking Back

Once Upon a Christmas

Empty shelves and general privation don’t tell the full story of the 80s Polish Christmas…

“

No we didn’t decorate our trees with toilet paper, are you crazy!” Okay, that myth is well and truly busted. But what was Christmas in People’s Poland like? Many Poles remember Christmas in the PRL fondly, certainly with nostalgia, perhaps because of the hardships rather than in spite of them. “When we sat round the table on Christmas Eve, all the talk was about what we had managed to get and how long we had to queue, but somehow we always managed to buy everything we needed,” says Marta, 37, from Grochów. Although the communist authorities had an awkward relationship with the idea of Christmas, they saw the propaganda benefits of making sure the shops were not as badly stocked as usual for the holiday – toys from East Germany, deodorant from Hungary, and the Party was even prepared

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

to spend precious foreign currency on… citrus fruits, which were not available in Poland for the rest of the year. “There would be updates on TV about the location of the different boats that were carrying the fruit,” says Marcin, 41, from Śródmieście. One boat with mandarins would be on its way from Turkey, another from Egypt would be laden with Navel oranges, while a rusty old clipper from Cuba would splutter into port bearing gifts for its communist sister country. Its cargo of Cuban oranges were in fact green and the skin was at least 1cm thick, yet Christmas in the 1980s wouldn’t have been the same without them. “Despite the absurdity and discomfort of life in the PRL, people were closer to each other in those times and Christmas was more spiritual,” says Marta. That’s something to think about when you tuck into the carp.

PHOTOGRAPH PAP/RYSZARD OKOŃSKI

inFront

Christmas in the city

One Magic Christmas

hink of a Christmas market and the scene that’s conjured is pure fairytale: cute wooden stalls dusted with snow and medieval buildings ringing it all. Of course, in Warsaw’s case, the typical small-town German scene can never be replicated, largely thanks to the Germans themselves: the legacy of wartime carnage left Warsaw with few genuinely quaint areas that could serve as a suitable backdrop for Santa and his helpers. For the second year running – and to the absolute horror of the traditionalists – Old Town square, the one venue to truly evoke the Christmas spirit, has once again been earmarked to serve as an ice rink. This time, however, the city has at least met the conventionalists halfway. After taking considerable flak for relocating Warsaw’s market to the train station – a grim concrete site that’s the pure definition of the anti-Christmas – the city gods have deigned Warsaw’s main market will sprout up on Podwale: curving round from the gates of the Barbakan to the mouth of pl. Zamkowy. With the roofs of Old Town twinkling behind it, this year

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

promises to be nearly every bit as good as long-timers might remember. After all, it’s all about the scene, not the actual merchandise, which for the most part consists of leather slippers, wooden toys and flamboyant sheepskins. Though if it is purely about the atmosphere, then no-one’s told the others… Also popping up this year will be a market in Blue City mall. From December 15th, find approximately 30 stalls selling trinkets and wine. The same organizers will also be opening another market for the duration of December on pl. Wilsona in Żoliborz. Promising more conviviality than their other venture, this project assemble stallholders from afar afield as Croatia, the Baltics, Turkey and Hungary. With an industrial helping of snow (we hope) and a few blokes lurking about dressed as Santa, there’s much to anticipate. Promising plenty of grilled cheese, mulled wine, charred sausages and ghastly knitwear, it might even oust the Old Town as the peoples market of choice. And remember, should that fail to pass muster then there’s always the idea of a weekend in Kraków at Poland’s most celebrated seasonal market.

SHUTTERSTOCK

While they’re yet to replicate the magic of small town Mitteleuropa, Warsaw’s Christmas markets have become an essential ingredient of the expat Xmas…

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TRENDSPOTTING

Oriental Black Charlotte dress, zł. 790, by Szyjemy Sukienki, szyjemysukienki.pl, available at Ptasia 6 Cardigan by Polanka, polankafashion.pl, zł. 350, available at Ptasia 6

in shop

A new entrant on Warsaw’s independent fashion map Ptasia 6, just off pl. Bankowy, introduces over 25 Polish brands from headline-making, hotly trending designers. From ‘office wear with a twist’ to oversized comfy tunics, this concept store is the final word in city fashion. Find over 700 pieces of clothing on the rack, with colorful leggings, bags and shoes also part of the offer. Sewn locally, the collection is comprised of garments produced, by in large, in single pieces from quality materials purchased by the meter, as opposed to great big bales. New deliveries arrive practically each week, with prices ranging from zł. 100-700. Ptasia 6 Polish Fashion Concept Store ul. Ptasia 6, www.ptasia6.pl

Fashion Fairytale

Once upon a time, come the fall/ winter season, fashion houses like Valentino, House of Holland and JC de Castelbajac created clothes which every Disney princess would dream of. Now, Polish designers are proving they also tread this same surreal, creative world…

Historical Boots by See by Chloe available at Lolly Pop Boutique, zł. 1999 White Bagatelle dress by Madelle, madelle.pl, zł. 680, available at Ptasia 6 Prince dress by Madelle, madelle.pl, zł. 500, available at Ptasia 6

Unreal prints Koń Polarny sweatshirt by Deep Trip, deeptripstore.com, zł. 359, available at Ptasia 6

Light metal Clutch dress by Eva Grygo, evagrygo.com, zł. 390, available at Ptasia 6 Jacket by Cocoon, cocoonmoda.pl, zł. 650, available at Ptasia 6 Ankle boots by See by Chloe at Lolly Pop Boutique, zł. 1599

Comfy cozy Jersey with notches by Horror! Horror!, horrorhorror.pl, zł. 450, available at Ptasia 6

LANDMARK SOHO FACTORY

The Dream Factory

Marketed as an avant garde creative community, Soho Factory (ul. Mińska 25, sohofactory.pl) is a remarkable jumble of offices, retail units and cultural diversions. Situated in the former OSA scooter factory, we bring you the highlights of this extraordinary space.

Neon Museum

neonmuzeum.org

Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses over 60 neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nuts for neon. “Their signs became highly visible landmarks,” says curator Ilona Karwińska, “and were embraced by the public as an important part of the country’s social fabric.”

Szklarnia

restauracjaszklarnia.pl The greenhouse that stands outside is an indication of chef Natalia Huzarwicz’s commitment to locallysourced produce. Her seasonal menu is as high on presentation as it is on flavor, with wonderful-looking compositions that match the winter mood: pumpkin soup, steak with brandy sauce and suchlike.

Museum of Communist Life

adventurewarsaw.com

Soho Store

facebook.com/sohostore.poland Local designers take a lead role in Soho Store, an edgy boutique touting upcoming labels such as Uncommon, MIMA by Maciej Muszynski, Gosia Strojek and Eva Grygo. And there’s a decent kids corner for fashion conscious toddlers: the one-piece jumpsuits bearing slogans like ‘From Sopot to Miami’ are fab.

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

This museum packs a lot inside its tiny little footprint: there’s a recreation of a commie-era flat, complete with nasty aftershaves and terrifying dolls; a section devoted to state and underground literature; and a typical shop with a knackered soda machine and empty vodka bottles. It’s brilliant. Find it outside the main gates on ul. Głucha.

Kofi Brand kofibrand.pl

PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

A good-looking coffee point with a design that slots in naturally with the warehouse surroundings (concrete floors, burlap sacks and clunky wood fittings). Filled with complex coffee devices, some people cross town specifically to visit this place. Owner Konrad has traveled the planet hunting for the perfect coffee, and here you’ll find beans from Ethiopia, Kenya and El Salvador roasted onsite.

Klinika Betonu

klinikabetonu.pl

Custom-made concrete projects that fuse expert craftsmanship with cutting edge technologies. Their Soho showroom demonstrates the versatility of concrete, presenting everything from elegant 3D tiles (a specialty) to large scale objects. There’s also plenty of readymade designs that can be personally customized according to color and texture.

Dado Design dadodesign.pl

‘Beauty, modernity and functionality’. It’s on these foundations Dado’s philosophy is built. Touting brands such as Bruhl, Gaber, Slide and Infiniti, this design store carries pieces chosen for their style and originality. Find it all from sofas and tables to picture frames and salt shakers. Your flat will thank you.

Magazyn Praga

magazynpraga.pl

A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment. Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular. The Warsawthemed photo montages by artist Katarzyna Osipowicz are riveting, and a surefire conversation starter.

Warszawa Wschodnia by Mateusz Gessler gessler.sohofactory.pl

Open round the clock, the food – modern Polish with French influences – can be a little hit and miss. But everyone agrees that the atmosphere is something else. Steel, brick and concrete are the dominant entities, and this place buzzes with a slick crowd enjoying the theatrics / dramatics of the open kitchen.

MUSEUMS POLIN

Past, Present, Future…

Warsaw’s sensational Polin Museum has already made an international impact since opening in October. The Insider finds out more about its story… BY PAULA REWALD | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

tunning, transformative, enlightening, entertaining – Polin, the Museum of the History of Polish Jews, which formally opened its permanent exhibition late October, is a world of superlatives. But one thing is certain: this is not your typical historical museum. In fact, it’s probably unlike anything you’ve seen before. Polin is Warsaw’s newest cultural institution, 12,800 square meters large, planted on the footprint of the former World War II Judenrat headquarters, facing the Ghetto Heroes Monument in Muranów. A grim reminder of the past? Or is Polin like a rising phoenix, a symbolic rebirth which incorporates the past and looks upwards and onwards? The opening week certainly broke records in Poland. Polin had 15,000 visitors in the first three days it was open to the public, burgeoning to 40,000 over the first three weeks. Over 2,000 dignitaries, VIPs, donors and honorees, local and international, attended the official opening. Over 600 journalists worldwide reported 4,000 stories on this single event. Sharing the limelight with Polish President Bronisław Komorowski was Israel’s newly elected President Reuven Rivlin, making his first official trip abroad and thus earning special attention from the Israeli press corps. Why the excitement? Polin is a big idea, long in the making and with an almost fairytale quality about its creation.

