Warsaw Insider July 2016 #239

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

• Warsaw’s Night Market • North Wisła Walk • Łazienki’s Botanical Secrets • Korczak’s Warsaw • Interview with Chi-Chi Ude

JULY 2016

EST. 1996

239

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

Moving?

JULY 2016 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Fashion & Style Editor Małgosia Krakowska mkrakowska@valkea.com

Toasted alive, that’s what I

was last month. No matter how many times you’ve experienced it before, nothing prepares you for the first waves of heat that slam into the city: pavements sizzle, buildings sweat. When I first moved to Warsaw, there was nothing in the small print that said I’d be squelching into work and fighting for air. Summer here goes beyond uncomfortable; at times it feels lethal. But there is respite, and this issue we’ve found it: first, on the banks of the river where Bulwary Karskiego is reveling in its role as Warsaw’s daytime retreat. We’ve also sought shade in the largely unsung Botanical Garden, got hot under the collar finding your best BBQ solutions, and found something cooler at the new Night Market. As ever, hope you enjoy it and see you next month…

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Senior Key Account Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

INFRONT

Opener 9 News 10 Politics12 Barbeque 14 Jewish Theater 16 Artist Profile 18

FEATURES

North Wisła Walk 22 Night Market 24 Korczak’s Warsaw 28 Botanical Garden 30

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

LISTINGS

Neighborhood 45 Restaurants 48 Cafes & Wine Bars 77 Nightlife 82 Shopping 89 Family 97 Health & Beauty 102 In the City 105

REVIEWS

Monsieur Leon 35 Enoteka 36 Pępek Sztuki 37 Urban Burritos 39 Mokotowska 69 40

PARTNER NEWS

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 42

INBACK

Map 110 Looking Back 112

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2016 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover The beach has breached the city! Launched in June the city center now has a beach to call its own… see p. 9.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69

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this month...

CONCERT

FESTIVAL

Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-fringed gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract crowds of hundreds.

Jul 7-10 @ Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25 .Performers this year include Robin Eubanks, the Steve Lehman Octet, Michel Benita and Marc Ribot & the Young Philadelphians.

Chopin in the Park

Warsaw Summer Jazz Days

FESTIVAL

Quiet Zone Music Festival

Jazz in the Old Town Every Sat, 20:00 @ Pl. Zamkowy Attracting audiences of up to 4,000 people, artists booked for July include the Birelli Lagrene Gypsy Trio, the David Helbock Trio and Ulf Wakenius. For further info, see: jazznastarowce.pl Free admission

Filmowa Stolica

Known for “swirling guitars, heavy brass and sweet harmony vocals,” Les Mangelepa are considered a central element of the East African sound.

Every Sat & Sun @ Łazienki Park This festival returns for a fourth year running with a series of weekend concerts covering a varied range of genres: jazz, classical and ‘traditional’. Sunday July 2nd, marks the inauguration with performances of Polish music. The following weeks sees the focus falls on Germany, France and Spain. For more info, check: strefaciszyfestival.pl

FILM

Editor’s Pick Orchestre Les Mangelepa

For details, see: warsawsummerjazzdays.pl

Throughout Jul @ various locations A series of open air film screenings in scenic locations across the capital: among them Royal Wilanów, the Copernicus Science Center, Pole Mokotowskie and… Metro Słodowiec. The repertoire is as diverse as the locations – this year films include Grand Budapest Hotel, Bridge of Spies and The Big Blue. For more info, check: facebook.com/ filmowastolica

FESTIVAL

Summer Gardens Festival July 15 to Aug 9 @ Royal Castle, Pl. Zamkowy Film screenings, concerts and operatic performances will be held pretty much every day inside the courtyard of the Royal Castle. The inaugural concert takes place on July 15th at 7 p.m., with the festival concluding next month. For details, see: ogrodymuzyczne.pl

VISIT ŻELAZOWA WOLA – CHOPIN’S BIRTHPLACE

7 July, Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16

Warsaw

Żelazowa Wola

TOURS START AT 10:30 AM. BOOK ONLINE or CALL +48 533 49 39 40 ChopinPASS – a package including admission to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw and the Fryderyk Chopin Birthplace in Żelazowa Wola, as well as round trip transportation via comfortable minibus. More info at: www.ChopinPASS.com

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

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ICK

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town FOOD

Moo Money, Moo Problems!

NeSpoon street-art installation in front of Warsaw Beach. CITY

While few eateries have done more to transform Warsaw’s eating habits, vegan chain Krowarzywa find themselves up against a ferocious public backlash after news broke that their staff had downed tools to strike against their working conditions. Furious at the perceived double standards of a chain that has made so much of their ethical philosophy, supporters have joined staff to picket their locations. Now Krowarzywa face a massive battle to save not just their reputation, but possibly their business.

Life’s A Beach Right in time for Warsaw’s annual battle with heat stroke, a manmade beach at the foot of the Palace of Culture was opened for business on June 10th. Covering a depth of between 25 and 40 centimeters, over 1,000 tons of sand was used to create a unique recreation zone comprising of a 33x17 meter football pitch, two badminton courts, a volleyball area and an ‘urban beach chillout zone’. “We wanted to offer people in the center a chance to relax on the beach,” said Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz, “and I think it’s going to prove to be a great place to stop-off and get away from the daily rush.” The grand opening was attended by Mélody Donchet, a freestyle footballer with several world titles under her belt. With bleacher seating for over 200 people, it’s hoped that the numerous semi-pro sports events scheduled for summer will do their bit to keep business brisk. “Consider this another example of ‘returning’ the Palace of Culture back to the people,” commented City Hall’s Agnieszka Kłąb. “We’ve held cultural events here before, but now we’re offering something even more diverse.” Slated to operate until mid-September, admission is free and the area open from 10:30 a.m. until 9:30 p.m.

www.warsawinsider.pl

news

WEATHER

HISTORY

Summer storms ripped across Poland on June 17th, causing three deaths and a trail of devastation that left over 400,000 people without electricity. In all, over 48,000 firefighters were mobilized to deal with the ensuing chaos. The fiercest weather smashed straight into Warsaw, yet despite wind speeds reaching 110 km/hr, no serious injuries were reported in the capital.

A notorious Warsaw prison is set to close and its buildings repurposed to serve as the seat of a museum dedicated to remembering the memory of political dissidents imprisoned under communism. The jail, found on ul. Rakowiecka, will see extensive archaeological work carried out to excavate rumored execution sites and explore the mysterious tunnels that run underneath. “Former guards have told us about mass graves and human remains,” said a spokesman, “and we’ll also be checking the cellars and passageways found below ground – we know they’re there, but we don’t know what’s in them.” The museum, titled Muzeum Żołnierzy Wyklętych i Więźniów Politycznych PRL, is scheduled to open on March 1st, 2019.

Weather The Storm

Prison Break

TRANSPORTATION

On The Buses A random inspection of city

buses backfired on the local transport authority after it was revealed that of the 28 vehicles that were stopped, the majority had to be immediately withdrawn from service. Principal problems are believed to have involved leaking fluids and deficient tires. While ZTM moved fast to reassure the public that their buses didn’t pose a risk to the public, Andrzej Adamczyk, the Minister for Infrastructure and Construction, blasted the results as being both ‘appalling’ and ‘alarming’.

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT, ALEX WEBBER, KEVIN DEMARIA, SHUTTERSTOCK

inFront

STOP READING ABOUT YOUR DREAM CAR...

START DRIVING IT

What would you pay to drive an Audi R8 V10 through the streets of Warsaw? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more affordable than you think...

www.rideme.pl facebook.com/ridemepl +48 501 139 539

inFront

politics • Barack Obama knows how to work the Polish public. Recalling the kielbasa and pierogi of Chicago, the US President told a rapturous crowd gathered at Pl. Zamkowy that, “being here with you, it feels like home.” But his 2014 visit will best be remembered after footage surfaced of Obama working out in the Marriott’s gym. Despite the furore in the press, a spokesman insisted that the video – believed to have been shot by a hotel guest – didn’t represent a breach of security. • Having asked the ambassador where she could see the free market at work, Maggie Thatcher was directed to Hala Mirowska. Resplendent in a full-length fur, the Prime Minister walked through the crowds while the ambassador trailed behind her handing out banknotes for ‘jars of pickles broken in the fray’. Her 1988 visit was the first time a British Prime Minister had visited Poland on official business. Five years later she returned once more, this time cutting the ribbon to mark the official reopening of the Bristol Hotel.

Warsaw will go into lockdown on July 8 when it hosts the latest edition of the NATO summit. We take a look back at some particularly memorable visits from the planet’s leading men and women.

• Fidel Castro made his one and only visit to Warsaw in 1972, with most newspapers at the time happy to focus on his visit to school No. 92 in Żoliborz. “The boys and girls,” stated one report, “gave their Cuban guests an enthusiastic welcome. They handed Fidel bunches of flowers and tied a golden-red scarf of the Czwartaki Pathfinder group around his neck.” The press were less inclined to write about his insatiable appetite for Polish women. “He had a huge demand for intimate contact with ladies,” recalls one source, “and often a few at a time.” In between all the shagging, the randy revolutionary did find time to visit the Krokodyl restaurant in the Old Town Square. Months later, staff were surprised to find a special delivery from Cuba: a stuffed croc courtesy of Castro.

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

• In 1972 Richard Nixon became the first US President to visit Poland, some five years after he had been denied a visa as a private citizen. While his Presidential visit was a seismic event, it paled in comparison to his 1959 trip as Vice President. That time over 100,000 Poles lined the streets as his motorcade snaked its way from Okęcie Airport to his temporary residence at Wilanów Palace. Such was the hysteria, his car had to make numerous stops to remove garlands that had stacked up on the windscreen. In 1993 Nixon once again stopped in on Warsaw and was visibly stunned by the transformation that had occurred. “My God,” he exclaimed, “Warsaw has become a different world – it’s come alive.”

PHOTOGRAPH PAP

Leading Lights

• West German Chancellor Willy Brandt visited Warsaw in 1970 to promote his new Ostpolitik. Having first paid tribute to the fallen at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, he then visited the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes where he spontaneously sank to his knees in humble contemplation. It was an act that laid the foundations for German-Jewish reconciliation and remains one of the most iconic images in Warsaw’s modern history.

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine. The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world. Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+. ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

The restaurant and wine store Merliniego 5, located vis-à- vis the main entrance to the Warszawianka Aqua Park, is the ideal place for those who love good food and fantastic wines. Merliniego 5 specialises in seafood dishes and steaks made of American Black Angus (prime beef USDA certified), especially selected from the New York-based OTTOMANELLI & SONS butchery. The restaurant also serves steaks made of the Aberdeen Angus and top quality Japanese beef from Tajima cattle, “Kobe style” (grade 5A/BMS 9+). Further, menu offers seasonal and traditional Polish cuisine dishes. At the end of 2011, the readers of Gazeta Stołeczna granted us the prestigious title of Knajpa Roku 2011 (Eating Establishment of the Year 2011). Since 2013 we have also been listed in the Michelin Guide. ul. Merliniego 5, tel. (+48 22) 646 08 10 / (+48 22) 646 08 49, www.merliniego5.pl

inFront

barbeque MEAT MERCHANTS Bavette (Burakowska 16)

High quality meat and dairy products and a client list that includes many of Warsaw’s top restaurants. Organic produce is the forte here.

Befsztyk (Puławska 176/178, befsztyk.pl)

Steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more.

Butchery & Wine Shop (Klimczaka 5/88) A collaboration between two legends: ‘celebrity butcher’ Grzegorz Kwapniewski and Daniel Pawełek of the downtown Butchery & Wine restaurant. Quality assured.

The Crazy Butcher (Olkuska 12)

Proprietor Pan Grzegorz is something of a culinary star, and lauded by foodies as the city’s top butcher.

Czerwona Krowa (Rzeczypospolitej 18)

A beautifully appointed butchery run by passionate owners. Special requests are welcomed: “anything is possible,” says boss Mariusz Hańczewski, “we enjoy the challenge.”

The Heat Is On

Full of charred, smoky, meaty, manly goodness, no true summer is complete without a beery weekend barbeque. Those of us cooped up in apartment blocks might be surprised to find that there is no outright ban on balcony BBQs, however, each building will have its own set of rules so do check with the building administrator – otherwise, don’t be surprised to be paying a hefty fine for your evening of fire and smoke. Likewise, if you choose to take your BBQ set down the local park then bear in mind penalties of up to zł. 500 are dished out for sparking up in places where they’re forbidden. For the record, places that do sanction barbecues include Park Skaryszewski, Pole Mokotowskie, plaza Żoliborz, Park Górczewska, Kępa Potocka, plaża Stadion and Las Kabacki (designated areas only). Failure to leave the area in the same condition as you found it will also result in a zł. 500 forfeit.

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

Dziki Trop (Gagarina 31, dzikitrop.pl)

Game is the specialty, with wild boar and venison products being the best sellers. Aside from that, find the usual butcher’s offer alongside regional jams, conserves and cold cuts.

Steak Club (steakclub.pl)

Highly acclaimed online service provided by a couple of ex-pats who really know their game. Top class meat for all BBQ occasions!

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Benihana Restaurant – Japanese cuisine, teppan grill and sushi ul. Twarda 4 (Cosmopolitan Tower), www.benihanapoland.com, reservations: tel. 22 370 2620, restauracja@benihanapoland.com

inFront

theater

The Final Curtain Call?

Despite its history and heritage, Warsaw’s Jewish theater finds itself battling for its future whilst the vultures circle overhead…

property claiming that the theater was unsafe and in a “catastrophic condition”. Describing the situation as the gravest the theater has ever faced, Tencer has pledged to fight back: “the law is on our side,” says the director, “we are the heirs of those who before the war walked here on the square, who played in Yiddish. Here are the spirits of our ancestors.” Refusing to be cowed by the perceived bully boy tactics of Ghelamco, the theater set about raising public awareness of their plight by staging open air performances of Fiddler on the Roof amid the greenery of Pl. Grzybowski. Attracting an audience of several hundred, the plan was deemed a success with both local and international media picking up the story. “We’ve received incredible support from all around the world,” says Tencer, “and we owe our fight to those who were here before us, who walked around Pl. Grzybowski, who lived, loved and were later murdered here during the Holocaust. On top of that, we wanted to show that theater isn’t about walls and buildings, rather it’s about people – we are the theater. Us and our viewers.” To keep up to date with the theater’s ongoing battle, check: teatr-zydowski.art.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

ocked out of the building that has served as their home since 1970, Warsaw’s Teatr Żydowski is facing the biggest crisis of its existence as it fights to stay afloat. Formed in 1950, the theater has been hailed as one of the few remaining Yiddish theaters in Europe, and its struggle for survival cited as a damning indictment on the city’s mindless real estate gold rush. Sold last year by the Socio-cultural Association of Jews in Poland (TKSŻ), its new owners, property giants Ghelamco, have announced plans to replace the current building with a 30-storey skyscraper. Yet while the future development of the plot has never been in doubt, the Jewish community has been left outraged by Ghelamco’s decision to rehouse the theater elsewhere – this despite initial promises that the new project would specifically save space for a theater. The sense of betrayal has been felt keenly by all those involved with it: “the building was built to house a Jewish theater,” says Golda Tencer, its director, “so that Polish Jews could cultivate and develop their culture. Furthermore, a notarial deed states that a Jewish theater should always occupy the site.” The crisis enveloping Teatr Żydowski came to a head on June 9th when Ghelamco sealed the entrance to the

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

inFront

art

A Fine Art

The surreal world of Tytus Brzozowski reimagines Warsaw as a dreamlike city suspended in a strange reality. This issue we speak to the artist to learn more about his work…

WI: Your style is very distinct, people describe your work as surreal and magical. How would you explain your style? TB: I was very lucky to have found a style that is recognizable and strongly associated with me; my paintings can’t be confused for someone else’s work. Partly, that’s down to technique: watercolor isn’t too common and the way I use it – with lots of layers – is quite rare. And, of course, another thing is the subject of my work: a dreamlike Warsaw full of unexpected elements, different stories and events. Your work often contains weird little details such as teapots, balloons, dice, etc. Do they signify anything, or do you prefer to keep their meaning a mystery? I love when people search for their own interpretations: it’s always so cool and occasionally very surprising. I think that art should attract attention, be fun for people and make them think. It makes me really happy when people spend

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

From top: Nowogrodzka: “built in 1914 in the early French Classicist style, this building is the pride of Nowogrodzka. This area is of particular value as a preserved fragment of the original urban downtown of Warsaw”. The Bridge: “part of the dense urban fabric of Northern Downtown with a panorama of skyscrapers. One can also find a tram viaduct inspired by one of the works submitted for an architectural competition focusing on Poniatowski Bridge.”

