The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996
JUNE 2019
40 Ideas For Summer!
274 06/2019
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AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BEACH BUNNY BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KIINI MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK MARC JACOBS MARYSIA SWIM ONETEASPOON SFELF-PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN
Moliera 2
tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com
editorial INFRONT
Editor-in-chief Alex Webber
7 News
insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl
FEATURES
Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com
20 Markets: Hala Mirowska & Gwardii 24 Fab 40: Summer Roundup
Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight
EAT!
Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com
39 Review:
Vege Małpa 40 Review: SMACZNeEgo 41 Review: Pizza Boyz 42 Review: Kanapa
ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Joanna Chmielewska jchmielewska@valkea.com
69 Review:
Nowina 70 Review: Zoni 72 Review: Nocny Market
DO!
85 Review:
Bakaliko 86 Events 89 Museums 101 Essentials 102 Map 104 Instagram
W
ell you wouldn’t call it dull, would you? June might not be the finest month there is, but it’s certainly the most thrilling – with summer’s rich promise casting optimism across the city, it’s a time when Warsaw’s energy levels soar as if riding the kick of a restorative Red Bull. After months of slouching through wind, rain, sleet and snow, June is when the city jolts into life and remembers there’s a party. Given the circumstances, therefore, it’s apt that this issue we’ve chosen to focus on the season’s must-dos: find them listed in our Fab Forty Things For Summer. Elsewhere, we’ve explored the story of the founding father of Polish boxing, investigated the depths of Hala Mirowska, and found enough in the tank to celebrate the surprise return of the cult Nocny Market. As always, hope you enjoy it and see you next month.
Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover That’s Hala Mirowska, more of which you’ll find on p. 20. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)
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ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS
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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2019 Warsaw Insider.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT
DRINK!
JUNE 2019
BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS
ATRIUM PROMENADA
– a great place to shop, meet and spend time together
Atrium Promenada offers a diverse fashion selection, providing a unique combination of brands in all-new flagship stores. Most of the fashion destinations are located in the Fountain Alley. And don’t miss the Republic of Flavors, an F&B area with a great ambience and many popular food concepts. A place of inspiration, shopaholics will find plenty to keep them here before returning to the shops freshly re-energized.
JEWELERY AND COSMETICS In Atrium Promenada find almost thirty jewelrey and cosmetics destinations. APART, PANDORA, SWAROVSKI, W.KRUK, TOUS, MAC, DOUGLAS, SEPHORA, KIEHL’S, L’OCCITANE are all ideal places in which to find perfect gifts for someone special (including yourself!).
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CAFES AND RESTAURANTS In Atrium Promenada cafes and restaurants are spread across the center. Among them are TRATTORIA BOCCONE, GRUBA RYBA, SPHINX, SUBWAY, COSTA COFFEE, KARMELLO, CARTE D’OR as well as a unique culinary concept by CARREFOUR called ISLAND OF FLAVOURS. Whether you’re after sushi, Italian, coffee or desserts, you won’t be disappointed.
RICH FASHION OFFER The unique interiors of Atrium Promenada provide the perfect frame for the latest fashion collections on show. Internationally recognized brands include MASSIMO DUTTI, GUESS, CALVIN KLEIN JEANS, IMPERIAL, MARELLA, WEEKEND BY MAXMARA, ELISABETTA FRANCHI, PINKO, LIU JO and the first E-OBUWIE STORE in Warsaw. Lap them up in the stunning Fountain Alley.
REPUBLIC OF FLAVORS SPORT Atrium Promenada is also aimed at sports fans with a wide selection of sporting brands found in the twolevel GO SPORT, as well as outlets of SIZEER, 4F, NEW BALANCE and TIMBERLAND.
Brought to you by
Address: ul. Ostrobramska 75c Tel: +48 22 611 39 52 www.warszawa.promenada.com @AtriumPromenada
Republic of Flavors offers a choice of cuisines from across the world, all of which have been carefully selected so as to perfectly complement each other. The Atrium Promenada food court area brings together a variety of food outlets such as SALAD STORY, BON APETITO, KLOOSKI BISTRO BAR, THAI WOK, BERLIN DÖNER KEBAP, NORTH FISH, MCDONALD'S, BURGER KING, PIZZA HUT EXPRESS, KFC, and STARBUCKS. With a vibe that brings to mind the bistros of Paris and the café scene of New York, it’s a fabulous place in which to chill out.
LEISURE TIME Bathed in natural light, Atrium Promenada invites visitors to take a leisurely stroll across marble floors that lead past high-end brand names, or to take a breath in intimate leisure zones near the majestic main fountain.
@atrium_promenada
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in the
NEWS
A WAITING GAME ENDS A two-hundred year wait came to an end in mid-May following the opening of the lower gardens of Warsaw’s Royal Castle. Originally planned in the
KEVIN DEMARIA
18th century, work was thwarted by the Third Partition of Poland and abandoned until the nation regained independence in 1918 – but hopes that a garden befitting of the zamek would be built were again dashed, this time by the Nazi invasion. When Communism crumbled in 1989, the project was revived only to be shelved following the 2003 death of the professor placed in charge. Finally, as if to prove good things come to those that wait, a spectacular sunken garden was unveiled last month. Home to 17,000 tulips and over a 1,000 hornbeams, the four-level, 1.9 hectare extravaganza was the result of 18-months of work and an investment that topped zł. 23 million – 18 of which came from the EU. Also featuring 12 fountains and state-of-the-art lighting solutions, the garden’s grand opening was marked by a demonstration of old weaponry and a recreation of Poland’s first hot air balloon flight. Saliently, its completion brings to a close the post-war reconstruction of this section of Warsaw.
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News
TR ANSPORT
Mo-pedal Power
ART
Sold!
Painted at the peak of her creative output, Tamara de Lempicka’s Still Life With Tangerines was auctioned off in Warsaw for zł. 684,000. Sold by the DESA Unicum auction house, it was the first time in six years that one of her works had appeared on the Polish market. Born in Warsaw at the turn of the century, Lempicka has come to symbolize the excess of the Jazz Age, with her art appearing in the collections of Madonna, Jack Nicholson and Barbara Streisand.
CULTURE
Relax, It’s Going To Be Fine
Though sitting empty for over a decade, the future of ul. Złota’s Kino Relax building has been safeguarded after it was placed on the National Register of Monuments on account of its cultural, historical and architectural merit. Opened in 1970, Relax was regarded as Poland’s top cinema during the PRL period, and was repeatedly picked to host national premiers of blockbusters such as Star Wars. With its name democratically chosen via a newspaper poll, Kino Relax was primarily known as the first cinema in Poland with the capacity to show movies shot on 70mm film. Though privy to a thorough revamp in 1998, Poland’s multiplex revolution spelled the end of Relax with the cinema finally closing its doors in 2006. Since then, it’s faced an uncertain future and came close to being demolished after a new owner proposed the construction of a 185-meter skyscraper on the plot.
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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESS MATERIAL, DESA UNICUM
Poland’s mania for shared transport has been further underlined by the ongoing expansion of Blinkee City, the country’s first network of electrically powered mopeds. First launched in 2017, mid-May saw Blinkee enter a partnership with ING Bank Śląski to expand their service. Capable of traveling at speeds of 70 km per hour, over 200 mopeds will soon be available to Warsaw citizens, with moped hire priced at zł. 0.69 per minute. To join the revolution, see: blinkee.city
News CRIME
MonuMental Act
CIT Y
Down By The River
Opened with the ambition of becoming the most visited riverside spot of the summer, the WIR floating platform promises a rich fusion of art, culture and entertainment with 84 concerts and 26 film screenings already confirmed for the upcoming months. Moored by Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie, the 336 sq/m space will be split into five ‘zones’, among them a chillout area, gastronomy section, outdoor cinema and cultural zone. Open daily from 10 a.m., hopes are high that WIR will fill the spiritual and social void left by the exit of riverfront legends such as Cud Nad Wisłą.
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PHOTOGRAPH FROM TOP: KEVIN DEMARIA, WIR PRESS MATERIAL
An 18-year-old aspiring model and social media personality found her work going viral in May… but for all the wrong reasons. Identified as Julia Słońska, the teenager hit headlines after using a hammer to smash the nose of a historic sculpture in Warsaw’s Dolina Szwajcarska park. The ‘prank’ was aired on Instagram and left both the public and the authorities outraged. “Put simply, what she did was a crime,” said the city’s conservator, Michał Krasucki. Despite issuing a lame apology, Słońska found herself dropped by her agency and subjected to threats. “If a sculpture without a soul is more important than a person with emotions then that’s seriously f***ed,” the vandal is reported to have huffed in response to the storm. In addition to being held financially responsible for the repair of the statue, this year’s undisputed Moron Of The Year also faces sixmonths to eight-years in jail for her act of lunacy.
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SPORT
Grounds For Optimism
Redevelopment of Polonia’s stadium gives fans cause for cheer…
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he topsy-turvy world of Polonia Warszawa football club has taken a turn for the better after a winning design for their stadium’s redevelopment was announced earlier in mid-May. The result of a seven-month process, a 13-person jury chose a design submitted by JSK Architekci ahead of 16 other proposals. Speaking of their decision, the panel hailed JSK’s concept for its “simplicity, completeness and consistency.” Previously credited with the creation of the National Stadium, as well as the remodeling of Legia Warszawa’s football ground, JSK’s vision includes
a 15,500-capacity arena, the renovation of historic elements such as the exterior colonnades, a 1,000-capacity sports hall, a municipal square, underground parking, club offices as well as extensive sports facilities specifically targeted at the younger generation and local community. The cost of the investment – approximately zł. 150 million for the stadium, and a further zł. 250 million for the rest of the complex – will be covered by the city. In a city still lacking top class sporting infrastructure, the news has been welcomed by all sectors, with dissenting voices limited to those of resentful Legia fans. For fans of Polonia Warszawa, however, the news has come as a timely boost after a challenging few seasons. Two-time winners of both the league and the cup, one of Poland’s most historic clubs has struggled in recent times after financial mismanagement took them to the brink of collapse. Currently lying in seventh place in the fourth-tier, the announcement offers a ray of hope to the club’s long-suffering fan base.
PRESS MATERIAL
News
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News DESIGN
From Mad Men To Work Zen A Warsaw office gives the design world food for thought…
For more, see: warszawskiul.com / bezaprojekt.pl
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PRESS MATERIAL
P
oland’s growing stature in the world of international design received a further boost after a Warsaw office found itself topping a list issued by Wallpaper* detailing its favorite co-working spaces around the world. Located in Mokotów, the 80 sq/m Warszawski UL was inspired by the aesthetic seen in the hit TV show Mad Men. Tasked with re-imagining the interiors of a pre-war, modernist building in Mokotów, the Beza Projekt studio hit on an unexpected revelation. “The owners wanted to transform the space into an intimate and elegant workplace with moody interiors,” says Anna Łoskiewicz, co-founder of Beza Projekt. “The more we browsed archived photographs and related materials, the more the entire house reminded us of Don Draper from Mad Men. From that came the idea that the interior should be inspired by a 50s or 60s-style office.” Rosewood panels and veneered hidden doorways were introduced, as too were rich brass details and shades of duck blue and brushed gold. Fitted with customized furniture and carefully selected lighting, the project soon found itself going viral as more design portals picked up on it. “It’s quite a small-scale project,” says Anna, “so we were certainly surprised by the interest shown in it, but I think that alone demonstrates the increased attention now awarded to the way people work. People want more from their work space than just fixed objects ordered from a catalogue, they need something extra.” At Warszawski UL, they have just that.
News HISTORY
Road To Ruin
As the 80th anniversary of the outbreak of WWII looms closer, plans have been announced to commemorate the conflict through the creation of a map pointing out surviving traces of the war. Where once bullet-scarred buildings and empty ruins were a common sight around town, the last decade has seen many disappear as part of capital’s aggressive redevelopment. Produced by City Hall, the map will be published at the end of September and will detail such points of interest as shattered facades, antiNazi graffiti and signs left by sappers during the ‘de-mining’ of Warsaw.
POLITICS
The National Museum in Warsaw found itself the subject of international ridicule after removing an artwork featuring a woman suggestively eating a banana. Earlier, the museum’s new head, Jerzy Miziolek, had declared he was “opposed to showing works that could irritate vulnerable young people.” But the move sparked an immediate backlash with social media users posting banana-eating selfies on Facebook and Instagram, and crowds of protestors gathering outside the museum to eat the fruit. Faced with mounting criticism, the museum found itself backpedaling and returning Natalia LL’s work to public display.
LOCAL
The Past Remembered
Seventy-six years after the Nazis blew it to smithereens to symbolically mark the end of Jewish Warsaw, the city’s Grand Synagogue temporarily reappeared as a spectacular multimedia projection cast onto Pl. Bankowy’s ‘Blue Tower’. The work of artist Gabi von Seltmann, the display was part of wider commemorations marking the outbreak of the Jewish Ghetto Uprising and was projected onto the former site of the house of worship.
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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP: SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA, MARTA KUŚMIDER
Banana Wars
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News SPORT
Bravo Stamm!
C
oinciding with the 66th anniversary of his greatest triumph, mid-May saw the unveiling of a statue honoring ‘the father of Polish boxing’, Feliks Stamm. Cast in bronze, the 2.6-meter figure has been positioned in the park outside Hala Mirowska, just steps away from the scene of Stamm’s life-defining moment.
