The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996
#292
DECEMBER 2020 FEATURES: Find festive solutions at Elektrownia Powiśle this holiday season – p. 20
XMAS SPECIAL (Winter walks, breaks, gifts & more!) Looking Forward To 2021 – p. 28
INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723
10
ZŁ.
(VAT 8% INCLUDED)
Contents December 2020
Reviews: EAT!
First taste: India Gate – p.35
Taste of Poland – p.36 Taste of Home – p.38
WELL, I DUNNO’ about anyone else but I’m pretty the glad that the year is nearly over – it’s just a hunch, but I reckon you might be and all. Otherwise known as a complete and utter calamity, the only the thing that could have made 2020 worse would have been something nuclear going boom in the center of town – and there’s still time for that. On the bright side, we’ve still had it easier than some of our forefathers, and of that our interview with author Sue Smethurst is a timely reminder. There’s also much to look forward to, assuming that we finally emerge from this madness over the next few months – buried somewhere within, find our (rather meager) hopes for 2021. And, in the shorter-term, there’s the looming matter of Xmas: ho bloody ho. Despite feeling as festive as a prisoner-of-war, we’ve stuck on the customary reindeer jumper to bring you the best Christmas walks, food and gifts you’ll find. Enjoy, and dare I say it: have a happy (or at least, happier) New Year...
DRINK!
First sip: Cophi – P.51
Drinks At Home – p.52
Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl
Discover
PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT
Travel: Trips for 2021 – p.59
Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl
Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com
Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com
Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com
Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com
ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com
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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Ficowskiego 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; e-mail: insider@ warsawinsider.pl All information ©2020 Warsaw Insider.
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Add Some Hygge For Christmas
To top your home’s levels of hygge, look no further than Centrum Praskie Koneser
E
ven without pandemic era restrictions, it’s a fact of life that we spend more time at home in both autumn and winter – with short and gloomy days guaranteed, we tend to wake up when its dark, and finish work when the sun has already vanished. Therefore, creating a pleasant atmosphere at home is imperative, which is where the Danish concept of hygge comes into play. To explain hygge, one needs only to look to the Danish philosophy towards life. Based upon enjoying the little things, it assumes that in order to ensure happiness and peace of mind, that people must first strike a balance between their professional and personal lives. The latter, they’ve discovered, can be heavily influenced by the presence of atmospheric interiors filled with warm materials, atmospheric lights and fragrances with therapeutic powers. By applying these principles, the Danes have often been proclaimed as the happiest nation on earth.
A welcoming atmosphere inside your house or apartment is especially important in the autumn and winter seeing that we spend more time inside them during these periods. Enhancing the mood by subtle changes, even the smallest things can count – soft blankets and comfortable pillows, a nice cup of cocoa or a steaming mug of mulled wine; for lighting, replacing the strong glare of light bulbs with the natural glow of a fireplace or the flicker of some candles can also go a long way, as can the presence of some plant-life. In this respect, at Zielona Łodyga visitors will find all kind of plants that can induce good moods: sanseveria, winged flower, fern, herbaceous plant, dracaena, aloe, ficus and philodendron. Additionally, these also have the power to filter pollutants from the air. Of course, appropriate seasonal decorations – lights, chains or baubles – can also lift our mood and in Paper Concept hygge hunting customers will find an array
Hygge places an importance on the health of a person’s inner being, so in this regard a home SPA is the perfect answer when it comes to raising spirits
of handmade articles that will lend your living space a soothing edge and, even, stir your creativity. Aroma also plays a significant role in molding a sense of hygge, and it’s in Domkove.pl you’ll learn more about this. Specializing in Polish-made candles made from soy wax, over 150 compositions have been concocted inside their Warsaw base, including many that are ideal for the time: Cherry Pie, Autumn Pumpkin, Mulled Wine, Gingerbread or Honeycomb. Free from harmful fumes and smoke, these candles will do more than just induce an enchanting atmosphere, they’ll also work well in a massage thanks to nourishing properties contained in the wax that moisturize and smooth the skin while also imparting a pleasant scent on the skin. Hygge places an importance on the health of a person’s inner being, so in this regard a home SPA is the perfect answer when it comes to raising spirits. Protective masks are not good for the skin, often clogging the pores and irritating the skin. Additionally, home heating has a habit of not just drying the air, but the skin as well. To fight these twin menaces then look no further than the natural cosmetics
from Mydlarnia Cztery Szpaki. The brand’s only stationary store includes several cosmetic products, scrubs, oils and essences – all based on natural ingredients – that can help alleviate the aforementioned issues. Sticking to this theme of personal appearance, then do also visit the Eyebar beauty salon to take care of your eyebrows, eyelashes and nails. Worth attention, look at their Face Gym Lifting treatment which will improve the face’s bloody circulation and, when used regularly, can prevent excessive tension and the appearance of wrinkles. Highly popular, book in advance to avoid disappointment and stand reassured that all of their specialists adhere to the most stringent hygiene policies – moreover, the salon is disinfected after the departure of each client.
For more information, see: www.koneser.eu Parking from ul. Białastocka / Entry from ul. Ząbkowska & Białostocka / Parking 24/7, first hour free
NOWOŚĆ Teraz linia dostępna również w ELEGANCKIM ZESTAWIE PREZENTOWYM. Pomyśl o sobie, pomyśl o najbliższych.
B A K U C H I O L BioRetinol Effect
SIŁA BOTANICZNEGO RETINOLU
w pielęgnacji skóry dojrzałej. Szukaj w drogeriach
40+ 50+ 60+
In the News... CITY NEWS
Airport Stats Crash ENVIRONMENT
Coming Clean
The work of innogy Polska, two eco murals have sprung up around Warsaw that have been created by blasting off grime using high-powered water jets. Aimed at highlighting the damage pollutants can cause both buildings and our lungs, the results of the firm’s Clean Art project can be viewed on Puławska 30 and Jerozolimskie 121/130.
Latest figures released by Chopin Airport have made for grim reading, revealing a catastrophic fall in passengers since the pandemic first broke. Thus far, the country’s busiest airport has serviced only 3.43 million passengers, a 66.4% decrease from 2019. Of concern, October saw just 323,000 passengers through the doors.
80.9%
October’s fall in passenger figures compared to the same period the previous year.
PHOTOGRAPHS PRESS MATERIAL
WILDLIFE
Hi, I’m Arnie! Weighing under two kilos, Warsaw Zoo is celebrating the arrival of a tiny, new resident by the name of Arnold. Brought over from Bern, the cute recruit has been described as “incredibly shy”. A member of the mouse-deer family, the adorable creatures are regarded by boffins as the smallest hooved mammals on the planet and rarely grow more than 30 centimeters in height.
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In brief
ARCHITECTURE
The future of one of Warsaw’s great unfinished properties could finally be decided once and for all after the landmark building was put up for sale in November. Looking more like something out of Bladerunner, work on the huge concrete folly at Literacka 7 was initiated in 1999 but came to a halt three years later after its owners, Europol Gaz, pulled the plug after a planned gas pipeline running from Siberia to Western Europe was canned. Filled with non-standard facilities such as indoor tennis courts, a panoramic bar and a winter garden, this remarkable white elephant has stood resolutely empty for nearly two decades and could now be demolished. Occupying prime real estate in the city’s north, it’s likely that the 23,000 sq/m plot will be utilized for apartment blocks.
COMPETITION
Then There Was Light!
The switch on Warsaw’s newest neon looks set to be flipped on December 18th. Picked via an online vote that saw the public choose between three options, the winning design is the work of Anna Libera and Jan Strumiłło. The pair’s entry will debut on the side of the Chopin Museum and depicts a pair of hands moving up and down a piano keyboard. Organized by the Chopin Institute, the competitive process saw over 4,000 people partake in the poll.
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48.4
million złoty The starting price for the 23,000 sq/m plot. Agents handling the sale expect bids far in excess of this figure. PHOTOGRAPH TOP BY KEVIN DEMARIA, BOTTOM PRESS MATERIAL
So Long, Literacka?
GALLERY > PROTEST POSTER ART
Art Of The Revolution
W
arsaw again has proved itself a city of protest; undeterred by regulations banning mass gatherings, demonstrations have continued to mount since late October concerning amendments to the abortion law that have left women’s groups across the world outraged. But while thousands have continued to take to the streets of the capital to voice their discontent, others have reverted to the power of art, harnessing the country’s rich tradition of poster design in the process. This month, we celebrate some of the more inspiring works that have been made public.
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POSTERS SOURCED FROM POGOTOWIE.TUMBLR.COM
This month we explore the creative response that heralded changes to the abortion law…
16:00
Poland
NOW 17:00 18:00 19:00
Tuesday Wednesday
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FEATURE > CIT Y HISTORY
Remembering Zachwatowicz
W
idely credited as the driving force behind the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town, the post-war conservatory efforts of Professor Jan Zachwatowicz are to finally be honored by way of monument to be raised close to Pl. Zamkowy. Reduced to ashes and dust by the end of the war, the scale of devastation was such that even General Eisenhower could barely believe the scene that greeted him on his post-war visit. “I have seen many cities destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.” In fact, such was its severity plans were mooted to shift the entire capital permanently to Łódź; to leave Warsaw as a windblown heap of bricks – a permanent memorial to the vagaries of war. For the
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communists, though, the opportunity to rebuild Warsaw as a model socialist city was too good to refuse. The question was, how? In spite of many arguments for Old Town to be turned into an anonymous Socialist Realist-style housing district (other concepts included transforming it into a park ringed by war rubble), the communist party identified the value of rebuilding it from scratch. “The rebuilding of Warsaw was an act of national defiance,” wrote historian Norman Davies, and the reconstruction of Old Town “was shrewdly designed to establish the patriotic credentials of the post-war order.” In this, Jan Zachwatowicz was pivotal. Joined by Piotr Biegański, together the paired undertook a hefty project to list, categorize and preserve masonry that had survived intact – as a result,
PRESS MATERIALS
Seen as the man that saved the Old Town, a new monument is set to rise honoring the accomplishments of Jan Zachwatowicz.