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

In 1993, following the opening of the Washington D.C. Holocaust Memorial Museum, the Association of the Jewish Historical Institute, which held the largest collection of Judaica in Poland, decided it was time for a new approach. The Holocaust, horrific in all possible meanings of the word, nevertheless represented only five years of a 1,000 year relationship between the Polish and Jewish nations. The historiographical emphasis on the Holocaust, with over 100 museums and memorials around the world devoted to it, was blotting out the preceding nine centuries of a sometimes turbulent but more often mutually beneficial, respectful coexistence. The only remedy was a museum of life. The core (permanent) exhibit, located in the basement of the museum, consists of a seven gallery multi-media narrative presentation, a successful design model used in the Washington D.C. museum. The exhibition production team leader, Professor Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, calls it “a theater of history in seven acts.” It begins with a prologue of poetry, as visitors enter a forest scene the founding legend of Polin – which means ‘rest here’ in Hebrew – is explained. To make up for a scant historical record, the exhibit continues in a chronological thematic pattern with a digital narration built on the 80,000 distinct documented objects

the Association collected from around the planet ,as well as its personal collection. The galleries proceed through times of kings, mistresses and traders, when 80% of all Jews worldwide lived in Poland to pre-war times when Poland’s Jewish population was 3,500,000. Some 90% would be murdered by Nazi Germans, with most of the survivors moving abroad. The exhibit ends with many thoughtful and contentious questions, but it leaves the visitor to imagine the end to the real story of this post-communist rebirth of interest in Polish-Jewish relations. Polin is far more than a historical collection. While its primary mission is its core exhibit, its other aspects are just as fascinating and accessible. Exhibition space actually takes up far less than 50% of the building. Walking into the museum is reminiscent of entering a city hall or a community center. There is no entrance fee for the building (only for the exhibit halls) and everyone is welcome. Marvel at the undulating fracture that splits the square building, suggesting the parting of the Red Sea when the Jews fled Egypt. Grab a seat under architect Rainer Mahlamäki’s wall of windows facing west – so important, he said lyrically, to bring “a natural radiance to brighten the surroundings and bring out new tones from the dim background.” Browse the extensive museum shop, eat at the restaurant or lose yourself in an afternoon of research in the Resource Center looking through their multi-media collection of maps, books and genealogical catalogues with the assistance of a dedicated librarian. Four classrooms on the upper level can accommodate up to 300 students, young and old, for a myriad of subjects ranging from supplemental classes complementing the national curriculum for school children to Hebrew lessons for adults. Culture is not only transmitted visually, and so Polin offers a robust schedule of (mostly free) events in its acoustically superior auditorium with its shrouded walls of copper mesh and 480 steeply inclined seats. Films, plays, music from classical to modern fill the repertoire. Sinfonia Varsovia, celebrating 30 years and now under the artistic direction of Krzysztof Penderecki, frequently performs there. The creative dynamics of the museum is a litany of best practices. The Association put together a team of maximum diversity: Jews and gentiles, the self-proclaimed non-religious and believers, internationals and natives, very old (80’s and 90’s) and very young, and many pro bono professionals. Contrary to standard museum practice, the interior and core exhibit were planned first, and the structure built around it. This caused much grief during the architectural competition, when 250 projects from 30 countries were presented despite the unusual specifications and numerous restrictions, but may have been responsible for the choice of a lesser-known (and ‘out of the box’) talent. The creation of the first-ever Polish public-private cultural partnership with the city, country and the Association joined economic forces giving Polin the gravitas it needed to convince donors to contribute millions. The community surrounding the greenfield site was also wooed. With the museum destined to radically alter their living space, their active participation was an acknowledged pre-requisite. An ohel (Hebrew for tent) was erected adjacent to the construction site and the community invited for activities and meetings. A special community opening of the core exhibit, by invitation only, occurred ten days prior to the

VIP opening. The Museum on Wheels, a two-container, prefabricated module that travels around the country on a truck, is taking the message of the museum out to the villages. In the New Year, expect to see a cafe/club opening on the north face of the museum for evening entertainment and a secondary contact point, the Menorah, on Pl. Grzybowski with a culinary shop and bagels. There is no stopping this re-birth(day) party. Polin ul. Anielewicza 6, open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-20:00 (closed Tue), www.polin.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 36 CAFES & WINE BARS 67 NIGHTLIFE 71 SHOPPING 77 FAMILY 80 HEALTH & BEAUTY 85 IN THE CITY 88

IN THE CITY Festival of Lights

Dazzling all who visit, Wilanów’s psychedelic Labyrinth of Light is arguably Warsaw’s top seasonal attraction this winter…

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

p. 88

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REVIEWS The Berlin Call Warsaw nightlife does fancypants just fine: you know, venues that are all Latino wannabes practicing The Game. Sometimes, looking around, you want to scream: give me something real. Well, it doesn’t get more real than Berlin. Hidden in the dirty guts of Most Poniatowskiego, even the approach feels intrepid. With the winter murk swirling around you half wish you’d remembered a flick knife – just in case, of course. Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? We choose Berlin. Dimly lit with industrial cage lights, it’s decorated in salvaged DDR memorabilia – newspaper clips, odd bits of junk, and a giant print of Brezhnev snogging Erich Honecker. Sensing our bewilderment, the barman proudly points out an original drawing he’s rescued from an auction: my, if it isn’t a gentleman delivering a firm spanking to a startled damsel. Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces. Walls tremble as trams pass overhead, and a faint smell of mildew hangs in the air. From a horseshoeshaped bar, the owner dispenses his knowledge of their beers of the moment: brews from Pinta, Dr. Brew and other trending breweries. Above the conversation, and amid the odd grunt from the electric heater, the Stones and the Kinks warble from the speakers. This is just about everything I’ve ever wanted. It’s easy to lose track of time in a bar with such personality, and that’s exactly what happens as one beer becomes two and two becomes lots. We topple out in high spirits, the owner’s farewells ringing in the dark. As the door shudders closed on this secret little gem, I can’t help but think this is more than my favorite dive bar of the year. It’s my favorite bar. (AW) Berlin

Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja), open 18:001:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-3:00

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

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REVIEWS Down the Hatch You won’t stop at one...

here’s a little stretch of Krucza that starts at Hoża and ends a few doors down past Wilcza that I’ve nicknamed ‘date street’. If you decide to see what I mean for a first date be careful, for where you opt to wine and dine your date can reveal a lot about yourself and how much he/she really means to you. You can impress with a touch of class by going to Baltazar, show you are not afraid to spend a little (or a lot) at Tomo or forewarn that your relationship will be all about pajamas and beer by going for pizza (let’s just hope that’s in Trattoria Rucola and not Dominium). But whatever you decide, there’s one way to start the night off right: with oysters and prosecco at Oyster Bar. While the Oyster bar is not really a bar by traditional standards (there is no bar), there are a couple of tables to sit down and share an order with your partner. The time I was there with my wife, the Italian owner bounced around surrounded by young Polish waiters and oyster schuckers. Formerly the owner of the nearby Seaside Bistro, he spoke with passion about bringing over fish from Italy and France, not to mention plans for a unique tank that will be the first of its kind in PL. With the pleasantries out of the way, we got down to the business of eating. Our oysters were from Venice, and while not meaty in texture they were beautifully delicate and complete with that inimitable taste of the sea. Their freshness and the enthusiasm of the owner meant we were back within days, this time to pick up a kilo of clams to accompany our linguini at home. And it was on exiting I realized that the next door steakhouse Bydło I Poidło was their sister restaurant – another date idea crossed my mind: surf and turf. (KD) Oyster Bar

Krucza 16/22, tel. 697 205 893, open Mon-Sun 13:00-24:00

My Goodness Sister restaurant to my’o’my hits the spot

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

here’s been a flare-up of Thai restaurants lately, which is by no means a bad thing. I first heard of my’o’tai after it was reviewed and raved about by Gazeta’s food critic and kingmaker Maciej Nowak, so I wanted to taste for myself what he found so amazing. While the layout is bigger than their other place, my’o’my, it has the same intimate feeling as you creep up the stairs from the moment of entry. The work of Trisno Hamidis (formerly of Kraków’s acclaimed Golden Dog), the menu is a bit of a surprise in that there’s zero noodle dishes or other typically Thai dishes – either daring or stupid, at this stage I wasn’t sure. But everything sounded good, to the point that making decisions was kind of tough. On being served the caramelized spicy chicken wings both my wife and I pondered ordering them again – that great. For mains, I went for the pork tenderloin with lemongrass, Thai basil and chopped toasted rice while my partner chose the king shrimp soup with ginger, lemongrass and chili. We cherished every bite of our main dishes with eyes meeting in silent understanding that we’d found something brilliant. Every flavor of authentic Thai cooking was there and the freshness made the grey weather outside seem like it was only temporary. We even stayed on and ordered another dish to share. I voted for the wings but my more practical partner said we should try something new, which was totally right since the eggplant with mint was almost as delicious as everything we tried. (KD) my’o’tai

ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter on Górskiego), tel. 662 742 901, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Your Perfect Sparring Partner

Regarded as one of Polandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top day spas, Fiuu Fiuu presents itself in a cascade of pearl white colors that instantly sooth. Elegance and discretion are assured, and so too expert attention from the female staff. Services include facial and body treatments, eyelash extensions, massage, make-up application, nailcare and endermologie. Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa

Mokotowska 48, fiuufiuudayspa.pl

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REVIEWS

A Faultless Latin Translation

ack when I first settled in Poland I used to walk past the Rialto all the time – of course, it wasn’t the Rialto then, rather a boarded-up building that looked ready to die. “Why,” I used to ask, “doesn’t someone put a bit of money into that and turn into something nice.” Not that I wish to claim credit, but it appears a little genie was listening. In 2003, what had been a battle-bruised memento of World War II was given a set of new clothes and transformed into Warsaw’s first boutique hotel. Woah, gushed the travel press. So too did local foodies. In charge of the kitchen was Kurt Scheller, arguably the country’s first celebrity foreign chef. Miracles were performed and everyone was happy. But only for a while. Scheller’s departure to follow other projects created a void. New chefs came in with varying degrees of success, yet none were able to reach the heights that had previously been accomplished – not till this year, that is. The plan was bold: first, to create an identity separate to the hotel. Solution: open a new street-side entrance and rechristen the restaurant so as not to allude to its hotel location. Done. The second part, actually getting people through the door, was

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

the hard bit. Step forward Martin Gimenez-Castro. Present in Poland for a number of years, this Argentinean chef hit headlines in 2013 when he emerged as victor from the first series of the TV show Top Chef. With Salto opened a month or so after, there was already a buzz from the very first moment. Describing his style as ‘author’s cuisine’, his cooking seeks to present South American cooking in a contemporary way. As we begin our traipse through the tasting menu, this mission is clear from the amuse bouche: raw scallop carpaccio on a bed of ginger gel with cilantro fused seed oil. It is a clever opening salvo, but one outshone by the arrival of the starter: ceviche using Portuguese corvina. Served on a shadow box filled with sea salt, it’s light, fresh and given an extra little zing with a dash of habanero. “The best ceviche I’ve had outside of New York,” proclaims my partner. Next, a leg of lamb that’s delicate and pink and all things good. It’s served with Martin’s customized chimichurri, not to mention sea salt that the chef personally brought back from the shores of Patagonia. Following it, a tranche of cavala mackerel that’s both dainty and juicy. I don’t usually do mackerel, but

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Depressed? Add a dash of salt(o) to your Warsaw winter’s day…

for this I’ll make an exception. And the fresh baby artichoke, pumpkin puree and creamy fish stock sauce prove the perfect pairing for it: simple but sophisticated. When you’ve lived in Poland for so long, it’s these tastes that you crave. So far the presentation has been immaculate, but it ratchets up a notch when a palette cleanser of pear sorbet is served inside hand-blown sugar bulb. Cracking it like an egg, it’s a little difficult to eat: splotches of chocolate sand appear on the table, swiftly followed by shards of shattered sugar. Messy sure but no-one’s complaining. All this leads to the New York steak: a hefty chop of US beef cooked medium rare with an expert char. Underneath, foie gras emulsion, and to the side a sweet potato puree and deep fried kale. Seen as a whole, this course is a hymn to the chef’s mastery of meat. But there is more to the chef’s oeuvre, and that becomes clear with the delivery of dessert. It’s unbelievable. Porcini mushroom ice cream and bison grass mousse served, believe it or not, in the shape of a mushroom. Oh gooey goodness, can this please never end. Of course, the problem is that it does. That’s it, over, back to

“ When you’ve lived in Poland for so long, it’s these tastes that you crave”

real life. But the tasting menu has been an emphatic win: wellbalanced, creative, and strategically portioned. It has been a magnificent demonstration of passion and personality. And most importantly, it’s been bloody brilliant. (AW) Salto ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, www.saltorestauracja.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 Best of Warsaw Award Winner 2013 New listings are in RED

DOS TACOS (ul. Jasna 22, dostacos.pl) After spending years in the increasingly sleazy-looking Millennium Plaza, Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas.

african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin middle eastern polish scandinavian seafood specialty food shops steak houses

36 37 37 40 41 41 42 44 44 44 44 44 45 47 53 55 58 58 60 60 63 61 64 64

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

S’POCO LOCO (ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl) It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. S’poco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. After a mysterious absence of six months, it’s heartening to see S’poco Loco back open for business.

