Parks of Warsaw
Farmers’ Market
page 16
Warsaw
Wisła Bars page 18
Travel: Dolny Śląsk page 22
page 28
August 08 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723
(228)
2015
(VAT 8% included)
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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2015
ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER BALMAIN CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR MAISON MICHEL ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON
Moliera22 Moliera tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com
AUGUST 2015 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber
insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com
a hammer that, in a general demonstration of blind indifference to his fellow man, he likes to play with at six in the morning: bang, bang, bang. Were I to compile a soundtrack of the summer then he’d definitely be in there with his one note instrumental. So I’m glad that we’ve finally rolled into August, a month that traditionally sees Warsaw down tools (literally, I hope in this case) and bugger off to the coast. Hopefully he’ll do the same and meet a shark while he’s there. But while the rest of the capital is packing its bags and leaving en masse I’m staying put. That’s because – and don’t tell your boss I told you so – it’s only work that gets paused for August. The rest of the time it’s up the park or down the Wisła for a night drinking lager. This issue we do both. Also on the agenda over the next hundred-odd pages, we discover a farmers’ market like no other, meet a talking panda and remember the role played by foreigners in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Fingers crossed you enjoy this issue, and see ya’ next time. Don’t work too hard.
INFRONT
Opener 7 News 8 Ask an Expert 10 Refreshments 12 Artist Profile 14
FEATURES Parks 18 Forteca 20 Wisła 24 Uprising 26 Travel 28
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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl
LISTINGS
Restaurants 44 Cafes & Wine Bars 74 Nightlife 78 Shopping 85 Family 88 Health & Beauty 93 In the City 96
REVIEWS
Zorza 32 Krowarzywa 33 Północ Południe 33 Butchery and Wine 34 Varso Vie 36 Soul Kitchen 37
Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2015
PARTNER NEWS
The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 41
INBACK
Classifieds 101 Map 102 Looking Back 104
Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2015 Warsaw Insider.
on the cover Summer means heading down the Wisła – but there’s more to it than the nightlife (p. 22), we’ve got the cultural angle covered as well (p. 14). (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)
PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT
My neighbor has a new toy:
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN DSQUARED2 FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON DOLCE & GABBANA KIDS DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS
this month...
FILM
Kino.Lab Throughout Aug @ CSW, ul. Jazdów 2 International arthouse film and concerts held in the courtyard of Ujazdowski Castle. Related workshops and seminars will be held to go alongside the busy program. For details, see: kinolab.art.pl
FOOD
Targ Śniadaniowy Sat or Sun @ various locations More than the breakfast market it modestly bills itself as, this open air spot is a bit of everything: a food market, a picnic, even a place to get your bike fixed. Locations include Żoliborz, Powiśle, Ursynów and Mokotów. For further info, see: targsniadaniowy.pl
FOOD
Piknik Warszawski Sun, 12:00 @ ul. Wawelska 5 Held each Sunday, weather permitting, the event has tapped into Warsaw’s new mania for ‘doing things together’. While the whole initiative takes meticulous planning, it’s the fun-loving spontaneity that is the most apparent: this is a place of DJs and deckchairs, food stalls and hammocks.
One to Watch William Parker The American free jazz double bassist performs in Pardon, To Tu on what’s set to be an unforgettable night. 5 August, Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16
FESTIVAL
Jazz in the Old Town Every Sat @ Pl. Zamkowy Running each Saturday throughout the summer, the 21st edition of Jazz in the Old Town will bring together a number of international artists to perform for free in the Rynek and Pl. Zamkowy. Attracting audiences of up to 4,000 people, artists booked for August include the Fabrizio Bosso Quartet, Dickbauer Collective and Omar Sosa. For further info, see: jazznastarowce.pl
FILM
Kino Perła Dates vary @ Patio (Kredytowa 9), Pomost 511 (Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej) Organized by the Perła brewery, this nationwide initiative brings film to the masses. Films range in scope and genre though lean towards more underground productions. Admission is free. For info, see: kinoperla.pl
CONCERT
EVENT
Chopin in the Park Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-edged gardens of Łazienki Park.
COMEDY
Every Sun, 20:00 @ Cafe Niespodzianka, ul. Marszałkowska 7 A theatrical English-language performance group with a focus on improvised comedy. For info see: improv.pl
RECREATION
Parkrun
Every Sat, 9:00 @ Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2015
For info see: parkrun.pl
For further info look for them on Facebook.
Improv Sunday’s
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Praga (Park Skaryszewski), Ursynów (park next to Bazantarnia), Żoliborz (Kępa Potocka park), Bródno (Park Bródnowski) Improve your run time by participating in the 5k Parkrun held across four locations each Saturday. Unlike the timed races you get in Warsaw, taking part in this one is free of charge.
Warsaw Uprising Anniversary Aug 1 @ various locations The 71st anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising will be commemorated by way of numerous services, exhibitions, lectures and screenings throughout the month. It’s August 1 that will be the most poignant day, with events including a ceremonial changing of the guard at noon in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the singing of songs banned under the Nazis at 8 p.m. on Pl. Piłsudskiego. For info, see: 1944.pl
CONCERT
HIM
5 August, 19:00 @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Formed in 1991 this Helsinki-based rock act became the first Finnish band
to go gold in the US with their 2006 album Dark Light. Their unique brand of ‘alternative love metal’ has seen them favorably compared to acts as diverse as Depeche Mode, Black Sabbath and The Doors. Tickets from zł. 89 @ livenation.pl
CONCERT
Passenger
Held for the first time in 2004, Warsaw’s annual Singer festival has grown rapidly, establishing itself as one of the Europe’s most anticipated festivals of Jewish culture. Over 200 events are planned and these include screenings, guided walks, discussions and workshops with Próżna and pl. Grzybowski being the focal point. For schedule, see: festiwalsingera.pl
13 August, 20:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Best known for his hit single Let Her Go, Passenger enjoyed an enviable 2014 having been nominated British Single of the Year at the Brits and receiving an Ivor Novello Award for Most Performed Work. This year saw the release of his latest studio album Whispers 2.
CONCERT
Julia Marcell 28 August, 21:00 @ Stacja Mercedes, Al. 3 Maja insider 95x137.pdf 1 Based in Berlin, this Polish singer-song-
writer muddles the boundaries between synth-pop, anti folk and baroque pop to produce a unique sound to showcase her mastery of the keyboard and piano. Ticket information unknown at press time
CONCERT
Guy Sebastian 30 August, 19:00 @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Sebastian caught his break in 2003 when he triumphed in the first series of Australian Idol. Seven platinum albums have followed marking him out as one of the most marketable Ozzie stars out there.
02.07.2015 10:38 Tickets @ eventim.pl
Tickets from zł. 120 @ eventim.pl
SKATING
Night Skating Aug 13 & 27 Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 18km route. Starting at 21:00, usually by the Copernicus Monument on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the mass skate usually concludes at round about 23:00. For details see: nightskating.waw.pl
CONCERT
Awolnation
C
M
16 August, 21:00 @ Proxima, Y ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A Fronted by Aaron Bruno, Awolnation CM combine elements of indie rock, low-fi, MY post hardcore and electronica to create a sound that has won widespread acclaim CY both home and abroad. Tickets from zł. 89 @ eventim.pl
CONCERT
CMY
K
Violetta Live 22 August @ National Stadium, Al. Poniatowskiego 1 Hot on the heels of the hit TV show, the warbling Argentine arrives in Warsaw as part of a global tour cashing in on the success of this phenomenon. Tickets from zł. 129 @ eventim.pl
FESTIVAL
Singer’s 12th Jewish Culture Festival 22nd to 30th August @ various locations
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Restaurant DomPolski
We invite you to our two locations for beautiful garden dining ul. Francuska 11 Ph. 22 616 2432 francuska@restauracjadompolski.pl
www.restauracjadompolski.pl
ul. Belwederska 18 A Ph. 22 840 5060 belwederska@restauracjadompolski.pl
in
What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town PARTICIPATORY BUDGET IN NUMBERS!
51
million złotys
To be shared out from the participatory budget
26
millions złotys
The amount shared from the inaugural participatory budget last year
172,395 People
Voted on varying issues
19,000 Voters
Cast their vote incorrectly
4,265
The top polling project…
LOCAL
ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO
Power to the People!
The people have spoken! News that Pl. Konstytucji will be transformed into an open air food market has been cited as further evidence that Varsovians are reclaiming the city’s public spaces for themselves. Over 2,000 people voted for the Zielona MDM project in a participatory budget poll held in June. The plan envisions a farmers’ market held every Tuesday and Saturday from April till October, with the square earmarked to host 30-40 stalls selling organic produce, fresh fish and other hauls from the lakes, forests and meadows of Poland. Barring any unforeseen calamity, the market will make its debut next year. But that’s not the only example of Warsaw’s grey squares being tamed and humanized. For the duration of summer the space in front of the main entrance of the Palace of Culture has been revolutionized with the addition of a 25 meter communal table and a heap of plants and assorted greenery courtesy of the Miasto i Ogród initiative. Already events have included a gala dinner accompanied by classical music, culinary workshops, gardening classes and food truck meets. Not to be left out, even Praga has got involved. Select weekends have thus far seen Ząbkowska closed off and repurposed for artistic events and general outbreaks of community weirdness.
A cycle path in Praga Południe
2,333 Projects
Submitted for selection
644 Projects
Will be implemented
600
Square meters
The size of the farmers’ market
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inFront
news REAL ESTATE
For(t) Sale
The Tsarist era Fort Szczęśliwice remains unsold with one unnamed broker criticizing the zł. 100 million asking price set by the seller. Owned by Vahap Toy, a Turkish businessman best known for his failed attempt to build a ‘second Las Vegas’ in Białe Podlaski in the 00’s, original plans foresaw the 19th century building being converted into a luxury hotel. But with no buyer coming forward, conservationists fear that the historical structure will soon slip into complete ruin.
NATIONAL
Weather The Storm
One woman died and scores were injured after brutal storms ripped through Poland in mid-July. Fierce gusts and flash floods left tens of thousands without electricity, felled trees and caused widespread disruption across the nation. Prime Minister Ewa Kopacz was left stranded for several hours after her train from Kraków was caught in the storm. In all, the fire brigade reported dealing with over 6,000 emergency calls in the space of 24hrs.
Polish Shorts
Two British schoolkids were lucky to escape with a zł. 1,000 fine after being busted pocketing artefacts they had discovered on the grounds of the Auschwitz Birkernau concentration camp. The two 17-year-olds were caught attempting to steal some buttons, a razor and a piece of spoon. The pair, who were visiting as part of a school trip, had faced eight years jail time. The Russian Foreign Ministry has warned of ‘negative consequences’ after authorities in the town of Nowy Sól sanctioned the destruction of a Red Army war memorial. In a statement made earlier in the year, the local mayor slammed the monument for being ‘ugly, and always dirty with rust leaking out of the abyss of its emptiness’. The saga comes at a time of increasingly frosty Russian / Polish relations.
CYCLING
On a Bicycle Built For Two
Veturilo, the city’s bike share program, has added ten specially designed tandems to its fleet of bikes as part of a summer trial. The initiative has proved a hands down hit, with the bikes being snapped up like gold dust – to find where the nearest is located check out the interactive map at veturilo.waw.pl.
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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2015
PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP KEVIN DEMARIA, WIKICOMMON, ZTM
A runaway cow called Matylda has finally been caught after spending two years on the run. Matylda escaped from a farm in Złoty Stok in 2013, just one day after changing owners, and survived in nearby woodland by raiding neighboring fields. Her owner was finally able to capture the moo-gitive after building up her trust with gifts of apples and cabbage.
inFront
ask an expert becomes colder, the ice melts slower and the drink stays good for longer. You know, putting less ice in the glass doesn’t mean we’ll pour more liquid in it, that’d just mess up the recipe… First rule when creating a cocktail? Keep it interesting and fun. A tasty drink is a tasty drink, but what about how it looks or smells? If you do something no-one has done before then it becomes more than another cocktail… Favorite cocktail story? The Gimlet has a great background. As well as being a kind of hand-held drill used on sailing ships, the Gimlet is one of the oldest naval drinks around. Basically, in the 1860s Mr. Laughlin Rose created a lime cordial now known as Rose’s Lime. It didn’t require refrigeration and this made it invaluable to Royal Navy sailors at risk from contracting scurvy on long voyages. Over time the sailors began adding their daily ration of gin into it, thereby creating the Gimlet in the process. I’ve got a hangover – what are you prescribing? Some sort of exercise and a Red Eye – that’s a Bloody Mary with beer and a whole egg!
Bram D. Berthelsen, the resident cocktail maestro at Karowa 31, takes a break to pour the Insider a wellearned summer drink… Cheers, you’ve fixed us a Polish Garden – what’s that then… Not only is it perfect for the season, it’s something everyone can make at home: elderflower grows wild everywhere, cucumbers are juicier than ever, and we all have a bottle of vodka sitting in the freezer. You just need to put all those to use to make this refreshing summer beverage! Where does Poland stand in the world of cocktails? You need to remember the Polish cocktail industry only really started no more than three years ago, so anything new is exciting. We’re not there yet, but we’re growing up fast and strong! Right now we’re seeing lots of speakeasy bars, intimate dive bars, craft cocktails and molecular mixology. Meanwhile, London and the States are moving more into premixing in labs or big kitchens to create unique flavors. What do Poles hate in cocktails? Aside from a fly? I’d say too much ice. I guess they think they’ll get more alcohol is there is less ice, but actually the more ice the drink has then the better it is – the drink
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POLISH GARDEN
40ml vodka 40ml apple juice 20ml lemon juice 20ml elderflower cordial (or 1 tsp of sugar) 2 slices of cucumber (0.5 cm thick) 8 mint leaves Method: • Add the cucumber to any long glass and muddle. If you don’t have a muddler just use the back of a long wooden spoon to release the juice from the cucumber • Then take the mint in your hand and bruise the leaves by giving them a light clap, and drop them into the glass • Add the rest of the ingredients and fill your glass with ice • Use a long spoon to stir everything together, or just take another glass and pour the liquid back and forth between the two glasses • Finish by garnishing your cocktail with a sprig of mint and a slice of cucumber and enjoy the nectar through a straw!
PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA
Summer Sipping
Thai Thai restaurant, situated on Pl. Teatralny 3, offers only the most authentic tastes of Thailand. All of our exquisite courses are composed by combining traditional flavors with original ingredients. The elegant gold-black interior provides discreet comfort for business meetings, social events and romantic dinners for two. Our chef has created his own unique and original style of cooking, with numerous special ingredients playing an important role in the cuisine:
this includes fish, seafood, coconut milk and aromatic spices such as kaffir leaves, ginger, lemongrass, lime, coriander and chili. Among others our regular guests include representatives from the Thai Embassy in Poland. Warsaw: Pl. Teatralny 2,
tel. 601 81 82 83, info@thaithai. waw.pl, www.thaithai.pl
Sopot: ul. Bohater贸w Monte Cassino 63, tel. (58) 551 11 00, info@thaithai.waw.pl, www.thaithai.pl
inFront
refreshments
Breaking The Ice
Forget the radioactive slurry in Old Town, this summer’s undisputed King of the Snow Cone is Furoszron. We talk to Tomek, one half of the duo behind this seasonal sensation…
• It took three months to find the right machine. At first we were looking at electrical ones from the US before settling on a manual-operated one that we had shipped from Taiwan. We chose manual in the end because we wanted an element of ‘show’. • Our name is simple: Fura means ‘cart’ in Polish, as in those carts you see getting pulled by horses. In slang terms though, you’ll also hear the saying ‘super fura’ which means a really awesome car. As for Szron, that means ‘frost’. • You can’t use regular ice cubes with our machine, so we get ours custom-made by a Wrocław ice manufacturer that produces those big blocks used for ice sculptures. Their production process is complex but guarantees the best quality ice.
