• Green Warsaw • Artist Dawid Majgat • Beer Festival • Spotlight: ul. Andersa
Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996
SEPTEMBER 2017
253 09/2017
INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723
#
zł.10
(VAT 8% included)
ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ELIE SAAB FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR LORO PIANA MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK ONETEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON
tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com
editorial INFRONT
Editor-in-chief Alex Webber
4 Take a Number 6 News 10 Interview:
insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl
Dawid Majgat
Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com
FEATURES
16 Green Warsaw 20 Take a Street:
Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight
Andersa
PARTNER SPOTLIGHT
Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com
EAT!
35 Poké 36 Hala Koszyki 38 Food Delivery
DRINK!
73 Maryensztadt
Craft Beer & Food
74 Beer Festival
DO!
G
iven the number of new expats that traditionally land in Warsaw round about now, the easy option would be to begin with a wide, smiley welcome. The thing is though, welcome just doesn’t cut it. A cheap, hollow and over-used sentiment, it does nothing to prepare the newbies for what lies ahead. So instead, allow me begin with a warning: abandon all hope, for nothing will ever be the same again. I mean that not to be ominous, I mean that to be concordant with facts. You see, Warsaw has a habit of hooking people under its spell, of leaving them hopelessly addicted to its dark, undefined magic. If it lacks the surface beauty of neighboring capitals, it makes up for that with its energy, spirit and vast potential. Though these traits aren’t always immediately obvious, it doesn’t take long for them to burrow into your soul. Before you know it, you’ve fallen in love... Enjoy Warsaw (and, I might as well say it... welcome).
89 Stacja Grawitacja 90 Miniature Park 92 Bródno Sculpture
Park 94 Calendar 108 Guide: Essentials 109 Guide: The Buzz 110 Map 112 Insider Finds
Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl
on the cover A view of the wild Wisla, one element that’s included in our ‘green guide to Warsaw’. See p. 16. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)
2
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Business Development Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Joanna Łysik jlysik@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69
VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2017 Warsaw Insider.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT
26 The latest
marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers
SEPTEMBER 2017
CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS
number take a
400 meters The length of the latest section of the new-look Wisła promenade to be opened to the public. In all, over 60 million złoty has been spent this year alone on reviving the left bank of the river. Speaking earlier in the year, city mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz declared the regeneration of the Wisła as an achievement to rank alongside the launch of the second metro line and the introduction of the Veturilo bike-share program. “This is one of the best promenades in Europe,” concluded the Mayor, “possibly even the world.” But this is not the end: next year will see another stretch unveiled, this time between Most Świętokrzyski and Cypla Czerniakowskiego.
500,000 złoty
13.5 million złoty
The cost of a new footbridge spanning the river. Tucked underneath Most Łazienkowska, the project consists of two separate footbridges running on either side: one for bike users and pedestrians, and the other specifically just for cyclists. A competition to find a suitable architectural design for a similar link running from ul. Karowa is also currently underway, with the eventual winning entry slated for completion in 2019.
4
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
The amount donated by the Tiger drinks brand to a veterans association after an online ad capmpaign backfired. Tiger found themselves at the center of a PR storm after an ad appeared on the anniversary of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising depicting an obscene hand gesture along with a slogan urging people to essentially forget the past and instead look to what’s important: the future! Tiger have since issued a sniveling apology and fired their ad agency.
RICO’S CONCEPT is situated in a famous tenement house called the ‘Messal Baths’. The name stems from Lucyna Messal, a famous opera singer, dancer and actress from the 1920s. An incredible atmosphere is guaranteed thanks to an interior filled with meticulous old details. Most important of all, however, is our seasonal cuisine which is based on the highest quality produce.
Our secret is experience, passion and innovation...
Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18
Tel: 22 515 8405
News Briefs CHOP CHOP
Polish environmentalists have been left counting the cost after storms ripped through the country at the beginning of August. “This is undoubtedly the largest disaster in the history of Poland’s forestry, and I suspect, also in European forestry,” said Konrad Tomaszewski, the head of the national forestry authority. Covering approximately 50,000 hectares, it’s estimated that the effected area will take over a century to recover. The news, however, is just another blow for domestic ecologists: despite an EU injunction forbidding such, Environment Minister Jan Szyszko has insisted that logging will continue in the UNESCO-listed Białowieża Forest.
The Final Countdown! Warsaw’s foodies have been placed on red alert with news of the
imminent launch of Hala Gwardii. Set to open in late September, highlights include 20 food points arranged around a central, communal dining area. Inspired by similar ventures in Lisbon and Marseilles, a farmers’ market is set to occupy one flank of this historic hall. Tenderly restored with its heritage in mind, hopes are high that Gwardii will become one of the city’s gastronomic calling cards. For up-to-date info on their debut, see: halagwardii.pl
6
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
FROM TOP: SHUTTERSTOCK, PRESS MATERIAL (2)
DARK FUTURE
A Polish gaming firm has won international acclaim for Observer, a cyberpunk / horror set in Kraków, 2084. Outlining a shudderingly sinister vision of the future, Bloober Team recruited actor Rutger Hauer to provide the voice of the game’s protagonist, detective Daniel Lazarski. Released in August, so far the feedback has surpassed all expectations: “an excellent title,” gush Mic Magazine, before concluding, “it’s accessible, well-made, and one of the best games this year.”
Architecture News
TALK OF THE TOWN
The last month brought with it news of the spectacular redevelopment of the Soho Factory, as well as cause for cheer for fans of Polonia Warszawa...
GROUNDS FOR OPTIMISM
The long-suffering fans of Polonia Warszawa have had little to celebrate the last few seasons, though that could yet change with news that their ramshackle stadium is set for a swank overhaul. Set to cost approximately zł. 57 million, the five-year revamp will involve the construction of two 2,000-seater stands at each end of the ground, as well as comprehensive work on the Kamienna – the spiritual home of Polonia’s livelier supporters. The remodeled stand will have a capacity of 3,500 and feature state-of-the-art gym and athletics facilities underneath. Completion is set for 2022.
SOHO OF THE FUTURE
Update The Czarny Kot hotel has had a stay of execution after a tender for its demolition was annulled following the discovery of a legal discrepancy. The hotel, much of which was constructed illegally, has long been considered one of city’s biggest eyesores, not to mention a shameless example of the ‘Gargamel’ architectural style. 8
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
PRESS MATERIAL
Plans for a major redevelopment of Kamionek’s Soho Factory have been made public, with the architectural renderings visualizing the creation of new office, residential and leisure facilities around a ‘heritage zone’ of former factory buildings. Structures such as the cult Neon Museum will be retained as part of this historical core and complimented by the addition of green zones, shared spaces, pedestrianized alleys and relaxation areas. The target, say the architects, is to create a fully-fledged socially sustainable urban space that would attract visitors from across the city.
Interview
Some Kind of Monster?
Warsaw-based artist Dawid Majgat talks about Republic ¥, a preposterous, self-invented parallel world inhabited by monsters and other creatures of his imagination...
THE ARTIST’S STATEMENT “The concept of Republic ¥ envisions a colonial state in which the citizens are monsters. This absurd world acts as a sandbox, giving the freedom of working in many different medias such as painting, illustration, design, sculpture, animation, film, gaming and literature. Working in the realm of this mysterious country, I look to comment on the surrounding world by showing it in the distorted mirror of my art. By creating the culture and art history of this imaginary land I am able to freely comment on and relate to everyday issues, popular culture, traditions, history, politics and eternal values, whilst also being able to reinvent and discuss the structures and mechanisms that steer our world. Following the notion that every man has his inner monsters, the concept that binds the whole project together is monst-art aesthetics and the colonial state.”
10
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Interview What were the beginnings of Republic ¥? First came the monsters. I used to draw them randomly all the time in my sketchbook but had no idea what do with them or how to take them further. Then, during my Food is Good exhibition, I got the name Republic ¥ in my head. From that moment I knew that if I could just create an artist’s statement I could join the two together and then use them how I wanted. Basically, the monsters are my identification key; they’re the bricks of Republic ¥ and with them I can build what I want.
Dawid’s work is currently on display in Pies Czy Suka and Między Nami.
12
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
What’s the significance of ¥? First, it alludes to Generation Y, which is the generation I’m part of – the first generation to grow up with computers
everywhere, but the last generation to grow up without an iPhone in their cradle. Then, there’s the similarity to the Chinese Yuan symbol, a currency that’s trying to overthrow the dollar. Finally, I think Y asks a lot of questions which is how I want people to react to my art. I don’t want to say black is black or white is white. I want people to interpret my art in whatever way they wish. Do you have any favorite monsters? I love all my babies, even the ugly ones. Sometimes I feel I use some characters a little too often, but I prefer to use monsters that have individual characters rather than ones that just make up the masses. In all, there’s probably around 100 with such characters, of which
Ul. Pańska 85 tel. 512 671 756, 22 253 30 30 panska85.com.pl
Interview
Above:“Ab Or¥ente Lux” from Classic ¥ series, Rudnica, Poland, 2017 Below: “K¥nk #1” from Supreme ¥ series, Warsaw, Poland, 2017
I probably use about 20 regularly. Though some are fictional, others are based in reality: for example, I had a Cocker Spaniel that died. She’s a little like Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady With An Ermine and has appeared in my work: by using her that way, I’ve kept her alive. What other crossovers has your work had with reality? I’ve got a close friend whose always late for everything. Anyway, one time he was running late to catch a plane to Spain and ended up having to ditch his luggage in an airport restaurant in order to make the final call. A week later he asked me to try and find it for him – he couldn’t even remember the name of the place he’d left his bags. It took
14
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
me ages, but I eventually found his bags. I was hugely annoyed with him, but I channeled that anger to create a poster for Republic ¥’s official airline, Primus: the most delayed airline in the world. What’s the future of Republic ¥. Will it ever crumble and be replaced by something else!? This project is full-time. It’s my life’s work. I view it almost as if it were an escape from my real country’s issues – an insulation from the problems of Poland. Certainly, I want to develop the idea further and design products related to it, and even open a factory producing Republic ¥ goods. Does Warsaw inspire you? Of course it does. I grew
For more on the artist and his work, visit: majgat.com
up in Gorzów Wielkopolski, which essentially was a German city repopulated after the war by Poles from the East. Living there felt like being in a rootless mind-trap, one that I felt I had to escape. Warsaw couldn’t be more different. Every wall has a history: the bullet holes, the Socialist Realist buildings, the wild 90s architecture, the buildings that came from messy capitalism or those that speak of a new world order. Warsaw is a city of movement and noise, and seeing that gives me energy. Here, I’ve felt like I’ve had my roots returned. I’ve utilized all these feelings to build Republic ¥. Was there a key moment when you decided to pursue life as an artist? Finishing art school most students are left with a choice of choosing life as an artist or moving into graphic design. I faced the same choice but, having sold a few works, I decided to take the risk and develop my art career. How important was the formal education? It’s absolutely not necessary if you want to become an artist, however, I found it very useful. Art academies are quite conservative and they will teach their own philosophy. Not only did that give me a straight line of concentration to follow, it also gave me something to rebel against as well. My Gold’n’Fish series shows my dialogue with History of Art; it’s my way of healing myself. How do you fit into the artistic life of Warsaw?
It’s a big city so art here has many faces. You’ve got the ‘official art’, then ‘underdog art’ which is where I belong. I’ve never exhibited in a white cube gallery and the thought doesn’t really interest me. I like spaces that expose
my art to completely random people, such as bars, cafes, walls, etc. I don’t want to be an artist for people who are only interested in gallery life, I want to be an artist that’s seen by everyone. That’s why I love crowded places.
(Above) “S¥am #1” from Supreme ¥ series, Szczecin, Poland, 2017
warsawinsider.pl
15
The Greener Side of A Global Leader?
Those thinking that the local diet consists of meat and stodge are in for an almighty awakening. Of all the global food trends to have hit Warsaw, none have been grasped quite as keenly as veganism: in fact, such have been the inroads made by plant-based cuisine that Happy Cow – the world’s most influential vegan website – have declared the Polish capital to be the planet’s fastest growing vegan city.
Top of the Town
Warsaw’s most surprising burst of greenery finds itself atop of the University Library on ul. Dobra 56/66. “One of the largest and most beautiful rooftop gardens in Europe,” proclaims the tourist board, and we’ve yet to find a reason to disagree. Connected by a series of sloping pathways and iron bridges, the route takes visitors through a spellbinding backdrop of exotic vegetation and flowering shrubbery. Visit in the evening to enjoy the breathtaking crimson sunsets that settle over the Wisła.
16
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Walk On The Wild Side
Though since debunked as an urban myth, one popular story claims that at the start of the millennium a foreign delegation was left awestruck by the wild nature of the Wisła’s right bank. “How many millions,” they’re said to have asked the bewildered mayor, “did you spend to get that look?” While plainly and purely apocryphal, the anecdote reveals much about the dense, natural paradise that this side of the river has become. Largely untouched by modern day incursions, it’s a flourishing haven of unexpected wildlife.
WARSAW
September doesn’t just mean back to work / school / reality, it also means a new intake of expats taking their first baby steps in the city. So, for the benefit of the greenhorns and rookies, we take a closer look at Warsaw’s greener side...
A Modern Icon
Unveiled amid much controversy in 2002 (“what the hell is that!?” screamed the locals), the palm tree installation on Rondo De Gaulle’a is now largely credited with kick-starting the city’s fascination with public art. Titled Greetings From Jerusalem (in honor of Warsaw’s ‘vanished’ Jewish community), Joanna Rajkowska’s work has since become embedded in local hearts, to the extent that this once divisive installation is now considered one of the defining icons of the city.
