Warsaw Insider May 2016 #237

Covering Warsaw Since 1996!

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May 05 price zĹ&#x201A;.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(237)

2016

(VAT 8% included)

MAY 2016 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

of seven dog years, then just what is it in terms of publishing years? I ask only to point out the occasion of the Insider’s 20th birthday. For any magazine to make it to that landmark is cause for a toast; to do so on foreign soil, and in an age where print has already supposedly kicked the bucket, makes the achievement all the more finer. It’s only right, therefore, to thank all of you who make our continued existence possible. In respect of the past, we’ve largely dedicated this edition to the naughty nineties: a time when Warsaw was an eyesore but promised plenty of misadventure – consider this issue a celebration of those wild, wacky years. Further, we’ve had a poke around ‘the Polish Colosseum’, explored the catacombs of the Palace of Culture and sneaked up the gangplank leading to the Titanic exhibition. And, this being the Insider, there’s been a little time set aside for lots of food and drink. Hope you enjoy it, and see you next month…

INFRONT

Opener 7 News 8 City Market 10

FEATURES

Nineties: First Warsaw Insider 12 Nineties: Flashback 14 Nineties: Lads Night Out 20 Nineties: Architecture 22 Urban Exploration: Gasworks 26 Exhibition: Titanic 28

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Urban Exploration: PKiN 30

LISTINGS

Restaurants 50 Cafes & Wine Bars 80 Nightlife 85 Shopping 94 Family 99 Health & Beauty 104 In the City 107

REVIEWS

Radio Telewizja 35 Edamame Vegan Sushi 36

Warburger na Talerzu 37 Bazar Kocha 38 2Koła Pub Motocyklowy 40 Fat Cat Chicken Spot 41

PARTNER NEWS

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 42

INBACK

Map 110 Looking Back 112

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com enior Key Account Manager S A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAFTel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2016 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover A piece of cake! Our cover artist has given us a helping hand to celebrate 20 years of business… (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

If one year is the equivalent

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM BURBERRY CHILDREN DOLCE & GABBANA KIDS DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

this month...

Run

CONCERT

Every Sat, 9:00 @ Praga (Park Skaryszewski), Ursynów (park next to Bazantarnia), Żoliborz (Kępa Potocka park), Bródno (Park Bródnowski) Improve your run time by participating in the 5k Parkrun held across four locations each Saturday. Unlike the timed races you get in Warsaw, taking part in this one is free of charge.

13 May, 19:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 7/9 Pittsburgh rapper Mac Miller, a.k.a. Delusional Thomas, Larry Lovestein and The Velvet Revival, is perhaps best known for his 2011 debut album Blue Slide Park – a No. 1 hit on the U.S. billboard chart.

Parkrun

For info see: parkrun.pl

Food

Targ Śniadaniowy Sat or Sun @ various locations Much more than the breakfast market it modestly bills itself as, this magical open air / covered spot is a bit of everything: a food market, a picnic, even a place to get your bike fixed. Locations include Żoliborz, Powiśle, Ursynów and Mokotów. For further info, see: targsniadaniowy.pl

RUN

Constitution Run 3 May, 11:00 @ Agrykola The 25th edition of this annual 5K run celebrates the 1791 Constitution of the Third of May. Expected to draw thousands, the route passes Łazienki, parliament and Ujazdowskie Castle.

One to Watch Konono No. 1 Drawing largely on Bazombo trance music, Konono No. 1’s arrival in Poland coincides with the release of their first album in five years! 22-23 May, Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16

For registration see: aktywnawarszawa. waw.pl

FAMILY EVENT

CULTURE

Night of the Museums 14-15 May @ various locations Over 200 institutions, including galleries, museums, theatres and government buildings will open throughout the night enabling anyone in Warsaw to venture inside free of charge. It’s one of Warsaw’s best loved cultural events though, as per usual, no information was available at press time.

CONCERT

Freddie Mercury Rock Opera 14 May, 18:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 7/9 A celebration of the one and only Mr. Mercury. Reprising Queen’s greatest hits, this rock opera tribute has been described as ‘innovative and original’ and promises to be an unforgettable night for fans of this bona fide legend. Tickets from zł. 119 @ ebilet.pl

FESTIVAL

7 May @ National Stadium, ul. Poniatowskiego 1 Apparently, the largest science-related open-air event in Europe! Expect scores of interactive displays and hands-on experiments as presented by dozens of international research units and cultural institutions.

18-22 May @ Kino Muranów, ul. Andersa 5 In its twelfth year, the Jewish Motifs Festival aims to ‘propagate awareness of centuries of Jewish tradition through the medium of film.’

SKATING

Night Skating

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Ticket details unavailable at press time

Science Picnic

For more info, check: www.pikniknaukowy.eu

Mac Miller

Jewish Motifs Film Festival

For details, see: jewishmotifs.org.pl

CONCERT

Chopin in the Park

12 & 26 May Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 18km route. Starting at 21:00, usually by the Copernicus Monument on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the mass skate concludes at round about 23:00.

22 & 29 May, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-edged gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract hundreds, sometimes thousands.

For details see: nightskating.waw.pl

For details, see lazienki-krolewskie.pl/en

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town POLIN MUSEUM & EMYA IN NUMBERS!

100

Million dollars

The estimated cost of the museum

Million

Visitors since its launch

80,000

Documented objects Form Polin’s collection

12,800 Square meters

Total usable space of Polin

4,000 Square meters

The footprint of the exhibition

2007 LOCAL

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

Europe’s Top Museum!

Two years after first opening its doors to the public, the Polin Museum of the History of Polish Jews has been recognized as the best museum on the continent after scooping the top prize at the European Museum of the Year awards. Held in April in San Sebastian, Spain, the Warsaw-based museum fought off competition from a shortlist of 49 nominees to land the prestigious EMYA trophy. Established in 1977 under the auspices of the Council of Europe, the EMYA aims to reward museums that ‘contribute most directly to attracting audiences and satisfying visitors through their unique atmosphere, imaginative interpretation and presentation, and creative approach to education and social responsibility.’ Past winners have included Britain’s Victoria & Albert Museum, Bilbao’s Guggenheim Museum and the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. In a statement released by the adjudication panel, Polin was cited for its cohesive approach to such a weighty subject matter: “For a very large and diverse audience Polin serves as an absorbing place to confront and examine the perpetually relevant questions of how a co-existence, however fraught, can suddenly transfigure into an absolute rupture and into the near eradication of a whole population and destruction of a culture.”

The year

The cornerstone was laid on Polin

Museums

Nominated by the EMYA

Countries

Represented at the EMYA

Polish museums

Nominated at the EMYA

www.warsawinsider.pl

inFront

news

500 Thousand flowers

News Flash

Total number of flowers to be added this year

275

Thousand złoty

120 Thousand flowers

To be added this spring

Thousand flowers

Planted in Saski Gardens

CITY

Warsaw in Bloom

Once regarded as something of a grey and gloomy city, efforts to beautify Warsaw have been considerable over the years. Few initiatives, however, have been as successful as the scheme to turn the city into a riot of color through the addition of thousands of flowers and plants. Overseen by the ZOM public authority, their efforts saw over a million bulbs planted in 2014. This year, thousands more are set to be added in a bid to lend life and color to the city’s landscape. FILM

Thousand flowers

Planted in Park Ujazdowski

6.6

Thousand flowers

Added by Central Station

Thousand flowers

Planted by St. Florian’s Cathedral

^ EMarek delman Returns! Edelman is back on the

walls of Muranów two years after a mural celebrating his life was controversially destroyed. Now, artist Dariusz Paczkowski has reprised his work on the side of the school at ul. Karmelicka 26. Edelman, who died in 2009, is best known for assuming leadership of the 1943 Ghetto Uprising after Mordechai Anielewicz committed suicide.

• Support P laytime! is growing for a playground like no other: targeted specifically at adults, the 300 sq/m project would include trampolines, swings, hammocks and slides. Money for the investment, priced at over zł. 200,000, would be channelled from Warsaw’s public participatory budget. “Fun,” say the team behind it, “shouldn’t end with childhood.”

• AS decree crubbing Up that makes it possible for

bus and tram drivers to remove passengers who ‘arouse disgust’ is set to be amended four years after its original adoption. Previously, the law had stated that those emitting ‘revolting smells’ could face ejection; now, the law is set to change to cover those who ‘fail to observe elementary hygiene’.

Wola 1935 A nine-minute film that recreates pre-war Wola using sophisticated 3D graphics has been released to coincide with the 100th anniversary of the district’s absorption into Warsaw. See the stunning work for yourself by searching for Warszawa 1935 Wola. A similar film dedicated to Praga is said to be in the pipeline. 8 Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

PHOTOGRAPH TOP LEFT SHUTTERSTOCK, RIGHT ALEX WEBBER

The sum spent on flowers this spring

inFront

market

Corner The Market

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

A direct result of the capital’s ‘participatory budget’, the opening of a new farmers’ market in the south east corner of Pl. Konstytucji has been cited as further evidence that the people of Warsaw are reclaiming patches of their city. Held each Tuesday and Thursday, the Zielony MDM market launched in early April following widespread approval in a public poll held last year. Aiming to provide a valid alternative to the omnipresent supermarket, the 16 stalls currently in operation specialize in locally grown fruit and veg, as well as baked and dairy produce. Organizers have promised to expand the market’s size should it prove successful, and plans are already being discussed for similar projects in Muranów and Powiśle.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

STAT BOX

2,000

The number of people who voted for the realization of the market

600

Square meters: the area that the market will finally cover

30-40

The number of stalls that are eventually envisaged

THE NINETIES WARSAW INSIDER PREMIER ISSUE

Founding Father

Stefan Bielski, the Warsaw Insider’s original publisher, spills the beans on how the magazine came to be…

• Creating the Insider was more than an accident, but much less than a plan. There was both the pull and the push. The pull: Warsaw, the biggest city between Berlin and Moscow, was starting to boom, but it was hard to live there. The only things it had that could be called ‘city magazines’ were a couple of thin A4-sized free monthlies: both were awful. The push was I was tired of being a staff writer and looking for something more. I was looking for a project of my own that I could steadily, consistently build. • My idea, rather naive, was that I, the history major and ex-journo, would edit the magazine and I would find a ‘business guy’ with the necessary acumen to do the ‘business stuff’. Although I had hardly any money to invest, quitting my job was a good signal that I wasn’t just talking. After hearing my pitch, someone said he was interested in investing and it was then that I began to realize that I would have to become that ‘business guy’ I had been looking for. A friend, Kevin Leech, said he was interested in getting involved and I began to realize he would be a better editor than I would. Plus, I could then focus on the ever-widening range of ‘business stuff’.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

• It certainly took a while to reach the right name, though the details are fuzzy. As the concept evolved we tried some ideas (e.g. Warsaw Handbook as we wanted it to be portable). We also looked for an English equivalent of informator that wasn’t clunky. I think that helped lead us to Insider, as the logo had lower-case, serif font suggestive of the “i” symbol then ubiquitous for informacja. Of course, Insider conveyed much more. There’s considerable irony, as of course we were outsiders in Poland, yet knew more than most of our readers. So, the name played with the mix of experience and naiveté, of knowledge and fresh eyes. • We had to get approval and register our editor with the foreign ministry as we were ‘foreign’ run, and presumably our restaurant reviews would threaten national security. Just getting phone lines and internet (dial-up, of course) was difficult, and call quality often suffered during/after rain, as many wires were insulated with paper during Martial Law. • I remember a senior advertising exec who was certain he knew the Hong Kong version of the Insider. I didn’t correct him, but probed him further with questions, like how we captured the local flavor, etc. It was clear he thought we were part of a worldwide brand, well-run and funded, instead of bootstrapping amateurs. It was probably then, that I realized we did it well and would survive. Though even then, had I been told how much print publications and other media would be disrupted by the internet, I don’t think I would have assumed it would last 20 years. • Our office for the first six months was inside my kawalerka on Al. Jerozolimskie, with the requisite kanapka that I had to turn from bed to sofa every day for when people came over. It was a dump, though pop singer Edyta Górniak lived across the hall from me till she got a big record deal. • I felt our readers were leading Poland’s reintegration into Western economic, cultural, and political communities. Our job at the Insider was to integrate them into the artistic, culinary life of their adopted home: Poland’s capital and largest city.

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Benihana Restaurant – Japanese cuisine, teppan grill and sushi ul. Twarda 4 (Cosmopolitan Tower), www.benihanapoland.com, reservations: tel. 22 370 2620, restauracja@benihanapoland.com

THE NINETIES FLASHBACK From left: see you in the Panorama Bar! Alain Robert conquers the Marriott; Legia fans torch their own ground… again.

CMY

As the Insider celebrates twenty years of life, we take a look back at 20 things that made the 90s such a decade to remember BY ALEX WEBBER

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Who Wants To Be A Millionaire

Prior to the 1995 redenomination of the złoty, Warsaw was one big millionaires club. But with hyper-inflation brought to heel, the post-communist government opted to make life a little more practical, but a lot less fun, by chopping four zeroes off the złoty, thereby ending the days of one and two million złoty banknotes.

Wacko Jacko

Seized by a wave of general mass hysteria, Michael Jackson’s 1996 visit to Warsaw brought the capital to a standstill. Having taken an unlikely shine to the country (“I’d love to live here,” he declared), the King of Pop returned the following year, this time with a shopping list that included the Bristol Hotel. That deal eventually fell through, and so too did plans to sink half a billion dollars into creating a theme park at Bemowo airfield.

Shipshape & Bristol Fashion

Five years after her first visit to Poland, Margaret Thatcher returned to Warsaw in 1993 to cut the ribbon on the revamped Bristol Hotel. After decades of neglect (author Timothy Garton Ash famously described a moribund hotel complete with an emaciated cat sloping outside the kitchen), the Grande Dame of Polish hotels was back from the brink.

Spider-Man

On his first trip behind the former Iron Curtain, Alain Robert took one look at the Palace of Culture and decided scaling it would be too easy. Instead, he opted to climb the Marriott, something he achieved in less than 20 minutes. Speaking of his 1999 ascent, the French ‘SpiderMan’ recalls being met at the top by grinning cops: “they didn’t speak a word of English, but at least they were friendly.”

PHOTOGRAPHS PAP

The Past Is A Foreign Country…

THE NINETIES FLASHBACK Drinking on the job? No problem! Was it ever a surprise the Metro took so long to complete?

While Polish football basks in the rosy after-glow of Euro 2012, you don’t have to travel far back to remember when going to the match was a hair razing experience. Best remembered is the Battle of Saski Park, which pitted heavily armed Polish hooligans against their English counterparts in 1999. “I was accidentally caught up in it and ended up in hospital,” confides one Insider, “I was running away from a nutter with a machete and sprinted head first into a lamppost!”

The Big Sleazy

The 90s were a decade in which the city’s moral compass went haywire – sleaze was everywhere, not least in the form of grubby peepshows and sweaty brothels shoehorned into tiny apartments. “As a young expat male,” remembers one reader, “I knew I’d love this city when my prospective boss told me to meet him in

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Arena strip club for my job interview: turns out he was a regular at their Wednesday mud-wrestling nights!”

A Dog’s Dinner

There are those who view Pl. Konstytucji as one of Warsaw’s great missed opportunities: what could be a lively piazza instead presents itself as an ugly concrete carpark. Amazingly, that’s a marked improvement: in the 90s this area was a minefield of Vietnamese fast food cabins selling meat of unqualified origin at rock bottom prices.

Mafia Wars

Whilst Poland never quite sank to the levels of lawlessness seen in Russia, the mafia wars of the 90s were a bloody affair defined by the murderous rivalry between gangs representing Pruszków and Wołomin. Under the leadership of figureheads such as Masa, Pershing

and Kiełbasa, car chases, ambushes and tit-for-tat shootings were commonplace – among them a high profile execution in TGI Friday’s.

Free Market Economics

Nowhere else better demonstrated the wild capitalism that swept Poland than ‘the Russian Market’. Sprawling around the abandoned shell of the 10th Anniversary Stadium (bulldozed in 2008 to make way for the National Stadium), Europe’s largest open air bazar was a haven of illicit trade: pirated DVDs, Soviet military hardware, hazardous electrical appliances, general junk and counterfeit goods courtesy of brands such as Dolce & Banana.

Are You Being Served?

If you find customer service a little lacking in Poland, then how about a trip back in time? “I’ve had boiling water

PHOTOGRAPHS PAP

It’s A Riot

THE NINETIES FLASHBACK

Paddy’s Day

Boisterous and bacchanalian, Warsaw’s clutch of Irish pubs were installed as the center of expat high jinks. Nowhere more so than the murky, mucky Morgan’s, a dungeon-like space beneath the Chopin Museum. Ruled by the inimitable Ollie, the pub wasn’t just an assembly point for Warsaw’s misfits and financial mercenaries, but an anchor for the community: the Patrick’s Day street parades organized in the late 90s are the stuff of legend.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

The Darkness

If modern Warsaw gleams and glitters, then it was the complete opposite in the 90s. “My overriding memory is of just how pitch black the city was at night,” says one associate, “the pavements would chew up your shoes within a month, and there were piles of dog droppings everywhere: you’d fear the thaw when the melting snow would reveal a new harvest of frozen poo.”