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2014

african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

listings / restaurants La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00, www. lamama.eu Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat. But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 Upstairs it’s a burger joint, one of Warsaw’s best. Downstairs, a modern American restaurant overseen by Jan Piecuch – former chef of Signature. Offering a different menu to the lunch-on-the-run options of upstairs, the monthly card is serious in its intent (there’s even a 5-course tasting menu), with well-marbled 21-day Hereford steak, dainty crab cakes and creative soups. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style

look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www. hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri & Sat 11:0023:00; Sun 11:00-22:00, www.sioux.com. pl You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$

Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, open Mon & Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.tgifridays.pl/ warszawa The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

asian Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120, open 9:00-21:00 One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, open

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce. Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

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listings / restaurants 11:00-23:00, www.basil-lime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210, open

daily 12:00-22:00, www.blissrestaurant.pl Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.canton.warszawa.pl Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www. cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws. Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straight-backed chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices. Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

InAzia (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705, open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00; Sun 12:30-16:30, www.restauracja-inazia.pl “Blindingly good,” declares one reader, and indeed the pho soups and noodle dishes are of a high standard. Vietnamese cuisine doesn’t have the best reputation in this country, but Hanoi redresses the balance. The exhaustive menu also involves Thai dishes, which while unusually heavy represent value for money. $$$ Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, open 11:00-23:00, www.natara.pl Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck. Highly recommended. $$ Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, open Mon 16:00-23:00; Tue-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:30 An anonymous design and an out-of-center location have done nothing to hurt Naam’s reputation as Warsaw’s best Thai. Bangkok-born Chanunkan Duangkumma is the reason for this success, and her duck soup – made according to a secret family recipe – is full of spices, depth and exciting twists. Book ahead to avoid disappointment. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$ Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s

Special Promotional Material

Sandra Massoud, the owner of La Maison

Traditional Christmas with a French Taste The smell of Christmas reminds us of home, delicious cakes and traditional dishes… which is exactly what you’ll find in La Maison this Christmas…

a Maison means house in French, and its name conjures a homely, festive atmosphere, one filled with the aroma of freshly baked cakes and beautiful dishes – and that’s what guests will find especially prepared over the course of Christmas. This unusual place was created by Sandra Massoud, an admirer of both French and Mediterranean cuisine. In her unique dishes you will find the true flavors of France, Poland and the Mediterranean region – something that makes La Maison exceptional and unique. Perfectly-chosen ingredients ensure these dishes are delicious and original. Known for her work on Good Morning TVN, the Polish audience are already aware of Sandra’s talents, now it’s your turn… On La Maison’s menu you will find fish, salmon, shrimps and mussels. Aside from them enjoy wonderful steak and duck, extraordinary Mediterranean salads with goat cheese, feta, fresh figs, and pear, and other aromatic additions that provide La Maison with its unique signature.

But, what do tigers love the most? Cakes, of course! La Maison doubles as an authentic French patisserie, and with us we have the Traditional French Confectionery world champion. This Christmas he’ll be baking cakes for us. Why not break from Polish traditions and instead order French Christmas delicacies from La Maison? Especially recommended is the Buche do Noel. These can be enjoyed not only in our restaurant, but also ordered for home for Christmas Eve and the seasonal holidays, along with our pies and other menu items. Enjoy the holidays with La Maison! In La Maison, we are also happy to organize company Christmas parties. We are already taking orders, booking and reservations for Christmas and New Year.

La Maison ul. Chłodna 15, tel . 22 652 36 60, rezerwacja@lamaison.pl, www.lamaison.pl Facebook: www.facebook.com/LaMaisonGourmand

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listings / restaurants floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, open 12:00-22:30. shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-2:00, www.silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Spring Roll (D4) ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 519 828 788, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-23:00 There’s been a flush of Asian eateries around Warsaw, though few disappoint as much

as Spring Roll. That their signature dish – you’ve guessed it, spring rolls – doesn’t score much beyond six out of ten, what hope the rest of the menu? The teriyaki chicken might as well be renamed teriyaki chicken giblets, and comes with the addition of the worst ingredient ever devised: steamed cauliflower. $ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, open 10:00-21:00, www.suparomthaifood. pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:00-23:00, www.thaithai.pl The loss of the original chef, Sanad Changpuen, has had a ripple-down effect on the final product. There’s a competence to the dishes, but a basic lack of fire and dazzle. It’s decent enough for Warsaw, but those who’ve had the real thing leave underwhelmed. What a shame that is, because in terms of design its

little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$

balkan & russian Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$

For the festive holiday season, “TASTE” invites you to experience modern traditional favourites that will make a lasting impression. For coming holiday season we oﬀer best selection of modern european as well as traditional polish cuisine and a wide selection of wine. Plan your corporate events, romantic dinners, and catering with us in Wilanów. Make it a meal to remember! Always in good “TASTE”! We are passionate about our food and we care for our customers, TASTE prepares meal only with the freshest ingredients. ul. Kazachska 1, Warsaw

www.taste.pl

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

/tastewilanow

listings / restaurants Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366, open 12:00-22:00, www.babooshka.pl Looking intimate and woodsy Babooshka serves up dollops of simple Russian food to a budget conscious crowd. The bacon and tomato scented solyanka soup is a thick broth best suited for Warsaw’s long, windy nights. $ Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, smakigruzji.pl So good that our Georgian connection claims it to be every bit as good as back home. The khachapuri wins big points, but so too the badrijani – eggplant slices rolled and filled with a mix of walnuts and Georgian spices. And then there’s the chinkali, every Georgian’s favorite dough purse of broth and meaty goodness. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $

british British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsomer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

burgers

Seduces with the taste

Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:0021:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with names such as Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their frequent eating competitions. Definitely worth a visit. $ Bobby Burger (C4) ul. E. Plater 47, tel. 785 833 603, open 12:00-22:00, bobbyburger.pl It’s become the dominant force on Warsaw’s burger map, which all things considered is quite perplexing. With so many franchise outlets to their name it’s hard to keep a check on consistency, though it appears the Emili Plater branch is the best of the bunch. Seeing it’s burgers they specialize in, it says a lot that their fries are the bright point. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 People come here in droves, lured by a menu finessed by American / Polish chef Alan Bohinski. Not here meat and ketchup explosive devices that detonate all over your trousers, instead find neatly formed burgers made with prime Polish beef that’s ground onsite. And while you won’t need them, it’s a nice touch that they come served with disposable gloves. Delicious homemade sauces, ribs and wings add to the draw. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, open Tue-Thu 12:0021:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00, burgerbar.waw. pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $

 Modern take on Italian cuisine  All of the dishes are prepared on site from high-quality original products  Mediterranean starters, seafood, pasta, pizza and Italian desserts

 The best location in Warsaw  Free car park for restaurant guests

www.focaccia.pl tel.: 22 829 69 69 Senatorska 13/15 Warsaw/Downtown Working hours: Mon – Fri: 8.00–23.00 Sat – Sun: 11.00–23.00

Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44, open www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet. Ćwierćfunciak (C1) ul. Andersa 30, tel. 799 328 822, open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Hidden in the gastronomic wasteland of Muranów, the impossibly named Ćwierćfunciak impresses with slathers of gloriously fresh ingredients, not to mention complimentary sides of hand-cut chips. Ranked in the Insider’s Top 5 best burger joints, that the resident beers are sourced from Pinta earns this friendly local a few extra points. $ Między Bułkami (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159, open 11:00-23:00 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $ Taste Burger (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22/28, open 12:00-22:00, tasteburger.pl Set in the pavilion bars behind Nowy Świat, Taste Burger use seasoned beef and pride themselves on their ‘honest’ ingredients. Their growing popularity is evidence of a philosophy that works.

Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition (at least till Burger Kitchen came along), this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $ Queen Burger (E5) ul. Hoża 1a, tel. 733 142 492, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00 A new face over last summer, and one joyously received by Warsaw’s burger aficionados. The look screams US roadside diner, but inside it’s all young city style mavens. The choice extends to house specialties such as gringo, teriyaki and femiburger, though our advice to meatheads is to simply stick to the classic cheeseburger: it’s a towering stack of ultra-satisfaction. We’ve experienced nightmarish waiting times, but like WarBurger, that’s just added proof they’re doing something very right. $

Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real

candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001, open daily 11:00-22:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Bistro Berlin (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 43, tel. 601 166 566, open Mon-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-24:00 Authentic German wurst plus Belgian-style frites served inside a busy off-license. If eating amid people queuing for booze doesn’t flick your switch, then order from the streetside hatch. Diner 55 (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 Young? Broke? Try Diner 55. Set in a dark, industrial basement, this spot fills with skater types showing off their first tattoo. The menu is born of an alliance between Pan Burger, Rico’s Tacos and Mr. Pancake, and is good enough for a quick fix solution. $ Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. ul. Waryńskiego 9, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; FriSat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.fabrykafrytek.pl Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $

Exotic Moroccan Tajines & Couscous Mandi Oven + Charcoal Grill Enjoy the unique taste from Morocco and the Arab World HeyooDubai Restaurant Al. Jana Pawla 45/54 Tel. 535 075 770 Open daily 11:00-23:00 www.facebook.com/heyoodubai; www.tagine.pl

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00 Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00,

listings / restaurants www.groole.pl You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Hummus Bar (B4) ul. Żelazna 64, tel. 723 058 223, open 11:00-19:00, www.hummsubar.pl Much like the lime green interior, the concept is simple and straightforward: hummus, falafel and fresh pitta breads served to a busy lunchtime crowd. There’s nothing more to say other than it’s utterly delicious. $

Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:0023:00, www.manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – at times, queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), and most agree they’re worth the ridiculous waiting times - waits in excess of 20 minutes (and considerably more) are the norm. $

Kurczaki (D7) Oleandrów 8, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 If you like your birds spitroasted then look no further than Kurczaki, a budget eatery whose specialty is chicken. Wait it out in sweltering temperatures before being rewarded by ace chicken cooked in varying sizes and styles: depending on the

Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef will make your knees tremble. But

Krucza 24/26, Warsaw Tel. 516 817 855 www.batlazar.warszawa.pl facebook.com/baltazarbymondovino

day, that could mean in beer or in Thai or Jamaican sauces. $

with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $ Mr. Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff). They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $

•An open kitchen and an open-minded cuisine •A handpicked selection of 150 wines •The Budnik brothers bring you their Author’s cuisine: modern European with a French Accent www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants Soul Food Bus ul. Marynarska 11, tel. 513 609 480, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 501 201 975, open Mon-Sun 12:30-20:30 You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them. The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

cooking schools Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work. Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www. jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself. Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$

cuban

Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:0024:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature in 2014, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$

El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a wellexecuted orange and caramel sauce. $$

Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.

german

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$

Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, open 8:00-23:00, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by French pastry chef Laurent – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical

greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open 12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El

listings / restaurants Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard and communal table. So the surprise here is the food – Turkish. And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish! It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. The desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

indian Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:0023:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a finelooking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri

11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef, Ram, knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $

Beautiful interiors, the fragrance of cinnamon and cloves, a delectable menu and ambient music – enjoy this atmosphere these coming holidays.

Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al. Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:0022:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Ganesh (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 416 4162, open 12:00-24:00, www.ganesh.pl Vast and usually empty, the new Ganesh lacks the intimacy of the previous outpost on Wilcza and already looks a little scuffed and tired. While other Indian giants such as Rain and Tandoor have reinvented and rebooted themselves Ganesh plug away with an old menu of standard (and occasionally sub-standard) dishes. With excellence assured in Tandoor round the corner, you wouldn’t bet on Ganesh filling their million vacant tables. $$ Himalaya Momo (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 36, tel. 22 297 2100, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-21:30, www.himalayamomo.com There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor oven, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 A swirl of rumors surrounded Madras this summer, buoyed in part by an ad announcing the sale of the place. Rest assured it remains. Rated as the Insider’s No. 1 source for curry, while it looks cheap, cramped and claustrophobic Madras continues to earn its spurs for marvelous

New Year’s Eve Dinner 2015 Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 51 piekna@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants food. There are softer options available, but for a proper near death experience order the vindaloo: even your hair will feel like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. $ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www. mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress. pl Remember the cheap curries you once scoffed as a student? Well Mandala offers something similar. Immense portions, low prices and an efficient delivery service ensure plenty of custom, but the food is, at best, nothing more than ordinary. On a bad day, you might feel a little queasy. $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. mrindia.pl Opened by the creators of Curry House, Mr India touts the same menu but

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an interior that’s a substantial upgrade to its older sibling. As with the original, the spicy dishes could floor an elephant. It’s become a lifeline for Brits shipwrecked in Ursynów. $$

the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant. And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$

Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104, open 11:00-22:00, www.parivar.pl The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, whil e the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $

Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, open 11:00-22:00, rani.com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$

Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as

Rasoi (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, tel. 729 392 172, open 11:00-22:00. Throttled by roads and underpasses, while you may be able to see it from Złote Tarasy, good luck getting there in under ten minutes. But the location aside, there’s something very promising here.

listings / restaurants Good, well-priced curries inside a charmingly tacky interior of colorful cushions and a collection of trinkets. $$

cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $

Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com. pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab. Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

A nuż widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 So snug is A nuż widelece, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house. The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and stoking the fire. $$

international 2 Światy (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 534 325 325, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 13:0021:00 A restaurant, bar and hangout, 2 Światy blurs boundaries by presenting a competent drinks list alongside a small but well-formed menu that includes several after-midnight options. The design is urban and concrete, well-suited to the trendy Żurawia address. Akademia (E9) ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.restauracjaakademia.pl The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of the street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public. But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$ A Nóż (D9) ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388, open daily 9:00-23:00, www.anoz.pl ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asian-inspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. Paired with a

Baltazar by Mondovino (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26, tel. 516 817 855, open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, baltazar. warszawa.pl With its floor-to-ceiling windows Baltazar glints alluringly from a distance, its interiors soaked in rich colors and glimmering surfaces. As proved by the number of bottles on display, wine plays a prominent role here, with the choice complimenting a menu that pits modern author’s cuisine against classic European influences. Well-known from his stint at Duchnicka, chef Michał Budnik lends this family enterprise plenty of flair with a menu that’s already getting particular praise for its steaks. Full review next issue. Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, open Tue-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want, then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$ Bierhalle al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), Nowy Świat 64, Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Beer and food: a match made in heaven. Accompany your frothing stein of lager with traditional beery bites like sausages, schnitzel and pork knuckle. The menu is German / Polish slanted, but with a few international accents. $$ Bernie Grill & Beer (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasto 13/15, tel. 666 999 555, open 10:00-24:00, bernie.pl You might think any place with the words ‘beer’ www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants and ‘grill’ in their title deserves a crack, but everything about Bernie’s is ordinary and mainstream. We sent our food back after it was burned to a crisp, and we weren’t alone. Preying on passing tourists, it’s become one to avoid. $$ Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Step right in. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00, bubbles. com.pl Not named after Michael Jackson’s monkey, rather the drink of choice in this intimate venue. Doubling as a champagne bar, Bubbles has also been receiving praise for its upmarket menu and gourmet cheeses. Full review next issue. $$ Bydło i Poidło (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Filled with rawhide and industrial undertones, this grown-up version of Bydło I Powidło (see Burgers) has its accent on more high end meats, and specifically steaks. The food, however, never hits the heights the steep prices would suggest. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat

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11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when twinned with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712, open Tue-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00 The simple name implies exactly what it is: a restaurant in a house. Set in a pre-war home complete with a lawn and garden, this little secret isn’t all that secret. When the Insider visited it was packed, prompting staff to make some adjustments and put together a table. We’re glad they did. Their menu changes frequently, and on our visit included homemade focaccia, beef risotto and gravlax with lime foam on top of a mini-pancake. You won’t want to leave. $$ Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 With regards to food, think author’s cuisine with a Mediterranean twist and plenty of surprises along the way – edible flowers, nitrogen blasts, etc. The hangar steak scores big points, while the mid-market prices belie the high standard. Pleasingly, you get the idea Dwie Trzecie will work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet also intimate for winter. But will it work following the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonski? The next few months will be revealing. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:30-23:00;

Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ Jasna 24 (D4) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 24 41, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.jasna24.pl Slick, modern and loungey in look, Jasna 24 has a creative menu that include the use of deliciously unexpected combinations. Roll up on Wednesday’s if you prefer your dinner served with a slice of live music. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, www. facebook.com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine. All eyes are on new chef, Julian Zielonka, to see if he can take Kaskrut yet further: early indicators say yes. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Casual Dining”

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; -Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. burgerkitchen.plThe revolution is complete. Gone are the street food influences (though burgers have survived the edit), replaced instead by an intelligent menu authored by chef Piotr Ceranowicz. It doesn’t take long to appreciate the revisions, among them a beef tartar served with a scoop of mustard ice cream and lightly toasted homemade bread. Keeping to owner Tomek Wóźniak’s philosophies, the wonderful compositions of Ceranowicz make use of the freshest, seasonal ingredients and come complimented by some rather smashing cocktails. This is casual dining at its apex.

listings / restaurants Krucza 8 i Pól (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10 (enter from Krucza), tel. 784 461 397, open 11:00-23:00 Looking sparse and fashionable one expects Eight and a Half to be on-trend food-wise. No such luck. Fundamentally the food is fine, with quality ingredients cooked with technical competence. Yet while there are hints of skill in the kitchen, there’s little evidence of creativity, passion or invention: imagine the sort of modern European food you’d find in a generic five star hotel. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013. Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Chef” L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon 18:00-22:00; Tue-Fri 12:30-15:30, 18:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00, www.eterrible.pl What a few

months for L’enfant Terrible: opened at the end of summer, they’d already done enough by October to win Gazeta Wyborcza’s coveted Knajpy Roku award. And no-one deserves it more than Chef Michał Bryś, an innovative chef who leaves diners beaming. Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, Nolita open Mon-Fri 12.00-15.00 (lunch), 18.0022.30 (dinner); Sat 13.00-23.00, www. nolita.pl A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young

talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, advance bookings are recommended if you wish to enjoy this top-class experience. Some of the taste and sensations are utterly unexpected, with the Insider left speechless after enjoying the tuna tartar (zł.49) and aged beef fillet (zł. 97). Privately, many have been left bewildered by the lack of Michelin star. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Fine Dining” Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$

Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:00-23:00, www. restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired

“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw”

ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl Reservations: rezerwacja@nolita.pl

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00 Lunch, 18:00-22:30 Dinner; Sat 13:00-23:00

www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, open 11:00-22:30, restauracjapapu. pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Barek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats, while the wine list has been endorsed by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s champion sommelier. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occu-

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pant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean. $$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, open 11:00-22:00, puntaprima.com.pl There’s something immediately fetching

about Punta Prima, a place that announces itself grandly with its deep wood panels and embroidered armchairs. For food, choose from a varied menu that draws on largely Mediterranean influences. Try the bream with herbs baked i sea salt. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless

listings / restaurants remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Rozbrat 20 (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295, open Mon-Fri 7:30-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.rozbrat20.pl Everything a restaurant should be – modern, but not too excessive, as well as traditional at the same time. Elegance emanates from everything and class glints off the silver champagne bowl and tasteful crockery. The menu is a contemporary, international affair, much like the crowd who appreciate it. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. That they also fix Warsaw’s top cocktails makes it something of a one-stop solution to your evening. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30, 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’. Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish

1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Restaurant Design” Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the daily changing menu. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences around: and yeah, it doesn’t really look like restaurant. Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. We’re huge fans. $$

they thinking ignoring the form book like that? No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$ Szklarnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 690 511

Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.sowaiprzyjaciele.pl Rocked by its involvement in a government bugging scandal, Robert Sowa has moved fast to reassure customers that all is well in his restaurant. And we can as well. Looking the part with its soft colors and warm lighting, positives are underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that merits attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than he does on his kitchen: we’re happy to report on all of our visits we’ve seen him emerge from the background, sharing backslaps and bear hugs with his regular clientele. $$$ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia. pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with oddshaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00, www.restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants 020, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, restauracjaszklarnia.pl Natalia Huzarwicz’s cuisine is influenced by the season, which means plenty of warming winter dishes presented with real aplomb. Recognizable by the dazzle of neon and greenhouse outside, this is a restaurant that seamlessly fits with the Soho surrounds. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43. pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta. Consider Tamka one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, open daily 11:30-22:30, www.taste.pl To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering. Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal. $$

Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:3023:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Pairing international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Everyone enjoys the food, and Jakub Adamczyk’s seasonally adjusted menu is indeed a thing of greatness: the beef tenderloin is a must, while the rhubarb parfait is a dessert of distinction. The prices reflect the quality of the kitchen, but certainly not that of the wait staff – a year after opening, and Winosfera still haven’t ironed out issues such as front-of-house staff who greet guests with an ‘Uh’. $$$

Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl. Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year. Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$ You & Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 7:00-24:00; Fri 7:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, youandmebar.pl A modern looking eatery / cocktail bar whose kitchen has a distinct liking for pan-European dishes and seafood. Set over two floors, their enduring popularity – eight years and counting – makes it something of a legend on Żurawia. $$ Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, open 10:00-23:30, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for

listings / restaurants winter. And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and tender braised veal that’s good for the chills. You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$ Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 14:00-1:00; Sun 14:00-22:00, zurawina. eu First a wine bar, second a restaurant, but the food here is such that it merit attention. There’s only seven or so mains to pick from, and the chef has them down to a tee – rib eye with shallots and truffle butter? Yes please. Certainly, the quality befits one of Warsaw’s best wine bars.