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• We produce two of the syrups ourselves: coffee and lemon/lime. We rely on small family enterprises for ‘Polish flavors’ like cherry, strawberry and blueberry. They don’t use chemicals, just traditional syrup-making methods: water, a bit of sugar and then a whole lot of fruit. Of course, we have to look abroad for our more exotic flavors, but even so we maintain quality. For instance, our mango syrup consists of nearly 100% Sri Lankan fruit. • We decided on a little electric van because we wanted to set-up in places where you wouldn’t usually find food trucks: down small boulevards, or even indoors. It took us a couple of months to find this vehicle and it was bright orange when we first picked it up in Częstochowa – it’s built by a Dutch firm and we’re told it was once used as a delivery van in some German factory. • It’s not a full-time job this – we’ve got real lives during the week! Daniel is the purchase manager for a big Warsaw hotel, while I’m a PR specialist in the IT field. To pinpoint Furoszron’s latest location, check their whereabouts on: facebook.com/furoszron
PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT
• My business partner Daniel discovered these shaved ice drinks while on holiday in Thailand about five years ago – he was obsessed with them, drinking them every day. He was determined to introduce them to Poland. Myself, I’d been thinking about starting my own food truck business. One night last year we figured, well, why not merge the two ideas. That’s how Furoszron began.
inFront
artist profile
IN PROFILE
•My material is based around two things: nature and artificiality. I combine the two so that people view objects differently. For instance, you wouldn’t normally notice a dead tree would you, but the moment I paint it blue then you will. •I’d say my most important work was ‘A Piece of Manhattan Sky’. The installation was a tall, noise insulated tower close to Ground Zero. You’d enter and stare up at the sky above. The sky seemed so incredibly blue people thought it was a projection. •I’m hoping to get permission to create a work on pl. Defilad this year. I want to get the public involved in a huge painting depicting heaven above Warsaw. •Warsaw doesn’t have a huge deal of public art so I really like the palm tree. It’s become part of the city and gives the center energy. •I’m not happy when my works are vandalized, but I understand that’s part of life. I remember when the Angels project first came about it was getting damaged every month. But slowly people have accepted it and come to care for it.
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Quotes from the artist’s mouth from top: “I wanted to take the paper boats of my childhood,” says Sulek, “and make them bigger before placing them in a different reality.” “My work juxtaposes nature against artificiality.” The Miasto Aniołów project presents a group of cheerful angels standing at the mouth of Ząbkowska. “They aren’t meant to be religious,” says Sulek, “they’re actually the guardian angels I once dreamt about when I was five.”
PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE ARTIST
Marek Sulek
inFront
parks
As Green As Grass Art
Królikarnia (E11)
Note the set of rules at the entrance that give permission to fly kites, read books and hug statues. Festooned with sculptures, highlights include a work by Maria Rostowska depicting a dog with spirally eyes. Kids, meanwhile, are actively encouraged to crack the chalk out and draw on the paving.
Boules
Krasiński (C2)
Here’s what zł. 15 million does: transform a previously overgrown tangle of trees into one of Warsaw’s top parks. Freshly preened, weekends draw groups of friends armed with picnics and their own set of boules. Bottles of wine find their way into the hampers, and while not officially sanctioned, a blind eye is turned.
Dog Walking
Pole Mokotowskie (B/C8)
Bars, jogging trails, bike hire all conspire to make Pole Mokotowskie “the people’s park”. But it ain’t
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just for humans. This park loves dogs, so much so there’s a monument of a smiling Golden Retriever called Lokat. He’s there to remind people that animals need love! Each September the park also hosts the Dog Chow Disc Cup.
Grill
Kępa Potocka
The curving canal-side pathway is popular with roller bladers, cyclists and joggers. When the sensible stuff is done head to the U Araba grill bar to watch sundown over sausages and beer – but be warned, in summer expect a right barbe-queue.
Jogging
Park Śmigłego-Rydza (F6)
Laid out over war rubble, this former industrial belt was remodeled by landscape artist Alina Scholtze and her team of little helpers: over 15,000 school children volunteered to create this space. Wide pedestrian boulevards and flat massive spaces (and the option of a few uphill ascents) make it a favorite with spandex-covered joggers.
ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCPET BOTTOM LEFT BY SHUTTERSTOCK
Parks dominate Warsaw: with over 20,000 hectares of greenery to explore, the Insider edits down your choice to twelve of the best…
green strip between ul. Chopina and Al. Róż is a charming oasis of sunken gardens and winding paths: its name, Little Switzerland, is completely appropriate. Snatch a shaded spot near the fountain and ornamental turtles and away you go with Chapter 1.
Romance
Ujazdowski (E6)
Perfectly clipped and landscaped, this 19th century jewel is filled with decorative details and quaint little nooks. Skip across the rock pool before heading to the fancy stone bridge. It’s now tradition for couples to leave engraved lovelocks on the railings. If your single, you will be stopped by lovebirds wanting their pic taken.
Sunset
BUW Garden (E2)
“Distinguished by its colors, scents and moods,” this one hectare rooftop garden is breathtaking. It’s got the lot, from ducks and water features to sloping walkways and leafy alcoves. Visit on a balmy evening when scarlet skies settle over the Wisła – it’s about the only time when a selfiestick is acceptable.
Water
Skaryszewski (H3)
Just Because
Saski Gardens (C/D3)
If you enjoy pageantry then the noon changing of the guard at the Tomb of Unknown Soldier is unmissable. At other times, delve deep into the gardens to walk shoulder to shoulder with mythical figures celebrated in stone.
There’s intrigue aplenty at Skaryszewski: a cosmic-looking, rocket-shaped shrine, a commemorative boulder honoring an RAF plane shot down during WWII and a memorial namechecking the six Poles who died on 9/11. Away from what to see there’s also plenty to do: for instance, renting a paddle boat and racing your mates.
Legends
Morskie Oko (E9)
Peppered with Moorish-style towers and neoGothic details, it’s said that a Red Army tank now sits at the bottom of one of the lakes at Morskie Oko. Elsewhere, the building at No. 5 is Warsaw’s most haunted: at night a girl shot by a German sniper appears on the balcony pining for her insurgent lover.
Music
Łazienki (F5)
The only time the park police won’t shoot on sight for your failure to ‘KEEP OFF THE GRASS’ is Sunday. That’s when hundreds, sometimes thousands, gather around the Chopin monument to sit on deckchairs and listen to piano recitals at noon and 4 p.m. After, head further into the park for close encounters with peacocks and squirrels.
Reading
Dolina Szwajcarska (E6)
Reduced to its current size after the war, the little
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17
MARKETS
Cornering The Market
Amid the shift towards natural produce, one famers’ market stands above all the rest: the Insider visits the Kręgliccy family’s fortress of food… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
I
f there’s one thing I used to fear it was the mid-week food shop: those faceless aisles, the plastic produce, the elevator music, the whole ‘have you got the right change’ bit at the till. I’d leave feeling like I’d just been put through a meat grinder. No more. The farmers’ market concept has gained traction in Warsaw, providing a valid alternative to the spirit numbing supermarket. And my favorite? That’ll be Forteca Kręgliccy just to the north of the New Town. Shame on me, but I’ve only just discovered it. In reality, it’s been functioning for four years – originally as a seasonal venture, but now as a year-round operation that’s open each Wednesday. Set inside a Tsarist fortification, the red brick bastion that houses the market was originally completed in 1854 – not to fulfill any defensive purposes, but more as a sign of dominance over the local population. Ostensibly, this was an Imperial Russian reminder to the Poles as to who the real boss in town was.
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It survived the ’44 Warsaw Uprising (though it took a few nicks from the Luftwaffe during the 1939 Siege of Warsaw), and after the war passed back into the hands of the Polish army. Then, in 2000, a new page in its history was written after it was snapped up by Marcin, Piotr and Agnieszka of the Kręgliccy family. “There was no business plan,” says Piotr, “buying this place was gut instinct.” The task in front of them was immense. “The military had basically been using it as a rubbish tip,” he remembers, “and it took 120 ten ton trucks to remove the trash and make the space usable.” It was a scene of complete disrepair. “The roof was completely overgrown, so we sent a herd of goats up on it to act as our lawnmowers.” There were surprises, as well: “you’d be walking down the tunnels and stepping over living people. I’m not going to say they were used for black masses, but some of the graffiti we found in the chambers was certainly weird.” Other sections of the fort were flooded so badly that a diver was recruited to explore the complex. “It was crazy,” says Piotr, “the water was covered in a layer of calcium so when the diver went under it cracked like caramel.” Astonishingly, this exploration revealed passages that had never been previously mapped. While the restoration of the fort remains an ongoing process, enough has been cleared and renovated to see it regularly rented for blue ribbon events. The jewel in the crown, however, is the weekly market. “The idea with that,” says Agnieszka, “was to support farmers. Of course, in winter the focus falls on importers, but it’s the farmers who I think of as our most precious vendors. I’m interested in real producers, people who’re doing something with their product. If you’ve got milk, fine, but what I want is people who’re doing something with it: making cheese, cheesecake, yogurt, etc.” While organic isn’t an obligation, it’s certainly promoted: the stall holders, approximately ten of which are permanent, all proudly display certificates and stamps attesting to their methods. With such a high caliber of produce it’s no revelation to find yourself in good company: chef spotting becomes a sport here. On our visit we sight Robert Trzópek, one of Poland’s big culinary names, as well as Daniel Pawełek, proprietor of Butchery & Wine. Cunningly, we hide behind a pillar to spy what they’re up to but are caught red handed by Agnieszka. “What I’d love to see,” she says smiling, “is a place like this in every Warsaw district.” That’s a wish that could well yet materialize, but could anywhere else be as unique as Forteca? Forteca Kregliccy
ul. Zakroczymska 12, open Weds 8:00-16:00, kregliccy.eu/forteca
“So the bees travel around Poland looking for pollen, and I travel around Poland looking for the bees.” When he’s not chasing bees in his Land Rover, find Darek vending pots of honey and trading anecdotes: “did you know,” he asks, “beeswax was the original chewing gum of the ancients – here you go, try some.”
Occupying center stage of Forteca is Pan Ziółko: if you don’t know who to look for, he’s the bloke surrounded by big crates of greens. Much sought after by the restauranteurs who descend on Forteca, he’s become something of a legend – some even go as far as to call him Poland’s first celebrity farmer!
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MARKETS
The village of Dąbrówki is where you’ll usually find Tomek, the creator of Poland’s original organic mushroom farm. Using horse manure, natural gypsum and straw, the Portobello and oyster mushrooms are cultivated all year round in Tomek’s basement using a 41 day process. Check the pates, not to mention the ready-to-eat grilled mushrooms. Magic!
Help, I’ve been kidnapped! “Even if you don’t like carp,” says Agnieszka Kręglicka, “I’m going to force you to eat this.” Two minutes later we’re going back for more. Turning all preconceptions about this ugly fish on its head are Dorota and Władek of Gospodarstwo Rolne Jastrzębie Kąty. Their spicy ‘Greek carp’ is especially fab.
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Life is just a bowl of cherries, certainly to the folk at Cherry Tree. Jams, syrups, juices and sangria all come straight from the family cherry orchard out in Wielkopolska. They say: “we cultivate our cherries in a biodynamic way, in accordance with the rhythm of nature and the phases of the moon.” Everyone else says: delicious!
In business since 2008, Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów use Jersey cows to produce mild, mild cheddar and a line of fantastic fruit flavored yogurts. “It’s not complicated,” says Pani Ania, “we just make the yogurt and then whack in the syrup.” Don’t be fooled by her modesty, these are the best yogurts you might ever taste.
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NIGHTLIFE WISﾅ、
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THE LOONY LEFT… SIDE OF THE WISŁA
Next stop: chaos. Follow the trail of bars and barges that have woken up Warsaw’s Wisła… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT
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NIGHTLIFE WISŁA
U
ndeveloped say some. A missed opportunity say others. And true, benchmarked against other capitals then Warsaw’s river isn’t up to much. A murky shade of dirty brown, the ‘love at first sight’ impact of the Seine is manifestly absent. Honestly though, you’re in the wrong city for romance anyway: Warsaw’s river is all about the party. To think, they used to caution people about visiting the Wisła. In the early 00’s the riverside bars acted as flypaper for thugs; if I remember rightly, rock bottom was hit when a headless corpse was discovered by one. Talk about a night gone awry. Times have changed and today both riverbanks have become the thumping heart of summer nightlife. Not that this is immediately clear. Arriving to Pomost 511 we’re met by a Christian folk band practicing on stage. The pace is slow and the audience looks sedated. “It’ll get better,” I promise. And soon it does. For a kilometer or so the left bank is packed with drink stops and while many are much of a muchness, sponsored by corpo breweries and radio stations, others stand apart. We bound across a gangplank and onto a barge requisitioned by Sen Pszczoły. A funky uncle behind the DJ decks drops Abba remixes amid a design tricked out with bunk beds possibly salvaged from an asylum. Moving on, we collide with a torrent of humanity. Night has fallen and so too inhibitions. Everyone, it appears, has got drunk rather quickly. Basslines from neighboring bars blur together creating one massive, undulating wall of party din. Even the food trucks feel frenetic: the Gringo wagon rattles with such intensity we fear it might bounce into the river.
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Barka, while packed, offers relative respite. The crowd, sipping on craft beer and long cocktails, is all micro-skirted pussycats and twinkling smiles. For the first time we don’t feel like we’ve entered a frat house drinking competition. The veneer of civilization though shatters with a trip to the toilet cabins: I stagger out gasping. The momentary horror subsides and we’re sucked back into the havoc. Returning to Pomost, and its neighbor Cuda Nad Wisłą, and we find the evening has reached the point of annihilation: three lads are trying to untie a floating bar from its moorings but succeed only in falling over and somehow injuring themselves. Nobody notices, nobody cares – their bitter curses are lost on a careless wave of whoops and laughter. The party has just begun.