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As coach of the national boxing team, Stamm racked up an astonishing number of successes, and it was under his tutelage that Jerzy Kulej won a gold medal in the light welterweight class of the 1964 Tokyo Olympics. Despite being injured, Stamm’s motivational words inspired Kulej to record an epic win in the final against Soviet rival Evgeniy Frolov. “How does Frolov know you’ve broken your hand,” rallied Stamm, “fight with the other one! I’m not throwing the towel in, I’m a coach, and I want to hear our national anthem when we win.” Yet it is Stamm’s connection to Hala Gwardii that resonates particularly strongly. In 1953 the European Boxing Championships were held right under this roof, with Stamm’s young charges ensuring their place in folklore by racking up an impressive haul of nine medals (five of which were gold). “This was about more than just boxing,” says Paula Stamm, President of the Feliks Stamm Foundation and the great granddaughter of the legend. “Given the historical context of the time, by triumphing over German and Soviet boxers, Poland’s success felt both politically and spiritually important.” With the Polish anthem ringing out, and many fans reduced to tears of joy, Feliks ‘Papa’ Stamm left Hala Gwardii a national hero. Cheers of Brawo Stamm echoed in the evening air. “At the time,” says Paula Stamm, “it was as if a miracle had happened!” Drawing a star-studded crowd that included political figures, former Olympians and heavyweight legend Dariusz ‘Tiger’ Michalczewski, the unveiling ceremony was conducted by Paula Stamm and actor Daniel Olbrychski. Olbrychski, who trained under Feliks Stamm for the 1966 film Boxer, spoke of his memories of growing up listening to the boxing on the radio, whilst Paula Stamm used the opportunity to pledge her commitment to a new cause: the implementation of an ‘avenue of boxing stars’ that will lead from the monument of Feliks to the entrance of Hala Gwardii.
PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA
Warsaw remembers the undisputed king of Polish boxing…
MARKETS HALA MIROWSKA & GWARDII
HALL-ELUJAH
As news filters through concerning its possible renewal, the Insider celebrates the life and times of the city’s most storied food market: Hala Mirowska…
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a
side product of Poland’s foodie revolution, the epidemic of farmers’ markets and bio bazars continues unabated – but have they, ask some, begun to lose their soul? The domain of yoga mums pushing buggies, wannabe’ bloggers posting to Instagram, and start-up entrepreneurs with wicker baskets straddling the handlebars of their scooter, the sense is of a phenomenon now laced with the underlying whiff of commercial insincerity. It wasn’t meant to be like this. But at Hala Mirowska, it most certainly isn’t. A stark contrast to the staged environments being thrust upon us, it’s a place that harks to a different age. As well it might. Appearing junky, dumpy, torn and frayed, it’s this fundamental honesty that has ensured that this historic market place has continued to thrive into the current day. Completed in 1901, Hala Mirowska earned its name after being constructed atop of the former barracks of the Mirowski Mounted Cavalry Guard (so named after the unit’s original commander, a Scot by the name of Wilhelm Meir), with an outlay of 1.4 million rubles earning the city two market halls measuring 95.4 meters in length and 42.8 meters in width. Christened Hala Mirowska and Hala Gwardii, between them the twins contained 515 trade stalls, a number that would later soar to just under 900 before the outbreak of WWII. Something of a golden age, it was during the inter-war years that the halls became, in essence, the capital’s largest shopping center – to some, they were simply known as ‘the belly of Warsaw’. All walks of life gravitated towards these redbrick structures, with the tight tangle of streets surround-
ing the Halas teeming with catcalling traders, bagel sellers and horse-drawn carriages hauling goods to the market. On the now non-existent ul. Gnojna (where Park Mirowski now stands), raggedy market porters from Mirowska would convene in Gruby Jozek, an all-hours bar that would fill with everyone from dapper gangsters and rowdy prostitutes to actors, artists and heavy-drinking politicians. Such were the close quarters, one account from the time speaks of how ‘steam would rise like that of a locomotive’ above the heads of those that had gathered. When Gruby Jozek’s owner, Józef Chargeski, died in 1932 (unsurprising given his party piece of downing a liter of vodka), his funeral became a city-wide occasion. The area had lost a legend, but Mirowska flourished nonetheless and continued to do so till the Nazi occupation. Though it survived the Luftwaffe’s bombardment during the 1939 Siege of Warsaw, the darkest episode of its history lay around the corner. Utilized by the Germans to serve as a car workshop, the outbreak of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising saw Polish Home Army troops launch an attack to seize control of the building with the ensuing battle leading to both halls being gutted in the inferno. With the insurgents beaten back, Oskar Direlwanger’s notorious brigade rounded-up local civilians and throughout the 6th and 7th of August executed 510 Poles against the walls of Mirowska – today, bullet holes still pit the walls and bear silent testimony to the slaughter of innocents. Originally marked for complete demolition by Warsaw’s post-war city planners, the skeletal remains of Mirowska and Gwardii were saved following a public outcry and within a few years they were both back in action: first, serving as a bus depot filled with Chausson vehicles donated by the French. Soon though, by 1953, Gwardii was functioning as a sports hall and played host to the European Boxing Championships that very same year (see p. 18), with the performance of Poland’s fighters restoring the nation’s pride and uncorking a wave of pent-up, patriotic emotions. Successfully reimagined as a hip but unpretentious food hall in 2017, Gwardii’s subsequent prosperity has acted as a benchmark that most food halls have failed to surpass. Despite that, its crowning glory has been its symbiotic relationship with Mirowska next door. Both have managed to harmoniously co-exist, feeding off each other to add a richness to the area’s spiritual fabric. In Mirowska’s case, it returned to its market role not long after the war, and since then it has retained a reputation as the most ‘democratic’ of Warsaw’s food markets: as popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding Photograph by walking sticks like sabers, the accessibility of its price tags Mateusz Potempski is bettered only by the rich bounty of produce that >>> awaits those who visit. warsawinsider.pl
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MARKETS HALA MIROWSKA & GWARDII
In the post-war units attached to the core building, Darek at No. 17 has amassed a legendary reputation for his edible flowers and hard-to-find herbs; at 115, cheeses and handmade sausages are the order of the day; whilst Pani Anna at 114 has been called the Queen of Mirowska for her peerless skills handling a butcher’s cleaver. The buzz here is real and warranted. Rundown it might be, but it’s in this tight warren of alleys that the glory of Poland’s produce truly becomes apparent: hideous but delicious Gargamel tomatoes sit next to glistening aubergines and gigantic, juicy apples; tiny, crunchy cucumbers a stall away from nose-to-tail hunks of animal or vendors specializing in eggs (those of quail, duck, pheasant and more). Noisy and unkempt, chaotic and crammed, it’s a sensory overload that sends volts through the foodie. And beyond, more. Indoors, a browser’s haven: wheels of Georgian bread brought out triumphantly from a cylindrical clay oven; rotisserie chickens spinning on their skewers; as well as quirky little stalls specializing in the unexpected – at Foto-Larson, for instance, the best selection of vintage camera gear to be found in the city. Change, mind you, might lie ahead. News that BBI Development have entered an agreement with the city to reboot Hala Mirowska over the coming years has been met with a lukewarm response with many suspecting that the complex could lose the very character that makes it so special. Whether this happens, only time will tell. For now, though, the message is clear: enjoy it while you can or forever hold your peace.
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40
THE FAB
The forty things that scream Warsaw summer!
SEE THE CITY FROM ABOVE
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P A R T Y… O N A R O O F T O P
Did someone say party? Join the glitterati to boogie under (and with) the stars at The View, a 30th floor club filled with champagne swilling hotshots and pneumatically enhanced beauties. Closer to ground level, the 4th floor Sen has maneuvered itself to the top of Warsaw’s club rankings with its riverfront views and gorgeous clientele. P L O T… A N U R B A N S A F A R I
For evidence of Warsaw’s creative streak look no further than its walls. Funneling the voice of the wider community through the medium of art, supersize murals have transformed the city lending giant pops of color to previously unappreciated buildings. For a tour with a twist, plan out your own personalized urban art trail this summer: for an interactive map detailing Warsaw’s public art, point your mouse towards puszka. waw.pl. GO… TOPLESS
No, not like that you dirty so-and-so. Educate yourself about the city you find yourself in by boarding one of the open-top tourist buses that zip around town moving from one landmark to the next. Warsaw City Sightseeing (warsaw.city-sightseeing.pl) and Warsaw City Tour (city-tour.com.pl) operate on a hop on / hop off principle with routes taking in all the A-list sights. Multi-lingual audio guides complete the experience.
you missed it, then the same show is repeated every Friday and Saturday at 9 p.m. It’s awesome!
favorites. Nowhere, mind you, is more popular than the sandy beach on the Saska side of Poniatowski Bridge.
WALK… ON THE WILDSIDE
SEE… A FILM OUTDOORS
While it’s the revamped left side of the Wisła that gets the publicity, head to the right bank to explore the river’s wilder side. Of the city’s more enduring urban myths is the tale of a Japanese delegation asking the Mayor how much the city had spent creating the effect of an untamed riverbank in its full natural glory. “What amazing landscaping,” one delegate is said to have added. Though no more than an apocryphal tale, it says much about the uncultivated nature of this environmental wonder. Submerged in the tangled undergrowth, you feel truly cut off from the city beyond. S TA R T… S M O K I N G
Full of charred, smoky, meaty, manly goodness, no true summer is complete without a beery weekend barbecue. Should you choose to take your BBQ set down the local park, then bear in mind penalties of up to zł. 500 are dished out for sparking up in places where they’re forbidden. Of the places where you’re fine to do so, Park Skaryszewski, Pole Mokotowskie and Kępa Potocka are tried and tested
Summer heralds the appearance of numerous open-air cinemas, all costing zilch and offering a quirky program a zillion times more experimental than the blockbusters showing at the nearest multiplex. Pl. Europejski, Łazienki Park and the area around Ujazdowski Castle are all expected to once more offer such cinematic pleasures, but for the pick of the bunch google about to see what Filmowa Stolica have in the pipeline. Last year saw them operate at 27 locations, among them POLIN, Royal Wilanow and Saski Park. G E T I T… L I C K E D
As temperatures rise, so does Warsaw’s appetite for a cool-medown. Engage in your own Game Of Cones by hitting up the dozens of artisanal ice cream vendors that spring up each summer. From the Insider’s own experience, Limoni’s various branches are a benchmark in experimentation (salmon sorbet, anyone?), whilst Sucre, Melody and Lody Prawdizwe are also quite often outstanding. Vegans, too, can get in on the act by tracking Vegestacja. But for >>>
L I G H T U P… Y O U R N I G H T
Now reactivated after its annual winter hibernation, the Multimedia Fountain Park (park-fontann.pl) between the Old Town and river has entertained millions since launching eight years back. Fitted with 367 jets capable of firing 30,000 liters of water per minute, the carefully choreographed displays are paired with synchronized audio and visual displays to stunning effect. This year, organizers have opted to tell the city’s founders, Wars and Sawa, with over 35,000 people attending the official inauguration of ‘fountain season’ at the start of May. If
TA K E I N A M O V I E OUTDOORS
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SUMMER IN WARSAW FAB FORTY
our top scoop, head to Ice Pot in Hala Gwardii – on a highly competitive field, it rises above all with the best ice cream in the nation! WAT C H … S K I E S G O R E D
So vivid are they, Warsaw’s summer sunsets have you double-checking you haven’t fallen into a hallucinatory dream. Vantage points are many, but few compete with the cosmic rooftop garden on top of the BUW Library. If you’re in the Old Town, then puff your way up the 150 stairs leading to the viewing platform on top of St. Anne’s Church: your reward comes in the form of grandstand views of the historic center. S I P… A C R A Z Y C O C K T A I L
Go tiki at Kiti Bar or head to Bar Max for elaborate concoctions that bring to mind a tropical jungle. For something more sophisticated, then the Raffles Europejski Hotel brings to mind the days of the British Empire with its signature Singapore Sling. FEEL… THE MUSIC
First organized in 1959, the Sunday piano concerts (held at noon and 4 p.m.) that occur under the shadow of the Chopin monument in Łazienki Park have become one of the city’s proudest calling cards. Listen to musicians both established and upcoming recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in a pristine, rose-fringed setting that the composer himself would surely approve of. With each performance drawing an estimated 3,000 people, get there early to swag the best seats. CHECK IN… AT N O C N Y M A R K E T
Returning unexpectedly for one last summer before builders move in to remodel Warszawa Główna, find the weekend Nocny Market set on a battered old platform of this knackered-out station. Here, ethnic food outlets stand next to DJ booths, tented tattoo parlors and temporary stalls selling silly socks and vintage posters. Raw and unfailingly hip, it remains one of the edgiest check-ins of the summer.