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio

has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com. pl The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? How about a recommendation from Michelin… $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sun 12:00-22:00, dziurkaodklucza. com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969,

open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, focaccia.pl Polish foodies already know the name of Łukasz Toczka – single-handedly he pulled the culinary shipwreck that is Gdańsk into the 21st century during his stint at Metamorfoza restaurant. Now he’s popped up in Warsaw, and his Italian menu illustrates his talent: consider the bistecca con sedano a must. And while you’d expect a restaurant inside a palace to be all bowties and oil paintings, it’s anything but – instead find fresh, light interiors that reflect the nature of the food. $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27, open daily 13:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00), www. winiarnia-kotlownia.pl You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ La Tomatina (D5) ul. Krucza 47A, tel. 22 625 1047, open Sun-Thu 10:30-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:30-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.latomatina.pl Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef. • Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes. • The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

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listings / restaurants ingredients shouldn’t detract from good pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. Our spicy tiger prawn spaghetti was also okay, even if the presentation looked like a student had cooked it. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 When Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro pops in with his family you know something is going right. Here the statement piece is a Stefano Ferrara Napoli oven, used to maximum effect to create pizzas which have come to be considered amongst Warsaw’s best. Import ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Caputo flour add to the authenticity, and there’s a medley of other ‘staples from Naples’. $ Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recom-

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

mended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.nonsolo.pl Basic but modern looking: can be described as ‘cut-price cosmopolitan’. The kitchen takes Stage Center, and a stage it is – amateur theatrics are sometimes part of the bill. A staggering choice of pizzas await (we counted 48, but might have got it wrong), and while they’re pretty decent it’s a while since Nonsolo was talked about as being Warsaw’s best pie. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The

prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price. It’s in here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$ Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till.

listings / restaurants The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Trattoria Rucola ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 575 457 & ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, open daily 12:00-22:00 & ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 465 1836, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side to cover Old Town and the center. The M.O is replicated in all venues, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul. Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały

Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open MonFri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www.ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 13:00-22:00 Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Sushi Club (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, www. sushi-club.pl A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave. The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We return for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:0003:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi. pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tekeda Sushi & Wok (D1) ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushitekeda.pl Tekeda get it right with a good balance of sushi and www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants wok dishes, making it a popular destination with locals and passing tourists alike. The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Wasabi (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 314 6963, open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00, restauracjawasabi.pl A humdrum design shouldn’t be allowed to detract from what’s rated as the best value for money deal on sushi you’ll find in the city. The sets are a phenomenal deal, and the crowd a welcome step back from the preening posers of Sakana nearby. $$

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded. Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and

fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

latin & mexican Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant. Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $

listings / restaurants

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo. pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45° and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$ Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, open 12:0022:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, dostacos.pl After spending years in the increasingly sleazylooking Millennium Plaza, Dos Tacos finally

have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 Owned by a local hip hop star, this Gringo clearly knows what he’s doing. From the punchy salsa right down to the Jarridos soda, this tiny locale doles out Warsaw’s most authentic burritos knocked out by friendly staff dressed in baggy t-shirts and back-to-front caps. Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.ole-restaurant.pl A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most

people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, open Mon-Thu 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at 23:00); Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at midnight); Sun 12:00-19:00 (kitchen closes at 18:00), tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing summer zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, open 12:00-21:00, www. spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain

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listings / restaurants starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. After a mysterious absence of six months, it’s heartening to see Spoco Loco back open for business. $ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Howling hot salsas and freshly made tortillas give WTF a head start on other restaurants, but there are other strings to their poncho: the menu has been slimmed and continues to be tinkered with, while the introduction of zł. 19 lunches – served on Alcatraz trays – present one of the best deals in town. We’ve enjoyed the burritos here for years, and score them as the best in town. $$

middle eastern HeyooDubai (B2) Al. Jana Pawła 45/54, tel. 535 075 770, open 11:00-23:00, tagine.pl Any doubts you have about a restaurant trying to cover the cuisine of Morocco,

Pakistan and the Gulf states is immediately dispelled by the thick, rich aromas that pour from the traditional Mandi oven. The couscous is stalwart, and the charcoal grilled chicken a dish of real standing. Affordable and casual, Heyoo is the real deal. $$ Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www. lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

polish Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30;

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99 lecedre84@lecedre.pl

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year

Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings. Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

Le Cedre 84

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

www.lecedre.pl

when dining with friends. $$

listings / restaurants Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www. aterlieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory,

with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Outstanding Achievement”

That’s the house specialty, and you’d do well to find better. A whole bird for four is yours for zł. 490. $$$

Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bazyliszek. waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$

Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00); Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bialages.pl For that elegant touch of Zhivago-era class, it’s got to be Biała Gęś. Interiors conjure images of a countryside manor; you imagine rolling up here after a day shooting foxes. Yet it’s not those blighters on the menu, but geese.

Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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listings / restaurants bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $

Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$

Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leave, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Built for moments when nothing but the best will do, you note Dom Polski’s institution status the moment you enter: the sophistication, the elegance, it’s present in everything see, taste and touch. The prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl To quote an unknown source, traditional Polish food is a celebration of ‘heritage, culture, singing and vodka.’ But snooty Warsaw doesn’t do traditional, at least not in the same way tourist havens like Kraków do. So it’s a joy to find Folk Gospoda. Good humored and filled with gnarled furniture and mountain songs, it’s a place where warm memories are made. Mains are a manly affair (solid, meaty and generous in size) and arrive courtesy of waiters dressed as Zakopane tinkers. $$ Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead! An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the design (concrete floors, exposed brickwork) features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:00-24:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Kafe Zielony Niedwiedz (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, open 8:00-23:00. The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching Zbyszek Kmieć’s restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu has hints of Atelier Amaro in its fiendish attention to natural Polish produce: the cream of beetroot soup is peerless, and the boar ragout gains similar approval. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation. At the same time, be warned the scene here might not appeal: it’s very stars in your eyes as Polish celebs – both major and minor – swan about while their acolytes simper. $$ Oycowizna ul. Słoneczna 241 (Lesznowola), tel. 22 713 8993, open 11:00-23:00, oycowizna.pl A bucolic country cottage set 20 clicks from Warsaw is home to this charmer of a hotel / restaurant. Filled with hanging pots, pans and horseshoes, there’s something authentically Polish about it all. Same goes for the menu, which is a deliciously filling rundown of the Old Polish kitchen. $$ Pierrogeria (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 22 743 7644, open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.pierrogeria.eu Pierogi: the pride of the Polish pantry… Pervasive in their presence, no other dish features so heavily on local menus. Even so, the search for perfect pierogi

listings / restaurants can lead only to one door: and you’ll find that particular portal on pl. Konstytucji. Through their use of unconventional fillings and natural ingredients, Pierrogeria elevate a standard, staple food into a class of its own. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $

farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open MonFri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is paired by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$

Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.podgigantami. pl Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$

U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table:

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska.

The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical

RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR

restaurant with a cocktail bar in the BUSTLING center of Warsaw, invites YOU to TASTE THE BEST OF Polish cuisine.

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listings / restaurants Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

seafood Seaside Bistro (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 607 562 122, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:0021:00 Who doesn’t like being greeted at the door by a hearty buongiorno? That comes from Mario, a chef who insists on flying his ingredients daily from Italy. The seafood is the best we’ve had in Warsaw: huge shrimps, and mussels served in an invigorating white wine sauce that’s both salty and spicy. The interior is a simple fisherman’s cabin space,

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

and it’s easy to overlook details such as scraggy tables and obnoxious expats with slicked back hair and big, chunky watches: with food like this, who cares? $$

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12, open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 7:30-16:00 Filling the void left by the departure of Hala Koszyki, Bazar Olkuska garners together an array of top suppliers for your grocery wants and needs: stalls include those of I Love Hummus, La Petit France, Crazy Butcher and Damas. Ethnically varied, the principle narrative strand connecting them all is the quality. Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in

1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. British Shop (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated

listings / restaurants Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine. Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available. La Fromagerie (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, open Mon-Wed 9:00-20:00; Thu-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www. lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, gourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more. La Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, open Mon-Sat 10:30-18:30, www.lapetitefrance. pl Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France. Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116, open Sat 10:00-15:00 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however. Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, www.littleindia. pl The definitive Indian store though it doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.maho.com.pl An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the flagship Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early. Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries. Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less! Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.namasteindia.pl Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

“Authentic Italian Cuisine prepared by real Italians”

ul. Freta 41/43, tel. 884 903 488 www.nonnarita.pl info@nonnarita.pl Open Tue-Sun: from 12:00 to last client

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, open 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, samira. pl Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks. Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast

Nonna Rita recommends: Barbera “Poggio Marino”, Marchese Adorno www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-16:00,

Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, www. merliniego5.pl Set up like a New York bistro,

Merliniego 5 is a cross between a wine bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. While they pride themselves on their 9+ rated kobe beef, it’s the USDA filet mignon that we rate as the top drawer – it’s sublime. $$$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

KURT SCHELLER IS COOKING FOR YOU!

Kurt Scheller

and Bierhalle invite you to discover our amazing new dishes at our restaurants/microbreweries ............

NEW MENU!

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

al. Jana Pawła II 82 (CH Arkadia) ul. Marszałkowska 55/73 Nowy Świat 64

cafes & wine bars Resort

bakeries Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

WARSAW’S WEIRDEST CAFES... OSiR (Tamka 40) OSiR’s manifesto declares it a ‘cycle culture’ café, which means incoming guests should brace for all kinds of bike related props in this urban, raw and ready hideout. Beyond the cycling propaganda, there’s much to recommend: rare find beers, street-style hot dogs, and a cool, tranquil crowd that livens up for DJ sets at the weekend from the likes of London Massive and Kool & the Funk. OSP SASKA KĘPA (Walecznych 74) A funky little café bar found inside a fully-functioning fire station. A little on the small side, the interior features several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks. Marking it out yet further is the warmth of its welcome and numerous events that range from karaoke and football matches to film screenings and concerts. RESORT (Bielańska 1) The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. Concerts and comedy nights keep business ticking on quieter days. W OPARACH ABSURDU (Ząbkowska 6) ‘In the Fumes of Absurdity’ celebrated its eighth birthday last month, a timeframe that’s seen it assume the crown of Warsaw’s most shambolic café-bar. Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

Przystanek Piekarnia (D6) ul. Koszykowa 58, przystanekpiekarnia.pl The atmosphere is brisk and buzzing inside what’s emerged as the breadbasket of choice for Warsaw’s fashionistas. An interesting design authored by architect Maciej Kurkowski makes use of dozens of wooden slats that seemingly cascade from the ceiling, but make no mistake, the talking point is the bread and luxurious pastries. SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 606 836 836, www.sam.info.pl A central, communal table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata KusinaDoran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc.

cafés Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 826 6619, open Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest, www. blikle.pl There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts. Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / cafés & wine bars gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:0023:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in this industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal. Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit? They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined! Christian’s Bakerhouse (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.bakerhouse.pl “Our chef places great emphasis on quality,” confided our waitress, and that’s no word of a lie. Numerous national breakfasts are represented, from nutritious kick-starters to a full British fry-up – which we’ve yet to see bettered by anywhere in Warsaw. The pet project of celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski – and not some nutty religious order as the name might suggest – the offer extends beyond breakfast to good Italian staples cooked with a twist.

Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:00-20:00 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level. Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31, open 10:00-22:00; Sat

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital. Dr. Kava (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 601 615 327, open MonFri 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www. drkava.pl Looking dynamite red, Dr. Kava was one of the success stories of 2013 – some go as far as to say it’s their favorite coffee in the city. Coffee from Chicco d’Oro and chocolates and confectionary from pedigree producer Leone signal this doctor’s dedication to his clientele. Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. Kawiarnia Fabryczna ul. Fabryczna 28/30, open 7:30-22:00, www.kawiarniafabryczna.pl Penning your memoirs? Here’s the place to do so. With its natural wood floors, muted lighting and retro style chairs, Fabryczna is just about the definitive Powiśle café. Order an Ethiopian drip coffee and get that notepad out. Latający Obiekt (D7) Oleandrów 3, tel. 732 870 780, open 15:00-20:00 “I like Frisbee, I like beer – that’s

why I created this place,” so says Piotr, the owner. Made in Canada Frisbees come in all colors and shapes (even mini-size for mutts), and are complimented by regional beers and homemade biscuits. A bizarre find in Poland – likely the first of its kind. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Ranked 16th in the WORLD, you can put your faith in the house barista. Using Arabica from Colombia, Kenya and Guatemala, rave reviews are both standard and appropriate. The backdrop muddles pristine wall tiles with comfy chaises and uber-cool lighting, with the ambience never too commercial, nor too hipster – rather, just right. MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open MonFri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open

listings / cafés & wine bars 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while spring sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 796 880 822 or 793 567 125. open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

wine bars

Strefa (D7) Oleandrów 3, tel. 784 404 731, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00 A pleasing find, Strefa’s casual atmosphere is emphasized by a stack of board games and books in the corner – people come here to dwell and dawdle over hot coffee, craft beer, changing art and a slice of homemade cake. A strong sense of neighborhood prevails, with owners of neighboring businesses always swinging by for a chat and a chew. Tarabuk ul. Browarna 4, tel. 22 827 0814, open 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00, tarabuk.pl “I come here to escape Warsaw,” confides one Insider. And yeah, there’s a quality to Tarabuk that allows one to do just that. Heaving with books and raggedy furniture, it’s a place in which to order an eco-tea, maybe a slice of cake, open Chapter 12 and then let hours slip away. WakeCup Café (C1) ul. Franciszkańska 14, tel. 503 113 240, open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 8:0021:00, wakecupcafe.pl A superb discovery landed in the no-man’s land that straddles New Town and Muranów. WakeCup don’t believe in taking coffee shortcuts (recommended: raspberry frappe), and have a fiendish obsession with beans from Brazil. Also notable and noteworthy for their fruity cocktails, pastries and energetic café buzz.

Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls. BEST WAWA 2013 “Wine Bar” Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl Successfully establishing themselves over summer, you’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues

with the appearance of Heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled floors, and simple, well-thought interiors. With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, Heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an ascendant new money crowd. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates with casual city cool. Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ VinoTrio ul. Marszałkowska 76, tel. 22 826 1697, open Mon 12:00-21:00; Tue-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00, vinotrio.pl Specializing in French, Spanish and Italian wine, VinoTrio touts price points that appeal to all incomes – bottles begin at zł. 30. Despite the small footprint the choice is extensive and the ambiance congenial. WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00, www.winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 25 00, open MonSat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection. www.warsawinsider.pl

nightlife Piękna Mery

bars & pubs Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00-last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

UPS & DOWNS

We take a closer a look at our favorite venues found upstairs / downstairs… BERLIN-WARSZAWA EXPRESS (Most Poniatowskiego / corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja) Two bars, one spirit: found on opposite ends of a concrete footbridge, these two bars have a grungey look and a cult-like status. Berlin (see p. 30) might be our runaway favorite, but Warszawa also merits a look – not least for its weird mezzanine gallery found up a steep, narrow stairwell. The night just goes on and on here. CZESKA BASZTA (Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego) Halfway up one of the Harry Potter turrets that support Poniatowski Bridge, find divey Czeska engulfed in a murky yellow glow. There’s about 80 reasons to love this place, and you’ll find them in the fridge: the collection of Czech beer is peerless. And where better to enjoy them than in the smoking room, a tight cupboard-style chamber where boisterous banter is only interrupted by the rattle and rumble of the overhead trams. PIĘKNA MERY (Piękna 22) A subterranean café bar whose fridge includes a solid stock of boutique beers (Faktoria, Ale Browar, Olimp, etc.) and hipster colas. The fun interiors of this underground lair feature the odd zebra print, and even pics of Kermit & Piggy. PO DRUGIEJ STRONIE LUSTRA (Jagiellońska 22) Duck into this cellar bar to enjoy ten taps and six or so fridges filled with quirky beers from the backwater breweries. Found down a stairwell lined with bottle tops and coasters, PDSL draws a loud crowd usually engaged in boisterous behavior. Warning: the dried fish snacks might seem a good idea after Beer No. 9, but you’ll taste them for days after.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank. Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, open 11:00-last guest, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, Bierhalle have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. But what really stokes the atmosphere is the beer: it’s delicious! Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd. What has remained constant is the energy. Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound. www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / nightlife British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The most faithful replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the standard of their beer, you might want to follow their example. Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream garbage. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here! This sleek space comes drenched in autumn sunlight that slants through the four glass walls, while the shaded courtyard is frequently utilized for various one off events and food truck meets. Find 15 taps dispensing regional and craft brews as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond. Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open 16:00-last guest,2 www.czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:0024:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.czeskabaszta.

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success. Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul. Nowolipki), open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Fri 15:00-2:00; Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 13:0022:00 You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz. Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, open daily 11:00-last guest, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night. Jedna Trzecia ul. Wilcza 52, tel 605 589 588, open

Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-24:00 What began life a couple of months ago as a Belgian bar has expanded their offer to reflect Poland’s growing fascination with international artisan beer. Yes they’ve got Belgian beers aplenty, but they’ve also got top sips from Brew Dog, not to mention niche American finds such as the cult Alaskan, Danish Mikeller as well as many domestic finds. The industrial design of breeze blocks and chipboard is softened by mustard lighting and a laidback audience. Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, it’s the kind of cocktail bar that Warsaw’s been waiting for. Find innovative cocktails fixed by fun, playful staff, not to mention unexpected surprises such as a bike with antlers and prizes (a yo-yo!) for anyone who can make an origami paper cock out of the menu (as in a rooster, not something naughty). Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though. Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage. BEST WAWA 2013 “Beer Bar” Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to spread the gospel of regional and new wave

listings / nightlife beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd. Insider an updated interior. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Celebrating their fourth anniversary this September just gone, Legends is slowly edging its way to legendary status amongst the ex-pats and Anglophiles. It’s all helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and other such events. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. Leniviec Mojito Embassy ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 22 350 7777, open 16:00-last guest, leniviec.pl Set down a steep set of steps, it’s certainly not as stately as the name suggests. On the contrary, this compact basement has a cheerful, dive bar look that works surprisingly well: pics of revolutionaries and a couple of flags. The drinks are Cuban inspired (mojitos, daiquiris, etc.) and served in both classic and contemporary style. After, check their sister cocktail bar around the corner. Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. tel. 510 905 592, open

Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00 Hands up who loves good beer? Thought so. Małe Piwo have been a sensation since opening, preempting the craft beer trend and in the process attracting huge crowds of every sub-section of the hipster community. The choice of bottles is immense, and enjoyed in an edgy, dive bar background that’s snugger than a mouse’s waistcoat. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest condensation of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. OSP Saka Kępa ul. Walecznych 74, tel. 603 103 888, open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ospsaskakepa.pl A little on the small side, the interior features several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks (it’s in a fully functioning fire station!). A decent beer selection cools down neighborhood drinkers, not to mention decent bites which include a refreshing melon chłodnik.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-2:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a wellto-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling. Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, open daily 18:00-last guest, www.paparazzi.com. pl Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door. Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. Parking Bar (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 501 623 456 or 537 606 897, open Sun-Thu 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-6:00, www.parkingbar.eu It looks raw

Restauracja / Bar / Klub

ul. Nowy Świat 58, Warszawa | Al. Jana Pawła 9-11 (Aleja Topolowa), Gdynia www.bollywoodlounge.pl / Polub nas na Facebooku

www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / nightlife and ready, but then what did you expect from a place on the ground floor of a car park. Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on their weekend club nights. Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice for summer 2014. And now, the reopening of Świętokrzyska should lead a few more people through the door – they’ll like what they see. Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things

you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 24 hrs Grandiosely declaring themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap’ bar, Piw Paw’s armory includes 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem? Designed more for carry-out custom, Piw Paw nonetheless packs out with punters often spilling outside creating an almost street party vibe. Piw Paw na Foksal ul. Foksal 16, tel. 534 734 945, open 16:00-last guest, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative. Przychodnia (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 827 8356, open 12:0024:00 Whoever thought theming a bar on a communist hospital deserves to be sectioned off to one. The interiors are fun (operating theater lights, surgical utensils and a row of toilets in the smoking room), but beyond the gimmickry it’s a place of conventional (bad) Polish beers and frosty staff – if that’s part of the theme we’d rather it weren’t. Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Try their best seller: the

Dear Guests! We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine. Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in. Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness. Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

listings / nightlife Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink BEST WAWA 2013 that kicks like a mule. “Cocktails” Sketch w Teatrze Wielkim Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 602 762 764, open 12:00-1:00, sketch.pl Running 21 taps the Sketch team have taken their return to local nightlife seriously. Looking light, bright and industrial, this looks set to become the tap bar of choice for people who want to drink alongside a premium crowd that’s all about style and smiles – this is not a place for beer geeks with home-knitted jumpers. The prices reflect this – Pacific, for instance, is marked up 30% compared to other bars of this ilk. Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. Sztuki i Sztuczki (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 468 00 00, open Sun-Thu 12:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 18:00-last guest, www.sztukisztuczki.pl Visitors negotiate a maze of narrow corridors, nooks and corners, with meanderings to the leviathan, boat-shaped bar taking in concrete floors, naked brickwork and vaulted ceilings. The beer list offers a jumble of exemplary brews, among them the outstanding Grimbergen, while cocktails are novel and largely ravishing. And of course, it helps that enjoyment of them is done on ultra-cool seats designed by Pierre Favresse. Rather than attracting gurning wannabe’ Latino dudes and plastic models the music attracts a diverse range of peeps: that’s thanks to a schedule that encompasses everything from jazz tributes to club nights. BEST WAWA 2013 “Late Night” Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest,

www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all. The recent addition of boutique beverages such as Brew Dog and Thistly Cross has gone down a treat. Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, tel. 22 474 40 84, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure last year. Not just a bar, they’re now filling a dual role as Warsaw’s one billionth burger joint. You & Me ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, youandmebar.pl The dreaded restobar concept doesn’t always work, but You & Me manage to get both the food AND the drink right. And in their case, that mean innovative cocktails enjoyed by an after-work crowd of posey city slickers. The terrace is where the action is at.

clubs Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary for a night to remember. De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior. www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / nightlife Element (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 22 667 435 363 or 22 692 42 42, open Thu-Sat 22:00-7:00, www. elementclub.pl With door control negotiated, clubbers slip downstairs into a blue-lit labyrinth heaving with slick, polished finishes and a thumping sound system. Marketed at the higher end of the clubbing world, there’s no shortage of temptresses gyrating around in a dense cloud of perfume. Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com WW

