Warsaw Insider April 2023 #320

EUROPEAN BEST DESTINATION 2023

CITYSCAPE

Discovering The Secrets Of The Eastern Centre...

– see p. 16

APRIL 2023

#320 Features:

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

Unsolved Mystery: lost, found and lost againthe Berling statue. – p. 18

80th Anniversary: remembering the Jewish Ghetto Uprising. – p. 26

Reviews:

L'emotion – p. 43

Błysk– p. 45

Eating History: Ahaan – p. 46

Focca – p. 48

Lychees – p. 50

The Buzz – p. 52

DISCOVER

Living A Walkable Urban Lifestyle – p. 63

OCCURRING JUST AFTER we sent our previous issue to print, Joe Biden’s visit to Warsaw underlined the Polish capital’s growing presence on the world stage. Its increased prominence, though, has been more than just political. Both economically and socially, the city’s relevance to the rest of Europe has long been soaring, and in the case of the latter that was affirmed when the city was voted the continent’s ‘best destination’ for 2023. Not bad going for a city that had, at the start of the millennium, been viewed by outsiders as something of a shabby, reject city – as wild and brilliant as that era was, anyone being sent here for work couldn’t help but think they’d drawn the short straw.

As beautified as Warsaw has become – or homogenized some might say – it’s her energy that is the city’s most valued quality. And with that in mind, I hope that this issue we’ve channelled a little of that through our inside look at the local alt. jazz scene, and our exploration of the city’s “centre-east”: a sub-district whose long, grey shadows are split by the vibrancy of its stories and spirit. Finally, we’ve also used this issue to reflect upon one of the biggest events of Warsaw’s history – the Ghetto Uprising, a heroic rebellion whose 80th anniversary falls this April. As ever, I hope you enjoy the issue –and see you next month…

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl

Art Director

Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

Marketing Advisor Julia Zajczyk jzajczyk@valkea.com

In Brief

Worlds Away

Originally painted towards the end of last summer, 912 was executed by Marcin Czaja of the Klawy Projekt studio. Depicting a densely built-up island of tenements floating away on seven balloons, the striking work was directly based upon an acrylic painting created by the artist Roch Urbaniak in 2017.

Filled with intricate details it shows, among other things, a propellor-powered steel island being lifted into the grimy grey skies by a set of metal balloons. Packed tightly together, tall and narrow apartment blocks soar atop of each other whilst man-made platforms crowned with trees jut out into the air. Seemingly circling this dark and strange world, two vintage aeroplanes buzz closely to the island.

Revealing his inspirations on Facebook, Urbaniak wrote: “I had an exhibition in Kraków where pop culture influences were the main theme – the exhibition catalogue opened with words from the prologue of the film Conan, and the images – in an unobtrusive way – referred to my favourite films, games and comics. I’m a huge fan of the video game BioShock Infinite, which is set in 1912 in the flying steampunk city of Columbia, and my painting was simply my own interpretation of that world. The mural is a copy of my painting 1912 that was displayed at that exhibition.”

Clasped to the side of a swanky new apartment building on Żelazna 24, the XXL artwork has slotted in magnificently alongside its neighbours. In many ways a microcosm of Warsaw, the clashes and contrasts of the capital are at their richest on this shadowy stretch of street.

CITY

Green Days

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT PRESS MATERIAL (2), COURTESY OF PARADOX CAFE, SHUTTERSTOCK

A stunning new linear park has been announced for Ursynów…

Stretching out for nearly two-kilometres, it’s been confirmed that a stunning linear park will be created to snake down the southern district of Ursynów. Covering a total footprint of approximately ten hectares, the park will see 1,000 trees planted and over 100,000 shrubs, vines and perennials.

Of its other features, a promenade running its entire length will be built, along with walkways, wooden terraces, recreational areas and a rain garden. However, whilst these plans have long been known, it was only in mid-March that additional funding was secured to guarantee that the project would be executed in its entirety.

Whereas PLN 11 million had initially been put aside for its construction, that left a shortfall of PLN 33 million. Only after a vote by city councillors were the extra finances granted. “When we first began talking about this project in 2016, I wasn’t 100% sure that we would ever reach this stage,” said the Mayor of Ursynów, Robert Kempa. Now, much to the excitement of both local activists and residents, the investment appears to have finally been given the green light.

With a tender process set to be announced shortly, the winning bidder will be looking to complete the park by the end of 2025. First designed two-years ago by the Warsaw-based studio Palmett, the ecological corridor will be divided into six parts with work on the first stage – ul. Stryjeński to al. KEN – beginning this year.

POLITICS

Mordor In Mind

Whilst it was Joe Biden’s February visit to Warsaw that caught the world’s attention, a Warsaw café also found itself thrust into the spotlight after hosting a meeting between the Polish Prime Minister, Mateusz Morawiecki, and his Italian counterpart, Giorgia Meloni. Meeting in Paradox Café, a self-confessed ‘sci-fi and fantasy asylum’, the two leaders convened for coffee in the popular Muranów spot. Known for its collection of board games, but also boasting Warsaw’s largest collection of Polish- and foreign-language fantasy books – over 3,000 volumes – the café say that, “regardless of age, profession and social position, our guests have one thing in common: a love for the fantastic.” However, it was not this that attracted the PMs, but rather the giant wall mural of Mordor. Providing the perfect backdrop to discuss Putin’s evil empire, Morawiecki later tweeted a summary of his meeting: “It turns out we’re both Tolkien fans. We believe that together we will defeat Mordor....”