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SHRINK… THE CITY
Offering visitors a chance to travel back in time and feel the atmosphere of the city as it was in 18th and 19th centuries, the outdoor Park Miniatur (miniaturymazowieckie.com) features fifteen 1:25 scale models of both lost and surviving landmarks such as Saski Palace and the wooden summer theater that once stood in Saski Gardens. The detail is incredible and the final effect utterly enchanting. H I T… T H E S T R E E T
Though details remained sketchy at press time, each summer for the past few years has seen Praga’s spiritual gateway – ul. Ząbkowska – closed to traffic at weekends and transformed into a street party featuring outbreaks of yoga, an antiques market trading vintage books and vinyl, traditional folk bands parping into dented brass instruments and eccentric events that have, in the past, included silent discos, dog parades and a ‘mannequin march’. Audaciously eccentric, fingers are crossed that the Otwarta Ząbkowska festival will return once again. WAT C H … P E O P L E
With a population that’s high on weird characters and head-turning stunners, people watching becomes an almost compulsory sport once the café terraces open. Though Pl. Zbawiciela is no longer the crucible of hip that it once was, afternoon coffee under the colonnades of Charlotte remains a rite of passage. More current, Hala Koszyki and Poznańska street offer delicious viewing opportunities for eager social observers. K E E P… D R Y
When the summer storms hit the city shakes to thunder. Keep dry by sitting it out in one of the city’s stranger café gardens: at Francuska 30, find tables protected by dozens of colored brollies dangling overhead. J O I N … A PA R A D E
Impromptu political manifestations aside, the sunny months mean an
outbreak of parades and marches to suit every taste. In June, the biggie is the Equality Parade (paradarownosci. eu), but do also look out for weirdness such as the 6th Annual Fur Suit Walk and a zombie parade. In essence, expect the unexpected. LAZE… IN A HAMMOCK
Shoes off, cap down, phone off, book out. Enjoy some ‘me time’ by climbing into one of the hammocks lining the riverfront boulevards on the west side of the Wisła, or else head up to the Park Ujazdowski to swing in the breeze in the shadow of the Zamek. CRASH… A WEDDING
Well, why not? With the majority of Poland’s churches representing extravagant exercises in Catholic excess, soak in stunning ecclesiastical interiors whilst also enjoying the vicarious, voyeuristic pleasure of watching strangers getting hitched. Photobomb opportunities await! G E T… J A Z Z Y
You wouldn’t necessarily guess it given the dearth of decent jazz clubs, but here’s a city that loves it jazz. For proof, see the success of the Warsaw Summer Jazz Festival (adamiakjazz.pl) and Jazz In The Old Town (jazznastarowce.pl). Attracting huge international names, as well as showcasing Poland’s own copious domestic talent, both events have become entrenched in local culture. ORDER… CHŁODNIK
Cool and creamy, chłodnik is the traditional taste of the Polish summer. Announcing itself in a shock of pink color, this cold beet soup is as essential to the country’s cuisine as gazpacho is to Spain’s. Many restaurants get it brilliantly right, but few nail it in the same way as either Stary Dom or Schabowy. GA Z E … S TA R S
Consider Poland’s tallest building – the Stalinist era Palace of Culture & Science (pkin.pl) – as the prime perch in town. Open till 11:30 p.m. each > > >
GET WET ON THE WISŁA
BECOME A TOURIST IN YOUR OWN CITY
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SUMMER IN WARSAW FAB FORTY
FLEE TOWN TO DISCOVER A R K A D I A PA R K
Friday and Saturday through summer, the 30th floor observation deck offers peerless views of the toy town glinting down below. Watching the city’s nocturnal illuminations flicker on is an experience well deserving of the zł. 22 admission. C R O S S … T H E WAT E R
For a different view of Warsaw, board one of the water trams (ztm.waw.pl) that crisscross the Wisła and pootle about the river. For something more personalized – and beery – give Przystań Nowa Fala a shout to arrange a journey in one of their vessels. Seen from the water, the city feels distinctly different and oddly unrecognizable. S A S H A Y… T H R O U G H A F O U N TA I N
Spurting to a height of 15-meters, head to the center of Norman Foster’s donut-shaped Metropolitan building to run through what’s thought to be the first ‘intelligent’ fountain in the country. Costing over half a million zees, the Canadian-designed system responsively reacts to wind condi-
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tions to ensure no accidental soakings. But usurping it in popularity, make a beeline to Pl. Europejski to find an array of water jets hemmed in by carefully poised shrubbery and winding pathways. With the Warsaw Spire lit up at night, and so too the square’s iconic I Heart Warsaw neon, it’s pretty dazzling at night.
in 2010, what had hitherto been an overgrown park has been reinvented as a shining new plaza filled with water features, benches, granite and greenery. A serene alcove in the center of the city, the feeling of being in a small micro-world is underlined by the proximity of cobbled, pre-war Próżna and its lively bistro scene.
HOBNOB… WITH THE ELITE
RIDE… ON WHEELS
To feel like you’ve intruded onto the set of a Tommy Hilfiger shoot, rub shoulders with the city’s decision makers at the Warsaw Polo Club (warsawpoloclub.pl), or thwack golf balls around the scenic surrounds of the 18-hole First Warsaw Golf Club (firstwarsaw.pl). After, watch swans glide around whilst enjoying drinks on the wooden, lakeside terrace. DISCOVER… AN URBAN OASIS
Penned in by an ever-growing forest of skyscrapers, Pl. Grzybowski feels architecturally eclectic, socially diverse and just primed for summer. Revived
Beginning with the Veturilo bike share scheme a few years back, the capital has fallen hook, line and sinker for shared modes of transport. Currently, electric scooters as provided by operators such as Lime and Hive have proved all the rage. A fab way to get out and about, sign-up / download the relevant apps before you too become mobile. Insider tip: don’t be an idiot. If you’re on a scooter, look out for pedestrians and park it up properly. Thanks. C AT C H … T H E S H A D E
Aside from their unusual aromas, the courtyards of Old Praga are known for their religious shrines. The
THEY'RE COMING FOR YOU... J O I N A Z O M B I E PA R A D E
majority of these Mary’s appeared during the war, bringing with them a much-needed sense of “security, solidarity and even freedom” to the residents that gathered around them. To this day, they remain carefully tended and intricately decorated, lending a brilliant color to the battered backyards of this gritty suburb. Buried in permanent shadow, entering these darkened recesses is a riveting glimpse into the Warsaw of old. I M M E R S E Y O U R S E L F… IN GREEN
Constructed in 1945 as emergency housing for architects given the task of rebuilding Warsaw, the Finnish Houses (so-called because they were built using materials requisitioned from Finland) rank as one of the Seven Wonders of Warsaw. Set in the city center, right behind the French Embassy, this neighborhood (jazdow. pl) of timber chalets and flourishing greenery feels like a secretive, fairy tale world. Not dissimilar to entering a lost, rural village, the area is at its best in summer when the resident NGOs ramp up their community activities.
POWER… TO THE FLOWER
PICK… YOUR OWN FRUIT
An extraordinary bolt hole of horticultural treasure, visit the University of Warsaw’s Botanical Garden (ogrod. uw.edu.pl). Although just five hectares in size, looping pathways take day trippers through a thrilling cacophony of color that presents in excess of 6,000 species. Amid them, find historic bits and pieces such as a 19th century Astronomical Observatory, a hothouse once used to cultivate figs and pineapples for Poland’s nobility and a small brick chapel that was to form part of a giant Temple of Divine Providence.
Take the farm-to-fork philosophy to the next level by picking your own fruit and veg at the Majlert farm (majlert.pl). Celebrated by chefs and restaurateurs, this family-run enterprise on the outskirts of Warsaw has long enjoyed a cracking reputation for its eco-minded produce. If you’re visiting at the weekend, keep in mind that in June they also offer group dinners held outdoors in the middle of their fields. It’s positively life affirming!
E AT… AT A F O O D T R U C K
The economic annihilation brought about by the ‘credit crunch’ did have a silver lining: from these financial dire straits, the food truck thrived courtesy of offering artisanal food at recessionproof price points. And people loved them so much that they stuck around. Now a Warsaw summer fixture, the regular food truck meets organized by Żarcie Na Kółkach (fb.com/zarcienakolkach) bring together the best of the best.
BE… A TOURIST
And that means heading to the Old Town! Lacking the year-round vibrancy of, say, Kraków or Wrocław, Warsaw’s historic quarter only ever really hits its stride in summer; that’s when the area throbs with visitors both local and foreign. True, drinking and dining options remain something of a minefield, but the emergence of venues such as Same Krafty craft beer bar, the elegant Bar & Books cocktail den, and the ever reliable Warszawski Sznyt restaurant give reason to linger once > > > warsawinsider.pl
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the sightseeing is done. But before all that, make it your mission to first check the reenergized Museum of Warsaw, stroll the walls of the Barbikan, clamp a lovelock to the railings of Gnojna Góra and otherwise peer into unexplored courtyards and dusty antique stores.
renaissance in recent times. Over a dozen outdoor ‘bulodroms’ exist, among them in pretty little parks such as Krasińskich, Ujazdowski, Żeromskiego and Powsin.
F O L L O W… T H E H E R D
Fool your followers into thinking you’re in downtown Beirut by firing out a pic of the palm on Rondo de Gaulle’a. To really look the biz, shoot the tree as if it’s positioned between your thumb and your forefinger then sit back and watch the likes stack up. Unveiled in 2002 by artist Joanna Rajkowska, the 15-meter plastic palm scandalized Warsaw when it was originally revealed, but has since become a much-loved landmark.
DRINK… HOMEMADE LEMONADE
S T E P… I N T O T H E UNKNOWN
DRESS… YOUR BEST
To the Wisła you must go. The dramatic redevelopment of the left bank has left Warsaw with one of the most enviable river scenes in Central Europe, and that’s despite a recent clampdown on noise and carnage. Gentrifying it might be, but it remains culturally compelling and mined with attractions. From weekend breakfast markets to al fresco screenings, via outdoor concerts and random happenings, the Wisła Boulevards are where all life gathers when the mercury peaks. C H E C K … M AT E
Forget rollerblading, yoga, frisbee and football. Instead, use Warsaw’s parks for something a little more cerebral. Usually the preserve of miserable old geezers, check out the outdoor chess boards on the left side of the Wisła, Park Praski, Bródno Park and a few other places besides. When you’re done with that, keep in mind that boules has enjoyed an unlikely
I N S TAG R A M … T H E PA L M
It’s warm and dry, ergo, you’ve hit upon the best time to get on your hands and knees and sneak into the derelict hulks that pepper the city. Urban explorers have a comprehensive list of sites to bust their way into, and these include the abandoned carcass of Marymont’s football stadium, the SKRA sports complex and the graffiti strewn wreck that is Fort Bema. But for the undisputed champ, look to ‘the Wola Colosseum’. So named for their rotund shape
and tall arcing windows, the two former gas tanks that constitute this amphitheater-style wonder are serene, surreal and a little unsettling. Just remember: be careful and don’t tell anyone we told you about it (yes, you are trespassing).
Warsaw’s specialty coffee scene has erupted, but it’s not just new wave coffee that people are drinking. Many of these cult cafés have also proven dab hands at perfecting the art of mixing domowe lemoniady – and the locals just love it. There’s too many to pick, but Insider approved haunts include Stor, Filtry and Relaks.
Style mavens need not look beyond Mokotowska, an antique, Parisianstyle street that’s commonly hailed as the heart of Polish fashion. All the domestic big guns are here, with a style and quality that’s fully in line with Western expectations. Away from the world of haute couture, join the cool kids by stocking up on labels like Pan Tu Nie Stał and Local Heroes (as sported by Bieber, Cyrus and Delevingne!) have exceled when it comes to wacky designs and / or snappy slogans. H E A D … O U T TA’ T O W N
NIGHT TIME IS THE RIGHT T I M E AT T H E M U LT I M E D I A F O U N TA I N S BY O L D T O W N
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Everyone else does at some stage, so do so as well. Classic weekend jaunts include the Gothic ruins of Czersk Castle some 60 minutes from Warsaw; Podkowa Leśna, Poland’s first garden city and a haven of sumptuous villas and wooded parks; and the romantic English-style park in Arkadia (as in the town not the shopping mall). Forty-five mins north of Warsaw, Lake Zegrze has long attracted water babies thanks to the sailing opportunities it affords, whilst landlubbers could do worse than boarding a train and heading to the charming but under-visited town of Piotrków Trybunalski. Like Piotrków, Łódź too is 90 minutes away and is now firmly ensconced as Poland’s capital of cool – for that, thank its design heritage, cool factory scene, mad wall art, and party vibe.
R O O F T O P N I G H T S AT S E N
FIND NEW PERSPECTIVES AT T H E PA L AC E O F C U LT U R E A N D S C I E N C E
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Sp Par ot tne lig r ht
A Night To Remember
Tajemnicza Kolacja (“Mysterious Dinner”) is an interactive experience that joins gourmet dining with theatrical thrills. Organized by Wyjątkowy Prezent, the event is the first of its kind in Poland. Over a two-part meal, diners must crack riddles and solve puzzles with the post-industrial climate of Mała Warszawa adding to the uniqueness of the atmosphere. Tickets are available from www.wyjatkowyprezent.pl or at Wyjątkowy Prezent outlets in various shopping centers. Mała Warszawa ul. Otwocka 14
NEWSFLASH! Already a stonking success in the city center, May saw the wonder-
ful Bombaj Masala extend their operations to cover a new location across the river in Centrum Praskie Koneser – of the innovations are Indian tapas, the first such dishes to be found in Warsaw.
Eyes & Lenses
“Eyes and Lenses” is an annual, 4-day ethnographic film review organized by Etno and Stowarzyszenie Pracownia Etnograficzna. The review presents both new and classic films made by both Polish and foreign artists, with this year’s program involving many films that haven’t yet been shown to a wider audience. Running from June 7th to June 10th, Saturday’s review will also be accompanied by a folk band at 8:25 p.m. Admission is free and all films will be shown in their original language and accompanied with Polish subtitles. XIV Ethnographic Films Review ‘Eyes and Lenses’ Służewski Dom Kultury ul. Bacha 15, oczyiobiektywy.art.pl
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BACK TO THE ROOTS
Warsaw’s eastern flank sees the debut of its first farmers’ market…
I
nspired by NYC’s Union Square Greenmarket, the open air Koneser's Farmer's Market is the first such initiative on Warsaw’s right bank; buying direct from farmers and artisan producers, a wealth of choice awaits those who visit: fresh and smoked Mazurian fish from Paweł Szymczak, the pedigree meats of Piotr Lenart and Niech Cię Zakole, cottage cheese from Kaszubska Koza and fresh bread from Michał Molenda. With no intermediaries involved, everything you see comes direct from source. Presenting dozens of carefully selected vendors, the fabled produce of the Podlasie region will be strongly represented courtesy of the Lokalni Naturalni cooperative. Of the other highlights, cult status is assured for the cucumbers of the family-run Kiszonki Pana Tadka, whilst Grzegorz Marynowski will supply seasonal delicacies such as asparagus and sea buckthorn. And taking care of the sweeter side of life, look out for the sweet treats of Cytrynowe Królowe and Latosowo. An emphatic departure from the world of big labels and mass production, we’re proud to bring the concept of good living and slow food to the heart of Praga’s magical Koneser complex. Koneser's Farmer's Market Pl. Konesera 1 Open Sat 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
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Sp Par ot tne lig r ht
HIGH STANDARDS AT FIRST FLOOR!
Join us on the first floor of one of the hottest addresses in Wola!