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost. Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Billed as one of the top ‘rich and pretty’ clubs in the capital, Foksal features a competitive ‘look at me’ spirit and flash interiors that are all chandeliers and champagne. Cardboard animal shapes hanging from the bar inject much needed humor to this cream of the crop club. Don’t even think of trying to gain entry without first tipping a bottle of aftershave down your pants. Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better. Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub. pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/ Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. 530 360 060, open Tue-Wed 18:00-2:00; Thu-Sat 18:005:00; Sun 18:00-2:00, www.senpszczoly.pl A dive club of legend. With the original turned to ashes (literally, it burnt down last year), the owners could have been forgiven for calling it a day. They haven’t. Instead they’ve reopened in Koneser, and unleashed Warsaw’s most surreal interior in the process: amid the heavy industrial background expect bunk bed frames, a dentist’s chair and no shortage of neon painted weirdness. Concerts are a mixed bag, and range from didgeridoo performances to inter-war songs to full-on techno.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00, www.artbasen.pl Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list. Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts. Nu Nu Nu (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00. For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd. Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

shopping Bombkarnia

accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www. agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

BOMBKI AWAY BOMBKARNIA (ul. Emilii Plater 47, bombkarnia.pl) Founded in 2006 by Małgorata Esse, Bombkarnia’s success has been such that their baubles found themselves in the official gift packs given to President Obama and Nicolas Sarkozy. Inspired by folk art and Polish Baroque, the elaborate ornaments are mouth-blown, hand-crafted and decorated by Polish artists. CHRISTMAS MARKETS (pl. Wilsona and the Barbakan) With Warsaw’s traditional Christmas fair shunted from the Rynek, head instead to the Barbakan to peruse a line of cabins retailing locally produced bombki (baubles) – and have a mug of piping hot wine while you’re there! A different market is also slated to open on pl. Wilsona on December 3rd. FABRYKA BOMBEK (Kordeckiego 48, facebook.com/fabryka.bombek. warszawa) Founded in 1948 this bauble factory organizes workshops and suchlike, with over 90% of its stock being exported to America – Dick Cheney is, apparently, a former customer, and so too Pope John Paul II. RED ONION (ul. Burakowska 5/7, redonion.pl) Christmas decorations don’t have to be loud and lairy and the proof is supplied by Red Onion. Founded in 1999 by a Canadian, this home design store is great all-year round, but comes into its element each December as a catch-all source for Xmas emergencies: not just for brilliantly quirky gift ideas, but cool extras with a festive spirit.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances. BeautyLab Polska ul. Belwederska 20/22, beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care. Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel. 794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / shopping Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula. Kate Roxs ul. Radna 10, kateroxs.eu Beyond the slightly creepy / fetishistic window display (leather Roman body armor), this store has earned a reputation for high quality, natural leather bags. “Our inspiration,” says Kate, “comes from women, not trends.” Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 403 19 19, open Mon-Fri 11:19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, www.lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista. Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space. Omega Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, omegawatches. com Newly opened, Poland’s first Omega boutique showcases watches, leather accessories and jewelry across 200 sq/m of luxury real estate. Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40, tel. 798 025 505, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris. Pracownia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, pracowniaczasu.pl A true market leader with brands including Paul Picot, Graham London, Vulcain, Cuervo y Sobrinos, Ulysse Nardin and so many more.

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

books American Bookstore Various locations, www.americanbookstore. pl Now a nationwide chain with seven outlets alone in Warsaw. The offer is overwhelmingly commercial with a strong emphasis placed on international bestsellers. There is, however, a very decent section dedicated to Polish history and tourism. Bookoff Ogrodowa 7, tel. 22 253 6286, www.bookoff. pl A cult bookstore filled with trendy fashion and design bibles, photography albums, on-trend cookbooks and grown-up comics. You could potentially end up spending really rather heavily. Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl Look no further for books on modern Polish / Warsaw history. Of particular note are the picture heavy coffee table tomes that focus on Poland’s immediate pre-war, occupation and socialist years. Boffins are happy to spend hours browsing.

fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with ladies and mens apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, tel. 22 826 1956, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories. Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), tel. 22 310 73 13, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Lolly Pop Boutique Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl Latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 519 000 049, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.zien.pl A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultimate designer showroom. Madox ul. Browarna 4, madoxdesign.com Best known for the baggy crotched trousers that took Warsaw by storm a couple of years back, Damian Nowacki’s fashion store juxtaposes urban street casual against unisex ideas.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Brands include: Balmain, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi,

listings / shopping Herve Leger, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham and Yves Salomon. Mostrami.pl www.mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands include: Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino and Yves Salomon. And also in the luxury baby corner: baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids and Tod’s Kids. Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, tel. 733 874 609, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

home Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 8373, piesczysuka.com Husband and wife team Beata Konarska and Paweł Konarski push the boundaries of creativity in a home design store that’s heavy with statement pieces: life sized moldings of animals, illuminated Jesus statues, edgy art, etc. Product Placement ul. Leszczyńska 12, polishdesignnow.com

Anyone doubting Poland’s growing reputation in the world of home design hasn’t been to Product Placement. Ceramics, furniture, textiles, kitchenware, bags and gadgets – everything is worth a look. Red Onion ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00, www. redonion.pl Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget. Reset Point ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. Plenty of pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic design studios. Secret Life (of Things) ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, tel. 600 486 582 or 509 852 617, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.secretlife.pl An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Spod Lady ul. Chmielna 26, spodlady.com Step in and breathe in the atmosphere of communist Poland. This shop’s a beauty, and brims with collectibles that have seen classic PRL keepsakes given a contemporary update. Books, films, bags, toys and general items for the home inside this cult courtyard store.

Blind Concept Store ul. Mokotowska 63/100, tel. 501 770 661 From international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution. Find it all from eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday and Woodyglasses, killer heels from United Nude and Melissa & Vivienne Westwood, etc Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open MonSat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www. galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 828 6789 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

malls & department stores

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family activities Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, www. barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

Smyk and Toys “R” Us are unavoidable with an 8-year-old to please, but an interactive monster called Xeno will not be stuffing her stocking! I still believe a thoughtful gift is sourced locally and that the last minute dash and panic buying session is all part of that Christmas spirit. Therefore, I have found a great alternative gift for family or friends. With quirky, educational and affordable gifts at the gift shops, an annual pass to any of the following places will guarantee more than just a few days of fun. COPERNICUS SCIENCE MUSEUM (kopernik.org.pl) Annual pass: 2-19 yrs zł. 96 For all ages, this is the best toy shop in town! From globes to glow in the dark stickers, puzzles to real chemical experiments, gem stones to books about the planets, etc. Everything you learn about in the Centre you can interact with and buy smaller versions of in the gift shop. And, with an annual pass, you walk right past the queue every time! WARSAW ZOO (zoo.waw.pl) Annual pass: 3-16 yrs zł. 100 Warsaw Zoo is in my top five city tips. Firstly it is a park, then you see animals and, lastly, there’s a gift shop. The zoo is open throughout the year round and beautiful in all seasons. Feeding times are available online so you can plan your trip according to your favorite animal of the moment. Pop in for 30mins or stay the day: this annual ticket is to be treasured. NARADOWE MUSEUM (mnw.art.pl) Annual pass: over 7 years plus zł. 6080 If your child is a budding artist or archeologist then this is the ticket. Art from medieval times right the way up to the 20th century is housed in the recently restored museum. The new gift shop is loaded with interesting books, notebooks, magnets, t-shirts, posters and bags all reproducing the masterpieces on display in the exhibitions! It might not be up there with London, or Paris, but neither is the ticket price. (GBB)

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

Guitar Classes Tel. 732 860 725 (mobile) Private guitar lessons either at your place or in a private studio in Wilanów. Classic, acoustic and electric guitar taught by Arek, a 35-year old teacher who covers most styles from classic to pop/rock. Previous work experience includes teaching in private music schools in California and at The British School of Warsaw. Both kids and adults are welcome. HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:0024:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools. Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu. Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

GIFTS FOR KIDS

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, http://gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children.

listings / family education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15. The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel. 781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations

for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15. Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17. Buzzy Bee Bilingual Preschool & Kindergarten ul. Śląska 45, tel. 502 036 962 / 22 863 30 96, www.przedszkole-wlochy.pl An English immersion program designed for Polish and international children aged one to five. The curriculum is conducted in Polish and English and prepares children for entry into their Vancouver primary schools. The school is situated in a quiet, green neighborhood of Stare Włochy and includes a 2,000 sq/m garden. The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m

from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away from Ogródek Jordanowski. All children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecole-montessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

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listings / family schools

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, www.hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, open Mon-Fri 7.30-18:00, www.argonaut.edu.pl This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/or to visit our school contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. The Canadian School of Warsaw Primary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www. canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction). Vancouver School ul. Globusowa 38, tel. 887 808 266, vancouverschools.pl The teaching system here combines the best practices and aspects of the Polish and Canadian education systems, with daily classes in English conducted in accordance with the proven method of ‘immersion’ using modern Canadian and British materials. Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

cafes Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561 or 502 683 246, open 10:00-20:00 The interiors look bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

listings / family Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www.nabocafe.pl Nabo is run by a Danish couple and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

shops Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel. 22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc. Smyk Multiple stores, tel. 22 462 7250, www. smyk.pl Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

BROUGHT TO YOU BY MUPPETSHOP

We Wish You a Muppet Christmas!

here’s a quiet corner of Mokotów that’s created a stir. Tracing the source of this buzz leads to the door of Muppetshop, a warm little enclave that’s emerged as a must-know address. Billed as a ‘concept store for the young’ (both in age and in spirit), this recently revamped space is unique to Warsaw. Not here the anonymity and cold glares of the high street stores, instead find personalized service that prefers to treat clients as guests: that becomes clear over the cup of tea the

multi-lingual staff are keen for you to have. With a focus on interiors (amongst them full projects), Muppetshop offers a complete layette program for expecting parents, and design / lifestyle solutions that cover such bases as the ‘baby stage’ to the first-owned apartment. What unifies it all is a mantra that repeats the importance of quality, functionality and design. Just because the baby is on its way, Muppetshop affirms there’s no need to abandon good taste. “Your home can still look beautiful,” says the proprietor, Ewelina, “you don’t have to switch to filling it with cheap pink plastic.” On the contrary, Muppetshop’s offer is timeless, with design pieces that will remain relevant to your home no matter what the child’s age. World-renowned brands such as Ferm Living, Quax, Kid’s Mill, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, RICE, Universo Positivo, Mr Marius, Collegien, Jielde, Petit Friture, and Gubi plus many others are on display, with Ewelina constantly personally searching for other top brands to add to the portfolio. While this attention to detail makes Muppetshop an essential visit all year-round, there is never a better time to pop by than December. With the sound of Santa’s sleigh bells ringing in the air, Muppetshop have added an array of one-off, Christmas-appropriate gifts to their shelves: for inspiration, a tip-toe around their website (muppetshop. pl) should give you plenty of ideas. These are gifts that speak of love. And with absolutely everything covered, right the way down to clothing, toys, books and kitchenware, the depth of their catalogue ensures you won’t be clicking through 50 websites to find the dream gift. This is your one-stop answer and you’ll be very grateful for it. Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, open Mon-Fri 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-15:00, muppetshop.pl

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health & beauty National Stadium

cycling stores & service AveBmx ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 828 0213, avebmx. pl Cult BMX store in the hip Powiśle district. Staffed by true enthusiasts who live the BMX lifestyle, it’s the No. 1 spot in Warsaw for those who see BMX as the only way to cycle. Bikeman Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant. Accessories include helmets, gloves, backpacks plus everything you need to revive your bike if it passes out. Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572 Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out.