Bear With Us

Praga’s iconic bear run has been earmarked to possibly serve as a café after the city announced a tender for the redevelopment of the island. First built in 1952 to showcase the nearby zoo, for decades the moated enclosure was the home of a trio of bears. Amid mounting concerns for its furry residents, it was finally closed in 2020 after a drunken moron entered the pen and sustained minor injuries after attempting to swim with one of the bears. Lying empty ever since, it’s now been revealed that two firms have submitted bids to develop the island, quite possibly into a gastronomic facility.

SUSTAINABILITY

ARCHITECTURE Bridge The Gap

More plans have been outlined for the future of Plac Europejski – made public in March, Ghelamco have issued visualizations for the Chopin Tower, a 130-metre skyscraper to be built in close proximity to The Bridge – a 174-metre construction whose development is already underway. These will join the Warsaw Spire, the underpinning element of the square. Resembling a split quartz crystal, the Chopin Tower will be erected on the current site of a circular pond. However, although dozens of trees have already been removed, Ghelamco have stressed that the future envisions even more greenery than before.

Atrium’s Second Life

As work continues to dismantle the Atrium office block, its been announced that up to 70% of the demolished materials will be reused to help rebuild war-ravaged Ukraine. Already, around 900 windows have been sent across the border, and another 1,000 could be trandported by the end of summer. Aside from windows, work is also under way to save sinks, tiles, doors and mirrors which can be reused in the future. Indelibly associated with Warsaw’s early foray into post-communist capitalism, the Atrium building will eventually be replaced by two skyscrapers that should be completed by 2026.

SOCIAL

Hong Kong Phooey?

A Warsaw residential complex has become the focal point of a bitter debate concerning the future of Warsaw’s housing market…

Nicknamed Hong Kong on account of its closely packed apartments and outsized dimensions, a controversial residential complex has found itself at the centre of a legal storm after a move by City Hall to outlaw ‘pathological’ developments. The work of JW Construction (a.k.a. JW Destruction to many architectural critics), the Bliska Wola Tower has attracted a wave of haters since work on the project began.

In 2021, the cult portal Noizz went so far as to accuse JW Construction of “massacring the capital” with “monstrous buildings”. Warming to the theme, they continued: “Sure, every developer wants to squeeze maximum use out of their residential or commercial space, but JW are unique in that they don’t even aspire or pretend to strive for Western standards.”

From all of their projects, Bliska Wola Tower has attracted the fiercest of criticism. Located on the cusp of the area’s flourishing business district, the complex features two 19-sto-

rey towers and approximately 3,000 apartments within a total circumference of 500 meters. Falling below the regulatory 25 sq/m size requirements for apartments, 157 micro dwellings measuring from 18 sq/m have now failed to be certified by Warsaw authorities who have pledged to fight back against profit-hungry developers.

According to authorities, the apartments had been listed on

the open market rather than utilized as hotel rooms as JW Construction had promised. Among other things, authorities say that the micro apartments have failed to “meet the conditions for rooms intended for the permanent residence of people.”

JW Construction, though, have struck back accusing the City of moving the goalposts and of “official incompetence and ignorance”.

Despite the dehumanizing scale of the investment, Bliska Wola Tower has at least found a sub-genre of fans, they being a fleet of urban photographers perversely drawn to its catastrophic aesthetics. Presenting an almost dystopian vision of Warsaw’s future, memes and photographic essays have flourished ever since this gargantuan project began to rise.

Lost Warsaw: General Berling

Nearly four-years after it was destroyed by vandals, an unloved statue of General Zygmunt Berling has been rediscovered…

Originally sculpted in 1985 by Kazimierz Danilewicz, the three-metre monument was produced from white Russian marble and placed on an equally tall plinth made from red Kielce limestone. Positioned on the Praga side of Łazienkowski Bridge, the monument depicted the stoic-looking general gazing over the river with a pair of binoculars clasped in his hand.

Lacking the sanctity of Warsaw’s other military memorials, this one, however, faced frequent attacks with the general often ambushed with

paint in a way that suggested he had blood on his hands. Finally, on August 4th, 2019, it was smashed to smithereens and left lying on the grass below. On the plinth, vandals had painted the symbol of Poland’s wartime struggle, the socalled Kotwica. Viewed by many as a communist collaborator, this iconoclasm was met with enthusiasm by the majority of Varsovians.

Born in 1896, General Berling earned Poland’s highest military honour during the Polish-Soviet War, serving with particular distinction at the Battle of Lwów in 1920. However, whilst he officially retired in 1939 just before the outbreak of WWII, he was rounded-up later that same year as part of a wave arrests conducted by occupying Soviet forces.

Reputedly imprisoned in Moscow, he opted to cooperate with his captors, a move that most likely saved him from the executioner’s hand. When Polish-Soviet relations thawed as a result of the 1941 Sikorski-Mayski agreement he was installed as the chief-of-staff of the 5th Infantry Division. Similarly, he was also made the commander of a

Soviet camp for captive Polish soldiers. When, eventually, the inmates were given the choice of leaving under the banner of General Anders, Berling refused to follow and instead stayed on in the Soviet Union.