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art

a little more time looking at my pictures, searching for those little elements and stories. These are usually things that are unexpected and I think they fit well with the atmosphere of Warsaw: a bit chaotic and incomprehensible. What do you look for when choosing a part of Warsaw to paint? I really enjoy dense cities which is why I like 19th century urban fabric so much. Nowadays, Warsaw has lost much of its dense character of old so I really try to include it in my paintings. I like narrow streets, high, decorative buildings full of attractive details and elegant storefronts. The pre-war remnants of downtown Warsaw fascinate me, and I also include buildings from that period that didn’t survive WWII. You obviously paint other towns and cities as well – as a subject for your art, how does Warsaw compare? Warsaw is a very special place with its own unique character, advantages and problems; it’s very hard to compare it to any other city as the history that shaped Warsaw is so extraordinary. It’s a place that seems to learn and change very fast, and I think it’s become a very interesting and intriguing city. Are there any similarities between the ‘real Warsaw’ and the ‘Warsaw of your paintings’? My paintings are based on ‘real Warsaw’. My task is to search for the mood, character and historical spirit of the city. Of course, there are differences as I try to overlook the city’s deficiencies. For example, instead of a wide road cutting through the city center I’d paint a pedestrian route full of trees. How would you describe your emotional connection to this city? For me it’s the most important place in the world: I’ve spent years studying Warsaw and trying to capture its spirit. On one hand, I admire Warsaw’s and respect the historical values of the city. On the other hand, I dream so much about how it can change and develop.

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

From top: Plac Zbawiciela: “one of the squares on the WarsawStanisławowska axis. I find it a place with a unique atmosphere that’s full of magic.”; Al. Jerozolimskie: “One of the most spectacular frontages in Warsaw. Instead of an unfriendly multi-lane highway down below, the work presents a green park.”

WALK NORTH WISŁA

Costing approximately zł. 160 million, the Bulwary Karskiego development has transformed a northern stretch of the Wisła since launching at the tail end of last summer. Although delivered well behind schedule, it’s proved well worth the wait.

Loch Ness? So what’s Nessie doing peering from the vegetation? Actually, that’s Ślizg, a mysterious eel-like creature added in 2015 by artist Maurycy Gomulicki. “Eerie yet sensual,” says the artist, “the dynamics of Ślizg are set to the rhythm of the water flowing north… I hope Ślizg will be scaring and seducing pedestrians long after my soul is roaming the Elysian Fields.”

Nice to See You!

First lit in front of a crowd of 100,000 people on June 21, 2014, the neon sign attached to Most Gdański won a competition to ‘find a new neon for Warsaw’. Not without controversy (the original winner was disqualified for ‘buying votes’), the contest was organized by Praga’s Neon Muzeum, with the eventual winner (artist Mariusz Lewczyk) earning praise for his positive message.

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

In-spire-ational

Completed in 1959, the two-level Most Gdański is looked upon by critics as one of the unsung engineering triumphs of Warsaw. Largely, that’s thanks to an entrancing spiral staircase that’s become a favored photographic backdrop for ‘Just Married’ couples returning from church.

Taaaaaxi!

Pootle across to the other side of the Wisła by bouncing across the gangplank and boarding a vessel called the Wilga. Running until September, this ‘water tram’ is one of many that criss-cross the river in summer. Find yourself dispatched 600 meters from the zoo.

What An Eyeful

Scale to the top of the observation terrace for grandstand views of the Wisła. The shallow staircase makes it an easy ascent that even those who usually wobble with vertigo are able to manage. Photographers hoping to capture the city’s scarlet sunsets flock here come twilight.

World In Motion

Having already traveled to 17 cities across the world, the Cool Globes exhibit is, say the organizers, ‘public art with a purpose’. On show until September, find 16 colorful globes lining the river bank, each with their own individual environmental message.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

Northern Highlights

Opposite page: the surreal spirals of Most Gdański; this page, clockwise from top: the mysterious, slippery Ślizg; faceless masses converge on Bulwary Karskiego; the Cool Globes exhibit; the award-winning, ‘Nice to See You’ neon; the viewing deck; Cool Globe by local artist Marek Sulek.

www.warsawinsider.pl

MARKET NIGHT

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

The Filling

Station

An abandoned train station proves to be the surprising location for Warsaw’s edgiest food market… BY ALEX WEBBER PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

www.warsawinsider.pl

MARKET NIGHT

ot long back Warsaw’s train stations weren’t for the fainthearted. Serving as an assembly point for madmen, muggers and propositioning perverts, visiting them at night wasn’t so much an adrenaline rush as it was a blood sport. Survival of the fittest. And while you still wouldn’t want to bed down in Centralna, the changes it’s seen have been meteoric. Even Wschodnia has been humanized to the point that, yes, some mistake it for a train station rather than the purgatory it is. Warszawa Główna hasn’t been so lucky when it comes to state-sponsored surgery. Awaiting investment – due from the private sector in the next couple of years – it’s been left to die and decompose. A far cry from the post-war years, when Główna served as Warsaw’s principal transit hub until the completion of Centralna in 1975, today it appears as little more than a disintegrating collection of industrial buildings. Yet despite looking like it could serve as the film set for a remake of Stalingrad, Główna has a new role for summer: that of a trendy night market operating at weekends. Set on and around a disused train platform, the approach takes visitors past a backdrop of garages and warehouses concealed by graffiti. Treading across cracks and potholes and permanently oily puddles, it’s a route that eventually opens out to a blaze of buzz and color. Assembling dozens of independent traders, the organizers have excelled themselves in pooling a diverse assortment of merchants and sticking them under one roof – actually, not so much a roof as a series of rotting corrugated slats that hang above the platform. For all that, the untamed, overgrown nature of the venue lends a highly individualistic slant that works seamlessly with the offer. With the carcasses of decommissioned steam engines in plain view, it feels edgy and urban – were this Berlin, the international travel press would be singing about it from the rooftops.

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

Treading across cracks and potholes and permanently oily puddles, it’s a route that eventually opens out to a blaze of buzz and color

The place is thronged: guys with waxed whiskers queue for new wave beer while uber cool girls cast Jessica Rabbit eyes at a hip hop DJ. Infants chase each other around battered benches, while their parents browse stalls selling oversized bags and eccentric socks. One tent offers Indian massage, another tattoos. Spellbound, we watch a gloriously inked girl acquire new designs. Mostly though, it’s a place that’s about food. To meet that end, the recruitment drive has led to a number of big names hawking their fare: although the line-up seemingly alters each weekend, past representatives have included India Express, MOD Donuts and Falafel Bejrut. “Strange, isn’t it,” remarks the photographer, “it looks like a bombsite, but it’s the only station in Poland you want to hang around in.” Caught in conversation with strangers, with enticing kitchen smells drifting around the platform, I’m inclined to agree. Nocny Market Where: ul. Towarowa 3 When: Fri-Sat 17:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00

www.warsawinsider.pl

HISTORY BIKE TOUR

Korczak’s Warsaw

A story of hope, heroism and, ultimately, tragedy, the Insider follows the trail of esteemed pedagogue Dr. Janusz Korczak.

first learned the story of Janusz Korczak during a performance by a visiting youth theatre from Plymouth at the Jewish theatre on Plac Grzybowski. I was shocked by these English boys convincing performances of swaggering Nazi officers and moved by Korczak’s life in Warsaw and the tragic march with his children to Umschlagplatz and onward to their deaths at Treblinka. Doctor Korczak, who became one of Warsaw’s most distinguished citizens through his work as a paediatrician, educator, children’s writer and broadcaster, was associated with the city his whole life. On a recent bicycle tour of Korczak’s Warsaw organised by the Jewish Historical Institute, I had the chance to learn more about the life and death of the ‘King of Children’.

BIELAŃSKA 18

Korczak’s early years were spent in the Old Town, where our tour starts. Born into a Jewish family as Henryk Goldszmit on 22 July in either 1878 or 1879, his father was an eminent lawyer and the family lived comfortably, first at Bielańska 18 (not existing today), and later on Krakowskie

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

Przedmiście, Miodowa and Plac Krasińskich. Korczak’s father suffered from a mental disorder (possibly brought on by syphilis) and the family’s fortunes plunged. He moved to ul. Leszno (now Al. Solidarności) with his mother, who started to take in lodgers and the young Korczak gave private classes.

ŚLISKA 51

After qualifying as a doctor in 1905, Korczak started work at the Bersohn and Bauman Jewish Children’s Hospital near today’s Rondo ONZ at Śliska 51, which stands today and still operates as a hospital. It was a formative time for the young doctor. He lived at the hospital and worked tirelessly for the poor and needy. Trips to Berlin and Paris deepened his medical knowledge, and on a trip to London in 1911 to visit children’s homes he came to the decision not to start his own family but instead to devote his entire life to his work for children.

JAKTOROWSKA 6

Our journey takes us out to Wola now. In 1912, Korczak

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE STUART DOWELL

BY STUART DOWELL

became the director of Dom Sierot, an orphanage that he designed himself for Jewish children. Today, the building still operates as a children’s home and a bust of Korczak stands in the grounds in front of the building. Korczak developed the Declaration of Children’s Rights long before the idea was conceived by the United Nations. The home operated as a kind of mini-republic of children. It had its own parliament, court and newspaper, all operated by children. He believed in the emancipation of children and that their rights should be respected. This way of thinking about children was revolutionary. Mały Przegląd was the first newspaper published for and by children. It was a forum for topics of interest to children, a crucible for their talents and a method of assimilation, especially for those that had come to the orphanage from orthodox backgrounds. Through his work in these years, Korczak was an unparalleled innovator and one of the father’s of modern childcare.

proudly at the front of the column, holding a small boy in his arms and singing songs. Others describe the group as looking exhausted, sick, hungry and tormented by their German escort. Korczak was given the chance to save himself by escaping the ghetto. He refused. It’s uncertain whether he knew he was leading his children to a death camp. People at the time talked of “resettlement in the east”. Had he known the truth, I believe his resolve to stay with his children to their final moments in a gas chamber or leaning over a ditch would have been even stronger. The Old Doctor is remembered for his tragic death, yet the example he set through his life and work make him one of Warsaw’s most distinguished sons.

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From the start of the German occupation, Korczak was at the orphanage day and night. His overriding objective was to maintain the children’s daily routine amid the gathering storm clouds. He managed to take the children for a summer camp to Wawer in summer 1940, but in autumn that year he was forced to move them to a school building on Chłodna (not existing today) within the ghetto boundaries. With failing health, Korczak’s days were spent wandering the ghetto bargaining for food for around 200 hungry mouths. He was arrested for a short time by the German police for not wearing an armband marked with the Star of David and spent several months in Pawiak Prison.

ŚLISKA 9

In October 1941, the orphanage was forced to move, again to Śliska but to a part of the street that has completely disappeared and is now covered by Park Świętokrzyski to the north of the Palace of Culture. An impressive and moving statue of Korczak embracing his children protectively stands in the park and is a highlight of the tour. In 1942, Korczak began to write his Ghetto Diary, a scrupulously observed testimony of the barbarous conditions inside the ghetto. In it, he captured the unreality of the struggle for survival in the ghetto. A shopkeeper’s rebuttal of a customer’s complaint is a telling example: “My good woman, these are not goods, and this is not a store, you are not a customer, nor I a vendor. I don’t sell to you, nor do you pay me, because these scraps of paper are not money. You don’t lose, and I don’t profit. Who would bother to cheat nowadays, for what? Only one’s got to do something. Well, am I not right?”

UMSCHLAGPLATZ

To go from the Korczak statue to the Umschlagplatz memorial on Stawki takes about 10 minutes by bicycle. On August 5, 1942, the date appointed by the Germans for the children’s journey to their place of extermination at Treblinka, it took Korczak and his group of around 200 seven hours in blistering heat. In this final march towards death, Korczak led his charges with each dressed in their best clothes and holding small blue bundles. Some accounts speak of Korczak marching

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CITY EXPLORATION BOTANICAL GARDEN

Back to Nature

Avoid the hordes that head to Łazienki and get horticultural by rooting around the lesser-known Botanical Garden… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

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CITY EXPLORATION BOTANICAL GARDEN

n extraordinary enclave of horticultural treasure, the University of Warsaw’s Botanical Garden is nothing if it is not a surprise: secretive, serene and certainly surreal. It’s small as well, the smallest such garden in the country. The Hanging Gardens of Babylon this is not, yet by the same rule it is also far more than simply the quiet green refuge you may otherwise expect. The city’s first botanical garden was created in 1811, close to the Old Town, but within years it soon became apparent it was too small to fulfill its intended purpose. It was handy, therefore, when Tsar Alexander I gifted a 22.5-hectare wedge of land to the Polish government six years later. Seizing the opportunity to build the botanical garden that a city the size of Warsaw deserved, local authorities entrusted Michał Szubert, a professor at the University, with the task of seeing the project through. Szubert approached this undertaking with zeal, and within six years had amassed a collection of 10,000 plants. Opting to segregate the garden into three distinct sections, one area was dedicated to scientific study, another to train future fruit farmers and the final to serve the public. After seven years of meticulous work, the garden finally made its public debut to widespread fanfare and approval. This success though was to prove brief and fleeting. Weary of Russian rule, in 1830 Polish forces launched an armed rebellion to free themselves from

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

servility. While the history books will forever remember this as The November Insurrection, the bloody struggle lasted for almost a year. This mutinous act infuriated Tsar Nicholas I, and once victory was assured he set about ensuring the Poles would never rise again. Keen to keep his Empire intact and remind the locals just who the boss was, the Tsar’s measures included the construction of the Citadel as well as the closure of the University. To all intents and purposes, Warsaw was to become a garrison town of the Imperial Russian army. With the patronage of the University lost, its embryonic Botanical Garden suffered. But even worse was to follow. Over two thirds of its land was requisitioned by the Russians, and in 1846 Ignacy Hanusz replaced Professor Szubert as the garden’s boss. While it is unknown precisely what Hanusz did, under his erratic hand we do know that the garden soon fell into ruin. His time at the reins wasn’t the only disastrous stewardship the garden would endure. From 1901 until 1916 it came under the supervision of W. Chmielewski, an apologist for the Russians and a deeply unpopular man. Such was the scale of his mismanagement, stinging articles in the press became a common occurrence. Even the police were moved to investigate the decay and disrepair the garden had fallen into. You can understand why there are some who draw

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CITY EXPLORATION BOTANICAL GARDEN

parallels between the garden’s condition and Warsaw’s general health. While it may be an exaggeration to regard it as the city’s lung, the general metaphor isn’t far off. With its status as part of the University restored in 1916, it flourished during the inter-war years, and its fast track development was indicative of the capital’s own momentum. The outbreak of WWII brought an end to that. Closed off to the public in 1939, further ignominy arrived in 1944. With the Warsaw Uprising defeated, the Nazis set about delivering their parting shot to the city: it’s methodical destruction. As the rest of the city burned, so too did the garden. The steps taken to revive it in peacetime were heroic, but dogged by stringent budgetary controls. At one point, with Poland teetering on a financial precipice, the garden was forced to surrender its scientific status. Now though, visitors will find the place back to its best: although just five hectares in size, looping pathways take day trippers through a thrilling cacophony of color that presents in excess of 6,000 species. Amid them, find historic bits and pieces such as an Astronomical Observatory founded in 1825, a hothouse once used to cultivate figs and pineapples for Poland’s elite, as well as a small brick chapel that was to form part of a giant Temple of Divine Providence (yep, the same temple currently under construction in Wilanów).