Overtime

Better late than never. Conceived in 1918, it wasn’t until 1995 that Warsaw’s first metro line opened. Comprising 11 stations and rolling stock gifted by Russia, pictures from the period depict Kabaty – the final stop – as little more than open muddy fields. Contrast that to the busy dormitory suburb it is nowadays

90s Sounds

If there was a soundtrack to the 90s, then it would surely be the Disco Polo music found thumping out from the tinny sound systems of Warsaw’s clubs, taxis and new born TV stations. A grisly fusion of drum machines, Italo Disco and country bumpkin folk sounds, the standard of the music was matched only by horrific videos featuring curvy, sunbed models prancing around against a grey Baltic skyline.

Best of the West?

Warsaw’s first McDonald’s opened in 1992: such was the public’s reaction some people brought flowers for the staff, others dressed up in suits for the occasion. But if there was a red letter day with regards to the entry of Western brands, it was the 1990 launch of IKEA in Ursynów. Thousands turned up to simply

PHOTOGRAPHS PAP

tipped on me by a drunken waitress,” remembers one subscriber, “and been physically menaced by a waiter who demanded a bigger tip. One time, in an effort to impress with his attentiveness, a server didn’t leave my table for the duration of an entire date: service in those days was complete chaos.”

From left: fun for all of the family at Cricoland; Warsaw stops for Jacko; mobile peep shows - because anything that was sleazy seemed a good idea.

covet the furniture, marking the start of a love affair that continues to this day.

Cricoland!

The moment communism fell the concrete wasteland around the Palace of Culture was transformed into a riot of color with traders hawking all kinds of wares from unlicensed stalls. Among all that, the decorative bauble was the Cricoland fair, a vulgar collection of loud rides and whirring lights: as cheap as it looked, it seemed to scream, “forget all that communist stuff we just lived through, let’s have some fun!”

Spring Fever

The first day of Spring was big news, with free concerts traditionally taking place in Agrykola through the 90s: essentially this was a day for adolescents to skip school, wear

flamboyant clothes, smoke weed and get drunk. Frequently, the shenanigans would end with mounted police galloping in to disperse the unruly teens – today’s generation doesn’t know what it’s missing!

On The Road

You knew you were in a different country just by the state of the cars on the roads: “if the police tried to stop me for speeding,” confesses an Insider, “I’d simply out-run them.” With roads pockmarked with potholes and puddles, it was like a demolition derby at times with filthy Ikarus buses and tiny Polonez’s screeching around as if partaking in competition. If the streets and vehicles have improved, at least the drivers haven’t.

The High Life

Choices in terms of nightlife were scant, but those venues

that did pass muster find themselves remembered to this day: Fugazi, the cradle of Polish rock, where regulars would reputedly sleepover in coffins; Akwarium, still considered the best jazz bar the country has ever had; and, in later years, expat joints such as the Pink Club in the British Embassy, the Cork Irish Pub and of course the Sheraton’s Someplace Else.

The Insider!

In May 1996 the first issues of the Insider rolled-off the printing press. The city, in fact Poland – many editions were delivered to towns so small they weren’t on the map – had not seen its like before: strongly independent and fiercely critical, it wasn’t so much a city magazine as it was a keep-at-all-costs survival manual. Twenty years on, and with 237 issues under the belt, we’re still

around and stronger than ever!

www.warsawinsider.pl

THE NINETIES LADS NIGHT OUT

What Memories Are Made Of...

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Flipping through its little, black address book, the Insider rallies four long-term expats to roll back the years and celebrate the glory years of the 90sâ&#x20AC;Ś

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

• Prior to arriving in Warsaw in 1993 I’d been working in the Caribbean. In those times the winter here was properly harsh, -20 something with snow piled a meter high, so even the weather was a shock. I was working as a chef and I got picked up from the airport by my boss who was really excited about a brilliant new restaurant that had opened not long back: it turned out to be McDonald’s! I thought, bloody hell, that’s my executive chef! But it goes to show just how far behind Warsaw was in terms of eating out. • Bananas were still a luxury. There’d be a guy on Nowy Świat selling them from a box. When I was living in Barbados we had a pet monkey called Momo who would climb the trees and bring bananas back home – now I was queueing up for them to buy off some guy on the street. It’s no wonder that my wife wanted a divorce. But I’ve got to say, this was a great country to get divorced in! • Most of the clientele in the restaurants were expats, especially the ethnic restaurants. They knew the food. Now, the market has completely changed. Poles have learnt about food, they’re the main customers and the audience restaurateurs need to appeal to. • Every restaurant, even those with gourmet aspirations, would serve a fanned, tinned peach on the plate. It was seen as exotic, as a sign of class. The food was greasy, heavy and there was no concept of freshness. It was a battle getting produce, and there were several times when I’d rely on my customers to bring ingredients back to Poland whenever they went away. • I’m pretty sure we held Warsaw’s first Halloween party. It was 1995 I think, and it was a nightmare finding somewhere to host it: when eventually I did find somewhere, the venue wanted money up front, so did the staff. Even finding pumpkins was tough work. I’d all but given up when I was driving down some side street and saw this guy selling 15 or so. “I’ll take all of them,” I told him. “No,” he answered, “I can’t sell you all because then I won’t have anything left to sell myself.” That summed up some of the attitudes of the time! • There was a sense you were all in it together. I’d cold call CEOs and company directors and I’d get invited around for a personal audience simply on the strength of being from the same country. “Wow, you’re from so-and-so as well,” they’d say, “come right on over!” The ex-pat community really helped each other out back then. • Before the EU it was so easy to get staff: I once put an ad in the paper for waiters and waitresses and got 1,000 responses. In those days it was a prestigious job with big tips and perks. Now everyone wants to be a chef or one of those bartenders with funny hair and tattoos. • In those times if you went to the toilet in a restaurant or club you’d have to pay a token fee to use the toilets – imagine that, you’ve spent zł. 500 on food but you’re still expected to pay another 50 groszy to use the toilet! At one party I went to the expat organizers ended up hiring this little old lady to hand out coins so guests would be able to go to the toilet without having to worry about having the right change.

There was a sense you were all in it together – the expat community really helped each other out... People didn’t have much, but you could sense they were happier. They weren’t spoiled by cars, houses, money and the whole consumer culture. I think since joining the EU the Polish people have picked up a lot of bad habits, and violence is among them. Poland is still very safe, but you see more and more violence in the bars and on the streets. In the 90s if ever there was any trouble all you had to do was threaten to shoot the other person and the situation would calm down straight away! • I always kept a wad of ‘bribe money’ on me just in case – if you were getting a train to somewhere like Kraków, it’d actually be cheaper to not bother with a ticket and just bribe the guard if ever he came round. • Things have changed a lot, and not just for the better. I’ve noticed that Poles are losing that sense of family character. In the old days they were a real unit, a team. They’d go out mushrooming together, picking berries or whatever fruit was in season. Now they just go to the supermarket. It’s sad to see old family values and traditions eroded like that. • The apartment keys were huge! You’d have five sets of keys, each absolutely gigantic. People really did think the bigger the key then the stronger the lock. There’d be these old elevators that would sink whenever you stepped in, and they were usually pitch black – people would steal the bulbs to use at home! I once saw a guy selling burnt bulbs on Pl. Konstytucji and couldn’t figure out why – when I asked him he said people bought them so when they went to work they could steal the office bulbs and replace them with a broken one! • It’s definitely more of a professional city. In the past you’d see people drinking vodka on the commute to work. You honestly had to train people to answer the phone: there’d be phones ringing all the time but receptionists would just ignore them because they were busy nattering away on another line to their friend. • One of my worst memories is the toilet paper – it’d rip you to shreds! I actually called my mum once and said, “look, I have this big problem, please, you have to send me toilet paper.” But even picking it up was a disaster – I had to sign for it at the airport, trying to make myself understood and explain why I had parcels of toilet paper waiting for me. Of course, by the time I got to work the next day everyone knew what had happened. • It still surprises how much the locals knew about their city. They’d always be telling you the story behind this and that. I can’t imagine even knowing half of what they knew about my hometown. It demonstrated a real pride in their capital. www.warsawinsider.pl

THE NINETIES ARCHITECTURE Perfectly formed, the BUW library building is commonly considered as one of the hits of the 90s.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Clockwise from top: Warsaw Trade Tower, an ageless beauty; Nautilus, voted ‘building of the decade’; Warsaw Financial Centre, standing the test of time.

HEROES & Villains

Cursed by many for its indiscriminate style, this issue the Insider looks to celebrate the unpredictable architecture of 90s Warsaw… BY ALEX WEBBER

hey were the strangest of times, the nineties, and the legacy of the uninhibited capitalism that replaced the communist system best manifests itself today in the form of the buildings that shot up during this decade of transition. With the state’s watchful eye moved to other, more pressing issues, architects found themselves handed a carte blanche where it came to design: if there were limits, these were imposed by developers and investors, and frequently their guidance didn’t go far beyond instructions to build something that was as noticeable as possible, for as little as they could get away with. The result has been a city littered with vanity projects and low-cost solutions aimed at satisfying what were the immediate needs of a ravenous market. “After communism there was a lack of residential planning, a lack of orientation and vision,” says architect Jakub Szczęsny, “Poland was forced to sink or swim so we went from communism to some wild South Americanstyle of capitalism during which architects were designing whatever the private sector wanted.” Conversely, there were triumphs as well, buildings that have stood

the test of time and architects that emerged from the period with soaring reputations. For all the good, and for all the bad, Warsaw would never be the same again. If there are villains to this story, then few cast a shadow as dark as the Millennium Plaza (Al. Jerozolimskie 123). Designed by Turkish entrepreneur and architect Vahap Toy, it found itself derided from the start. Cloaked in blue glass and white cladding, its awkward oblong shape earned it the name Toi Toi, a twin reference to both its designer and the portable toilet firm. Completed in 1999, and measuring approximately 115 meters in height, the tower has come to symbolize the unchecked horror of 90s aesthetics. Fortunately, somewhat, Toy’s visa was never renewed, spelling a prompt end to a half-mad plan to build ‘the Polish Las Vegas’ in Biała Podlaska. Close by, the Central Tower (Jerozolimskie 81) typifies the 90s rush to squeeze in as much rentable office space as possible with over 85% of the floor plan originally designated for offices. Initially slated to stand 20-storeys high, the removal of restrictions saw another six floors lopped haphazardly on top. Nevertheless, a program to update the building has been successful, and that’s www.warsawinsider.pl

THE NINETIES ARCHITECTURE

Clockwise from top: ghastly Gargamelizm on ul. Twarda; the Europlex stands on history; Central Tower, at last without its pink tiled trimmings.

included the relatively recent removal of the salmon pink tiling that once adorned the exterior in Tetris-like blocks. Yet not all of Warsaw’s mistakes are prominent on the skyline. Looking increasingly out-of-sorts with its neighbors, the box-shaped Europlex (Puławska 17) is one of modern Warsaw’s biggest regrets: not so much in practical terms – the building is deservedly popular with its numerous tenants – but sentimental. It took the place of Kino Moskwa, a 1950s cinema that became globally famous during Martial Law in 1981: with Warsaw in military lockdown, award-winning photographer Chris Niedenthal covertly snapped an iconic picture of an armored personnel carrier standing in front of a billboard advertising screenings of Apocalypse Now. While many of Warsaw’s eyesores took their cue from splashy western styles, a bizarre, new movement unique to Poland also took root. Gargamelizm – so-called after the garish castle in The Smurfs – saw architects lose all common sense and become obsessed with turrets and gaudy accoutrements. Applauded by the nouveau riche who hailed it as the pinnacle of good taste, examples of this school of design number the building on the corner of Twarda and Sienna. Crowned with two startling towers, some people still wonder how it ever found itself nominated as Building of the Year. Yet compared to the Czarny Kot Hotel (Okopowa 65), it’s piecemeal. Brimming with decorative archways and stone animals, there is no better example of the insanity of the 90s. Unsurprisingly, much of the Black Cat was built without permis-

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

sion, and its future is now uncertain. Architecturally speaking, heroes from the 90s are in the minority, however, they are not completely absent. Eighteen years after its completion, the 165-meter Warsaw Financial Center (E. Plater 53), apparently inspired by Chicago’s 333 Wacker Drive (you’ll know it, it’s where Ferris Bueller’s dad worked!), repeatedly finds itself mentioned as Warsaw’s best skyscraper; meanwhile, the 1999 Warsaw Trade Tower is still toasted for its quirky tubular design. Although both of the aforementioned were foreign-led schemes, Polish architects also started demonstrating their skillset. Prolific in his output, Marek Budzyński was responsible for the Supreme Court (Pl. Krasińkich) and the BUW Library (Dobra 56/66), creations that have been as popular with the public as they have been with the critics. See for yourself by visiting the magnificent rolling rooftop garden that straddles the latter. Of equal importance, Stefan Kuryłowicz was the face behind Nautilus (Nowogrodzka 11), a stunning outward leaning office block that was deservedly named Warsaw’s ‘Building of the 90s’. Kurylowicz died in a plane crash five years back, but his studio continues to pepper Warsaw with architecture that compels (e.g. Plac Unii, Q22, Wolf Bracka). It is true that the architecture of the 90s was at times incoherent and absurd – but so too was the city. The buildings that were bestowed upon Warsaw during this chapter speak of an era; a time that was both bonkers and beautiful. Just maybe, it’s time to acknowledge that.

Pride comes before a fall: Vahap Toyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Millennium Plaza was the businessmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s single-handed attempt to vandalize the skyline.

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URBAN EXPLORATION GASWORKS

Out Of Gas

Empty for nearly forty years, the city’s former gas tanks on ul. Kasprzaka are a spooky flashback to the industrial age… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

ules are there to be broken. Write ‘Do Not Enter’ in big, red letters and, invariably, people will. However, in the case of Warsaw’s old gasworks, such an infraction goes way beyond the vicarious thrill of flouting authority. Composed of two derelict rotundas, and widely known as ‘Wola’s Colosseum’, these twin giant gas tanks would surely merit a feature in any rundown of Warsaw’s Seven Wonders. Completed in 1888, three years after the city’s first gaslights were installed, their purpose was simple: to keep the town supplied with gas. Employing over 1,200 people, they continued to do so right up until September 8th, 1939, when a German artillery shell

hit a tank holding 23,000 cubic meters of gas. Wisely, the gas supply was shut off before anything went boom. The tanks resumed production in June 1945, and remained in service until 1978. Since then, these remarkable urban phantoms have been allowed to slide into decay. At one stage, plans were mooted to house the Uprising Museum inside these towering hulks, whilst other proposals have included transforming them into luxury flats (thereby mimicking a similar development in Vienna). None of these ideas have come to fruit, and activists are growing increasingly concerned that by the time a resolution is found the structures will be beyond the point of rescue.

The Insider neither encourages nor endorses their exploration: not only is the site patrolled by unsympathetic security goons, one urban legend goes so far as to claim that a WWII booby trap survived the extensive post-war efforts to ‘demine’ the area – you enter at your own risk. For all that, gaining entrance is a cinch, which explains why you shouldn’t be surprised to run into adventurous photographers, rutting couples and weirdos in the bushes. Avoiding them – and treading very carefully – it’s possible to peer right inside these eerie wrecks. With shafts of light streaming through the windows, the effect isn’t unlike entering some ruined gothic masterpiece: serene, surreal and strangely unsettling... www.warsawinsider.pl

The Tip of The Iceberg

Still fascinating the world a century after its sinking, find the story of the Titanic retold via a globally acclaimed traveling exhibition…

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

ver 100 years since its sinking, no other maritime disaster has captivated the public in the same way as the Titanic’s ill-fated maiden voyage. Now, the people of Warsaw have their chance to get up close to Titanicrelated props and paraphernalia inside this traveling exhibition. Set in the slightly suffocating confines of the Palace of Culture, the experience takes visitors through five or six lifesize recreations of the ship’s interiors (corridors, cabins and the radio room), not to mention 200 items relating to the ship, its passengers and the White Star Line shipping company. In a token nod to Poland,

there’s even a copy of the first Polishlanguage book about the disaster. Although some visitors have expressed their disappointment at the relative paucity of artefacts from the ship itself, most agree that the exhibition is executed in a way that makes the most of the relics at hand and maintains interest throughout. A more relevant complaint, though, is the admission price: a whopping zł. 40-50 for adults and zł. 30-40 for under 18s. And don’t think you’re getting out of there without an armful of Titanic merchandise purchased for extra! For further info, check the official Polish-language website: titanic.cojestgrane24.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS COPYRIGHT ®MUSEALIA ENTERTAINMENT SL

EXHIBITION TITANIC

THE EXHIBITION IN PICTURES

(clockwise from top left) A recreation of a first class cabin. It’s about the only picture you’ll see of it: no photos allowed!; the sapphire necklace worn by survivor Kate Phillips. Her story is said to have been the loose inspiration behind James Cameron’s film; the shoes worn by Louise Kink on the night of the sinking: she was pictured wearing them after being rescued; a tiny fragment of the iconic ‘grand staircase’ in the first class section; Elin Gerda Lindell’s wedding ring. Her husband held onto it after she drowned but passed away himself through hypothermia. The ring was discovered at the bottom of a lifeboat months later…

www.warsawinsider.pl

URBAN EXPLORATION PALACE OF CULTURE

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

What Lies Beneath

The Insider explores the depths and nether regions of the Palace of Culture to uncover its truths and slay some myths… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

sk any foreigner about their first day in Warsaw and likely reminisces are prone to include that first stupefied sighting of the Palace of Culture. As far as initial responses go, ‘woah’ is certainly the most recurrent. I was much the same. Arriving at Centralna on the back of an overnight odyssey, I surfaced from the station’s Stygian underworld in a state of confusion. Surrounded by people talking in an angry babble, I tried to make sense of where I had arrived: none was forthcoming. Then, exiting Centralna, there it was stood out in front: the Palace of Culture. My disorientation was complete. The skyline was less crowded in those years, and the Palace pressed down on the city in much the same way as the charcoal-colored clouds.