“we cannot knock down what the working class have built”
about 15% of today’s Stare Miasto is comprised of original Gothic and Renaissance fabric. The work of the pair was also substantially aided by the enthusiasm of private homeowners who, as yet, had not had their homes appropriated by the government. It was on private initiative that the dwelling at Nowomiejska 10 became, in 1947, the first old town property to be completely rebuilt. At this stage, Old Town’s resurrection was still the subject of heated debate. According to one anecdote, what remained of the east side of the main market square was slated for demolition, allowing for unimpeded views of the river. On hearing this Zachwatowicz ordered workers to reconstruct the burgher houses, and pronto. His hunch that the nabobs and decision makers wouldn’t want to offend the
public by dismantling the finished article proved bang on. While visiting the Rynek, party leader Bołesław Bierut declared, “we cannot knock down what the working class have built.” While their supervising authorities ensured that the Old Town was never restored as faithfully as it could have been, its reconstruction was still something of a modern miracle. Using surviving documents and photographs as well as twenty or so vedute authored by Bernardo Bellotto as their template, the reconstruction was a breakneck affair whose first stage was officially completed on July 22nd, 1953. Later inducted into UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1980, today it is seen as an unyielding statement of Warsaw’s indomitable spirit, not a triumph of human will. And for that, the role of Jan Zachwatowicz should never be forgotten.
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CITY > MURALS
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Blast To The Past
Tytus Brzozowski’s latest mural is a thoughtful eulogy to Warsaw’s Jewish history…
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE ARTIST
A
dding a fourth work to his expanding portfolio of outdoor murals, Tytus Brzozowski has once again captivated the Warsaw public with his dreamlike interpretations of the city. This time, however, his latest project has seen the artist take a step back from his overtly surreal norm to instead pay something of a measured and sensitive tribute to the capital’s Jewish heritage. Funded as part of City Hall’s participatory budget, the latest work finds itself positioned on Próżna 12, one of the few fragments of pre-war Jewish Warsaw that survived the Nazis methodical annihilation of the Ghetto. Split into two distinct fields, the upper half of the mural depicts lost landmarks such as the Great Synagogue. “Crumbling to pieces, imploding and rising above the rest of Warsaw as just a memory, these structures hover over the bottom half that presents things that have stayed with us,” says Brozowski. Of these surviving elements, the artist presents such buildings as the Nożyk Synagogue and St. Augustine’s Church. “This was left symbolically standing over the sea of ruins,” says Brozowski. Also keen to express the bustling, busy nature of the area, the mural is further enriched by the kind of shop signs that once adorned the district, as well as numerous figures in period attire. “I wanted to reflect the character of old Jewish Warsaw,” Brzozowski tells the Insider; given the mural’s success, this he has accomplished.
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Christmas 2020
Walk This Way For the best Christmas strolls, wrap up warm and follow our lead...
ŁAZIENKI PARK
In The City Filled with secret alcoves and Greco-Roman inspired elements, the imperial majesty of Łazienki Park is especially pronounced on a crisp winter’s day. Don’t miss Agrykola, a dipping street lit with pre-war gas lamps and seasonal overhead illuminations, and after check the Finnish Houses, a quaint timber
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village where chimney smoke wafts over quiet, muddy lanes.
For Traditionalists
There will be light! Though more modest than the years preceding, Warsaw will once again be bathed in the glimmer of Xmas illuminations. Set to be revealed on the first weekend of December, the most spectacular will
SHUTTERSTOCK (3)
Park Prowling
LEFT SIDE OF THE WISŁA
run from the xmas tree on Pl. Zamkowy and down Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy Świat: bring the camera!
Alternate Routes
Praga has become an incubator for grass roots artistic expression, with the most visible evidence of this provided by the large-format murals that have been splashed onto many of its disintegrating tenements. For inspiration, check the interactive map at: puszka.waw.pl.
River Rambles
The pristine promenade lining the left side of the Wisła becomes a seething cauldron of chaos in summer, but come December it promises quiet,
soothing relief from the grind of the center. Assuming we get a proper winter, the sight of ice floes drifting down the river makes a beautiful sight.
Footsteps of History
It’s already known that the traditional Christmas Market snaking its way by the Old Town walls won’t take place this year, but it remains likely that the little cabins selling piping hot wine will make an appearance. Even if not, walking the historic center’s cobbled alleys is a joy when the windows are frosted and the roofs gently dusted in a powdering of snow.
KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIEŚCIE
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Christmas 2020
Out of Town Historic Hikes
Found thirty five clicks south of Warsaw, the redbrick ruins of pocket-sized Czersk Castle positively glow under the steely winter skies. Perched over rolling riverside terrain, enjoy sweeping views over the surrounding fields from the ramparts of this 14th century castle.
The Unexpected
Surrounded by tangled forests, the areas around Otwock are pitted with intricate wooden villas, many of them abandoned and decrepit and half-eaten by nature. For intrepid explorers, the former Zofiówka asylum offers no shortage of spectral thrills.
Millionaires Row
Built as Poland’s first ‘garden city’, Podkowa Leśna is just a 30 minute drive south-west of Warsaw. Visitors are rewarded by a lush, affluent town whose tree-lined avenues are studded with the grand gated mansions of Poland’s top 1%. It’s an atmospheric walk that’s best appreciated in a light December mist.
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KAMPINOS
Nature Trails
In the shape of Kampinos, Warsaw has a stunning nature reserve right on its doorstep – for something escapist, book a Zhivago-style horse-drawn carriage around the spaghetti-like woodland trails and bring a flask of mulled wine to defrost after.
Follow The Bear
The scale of the 19th century military stronghold at Modlin makes it ideal for windy, wintry walks, but to truly add an Arctic twist follow the trail of animal statues that have been set up to honor Baśka, a polar bear that once served with the garrison here in the 1920s. For more: baskamurmanska.pl.
CZERSK CASTLE
MODLIN FORTIFICATIONS
SHUTTERSTOCK (3)
“Warsaw has a stunning nature reserve right on its doorstep”
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Christmas 2020
CERAMICS Based in a characterful workshop on Tamka, Fenek’s bowls, mugs, vases and pots have become known for their one-of-a-kind splatter finishes and quirky illustrations. Founded in 2014 by two uni friends, their products adorn many of Warsaw’s trendiest cafes and restaurants. Fenek fenek.info
Made In Poland Poland’s booming creative scene has meant good news for those hunting Polish gifts that extend beyond sheepskins from the Tatras or tacky bits and pieces with folksy motifs…
CANDLES Lamps, cosmetics and waxes can be found at Domkove, but the real attraction are their handmade, sy wax candles. Available from zł. 40, the choice of 150+ include such winners as mango & lime or orange & chili. And that’s before you get to ‘Grandma’s Garden’, ‘On The Seashore’ and ‘Caribbean Rum’. Domkowe domkove.pl
For luxury Polish streetwear look no further than MISBHV, a trending brand whose recent collaboration with Reebok has been called “the ultimate 80s throwback”. Worn by Bella Hadid and Rihanna, the subversive aesthetic of the label is getting increasing exposure abroad. Available online and at Vitkac. misbhv.com
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PRESS MATERIALS
FASHION
READING Enhance your coffee table with this beautifully photographed homage to the concrete post-war architecture of PRL Poland. Produced by the Poznań-based Zupagrafika, and featuring detailed, bi-lingual captions, find it tail-ended with cutout, ready-to-assemble models of Poland’s brutalist wonders. Available for zł. 98. Brutal Poland zupagrafika.com
GAMING
PHOTOGRAPHY
Known for The Witcher series of video games, international anticipation is building as this Warsaw-based developer looks set to roll-out Cyberpunk 2077 on December 10th. Pre-order online, and while you’re there browse around their merch section to find streetwear, poster art and model figures. CD Projekt Red en.cdprojektred.com
Best known by his digital handle Light At Night, the stunning images of Kuba Jurkowski are available in a variety of formats and sizes with prices ranging from zł. 60 to zł. 1,000. Specializing in magical shots of sunset Warsaw, these pictures are a striking way to embolden your walls. Light At Night kubajurkowski.com
SCULPTURE It’s not just street art that defines the streets of Praga, but the cute blue angels authored by Marek Sułek. Now, they’re all yours to buy in the artist’s Koneser gallery along with other wacky pieces such as stone jewelry, jolly ceramics and vivid, vibrant paintings. Art Sułek Space koneser.eu
SCENTS Forego the big brand scents and instead head to this Mokotowska ‘perfume laboratory’. Workshops guided by some of the best noses in Poland enable the creation of your own one-off scent, though readymade items include aftershaves, perfumes, candles and home fragrances. Mo61 mo61.pl
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Christmas 2020
Feeling Festive? Epitomizing the new live-work-play urban model, no other launch turned more heads in 2020 than Elektrownia Powiśle. But beyond its sceney food and drink concepts, rich and unique retail offer, swanky offices and beautiful setting in a restored
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power plant, much of its pulling power has been based on a varied seasonal schedule that’s right for the time. And with Christmas in the gunsights, that means stunning decorations and a festive ambiance throughout.
Eight of the best! Elektrownia Powiśle present their choices for a Xmas gifts with character
Moleskine Notebook Blend Collection A byword for quality, join the Moleskine appreciation society by exploring their limited Blend collection. Touting beautiful covers made from jacquard fabric, each notebook is a joy to touch and follows the classic Moleskine format of containing 240 lined pages within dimensions of 13 x 21 cm.
Wool Pocket Square A great addition to any smart-casual look, give a twist to your outfit with a wool pocket square. Harmonizing well with sports jackets, woollen pocket squares also pair perfectly with ties, bow ties or just on their own! Klasyczne Buty (zł. 99)
Bracelet
Beanie
Inspired by the tireless bee, this artsy, handcrafted bracelet from the Apis collection features a wide cuff with a hexagonal pattern and a tiny symbolic bee created using 3D printing technology – and check out its smoothly changing texture that varies from satin to high gloss. Orska (zł. 480)
Hand-knitted in Kazimierz Dolny by Elementy’s collaborative partner, Grandma Stefania, find these beanies available in five colors. The manual work involved ensures each hat is unique while the use of blended Alpaca and Peruvian sheep wool guarantees a warm, quality finish! Elementy (zł. 299)
Metropolitan Skin Guard Lotion
Dolce & Gabbana X Smeg Electric Kettle
Designed to protect the skin against a variety of environmental stressors, this hydrating, light cream formula fortifies the skin with its natural African shea butter. Natural rhubarb root, parsley and sorrel leaf extracts reduce the appearance of wrinkles and even the skin tone. Alba 1913 (zł. 200)
This retro-style electric kettle sees D&G joining creative forces with Smeg to present Sicily Is My Love; decorated with Sicilian motifs and colorful patterning, the sleek stainless steel body has a soft-opening lid for safe and simple refills.