With Anders a prominent supporter of an independent Poland and its government-in-exile, Berling’s actions were viewed as nothing short of national treachery and he was sentenced, in absentia, to death. This did not deter him. Having made his allegiances clear, he then lobbied the Kremlin to create a Polish army that would be loyal to Stalin. Eventually, his wish was granted and by 1944 he had risen to become the deputy commander of Poland’s forces on the Eastern Front.

Backed by the government-in-exile in London, when Poland’s Home Army launched the Warsaw Uprising that same year it was with the clear intention of securing the capital so that it would not be ‘liberated’ by the Soviets and communist Polish stooges such as Berling. As such, the Red Army that had gathered to the east of the river stood largely tacit whilst those fighting for a free Poland bled out for their country on the other side of the Vistula. Even so, attempts were made by Berling’s forces to link up with the insurgents.

Six-weeks after the Uprising had begun, Berling finally issued an order on September 16th for his units to attempt a crossing. Taking heavy casualties, the operation was a disaster and was called off. Many never forgave Berling and saw his initial inaction as little short of treason. Others, meanwhile, later called into question his attempt to cross the river – was this, they asked, just a half-hearted, token gesture given the extent of his resources, or a genuine bid to help his Home Army rivals?

As such, it is understandable why his statue became one of Warsaw’s most unloved landmarks. When it was secured with rope and torn from its plinth in 2019, few mourned its loss. However, much mystery surrounded its subsequent fate –that is, until now. Revealed in March to have been dumped in Grochów, the shattered remains of Berling were discovered hidden in undergrowth on the corner of Wiatraczna and Nizinna streets. Mysteriously, these disappeared just days after photographs of the dismembered statue were circulated online. Not for the first time, Berling has been listed as Missing In (In)Action.

Warsaw’s Unloved Statues

Feliks Dzierżyński

Today, you’ll find playwright and patriot Juliusz Słowacki looking over Pl. Bankowy, but his place was once occupied by Feliks Dzierżyński. Dzierżyński, who rose to command the Soviet secret police in the ’20s, had this whole square named after him during Communist times, and the 1989 toppling of his statue was seen as a landmark event.

Monument to Brotherhood in Arms

Erected in 1945 right outside Dworzec Wileński, this monument found itself nicknamed ‘the four sleepers’ thanks to its depiction of four docile looking soldiers – two Soviet and two Polish. Removed in 2011, when plans were mooted to return it to public display over 10,000 signed a petition against the move. Lying in storage ever since, its set to form part of the permanent exhibition at the forthcoming Polish Army Museum.

Lech Kaczyński

Casting an eye over Pl. Pilsudskiego since 2018, this statue commemorates the Polish president that died in the 2010 Smolensk air crash. Although lauded by many for his leadership, the fact that a police car remains permanently stationed close by to prevent vandalism does much to convey the societal and political schism that exists in modern Poland.

Sounds A Winner

Ray Dickaty, founder and conductor of the Warsaw Improvisers Orchestra, talks about the sounds of the city…

How did you fall in love with improv?

I first developed an interest in Improv in the early 90s. At that time I had relocated to London and had been doing experiments with tape machines, found sounds and instruments and was looking for likeminded people. I soon discovered the London Musicians Collective and started attending workshops with John Stevens, and later on with Eddie Prevost.

Over the years I developed an ear for large ensembles, which I guess could be traced back to growing up listening to my father play Glenn Miller, Benny Goodman, or Duke Ellington records, and of course not forgetting the easy listening sounds of James Last and Herb Alpert. This mixed in with my older sisters Led Zep and Pink Floyd albums and the ever present (coming from the NW of England) Beatles was a pretty generous musical stew.

The sheer power I heard on those big band records was exciting and I guess the amount of tonal colours available is exciting to use. I also like the juxtapositions available in, for example, analogue synth mixed with a folk style voice and a free jazz sax.

How was the WIO born?

WIO started because there was no large-scale improvising ensemble in Warsaw, and, as no one seemed interested in starting one, I took it upon myself to create one. At first it was more of an open situation that people dropped in and out of, but over time it has coalesced into a more formal unit with a central core of between 10 to 15 musicians and upwards of 30 other musicians that reappear every now and again.

As a musician, what’s the buzz of improv?

Composing in real time. It doesn’t always work, but when it does music is created that perhaps couldn’t be imagined: and that’s magical. The musicians and the audience are caught in a real moment of creation, existing only at that specific moment in time that will never be repeated.

A lot has changed since we last spoke – has Warsaw’s jazz scene gone forward in that time?

I think it has developed. A few clubs have closed or relocated but new ones have opened catering to all musical tastes. Clubs like Jassmine, Bardzo Bardzo, Klub Spatif and Pardon To Tu. More underground places like Młodsza Siostra and Pan Dyminska offer true places for ‘live’ experimenta-

tion. There are also clubs for more straight-ahead tastes, the dinner jazz circuit. We are also seeing a lot more international artists performing in smaller club settings alongside the regular annual jazz festivals. It seems like the scene is growing and positively moving forward with generally good attendances at these places.

Do you have a favourite venue to play?

The WIO plays a monthly residency at Chmury. Although not known as a ‘jazz club’ – it generally falls into the more punk / hardcore / electro / darkwave scene – we enjoy playing here, although the stage could be a bit bigger... Taking a large improvising ensemble into a dark sweaty ‘rock club’ suits me very nicely. The staff are great, the audience is responsive, and it’s great fun seeing, for example, a touring American hardcore band who are maybe playing next door at Hydrozagadka, checking out our soundcheck and appreciating our ‘noise’...