As monstrous as it looked, it captivated me. It still does, but my experiences of it have not always been kind. In those first tentative days of living in the capital I joined a guided tour of it. Back then history was used as if it were a weapon against insomnia, and I listened with impatience as stats were reeled off at a rate previously unsurpassed. Those present that day can still parrot the data many years on: 42 floors, 237 meters tall, 3,288 rooms and 40 million bricks. Numbed by information, the mood of our group had turned mutinous by the end. Hoping for some light relief, a backpacker-type piped up to ask if there was any truth to the tale of saber-toothed cats running rampant in the basement: the tour guide stared him down in a manner that suggested he had just been threatened for his PIN code. Clearly, gossip and www.warsawinsider.pl

URBAN EXPLORATION PALACE OF CULTURE

Pipes run low overhead, and one of the group quickly learns the tough way why we’ve been issued with hardhats rumor were off the agenda. Yet it’s a sign of the times that an institution as byzantine as the Palace of Culture can move forward and offer something more in tune with what people want. Guiding is an art that requires more than knowledge alone, and that salient point has been realized by CREATours. Meeting our chaperone for the morning, Kate, our group bands together at CREATours reception desk for a quick introduction and the distribution of crash helmets. That alone sends a ripple of excitement through those that have gathered: this isn’t a standard sightseeing excursion, it’s an archaeological expedition! In a way, it’s not an exaggeration to admit that’s how it feels. Having opted for the basement tour, our exploration of the subterranean floors begins with the standard rhetoric regarding the Palace: with much of Warsaw resembling little more than a glowing pile of embers, Stalin made an offer to the newly installed Communist government to aid the city’s reconstruction – the Soviet Union would either fund a metro, a new residential district or a great, big tower to house social institutions. The issue was debated for six hours in the Belvedere Palace, with the final decision falling in favor of the latter option. Officially

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

formalized on April 5, 1952, the wheels were soon set in motion for construction to begin. Lev Rudnyev was placed in charge of the Soviet architectural team, and his design was widely based on similar towers he’d authored in Moscow – among them, the city’s Lomonosov University. To appease the locals, details that were emblematic of renaissance Poland were to be added, and as Rudnyev and his associates toured towns like Kraków and Zamość for inspiration, equipment and specialists started pouring into Warsaw. On May 2nd, 1952, ground was ready to be broken. In all, it took the 3,500 construction workers just three years to finish the project and what was then known as the Stalin Palace was officially opened on July 22nd, 1955.

sing one of the stairwells that form part of the Palace’s thirteen kilometers of steps, we find ourselves on a technical floor that’s largely unchanged from those early days. Pipes run low overhead, and one of the group quickly learns the tough way why we’ve been issued with hardhats – ouch. A ventilation room busy with valves and spigots is our first stop, and then the outrageously retro principal control room. Filled with big red buttons and mysterious dials, it’s rife with abstract detail: a burbling fish tank, miniature kegs of beer and a topless pin-up calendar. Sealed off from the world, nightshifts here must be as curious as they come. More passages follow and then another set of stairs. As we echo through the corridors Kate continues her spiel: “You’ll hear a lot of silly legends connected to the Palace, but many are false – there is no lake of vodka, and there

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URBAN EXPLORATION PALACE OF CULTURE

isn’t a secret train link to Moscow… but we do have cats.” Once peaking at 60, today’s feline population stands at a lucky 13. Peering through a window we observe their green-lit living quarters which comes replete with climbing trees, secretive hatchways and a picture of a dog. It’s here that they rest after a night on patrol. ‘Employed’ to keep the rodent population in check, they aren’t the wild, hissing beasts of local myth, rather well-behaved moggies that keep themselves to themselves – at least, that’s the case most of the time. “Years back,” says Kate, “one managed to turn off the building’s entire electricity supply.” Another, we’re told, strolled nonchalantly onto the stage while Marlena Dietrich performed in 1964. The incident received more column inches than Dietrich’s concert, prompting the furious singer to never return. Walking on through the basement and the surprises start stacking up. One side room is filled with material from the building phase (uniforms, a wheelbarrow, lockers and a brazier), another with the Palace’s original revolving doors: “They were switched out in the 1960s,” explains Kate, “because visiting dignitaries couldn’t fit their luggage through them.” Essentially, this underground kingdom reveals itself as a treasure trove of odds and ends: buttons from the first elevator, hefty chronicles, bits of masonry, banners, dicey looking Soviet sound equipment (as well as more reliable units purchased from Phillips), and tiny chairs from Sala Kongresowa. Once ranked as Poland’s largest concert hall, the Kongresowa famously hosted the Rolling Stones in 1967. “They were invited over by the government,” regales Kate,

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Employed to keep the rodent population in check, the cats aren’t the wild, hissing beasts of local myth “but there was just no way they could physically lay their hands on so much Western cash to pay them – instead they offered to reimburse them with vodka.” Guess what, Mick and Keef jumped at the offer. “The thing is though,” continues Kate, “they weren’t allowed to take it out of the country. They were so livid that, like Dietrich, they promised to never play in Poland again.” With whole vats of vodka reputedly left behind in the basement by the Stones, it’s said that for years’ after workers at the Palace pocketed extra cash by selling it on the black market. Puffing our way back to ground level, the basement part of the tour is over, though a parting perk lies in free access to the viewing platform on the top. Zipping up there, it’s with a newfound appreciation of the Palace that we pace around being buffeted by the wind. Once looked upon with a general sense of loathing, it’s a relief that post-1989 suggestions to dismantle the Palace never went beyond the discussion stage. Now truly immersed into the fabric of the city, its tours like this that lend a new insight and understanding into this unwieldy behemoth. CREATours

Pl. Defilad 1, pkin-wycieczki.pl

LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 50 CAFES & WINE BARS 80 NIGHTLIFE 85 SHOPPING 94 FAMILY 99 HEALTH & BEAUTY 104 IN THE CITY 107

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

A Novel Idea

It’s not always easy trying to engage and connect with this city but Radio Telewizja move you a few steps closer with a range of literature that covers topics from local (and international) art and architecture to contemporary history. Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere (including furniture passed down the owner’s family tree), their offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language reading material, and extends further into quirky gifts and black/white photos that capture the era. A quite extraordinary space, the idea is set to be developed further, with lectures, debates and other community activities planned for the café section. Radio Telewizja ul. Andersa 29 www.warsawinsider.pl

REVIEWS

oshinko spinach

rice

tomato

cucumber pepper

kanpyo

Sushi Reinvented

While Warsaw’s mania for sushi has subsided somewhat since its heyday in the 00s, it still exists. Trouble is, the standard of fish just isn’t consistent enough: the good stuff either costs a fortune or is snapped up in seconds (usually both). Consequently, the sushi sector has floundered – the locals love it, they’ve just had enough of second rate results. Enter Edamame. Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver it’s traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. Edamame Vegan Sushi ul. Wilcza 11

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

More Than Meats The Eye Warburger expand to cover more than just burgers…

am a sucker for a feel good story, and they don’t get more rags-to-riches than the tale of Warburger. Opened down in Mokotów in 2012, the original took root in one of those cabin-style huts you usually see selling flowers or engine parts. It didn’t matter that it was tiny, it soon became established as Warsaw’s No. 1 source for pedigree burgers. Queues would coil outside, but the wait was always worthwhile. Well, they’ve still got the shack, only now Warburger have graduated to big school by opening a sit-down venture with a downtown postcode. But this is more than an upgrade on the original concept, it’s a full-on evolution. Burgers are present, and more numerous in number, but come with the added plus of plates and cutlery (and not flimsy tableware either, rather strong pieces of weaponry designed to rip animals into shreds). Yet whilst many customers fail to look beyond the burger page, doing so yourself would be a crime. Of course, the chili burger remains a mainstay of the Warburger package, but the real attraction of the new joint is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal – the beef tongue sandwich is full of all the big flavors you’d expect, but the surprise hit are the duck hearts. Served in a deep sauce and accompanied with onion bread, I’ve not always been this dish’s biggest fan:

eat Daffy Duck’s heart? No way! It was Michał Bryś of L’enfant Terrible that coerced me into my U-turn, and it says a lot for the competence of Warburger’s kitchen that they get this dish every bit as a right as one of the city’s top dining rooms. Not that any of this should come as a shock. Back when the city was ordering nothing but burgers, the places that stood out were the ones who applied slow food standards to the fast food industry. Warburger paid particular attention to this, and that attitude has stood them in good stead as they branch into the more serious aspects of cooking: these are proper ingredients afforded all the right treatment. Further to their credit are more prosaic accomplishments: there’s just no way you’d guess you’re sat on the ground floor of some 60s bastard block. On the contrary, the space that’s been created feels perfect for the occasion with a design more in line with a readapted warehouse. It’s casual and relaxed, with the atmosphere embraced by a super-nice staff who look like off-duty models for some indy magazine. The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so much more. (AW) Warburger Na Talerzu

ul. Żelazna 58/62, open 12:00-21:00 www.warsawinsider.pl

REVIEWS

Educating Mokotowska

here are some places that can do no wrong, restaurants that press all the right buttons and seemingly walk on water – there’s just not many places like that in Warsaw. That’s especially true of the mystifying Mokotowska. Often likened to a pretty piece of Paris, just how is it that a street rolling in riches can be so underprivileged in terms of restaurants? It has plenty, just not enough you’d ever bother returning to. Bazar Kocha, however, is one of the few notable exceptions. Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce: “we wanted to open a house of cooking,” says Marcin Koch, the proprietor, “a place to buy produce and seek inspiration.” Above all though, this is a restaurant, and if any reminder was needed then its sounded clearly by a menu of unmistakable beauty. Carefully curated by chef Tomasz Maćkowiak and his team, it’s strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’, with primary importance placed on quality produce from local suppliers. “We don’t change the menu monthly,” says Marcin, “we change it when we want, when we have to and when new ingredients come into season – it’s the seasons we’re most connected to.”

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Bazar Kocha give a masterclass in how it should be done…

Although the basis of the cuisine is described as ‘Polish with a twist’, and in spite of the restaurant’s casual leanings, it’s not difficult to spot fine dining roots. The menu, we’re told, is in the process of being shortened, but till that overhaul is complete a full exploration is recommended to allow Tomasz & Co. the opportunity to demonstrate the full scope of their creative talents. Ordering a cluster of starters and appetizers, our table is immediately struck by the sheer finesse of the chef ’s deft hand. A dish simply titled ‘beet’ proves to be a happy marriage of art and taste: macerated in blackcurrant juice, the beets are a vibrant affair complimented by smoked mozzarella and roasted buckwheat groats. There are ‘duck balls’ served in a pepper sauce that’s big with tang, not to mention two micro bagels with thick smears of black pudding and cinnamon. It’s a dramatic opener with two specific highlights: a magnificent house pate served with a clump of garden fresh greens and pieces of pear left to soak in vinegar. What tastes! And as it turns out, that’s not the only cameo from the modest pear, with

one plate consisting of caramelized pears and blocks of iced buttermilk. A cross between a starter, dessert and something in between, it’s a dish of distinction that plays with temperatures and textures with significant success. We’re still swooning about it when the soup arrives, a warming chicken broth full of subtle, earthy detail. Yet this is but a prelude to the final, double-pronged knockout strike: first, a vegetable mix centered around cauliflower that has been grilled sous-vide, and second, a giant leg of lamb that falls off the bone. Accompanied by sweet and violet potatoes and a silky herb sauce, it’s a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. In itself, that’s the story of Kocha: through their novel use of simple local produce, it’s a place that reimagines the very essence of Polish cooking. (AW) Bazar Kocha

ul. Mokotowska 33/35, bazarkocha.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

REVIEWS

BOTTLE WATCH: Bilet Do Frisco by Gloger Browar Miejski

Oil The Wheels

A celebration of an underground culture…

at, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Petrifying to look at, the run-down exterior brings to mind the brutal biker bars you see in American films: approaching it, you expect warring leather-clad gangs to come spilling out the doors. Few Warsaw bars, if any, get the pulse racing in quite the same way as this one. But if the expectation is to come head-to-head with a bunch of drifters and bad asses, the reality couldn’t be more different. Attracting a well-lubricated crowd from all walks of life, it’s just about the most welcoming bar you’ll ever wish to find, a point quite at odds with the rough and gritty look: still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly: and with no neighbors nearby to put the brakes on the noise, it’s not unknown to find the audience piling outside to hoist their craft beer in the air and continue the party into the night. Join them: in an era of increasingly mundane and monotonous bars, 2Koła is one giant uproarious thrill. 2Koła Pub Motocyklowy ul. Tunelowa 2B, www.facebook.com/2KOLA/

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

The Brewery: back in the 19th century a historian called Zygmunt Gloger began experimenting with a bit of part-time brewing – the results were a success and kick-started the tradition of brewing in Podlasie. Named in honor of him, this new-wave brewery aims to revive the traditions of the past while also adding contemporary inspirations typical of the craft beer movement. Helping Gloger fulfil that mission is Wojciech Piasecki, the creator of what was judged the best wheat beer at the Birofilia Festival (2013) and the top pils (2014). The Beer: this limited edition American-style IPA commemorates Józef Piłsudski’s 1904 visit to the States. An easy drinking beer, this ambercolored drop is dominated by citrusy aromas and grass and pine notes that come from the American hops. While nothing revolutionary, it’s a solid refresher on a sweaty day in May.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Hip Cat

Street food has moved indoors: Fat Cat Chicken Spot is the latest example with a range of crunchy strips, wings and drumsticks served inside paper boxes with dollops of homemade sauce – here’s the very meaning of comfort food. Typifying the general urban style, the toilet – a sea of graffiti tags and squiggles – will make you jump. Fat Cat Chicken Spot

ul. Wilcza 26

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Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Revolution!

Massive changes on Wilcza! Firstly, Dwie Trzecie have rebranded as Wilcza 50, secondly, they’ve gone and recruited the acclaimed Sebastian Olma as head chef. Those unfamiliar with his reputation need only know he’s quite some cook: visit! Wilcza 50 ul. Wilcza 50

High Steaks

Merliniego 5, officially recognized as Warsaw’s top steakhouse, will be expanding their catchment area with the imminent opening of a new venue at the bottom end of Mokotowska. Expect fine wines and beef sourced from the top markets around the world. Mokotowska 69 ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.pl

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Mother’s Day

Just in time for Mother’s Day, Minty dot have unveiled their proposal for the ideal gift: engraved jewelry that declares “My Hero, My Everything, My Mum”. In their words, it’s the perfect display of ‘love and devotion’. Minty dot ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl

Wine Gratis!

Saluted on account of their excellent and intriguing antipodean cuisine, Kalaya will be offering all Insider’s a complimentary dessert or a free glass of wine when ordering a main course with their ad found on page 52. Kalaya ul. Jasna 26, kalaya.pl

Wine & Dine

Signalling their intention to rise above mere winebar status, Dekant have announced the launch of a new five-course tasting menu complete with wine pairings. Designed by chef Adam Kowalczyk, the experience is priced between zł. 140-160. Dekant ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl

Choo, Choo, Choose Białośliwie A region steeped in historic and natural attractions!

Białośliwie

Warsaw

et in the northern reaches of Wielkopolska is one of the oldest villages in the region: Białośliwie. Celebrating 800 years of existence this year, first mention of this settlement can be traced to 1216 when it fell under the patronage and rule of Świętosława I of the House of Pałuków. Over the centuries, the village has passed between different families and also undergone the trials and tribulations associated with more contemporary Polish history. Białośliwie’s physical attractions manifest themselves in a complex of buildings built in relation to a narrow-gauge railway dating from 1895. Featuring a gauge of 600 m, the Białośliwie-Łobżenica line was originally launched to be part of the 150 kilometer Wyrzyska Kolejka Powiatowa network. Initiating in Białośliwie, the line was the only one in Poland with tracks located on three different levels. While the route was closed down in 1994, the railway line has evolved into a tourist attraction. Since 2001 it has fallen under the stewardship of Towarzystwo Wyrzyska Kolejka Powiatowa, and together with local municipality they have revitalized rolling stock and sections of the track for the purposes of organizing a rail service aimed at tourists. As a result each year, in June, TWKP organizes rallies for lovers of narrow gauge railways which draw visitors from both home and abroad. With its sheer architectural value, it’s also worth seeing the historic Wacek timber-beam granary building, built in the second half of the 19th century in response to the growing cereal sector. Currently this architectural gem houses a collection of everyday objects from Białośliwie, and also regularly hosts and holds thematic exhibitions and concerts. Also noteworthy is Park Dworski Raczyński, known for its cluster of ancient yew trees not to mention a might glacial boulder that’s steeped in local legend. Modern Białośliwie and its surroundings are wellknown for its fertile fields and apple, plum and cherry orchards. Thanks to this the locality is famed for its jams that are produced using traditional methods that hark back to the traditions used by the housewives of Włościanki. The location of Białośliwie, on the edge of the Krajeńska plateau and the Noteć Valley, mark it out as an area filled with interesting landscapes and outstanding natural beauty. For this reason, the region is a firm tourist favorite.