Wariackie Papiery (zł. 97)
Diptyque Baies Candle Featuring the aroma of roses and blackcurrant leaf, like all Diptyque candles the Baies is produced using a 12-step manual process ensuring each one has a unique wax composition – for 60-years they’ve been the best scented candles in the world! Galilu (zł. 130)
Card Holder Perfect for holding notes as well as bank and business cards, this card holder features as part of Balagan’s Scraps Collection: made from offcuts of quality leather originally earmarked for shoes and bags, this collection sets a new standard for small accessories. Balagan Studio (zł. 59)
Premium Home (zł. 2,265)
ul. Dobra 42 (Enter parking from Leszczyńska Street), elektrowniapowisle.com
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COLOR YOUR WINTER! Your winter must-haves direct from Mandel‌
At Mandel, the big news for FW20 has been the debut of the 2020 BAG, a handbag designed for the challenges of the pandemic: allowing people to disinfect their hands before reaching inside, as well as quick and easy access to masks and suchlike, this neat, asymmetrical bag averts the need to dig through all of your possessions while also referencing a cool 70s style and fulfilling all the regular functions that one would expect. Also added to the Mandel family is the HOBO BAG, a crescent-shaped handbag to be worn over the shoulder. Tilting open, in typical Mandel
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style it includes compartments for phones, cards, keys and ensures that everything is organized and always at hand. Adding life to the traditional black and brown colors of the season, we’ve also introduced vibrant orange shades to brighten the mood. Further, as always with our collections, Mandel offer a range of jewelry chains to add a decorative element and replace the usual straps and tassles found on bags. Mandel mandel-store.com
CHRISTMAS IN A GLASS!
Quality cosmetics in the sleekest of glass…
As a responsible producer, MOKOSH encourages people to give cosmetic gifts in glass vessels. Natural, Polish-made cosmetics are our specialty, though the aromas and packaging are appreciated way beyond domestic borders. Expanding our reach to men as well as women, our eco-minded gifts are of the highest quality with the minimalist glass designs containing this season’s must-have hits: lifting masks with bamboo, limited edition raspberry balm, perfumes and a deep-resin line featuring green coffee with tobacco. Soothing by their nature, our high quality products are frequently found in five star hotels and prestigious beauty salons and spas, with all of our ready-to-use gift sets available online. With Christmas in mind, users can also create their gift sets using the ‘pack for gift’ option. Mokosh mokosh.eu
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A BRAND FOR THE TIMES
Born from a desire to return harmony to our lives, look to Lekko to restore your inner balance! Slow down and listen to yourself – finding the path to inner peace isn’t all that hard. That’s our philosophy at Lekko; creating the safest and most effective products to aid this journey, we believe that strength comes from nature and should be derived directly from it. That’s why our oils are made from the highest quality crops and sourced from farms run in accordance with the principles of sustainable agriculture. In this, we’re proud of our transparency – independently verified by labs as far afield as Los Angeles, our products have been subjected to a rigorous approval process to ensure that we bring you only mother nature’s best! Of note, Lekko offer four specialized oils that are strong but gentle and sharpen the senses. Using CBD extracts, we strongly focus on concepts of self-care and wellbeing which is why we aim to create a grassroots initiative that engages people in its comprehensive approach to physical and mental health. Lekko lekko.com
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SPA LUXURY AT YOUR FINGERTIPS FOREO delivers a premier experience straight to your home‌ We all know spas are just awesome! They make us feel healthy and beautiful and that little bit special. But imagine if you could own the exact same beauty-tech treatments and products that pamper the stars? The kind that leave you with a dazzling glow and a world-is-mine feeling. With the FOREO UFO 2 device you can. Featuring T-sonic facial massaging, full spectrum LED light therapy, fast cooling and heating as well as optimized app treatment, UFO 2 is the most superior option when it comes to replicating a world-class spa. Using hyper-infusion technology to drive the essence from the microfiber masks deeper into your face to feed the nutrients below the surface, it all adds up to make the most comprehensive mask treatment on the planet‌ and all in less than two minutes! FOREO foreo.com
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IT ALL STARTS WITH THE BROWS‌
Because being beautiful begins with the brows!
To get your eyebrows looking flawless, look no further than Warsaw’s network of Eyebar salons. Thanks to the unique five-step Eyebar System, find yourself with naturally styled brows in just thirty minutes. Matching the perfect methods to each individual client, customers leave with clear eyebrows that can last for weeks thanks to Eyebar System HD and its use of powdered henna. For something lighter, then Eyebar System Color is ideal, while Eyebar System Control is recommended for those that wish to nourish their brows and give them a wider appearance. For the perfect brows book online to receive 30% off your first visit! Eyebar eyebar.pl
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WHICH TEA WORKS BEST FOR BETTER IMMUNITY? The body’s immunity should be systematically strengthened. The level of immunity and the condition of our body largely determines whether viruses and bacteria end up being treated with diseases. It is therefore worth thinking about preparing the body to fight infections. Covid 19 and the state of the pandemic have also shown how important it is to prioritize health high on the grocery list for food and drink. One of the mentioned methods of immunity is properly brewed SOTI Natural tea. The Japanese way to boost immunity is a ready to drink bottled tea - why bottled? In this way, we guarantee that the process of this tea is so precise that all antioxidants: catechins, polyphenols are preserved. SOTI Natural is a 100% natural brewed tea without sweeteners, without preservatives, 100% sugar free in a convenient bottle from recycled materials or paper can. Antioxidants, polyphenols, catechins in SOTI Natural not only eliminate the release of radicals, but also strengthen our immune system. We can find the antioxidants in a small amount in vegetables and fruits, so it’s worth reaching for a bottle where we have a guarantee of much as 340 mg of antioxidants in 100 ml. SOTI Natural is available in many variants, including rooibos with ginger, mint tea with lemon grass, or black tea with lemon peel. All SOTI Natural ready to drink teas are available to order from the online store: SHOP.SOTINATURAL.COM with promo code: IMMUNITY and also selected in stores such as Carrefour, Auchan, Organic Farma Zdrowia stores, Orlen stations and many other stores.
Order online today: SHOP.SOTINATURAL.COM
FEATURE > LOOKING FORWARD
PLEASE REBOOT That was a quite a year, wasn’t it. No two ways about it, 2020 was an unmitigated catastrophe, and not just in the hospital wards and cabinet departments but across every industry you could possibly care to think of (apart from, maybe, gravedigging). But enough of looking back, it’s time to look forward – because things can only get better, right? With that in mind, we bring you all the bits and bobs that we can’t wait to happen once the calendar resets.
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SPORT
CULTURE
For the Insider, no live sport has been the equivalent of being locked in a medieval chastity device. On the football-front, can Legia retain their league title? Can Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, ZŁY, maintain their charge up the leagues? And can Polonia, spurred by their new French owner, climb out of the doldrums and finally reward their loyal fanbase? Even if the answer is a no, just being in a crowd is something we miss. But most of all, to see the National Stadium being used for sport – rather than as a makeshift hospital – will really be enough.
The complete cancelation of cultural life demonstrated just how spoiled we’ve all been the last few years – and don’t we half miss what is kept out of reach. Already plans are afoot to visit every museum and gallery in the city and gorge on the culture till we can gorge no more. Never has the annual Night of the Museums been more keenly anticipated. And concert-wise, who can’t wait to see the line-up of the Orange Warsaw Festival or the promised arrival of such acts as Iron Maiden, Tricky and Andrea Bocelli.
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FEATURE > HANDMADE
FOOD & DRINK It’s not just the giants of industry that have been left counting the cost of covid. Largely built by little people with big ambitions, Warsaw’s food and drink sector has been left on the ropes after receiving blow upon blow since this madness began. With no-one truly knowing when the gastro-scene will be reactivated, even bestcase scenarios promise a raft of further closures. So what happens next? For those that do make it through – and for those speculators waiting in the wings to enter the market – exciting opportunities beckon. In the meantime, questions marks are popping up like toast. Can fine dining ever recover? Will the city center remain hollowed out for years? And will this all signal a new era in which owners seek to minimize overheads and go for low-cost models that favor simplistic operations? One thing’s for certain; after all the deprivation and distancing, this summer should see a party to remember – providing anywhere is left standing...
CITY LIFE Defined by its uncomfortable silence and creeping sense of dread, nowhere was the paranoia that’s reigned more evident than on the streets of the center. Usually presenting itself in a cacophony of noise and a big bang of chaos, its post-apocalyptic stillness was one of the eeriest spectacles we’ve seen. While the shift towards ‘staying in the neighborhood’ and home-working has gone past the point of no return, seeing the center return to life will be very much welcomed. And who on earth thought we’d miss both the tourists and the business travelers so much? Come back, please, and make the city feel complete.
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A NEW LOOK
PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY KAROL ŚCIBOR, OPPOSITE PRESS MATERIAL
Like every year – yes, even this one – the city will continue to reinvent itself from a physical point of view. Beyond the obvious (i.e. the launch of the EU’s tallest skyscrapper, the Varso Tower), work looks set to finally begin on Pl. Pięc Rogów in the center, while other investments include a space age refit of Zachodnia and the launch of Art Norblin. With the nearby Browary Warszawskie also set to be fully-completed, these ambitious developments should lend the city the kind of dynamic edge we missed during lockdown.