L
ocated on the first floor of the Varsovia Aparatamenty building, our restaurant offers great Polish and international cuisine and a medley of other attractions that will appeal to both residents and tourists alike. Starting with breakfast, we’re proud of our European-style buffet whose rich variety
includes several hot dishes, a salad bar and live cooking station – something unique not just for Wola, but Warsaw as a whole. And look no further if you’re vegetarian – paired with our aromatic coffees and comprehensive choice of teas, our breakfast offer covers all necessary bases. Should you be visiting on business, then we also offer breakfast, lunches and evening dinners geared towards corporate travelers and can arrange conference space for those wishing to marry food with business. Outside of work, join us each weekend for our Family Weekend Dinner: in addition to a special buffet featuring fresh juices and a special kids menu, enjoy entertainment provided by professional animators from one of the top children’s companies in the country – everyone, no matter their age, is guaranteed to enjoy their visit! First Floor Restaurant ul. Kasprzaka 31 (1st floor, Varsovia Apartamenty), tel. 22 255 99 50
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Sp Par ot tne lig r ht
FIFTH AVENUE STYLE F
ifth Avenue, a leading Irish beauty chain operating since 2007, has expanded its operations to Poland. Located on fashionable Mokotowska, find Warsaw’s first branch of Fifth Avenue flanked by a series of luxury boutiques and atmospheric restaurants. Offering a wide range of hand and foot treatments, nail styling, massage and waxing, our desire to work with only the best products was the inspiration behind the creation of our own line of creams for the hands and feet. These products, along with our original series of peels and fragrant bath salts are available in the salon and can be enjoyed during our on-site treatments. We believe that by ensuring a high standard of service, using the best brands on the market, and providing an unforgettable atmosphere, that we have created a loyal customer base that wouldn't consider going elsewhere. Visit us to find out why!' Fifth Avenue Warszawa ul. Mokotowska 49, open Mon-Fri 9:30 a.m. – 8 p.m.; Sat 9:30 a.m. – 4 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m. – 5 p.m. fb: Fifth Avenue Warszawa Instagram: fifth_avenue_warszawa
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AMBER DAYS
T
he Amber Room offers exquisite Ă la carte dishes that change seasonally and which are accompanied by a magnificent selection of wines handpicked by our sommelier. The restaurant also offers a tasting menu and a varied lunch menu. In summer, the chef offers excellent grilled meats and vegetarian options whilst the terrace, set overlooking Ujazdowski Park, is perfect for idling on long, sunny days. Enjoy it with our delicious caipirinha, made in accordance with an original recipe straight from Rio de Janeiro!
Amber Room Restaurant Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. +48 600 800 999 recepcja@amberroom.pl, www.amber-room.pl
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eat!
PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA
HARDCORE FOOD PORN
Home to one of the most exciting vegan scenes in the world (yep, really!), more evidence of Warsaw’s plant-based fixation comes with Vege Małpa, a place with a raw, hipster design (monkey wallpaper, cheerful street art, retro fittings and cheeky, offbeat touches) and a menu that presents X-rated food porn at its filthy best. The meat-free kebabs and kimchi mad-dogs sell well, but it’s the burgers that make the news. The Smurf-colored Big Blue is a towering wonder of gooey ingredients, though the BBQ Blackout is what we’d return for: composed of vegan bacon, roasted onions, pickles and a bun that’s blacker than midnight, it’s the final word in junky pleasure. Vege Małpa ul. Poznańska 3 & Racławicka 7
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EAT! review
SMACZNeEgo ul. Warszawska 60 (Konstancin-Jeziorna)
LITTLE ITALY
Special moments await in not-so-distant Konstancin…
F
irst things first and there are those that will gripe about the location of SMACZNeEgo: “Konstancin,” they’ll whine, “but isn’t that far?” The answer depends on how you view distance. At around zł. 50 by cab from the center, it’s closer than Italy and a damn sight cheaper. More so, it’s every bit as good. Really? How so? An unexpected joy, SMACZNeEgo feels special the
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moment you arrive. Set within a network of former garages, step inside to find a venue that’s designed with ambience in mind – in one room, an informal space set with groceries and baked goods amid crates and tables, and in another, an intimate dining room that exudes warmth and wellbeing and feelings of home. Already, you know it’s a journey that’s been worthwhile. It’s a suspicion that bears fruit with the arrival of the food. Founded by Aleksandra Hłasko, SMACZNeEgo derives pleasure from simple things done well. “Basically,” says Aleksandra, “I wanted to show that simple can be good.” And oh yes it is. The first class selection includes Ragusano cheese, matured for 24-months; meaty Etna olives marinated in sea salt and olive
PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
oil; Il Viceré cheese with saffron and black peppercorn; plump tomatoes from a local farm; and layers of ham from small-scale producers. Ligurian-style focaccia is soft and oily and everything good, and complimented perfectly with vinegars from boutique bio brands such as I Natali. Washed down with wines from the likes of La Torre and Menegola, the feeling is of languorous good times on a holiday abroad. So yes, that zł. 50 taxi fare is money well-spent. Fancy a break in Italy? Then do so via a jaunt to Konstancin.
Pizza Boyz ul. Marszałkowska 17
CHEESUS CRUST!
Millennial dreams are realized in Pizza Boyz…
A
satirical comment on the modern world or a fascinating anthropological study of millennial culture? Whatever it is, Pizza Boyz is as brash and in-yer-face as the name may suggest. If you’re over twenty, then you’re over the hill. Targeted at a generation that speaks in emojis and rides skateboards to class, here’s a place that’s forever young.
Look
Woah. Colors of lipstick pink, electric blue and dandelion yellow have you thinking you’ve walked into a packet of Skittles, whilst other touches are provided by exposed girders, wire mesh fencing and chain-link swings. If you don’t have a headache then you will in a second.
Order
And here’s where things get really ridiculous. Refusing to take itself seriously, choose from bonkers pizzas with names like Coke Dope Cheezy Eazy (jalapeno plus Coca Cola BBQ sauce…) or the Flamin’ Hot Cheetos Chicken – yep, liberally layered with Cheeto nuggets. Then there’s the Carolina Reaper, a pizza that boldly claims to the be the hottest on earth. And if that’s not enough, then find them pimping wacky pancakes featuring fillings such as M&Ms and triple bacon (together!!). Backing that up, order crazy cocktails that are an exercise in sugar overload: extreme creations that involve hollowed-out pineapples or wisps of cotton candy.
Final Word
The weird bit is… it’s actually very likeable. Daft and dizzy as the concept may seem, people here have fun. Much against our will, we did as well. There’s better food out there for sure, but for wacky, guilty pleasure then it’s thunderingly weird and strangely addictive.
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EAT! Review
UKRAINIAN REVOLUTION
The food of Poland’s eastern neighbor gets a thrilling new direction in Kanapa…
The Place
When the Insider first visited at the start of last year, Kanapa was described by our reviewer as ‘a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to add that little sense of home.’ It remains just so, with a swirling staircase connecting the different levels inside this grand pre-war villa, and a lush green garden stealing the show in summer.
House Classics
Forego the borsch at your peril. Landing on the table inside a big, hollow cabbage, find chunks of meat and stewed pears and plums bobbing in an invigorating beetroot broth that comes with a big whack of sour cream. It’s as good now as it is in winter, but to stay seasonal then the chłodnik, poured table-side from a bottle, is a cooling alternative that’s refreshing, light and just right for summer. Ukraine’s answer to Poland’s pierogi are varenyky, and here the extensive choice includes ‘black dumplings with smoked mackerel’ to more expected options such as strawberry dumplings. Both need a danger tag, for they are seriously addictive. For the main event, then rest assured that meat is something that they’ve mastered. For the Insider, that meant leg of lamb and beef steak, both served in a rich port wine sauce.
For Summer
Unexpected twists dominate, and in summer that means debuts for a green pea guacamole that’s both verdant and creamy, and a celery-cucumber salad crowned with crayfish meat and drizzled in lemon-egg sauce. Zingy and deliciously more-ish, it’s further proof of a chef exploring the boundaries of his national cuisine. Surprised! Kanapa’s principal skill lies in its reimagining of a cuisine that many assume to be lumpy, stolid and barren of ideas. Not so. Here, the Ukrainian kitchen becomes a laboratory of experimentation and unexpected twists: edible candles made from butter; velvety chicken-duck-carrot pate served from a can; spheres of carp in carrot glaze and cider jelly; and an array of Ukrainian wines and spirits to add kick to the evening. Though built on tradition, it’s a menu and restaurant that seeks to view Ukraine through a fresh set of eyes; and in this it succeeds, and in brilliant style.
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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
Prepare to be…
Kanapa ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa.restauracja
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EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.
american 44 bakeries 44 balkan 44 chinese 44 comfort & street food 44 desserts 45 fine dining 46 french 48 georgian 48 greek & turkish 48 hungarian 49 indian 49 indonesian 50 international 50 italian 55 japanese 56 korean 56 latin & spanish 57 mexican 58 middle eastern 58 polish 59 scandinavian 64 seafood 64 specialty food shops 65 steak houses 66 thai 67 ukrainian 67 vegan & wholefood 67 vietnamese 68
american Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red
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onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious. Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43
balkan Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well. It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. Full review soon. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), tel. 22 118 38 38, nabalkany.pl
chinese
Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in
sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar To Tu Dumpling Bar A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl Udon Noodle Bar Hidden behind fogged-up windows, the simplistic interiors belie a brief menu that has struck a chord with the local Chinese community for the authenticity of its hand-stretched Lamian noodles and freshly-steamed dim sum – they look good, and they eat even better. Reminiscent of the kind of clattery venue found in China Towns the world over, what the Udon Noodle bar lacks in choice and aesthetics is counter-balanced courtesy of plump little dumplings you can’t get enough of. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 85
comfort & street food Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their American-style speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Ben Bagel Harking to the area’s not-too-distant hipster past, discover a Williamsburg-
EAT! Listings style hole-in-the-wall that’s all parquet, brickwork and flashes of groovy neon. It looks cool, and you’re going to linger longer for all-natural, non-dairy piping hot bagels stuffed with unlikely exotica such as kimchi, bacon, cheddar, roasted onions and aioli sauce. It’s sticky, messy and flawlessly brilliant. NYC has never felt closer. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 8 Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Efes Forget the restaurant bit, it’s the window hatch you’ll want. Here, muddy manual laborers and polo-shirted locals tolerate each other to stand in chaotic queues that often snake onto the street. The reason? Warsaw’s finest kebab. (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, restauracjaefes.pl Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Not ones to stand still, May saw the addition of a narrow indoor avenue towards the back flanked on each side by busy street food stalls. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek
kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a simple concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means rotisserie chickens and guinea fowl served on wooden trays with an array of homemade sauces that include sweet plum, spicy mango and Sriracha. Amiable service, a funky / retro design (old LPs, PRL-era flooring and a bank of step-seats sprinkled with cushions) and a decent selection of craft beers and wines complete the picture. Young and fun, it’s exactly what Muranów has been missing for several years. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb. (D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working
day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc. Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl
desserts Croccante Resistance is futile: surrender to made-on-site cronut creations such as the Philadelphia (strawberry sauce, white chocolate and cheesecake cream) or the Tropicana (mango & passionfruit cream, a shiny mango coating and Malibu with coconut milk), before forever slipping into a pleasing food coma inside a smart interior of glinting gold colors and soft velvet fabrics. (E5) ul. Żurawia 1A Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska. The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul. Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com El Krepel The rather tantalizing donuts include dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. The work of Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna Pankowska, it’s a charming, bijou space of fun, frilly style – think pretty pink seats and a wall overlaid with hundreds of warsawinsider.pl
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EAT! Listings rosebuds. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 12/16 La Vanille Remember when everyone in the world began wolfing down cupcakes? La Vanille was born of that time. Though the general appetite for these dinky treats has waned, the popularity of La Vanille hasn’t. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, lavanille.pl Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere. Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times. Various locations, lukullus.pl Miss Mellow Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked
rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. (D5) ul. Wilcza 62 MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8 Odette The original spot for ‘fine dining desserts’, Odette’s cool interior causes attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glint like boutique little jewels. (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn. Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color. Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7
fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restau-
A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro
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rant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important. Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an outof-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, we’re visiting soon to see if anything’s changed in their new city center venue. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop with a contemporary menu often drawing spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy. Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for expense account meetings.(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block. Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the daily-changing menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. So the
EAT! Listings the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com
rumors go, Michelin are watching closely. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, choldna15.pl Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl
Nolita BEST WAWA 2017 “Fine Dining” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with
Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-by-note’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the WTF prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl
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EAT! Listings french Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000
L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl
Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France. Reopened after a sabbatical, Leon’s return is cause for joy. (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5
georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid
the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela), rioni.pl Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl
greek & turkish Maho The generic diner decor bother no-one, and for pretty good reason – the food is thunderbolt good. Get the Iskender: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of tomato sauce and fresh pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525
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EAT! Listings Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, fb.com/ sofra.warszawa
hungarian Borpince Modernized versions of traditional Magyar cuisine come served in surrounds that feel even more familial given the 100-odd wines from the various regions of Hungary. (D4) ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl
indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl
Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl
Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl
Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl
Discover the True Taste of India in Several Locations around Warsaw WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL
HOŻA 54
ŻEROMSKIEGO 81
KONDRATOWICZA 59
536 443 771
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789 444 921
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EAT! Listings a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul. Belwederska 44
‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’
Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00
Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl
Rasoi A cheerful neighborhood style prevails in Rasoi, a friendly restaurant whose positive vibe is expressed via a design that mixes white wooden furnishings against a positive outbreak of colorful cushions. The North Indian food has a habit of raising spirits with its bold spices and authentic style. (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, rasoi.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes
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indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street food edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34
international Ale Wino Blurring the lines between wine bar and restaurant, the style is easy, breezy and powerfully magnetic – occupying a spread of atmospheric rooms to the back of a Mokotowska courtyard, seats are sometimes hard to come by. The reason: chef Sebastian Wełpa. Of the recent highlights, the rump of lamb with horseradish puree, marinated carrot and bison grass sauce stands out as one of the Insider’s top meals of 2018. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Aurelio Run by a ‘neuro-gastronomist’, Aurelio aims to connect art and emotions with health and wellbeing via the medium of food. Psychobabble aside, what you’ll find is a beautifully laid-out restaurant with some mesmerizing art, a busy cultural program and a globally-inspired menu based on toxin free produce. For instance, order up a Thai-style duck breast served with orange-ginger puree, elderflower foam and smoked plum sauce – it’s likely you’ll be impressed. (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, aurelio.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative
EAT! Listings decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl
Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef. (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.
Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price /
Modern take on Italian cuisine Focaccia Ristorante Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town +48 22 829 69 69, restauracja@focaccia.pl www.focaccia.pl
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EAT! Listings consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712, fb.com/ RestauracjaDOM Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green
banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Bring out the clichés: at Fest quality rules over quantity. Food-wise, there’s not much to choose from, but it’s doubtful you’ll find better ribs for a few hundred miles. Cooked outdoors on a beast of a smoker, these are glorious things of atavistic joy. Improving the mood yet further is the backdrop, a timber cabin in a wooded part of Warsaw. There’s nowhere else like it. (G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8 First Floor Restaurant Chic, elegant touches combine with a fully open kitchen visible from practically all angle. Live music is an inseparable element of the First Floor experience, with blues, hazz and Latino performances scheduled every weekend. ul. Kasprzaka 31 (Varsovia Apartamenty), firstfloorrest.pl
GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz
is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away. Designed by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. Full report soon. (E4) ul. Kopernika 5 Kieliszki Na Hożej Set on the corner of an ornate pre-war building, Kieliszki casts a warm, beckoning glow on the street outside – resisting its charms is entirely impossible. The cooking is just as seductive and sees Polish mainstays such as dumplings, tartare and herring given a 21st century update. Superb wines, all of which are available by the glass, round out the experience. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl
Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jack-ofall-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and
Hungarian cuisine, modern interiors and a wine cellar in the very heart of Warsaw
ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 22 828 22 44, www.borpince.com, info@borpince.pl
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EAT! Listings sharing plates. Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. Al. Jana Pawła II 45A Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2018 “Casual Dining” Where odd couplings are concerned, MOD takes the biscuit: hip donut store by day, at night it morphs into a cool restaurant whose card veers between steaming bowls of ramen and inventive modern dishes that harness the chef’s classic French training (think: beef cheeks with gremolata, tahini mash, veal jus and caramelized sprouts). It’s crazy popular with creative types touting man buns and t-shirts that threaten: “I Shoot Hipsters”. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Mood Step down into a gorgeous network of subterranean rooms to dine under vaulted brick ceilings and slick, modern finishes.
The menu is an apt mirror of the interior styling with top-of-class ingredients presented in a manner that feels modern and creative. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 66, mood-restaurant. com Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example. (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9
PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam.com.pl
Pera Inspired by their owner’s travels to New York, Dubai, Berlin and Paris, Pera looks to present a mix of Mediterranean and Asian tastes courtesy of Nestor Grajewski – he’s cooked for Scorsese, Diaz and Di Caprio, now he’s cooking for you! Al. Krakowska 248 Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink colors lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully warsawinsider.pl
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EAT! Listings plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2018 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go for the golden schnitzel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. Upscalecasual has rarely felt this good. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2018 “Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership,
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Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20. com.pl
Sphinx One of Poland’s best-known and most popular restaurant chains touches down on Krucza to offer their tried and tested formula of steaks and Middle Easterninspired dishes. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, sphinx.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for
evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/ Supperlardo Warszawski Sznyt Sure the Old Town looks cute, but that doesn’t mean it can cook. Behind the frilly front rooms of the district’s restaurants lie kitchens of catastrophic reputation – they don’t exist to make you feel good, they’re there to rob you of your money. But rules have exceptions and in Old Town’s case that means Warszawski Sznyt. Outstanding Nowy Polski cuisine presented in prettified form, as well as a pan European menu bristling with regional specialties inside an interior that’s sleek, stylish and contemporary. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl White One The changing face of Koszykowa street is almost embodied by White One – where once stood a disintegrating tenement stands a revamped building with a super swanky ground floor restaurant. Ideal for those nights you want to make an impression, interiors are well-spaced, smart and
BISTRO&DELI
Konstancin, Warszawska 60
SMACZNe -Ego
EAT! Listings modern but never too intimidating. The pared-down menu is fully reflective of contemporary dining trends: innovations include a 5-course vegan tasting menu, as well as a 7-course menu entirely dependent on the whims of the chef – you won’t know what’s in store till it lands on the table! Full review soon. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Winsky Points are earned for an edgy selection of ‘tap wines’ and a menu of small plates that are Polish in spirit but not short on international twists and turns. The design, with its deep sofas and plush, dark fabrics, is refined and considered while the riverside views pure sunset bliss. Ideal for dating. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10 Zoni BEST WAWA 2018 “Modern Polish” Zoni Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress. And impressed you will be. Outgoing chef Aleksander Baron is a tough act to follow, but incoming Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow. His menu promises a departure from Baron’s ‘modernized heritage cuisine’, and instead looks set to present a more rounded, international gastronomic view. We expect fireworks. Full report soon. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today
italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased. Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here! Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9
Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl
As recommended in the Warsaw Insider's 2019 Best of Warsaw issue!
2019
Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Magari As Raffles and the Warszawa proved last year, so the Puro demonstrates this year: hotel restaurants are no longer the preserve of travelers alone. A design-led, eclectic interior houses a venue that thrusts the talents of Mateusz Wichrowski to the fore, with the highly-rated chef presenting a modernized spin on Italian cuisine. Already, faves include the handmade pastas, the spicy Nduja pizza and roasted duck breast served with stewed red chicory and Marsala sauce. (D4) ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel) Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels
Enjoy our patio with friends or for a quiet dinner for two at all our locations
Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299
Le Cedre 61
(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166
Le Cedre 84
(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999
www.lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl
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EAT! Listings every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better. Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat drycured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure. (F4) ul. Solec 85
japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks
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you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul. Piękna 54
Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl
Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4
Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl
Mizu Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, Mizu’s sushi sets a benchmark that Warsaw’s other Japanese joints can only aspire to. The off-center location adds to the impression of dining somewhere that only those in the loop know about. ul. Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl
Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl
Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 59 58, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24
Yatta Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. (E3) Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/ YattaBowl
korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat
EAT! Listings has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700
bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest
KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every
Yache Korea Though primarily known as the capital of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, Nowogrodzka is beginning to demonstrate that she’s more than just a one-trick pony. Helping the food angle is this newbie, a steamy little venue that’s all clatter and commotion. Design barely goes beyond a wall of potted plants, but with a place of this size all you need is four people and presto, you’ve got an atmosphere. On the food front, the crispy chicken embraces
Sora Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. (A4) ul. Wronia 45
the seoul (ha!) like comfort food at its best, and the bulgogi the best we’ve had this year – not bad going seeing there’s not a Korean in the kitchen. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25
latin & spanish Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2018 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and
Jana Moliera 4/6 22 826 5958 moliera@sakana.pl www. sakana.pl
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EAT! Listings sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns. A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl
mexican El Popo Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. (C2) ul. Senatorska 27 Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living
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up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54
middle eastern
Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl
Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl
Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul. Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl
Maghreb Featuring the casual air of good times, head to Maghreb for vibrant Moroccan classics such as merguez sausages and tajine dishes served in traditional earthenware vessels. With the first chills of winter lapping at the door, it’s a restaurant that provides solace and reassurance. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra is a welldesigned nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl Tagine Having already scored considerable successes with Miss Kimchi and KoreaTown Rest, the same owners have spread their wings to cover a new cuisine that, so far, has been under-represented in the Polish capital: Moroccan! Specializing in traditional recipes served in tagine clay pots inside a casual interior dolled up with jam jar lights and bright, light colors. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9 Tahina Small and lively, it’s a spot that brings together authentic Middle Eastern tastes with no quarter given: beef, for instance, is marinated for two days before being slow-cooked for 36-hours. Served in a
EAT! Listings featherlight lavash, there are those that would call this a kebab, but doing so would severely undersell the goodness in your hand. Demonstrating a fiendish attention to detail, Tahina is nothing if not characterized by its scrupulous specifics: look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza
polish Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek.waw.pl Bar Gdański A refit has seen the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death replaced by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core of this milk bar has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2018 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2018 “Tasting Menu”
While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication. Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by cooking that sees traditional Polish given a modern reinvention. But will they survive the recent departure of chef Damian Wajda – we’ll be watching closely. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/ bistropodsowami Brawo Bis Widely recognized from his work presenting the domestic version of Hell’s Kitchen, Michał Brys returns to the kitchen with a new venture, an informal-style restaurant with battleship colors offset by cabaret posters – a busy cultural program is in the works, and so too a menu that will seek to reprise the pre-war tastes of Warsaw. In the meantime, find a small but excellent array of dishes that make a big deal of the chef’s big passion: baking! Sample dishes so far include beef cheeks and chimichurri piled on a wheel of wild yeast cake. Simple but brilliant. (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz warsawinsider.pl
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EAT! Listings An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens. Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here 'deconstructed Polish'. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing,
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patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl
travel segment aired over Christmas. (E3) ul. Topiel 12
Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl
Lokalna Bistronomia The menu summons the spirit of Old Praga with appearances from stalwart heritage dishes such as sour-rye soup, Silesian dumplings, potato pie and chopped liver. Everything screams Made in Poland, right down to a drinks list that involves beer from the local Maryensztadt brewery. There’s atmosphere, as well, with a décor that feels lively and modern but includes some requisite old school neon and other enjoyable retro touches. ul. Nieporęcka 6, lokalnabistronomia.pl
Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl LAS This rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. As for food, then familiarize yourself with Anna Klajmon. Having made her bones at Grunt i Woda, her farm-tofork philosophy has followed her here. Cooking with an air of freedom, there’s a natural goodness to her menu that belies the modest pricing. Highly seasonal, on our visit that meant gorgeous oxtail pierogi with peanut butter and hazelnut sauce. Don’t mix the ‘local cocktails’, either. (F4) ul. Solec 44, fb.com/las.warszawa Le’pię In a restaurant that feels pure and feminine with its pristine tilework, gold cutlery and pastel pink finishes, the dumpling is given a remarkable, artisanal makeover. Handmade with love, find unlikely fillings such as pear and peach complimented by a pour of honey-ginger syrup, or black pudding squashed in with cranberry and crispy shallots. It’s all quite brilliant, in fact, brilliant enough to feature in a BBC
Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, it’s retained the intimacy of the original, the only difference being a design that feels less country cottage and a little more designed – big curtains, trimmed shrubbery and the liberal use of pre-war tiling all add to that impression. Food-wise, and this place remains a passionate advocate of the natural tastes of Poland; find shiny slithers of marinated herring posed on an arc of pumpkin and orange sauce, or mains like catfish in dill cream with smoked potatoes and porcini mushrooms. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Pyzy Flaki Gorące Head to decrepit Brzeska to unearth one
EAT! Listings of Praga’s favorite little secrets. Serving the best pyzy in town, find your little dumplings squashed into glass vessels then lathered with various toppings. Arguably the best budget meal in Warsaw, this is the essence of Poland served in a jar. (G1) ul. Brzeska 29/31, fb.com/ Pyzy-Flaki-Gorące Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl
Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect. As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl
Stolica Set in one of Old Town’s smaller, lesser-known squares, Stolica charms with its pre-war, slightly formal ambiance: pristine white tablecloths and spotless mirrors combine with classic Warsaw tunes to generate a storybook atmosphere straight from the pages of Tuwim and Gombrowicz. Food-wise, you’re looking at typically local dishes such as venison marinated in bison grass vodka. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3, restauracjastolica.com Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It
Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients. Enjoy, among many others, beef tartare with lovage mayonnaise, white truffle powder and marinated wild mushrooms. Or try our mouth watering Dumplings stuffed with veal and marinated squash in red lingonberry sauce. Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with squash purée and a French potato in a dill emulsion. To finish off delight in our home made pastries. Restaurant and Pastry 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/48 Warsaw Pastry and Cafe 48 608 046 406 Felińskiego str. 52 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com
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Traditional Polish Cuisine,
Ĺťurek
(traditional sour rye soup)
Golonka
(roast pork knuckle)
Placki Ziemniaczane
(potato pancake with gulash)
We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi Truskawkowe Strawberry dumplings
but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9
EAT! Listings sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500-year-old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl U Szwejka Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Served in an interior bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend – but you have to wonder why. (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, uszwejka.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the
installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl
favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu
Wuwu A vodka bar next to a vodka museum inside a former vodka factory… yep, at Wuwu you can’t escape the facts: vodka is everywhere. Wuwu’s reputation for peerless cocktails (based on you know what) and late hours (closing time: never) has grown exponentially over the months, but so too has its standing in the food chain thanks to a local-centric menu that reintroduces the public to the forgotten tastes of inter-war Warsaw: duck tongues with grapes and hazelnuts; a signature tartar lashed with homemade fermentations; not to mention blood sausage with pickled apples and a deep bread sauce. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar
Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 795 794 784, kafezn.pl
Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our
scandinavian Nabo Open-faced Smørrebrød sandwiches are a specialty with toppings including ribbons of herring with curry egg paste and a flurry of greens, but Nabo also extends to cover other aspects of the new Nordic style: the fish goulash is recommended. ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl
seafood
L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Enjoy it inside a classic interior that feels assuredly upscale. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Open just three days a week, the limited
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EAT! Listings hours have created a supply / demand situation which sees this basic-looking venue often packed out. The menu is revised on a weekly basis though never really goes beyond three starters and a couple of mains – but that’s all they need to captivate the public. In recent times, octopus goulash and smoked herring pierogi have played distinctive roles. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl
specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically
certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul. Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture. Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca
MODERN TAKE ON JAPANESE CUISINE
Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Kosher Shop Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Kram A supermarket worth your time. Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, daily deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów. Craft beers, bio wines, and softs from the likes
OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00-23:00 GROUND FLOOR WARSAW SPIRE, PLAC EUROPEJSKI 2 +48 668 925 959 WABU@WABU.PL | WWW.WABU.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WABUSUSHI
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EAT! Listings of Fentimans and Galvanina complete the quite extraordinary lineup. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook.com/kram.nativeingredients Kuchnie Świata The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast but mainly involves tinned and packaged products. Internet ordering now also available. Various locations, kuchnieswiata. com.pl Ostra Kuchnia A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. ostrakuchnia.pl
steak houses
Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling
of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The
desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Evil Steakhouse Already successfully established in Poznań and Szceczin, Evil look to break the recent capital city trend towards higher class steakhouses by introducing a more casual approach to the dining process. In this case, though, casual does not mean inferior: expect dinosaur portions of steak and ribs delivered straight from the grill inside a laidback, straightforward space that’s gone for a rough-industrial look. (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 3 Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl Żebra i Kości More than just steak, head to this smart newbie for Flintstone portions of ribs that thwack down on the table like heavy rounds of artillery. Satisfying all your primal desires, choices run from steamy duck broth to dry-aged tomahawk steaks that’ll take an hour to finish. The beef wellington is a must. High end and upmarket, expect big things to come – full review soon. (D5) ul. Poznańska 38, zebraikosci.pl
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EAT! Listings thai Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles. Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50 San Thai Positioned inside a glass-fronted oblong room, San Thai feels chic and smart with just the right amount of Asian masks and decoys to remind you that, yes, you will be eating Thai. Upmarket but never intimidating, the interiors are harmoniously balanced with a menu that whistles with authentic tastes: delicate pouches of steamed homemade dumplings; King Prawns in a snappy phanang curry; and the kind of Pad Thai that could be sent across Poland fulfilling ambassadorial duties for the nation it represents. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl Thai Thai A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through
the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl
ukrainian Kanapa Ukrainian food gets a fine dining makeover inside a plush villa that’s all sweeping staircases and theatrical chandeliers. Rich and raucous in some parts, refined and delicate in others, the food is a credit to the cunning of the chef. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa.restauracja Rest.Baczewskich A grander opening there has not been this year. Inspired by the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv, dishes include Galicianstyle herring and beef cooked in pork fat and served with white porridge and fried cabbage – as classic as they sound, presentation is pure 21st century and fitting of the luxurious surroundings of this one-time palace. Full review coming soon. (E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest
Eden This historic, modernist villa features a secret courtyard garden complete with a magnificent greenhouse at its center. Inside, meanwhile, step inside a super cool world that looks arty and avant garde. On the menu: organic wines, new wave coffees, and food that runs from sea buckthorn laksa and Korean-style curry to tacos served with avocado tempura. (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16, edenbistro.pl Falafelove Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that sets a new benchmark. Recommended is the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside. (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Falla Both pricing and location combine to keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Looking simple, maybe even spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, fb.com/falla.wawa
vegan
Krowarzywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few fail to surpass. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 881 777 894 ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl
Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl
Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home. First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. Full review next issue. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60 warsawinsider.pl
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EAT! Listings the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/ leonardo.verde.restaurant Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plantbased menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Uki Green A union of two of Warsaw’s favorite fads, Uki Green presents vegan ramen noodles inside a minimalistic interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. Brought to you by the owner of Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. It’s been open three minutes, but already Warsaw has found a new object of affection – visit. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ ukigreenramen Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond
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Veg Deli An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. (E3) ul. Radna 14 Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg
vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Toan Pho Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Tran Tran It looks promising enough, with dark
woods and images of paddy fields mixing with the reassuring clatter of an open kitchen, and so it proves with the arrival of the food: just to really grab you by the nuts and prod you into reaction, look no further than the beef served in a velvety ooze of mango. It’s a dish of simple clarity and vibrant freshness. Faithful in their presentation of Vietnam, Tran Tran’s a very solid addition to this maturing ethnic category. (E5) ul. Wilcza 20 Ukim Though not as high profile as Warsaw’s other gastro streets, Chłodna’s emergence has been no less spectacular. But fine dining and fancy wine bars aside, it’s actually the more standard venues that make the area feel so vibrant. Take Ukim, a cheerful joint decorated with steel Tolix chairs and blooming palms. Covering vast tracts of Asia, the menu, for the most part, feels enjoyable and authentic in equal measure: start with duck and mango spring rolls before moving onto mains such as crispy, sticky chicken in tamarind sauce. (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, ukim.pl Vietnamka Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/ VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl
EAT! Listings
DRINK!
PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA
A SHORT HISTORY OF WINE
From Poland’s clutch of special wine bars, few feel more intensely personal than Nowina. A passion project run by sisters Paulina and Stefania, the attention lavished on their baby is reflected through an eclectic interior that pits furnishings by names such as Dixon, Eames and Zięta against quirky details like retro lighting acquired at auction from the Europejski Hotel. But it is the wine memorabilia that makes this an unofficial museum of sorts. Bequeathed by their father – himself an esteemed wine importer – find over a thousand antique corkscrews displayed at Nowina. Plucked from thrift stores and markets from around the world, these century-old treasures are kept company by a rich array of other wine-related artefacts and treasures. More than an impressive declaration of this family’s love for wine, it’s a subliminal little something that makes Nowina feel special: something that suggests it’s more than just a business. Nowina ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl
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drink! Listings
Already acknowledged for its food, more and more people are traipsing into Zoni with something more liquid in mind…
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The Place
When the Insider first visited Zoni back when it opened last summer, the immediate reaction was something along the lines of OMFG. Ten visits later and it hasn’t lost any of that ability to leave a lasting impression. Housed inside a former vodka distillery built with a view of placating the Tsar’s troops stationed in the city, Zoni is magnificent. Split across two levels, the restaurant up the stairs has already been covered in detail by us before: featuring flooring made from recovered vodka barrels, steel partitions, and lovingly restored, industrial bits and pieces, it’s a stunning area that seduces all of who visit. Downstairs – the bar – is equally compelling. Long and narrow, on one side find a line of cast iron kilns once
used in the production of vodka, and on the other, an ever-stretching bar backing onto a wall of spirits. With the summer sun streaming through the windows, these bottles assume an almost sacral glow.
The Drinks
Having recruited some of the top bar maestros in the country, Zoni’s cocktail offer is not to be ignored. Inspired by the core regions of Poland, head barman Tomek has plotted a menu that sings with ingenuity. Of the new drinks debuting this summer, consider the Kurpini. An endorsement of the Kashubian district of Kurpie, the drink looks as rich and verdant as the forests of the north. Composed using Żubrowka infused with amber, and
PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA
A PLACE FULL OF SPIRIT(S)
Zoni Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today
mixed with Antonówka apple juice, the result is a herbal-tasting drink whose tart sourness is offset by a cunning drop of Pedro Ximenez sherry. But there’s more, as well, and as the Insider sips through Tomek’s latest creations we are treated to other loud outbursts of thrilling experimentation: comprising of Kaszubska Ratafia (a lightly spiced nalewka), cascade hops and pineapple, one drink is introduced as a meeting of tiki style with the Baltic Coast. Another, taking its cue from the cute painted cottages of the village of Zalipie is a floral affair that feels deliciously dainty. “I want to show the extent of our amazing culture,” says Tomek, “as well as showcasing the brilliant ingredients we have at our disposal. At the same time, I’m not looking to shock people by overthinking drinks – the taste and concept should always be clear and understandable.” Job done.
The Vodka
Naturally, given the location, it is vodka that is core to Zoni’s offer. Currently featuring 197 world vodkas, the ambition is to eventually expand that number to 300 whilst also furthering education about the drink. “For years,” says Patryk Biadacz, the bar manager of Zoni, “people viewed it as nothing more than an intoxicant. It’s our job to show the other side of vodka.” This they do by proving there is more to this drink than simply getting smashed. Revealing a spellbinding selection of international versions, highlights include Black Cow, a velvet smooth UK tipple produced using milk. Pleasingly mild and with subtle hints of hazelnut, Japan’s Okuhida is next on the Insider’s taste test. Utilizing rice in the production process, it’s as soft and sophisticated as it is unexpected. And then, three cheers ring out for Squadron 303, so named after the gallant Polish unit that came to be the highest scoring squad to fly in the Battle of Britain. With the evening already morphing into a blur, Dutch vodka comes next, with the hero ingredient this time being the humble tulip. Poland, of course, isn’t overlooked and of the many boutique choices are Kania, a new Kashubian brand founded by John
Borrell. A former war correspondent for Time magazine, Borrell has since carved a niche as one of the planet’s most revered vodka producers. “Ask most people and I’m sure 90% or more would say that vodka is tasteless,” says Patryk. “We’re here to show it’s not.” Demonstrating the nuances of this drink to devastating effect, it’s a place that feels a complete reinvention of what’s come before: engaging and educational but also blindingly brilliant, Zoni’s where the lifeblood of the nation begins to make sense.
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I want to show the extent of our amazing culture, as well as showcasing the brilliant ingredients we have at our disposal
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drink! Review
BACK FROM THE DEAD!
Against the odds, the Nocny Market returns for one last hurrah…
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But doom lay around the corner. Set on the disheveled, disused platforms of Warszawa Główna station, word that PKP were finally going ahead with returning this lost piece of real estate to its original function spelled the end for this seasonal sensation. Warsaw wept. So three cheers for missed deadlines and slack timekeeping! Faced with unexpected delays, PKP have granted the Nocny Market a stay of execution, meaning it’s already returned for a bonus season. Unique, special and intrinsically crazy, it’s a place of good vibes, big beats and beery, blurry nights. Get there pronto to join the spirit of now. Nocny Market ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna), fb.com/nocnymarket, Thurs 5 p.m. till midnight, Fri & Sat 5 p.m. till 1 a.m., Sun 4 p.m. till 11 p.m.
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Unique, special
and intrinsically crazy, it’s a place of good vibes, big beats and beery, blurry nights
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF NOCNY MARKET
F
or the best surprise this summer, see the reopening of Nocny Market: months after Warsaw bade a tearful farewell to this nocturnal institution, along came the news that, well, they hadn’t died yet. For newbies, then the story is thus: debuting in 2016, Nocny Market brought together dozens of street food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands. But more than just an ultra-edgy collection of ethnic cook spots, the Nocny Market became the place to get tattooed in front of baying strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some Indigocolored Palace of Culture socks, get the whiskers waxed or simply boogie on down to side-burned DJs rescued from the Lost Years of Hipster. To many, it represented the essence of Warsaw.
drink! Listings bars & pubs The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers. Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. Don’t think you’re leaving early. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The bombastic, gaudy surrounds of the Palace of Culture are brilliantly juxtaposed against a varied program of events that slot perfectly with the artsy spirit of the activists and intellectuals that comprise the regulars. It’s a party to remember. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl
Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl
Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a
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‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl
Central Bar The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, this ever-stretching bar gives the vigorous impression of being bang in the middle of somewhere that’s nailed the city’s imagination – certainly, the buzz from the beginning has shown no sign of fading. Bonus points for a rather good Pimm’s. Without fail, it remains Warsaw’s favorite meeting point. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)
Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19 Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49
Irish Pub Opened in 1991, it’s doubtful that the place has seen a cleaning lady since, but the general sense of murk and muck does add to the authenticity: it looks and feels like a pub should. Served by a stern, expressionless barman, the Guinness arrives in a mug that’s seen better days but is actually surprisingly decent. Nothing memorable, but not the calamity you may anticipate from a Polish-run Irish pub on the fringes of Old Town. (C2)
section, a growing reputation for long, merry nights is enough to earn Koko & Roy a second listing in the mag. Drink carefully composed cocktails and craft beers from the epic Stu Mostow brewery in an American-run resto-bar that’s starting to attract the full gamut of expat nationalities. An upmarket but quirky décor (Princess Leah on the wall, Antony Bourdain in the toilet) is matched by a maverick playlist, spontaneous atmosphere and open hours that have a habit of becoming seriously flexible when the weekend arrives. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43 Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl
Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com
Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47
ul. Miodowa 3, irishpubmiodowa.pl
Koko & Roy Already appearing in our Restaurant
Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur,
drink! Listings with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl.
obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of a Balkan band. Expect the unexpected.
Zbawiciela), planb.pl
Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B,
Przystań Nowa Fala Playing more than a bit part in the Wisła’s gentrification is Przystań, a sleek moored vessel with ample seating both inside and out. On the first level, order from a bar well-stocked with renegade beers, world wines and funky cocktails, before heading to the open upstairs deck to join a fun, cosmopolitan crowd convening under the stars. (E2) Bulwar Gen. George’a Smitha Pattona
Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl
Stixx A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices once the clock strikes five. Come summer, when the roof rolls back from the all-weather terrace, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of the after-work pint. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl
Targowy God knows what their secret potion is, but it’s probably something to do with a democratized offer that has something for all: craft beers, hardcore vodkas, decent cocktails and a staff that’s friendly, enthusiastic and always ready with a one-liner. The design is basic (plastic crates, blue lights), but they don’t need anything more to make it feel special. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1 W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way,
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(F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl
warszawapowisle.pl
Worek Kości H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars with criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 Wozownia Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house. The beer front is pretty dull, but the cocktails can be outstanding whilst the Prosecco is pretty much the cheapest glass of bubbles you’ll uncover in the city. A sensation over summer, it’s one of the top pre-club spots in the center. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16, fb.com/WozowniaBar
cafés Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl
Ceramiczna Chanelling the spirit of the PRL era, Ceramiczna is, undisputedly, the best reason you’ll find for visiting Tarchomin. In a nod to the local ceramics factory, find a bar composed of porcelain fragments, vintage LOT flight posters and retro armchairs competing with strategic pot plants and modern day ceramics from the acclaimed Fenek studio. ul. Ceramiczna 20 Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5 ul. Wilcza 42, fb. com/coffeedeskwilcza
Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60
Czytelnia Definitely distant, but there are those that travel the city to visit – if you take coffee seriously, then you will as well. Home to the city’s best flat white (fact!), this husband and wife operation is warm in ambiance and appearance, and the drive for quality reflected by their habitual acquisition of the latest equipment. Al. Zjednoczenia 46
Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stop-off for people looking to do
drink! Listings disarmingly friendly staff and locals generate one of the best café scenes for miles whilst the collection of toy figures (Bart Simpson, DC action heroes and a gun-toting Pacino) feels brilliantly (C1) ul. Andersa 6 off-beat.