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

With the cornerstone laid on the first anniversary of the enactment of the 1791 Constitution of May 3rd, work was abandoned one month later when Russian forces rolled into town, and all that remains is a small chapel that looks more akin to a tandoor oven. However, these are not the only points of interest, and with the garden celebrating its bicentenary, dozens of art installations have been peppered around the grounds: among them, a hooded monk peering from the undergrowth, mysterious heads and a giant wicker basket suspended from a tree – feel free to climb inside and enjoy its tranquil womblike warmth.

NEED TO KNOW

The University of wWarsaw’s Botanic Garden Al. Ujazdowskie 4, ogrod.uw.edu.pl Hours: Garden open 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00 Greenhouses open Weds-Fri 10:00-14:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00 Admission: Garden zł. 8/4, Garden & greenhouses zł. 10/5

LISTINGS

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

RESTAURANTS 48 CAFES & WINE BARS 77 NIGHTLIFE 82 SHOPPING 89 FAMILY 97 HEALTH & BEAUTY 102 IN THE CITY 105

The French Revelation

Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France. No two ways about it, it’s the kind of place every neighborhood should have. Monsieur Leon ul. Sulkiewicza 5 www.warsawinsider.pl

REVIEWS

Rewards aren’t just liquid at Enoteka…

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Wine & Dine

ver since I can remember, New Town has been searching for a wine bar to laud. After years of waiting, that came along in 2009. Enoteka it was called, a restaurant / wine bar with its seat on Długa. Its impact extended beyond the area, and it wasn’t long before it was outmaneuvering well-established rivals. Then, out of the blue, it was forced to close due to circumstances beyond their control. Having bided their time, Enoteka returned to the frontline late last year in new lodgings overlooking Rynek Nowego Miasta. Say what you like about New Town, but most people are happy to profess they prefer it to Old Town. Whereas the latter feels faked for the tourists, its younger neighbor has an atmosphere that’s altogether more ‘genuine’ – people live there, it’s not a district that exists for the benefit of outsiders. Despite that, it manages to retain that specific ambiance of the historic center. How’s all that relevant to Enoteka? Because that’s the

reason their new roost works so well. Rested on the corner of the square, just sitting on their terrace is a pleasant sensation. Moving inside, the L-shaped space feels equally correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. The importance with which Enoteka hold wine cannot be understated. With a portfolio curated by importer Maciej Bombol, the stars of the show are found both on the wine list and their onsite store. Though the core is Italian, others are available, not least wines from upcoming Polish vineyards such as Solaris. “Nearly every time,” says Maciej, “people are surprised by the quality coming from this country.” Rare finds are numerous, so it’s a small shock that the prices remain so moderate. “If you’re an importer,” adds Maciej, “getting a good wine isn’t all that hard – the tricky part is to get that good wine at a good price…”

Without doubt, wine of such caliber demands the right food to match. Enoteka has that. Electing to start with a topinambur soup, we’re rewarded with a rich, smooth course that’s not short on class. Even better is the creamy Agnolloti pasta. Filled with porcini mushrooms and ricotta cheese, and capped with slithers of roasted Parma ham, it’s simple but a standout. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. So as expected, the beef tenderloin is a genuine work of truth: a thick hunk of quality local meat served amid a fusillade of seasonal greens. Deeply satisfying, it feels like an apt reflection of what Enoteka’s all about. (AW) Enoteka

Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

REVIEWS A Mexican Rave The humble burrito is handed a new lease of life…

alf-sunk below street level, entering Urban Burritos during their lunch hour raises a couple of obvious questions: for instance, just how can so many people fit into such a small nook? And what’s with the Americans? Is this, you ask, some unofficial arm of their diplomatic mission? Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. The proximity to the embassy is a happy coincidence, but the real reason Urban Burritos gets so busy is down to more than just convenience. Originating as a ‘mobile food bike’, their success was such that a physical address was the next logical step – which leads us to Piękna 22, namely to a cheerful space splashed in soothing white shades with pops of Mexican color. It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Tailored to take advantage of local produce, the house recipes are simple, straight forward and a paean to nature. Using ‘Fresh Mex’ as their tagline, the point is pushed by a number of catchphrases that express this devotion: ‘Nature… Hell Yeah!’ shouts one slogan adorning the counter; ‘Eat & Feel Good’ declares another. These are not idle boasts. Ringing with lively flavor, Urban Burritos have shaken the sheets when it comes to this cuisine. Notably, they’ve done it the right way by relying on philosophies based around passion and perfection. Urban Burritos

ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

Buy The Book

Nestled inside Ujazdowski Castle, PÄ&#x2122;pek Sztuki laregly devotes itself to important looking art tomes and heavy coffee table statement pieces. But there is also balance to this literary refuge, with titles relating to history, science, culture and lifestyle also represented. You could spend all day browsing, and by the looks of it, many people do. PÄ&#x2122;pek Sztuki ul. JazdĂłw 2

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REVIEWS

Master of Mokotowska

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Mokotowska 69 signals its arrival with a menu of noteâ&#x20AC;¦

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

t’s as if the end of the world has visited Warsaw. Within seconds the skies darken to the color of pitch and the wind starts to whistle. When the rain arrives, it does so in unrelenting solid sheets of water. Thunder roars and tree branches fly past the window. Such is the ferocity of this meteorological interlude we inch away from the glass lest a traffic bollard comes crashing through it. “Someone out there,” announces the photographer gravely, “is going to regret today ever happened.” Our table nods. For all that, we know it won’t be us. And if, by some fluke of fate, we are wiped out by a bolt of lightning, at least we know we died happy. The cause of our high spirits is Mokotowska 69, an address that, until recently, housed the ailing Adler restaurant. Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class: swept in shadow, the new tenant presents itself in a flurry of brickwork and wood. Hushed and intimate, it’s a restaurant for businessmen to connive and couples to court. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister by way of a meat menu that includes the highest grade of beef in the world. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone, and that much is clear right from the beginning. From the start we are treated to a volley of greats: breaded calf brains with a consistency so creamy that for

a moment I forget that I’m actually eating a brain. Steak tartare and filet mignon carpaccio equally impress, though where starters are concerned there’s two outright triumphs: a sophisticated smoked eel on potato and pumpkin blinis, and Mazurian crayfish served in a sauce of rowanberry brandy – deep and joyous, it’s a dish of true greatness. It’s at this point the heavens open, venting their full fury on Warsaw down below. Ensconced from the deluge, we’ve found our own piece of heaven: for mains, our table wrestles over a roasted duck that wins rave reviews. Cooked in a reduction of honey, apple juice and white vinegar, so crackly is the skin we summon the chef to learn how he does it. What scraps remain are bitterly fought over by those seated at our table. Likewise, the scene repeats itself with lamb sourced from the mountains of Biesczady. Declared ‘the perfect rack’, the pink meaty goodness is devoured until all that is left are bones and debris. With the rain still drumming down, we have no choice but to continue this epic feast. Napoleon Cake is shared for dessert and it vanishes within minutes. Crisp and creamy, this multi-layered sweet is hailed the perfect finish and a fitting finale to a memorable lunch. (AW) Mokotowska 69

ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com www.warsawinsider.pl

Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Strawberry Fields Forever

Summer doesn’t just mean sunshine, it means strawberries as well… At Loft the launch of a new seasonal menu uses them to its advantage with three dishes specially built around Poland’s favorite summer fruit: for starters, that means a stunning mixed salad of rucola, strawberries and strips of pork loin. For mains, a grilled chicken breast delicately wrapped in crispy bacon and presented alongside a pinch of gnocchi and a sweet side of strawberries. And for dessert, a cooling semifreddo with a beautiful strawberry mousse. Loft ul. Złota 11

Ringing Changes

Seasonal Cooler

Newly Opened

They’ve tracked trends, traveled around and, most importantly, listened to their fans! The result is a new light, seasonal menu that’s full of surprises. Featuring bread baked on-site, new vege options, and plenty of ingredients from local suppliers, Aioli Inspired by Mini have started the summer with a splash.

Eschewing sweeteners and preservatives, each bottle of SOTIniada uses an infusion of nine grams of green tea leaves and pure mountain water. The result is a nourishing drink packed with antioxidants and general goodness. For more on Soti and the restaurants that stock it, check their website.

With a couple private events already under their belt, Stixx Bar & Grill looks set to officially open at the start of July. Found right beside the Warsaw Spire, we’re promised revolutionary concepts, a dazzling design and a far-reaching menu covering all corners of the globe. Full review next month!

Aioli Inspired by Mini Pl. Konstytucji 5

Soti sotinatural.com

Stixx Bar & Grill Pl. Europejski 4A

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2016

SUMMER AT

Tropical Summer

With beach days beckoning, don’t compromise on color for the glam globetrotter look. Stay sophisticated and relaxed with these summer essentials from Moliera 2. Moliera 2 ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

SHOP THE PIECES:

Clockwise from top left: Victoria Beckham Sunglasses zł. 1,780; Kiini Twopiece bikini zł. 1545; One Teaspoon shorts zł. 580; Alameda Turquesa sandals zł. 1,290; Tory Burch Tote zł. 1,420; Kenzo espadrilles zł. 755.

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Pa N rtn ew er s

The Taste Of Poland!

As we all know, the best gifts are the ones you can eat. International travelers now find themselves spoilt for choice at the airport’s Premium Food Gate…

ositioned inside Chopin Airport, Premium Food Gate’s exceptional delicatessen is filled with carefully selected products designed to showcase the country: more than just food, the choice that’s been laid-out is the pride of Poland! Representing the country’s many regions, stock has been sourced from local producers, family businesses and private enthusiasts – people who have kept alive centuries of tradition handed down the generations. Passionate about food, here’s a store that aims to disclose the richness of this nation’s culinary heritage. With many goods certified for their quality and origin, find jams and preserves, cold meats, local cheeses, regional wines and sweet pastries. Accessible only to outgoing passengers, it’s a place for wonderful last-minute gifts that demonstrate the true taste of Poland! Premium Food Gate

Chopin Airport (between gate 28 & 29), open 4:00-23:00

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

ONE’S TO PICK UP Pretzels

Reliant on recipes based on 600-years of tradition, these handmade pretzels are delivered fresh each day from Kraków.

Kiełbasa Swoja

A delicious sausage seasoned with a specially selected composition of spices and herbs.

Cheese from Roman Kluska

Finessing his recipes for over ten years, Kluska’s unpasteurized cheeses forgo any enhancers and instead fall back on raw sheep’s milk.

M. Pelczar Chocolatier

These luxury handmade chocolates incorporate natural ingredients, fresh sweetmeats, spices and fruit to lend plenty of flavor and aroma.

(10% off in July on certain products when you mention the Warsaw Insider)

Wilanów

neighborhood

PHOTOGRAPH STUART DOWELL

THINGS TO DO With summer under way the number of tourists wandering around Wilanów rises exponentially: primarily thanks to the following…

Fountains

Outside Royal Wilanów since April, but never more appreciated than this summer, find 16 water jets set under the stony gaze of King Jan III Sobieski, his wife, and their two dogs. Feel free to cool down: the Sobieskis approve.

Fan Zone

Attracting sometimes hundreds, Royal Wilanów’s Euro 2016 Fan Zone has been a runaway success. Pull up a deckchair and crack open a beer: as the tournament reaches its conclusion, there’s no better way to watch it.

Row, Row, Row Your Boat

Set behind the palace, find a picturesque lake that recreates the magic of Pride & Prejudice: hire a row boat from by Enrico Marconi’s redbrick pump room, and then paddle around the lake being trailed by the quacking ducks. www.warsawinsider.pl

neighborhood / wilanów

Basico ul. Branickiego 11, basico.pl Airy and spacious the mood is light and modern, the food, meanwhile, isn’t over-complicated. It’s simple, fresh and truthful to Italian standards.

The Beer Store Al. Rzeczypospolitej 14 In an area where bar options are thin on the ground, The Beer Store is a veritable lifeline. Cult international beers and Polish craft ales served to a very grateful audience.

Bierhalle ul. Klimczaka 1, bierhalle.pl The latest

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

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Gorący Pies Al. Rzeczypospolitej 10 Artisan burgers, creative hot dogs and local ingredients: this is street food with an upmarket Wilanów twist – you’ll hear no complaints from us. The house specialty shares the restaurant’s name, and involves a hot dog featuring lamb sausage and onion jam.

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Bel Paese ul. Sarmacka 22 Looking around the tables and you’ll see most customers diving into pizzas: but that overlooks the fact that the pastas in this highly casual neighborhood haunt are both interesting and quite often on-point.

Dunkin’ Donuts ul. Klimczaka 1 After an absence of well over a decade, how Warsaw cheered on learning DD were returning. Smaller than the average store, but do you think anyone cares?

Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, bistecca.pl Opened over four years back, Bistecca is something of a pioneer when it comes to quality beef. Outsiders travel from outside Wilanów’s immediate catchment area to sample meat dishes that include their signature one kilo T-Bone shaped joint: it’s a strip steak on one side and a tenderloin on the other. Chef Paweł Gajownik personally oversees the aging process.

Bay Kebab Al. Rzeczypospolitej 12, baykebab.com Even your dapper Wilanowian enjoys a kebab: teething problems aside (mixed orders and general chaos), Bay is a notch above most inner city gambles.

Deli Paris ul. Kazachska 1, deliparis.pl Pre-empting Warsaw’s surge towards artisan bakeries, Deli Paris have been at it since 2011. Aside from baked goods, the crepes are exceptional.

Bierhalle venture is the shining pearl of this long-established empire. The beer is freshly brewed on-site and served with food befitting of the beer hall aesthetic.

eat & drink

UL. VOGL

neighborhood / wilanów Kabuki ul. Branickiego 10, kabukifusion.pl Astroturf tables and pictures of oriental park life fill this Japanese-themed café; creative fruit cocktails and unfamiliar board games sit well with the vibrant aesthetic. Kuchnia Otwarta ul. Klimczaka 1, kuchniaotwarta.pl A restaurant with serious ambitions to be the best in the area: a beautiful layout that’s modern and open is complemented by a varied menu with something for all ages and tastes.

speaks volumes. Basic interior, simple menu but solidly reliable standards. Vilano ul. Kazachska 1, vilano.pl Find the busy open kitchen serving homemade pasta, Tuscan-style pizza, a respectable array of sea creatures and meat courtesy of Warsaw’s top butcher, Grzegorz Kwapniewski. No wonder

it’s something a local cult. YeYe Mex Food & Music Bar ul. Kazachska 1, yeye.testa.com.pl Mexican food hasn’t imported well to Poland, but chef Jorge Martinez changes that with a simple menu that makes it look easy. Some are calling it the best Mexican in the country and the margaritas are not too shabby either.