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BOOKS > THE FREEDOM CIRCUS
The Greatest Escape Sue Smethurst, author of The Freedom Circus, talks to the Insider about her epic family tale of Holocaust survival…
W
ell-known to post-war Australian TV audiences as Sloppo the Clown, few people that tuned in to see this popular entertainer perform could have guessed the tragic story concealed by all of the slapstick and make-up. Played by Michael ‘Kubush’ Horowitz, the roots of Sloppo’s story lay in Warsaw where Horowitz worked as a clown for the celebrated Staniewski Brothers Circus. Having met
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his wife-to-be, Mindla, on ul. Muranowska in the winter of 1936 after she’d tripped and hurt her ankle, the two embarked on a whistle-stop romance that quickly led to marriage. With their lives subsequently ripped apart by the war, the story follows Mindla’s incarceration in a filthy NKVD jail, the Jewish couple’s reunion and their daring escape from under the noses of the Nazis. Following their trail to Melbourne via the Moscow Circus, the mountain paths of Persia and a Polish village in the depths of Uganda, the twists and turns are made all the richer by the book’s vivid assembly of eccentric characters: for instance Mimi, the cigar-lighting chimp, and Faval, a whisky-drinking, chain-smoking dwarf armed with the impressive ability to curse in four languages. Though thick with thrills and adventure, these are never allowed to mask the suffering and pain that courses through the pages. Written in the third person through the eyes of the protagonists, much of Smethurst’s information was gleaned from direct conversations with Mindla towards the end of her life. Cajoling her with gifts such as extravagant nail polishes and wedges of cake from her favorite St. Kilda bakery, Smethurst was allowed an unrestricted glimpse into Mindla’s past. “For years there’d been the feeling in the family that we
“Though thick with thrills and adventure, these are never allowed to mask the suffering and pain that courses through the pages.” couldn’t broach the subject of the Holocaust with Nanna Mindla,” says Smethurst. “She herself said, ‘No good comes from mourning what we cannot change.’ But for all that, perhaps the biggest reason for her silence on the subject was that she just never thought her story was anything special, at least when compared to the other Holocaust survivors she was friends with.” Special, however, is precisely what her story proves to be. Wasaw Insider: In interviews you often describe Mindla as the life of the party. How do you think her experiences shaped her? Sue Smethurst: She certainly didn’t let them defeat her, if fact, if anything they drove her to overcome; she refused to give in to grief. When I began to interview her, she recalled significant moments very clearly, as if they happened yesterday: the moments of great emotion in her life such as meeting Kubush, the outbreak of war and being jailed. She very clearly recalled her baby being taken from her arms. It amazed me that this grief had been sitting under the surface for all of these years. She never spoke about what happened to her, it was only when I began to ask questions that this came to the surface. Mindla passed away in 2016 – how do you think she would have reacted to the book?
I think Nanna would say “it’s bewdivul” in her wonderful hybrid Polish / Russian / Australian accent! However, in the course of the research I discovered some tragic bookends: that two of her brothers had in fact survived when she believed her family had all perished. None of them were ever reunited. I’m not sure how she would’ve coped with that news, I’d imagine it would have been terribly upsetting to learn that you’d lived your entire life believing all of your family were dead when in fact they were not. For people whose knowledge of Australian TV doesn’t go beyond Neighbours, could you tell us briefly about both The Tarax Show and Sloppo the Clown? The Tarax Show was one of the first show on Australian TV. It was shown in black and white of course, and became hugely popular. Families would set their clocks so as not to miss an episode. The performers became huge, and one public appearance drew something like 30,000 people. Sloppo was the name Pop gave his character and he performed in a duo with Boppo the Clown, played by Norm Brown. Was there a defining moment during the research and writing process that you specifically treasure? Spending the time with Nanna Mindla was very special and I am
truly privileged to have had that opportunity. Equally, my research trip to Poland last year was also incredibly powerful. We followed in my husband’s grandparents footsteps and went to places like the prison in Białystok where Nanna was held and visited the Polish Circus school at Julinek where we found photos of his grandfather performing in his younger years. It was wonderful to make a connection with Poland and it deepened our understanding of our family heritage. You visited Poland towards the very end of the project, could you expand on your time here? It was absolutely integral to the book to visit as it gave everything scope; to be able to walk the streets, feel the history, to see where the circus building was on Ordynacka or the tannery where Nanna worked… All of that detail added a richness to my understanding. Furthermore, I was very well received and found people really willing to help; for instance, Polin and the Jewish Historical Institute weren’t just fantastic places to visit, the academics we met in these institutions proved essential in furthering my research. I absolutely loved Warsaw and can’t wait to return! The Freedom Circus is available internationally on a variety of reputable platforms such as Amazon, etc.
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GURU REDEFINES
MODERN INDIAN CUISINE
Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.
Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604
Eat! First Bite
India Gate Al. Jerozolimskie 87, indiagate.pl
PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA
THE SPICE OF LIFE? Reckless as it is to use take-aways and deliveries as a gauge of a restaurant, under the current circumstances you’re just going to have to forgive us. But despite the partial lockdown, one place has still managed to create a buzz among curry-loving expats, and that’s India Gate: deviating from the more standard Indian menus (if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ’em all), order here for self-proclaimed “immunity boosting” dishes such as prawn garlic curry; lamb and spinach deewani; or chicken in a
rich mango sauce. Specializing in delicious southern Indian dishes, find also a number of non-standard curries and starters including fluffy lentil pancakes and dosa stuffed with cheese. If there’s a complaint, then it’s the chef’s reticence to go completely psychotic when it comes to assaulting us with spice. Nonetheless, this is the most exciting Indian opening of the year, and hand’s down the first place we’re visiting when this madness all ends. Is that a recommendation? Sure is.
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Eat! Roundup
BARON THE FAMILY
MIĘSNY
THE TASTE OF POLAND
From mega markets to tiny walk-in stores via restaurants remarketed as local delicatessens, we bring you our favorite places for Polish goods and produce.
baronthefamily.pl Long-term readers will be accustomed to seeing us utilize these pages to extol the greatness of chef Aleksander Baron. Well, he’s only done it again. Click to this maverick chef’s online store for a comprehensive range of top notch produce ranging from his creative kimchis, meats (recommended: gingerbread sausage), Polish-bred caviars, regional ciders and assorted jarred goodies and pickled bits and pieces. The sets and baskets are a perfect catch-all solution for holidays.
BIOBAZAR
ul. Wołoska 3 First founded in 2010, BioBazar pre-dated Warsaw’s love of food-from-
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the-source and triggered a city-wide trend that’s shown no sign of slowing. Though imitations have come thick and fast, none have matched this original in either size or scope: fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... you name it, they’ve got it. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here in this legendary farmers’ market.
CUKIERNIA STARY DOM
ul. Puławska 104/106 One of Warsaw’s great traditional restaurants enjoys a rock solid reputation for its mains but an even stronger one for its cakes and desserts in its pastry cafe next door. It’s from here you’ll leave weighed under by old
school pączki, fruity flans, blackcurrant buns and vanilla eclairs. But to complete your Xmas dinner table, look no further than their cakes: often elaborate creations that use traditional, fresh and seasonal produce.
DOBRE Z LASU
ul. Grójecka 127 Seeking to promote organic, natural and healthy foods sourced from the forests of Poland, Dobre Z Lasu’s extensive offer covers eccentric syrups, dried and marinated mushrooms, juices made from such ingredients as wild garlic, quince or rosehip, acorn cookies and hard-to-find herbs. Above all, come for game: for example, wild boar burgers, haunches of deer and venison stews. It’s ideal for winter.
PRESS MATERIALS
BARON THE FAMILY
Eat! Roundup
THE FARM
FORTECA KREGLICCY
ul. Zakroczymska 12 Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant and blogging scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobellos from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga. Even the bottom-feeding carp here tastes bang on.
HALA MIROWSKA
Pl. Mirowski 1 As popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding walking sticks like sabers, the accessibility of its price tags is bettered only by the rich bounty of produce that awaits. In the post-war units attached to the core building, Darek at No. 17 has amassed a legendary reputation for his edible flowers; at 115, cheeses and handmade sausages are the order of
HALA MIROWSKA
the day; whilst Pani Anna at 114 has been called the Queen of Mirowska for her peerless skills handling a butcher’s cleaver. Your best bet is to pencil in a full afternoon here.
MIĘSNY
ul. Walecznych 64 More than one of the Insider’s favorite restaurants, Mięsny’s dual role as a butcher-deli has made them an invaluable stop for those that demand nothing but the best. Beyond a spectacular choice of Polish-raised meats, look out also for pantry must-haves such as Kashubian butter, Baltic herring, homemade ketchup and traditional mountain sheep cheese. Oh, and you might want to know that the pastrami is out of this world.
THE FARM
ul. Mokotowska 8 This upmarket restaurant-deli hybrid does nothing if not treat its produce with reverence. Fulfilling an almost
ambassadorial role for Poland’s northern lake district, discover a range of Mazurian and Warmian cheeses, honey, jams, as well as organic lemonades, Polish fermentations, freshly-baked bread and more unexpected international elements such as Icelandic licorice sea salt. It’s the meat that grabs the headlines though, and here gourmet Polish cuts compete against certified Kagoshima and Wagyu beef.
VEGE BISTRO / STARA LODZIARNIA
ul. Francuska 48 This super tiny, hidden treasure features year-round ice cream produced outside Warsaw by the owner’s parents (and to a family, pre-war recipe), as well as homemade cakes and flans with a heavy seasonal twist. Root around also for Polish bio products such as pear chutney, zucchini ketchup, red cabbage kimchi and thick vegan lard.
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Eat! Roundup NOSTALGIA
KOKO & ROY DELI
THE TASTE OF HOME
AMERICAN CANDY SHOP
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SAMIRA
PRESS MATERIALS
If covid has put the can on your Christmas trip home, then let the following stores and delis throw a lifeline your way…
Eat! Roundup AMERICAN CANDY SHOP
ul. Puławska 67/43 Calorie counters: leave now. As the name says, the onus is on American items, but there’s still copious room for Brit, German, Canadian, Japanese and Australian brands as well – and it’s not just sweets and chocolate, but also crisps, fizzy drinks, lollies and other perfect stocking fillers. And yep, Xmas products like Hershey’s Sant Hat Kisses are already in-store.