On The Right Track
Though heavily criticized for their inaction during the city’s recent (in fact, ongoing) smog crisis, local authorities have demonstrated they’re not completely ignorant of the environmental challenges facing the town. In a bid to slash noise pollution levels, Warsaw has embarked on a costly program of installing turf between tramlines. Not only has this resulted in quieter streets, it’s also seen swathes of the city transform from grim to green.
warsawinsider.pl
17
FEATURE GREENER SIDE OF WARSAW
Great Escapes
Take a moment to speak to a local and it won’t be long till they’re confessing all about their działka – a second home, usually a pimped-up shed (though quite often much more), to which they retreat at the weekends for bonding and barbecues. Set inside colorful allotments bursting with greenery and plant-life, find hundreds of these inside Warsaw itself. Probably the most famous assembly of such units is found just south of Pole Mokotowskie: they’re the fairy tale secret of this big, bad city.
Towering Above
Warsaw finds itself in the midst of a full-on growth spurt: adding to the tally of steel and glass spires, the 310-meter Varso Tower is set to become the EU’s tallest building when it’s completed in 2020. However, the capital’s obsession with height goes back way before the post-communist era. Among the first ‘Western-standard’ skyscrapers was Intraco I, a ghastly green giant that still looms over Muranów. Built by Swedish contractors, rumors persist that the top floor is home to a terrifying fabric escape chute.
More Than Green Fingers
Whether it’s through oxidization or other complex chemical processes, a number of Warsaw’s statues find themselves going green with patina. Without doubt, the monument honoring Chopin – the city’s musical mascot – is the most high profile: visit it in summer when free piano concerts are held under the composer’s fixed gaze. Lesser known, check the mint green Supreme Court on the edge of New Town: it’s here life-sized female statues symbolizing the virtues of faith, hope and love support elements of the building. Then, right outside, find a dramatic installation commemorating the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Bathed in green light come darkness, it’s a striking tribute to the 63-day bloodbath that came to define the indefatigable spirit of Warsaw.
18
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
The Tree of Life
Green? Blue? Does it even matter? Swanski’s 2011 mural at Nowolipki 11 was painted as part of the city’s ‘Year of Marie Curie’ celebrations. As such, his work touches on various themes loosely connected to science and the universe: fish and birds grow from a surreal ‘tree of life’, while in the center sits an atom. This mural is just one of dozens that have sprung up on the walls around town. Often carrying a complex message, these works of urban art are particularly prevalent around the districts of Muranów and Praga.
Foodie Fads
Perhaps the most important factor underpinning Warsaw’s food revolution has been the swing towards naturally grown local produce. Find everyone from the city’s top chefs and restaurateurs to the lowliest home cooks perusing the many farmers’ markets that have popped up as a result. Of the more high profile are the Bio Bazar, Forteca and Bazar Olkuska.
A Finnish Touch
Constructed in 1945 as emergency housing for architects given the task of rebuilding Warsaw, the Finnish Houses (so-called because they were built using materials acquired from Finland) have survived to this day. Sneaked behind the French Embassy, this collection of cute timber chalets line a series of tight treelined avenues that have repeatedly come under threat from greedy developers that sense money to be made. Despite the city center coordinates, walking around them feels like entering a lost world: the only sound you’ll hear will be birds twittering and wood stoves crackling.
warsawinsider.pl
19
FEATURE GREENER SIDE OF WARSAW
The Dreaded Ogórki
Definition 1: the pickled gherkins you find handed out with each celebratory tip of vodka. Overlook them at your peril, for these foul little buggers really do stave off any ensuing nasty consequences. Definition 2: the groovy-looking buses that once parped around the streets of socialist Warsaw. Though long retired, find them wheeled out on en masse on the occasion of the annual Night of the Museums. Held each May, it’s one of the cultural events that stitches the city together.
The Little Green Man
Often, the first question a visitor will ask is: “why the hell is no-one crossing the road?” Answer: because it’s a red light, moron. Seen as something of a hangover from the old days, waiting for the green man to light up on a pedestrian crossing is an essential part of living in Warsaw. Fail to respect him and you’ll either end up being swooped upon by a copper, or splattered into ketchup by a speeding driver.
Local Heroes
Considered the grand dame of Polish football, Legia Warszawa elicit the same intense jealousy that only the most successful capital city clubs enjoy. Having won it all in terms of domestic silverware, they have long been considered the dominant force on the home front: they’re the ones everyone wants to beat. No matter who the opponents are, the match day experience at Łazienkowska 3 is a thrilling experience. Never is the atmosphere more pronounced than before kick-off, a time when men, women and children rise as one to belt out the club anthem: Sen O Warszawie. It’s spine-tingling stuff that leaves your hair on end.
20
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
The Grass Is Greener
In the words of Kermit, it ain’t easy being green. But that hasn’t stopped an increasing number of architects from trying their best. Eco-friendly buildings have become all the rage, and while the sprawling Business Garden office complex in Mokotów is possibly the best example, few beat Art House Desa Unicum in terms of aesthetics: though still in its preparatory stages, when opened next year this grass-topped pavilion promises to become an attraction in itself.
Garden Quarter
Pretty Green
Within the confines of Stary Żoliborz you’ll find Żoliborz Oficerski, a garden community specifically designed in the interwar years for Poland’s military top brass. Yet as quaint as it feels, to truly enjoy the golden years of the inter-bellum take the short trip to Podkowa Leśna: Poland’s first ‘garden city’ was created using a radial template coined by the exotically named Ebenezer Howard. A bucolic haven in every sense, this verdant district is home to sumptuous gated villas and the enigmatic canis familiaris podkoviensis: a corgi-like creature that’s said to be unique to the area.
The sheer pomp of Warsaw’s imperial ancestry isn’t always easily discerned. However, Łazienki Park leaves visitors in no doubt about this city’s stately heritage. Once the summer residence of Poland’s last monarch, this park and palace complex is known for its architectural diversions and pristine gardens. Yet beyond these surface details, it’s the park’s proud, preening peacocks that everyone falls in love with.
warsawinsider.pl
21
TAKE A STEET ANDERSA
FERAJNA
BUZZ WORD Andersa
No more for locals only, Andersa has spawned a growing number of hip, happening ventures that have caused a buzz about town...
22
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
h
istory, at least in the last century, has not treated Muranów well. The site of Europe’s largest wartime ghetto, the German occupation saw the area leveled and the local Jewish population annihilated in the gas chambers of Treblinka; the void created by the Nazis wasn’t just physical, but spiritual as well. Rebuilt using a Socialist Realist template, the resultant housing estate that sprung up was typical of the Stalinist era: a vulgar, bombastic, concrete sprawl. Split by a wide boulevard and flanked by Orwellian housing blocks, nowhere was the dehumanizing nature of this style more apparent than ul. Andersa. Opened in 1950, the street was initially named ul. Nowotka in honor of Marceli Nowotko, a Polish communist whose 1942 murder remains unsolved to this day. Now renamed Andersa (after the wartime commander of the Polish Armed Forces in the East), it’s enjoyed an unlikely resurgence as a center of cool. Whilst a few years ago Andersa was dark, littered and coated in tribal football graffiti, today a flurry of millennial-run ventures have given it a bounce to its step...
R A D I O T E L E W I Z JA
RADIO TELEWIZJA ul. Andersa 29 Though their name suggests anything but, Radio Telewizja’s focus falls on the printed word. Specializing in small press, the collection here holds particular appeal to those interested in local art, architecture and contemporary history – and though Polish is the principal tongue, English-language books are also reasonably copious in their presence. Yet to really thrive, a good bookshop needs atmosphere. Radio Telewizja has that in spades. Featuring subtle 60s accents, it’s speckled with
FAT W H I T E
retro bits and pieces handed down the owner’s hereditary line, making it an easy place to browse while having a coffee and a chat. BAR GDAŃSKI ul. Andersa 33 Initially opened some time in the 1950s, Bar Gdański served the local community without interruption till earlier this year. Closed in spring, a brief but thorough refit conducted by the new owner has given this milk bar a late lease of life. Gone are the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death,
Fiercely intellectual, a busy program of events draws people from way beyond the natural catchment area
warsawinsider.pl
23
TAKE A STEET ANDERSA
R A D I O T E L E W I Z JA
replaced instead by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Bar Gdański feels like an essential part of the community: without it, Andersa would feel desolate. PAŃSTWO MIASTO ul. Andersa 29 Hectic from morning onwards, there are times that Państwo
24
Miasto could pass for an informal co-working space. Not put off by the screeching chairs and general racket, it swarms with freelancers and creative types needing coffee and wifi. Fiercely intellectual, a busy program of events (readings, screenings, workshops and discussions) draws people from way beyond the natural catchment area, while a fridge stocked with decent beers from Poland’s frontier breweries provides reason to linger longer. Negatives? An ongoing dispute / war with the upstairs neighbors mean no
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
smoking on the terrace and a strict curfew at ten. In fact, be warned: it’s not unknown for said neighbors to empty their own ashtrays on the drinkers below! CRAFT BEER MURANÓW ul. Andersa 23 Design-wise there are several fundamental flaws: forget the irritating acoustics, deadly stairwell (ouch - watch your head!), and low-budget interior, the primary problem is a bar that feels almost impossible to access on a busier night. So it’s not perfect, but then how many
bars are? In their favor are fab hot dogs, modest prices and a friendly crowd. Oh, and beer: 16 taps distributing drinks from the country’s renegade breweries. Suddenly, the faults become irrelevant. FERAJNA ul. Andersa 6 Complete with a red and white stripey pole outside, everything about this barber’s shop is cool and considered. Though larger than most of their competitors, the reason is clear cut: such is their popularity, they need all
PA Ń S T W O M I A S T O
B A R G DA Ń S K I
the space they can get. Hailed by many as the best male grooming experience in the city, get your hair and whiskers snipped and waxed by a dedicated team of tattooed experts. Appointments aren’t accepted, so pass any waiting time on the pinball and arcade machines. More than a barber’s shop, you get the idea that to their customers Ferajna have become a lifestyle choice. FAT WHITE ul. Andersa 6 Co-joined to Ferajna, find Fat White run by brothers Piotrek
CRAFT BEER MURANÓW
and Filip Głodek. Super small but perfectly packaged, features number coffee sourced from the acclaimed Kofi Brand and a pristine interior decorated with intriguing art that celebrates Muranów’s past. A personal chef by trade (that’s his Scooby Doo van parked outside), the sandwiches made by Filip are a thousand times superior to the standard coffee shop options. Though diminutive in its size, there’s something special going on here, something that’s good for Andersa and even better for you.
There’s something special going on here, something that’s good for Andersa and even better for you...
warsawinsider.pl
25
Sp Par ot tne lig r ht
Taste China
At Pańska 85 we’re delighted to invite diners to sample traditional Chinese cuisine cooked with a modern twist: from classic Beijing roast duck through to the fragrant cuisine of Sichuan and the traditional dishes of Xi’an. We’re also happy to organize private parties, events, conferences and exhibitions, and can also offer access to a meeting room, all-weather patio and summer garden. Restauracja Pańska 85 ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com.pl
NEWSFLASH! From the same team behind the Michelin-starred Senses comes Genesis, a contemporary restaurant set inside a space age building next to the Warsaw Spire. Plotted by chef Artur Grajber, the menu presents Mediterranean-style food with an Asian twist.
New This Month!
Now in our sixth year of business, Da Gusto has become a staple of Powiśle: a restaurant that’s celebrated across the district for its intimate atmosphere and authentic tastes. Most of all though, it’s our pizza that we’re famed for. Traditional in every respect, we offer a comprehensive range of pizzas cooked just how you’d expect in Italy itself. Visit us in September to enjoy our new, revamped menu! Da Gusto ul. Przemysłowa 31/33, dagusto.com.pl
26
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
A New Idol
Idolized one moment, forgotten the next, few streets encapsulate the boom and bust nature of Warsaw’s after dark scene better than Mazowiecka. Having represented the very pinnacle of the city’s social life for much of the Naughty Noughties, the last few years saw numerous pioneering venues fall between the cracks and consigned to oblivion. Could Mazowiecka recover, or would it become a desperate wasteland clasping sadly onto yesterday’s glories? That question has been answered by a string of high profile openings, each one doing their bit to attract a crowd that’s brighter and better than anything that came before. Yet nowhere is this more visible than at Fat Buddha. Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberrycolored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. From the end, a giant, glimmering Buddha smiles down on a crowd studded with supermodels-in-waiting. Drinks are a forte and the cocktails exquisite and sophisticated. Yet before the evening vamps up in earnest, the Fat Buddha lures in custom on account of its menu: Japanese in spirit, it pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and sticky beef skewers. There are, of course, other hits as well: the beef tataki, lightly seared and thinly sliced, are to be admired and applauded in equal measure. Next, soft shell crab tempura, a beautiful composition that’s so right for now. Neither do the mains disappoint: slow-cooked ribs fall off the bone, while the lamb chops are all that they should be: dainty but with that correct note of meaty oomph – all of a sudden, it’s not just the Buddha that’s smiling... Fat Buddha ul. Mazowiecka 2/4, fatbuddha.pl
warsawinsider.pl
27
Sp Par ot tne lig r ht
What A Pair
To fully enjoy the lauded cuisine of our French chef Erwan Debono, visit after 6 p.m. to bask in the thrilling flavors of our Pairing Menu. With the lights dimmed down, find a customized menu that’s been expertly designed to fully maximize the tastes of the food and the cocktails that accompany them. Of course, we also offer an extensive choice of wine and champagne to accompany you on your epicurean journey of discovery... Bez Tytułu ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com
NEWSFLASH! For Warsaw’s best and biggest selection of Georgian wine, visit Wine Bar Rusiko Al. Ujazdowskie 22. Set next door to the award-winning Rusiko restaurant, the new venture combines the owner’s passion for both wine and rugs.