What people forget about me is that, although I am known for WIO and improvised music, most of my career has been playing with rock bands, touring in rock clubs, and, living in Camden Town through the 1990s hanging out with, and going to see many so-called indie bands play in sticky carpeted sweaty pubs... It’s an environment I am very happy in.

If you were charged with writing a musical ode to Warsaw, what would it sound like?

A progressive rock opera – on ice. Not dissimilar to Rick Wakeman’s ‘Myths and Legends of King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table’, but with an electronic underscore and a mix of traditional sung Slavic / Jewish Folk motifs, all to be performed on a series of moving trams travelling throughout the city, culminating in its final (icy stage) in front of PKIN.

This would be juxtaposed with Czesław Niemans ‘Sen o Warszawie’ on endless loop slowly decomposing over time into smaller elements, slowed down and electronically effected until the last sound heard would be a fragment of a word, perhaps just a single letter stretched over time and echoing into silence. And why? I’ll leave you to decide that.

For more on the WIO, see: warsawimprovisersorchestra.bandcamp.com

Backstage Access

As a musician himself, there can be few people in Warsaw better qualified to photograph and document Warsaw’s jazz scene than Michał Małota…

On… Jazz Photography

As a teenager I attended a lot of jazz concerts in Warsaw and started taking photos – it felt a natural thing to do. Then I stopped, only to again pick this up around twelve or so years back. For me, it was sad that so many were going undocumented such as the improv sessions at Eufemia. It was this that droveme to resume concert photography.

On… The Past

I started playing gigs around 2009 – Warsaw’s scene was busy. You had places like Eufemia, Plan B, Powiększenie,

and Chłodna 25. In some ways, you can understand why people say Warsaw is now becoming a corporate desert. Of course, we’ve still got good places – for instance, Pardon To Tu, Spatif and Młodsza Siostra, but it all seems a little different: maybe I’m just seeing it from a different perspective compared to the younger generation. As for the music? Myself, I’m still playing the same stuff, only better than before! Some great names that were familiar on the circuit back in the old days have retired, but on the plus side you’ve definitely got more women getting recognition – Kamila Drabek and Pola Atmańska, for instance.

“As for the music? Myself, I’m still playing the same stuff, only better than before!

Photographs left to right; Michał Bromboszcz of the Warsaw Improvisers Orchestra at Chmury, Alexey Vorsoba at Spatif, Mikołaj Trzaska, Tropical Soldiers In Paradise at Pogłos

On… Młodsza Siostra

Młodsza Siostra is a continuation of Eufemia, which for me was a legendary venue. Like its former incarnation, MS could never be described as being upmarket but it’s got a great vibe and some brilliant underground-style concerts. The owner, Michał Grochowiak, has a great eye for talent and it attracts a young, artistic crowd. Having played plenty of concerts in both Eufemia and MS, the place feels intensely personal for me.

On… On Pardon To Tu

Put simply, you can rely on Pardon to invite the best world class artists. On top of that, they’ve got a great light and sound technician that means there’s enough to love there to photograph.

On… The Dream

If I could transfer myself to any point in history, I’d love to photograph a Coltranes’ concert at Village Vanguard. I mean that New York vibe would have been quite something to capture. Or maybe pre-war Warsaw? For sure, also, the post-war era of Krzsztof Komeda would have also been exciting: the different clothes and faces, the cigarette smoke hanging in the air. Legends.

On… The Now

How would I define Warsaw’s jazz scene? A big boiling pot full of younger cats – and some older ones!

“

If I could transfer myself to any point in history, I’d love to photograph a Coltranes’ concert at the Village Vanguard

Photographs left to right; Kamila Drabek at Komuna, MagnificientMuttley at Komuna, Alexander Von Schlippenbach at Pardon To Tu and the photographer/musician Michał Małota

Last month saw Warsaw crowned ‘European Best Destination 2023’. But whilst much space was handed to obvious landmarks and A-list attractions, it was also the city’s energy and sparkle that earned

it praise. Often bypassed by visitors, join us as we celebrate and discover a segment of the centre where its heart beats the loudest – admittedly grubby in parts, it is here where the soul of the city truly comes alive…

DirectlyeastofthePalaceof thatCulturesitsasegmentofWarsaw illustrateseverythingstrange andcharismaticaboutthecity…

Widok

Nowadays, every hotel in Warsaw will try to claim to be ‘design-forward’ or ‘lifestyle-led’. Puro, though, were pioneers. Although their Warsaw outpost came way after their other investments around Poland, the freshness and originality of the brand have helped elevate Widok in the eyes of many.

Known for its young, dynamic style, the hotel’s swagger has been accented further by the way the building organically links to one of the centre’s best-loved murals: painted by LA duo Cyrcle in 2014, and depicting an ancient Greco-Roman statue holding a bright orange rod, in many ways it conveys and captures the clashes and contrasts of Warsaw itself.

But whilst this is the street’s most high-profile burst of art, it’s not the only one. Set more towards ground level, snoop about to find examples of random actions – who can fail but to smile at a cut-out of Jagger declaring “you can always get what you want”.