Kuźnia Kulturalna ul. S.K. Potockiego 24, kuzniakulturalna. pl With its massive play area (there’s even a beach in the summer!), well-stocked bar, and diverse menu this former blacksmith’s is something of a catch-all solution. It’s position close to the palace draws in as many tourists as it does locals. Milanovo ul. S.K. Potockiego 24, milanovo.pl A relaxed white-clad spot a hop away from all the sights. The menu is pretty vast, though most skip straight to the pizza.

Naturel ul. Klimczaka 1, naturel7.pl Overseen by Marcin Jabłoński, one of the rising stars of Polish gastronomy, the menu is a celebratory observance of natural local produce. Saffron Spices ul. Klimczaka 20, saffronspices.pl Much appreciated by Wilanów’s British population, Saffron Spices is a reliable choice for the standard curries. Nothing complex here, but they do the basics well enough. Sucre ul. Klimczaka 5, sucre.pl Purveyors of Warsaw’s best natural ice cream, Sucre is worth visiting in all temperatures on account of their Parisian-style macarons. Danger: highly addictive. Sushi Zume ul. Klimczaka 5, sushizume.eu Apparently this was the first restaurant to take root in Miasteczko Wilanów. Still going strong, that they’ve outlasted many of their competitors

It's all about

beef!

Try polish dry aged premium beef steak’s! Restauracja Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, 02-972 Warszawa tel. 22 258 12 43, biuro@bistecca.pl, www.bistecca.pl

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED 2015 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2015 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining Senses Casual Dining Bibenda Newcomer MOD Chef Sebastian Wełpa (Ale Wino) Modern Polish (Opasły Tom) Foreign Chef Martin Gimenez-Castro (Salto & Ceviche Bar)

MUNCHIES (Bulwar Grzymały-Siedleckiego) Chalked on a blackboard, find a succinct menu built around local, market fresh ingredients. Cooked up by chefs whose experience includes stints at some of Warsaw’s top eateries (Atelier Amaro, even!), the choice has thus far numbered fresh trout and beef cheeks that have met with rave reviews and widespread approval. Find it on a moored barge set with hammocks, crates and lanterns.

SEXY DUCK (Pl. Konstytucji 3) Italian cuisine gets an artisanal makeover in the Sexy Duck, an eatery that instantly engages with a high impact interior that’s not shy in its use of aged, raw materials. The menu – a simple work that covers one page – brings a twist to this celebrated cuisine, with pizza and pasta dishes incorporating fresh ingredients that bring out the nuances of the food. With their eye on a new generation of diner, equal focus is awarded to fruity new wave drinks rustled up by smart waistcoated gents.

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

african american asian australian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french georgian greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin & mexican middle eastern polish scandinavian seafood specialty shops steak houses thai uzbek whole foods

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listings / restaurants african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

american Amigos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, restauracjaamigos. pl Educated by George Bush’s former private chef, the cooks at Amigos have mastered a comprehensive menu that’s nothing if it isn’t a roll-call of true Texan tastes: steaks, ribs and other dishes befitting of the Dodge City saloon-style surrounds. Neither is the south of the border forgotten, with strong cameo appearances from the chimichanga and fajitas. $$ Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos not to mention Mito’s Beef Ribs and 100% beef dogs. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings: they’re loved by many. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and

a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, jeffs.pl Head to Jeff’s for supersize portions from the ribs and wings class. Servings might be big, but don’t anticipate any further fireworks with regards to the food. $ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, tgifridays.pl/warszawa The steaks are a missand-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

asian Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210,

blissrestaurant.pl Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinesestyle ribs. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) multiple locations, duzamiha.pl A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Onggi (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. $$

ul. Nowy Świat 36 tel. 731 001 002 beefnroll.pl facebook.com/beefnroll.burgers

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listings / restaurants Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, pekinduck.pl Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Sora (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Usually bubbling with South Korean customers, their reassuring presence affirms Sora’s growing reputation as the top Korean restaurant in town. Set in a piece of slightly garish new build, the menu here is

as close to authentic as you’ll find in Poland, and includes a fiery kimchi salad, and an interesting bibimbap: a vegetable mix served in a spicy sauce. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Wi-Taj (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4 Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30. $$

australian

Kalaya (D4) ul. Jasna 26, kalaya.pl Service is natural and instinctive while the design plays on the Australian theme in a way that’s clever but not cliché. It’s a style that’s light, fresh and completely engaging, something that is – whether by accident or design – in synergy with the menu. For starters, the swordfish carpaccio comes alive in an explosion of citrusy bangs, while the leek soup leaves a swoony feeling of lingering luxury. As for mains, that’s where the grill gets a star billing: the emu is a standout. $$

balkan & russian Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. $

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listings / restaurants british British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsomer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Ę Rybę Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl Warsaw’s has done fish and chips before, yet nowhere has managed to capture the unique taste of the British seaside as convincingly as this place. Forget the grey and greasy offerings the city has previously volunteered, here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Doused with malt vinegar, and a couple of dollops of tartar sauce, here’s food that cuddles and comforts those Brits who miss home. $$

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but massive steps have been taken to ensure that the food angle isn’t overlooked. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the

burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll. Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very

www.focaccia.pl tel.: +48 22 829 69 69, ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia

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listings / restaurants good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet. $ Między Bułkami (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Warsaw Hot Dog & Burger (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15 While it seems behind the times to be talking about a trend that curved out a couple of years back, the bottom line is people are still craving burgers. And that’s little wonder when they’re this good. The Firestarter is a game changer and even better with a pile of double-fried chips. $ Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Bez Ości (D5) ul. Hoża 51, bezosci.com Those lamenting the loss of Warsaw’s first artisan sandwich stop – MeatLove – have been given hope by the opening of a new venture across the street. Specializing in fish-based sarnies and baguettes, the choice includes deboned catches fresh from a stint in the smokehouse

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served in bread baked in traditional brick ovens. The cod with horseradish choice is a particular bestseller. Find it occupying a tiny, converted space inside a former vodka distillery. Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3, tel. 505 671 334, ul. Waryńskiego 9, tel. 505 671 334, fabrykafrytek.pl Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Falafel Bejrut ul. Nowolipki 15 & ul. Senatorska 40 It just keeps getting better for Falafel Bejrut. From modest origins as a food cart plying its trade outside Hala Mirowska came a tiny little takeout place on ul. Senatorska. That’s still going strong, only now it’s got a big little sister. Light, bright and buzzing with custom, the new venture has a good scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is Poland’s best falafel. And don’t ever think of leaving without ordering the hummus diablo. $ Justyna’s Secret Recipes (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 138, jsecretrecipes. com We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain. Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread. The delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $ Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – there are times when queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), though not everyone agrees they’re worth the often silly waiting times. $ Mr. Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff). They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $

Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $ Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $

cooking schools Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl Run by two Italians, find a gleaming kitchen inside a vast warehouse space inside Soho Factory. Mediterranean workshops are the primary foundation, though wine tasting and Polish cooking courses are also available. Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work. Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

CMY

listings / restaurants cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl You sometimes suspect Warsaw doesn’t give seafood the respect it deserves. But the city’s shortcomings are atoned for by L’Arc. Choose from the lobsters swimming on Death Row, then settle back for a meal to die for. Likewise, the oysters and mussels never disappoint. $$ Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 44 61, petitappetit.com.pl A bit of French you say? Step in. There’s an atmosphere here that melts regulars and tourists into one. An easy coexistence that reveals a lot about the very soul of the place: café, hangout, bistro. Small choice but good results. $$

georgian Chinkali (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Signposted by a Georgianlanguage shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost,

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Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re always authentic and tasty, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwashcolored tarragon lemonade. $ Klukovka (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, www.klukovka.pl Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming winter mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. That said, it’s never a surprise to find diners ordering up bottles of Georgian vodka before proceeding to share their way through the menu. $

Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628 Vodka shots at the ready! Rusiko finished 2015 voted Gazeta Wyborcza’s Knajpa Roku, a very public endorsement of all they’ve done right. The food is the equivalent of a warm cuddle on a cold day – it makes you feel good in the heart and soul – and when it comes to hospitality they’re in a league of their own. Live music lends the weekends a goodhumoured twist. Note: closed Monday. $$

greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, parosrestauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/ santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly

engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, chmielarnia.waw.pl Find some of the world’s greatest beers (see Nightlife) served in a murky, muggy basement. The Indian food that accompanies it is generally successful without being memorable – the beer snack menu though is great, with big points going to the spicy, chili ribs. Now also boasts a more salubrious location on Marszałkowska 10/16. $ Karma ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, restauracjakarma.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is largely impressive, with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu, though it does lack

listings / restaurants the extra punch you maybe looking for. If there’s a complaint, then it’s thus: a little timid for more robust tastes, a few extra spices in the pot wouldn’t go amiss. $$

impression. While you get the idea it’ll never challenge the more established Indian restaurants in Warsaw, it’s the kind of place you’d be very happy to live next door to. $

Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 & ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub. com or indiaexpress.pl Celebrating their 10th birthday this year, Mandala is well on its way to becoming a Warsaw institution. But rather than resting on their laurels, the management are using this landmark anniversary as an opportunity to rejig the menu and update their offer. Using the freshest ingredients, Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. $

Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani.com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$

Mr. India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia. pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town. $$ Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have expanded from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. Consistency, however, has become a problem. Whilst we rated a recent butter chicken as the best we’ve had for years, another Insider blasts the Madras as being, ‘the worst curry ever cooked!’ Good luck. $$ Om ul. Sienna 86 Indian restaurants are popping up like toast, which isn’t a problem for most ex-pats. Catering to the more budget end of the market, Om’s Nepalese chefs know their way around the kitchen. The chicken tikka masala is satisfying if nothing memorable, but the madras is something else: filled with sharp, punchy tastes that leave a lasting

Original Indian Cuisine

Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. $$ Welcome India ul. Eramza Ciołka 35 The Insider likes breaking good news, and when that news involves an Indian restaurant then so much the better. Found in the darkest depths of Wola, this unlikely find has an ace up its sleeve: a chef nabbed from under the noses of the once excellent Curry House. If you’re unfamiliar with his cooking, then look forward to the death-by-fire vindaloo, and a butter chicken that doesn’t have any rivals. The home delivery service is a godsend for those who don’t fancy journeying outside their neighborhood comfort zone. $

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Such is the success of this venue, there are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport. The huge neo-industrial interior packs out with a young, lively demographic sinking ‘tank’ beer and powerful cocktails over a menu that chiefly encompasses pizza and burgers. $$

club

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listings / restaurants Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season. Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. BEST WAWA 2015 “Chef” A nuż widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520 So snug is A nuż widelec, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house. The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and watering the flowers in the knockout garden. Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$ Artkitchen ul. Domaniewska 34A, artkitchen.pl Buried deep in the office blocks of white collar Mokotów Artkitchen hope to attract more than just the lunch break crowd with a busy jazz program overseen by musician Grzegorz Piotrowski. The modern international menu is composed by Michał Bassa, a man who appears to like foie gras: find it in burgers, ice cream and other combinations. $$

Bastylia (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, bastylia.eu Part champagne bar, part cool creperie, Bastylia has been around 2001, since when they’ve been championed across the city for crepes that would make you swoon. White brickwork, mandarin sofas and champagne bits and piece lend a touch of class, while breakfast is served each day from 8.

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

Bazar Kocha (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl With its weathered brickwork and a long wavy bar occupying a significant chunk of the entrance, you don’t get much more casual than Bibenda. ‘True food’, their menu calls it, before expanding to rattle on about ‘fresh, seasonal ingredients and home-style techniques’. On our visit that involved a potato salad with red onion and parsley: basic stuff, but delicious when mushed together; next, soft duck thigh placed on top of a tangy red cabbage reduction and served with charred parsnips; and dessert, a pink beetroot cake that was gobbled in seconds. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Casual Dining”

Boska Praga ul. Okrzei 23, boskapraga.pl Boska Praga does its best to keep everyone happy – and succeeds! Supremely family friendly, the welcome doesn’t just extend to kids, but also to dogs. Set inside a restored industrial facility, this well-designed leviathan maintains an intimacy, despite its size. As for the menu, that keeps all tastes covered with a varied offer that includes tapas, pizza, burgers and more thoughtful dishes such as ox tongue with pepper sauce. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard

floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$

Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Zgoda 3 & ul. Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ The Cool Cat (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients. Small menu and a fashionable crowd, but an immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. $$

Dekant Wine Bar (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl A definite contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, Dekant have also nailed down an excellent menu that’s brief but brilliant: the filet mignon is the undisputed highlight. $$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant. com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome

listings / restaurants tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. $$ Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green

banquette and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$ Joseph’s Bistro & Wine (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl Spacious and smooth on the eye, it has the feel of a place where good things happen, and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar, not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks

to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, facebook. com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine, and new chef Piotr Ceranowicz already looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$ Kotakota (E3) ul. Bartoszewicza 3 Short of eating in a tunnel, Kotakota is pretty much the darkest

SEAFOOD SIGNATUR E BRUNCH AT SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA Enjoy a gourmand Sunday with your family at Sofitel Warsaw Victoria. We invite you to delight in a rich signature buffet concept, including a selection of seafood, oysters, shrimps, fresh fish, caviar and crabs. Every Sunday we offer a special kids menu and activities for children with our animators. Discover the Best Brunch 2015 awarded with the „Best of Warsaw 2015” by Warsaw Insider every Sunday from 12:30pm to 4:30pm at a price of 165 PLN per perso n.

Bookings: Kitchen Gallery - Sofitel Warsaw Victoria Tel.: 22 657 82 62 Email: kitchen.gallery@sofitel.com

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listings / restaurants place you’ll ever eat in. Filled with donated furniture and peeling plaster walls, this unique restaurant has got people talking thanks to a regularly changing menu that mixes up local ingredients with old recipes and modern techniques. People leave in a state of dumbstruck excitement. $$

inside an inviting, raw brick room Kumpir’s warming aura has as much to do with its food and drink as it does its design. Sip fragrant Turkish coffee while picking through loaded jacket potatoes and desserts made with love. Just steps from the Old Town, its location gives it a further buzz throughout the day.