BIANCA
fb.com/biancacheese Run by Puglia-raised Francesco and his Polish partner Kaja, hit up Bianca for mozzarella that has won the heart of Warsaw. Pairing recipes gleaned from their time in Italy with the best Polish milk they could find, the results have floored the foodie public.
INDIAN HOUSE CENTRUM
ul. Ogrodowa 1A Think you can do better than Warsaw’s curry houses? Stacked to bursting with vegetables, herbs and spices, this is where to stock up on everything from fresh green chilies to banana leaves, pickles, chutneys, lentils, ghee and oils.
KOKO & ROY DELI
kokoandroydeli.com Koko & Roy may have disappeared from the map as a restaurant and bar (boo!), but their online deli lives on (yay!). Choice is small but well-thought out and includes modern NYC-inspired classics such as bacon & bourbon jam, smokey vegan chili, corn & potato chowder and their classic BBQ pulled pork.
KUCHNIE ŚWIATA
Various locations, kuchnieswiata. com.pl A familiar name with most expats, this veteran chain presents tinned and packaged food and drinks from across the globe. If you enjoy the sweeter side of life, there’s plenty of sugary highs.
MĄKA I WODA
ul. Chmielna 13A One of Warsaw’s favorite Italian restaurants also promises a fab deli selection of imported products: DOP San Marzano tomatoes, Callipo tinned tuna, flour, rice and Taggiasche olives. Also available: a series of ready-to-cook pastas.
MR. GREEK
ul. Londyńska 16 We need no excuse to big-up our favorite Greek restaurant in town; aside from continuing a take-away / delivery service during these covid times, swing by to find the dining tables now set aside for an impromptu deli offer of olive oils, herbs, chutneys, etc.
NOSTALGIA
ul. Złota 64/66 Featuring – but not limited to – the food of Ukraine, Russia and Belarus, Nostalgia brings out all the cliches with plenty of salted fish, grains and vodka. The frozen pielmieni are a highlight.
PAPRYKA
ul. Zwycięzców 22 The specialty of this little slice of Hungary? The clue’s in the name. Extending beyond paprika related products, head here for a stonking selection of salami and Mangalica items as well as a beautiful choice of Hungarian chocolate.
PICCOLA ITALIA
Various locations Dominating the market for Italian items is Piccola Italia, an impressive network of stores throughout Warsaw. Come here for wine, cold cuts, pastas, pizza bases, chocolate, cheese, olives and about three million other things imported from Italy.
RUMUŃSKIE SMAK
ul. Puławska 98 Specializing in Romanian products, this delicatessen come with a choice of over 600 items. Among these find
jams, preserves, cheese, cured meats, confectionary and alcohol – artisan cider included! Bestsellers include spicy Mici sausages.
RUSIKO
Al. Ujazdowskie 22 This award-winning Georgian restaurant is getting through the pandemic by selling excellent wines from the Kakheti region and frozen khinkali. And if you really want to show your support, pick up one of their lavish, decorative rugs as well!
SAMIRA
ul. Powsińska 64A Present on the Warsaw market since 1995, Samira have become the go-to source for Middle Eastern products whether they be preserves, tea and coffee, spices, herbs, pastes and sauces.
SKŁAD BANANÓW
ul. Postępu 5 The range at this multi-ethnic deli is admirable and we just love the chilies and fresh tortillas. But find also products from Korea, Africa, Thailand, Japan, Vietnam, etc. The list could carry on over the page.
TAHINA
ul. Wilcza 26 Brilliant in their role as a Middle Eastern vegan restaurant, further points are scored for a deli offer that covers Arabian pickles, hallumi cheese and pasty treats such as hummus, lebneh, mohamarra and baba ganoush.
THE BRITISH SHOP
ul. Emilii Plater 8 Improving with each year, the offer includes bacon, sausages and scotch eggs from Waitrose, a smattering of Pieminister products, stacks of M&S items (cottage pie!), and a slew of British temptations such as Scampi Fries. And if you can’t find it already, then they offer a Bring For Me service.
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Eat! listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.
african – p. 40 author’s cuisine – p. 40 chinese – p. 41 comfort food – p. 41 desserts – p. 42 fine dining – p. 42 food halls – p. 44 french – p. 44 georgian – p. 44 greek – p. 44 indian – p. 44 italian – p. 45 japanese – p. 45 korean – p. 45 latin & spanish – p. 45 mexican – p. 46 middle eastern – p. 46 polish (modern)– p. 46 polish (classic)– p. 48 scandinavian – p. 49 steak houses – p. 49 russian & ukrainian – p. 50 vegan – p. 50 vegan – p. 50
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african
hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill. ul. Jazdów 1B
TAKO AFRICAN KITCHEN
MOD
African restaurants have traditionally floundered in Warsaw, but there’s no danger of that happening at Tako, a cheerful venture whose trump calling card is an exotic menu offering spicy onion and mustard stews, meat pies, fried plantains and other delicious diversions. ul. Wagów 20
author’s cuisine ALE WINO
You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. ul. Mokotowska 48
KLONN
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas,
An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul. Oleandrów 8
RESTAURACJA FORTY
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set within a Tsarist era complex who battered fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies and think tanks, the interiors aren’t shabby either with the huge space filled with checkered flooring, industrial girders, elaborate lighting arrangements and tables made from retrieved barn doors. The menu is where it gets really good, however, with an array of little plates that present seasonal produce with unexpected forays down uncharted paths. ul. Racławicka 99
RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA
Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a
Eat! listings Covid-19 Update
Be aware that these listings reference the good old days of gastronomy when we could actually sit down to eat. They do not take into account the restaurant shutdown that was in operation at press time; however, whilst restaurants will not be accepting sit-down custom until at least December 27th, the majority are still offering take-away, pick-up and delivery services.
vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)
carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85
are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. ul. Nowolipki 15
ROZBRAT 20
REGINA BAR
KUR & WINO
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. ul. Rozbrat 20
Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). ul. Koszykowa 1
chinese
comfort food BURGER BAR
PAŃSKA 85
Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck,
Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43
KURA
Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the post-hipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Formerly demonized for its brutally dehumanizing architecture and Orwellian atmosphere, Andersa street has evolved to become something of micro scene rich in hip haunts: in this renaissance, Kur & Wino have more than played their part. Cooked rotisserie-style, the big points go to chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska served with a medley of creative sauces. The cool, funky backdrop adds to the buzz. ul. Andersa 21
PALOMA NAD WISŁĄ
Attached to the modern art museum, people flood here to enjoy an atmospheric wooden-decked terrace, an exciting choice of spritzers and food that captures the zeitgeist: artisanal cheeseboards; stuffed rotis; fish tacos; vegan ice cream and so much more. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 47
PASTRAMI BISTRO
This place was practically designed for the new millennial: craft beers, hanging succulents, neon signage and a communal table. Using pastrami as their hero ingredient (you’d never have guessed, right?), find it inside sandwiches, burgers, bowls of shakshuka and even on pizza. Love it! ul. Solec 50
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Eat! listings POGROMCY MEATÓW
Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. ul. Koszykowa 1
ZKURCZYBYK
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Hands up who loves hot wings? Right, that’s all of you then. Savagely messy yet unforgivably addictive, roll into Zkurczybyk for the juicy chicken tucked inside a crispy, crunch coat smothered and slathered in an array of irresistible sauces. No kidding, they’re things of near profound, holy beauty. Fun and compact, a close quarters interior filled with turntables, ammo boxes and corrugated iron connects well with the whole hip hop / street food vibe – yep, we’d happily live here. ul. Poznańska 7
desserts KUKUŁKA
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Recruiting the acclaimed Beza Projekt studio to handle the design, the result is a funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. But what really gets you are desserts that lift this piece of Warsaw in the direction of heaven – the cream puffs are something else. ul. Mokotowska 52
MISS MELLOW
Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates
throughout. ul. Wilcza 62
MOD DONUTS
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Shoebox in its size, it’s here you’ll find a steady queue lining up for their award-winning NYC-style donuts – featuring toppings like hibiscus; mango; salted caramel; matcha; and lemon and poppy, they’re a fab deviation from the standard Polish pączek. ul. Paryska 27
fine dining EPOKA
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever. ul. Ossolińskich 3
EUROPEJSKI GRILL
The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a well-tailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13
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Eat! listings NOBU
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73
NOLITA
For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. ul. Wilcza 46
SIGNATURE
Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. ul. Poznańska 15
SZÓSTKA
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked
Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka was the fine dining experience that EVERYONE loved over the last year. For that, credit goes to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing,
bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great, recent pleasures. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)
ZONI
Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast
Christmas Take Away
The unique tastes of a Polish Christmas are now all yours to enjoy at home courtesy of Ferment Praski.
On offer, a vast range of traditional tastes and products, including but not limited to: Marinated mushrooms from zł. 20 in a 330 ml jar Filleted and battered carp from zł. 35 per kilo Cabbage & mushroom pierogi zł. 25 for 15 Karkówka, schab and boczek zł. 28 for 0.5 kilos Makowiec cake zł. 35 for 0.5 kilos
Make your order now! kontakt@fermentpraski.pl, tel. 883 052 520 Order by 20th December to pick up on 23rd December Ferment Praski
Pl. Konesera 10A, fermentpraski.pl
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Eat! listings iron kilns, flooring produced from 19th century vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Chef Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow and his menu is a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”. Think BBQ pork ribs that land with a thwunk, Agnolotti pasta expertly folded over Oscypek cheese and tuna served tataki-style. Pl. Konesera 1
food halls ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Flashing with neon amid the industrial ephemera, the food hall is a multi-ethnic extravaganza and complimented by the presence of more bona fide sit-down restaurants such as Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 (the creation of Poland’s biggest media celebrity, Kuba Wojewódzki). Though hamstrung by Covid, the summer did much to show the eventual potential of this game-changing social hub – already excellent, expect it to get even better once life becomes more… normal. ul. Dobra 42
HALA GWARDII
Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. Pl. Mirowska 2
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HALA KOSZYKI
Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. ul. Koszykowa 63
french L’ARC
Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. ul. Puławska 16
georgian RUSIKO
BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for
this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22
greek & turkish Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List”
MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI
With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family – and that, surely, is the essence of hospitality. ul. Londyńska 16
indian BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE
Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. ul. Nowy Świat 58
BOMBAJ MASALA PRAGA
Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy
Eat! listings cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)
CURRY HOUSE
Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54
interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B
FOCACCIA
The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl
japanese ARIGATOR
GURU
The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry! ul. Widok 8
italian DZIURKA OD KLUCZA
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging
This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. ul. Piękna 54
SHOKU
At Shoku, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. ul. Karolkowa 30
UKI UKI
How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right.
Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. ul. Krucza 23/31
korean THE COOL CAT
Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent: the Kimchi Mary is pungent, punchy and above all potent! ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8)
SORA
Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. ul. Wronia 45
latin & spanish
CEVICHE BAR
With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influ-
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Eat! listings ence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul. Twarda 4
mexican LA SIRENA
Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best. Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of tacos and burritos stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts. ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16)
You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. ul. Piękna 54
middle eastern
SENOR LUCAS
To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside,
Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on ul.
LE CEDRE
With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. Al. Solidarności 61
LE CEDRE 84
it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. Al. Solidarności 84
MAGHREB
Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness. ul. Burakowska 9
polish (modern) BARON THE FAMILY
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set around a spacious network of canopied outdoor wooden cabins, the Insider’s former Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, presents a casual food offer around his passion for ‘food from the fire’. Yes sir, that means suckling pigs; sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods that make you feel good about life. Having evolved from maverick talent to national treasure, this is The Good Baron at his thundering best! Krakowskie Przedmieście 4
BEZ GWIAZDEK
Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining
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Eat! listings the pizza box AVE PIZZA
Arguments about Warsaw’s best pizza aren’t complete without someone suggesting Ave. Using a 72-hour process to make their dough, the authenticity of this Neopolitan-inspired pizzeria isn’t to be questioned. ul. Topiel 12
CIAO A TUTTI
Looking like an old school pizzeria should (gingham tablecloths, tiled interiors, strings of garlic), Ciao a Tutti eschew aesthetic niceties to simply produce glorious pizzas that have you reminiscing about your weekend in Naples. Al. Niepodległości 217
CIAO NAPOLI
Old Town gets a bad rap when it comes to food, but buried amid the garbage is the occasional diamond: Ciao Napoli, for example. Specializing in Neapolitan pizza, the highlight is the Gorgonzola e Pera, a decadent affair featuring pear, walnuts, crudo ham and gorgonzola. ul. Długa 6
DZIURKA OD KLUCZA
Upping sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team have magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples that go far beyond mere good. You won’t get to see their spectacular interior during the lockdown, but you can still at least enjoy knock-out pizza delivered to your door. Fort Służew 1B
FOCACCIA
Such is the quality of Focaccia that most express their surprise at the
lack of Italian roaming the kitchen. Sophisticated mains are available, but the pizzas are well worth a look as well. ul. Senatorska 13/15
LEONARDO VERDE
ul. Poznańska 13 Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint whose key selling point is an entirely vegan menu. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’.
MĄKA I WODA
Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, for many this is the best pizza in Poland, no questions asked. DIY pasta also available. ul. Chmielna 13A
MAMMA MARIETTA
One of the most exciting Italian openings in recent times, Mamma Marietta’s menu involves a the lavishly thick Tuscan tomato soup, a range of pasta options and inventive pizzas cooked with passion by chef Andrea Scarantino. And they even deliver to Ursynów! ul. Górnośląska 24
NONNA PIZZERIA
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Even before we switched en-masse to home-delivered, box-friendly foods, 2020 was shaping up to be the Year of the Pizza. And you saw just why with the entry of places like
Nonna to the market. Raising the bar in an already competitive field, their wood-fired, Neapolitan pizzas captivated the public way before we locked ourselves down, and have continued to make waves for their simply stunning authenticity. ul. Oboźna 11
OTTO POMPIERI
If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 24 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything else out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. Pl. Bankowy 1
PRZYJEMNOŚĆ WEGE
Present on Uber Eats and Wolt, Przyjemność break all conventions to bring you wacky ‘Californian’ pizzas with names like Ninja Turtle and Gringo Chicken. Despite the millennial commitment to breaking form and tradition, it’s by far our fave pizza of 2020! ul. Marszałkowska 68/70
REGINA BAR
Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, on the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas are the order of the day – compliment them by ordering up some of their pre-mixed cocktails. ul. Koszykowa 1
TRATTORIA RUCOLA
It might be a chain, but that point is easy to forget once the pizza arrives. Offering a vast selection, the standards rarely drop below top notch. Various locations
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Eat! listings background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city! ul. Wiślana 8
include ‘Prague Zeppelins’ stuffed with meat. Pl. Konesera 10A
KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ
The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. ul. Wierzbowa 9/11
You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. ul. Próżna 12
FERMENT PRASKI
POLANA SMAKÓW
ELIXIR BY DOM WÓDKI
Following a chic neo-bistro format, chef Michał Kornas presents global recipes cooked with seasonal Polish produce inside a stylishly casual, modern interior. Despite the varied scope of the menu, it is the local dishes that warrant the most praise, in particular, those directly influenced by the Praga neighborhood. Modernized for the 21st century palette, these
Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14
THE FARM
Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket, but the overriding sensation is of being somewhere welcoming and warm. ul. Mokotowska 8
WUWU
Concrete finishes, illuminated tubes of light, glass block walls and graphic illustrations lend a slick smartness to this narrow, bluish space. Busy with start-up entrepreneurs and off-duty business bods, they’re here to enjoy the food that connects vodka with the forgotten classics of inter-war Warsaw. With items like duck tongues on the menu, and a shared address with the Vodka Museum, these are ambitions that are realized. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)
polish (classic) DAWNE SMAKI
The atmospheric interiors hark to bygone years, while in sunnier times the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around a few months just to see it. Specializing in traditional cuisine, the deer steak is recommended by all who try it. ul. Nowy Świat 49
PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE
Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into
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Eat! listings jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. ul. Brzeska 29/31
RESTAURACJA POLSKA “RÓŻANA”
Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. ul. Chocimska 7
SCHABOWY
The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1
scandinavian NABOKU
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” In this little pocket of Denmark, a good mood prevails throughout and just by being here, you gain a little understanding as to why the Danes are often cited as the happiest people alive. Inside a sunny room filled with retro posters, super cool lighting and original PRL floor tiles, gather to enjoy staple Nordic favorites such as fish stews, open-faced smørrebrød sandwiches, heaving steaks and curious beers from the likes of To Øl and Mikkeller. Great
things happen here. ul. Zakręt 8
steak houses BEEF N’ PEPPER
Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. ul. Nowogrodzka 47A
BYKBAR
Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. ul. Rozbrat 8
BUTCHERY & WINE
When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital. ul. Żurawia 22
HOŻA
Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded
affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. ul. Hoża 25A
KONESER GRILL
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)
MIĘSNY
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local champion has long been hailed by foodies for a menu that offers an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. Set inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals, it does more than simply serve our favorite meaty cuts; it makes the neighborhood feel complete. ul. Walecznych 64
MOKOTOWSKA 69
Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. On our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. ul. Mokotowska 69
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Eat! listings thai BANGKOK SOI
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” In a city where most Thai is over-priced and under-spiced Bangkok Soi are a knight in shining armor. Dispensing entirely of formality, order from a crumpled sheet of paper at the counter before seating yourself in a basic room decorated with Chang beer pennants and Muangthong United football scarves. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, what next arrives is a whir of full-throated flavors that you never expected. It’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. Al. Jana Pawła II 50
THAISTY
Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. Pl. Bankowy 4
russian & ukrainian REST.BACZEWSKICH
Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv. Though modernized in their look, these are good old-fashioned tastes befitting of the palace that they’re served in. Al. Szucha 17/19
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SKAMIEJKA
As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces (album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds), the welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. The food is hefty, comfort-driven and ideal for long, wintry nights. ul. Ząbkowska 37
vegan EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI
Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11
KUCHNIA KONFLIKTU
First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. ul. Wilcza 60
LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO
Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. ul. Krucza 23/31
NO PROBLEM
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” No Problem’s menu registers a direct hit when it comes to health-minded comfort food but there’s a bar scene as well with a range of craft beers served in a buzzy space that’s Berlin in its spirit: rough-hewn walls painted with street art, wobbly wooden furniture and posters advertising upcoming gigs. There’s no longer a shortage of places that have nailed the whole resto-bar concept, but this is the first vegan joint to try and actually pull it off. ul. Bracka 20
TAHINA
There’s so much to love about Tahina that it’s hard to know where to begin: eventually, though, thoughts will inevitably turn to Warsaw’s best wrap. Contained within a featherlight lavash, the falafels are a different class. One bite and you’ve found heaven. In a city where eating Middle Eastern cuisine still has the feeling of a high risk game of roulette, Tahina hits the jackpot. ul. Wilcza 26
TEL AVIV LEONARDO VERDE
Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13
A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. ul. Poznanska 11
Drink! First Sip
Cophi ul. Lwowska 2A, fb.com/cophi.solutions
TIME FOR… COPHI? Already established on Hoża as one of Warsaw’s favorite sources of specialty coffee, Cophi have cast their net a little further (and we mean a little – as in 500 meters or so) to cover Lwowska. And what a gem it is: personally designed by Uri, the owner, find a bijou space lavished in shades of candy cotton pink and rich, forest green; finished with a healthy,
heavy dose of fresh wood, poster art and patterned floor tiles, it’s a place you’d like to hang around in. For the moment, at least, that’s impossible, but do drop by for take-out coffee that silently spits and splurts from a limited edition Conti Monaco machine. Taken as a whole, it’s a quality-driven approach that ultimately manifests itself in coffee to remember.
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Drink! Round-up
The Drinks Cart
With bars unlikely to resume operations this year, we bring you a selection of some of our favorite off-licenses, liquor lockers, tap rooms and wine stores – because no bars doesn’t have to mean a sober Christmas!
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Drink! Round-up craft beer
and wines compliment the offer.