We Are All Made of Stars
Sirѐne was born out of a passion for beauty, stars and the universe in general. This passion is demonstrated by the use of the highest quality materials, space technology, and our dedication to quality and attention to detail. Metal elements are coated with titanium and selected models are additionally gold-plated or silver-plated, while the use of Italian Mazzucchelli acetate honors the best optical traditions. The whole production process takes place in Europe, and all of our glasses are hand-crafted. Our Sirene Cassini collection is a bold combination of metal details and the highest quality Italian Mazzucchelli acetate giving the collection a unique, but also chic and subtle charm. Sirѐne sireneeyewear.com (available at these locations: Acephala (only sunglasses) Al. 3 Maja 14, Kōgaku ul. Bednarska 20A, OKKO Salon Optyczny Grójecka 40A/41, Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40)
28
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Sp Par ot tne lig r ht
30
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
The Chop Shop For over two decades Befstzyk have operated as the city’s best-known butcher’s; now, we’re delighted to bring you news of our new store in Żoliborz.
D
o you find yourself in Poland craving an aged steak, just like the one you always used to buy from your local butcher? Are you planning a traditional dish and need fresh lamb or a turkey of a certain size? Now, you don’t need to catch a plane home. Warsaw’s BEFSZTYK stores have everything you need, prepared by the butcher of your choice. Our Mokotów shop on ul. Puławska 176/178 was established by the oldest generation of the Prokopowicz family in 1994. Last year, our children opened a new shop in Żoliborz Artystyczny, on ul. Dygata 3, inspired by the ‘Pick a bite’ formula. Beyond just shopping, customers can choose whatever they like from the counter and our cook will grill it for you. Our customers include many foreigners which is one of the reasons we ensure that our staff can speak English. Another is the fact that the owners travel extensively around Europe, forging business contacts with small producers around
the continent and bringing back foreign specialities to Poland. We also offer a broad assortment of prime Polish cold cuts and home-made charcuterie products. You can treat your friends to excellent grill-ready meats or order a cold cut platter for a party. Apart from visiting us at one of our stores, you can also order from www. befsztyk.pl, the only online butchery in Poland. Our shops are run by passionate gourmands, the Prokopowicz family. Our goal, apart from selling highquality products, is educating our clients about meat. Our customers include: mothers of toddlers who seek natural, ecological products, prominent chefs, kindergartens, embassies, restaurants, numerous burger shops, food bloggers and countless celebrities. The “Warsaw Insider” promo code entitles you to a 5% discount at our Żoliborz shop. warsawinsider.pl
31
Sp Par ot tne lig r ht
The One To Watch Considered one of the top
rising talents in the country, chef Arkadiusz Wilamowski spent seven years working in the three-star kitchens of Paris and London. Now back in Poland, his new restaurant has won rave reviews for its accurate replication of French fine dining...
What were your early days in France like? I turned up to France thinking I knew everything, but after a week in the kitchen I looked in the mirror and thought, oh my God, I don’t know a thing. Out there, everything in the kitchen commands respect; even if you’re just chopping vegetables, the level of detail that’s required is amazing. French cuisine is the finest in the world, and it’s no coincidence that every good chef uses French techniques as their base. It sounds like you found yourself on a steep learning curve... When I started out in France I couldn’t even speak the language: just things like ‘thank you’, or, ‘one baguette, please’. Within six months I was fluent. Each and every kitchen I worked in, I was having to learn from scratch, how to do something in precisely the manner the chef wanted. I remember one time I changed a recipe to save on time – the chef was furious but I admitted my mistake and then explained my actions. After the service finished he promoted me! How come you returned to Poland?
32
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Two reasons: first, my wife was due to have a baby. As a Pole, I wanted a Polish baby. Secondly, I’m an owner here. Starting my own restaurant in France wasn’t financially viable. Chefs aspire to own their own restaurant, so now I’m genuinely living the dream. I can do exactly what I want here. What are the challenges you’ve faced with Chłodna 15? Firstly, creating the place: finding the right chairs, meeting the guys doing the tables. It took five or six meetings just to decide on the porcelain. It took three months to organize the reception, the front of house, back of house, etc. Now, at last I can cook. I can do my job. Of course, that doesn’t mean it’s easy. Everyday is a new battle with the suppliers. Everyday I have to return produce that isn’t good enough. As a chef you need to maintain the same high standards day after day but finding produce that is of a consistent high quality is a problem. The first order always goes well, but from there it’s always downhill. I won’t cook with ingredients that I feel aren’t perfect, so I have to always be looking to chop and change. Dealing with suppliers is definitely the biggest ongoing challenge.
Is that the principal difference between working here and there? In France you know you’ll be getting good ingredients everyday, but that’s just not the same here. Suppliers need to recognize that chefs and restaurateurs need this consistency. A lot of things need to change, even the customers. We’ve got some great restaurants now in Warsaw, but there’s still too many people here who just want something that’s cheap and big. But these are early days and we’re getting there: the revolution is only beginning. Explain your fixation with French cuisine... I simply prefer it to Polish cuisine. Polish cuisine lacks its own techniques and traditions. Even going back to baroque times you’ll find that the Polish monarchs employed French chefs. You seem driven by detail? I want to be part of the best of the best. That means I can’t stand still. I won’t cook a carrot next year the way I do now. You need to be thinking ahead and imagining the future. It’s about thinking long term. Every sauce here takes at least a day to make. I don’t want plates to look the same each day and neither do I use frozen produce – so yes, I’m always thinking of the future and how to progress. In this job, that requires an intense level of organization. Why do French restaurants remain a rarity in Warsaw? Most people think of French cuisine as exclusive and expensive – they have that image forged in their mind. Also, most Polish chefs just don’t have the knowledge and experience to execute it properly: to be able to cook French cuisine you need to learn from a French chef. You need to learn from people working at the very highest level: as it is, I’m the only Polish chef in history to have worked under Alain Ducasse. How do you see the future? Ask an athlete what they dream of and they’ll say of appearing at the Olympics. They want to be with the best. It’s a similar way of thinking if you’re a chef – you aim for Michelin recognition, so of course that’s my dream. I spent seven years working in Michelin-starred restaurants, and I’ve seen what I need: time. It might take one year, it might take five years, but my target is a star. Sure, some people say that I sound self-confident, but I know what I’m capable of achieving. What’s your message to those that have yet to visit? Don’t form an opinion without seeing what we’re about. Come here, see for yourself. I want people to learn what genuine French cuisine is. I am obsessed with doing my best, and I’m obsessed with the kitchen – I wake up in the middle of the night thinking about what I can change or how I can do something differently. I want to communicate this obsession. Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski ul. Chłodna 15, chlodna15.pl
warsawinsider.pl
33
Sp Par ot tne lig r ht India Express at Sienna 87
Start your day with a deliciously exotic Indian breakfast! Visit our latest branch to enjoy modern Indian breakfast, lunch or dinner. If you can’t come to us, then we’ll come to you: our home delivery service guarantees you can enjoy fresh and tasty Indian food wherever you are in Warsaw. India Express ul. Sienna 87 Mon to Fri 8 a.m. - 10 p.m. Sat to Sun 9 a.m. - 10 p.m. online orders: indiaexpress.pl
34
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Now Serving Indian Breakfast
EAT!
PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA
POKE THROUGH
The foodie world’s word of the moment? Poke. Declared this year’s ‘must-have snack’ by the The Guardian, poke’s popularity has fanned across the map to become one of the most exciting food fads of recent times. Polynesian by birth, this raw fish salad comes served on a bed of rice and then topped with the sauce of your choice: lemon, teriyaki, and ginger among others. While Warsaw has experienced the pleasures of poke before, here’s the first restaurant that’s dedicated to it: find it at the bottom of one of the Hogwarts-style turrets that support Most Poniatowskiego. Poké ul. Kruczkowskiego 15B
warsawinsider.pl
35
Eat! Review
WA R S Z AW S K I S E N
THE BEST OF KOSZYKI AROMAT Over 25 years spent in France have given this mother and son team something that Warsaw’s other artisan bakers lack: experience and knowledge. The pastries are exceptional. S O B R E M E S A TA PA S B A R
When it opened last autumn Hala Koszyki caused tremors that ripped through the capital: like nothing the city had seen before, this upscale food hall became the dominant topic among the city’s aspirational class. Nirvana for the Instagram generation, heavy surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of contemporary Warsaw. Brimming with eateries – most casual, some not – it’s much-hyped launch saw Koszyki immediately installed as the bull’s eye on the city’s social scene. Ten months on, the commotion has shown no signs of fizzing down. While it’s not quite to everyone’s taste (critics claim it misses the chance to truly represent Poland’s grass roots food revolution), there is little argument that no other social gathering point in the city (nay, the country!) feels quite so global and cosmopolitan...
36
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
CENTRAL BAR Koszyki’s anchor piece is a lengthy bar staffed by keen personnel. Running through the very heart of the hall, peak hours provide infinite people watching possibilities. CORONA SOK I MUS Health nuts appreciate Corona, a tiny unit special-
W E R A N DA
CORONA SOK I MUS
izing in providing ‘juice therapy’. Check the level of antioxidants in your body straight after one of their elixirs. THE CRAZY BUTCHER Suppliers to many of the
Hala Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com
KIEŁBA W GĘBIE
GRINGO BAR
top restaurants in Warsaw, this acclaimed meatery has recognized it’s growing expat fan base by recruiting British butcher Lee Spence. GRINGO BAR Burritos and quesadillas benefit from what is arguably the city’s best selection of salsa. The heat levels aren’t as intense as they could be, but the tastes are sensationally more-ish. KAGO SUSHI Though some staff could do with a training course in hospitality, the chefs don’t put a foot wrong. The sushi here is fresh and consistently faultless. KIEŁBA W GĘBIE Majoring in Polish grill food,
A R O M AT
extra points go to Koszyki’s best selection of beer: forego boring Bierhalle, instead check out Kiełba’s rotating selection of Polski craft beers. SOBREMESA TAPAS BAR Sobremesa cover the bases well, though the real clincher is an atmosphere that invariably leads guests
to order one bottle after another. The outdoor terrace is one of Koszyki’s key selling points. WARSZAWSKI SEN Despite its ample size Warszawski Sen impresses on account of a sci-fi interior and a menu far more sophisticated than
Koszyki’s other food points. Look good: it’s a place in which to see and be seen. WERANDA As unlikely as it sounds, lettuce is the big deal in Weranda. Find beautifully composed salads presented inside carefully constructed layers of lettuce. warsawinsider.pl
37
STAND & DELIVER
With more households than ever ordering food to be delivered, the race is hotting up to be fastest and the best...
38
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA
Eat! Delivery Services
Eat! Delivery Services ROOM SERVICE Serving Warsaw for 15-years, Room Service are the benchmark that others aspire to emulate. Representing 70 plus restaurants, highlights include Mexican food from Dos Tacos, sushi from Izumi and Lebanese dishes from Le Cedre. Good quality packaging, fluent English telephone operators and an easy-to-use website all stand in their favor, as does the sheer number of above-standard restaurants. On their part, Room Service promise to deliver your meal within 60 minutes of your order, a pledge we’ve yet to see them break. Minimum orders are set at zł. 50 with delivery charges ranging from zł. 15 to zł. 29. roomservice.pl ROYAL MENU Much like Room Service, the difference being a website that’s a touch trickier to navigate: rather than just having one master list of restaurants, customers instead click through sub-categories to search out the restaurant they’re after. Not all are winners, in fact, there’s many that excel at being just average. What’s good? Indian from Bombaj Masala, Yemeni via Sokotra, and outstanding sushi courtesy of Sakana. The minimum order is zł. 50 with delivery charges beginning at zł. 13 and rising to zł. 24. royalmenu.pl PIZZA PORTAL Pizza is the main event, though you’ll also find PP representing a large number of burger joints, curry houses and kebab stores. Minimum orders and delivery charges vary between restaurants and can occasionally go beyond acceptable levels. On top of that, the overall quality of the ‘restaurants’ isn’t all that great. Polish
only website, though even monoglots should be able to bumble through without too many mishaps. pizzaportal.pl PYSZNE Pyszne have a huge number of venues under their wing, of which many are complete and utter turkeys: 24hr pizza joints, late night kebab huts and other stuff you’d only usually touch after a long day drinking. A bright spot is provided by a particularly strong stable of Indian restaurants, among them Curry House, OM and India Express. Min orders and delivery charges vary between restaurants but are usually moderate. Irritatingly, the English option on the website stops at translating the important stuff: i.e. the actual dishes. pyszne.pl UBER EATS Launched in Warsaw earlier this year, Uber Eats operate from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. with venues ranging from McDonald’s and Bobby Burger to award-winning venues such as Youmiko Vegan Sushi, Ceviche Bar and Tapas Gastrobar. Plus points go to a standard zł. 7.99 delivery fee and service that will deliver to wherever it is you are: whether you’re at home, in a park or boozing by the river. ubereats.com DAILYVERY The game changer! Dailyvery proudly promise 30-minute delivery times courtesy of young, strapping couriers that rely on scooters and bikes. The choice of restaurants is varied and comprehensive and includes the Mexican Gringo Bar, New York pizza from Regina, Mango Vegan Street Food, and sensational Chinese tastes from Pańska85. daily.pl
THE RESTAURANT PERSPECTIVE
“Uber have changed everything,” says Jacek Kubicki of Urban Burritos. “You don’t have to call them, you don’t even need to give them a proper address – and because they’re so convenient we’re seeing more young people and expats ordering since they entered the market.” More orders though occasionally means more problems. “Customers want their food delivered quickly,” says Jacek, “but of course there are times when we’re left hanging around waiting for the courier.” Even if the delay is just five minutes, that’s five minutes too long. “We’re not going to send out food that we’re not happy with,” says Jacek, “so if a driver is running late then we’ll start the order again – regardless, customers will tend to blame the restaurant rather than the driver.”
warsawinsider.pl
39
EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 1020% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues. 2016 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2016 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining - Nolita Casual Dining - MOD Upscale Casual - Dyletanci & Rozbrat20 Modern Polish - Mała Polana Smaków
american 40 bakeries 40 balkan & russian 41 british 41 burgers & street food 41 chinese 42 fine dining 42 french 44 georgian 44 greek & turkish 45 hungarian 45 indian 45 indonesian 47 international 47 italian 53 japanese & sushi 55 jewish 56 korean 56 latin & spanish 57 mexican 58 middle eastern 59 polish 62 russian 66 scandinavian 66 seafood 66 specialty food shops 66 steak houses 68 thai 69 vegan 70 vietnamese 70
40
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
american
have been the big hit. Equally suited for after-work drinks, the cocktails are first class. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43
Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings.
bakeries
(C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu
Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat
Champions Sports Bar While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – with TVs positioned all over the place you won’t miss a kick. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always onpoint, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl
Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64
Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl
Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year. Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com
Koko & Roy How’s this for a makeover – what was formerly Bacio, a grotto-style den festooned with fairground trinkets, has reemerged as a smart eatery with a warm, pared-down design that’s ripe for modern times. American-owned, it’s a place that seeks to present a different side to US-cuisine: not the run-of-the-mill fare found in two-bob burger joints, rather homespun dishes cooked with elan. Thus far, the ‘odds & ends’ (fried pig ear, chicken hearts and sriracha aioli)
Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com
Qki QKI is the work of two sisters (in-law!) with a passion for the sweeter things in life. Shunning shortcuts and artificial nasties, cookies, cakes and pastries comprise the bulk of the offer here. ul. Topiel 19 & ul. Belgradzka 14, qki.waw.pl Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her
EAT! Listings skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl
balkan Ba Adriatico As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl
british Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl
burgers & street food Barn Burger Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet.