Kumpir House (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 59 Ensconced

La Brasserie Modern (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria),

tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw. com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, leregina.com A gloriously seductive dining room, Poland’s champion sommelier, and a chef that many recognize as being Michelin potential: put those three together and you have one of the finest experiences to be enjoyed in a Warsaw dining room. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and in October that meant – for this diner at least - tuna with beetroot and yuzu, and a main of beef fillet: electrifyingly good. $$$

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Chef Michal Brys might look like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, but his flair for experimentation is second to none: expect a menu that marries local produce with the latest tricks and techniques. The tasting menu (six courses for zł. 199) is a brilliant insight into the mind of a chef who likes to experiment and push boundaries. With all the hype you expect this place to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but. Again, credit for that goes to Brys and his front-of-house staff. $$$

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that presents such choices as chicken with strawberries. $$

listings / restaurants Lokal 14 (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480 Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka 43, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”. Topping his skills off is a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Getting used to being more than a construction site, the opening of Lokal 14 is positive news for this stretch of Świętokrzyska. $$ Manoush (D4) ul. Jasna 10, manoush.pl It’s rare to see Beef Wellington on a Warsaw menu, and even rarer to find it executed well. But that’s exactly what Manoush manage to do, presenting prime, pink beef wrapped in a flaky, puff pastry. The rest of the international, bistro-style menu is equally fulfilling, and includes a wondrous halibut. There’s no revolution going on at Manoush, but you sense it’s a place that knows exactly what it’s doing, and is doing it well. $$ Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325, The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. You get the idea both the cooking and artisan cocktails need a little fine-tuning, but fundamentally this newbie is looking in the right direction. $$

MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Newcomer” Mokotowska 69 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com If you know of Merliniego 5, then you’ll know it as the source of arguably Warsaw’s top steak. So news that the same team have opened downtown has understandably created a stir. Occupying the rotunda that once housed Adler, this circular space has been given a loving retouch that’s left it dripping with hardwood touches and brickwork finishes. $$ N31 (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying

complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. $$$

Naturel ul. Klimczaka 1, naturel7.pl Find here a beautiful space that’s generous on light, polished surfaces and bursts of color from seasonal flowers. Using ingredients largely sourced from the chef’s family farm, Marcin Jabłoński’s menu is a monthly-changing artwork that, on our visit, includes a deep and creamy raviolo, a full-flavored hanger steak with a feisty mushroom ragout, and desserts that are a different class: you want to see the sea buckthorn tart with meringue and avocado/apple ice cream preserved for eternity. $$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the

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listings / restaurants tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$

Nowa Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 10, nowaprozna.pl Where once Próżna was symbolic of Warsaw’s urban decay, today it’s been rebooted as a swank street of brasseries and bistros. Nowhere captures the zeitgeist with the same élan as Nowa Próżna, an intimate corner unit that feels representative of the change. Dishes to watch for include young rooster in an intense pool of jus and a zander encircled in a forest of greens: powerful stuff that leaves those assembled in a state of joy. $$ The One @ Francuska 3 (H4) ul. Francuska 3, theonefrancuska3. pl Summer in Saska just got better with the opening of The One. Vast in size, the eclectic interiors are complemented by a long, narrow garden that’s set to become a seasonal sensation, while the cooking of Tomasz Łagowski is gaining recognition for its verve and precision. Choose from a menu that involves the likes of cod soup with crab ravioli, and veal tongue with celery puree. $$ Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12,

tel. 501 497 410, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Północ Poludnie (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. The sliders are worth exploration: they don’t just consist of beef, but also salmon, egg and chicken. $$

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Renoma (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 22 692 7239, bistrorenoma.pl Here’s a venue that suits all purposes at all times of day. Most of all, it’s a place that feels positive, a place where heart and mind work seamlessly together: that means breakfast to evening options – many of them gluten-free – including fab lunch deals and 60-day aged steaks. Great for afternoon ‘me time’ or a dinner date with a beautiful stranger, Renoma’s intimate style and soothingly stark interiors work with the personalized approach. $$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

listings / restaurants cream served in the shape of a mushroom. It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef” Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl A spectacular experience from start to finish: begin by walking through a flame-lit tunnel, and then conclude the night with an edible cigar: a grand tobacco flavored pastry infused with whisky and cinnamon. In between our night includes beetroot bread with a teat pipette of apple essence; a beef rib that’s a big blast of smoke and crunch; and a shellfish goulash that’s rich and rough and rolling in flavor. Perfectly paced, expertly portioned and bristling with invention, their newly acquired Michelin star makes bookings essential. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Fine Dining” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$ Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans,

fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $ ŚRD / PŁD (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 17 From the same lot behind Powiśle’s Mr. Pancake, so already you know you’re getting yourself into a place that makes a big deal of being zany. So it proves: Coca Cola sausages and burger soup are a couple of dishes that immediately flash up. Beyond this, and the slightly jarring baby pink and powder blue colors, it’s not a bad detour from the culinary norm. We enjoyed the ‘chicken salsa’. $

INTERNATIONAL CUISINE, BEAUTIFUL INTERIOR

- YOUR PLACE TO BE

Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, stoldzielnia.pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were they thinking ignoring the form book like that? No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$ Szklarnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 690 511 020, restauracjaszklarnia.pl The cuisine is influenced by the season, which means plenty of light summer dishes presented with real aplomb. Recognizable by the dazzle of neon and greenhouse outside, this is a restaurant that seamlessly fits with the Soho surrounds. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, tamka.43.pl Ground floor: upmarket cafe serving Chopin fans. Upstairs: a fine dining restaurant in which the seasonal menu sets the natural flavors of Poland against the culinary know-how of tomorrow. It’s easy to drop serious money

ul. Wilcza 50/52 tel. 22 623 02 90 wilcza50restaurant wilcza50 www.wilcza50.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants here, but you’ll still feel it’s worthwhile. $$$ Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18 Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is a long communal table that lends a celebratory buzz. Menu highlights include homemade pasta and ravioli as well as pizzas that are held in particularly high regard. The location on Foksal makes affords opportunities for people watching. $$ Warburger Na Talerzu (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so much more. A complete upgrade from their original joint in Mokotów, the real attraction is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal. $$

Wilcza 50 (D5) ul. Wilcza 50, dwietrzecie.waw.pl The helter skelter culinary history of Wilcza has seen umpteen openings and closings, and this L-shaped corner unit has been the principal killing field. The latest development has seen the acclaimed Dwie Trzecie rebrand as Wilcza 50 and revamp their menu. Big on natural, local interiors, the cooking is modern and inspired. $$

Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Znajomi Znajomych (C5) ul. Wilcza 58A, open Mon-Thu 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 13:00-3:00; Sun 13:00-1:00, znajomiznajomych.waw.pl You can’t label Zna Zna a restaurant because it’s so much more than that: screenings, DJs, yard sales, book readings… there’s not a thing they don’t turn their hand to. But that’s not to say this retro-styled hangout can’t turn their hand to food – here that means light bites, pizzas, burgers and a recommended chili con carne. $$

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint

comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened

Lebanese Restaurant

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Still the Best after all these years (since 1997)!

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

www.lecedre.pl

listings / restaurants by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Enoteka (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square – and a menu by Paweł Męziński: yep, the same guy who made their kitchen great back when it all first began in 2009. Add a handpicked wine list from some of the top producers in the world and you have a place that’s definitely one to watch for. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27, winiarnia-kotlownia.pl You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86, tel. 22 654 3277 Not long back this was the go-to place for Italian expats looking for pizza. What’s gone wrong? No idea, but recent trips reveal a kitchen that hasn’t so much rested on its laurels as died on them. $

Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$

Trattoria Murano (B1) ul. Pokorna 2, tel. 516 754 300, trattoriamurano.pl Boosted by a number of new real estate projects, Muranów is in the midst of an unlikely renaissance. A direct knock-on has been the birth of numerous restaurants, though few can compete with Trattoria Murano. Looking dapper with its zigzagging brick patterns, circular lights, and large summer terrace, the good mood is further enhanced by a highly credible menu that scores well on the Italian classics. The bistecca di manzo (beef tenderloin with green pepper sauce) is a wonder. $$ www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel. 22 356 10 50, & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$

Łuski i Ości ul. Zajączka 9A, luskiosci.pl A fun design (cool wall art and a wraparound aquarium built into the bar) is ably supported by a comprehensive range of sushi – the imaginative presentation is fitting of some of the more unconventional pieces: the Californian rolls aren’t reticent about involving ingredients such as chili, passion fruit and jalapeno.

Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

Omami (D5) ul. Mokotowska 29 (enter from Krucza) Sushi has been side-lined and ramen is rising. Opened at press time, Omami promise four types of ramen, not to mention steamed buns and other budget-minded Japanese options. $

japanese & sushi Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. $$ Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Shoku (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-ofmouth. In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industrial-looking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake,

Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Temari (D6) ul. Mokotowska 8, temari.pl Pristine, almost holistic in ambiance, the idea here is to create a top class joint for sushi ‘to go’. No expense has been spared on the packaging, ingredients and overall look, the trouble is, sushi doesn’t naturally keep. Our Little Kyoto Box was full of bright sparkly colors, but the rolls already showed the tell-tale signs of having lost their moisture. Fingers crossed they see sense and start making sushi to order instead – if they do, we have a winner. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl It’s been a magical debut year, that’s for sure. How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. $$

jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded. Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788,

Restauracja Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104 / 106, 02-620 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 646 42 08 www.restauracjastarydom.pl

Restauracja Zielnik ul. Odyńca 15, 02-608 Warszawa tel.: (+48) 22 844 35 00 www.restauracjazielnik.pl

Restauracja PAPU

Al. Niepodległości 132/136, 02-554 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 856 77 88 www.restauracjapapu.pl

BREAKFAST SERVED ALL DAY

Plac Bankowy 4, Warszawa ZdrowaKonkurencja.pl +48 572 322 222

listings / restaurants podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

latin & mexican Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant. Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $ Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$ Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef” Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl

Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$

IE ŚNIADAFN ST A K /BREA 0

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LUNCH 12:00-16:00

Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is by far the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing. Newly expanded, meaning diners no longer engage in games of Twister while grappling with their burrito. $ La Sirena (D5) ul. Pięka 54 Warsaw’s Mexican scene is finally showing signs of maturing beyond the 90s: La Sirena is particularly interesting, with an edgy interior that speaks of backstreet Mexico City. Brought to you by the same team as the amazing Dziurka od Klucza restaurant in Powiśle, the food has got this place packing out. Heat levels need to be adjusted upwards, but even so this looks set to be one of the breakthrough hits of 2016. $$ Loco Mexicana (A6) ul. Grójecka 27, locomexicano.pl Everything looks a little second-hand, smudged and smeared. Even the menu is little more than a rumpled pile of papers. And there’s the colors: heavy purples, paintings of Mariachi men and brightly colored throws. It gives you a headache. It doesn’t improve with the food, which is stodgy, limp and generally lifeless. That their lunch deal consisted of Russian pierogi says all you need to know about this supposed Mexican. The reprieve comes in the form of 12 or so beer taps serving a decent selection of punk beers. $ La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, lafiesta.pl What was once a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic turnabout. The sombreros and crap have been replaced by a psychedelic, Day of the Dead-style featuring skeletal Mariachi men, not to mention no shortage of tequila bottles.

TIME 21zł

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OwOCOwe kOktajLOVe 12,00 zł/szt

tki / Czwar ay d thurs

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ul. Okrzei 23 03-715 WarszaWa tel 22 40 45 489

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listings / restaurants But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. Is his menu up to scratch? Absolutely no idea. We left after having a run-in with the worst service experienced since the Cold War ended. $ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ Thai Me Up (E4) ul. Foksal 16, thaimeup.pl Taking the spot once occupied by Papaya, Thai Me Up offers up a far more informal experience than the former, something understood by one look at the interior: gone is the slick look of yesteryear, replaced by something far more casual, fun and cluttered. As for the food, that succeeds in bringing the fresh, zippy tastes of Asia to Foksal. The wok dishes are a forte and deserve special attention. The Mexican (D1) ul. Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, mexican.

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pl Everything Mexican food shouldn’t be. There’s zero zing, and no matter what you order anticipate mysterious gloop with lots of mashed cabbage. It’s all such a shame, because with its burbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks like it could be the real deal. Find their latest imposter hawking for custom on Zgoda 6. $$ Restaurante Bunuel (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554 Spanish-owned Bunuel has left the public in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. $$ Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. $

middle eastern

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Marrakesh (E5) ul. Wilcza 11 Swapping their Jerozolimskie address for a Wilcza postcode, the changes at Marrakesh haven’t just been geographical. Adding meat to their menu, keynote features of this Moroccan hangout number some of the better hummus in town – it’s

listings / restaurants miles ahead of the cement mix found in some spots. Open from 10 a.m., their breakfast is as decent way as any to start the day. $ Meza Beirut (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 692 7555, mezabeirut.pl God knows how many restaurants have chanced their luck in this location, though Meza Beirut look a better bet than most to break the hex. Lebaneserun, the menu here is comprehensive with all the requisite hot and cold mezze and grilled and skewered meats. Early feedback has been largely positive, with decent prices and fresh flavors doing their bit to stir local interest. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl It says a lot for Warsaw’s developing tastes that it can now house a successful Yemeni venture. Bathed in chatter and chaotic kitchen sounds, Sokotra is an informal place with Indian twists on the menu, and a card that encourages plenty of plate sharing. $$

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen. But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic

villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$

and the first secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$

Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $

PERFECT ITALIAN CUISINE IN THE HEART OF MURANÓW ul. Pokorna 2/U26 tel. 516 754 300 www.trattoriamurano.pl Open Mon-Sun 11:30-22:00

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Shush! Big Brother is watching in the Red Pig, but the beady-eyed tyrants who stare down from the portraits do little to impede the sense of revelry. A cheeky celebration of days of yore, this commie-themed restaurant is always great fun. The menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the proletariat and the dignitary. Another vodka, comrade, www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$

Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl See in Autumn amid curling pathways and bursting shrubs, or sit inside in an interior that conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$

RESTAURANT &

VODKA

AT E L I E R

Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl The dashing interior causes you to stop, look and touch. On one side, a gleaming bar with twinkling bottles, and on the other, a smart series of rooms whose ash-colored tones are punctuated with dashes of copper. The menu has a traditional heart yet a contemporary style, and includes golonka to make the heart flutter: glorious slow-cooked meat alongside horse radish ice cream and a

creamy cabbage mousse. The vodka pairing menu is essential! $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Halka Restaurcja po polsku (E9) ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305,

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

listings / restaurants restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates. $$ Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead! An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the design (concrete floors, exposed brickwork) features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $ Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006 Exceeding all expectations in their second year, the Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers. Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. Incidentally, the sea buckthorn cream was our top dessert of 2015. $$ Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. $$

Kmicic (D1) ul. Piwna 27, kmicicrestauracja.pl Aiming to evoke the spirit of pre-war Warsaw, Kmicic is something of a veteran on the Old Town circuit, and as such a perennial favorite of passing tourists. The menu leans heavily towards traditional and is noted for its game including pheasant, venison and boar. $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional. Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$

Traditional Polish cuisine Live music The best wine, regional beer and spirits Grand Kredens - 19 years full of tradition

Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Sneaked off a lively street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Agata Wojda’s cooking is sublime, and on our latest trip include a gentle goose confit rested on pumpkin puree and prune sauce and a smoked trout mousse full of unexpectedly vivid flavors. It’d be easy to write this off as just simple stuff done well, but you know that’s not the case: if it really were that straightforward, everyone would be pulling it off. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Modern Polish”

Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Falloff-the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314,

Aleje Jerozolimskie 111 tel. +48 22 629 80 08 Mob. +48 697 900 000 kredens@kredens.com.pl www.kredens.com.pl Share your opinion www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants podwale25.pl Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście,

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. $$ Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. $ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Beaver tail one month, carp heads the next.

Combing the farms and forests of Poland for his ingredients, chef Aleksander Baron’s menu is a daring exploration of his nose-to-tail philosophy with many of his methods reprising extinguished traditions. It’s a real experience, and one that’s enjoyed inside a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. $$

Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$

listings / restaurants U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, uszwejka. pl Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, varso-vie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus. The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse with mascarpone and passion fruit jelly. Exemplary. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek. eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of

Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and tender braised veal that’s good for the chills. You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

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listings / restaurants The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

specialty food shops

seafood

Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. And don’t miss a chat with the nation’s most celebrated butcher: Pan Grzegorz of Crazy Butcher.