Clockwise from top: no-man’s land between Cud Nad Wisłą and Pomost 511; Mamma Mia! Sen Pszczoły goes nuts for Abba; BarKa warms up; Gringo keeps the heat on; locals raise the pulse; and Kurort swings into action…
LEFT BANK BARS Cud Nad Wisłą
facebook.com/CudownieNadWisla
Pomost 511
facebook.com/Pomost511
Kurort
facebook.com/kurortnadwisla
Hocki Klocki
facebook.com/HockiKlockinadWisla
Niedorzeczni 500od1500 facebook.com/Niedorzeczni
Sen Pszczoły
facebook.com/SenPszczoly
Barka
facebook.com/planbarka
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HISTORY WARSAW UPRISING
Foreigners on the Battlefield
With August 1st marking the anniversary of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, we take a deeper look at the role foreigners played in the insurgency… BY STUART DOWELL ILLUSTRATION MICHAŁ MISZKURKA
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lthough often thought of as a straight battle between the Poles and the Germans, there were in fact a lot of foreigners who fought in the Warsaw Uprising. These included Slovaks, who had their own Home Army unit and their own uniforms, Georgians who had escaped from Nazi prisoner of war camps, Czechs, Armenians, Azerbaijanis and Jews from countries including Greece, France and Romania who had been liberated from the Gęsiówka concentration camp on the fifth day of fighting. The Italian restaurant owners of Marszałkowska did there bit by providing meals for the fighters, and there was even a German Luftwaffe officer, Willy Lampe, who switched sides because he was from Alsace and didn’t consider himself German. Among this foreign legion, two characters stand out. The first is August Agbola O’Browne, the only known African to fight in the uprising. Born in 1895 in Nigeria, he found work aboard a British ship and sailed for England, from where, in 1922, he left for Gdańsk, before finally settling in Warsaw. Before the war he worked as a dancer and a jazz musician and would often be seen strolling along Marszałkowska, always in a dapper suit and a fedora hat. When the Germans laid siege to Warsaw in September 1939, considering himself to be a fully-fledged Pole for better or for worse, he reported as a volunteer to defend the city. Not much is known about how Agbola survived during the occupation in the face of Nazi racism, but there are reports that he made a living by teaching English and trading electronic equipment. During the uprising he fought under the nom de guerre Ali in the ‘Iwo’ Battalion, mainly in the south of Śródmieście. Details of Agbola’s service are scare, but there are corroborated accounts of a black soldier working at the battalion HQ, probably in the communication section. It is not known what happened to Agbola immediately after the capitulation and the banishment of all the citizens of Warsaw from the city. He turns up again in the records in 1949 when he joined a combatants’ association and revealed his involvement in the Home Army and the uprising, a revelation that at the time could have led to arrest and even death. In the late 1940s and early 1950s he again played in bands in Warsaw’s clubs and restaurants. He married for a second time in 1953 and had one daughter in addition
When the Germans laid siege to Warsaw in September 1939, considering himself to be a fully-fledged Pole for better or for worse, he reported as a volunteer to defend the city...
to two sons from a previous marriage. In 1958 he left Poland with his family and went to the UK, where he died in 1976. Our second foreign insurgent is John Ward, a British airman who was shot down over Luxembourg on the first day of the Battle of France and taken into German captivity. After being sent to a POW camp in Leszno, the 19-year old radio operator seized his chance and escaped. He was caught a few days later but managed to escape again the very same day. After much night-time meandering and assistance from local Poles, he made contact with the Home Army and was placed in Warsaw to train young radio operators and to listen to radio traffic in English and German (in which he was fluent). When the uprising began, Ward moved to the Information and Propaganda Office and was the only British officer to send information back home about what was happening in the city. In a report to The Times on August 23rd he wrote: “Today in Warsaw a battle is going on that I think is very difficult for the British nation to understand. It is a battle that is being carried on as much by the civil population as by the A. K., the troops of the Polish Home Army. It is total warfare.” On the same day, he wrote to the air minister Sir Archibald Sinclair: “Sir, the situation here in Warsaw is critical. We have not sufficient weapons and ammunition to carry out any offensive operations, and hardly enough for defence. In a few days’ time we shall not even have enough for defence. Losses are colossal.” When the fighting in Warsaw stopped he moved south and fought with the Home Army near Kielce against the Germans. Later, on advice from London, he handed himself over to the Soviets, who interrogated him at length before finally sending him to Odessa, where he boarded a ship bound for Malta and then took a plane home to London, completing a 5-year odyssey. After the war, he worked for MI5 in diplomatic missions around the world. He never spoke openly about his experiences in Poland and never wrote his memoires. In their darkest hour, when they felt most alone and forgotten, the role of foreigners fighting shoulder to shoulder with Poles on the barricades and in the rubble must have given succour to the men and women of Warsaw in 1944. www.warsawinsider.pl
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TRAVEL LOWER SILESIA
Beyond Belief
The Insider finds reality suspended as it explores the far flung corners of deepest Dolny Śląsk… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT
P
ushed to name my favorite trip last year I’d umm and ah and settle for Książ. Back then, last April to be precise, it had largely been deserted. Embarking on an evening, lamplit tour of this castle, our guide had taken us down secret passages while regaling us with tales of knights and Nazis and wailing maidens. But this is not how I remember it. I am standing on the very spot where, fourteen months ago, an actor had interrupted our midnight ramble by leaping from the shadows with a burning sword. Such was my fright, I suspect I was clinically dead for about 30 seconds. In contrast, today I am talking to a bloke dressed as a panda. As I spark a cigarette we are joined by an elf princess.
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Zamek Książ, as you might gather, is not the standard castle experience. In terms of size it ranks behind Malbork and Wawel as the largest in the country, but its location – in the darkest depths of Lower Silesia – means it works that much harder to drum up the numbers. Mid-August, for instance, presents the Third Festival of Lower Silesian Mysteries. On the weekend we’re on-site, it’s the turn of the First Festival of Games: it’s for this reason the walled gardens are alive with pixies, wizards and servants of Sauron. Perhaps, we speculate, it’ll be more normal inside. Is it hell. Presenting itself in a cascade of Baroque bling, the Maximillian Hall is often cited as the castle’s business card and
principal reception room. Kaisers’ have passed through here, as too did Churchill. Now it’s Skywalker’s turn. Temporarily teeming with Star Wars props, enthusiasts roam about with lightsabers and rocket packs. As we explore further, whole floors have been mandated for gaming: bearded techies sit hunched over Spectrum’s while caped devotees play complex board games involving goblins and orcs. My girlfriend looks like she’s about to have a panic attack. Extracting ourselves from the gentle sense of madness we leave the castle grounds to see in sunset at a nearby vantage point. It’s not far, but in this heat the rough wooded trail stretches without end. Our eventual reward is one of Poland’s most iconic views. Under a soft cinnamon sky the castle appears both moody and mystical and as the colors slowly change we sit in silence in awe of the show. Built for Bolko I in 1298, the castle is unique for the number of embellishments that have bestowed it with a jumble of styles. Such updates continued well into the 20th century. Seized by the Nazis, Książ was earmarked as a potential base for Hitler, and a series of tunnels were carved underneath. While little documentation exists, it’s thought that one was constructed to apparently serve as an air raid shelter. While this is open to visitors, others aren’t. These formed part of a wider network of mysterious tunnels built for Project Riese, an impossibly murky scheme that has resulted in the region’s mountain ranges being riddled with concrete
complexes whose use has never been adequately explained: some claim these underworld mines (three of which can be accessed) were for secret laboratories and possibly nuclear weapons, others to horde Nazi loot. The truth is, no-one knows.
W
e consider the heavy weight of history back at our hotel, the Przy Oślej Bramie. Situated in one of the castle’s outbuildings it’s a picture of antiquated charm: a stuffed goat in reception, a chessboard in the hall, and rooms that are vastly disparate in size and facilities – I’ve hit the jackpot and have been upgraded to a generous apartment with a groovy-looking tub. The photographer is consigned to more moderate quarters, and we console him at a bar that comes with the added perk of being open around-the-clock. While we can just about live with the lack of artisan beer, what drives us nuts is the background of Ibiza dance tracks. “You have to turn it off,” we plead with the girl who has pulled the nightshift. Turns out, it’s a force of habit. She joins us for drinks and is full of terrifying stories of things that go bump in the night. “I shouldn’t tell you this,” she confides, “but when I’m alone here I hear all sorts of things – voices, screaming…” Buoyed by the bland offerings of Poland’s macro breweries, the photographer and myself swagger out into the dark to conduct investigations. The sky is pin pricked with stars but on ground level it’s all spooky blackness. As daft as it sounds, we can’t shake the lingering suspicion that the eyes of the gargoyles are following our footsteps. Choosing to skirt the perimeter, we are surprised to see a light up ahead and a flurry of activity. A van stands by an access tunnel hewn into the rock face at the bottom of the castle and half a dozen workers are busy lugging boxes of equipment into the truck. It’s almost like a scene from Smugglers Cove. We approach them but are resolutely ignored; we have become invisible. With no-one reprimanding us we continue into the shaft, disappearing further and further into the bowels of the zamek. Inadvertently we have entered the depths of an ancient castle and the thrill is incredible. www.warsawinsider.pl
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TRAVEL LOWER SILESIA
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he next day brings sunlight and sobriety. We’re still buzzing from the night before and have acquired an appetite for adventure. Of all the residents of Książ, it is the castle’s association with Princess Daisy that is most celebrated locally. Born into British aristocracy, she married Hans Heinrich XV in 1891 and moved into the family pad: Książ. Known for her outstanding beauty, not to mention her trademark six meter pearl necklace, she remained in the castle long after the couple divorced and garnered a reputation for her tireless community work and charitable disposition. With the property confiscated by the Nazis, she was shunted to the nearby town of Wałbrzych (then the German town of Waldenburg) where she is said to have died in poverty. It’s a story that demands a closer look. To meet this end the hotel recruits the local taxi driver, Andy, a jovial fellow with a sparkling black Merc and a good grasp of English. He knows exactly where to take us, and en-route gives us the background of this decrepit looking town. It’s not a happy story. Once a thriving industrial city, the collapse of communism bought an end to the subsidies – the local economy imploded. The new financial reality forced him from his job as a science teacher and he’s been driving a cab ever since then. The twist in fortunes hasn’t affected his bubbly nature, and he’s quick to point out he’s one of the luckier ones. Blighted by unemployment, the town now has a declining population and the unmistakable air of loss and resignation. We bid farewell to Andy at ul. Moniuszko 45, Daisy’s last address. She spent her final days here cared for by a loyal English maid named Dorothy Crowther and was occasionally visited by a local music student who played her Chopin nocturnes. She passed away in 1943 and was buried in the Książ crypt along with her necklace. With the Red Army approaching, her remains were reburied at a secret grave in 1945, a location that eludes macabre treasure hunters to this very day. Long since boarded up, the rambling mansion stands derelict but defiant, a haunting epitaph to a fallen Princess.
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Slightly despondent, we make the walk into Wałbrzych town center. Daisy’s villa is not the only one that has gone to seed, and we pass mansion after mansion that have fallen into ruin. It’s a world removed from touristy Poland: down twisting, cobbled alleys we decipher pre-war German lettering on peeling plaster walls. At last, we’re on the Rynek, a smart square that benefited from an early bout of EU funding. Finding a bar, we idle away the evening over beers and kebabs. We are alone and the town is ours. As the day closes we are struck by the surreal, forlorn atmosphere that’s as eerie as it is enchanting: we are in a part of Poland that even the Poles have forgotten…
ESSENTIALS
Książ Castle www.en.ksiaz.walbrzych.pl Przy Oślej Bramie www.en.zamek-ksiaz.com.pl Wałbrzych cit.walbrzych.pl Festival of Lower Silesian Mysteries festiwaltajemnic.pl Princess Daisy daisyvonpless.wordpress.com Project Riese www.riese.krzyzowa.org.pl
Warsaw Wałbrzych
GETTING THERE
Wałbrzych is 435 km south west of Warsaw. If you don’t have a car, then Wrocław is the sensible point to either fly or rail to. From there, Wałbrzych is a one hour train journey. Książ Castle is 8 km north from there. If you need a taxi, use Andy! (tel. 602 713 043).
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LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 44 CAFES & WINE BARS 74 NIGHTLIFE 78 SHOPPING 85 FAMILY 88 HEALTH & BEAUTY 93 IN THE CITY 96
Seasonal Sensation
Weles, Syreni Śpiew, Stacja Mercedes, Warszawa Powiśle – what do that lot have in common? Aside from being successful and trendy they’re also owned by the same people. Now though, Norbert, Bartek and Hubert have a new project to add to their portfolio. Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work. But with even the sun sweating this summer, do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. Zorza
PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
ul. Żurawia 6/12, www.zorzabistro.pl
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REVIEWS From North to South Bagatela discovers soul and style…
r
ecently a friend asked me where my favorite places are for an outdoor lunch. Without hesitation I immediately thought of a new spot that’s found its way to the top of my restaurant radar: Północ Południe. Sat by Plac Unii a few doors down from Być Może, the name literally translates to North and South. For all I know it could be named after the 80s mini-series starring Patrick Swayze, but my guess is that it has something to do with Śródmieście to the north and Mokotów to the south. Either way, it is good and good. Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, but something I always love to gander at if table talk is stilted; there’s also a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. Recently – and greedily – I returned for the bób (broad bean) risotto. My first instinct was that a dish this good couldn’t possibly be zł. 19. But this was no mistake – generally speaking, food is affordable here and the kick to start you off are the sliders. Don’t think these are old-hat and boring: they don’t just consist of beef, but also salmon, egg and chicken. Order them three or five at a time. And how’s about this for attention to detail: even your beer glass comes chilled (Czech Primator in bottles). With this heat, I’d endure the armpit smell of a tram to quench my thirst here. (KD)
Północ Południe
ul. Bagatela 10, facebook.com/PolnocZPoludniem
i
Double Patty
Vegan enteprise opens second location
t is almost routine that when I work late and don’t feel like shopping for dinner that I go to Krowarzywa for a cieciorex veggie burger (chickpeas, parsley, pepper and herbs). After a day of frayed nerves having something wholesome and vegan is the trick to make me feel rejuvenated. If you’re unfamiliar with Krowarzywa, they’re the ones who inspired all the vegan restaurants popping up all over town. Founded in March 2013 by two friends, Krzysztof and Hubert, the aspiration was to create an affordable, healthy and ethical alternative to the fastfood in your typical chain. The public’s response has been tremendous, to the point where a second restaurant was required. Seeing that I was at the new location, I decided to try something new – I used to love seitan tacos back in NYC, so figured the seitanex would be a good idea. As at their other place, there is a bit of a wait for their small bagel toaster to snap into action, something I found a little odd: they upgrade locations only to stick to the same small ovens that hamper the original. And God it can get hot. Fortunately, the Smufis is as good a way as any to cool down. It’s nothing to do with the Smurfs, rather a smoothie concoction incorporating orange, banana, ginger and parsley. It’s excellent, and I draw the same conclusions with the wheat meat seitanex. Which is when it dawns on me: as I sit watching a long-boarding squatter-type pulling bean sprouts from his teeth I realize that Krowarzywa don’t need air-con and a huge oven, that their message of environmental responsibility goes beyond just their food. Or maybe I’m wrong. Either way I still believe they think outside the bun.. (KD) Krowarzywa
ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, krowarzywa.pl
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REVIEWS
A Butcher’s Girl
s
Big Bertha makes a splash at Butchery & Wine
he’s a Sarf London girl is Bertha, a bit on the stout and chunky side but smokin’ hot nonetheless (at times, 500 degrees hot). And woah, you ought to see this beauty go in the kitchen. Conceived down a Wimbledon side street, the Bertha oven is revolutionizing the way steak is cooked. Wood-fired, she’s won rave reviews for her knack of retaining moisture, her versatility, not to mention her all-round superiority to the more commonly-lauded Josper oven. Now Bertha’s turned up in Poland, more specifically, in Butchery & Wine – and she’s not taking any prisoners.