The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Beef’N’Roll If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll. Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl
STEAKHOUSE /BAR
Meat Warsaw This project sees a cosmic 1960s rotunda revived as a compact eatery whose brief menu is butch and brawny and comfortably familiar: Philly cheese steak served inside fresh pitta bread; Polish white sausage in a thick corn sauce; and boczek that’s soft in parts and crackly in others – lathered in a thick gloss of plum glaze, it’s a dish that sets off fireworks. (C4) Corner of ul. E. Plater / Świętokrzyska, fb.com/meatwarsaw
Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 SAS Duck & Chicken Although SAS Duck & Chicken feels reminiscent of the ‘hipster pop-up’ we first saw three or four years back, they’ve taken a tried and tested format and hit refresh. A small and simple space it might be, but this kitchen crew have won hearts and minds with an understandable menu that presents comfort food at its glorious best: BBQ hot wings, duck confit burgers, chicken skewers and turkey in a big, buttery brioche. These are simple pleasures refined for a picky palette. (D5) ul. Piękna 54, fb.com/sasduckandchicken Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food
Nowogrodzka 47a www.beefandpepper.pl reservation: (+48) 785 025 025 Open 7 days a week Monday-Saturday: 12.00-24.00 Sunday: 12.00-23.00
warsawinsider.pl
41
EAT! Listings ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl
chinese
Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General
42
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas. Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/ Reginabar Rico’s Concept Never let a name fool you. While Rico’s might sound more like a Mexican food truck, the reality presents a former bathhouse luxuriously decorated with hand-painted Majolica, swanky fittings and even a shimmery pool. The menu has won plaudits around town for its stunning authenticity. Full review next issue. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście16/18
fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this wedding white manor house is the epitome of luxury: plush, discreet, elegant and serene, it unwraps like the most beautiful of presents – a network of corridors and stairwells take guests through a series of rooms and side-chambers. Impossibly almost, the food measures up to the surrounds. For mains, the sea trout is spectacular, arriving alongside creamy
root parsley and fried cubed cucumbers. (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, but this is a restaurant that tops the foodie bucket list. (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl
Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl
EAT! Listings Chłodna 15 Unrecognizable from its previous incarnation, the restaurant wing of what was, until recently, La Maison, has undergone a considerable refurbishment to lend it more gravitas. The big change, however, is the food: the daily changing menu has been purposefully kept limited, allowing chef Arek Wilamowski’s crew to keep standards high. On our visit, that meant a sophisticated French duck pate in croute cake with raspberry jam and long pepper; and cod fillet a la Grenobloise. It’s already being talked about as a Michelin candidate. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15
largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appear-
ances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com
L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs. Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms! More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl N31 One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl
Nolita BEST WAWA 2016 “Fine Dining” The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees
We serve our passion and joy which you can savor with every bite. Reservation: +48 22 102 20 70, biuro@bazarkocha.pl
warsawinsider.pl
43
EAT! Listings Salto Fine dining gets a South American makeover thanks to Martin Gimenez Castro, an Argentinean who has emerged as one of the most influential chefs in Poland. While some critics grumble that Warsaw’s top end scene has flat-lined, Salto push the envelope in terms of breaking boundaries and probing new ground. Light, fresh and full of zing, the ceviche is a must, as is a delve around the Sunday steak menu. Desserts, meanwhile, are among the most inventive in town: a brilliant demonstration of Castro’s passion and personality, order the ‘Childhood / Irresponsible / Fantasy / Fun’ and you’ll understand what we mean. (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Senses Andrea Camastra’s Michelin-starred tasting menu is a succession of impossible highs and makes a big deal of scientific methods and culinary advances. Full of theater and unpredictable flourishes (billowing mists, imaginative presentation, edible cigars...), this restaurant is never short on dare and dazzle. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as
a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl
you’ll feel like you’re in a film – something weird by Aronofsky or Lynch. Seating is small and tight, set around glass-topped tables that favor form over function. But there’s a reasoning behind this which soon becomes apparent. No Comment is all about intimacy, about bending over platters for surreptitious slurps of New Zealand oysters. It’s about decadence, about clinking glasses and toasting the moment. Most of all, it’s about authentic French style. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, fb.com/nocommentwarszawa
french
georgian
Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000
Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3
No Comment Set inside one of those momentous towers that support Most Poniatowskiego, you don’t feel like you’re in a restaurant,
Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl
Uniqe selection of Georgian wines and spirits
tue. - fri. from 1500 to 2300 sat. - sun. from 1200 to 2400 address: al. Ujazdowkie 22 00-478 Warszawa email: winebar@rusiko.pl + 48 22 628 45 76
44
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Rusiko Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Live music lends the weekends a good-humored twist.
EAT! Listings Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl
greek & turkish Paros Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, paros-restauracja.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Taverna Patris This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl
hungarian U Madziara U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the
knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl
indian
Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw
WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL
Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Probably the best looking Indian restaurant in Warsaw. After a disappointing couple of years Bombaj have upped their game and made a sparkling return to form. Bland, oily dishes have been replaced with all the rich, intense tastes you’ve come to hope for. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl
Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 &ul. Towarowa 35, curry-house. pl
HOŻA 54
536 443 771
ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774
WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL
Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available
PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415 warsawinsider.pl
45
EAT! Listings for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-ofcurry.pl Maharaja That’s progress for you: where once you’d have found Maharaja on the top floor of a decaying socialist block, today you’ll find it on the ground floor of one of Warsaw’s most prestigious residential projects. It’s shrunk in size and it looks more like one of the faceless restaurant
units found in an out-of-town shopping centre, but the tastes are as true as ever. ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers),
Rewolucyjnej 9 / ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub. com or indiaexpress.pl
maharaja.waw.pl
Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town. Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl
Mandala Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. Their latest outpost – on ul. Sienna – offers Warsaw’s first Indian breakfast (full report soon). ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy
Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Om Indian restaurants are popping up like toast, which isn’t a problem for most ex-pats. Catering to the more budget end of the market, Om’s Nepalese chefs know their way around the kitchen. The chicken tikka masala is satisfying if nothing memorable, but the madras is something else: filled with sharp, punchy tastes that leave a lasting impression. While you get the idea it’ll never challenge the more established Indian restaurants in Warsaw, it’s the kind of place you’d be very happy to live next door to. (B4) ul. Sienna 86, omrestauracja.pl Rani Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a selfconfessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani.com.pl
46
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
EAT! Listings Tandoor After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl
indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green
beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34
international Aioli Once a gritty Stalinist leftover, Konstytucji has come a long way fast. A recent rush of bars and restaurants have aided the reintroduction of life to this concrete tundra, the most prominent of which being Aioli. Some might accuse it of being formulaic, but it’s clearly a formula that works: young and energetic, there’s a buzz here lasts long into the night. Food-wise, it’s a steady choice based around burgers, pizzas and other things that their age bracket appreciates. (D6) Pl.
Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season. Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. (F5) ul.
Traditional Polish cuisine • Live music • The best wine, regional beer and spirits • Grand Kredens • 20 years full of tradition
Share your opinion!
Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. +48 22 629 80 08. mob: +48 697 900 000, kredens@kredens@kredens.com.pl, www.kredens.com.pl
warsawinsider.pl
47
EAT! Listings Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember
for several months to come. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl The Bell Original in concept and flawless in its execution, The Bell is what Saska Kępa has been crying out for: somewhere stylish but not overtly fancy. Led by the brilliant Jan Piecuch, the kitchen turns out plenty of natural flavors with unexpected twists. The halibut in miso is a fish that flaps with the best: enjoy it in a back garden that cascades with greenery and plant life. (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, thebell.pl
Bez Tytułu A beautifully decorated restaurant on trendy Poznanska. The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is. Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef. (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl
A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…
WE WELCOME YOU
48
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Bułkę przez Bibułkę When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique
EAT! Listings version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. ul. Zgoda 3 & ul. Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl Casablanca Biały Kamień From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl Concept 13 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl The Cool Cat Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients. Small menu and a fashionable crowd, but an immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Dekant Wine Bar Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł. 79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding:
we fell in love with a passion fruit semifreddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant. com.pl Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Dyletanci BEST WAWA 2016 “Upscale Casual” Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl
Grand Kredens This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a widereaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl Grunt i Woda An appealing wood-framed construction with hard hitting cocktails and a thoughtful menu that utilizes ingredients grown in their own garden. Watch out for their ‘jazz brunches’ each Sunday. Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej Hala Koszyki Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, warsawinsider.pl
49
EAT! Listings Original Indian Cuisine
Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com
presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl
Joseph’s Bistro & Wine Spacious and smooth on the eye, Joseph’s has the feel of a place where good things happen: and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar, not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl
Maui Bistro Tiki-style interiors pitch palm fronds against aquamarine and electric pink furnishings: yet despite the overt Polynesian theme, the menu is broad in its brushstrokes – giant cocobowls, hummus, tapas, tagliatelle and the area’s top burger. ul. Kazachzka 3, fb.com/
Kieliszki Na Hożej The only Polish graduate of the Alain Ducasse academy in Paris, Dawid Balana has combined everything he’s learned along the way to fashion a menu that’s high on local produce but cooked with a classic French twist. The tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com
club
50
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past,
mauibistro
MOD BEST WAWA 2016 “Casual Dining” Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69. com Plato Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to
EAT! Listings Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Północ Poludnie Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, and a busy bar side scene. The lamb comes highly recommended. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10, pn-pd.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2016 “Upscale Casual” Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and sur-
52
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
rounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy taste. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such
international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl
Strefa There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl
EAT! Listings
Tusz Tusz Bistro Hidden round the back of Pl. Bankowy’s epic blue tower, Tusz Tusz is the kind of place Warsaw needs more of: a catch-all solution with a local menu that keeps office workers in mind – it’s fast, available from dawn but doesn’t cut corners when it comes to basic standards. Full review coming soon. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 2
Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city
with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro. Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Wilczy Głód The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and treelike installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285
italian Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl The Blueberry’s Strange times for Pl. Zbawiciela: it’s not long back people were burning down the rainbow installation (RIP!), calling it Pl. Hipstera and writing about it in publications such as The New York Times. Though it might have stagnated a little since that heyday hopes are again high for the future, and The Blueberry’s is
The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine. The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world. Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+.
ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl
warsawinsider.pl
53
EAT! Listings one reason. Specializing in the food of Piedmont, find an onus placed on simple, home-style tastes. (D6) Pl. Zbawiciela, fb.com/theblueberrys
a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia.com.pl
Casa Ristoranti Pleasingly relaxed and informal, Casa Ristoranti has wooed Powiśle with its commitment to Italian ingredients, not to mention its accurate presentation of the classic majors. ul. Pereca 1, casaristoranti.pl
Dziurka od Klucza An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl
DaCurio Although it looks small and humble DaCurio have made quick work of amassing an enthusiastic following. Credit for that rests with the Roman-style pizza that comes sold by the slice. Made using Italian oils and flour, the pizzas here deserve the adulation they’ve received. (E3) ul. Tamka 45A Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere,
Enoteka This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of
yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl La Tomatina Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from good pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. Our spicy tiger prawn spaghetti was also okay, even if the presentation looked like a student had cooked it. (D5) ul. Krucza 47A, tel. 22 625 1047 latomatina.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s
w
The award-winning Enoteka Polska welcomes guests to the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town. A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.
54
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl tel. 882 048 012
EAT! Listings best pizza. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Sexy Duck Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Si From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115
japanese & sushi Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha A massive project from the same people behind The View: as such, expect a glittery crowd and lux interiors that are polished, sensual and primed for high living. Reports suggest a faultless Japanese menu that extends beyond sushi: full report next issue! (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Izumi Sushi The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel.