Zmianu Klimatu (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22 Fancy looking at tarted up Varosvians whilst eating in your own boat? Do just that at Zmianu Klimatu, a tiny restaurant that somehow manages to squeeze in a sailing boat that seats six or so people. In keeping with the maritime hint, the menu explores the deep blue sea with a small selection of seafood that includes grilled octopus, halibut and bream. $$

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet

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ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Wed, Fri & Sat (see website for details), biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912

listings / restaurants Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine.

pl Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks.

Kosher Shop (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream.

Steak Club Online orders: steakclub.pl Online meat portal that will deliver the kind of beef usually only available to the top restaurants straight to your door. Expat owned and run, the repertoire has recently been extended to include other meats such as turkey.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however. Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, littleindia.pl The definitive Indian store though it doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the flagship Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early. Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries. Mojo Picon (D5) ul. Poznańska 3, mojopicon.pl Mojo Picon specializes in vending Spanish groceries, expressly the produce of the Canary Islands. A creditable charcuterie section is enhanced by an array of cheese, wine and jarred exotica. Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.

Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$

Polish food the way it’s meant to be...

Piwna 27 Stare Miasto (old town) tel. 22 635 3121

Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / restaurants pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. $$$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef”

thai Thai Me Up (E4) ul. Foksal 16, thaimeup.pl Taking the spot once occupied by Papaya, Thai Me Up offers up a far more informal experience than the former, something understood by one glance at the interior: gone are the gloss finishes of yesteryear, replaced by something far more casual, fun and cluttered (check the monkey lights!). As for the food, that succeeds in bringing the fresh, snappy tastes of Asia to Foksal. The wok dishes are a forte and deserve special attention. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect:

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and vibrant colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$

Thaisty (C2) pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. $$

Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a snappy, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai something of a must. $

uzbek Manty (C3) ul. Elektoralna 24 Even with its colorful throws and woodsy knickknacks Manty’s high ceilings and wide open spaces mean intimacy is in short supply. Instead, people talk about the food, which in this case means ultra-cheap piles of Uzbek goodies: delicate manty dumplings with a cream dip and chili kick, or the more substantial lamb plov – a warming heap of rice, mutton, carrots and peppers. Chances are you’re going to love it. $

whole foods Edamame Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this

vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. $$ Krowazywa (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 881 777 894 ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl Packed with girls wearing skating clothes and moon boots, this burgery makes a big boast that their whole menu is 100% plant-based and their food compiled using ‘the best, freshest, unprocessed and full-balanced ingredients.’ The Warzywex, a burger composed of marinated and grilled slices of local veg, is an absolute winner. $ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been nothing short of fabulous. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568 What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $ Momencik (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Vegan burritos may sound wrong, but at Momencik they’re every bit as good as anything you’ll be used to. The only difference is that you won’t leave feeling like you’ve eaten a sack of socks: on the contrary, it’s got all the perky flavour that Mexican food should have, but none of the unpleasant post-meal bloaty bubbles. $ Youmiko Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Hoża 62 Already well-established in Kraków, Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame on Wilcza nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’. $

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTABLE

HALA ELECTORALNA 24 (ul. Elektoralna 24) The last couple of years have seen a buzz build around Chłodna and Elektoralna, and this arty venue taps into that general sense of excitement. The simplicity of the interior is jazzed up with flashes of greenery and industrial trimmings, and this dual-level space is fast attracting attention for its occasional live concerts and a menu of café bites, fruity cocktails and artisan beer.

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39 We’re told the interiors were purposefully kept neutral to keep the focus on the product – and crikey, what bread. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. Some claim it’s the best bakery in Poland, and we’re not arguing. Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger. Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com The battle lines are drawn: on one side it’s the slobs of Plan B, and on the other the snobs of Charlotte. While the fancy crowd (all jangling Porsche keys and idiotic selfies) isn’t to everyone’s liking, Charlotte’s baked goods are commonly hailed as things of rare beauty. Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

N’ICE CREAM FACTORY (ul. Chmielna 9/5) Whilst you’ll find pancakes and smoothies on the menu, it’s the ice cream that’s the real hook. Made using liquid nitrogen for extra smoothness, options to add alcohol to your ice cream mean it’s not just kids who thrill over this newbie. Vapor puffs and hazard signs add the impression of being in some nutty professor’s laboratory.

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that many are already calling the best in Warsaw. Aside from baguettes, muffins, croissants, etc. this smart corner unit has a superb wine list and a smattering of main courses that include flat iron steak. SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, sam.info.pl A central, communal

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listings / cafés & wine bars table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata KusinaDoran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc.

Zdrowa Konkurencja Pl. Bankowy 4, zdrowakonkurencja.pl It’s taken a while, but slowly Pl. Bankowy is being turned into a place you don’t just rush through on the way back from work. Aside from piping hot, fresh wheels of bread, visitors are popping in to collect readymade bagels and sandwiches loaded with pulled pork, pastrami and other such bites.

cafés Bali Café Złote Tarasy, Blue City & Galeria Mokotów, balicafe.pl This chain of dim sum bars provides sustenance for those turned-off by the more typical mall offerings. Inspired by the owner’s travels to Bali, this café does its best to lock out the retail surrounds and give shoppers a break. Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1 The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), blikle.pl There’s a cultured, prewar look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts. Bubbleology (D4) ul. Chmielna 26, bubbleology.pl Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. Warsaw’s

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

original bubble tea stop offers an arsenal of fruit flavors concocted by zany-looking lab-coated staff. Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, tel. 794 000 634, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal. Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, afeiluzja.pl Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema. Café Lorentz (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 3, cafelorentz.pl Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks (obviously, depending on the season). As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy. Charlotte Menora (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Set to become a cornerstone fixture of new look Pl. Grzybowski, Charlotte Menora is already proving popular with fashionistas, success stories and plonkers. But if the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several

Jewish delicacies: the bagels are pretty good. Chmiel Café (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, chmielcafe.pl Rows and rows of Belgian beers occupy the shelves, while behind the counter find pedigree treats, cakes and ice cream from the Slow Food approved Consonni brand. Forget the industrial rubbish, the ice cream produced by this lot is an absolute standout. With the outdoor terrace making its debut, it’s the ideal family solution with something for everyone. Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, coffeekarma.eu Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open a book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee. Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level. Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom. pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field. Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose

listings / cafés & wine bars an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital. Deseo ul. Angorska 27, deseopatisserie.com Conducting operations from a glassed-off laboratory at Deseo’s mothership in Saska Kępa, watching pastry chef Piotr Chylarecki at work is to witness a mix of magic and science: you’re not sure which. Calculated precision and intricate methods collide with passion and understanding for the products at hand, themselves sourced from afar afield as Madagascar and the Dominican Republic. The denouement is a selection of pralines and cakes that cause you to stop and stare at these intricate baubles. Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural. Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30 An attractive modern cafe whose primary talking point is the terrace: a colorful affair shaded by dozens of umbrellas dangling from above. How U Doin’ (D4) ul. Zgoda 13 Apparently modelled on the café that appears in Friends, as questionable as the premise might sound there’s no doubting that How U Doin’ have hit the ground running. Packed most hours, while the décor isn’t the most faithful replica of you’ll find of Central Perk, this spot does manage to nail the neighborhood atmosphere down to a tee. And besides that, it works as a café in its own right: great coffee, health kicks and even a few maverick beers to their name. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Kawiarnia Fabryczna (E3) ul. Fabryczna 28/30, open 7:30-22:00, kawiarniafabryczna.pl Penning your memoirs? Here’s the place to do so. With its natural wood floors, muted lighting and retro style chairs, Fabryczna is just about the definitive Powiśle café. Order an Ethiopian drip coffee and get that notepad out. Kos (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well. Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, award-winning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits.

Kosmos (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2 It’s all coming together nicely for Pl. Grzybwoski, and the opening of places like Kosmos is only good news. It’s relatively small floorplan swings in its favor, with this café’s natural intimacy working well with a design that features mismatched furnishings, a bouncy sofa, a mirrored wall

and a timber-clad bar. Grab a bagel (possibly the best Warsaw’s seen?), order coffee and then fix yourself on the views of the square glistening under the first spring light. Krucza 23 Café & Bakery (D5) ul. Krucza 23 They didn’t spend much time thinking about the name, that’s a given, but that’s not to say creativity is entirely absent. There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light. Legal Cakes (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, legalcakes.com ‘No need to cheat’ chirps their motto. Proclaiming to be the first of its kind in Poland, Legal Cakes specialize in gorgeous cakes and assorted desserts – the difference being these are all made from completely natural and healthy ingredients. Occupying a pinkish, feminine space just off Chłodna street, their own-made chocolate / fruit ‘batons’ are an essential takeout item. Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1 & ul. Zwycięzców 49 Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil.

Chmielna 9a 513 422 908

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listings / cafés & wine bars Mała Ziemiańska (D7) ul. Oleandrów 2/4, malaziemianska.pl Sat as it is on a street that’s become the Center of Now, Mała Ziemiańska is a pleasing throwback to slower times. Designed to evoke the artistic spirit of the mid-19th century, this warming café is steeped in shadow and curiosities. A celebration of pre-war Warsaw, the literary pretensions of this bolthole find the walls clad with archaic books and sepia photos of the city that once was. May places like this flourish. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe. MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 A place full of everlasting love for the humble donut. Inspired by their travels to New York, owners Kamila and Patrycja have filled a hole in the market by creating a cool spot that’s committed to natural ingredients and the artisan process. Those glistening technicolors you see are down to the use of fresh fruit and dried flowers! Soft and chewy, enjoy dazzling flavors such as mango or hibiscus. Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while autumn sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd. Stół ul. Nowolipki 17C Poor Muranów – while the rest of Warsaw joined the foodie revolution, Muranów was left looking at everyone else having fun. There is hope, and much of it is based around Nowolipki. Opening just days after Falafel Bejrut, Stół have created a buzz of their own thanks to a small menu of pancakes (both sweet and savory), sandwiches and homemade cakes. A place of genuine homely goodness, locals are already proclaiming it as the kind of place the area has lacked. Stor (E3) ul. Tamka 33 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about. Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a

pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans. Wrzenie Świata (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 7 Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior. Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars.

ice Furoszron (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, furoszron.pl Fabulous shaved ice drinks served through a hole-in-awall. Look out for the Mango Love. La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 The pedestrian choice of flavors mark this out as one for the traditionalists, nonetheless, the quality is exceptional. Must try: pink grapefruit. Limoni Canteri 1952 Various locations, see: lodziarnielimoni.pl Traditional gelato matched against oddities such as cucumber, beer and, even, ice cream for your dog! Lody Prawdziwe (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 22 A legitimate contender for the best ice cream in town – just wait for the cherry season for an ice cream to die for. Nitro Lody (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 11 This venture specializes in ice cream frozen with liquid nitrogen by labcoated staff: the whole process ensures your ice cream is smoother than a pane of glass. Sucre Various locations, see: sucre.pl Others get the headlines for their gimmicky flavors, Sucre prefer to keep it simple. That works in their favor: there’s no better natural ice cream in Warsaw.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs

listings / cafés & wine bars from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Dekant Wine Bar ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Expectations are high: even before they opened Wine Spectator magazine bequeathed Dekant with an ‘Award of Excellence’. Just what’s the buzz about? Primarily a wine choice that is set to eventually extend beyond 500 wines. Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground.

Enoteka (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square – and a menu by Paweł Męziński: yep, the same guy who made their kitchen great back when it all first began in 2009. Add a handpicked wine list from some of the top producers in the world and you have a place that’s definitely one to watch for. Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues with the appearance of Heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled floors, and simple, well-thought interiors. With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, Heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an ascendant new money crowd. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist,

awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels. This vibrant space promises much, not least on account of an inner terrace deck that you know is going to be the talk of this summer. Wine Taste By Kamecki (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4 Run by Piotr Kamecki, President of the Polish Association of Sommeliers, this beautiful glass-fronted unit functions both as a wine bar and store offering expert advice, cellar design and tastings. WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge.

The award-winning Enoteka Polska is back, this time with a new location in the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town. A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money. Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl tel. 882 048 012

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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

WOLNE CHWILE (ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 2) Come summer everyone loves drinking down by the riverside, but up until now that’s largely meant ordering flat, yellow liquid from Europe’s ‘macro-breweries’. This summer sees a shift away from corpo-lager with the addition of some temporary tap bars specializing in local artisan offers. Leading the charge is Wolne Chwile, a bouncing spot with live music and DJs, not to mention plenty of hammocks and deckchairs for the more lethargic drinker.

bars & pubs 2Koła ul. Tunelowa 2B Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual. Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite… Afera Na Szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3 Resplendent with white brick walls and good-humored murals, in terms of style Afera seems more sanitized than Warsaw’s other shot bars. But is it actually more sane? No chance! When the clubs have closed top-up your alcohol levels by necking little shots of horror from one of the most complete vodka menus in town. Build up your resistance to the booze that follows with solid portions of traditional Polish food.

PUZZLE (Bulwar Jana Karskiego) Making its debut this summer, Puzzle exploits its riverside location to the max with a sun drenched wooden deck perched within meters of the Wisła. Making use of upturned crates, deckchairs and repurposed oil drums, it’s a simple place that excels at doing basic things exceptionally well: if it’s beer you’re after, then how about a craft offering from one of Poland’s new generation breweries; if it’s food, then the pancakes and waffles usually hit the spot.

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

Bar & Books (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen through the steamy summer air, this white townhouse radiates cool: lights glimmer, piano music tinkles. Wood-paneled and lined with leather-bound tomes, there’s a sense of dignity that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail scene. There’s humor, as well, courtesy of portraits of chimps togged out like 18th century gentry. Similar to a members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ cocktails mixed and muddled by the sort of charming bartenders you’d trust serving Bond.

listings / nightlife Bar Gemba (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52 Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras. Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. Replacing the oddly downcast Jedna Trzecia, Gemba slots in well amongst the other post-hipster bars in the area. Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, barwarszawa.pl Thick with alcoholic fumes and the sound of drunken tantrums, Bar Warszawa excels in its role as a late night dive bar. Split on two levels, upstairs is where most head to flop around a retro lounge interior filled with nostalgic decorations that tempt kleptomaniacs. The cut price shots and pints do their bit in facilitating slurred conversations with a variety of strangers. Not surprisingly, evenings often extend beyond the advertised closing time of 4 a.m. Bar Warszawa De Luxe (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most. Bar Wieczorny (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl Preparing for their first summer, it’s going to be one helluva’ place to visit once the weather heats up: that garden is going to get naughty! The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game. Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13 There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco

nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. Beerokracja (D5) Marszałkowska 99/101, beerokracja.pl You can forget that it’s just opened, the subterranean Beerokracja isn’t far removed from the student union bars you may have frequented 20 years back: Nirvana and Hendrix posters, live bands, a big screen for football and lots of shouty background din. But despite looking like it was rustled up in a day the place works faultlessly: find a great line-up of new wave beers served by a staff who prefer to pour your beer first than answer the phone that’s ringing in their pocket. Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank. Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja) Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia. Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces. A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews. Bierhalle Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used

the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd. What has remained constant is the energy. Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound. BrewDog Warszawa (D4) ul. Widok 8 First things first: BrewDog’s beers begin at zł. 17. On learning this there are some who scatter, others who scoff, but the let’s get the facts straight – you’re unlikely to find a cheaper pint of BrewDog in the world! Hailed as one of the top artisan breweries on the planet, quality is the name of the game here: this is a place where the interiors rock and the beers go BOSH. No pub will do a better job this year. British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, bbpub.pl In terms of aesthetic it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment. Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, kulturalna.pl The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience. Ceska (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Having promised to never return following an incident with a nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds. Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia. waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / nightlife more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. Column Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol) Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order

a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless. In summer, enjoy your drinks out in the beautifully tranquil courtyard.

is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer.

Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. Fokim (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26 To like is an edgy interior that includes a neon that urges customers to ‘eat, drink, dance, riot’ and an Asian-inspired drinks list that features sake on-tap, shots with names like Karate Kid, and cocktails with proper verve: e.g., the Marry Me, a bonkers, bastardized version of the Bloody Mary that’s actually better than the real thing.

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Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success

Heritage Birreria Artigianale (E3) ul. Tamka 9 A new twist on the multi-tap concept, Heritage’s hook is their obsession with Italian and British gypsy breweries. Eyes naturally fall on ten taps dispensing beers from Thornbridge, San Gabriel, Birrificio Milano, etc., and while the drawn-out pouring time can frustrate, most agree that the drinks are worth the wait. Find a well-presented middle-aged crowd squashed inside a tiny little unit that’s often full to capacity. Hoppiness (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31 You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor. There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray! Hopsters (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul. Nowolipki) You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz. Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Even in an area bulging with bars, Jabeerwocky has become a point of pilgrimage for beer aficionados. If the creative line-up of guerrilla breweries wasn’t enough, then there’s the management’s readiness to roll their sleeves

listings / nightlife up and even brew their own beer. Add to that an atmosphere of general hubbub (and more than two toilets!) and you have our favorite tap bar of all time!

ing photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Junior (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12 Warsaw is bloated with bars for that big Friday night. Sometimes though, you want something a bit more personal: a place with good beer but an intimate atmosphere. A haunt where the owners know your name and will happily keep serving for as long as you’re drinking. Junior is that place, a warm little room with five or so taps serving out craft beer, and a promise to become Warsaw’s primary port of call for all things relating to whisky.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage. Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers are fine.

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz ul Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars.

Karowa 31 (D3) ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed by Bram, the former manager of the London Cocktail Club. Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious! Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interest-

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Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

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listings / nightlife Machinarium (E4) ul. Smolna 36, machinarium.pub Unfurling in a metallic greenish haze the ground floor isn’t too dissimilar from a ship’s hull: the bar is all bolts and rivets, and the whole ‘age of travel’ theme is further explored through illustrative paintings of steam engines, zeppelins and other flying contraptions – Jules Verne would love it. The basement offers something else entirely: a rambling white painted space whose minimal design is punctuated with the occasional lantern, clock and reject store sofa. The four beer taps see frequent rotation and the fridge is kept busy with new wave beer. Między Ustami (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 With the celebrated Hendrick’s gin so prominently pimped, it makes sense that the quirky design of Między Ustami is more in line with a Victorian apothecary than anything else. Peculiarities particular to this era are abundant (nonsensical wall paintings featuring fairies and fantastical creatures) and are matched against deep forest colors and copious wood and leather. It’s Lewis Carrol meets Phileas Fogg, with suitably creative cocktails to boot. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion

comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans. The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit. Palmier (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Here, class and high times are in abundance inside an interior that’s all cool stone and pot palms. But it’s the narrow terrace that promises to be the place to be seen: join and enjoy the ‘Warsaw scene’ alongside a crowd that’s been compared to a Ralph Lauren billboard. The authors cocktails are fantastic. Panorama Sky Bar (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time success-

fully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), open 24 hrs We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells and queue scrum. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-of-term street party. Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative. Pozytywy (D7) ul. Oleandrów 3 Oleandrów’s rebirth as Warsaw’s center of cool continues with the opening of Pozytywy, an interesting bar apparently owned by a sound engineer – hence a design that mimics a recording studio. In terms of drinks, it’s probably the most varied selection in the vicinity, with their proposal covering a choice of wines on tap, and dozens of bottled beers from Poland’s new generation breweries. As cool as the interior might be, it’s the terrace that’s the best place to enjoy these.

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

listings / nightlife Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjasloik.pl Słoik looks bright, loud and vibrant, so it’s no surprise to learn their cocktail maestros specialize in maverick creations. A source of particular pride are drinks that celebrate Poland: we’re talking about vodkas infused with juniper and vanilla, then mixed with marmalades and other exotica like pickled cucumber juice. The tastes are unique and leave you bandy-legged and shouting for more. Solec 44 (F3) ul. Solec 44, solec.waw.pl A ghastly commie-era pavilion is the unlikely home of this Powiśle mainstay. The food – a gloriously gory celebration of nose-to-tail cooking – is spot on, but so too are the drinks. The bottled beers reflect the exciting times in the Polish brewing industry, but forego these in favor of a stunning cocktail list that makes use of seasonal ingredients and homemade syrups and mixes. The design of Julian Karewicz, these are drinks that stop you in your tracks: the sea buckthorn vodka sour is pure boozy bliss. Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. Syreni Śpiew (F5) ul. Szara 10A, syrenispiew.pl Set in a beautifully restored piece of PRL concrete, Syreni Śpiew’s lasting popularity has proved the doubters wrong. This is not some one season wonder, rather a place that has gone from strength to strength. Primarily known for its hefty whisky offer (which is divided into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan),

the cocktails also stand up to scrutiny on account of their consistent quality. A genuinely unique drinking experience with cool elements of retro chic. Temat Rzeka (H5) Under Poniatowskiego Bridge When it first opened in 2013, nowhere else in Europe had more internet check-ins. While there’s a suspicion that this summer will see a power shift to the beach bars on the left of the Wisła, Temat Rzeka continues to draw a crowd of hundreds – sometimes even more. Based around a white, wooden bar, most drinkers spread themselves onto the sands outside once the beers are scored, giving a night out here the feeling of a giant beach party. A busy calendar of events features everything from DJ acts to craft fairs to volleyball competitions. Ulubiona (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27 Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months. Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytcuji 2, varso-vie.pl A cool bar / restaurant decorated with art that’s both sensual and suggestive. Behind the bar, homemade syrups, seasonal ingredients and high caliber alcohol are all present, but so to the most important component: the staff who can handle them. Try the Polish Colada: involving Bols Natural Yogurt, Pawlina vodka, pineapple, lemon and sprinkling of chocolate, it’s a superb drink that does a grand job of rehabilitating a largely derided classic.

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The View (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/ club looks set to reinvent the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. The look is sleek and stylish.

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listings / nightlife Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11 A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals. Woda Ognista (E5) ul. Wilcza 8 Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes.

clubs Backstage Studio (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37 Snuggled into a row of shabby cabins mostly rented to sex shops and gambling dens, Backstage feels secretive and clandestine. In spite of that,

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

it’s earned a name among the younger generation as one of the best spaces in Warsaw for electro, minimal and techno nights (check their Facebook for upcoming events). Rather bigger than it looks, step downstairs to find chaos unfurling in a labyrinthine basement. Bal (F5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, niechzyjebal.pl If you thought Nowogrodzka was just about grungy craft beer dens then think again. Proving you wrong is Bal, a club that draws a pleasureseeking party crew of waifish, wasted model-types and assorted hangers-on. Find them twerking away under one of the most interesting lighting arrangements in the city. Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22 Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. Klubo (D3) ul. Czackiego 3/5, klubo.pl You can almost feel this club’s legendary status as you, descend down into their basement. Dark, vibrant and decorated in a way that evokes the glory years of the 80s and 90s, tip down

their house cocktails inside and writhe alongside other clubbers in a series of deep reddish rooms banging out house, disco and R&B sounds. Check their web for deals, offers and opening times.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

ONLINE VINTAGE STORES DECOBAZAAR.COM If you’re online and shopping for vintage, make Decobazaar your starting point. Set up in 2005, it’s a veritable treasure-trove of vintage gems offered by young artists, niche designers and individual sellers from all over Poland. The assortment is filled with bombshell pieces from the 70s, 80s and 90s, among them items from Gianni Versace, Christian Lacroix, Salvatore Ferragamo, Jil Sander and Ungaro, as well as many cheaper bargains.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MAŁGOSIA KRAKOWSKA

CUKIER-PUDER.COM (pictured) This little gem is only two-years-old and its popularity is still soaring. Owners Agnieszka and Kasia came up with the idea to start an online vintage store that would be a tribute to their beloved 1960s and 1970s. “We wanted to remind people of their crazy times at the 69 club.” Cukier Puder Vintage Store offers a taster of the timeless eclecticism of the 60s and 70s with vintage clothing and accessories such as bags, sunglasses and footwear. Find them also trading at the Zoo Market every weekend.

RETROMANIA.PL A silk dress from Balmain for zł. 250? Cashmere cardigans, ethnic prints or silk scarves from Ungaro? Retromania.pl peddles items from the 40s through to the 70s, but maintains a good nose for the latest fashion trends. And men also have plenty of choice: browse a sea of silk ties and various accessories. PATYNA.PL This well-stocked online showroom is a goldmine of retro Polish design with beautifully renovated 60s, 70s or 80s tableware and glass & decorative items. Each seller has its own character with well-established shops represented such as LovKov, Szpeje or Drewniana Kamienica as well as lesser-known brands and vintage items. Expect quality aesthetics with a bit of a twist.

Anacomito tel. 515 634 010, anacomito.com Luxuriouslooking waist bags make for fashion that’s both modern and logical. More so, it makes the outsized bags of yesteryear increasingly redundant. Either order online, or look out for their presence at Warsaw’s various urban markets. Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. di Trevi Boutique Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury. Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka) Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other www.warsawinsider.pl

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ZOFIA GAWRYŚ, OPPOSITE BY PANNA TUTLI PUTLI

fashion pages

STATE OF DE C O N S T R U C T I O N

One of the few torch bearers of ethnic style, Chi-Chi Ude has wowed the Polish fashion market with her vivacious designs. By Małgosia Krakowska

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

fashion pages

er Instagram account is filled with photos of designs that bring to mind the marketplaces of Nigeria and Senegal. A modern take on African fashion, her woven clothing is covered in symbols and motifs. “In Africa, clothes are used to convey cultural information,” says Chi-Chi Ude, a 33-year-old fashion designer. “That is the way people communicate with each other. Colors and patterns are in themselves a unique language.” Decipher, decode, deconstruct. “Fashion was my road to self-discovery,” she says. Born to a Polish-Nigerian couple, this spiritual journey ultimately manifested itself in her luminous designs. “I studied in Paris and spent three years of my life there. Both the different cultural setting and people redefined my sense of being. Undoubtedly, it influenced my perception of fashion. I remember every single time I passed by the Kenzo boutique on Boulevard de la Madeleine, I had to stop and take photos. Those designs juxtaposed the wild with the modern, form with chaos, and broke existing conventions; they fascinated me.” She cites her walks on rue du Fabourg Saint-Honoré as being the key to her early understanding of fashion. “I never dared to think that one day I would become a fashion designer. I saw fashion as a form of expo, and myself as the viewer.” But her true metamorphosis came after she returned to Poland. “The director and sculptor Julia Bui Ngoc was filming Thorgal and asked me to play one of the main characters: Kriss de Valnor. The character of de Vanlor – both charismatic and brave – liberated me from my ‘old conventions’. I quit my job and began creating fashion.” As we are talking, I can’t stop looking at her vivacious suit. The colors are enchanting, and the cloth embroidered with gold, brown and pink. “I called this suit Labyrinth, and view it as a commentary on my life vision.” Up until now, Chi-Chi has worked on ready fabrics purchased in Africa. At her June fashion show in Galeria Sztuki Projektowej she presented a new collection of original prints and patterns. “This was my way of demonstrating my personal ingredients,” she says. But even her vivid patterns have an element of restraint. “Rigorous cuts temper the riot of color and, in a way, also express humility.” Paying respect to the craftsmanship of her conceptual designer, Maria Lasota from Łódź, she also confesses admiration for other designers such as Italian-Hawaiian Stella Jean and Poland’s own Joanna Chawrot. “I strongly identify myself with designs that contain cultural ingredients and fuse classic tailoring with tribal patterns and prints.” “People always seek definitions and forms,” she adds. “Self-knowledge strengthens our self- confidence. But let’s not forget, clothes are superficial, it is our actions that truly define who we really are.” Website: Chichiude.com Instagram: @chi_chi_ude

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fashion pages

CITY JUNGLE In Out of Africa Karen Blixen wrote, “You know you are truly alive when you’re living among lions.” This summer plunge headfirst into the city jungle with vibrant colors accented with wild patterns that suggest the enchanting African spirit. Clockwise from left: Mombasa FluoMix Balls NUNC by Dominika Nowak, zł. 789 from nuncfashion.com; leafy ladies suit, zł. 1,500 from chichiude.com; necklace by Tribal Dance Collection, zł. 329, tsumijewelry.com; ‘feather’ earrings, zł. 185 by Katarzyna Kamińska from facebook.com/KatarzynaKamińskaART; Addis Ababa dress, zł. 399.20 at kokoworld.com

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

fashion pages

BEACH RESORT If the buoyancy of safari-style fashion is a tad too wild, choose some soothing monochromes for your day off at the beach. Mix riviera chic with boho for a more natural look and don’t forget that loose-fitting dress to show off your tan. Clockwise from top: Medusa & Athena bikini by Anyszka Fashion, zł. 359 at facebook.com/anyszkaofficial; Spectre&Maiden shorts by Anyszka Fashion, zł. 1,120 at showroom.pl; Glam Summer sandals, zł. 390 at loft37.eu; White Kimono by Magdalena Mól, zł. 419 at magdalenamol.pl; earrings by Indian Summer Collection, zł. 159 at tsumijewelry.com; bracelet by Indian Summer Collection, zł. 199 at tsumijewerly.com; necklace by Indian Summer Collection, zł. 299 at tsumijewelry.com

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listings / shopping extras for the all American look. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3 The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula. Kate Roxs ul. Radna 10, kateroxs.eu Beyond the slightly creepy / fetishistic window display (leather Roman body armor), this store has earned a reputation for high quality, natural leather bags. “Our inspiration,” says Kate, “comes from women, not trends.” Minty Dot ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance. Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space. Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris. Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes. And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!” Schubert ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? Time To... Design Shop ul. Poznańska 7, timeto.com.pl Discoveries include quirky, spiky bags from MadPax, Haribo jewelry adorned with Gummy Bears and animal print mugs from Pikczersy. Above all though, the place is about timepieces, namely highly individualistic works from the S.T.A.M.P.S brand: averaging around zł. 100, this is as affordable as talking points get.

fashion Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Balthazar ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. di Trevi Boutique ul. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Vauthier, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Pierre Balmain, Ralh Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish

design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Christian Louboutin, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Yves Salomon, Pierre Balmain, Beach Bunny, Kotur, Marc by Marc Jacobs, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Victoria Beckham.Kolekcje dla dzieci: Baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids. Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner. Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200? Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention

listings / shopping to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering. Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes. Murano Casa Piękna 24/26A, muranocasa.pl Calling Murano Casa ‘interesting’ would be courting severe understatement. From high bling (fancy chandeliers and gob-stopping furniture) to more moderate offers (Venetian carnival masks), it’s a great place to add some pizzazz to the home. The quality of the Italian brands can’t be disputed. noon/noon ul. Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), noonnoon.pl Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of

the furniture first hand.

the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards.

Reset Point ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. Plenty of pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic design studios.

Wawa Bla Bla ul. Dobra 15 A gift store with a difference: showcasing the working of Poland’s upcoming ‘street artists’, not to mention the British proprietor’s own photos of Warsaw’s graffiti, this shop is filled with unconventional keepsakes that include canvas prints, Warsaw-themed mugs and one-of-a-kind postcards.