For years something of an irrelevance – a street with no discernible purpose or pedigree – the building at No. 8 helped etch Widok into the conscience of Warsaw thanks to a string of high profile F&B concepts that have tried their luck in the ground floor unit: first Lorelei, then Burger Kitchen, and then the ill-advised Brewdog with its bargain PLN 40 beers (this before the days of inflation). Now home to the brilliant Guru (USP: a curry so hot you’ll need to sign a disclaimer), that’s not the only standout – gaze up to find a magnificent tenement dating from 1910 and decorated with the kind of embellishments associated with the Viennese Secessionist period.

Krucza

Appearing as a thin slither on the map, Krucza’s northern-most part ends at the foot of a huge wall ‘owned’ by the commercial mural firm GoodLooking Studio – set aside for their creative projects, no other firm has done more to revive what had been the lost art of hand-painted wall ads. Previously involving light-reflective bits and pieces to make their work really come alive, as of press time the mural occupying the space is dedicated to Luther: The Falling Sun. Save yourself

the time: don’t watch the show, but do admire the mural. Featuring a miniaturized Idris Elba, it’s a work of some beauty.

Jerozolimskie

Hook down to Jerozolimskie and you reach CeDeT, a building more commonly known as Smyk on account of its anchor tenant. When it opened in 1951, no other building in the country had used as much glass. Attracting 80,000 people in only its first three days of business, the building was a sensation – it was back in the news in 1964 when it was the scene of one of Poland’s biggest heists. Killing a guard before making off with PLN 1,336,500, the thieves were never caught. Then, in 1975, it was gutted after a mysterious blaze swept through it. According to urban rumours, the fire was politically motivated. Recently rebuilt from scratch to closely mimic the original, it’s fronted by a serpentine blue neon copied on the one that disappeared in the conflagration.

Cyrcle mural

1910 tenement on Widok

Take a block: The City's Salon

Bracka

Smyk is triangulated by an angled section of Bracka, a street whose art nouveau buildings reflect beautifully off the glass buildings opposite. Small it might be, but this section of Bracka is known by all for the presence of Między Nami, an arty café-bar that’s been around forever and a day. For super cool buys, check their concept store before then heading to Stor, a pocket-sized specialty café whose quality is bettered only by their social awareness (a point underlined by the stickers in the window). Explore the courtyards, as well.

In the entrance of No. 18, find preserved doorbells and letter

box holders as well as a display case featuring pictures of Bracka through the ages. Further in, discover a pre-war courtyard shrine, not to mention a Pomeranian ball of fluff answering to the name of Jasiek – owned by one of the hairdressers, this adorable canine is the king of the courtyard!

And, of course, when walking up via Jerzolimskie, look up to marvel at the Orbis globe. First erected in 1951, it was the city’s first post-war neon. Not everyone, though, will share your appreciation. When it was renovated in 2011, one angry local complained it was like “living next to a giant disco light”.

Stor

Bracka 18

CeDeT Building and Orbis Globe

Pl. Pięciu Rogów

Opened as a pedestrianised space last year, Plac Pięciu Rogów (five corner square) – the spot where Chmielna, Szpitalna, Zgoda, Krcucza and Bracka all intersect – was met with derision when it was launched. Partially, this was down to the over-use of concrete. Others, meanwhile smirked at the fountain – “it looks like a blocked plughole,” they said. Valid as these criticisms were, Varsovians –and us included – have warmed quickly to it, not least because it’s a whole lot better than the traffic-clogged mess that came before.

Whilst here, pay attention to what was once the Jabłkowski Brothers department store. Founded in 1884, for years it was seen as the equivalent of Harrods or Selfridges. Today it houses a cult bookstore and a cutesy dog store, but go within and you’ll find a vast interior that’s often reserved for trendy craft and art fairs. However, it’s equally worth a visit when these aren’t on – in the darkness and silence, the stained glass windows that stretch up inside cast the kind of awe-inspiring glow more in tune with a Gothic cathedral.

Back outside, Szpitalna 1 is a tribute to 60s modernism and its balconies are a must-shoot for Insta. Interestingly, initially the apartments inside were reserved for foreigners – with many of these being embassy employees, rumours were rife that the building was riddled with listening devices.

Plac Pięciu Rogów

Jabłkowski Brothers department store

Take a block: The City's Salon

Chmielna

Chmielna does need improvement, and plans are afoot to regenerate it into a green and pleasant space. In the meantime, it does feel a little junky, even in spite of the presence of such ornate and intricate beauties as the wedding white building at No. 30 – reconstructed in 1906, it’s a rare example of an attempt to blend the Zakopane-style architecture of Witkiewicz with the Art Nouveua. To this day, the results are extraordinary.

The rest of the street does feel a little frayed and litter-strewn, but its energy can’t be disputed. By day, stock up on eclairs from Bozzo, eat fancy cakes at Lukullus, or sift through vintage finds at Kulki and Muus (star find: a Ramones jacket!). At night, enjoy the flower of your youth by drinking it up in Hoppiness and Hopito craft beer joints, before finishing your night in the retro-styled Gemba.

Muus

The Eastern Wall

Keen to offset the top-heavy nature of the Palace of Culture, the Eastern Wall was built as a counter-balance. Running down Marszałkowska, post-war plans saw Warsaw born anew from the rubble. “This must be the Warsaw of the future,” wrote Architektura magazine, “a place full of cars, helicopters, scooters and fast life.”

Designed by Zbigniew Karpiński, what grew in the 60s and 70s was an ambitious investment that involved, among other elements, the Rotunda. Rebuilt a few years ago to

return it to its original light and airy style, in 1975 an explosion ripped through it killing 49. Officials blamed a gas leak, but the people knew better – the blast, they said, was the work of embezzling bank officials looking to conceal their crime.