“ Białośliwie’s physical attractions manifest themselves in a complex of buildings built in relation to a narrow-gauge railway dating from 1895”

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Pa N rtn ew er s

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Absolutely Georgian Discover the taste of home in Rusiko…

xplaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s a cuisine representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. And while it is a kitchen that keeps its food fresh, simple and honest, that should not be misinterpreted as a sign of a monotony. Surprisingly diverse, the food of Georgia channels influences from afar afield as Persia, India and the Mediterranean. In a nutshell, it’s a food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes. It’s for these reasons that gastronauts the world over are starting to sit up and take notice. And where there’s a global trend, Warsaw’s never far behind. Georgian food has lifted off and its surging popularity has been led by Rusiko. Having hit the grand old age of one in April, Rusiko can look back on an extraordinary year that peaked with the announcement that they’d won Gazeta Wyborcza’s coveted ‘restaurant of the year’ award. Clearly, chef David is doing something very right, and indeed, his soupy chinkali dumplings and cheesy chaczapuri bread are the gastronomic equivalent of a warm cuddle. Befitting the food, is the atmosphere, and that holds especially true of the new private room: the very definition of gorgeous Georgian, it’s a split between elegant and traditional. Most of all, like the food itself, it feels like home sweet home... Rusiko Al. Ujazdowskie 22, rusiko.pl

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Wilanów

neighborhood Aquaholic

You don’t need your own personal Mr. Darcy, but it certainly helps if you want to maximize your enjoyment of Wilanów’s lake. Set behind the palace, it’s a picturesque place that recreates the magic of Pride & Prejudice: hire a row boat from by Enrico Marconi’s redbrick pump room, and then paddle around the lake being trailed by the ducks.

THINGS TO DO With spring under way the number of tourists wandering around Wilanów rises exponentially: primarily thanks to the following…

Plaża Wilanów

Błonia Wilanowskie This outdoor recreation area is best in summer, though the mild weather has seen the local kids take advantage of the adventure playground. Owners of active dogs find the dog park underwhelming, but it’s a good place to teach smaller dogs new tricks.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Royal Wilanów

ul. Klimczaka 1 This mixed-use project has reinvigorated Wilanów with its interesting retail offer, splash of restaurants and entertainment options: these include ‘field chess’, boules, football pitch and a three-meter high climbing wall. Recently opened, this is only the beginning!

Wilanów Palace

Stanisława Kostki Potockiego 10/16 Known by the Poles as the Polish Versailles, this baroque masterpiece was built in the 17th century for King Jan III Sobieski. It’s emphatic in its splendor, with surfaces dripping with gold leaf and indulgent extras.

neighborhood / wilanów eat & drink Bel Paese ul. Sarmacka 22, belpaese.pl Looking around the tables and you’ll see most customers diving into pizzas: but that overlooks the fact that the pastas in this highly casual neighborhood haunt are both interesting and quite often on-point. Bierhalle ul. Klimczaka 1, bierhalle.pl The latest Bierhalle venture is the shining pearl of this long-established empire. The beer is freshly brewed on-site and served with food befitting of the beer hall aesthetic.

Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, bistecca.pl Opened over four years back, Bistecca is something of a pioneer when it comes to quality beef. Outsiders travel from outside Wilanów’s immediate catchment area to sample meat dishes that include their signature one kilo T-Bone shaped joint: it’s a strip steak on one side and a tenderloin on the other. Chef Paweł Gajownik personally oversees the aging process.

street food with an upmarket Wilanów twist – you’ll hear no complaints from us. The house specialty shares the restaurant’s name, and involves a hot dog featuring lamb sausage and onion jam. Hummus Bar Wilanów ul. Klimczaka 20 The most upmarket hummus bar Warsaw has attracts its fair share of Wilanów’s 30-something couples, who enjoy it as much for its Prosecco as they do for its hummus-filled pitta breads. Jesz Lody Tradycyjne Al. Rzeczypospolitej 18, jeszlody.pl Having enjoyed success in Ursynów, Jesz Lody bring their ‘artisan ice cream’ to Wilanów. Using 100% natural ingredients, expect their popularity to jump off the scale once the warm weather hits Kabuki ul. Branickiego 10, kabukifusion.pl Astroturf tables and pictures of oriental park life fill this Japanese-themed café; creative

fruit cocktails and unfamiliar board games sit well with the vibrant aesthetic. Kuchnia Otwarta ul. Klimczaka 1, kuchniaotwarta.pl A restaurant with serious ambitions to be the best in the area: a beautiful layout that’s modern and open is complemented by a varied menu with something for all ages and tastes: their Sunday roast has become a sensation, and is even rated by hard-to-please Brits. Says one local resident: ‘these guys really know what they’re doing.’ Kuźnia Kulturalna ul. S.K. Potockiego 24, kuzniakulturalna.pl With its massive play area (there’s even a beach in the summer!), well-stocked bar, and diverse menu this former blacksmith’s is something of a catch-all solution. It’s position close to the palace draws in as many tourists as it does locals. Milanovo ul. S.K. Potockiego 24, milanovo.pl

Café Plakatówka ul. Hlonda 2, plakatowka.pl A colorful venue that describes itself as half café/half gallery. Find plenty of pops of color from the Polish poster are on the walls, bookshelves filled with literature that broaches arty subjects and a menu that celebrates local produce and artisan tastes: that includes craft beer, homemade cakes and highly decent sandwiches.

& BURG

Dunkin’ Donuts ul. Klimczaka 1 After an absence of well over a decade, how Warsaw cheered on learning DD were returning. Smaller than the average store, but do you think anyone cares?

Gora

Pies

Gorący Pies Al. Rzeczypospolitej 10 Artisan burgers, creative hot dogs and local ingredients: this is

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neighborhood / wilanów A relaxed white-clad spot a hop away from all the sights. The menu is pretty vast, though most skip straight to the pizza. Naturel ul. Klimczaka 1, naturel7.pl Find here a beautiful space that’s generous on light, polished surfaces and bursts of color from seasonal flowers. Using ingredients largely sourced from the chef’s family farm, Marcin Jabłoński’s menu is a monthly-changing artwork that, on our visit, included a deep and creamy ravioli and a full-flavored hanger steak with a feisty mushroom ragout. Saffron Spices ul. Klimczaka 20, saffronspices.pl Much appreciated by Wilanów’s British population, Saffron Spices is a reliable choice for the standard curries. Nothing complex here, but they do the basics well enough. Sucre ul. Klimczaka 5, sucre.pl Purveyors of Warsaw’s best natural ice cream, Sucre is worth

visiting in all temperatures on account of their Parisian-style macarons. Sushi Zume ul. Klimczaka 5, sushizume.eu Apparently this was the first restaurant to take root in Miasteczko Wilanów. Still going strong, that they’ve outlasted many of their competitors speaks volumes. Basic interior, simple menu but solidly reliable standards. Taste Burger ul. Przyczolkowa 400, tasteburger.pl A throwback to the burger explosion of a few years back, Taste Burger is a casual eatery popular with twenty somethings and palace day trippers. Expect the outdoor section to thrive as spring merges into summer. Vilano ul. Kazachska 1, vilano.pl Find the busy open kitchen serving homemade pasta, Tuscan-style pizza, a respectable array of sea creatures and meat courtesy of Warsaw’s top butcher, Grzegorz Kwapniewski.

W Kropki Bordo ul. Zaściankowa 96, wkropkibordo.pl Filling a binary role as a toyshop/bookstore, this jaunty cafe includes matted play areas, sofas and a whole flotilla of cakes and desserts made of natural produce. Restauracja Wilanów ul. S.K. Potockiego 27 restauracjawilanow.com Full of stained glass, drooping antlers and wood finishes Restauracja Wilanów feels defiantly old school. Enjoy it while you can, we’re told big changes are afoot! Winalove ul. Kolegiacka 8, winalove.pl The menu focuses around pizza and the wine list appropriately slanted – but not limited to – Italy. Winalove also tout themselves as a gallery: expect plenty of pops of color from local artists. YeYe Mex Food & Music Bar ul. Kazachska 1, yeye.testa.com.pl Mexican food hasn’t imported well to Poland, but chef Jorge Martinez changes that with a simple menu that makes it look easy. Some are calling it the best Mexican the country has ever seen! Pub Złoty Król ul. S.K. Potockiego 27 In an area now swimming in new-look venues, there’s a nostalgic charm and character to Złoty Król. Feeling like a traditional provincial bar, the authenticity is a welcome tonic.

Al. Wilanowska 67e/ D1/3 tel. 602 720 077 www.agijensen.com

It's all about

beef!

Try polish dry aged premium beef steak’s! Restauracja Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, 02-972 Warszawa tel. 22 258 12 43, biuro@bistecca.pl, www.bistecca.pl

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

specialty food shops The Beer Store Wilanów Al. Rzeczypospolitej 14 While many locals rightfully claim The Beer Store to the best bar in the district, it’s original function as a shop should not be forgotten either: there’s 400 beers to pore over, with the international range including a number of progressive breweries. Butchery & Wine Shop ul. Klimczaka 5/88, butcheryandwine.pl A collaboration of two legends: ‘celebrity butcher’ Grzegorz Kwapniewski and Daniel Pawełek of the downtown Butchery & Wine restaurant. Hereford, red and black Angus beef available, plus organic chicken and pork. While you’re there, pick up a bottle of wine for movie night.

neighborhood / wilanów Delikatesy Gusto ul. Klimczaka 5/89 Craft beer, impressive wines and soft drinks from brands like Belvoir. And to think, that’s just the drinks. Also on sale, western sugar highs (watermelon nerds!) to local eco-produce.

EVENTS FOR MAY Outdoor Theater

6 May @ Royal Wilanów

Targ Wilanowski Pl. Miejski Held each Saturday (9 a.m. till 3 p.m.) in the heart of Miasteczko Wilanów, this upscale outdoor food market places an onus on free range farmers’ fare, regional produce and fresh fruit and veg.

No further information at press time, so for further details check their website closer to the time: royalwilanow.com

Sklep Sarmackie ul. Sarmacka 10, sarmackiesmakolyki.pl An eco-conscious delicatessen with Polish and Armenian ready meals, organic fruit and veg, free range eggs and poultry, healthminded treats, gluten free ingredients and delicious homemade sausages.

From 7 p.m. head to Royal Wilanów for a live performance courtesy of Marianna i Chłopaki. Chillout / acoustic / jazz.

Live Music

13 May @ Royal Wilanów

Live Music

27 May @ Royal Wilanów Turn up to Royal Wilanów at 7 p.m. to listen to the acclaimed Blues Junkers performing old school blues, boogie woogie and soul.

Dębowy Dym Al. Rzeczypospolitej 12 Mainly pig and poultry products, with the proprietors keen to emphasize their allegiance to traditional methods.

AL.

Night of the Museums

14-15 May @ Wilanów Palace No official word yet as to what the Palace has in store: last year, in addition to free admission, entertainment included tastings of 18th century courtly food, a book fair and fashion show.

Night of the Museums

14-15 May @ Poster Museum Free entry to the Poster Museum and, possibly, the last chance to view the Tadanori Yokoo exhibition. Closes at 1 a.m.

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED 2015 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2015 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining Senses Casual Dining Bibenda Newcomer MOD Chef Sebastian Wełpa (Ale Wino) Modern Polish (Opasły Tom) Foreign Chef Martin Gimenez-Castro (Salto & Ceviche Bar)

DYLETANCI (ul. Rozbrat 44A) Having made their name serving traditional French bistro fare, Le Bistro Rozbrat have announced a French Revolution and their transformation into a more gastro-focused eatery. The rebrand includes both a new title and a new name in the kitchen: Rafał Hreczaniuk (formerly of Tamka 43) takes the helm, and his stellar reputation means that big things are expected of his ‘author’s cuisine’. Full report coming next issue.

LA SIRENA (ul. Pięka 54) Warsaw’s Mexican scene is finally showing signs of maturing beyond the 90s: La Sirena is particularly interesting, with an engaging interior that mixes the typical hacienda style with more alternative and industrial trimmings. Brought to you by the same team as the amazing Dziurka od Klucza restaurant in Powiśle, the food has got this place packing out. There’s no skipping on ingredients, but while we enjoyed the chimichanga the ‘extra hot’ salsa was anything but and the staff looked ready to wave the white flag. Reservations recommended.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

african american asian australian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french georgian greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin & mexican middle eastern polish scandinavian seafood specialty shops steak houses thai uzbek whole foods

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listings / restaurants african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$

hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$

Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700,

Hell’s Chickens ul. Puławska 246, hellschickens.pl It’s all

american Amigos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, restauracjaamigos. pl Educated by George Bush’s former private chef, the cooks at Amigos have mastered a comprehensive menu that’s nothing if it isn’t a roll-call of true Texan tastes: steaks, ribs and other dishes befitting of the Dodge City saloon-style surrounds. Neither is the south of the border forgotten, with strong cameo appearances from the chimichanga and fajitas. $$ Barn Smoque (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, barnsmoque.pl Okay, so 2015 won’t be remembered as the year of the grill house, but Warsaw is getting there. From the owners of Barn Burger comes Barn Smoque, a casual eatery decorated with number plates and… portraits of pigs dressed for the office. The menu is all about meat and fire, with dishes like wings, ribs, steaks and brisket. Don’t leave without sampling the Fuck Crack Bacon: grilled bacon in beer batter with a side of jalapeno / BBQ salsa. $ Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos not to mention Mito’s Beef Ribs and 100% beef dogs. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings: they’re loved by many. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring

First American The First The American Steakhouse Steakhouse in Warsaw in Warsaw (since 1991) Al. Jerozolimskie 119 tel. (+48) 22 629 3969 www.restauracjaamigos.pl

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listings / restaurants chicken feed here, with a menu comprised of wings, strips and chicken wraps served on paper plates alongside thick-cut fries and homemade sauces. Chow down in a budget interior that doesn’t far extend beyond tables and chairs manufactured from crates – the young crowd doesn’t mind at all. A decent comfort food option on a rainy / hungover day, the only downer is a location way out of the center. $ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, tgifridays.pl/warszawa The steaks are a missand-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

asian Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210, blissrestaurant.pl Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinesestyle ribs. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are Restaurant ¶ Bar something else. $$ Choila Quality cuisine influenced by ul. Zajączka 25, choila.pl Having made the Australia and New Zealand. effort to get here, disappointing doesn’t even begin to describe it. Presenting the dishes of Casual dining Antipodean style Nepal and the Himalayas, gorgeous sounding like you expect ‘Down Under’. dishes transpire to be gloopy offerings

75 Australian and New Zealand wines - Probably the largest and best list of Antipodean wines In Europe. Ul. Jasna 26, Warsaw, 00-054 +48 222 99 3210 | info@kalaya.pl

www.kalaya.pl

more reminiscent of the cut-price budget food cabins you once found around the old bulldozed stadium. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) multiple locations, duzamiha.pl A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Onggi (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Onggi’s problem? That’s the food. Those expecting strong Korean flavors, big spices and plenty of bite and crunch come away disappointed by an offer that’s limited to bland and claggy dishes kept sweating in buffet containers: pay zł. 45 for all you can eat. In an area bristling with highly individual eateries, this feels little more than a merely adequate feeding trough, which is a great shame considering the considerable expense involved in the modern oriental design. $$ Pantai (G3) ul. Wybrzeże Szczecińskie 1 With its surprisingly classy tropical look, the primetime to visit the beachside Pantai is summer. Not much use knowing that now, of course. So the question is, does it work out of season? That’s a resounding yes. Beautiful cocktails play their role, but so too does a succinct menu of Asian food that includes Malaysian laksa soups, some dim sum options, and tempura duck. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, pekinduck.pl Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

t er ss a in de m or h a e t in wi n o w e red a ti u s de e n t o – h or es f r is n t o n s he n p th e o as w o o f se m lid t gl st e a l i t r va 16 ee u e m ve e r .20 Fr er g ad o ff 1.5 p 3

Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $

listings / restaurants Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $

australian

Kalaya (D4) ul. Jasna 26, kalaya.pl Poland has had Australian restaurants before, but they’ve pretty much all been immature efforts designed to mimic an Aboriginal cave. Kalaya, in contrast, is a smart urban spot whose understated

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interiors direct attention onto the food: that transpires to be a meat-heavy menu that features emu, kangaroo and NZ lamb cooked inside a Josper oven. The final outcome is high on fresh flavors, interesting talking points and creative presentation.

babooshka.pl Looking intimate and woodsy Babooshka serves up dollops of simple Russian food to a budget conscious crowd. The bacon and tomato scented solyanka soup is a thick broth best suited for Warsaw’s long, windy nights. $

balkan & russian

U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $

Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366,

british British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsomer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a