GET YOUR SKATES ON… NATIONAL STADIUM (Al. Poniatowskiego 1, zimowynarodowy.pl) This is the one everyone is taking about. Find three rinks (two of which are connected by an ‘ice path’), an ‘ice hill’, a disco rink and a Christmas fair and ‘ice bistro’ in the middle of it all. Last year saw 105,000 people visit, and that number is expected to be smashed this time around. Price: zł. 13-15 for 75 mins. OLD TOWN (Rynek Starego Miasto) Following its hugely successful debut last year, Old Town’s ice rink returns on December 5th, this time with the rink centered around the mermaid statue. Once again there’ll be numerous wooden cabins selling mulled wine, snacks and gifts – skating under the stars here is an absolutely magical experience. PALACE OF CULTURE (pl. Defilad 1) Absent last year – to the complete horror of the locals – it remains to be seen whether or not the rink outside PKiN will reopen this year: keep your ear to the ground… TORWAR (ul. Łazienkowska 6A, torwar.pl) Lacking the bells and whistles of other more modern rinks, Torwar is something of a blast to the past. Admission is charged at zł. 8-12 with skate rental from zł. 7.

Wygodny Rower Various locations, tel. 888 498 498, wygodnyrower.pl Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.

gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars. Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning. www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / health & beauty Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct. Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there. McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation of machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle. Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek. RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, Englishspeaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced. Elektoralna Dental Clinic ul. Elektoralna 28, tel. 22 620 2140, elektoralna.pl State-of-the-art dental clinic featuring Poland’s first dental tomograph. Languages spoken include English, German, Spanish and Arabic. Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul. Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment. English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst

ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district. Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides. Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www.wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.

spas & salons Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products. Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:0014:00, www.repechage.net.pl A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatments for the whole body. Komiks ul. Radna 12, tel. 881 436 056, komiks.waw.

listings / health & beauty pl You know those weird haircuts that people like David Bowie and Lady Gaga have? Well, here’s the place to make that ultimate fashion statement and get one yourself. Henna art, manicure / pedicure also offered.

men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers. Spearside ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 789 109 119, spearside.pl Warsaw’s premier male spa / salon offers massage, manicure, scrubs, physiotherapy and a range of treatments aimed at improving your ‘quality of life’. Hair and grooming solutions are provided by Maciej, a barber of exceptional talent. Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for

sport

First Warsaw Golf & Country Club ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), tel. 22 782 4555, firstwarsawgolf.com Found 25 kiometers from Warsaw, this golf club features a par 71, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, club house and a stunning backdrop to which to enjoy it all. Sinnet Club ul. Gołkowska 2, tel. 22 550 3400, www. sinnet.pl An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities. Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), tel. 22 499 6466, squashcity.pl Considered one of the top squash clubs in the country, Squash City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc.

W Pionie ul. Nowowiejska 37B, wpionie.pl An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers. Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country, English-speaking instructors can be rustled up on request.

swimming Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), tel. 22 773 9191, wesolandia.pl Features a recreational pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities. Holmes Place Premier ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, holmesplace. pl All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best. Enquire direct about membership fees. Private Coaching Tel. 512 517 013, anthonypst.wix.com/ anthonypst Ozzie Anthony offers one-onone swimming classes conducted at your venue of choice. Fully qualified, he offers tailor-made lessons for all ages and all levels of proficiency: from total beginners to competitive swimmers.

Odent was established to ensure the highest level of service on the dental map of Warsaw. We offer flexible hours, cutting edge technology and two branches in convenient locations in Żoliborz and Ursynów. Scope of services: • Orthodontics • Teeth Whitening • Cutting-edge prosthetics

• Dental surgery and maxillofacial implants • Conservative treatment, cosmetic dentistry

• Treatment of children • Root canal treatment of teeth using traditional microscopic • X-ray lab

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in the city 5 1

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Lighter thrills arrive in the form of the Poster Museum in the palace’s former stables. Allegedly the largest in the world, 20th century Polish poster art forms the bulk of the exhibition. And you won’t miss the half-finished Temple of Divine Providence not far away. Looking like it’ll blast off into space, this giant building site is one of great oddities of modern Poland.

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NEIGHBORHOOD SNOOP: WILANÓW

Head south this December for Warsaw’s top winter attraction, and while you’re there, well… why not explore a little… Composed of 150,000 lights, the Labyrinth of Light is a spectacular Alice In Wonderland-themed installation that has crowds weaving through a maze of illuminated oddities that number a white rabbit and an enormous teapot. Set in the palace park, it’s a magical experience that’s best experienced while the snow gently falls.

Branded ‘the Polish Versailles’, a visit to Wilanów Palace (Potockiego 10/16) is mandatory if you like your museums to be solemn and old-fashioned. A baroque masterpiece, its numerous treasures include the former royal living quarters and a multitude of eccentric keepsakes.

While locals complain about the non-existent nightlife Wilanów does, at least, have a growing clutch of credible restaurants. Taste Wilanów’s modern international menu is without doubt the best of the bunch (Kazachska 1), though family-friendly Nowa Kuźnia (Kostki Potockiego 24) is also a safe bet.

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl

Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl

3-Star Hotels

Vision Apartments Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 81 ( 22nd floor), tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu Founded in Switzerland, Vision Apartments specialize in the rental of high-quality furnished apartments. In Warsaw, the company is present with designer apartments inside Platinum Towers on ul. Grzybowska.

Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl

car rental

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / in the city RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.

polish for foreigners Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 22 403 7872 or 517 459 418, www.frog.org.pl Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. Klub Dialogu Gałczyńskiego 4, lok 903, tel. 664 788 004, www.klubdialogu.pl Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

community InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town. International Women’s Group of Warsaw iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month. Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook. St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year. Taste of the Classics www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

museums Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl What looks like a cemetery of rust and a tangle of exhaust pipes unravels into Warsaw’s most underrated museum. Find vehicles of every description: Lech Wałesa’s Volvo (with 7cm

bullet-proof windows), Gomułka’s ZIS limo, German wartime armor and a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark – the type favored by Elvis and Marilyn. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special. Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroquestyle castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing till January 11: Reel-Unreel (Afghan Projects 2010-2014). Polish-born artist Francis Alys presents a selection of paintings, sketches, documents and collages related to his travels around Afghanistan. Forming the centerpiece is his film, Reel-Unreel. Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets. Ongoing until April 6: The Great War in the East (19141918). Usually associated with the Western Front, this photographic exhibition aims to redress the balance by covering WWI from an eastern angle. The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation. If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, mhw.pl The

listings / in the city granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film that details the depressing story behind the destruction of Warsaw. The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, lazienki-krolewskie.pl Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of King Stanisław August this museum includes paintings and furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history, as well as temporary exhibi-

tions of more modern work. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 70’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Museum of the Blessed Father Jerzy Popieluszko ul. Hozjusza 2, popieluszko.pl A museum in the basement of the church relates the story of Jerzy Popiełuszko, the Solidarity priest murdered by the communist security forces. Even his family cradle is here. But things take a darker twist, and having crept past a militia baton and a pair of handcuffs visitors suddenly find themselves in a shadowy room beaming shots of his brutally beaten corpse. Museum of Communist Life ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel. 606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by

www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / in the city the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see! Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary Polish and international art. Ongoing till January 6: Murator’s Collection for MOMA. A collection of best architectural realizations Poland has seen in the last twenty years. Ongoing till January 6: Private Settings - Art After the Internet. This exhibition attempts to answer the question of how rapid technological progress has shaped issues of identity and social interaction. Ongoing till January 6: Maria Bartuszova – Provisional Forms. Having passed away in 2006, this exhibition aims to give this low-profile Slovak sculptor the recognition her work merits. National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing till January 11: Freemasonry. Pro Publico Bono. This exhibition aims to show freemasonry as a lasting element of culture and history and will present its universal language of symbols, allegory and parable. Ongoing till January 18: Orientalism in Polish Art. Paintings, drawings and engravings kept in the spirit of Orientalism, starting with 17th and 18th century Sarmatian portraits, through the works by Jan Christian Kamsetzer, up to the works of 19th century painters.

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

one of its type surviving in Europe – not to mention the personal carriage of Bolesław Bierut (Poland’s post-war leader), the rusting carcass of a 60s train and interwar steam engines straight out of Thomas the Tank Engine.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info about the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Park Miniatur ul. Bracka 25 (Dom Jabłońskich, level -1), pl.miniaturymazowieckie.com Although the park consists of only eight 1:25 scale models of some of the most beautiful and important buildings from Warsaw’s past, the zł. 12 admission is certainly worth it. Brilliant details abound in this Lilliputian world, with helpful English explanations accompanying the models. Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, muzkol.pl Presented in scale model form, in here find hundreds of trains detailing the development of the Polish rail network. Not interested? Then maybe the three model railway villages will stir childhood memories or how about learning about WARS – Polish rail’s buffet division? Outside, stroll around a remarkable collection of beasts outside. These include a 1942 German armored train – apparently the only

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower. Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl An unexpectedly amazing museum that’s been turned around thanks to its ambitious, young staff. Once a dank, dusty space, the reinvention includes ‘the room of one object’, whose single exhibit changes each month. There’s the New Varsovians exhibition, dedicated to the young students who arrived to Warsaw in the 1860s and 70s, and the Wola Laboratory, a multimedia exhibition with a focus on the district. All this new wave gadgetry is to be augmented by real objects on the first floor, not to mention an archive of amateur film – the first such archive in Poland Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Featuring in the collection are works by ToulouseLautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Ongoing till Feb 1: Gregor Schneider – Unsubscribe. This highly regarded contemporary German artist presents Unsubscribe, a project that deals with ‘the question of house’ in both material and symbolic terms.

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The Nominees

To the Polls!

With the curtain pulled on 2014, the Insider’s expert panel convened to judge just which Warsaw restaurants are the best of the best…

The jury is in and the votes have been counted. Once again, the Insider met with local foodies to debate and decide which Warsaw restaurants are inducted into our Best of Warsaw hall of fame. Gathered in a warm corner of La Maison, our editorial team found itself joined by TV chef Joseph Seeletso, as well as bloggers from Restaurantica and Froblog. What happened next was an evening of fervent discussion and secret polling. Has justice been served? Join us next month to find out…

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2014

Best Chef

Wojciech Amaro (Atelier Amaro) Dariusz Barański (Concept 13) Jacek Grochowina (Nolita) Sebastian Wełpa (Ale Wino) Agata Wojda (Opasły Tom PIW)

Best Plate Presentation Atelier Amaro Concept 13 Kitchen Nolita Senses

Best Foreign Chef Andrea Camastra (Senses)

Chanunkan Duangkumma (Naam Thai) Martin Gimenez-Castro (Salto) Lorenzo Robustelli (Delizia) Gonzalo de Salas (Casa Pablo)

Best Casual Dining Bibenda Dom Tapas Bar Kaskrut Kitchen

Best Fine Dining Atelier Amaro Concept 13 L’enfant Terrible Nolita Senses

And Many More Categories!