LEVEL 1 POLISH AND BUSINESS CUISINE
22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu Kago Sushi A place of such merit that it’s worth bludgeoning your way through the surging crowds of off-duty lawyers and second rate ‘slebs. A side project from the team behind Izumi, portioning here is strict and skimpy, but the precision, attention to detail and flavors are second to none. Bills creep up fast as you opt for ‘just one more nigiri’, but such is the brilliance that complaints are rare. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), kagosushi.pl Sakana Sushi Bar Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Ochota’s culinary drought is over, and in some style as well. While the plain interiors look bald and boring, the cooking of Satoru Yaegashi is all art and precision: braised duck breast with mustard; fried sardines with roasted sesame seeds; and heaps of homemade udon in warming fish broth. Often outstanding, it’s little wonder that people are arriving in droves from all across town: bookings aren’t mandatory, but they’re definitely advised. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-of-mouth. In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industrial-looking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl
2 SENATORSKA STREET, WARSAW + 48 22 829 20 50 or + 48 609 608 010 WWW.WARSZAWSKISZNYT.PL FACEBOOK.COM/ WARSZAWSKISZNYTRESTAURANT INSTAGRAM.COM/ WARSZAWSKI_SZNYT
LEVEL 0 MODERN STEAKHOUSE
warsawinsider.pl
55
EAT! Listings Sushi Zushi The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. Always recommended. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl Tomo While Warsaw’s other sushi stops
gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric
pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl YakoTako Naked bar the tables and chairs you eat on, YakoTako takes the concept of Japanese minimalism to extremes. The stripped down approach is also applied to the menu, a simple affair that presents two types of dishes: takoyaki (deep-fried octopus) and okonomiyaki (a cabbagebased pancake). Basic, cheap, but also pretty tasty. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15
jewish Florentin A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of modern day Israel. High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as one of the most exciting openings in recent times: if in doubt, the veal with harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention. Onto dessert, and make space for the basil panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’. (E4) ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/ FlorentinWarszawa Tel Aviv Although this multicultural melting pot is best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl
korean Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food
56
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
EAT! Listings served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Sora Buoyed by a surge in Korean expat numbers, Korena cuisine found itself cresting in 2016. Yet despite the
increasingly competitive market, Sora is commonly accepted as the ruler of the roost. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It’s even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul. Wronia 45
latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.
22 324 5781, casapablo.pl Mojo Picon Smart and atmospheric yet still pleasingly casual, the early feedback has been healthy. Specializing in Hispanic cuisine, especially that of the Canary Islands, specific strengths include a broad selection of Spanish wines, artfully composed tapas and a paella for the purists. A smaller operation the size of a mouse hole operates on Poznanska. ul. Prosta 53, mojopicon.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns. A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl
NEW MENU
Modern take on Italian cuisine tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl
warsawinsider.pl
57
EAT! Listings Restaurante Bunuel Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuel-restauracja.com
mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over
new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl El Barrio Famed for his long association with El Popo, chef Angel Aceves Vivanco has teamed up with Lourdes Estrada to create a cheerful-looking spot on the fringe of New Town. Ringing with colorful patterns and mosaics, the effect – like the food itself – is simple but reassuringly lively. On the Insider’s visit, that meant a hefty chicken burrito given a viper’s bite thanks to a chili habanero salsa – but inconsistencies are plentiful and need to be resolved – fast! (C1) ul. Długa 6, elbarrio.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries
Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 Pastry Shop Warsaw, Pl. Grzybowski 2, open: 9.00 - 20.00 Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00
smakiwarszawy.pl
58
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena Creamy guacamole the color of Kermit; cocktails that are both vicious and delicious; and drunken beans full of heart and vim. But La Sirena gets even better, particularly with the short ribs burrito and a readjusted ‘almost death salsa’ that’s learned to say POW. Add to this a machete-laden interior that draws inspiration from the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, and you understand why this tiny, backstreet cantina has become the talk of the town. At no point in its history has Warsaw enjoyed better Mexican food. (D5) ul. Piękna 54
EAT! Listings Maria Kolendra The most likable trend of the past year? That’ll be Warsaw’s growing mania for Mexican food. Set in a small ‘pavilion’ building out in the Służew boonies, such is the authenticity that its loyal band of devotees see nothing wrong in traipsing across the city for a taste of Luis and Armando’s tacos and burritos. ul. Puławska 246 Spoco Loco It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. (H4) ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl Urban Burritos It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl
middle eastern Falafel Bejrut Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a small scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is award-winning falafel. The hummus, too, is pretty amazing. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15 Falafel Bejrut Moliera 8 Falafel Bejrut have grown from life as a ‘food bike’ outside Hala Mirowska, to a runaway juggernaut in the heart of Warsaw. Both the falafel and hummus are exceptional, and you’ll find their latest venue also serving artisanal vegan ice
cream from Vegestacja. (D2) ul. Moliera 8
Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl
Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul. Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Samira There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska. Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. ul. Powsińska 64a, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl
YOU’VE TRIED ALL THE REST, NOW TRY THE BEST!
Newly Opened! Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299
Le Cedre 61
(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166
Le Cedre 84
(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999
www.lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl
59
EAT! Listings Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl
polish
Ale Gloria Who said romance was dead? Here
wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841 Bar Gdański First created in the 1950’s, Bar Gdański has operated on Andersa 33 since the very birth of this showpiece Socialist Realist housing block. Closed in spring, it’s now been rescued, revamped and finally reopened. Offering a modernized slant on the traditional milk bar experience, it’s been ‘adapted for the 21st century whilst also remaining sensitive to the past. Drawing a wide variety of locals – young and old, rich and broke – the food is simple, hearty, classic Polish. Great place, great value. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/ bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery,
Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl
62
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of 2016 saw chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli. Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek leaves no doubt why local food fans repeat his name with reverence and awe. For this restaurant, 2017 promises to get even bigger. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens. Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. Ideal for
EAT! Listings first time tourists. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl
Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous
anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. Chef Michał Tkaczyk has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to
finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly. Reactivated a couple of years ago, this
AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE
Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl
warsawinsider.pl
63
EAT! Listings gem has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for simple food and local drinks. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź The Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers. Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Mała Polana Smaków BEST WAWA 2016 “Modern Polish” Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional. Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Opasły Tom Sneaked off a lively side street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Reliant on the freshest local ingredients around, this
64
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
restaurant’s strategy places an onus on seasonality whilst remaining fiercely creative. (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16
Restauracja Pod Gigantami All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin. Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good. It’s here the Insider enjoyed its favorite żurek of 2016. (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just
being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Słoik Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Solec 44 Solec 44 does nothing if not challenge gastronomic norms. Found on the upper floor of a shabby Communist pavilion, the versatility of this place makes it great to hang out with friends over beer and board games: it’s not often you find faces from the TV in the same room as student types, but that’s the kind of inclusive atmosphere here. The biggest draw though is the chef, Aleksander Baron. Combing the farms and forests of Poland for ingredients, his obsession with old baroque recipes, noseto-tail cooking and forgotten fermentation processes is inspiring to all who adore cooking. (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful
EAT! Listings backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl
jars of pickles and jumble sale finds. The welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. The food though is a bit of a massacre. Take the zharkoe: what should be a thick and hefty pot roast is limp and placid and empty of taste. ul. Ząbkowska 37, tel. 512 123 967, fb.com/skamiejka
Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek.eu
scandinavian
Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl Zielnik A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl
russian Skamiejka As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Located at the far end of Ząbkowska, it’s a place filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces: album covers, books,
66
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl
seafood Funky Fish Bar Though better known as one of Warsaw’s top pub crawls, there’s more to Nowogrodzka street than just raw-looking tap bars. The latest addition to its budding gastro offer is Funky, a bright and casual spot where fish is the forte. Despite this, find them open from early serving their unique interpretation of the Great British breakfast. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, restbarfunkyfish.com Lokal na Rybę Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretense interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel
dishes. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/ lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl
specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and Englishspeaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as ‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen
Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool:
the best Italian cooking workshops in Warsaw. Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25, Warsaw
For more information please visit:
www.akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl
EAT! Listings access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture. Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Mojo Picon Mojo Picon specializes in vending Spanish groceries, expressly the produce of the Canary Islands. A creditable charcuterie section is enhanced by an array of
cheese, wine and jarred exotica. (D5) ul. Poznańska 3, mojopicon.pl Targ Śniadaniowy The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town. Now also present in three other locations: check their web for details. Al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, targsniadaniowy.pl Trawa A tight little store whose surprisingly copious food offer (which includes fresh fruit and veg from local markets) is complemented by all kinds of natural unguents, balms, oils and suchlike including those from the celebrated Lavera brand. Highly recommended. Pl. Grzybowski 10
steak houses
Beef n’ Pepper A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one
LUNCH
35 zł
ul. Plac Teatralny 3, Warsaw, tel: 601 81 82 83, info@thaithai.waw.pl, www.thaithai.pl Warszawa, Sopot, Gdańsk, Poznań
68
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
EAT! Listings thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Downtown Restaurant There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745 Ed Red Warszawa can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl
Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl
thai Thai Thai In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl
Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl
Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl
Merliniego 5 A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and
Wi-Taj Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky
‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’
Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00
warsawinsider.pl
69
EAT! Listings nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4
vegan & wholefood Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Krowazywa Packed with girls wearing skating clothes and moon boots, this burgery makes a big boast that their whole menu is 100% plant-based and their food compiled using ‘the best, freshest, unprocessed and full-balanced ingredients.’ The Warzywex, a burger composed of marinated and grilled slices of local veg, is an absolute winner. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 881 777 894 ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl
Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122
Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza
Weranda Bistro Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food. Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs
Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu reveals steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/ vietstreetfoodpl
Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl
70
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
vietnamese
Momencik Vegan burritos may sound wrong, but at Momencik they’re every bit as good as anything you’ll be used to. The only difference is that you won’t leave feeling like you’ve eaten a sack of socks: on the contrary, it’s got all the perky flavor that Mexican food should have, but none of the unpleasant post-meal bloaty bubbles. And it’s cheap! Diners fork out less than zł. 22 for a lunch deal that includes homemade lemonade, a burrito and soup of the day: it’s your lucky day if that happens to be their tomato soup. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16
PRESENTING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANT IN POLAND
assembled to look complex and intriguing. Recommended is the Croatian salad which rrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl
Restaurant Słoik ul. Złota 11 (Pasaż Wiecha) kontakt@restauracjasloik.pl +48 600 396 688
RESTAURANT
www.restauracjasloik.pl facebook.com/restauracja.sloik instagram.com/sloik_zlota_11
COCKTAILBAR
DJ EVERY WEEKEND
BREAKFAST
HOMEMADE DUMPLINGS
Restaurant Si ul. Marszałkowska 115 kontakt@restauracjasi.pl +48 507 099 190
www.restauracjasi.pl facebook.com/restauracjaSi instagram.com/restauracja_Si
HOMEMADE PASTA AND ITALIAN DISHES LIVE MUSIC
EVENTS
ORGANIC & VEGAN WINES
COCKTAILS
DJ EVERY WEEKEND
COMPLIMENTARY BREAKFAST WITH EVERY HOT BEVERAGE
Restaurant Secado ul. Marszałkowska 66 kontakt@secado.com.pl +48 608 707 799
RESTAURANT
www.secado.com.pl facebook.com/SECADO instagram.com/restauracja_secado
COCKTAILBAR
BUSINESS LUNCH
CORPORATE DINNER
DJ EVERY WEEKEND
DRINK!
PHOTOGRAPH ED WIGHT
CRAFT ON THE SQUARE
It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. Maryensztadt Craft Beer & Food ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11
warsawinsider.pl
73
Drink! Beer Festival
SOMETHING BREWING
As the 7th Warsaw Beer Festival approaches, co-founder Paweł Leszczyński speaks to the Insider about the festival’s trajectory... an emergency, but we’ve just learned to use our time better and make ourselves more accessible. How do you find a balance between domestic breweries and those from abroad? We don’t. From the beginning we were clear that this festival would be a celebration and showcase of the Polish craft beer scene. Obviously we have a few foreign breweries as guests, but we can’t keep everyone happy. We have to say no to many breweries, both foreign and Polish – we’re not interested in those that follow trends, we want to showcase breweries that create them.
Raising the standard: co-founders Jacek Materski (left) and Paweł Leszczyński (right) take a break during the April installment of the Warsaw Beer Festival.
WI: The Warsaw Beer Festival is held twice a year – do you just like beer or is there another reason? PL: The Polish craft beer scene changes so fast that we felt it’d be impossible to show all the trends and ideas coming through if we only held an annual festival. As it turns out, it was a fantastic idea: when you wait twelve months between festivals you’re more likely to forget what fixes need to be made. Holding the festival every six months enables us to tinker with the formula and make subtle improvements. This is now the seventh edition of the festival: what have you learned on the way? We made lots of silly mistakes on the first festival, though I think the biggest one we made was working too hard. Jacek, the co-founder, was cleaning the portable toilets while I was inside mopping the floors. When you’re the public face of a festival you can’t do that, you need to be out and about speaking to the brewers, bloggers and guests. Poles love to complain, so if they can’t find the organizers they’ll complain to anyone else who will listen. Obviously both of us still are ready to jump in and help out in
74
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Are there any changes planned? We’re polishing small things, making little tweaks. Though it’s not confirmed, we’re looking at introducing some improv theater. We’re also changing our app and adding more food trucks – last time there just weren’t enough. We also noticed that the ‘beer lectures’ weren’t working: I guess when people turn up to a beer festival they want to party – they’re not looking at the clock to see if someone from so-and-so is going to be speaking about beer. I think though, it’ll be the brewers that make the biggest changes. For most of them, this isn’t just ‘another festival’. This is the only festival that some attend, so they’re really looking to make an impact. For the first time, we’ve actually got a non-alcoholic brewery lined-up. Do you see any red flags on the domestic brewing front? Too many brewers aren’t experimental enough, but that’s because there just aren’t enough people out there to learn from. As a country we don’t have enough specialists that can hand on their knowledge. Secondly, too many new breweries aren’t being run correctly. Often, one or two people are doing everything themselves: invoices, distribution, marketing, etc. It’s unrealistic to run a brewery like that. Sure, they might produce good beer, but that’s not always enough. Essentially, this industry lacks professionals. Most brewers have never owned a business before. To them, two million zloty is an enormous sum, but in reality, in the corporate world, that’s practically nothing. Our brewers are having to adapt fast and learn from scratch, quite often whilst also juggling a second job. The Warsaw Beer Festival runs from September 21st to 23rd and will again be held at Legia’s stadium on Łazienkowska 3. One-day passes are priced at zł. 10 and 3-day passes zł. 20. For further info: warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl
Drink! Beer Festival
Pawel’s Cheat Sheet
Inside tips and tricks to survive the toughest three days your liver stands to face...
Thursday
That’s beer geek day! It’s for those that are ready to take time off work to be the first people to try all the new beers. With everyone fresh, it’s also the best time to chat with the brewers.