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listings / restaurants downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Ę Rybę Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl Warsaw’s has done fish and chips before, yet nowhere has managed to capture the unique taste of the British seaside as convincingly as this place. Forget the grey and greasy offerings the city has previously volunteered, here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Doused with malt vinegar, and a couple of dollops of tartar sauce, here’s food that cuddles and comforts on a chilly spring day. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$ Pik’s Fish & Chips ul. Grójecka 17B You wait years for a fish and chip shop and then two come along at once. But most of the Brits are converging on E Rybę in the center, and there’s a reason for that: entered into a head-to-head and there’s one clear winner. It’s not Pik. Comparisons to E Rybę are both inevitable and unfavorable: smaller portions and tastes that are just not quite there. $

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll. Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

quality is the main consideration. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Między Bułkami (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Warsaw Hot Dog & Burger (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15 While it seems behind the times to be talking about a trend that curved out a couple of years back, the bottom line is people are still craving burgers. And that’s little wonder when they’re this good. The Firestarter is a game changer and even better with a pile of double-fried chips. $ Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001 So it’s a kebab shop,

but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Falafel Bejrut ul. Nowolipki 15 & ul. Senatorska 40 It just keeps getting better for Falafel Bejrut. From modest origins as a food cart plying its trade outside Hala Mirowska came a tiny little takeout place on ul. Senatorska. That’s still going strong, only now it’s got a big little sister. Light, bright and buzzing with custom, the new venture has a good scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is Poland’s best falafel. And don’t ever think of leaving without ordering the hummus diablo. $ Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – there are times when queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), though not everyone agrees they’re worth the often silly waiting times. $ Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $ Warsaw Hot Dog Factory (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, hotdogfactory.pl There’s a general feeling that, maybe, 2016 will be The Year of the Hot Dog. With Warsaw still flirting with glammed-up street food, Hot Dog Factory could yet be onto something – find upmarket versions of the dawg served using artisan buns and proper pork meat: not, we’re told, the stuff found on the bottom of a factory floor…

CMY

listings / restaurants cooking schools Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work. Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself. Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering

frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl You sometimes suspect Warsaw doesn’t give seafood the respect it deserves. But the city’s shortcomings are atoned for by L’Arc. Choose from the lobsters swimming on Death Row, then settle back for a meal to die for. Likewise, the oysters and mussels never disappoint. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw. com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet. $$

ul. Nowy Świat 36 tel. 731 001 002 beefnroll.pl facebook.com/beefnroll.burgers

BEST BURGERS /WINGS /HOT-DOGS

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 44 61, petitappetit.com.pl A bit of French you say? Step in. There’s an atmosphere here that melts regulars and tourists into one. An easy coexistence that reveals a lot about the very soul of the place: café, hangout, bistro. Small choice but good results. $$

georgian Chinkali (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Signposted by a Georgianlanguage shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re always authentic and tasty, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwashcolored tarragon lemonade. $ Klukovka (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, www.klukovka.pl Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming winter mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. That said, it’s never a surprise to find diners ordering up bottles of Georgian vodka before proceeding to share their way through the menu. $

Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628 Vodka shots at the ready! Rusiko finished 2015 voted Gazeta Wyborcza’s Knajpa Roku, a very public endorsement of all they’ve done right. The food is the equivalent of a warm cuddle on a cold day – it makes you feel good in the heart and soul – and when it comes to hospitality they’re in a league of their own. Live music lends the weekends a goodhumoured twist. Note: closed Monday. $$

listings / restaurants greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, parosrestauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/ santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Slowly but surely it seems the Turkish influence has been eroded in favor of a pedestrian menu of burgers, pasta and other things available on every corner. But this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, chmielarnia.waw.pl Find some of the

world’s greatest beers (see Nightlife) served in a murky, muggy basement. The Indian food that accompanies it is generally successful without being memorable – the beer snack menu though is great, with big points going to the spicy, chili ribs. $

Original Indian Cuisine

Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 & ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub. com or indiaexpress.pl Celebrating their 10th birthday this year, Mandala is well on its way to becoming a Warsaw institution. But rather than resting on their laurels, the management are using this landmark anniversary as an opportunity to rejig the menu and update their offer. Using the freshest ingredients, Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo – could be hotter for some, but good enough for most. $$ Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste found themselves losing their way somewhat. Now back on track – and with a newly expanded upstairs section – one Insider correspondent goes so far as to claim a recent trip as his ‘favorite Indian for years!’ $$ Om ul. Sienna 86 Indian restaurants are popping up like toast, which isn’t a problem for most ex-pats. Catering to the more budget end of the market, Om’s Nepalese chefs know their way around the kitchen. The chicken tikka masala is satisfying if nothing memorable, but the madras is something else: filled with sharp, punchy tastes that leave a lasting impression. While you get the idea it’ll never challenge the more established Indian restaurants in Warsaw, it’s the kind of place you’d be very happy to live next door to. $

club

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listings / restaurants Welcome India ul. Eramza Ciołka 35 The Insider likes breaking good news, and when that news involves an Indian restaurant then so much the better. Found in the darkest depths of Wola, this unlikely find has an ace up its sleeve: a chef nabbed from under the noses of the once excellent Curry House. If you’re unfamiliar with his cooking, then look forward to the death-by-fire vindaloo, and a butter chicken that doesn’t have any rivals. The home delivery service is a godsend for those who don’t fancy journeying outside their neighborhood comfort zone. $

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Fans of the original we might be, but this latest venture brings to mind one of those anonymously formulaic Times Square eateries where tourists convene for the ‘fake’ New York experience. There are moments

when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport, while the despondent staff only make matters worse. You’d think the Pilsner beer tanks would serve as a point of redemption, but here foul glasses make what should be Warsaw’s freshest beer into the capital’s worst. $$

menu has been well tailored to the season. Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. BEST WAWA 2015 “Chef”

Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose

A nuż widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520 So snug is A nuż widelec, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house. The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and watering the flowers in the knockout garden. Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$ Artkitchen ul. Domaniewska 34A, artkitchen.pl Buried deep in the office blocks of white collar Mokotów Artkitchen hope to attract more than just the lunch break crowd with a busy jazz program overseen by musician Grzegorz Piotrowski. The modern international menu

SEAFOOD SIGNATUR E BRUNCH AT SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA Enjoy a gourmand Sunday with your family at Sofitel Warsaw Victoria. We invite you to delight in a rich signature buffet concept, including a selection of seafood, oysters, shrimps, fresh fish, caviar and crabs. Every Sunday we offer a special kids menu and activities for children with our animators. Discover the Best Brunch 2015 awarded with the „Best of Warsaw 2015” by Warsaw Insider every Sunday from 12:30pm to 4:30pm at a price of 165 PLN per perso n.

Bookings: Kitchen Gallery - Sofitel Warsaw Victoria Tel.: 22 657 82 62 Email: kitchen.gallery@sofitel.com

WWW.SOFITEL.COM

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listings / restaurants is composed by Michał Bassa, a man who appears to like foie gras: find it in burgers, ice cream and other combinations. $$

Bastylia (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, bastylia.eu Part champagne bar, part cool creperie, Bastylia has been around 2001, since when they’ve been championed across the city for crepes that would make you swoon. White brickwork, mandarin sofas and champagne bits and piece lend a touch of class, while breakfast is served each day from 8. Bazar Kocha (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Here’s a place that taps into Warsaw’s mania for natural produce by blurring the line between delicatessen and restaurant. Replete with a fashionably distressed, post-industrial look, and a menu that blazes with creative dishes, the provenance of the ingredients comes first and foremost. For a full review see p. TK. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl With its weathered brickwork and a long wavy bar occupying a significant chunk of the entrance, you don’t get much more casual than Bibenda. ‘True food’, their menu calls it, before expanding to rattle on about ‘fresh, seasonal ingredients and home-style techniques’. On our visit that involved a potato salad with red onion and parsley: basic stuff, but delicious when mushed together; next, soft duck thigh placed on top of a tangy red cabbage reduction and served with charred parsnips; and dessert, a pink beetroot cake that was gobbled in seconds. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Casual Dining”

Boska Praga ul. Okrzei 23, boskapraga.pl Delivered by the same team behind Dwie Trzecie, Boska Praga does its best to keep everyone happy – and succeeds! Supremely family friendly, the welcome doesn’t just extend to kids, but also to dogs. Set inside a restored industrial facility, this well-designed leviathan maintains an intimacy, despite its size. As for the menu, that keeps all tastes covered with a varied

offer that includes tapas, pizza, burgers and more thoughtful dishes such as ox tongue with pepper sauce. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ The Cool Cat (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients. Small menu and a fashionable crowd, but an immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. $$ Dekant Wine Bar (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Perturbed by the mark-up on wines in Warsaw’s restaurants, owner Daniel Wasilewski has, for the past couple of years, concerned himself with supplying local eateries with top class wine at affordable costs. Now he’s taken the next step, opening his own wine bar in the heart of Powiśle. However, the availability of some of the best wines in the world is only part of the story. A thoughtful menu has gained plaudits for a succinct choice that pairs perfectly with the bottles: e.g. duck confit with potato puree, cherries and apple/pear mousse. $$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.

com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$ InFormal Kitchen (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26 kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, facebook. com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine, and new chef Piotr Ceranowicz already looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$ www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants Kotakota (E3) ul. Bartoszewicza 3 Short of eating in a tunnel, Kotakota is pretty much the darkest place you’ll ever eat in. Filled with donated furniture and peeling plaster walls, this unique restaurant has got people talking thanks to a regularly changing menu that mixes up local ingredients with old recipes and modern techniques. People leave in a state of dumbstruck excitement. $$ Kumpir House (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 59 Ensconced inside an inviting, raw brick room Kumpir’s

a great place to start (or end) your old town exploration

warming aura has as much to do with its food and drink as it does its design. Sip fragrant Turkish coffee while picking through loaded jacket potatoes and desserts made with love. Just steps from the Old Town, its location gives it a further buzz throughout the day. La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, leregina.com A gloriously seductive dining room, Poland’s champion sommelier, and a chef that many recognize as being Michelin potential: put those three together and you have one of the finest experiences to be enjoyed in a Warsaw dining room. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and in October that meant – for this diner at least - tuna with beetroot and yuzu, and a main of beef fillet: electrifyingly good. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Chef Michal Brys might look like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, but his flair for experimentation is second to none: expect a menu that marries local produce with the latest tricks and techniques. The tasting menu (six courses for zł. 199) is a brilliant insight into the mind of a chef who likes to experiment and push boundaries. With all the hype you expect this place to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but. Again, credit for that goes to Brys and his front-of-house staff. $$$

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 59 (just off Plac Zamkowy)

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Entering Loft isn’t far removed from stepping inside a pop art painting: lots of vibrant colors and weird lights inside strings of bubbles. A bi-level venture, the best spot to enjoy the

menu is on the upstairs terrace, a sunny place befitting of options with names like Ding Dong Soup and Embarrassed Chicken. $$ Lokal 14 (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480 Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka 43, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”. Topping his skills off is a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Getting used to being more than a construction site, the opening of Lokal 14 is positive news for this stretch of Świętokrzyska. $$ Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325, The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. You get the idea both the cooking and artisan cocktails need a little fine-tuning, but fundamentally this newbie is looking in the right direction – certainly one to keep a watch for. $$ MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Newcomer” Momu.Gastrobar (c2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking street food bites arrive in little glass jars or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. A full-on revamp means both the menu and interior could stand to see sweeping changes. We’ll be back in May when they’re scheduled to reopen. $ N31 (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cook-

listings / restaurants ing returns with renewed vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. $$$

Naturel ul. Klimczaka 1, naturel7.pl Find here a beautiful space that’s generous on light, polished surfaces and bursts of color from seasonal flowers. Using ingredients largely sourced from the chef’s family farm, Marcin Jabłoński’s menu is a monthly-changing artwork that, on our visit, includes a deep and creamy raviolo, a full-flavored hanger steak with a feisty mushroom ragout, and desserts that are a different class: you want to see the sea buckthorn tart with meringue and avocado/apple ice cream preserved for eternity. $$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp,

modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$

Nowa Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 10, nowaprozna.pl Amazing to think that a few years ago this street looked like it was about to fall down. With Próżna’s restoration nearly complete, along comes the task of filling its ground floor units – consider this venture a successful pacesetter. Founded by the owners of the recently closed R20, the European menu here is a work of flair and modernity. Like the food, the slick white interiors feel just right. $$ Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents

come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Północ Poludnie (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. The sliders are worth exploration: they don’t just consist of beef, but also salmon, egg and chicken. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with

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listings / restaurants a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Renoma (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 22 692 7239, bistrorenoma.pl Here’s a venue that suits all purposes at all times of day. Most of all, it’s a place that feels positive, a place where heart and mind work seamlessly together: that means breakfast to evening options – many of them gluten-free – including fab lunch deals and 60-day aged steaks. Great for afternoon ‘me time’ or a dinner date with a beautiful stranger, Renoma’s intimate style and soothingly stark interiors work with the personalized approach. $$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom. It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef” Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl A spectacular experience from start to finish: begin by walking through a flame-lit tunnel, and then conclude the night with an edible cigar: a grand tobacco flavored pastry infused with whisky and cinnamon. In between our night includes beetroot bread with a teat pipette of apple essence; a beef rib that’s a big blast of smoke and crunch; and a shellfish goulash that’s rich and rough and rolling in flavor. Perfectly paced, expertly portioned and bristling with invention, their newly acquired Michelin star makes bookings essential. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Fine Dining” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a

menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$ Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $ ŚRD / PŁD (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 17 From the same lot behind Powiśle’s Mr. Pancake, so already you know you’re getting yourself into a place that makes a big deal of being zany. So it proves: Coca Cola sausages and burger soup are a couple of dishes that immediately flash up. Beyond this, and the slightly jarring baby pink and powder blue colors, it’s not a bad detour from the culinary norm. We enjoyed the ‘chicken salsa’. $ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, stoldzielnia.pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished

listings / restaurants looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Szklarnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 690 511 020, restauracjaszklarnia.pl The cuisine is influenced by the season, which means plenty of light summer dishes presented with real aplomb. Recognizable by the dazzle of neon and greenhouse outside, this is a restaurant that seamlessly fits with the Soho surrounds. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, tamka.43.pl Ground floor: upmarket cafe serving Chopin fans. Upstairs: a fine dining restaurant in which the seasonal menu sets the natural flavors of Poland against the culinary know-how of tomorrow. It’s easy to drop serious money here, but you’ll still feel it’s worthwhile. $$$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately

sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Znajomi Znajomych (C5) ul. Wilcza 58A, open Mon-Thu 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 13:00-3:00; Sun 13:001:00, znajomiznajomych.waw.pl You can’t label Zna Zna a restaurant because it’s so much more than that: screenings, DJs, yard sales, book readings… there’s not a thing they don’t turn their hand to. But that’s not to say this retro-styled hangout can’t turn their hand to food – here that means light bites, pizzas, burgers and a recommended chili con carne. $$

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and

are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$

Enoteka Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square – and a menu by Paweł Męziński: yep, the same guy who made their kitchen great back when it all first began in

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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listings / restaurants 2009. Add a handpicked wine list from some of the top producers in the world and you have a place that’s definitely one to watch for. Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. $$ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel,

Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean

menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. $$ Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge

Lebanese Restaurant

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Still the Best after all these years (since 1997)!