There were also three residential towers featuring 200 apartments each. “Dear Director,” wrote one resident to the boss of the Palace of Culture. “I live in the Eastern Wall complex opposite the Palace. Every night I have strong erotic experiences as a result of radiation from the television aerial on the Palace’s spire. This is extremely exhausting for me, so I hereby ask that the technological department conceals this aerial.”

She was not the only person that lived in perpetual excitement. When the Wars, Sawa and Junior department stores opened, workers were met with stampedes. In particular, people thronged Hoffland, a emporium run by Barbara Hoff, Poland’s Princess of Fashion. “Such was

the pandemonium,” the fashion designer later recalled, “shop assistants wept and despaired.” It took police intervention to restore order.

Now, the oblong units running down the street have again become retail hubs following successful reinvention. This can also be credited to the renewal of the passages behind which now featured winged streetlights, a Hollywood walk of fame, pops of public art and resuscitated landmarks such as the Zodiak – once a canteen, today it’s an architectural meeting point capped by a retro neon.

Big shopping experiences rule here, but keep an eye too for the little things in life. Close to the Relax cinema – where once Star Wars had its Polish premier – lies the atmospheric Relax café, and a short way away, Hey Joe, the narrowest record store in the country. Just 70 centimetres wide, squeeze in to discuss the power of vinyl with the owner Krzysztof Nieporęcki.

“This must be the Warsaw of the future, a place full of cars, helicopters, scooters and fast life

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy

Even if the current ground works make it hard to appreciate this oblong square, visit for the Hotel Warszawa. Set in what was commonly known as the Prudential Tower, this was, in the pre-war years, Poland’s tallest tower. From the upper floors, the country’s first TV transmissions were made, and its importance was such that the tower was seized by insurgents on the first day of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Battered relentlessly by the Germans, it didn’t surrender until the final capitulation. Now the luxury Hotel Warszawa,

pop in to enjoy fine dining at the sixth floor Szóstka restaurant, or check out the fancy concept stores and spa on the lower levels. Outside, practically on the doorstep, the memorial to the Uprising features heavily in official commemorations held each year.

Moniuszki / Sienkiewicza / Jasna

Deeply shaded by blocks new and old, this grid of streets offer up a medley of surprises. Yet none are more impactful than the courtyard at Sienkiewicza No. 4. Though usually locked, wait for people to exit or enter

the gate to file into a courtyard that demonstrates the contrasts of Warsaw to maximum effect – inside its bowels, look up to find the quartz-like Moniuszki Business Centre rising like a spaceship over the courtyard’s square frame.

Setting bullet-pocked buildings against swanky offices and government institutions, this area is enriched by such landmarks as the Philharmonic and the Post Office not to mention random decorations such as stoic stone lions. Passing the strikingly restored Harczyka tenement at Jasna 10 (itself marked by a memorial plaque commemorating the 35 that died here whilst escaping German shelling), you’ll invariably come to the Dom Pod Orłami (House Under the Eagles).

Overlooking a car park that was once a makeshift war cemetery, this sumptuous structure was completed in 1917 and capped by two giant eagles crowning its front corners. Like CeDeT, this too was the scene of one of Poland’s most notorious criminal capers: an unsolved 1964 robbery that netted the thieves PLN 1.3 mill.

Dom Pod Orłami

Hey Joe

Find the lion on Sienkiewicza

Złota

Wider and arguably more faceless than many of the surrounding streets, Złota nonetheless has found its way into Warsaw’s heart on the back of venues such as the Palladium concert space and street food draws such as Du-Za Mi-Ha and Barn Burger. And if you’re

driving, then it's impossible to resist the underground plunge that takes you by tunnel to the Palace of Culture.

Szpitalna & Zgoda

Forking back down to Pl. Pięciu Rogów are this dynamic duo –taking Zgoda first, its here that the area really rocks into life thanks

to the rowdy Shamrock Irish pub and the chic but casual Niewinność wine bar. But wait, there’s more! Offering a convincingly authentic slice of Japan is the Sakamoto-ya store (their onigiri is a must) and the veganised Vietnamese of La Vegana.

But more than just food and drink, further exploration will be rewarded by the discovery of a fantastical mosaic by Wanda Rodowicz. Often obscured by a van, and smuggled next to the entrance of The Mexican, it reveals a band of horses rendered in beautifully coloured tiles.

Last but not least, Szpitalna itself. Often notable for the scrum awaiting brand premiers, the Warsaw Sneaker Store is a legend in its own right, though fashion mavens should head to the inner courtyard found at No. 6. Home to the hip Risk Made In Warsaw label, when you’re done shopping admire the street art that’s prevalent on the exterior walls: an ‘Egyptian’ mural, not to mention smaller scale stencils and stickers such as those honouring Czarny Roman – a legend of Warsaw’s street scene, this character would be found dressed either in a pink onesie or an immaculate black suit. Shouting prophecies of doom, as well as offering advice on yoga and healthy eating, his memory has lived on long after his death in 2017.

Finally, terminate at another neon, this one topping the Wedel chocolate kingdom on Szpitalna 8. Debuting in 1926, it was designed by Leonetto Capiello, an Italian artist regarded as ‘the father of modern advertising’. Showing a boy on a zebra carrying bars of his chocolate on his back, there can’t be a more jolly neon to be viewed in Poland.