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

malls & department stores

Velt ul. Próżna 12, wwvelt.pl Beautiful family-run glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in

Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini,

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listings / shopping Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. kencenter.pl

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, mysia3.pl

Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, Nenukko and more. Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

JW]\QY]M

We are a men’s fashion design studio with our own fashion label. Our concept is based around the unique but well-recognized Scandinavian style. Our brand values simplicity in its design while placing emphasis on details. ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 339 222, reykjavikdistrict.com

Our boutique offers shoes for both men and women sourced from Italy by the owner. Featuring prestigious brands otherwise unavailable on the Polish market, our models are always in line with the latest trends with each pair unique and unrepeatable there is text. ul. Piękna 11A, tel. 22 617 2222, ditrevi.pl

Bursztynek Bursztynek is the largest amber jewellery shop in Warsaw, though in addition to jewellery, you can also buy unique souvenirs related to amber and Warsaw as well as classic tourist souvenirs with Polish motifs. Part of the shop has been turned into a fascinating museum in which you can learn more about the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, tel. 506 007 685, bursztynek.co

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family activities Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

KID-FRIENDLY CAFES KRED CAFÉ (Smolna 8, kredcafe.pl) The most legendary of Warsaw’s kids cafes has a regular roster of events and workshops, a bookshop and play area. Birthday parties also organized, though even if there’s no special occasion, pop on down to the restaurant / café to enjoy a healthy menu designed with kid’s in mind.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

LITTLE GYM (pictured) (Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, thelittlegym.pl) On the ground floor find a colorful gym space targeted at kids aged from 4-months to 12-years old. Downstairs, a long narrow basement space reveals a Batida café equipped with stimulating games aimed at getting children away from the screen. Find also designated areas for romping and workshops.

MOLO KIDS CAFÉ (Klimczaka 17, molokidscafe.pl) A busy program of events keeps this Wilanów venue ticking over, with activities specifically tailored for kids aged from 3-months to 2-years, 2-4 years old, and 4+ (e.g. Funiversity classes that make science fun!). Find also a shop with a wide range of games and a delicious café-style menu. Baby showers and birthday parties also organized. POMPON ART CAFÉ (Młynarska 13) Not only does the premises get top marks for its impressive organic menu, but also for a gated play area that features a selection of Wendy houses to explore, forest-to-city play environments and an enclosed Nintendo/Wii room popular with older children (i.e. dads).

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered. Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, tel. 22 827 2744, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00, fryzjerkowo.pl This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English. Advance booking recommended. Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/art history) for children, young people and adults. Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in physical challenges, a variety of games and www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / family team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children. Guitar Classes Tel. 732 860 825, arekniezgoda@hotmail. com Private guitar lessons either at your place or in a private studio in Wilanów. Classic, acoustic and electric guitar taught by Arek, a 35-year old teacher who covers most styles from classic to pop/rock. Previous work experience includes teaching in private music schools in California and at The British School of Warsaw. Both kids and adults are welcome. Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl Children with excessive energy levels should head to Hangar 646. Located in a former airport hangar, the 2,700 sq/m of trampoline space includes a swimming pool of sponges. Children from three years old are welcome to let off steam, with instructors available to teach acrobatics and suchlike; or you can just bounce off walls! HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:0024:00, hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools. Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook and eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat.

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56 & ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, tel. 22 842 0728, thelittlegym.eu Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well. Mums & Tots mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web. Teatr Guliwer ul. Różana 16, tel. 22 845 16 76/77, box office open 9:00-17:30, teatrguliwer.waw. pl Well worth a visit, even for non-Polish

speakers. An exciting colorful premises with creative costumes make this the choice place to introduce the kids to theater. Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. 22 619 4041, open Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00, zoo.waw.pl The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’. Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, golfparkspoland.pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course. Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, zacheta.art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School

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listings / family in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, thebritishschool.pl The Early Years Foundation Stage is where a lifetime of learning begins. The British School, Warsaw provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though

available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School

curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

(multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu. pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months)

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listings / family and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

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The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, thebritishschool.pl Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a wellestablished International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Programme. Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School

flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep.edu. pl An English primary school designed to prepare children for their next steps in education in a friendly, caring and nurturing environment. We take children from the international community through the key learning stages so that they achieve to the best of their best ability through a fun learning experience.

(multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School are set to open their Erdkinder Montessori Middle School as of September 2016. Located at Tatrzańska 5A they promise an extraordinary opportunity for study, work and for daily living. Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pot-

listings / family tery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public PsychoPedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel. 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

not be the first choice of fabrics around sticky, chocolaty paws but every mummy needs a bit of luxury from time-to-time. The café divides its limited square meters evenly between parent and child expectations, creating space to relax, eat and play in: however, the gigantic doll’s house does suggest Barbie got the best deal.

cafes

shops

Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

Kopytko Mamuta ul. Boya-Żeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta.pl The creation of Kopytko Mamuta plugs a gap in the market, with beautifully cobbled shoes that are, in the words of the owner Agnieszka, ‘the essence of Parisian chic’. Specializing in trendy kicks from the likes of Mercredi Apres Midi, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming.

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, nabocafe.pl Nabo is run by a Danish couple and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion. Peek-a-boo ul. Karola Chodkiewicza 7, tel. 22 370 21 71, open Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 The pale palette and plush velvet upholstered furniture might

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.). It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

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health & beauty cycling stores & service Bikeman Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant. Accessories include helmets, gloves, backpacks plus everything you need to revive your bike if it passes out. Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572 Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out.

SUMMER SPORT FOR GENTS FIRST WARSAW GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB (ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf.com) Found 25 kilometers from Warsaw, this golf club features a par 72, 18-hole championship golf course set amid undulating landscape and 150-year old oaks. Set on the fringes of a swan-inhabited lake, a sundowner in the clubhouse is essential. SINNET CLUB (ul. Gołkowska 2, www.sinnet.pl) An exclusive members-only sports club featuring four full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts with artificial lighting for evening matches, three squash courts, a 25-meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities. WARSAW CRICKET CLUB (GOSiR, ul. Zachodnia 2 (Stare Babice), warsawcricketclub.pl) The oldest cricket club in the country is mainly comprised of Brits, Poles and South Asians. New members and supporters are welcomed – for details check their website. WARSAW POLO CLUB (ul. Działkowa 27 (Jaroszowa Wola), warsawpoloclub.com) Set inside the Chojnów Landscape Park, this ten-hectare complex includes two polo pitches, a large clubhouse suited to gatherings of Warsaw’s high rollers and even on-site accommodation.

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Wygodny Rower Various locations, tel. 888 498 498, wygodnyrower.pl Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.

golf Centrum Golf ul. Burakowska 15, centrumgolf.pl Fulfill the dream of playing at Pebble Beach or Torrey Pines by booking a tee-time on one of Centrum Golf’s HD golf simulators. The realism is incredible. Added benefits include instant analysis and data to improve your game. First Warsaw Golf & Country Club ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf. com Found 25 kiometers from Warsaw, this 20,000 sq/m complex features a par 72, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, luxurious club house and a stunning environment replete with gliding swans and bouncing bunnies! The final hole, set on an island, attracts golfers from across Poland and beyond. Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19, www.golfparkspoland.pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional indi-

listings / health & beauty vidual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. Among other features are a chipping area, sand bunker, putting green, pitch and putt course and mini-golf.

a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

Sobienie Królewskie Golf & Country Club ul. Sobienie Szlacheckie 6 (Sobienie Jeziory), sobieniekrolewskie.pl Set around a 19th century manor house / hotel, the Sobienie golf course was designed by the British Ford Golf Course Design Group and touts 18 holes spread across a highly scenic course approximately 40 kilometers from central Warsaw. Tennis, spa and horse riding facilities also available.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars. Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning. Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct. Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced. Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons. DentaLux ul. Racławicka 31 & Puławska 257, tel. 22 787 878, dentalux.pl Englishspeaking service available, as well as 24hr emergency consultations. EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul. Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment. English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district. Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www.wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.

spas & salons

0 Bali Spa ul. Nowy Świat 22, bali-spa.pl Let the Balinese therapists pamper you with authentic Balinese and Thai massages, full body rituals, facials, hot stone treatments, etc. inside sensual interiors filled with the mystical spirit of the East. Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products. The Hermit Barber Shop pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience. Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:0014:00, www.repechage.net.pl A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatments for the whole body. La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one! Nail & Beauty Bar ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

ouch!

NEW Spas & Salons

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch! ul. Belwederska 32, 22 240 87 67; ul. Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 12, ouch.pl Experts in waxing, Ouch! Aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. High quality waxes, including fast and accurate epilation treatments whose effects last up to four weeks. Wax treatments for the whole body.

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 62 90; Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 10; ul. Mokotowska 56, tel. 22 298 10 10, pardonmyfrench.pl Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! Free wifi and coffee, as well as the possibility of hosting baby showers and bachelorette parties. Open from 9-8 during the week and 9-5 on Sat (with the

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Mokotowska branch also welcoming visitors on Sunday from 10-4). Rostowski Barber Shop ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles. Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers. Sante ul. Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. As you stare at the mantra above the mind lets go and you feel almost as if your body is moving. Amazing.

really fly?? Find out inside a vertical wind tunnel where fans whirring at a speed of up to 310 km/hr will send you shooting up in the air. Frogs & Co. warsawfrogs.com While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side. Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl So named due to its previous incarnation as a place where aeroplanes sleep, Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook for further details.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

Hobby Kicker Join the expat football team that meets each week (and sometimes more) on the 3G pitches at Centrum Futbolu Warszawianka (ul. Merliniego 2). All nationalities and levels of skills welcome. Search for Hobby Kicker – Warsaw on Facebook for details.

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

Sinnet Club ul. Gołkowska 2, tel. 22 550 3400, www. sinnet.pl An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities.

sport

Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), tel. 22 499 6466, squashcity.pl Considered one of the top squash clubs in the country, Squash City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc.

BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly. Fly Spot Wspólna Droga 1 (Mory), flyspot.com Ever wanted to know what it’s like to fly? As in

Warsaw Cricket Club ul. Romatyczna 3 (Panorama Country Club), warsawcricketclub.pl The oldest cricket club in the country is mainly comprised of Brits, Poles and South Asians. New members and supporters are welcomed – for details check their website.

in the city

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl

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car rental Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

useful numbers

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

Foreign Assistance Tel. 608 599 999 / 22 278 7777 Information in English, German and Russian available from June 1st to September 30th from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week.

Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011,

Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl

Tourist Information ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (airport), Rynek Starego Miasto 19/21/21A, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. 22 194 31, warsawtour.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200,

DISCOVER IN WARSAW THE EUROPEAN MUSEUM OF THE YEAR 2016

POLIN MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF POLISH JEWS 6 ANIELEWICZA ST., WARSAW, WWW.POLIN.PL

listings / in the city www.corstjens.com DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com

services Domestina domestina.pl New to Warsaw, Domestina offer four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142. Offering full premium service, they’ll make your bed to match the standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till your flat is spotless! Order and pay online via their English-language website. Legal Agent legalagent.pl, tel. 602 404 044 Trusted local advisors and international consultants specializing in every aspect of the property market. Offers advisory, analysis and legal support services with ex-pats in mind.

storage Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.).

Wiecej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, www.wiecejmiejsca.pl A new storage service that will even go so far as to pick up your items for you and transporting them to their guarded warehouse. They’ll also the supply the storage bins which typically fit 90 books, 100 t-shirts, 25 jumpers. Larger items like bikes, suitcases can also be left with them.

polish for foreigners

Cup of Polish cupofpolish.com, tel. 508 700 508 Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com

community Anglican Church in Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 62, tel. 880 580 628, anglicanchurch.pl English language services follow the order of the services of the Anglican Communion and are conducted by Rev. David Brown. Services are held each Sunday at 10:30 and 16:00. InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town. International Women’s Group of Warsaw iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

Get 12 issues for the price of 6 (60 zł) WARSAWPASS & CHOPINPASS Valid for 24, 48 and 72-hour periods, the Warsaw Pass enables holders to hop on and off a bus ploughing the main tourist routes, as well as free entry (and the ability to ‘skip the line’) to numerous attractions including Polin, the PKiN viewing platform, Royal Castle, Copernicus Science Centre and many more besides. Discounts for tours and restaurants are also part of the package. For full details, see: warsawpass.com

SUBSCRIBE AND SAVE! Email: insider@warsawinsider.pl

108 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2016

Also, be sure to pick up the ChopinPASS, a package that includes admission to the Chopin Museum and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions. For details, see: ChopinPass.com

listings / in the city tion. For further details, see their website.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

museums Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

Taste of the Classics www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine. Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00. Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduc-

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The

museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented. The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. Don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

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Stadion Narodowy

1 6

3 2

Chodk iewicza

Biały K amień

Żaryna

Kulskiego

RESTAURANT &

VODKA

AT E L I E R

LOOKING BACK

Summer Of Love

uro 2016: with the tournament barely over its halfway hump at press time, it’d be both bold and foolish to cast a judgement on its success. Regardless, I already know what I’ll be remembering the competition for: unsavory football politics, hooliganism and an atrocious quasi-techno theme ditty. All have cast a grim shadow over anything on the pitch. Contrast that to Euro 2012, a competition that will live long in the memory for all those in Poland. Deep down, I never thought 2012 would be such a triumph. Much like the rest of the planet, I met the decision to stage the championships in Poland with perplexed disbelief: with neither the stadiums nor the infrastructure in place, it seemed implausible that all would be conjured in time for the kick-off. When news leaked that the government were discussing a motion to put 20,000 prisoners to work on related construction projects, it seemed to speak of improvised solutions and measures of blind panic. Fortunately, the jailbirds were kept where they belong and the stadiums delivered – albeit with not much to spare. Yet the sense that Poland (and co-hosts Ukraine) had bitten off more than they could chew remained. Doubts persisted right up until the last moment, stoked by lurid reports in the foreign media about the savagery that awaited visitors. Even Britain’s award-winning Panorama program fell foul of the sensationalism, rolling out ex-footballer Sol Campbell to warn traveling fans they’d be ‘returning in coffins’. Yes, there was violence, but that was largely contained

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around one poisonous fixture: Poland v Russia. Those of us present when it all went RARGH will remember an apocalyptic day of bloodlust and tear gas. Even so, it was chalked off as a momentary blip. “The hospitals reported six people ended up in hospital,” excused spokesman Krzysztof Pohorecki, “but you’ve got to understand, a regular Polish wedding ends up with the same!” For the rest of the time, Poland seemed in full-on party mode. Based in Poznań and Gdańsk, it was the Irish who led the carnage, with their good humor, vociferous support and epic drinking capabilities winning them plaudits all round. That’s not to say Warsaw missed the boat. It was the Fan Zone, with its cauldrons of festering bigos and plastic pints of lager, that will be the abiding recollection. Attracting one million punters over the duration of the tournament, at times the wall of noise threatened to blow the roof off the heavens. This was never truer than when Polish skipper Jakub Błaszczykowski powered in a screamer to equalize against Russia: madness ensued. For much of the time mind, the football felt incidental. Poland crashed out in the group stages, though this didn’t dampen the spirits – gripped in a blazing heatwave, the nation simply partied on; Polish hospitality, hitherto mostly unrecognized beyond these borders, became common knowledge. Poland, even for just a month, felt like it had come together. Previously, as a long-term resident, I’d seen that only for the death of Pope John Paul II and the aftermath of the Smolensk disaster. Now, the country united not in grief, but in joy – that will never be forgotten.

PHOTOGRAPH WIKICOMMONS

The Insider looks back to the greatest summer in living local memory: Euro 2012…