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

www.lecedre.pl

Restauracja Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104 / 106, 02-620 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 646 42 08 www.restauracjastarydom.pl

Restauracja Zielnik ul. Odyńca 15, 02-608 Warszawa tel.: (+48) 22 844 35 00 www.restauracjazielnik.pl

Restauracja PAPU

Al. Niepodległości 132/136, 02-554 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 856 77 88 www.restauracjapapu.pl

BREAKFAST SERVED ALL DAY

Plac Bankowy 4, Warszawa ZdrowaKonkurencja.pl +48 572 322 222

listings / restaurants venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Łuski i Ości ul. Zajączka 9A, luskiosci.pl A fun design (cool wall art and a wraparound aquarium built into the bar) is ably supported by a comprehensive range of sushi – the imaginative presentation is fitting of some of the more unconventional pieces: the Californian rolls aren’t reticent about involving ingredients such as chili, passion fruit and jalapeno. Ramen Girl (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61 Already a huge hit in Kraków, Ramen Girl’s Warsaw debut has been met with positive reviews. Find the core of the action downstairs, in a basement swathed in concrete and dangling LED filament bulbs. Appealing to post-hipster creative types and other 30-something go-getters, the environment is raw but never sterile nor low on comfort. The star turn belongs to the ramen, with the ‘orange’ (duck breast, orange, pickled cucumber, ginger) doing enough to convince us that RG could yet become a massive success story – full review coming soon. $$ Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Shoku (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-ofmouth. In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industrial-looking spot not far from the Rising

Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Temari (D6) ul. Mokotowska 8, temari.pl Pristine, almost holistic in ambiance, the idea here is to create a top class joint for sushi ‘to go’. No expense has been spared on the packaging, ingredients and overall look, the trouble is, sushi doesn’t naturally keep. Our Little Kyoto Box was full of bright sparkly colors, but the rolls already showed the tell-tale signs of having lost their moisture. Fingers crossed they see sense and start making sushi to order instead – if they do, we have a winner. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl It’s been a magical debut year, that’s for sure. How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. $$

jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants years, and they’ve all quickly folded. Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$

latin & mexican Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant. Com-

mitted to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $ 4

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$ Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the

award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef” Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos. pl Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high

Spanish owner, Spanish chef… SPANISH SOUL! ul. Grzybowska 63 (next to the Hilton Hotel) 00-844 Warszawa +48 22 251 1310 www.tapasgastrobar.pl

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

listings / restaurants

Loco Mexicana (A6) ul. Grójecka 27, locomexicano.pl Everything looks a little second-hand, smudged and smeared. Even the menu is little more than a rumpled pile of papers. And there’s the colors: heavy purples, paintings of Mariachi men and brightly colored throws. It gives you a headache. It doesn’t improve with the food, which is stodgy, limp and generally lifeless. That their lunch deal consisted of Russian pierogi says all you need to know about this supposed Mexican. The reprieve comes in the form of 12 or so beer taps serving a decent selection of punk beers. $ La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, lafiesta.pl What was once a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic turnabout. The sombreros and crap have been replaced by a psychedelic, Day of the Dead-style featuring skeletal Mariachi men, not to mention no shortage of tequila bottles. But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. Is his menu up to scratch? Absolutely no idea. We left after having a run-in with the worst service experienced since the Cold War ended. $ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ Restaurante Bunuel (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554

Spanish-owned Bunuel has left the public in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. $$ Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. $

1.3 8.30 - 91.00 - 12.00 y d n e week st

kfa brea ee kawa do śniadania f za 1,00 zł :) cof

LUNCH 12:00-16:00

TIME 19zł

middle eastern Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Marrakesh (E5) ul. Wilcza 11 Swapping their Jerozolimskie address for a Wilcza postcode, the changes at Marrakesh haven’t just been geographical. Adding meat to their menu, keynote features of this Moroccan hangout number some of the better hummus in town – it’s miles ahead

Orki ałki i wt POniedziay i tuesday d n /MO

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time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is by far the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing. Newly expanded, meaning diners no longer engage in games of Twister while grappling with their burrito. $

ŚNIADANIE ST /BREAKFA0

WI-FI

mule+w ul. Okrzei 23 03-715 WarszaWa tel 22 40 45 489

WWW.bOskapraga.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants of the cement mix found in some spots. Open from 10 a.m., their breakfast (eggs, pita, hummus and tabbouleh) is as decent way as any to start the day. $ Meza Beirut (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 692 7555, mezabeirut.pl God knows how many restaurants have chanced their luck in this location, though Meza Beirut look a better bet than most to break the hex. Lebaneserun, the menu here is comprehensive with all the requisite hot and cold mezze and grilled meats. Early feedback has been largely positive, with decent prices and fresh flavors doing their bit to stir local interest. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl It says a lot for Warsaw’s developing tastes that it can now house a successful Yemeni venture. Bathed in chatter and chaotic kitchen sounds, Sokotra is an informal place with Indian twists on the menu, and a card that encourages plenty of plate sharing. $$

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen. But this is more than a training ground for

future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

listings / restaurants 1841, bazyliszek.waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $ Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Shush! Big Brother is watching in the Red Pig, but the beady-eyed tyrants who stare down from the portraits do little to impede the sense of revelry. A cheeky celebration of days of yore, this commiethemed restaurant is always great fun. The menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the proletariat and the dignitary. Another vodka, comrade, and the first secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer

just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl See in Autumn amid curling pathways and bursting shrubs, or sit inside in an interior that conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$

RESTAURANT &

VODKA

AT E L I E R

Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl The dashing interior causes you to stop, look and touch. On one side, a gleaming bar with twinkling bottles, and on the other, a smart series of rooms whose ash-colored tones are punctuated with dashes of copper. The menu has a traditional heart yet a contemporary style, and includes golonka to make the heart flutter: glorious slow-cooked meat alongside horse radish ice cream and a creamy cabbage mousse. The vodka pairing menu is essential! $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Halka Restaurcja po polsku (E9) ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates. $$ Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead! An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the design (concrete floors, exposed brickwork) features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $ Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006 Exceeding all expectations in their second year, the Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers. Using creative techniques, www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. Incidentally, the sea buckthorn cream was our top dessert of 2015. $$ Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional. Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Sneaked off a lively street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Agata Wojda’s cooking is sublime, and on our latest trip include a gentle goose confit rested on pumpkin puree and prune sauce and a smoked trout mousse full of unexpectedly vivid flavors. It’d be easy to write this off as just simple stuff done well, but you know that’s not the case: if it really were that straightforward, everyone would be pulling it off. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Modern Polish”

Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Falloff-the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style

phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $

listings / restaurants Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Beaver tail one month, carp heads the next. Combing the farms and forests of Poland for his ingredients, chef Aleksander Baron’s menu is a daring exploration of his nose-totail philosophy with many of his methods reprising extinguished traditions. It’s a real experience, and one that’s enjoyed inside a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. $$

Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek. eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013 New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and tender braised veal that’s good for the chills. You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$

U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710 Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food, with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, varso-vie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus.

The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse with mascarpone and passion fruit jelly. Exemplary. $$

Traditional Polish cuisine Live music The best wine, regional beer and spirits Grand Kredens - 19 years full of tradition

scandinavian

Aleje Jerozolimskie 111 tel. +48 22 629 80 08 Mob. +48 697 900 000 kredens@kredens.com.pl www.kredens.com.pl

seafood Zmianu Klimatu (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, zmianuklimatu.pl

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listings / restaurants Fancy looking at tarted up Varosvians whilst eating in your own boat? Do just that at Zmianu Klimatu, a tiny restaurant that somehow manages to squeeze in a sailing boat that seats six or so people. In keeping with the maritime hint, the menu explores the deep blue sea with a small selection of seafood that includes grilled octopus, halibut and bream. $$

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. And don’t miss a chat with the nation’s most celebrated butcher: Pan Grzegorz of Crazy Butcher.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Wed, Fri & Sat, biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. La Fromagerie (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, gourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more. La Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, lapetitefrance.pl Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

listings / restaurants Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the flagship Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early. Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries. Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less!

Mojo Picon (D5) ul. Poznańska 3, mojopicon.pl Mojo Picon specializes in vending Spanish groceries, expressly the produce of the Canary Islands. A creditable charcuterie section is enhanced by an array of cheese, wine and jarred exotica. Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, samira. pl Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks. Steak Club Online orders: steakclub.pl Online meat

portal that will deliver the kind of beef usually only available to the top restaurants straight to your door. Expat owned and run, the repertoire has recently been extended to include other meats such as turkey. Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

steak houses Beef n’Pepper (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 731 307 377 A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a

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listings / restaurants ings and wide open spaces mean intimacy is in short supply. Instead, people talk about the food, which in this case means ultra-cheap piles of Uzbek goodies: delicate manty dumplings with a cream dip and chili kick, or the more substantial lamb plov – a warming heap of rice, mutton, carrots and peppers. Chances are you’re going to love it. $

whole foods Krowazywa (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 881 777 894 ul. Hoża 29/31, ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl Packed with girls wearing skating clothes and moon boots, this burgery makes a big boast that their whole menu is 100% plant-based and their food compiled using ‘the best, freshest, unprocessed and full-balanced ingredients.’ The Warzywex, a burger composed of marinated and grilled slices of local veg, is an absolute winner. $ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been nothing short of fabulous. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568,

lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $ Mango Vegan Street Food (D4) ul. Bracka 20, ul. Dobra 53, mangovegan.pl Everything vegan that you’d actually like to eat: veggie burgers, fries, falafel, soup, a fruit salad – here, obviously a mango salad. Especially recommended is the hummus with sun-dried tomatoes – a nice twist on a simple classic dish. $ Momencik (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Vegan burritos may sound wrong, but at Momencik they’re every bit as good as anything you’ll be used to. The only difference is that you won’t leave feeling like you’ve eaten a sack of socks: on the contrary, it’s got all the perky flavour that Mexican food should have, but none of the unpleasant post-meal bloaty bubbles. And it’s cheap! Diners fork out less than zł. 22 for a lunch deal that includes their soup of the day: on our visit that meant an outstanding tomato soup. $ Vegan Pizza (D5) ul. Poznańska 7 While the place lacks effort on the design front (a plain room with local radio piped around), the pizza is pretty good. There’s 24 to pick from, and while it’s

not love at first bite, there’s a tendency to get strangely hooked by the new tastes and alien sensations. Definitely an interesting departure from the high street pizzerias. Recommended: Italian Madness – melty cheese and herby bursts of pesto. $ Vege Bistro ul. Kopernika 25, vegebistro.pl The clue is in the name. We dropped in for a vege burger and, using Krowarzywa as the benchmark, were left a little underwhelmed. But a follow-up visit brought much better luck, with a peppery mushroom goulash doing its job of keeping chills at bay. The cakes, too, are a genuine pleasure. Vurst (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Who in their right mind opens a tiny, little joint in the back streets of Saska and then fills the interior with a life size Darth Vader and a board that asks customers to: “Stay Tuned and Praise Our Lord Satan”? Specializing in vegan hot dogs, the dawgs themselves are small and soggy: the kind of damp disappointment you buy at the gas station. $ Youmiko Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Hoża 62 Already well-established in Kraków, Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame on Wilcza nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’. $

THE ONLY MODERN SOUTH AMERICAN CUISINE IN WARSAW

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listings / restaurants thai Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, basillime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$

celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai something of a must. $ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a snappy, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their

Uzbek Manty (C3) ul. Elektoralna 24 Even with its colorful throws and woodsy knickknacks Manty’s high ceil-

Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100 An anonymous design and out-of-town location never stopped guests flocking here. But that stands to change after the departure of chef Chanunkan Duangkumma. What was Warsaw’s best Thai now finds itself facing the biggest challenge of its existence. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, suparomthaifood.pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and vibrant colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$

Thaisty (C2) pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. $$

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTEWORTHY

WINO & FRIENDS (ul. Pokorna 2, winoandfriends.pl) Having spent years flat-lining, Muranów has finally got its act in gear. This wine bar / restaurant nails the neighbourhood angle well with a wide selection of wines from France, Italy and Spain, and a menu inspired by the tastes of the Mediterranean. Above all, the atmosphere feels right: like all good wine bars, the interior finds a middle ground between fancy and casual, making it a sound choice for date nights and meet-ups.

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39 We’re told the interiors were purposefully kept neutral to keep the focus on the product – and crikey, what bread. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. Some claim it’s the best bakery in Poland, and we’re not arguing. Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger. Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com The battle lines are drawn: on one side it’s the slobs of Plan B, and on the other the snobs of Charlotte. While the fancy crowd (all jangling Porsche keys and idiotic selfies) isn’t to everyone’s liking, Charlotte’s baked goods are commonly hailed as things of rare beauty. Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

PRZYSTANEK WILCZA (ul. Wilcza 17, przystankismaku.pl) This attractive looking venue works equally well as either a café or a restaurant. Where the latter is concerned, customers have a choice of light bites that involve breakfasts, pierogi and assorted local dishes. As a café, then this split-level spot boasts a strong selection of homemade cakes and sweets to go alongside a strong black coffee.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that many are already calling the best in Warsaw. Aside from baguettes, muffins, croissants, etc. this smart corner unit has a superb wine list and a smattering of main courses that include flat iron steak. SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, sam.info.pl A central, communal

listings / cafés & wine bars table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata KusinaDoran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc.

Zdrowa Konkurencja Pl. Bankowy 4, zdrowakonkurencja.pl It’s taken a while, but slowly Pl. Bankowy is being turned into a place you don’t just rush through on the way back from work. Aside from piping hot, fresh wheels of bread, visitors are popping in to collect readymade bagels and sandwiches loaded with pulled pork, pastrami and other such bites.

cafés Bali Café Złote Tarasy, Blue City & Galeria Mokotów, balicafe.pl This chain of dim sum bars provides sustenance for those turned-off by the more typical mall offerings. Inspired by the owner’s travels to Bali, this café does its best to lock out the retail surrounds and give shoppers a break. Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1 The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. Bubbleology (D4) ul. Chmielna 26, bubbleology.pl Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. Warsaw’s original bubble tea stop offers an arsenal of fruit flavors concocted by zany-looking lab-coated staff. Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style

to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal. Charlotte Menora (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Set to become a cornerstone fixture of new look Pl. Grzybowski, Charlotte Menora is already proving popular with fashionistas, success stories and plonkers. But if the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are pretty good. Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25 Maybe resurrecting a legend wasn’t such a good idea after all. People once traveled from all across Warsaw to meet here, but after several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management it’s a mere shadow of what it once was. Shame. A place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, it just needs people to stir it into life. Chmiel Café (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, chmielcafe.pl Rows and rows of Belgian beers occupy the shelves, while behind the counter find pedigree treats, cakes and ice cream from the Slow Food approved Consonni brand. Forget the industrial rubbish, the ice cream produced by this lot is an absolute standout. With the outdoor terrace making its debut, it’s the ideal family solution with something for everyone. Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Deviating away from ‘the

Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee. Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level. Cukiernia Miodowa (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15 Gone are the days when Warsaw’s dessert / pastry shops were communist relics overseen by half-mad old bats. The rise of upscale dessert stores continues unchecked with the latest, Cukiernia Miodowa, possibly the most exciting launch thus far. Offering five-course ‘dessert tasting menus’, truffles, tarts, pralines and Warsaw’s first cronut, expect to be hearing a lot about this operation in the coming few months. Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom. pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field. Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital. Deseo ul. Angorska 27 & Nowy Świat 28, deseopatisserie.com Conducting operations from a glassed-off laboratory at Deseo’s mothership in Saska Kępa, watching pastry chef Piotr www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / cafés & wine bars Chylarecki at work is to witness a mix of magic and science: you’re not sure which. Calculated precision and intricate methods collide with passion and understanding for the products at hand, themselves sourced from afar afield as Madagascar and the Dominican Republic. The denouement is a selection of pralines and cakes that cause you to stop and stare at these intricate baubles.

Drop Juice Bar (B4) ul. Sienna 81 (enter from Żelazna), drop. waw.pl mWhether your body is a temple or a dustbin, squeeze in a visit to the Drop Juice bar (enter through the slidey door leading to the MD Clinic). Specializing in cold pressed juices, smoothies and superfoods, they make a point of using natural products only. Expect no artificial additives, no pasteurizing and no water cheating its way into your drink. Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

French Bistro Cafe Bakery Nowy Świat 27 Phone: 22 826 44 61 www.petitappetit.com.pl Open Mon - Sun 8:00 - 23:00

Kosmos (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2 It’s all coming together nicely for Pl. Grzybwoski, and the opening of places like Kosmos is only good news. It’s relatively small floorplan swings in its favor, with this café’s natural intimacy working well with a design that features mismatched furnishings, a bouncy sofa, a mirrored wall and a timberclad bar. Grab a bagel (possibly the best Warsaw’s seen?), order coffee and then fix yourself on the views of the square glistening under the first spring light. Krucza 23 Café & Bakery (D5) ul. Krucza 23 They didn’t spend much time thinking about the name, that’s a given, but that’s not to say creativity is entirely absent. There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light. Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1 & ul. Zwycięzców

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49 Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil. Mała Ziemiańska (D7) ul. Oleandrów 2/4, malaziemianska.pl Sat as it is on a street that’s become the Center of Now, Mała Ziemiańska is a pleasing throwback to slower times. Designed to evoke the artistic spirit of the mid-19th century, this warming café is steeped in shadow and curiosities. A celebration of pre-war Warsaw, the literary pretensions of this bolthole find the walls clad with archaic books and sepia photos of the city that once was. May places like this flourish. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe. MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 A place full of everlasting love for the humble donut. Inspired by their travels to New York, owners Kamila and Patrycja have filled a hole in the market by creating a cool spot that’s committed to

listings / cafés & wine bars natural ingredients and the artisan process. Those glistening technicolors you see are down to the use of fresh fruit and dried flowers! Soft and chewy, enjoy dazzling flavors such as mango or hibiscus. Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. Odette (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems. Constructed in the adjoining ‘food lab’, these are desserts fit to grace fine dining moments. Odette Tearoom (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl If you thought those living in Warsaw’s swankiest residential tower – the Cosmopolitan – had it tough, then you’ve got one more reason to envy them: the ground floor Odette Tearoom. Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked

selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while autumn sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd. Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1 The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. Concerts and comedy nights keep business ticking on quieter days.

Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19 You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest. Sok Bar (E3) ul. Tamka 22/24, sokbar.com The star turn belongs to the juices and smoothies, which you’ll find served in a variety of ways: including 50ml shots. Look out for the ‘Hangover’, a combination of orange, gherkin, apple and lemon juice – it really is capable of healing after-party maladies. Square 5 (C2) Pl. Bankowy 3/5 Square 5 comes as a pleasant surprise amidst the desert that is Pl. Bankowy. Combine their extensive blackboard menu with a countertop heavy with freshly-baked goods from their own oven and you newcomers may be positively overwhelmed. As for their coffee, that’s premium Ionia il Caffe, and it comes in all forms: from the traditional cappuccino to more daring coconut macchiato. Stockholm Bar & Canteen (D6) ul. Mokotowska 22 Looking for cold ribbons

The award-winning Enoteka Polska is back, this time with a new location in the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town. A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money. Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl tel. 882 048 012

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listings / cafés & wine bars of pink roast beef with potato salad? Or maybe a pile of meatballs with cranberry and veg? If so, then take refuge in Stockholm, an ice cool space with a typically, contemporary Scandinavian aesthetic. Expats hailing from directly up north disagree on the results, but we’ve so far found no fault with the mussels. Nor, for that matter, the Sitting Bulldog IPA. Stor (E3) ul. Tamka 33 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about. Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls. Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

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Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Dekant Wine Bar ul. Zajęcza 15, decant.com.pl Expectations are high: even before they opened Wine Spectator magazine bequeathed Dekant with an ‘Award of Excellence’. Just what’s the buzz about? Primarily a wine choice that is set to eventually extend beyond 500 wines. Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground.