THE RIVERFRONT
Come summer and it’s all about the Wisła. The moment the mercury climbs, a string of bars open on the left bank to create an amorphous blur of drunken din. In previous years, the whole west bank has become an undulating wall of beats and shrieks, with all life gathering to party till dawn. New noise and social regulations stand to change that dampen the hedonism this year, but nonetheless, this still promises to be the place to be. Of your copious choices, seek out Barka Wynurzenie, a craft beer barge with street food courtesy of Kukpit, BarKa, with its sail white canopies and vampy crowd, and the slick Przystań Nowa Fala. On land, Zachodni Brzeg and Winsky cater to a high-end, smartcasual crowd with upmarket wines and flouncy cocktails galore. But with the Wisła’s future still largely undecided at press time, your best bet is to simply explore for yourself. something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb. com/dobrocafe
for.rest Originating as a store selling cool ceramics and lavish green succulents, the number of dawdling customers meant that adding coffee to the offer was a natural step. Wouldn’t you know it, people loved it even more. Sourcing a diverse range of coffee from the locally-based Java roasters, this beautiful indoor jungle is a true one-off. ul. Nabielaka 8/10 Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee
Francuska 30 The terrace is the place to be, sat shaded from the sun by dozens of brollies that dangle overhead. The coffee, brewed using Chemex, Aeropress and Drip methods, is a big deal, and complimented by French crepes served from a combi van parked outside. Inside, it’s cool, minimal and reassuringly artistic. (H4) ul. Francuska 30
Hałas Vinyl + Coffee At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a record store, it’s the kind of place where hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. In summer, the outdoor bench is the sweet spot everyone wants to occupy. ul. Jagiellońska 30
FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to the hippest barber shop in town (tatts, beards and crazy whiskers!), the presence of this pocket-sized café gives Muranów a fresh, bold swagger. Coffee aside (the cold brew rocks), the
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Lapidarium It’s high time that the Old Town Square had a café worth visiting, but would have thought that it would be a museum providing such? Run under the aegis of
the Museum of Warsaw, visitors choose from rustic meals prepped locally by Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie, regional beers, Polish wine from Mierzęcin Palace and tea courtesy of Harney & Sons. Enjoy these in minimalistic vaulted interiors or in a soothingly calm courtyard garden stacked with gargoyles and other historic elements. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 40, lapidariumcafe.com
Kawiarnia Kawałek This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. (B4) ul. Łucka 18 Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retrostyled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18
Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4) ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl
Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl
Drink! Listings Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul.
have pared the design down replacing the old junk with a cool, caramel-colored look high on wood, plants and discreet retro accents. Craft beer, eco-friendly bites, clever cocktails and quality coffee contribute to their popularity, as does a busy events program that’s big on comedy and open mic nights. (C2) ul. Bielańska 1
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Relax Na Wilczej An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts. (D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/RelaxNaWilczej
Resort Originally known for their OTT recycling motif (shopping trolleys re-purposed as seats, street signs as tables...), Resort
Robusta With the generic Nero on one side, and the super cool Fat White on the other, Robusta occupies a middle ground in more ways than one. Whether it can compete with either is to be seen, but for now there’s no doubt that it’s mere existence is further proof of Andersa’s rising stock. To like: ample spaces, a chilled out playlist, an urbane design and wifi that’s as fast as an arrow. Hopes are high this could yet become a lynchpin of the area. (C1) ul. Andersa 21A
Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th
century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul. Nowomiejska 10
Stor A giant presence on the coffee map of Warsaw, Stor is the ultimate feelgood café: a place of slanting shadows and streaming sunlight, the irresistible ambience is matched only by peerless coffee prepared by expert baristas. ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe
U Krawca Blue-collar Grochów isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but this café has done much to swing the area’s rep into credit. Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade
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drink! Listings cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados. ul. Siennicka 3
ally as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com
clubs Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com
Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58 No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego
Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradu-
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Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl
Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-toceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. The good life doesn’t get any better. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6 Smolna 38 Helping to fan the ‘sense of secret’, the no-cellphone policy (you cover the camera with a sticker) ensures a zero amount of berks recording the shenanigans that await. Allow the names they’ve pulled do the talking – past events include sets by Pete Tong, Laurent Garnier and Hercules & Love Affair. If those names mean nothing then it’s not your place. (E4) ul. Smolna 38 Spatif Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control. (E5) al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl
The View Because who doesn’t love partying under palms on the rooftop deck of a 32-floor
skyscraper? The glam and the gorgeous certainly do, and The View continues to feel as spectacular now as it did when it opened. A place of bubbles and beauties, it’s the definition of five-star, NYC-style clubbing. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl
cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts! Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. The close quarters of the venue and playful nature of the guests make accidental conversation something of an occurrence. It’s a social place – be sociable! (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ BackRoomWarsaw
Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches its zenith each summer thanks to a leafy back garden that stands shaded by this modernist building: it’s worth visiting just to swan down the spiral stairs with a glass of something bubbly. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/bialazjedziwypij
Ceviche Bar Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing. The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’
Drink! Listings card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes.
Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. ul. Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl
(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl
Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike. Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan
El Koktel The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4) ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl
Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar that’s famed around the country for the creativ-
ity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14
La Sirena Though primarily known as the best Mexican restaurant in the country, the cocktails are of such a standard that it’s become impossible to ignore La Sirena’s credentials as an exceptional bar as well. Fixed using a range of premium tequilas, the innovative tastes feel all the better for the intriguing surrounds: walls of corrugated iron and peeling plaster are coordinated with crossed machetes, shrill neon and decorative tiles. The final effect brings to mind a deadly cool recreation of a drug baron’s jailhouse cell. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Long Bar Decked out with smooth marble, natural
A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.
Być Może
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drink! Listings oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no. Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski), raffles. com/warsaw
Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. And don’t forget to head up the stairs to their cool little sister, Gram (see Bars). (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49
Podwale Bar & Books T Occupying the kind of charismatic R C P T M you’d read about in Dickens, gatehouse C W position yourself in front of the upstairs ≈ W C for a celebratory cigar and a fireplace ≈ C C glass of≈something tall and lovely: the T cocktails are in a class of their own and ≈ P E specifically customized for the season. ≈ L S silent Bond films, regular Spooling, burlesque shows and random decorative P B B monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj HE MOST
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Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.
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Reginabar Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic V O L a P i n Y cocktail list that reflects the crazy things www.barandbooks.pl happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. (E6) ul. n
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The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11
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Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl
craftbeermuranow
Nowogrodzka 4
Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary.
Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town. Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal.
(E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl
Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the
Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw
20, barandbooks.pl
Czeska Baszta Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. (E4) Tower 22A, Most
Craft Beer Muranów Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their recruitment of Marcin Chmielarz, one of the best-known ‘beer managers’ in Poland. But even before him, this basic-looking joint was already making ripples for its consistency: a dodgy pint is totally unheard of. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/
craft beer
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side passage), czesc.waw.pl
Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. (D5) ul.
(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl
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the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the
Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of
(D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl
Drink! Listings city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl
Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25 Kufle i Kapsle Powiśle Doing it in a way that feels shabby, gritty but yet totally cool, this is a bar that riffs on themes of industrial and retro to maximum effect. Ground floor: a small bar area with a secret strip of seating snaking back behind; upstairs, the kind of retro furnishings last seen when Brezhnev was wearing shorts. On tap, find a fluctuating choice of 12 crazy beers sourced from the kind of breweries that make Poland seem progressive. When you’re done, prove your allegiance to KiK by visiting their third venue in Żoliborz. (E3) ul. Solec 46A Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11
Mikkeller Bar Warsaw A complete geek-gasm of ultra-niche, rare foreign finds, the onus on Scandinavian beers guarantees steep prices that have been known to reach (and even exceed) the zł. 50 mark. Ouch. In return, you’re getting blinding beers that break brewing boundaries – past examples include yuzu Berliner Weisse, triple barrel-aged
imperial beetroot stout and watermelon & pomegranate IPA. Not for cheapskates, if nothing else the presence of a Mikkeller pub makes Warsaw feel a well-rounded, 21st century city. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw
Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl
Same Krafty Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Sustenance comes by way of big wheels of pizza that are surprisingly good. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10
for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl
live music Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet warsawinsider.pl
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drink! Listings and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl
Klub Pogłos Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by the irrepressible Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/ klubpoglos
Niebo Noted for the diversity of its events program, Niebo does it all: from comedy nights to vintage markets via performances from cult acts such as Neneh Cherry and Black Sun Empire. The gritty look complements the artsy, off-radar airs perfectly. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 21, fb.com/niebo
vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl
WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland. Under illuminated tubes of light, find an upmarket, sharply turned-out crowd enjoying a place that elevates the all night concept by an extra level or two. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1
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wine bars Ale Wino! Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl
Bubbles Behold, the city’s most prodigious choice of champagne! Though price points can climb high, more affordable options are prevalent. Excellent cocktails, wonderful slow food choices and a charmingly cluttered interior add to the appeal. In summer, the canopied terrace is ideal for pre-theater drinks or date night with the partner. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles. com.pl
Mielżyński Wine Bar Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl
Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl
Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Dyletanci The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice). (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44,dyletanci.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Go on, count them: hanging tantalizingly over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a testament to Kieliszki’s promise to serve all the wines they have (and there’s a motherlode to pick from) by the glass. Enjoy them on a cobbled street that’s been magnificently restored to its prewar prime. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl
Rusiko Wine Bar The perfect foil for the Rusiko restaurant next door, this high-ceilinged, sapphirecolored haunt showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior decked out with elaborate rugs horded by the owner. Having first enjoyed the food opposite, finish the night in this genial, cozy bar. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko
Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl
Winsky There’s over 300 labels in all, of which 24 are served from Enomatic wine dispensers. Beyond the novelty factor, applause goes to an intelligent and flexible choice that features the big boys as well as a number of niche tipples you’ll rarely find in Poland. Enjoy them in a beautiful velvety interior facing the inky, black waters of the Wisła. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10
PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA
do!
MADE IN JAPAN
Forged from a love of all things Japanese, Bakaliko dubs itself as concept store in which rules don’t apply. Definitely, you get a sense of that through their obscure and indiscriminate assembly of trinkets and treasures: here, browsing becomes a blissful journey to far-off lands. Silky garments and kimonos; fragrant candles; scented sticks; twinkling amulets; bold artwork; porcelain figures; and fun, quirky badges all await, but so too do ceramics – and it is them, arguably, that constitute the main reason to visit. Startling in their beauty, these stunning objects are a must if you’re looking differentiate your home from others. Bakaliko ul. Promenada 5/7, bakaliko.pl warsawinsider.pl
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For details, see: warszawa. thecolorrun.pl
ARTS European Design Festival
EDITOR’S PICK Home Brew Festival 15 June @ EXPO XXI Warszawa Tickets zł. 79 @ ebilet.pl
Following the success of last year’s prototype event, this summer sees in excess of 70 home breweries gathering to present over 200 never-been-tried-before beers alongside a line-up food trucks, panel discussions and live brewing demonstrations. So say the organizers: “Many of the hobbyists dream of fame and recognition through their home creations – at this festival we make those dreams come true!”
FESTIVAL Orange Music Festival
Ongoing till 1 June @ Służewiec Race Track One of Poland’s biggest music fests will feature star turns from Miley Cyrus, Rita Ora, Solange, The Raconteurs, Miles Kane and Troy Sivan. For details, see: orangewarsawfestival.pl
SKATING Night Skating
1, 13 & 27 June Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 18km route. Starting at 21:00,
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usually by the Copernicus Monument on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the mass skate usually concludes at round about 23:00. For details see: nightskating. waw.pl
SPORT The Color Run
1 June @ National Stadium, ul. Poniatowskiego 1 Dubbed ‘the happiest 5k in the world’, the Color Run is a pioneering ‘paint race’ loosely inspired by Disney’s World of Color and the Hindu Festival of Colors. Starting at the National Stadium, the untimed run sees partici-
6-9 June @ various locations Taking place annually in different European cities, this year the spotlight will fall on Warsaw with free events including a screening of Helvetica, the Postreet poster exhibition and a retrospective of the works of Karol Śliwka. These will be complimented by a series of ticketed events, including a gala. For details, see: elementtalks. com/edfestival
PARADE Equality Parade
8 June, 15:00 @ Metro Świętokrzyska Conservative attitudes, and past attempts to ban the parade altogether, have done little to damage the momentum of the annual equality parade, though in the current political climate this event seems more relevant than ever. Full of color and fanfare (and banging club sounds) this year’s route begins by Metro Świętokrzyska whilst Jasna 1 has been earmarked for the afterparty. For details, see: paradarownosci.eu
CULTURE Big Book Festival
21-23 June @ various locations Back for a seventh time, the Big Book Festival will welcome a host of bestselling authors from various countries to discuss their work. Included in that number will be Arnon Grunberg, Catherine Blackledge, Sarah Moss and Tom Phillips. All events will be held in English. For details, see: bigbookfestival.pl
CONCERT Wianki
23 June @ Multimedia Fountain Park, Skwer Dywizji 1 Expect tens of thousands of people – and probably more – to head down to the fountains to celebrate the ancient festival of Wianki. Aiding them will be free concerts from domestic stars such as Bajm, Dżem and W&W. Note: while unconfirmed at press time, rumors are gathering pace that dubstep legend Skrillex will perform the night before. For details, see: wawawianki.pl
FILM Filmowa Stolica
From 25 June @ Pole Mokotowskie A series of open air film screenings in scenic locations across the capital: among them Royal Wilanów, the Copernicus Science Center, Pole Mokotowskie and… Metro Słodowiec. The repertoire is as diverse as the locations, with this year’s inaugural event held in Pole Mokotowskie. For more info, check: filmowastolica.pl
PHOTOGRAPH FACEBOOK
pants passing through various ‘music and color zones’ in which entrants can expect to be pelted by non-toxic powders in a myriad of dazzling colors. First held in Warsaw in 2015, the event has become a sparkly tonic to the city’s more somber races.