RAJ PIWOSZA
Kabacki Dukt 8 Kabaty has a gold mine in the form of A Może Pifko, a store with some 500 or so different beers and about fifteen taps manned by well-informed staff accustomed to everyday dealings with craft nerds. When you’re done stocking up on booze, add also some pint glasses produced by Krosno to your shopping basket – your beer will taste better!
ul. Bora-Komorowskiego 56A Ok, so we all prefer drinking in a pub, but if there’s one thing we learned during the opening lockdown it was just how easy it was to enjoy a brewery fresh pint from the safety of a sofa. Pouring fresh-batch deliveries from 12 taps into bottles and growlers, Gocławbased Raj Piwsoza have proved a pandemic all-star. More points are awarded for ample fridge and shelf space dedicated to both domestic and international artisan beers.
DR. BEER
WHITE WHALE
A MOŻE PIFKO
Rondo Waszyngtona (underpass) Those living in Saska Kępa have a neighborhood hero in the shape of Dr. Beer. Find a roster of six taps as well as a diverse shelf offer featuring a broad range of Polish ciders, salted snacks and every genre of beer you could ever imagine. And if you’re a regular, find yourself rewarded with loyalty card points.
KUFLE I KAPSLE ŻOLIBORZ
ul. Popiełuszki 19/21 Taking a hammering from Covid-19, Kufle i Kapsle are keeping their head above water by reprising their Żoliborz branch into a booze shop. There’s a couple of taps operating for takeaways and not but a wide-reaching selection of bottles to clunk back home with you.
NALEWAK
Blue City & Galeria Młociny Reminding us that not all malls are bastions of big brand rubbish are Nalewak, a beer emporium with locations in two retail centers. Boasting just under 20 taps in each, find them firing a selection of Czech lagers, Polish craft and Prosecco. Bottled craft beers
ul. Giełdowa 4E A stone’s throw from the Rising Museum, it’s easy to understand why White Whale were named the Warsaw Beer Trail’s ‘Shop of the Year’ in 2018. Complimenting the eight taps are a motherlode of beers from game changing international breweries that have yet to fully penetrate the domestic market. It’s the ultimate beer geek heaven.
wine & spirits ALEMBIK
Pl. Konesera (Centrum Praskie Koneser) Touting a prestigious portfolio of whisky, cognac, champagne, gin and rum, consider Alembik an alcohol emporium. For the biggest ace up their sleeve though, find an impressive selection of Polish vodka to reflect this store’s location in a former vodka factory.
MIELŻYŃSKI WINE & SPIRITS
ul. Czerska 12 & Burakowska 5-7 Credited with sparking Poland’s wine revolution when it first opened around
15-years ago, Mielżyński’s invincible reputation has been well-earned. The warehouse dimensions of the two branches allow for a sizeable offer that numbers approximately 700 wines covering all categories and price points, as well as spirits, fortified wines and deli boxes. Online delivery also available.
PROPAGANDA
Al. Komisji Edukacji Narodowej 51 The extensive portfolio includes champagne, cognac, brandy, grappa, rum, Polish nalewki and, of course, vodka. In this regard, the choice includes pedigree brands such as Ketel One and Black Cow. Premium brands proliferate across the board.
VINI E AFFINI
Biały Kamien 5 & Fort 8 A legend, plain and simple. Slanted heavily towards Italy, though also featuring other European powerhouses, choices involve biodynamic, unfiltered and natural wines from both established and on-trend producers.
VINOTEKA 13
ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac) A diverse, premium-minded choice that fits with the over-arching philosophy of Poland’s most luxurious department store. Wines from Italy, Spain and France are especially prominent, though with celebrations in mind look at their champagnes.
WHISKY & WINE PLACE
ul. Jana Kazimierza 30 On the whisky front, there’s a thousand to browse – from Scottish single malts to more maverick choices from Sweden and Egypt. Elsewhere, Warsaw’s broadest choice of champagne includes several rarer labels whilst the wine offer has been tweaked to involve a fair few trending Polish wines.
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Drink! listings Covid-19 Update
These listings do not take into account the seismic changes currently effecting the drinks sector. Instead, we’ve taken an optimistic (ha!) longer-term view in the hope that those we feature will survive the challenges of the present. As things stand, the government has stated that bars, clubs and cafes will not reopen for sit-down service until at least December 27th. In the meantime, find those that are able to (principally cafes), running a skeletal take-away and delivery service.
specialty coffee
the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. Note: currently open for window-side take-outs only. ul. Hoża 58/60
ASFALT
FAT WHITE
The combination of vinyl and coffee ain’t nothing new, but at Asfalt you feel that the very heart of the concept has been completely remastered. Take stock of your purchases over alt. coffees served inside mugs crafted by the nearby Fenek ceramic studio. ul. Tamka 37
COFFEEDESK
Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. ul. Wilcza 42
COPHI
The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer,
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Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. ul. Andersa 6
FORUM
Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. ul. Elektoralna 11
HAŁAS VINYL + COFFEE
Hałas is that brilliant little secret that
every neighborhood deserves: a cool little café snuck down a leafy residential street – amid the vinyl albums for sale, find a crew of staunch regulars arriving for weird non-alc. beers and specialty coffee brewed by a super friendly team inside an attractive basement comprised of crisp white walls and retro fittings. You want summer to return just to be able to sit on their outdoor bench and wallow in the shade. ul. Jagiellońska 30 & Elsterska 10
KAWIARNIA FABRYCZNA
Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and wallow in the natural light that seeps through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle. ul. Fabryczna 28/30
KAWIARNIA KAWAŁEK
This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. ul. Łucka 18
RELAKS
An evergreen institution, the specialty
Drink! listings coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. ul. Puławska 48
RELAX NA WILCZEJ
An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s lineup of alt. coffee haunts. ul. Wilcza 17
ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes. ul. Twarda 4
KONESER BAR 3/4
Perched on the top of the Polish Vodka Museum this bar offers more than just stonking views of the Praga
district from their sunny terrace: of note are beautiful vodka-based cocktails prepared in an atmospheric interior molded from carefully restored raw materials. Pl. Konesera 1
LORETA
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Well who doesn’t love a rooftop bar? That’s the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led
STOR
Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw. ul. Tamka 33
U KRAWCA
Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados. ul. Siennicka 3
cocktails CEVICHE BAR
Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing. The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an
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Drink! listings hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup. ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)
PODWALE BAR & BOOKS
Occupying the kind of charismatic gatehouse you’d read T about in Dickens, position yourself R C P T M in front of the upstairs fireplace for a C W ≈ celebratory cigar and a glass of someW C ≈ and lovely: the cocktails are thing tall C C ≈ of their own and specifically in a class T ≈ customized for the season. Spooling, P E HE MOST
EFRESHINGLY LACES
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HAMPAGNE
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LOCATION SHOOTS PODWALE BAR AND BOOKS Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199
Visit Our LOcatiOns in new YOrk and Prague
www.barandbooks.pl
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silent Bond films, regular burlesque shows and random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. ul. Wąski Dunaj 20
craft beer
WARSZAWA POWIŚLE
The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. ul. Moniuszki 1A
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found in a saucer-shaped building that began life in the 60s as a ticket booth, the retro-inspired Warszawa Powiśle is even better than the cult bar once found here. Polished up, and still touting original features such as power boxes and concrete floors, giant windows and a PRL era neon perched atop of the building, the scene is set for classic cocktails imbibed and enjoyed in a rotunda decorated with vintage tables, velvety poufs, leafy plants and an underlit, marble-topped bar. ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B
ARTEZAN PUB
CZEŚĆ
It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so
Drink! listings do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage
JABEERWOCKY
Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. ul. Nowogrodzka 12
KUFLE I KAPSLE
Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in
the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. ul. Nowogrodzka 25
for gentlemen 1 SUN SALON
For something naughty but nice 1 Sun Salon offers body-to-body tantric massage with just about the happiest ending you could possibly wish for.