Enoteka (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska. pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square – and a menu by Paweł Męziński: yep, the same guy who made their kitchen great back when it all first began in 2009. Add a handpicked wine list from some of the top producers in the world and you have a place that’s definitely one to watch for. Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues with the appearance of Heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled floors, and simple, well-thought interiors. With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, Heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an

ascendant new money crowd. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels. This vibrant space promises much, not least on account of an inner terrace deck that you know is going to be the talk of this summer. The Pope & The Pig Al. Jana Pawła II 61 Set on the ground floor above the subterranean Ramen Girl restaurant, the December opening of this joyously titled bar saw a Warsaw first: the city’s first wine bar dealing solely with natural wine. There’s over 80 to choose from, and they’ve been matched to a small, perfectly formed menu authored by Luisa Trisno. Lending it further edge is an interior that’s contemporary and fashionably understated. Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Wine Taste By Kamecki (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4 Run by Piotr Kamecki, President of the Polish Association of Sommeliers, this beautiful glass-fronted unit functions both as a wine bar and store offering expert advice, cellar design and tastings. WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge.

nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

THE BEER BAR (Al. KEN 52) No residential suburb has grasped Poland’s ‘piwo-lution’ with the quite the same enthusiasm as Ursynów. With inside seating for little more than 15 or so customers, The Beer Bar is possibly the smallest of the nightlife additions, but it makes up for these shortcomings through its friendly welcome and dark, polished interiors. Expect ten taps and numerous bottles lapped up by an audience on first name terms with the barman. The outdoor seating is already a hit.

bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual. Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite… The Alchemist (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl What about this then – a tap bar that skips the problem of people bugging the bar staff with stupid questions with a self-service ‘beer wall’ that relies on pre-paid plastic cards as a form of payment. As for the choice, that’s nothing radical but there’s plenty of decent sips that all drinkers can understand. There’s more to like about this particular Alchemist: long and narrow, the design is modern yet full of little details and eccentricities – it feels edgy enough for pre-club drinks, smart enough for business lunch and comfortable enough for all those times in between. Bar & Books (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen through a thin winter mist, this white townhouse radiates warmth: lights glimmer, piano music tinkles. Wood-paneled and lined with leather-bound tomes, there’s a sense of dignity that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail scene. There’s humor, as well, courtesy of portraits of chimps togged out like 18th century gentry. Similar to a members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ cocktails mixed and muddled by the sort of charming bartenders you’d trust serving Bond.

PALMIER (ul. Żurawia 6/12, palmier.pl) A beautiful palm-filled interior scrubs up well with the high ceilings, colonnades and stonework, though it’s the outdoor terrace that promises to be the place to be seen over the coming summer months. While they’ve marketed themselves as a bistro / brasserie, the old-school author’s cocktails look set to make it a night time sensation.

Bar Gemba (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52 Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras. Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / nightlife artsy Poles in the early 00s. Replacing the oddly downcast Jedna Trzecia, Gemba slots in well amongst the other post-hipster bars in the area.

in facilitating slurred conversations with a variety of strangers. Not surprisingly, evenings often extend beyond the advertised closing time of 4 a.m.

Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, barwarszawa.pl Thick with alcoholic fumes and the sound of drunken tantrums, Bar Warszawa excels in its role as a late night dive bar. Split on two levels, upstairs is where most head to flop around a retro lounge interior filled with nostalgic decorations that tempt kleptomaniacs. The cut price shots and pints do their bit

Bar Warszawa De Luxe (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most. Bar Wieczorny (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl Preparing for their first summer, it’s going to be one helluva’ place to visit once the weather heats up: that garden is going to get naughty! The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game. Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13 There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

10% discount*

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Bardziej ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów) Its thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This split-level bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials. The later it gets, the better it is. Beerokracja (D5) Marszałkowska 99/101, beerokracja.pl You can forget that it’s just opened, the subterranean Beerokracja isn’t far removed from the

student union bars you may have frequented 20 years back: Nirvana and Hendrix posters, live bands, a big screen for football and lots of shouty background din. But despite looking like it was rustled up in a day the place works faultlessly: find a great line-up of new wave beers served by a staff who prefer to pour your beer first than answer the phone that’s ringing in their pocket. Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank. Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja) Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia. Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces. A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews. Bierhalle Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd. What has remained constant is the energy. Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

listings / nightlife British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, bbpub.pl In terms of aesthetic it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment. Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29. Ceska (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Having promised to never return following an incident with a nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds. Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia. waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw. pl With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see

into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons! Ciechan Na Foksal (A4) ul. Foksal 18, ciechan.com.pl/foksal If you’re happy to overlook the unsavory politics of the brewery’s owner, then you’ll doubtless enjoy the flagship bar of the BRJ brewing company. Find 16 taps showcasing their portfolio of regional beers, among them Ciechan, Lwówek and Bojan. The food is largely a stodge-fest, something that sits ill at ease with the smart, brick interiors. Maybe something more rugged would have worked better, but hey, who cares, it’s about the beer, right? Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in a miniature form. The only problem? By their very nature, cocktails aren’t concocted in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around is like Death by a Thousand Cuts.

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Column Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol) Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless. In summer, enjoy your drinks out in the beautifully tranquil courtyard. Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer.

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listings / nightlife Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success. Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. Heritage Birreria Artigianale (E3) ul. Tamka 9 A new twist on the multi-tap concept, Heritage’s hook is their obsession with Italian and British gypsy breweries. Eyes naturally fall on ten taps dispensing beers from Thornbridge, San Gabriel, Birrificio Milano, etc., and while the drawn-out pouring time can frustrate, most agree that the drinks are worth the wait. Find a well-presented middle-aged crowd squashed inside a tiny little unit that’s often full to capacity. Hoppiness (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31 You’re in good hands

here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor. There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray! Hopsters (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul. Nowolipki) You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz. Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Even in an area bulging with bars, Jabeerwocky has become a point of pilgrimage for beer aficionados. If the creative line-up of guerrilla breweries wasn’t enough, then there’s the management’s readiness to roll their sleeves up and even brew their own beer. Add to that an atmosphere of general hubbub (and more than two toilets!) and you have our favorite tap bar of all time! Junior (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12 Warsaw is bloated with bars for that big Friday night. Sometimes though, you want something a bit more personal: a place with good beer but an intimate atmosphere. A haunt where the owners know your name and will happily keep serving for as long as you’re drinking. Junior is that place, a warm little room with five or so taps serving out craft beer, and a promise to become Warsaw’s primary port of call for all things relating to whisky. Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers are fine. Karmnik (D2) ul. Piwna 4A, karmnik.waw.pl Close to sinking into dive bar territory, Karmnik have rejigged their interior, added a list of flashy

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listings / nightlife cocktails and recruited a few DJs to give the place a pre-club spirit. As revamps go it’s been entirely successful, with the only sticking point (sometimes literally), being the unisex toilet. The origami birds hanging from the ceiling, btw, are a reference to the post-war period when an old lady who fed the pigeons took-up brief residence in the ruins of where you now drink. Karowa 31 (D3) ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed by Bram, the former manager of the London Cocktail Club. Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious! Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though. Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage. Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz ul Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars.

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Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, kwadrat.waw.pl Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to spread the gospel of regional and new wave beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd. Lazy Dog (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl For the cocktail bar, visit a small side room that’s attractively decorated with lots of copper fittings, hanging filament bulbs and high-quality bottles. The cocktails number around ten house specialties with names like Long Island Nice Tea and Have You Been A Good Girl. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

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listings / nightlife Machinarium (E4) ul. Smolna 36, machinarium.pub Unfurling in a metallic greenish haze the ground floor isn’t too dissimilar from a ship’s hull: the bar is all bolts and rivets, and the whole ‘age of travel’ theme is further explored through illustrative paintings of steam engines, zeppelins and other flying contraptions – Jules Verne would love it. The basement offers something else entirely: a rambling white painted space whose minimal design is punctuated with the occasional lantern, clock and reject store sofa. The four beer taps see frequent rotation and the fridge is kept busy with new wave beer. Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4 Hands up who loves good beer? Thought so. Małe Piwo have been a sensation since opening, preempting the craft beer trend and in the process attracting huge crowds of every sub-section of the hipster community. The choice of bottles is immense, and enjoyed in an edgy, dive bar background that’s snugger than a mouse’s waistcoat. Między Ustami (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 With the celebrated Hendrick’s gin so prominently pimped, it makes sense that the quirky design of Między Ustami is more in line with a Victorian apothecary than anything else. Peculiarities particular to this era are abundant (nonsensical wall paintings featuring fairies and fantastical creatures) and are matched

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against deep forest colors and copious wood and leather. It’s Lewis Carrol meets Phileas Fogg, with suitably creative cocktails to boot. Multitap Bla Bla (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 22, blabla.com.pl Looking murky and in need of a good scrub (and that’s just the glasses), you feel Bla Bla is simply here to suck up overspill from its more high-profile neighbors. Ten taps here, usually carrying beers you know inside out. But you will find a seat and there’s a kebab shop next door. Na Lato (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44 Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the basement club area has the added boon of a glassed-in smoking room. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans. The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit. OSP Saka Kępa ul. Walecznych 74, ospsaskakepa.pl A little on the small side, the interior features several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks (it’s in a fully functioning fire station!). Panorama Sky Bar (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map

listings / nightlife of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), open 24 hrs We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells and queue scrum. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-of-term street party. Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Pyk i Łyk (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 26 Thundering through a flimsy door, customers are met by a tiny, divey area that’s devoid of furnishings aside from shelves of vodka and a bar that’s been painted to depict dripping blood. Yikes! Decorated with bizarre montages of hard drinking rockers, once visitors settle into their vodka rhythm, it reveals itself as a bar of greatness. “No wi-fi,” shouts one sign, “talk to each other and get drunk.” It’s that kind of place. Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10 Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists, couples and beer enthusiasts. There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty’s debut is more than welcome. Same Krafty Vis-a-Vis ul. Nowomiejska 11/13 You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite. Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber. Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Solec 44 (F3) ul. Solec 44, solec.waw.pl A ghastly commie-era pavilion is the unlikely home of this Powiśle mainstay. The food – a gloriously gory celebration of nose-to-tail cooking – is spot on, but so too are the drinks. The bottled beers reflect the exciting times in the Polish brewing industry, but forego these in favor of a stunning cocktail list that makes use of seasonal ingredients and homemade syrups and mixes. The design of Julian Karewicz, these are drinks that stop you in your tracks:

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listings / nightlife the sea buckthorn vodka sour is pure boozy bliss. Syreni Śpiew (F5) ul. Szara 10A, syrenispiew.pl Set in a beautifully restored piece of PRL concrete, Syreni Śpiew’s lasting popularity has proved the doubters wrong. This is not some one season wonder, rather a place that has gone from strength to strength. Primarily known for its hefty whisky offer (which is divided into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan), the cocktails also stand up to scrutiny on account of their consistent quality. A genuinely unique drinking experience with cool elements of retro chic. Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytcuji 2, varso-vie.pl A cool bar / restaurant decorated with art that’s both sensual and suggestive. Behind the bar, homemade syrups, seasonal ingredients and high caliber alcohol are all present, but so to the most important component: the staff who can handle them. Try the Polish Colada: involving Bols Natural Yogurt, Pawlina vodka, pineapple, lemon and sprinkling of chocolate, it’s a superb drink that does a grand job of rehabilitating a largely derided classic.

The View (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club looks set to reinvent the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly worldclass venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. The look is sleek and stylish. Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and natives of all ages. Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

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The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as a hipster Center of Power, you’ll know if you belong. Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11 A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals. Zorza (F5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work. But with even the sun sweating this summer, do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. Żyrafa (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22 Sucked inside it’s green/ blue glow, visitors all but collide against the bar with a swing of the door. It’s just 15 sq/m, but that doesn’t stop drinkers rolling in. “There’s some nights we’ve had 30 people in here,” says the barman, a thought that both terrifies and exhilarates in equal measure. Yet not only does it have an atmosphere, it’s as clean as crystal: a place you’d comfortably linger with (slightly) more glamorous friends.

clubs Blok (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 57, blokbar.pl Up a million stairs you go before hitting a stained-looking venue with plenty of mirrored disco balls and adverts for Mr. Leather. The atmosphere is upbeat and inclusive and the dance floor can get seriously euphoric when the DJs hit their game. And hat’s off to the smoking room, a dark, narrow cell that’s all but bare but for silhouettes and shadows: through the distortion of the grimy glass, snatch an almost spectral view of the Palace of Culture.

DJ Bar (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, djbar.pl Edge down a set of concrete steps to find a riot of tangled bodies celebrating a music policy based – depending on the night – around hip hop, soul, funk and electronica. Luminous shots from the longest bar in town ratchet the party up an extra notch. Eufemia (D3) Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 (enter via ul. Niżyńskiego), klubojadalniaeufemia. blogspot.com Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished with VHS tapes, student artwork and furniture looted from your grandparents dining room. The claustrophobic atmosphere lends itself well to intimate gigs that see everything from improvised instrumentals to bands called Graveyard Drug Party. Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. Klubo (D3) ul. Czackiego 3/5, klubo.pl You can almost feel this club’s legendary status as you, descend down into their basement. Dark, vibrant and decorated in a way that evokes the glory years of the 80s and 90s, tip down their house cocktails inside and writhe alongside other clubbers in a series of deep reddish rooms banging out house, disco and R&B sounds. Check their web for deals, offers and opening times. Level 27 (B5) Al. Jerzolimskie 123 (Millennium Building), level27.pl Set on the 27th floor of the Millennium Building, Level 27 promises a world class clubbing experience with open air views of the city down below. In more ways than one, you’ll rarely feel closer to the stars. Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark,

listings / nightlife grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better. Nowa Jerozolima (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 57 Once serving as a children’s hospital (and allegedly haunted to high heavens by the screams of its former patients), this tenement has been repurposed as a multi-floored club that feels dank and squalid. The belly of the beast is a main room that rattles with domestic and international electro acts lapped up by a crowd that’s already lost its marbles by 11 p.m.

live music Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35 Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks. Untouched by the area’s gentrification, it’s a true bastion of genuine cool.

May Gigs

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds. Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself. Sofia (D6) ul. Polna 13, klubsofia.pl A.k.a The Bulgarian Embassy, Sofia have rebuilt the reputation earned during their city center heyday in the naughty noughties. Sure, the atmosphere is more restrained than in their former location, but the dancers aren’t.

07.05 Steve Weeks Johnson 13.05 Weronika Lewandowska (Voice of Poland) 14.05 Sean & Roy 21.05 Marcin Czyzewski X Factor (Voice of Poland)

28.05 Champions League Final

Warsaw’s Expat Bar, Live Music, Live Sports, Authentic Mexican Food, Great Drinks, Outdoor Beer Garden, Best Atmosphere in town. ul. Wilcza 46, warsawtortillafactory.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels… Anacomito tel. 515 634 010, anacomito.com Luxuriouslooking waist bags make for fashion that’s both modern and logical. More so, it makes the outsized bags of yesteryear increasingly redundant. Either order online, or look out for their presence at Warsaw’s various urban markets.