DO! Museums
THE BIG FOUR FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum MUSEUM OF WARSAW Thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl
POLIN Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl WARSAW RISING MUSEUM Regarded as one of the country’s most important cultural institutions, the Rising Museum re-tells the story of the 1944 insurgency that came to define the city in minute detail. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. Don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl
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M U S E U M O F P R AGA
MUSEUMS Car Museum Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark. From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russianmade Volgas, John Paul II’s Pope Mobile, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104. The random layout, oily smells, cobwebbed corners and randomly assembled junk add to the sense of treading somewhere odd. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl
Dollhouse Museum Over 120 dolls houses through the ages have been amassed in this remarkably enchanting collection, the highlight arguably being a house built by a Polish RAF pilot that took six years to restore. Pl. Defilad 1, muzeumdomkow.pl
Dulag 121 Though much is now known about the Warsaw Uprising, the fate of the civilians driven from their homes remains rather more murky. Dulag 121,
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a former prison and transit camp in Pruszków, redresses the balance by documenting this grim exodus in detail. On the NoM night tours of the grounds will be conducted by hisorians. ul. 3 Maja 8A (Pruszków), dulag121.pl
Earth Museum Staring at bits of rock and fossils isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, but a visit here isn’t necessarily a snore. The building itself is magnificent, and considered “one of the best achievements of contemporary Polish architecture as far as decorative stone is concerned.” The real curiosity, however, is the patch of blood left by an unknown soldier during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. The stain has survived to this day. Al. Na Skarpie 20/26, mz.pan.pl
Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl
M U S E U M O F WA R S AW
The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl
Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl
Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl
Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a sig-
nificant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl
Miniature Park Magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures make this a stand-out little secret. Here, landmarks such as Saski Palace, the ‘summer theater’ and Żelazna Brama have been lovingly brought back from the dead in astonishing fashion. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66, miniaturymazowieckie.com
Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, others to fashion and style – the quirky collection is high on personal items such as groovy cosmetics, sports equipment and cast-off kitchen utensils. The highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul. Piękna 28/34, adventurewarsaw.com
DO! Museums Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl
engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Outside is where the real anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl
Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl
Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26
EXPERIENCES Copernicus Science Centre Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik. org.pl
Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl
The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamekkrolewski.pl
Train Museum Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam
top secret chemical research unit, it’s from here Poland’s medical operation would have been conducted in the event of the red button being pressed. Frozen in time, it’s super creepy. ul. Kozielska 4, obiektalfa.pl
Pinball Station An unruly riot of beeps and flashes and jolly jingles, Pinball Station presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age. Can you touch them? Yes, yes and yes! For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars. ul. Kolejowa 8A, pinballstation.pl
GALLERIES & EXHIBITION S PAC E S Caricature Museum The Guardian called it “one of the best museums you’ve probably never heard of”, a backhanded compliment that still sits proudly on the museum’s home page. Having recently fought off an attempt to merge it into the Museum of Warsaw, the museum still stands on its own feet fulfilling its mission to bring mirth and a bit of mayhem to Warsaw’s cultural scene. ul. Kozia 11, muzeumkarykatury.pl
Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl
CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl
Obiekt Alfa If you think we live in scary times then a visit to this Cold War nuclear bunker is a timely reminder that it could all be worse. Built to house a
Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such
as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl Gallery of Steel Figures Inspired by ‘dreams and memories’, this exhbition sees scrap metal recycled to form characters from film and science fiction, showbiz and music. Think of it as Mad Max meets Madame Tussauds. Produced on a scale of 1:1, the craftsmanship and attention to detail is staggering. It’s fun, futuristic and freaky! Pl. Defilad 1, galleryofsteelfigures.com
National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Opened at the end of 2017, the Gallery of Polish Design offers up a bamboozling array of objects to give a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl
The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. The emphasis is firmly on the Cold War era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon – beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org
Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl
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Summer School
DO! Listings
Join us!
Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School invites all children for a special summer program from July 8th to August 9th English speaking environment Montessori curriculum Field trips Special vistors Art Cooking Gardening Animals Nature and much, much more!
preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through ageappropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702 85 00.
The British Primary School of Wilanów The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.
Accepting applications for children aged 2-5 (Casa program) and 6-12 (Elementary program) Location: Casa dei Bambini, Badowska 19 (behind Sielecka 52) To join summer school program please contact: +48 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl www.wmf.edu.pl
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The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl
The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,
Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl
Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl
International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl
The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843
DO! Listings 9370, tep.edu.pl
Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl
Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu
Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl
Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located
in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl
Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl
The pursuit
of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.
www.thebritishschool.pl
Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour warsawinsider.pl
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DO! Listings schools Akademeia High School Akademeia High School is an international high school in Warsaw, offering the chance to study for A Levels and iGCSEs. The school focuses on developing both students’ academic abilities and their artistic, athletic and leadership potential. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl
American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul.
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Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org
The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a worldclass education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow. org to organise a visit.
The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the
highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl
Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help
DO! Listings students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl
Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps
from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul. Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl
The English Primary The English Primary is designed
specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep. edu.pl
Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org
monnet international school
PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN
IB World School no 001483
on's ngt LUB i d Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N
Education for a better world
Belwederska 6a, Warsaw
www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl
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DO! Listings The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl
International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533
321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl
Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13,
60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com Edu & More Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, polishonlinenow.com
tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl
Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908,
Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul.
warsawmontessori.edu.pl
Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl
Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli
Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul.
Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl
Hello
Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl
education adult learning Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free
Together School Learn Polish w i t h t h e in b eboth s t t eKraków a c h e r s and With locations in the biggest school Warsaw, Together have seven years of i n Wa r s a w. experience teaching Polish and English for everyday life, business and general communication. Mariensztat 8
Hello Learn Polish with the best teachers in the biggest school i n Wa r s a w.
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B R O U G H T T O Y O U BY
British International School To Host MIT Steam Festival
Nord Anglia Education Schools from across Europe and the Middle East will take part in a dynamic program aimed at young innovators as part of the MIT Steam Festival in Warsaw!
T
he British School Warsaw (TBS) will host the first Europe and Middle East regional Nord Anglia MIT Steam Festival in collaboration with MIT from June 10th to June 14th with the theme being the “Pioneers of Tomorrow”. The festival will expose Nord Anglia Education (NAE) students to the MIT way of thinking, doing and being, with a vision to ‘Prepare the Pioneers of Tomorrow’ and invent the future. The festival will host over 200 students from 12 schools from around the Middle East and Europe. Over the five days, students can attend STEAM-related workshops run by The British School Warsaw teachers and visiting expert speakers. STEAM courses are designed to encourage the design thinking process, promote collaboration and nurture creativity in learners. These workshops will expose students to
a range of STEAM technologies – those in the fields of science, technology, engineering, art and mathematics – and creative approaches to problem-solving. Following the workshops, there will be a team project in which students complete a set challenge and task in just one day. There will then be a student showcase and closing ceremony on the final day. To launch the inaugural Europe and Middle East regional Nord Anglia MIT STEAM festival, The British School Warsaw have pioneered a new talk platform aimed at exposing the student body to real-world innovators and entrepreneurs, while also kick-starting the festival with a touch of inspiration. The theme of the talks will take the ‘Superheroes’ theme of this year’s NAE MIT challenges to set the scene for this first regional festival in Poland, with a particular focus on ‘Polish Superheroes’. What better place to kickstart the STEAM festival than in Warsaw, an exciting innovation hub and melting pot for innovators across many industries. “This festival promises to be an excellent opportunity for many of our students to share their passion for Science and Technology alongside students from our sister schools across Europe and the Middle East,” says Alun Yorath, Principal at The British School Warsaw. “We are very lucky to be provided with support and direction from MIT, the pre-eminent science and technology university, and are fortunate and indebted to be supported by so many local and regional partners in the technology field.” Program highlights include the Pioneers of Tomorrow Festival where students will hear from Polish innovators and entrepreneurs in the STEAM space, including Dr Richard Fineman from MIT. Students will have the opportunity to participate in interactive workshops, working in partnership with MIT and NAE teachers. There will be visits to Warsaw’s Copernicus Science Centre and historic Old Town, and the chance to make new friends with students from other NAE schools in Europe and the Middle East. By tackling real-world challenges across the subjects of science, technology, engineering, art and mathematics (STEAM), the aim is for students to develop transferable skills such as collaboration, creativity and communication. They are encouraged to experiment rather than wait for instructions, and to discover for themselves that with collaboration and critical thinking, they can solve even the trickiest problems, both in school and in the real world. For more information, please visit: www.thebritishschool.pl warsawinsider.pl
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DO! Listings health & beauty gyms Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska 10 Gravitan Gravitan features state-of-the-art equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians. Pl.
the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl PARDON MY FRENCH
manicure pedicure
Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl
spas & salons
spa.clochee.com/spa
Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia PinchinatWitucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. Creamy SPA offers original Haitian facial massage based on Creamy’s vegan cosmetics. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl
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Ouch! Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at
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moliera2.com
sport
Szwedzki 3 & ul. Malborska 39, gravitan.pl
Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13,
Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2,
Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. Al. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl
fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61 Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com
Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com
Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com
home & design 8288 The graphic art of co-owner Robert Kuta; hard-to-find scents by Andrea Maack; stationary by Midori; and beautiful jewelry pieces by the likes of All Blues and Otiumberg await inside this thrilling, fresh-minded concept store. Blending the functions of a gallery and shop, the
DO! Listings aesthetic value of 8288 is impossible to fault. ul. Mysia 3, 8288conceptstore.com August Design Studio Inspired by ‘the joy of simplicity’, discover a world of handmade, artsy ceramics and other ‘design objects’ that are as functional as they are beautiful. Your shelves won’t ever feel the same! ul. Brzozowa 6/8A (enter from ul. Bugaj), augustdesignstudio.pl
Collage The idea is simple: to present all a woman needs under one roof. Specializing in beauty products and design pieces, Collage’s portfolio ranges from jewelry and fashion to succulents and tableware. Always stylish, the underlying quality of the products isn’t for dispute. ul. Rozbrat 28/30 DecoDialogue Working with both large manufacturers and smaller European design studios, DecoDialogue present a carefully sourced collection of furniture, textiles glassware and ceramics inside a beautifully outfitted space brimming with both statement pieces and more discreet little luxuries by the likes of Louis Poulsen, Lumio, Łyko, Klippan and Ton. ul. Kopernika 8/18, decodialogue.pl
Love Poland Design Proudly stocking only domestically produced objects, head to Love Poland Design to stock up on wacky Palace of Culture socks, amusing mugs, illustrative poster art and cotton bags adorned with mermaids, goats and other city emblems.
Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl
Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamo-
Makutra To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. ul. Oleandrów 5,
Galeria Północna Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21 and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17,
makutra.com
Nap Bedtime accessories are the bread and butter here, but there’s also several bits for the kitchen as well: coffee makers by Tom Dixon, posh pans from Baumalu, arty saltshakers from Menu and tableware from Muubs. ul. Mysia 3
Green Bells Equally inspired by Asia as the Victorian terrariums of botanist Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw-Ward, Green Bells present miniature eco-worlds kept perfectly preserved inside ornamental glass: an ideal statement piece for house and home, your very own ‘forest in a jar’ will set you back from zł. 120 upwards. ul.
71, plantarium.pl
lata60-te.pl
Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al.
kotow.com.pl
Plantarium Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your home. Impressive in scope and outlook, your apartment won’t ever feel the same. ul. Mokotowska
Lata 60-te Specializing in expertly refreshed furniture from the PRL era, it’s become a favorite of design mavens looking to trick out their home with a pre-loved retro statement piece. ul. 11 Listopada 54,
malls & department stores
ul. Chmielna 30, lovepolanddesign.pl
Future Antiques These stylish, mid-century pieces have been refreshed using artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. Though much of the furniture is sourced from France, Italy and the Czech Republic, it’s the Danish bits and pieces that really stand out. ul. Poznańska 3/14
Grzybowska 16/22
Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl
Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com Rzeczownik Specializing in stationery, cards, notepads, and calendars, find Rifle Paper Co., Red Cap Cards, UStudio and 1973 among the brands available at this intriguing store. Ranging from the super cute to the ultra-cool, browse-worthy items include graphic prints, ceramics, books and quirky little things for house and home. ul. Hoża St 59/1, rzeczownik.com
galeriapolnocna.pl
Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl
Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton and Stella McCartney, . Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl
Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl warsawinsider.pl
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DO! Listings 5-Star Hotels Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl
Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl
H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@ h15ab.com, h15ab.com
8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com
pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl
Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw
Mecure Warszawa Centrum
ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com
ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com
Marriott
Mercure Grand Warszawa
Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com
ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com
Regent Warsaw Hotel
Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)
ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com
Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl
Hilton Warsaw
Raffles Europejski Warsaw
ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 255 9590, raffles.com/ warsaw
Hotel Warszawa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9, tel. 22 470 03 00, warszawa.hotel. com.pl
Westin
Indigo
4-Star Hotels
ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com
Radisson Blu Sobieski
Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl
Novotel Warszawa (Airport)
ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl
Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com
ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328
ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com
ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000
relocation companies Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, euromove.pl
AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com
Polonia Palace Hotel
CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group
Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com
ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com
3-Star Hotels Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, castleinn.pl
Castle Inn
Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al.
Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport
Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com
Hampton by Hilton InterContinental
ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, hiexpress.com
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100 Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2019
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DO! Guide
THE ESSENTIALS...
Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.
(czarprl.pl). A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum could yet become one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl). Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in interesting photo exhibits that explore Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies to cover differing chapters of the city’s history, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.
MODERN WARSAW CHOPIN CONCERT I N Ł A Z I E N K I PA R K
THE OLD…
The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of the ‘phoenix city’ that ‘survived its own death’. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are as unmissable as the former royal chambers. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the new Vodka Museum on the right side of town.
WWII
Memories of WWII still cast a heavy shadow over the town. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage
CZAR PRL MUSEUM
Centre’ documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum.
JEWISH WARSAW
Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought-provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jewish population.
COMMUNISM
A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are intriguing whilst the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Explore the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the new location of the Czar PRL Museum
Wonder amid rioting children and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium geeks and football fans alike.
ART
Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – don’t miss the brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. And keep your eyes peeled outside: some of the city’s best art is found on its walls – the Praga district is especially celebrated for their large format wall murals.
PEOPLE
The watchful shadow of Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope. If you’ve got time (and even if you haven’t), a day trip to his birthplace in Żelazowa Wola is a rewarding experience. Don’t miss the outdoor Chopin concerts that take place each Sunday afternoon in stately Łazienki Park. Onto other local greats, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a good job of remembering the world’s most famous female scientist. warsawinsider.pl
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