Risk Made in Warsaw courtyard

Mosaics by Wanda Rodowicz Wedel Building

1. Barn Burger

2. Bozzo

3. Bracka 18 courtyard

4. CeDeT (aka Smyk building)

5. Dom Pod Orłami (House Under the Eagles)

6. Du Za Mi-Ha

7. Gemba

8. GoodLooking Studio

mural wall

9. Guru

10. Hey Joe

11. Hopito

12. Hoppiness

13. Hotel Warszawa

14. Jabłkowski Brothers department store

15. La Vegana

16. Lukullus

17. Kulki

18. Miedzy Nami

19. Mosaics by Wanda Rodowicz

20. Mural by LA duo Cyrcle

21. Muus

22. Niewinność

23. Orbis globe

24. Philharmonic

25. plac Pięć Rogów

26. Post Office

27. Puro Hotel

28. Relax cinema

29. Risk Made In Warsaw

30. Rotunda

31. Sakamoto-ya

32. Shamrock

33. Stor

34. Tenement building from 1910

37. Warsaw Sneaker Store

38.

A landmark anniversary, April 19th will see the city pause to remember the 80th anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising…

Remembering The Ghetto Uprising

Jews are gathered at the intersection of Karmelicka and Nowolipki Streets in the Warsaw Ghetto, 1941

Representing a third of the Warsaw’s pre-war population, the Nazi occupation saw the city’s Jews shepherded into a Ghetto that was ultimately sealed off in November, 1941. Isolated from the outside world, starvation and disease soon decimated the population.

Even worse was to follow once the Nazis began mechanising their death machine –soon, transports began taking the city’s Jews to the Treblinka death camp.

Although armed resistance conducted by ŻOB, the underground Jewish resistance, had already occurred, this tipped into something else entirely when rumours began swirling that the Ghetto would be liquidated in April of 1943.

UNITED STATES HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL MUSEUM, COURTESY OF RAFAEL SCHARF

Opening Salvos

By the time war broke out, the northern district of Muranów had become the centre of European Jewish life. It’s spiritual core, though, was Nalewki street. Here, wrote one chronicler, “elegant tenements and seedy annexes” stood side-by-side and “beauties mixed with eyesores and the sacred with the profane. Nalewki was a separate universe, a myth, a legend, and the only such street in the world.”

Given the street’s prominence – and its border with ‘Aryan Warsaw’ – it was here that the Ghetto Uprising saw its first action. Entering via the gate that stood at Świętojerska street, around 2,000 German, Latvian and Ukrainian soldiers entered at

dawn on April 19th, confident that the task they had been assigned would go without a hitch. Warsaw’s surviving Jews had, however, other plans. Lying in wait on the rooftops and within the street’s warren of inner courtyards, they greeted the incursion with shots and petrol bombs hurled from above.

Methodically demolished after the insurgency was crushed, there is little that remains of this once thriving Jewish heartland. Not to be confused with the street that currently trades under the name of Nalewki, today it’s been rechristened Stare Nalewki – the tramlines curling past the Arsenał building are the one haunting reminder of this area’s former story.

A housing block burns during the suppression of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, 1943

The Battle Rages

To come close to even fathoming the bravery of the insurgents, one must recognise that even they themselves knew they had no chance of victory. “We knew perfectly well that we had no chance of winning,” wrote Marek Edelman after the war, “we fought simply not to give the Germans that chance to dictate our time and place of death.”

With their entire collection of arms amounting to just two sub-machine guns, 17 rifles and 500 pistols, it was the humble petrol bomb that proved to be the most effective choice of weapon. In particular, heavy fighting took place in and around the environs of Pl. Muranowski (today, roughly the area around Stawki, Andersa and Edelmana streets). Frustrated by the guerrilla-urban street tactics that

the Jews had adopted, the Nazis soon switched to more unconventional methods – burning the Jews out of their hiding places with flamethrowers and suchlike. In German military parlance, the Jews that threw themselves from windows to escape the ensuing infernos were dubbed ‘parachutists’.

Moving in this manner from block-to-block, the Germans were able to extinguish Jewish resistance in a step-by-step manner. Aiding them, they cut water, gas and electricity. Cellars, meanwhile, were cleared with ‘smoke candles’. But despite General Stroop reporting on April 26th that Jewish resistance had been ‘broken’, this was far from the truth. “We fight like animals for naked life,” wrote one Jewish diarist.

Below, Marek Edelman points out where the Mila 18 bunker was among the ruins of the Warsaw Ghetto, 1945. Left, Edelman mural on Karmelicka 26

We knew perfectly well that we had no chance of winning, we fought simply not to give the Germans that chance to dictate our time and place of death...

The Last Stand

Much of the Jewish Uprising was orchestrated from a vast, fortified shelter on Miła 18. Mordechai Anielewicz, the 24-year-old commander chose, along with his girlfriend and approximately 100 other defenders, to commit suicide on realizing they’d been surrounded by Nazi units on May 8th. Before supposedly taking poison, Anielewicz penned a defiant final letter: “My dream has become reality, I have lived to see Jewish defence in the Ghetto in its greatest splendour.” After the war the bodies were not exhumed; instead, rubble was poured on the spot and visitors can now climb the small grassy knoll marking the area of the ‘bunker’.