INSIDER’S PICK BALTHAZAR Regardless of what you use as a benchmark of style, there’s no disputing that the Aquascutum trench coat is a fashion classic. Immortalized by Humphrey Bogart in the film Casablanca, the double breasted cut of the Kingsway model is the epitome of timeless sophistication. Possibly, it is this that first captures the imagination of the casual browser. Throwing one on for size, it’s hard to resist busting your best Bogie look and talking to the mirror: “Louis, I think this is the start of a beautiful relationship.” Maybe, one can speculate, it’s that fleeting Bogart moment of escape that has seduced customers and earned Balthazar their unwavering devotion. Whatever it is, that Balthazar has become almost a way of life is not up for question. Now in their sixth year of operation, their success has been such that a new store was demanded: opened in April, their new Mokotowska base quickly illustrates why many discerning gentlemen now look no further when expanding their wardrobe. Sprinkled with dapper finds, this is the bottom line in dashing finesse: hand-sewn leather bags from the Neapolitan brand Sartoria Partenopea; shoes from Carmina; bamboo handled umbrellas produced by Francesco Maglia; and silk ties and pocket squares from the Franco Bassi workshop in Como. First and foremost though, it is Balthazar’s reputation for their bespoke tailoring services that has contributed to their rise. Working in collaboration with a number of Italian tailors and manufacturers, the whole creation process lasts around five weeks from the initial measuring to the final delivery: ring ahead to book your consultation. BALTHAZAR ul. Mokotowska 64, balthazar.pl

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Bagatt ul. Mokotowska 28, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), bagatt.pl A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży. Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów)The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances. BeautyLab Polska beautylablondon.pro Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care. Calvin Klein ul. Mysia 3 Poland’s first Calvin Klein concept store is dedicated to watches, jewelry and assorted beautiful shiny things that everyone covets. Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, chiara-online.pl You’d never

listings / shopping expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. di Trevi Boutique Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury. Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka) Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3 The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula. Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista. Minty Dot ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and

Omega Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, omegawatches. com Newly opened, Poland’s first Omega boutique showcases watches, leather accessories and jewelry across 200 sq/m of luxury real estate. Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40 A collection of hand-selected

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listings / shopping eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris. Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes. And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!” Schubert ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? Stara Mydlarnia Various locations inc. ul. Chmielna 4, mydla. pl Handmade cosmetics such as fragrant soaps, bath gels and salts, body butters, massage oils and aromatic candles. Ideal for home pampering. Time To... Design Shop ul. Poznańska 7, timeto.com.pl Discoveries include quirky, spiky bags from MadPax, Haribo jewelry adorned with Gummy Bears and animal print mugs from Pikczersy. Above all though, the place is about timepieces, namely highly individualistic works from the S.T.A.M.P.S brand: averaging around zł. 100, this is as affordable as talking points get.

antiques Antykwariat na Tamce ul. Tamka 45B, antykwariat-tamka.pl How can you not love this second hand store? Presided over by a super-friendly hippy-looking dude, consider this a mine of rare vinyl (Beatles, Hendrix, Sabbath, weird Polish PRL stuff), as well as 15,000 comics and books (inc. plenty of sci-fi and historical interest). Kolo ul. Obozowa 99, gieldastaroci.waw.pl What

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. Half-junkyard, half treasure trove, it’s an experience in itself. Kwadryga ul. Wilcza 29, kwadryga.com Entered through a courtyard, it’s a magnet for bibliophiles, and groans with antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past. Lamus ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel. 22 831 63 21, lamus. pl Another antique bookstore that comes filled with leather-bound tomes, regal looking scrolls and elaborate maps. Also known for their pre-war prints and paintings of Warsaw before it was knocked down.

The Polish-language choice is broad, and whilst the number of English-language could be extended everyone finds the atmosphere irresistible. Fundacja Bęc Zmiana ul. Mokotowska 65/7, beczmiana.pl A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. Księgarnia Bullerbyn ul. Chmielna 10, bullerbyn.com.pl A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! Moda Na Czytanie ul. Bracka 25 Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of English-language books that range from classics to contemporary fiction.

Lapidarium ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, lapidarium.pl Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… Lapidarium is possibly one of the most famed antique stores in the capital, and presents the opportunity for endless rummaging.

Super Salon ul. Chmielna 10, supersalon.org Filled with beautiful titles, Super Salon dedicates itself to books, magazines and albums covering weighty subject matter such as photography, design, erotica and architecture. Represented publishers include Phaidon, Gestalten and Steidl.

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fashion

Atticus ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 12, atticus. pl You can smell the history in this old curiosity shop; set just a few meters from the gates of the university, this antiquarian bookstore has a rich stock of dusty tomes piled higgledy-piggledy on towering shelves. Although Polish is the dominant language, English-language texts are also present and procurable in this hoarder’s heaven.

American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

Books For Cooks ul. Inżynerski 1, booksforcooks.pl Just guess what the specialty here is? And if the Praga address deters you, then click to their web to find a hefty offer of original language cook books, memoirs, restaurant guides and assorted foodie must-haves. Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl A cafe / bookstore hybrid that you’d imagine doing well in Paris.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Balthazar ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. Cafardini ul. Grzybowska 5A, cafardini.com Complete

listings / shopping suits start at zł. 2,600 and rise to zł. 4,500, depending on the fabric. Using the finest natural raw materials, Cafardini even offer a ‘suit spa’ – a special care package that will see you suit regain its fresh look if it has been worn intensively. Chrum ul. Dobra 53, chrum.com Amid a quirky design that mimics a butcher’s store, find a cult collection of tees and hoodies emblazoned with playful slogans and punchy graphics. Showcasing the fun side of Polski design, Chrum caters to customers who enjoy their fashion with a pinch of humor. di Trevi Boutique ul. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury. EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with

30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories. Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, joannaklimas.com One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Vauthier, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Pierre Balmain, Ralh Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

L’Aura ul. Mokotowska 26 Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Mostrami.pl mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and

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Our boutique offers shoes for both men and women sourced from Italy by the owner. Featuring prestigious brands otherwise unavailable on the Polish market, our models are always in line with the latest trends with each pair unique and unrepeatable. ul. Piękna 11A, tel. 22 617 2222, ditrevi.pl

We are a men’s fashion design studio with our own fashion label. Our concept is based around the unique but well-recognized Scandinavian style. Our brand values simplicity in its design while placing emphasis on details. ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 339 222, reykjavikdistrict.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / shopping Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power. Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, Nowy Świat 1, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Christian Louboutin, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Yves Salomon, Pierre Balmain, Beach Bunny, Kotur, Marc by Marc Jacobs, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Victoria Beckham.Kolekcje dla dzieci: Baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids. Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner. Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7 Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200? Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering. Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design. Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented.

Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious. Blind Concept Store ul. Mokotowska 63/100, tel. 501 770 661 From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution. Find it all from eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday and Woodyglasses, killer heels from United Nude and Melissa & Vivienne Westwood, etc Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, placunii.pl Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, mysia3. pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

family activities

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

FASHION: MOTHER & DAUGHTER!

Guitar Classes Tel. 732 860 825, arekniezgoda@hotmail. com Private guitar lessons either at your place or in a private studio in Wilanów. Classic, acoustic and electric guitar taught by Arek, a 35-year old teacher who covers most styles from classic to pop/rock. Previous work experience includes teaching in private music schools in California and at The British School of Warsaw. Both kids and adults are welcome.

KOTO (Solec 81B, kotobizuteria.pl) The arcades under Poniatowskiego Bridge are home to KoTo, a small fashion nook for everyone from babies to babes. The brand (which designs and produces its apparel in Poland), knows what every girl/woman wants; staple wardrobe pieces that must be comfortable, washable, affordable and stylish – all at the same time! A layered tulle skirt might not seem practical for busy mums, but its maximum Vogue appeal is apparently topped by the minimum maintenance required. Alongside soft t-shirts with delicate lace sleeves and cool tunic dresses you’ll find chunky knits and handmade accessories for all ages.

Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl Children with excessive energy levels should head to Hangar 646. Located in a former airport hangar, the 2,700 sq/m of trampoline space includes a swimming pool of sponges. Children from three years old are welcome to let off steam, with instructors available to teach acrobatics and suchlike; or you can just bounce off walls!

MUM & DAUGHTER (mamaicorka.com) Mum, Iwona Czuchaj, has come up with a brand designed for the mum and tot who love fashion. Her dresses, sweatshirts and cool-looking wraparound vests/coats are all made in Poland from comfortable cottons and quilted fabrics. Muted colors like dusty pink, mossy green and stone grey tend to dominate the collection: our favorite piece is the boldly patterned puffball skirt at zł. 85/250 – very cute. Available online and at fashion markets (Plac Unii: May 18-20).

Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook and eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat.

KOPYTKO MAMUTA (pictured) (Boya-Żeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta.pl) Think juicy colored ballerinas, soft pastel loafers or timeless Mary-Janes; this petit shoe shop has them all for toddler’s tootsies up to a European 38/40 shoe. Alongside exquisite collections from Spain and France, Kopytko also has shoes exclusively designed for them and made in Poland by the Emel brand. Alas, quality, style and comfort do not come cheap (zł. 165-350). Nonetheless, happy feet are worth the investment! (GBB)

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56 & ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, tel. 22 842 0728, thelittlegym.eu Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / family original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well. Mums & Tots mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web. Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, golfparkspoland.pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course. Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, zacheta.art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

APPLY NOW 2016/2017

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education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.

pl, thebritishschool.pl The Early Years Foundation Stage is where a lifetime of learning begins. The British School, Warsaw provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu. pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

listings / family offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and fulltime places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, open Mon-Fri 7.30-18:00, argonaut.edu.pl This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities. Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months

to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, 3languages. pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world

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listings / family class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School

environment. We take children from the international community through the key learning stages so that they achieve to the best of their best ability through a fun learning experience.

(multiple locations)

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, thebritishschool.pl Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a wellestablished International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Programme.

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Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu. pl Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School are set to open their Erdkinder Montessori Middle School as of September 2016. Located at Tatrzańska 5A they promise an extraordinary opportunity for study, work and for daily living. Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep.edu.pl An English primary school designed to prepare children for their next steps in education in a friendly, caring and nurturing

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadianschool.pl, canadian-school.pl Provides a

listings / family continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public Psycho-Pedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel. 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The

fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

American School of Warsaw is hosting an Open House for prospective families.

Come experience us in action! • Tour the school • Interact with administrators, faculty and students

• Receive admissions information

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26 30 25 20 Bielawa, ul. Warszawska 202 05-520 Konstancin Jeziorna, Poland www.aswarsaw.org ASW open house.indd 1

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health & beauty cycling stores & service Bikeman Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant. Accessories include helmets, gloves, backpacks plus everything you need to revive your bike if it passes out. Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572 Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out.

golf

SPAS FOR MEN

ALCHEMY DAY SPA (ul. Klonowa 20, dayspa.pl) Manicures and pedicures conducted using Dead Sea salt, aromatic peeling to regenerate the skin, and the Del Cesar package (zł. 645 for 4.5 hrs) which promises a ‘holistic experience’ through the use of citrus oils and semi-precious stones. AMBASADA URODY (ul. Hlonda 2 & Wilcza 9A, ambasadaurody.pl) A range of skin treatments aimed at eradicating any problems with dry or oily skin, rosacea, discoloration, erythema and bags under the eyes. Spa packages ‘for him’ include ultrasonic skin cleansing, Indian-style massage, citrus body massage and a ‘waterfall spa’ to restore energy. MD CLINIC (ul. Dzielnicowa 19, studiomd.pl) Packages specifically aimed at men include botox, skin jet and peeling treatments to deal with acne, lines, rosacea, hyperpigmentation and any other skin defects. PEARL (ul. E. Plater 49, InterContinental Hotel, pearlspa.pl) Located on the 43rd floor of the InterConti, treatments include the ‘Super Gentleman’ (zł. 770 for 3hrs: ‘fruit ecstasy massage’, manicure, ‘men’s cut’), and the ‘Energy’ package (zł. 566, 3hrs 20 mins: mani/pedi, facial and ‘men’s cut’. SPEARSIDE (ul. Grzybowski 63, spearside.pl) A male spa / salon offering massage, manicure, scrubs, physiotherapy and a range of treatments to improve your ‘quality of life’. More modern-looking than the rest, hair and grooming solutions are provided by Maciej, a barber of exceptional talent.

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Centrum Golf ul. Burakowska 15, centrumgolf.pl Fulfill the dream of playing at Pebble Beach or Torrey Pines by booking a tee-time on one of Centrum Golf’s HD golf simulators. The realism is incredible. Added benefits include instant analysis and data to improve your game. First Warsaw Golf & Country Club ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf. com Found 25 kiometers from Warsaw, this 20,000 sq/m complex features a par 72, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, luxurious club house and a stunning environment replete with gliding swans and bouncing bunnies! The final hole, set on an island, attracts golfers from across Poland and beyond. Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19, www.golfparkspoland.pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. Among other features are a chipping area, sand bunker, putting green, pitch and putt course and mini-golf. Sobienie Królewskie Golf & Country Club ul. Sobienie Szlacheckie 6 (Sobienie Jeziory),

listings / health & beauty sobieniekrolewskie.pl Set around a 19th century manor house / hotel, the Sobienie golf course was designed by the British Ford Golf Course Design Group and touts 18 holes spread across a highly scenic course approximately 40 kilometers from central Warsaw. Tennis, spa and horse riding facilities also available.

gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars. Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning. Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct. Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well. McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl

Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced. EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced. Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul. Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment. English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely. Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of

Enjoy a clearer weekend with Domestina!

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728,

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listings / health & beauty membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district. Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides. Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www.wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.

spas & salons

0 Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products. Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives. The Hermit Barber Shop pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience. La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive

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Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

ouch!

Sante ul. Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. As you stare at the mantra above the mind lets go and you feel almost as if your body is moving. Amazing.

NEW Spas & Salons

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch! ul. Belwederska 32, 22 240 87 67; ul. Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 12, ouch.pl Experts in waxing, Ouch! Aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. High quality waxes, including fast and accurate epilation treatments whose effects last up to four weeks. Wax treatments for the whole body.

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 62 90; Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 10; ul. Mokotowska 56, tel. 22 298 10 10, pardonmyfrench.pl Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! Free wifi and coffee, as well as the possibility of hosting baby showers and bachelorette parties. Open from 9-8 during the week and 9-5 on Sat (with the Mokotowska branch also welcoming visitors on Sunday from 10-4). The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. Rostowski Barber Shop ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles. Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments. You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou. eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

sport BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly. Frogs & Co. warsawfrogs.com While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side. Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl So named due to its previous incarnation as a place where aeroplanes sleep, Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress.

in the city

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, euromove.pl

Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, agsmovers.com

Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, corstjens.com

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 duxconsulting.com.pl

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, expressrelocations.com

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, euromove.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw. intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), between-us.eu Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, airporthotel.com.pl

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RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, expressrelocations.com

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, interdean.com

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.).

services Domestina domestina.pl New to Warsaw, Domestina offer four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142. Offering full premium service, they’ll make your bed to match the standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till your flat is spotless! Order and pay online via their English-language website.

listings / in the city storage

museums

Wiecej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, wiecejmiejsca.pl A new storage service that will even go so far as to pick up your items for you and transporting them to their guarded warehouse. They’ll also the supply the storage bins which typically fit 90 books, 100 t-shirts, 25 jumpers. Larger items like bikes, suitcases can also be left with them.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

polish for foreigners Klub Dialogu ul. Ordynacka 13/5, tel. 664 788 004, klubdialogu.pl Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland offer a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu.

community InterNations internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street. Museum Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl Ongoing: Zofia Rydet. Record 1978-1990. Rydet’s ‘Sociological Record’ comprises around

20,000 photographs from more than one hundred villages and towns located mainly in the Polish regions of Podhale, Upper Silesia and Suwałki area. Ongoing: Julius Koller. “?” One of the most important Slovak artists of his generation. The exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw presents a new appraisal of this iconic figure of postwar European art. National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented. The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. Don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Ongoing till Jan 10: Just After the War. This exhibition is an attempt to answer the question as to how the complicated social moods and political tensions in post-war Poland.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way. Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites. A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one. Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

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AT E L I E R

LOOKING BACK

The Mists of Time

Repellent at first glance, those who stuck it out in nineties Warsaw soon found themselves being seduced by the city… BY STUART DOWELL

t was a bitterly cold February evening in 1996. We had crawled through the snow-caked city for the last half hour when the property agent finally said: “Do not worry, Warsaw is friendly city”. My heart sank when I looked up at the depressing gray edifice towering above us. The busty, heavily made-up landlady presented the modest accommodation with a sweep of her arm, then shoved her plump daughter in front of me. “This Agnes, maybe you teach her English,” she thundered. They say that Warsaw is a city that doesn’t reveal its charms easily. In the 1990s they were kept under lock and key. I headed

112 Warsaw Insider | MAY 2016

out into the night on a recommendation to visit the spit-and-sawdust Irish pub on Grzybowska. After my eyes adjusted to the smoke, an expat drinking hole emerged where boozed up British consultants and diplomats shared good craic with their cousins from across the Irish Sea, all to a soundtrack of the proprietor’s nonstop cursing. My first months in the city were spent trying to stay warm and not getting ripped off by receiving old ten and twenty zloty notes in my change, which were basically worthless. I fed myself from the plastic Vietnamese food kiosks that littered Plac Konstytucji. The phrase ‘wild capitalism’ was invented for the area around the Palace of Culture, where anything could be bought as long as price was your criteria and not quality. Gangsters ruled the streets and murder was commonplace. The killing of the chief of police was a low point. Nothing made sense. Why were shoelaces available on every street? Why did men drink beer on the way to work? Why were the trees full of plastic bags? I found solace in Żywiec, the Old Town and studying the Polish language. I loved walking along Krakowskie Przedmieście, passing the beautiful university gates and popping into the Bolesław Prus bookshop to look at the languages section and dream of reaching intermediate level. As winter moved into spring and spring into summer, the city softened and became more yielding. The filthy slush of late winter was replaced by a level of greenery that surprised me. Warsaw’s women shed their heavy winter coats to reveal their grace and charm. Evenings moved from smelly basement bars to pavement gardens. My efforts to say anything comprehensible in Polish started to pay off and I began to learn how to be a good guest and recipient of the legendary Polish hospitality. “Stuart, we go to make fire and grill sausage, you must come”. These evenings invariably ended with someone pulling out a guitar and grinding out a Shakin’ Stevens number, but I wasn’t going to let that put me off. “Count me in Marek”. “Do not worry. Warsaw is friendly city” Yes, it certainly was.