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The T-Bone we’ve ordered lands with one big thump: an inch thick, and served on a wooden board, it’s a robust piece of animal that’s full of bold, brawny tastes. The char is consistent all over, while the first cut confirms Bertha’s ability to preserve all the juices. As the knife plunges in, a warm red center reveals itself in all of its flawless glory. Tremendous. Golden fat cut chips, a pot of snow peas and broad beans, and a hefty serving of bull’s heart tomatoes cap what is the most immensely satisfying lunch you’d ever wish to have. There’s a simplistic beauty to it all that’s achieved by matching quality ingredients to culinary
PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
know-how. No tricks, no jazz, just first rate cooking (and a helping hand from a girl called Bertha). If that was all there was to Butchery & Wine then you’d leave a very happy person. As it turns out, there’s more. Starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor and subtle spicy snap. There’s crabmeat with mayonnaise and avocado, crunchy eggplant tempura, and then the pork crackling. Served on a smoked cod mousse, with pinches of black caviar on top, these crispy little chaps pop like fire bangers in the mouth. Moreish is a word invented for these very moments. And let’s not forget the dessert that bookends the experience: fresh raspberries layered between biscuit and cream before being presented in a tall glass. If there is one problem with Butchery then, traditionally speaking, it’s been that it’s bloody hard to get a table. If not entirely solved (it remains as popular now as it was on Day 1), the headache has at least been alleviated by the opening of a second unit across the road. A thin, long space by nature,
floor-to-ceiling windows flip open on warmer days affording the sensation of continental, pavement dining. Better yet, a small bar has been added by the entrance, allowing diners the chance to sip classic cocktails while either awaiting their seat or conducting a post-mortem review of the dinner that’s been. In London you wouldn’t bat an eyelid at the sight of a properly manned restaurant bar, but in Warsaw it remains a rare and lofty sight – something to savor and take advantage of. With the great and glam gliding past within touching distance, it’s at this point the penny drops. It’s not just the food that marks out Butchery, but the whole experience. It’s a place of energy and ambition, a place in which to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that mixes the new with the classic. Most of all, it’s a place that makes you feel ruddy good. (AW) Butchery & Wine
ul. Żurawia 22, butcheryandwine.pl www.warsawinsider.pl
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REVIEWS
A Square Deal
Pl. Konstytucji gets the restaurant it’s been crying out for…
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t
hose ‘Then & Now’ photo albums, I’m a huge fan. Who isn’t? So in one such collection on Facebook you’ve got Pl. Konstytucji. The ‘Then’ bit shows this square as it was, back in nineteen fifty something. There’s no cars, no billboards, and the trams look funny, but other than that you ask has it really changed that much. View it through sepia goggles and the Konstytucji of today isn’t all that different. If it’s real change you want to see around these parts, you have to explore the food angle. Till recently dinner at No. 2 meant pierogi ordered in a sterile, waiting room environment. It wasn’t bad (if anything, it was actually pretty good), but you left feeling like you’d eaten not in a flourishing capital, rather in some canteen behind Tarnobrzeg train station: get me outta’ here, now! Over to the new tenants then, Varso Vie. Firstly, it’s a place you enjoy just being in. There’s a big dining room up top, yet despite the concrete color palette it retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus. You feel life. As it turns out, we choose one of the two anterooms, settling inside a white chamber decorated with the erotic photography of Szymon Brodziak. His works are a cursory diversion for its all eyes on the table once starters roll out: wafer thin slices of cured venison alongside powdered juniper, drops of honey gel and cubes of beetroot; duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; and beef tartar. Living in Poland, tartar is a dish I’ve learned to love, and this one is a champion. Smoked with cherry wood, and with a runny quail egg perched
on top, it’s a pleasure mashing it all up with sides like bean sprouts, chives, capers and shallots. I give a look to the rest of the table that says, ‘you dare take any of this and I’ll stab ya’ with a fork’. I find the tripe soup that follows less successful, but that’s largely down to an ongoing war with tripe that dates back to boarding school: I have an unforgiving memory, let’s leave it at that. My Polish colleague is less squeamish, singing the praises of the offal meatballs that float in the broth. For mains the duck confit is a solid performer, however, our table agrees that the prizewinner this round is the Baltic trout. It’s the combination that does it: a beautiful piece of fish on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint. Finishing, the three of us are left scrapping over two desserts. The meringue mousse with passion fruit and blood orange jelly is coveted by all, and before I know it I’m left with the crumbs. I can tell I’ve missed out on something great, but my vengeance is fast: next is a tower of mascarpone cheese layered on tulle tarragon chocolate with caramel foam. I make it my own. It’s perfect gooey pleasure, its richness balanced out by the neutrality of the milk ice cream: the kind of finale that warrants applause. There have been occasions where I’ve let a strong finish destabilize my opinion and cloud what’s come before. Not this time. Whether you go back to front or front to back, chef Waldemar Wiatr’s menu does little wrong; and a hell of a lot right. (AW) Varso Vie
Pl. Konstytcuji 2, tel. 22 622 2472, varso-vie.pl www.warsawinsider.pl
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REVIEWS
Heart & Soul
a
It’s a return to nature at Soul Kitchen Bistro...
s long as I can remember, unexpected smells have gushed from Nowogrodzka. Usually, these were foul and wicked odors pouring from dark courtyards and murky recesses – nose pinching moments came every few yards. No more. Central Warsaw is thick with streets that have reinvented themselves in recent times, but few have done so as dramatically as this one. Sure there’s still the occasional blast of mildew and waste, but in general few streets feel so symbolic of ‘today’ as Nowogrodzka. If you’re in the food and drinks racket, it’s becoming one of the best addresses if you want to make an impact. Not a bad place, all said and done, for a restaurant looking to reestablish themselves. Forced to close their spot by the Polytechnic last summer, Soul Kitchen have returned to new premises right in the eye of Nowogrodzka’s storm. And a nice place it is. If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. Contrasts become even more pronounced when considering the prices. While I can’t remember the old menu by heart, it’s safe to say mains came to pretty much twice, even thrice the zł. 25ish you’ll shell out today. No need to track back, you heard right the first time – mains lurk around the 25 mark, while starters don’t go far upwards of 15. It’s such a good deal you immediately scan the menu looking for the small print. But there isn’t any. It really is that cheap
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(prices will rise gradually I’m warned), and the food really is that good. For starters we go for a pick-and-mix approach and share a bowl of curly vegetable crisps that come with strong notes of parsley: proper crunchy goodness. There’s halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. Moving along, mains drop some massive artillery rounds: the braised beef elevates the meal to greatness, with the meat all but melting on the palette. There’s zander, skin expertly crisped, that comes carefully stacked on Lithuanian chorizo and a bed of risotto. And in between raids on each we’re kept refreshed by a revolving cycle of natural juices (no booze license at press time). If Soul Kitchen Bistro has an Achilles Heel then it is not dessert. Instead we find only evidence of more intelligent cooking: white chocolate mousse with an array of seasonal fruit impresses the most, though the mango and banana ice cream polls a close second. Throughout, natural, local produce is placed on a pedestal, and while it might not be the most radical of menus, Soul Kitchen Bistro do more than enough to ensure that customers leave singing a common refrain: “let’s do that again”. (AW) Soul Kitchen Bistro
ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, tel. 519 020 888, www.soulkitchen.pl
IN SHOPPING noon/noon Add personality to your apartment with some design within reach.
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Here’s a place that quite literally takes Warsaw clubbing to a whole new level. Set on the 32nd floor of the Spektrum Tower, The View’s principal selling point is indeed its view: a 360 degree, open air panorama of the capital. Internationally renowned DJs, a beautiful circular bar and the most glamorous crowd Poland has ever seen have already installed it as the city’s No. 1 club. The View ul. Twarda 18 (Spektrum Tower)
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New Dawn
Secret Garden
Summer Deal
Having started out life as an Argentine restaurant and steakhouse, find Hoża spreading their wings with an updated menu authored by new chef Michał Mizak. Integrated alongside the Latin favorites expect dishes that reflect the city’s appetite for regional Polish produce.
Launched in July, Platinium’s garden extension will be doubling as a summer lounge bar complete with its own program of live music, fancy cocktails and grill menu. As one of the largest terraces of its type, expect it to be hearing a lot about it this August.
With the mercury rising the fresh flavors of Lebanon are just about the perfect way to deal with the stuffy summer. Enjoy them at Le Cedre, where presenting this cutout coupon won’t just get you a 15% discount on the bill, but also a free portion of hummus!
Hoża ul. Hoża 25A
Platinium ul. Fredro 6
Le Cedre Al. Solidarności 84 & Al. Solidarności 61
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Pa N rtn ew er s
Spanish High
“We give Spanish food a new twist,” smiles chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition. With de Salas performing balletic tricks, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. Using imported ingredients as the foundation, an evening in Casa Pablo is a tour de force of creativity, sophistication and exquisite detail. And that’s all done without ever forgetting Spanish values of passion and hospitality. Casa Pablo ul. Grzybowska 5A, casapablo.pl
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PHOTOGRAPH BY AGATA ZYGADŁO
The hospitality is a thing of legend… It’s never too late to have a guest in Georgia. If someone knocks on your door, you have to invite them in – that’s something of a golden rule. For years in Warsaw we were entertaining people, the party never ended. So, we thought, why not open a restaurant. Hospitality is part of Georgian culture, it’s part of our ‘brand’. In Rusiko the hospitality is real, authentic, it’s not something we’ve had to recreate. With this place we want to bring Poland and Georgia a little closer together. Poles are more distant, they don’t fling their arms open like the Georgians do. In Tbilisi you go to a restaurant and everyone is drinking, talking, singing – that’s what we want! It’s important for our staff to understand that, to understand that they have to be a little bit more than just ‘nice’.
From Lands Afar
One Georgian restaurant has taken Warsaw by storm since its opening in spring: the Insider talks to Davit Turkestanishvili, head chef and owner of Rusiko…
Georgia’s meant to beautiful, is it not? We have a story back home: when God was dividing the world up all the nations were queueing up to see which plot of land they’d be given. The queue was so big that the Georgians decided to have a party while they waited – but the party was so good that by the time they woke up the following day God had given away everything. But he showed mercy: look, he said to the Georgians, I’d left a little bit of land for myself but you can have it instead.
How would you describe Georgian food… When Georgians talk they use all of their body. The people are dynamic, and the food is a reflection of that. Our temperament tends to be optimistic and fun. Our mentality is unique. You can see all of these things through our cuisine. You won’t find anything neutral. The colors of the food, the aromas: you can feel the heart, passion and emotion of the people. It’s a cuisine for the senses. It’s also extremely diverse. It’s deeply rooted in tradition, with influences from Persia, even India. And while it’s a small country, you could visit a town 15 kilometers away and the food will be completely different to what you might have had elsewhere. What are the essential things to try? Wine and bread are everything to a Georgian! Outside of that, the chaczapuri and the khinkali are highly recommended. You lose a lot of pleasure by eating with a knife and fork, so these are dishes that are best eaten using your hands. People are scared of showing their emotions nowadays, but this gives them the opportunity to relax, to be happy. A restaurant shouldn’t just be about good food, but positive feelings as well. Rusiko Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628 www.warsawinsider.pl
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restaurants KEY
NEW & NOTEWORTHY
$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED Best of Warsaw Award Winner
ABYSSINIA (Rynek Nowego Miasto 2, www.abyssinia.pl) As it transpires, there’s one way of serving the mains, and it’s truly ingenious: on injera, a spongy flatbread that’s used to scoop up the food. Basically, you eat the plate. Brilliant. And yes, the Ethiopian choices are marvelous: meat and fish dishes served in curry-like sauces with heaps of onions, garlic and ginger. The tastes are strange, alien and immediately addictive.
african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french georgian german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin & mexican middle eastern polish scandinavian specialty shops steak houses thai whole foods
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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.
NOWA PRÓŻNA (ul. Próżna 10) Amazing to think that a few years ago this street looked like it was about to fall down. With Próżna’s restoration nearly complete, along comes the task of filling its ground floor units – consider this venture a successful pacesetter. Founded by the owners of the recently closed R20, the European menu here is a work of flair and modernity. Like the food, the slick white interiors feel just right.
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african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds,
listings / restaurants and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00, www. lamama.eu Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat. But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$
american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos – one with hangar steak and the other with battered tilapia – not to mention Mito’s Beef Ribs and 100% beef dogs. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings: many swear they’re the best to be found. $$
Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00 Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$
Sticky Fingers ul. Marszałkowska 4, tel. 880 763 617, open Mon-Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 9:00-22:00, stickyfingersbbq.pl The menu, that’s printed on some crinkly brown paper, and starts with breakfast pancakes before taking you past a tidy series of burgers and wings – amongst them an ‘Ultra Hot’ version smothered in Mad Dog sauce. We ordered the roast beef and found it fine. While it might not be the BBQ restaurant that Warsaw’s waiting for, it’s a decent enough addition to neighborhood. $
asian Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www. cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws. Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu
ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce. Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!
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listings / restaurants restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices. Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But
the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$
Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing,
punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, open 12:00-22:30. shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $
Finest French Brasserie cuisine in the heart of Warsaw Discover our summer delights
Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne, visit us Mon.-Sat. noon-midnight | Królewska St 11 | 00-065 Warsaw | Tel. +48 22 657 83 82 | Email: brasserie .moderne@sofitel.com | www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne
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listings / restaurants balkan & russian Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, open 11:00-23:00, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a celebration of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $ Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel. 694 109 379, open 12:00-20:00 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $
british Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$
burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:0021:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal
crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with names such as Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their frequent eating competitions. $
Original Indian Cuisine
Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll. Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, open Tue-Thu 12:0021:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00, burgerbar.waw. pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Fuddruckers ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park), tel. 22 533 4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, fuddruckers.com Not ones to keep quiet, the American Fuddruckers chain claim to build ‘the world’s best burger!’ A big claim, but on early evidence they can certainly claim the Warsaw leg of this title. In an added plus, a buffet stand lets you throw as many add-ons (jalapenos, salsa, etc.) onto your food as possible. Full review coming up! Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $
club
Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $
cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001, open daily 11:0022:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $
though not everyone agrees they’re worth the ridiculous waiting times - waits in excess of 20 minutes (and considerably more) are the norm. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00 Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef will make your knees tremble. But with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $
Hummus Bar (B4) ul. Żelazna 64, tel. 723 058 223, open 11:00-19:00 Much like the lime green interior, the concept is simple and straightforward: hummus, falafel and fresh pitta breads served to a busy lunchtime crowd. There’s nothing more to say other than it’s utterly delicious. $
Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:0020:00 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $
Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:0023:00, www.manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – at times, queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…),
To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $
cooking schools Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www. jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailormade courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself. Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels of culinary expertise.
cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:301:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$
BORDO HAS BEEN PRESENT IN THE HEART OF WARSAW FOR 15 YEARS! Breakfast: Mon-Sun 9 a.m. till noon (only in the Chmielna branch) • Italian wines, cocktails, lemonades • Focaccia, bruschetta, sandwiches • Pizza from a wood-fired overn • Pasta, al forno dishes • Big garden right in the city center
ul.Galczynskiego 9, tel. 22 622 0068 nowyswiat@bordo.com.pl fb bordo Gałczyńskiego
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bordo.com.pl
ul.Chmielna 34, tel. 22 826 0171 info@bordo.com.pl fb bordo chmielna
listings / restaurants french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a wellexecuted orange and caramel sauce. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$ Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoriawarsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity
and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.
Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 44 61, open 8:00-23:00, petitappetit.com. pl A bit of French you say? Step in. There’s an atmosphere here that melts regulars and tourists into one. An easy coexistence that reveals a lot about the very soul of the place: café, hangout, bistro. Small choice but good results. $$
large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $
greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open 12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent
georgian Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, open MonSun 12:00-23:00 So good that our Georgian connection claims it to be every bit as good as back home. The khachapuri wins big points, but so too the badrijani – eggplant slices rolled and filled with a mix of walnuts and Georgian spices. And then there’s the chinkali, every Georgian’s favorite dough purse of broth and meaty goodness. $
Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, open Tue-Sun 11:00-23:00 The great location helps, with its nice evening light and people watching opportunities, but it’s the interiors that make it: rugs hanging on the wall, classic tables and contemporary lights. You feel right at home, which I guess is what the owners had in mind from the start. Find them hopping between tables, eating, chatting and going the extra yard. Full of warmth and love for food, not to mention live music on the weekend, this is the Georgia you want to know. $$
Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl
german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard and communal table. So the surprise here is the food – Turkish. And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish! It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. The desserts are a real spoiler as well. $
indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by
Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$
Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:0023:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a finelooking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the
ul. Nowy Świat 36 tel. 731 001 002 beefnroll.pl facebook.com/beefnroll.burgers
BEST BURGERS /WINGS /HOT-DOGS
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shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef, Ram, knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al. Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:0022:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 Even before you enter, you smell Madras: a pungent aroma that wafts gloriously over gloomy Solidarnośći. Looking humble, unassuming, and even a little seedy, this microscopic venue is as far removed from refined as it gets. For all that, those who love Indian food refuse to go anywhere else for their curry – full of intense flavors and bold spicing, the vindaloo is a near death experience: even your hair feels like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. Note: no alcohol license. $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo – could be hotter for some, but good enough for most. $$ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant. And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin
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listings / restaurants lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com. pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab. Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$
international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) pl. Konstytucji 5, open 9:00-24:00, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Fans of the original we might
ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 cafeloft.pl
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be, but this latest venture brings to mind one of those anonymously formulaic Times Square eateries where tourists convene for the ‘fake’ New York experience. There are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport, while the despondent staff only make matters worse. You’d think the Pilsner beer tanks would serve as a point of redemption, but here foul glasses make what should be Warsaw’s freshest beer into the capital’s worst. $$ Ale Wino ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon 17:00-24:00; Tue-Sat 12:00-24:00, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season. Tweaked for summer is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. A Nóż (D9) ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388, open daily
9:00-23:00, www.anoz.pl ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asian-inspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $ A nuż widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 So snug is A nuż widelec, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house. The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and watering the flowers in the knockout garden. Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$ Baltazar by Mondovino (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26, tel. 516 817 855, open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, baltazar. warszawa.pl Filled with big red colors and
Loft’s unique atmosphere is helped by its position on ul. Złota, a historic street now presented in modern form – it’s here you’ll find our oasis from the usual restaurants. Our restaurant’s philosophy is founded on the words of Salvador Dali: ‘You might not eat everything, but you should never eat badly’. Our menu presents creative global flavors and yet is underlined by its strong Polish accents. The chef, meanwhile, introduces principles of physics to the kitchen, which is why you’ll find strawberry snow, dusts, kale chips with caviar, smoked strawberries and fruit foam all on our menu. Additionally, our daily lunch deals (Mon-Fri noon till 4 p.m.) are available for just 19.90zł. Join us in our two floor restaurant, or on our seasonal terrace.
Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2015
listings / restaurants battleship greys, there’s a nice feeling of improvisation to Baltazar, and an undercurrent of individuality emphasized by a 1950s wall painting that’s the venue’s statement piece and ballast. The cooking is the work of twins Kuba and Michał (“one person in two bodies” laughs the owner), and is a brilliant work of deconstructed simplicity: delicate rabbit and thyme ravioli, big caveman-style steaks, and pork belly served with a blob of foam and an arc of liquefied apple. And all hail the desserts, in particular, the silky crème caramel. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, open Tue-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want, then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$
Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open
Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$
Where friends meet friends for good times and more.
Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when ordered with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712, open Tue-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00 The simple name implies exactly what it is: a restaurant in a house. Set in a pre-war home complete with a lawn and garden, this little secret isn’t all that secret. When the Insider visited it was packed, prompting staff to make some adjustments and put together a table. We’re glad they did. Their menu changes frequently, and on our visit included homemade focaccia, beef risotto and gravlax with lime foam on top of a mini-pancake. You won’t want to leave. $$
ul. Wilcza 58A znajomiznajomych.waw.pl
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listings / restaurants be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$
Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 Undeterred by the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonkski, the new guy in the kitchen, Grzegorz Nowakowski, has stamped his own mark with a seasonal menu that’s high on creativity: on our visit that meant guinea fowl accompanied with splotches of emulsion and smears of coffee puree. Pleasingly, you get the idea that it’ll work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet intimate for winter. $$ Grand Kredens Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, open Mon-Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-1:00, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a spirited atmosphere. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily
InFormal Kitchen Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, open 8:30-23:00; Fri 8:3024:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-23:00, informalkitchen.pl Headed by chef Dariusz Ratkowski, there’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26 kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, Open Tue-Fri 17:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 13:00-last guest , www.facebook.com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-anderror attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine, and new chef Piotr Ceranowicz already looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$
Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; -Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat 12:001:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.burgerkitchen. pl It’s the wings that do it. Double fried they are and smothered in a plum BBQ sauce. Eating them is sticky business, but the taste is sensational: just about the most joyous thing you can eat without the use of a fork. After a six month flirtation with upscale dining, Kitchen have done a U-turn and returned to their roots – the results aren’t so much a kitchen revolution, rather a kitchen revelation. The ‘comfort food’ menu is a hit parade of meatballs, burgers, and other such creations made using the best natural, BEST WAWA 2014 local ingredients. “Reinvention” La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, open 8:00-23:00, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$
• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef. • Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes. • The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849
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listings / restaurants La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013. Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon 18:00-22:00; Tue-Fri 12:30-15:30, 18:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00, www.eterrible.pl What a first year for L’enfant Terrible: opened at the end of summer, they’d already done enough by October to win Gazeta Wyborcza’s coveted Knajpy Roku award. And no-one deserves it more than Chef Michał Bryś, an innovative chef who leaves diners beaming. Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Newcomer”
Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-22:00, cafeloft.pl Entering Loft isn’t far removed from stepping inside a pop art painting: lots of vibrant colors and weird lights inside strings of bubbles. A bi-level venture, the best spot to enjoy the menu is on the upstairs terrace, a sunny place befitting of options with names like Ding Dong Soup and Embarrassed Chicken. $$ Lokal 14 (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480, open Mon-Sat 8:30-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka 43, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”. Topping his skills off is a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Getting used to being more than a construction site, the opening of Lokal 14 is positive news for this stretch of Świętokrzyska. $$ Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325, open Sun-Mon 10:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-3:00 The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while
the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. You get the idea both the cooking and artisan cocktails need a little fine-tuning, but fundamentally this newbie is looking in the right direction – certainly one to keep a watch for. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $
Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, Nolita open Mon-Fri 12.00-15.00 (lunch), 18.00-22.30 (dinner); Sat 13.00-23.00, www.nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic
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listings / restaurants and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST BEST WAWA 2014 WAWA 2014 “Chef” “Fine Dining” Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$ Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:00-23:00, www. restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and
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soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96
77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean. $$ Porkownia ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00 Here’s a Warsaw first: a restaurant focused on celebrating the humble pig. Suspicions that Porkownia may lack something in the sophistication department don’t bear fruit – sprouting from the ashes of Jazz Bistro Piękna, the surrounds are chic and modern, not the blood-spattered butcher’s backroom you might otherwise expect. The food is similarly well-presented and scores highly for such dishes as apple/bacon and boar/artichoke/marmite. Showing plenty of creativity, here’s a kitchen that reinvents the pig!
listings / restaurants
Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, open 11:00-22:00, puntaprima.com.pl There’s something immediately fetching about Punta Prima, a place that announces itself grandly with its deep wood panels and embroidered armchairs. For food, choose from a varied menu that draws on largely Mediterranean influences. Try the bream with herbs baked in sea salt. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Renoma (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 22 692 7239, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00, bistrorenoma.pl Here’s a venue that suits all purposes at all times of day. Most of all, it’s a place that feels positive, a place where heart and mind work seamlessly together: that means breakfast to evening options – many of them gluten-free – including fab lunch deals and 60-day aged steaks. Great for afternoon ‘me time’ or a dinner date with a beautiful stranger, Renoma’s intimate style and soothingly stark interiors work with the personalized approach. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, www.saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel;
and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom. It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. $$
nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the daily changing menu. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences around: and yeah, it doesn’t really look like a restaurant. Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cutprice interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. We’re huge fans. $$ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00, www.stoldzielnia.pl
Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Foreign Chef” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’. Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest, www.solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43.pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta. Consider it one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$
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Tapage (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 5, open Sun-Thu 12:0024:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00 Newly opened, it’s best to think of Tapage as a testing ground for experimental ideas. Opened by the same team behind Kaskrut, it’s split into three distinct areas: a terrace, a snug white-tiled bar, and an upstairs nook up some spiral stairs. The menu (scheduled to change every couple of weeks) is brief with dishes presented like proud little artworks. We tried everything (!), and particularly loved the salmon served with sriracha and a bed of diced pineapple. The overlapping tastes form a perfect combination leaving diners stunned. $$ U Chłopaków (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710, open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu
is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has delcious pierogi and a warming, thick goulash. $$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:3023:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl. Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a
listings / restaurants friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year. Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$
Znajomi Znajomych (C5) ul. Wilcza 58A, open Mon-Thi 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 13:00-3:00; Sun 13:001:00, znajomiznajomych.waw.pl You can’t label Zna Zna a restaurant because it’s so much more than that: screenings, DJs, yard sales, book readings… there’s not a thing they don’t turn their hand to. But that’s not to say this retro-styled hangout can’t turn their skills to food – here that means light bites, pizzas, burgers and a recommended chili con carne. $$ Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 14:00-1:00; Sun 14:00-22:00, zurawina. eu First a wine bar, second a restaurant, but the food here is such that it merit attention. There’s only seven or so mains to pick from, and the chef has them down to a tee – rib eye with shallots and truffle butter? Yes please. Certainly, the quality befits one of Warsaw’s best wine bars.
italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Ave Pizza Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-22:00 After experiencing landslide success in Powiśle the Ave team
have listened to the market and expanded to the center. While pizza still plays a prominent role, their newest location is more serious and sophisticated in its culinary intent. Dishes like prawns in parma ham win blanket approval, while the semifreddo stop you in your tracks. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$
Bistro Bordo ul. Chimelna 34 & Gałczyńskiego 9, bordo.com.pl Two locations, one standing dead center on the revamped end of Chmielna, and the other tucked down leafy Gałczyńskiego. Opening earlier than their sister, the original on Chmielna offers a breakfast menu from 9 onwards. In both find simple Italian recipes accurately reproduced and wood-fired pizza ovens that are expertly manned. $$
‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’
Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00
Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open MonSun 12:00-22:00, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, focaccia.pl Polish foodies already know the name of Łukasz Toczka – single-handedly he pulled the culinary shipwreck that is Gdańsk into the 21st century during his stint at Metamorfoza restaurant. Now he’s popped up in Warsaw, and his Italian menu illustrates his talent: consider the bistecca con sedano a must. And while you’d expect a restaurant inside a palace to be all bowties and oil paintings, it’s anything but – instead find fresh, light interiors that reflect the nature of the food. $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27, open daily 13:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00), www. winiarnia-kotlownia.pl You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$
Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a
slightly younger audience. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Trattoria Rucola ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 575 457 & ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, open daily 12:00-22:00 & ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 465 1836, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.trattoriarucola.pl They’ve expanded to cover many locations across town, and in doing so have lost many of their regulars – as far as a chain enterprise goes, the pizza remains pretty good, but you feel a certain spark has been lost as a consequence of their growth. $ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel. 22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www. vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22
Dear Guests! We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine. Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in. Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness. Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222
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listings / restaurants 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$
japanese & sushi Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul. Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Robata by Akashia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.akashia.pl Upstairs is raw and red and black, while downstairs is more calming, though no less interesting: it’s like stepping into a Manga comic, what with the Godzilla graffiti and industrial format. Even the staff look like they’ve been ordered to dress up like Tokyo cool kids. The star here though is the robata grill. We opted for a ‘spray and pray’ approach: ordering lots of little dishes in the hope something would come up trumps. In the event, everything did. $$ Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open MonFri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open MonThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B,
tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$
Newly opened location of Soul Kitchen Bistro. Modern, classic Polish cuisine
Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, open 12:00-21:00, ukiuki.pl Depending on how busy they are, Uki Uki will prepare your Udon noodles fresh within 15-30 minutes. The electric pasta maker, imported from Japan, is a Godzilla of a monster, compressing and even cutting the udon dough into chunky, chewy noodles that provide a solid foundation for a richly satisfying meal. Every now and again a restaurant comes along that makes Warsaw’s dining scene all the more complete – Uki Uki is one of those. $$ Wabu (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, open 12:00-23:00, wabu.pl The food is a masterpiece: immaculate futomaki rolls that look like little artworks, exquisite butterfish and glorious tuna gunkan that flashes with freshness. Screw the chopsticks, food this good finds itself scooped up in the fingers and demolished in seconds. Soon enough it all becomes a blur of beautiful compositions,
ul. Nowogrodzka 18A tel. 519 020 888 www.soulkitchen.pl www.warsawinsider.pl
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Restauracja Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104 / 106, 02-620 Warszawa
tel.: (+48) 22 646 42 08 www.restauracjastarydom.pl
Restauracja Zielnik ul. Odyńca 15, 02-608 Warszawa tel.: (+48) 22 844 35 00 www.restauracjazielnik.pl
Restauracja PAPU
Al. Niepodległości 132/136, 02-554 Warszawa
tel.: (+48) 22 856 77 88 www.restauracjapapu.pl
listings / restaurants of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. The details don’t seem to matter, what does is that Wabu blow the competition out of the water, even if it does leave the credit card streaming smoke. $$$
breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$
jewish
Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant. Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $
Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded. Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$
latin & mexican Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s
Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo. pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of
fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45° and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is by far the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing. And what about this for a nice summer surprise: they’ll be knocking a wall in and expanding both their size and menu. As such, expect them to be closed at the start of August – check their Facebook for updates. Jamon (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9, tel. 22 692 4223, open 12:00-23:00, jamon.pl The place looks the biz – custom made artwork presents swirling senoritas against an interior that’s based around a naval color palette and reclaimed wood touches. Perfect for ‘hot dates’. There’s an onus on authenticity, and that’s evidenced by the four Spaniards found in the kitchen. We could find no weak point, meaning complete enjoyment of the tranche of black Alaskan cod, bulgy-eyed Huelva prawns and
15% discount off total bill in August 2015 (see page 41 for details) Le Cedre 61
opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66
Le Cedre 84
opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99
www.lecedre.pl
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listings / restaurants slow-roasted lamb shank. The desert – white chocolate cream – is worth a prize. $$ La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, open 12:003:00, www.lafiesta.pl What was once a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic turnabout. The sombreros and crap have been replaced by a psychedelic, Day of the Dead-style featuring skeletal Mariachi men, not to mention no shortage of tequila bottles. But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. Is his menu up to scratch? Absolutely no idea. We left after having a run-in with the worst service experienced since the Cold War ended. $
Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, open Mon-Thu 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at 23:00); Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at midnight); Sun 12:00-19:00 (kitchen closes at 18:00), tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing summer zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy BEST tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ WAWA 2014 “Casual Dining” Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, open 12:00-21:00, www. spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. After a mysterious absence of six months, it’s heartening to see Spoco Loco back open for business. $
middle eastern HeyooDubai (B2) Al. Jana Pawła 45/54, tel. 535 075 770, open 11:00-23:00, tagine.pl Any doubts you have about a restaurant trying to cover the cuisine of Morocco, Pakistan and the Gulf states is immediately dispelled by the thick, rich aromas that pour from the traditional Mandi oven. The couscous is stalwart, and the charcoal grilled chicken a dish of real standing. Affordable and casual, Heyoo is the real deal. $$
Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$
Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Meza Beirut (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 692 7555, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-2:00, mezabeirut.pl God knows how many restaurants have chanced their luck in this location, though Meza Beirut look a better bet than most to break the hex. Lebaneserun, the menu here is comprehensive with all the requisite hot and cold mezze and grilled and skewered meats. Early feedback has been largely positive, with decent prices and fresh flavors doing their bit to stir local interest. $$ www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants polish Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$
Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen. But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that
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remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www.atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s only Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Presentation”
Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, belvedere.com.pl Regarded as one of the great names on Warsaw’s culinary carousel, this restaurant never ceases to impress: set in a imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with Adam Komar’s menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A nationwide chain enterprise designed
listings / restaurants to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $
Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:0024:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all
details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu
that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leave, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$
Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-23:00, restauracjadompolski.pl The perfect complement to their older sister on
Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl
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listings / restaurants Francuska, the new offshoot of Dom Polski features a beautiful look that draws heavily on classic, almost noble inspirations. As for the garden, that in itself is a fairytale that requires exploration. The menu is as you’d expect, a modernized take on the traditional, with the game dishes an emphatic favorite. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes
all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead! An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the design features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $
Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, Kuchnia make slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow, while the garden gives people the opportunity to eavesdrop the big concerts at the stadium next door! $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, open 12:00-22:00 Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.