Friday
That’s when we all become one and the stadium turns into a giant party pub! It’s when the brewers really to try to show-off and present their best beers and snacks. It’s all about great people and great atmosphere!
Saturday
Much slower – great for hanging out with your family. Some beers will already have been finished off, but hey, you’ll still have around 350 others to choose from.
First-timer?
Bring your mates and find the dream beer that suits your taste. Treat it as a game: you have limited time, limited resources and dwindling control of your senses. Don’t drink excessively, but explore. Talk to people: staff, other guests, etc. Think of them as your guides on this epic journey of discovery!
Argh... Queues!
Big queues suggest something unique that’s unavailable elsewhere. Will it be worth it? Well, that depends on personal taste, but those people aren’t standing in line just for the sake of it. Top tip: queues pass quicker when you’re already holding a beer!
Etiquette...
Don’t do anything you wouldn’t do in a normal pub. Really, it’s nothing different from real life: trust your senses, be nice
76
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
to others, have fun and don’t make things hard on yourself by being an asshole.
Glass or Plastic?
Plastic ain’t cool! We’ve got a limited number of special edition handmade glasses that haven’t just been designed to look good, but to also straighten out the fruity, hoppy aromas in a beer. Remember, rinse the glass before the next beer.
Strategy
There’s many to pick from: personally I prefer to start with light, refreshing, sour beers before moving onto stronger ones in the evening. It’s important to clean the palette from time to time with fruity / acidic beer and to drink water regularly.
What To Watch
Our festival always sees new trends created. This time round I’m expecting to see more Gdansk-style Jopen beer (high sugar and high alcohol). More Polish breweries are looking for new spices and ideas from abroad, and I’m also anticipating more ‘wet hop’ beers (that use fresh-off-the vine, unprocessed hops).
Bloody Sunday...
I’m a hangover specialist! You’ve got to start working on the cure during the festival by drinking plenty of water and ensuring you’ve eaten – but avoid heavy food. Take breaks between drinking and give some time between boozing and going to bed. Next day, avoid deep-fried or unhealthy foods, instead choose fish or eggs. Get plenty of Vitamin C inside you and... fresh garlic: that really helps your organism, especially after craft beer. Avoid grapefruit juice and only take aspirin if you really think you need it.
Warsaw Beer Festival ul. Ĺ azienkowska 3, warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl
warsawinsider.pl
77
DRINK! Listings bars & pubs The Alchemist The great British tradition of ‘a pint after work’ is gathering steam in PL, thanks in part to places like this. Lively and cosmopolitan, The Alchemist’s broad ranging appeal – not to mention ‘self-service beer wall’ – makes it a winning gathering point for 5 p.m. drinks. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl
and wood and a so-called ‘tank system’ that maintains the beer’s freshness. Try the ‘Mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl
Bollywood Lounge Bollywood in full swing is quite a sight – find banging beats and an energetic club atmosphere complimented by the pungent pleasures of their sheesha pipes. The Sunday karaoke sessions are a hoot. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl
Bar Gemba Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras. Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. (D5)
Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails getting better, and the atmosphere cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the outdoor terrace is one of the places to be seen this summer. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)
ul. Wilcza 50/52
Bar Pacyfik Candy floss pink and ocean blue? Remarkably, these colors work thanks to lighting that’s kept dimmed and dark: inspired by 80s Mexico City, Pacyfik looks and feels raw and gritty, hip and happening. Catering to more than just the overspill from Hala Koszyki, this hangout has assumed immediate cult status and the kind of street terrace buzz that shouts summer in the city. Tip: the hot, hot, hot Bloody Maria is Poland’s best hangover cure. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Beirut As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.
Ceska Having promised to never return following an incident with a nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds. (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl
Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new owners appear to have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras. (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl
(D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl
Bohemia As welcome as the global beer reformation has been, it has had its drawbacks: namely, the number of snobs and zealots found leering over pineapple stouts and impossible IPAs. Sometimes you just want a normal bar with good, clean lager. Bohemia is that place. This is a Czech bar for modern times: stylish interiors of glass
78
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
all. (C1) ul. Freta 19 Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell. The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets, while the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters. Serving their own ‘Grizzly lager’ as well as numerous cocktails based on different craft gins, it’s fast becoming the latest night in the area. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46
Hard Rock Cafe Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl
Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar
Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl
Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after
Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe. com
DRINK! Listings Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. (D4) Enter
from ul. Nowy Świat 26
Marszałkowska 17
Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while summer sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. (B1)
W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6,
ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl
oparyabsurdu.pl
Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl.
Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul.
Zbawiciela), planb.pl
Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl
Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl
Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl
Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul.
80
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
cafés Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl
Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this
DRINK! Listings café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60
neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well. Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, award-winning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A
Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl
FatWhite_CoffeeBar Though still in its fledgling stages of transformation, Andersa’s new-found popularity has much to do with the Ferajna barber shop. Find FatWhite attached to it: a two-roomed affair populated by lumbersexual types, expect a great flat white served inside an ice white design given punch by pops of shrubbery and bits of cool art. (C1) ul. Andersa 6
the walls clad with archaic books and sepia photos of the city that once was. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 2/4, malaziemianska.pl
Matcha Tea House Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea as their cornerstone ingredient. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17
Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18
Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl
Mała Ziemiańska Sat as it is on a street that’s become the Center of Now, Mała Ziemiańska is a pleasing throwback to slower times. Designed to evoke the artistic spirit of the mid-19th century, this warming café is steeped in shadow and curiosities. A celebration of pre-war Warsaw, the literary pretensions of this bolthole find
MiTo Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a
Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl
Kawiarnia Fabryczna Looking for a place in which to shut the world out and stick your nose in a book? Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window. It’s a place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away. The flat white is spot-on as well. (E3) ul. Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl
Kos Kos is a place intent on stitching the
ENTER THE WORLD OF ROOM 13
ROOM13 is the heart of the club basin at the legendary Mazowiecka Street. Perfect location in the center of Warsaw, modern interiors combined with historic architecture and top-class music - all these qualities make Room13 the best choice on the Warsaw’s club map. The club is located in the 19th century tenement house in the heart of Warsaw. The unconventional club has been adapted to represent the interiors of the pre-war company’s premises. Opening hours: Thursday - Sunday 22nd - last guest Mazowiecka 13 • www.room13.pl • fb.com/room13club
warsawinsider.pl
81
DRINK! Listings futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito. art.pl
Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17 Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4,
Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about. (E3) ul. Tamka 33
weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.
clubs
(F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego
Backstage Studio Snuggled into a row of shabby cabins mostly rented to sex shops and gambling dens, Backstage feels secretive and clandestine. In spite of that, it’s earned a name among the younger generation as one of the best spaces in Warsaw for electro, minimal and techno nights (check their Facebook for upcoming events). Rather bigger than it looks, step downstairs to find chaos unfurling in a labyrinthine basement. (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, backstagestudio.club
odette.pl
Relaks Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd. (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Resort The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. (C2) ul. Bielańska 1 Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul. Nowomiejska 10 Stor Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café.
82
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Bal If you thought Nowogrodzka was just about grungy craft beer dens then think again. Proving you wrong is Bal, a club that draws a pleasure-seeking party crew of waifish, wasted model-types and assorted hangers-on. Find them twerking away under one of the most interesting lighting arrangements in the city. (F5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, niechzyjebal.pl
Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com
Luztro Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better. (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl
No Comment Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this
Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com
Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl
Sen Pszczoły Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out. ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl
The View Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl
cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging
DRINK! Listings around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts! Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57
BROUGHT TO YOU BY BARDZIEJ
Bar & Books Wood-paneled and lined with leatherbound tomes, there’s a sense of dignity T R C that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail scene. P T M There’s humor, as well, courtesy of C W portraits≈ of chimps togged out like 18th W C century≈gentry. Similar to a members’ C C ≈ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ T ≈ mixed and muddled by the sort cocktails P E of charming bartenders you’d trust serv≈ L S ing Bond. While bills can become weighty P B B affairs, no one regrets the spend – plus, you can smoke here as well! (D2) ul. Wąski HE MOST
EFRESHINGLY LACES
IVILIZED
EETTM
O
IGARS &
INE &
HISKY
HAMPAGNE
OCKTAILS &
USINE
ASTINGS
RIVATE
OCATION
ODWALE
VENTS
HOOTS
AR AND
OOKS
Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199
Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl
Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is V O L becoming one of the most talked about i n Y a P streets around. This split-level bar does a www.barandbooks.pl good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials. The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 n
isit
ur
ew
Ork
OcatiOns nd
rague
BaB_inzerce_Warsaw.indd 1
12.08.15 20:49
(enter from Oleandrów)
Biała Expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself: set in a gloriously white inter-war villa, this is a place that oozes with sex appeal. There aren’t many finer outdoor gardens. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/ bialazjedziwypij
Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and
DISCOVER GIN!
Takes some hops, yeast, a crust of bread, lots of foam and then bottle those altogether: we’re not describing our latest beer, we’re talking about ‘Gin in a Bottle’! Created as an alternative for beer lovers, this cocktail sees gin infused with citra and marynka hops to bring out an intense pale ale flavor with a moderate bitter finish. Lemon and bread crust syrup balance it out, while naturally fermented honey acid lends a delicate, yeasty aftertaste. Once bottled, the fermentation process leads to gentle carbonation. On a hot summer’s day there’s little that beats Bardziej’s refreshing Gin in a Bottle!
See you at BARDZIEJ! ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 118 2743, www.bardziejbar.pl warsawinsider.pl
83
DRINK! Listings dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless. (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)
Karowa 31 Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed by a dreadlocked Dane called Bram. (D3) ul.
Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com
Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an Palmier unlikely marriage that manages to work. Escapist in every respect, there’s a star Do your pecking, picking, sipping and quality here, a real sense of swank. The supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that interiors are the stuff of Gatsby – tall palm encourages mingling and interaction. (D4) fronds and marble finishes underneath ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl ceilings that stretch forever – while the long, strip terrace is pure seasonal bliss: a place to chill, chat and pretend to be one of Warsaw’s top 1%. Well-balanced and impeccable on every level, cocktails here are a liquid journey into the heart of Playhouse pleasure. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy The Roots me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse Cluttered with shiny props and pieces models itself on the top class mega clubs rescued from the early days of cocktail such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result making, The Roots could pass for a is a subterranean space removed from Victorian era curiosity shop. Looking the sleaze and murk usually associated past the eccentricities that comprise the with the industry. But you want to know interior, it’s become famous on account what the girls are like, yeah? Let the of irresistible drinks mixed and muddled fact askmen.com voted it their favorite by dapper experts that aren’t so much strip in the world speak for itself. (B3) Al. barmen as they are craftsmen. (C2) ul. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl
for gentlemen
Wierzbowa 11
Weles A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl
Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a
84
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
craft beer Artezan Pub Browar Artezan’s flagship pub is a compulsory visit for all beer aficionados. The beer is the magnetic force with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples from this brewery’s portfolio. The Pacific is the Insider’s all-time favorite. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A
Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15
taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl
Chmielarnia Marszałkowska With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons! (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw.pl
Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beret-wearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeermuranow
Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl
Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the
DRINK! Listings side passage), czesc.waw.pl
ice cream – hooray! (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, hoppiness.ontap.pl
Czeska Baszta Halfway up one of the Harry Potter turrets that support Poniatowski Bridge, find divey Czeska engulfed in a murky yellow glow. Boisterous but friendly, the ace up their sleeve is a brilliant assembly of Czech craft beer. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl
Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl
Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station. Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 4
Kufle i Kapsle All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage. Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl
Gorączka Złota Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer, this bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success. (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl
Heritage Birreria Artigianale A new twist on the multi-tap concept, Heritage’s hook is their obsession with Italian and British gypsy breweries. Eyes naturally fall on ten taps dispensing beers from Thornbridge, San Gabriel, Birrificio Milano, etc., and while the drawn-out pouring time can frustrate, most agree that the drinks are worth the wait. Find a well-presented middle-aged crowd squashed inside a tiny little unit that’s often full to capacity. (E3) ul. Tamka 9, fb.com/HeritageBirreriaArtigianale
Hoppiness You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor. There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based
86
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars. ul Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl Małe Piwo Oleandrów’s reawakening began on this very spot! Opened six years back, MP preempted the craft beer trend to become one of Warsaw’s first places for something better than a pint of Piss-kie. Looking wholly unfinished and fashionably distressed, it’s got that New York dive vibe down to a tee – you imagine The Strokes rolling in right after band practice. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4
Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s
a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl
Spiskowcy Rozkoszy The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl The Taps No longer a niche movement, the opening of The Taps is another sign of craft beers mainstream market penetration. Set on the once super trendy Sienkiewicza, hopes are high that the opening of this three-floor drinking den could yet revive the fortunes of this street. Appealing to a young, pre-club crowd, the industrial / loft-style décor feels rather contrived and a little too polished. ul. Sienkiewicza 4
live music 12on14 Jazz Club Warsaw has a rich tradition of jazz, so you have to sometimes wonder, just where the hell are all the jazz bars? In 12on14’s case, down a courtyard and through a side entrance. Dark, smart and sophisticated, here’s a place that’s fitted out with framed portraits of sax tooting masters as a well-stocked bar area decorated with quotes from jazz legends. Open from Tuesday till Saturday, evenings see local and international musicians take to the stage. (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16, 12on14club.com
Chwila Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and
Fine Lebanese cusine
20 YEARS
Proudly Serving Warsaw
www.lecedre.pl
Le Cedre 61
(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166
Le Cedre Lounge (Centrum) Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299
Le Cedre 84
(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999
DRINK! Listings magazine covers, is a reason to linger. (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35
Pardon, To Tu Found until recently on Pl. Grzybowski, the gentrification of the center recently saw the demolition of Pardon’s original HQ. Undeterred, the team behind Warsaw’s most experimental live music venue have revived their role in a temporary summer space outside Mokotów’s Nowy Teatr. Strung with fairy lights, this outdoor jumble of furniture comes alive in a magic swirl of innovative sound once live bands step on the stage. (E9) ul. Madalinskiego 10/16
vodka Bar Warszawa Thick with alcoholic fumes and the sound of drunken tantrums, Bar Warszawa excels in its role as a late night dive bar. Split on two levels, upstairs is where most head to flop around a retro lounge interior filled with nostalgic decorations that tempt kleptomaniacs. The cut price shots and pints do their bit in facilitating slurred conversations with a variety of strangers. Not surprisingly, evenings often extend beyond the advertised closing time of 4 a.m. (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, barwarszawa.pl Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl
wine bars
Bubbles Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl
Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Dyletanci Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Enoteka It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bomboł. (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl
Ale Wino! At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl
88
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in
much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl
Mielzynski Wine Bar After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much. (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl Nowina Though only opened towards in January, Nowina have thus far chalked up a bundle of five star reviews. Helping in the achievement of that has been a striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl Pani Wina Tucked down an upcoming stretch of Wilcza, the interiors play-up to the pre-war heritage of the building with the elegantly demure decorations anchored around mustard-colored banquettes, olive green walls and immaculate parquet flooring: smart, soothing and even pretty sexy. In rhythm with the times, it’s the first wine bar in Warsaw where bushy beards, tatts and hip, casual fashion are the dominant sight. (E5) ul. Wilcza 11, fb.com/PaniWina
DO!