Staffed with flighty college girls, and equally welcoming to stag groups as they are business travelers, head here to wallow in plush VIP rooms while every whim and fancy is satisfied and served. ul. Marszałkowska 24/26
wine bars CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE For those wineing out, Czarne Czerwone Złote features over 80 Deutsche weines from 13 producers – carefully selected after the owners’ travels through Germany, the carefully curated choice has been matched to a cool, modern design and a menu offering cheeseboards, olives and an extraordinary tarte flambee. ul. Koszykowa 49A
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PHOTOGRAPH ED WIGHT
LOOKING AHEAD: VACATION 2021 Poland wasn’t at all a bad second best to the foreign holidays we may have been used to. With this in mind, we look forward to some of the unique stays we expect to check out (in some cases again) during the year coming up…
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DWÓR DAWIDY
Close to the attractive mediaeval town of Pasłęk, this 18th century manor house proved the Insider’s favorite break before covid struck. A creaky old place brimming with antiques and hunting trophies, Dwór Dawidy is the perfect marriage between heritage and hospitality. Run by a rally-driving gent by the name of Jan, you come here to do nothing but recharge. Morning walks spent clambering around ravines are followed by lazy afternoons sat snoozing on the sofa. After, let Pani Halina spoil you with homely cooking that captures the essence of rural Poland while you stoke the fireplace with logs the size of a small child. Close to Pasłęk, 270 km north of Warsaw Rooms from zł. 250 per night, dawidy.com
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INTO THE LAS
“We wanted to create a place where doing nothing had a value in itself,” say the owners of Into The LAS, and that’s precisely what they’ve done. Repurposed from two shipping containers, the eco-minded lodgings have been inspired by the philosophy of ‘tiny living’ and come inside two cabins christened Pine and Meadow House. Beautifully appointed with light, modern fittings, each has an open-air fireplace and access to an alfresco hot tub. As the name suggests, you’re in the thick of nowhere which translates to mean no shortage of soupy, morning mists and the mysterious calls of nature hooting in the distance. Sojczynek, 200 km north east of Warsaw Accommodation from zł. 279, intothelas.com
JACZNO LODGE
For a cold weather getaway, Jaczno is the definition of hygge. Shrouded in fog and wisps of chimney smoke, this rural outpost feels more like a micro-village with its collection of sturdy stone and timber lodges. Overlooking a deep, frozen lake, and brushing shoulders with acres of rolling meadows and dense, dark forests, you come here to do little more than drink, ready, sleep and walk before repeating the cycle till its time to leave. Clothes-wise, a reindeer jumper and some silly monster slippers won’t look out of place: you’re here to make yourself at home – everyone else does. Jaczne, 330 km north east of Warsaw Rooms from zł. 220 per night, jaczno.pl
KIMURA GLAMPING
Regularly touted by Poland’s glossy lifestyle bibles, here’s another place that sits high on the wish list for 2021. Created by Polish-Japanese artist Lia Kimura, this forest paradise sits a whisper from Warsaw in the forests of Marki. Stunning to look at, Kimura’s own family heritage is referenced with eastern motifs that induce a zen-like ambiance. Sprinkled with swings and hammocks and secretive spots for solitary chillout, it’s a fantasy of magic that promises to realign the soul. Named after Japanese gods, lavish tents stare onto the lush vegetation and contain stoves, handmade furniture, generous beds and opulent rugs. Marki, 20 km north east from central Warsaw Price on request, kimuraglamping.com
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PAŁAC OSOWA ŚIEN
When the Insider discovered Osowa Śien in the summer of 2018 it felt like the discovery of the year. Now, it’s starting to feel like the discovery of a lifetime. Just about our favorite stay in Polska, this serene 19th century palace presents itself in a fairy tale flurry of turrets, towers and pointy rooftop features. Inside, recent improvements number a holistic yoga room, a subterranean wine bar and a number of luxurious suites themed around the works of novelist – and former resident – Leonie Ossowski. As evening falls, settle around the living room fireplace for wine and local beers with the vivacious Canadian owners. Osowa Sień, 420 km east of Warsaw Suites from zł. 350 per night, palacosowasien.com
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PAŁAC PISZKOWICE
Here’s one of the places we haven’t visited but that tops our 2021 hit list on account of the deafening endorsements from those that have. With its steep mansard roof peering above the surrounding forests, this Baroque era palace promises a cool, quirky take on chateau living. Plush but restrained furnishings dominate with the center point being a vaulted fireplace hall that sings with atmosphere. Dotted with little nooks in which to squirrel yourself away with a book, outside explore landscaped terraced gardens shaded by lindens. The wider region offers a bounty of places to visit, ranging from ornate spa towns to creepy wartime tunnels. Piszkowice, 450 km south west of Warsaw Price on request, piszkowice.com
VEGAN HOUSE
There’s no shortage of glamping options now in Poland, but vegan glamping? That’s what you have here, an all-year tented village nestled in the bosom of the Kłodzko Valley. But camping? In winter? These are not the tents you may remember from scouts. Set on wooden decks and fitted with air-con, double beds, bathrooms and fridges, these perks never undermine the eco-forward mission. Seeking to present a wilder side of nature, paved paths are absent, while the laissez fair attitude to gardening lends an untamed edge to this country escape. Having scoffed a vegan feast, snuggle into your armchair with a glass of something red to watch darkness descend on the mountains in front. Międzylesie, 480 km south west of Warsaw Accommodation from zł. 350 per night, veganhouse.pl
WBAŃCE
Well, who doesn’t like the idea of living in their own little bubble? Ensconced within a transparent dome – each equipped with its own stargazing telescope – wBańce offer five cocoons which connect luxury with nature. Bearing names such as Bitcoin and Milky Way, each comes with its own private bathroom and beds with 180 degree views of the skies up above. Secluded from each other thanks to carefully planted greenery, and positioned in well-tended gardens around a still, small pond, this five-million star hotel feels one-of-a-kind. If you need action, then dynamic Łódź is a 20-minute cab ride away. Close to Łódź, 125 km west from Warsaw Accommodation from zł. 349, wbance.pl
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learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW
Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.
BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW
A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.
THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW EARLY YEARS CENTRE
The British School Warsaw provides EYFS classes from nursery to Year 1 (6 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, thebritishschool.pl
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THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL
Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl
CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL
(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl
INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW
Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,
Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages. pl/saint-exupery.pl
THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE
The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:
jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl
MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI
Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl
MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES
An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl
Admissions open for Early Years, Primary, Secondary and IB
Contact our Admissions Team for a tour or a personalised Virtual Discovery Meeting
admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 www.thebritishschool.pl
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TRILINGUAL PRE-SCHOOL AND NURSERY “THREE LANGUAGES” CENTER
The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl
schools AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL
Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl
AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW
With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers.
Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org
A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant
Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org
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BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW
by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.
THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW
Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl
THE ENGLISH PRIMARY
The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children
experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl
THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL
Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@
canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl
INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW
Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl
the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@ joyprimaryschool.pl
MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl
JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL
Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding,
WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL A leader in the field of Montessori
monnet international school
PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN
IB World School no 001483
's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N
Education for a better world
Belwederska 6a, Warsaw
www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole
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education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl
company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@ cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com
WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL
KLUB DIALOGU
Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl
WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL
Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl
adult learning CUP OF POLISH
Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/
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FROG
Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals. ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl
Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl
for a great souvenir. ul. Wilcza 29
LAMUS
Another antique bookstore that comes filled with leather-bound tomes, regal looking scrolls and elaborate maps. Also known for their pre-war prints and paintings of Warsaw before it was knocked down. ul. Nowomiejska 7
LAPIDARIUM
Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… The opportunities for rummaging are endless. ul. Nowomiejska 15/17
PRIMA PORTA ANTIQUITIES
antiques
At the top end of the scale the German-run Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. ul. Hlonda 8
ANTYKWARIAT GROCHOWSKI
books
For the undisputed heavyweight of printed material, look for Antykwariat Grochowski, a maze-like space with over 130,000 books in its arsenal. Among the haul, find Polish comics such as Kapitan Kloss and Kajko i Kokosz, vinyl records, graphic art and old currency. Truly, it’s one of the wonders of right bank Warsaw. ul. Kickiego 12
ANTYKWARIAT NA TAMCE Presided over by a super-friendly hippy-looking dude, consider this a mine of rare vinyl (Beatles, Hendrix, Sabbath, weird Polish PRL stuff), as well as 15,000 comics and books. ul. Tamka 45B
KWADRYGA
Antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past and make
ATTICUS
You can smell the history in this old curiosity shop; this antiquarian bookstore has a rich stock of dusty tomes piled higgledy-piggledy on towering shelves. English-language texts are also present and procurable in this hoarder’s heaven. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 12
FUNDACJA BĘC ZMIANA
A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 65/7
KSIĘGARNIA BULLERBYN
A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul. Chmielna 10
health & beauty spas & salons
CREAMY
Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl
FIFTH AVENUE
Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing, massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska 49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl
shopping accessories ALBA 1913
Founded in 1913 by Mieczysław Rychlicki, Alba’s high performance, self-care essentials harness three
generations of herbal wisdom to create a range of cosmetics inspired by ideals of health-powered holistic beauty. ul. Mysia 3 (second floor)
MO61
Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 allows customers to create their own scents under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!). ul. Mokotowska 61
PINGLE OPTYK
A collection of hand-selected designer eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. ul. Hoża 40
fashion CLOUDMINE
Presenting fashion lines and design items from a personally selected pool of Polish designers and artists, Cloudmine’s philosophy is built around support for young, independent and upcoming designers. “We don’t chase trends and one-season brands,” they says, “instead, we love classics, minimalism and style.” ul. Paryska 17
FEMI STORIES
Aimed at the young, active woman of today, Femi Pleasure’s dynamic range of clothing is both urban and outdoorsy. ‘Unique design, quality and comfort’ are the sacred three pillars upon which their philosophy is built. ul. Browarna 4, femistories.com
LOLLY POP BOUTIQUE
Latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1)
LUI STORE
Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26
MMC
Founded by Ilona Majer and Rafał Michalak, MMC have earned a name for unconventional designs manufactured using non-standard materials. ul. Żurawia 2
MOLIERA 2 BOUTIQUE
Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com
PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY 3/4
Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com
REYKJAVIK DISTRICT
Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15
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Praga Zoo
10 ki aw
Powązki Cemetery
Andersa
St
7 Jewish Cemetery
6 Old Town
5 1
2 ska kow
szał Mar
4 9 km
ska bow
Grzy
2
4 a zysk tokr Swie
ta
Pros
skie
olim eroz
Palace of Culture & Science
Al. J
9
11
1
8 2
3
Łazienki Park
1 19 km
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3 4 km
7
MAP 5
6
shopping exeriences 1
Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2
Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com National Stadium
3
Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4
Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5
Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6
Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7
Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8
Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl
9
Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10
Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11
Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl
museums 1
National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2
The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl
6
Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7
POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl
stores 1
Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com 2
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com
3
Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4
Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5
Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org
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Hidden History
Home (Alone) Is Where The Heart Is As Christmas looms closer, we look at Poland’s fixation with Home Alone!
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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2020
Previously described by us as “a demented fixation”, possibly the deepest and most unanswerable mystery of Poland concerns the country’s almost unhinged emotional attachment to the film Home Alone (or, to award it its Polish title, Kevin W Samu Domu). Traditionally shown each Xmas on Polsat, when the station pulled it from their schedule in 2010 it was an act deemed so heinous and sensational as to prompt outraged headlines: “Polsat have killed Christmas,” screamed one newspaper. Over ninety-thousand Facebook users agreed causing TV executives to hurriedly back down. Firmly enshrined as the country’s ultimate feel-good
film, some have attributed the sentimentality associated with the movie to an original release date that coincided with the early days of post-Communist freedom. “Everything about it depicted the kind of world that every Pole wanted to be part of,” explains one critic. Given the warm feelings it continues to evoke, it’s no accident that Polsat chose to screen it in March to lift the mood of a nation rattled by the first lockdown. “Be Like Kevin,” accompanying adverts urged, “and stay home!” Timeless in its appeal, expect record-breaking figures to tune in this Christmas as the film celebrates its 30th anniversary since premiering.
Delivering Warsaw’s an order call Best To You Totel.make +48 22 651 9003 or order online at: www.roomservice.pl
Delivering Warsaw's Best To You To make an order call tel.+48 22 651 9003 or order online at: www.roomservice.pl
• Vouchers • Christmas Eve dinners that can be delivered to company employees at simultaneous times • Christmas gift boxes for company employees