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Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$ Oycowizna ul. Słoneczna 241 (Lesznowola), tel. 22 713 8993, open 11:00-23:00, oycowizna.pl A bucolic country cottage set 20 clicks from Warsaw is home to this charmer of a hotel / restaurant. Filled with hanging pots, pans and horseshoes, there’s something authentically Polish about it all. Same goes for the menu, which is a deliciously filling rundown of the Old Polish kitchen. $$
Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, open 11:00-22:30, restauracjapapu. pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Fall-off-the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.podwale25.pl Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining
listings / restaurants extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.
the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison and lamb. $$$
Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $$
U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$
Soul Kitchen Bistro ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, tel. 519 020 888, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00, www. soulkitchen.pl Talk about brilliant. After a brief hiatus Soul Kitchen return with a new location and ‘bistro’ added to their title. The cooking is as you remember: a stonking celebration of Polish nature. The difference is the price – slashed right down. $$
scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave
Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, tel. 22 622 2472, varso-vie. pl For a wonderfully modern interpretation of Polish cooking head to Varso Vie, a handsome restaurant with a stylish look and a strong menu that revives old recipes in a new way. For the full review see p. 36. $$
RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR
Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, open 12:00-23:30, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse,
Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $
restaurant with a cocktail bar in the BUSTLING center of Warsaw, invites YOU to TASTE THE BEST OF Polish cuisine.
Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, open 10:0023:30, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and tender braised veal that’s good for the chills. You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$ www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$
are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.
specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12, open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 7:30-16:00 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. And don’t miss a chat with the nation’s most celebrated butcher: Pan Grzegorz of Crazy Butcher. Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats
Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. British Shop (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has
now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine. Kosher Shop (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.
Slow food and a slow life philosophy inside an urban interior and a luxury wine and spirits list. Our kitchen uses only high quality regional and ecological produce. tel. 22 623 02 90, www.dwietrzecie.waw.pl
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listings / restaurants Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available. Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116, open Sat 10:00-15:00 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however. Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less! Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.namasteindia.pl Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, open 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, samira. pl Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks. Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.
steak houses Beef n’Pepper (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 731 307 377, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00, Sun 12:0023:00 A social space that encourages friends
to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28 day period. And yes, it’s definitely decent. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, www. merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef
Traditional Polish cuisine Best venison and lamb in Warsaw Live music Regional wine, beer and spirits Grand Kredens - 16 years full of tradition
Aleje Jerozolimskie 111 tel. +48 22 629 80 08 Mob. +48 697 900 000 kredens@kredens.com.pl www.kredens.com.pl Follow us on Facebook www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. $$$ Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.muumuu.pl A life-size cow with a menu chained around its neck stands outside as if to say: “turn back now, vegetarians.” Looking sparky, fun and engaging the décor is composed of light woods and soft touches, not to mention blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is indeed meat, and involves T-bone, rib eye, chateaubriand not to mention a few burgers. The standard is high, but so too the prices. Our otherwise excellent sirloin was spoiled somewhat by limp, soggy chips that came at zł. 10 extra. $$
Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week
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opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$
thai Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, open 11:00-23:00, www.basil-lime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$ my’o’tai ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter on Górskiego), tel. 662 742 901, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00, Sun 12:00-21:00 While the menu lacks standard Thai dishes (no noodles!?), the tastes are thoroughly authentic and a credit to chef Trisno Hamidis. The caramelized spicy chicken wings are so good you’ll think about ordering them twice. $$ Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, open Mon 16:00-23:00; Tue-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:30 An anonymous design and
out-of-town location never stopped guests flocking here. But that stands to change after the departure of chef Chanunkan Duangkumma. What was Warsaw’s best Thai now finds itself facing the biggest challenge of its existence. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, open 10:00-21:00, www.suparomthaifood. pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:00-23:00, www.thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and vibrant colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$
listings / restaurants Thaisty (C2) pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day.
need to be junk food. $
Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$
Mango Vegan Street Food ul. Bracka 20, open Sun-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00 Everything vegan that you’d actually like to eat: veggie burgers, fries, falafel, soup, a fruit salad – here, obviously a mango salad. Especially recommended is the hummus with sun-dried tomatoes – a nice twist on a simple classic dish.
whole foods
Pestka (D4) ul. Bracka 6/8, tel. 691 706 900, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.organicbistro-pestka. pl A simple, soothing space of sparing decorations, light modern finishes and plenty of natural light that gushes through the windows. Eschewing the fat and lard that used to feature so prominently in local living, Pestka is all about organic: consider it a gateway to sensible living and a balanced diet. Even the fish is tested for high metal content. Recommended are the bio-baguettes, corn tortilla wraps and wholemeal pancakes. $
Jamniczek ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, open 11:00-21:00 This small dual-level nook specializes in vegan hot dogs and healthy non-alc cocktails. Foregoing factory floor snips and tails, principle fillings include millet, tofu and spinach. Taste-wise it does well, but you can’t help but feel they’ve got the proportions all wrong: heaps of salad, massive baguettes, but only a thin little ‘dog’ in the middle. $ Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering fashion statements and eccentric hair. $ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122, open TueSun 12:00-21:00 The interior looks a little like a New Age milk bar, the kind that’s left the design down to IKEA, but looking at the above-counter menu you soon realize there’s more to this place than meets the eye. While you can’t say the food is ‘meat imitation’ the schabowy is a whole lot better than some of the chops we’ve had in our time. And then there’s the kebab, seasoned with seitan, that goes some way to proving fast food doesn’t
Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $
Vegan Pizza ul. Poznańska 7, open 12:00-22:00 While the place lacks effort on the design front (a plain room with local radio piped around), the pizza is pretty good. There’s 24 to pick from, and while it’s not love at first bite, there’s a tendency to get strangely hooked by the new tastes and alien sensations. Definitely an interesting departure from the high street pizzerias. Recommended: Italian Madness – melty cheese and herby bursts of pesto. $ W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489, open 10:00-23:00 A vegan haven whose menu is heavily slanted towards local produce. The offer includes a number of vegan pastes, sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups (e.g. cream of pumpkin with coconut milk). The presence of equally hip Meat Love next door is something of a foil, with the two neighbors naturally complimenting each other. $ www.warsawinsider.pl
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cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTEWORTHY
CITY SAM (ul. Twarda 4, samcatering.pl) The ground floor of the Cosmopolitan needed something special, and it’s got it in the shape of City SAM. Already immensely successful in the Powiśle district, the new downtown venture distributes a fantastic range of healthy food and drinks in an attractive space that looks fashionably spartan.
PAUL (ul. Emilii Plater 53, boulangeries-paul.com) With a history dating back to 1889 this French chain takes quality seriously – even the ingredients have been imported from France. The breads and pastries are baked onsite, and the sweets are worth particular attention: the macaroons and eclairs are pure sin.
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bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 620 0819, open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00; Sat 8:00-16:00 We’re told the interiors were purposefully kept neutral to keep the focus on the product – and crikey, what bread. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. Some claim it’s the best bakery in Poland, and we’re not arguing. Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to hang around. Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 662 204 555, bistrocharlotte. com The battle lines are drawn: on one side it’s the slobs of Plan B, and on the other the snobs of Charlotte. While the fancy crowd (all jangling Porsche keys and idiotic selfies) isn’t to everyone’s liking, Charlotte’s baked goods are commonly hailed as things of rare beauty.
Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, open Mon-Sat 8:00-19:00; Sun 8:00-18:00 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches. SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 606 836 836, www.sam.info.pl A central, communal table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of
listings / cafés & wine bars freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata KusinaDoran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc.
cafés Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 603 300 835, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:45 The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:0023:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal. Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, open daily 11:00-22:00 Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema. Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-
22:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit? They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined! Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 513 422 908, open 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee. Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:0020:00 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level. Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, open 12:00-23:30, restauracjastarydom.pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king of his field. Cupcake Corner (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, cupcakecorner.pl Having made their name in Kraków, the Americaninspired Cupcake Corner arrive in Warsaw ready to go head-to-head with cupcake giants La Vanille. Creations here include chocolate chip cookie, peanut butter cup, and Oreo, with muffins and homemade ice cream (sweet carrot!) also available. ‘We bake happiness,’ they proclaim, and indeed they do. Czuła Buła (D8) ul. Narbutta 16, tel. 668 134 736, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-16:00. With its whitewashed bricks and potted greenery Czuła Buła looks just about
like every other café that’s opened this year. Exceedingly pleasant as a summer spot, hats get tipped for their sandwiches, desserts and fruit concoctions. If you’re in the ’hood, why not check it out. Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31, open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital. Drop Juice Bar ul. Sienna 81 (enter from Żelazna), open Mon 12:00-20:00; Tue-Fri 10:00-20:00, drop. waw.pl Whether your body is a temple or a dustbin, squeeze in a visit to the Drop Juice bar (enter through the slidey door leading to the MD Clinic). Specializing in cold pressed juices, smoothies and superfoods, they make a point of using natural products only. Expect no artificial additives, no pasteurizing and no water cheating its way into your drink. Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. Krucza 23 Café & Bakery ul. Krucza 23, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; SatSun 10:00-20:00 They didn’t spend much www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / cafés & wine bars time thinking about the name, that’s a given, but that’s not to say creativity is entirely absent. There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light. Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, tel. 789 176 730, open daily 8:00-22:00. Also at ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 518 652 436, open daily 10:0022:00 Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe. BEST WAWA 2014 “Coffee” MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.
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my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www. myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor. The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.
limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. Concerts and comedy nights keep business ticking on quieter days.
Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open MonFri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.
Strefa (D7) Oleandrów 3, tel. 784 404 731, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00 A pleasing find, Strefa’s casual atmosphere is emphasized by a stack of board games and books in the corner – people come here to dwell and dawdle over hot coffee, craft beer, changing art and a slice of homemade cake. A strong sense of neighborhood prevails, with owners of neighboring businesses always swinging by for a chat and a chew.
Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while summer sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.
Think Love Juices ul. Francuska 14, tel. 516 182 029, open 8:00-22:00, thinklove.pl Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this white-clad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily changing lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny.
Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd. Resort ul. Bielańska 1, open Mon-Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-2:00 The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the
Stor ul. Tamka 33, open Mon-Fri 7:30-21:30; Sat-Sun 8:30-19:00 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.
Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 796 880 822 or 793 567 125. open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.
ice cream Budka z Lodami (H4) ul. Francuska 30 This innocuous wooden cabin has become a summer staple for Sunday Saska strollers. Natural ingredients and creative flavor combinations have installed it as a legend. Just brilliant.
listings / cafés & wine bars Chmiel Café (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, open Sun-Thu 10:0022:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest, chmielcafe.pl Rows and rows of Belgian beers occupy the shelves, while behind the counter find pedigree treats, cakes and ice cream from the Slow Food approved Consonni brand. Forget the industrial rubbish, the ice cream produced by this lot is an absolute standout. With the outdoor terrace making its debut, it’s the ideal family solution with something for everyone. Fabryka Lodów Tradycjnych ul. Tamka 31 & ul. Marszałkowska 85 Ice cream season is on us, and as we learnt last summer, Warsaw has moved beyond the strawberry and vanilla stage. Now it’s all about blueberry or chocolate and chili. Find both of the aforementioned in Fabryka, a parlor that prides itself on its natural ingredients and daily changing offer. La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 The flavors aren’t the most experimental found in Warsaw, but we’ve yet to find a better strawberry ice cream in the city: it’s stuff that makes you go ‘wow’. Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) various locations, inc. Dąbrowskiego 1 An artisan Italian gelato stop. The Venetian-born owner thrives on experimentation, with traditional flavors matched by the inclusion of oddities such as cucumber, beer and, even, ice cream for your dog! Lody Prawdziwe (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22 While the original on Świętokrzyska 30 is still alive, expect their new location to be the one that gets the crowds – big crowds. Priding themselves on the provenance of their ingredients, past picks from this artisan producer include Colombian coffee, Oreo and Madagascan vanilla. Others still swoon over their cherry choice. Malinova (D9) Al. Niepodłegości 130 Some argue this is the best ice cream in the city, it’s certainly one of the most famous. Opened in 2001 – vintage by Warsaw standards – there’s an old-school feel to this cult classic. Sucre ul. Mokotowsa 12, ul. Żurawia 26, ul. Chmielna 26, sucre.pl Nothing more than a
hole-in-a-wall, and yet ever since opening last year Sucre have come to be considered the best in the trade when it comes to natural ice cream. Let the steady queue speak for itself.
wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. BEST WAWA 2014 “Wine Bar” Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls. Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 628 4459, open Mon-Thur 7:00-24:00; Fri 7:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-22:00, www.bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-
inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.jungilecker.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, www.mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels. This vibrant space promises much, not least on account of an inner terrace deck that you know is going to be the talk of this summer. Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Wejman ul. Zgoda 4, tel. 661 661 150, open 12:0024:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00, wejmanwinebar. pl The owners cooperated closely with acclaimed importer Guillaume Deliancourt to assemble a stock list dominated by Southern European – especially French – and New World wine. Try before you buy at this hotly trending wine bar. www.warsawinsider.pl
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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE
LEVEL 27 (Al. Jerozolimskie 123a, Millennium Plaza) The clue is in the name. Set on the 27th floor of the Millennium Plaza, Level 27 promises a world class clubbing experience with open air views of the city down below. In more ways than one, you’ll rarely feel closer to the stars. We’ll be back next issue with the full lowdown!
bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual. Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite… Bar Wieczorny ul. Wiśniowa 46, open Tue-Thu 16:00-22:00; Fri 16:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00, barwieczorny.pl Preparing for their first summer, it’s going to be one helluva’ place to visit once the weather heats up: that garden is going to get naughty! The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game. Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.
KLUB 12/14 (ul. Piwna 12/14, 12on14club.com) Sometimes you’ve got to ask, just where are all the jazz bars? Well, at last the void has been filled with the entry of Klub 12/14 on the market. A schedule of daily evening concerts, a decent uncomplicated menu and a smart white design make it a welcome addition to the Old Town.
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Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja), open 18:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-3:00 Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia. Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces. A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.
listings / nightlife Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, open 11:00-last guest, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd. What has remained constant is the energy. Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound. British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl In terms of aesthetics it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment.
Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com.pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29. Ceska ul. Chmielna 35, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, ceska.pl Having promised to never return following an incident with a nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds. Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.
Browarmia (D3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, open daily 12:00-last guest A brewery first and foremost – and an average one at that – full of pipes, valves and mysterious gauges. They still do their own brewing, but conscious of the shift towards artisan beer they’ve now also added around twenty taps to their offer. The choice is a little more pedestrian than the competition, but is nonetheless a pleasant sign of changing times. That it looks, feels and smells like a brewery makes it all the more welcome.
Column Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol), open 10:00-1:00 Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless. In summer, enjoy your drinks out in the beautifully tranquil courtyard.
Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open
Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106,
open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open 16:00-last guest,2 www.czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Dandys Bar & Art Kafe (D6) ul. Piękna 15, tel. 883 588 388, closed for summer holidays check facebook for reopening schedule, dandysbar.pl Dandys brings together the cream of Warsaw’s social scene inside a split-level bar that smacks of good times and high living: this is a place created with ‘super sexy’ in mind. The top quality cocktails are befitting of the people and philosophy. Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, open Mon-Thu 14:00-23:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-23:00 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / nightlife right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.
the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor. There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray!
Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open Mon-Fri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.
Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul. Nowolipki), open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Fri 15:00-2:00; Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 13:0022:00 You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz.
Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. Hoppiness ul. Chmielna 27/31, open 11:00-24:00 You’re in good hands here – opened under
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Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, open daily 11:00-last guest, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.
Jabeerwocky ul. Nowogrodzka 12, open Mon-Thu 13:0024:00; Fri-Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 15:00-24:00, taproom.pl Prices go from affordable all the way up to, ‘bloody hell, how much!?’ Find a staggering choice on pump, tap and in the fridges, with the international selection accrued by true aficionados: the beers are brill, and so are some of the beards. We’re still awaiting the promised garden, so in the meantime enjoy an appealingly coarse interior that features original tilework over 100 years old. Jedna Trzecia ul. Wilcza 52, tel 605 589 588, open MonThu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-24:00 Unbeknown to some publicans, craft is not a numbers game – it’s not about how many taps you have, it’s about what comes out of them. This lot understood that from the start. Quality control is stringent, yet aside from pouring the perfect pint (every time), Jedna Trzecia have a choice that reflects the latest developments on the global craft scene: rare find international brews are a specialty and come presented in an industrial, concrete space softened by its mustard lighting and laidback audience. BEST WAWA 2014 “Craft Beer Bar” Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731, open 12:00-24:00 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d
listings / nightlife be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers are fine. Karowa 31 ul. Karowa 31, open Tue 18:00-24:00; Wed 18:00-3:00; Thu 18:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed by Bram, the former manager of the London Cocktail Club. Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious! Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.
the spell of spillage. Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel. 22 825 6202, open daily 11:00-03:00, www. lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged. Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. tel. 510 905 592, open Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00 Hands up who loves good
beer? Thought so. Małe Piwo have been a sensation since opening, preempting the craft beer trend and in the process attracting huge crowds of every sub-section of the hipster community. The choice of bottles is immense, and enjoyed in an edgy, dive bar background that’s snugger than a mouse’s waistcoat. Multitap Bla Bla ul. Nowogrodzka 22, open 14:00-2:00, blabla.com.pl Looking murky and in need of a good scrub (and that’s just the glasses), you feel Bla Bla is simply here to suck up overspill from its more high-profile neighbors. Ten taps here, usually carrying beers you know inside out. But you will find a seat and there’s a kebab shop next door. Na Lato (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094, open Mon 8:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-1:00; Fri 8:00-5:00; Sat 10:00-5:00; Sun 10:00-24:00 Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the onset of sunshine means you can enjoy them on the expanse of greenery directly outside. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in
Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and
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listings / nightlife summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3, open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans. The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit. Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:002:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling. Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.
Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice during summer 2014. The reopening of Świętokrzyska should lead a few more people through the door – they’ll like what they see.
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Perłowa Bistro ul. Bracka 18, tel. 22 400 2233, open 12:00-23:00 Created to showcase Perła’s full skillset, this newbie matches seven taps from Poland’s best ‘big brewery’ to smart interiors splashed with light industrial touches. Choices include cult drops such as Zwierzyniec, Perła Koźlak and Perła Mocna, with prices topping out at zł. 9 per pint.
Pociąg do Piwa ul. Dereniowa 2, tel. 501 022 890, open 14:00-last guest Jumping onto the multi-tap bandwagon is Pociąg do Piwa, a smallish locale whose one design element is a steam engine traced into the wall using bottle tops. There’s 12 taps in all, and they primarily distribute cult Polish beers from the likes of Pinta and AleBrowar.
Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.
Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; FriSat 10:00-3:00 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.
Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 24 hrs We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells and queue scrum. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-of-term street party. Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 534 734 945, open 16:00-last guest, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station. Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 501 988 768, open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-1:00 Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele. The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement. Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.
Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Sketch w Teatrze Wielkim (D2) Pl. Piłsudkiego 9, tel. 602 762 764, open 12:00-1:00, sketch.pl Here’s a multi tap bar designed with a very specific crowd in mind: glam stylists, models with sleeve tattoos and other vapid morons. Looking bold, bright and brash, this is just about the worst tap bar Warsaw has ever seen. The beer aspect is purely incidental. You get the idea this mob would be here if the pipes were hooked up to the udders of a cow – so long as milk was in fashion. Yuck. Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjasloik.pl Słoik looks bright, loud and vibrant, so it’s no surprise to learn their cocktail maestros specialize in maverick creations. A source of particular pride are drinks that celebrate Poland: we’re talking about vodkas infused with juniper and
listings / nightlife vanilla, then mixed with marmalades and other exotica like pickled cucumber juice. The tastes are unique and leave you bandylegged and shouting for more.
sessions. All this in an interior that’s dark and slick but not short of character – all of a sudden moving out to Ursynów seems a rather smart idea.
a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.
Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.
Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, tel. 22 474 40 84, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle. pl The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as a hipster Center of Power, you’ll know if you belong.
Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past
Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, open Tue-Thu 20:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 19:00-6:00, syrenispiew. pl Set in a beautifully restored piece of PRL concrete, Syreni Śpiew’s lasting popularity has proved the doubters wrong. This is not some one season wonder, rather a place that has gone from strength to strength. Primarily known for its hefty whisky offer (which is divided into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan), the cocktails also stand up to scrutiny on account of their consistent quality. A genuinely unique drinking experience with cool elements of retro chic.
The View ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/ club looks set to reinvent the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. The look is sleek and stylish. Vyceska ul. Polinezyjska 10, open 13:00-23:00 As welcome as the craft revolution has been, there are times you just want a good honest pint: so how about this, a multi-tap whose focus zooms on all things Czech. There’s eight taps and a wealth of bottles to traipse through as well as a small menu of food designed to sustain protracted drinking
Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. 602 773 997, open Sun-Thu 17:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00 A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele comprised of architects. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.
clubs Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-thetop style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary for a night to remember. De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior. Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with
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listings / nightlife sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better. Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły ul. Grochowska 301/305, tel. 530 360 060, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out.
gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself. Sofia (D6) ul. Polna 13, www.klubsofia.pl A.k.a The Bulgarian Embassy, Sofia have rebuilt the reputation earned during their city center heyday in the naughty noughties. Sure, the atmosphere is more restrained than in their former location, but the dancers aren’t.
live music Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754, open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and
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industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger. Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.
park & beach bars BarKa (D1) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33 Deckchairs and canvas canopies are the order of the day on this barge / bar complex. Attracting a more upmarket crowd than some of the riverside bars, BarKa deserves credit for drinks that extend beyond everyday fizz: decent cocktails and hoppy beers brewed specifically for them.
Plażowa (G3) Underneath Most Poniatowskiego, open 12:00-last guest They either complement Temat Rzeka next door, or steal their thunder – your choice. Set in and around a swanky new complex standing under the National Stadium, points are scored for a music stage, an open air top floor VIP platform, and toilets you aren’t terrified of entering. Temat Rzeka (G3) Under Poniatowskiego Bridge, open Sun-Tue 11:00-1:00; Wed 11:00-2:00; Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-5:00 Sat right on the beach, this white riverside cabin attracts hundreds of revelers – occasionally thousands. Check their Facebook for details about parties, events and various happenings.
shot bars Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, open 14:00-4:00, barwarszawa.pl Creak upstairs to find a warm space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations such as vintage radios and black and white photos of bare breasted prostitutes. Run as a side project by a TV producer, flexible opening hours mean it doesn’t always close at the stated 4 a.m.
Cud nad Wisłą (E2) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie, tel. 533 649 561, open 10:00-last guest, What summer drinking should be about. Deckchairs and cushions abound in this riverside spot, and it excels at night when twinkly lights reflect off the inky black waters. The live music does its bit to ensure it’s never a quiet night.
Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 / Parkingowa 5 Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious.
La Playa ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, www.laplaya.pl Mix-up surf inspired cocktails, lager in plastic glasses, a volleyball net, lounge chairs and some spontaneous samba, and you get the most unexpected beach party you’d ever imagine. If you’re feeling particularly daring, go skinny dipping in the murky, muddy Wisła.
Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19, open 24hrs Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commie-era sports reports that are plastered to the wall.
Plac Zabaw (F6) ul. Myśliwiecka 9 (Park Agrykola), open 12:00-4:00 Owned by the same dudes behind Plan B, the name translates as ‘Playground’. With a low-key, open air set-up in the wooded bit under Trasa Łazienkowska, from an aesthetic point there’s little to write home about. Even so, with summer in song you’ll find it rocking into the wee, early hours.
Przekąski u Romana ul. Ludna 2, tel. 660 525 777, open 24hrs Bow-tied and debonair, proprietor Roman Modzelewski first came to attention as the bar steward of the defunct shot bar once found in the Hotel Europejski. Now he’s back, this time heading his own operation in hip Powiśle – it’s on its way to becoming a legend.
shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www.agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…
INSIDER’S PICK NOON/NOON I love IKEA, I think everyone does, apart from those who hate having to build their own wardrobe. Sometimes though, you want to own something that’s a little more unique. Noon/noon is the perfect place to find that something special, and at a fairly reasonable price, but what marks it as truly original is that it’s well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand. It really makes a difference to take a test drive in a chair while having a coffee and checking your email in a comfortable environment. After a while, you think differently about furniture design and get to know more about what goes into it. The space is also a very good alternative to hosting work meetings, and a stimulating change from the office fish bowl environment. Could this concept yet become a trend to be aped around town? NOON/NOON ul. Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), tel. 790 028 616, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 10:30-14:30, noonnoon.pl
“ It makes a difference to take a test drive in a chair while having a coffee…”
Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.bathandbodyworks. com The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances. BeautyLab Polska beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care. Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel. 794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / shopping Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space. Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40, tel. 798 025 505, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.
Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.
antiques Kolo ul. Obozowa 99, www.gieldastaroci.waw.pl What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. Half-junkyard, half treasure trove, it’s an experience in itself. Kwadryga ul. Wilcza 29, www.kwadryga.com Entered through a courtyard, it’s a magnet for bibliophiles, and groans with antique books,
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faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past. Victoria Galeria ul. Żytnia 15 lok. 4, open daily 10:00-18:00, www.antykivictoria.pl Sourced from the auction houses of London, with deliveries arriving each month, the offer is overwhelmingly English, though not exclusively so – there are oriental pieces, French, and more. Refreshing in its bright, clean style, Victoria is a magnificent environment to shop for that statement piece every living room requires.
fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style. Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Bombay Shirts ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 606 270 400, bombayshirts.com Custom-made shirts for both men and women created from a choice of over 150 fabrics: among them the finest Egyptian cotton, two-ply cottons and pure linens. They promise shirts that are ‘modern and fast-paced but buttressed with old world charm’. EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, tel. 22 826 1956, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories. Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl No
wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.
Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Brands include: Balmain, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham and Yves Salomon. Mostrami.pl www.mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy. com Brands include: Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino and Yves Salomon. And also in the luxury baby corner: baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids and Tod’s Kids. Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great
listings / shopping selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200? She’s a Riot ul. Mysia 3, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, shop.shesariot.com A fashion-forward label for grownups – women who hover between a rock-inspired, whimsical twist on a retro Mad Men silhouette. While the online store deals principally with clothing, the new boutique location sees fashion magazines, arty books and lifestyle accessories awarded prominence.
Fashion Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering. Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), tel. 518 920 124, open Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design. Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.
Blind Concept Store ul. Mokotowska 63/100, tel. 501 770 661 From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution. Find it all from eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday and Woodyglasses, killer heels from United Nude and Melissa & Vivienne Westwood, etc Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts
Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13. Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.
made to measure suits and shirts
malls & department stores
3D body scanning
Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl
after-sales service
Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 828 6789 Four
levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.
professional advice perfect fit guarantee
ul. Sienna 39 tel. 22 243 7377 www.vanthorn.pl
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family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.
If you like to be beside the seaside but don’t want the five hour drive, then hook your bucket and spade on to your handlebars and pedal off to Warsaw’s riverbank! La Playa (laplaya.pl) Surrounded by fake palm trees, this beach club has ample seating and several hammocks well situated to wind away the hours admiring the city’s skyline. Roll out your towel, build sandcastles, blow up the inflatable while watching people play beach games then go dip your toe in the calm, albeit murky, water of the Wisla. Volleyball, badminton and boules equipment is available for free and the decking, meanwhile, doubles as a dancefloor: so don’t come for peace and quiet! DJ’s pump out hypnotic summer dance tunes throughout the day. On Sundays Latin beats bring the salsa and samba crowd, and a rather handsome instructor will assist those wishing to loosen the hips. Toilets are in abundance, as are beefy security men who double as lifeguards! The only thing La Playa really lacks is a beach café – unless the food trucks pull up then its frytki or a DIY beach bbq. La Playa Line Park (parklinowywarszawa.pl) Tarzan fans will love this place! Like many of these rope parks there are different levels of adrenaline rush available. Children from 4-years old can try, but it’s the real daredevil who clambers into the treetops and gets a stunning view of Warsaw’s ever changing skyline. Admission: zł. 30-120 River Ferry (www.ztm.waw.pl) The ferries are rather ramshackle but they offer a frequent service with impressive city views to boot. Laden down with parasols, buckets, spades and a picnic, you might look like refugees fleeing land but this journey is fast, fun and FREE! The ‘Wilga’ route crossing stops right on the sandbanks of La Playa. (GBB)
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Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web. Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, www.golfparkspoland. pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course. Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.zacheta. art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.
PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS
TAKE ME TO THE RIVER
HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools. Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.
listings / family education preschools
American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curric-
ulum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.
www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.
The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl,
The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel. 781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations
American School of Warsaw is hosting an Open House for prospective families.
Come experience us in action! • Tour the school • Interact with administrators, faculty and students • Receive admissions information AUGU ST
SEPT EMBE R
NOVE MBER
MARC H
JANUARY
26 30 25 20 Bielawa, ul. Warszawska 202 05-520 Konstancin Jeziorna, Poland www.aswarsaw.org
August 26 9:00–11:00
ASW open house.indd 1
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warsaw montessori school
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listings / family for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15. Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17. Buzzy Bee Bilingual Preschool & Kindergarten ul. Śląska 45, tel. 502 036 962 / 22 863 30 96, www.przedszkole-wlochy.pl An English immersion program designed for Polish and international children aged one to five. The curriculum is conducted in Polish and English and prepares children for entry into their Vancouver primary schools. The school is situated in a quiet, green neighborhood of Stare Włochy and a 2,000 sq/m garden. The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadian-school.
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pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.
Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)
Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in Eng-
lish according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.
Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecole-montessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.
The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.
listings / family The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com
ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.
The International Preschool of Warsaw ul. Kalatowki 24, tel. 22 843 0964, ipw. edu.pl IPW is located in a residential area of Mokotów, within walking distance of Królikarnia as well as both tram and metro lines. Children from 2.5 to 6 years old are welcome. English is the language spoken and breakfast, lunch and snacks are provided during the day. Children also have the opportunity to participate in gymnastics, music, art and drama classes. IPW serves the international community and prepares children for international education.
American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/or to visit our school contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.
schools
The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@canadianschool.pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.