TAKE A RUNNING JUMP
Poland’s seen trampoline parks before, just not quite like this. Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. Yet that’s not even the tip of the iceberg. With the weather entering its fickle stages, surpass Warsaw’s outdoor line parks and climbing walls and instead check Stacja’s facilities: these include 300 meters of rope walks, and over 80 indoor climbing routes of varying difficulty. Quite literally, it’s breathless stuff. Stacja Grawitacja ul. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl
warsawinsider.pl
89
DO! Last Chance
Death of a Supermodel?
With City Hall seemingly turning its back, the end looms for Warsaw’s stunning miniature park...BY STUART DOWELL | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT
I
have a schizophrenic approach to Warsaw – I love both of them. I love modern Warsaw with its confident business towers, trendy eateries and cosmopolitan vibe. But I especially love the older Warsaw that we have lost; the Warsaw of elegant townhouses, green squares, horse and carriage transport, Jewish life and cafés filled with Chopin and jazz. It is the Warsaw described so evocatively by Isaac Bashevis Singer and Bolesław Prus; the Warsaw that is pictured nostalgically in the many
90
photo albums available in bookshops. Therefore, news of the imminent closure of Warsaw’s Miniature Park, which gathers intricate and beautiful scale models of some of the city’s greatest but now lost buildings, has come as a bitter and unpleasant surprise. The park, currently seeing out its days until the end of October in the impressive Art Deco Bank Landau building at Senatorska 38, offers visitors a chance to travel back in time and feel the atmosphere of the city
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
as it was in 18th and 19th centuries. In total, there are ten 1:25 scale models that show even the smallest details of architecture, clothing and vehicles from those times. Highlights include the Lubomirski Palace, Kronenberg Palace and Saski Palace, as well as the Żelazna Gate and the wooden Summer Theater that stood in Saski Gardens up to the outbreak of WWII. The park was established as the Masovian Voivodeship Miniature Park Foundation in 2014 by a group of Warsaw history enthusiasts as a
way of restoring the legacy of pre-WWII Warsaw and promoting knowledge about Warsaw. Since then, the park has been on an odyssey of its own, moving from Sowiński Park to the basement of the Jabłkowski Brothers building at Bracka 25, and then finally to Senatorska. Notice has been given on the lease agreement for the current premises. As the park’s director Rafał Kumach says: “We have to be out by the end of October this year. We don’t know what will happen next. We don’t have any ideas.” While City Hall have previously been supportive of the park and shared the goals of the foundation, at the moment it looks like this support is limited to lip service rather than offering concrete help. “We met with City Hall,” says Kunach, “but it didn’t produce anything. The city
Miniature Park ul. Senatorska 38, pl.miniaturymazowieckie.com
doesn’t have anything to offer us.” City Hall’s official reason for giving notice on the premises is unpaid heating bills. Agnieszka Kabała from the park comments: “The Landau Bank building is really expensive to run. In the first year, the heating cost zl. 15,000 a month, twice as much as we assumed. We couldn’t even turn the heating off at night.” The park claims that the amount they owed was to be offset by funding from the State Treasury (the owner of the building) for replacing some of the windows. “We finished doing the windows, but they haven’t sent us any money so far,” says Kunach. City Hall also claims that the fact the park operates as a business is a problem. “Of course we operate as a business, but we use the money we earn to pay for the foundation’s costs and to build new models,” Kunach responded. He mentions another bone of contention: “We don’t receive any financing; we’ve had nothing since the very beginning, even though all museums in Warsaw are subsidized.” It is hard to deny that the park plays an important social role and does not simply operate as a business earning profits for its owners. Groups of school children are regular visitors and they are led around the displays on tours conducted by eminent Warsaw historians such as Jarosław Zieliński. The educational value of these tours is hard to calculate. The park has great value for older people too. On one visit, I was approached by an elegant, well-dressed woman in a very advanced age. “I see you are admiring the wooden Summer
Theatre. Did you know, I used to attend performances in it before the war,” she offered. I asked about her impressions: “I didn’t like it much. It creaked terribly and I was always worried it would go up in flames”. I let a group of historians in the room at the time know who I had just met, upon which they sprung out of their
chairs and peppered the old lady with questions trying to wring every last detail from her still lucid mind. So go and visit the park while you still can. But keep an eye on their Facebook page, (facebook.com/ parkminiatur), as there are sure to be more twists and turns to this story. Maybe a generous donor will save
the day, or room will be found in some regenerating post-industrial space. Even if this doesn’t happen, the models can be brought out of storage at some time in the future: after all, the wonderful model of the Old Town in the newly renovated Museum of Warsaw was made in the 1950s but still delights in its detail. warsawinsider.pl
91
DO! Public Art
A WALK OF ART Perhaps Warsaw’s greatest talent lies in its ability to surprise: just when you think you know the city inside out, bang, it pulls a rabbit out of the hat and leaves you bamboozled. Certainly, that’s the common reaction upon discovering the Bródno Sculpture Park. Set in the darkest depths of Targówek, an area of Legoland apartment blocks covered in bird poo, the sculpture park was officially inaugurated back in 2009. A constantly evolving work reliant on both the local community and the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw, the park is frequently cited as being one of Central Eastern Europe’s best kept artistic secrets. Highlights are many, though few rival Sylwia. The work of the acclaimed Paweł Althamer, this four-tonne statue is a truly arresting sight: a glimmering bronze nude with jets of water spurting from her nipples. Added in 2010, she’s just one of many sculptures and installations that pepper the park. Among other points of interest there’s a Guardian Angel elevated on a pillar, an upside down tea house, not to mention an ‘invisible sculpture’ that, yep, you really can’t see. And let’s not forget Monika Sosnowska’s Krata: an intricate spherical object inspired by the playgrounds once found in the backyards of PRL Poland. More than just a suburban oddity, it’s become an essential stop for lovers of public art. For further info, not least an interactive map of must-see attractions, visit the park’s revamped website at: park.artmuseum.pl
92
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
Brรณdno Sculpture Park facebook.com/parkrzezbynabrodnie
warsawinsider.pl
93
DO! Calendar
EDITOR’S PICK Warsaw Gallery Weekend 22-24 Sept @ various locations
The annual Warsaw Gallery Weekend is a festival of contemporary art jointly organized by private galleries around the city. The extensive program of exhibitions and special events reflects the most exciting current trends on Warsaw’s art scene and will see 26 privately run galleries open their doors for free over the course of the weekend. Among these will be the Raster, Monopol, Leto, Lokal_30 and Propaganda. For info, see: warsawgalleryweekend.pl
F E S T I VA L
Singer’s 14th Jewish Culture Festival Ongoing till 3 Sept @ various locations
Regarded as one of Europe’s most anticipated festivals of Jewish culture, over 200 events are planned and these include screenings, guided walks, concerts and workshops with Próżna and Pl. Grzybowski being the focal point. Taken on its own, the street party vibe makes it completely unmissable. For schedule, see: festiwalsingera.pl FOOD
Fine Dining Week Ongoing till 3 Sep @ various locations
Warsaw’s second ever ‘fine
94
dining week’ aims to showcase the higher end of the capital’s restaurant scene: for zł. 119 diners will be able to enjoy a tailormade 5-course tasting menu at a number of upmarket restaurants. For the full line-up of participating restaurants, check their website / facebook for further details.
Baroque Music 3-17 Sept @ Muzeum Łazienki, ul. Agrykoli 1
The only festival in Poland dedicated to Baroque opera. The works of Vivaldi, Vinci and Caldara will be presented along with concerts set to take place on the ‘Palace on the Isle.’ Tickets zł. 20-100
For more info, see: restaurantweek.pl
CONCERT
CONCERT
5 Sept @ Łazienkowska 6A
Chopin in the Park Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park
Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-fringed gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract crowds of hundreds. The season’s finale will take place on Sept 24th. Free admission SPORT
Boules Tournament 2-3 Sept @ Pl. Europejski
Beginning at 9 a.m., watch teams from across Europe participate in the Ghelamco Boules Cup. Among the attractions laid on, spectators will have the chance to win a visit to the top floor of the Warsaw Spire above. Sunday is marked down as an open day during which all are invited to see if they have a knack for boules. Free admission ANIMALS
‘Flying Dog’ Show 2-3 Sept @ Pole Mokotowskie
The Dog Chow Disc Cup Finale brings together ‘flying dogs’ from across Poland who will perform an array of music-accompanied Frisbee tricks with their owners. Held in Pole Mokotowskie, the two-day event also has a category titled ‘dog diving’ which entails fearless canines jumping into water. Free admission F E S T I VA L
3rd Festival of
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Chris Botti One of the few smooth jazz artists to penetrate the mainstream, Botti’s 2013 Grammy for Best Pop Instrumental Album was the reward for years of patiently knocking on the door.
the powerful experience of sharing one minute eye contact with random people in a public space.” Free Admission F E S T I VA L
Cross Culture Festival 23-30 Sept @ various locations
The thirteenth edition of this annual festival will promote cultural and musical diversity, and will feature workshops and debates as well as concerts from Baba Zulu (Turkey), Marta Gomez (Colombia) and Kondi Band (Sierra Leone / USA).
For info, see: festival.warszawa.pl SPORT
Tickets from zł. 159 @ ebilet.pl
Warsaw Marathon
CONCERT
24 Sept, 9:00 @ Most Poniatowskiego
The Sisters of Mercy 15 Sept @ Progresja, ul. Fort Wola 22
Formed in Leeds in the 1980s, this Goth Rock juggernaut describe themselves as ‘an industrial groove machine’ and ‘intellectual love gods’. They’ll be supported by The Membranes.
The 39th edition of the Warsaw Marathon follows a 42-kilometer route that takes in many of the city’s highlights: among them Łazienki and the Royal Castle. Beginning at Pl. Trzech Krzyży, the run is expected to draw over 8,500 participants.
Tickets from zł. 130 @ ticketpro.pl
For info, see: pzumaratonwarszawski.com
F E S T I VA L
SPORT
15-23 Sept @ various locations
24 Sept @ Tor Służewiec, ul. Puławska 226
International Festival of Contemporary Music A variety of locations (including the Królikarnia Sculpture Park, Kordegarda Gallery, CSW, etc.) will play host to a number of workshops, meetings, debates and performances that will involve all manner of weird and avant garde instruments. For info, see: warszawska-jesien. art.pl EVENT
Eye Contact Experiment 23 Sept, 11:00 @ Pl. Zamkowy
‘The World’s Biggest Eye Contact Experiment’ is the third edition of this worldwide event. Say the organizers: “Let’s rebuild our sense of human connection with
Wielka Warszawska Race One of the oldest Polish horse races is modelled on the French Grand Prix de Paris and is an epic family day with a heavy pre-war accent. For info, see: torsluzewiec.pl S K AT I N G
Night Skating 30 Sept
Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 18km route. Starting at 21:00, usually by the Copernicus Monument on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the mass skate concludes at around about 23:00. September’s event is the last of the ‘season’.
For details see: nightskating.waw.pl
DO! Calendar
Time for Chopin
Running now for over a year, the Time for Chopin initiative presents daily concerts at 6 p.m. inside the Old Gallery of the Association of Polish Art Photographers. The 50-minute recitals include the composer’s greatest mazurkas, polonaises, waltzes, preludes, etc. For tickets, schedule and further information, see: timeforchopin.com
The Order of Thing. The storeroom of Piotr B. Szacki
A storeroom exhibition, for those that don’t know, enables visitors to get familiarized with the integral functions of every museum, i.e. gathering, storing, cataloging, sharing, and compiling cultural goods. Grouping items much like they would be in a regular storeroom, this exhibition presents a collection of items relating to farming and animal husbandry. The State Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw, ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl
warsawinsider.pl
95
DO! Education listings preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702
85 00.
96
Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl
The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl
The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of
each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl
The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl
International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw
offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl
The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl
DO! Education listings Happy Montessori House The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socializing. Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, hmh.com.pl
Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological
& healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl
Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl
Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking preschool (16 months to 6 years
of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu
Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum fol-
lows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl
schools American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who
Celebrating
25 years of
British Education in Warsaw
www.thebritishschool.pl
warsawinsider.pl
97
DO! Education listings provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.
and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl
ul. Warszawska 202 (KonstancinJeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org
The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy
98
The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl
The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl
The Canadian School of Warsaw International
DO! Education listings Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadianschool.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl
International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish /
Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl
Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl
adult learning Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl
Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed
at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl
cooking classes Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool Find a gleaming kitchen inside a vast warehouse space inside Soho Factory. Mediterranean workshops are the primary foundation, though wine tasting and Polish cooking courses are also available. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl
Cook Up Studio Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Mexican cuisine, knife skills, steak and dessert, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work. Overseeing the kitchen action are some of the most biggest chefs in Warsaw. ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), cookup.pl
Food Lab Studio Comprehensively equipped,
the Food Lab Studio is consistently rated by natives as the most complete cooking school around. Run by the much-admired Grzegorz Łapanowski, recent workshops have included courses focused on knife-work, smoking and sauces. ul. Racjonalizacji 5, foodlabstudio.pl
Little Chef This children’s cooking school has conducted lessons for over 35,000 children since its inception in 2007. Classes are taught in Polish and English and are split into age groups: Mini Chef (ages 3-4), Little Chef (ages 4-7), Junior Chef (7-10) and Teenage Chef (10-16). ul. Rejtana 15, littlechef.pl
Polish Your Cooking “We aim to demonstrate that cooking is neither boring nor difficult,” say the team behind Polish Your Cooking. Workshops can also be organized for tourists, families and children’s parties and can be held in English, Spanish or Polish. ul. Długa 44, polishyourcooking.com
warsawinsider.pl
99
DO! Education listings
Head’s Up
Following headships in The Cayman Islands and Portugal, British Primary School of Wilanow Principal, Tom McGrath, returns to Warsaw where he started his international teaching and leadership career in the 1990s. He reflects on the changing face of international education in Warsaw and on the capital as a place to live.
Diploma were relatively unknown. There were also very few students with ambitions to study at foreign universities: this has changed radically over the last two decades. Finally, the recruitment of teaching staff was difficult as Warsaw had an undeserved reputation as a ‘hardship’ posting and it had a far more limited range of international flight connections. Today Warsaw is a work destination that is far more attractive than in the past.
WI: Any anecdotes from your previous sojourn in Warsaw. TM: I remember the best excuse for being late for school. There was a particular pupil, a charming girl, who was WI: It’s almost twenty years since you first arrived in Warsaw constantly late for school, sometimes by up to an hour. Her to teach at an international school. What was it like then? parents were contacted and we had an agreement that it TM: In 1998, Warsaw was a very different city. The town of wasn’t going to be repeated. However, a few weeks into the Wilanów was just green fields. Shopping centers in the style of new regime, the girl arrived to school at 11 a.m. ”My apologies, Galeria Mokotów had yet to open, the internet was in its infancy Mr McGrath”, she began, “ but we had to drive Sophia Loren to and the international nature of the city was very limited. I the airport.” I didn’t really have an answer to that one. remember my first Christmas in Poland and I was amazed to find that every bar, restaurant and cafe seemed to shut down WI: Finally, any advice for parents and pupils who are looking from Christmas Eve until New Year’s Eve; there was still a at international schools in Warsaw for this academic year? tradition of celebrating around the festive table in cramped TM: For parents, I suggest taking time to pick the school that apartments and this was quite alien to an Irishman. In many will suit your child; its philosophy and values are important and ways it was a less comfortable place, a little grittier but it was it is worth visiting the school in advance to see if it lives up to also more exotic and more original. Warsaw is now similar to its promotional material. External quality marks from profesmany other European capital cities. sional bodies such as Council of International Schools (CIS) and the Council of British International Schools (COBIS) are WI: And what about the changes you have seen in internahelpful indicators. Many schools offer trial days and these are tional schools? very helpful. Attending an international school is a wonderful TM: Twenty years ago international schools were quite small experience and I wish all pupils and teachers a happy, fruitful and were just finding their feet. The international community and successful year. had less choice and most school accommodation was in converted buildings rather than custom designed schools. There The British Primary School of Wilanów was also a limited awareness of what international education ul. Hlonda 12, bsw.com.pl entailed and programs such as the IGCSE or the IB
100 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
DO! Health & Beauty listings gyms Artis Wellness Club Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl
Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl
Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl
Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-tochild ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl
McFit A 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), mcfit. com
Quantum Fitness
A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl
Ride Warsaw Group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-speaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction. ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com
RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone. Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl
hair & beauty Hair a Porter A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), hair-a-porter. pl
Le Spa This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 55
spas & salons
ouch! DEPILACJA WOSKIEM
Ouch! Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32; ul. Bonifraterska 8, ouch.pl
PARDON MY FRENCH
manicure pedicure
Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of the lastest global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3. pardonmyfrench.pl
The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna 2, pedicureplace.pl
Quantum Clinic Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl
sport
Sinnet Club An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities. ul. Gołkowska 2, sinnet.pl
Warsaw International Triathlon Club Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running. warsawtriclub.com
W Pionie An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers. Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country, English-speaking instructors can be rustled up on request. ul. Nowowiejska 37B, wpionie.pl
swimming Holmes Place Premium All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl
RiverView Wellness Centre Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl
Nail & Beauty Bar A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. ul.
BGZ Arena / Velodrome Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. ul. Andrzeja 1
Wodny Park When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone.
Mokotowska 26
(Pruszków), bgzarena.com
ul. Merliniego 4, wodnypark.com.pl warsawinsider.pl
101
DO! Shopping Listings accessories
Bursztynek The largest amber jewelry store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amberrelated souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co
di Trevi Boutique Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl
comes to design. ul. Hoża 40 Schubert Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl
fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61
Hard Rock Cafe No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsawstamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look. ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl
Minty Dot Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance. ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl
Mo61 Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 allows customers to create their own scents under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!). ul. Mokotowska 61,
Joanna Klimas One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/ showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. ul. Nowolipki 2, joannaklimas.com
Moliera 2 Boutique Brands include: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com
Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com
Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl
reykjavikdistrict.com
Van Thorn Bespoke and made-tomeasure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering. ul. Sienna 39, vanthorn.pl
home Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands include: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi,
102 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
25 (Soho Factory)
Makutra To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. ul. Oleandrów 5, makutra.com
Mokotowska 71 Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this home design store just screams elegance, beauty and ultimate style. ul. Mokotowska 71, mokotowska71.pl
Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15,
mo61.pl
Pingle Optyk A collection of hand-selected designer eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it
are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular. ul. Mińska
Magazyn Praga A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment. Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here
Nap Bedtime accessories are the bread and butter here, but there’s also several bits for the kitchen as well: coffee makers by Tom Dixon, posh pans from Baumalu, arty saltshakers from Menu and tableware from Muubs. ul. Mysia 3
noon/noon Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand. ul. Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), noonnoon.pl
Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com
Reset Point A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks,
DO! Shopping Listings 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. ul. Puławska
Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana
48 sklep.resetpoint.pl
Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl
Secret Life (of Things) An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.
Atelier Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. ul.
ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, secretlife.pl
malls & department stores
Mokotowska 63, fb.com/ateliermokotowska63
Blind Concept Store From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution: eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday, killer heels from Vivienne Westwood, etc .
ul. Mokotowska 63/100
Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl
Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl
Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former
censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl
Vitkac Wolf Bracka Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens, the French fashion house Balmain. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl
Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl
The Amber Heart of Warsaw
warsawinsider.pl
103
DO! Accomodation Listings 5-Star Hotels
Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl
Marriott
Radisson Blu Sobieski
Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com
pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl
Regent Warsaw Hotel
Mecure Warszawa Centrum
ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com
ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl
ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com/hotelwarsaw
H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com
Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com
InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com
Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000
ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com
apartments
Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)
InterContinental
ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl
ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com
Novotel Warszawa Centrum
MaMaison Residence Diana
ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com
ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, mamaison.com/diana
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria
Polonia Palace Hotel
b&b
ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com
Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com
Between Us Bed & Breakfast
Westin
Warsaw Plaza Hotel
Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl
ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, warsawplazahotel.pl
ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), betweenus.eu
Boutique B&B
4-star hotels
3-star hotels
ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl
Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw
Hampton by Hilton
Castle Inn
Chmielna Guesthouse
ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com
ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com
Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, castleinn.pl
ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, chmielnabb.pl
w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl
Yellow Double-Decker Bus
Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way. Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites. A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one. Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.
5% DISCOUNT with this ad
Line approved by municipal authorities.
www.city-tour.com.pl
ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, hiexpress.com
Mercure Grand Warszawa Sheraton
Bristol Hotel
Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport
104 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
+48 500 033 414
DO! Services Listings car rental
storage
Avis Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, avis.pl
Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com
Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, sixt.pl
relocation companies Arkpol Specialists in international ‘door-to-door’ movals, with packaging, storage and customs clearance. ul. Słowikowskiego 27, arkpol.com
CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com
Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, euromove.pl
Więcej Miejsca Offers innovative, convenient, door-to-door storage & moving services. Order via their website or phone and the company’s driver will deliver sturdy plastic, tamper-proof bins for storing items such as clothes, books, documents, etc. Tel. 733 002 014, wiecejmiejsca.pl
Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com
services Domestina Four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142. Offering full service, they’ll make your bed to match the standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till your flat is spotless! Order and pay online via their Englishlanguage website. domestina.pl
networking InterNations Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Check their web for news on their monthly meetings. internations.org
International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month. iwgwarsaw.com Mums & Tots A volunteer group for mums
(and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. mumsandtots.pl
Professionals in Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted by Professionals in Warsaw – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. fb.com/ProfessionalsInWarsaw
Toastmasters International Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00. toastmasters.org.pl
Warsaw Social Helping expats integrate with the locals, Warsaw Social has grown to become the biggest and most active events group in Warsaw: not just drinks, but also games nights, defense classes, quizzes, etc. warsawsocial.com
WARSAW at your fingertips...
Check Out The Insider Online Designed to reflect the nature of a dynamic and energizing capital, the Online Insider brings you unique digital features such as our weekly blog, the latest news and views from the streets, as well as all the regular features and reviews found in Poland’s premier English-language magazine. See for yourself at: www.warsawinsider.pl
warsawinsider.pl
105
DO! Museums Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl
CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2,
Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), adventurewarsaw.com
Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’
Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa
ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl
50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl
Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,
Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art. Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.
csw.art.pl
ethnomuseum.pl
The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting – the composer’s pencil, a lock of hair and even his death mask – but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum
Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its
young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul.
graphic designers were nutty for neon. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org
Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry. mhw.pl
24/26
National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw. art.pl
6, polin.pl
The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best
Poster Museum in Wilanów With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the
106 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, postermuseum.pl
The Royal Castle in Warsaw Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl
Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza
Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl
majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.
The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co
Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl
Warsaw Guide
THE ESSENTIALS...
Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.
COMMUNISM
A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative. While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obieky Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).
MODERN WARSAW
T H E M U S E U M O F WA R S AW
THE OLD…
The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. In the square, the Museum of Warsaw is a great primer to the city. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently termed as being ‘the Polish Versailles’, the gardens are at their blooming best in summer. Elsewhere, kids and adults alike enjoy the Park Miniatur, a magical assembly of scale models of former landmarks.
WWII
Memories of WWII still hang heavy. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly
108 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre, and after take in the glorious dusk views on the rooftop garden of the University Library. Across the river, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours, while Dom Kereta – dubbed the world’s narrowest house – holds monthly open days (fb.com/ domkereta).
ART
rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. The Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber moments in Poland’s dark history.
Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that thrill non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their giant wall murals.
JEWISH WARSAW
PEOPLE
Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz installation that commemorates the deportations to Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin (named the European Museum of the Year in 2016) covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history.
Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw. The museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope, while the Chopin concerts held each Sunday in Łazienki are a local rite of passage. Now reopened following a thorough refit, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin.
Warsaw Guide
THE BUZZ SEPTEMBER THRILLS H A L A KO S Z Y K I
L I G H T AT N I G H T
Set to open in late September, the debut of Hala Gwardii could yet do the unmentionable and usurp the popularity of Hala Koszyki. But despite the obvious temptation to do so, drawing comparisons between the two stands to be futile. Gunning for a different crowd, Gwardii’s management have been keen to stress their commitment to engaging with all sectors of Warsaw. Have no doubt, this is an urban food concept the like of which Warsaw has yet to see. Since its inception last autumn, Hala Koszyki have endeavored to present themselves as more than a mere food hall. That objective is closer to being met with the imminent opening of Mindspace, a 3,000 sq/m co-working space set over three floors. Promising an ‘inspiring boutique design and an unparalleled level of service’, it’s certain to appeal to the city’s young, bold creatives. Better known by his facebook moniker, Light At Night, photographer Kuba Jurkowski will be holding a three-day workshop in September during which participants will study theory as well as heading outdoors to capture the city in all of its glimmering dusky glory. Aimed at beginners and intermediate-level photographers, classes will be conducted in Polish and are priced at zł. 400 per head. For details, e-mail: lightatnightkj@gmail.com It’s that time of year again! September sees the seventh installment of the bi-annual Warsaw Beer Festival, a three-day celebration of Poland’s craft movement. . For further details, see p. 74. Regarded as the city’s top techno event, Instytut return on September 30th for their second party of the year. Drawing thousands of hedonists from Warsaw and way beyond, tickets are available from biletomat.pl and are priced between zł. 125 to zł. 155. The ensuing lunacy will leave you spinning for days. The Nocny Market (fb.com/nocnymarket) will close the curtain on another successful year this September, and while the date has yet to be announced, if last year is anything to go by then that’s most likely to happen on the last weekend of the month. Occupying a chunk of disused train platform, it’s become an essential staple of young Warsaw foodies. See ya’ next year!
warsawinsider.pl
109
6
5
1
3 7 2 4
8
Stadion Narodowy
Żaryna
Kulskiego
Chodk iewicza
Biały K amień
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Insider Finds
SOUNDS OF THE SIXTIES
Produced at a time when Poland found itself stranded behind an Iron Curtain, Pocztówki Dźwiękowe (sound postcards) provided the public with an affordable alternative to pricey, hard-to-find vinyl records. Often featuring charmingly weird postcard-style artwork on one side, these laminated prints were engraved with analogue recordings that could in turn be played using clunky Karolinka and Bambino turntables. Usually containing just two completely unrelated recordings, they found themselves increasingly out-of-favor once cassette technology evolved. In recent times, however, the public’s appetite has returned making them a collectors item: seek them out for yourself in flea markets such as Kolo and Olimpia. Indelibly associated with the 60s and 70s, they’ve become a must have for nostalgists worldwide.
112 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2017
PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA
Browse Warsaw’s flea markets to discover the definitive sound of yesteryear...