The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 Maple Tree 420 044 / 885 620 066, Montessori secretary.olimpijska@ ul. Piechoty Łanowej canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school. 46A (entrance from pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education Rotmistrzowska/ for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural The British School Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www. events and challenging student initiatives ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montescreate a perfect learning and creative thinkopen 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. sori is a family-run, international preschool ing environment. For further info, tours and that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking school visits call or email. Also home to the private school in Warsaw providing outstandsupported by a Music & Art program, with a Non-Public Psycho-Pedagogical Counseling CHILD Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel. 885 620 066) which ing education based A on PREMIUM the British system.EDUCAnatural playground and a strong focusGIVE on an YOUR
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GIVE YOUR CHILD A PREMIUM EDUCATION
www.thebritishschool.pl
founded in 1992
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listings / family examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..
Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. Vancouver School ul. Globusowa 38, tel. 887 808 266, vancouverschools.pl The teaching system here combines the best practices and aspects of the Polish and Canadian education systems, with daily classes in English conducted in accordance with the proven method of ‘immersion’ using modern Canadian and British materials. Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.
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cafes
shops
Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.
Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou.
Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:0020:00, www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties. Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 839 75 60 or 501 183 953, open Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www.kalimba.pl Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops. The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable!
Lullaby Multiple locations, www.lullaby.pl Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.
Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.
health & beauty cycling stores & service Bikeman Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant. Accessories include helmets, gloves, backpacks plus everything you need to revive your bike if it passes out. Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572 Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out. Kettler ul. Okopowa 56, tel. 22 826 3541, pl.kettler. net The world-renowned Kettler brand brings the full extent of their offer to Warsaw. On the bike front that means mountain bikes, city and their innovative e-bikes. This being Kettler, find also numerous other products to contribute to your active lifestyle.
WARSAW WAKEBOARDING
WAWA WAKE (ul. Wspólna in Konstancin-Jeziorna, wawawake.pl) Quite a place – wakeboarding galore at a venue that also boasts a beach bar, board shop, a ‘stand up paddle center’ and a wake park. The key attraction is a WakeStation with a cable length of 160 meters. WAKEPARK ŁOMIANKI (ul. Przy Jeziorze, wakeparklomianki.pl) Found 20 minutes from Warsaw city center, this wake park caters for all levels of ability. The cable length is 175 meters and the rest of the complex features a beach bar, surf shop, trampolines and BBQ stations. WARSAW WAKE ACADEMY (Port Czerniakowski, wwa2.pl) A perfect introduction to wakeboarding: the offer here includes courses and classes, as well as equipment rental, a shop, and a System 2.0 cable system. Find it a short walk from the Legia stadium. WAKE ART CABLE PARK KRUBIN (ul. Jeziorna 89 in Krubin, wakeart.pl) Tuition for all ages and skill levels, as well as a chill out area and equipment rental. Find it not far from Modlin. If their website is anything to go by, the place is up for sale but still functioning.
Wygodny Rower Various locations, tel. 888 498 498, wygodnyrower.pl Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.
golf First Warsaw Golf & Country Club ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf.com Found 25 kiometers from Warsaw, this 20,000 sq/m complex features a par 72, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, luxurious club house and a stunning environment replete with gliding swans and bouncing bunnies! The final hole, set on an island, attracts golfers from across Poland and beyond. Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19, www.golfparkspoland.pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / health & beauty this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. Among other features are a chipping area, sand bunker, putting green, pitch and putt course and mini-golf.
gyms Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.
Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.
Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.
RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).
Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.
Elektoralna Dental Clinic ul. Elektoralna 28, tel. 22 620 2140, elektoralna.pl State-of-the-art dental clinic featuring Poland’s first dental tomograph. Languages spoken include English, German, Spanish and Arabic.
McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy
ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.
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dental clinics
Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul. Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment. English-speaking service also available.
medical clinics Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district. Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www.wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.
spas & salons
0 Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9 Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men. Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field. Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.” Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Warsaw Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www. hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products. The Hermit Barber Shop pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled,
listings / health & beauty this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience. La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla. pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/ clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one! La Plata ul. Wielicka 42, tel. 517 576 667, laplataspa.pl Manual and mechanized massage in a relaxed space inspired by Buddhist philosophy. Treatments include herbal stamp Thai massage and hot coconut oil massage amongst others. Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00. This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away the day to day bustle. Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.
Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.
sport BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly. Frogs & Co. warsawfrogs.com While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side. Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook for further details. Hobby Kicker Expat football team that meets each week on the 3G pitches at Centrum Futbolu Warszawi-
anka (ul. Merliniego 2). All nationalities and levels of skills welcome. Search for Hobby Kicker – Warsaw on Facebook for details. Warsaw International Triathlon Club warsawtriclub.com Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running.
swimming Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), tel. 22 773 9191, wesolandia.pl Features a recreational pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities. Private Coaching Tel. 512 517 013, anthonypst.wix.com/ anthonypst Ozzie Anthony offers one-onone swimming classes conducted at your venue of choice. Fully qualified, he offers tailor-made lessons for all ages and all levels of proficiency. Wodny Park ul. Merliniego 4, tel. 22 854 0130, wodnypark.com.pl When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts.
Odent was established to ensure the highest level of service on the dental map of Warsaw. We offer flexible hours, cutting edge technology and two branches in convenient locations in Żoliborz and Ursynów. Scope of services: • Orthodontics • Teeth Whitening • Cutting-edge prosthetics
• Dental surgery and maxillofacial implants • Conservative treatment, cosmetic dentistry
• Treatment of children • Root canal treatment of teeth using traditional microscopic • X-ray lab
Żoliborz: ul. Duchnicka 3 bud.4, entrance A • Ursynów: Nowoursynowska 145 E (entrance from ul. Rosoła), www.odent.pl, tel. 22 405 44 30
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in the city
Originally rectangular, as opposed to triangular, and nearly twice its current size, Rynek Nowego Miasto has always been the focal point of New Town. From 1408, when it was granted its own charter, Nowa Warszawa as it was known functioned independently from Warsaw. It wasn’t until 1791 that the settlement was incorporated into the city, a move which prompted the 1818 demolition of the town hall that had once formed the centerpiece of the Rynek. More destruction followed in the next century: the 1944 Warsaw Uprising saw the district come under heavy bombardment, resulting in wide scale devastation and massive casualties – on August 31st a direct hit on the domed St. Kazimerz Church killed a thousand civilians who had sought shelter inside. Originally built in 1688 to serve as a private residence, the church was rebuilt in the years following the war. So too was the rest of the square, with telltale Socialist Realist elements added: check the allegorical animals above the doorways. Other additions included the two stone bears, one with a Medusa on his shield, the other with a pharaoh. While the story behind these animals is unknown, the virgin and the unicorn on the nearby 19th century well hark to the time that this pair were the symbol of Nowa Warszawa.
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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
EXPLORING NEW TOWN
listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels
Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl
H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw
Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl
4-Star Hotels
Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl
Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl
apartments
InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.
B&B
Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu
Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com
Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl
Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com
Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl
Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www.warsawplazahotel.pl
car rental
3-Star Hotels
Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com
Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl
Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000
Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, www.trustrentacar.pl www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / in the city RESIDENTS relocation companies
porting them to their guarded warehouse. They’ll also the supply the storage bins which typically fit 90 books, 100 t-shirts, 90 jumpers. Larger items like bikes, suitcases can also be left with them.
Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com
pets
AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200 DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com
Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.
Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.
storage Wiecej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, www.wiecejmiejsca.pl A new storage service that will even go so far as to pick up your items for you and trans-
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Bone Pet Club ul. Jedności 118, tel. 507 144 044, petclub.pl Dogs, cats, rabbits, rodents, birds and many other pets are welcomed inside this ‘hotel and spa’ designed exclusively for their use. Facilities include grooming, lodging, pool, pet taxis and socialization classes. All pet sitters speak fluent English.
polish for foreigners
community Anglican Church in Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 62, tel. 880 580 628, anglicanchurch.pl English language services follow the order of the services of the Anglican Communion and are conducted by Rev. David Brown. Services are held each Sunday at 10:30 and 16:00. International Christian Fellowship ul. Puławska 326, icfwarsaw.org Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults. InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.
International Women’s Group of Warsaw Edu & More iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in IN JANUARY E-LEARNING ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22FOR 622 FREE!Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and Contact us for more details. 1441, eduandmore.comBusiness & everyday recreational activities. Meetings are held on Polish. Full-time courses and innovative the second and fourth Monday of the month. courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time Professionals in Warsaw courses get online course for free. meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL social life a jump start than popping along to FOR FOREIGNERS Klub Dialogu one of the informal drinks mixers conducted TAILOR-MADE individual and minigroup courses - intensive Y - ul. regular OrdynackaIN13/5, by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and JANUAR - weekend ING at the school or at your place tel. 664 788 004, foreigners of all backgrounds and professions E-LEARN ! First Lesson Free E E Free conversation classes FOR FR klubdialogu.pl are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your us ct www.klubdialogu.pl Conta details. own drinks. Search for them on facebook. info@klubdialogu.pl Outstanding programs for more for tel. 664 788 004 foreigners living in Poland offer a variety of courses St. Patrick’s Foundation aimed at every level. Using over ten years of www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on experience, the leaning process becomes an the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is adventure at Klub Dialogu. legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of Modern.edu School of Language the foundation, which distributes the funds Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 raised to various charities over the course of 85 14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, modern.edu. the year. pl. A wide range of Polish classes and customized courses at attractive prices - either in Taste of the Classics small groups or private classes. www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainSchola Polonica ment, held regularly in prime locations. ul. Jaracza 3, tel. 22 625 2652, schola.pl The events alternate between formal and Master Polish in a friendly atmosphere. All semi-formal dress and are held in English. levels catered for, with groups never going Attendance is by invitation and includes beyond a maximum of five people. dinner and wine.
listings / in the city Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00. Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction.
museums Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), Find vehicles of every description: Lech Wałesa’s Volvo, German wartime armor and a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special. Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable
objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing: Rudiments. This solo project by UK-based artist duo Adam Broomberg & Oliver Chanarin consists of a set of new photographic, moving image and performative works that collectively explore tensions between discipline and chance, precision and chaos, empathy and the involuntary pleasure of watching the pain of others. Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and
one of the city’s top secrets. Ongoing until October 18: First Photographers of Warsaw: Beyer, Brandel, Fajans. Ongoing to August 30: Tatra Atlantis. A photographic story that details how the Podhale region was changed irreversibly by the effects of industrial progress and mass tourism. The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation. If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most
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listings / in the city hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel. 606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by
the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see! Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street. Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl The first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary Polish and international art. Ongoing till August 23: Lest The Two Seas Meet. Inspired by the Arab Spring, presents the works of numerous international artists, among them Mona Hatoum, Emily Jacir and Walid Raad. Ongoing till August 23: After Year Zero. Explores the rise of two ‘curtains’ in the immediate postwar order – the Iron Curtain in Central Eastern Europe, and the Color Curtain in the post-colonial world.
Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for, not to mention hilarious TVs from days yore. National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing until September 6: The Pope of the Avant-Garde. Tadeusz Peiper in Spain, Poland and Europe. The exhibition presents the relationship between avant-garde art and literature of the early 20th century, taking the oeuvre of Tadeusz Peiper as its central point. The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s. Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multi-
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listings / in the city media exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion a nd occupation. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.
WARS – Polish rail’s buffet division? Outside, stroll around a remarkable collection of beasts outside. These include a 1942 German armored train – apparently the only one of its type surviving in Europe – not to mention the personal carriage of Bolesław Bierut (Poland’s post-war leader), the rusting carcass of a 60s train and interwar steam engines straight out of Thomas the Tank Engine. The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower, and don’t miss the garden outside with it’s preserved Tobruk bunker.
Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, muzkol.pl Presented in scale model form, in here find hundreds of trains detailing the development of the Polish rail network. Not interested? Then maybe the three model railway villages will stir childhood memories or how about learning about
Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl An unexpectedly amazing museum that’s been turned around thanks to its ambitious, young staff. Once a dank, dusty space, the reinvention includes ‘the room of one object’, whose single exhibit changes each month. There’s the New Varsovians exhibition, dedicated to the young students who arrived to Warsaw in the 1860s and 70s, and the Wola Laboratory, a multimedia exhibition with a focus on the district. All this new wave gadgetry is to be augmented by real objects on the first floor, not to mention an archive of amateur film – the first such archive in Poland Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Probably the most famous gallery in Poland, this Zachęta has a thrilling, and at times controversial repertoire that makes it a must for modern art buffs. Ongoing till August 16: Filko – Fylko – Phylko. The different stages of Stano Filko’s life are covered in what is being lauded as the most extensive presentation of this Slovakian artist’s life ever to be seen in Poland. Ongoing: John Lurie – I am trying to think. Please be quiet. So they say: ‘this presentation of contemporary works by John Lurie constitutes an attempt to reconsider this ’90s icon, to confront this image and show the artist in a new light.’ Ongoing: Wild West. History of Wrocław Avant Garde. Nearly 500 works covering the architecture, urbanism, cultural and everyday life of Wrocław from the 1960s to the the present day.
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LOOKING BACK
Above Water
H
ow many bridges are there in Warsaw? Go on, have a guess. The surprising answer is that there are as many as ten. Most people would probably mention the Poniatowski, Świętokrzyski, Śląsko-Dąbrowski, Łazienkowski and Gdański bridges as the main ones. Some might also mention the pre-war Średnicowy rail bridge, the stunning Sierkiekowski suspension bridge and the two northern bridges: the functional Grot Rowecki and the recently opened Maria Słodowska-Curie. What’s the tenth one? Well, alert readers will point out that right alongside the Gdański bridge is the Citadel rail bridge, mainly used by goods wagons and local passenger trains. The second bridge that was built after WWII was the Śląsko-Dąbrowski bridge, opened in 1949 and named to commemorate the contribution of miners and steelworkers from Silesia and the Dąbrowa region in the rebuilding of the capital after its destruction in the war. Built on the six pillars of the old Kierbedzia bridge, it links the Old Town with Praga and is an integral part of the massive Trasa W-Z post-war urban road development that created a 6.5-kilometre highway linking Wola with Praga and which ingeniously took road traffic away from the Old Town by sending in through a tunnel under Plac Zamkowy. The Trasa W-Z project included a socialist-realist set of three escalators taking pedestrians from the tram and bus stop on the viaduct leading to the bridge up to the ground
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floor of the famous rococo ‘John’ tenement house. The Russian-built ‘moving staircase’ was quite simply a sensation when it opened and it wasn’t only children who would delight in going up and down it time and again. Other elements of the fascinating post-war reshaping of the east-west corridor included two cinemas, Kino W-Z at the Wola end and Kino Praha, both now closed and demolished, the shifting of a whole church by 20 metres to make way for the widening of Aleje Świerczewskiego (now Al. Solidarności) and the bear pen by the zoo in Praga, adored by Varsovians and hated by environmentalists in equal measure. The new bridge replaced the one opened in 1864 designed by Stanisław Kierbedź – an impressive six-span construction with an enclosed grillwork tunnel for horsedrawn trams, pedestrians and later cars. It was blown up in 1915 by the retreating Russians and patched up in 1916 by the Germans, then blown up again in 1944, this time by the retreating Germans. A plaque on the new bridge commemorates the deaths of Zbigniew Gęsicki (a.k.a Juno) and Kazimierz Sott (a.k.a Sokół), members of the Home Army’s elite anti-Gestapo Agat unit who jumped from the Kierbedzia bridge on 1 February 1944 when fleeing from the Germans after being involved in the successful assassination of Franz Kutschera, the brutal head of the SS and Reich’s Police in Warsaw.
PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK
It’s the bridge everybody knows but that nobody remembers: but Śląsko-Dąbrowski bridge has a background every bit as compelling as the Old Town right by it. BY STUART DOWELL
Always something new Tables: +48 694 413 439 platinium@platiniumclub.pl 6, Fredy Street, Warsaw www.platiniumclub.pl /platiniumclubpl Door selection Dress code: casual elegant