Escape

Not all of the denizens of the bunker perished. Some chose to flee to take up the struggle with Poland’s Home Army, and these included Marek Edelman – the man who assumed brief command following the death of Anielewicz. Today, on Prosta 51, a monument depicting several pairs of hands vanishing down a manhole commemorates those that attempted to escape via Warsaw’s underground passages. An inscription lists the names of those who made it through the war, those who later died, and, rather poignantly, those who ‘remained in the sewers’.

Combat operations were directed from a bunker at Miła 18. Today, a memorial stands on the site.

The Final Vengeance

News of the Ghetto Uprising had infuriated the Nazi leadership, and its stubborn resistance even more so. In typical fashion, the response was merciless and determined that Jewish Warsaw would, once and for all, be erased from the earth. In line with this, the Great Synagogue was purposefully picked to emphasize the crushing nature of Nazi Germany’s triumph over Warsaw Jewry.

First opened in 1818, and large enough to fit 2,200 people, it was destroyed in a violent flourish typical of the Nazi regime. Gathering troops and dignitaries at 8.15 p.m. on May 16th, the German commander Jurgen Stroop presided over the proceedings. “A fantastic piece of theatre,” he later recalled. “I glanced over at my brave officers and men, tired and dirty,

silhouetted against the glow of burning building, and after prolonging the suspense for a moment, I shouted Heil Hitler and pressed the button.”

Crumbling in a sea of explosions, the synagogue vanished under a cloud of dust. “There was a horrible bang and a fantastic array of colours,” wrote Stroop. Jewish Warsaw had ceased to exist. Decades later, the Blue Tower Plaza rose on the site – breaking ground in 1966, it was only completed in 1991, reputedly after a rabbi had removed a curse that had stated no building would ever again be built on the plot. Featuring a small prayer room inside, according to some one of the skyscraper’s flanks was specifically modelled to evoke memories of the synagogue.

UNITED STATES HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL MUSEUM, COURTESY OF LEAH HAMMERSTEIN SILVERSTEIN

Above, a miniature replica of the Great Synagogue. Below, a segment of the Blue Tower built to mimic the Great Synagogue.

Survivors of the Jewish underground pose on the ruins of the Mila 18 bunker in the former ghetto.

Remnants

Months after the quashing of the Ghetto Uprising, a Polish labour battalion entered the smouldering remains of the district with the order to demolish anything that remained. True to this, little survived bar sporadic elements. Umschlagplatz, the deportation point from which trains destined for Treblinka’s gas chambers left, today exists only as a monument symbolic of a cattle wagon. Dating from 1988, and found at Stawki 10, its inscribed with first names in memory of the 320,000 Warsaw Jews who left directly from here.

Now a place of higher education, the building from which the SS supervised deportations survives at Stawki 5/7, and so too the building at Stawki 10 –once a hospital, untold numbers were once held here before being packed to Treblinka.

Żelazna 103 has likewise survived – described as “the most important place in the Ghetto for the Germans”, it was here that the Germans had their Ghetto HQ. Jewish prisoners were held in the basement, and on April 23rd, 1943, it was the focus of a failed raid to free those interred. Other tangible traces include the Neo-Romanesque St. Augustine’s Church (Nowolipki 18), which was allowed to stay open after the Ghetto was sealed – the two remaining priests worked tirelessly to aid their Jewish neighbours, something that would ultimately cost them their lives. When the Ghetto was raised, it was used as a storage space for stolen Jewish valuables.

At Chłodna 20, in the pretty white tenement, the president of Warsaw’s Judenrat, Adam Czerniakow, could be found living until his suicide in 1942. Close by, an overhead wooden bridge connected the Small

Above, Jews are assembled for deportation at the Umschlagplatz in the Warsaw Ghetto, 1942 and a view of Stawki with remaining buildings today. Below left, a remaining fence from the area next to Umschlagplatz. Right, SS troops force Jewish families to evacuate an apartment building during the suppression of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, 1943.

Ghetto with the Large Ghetto, something now commemorated via a steel installation that spans the street. Fittingly, as elsewhere, floor markings have also been fitted outlining the boundaries of the Ghetto, as well as a memorial and information board to signal the site of the Ghetto’s gate. Such memory blocks have been repeated at other relevant points throughout the city.

Heading south, one can view the pockmarked ruins of the tenement in which the Jewish poet Władysław Szlengel lived during the war at Waliców 14, whilst continuing in a southerly direction will bring visitors to a pre-war Jewish children’s hospital at Sienna 60 – soon, this will house the Museum of the Warsaw Ghetto.

As for the Ghetto wall itself, a small stretch of it can be viewed within the courtyard at Sienna 53. Finally, it is all but mandatory that any tour of Jewish Warsaw takes in the 19th century Nożyk Synagogue (Twarda 6) – the only such house of worship to survive the Nazi campaign to eliminate Jewish Warsaw – before concluding on Próżna street. Though subject to significant gentrification in the last few years, it is the only street that was left largely preserved during the Ghetto’s

destruction. Largely renovated, there are still small swathes that bring to mind the past when it was busy with Jewish trade.

Chronicling The Ghetto

Much of what we now know about daily life in the Ghetto is attributed to the so-called Ringelblum Archives. The work of teacher and social activist Emmanuel Ringelblum, when the Ghetto was first sealed it was he who took it upon himself to create a secret organisation – codenamed Onyeg Shabbos – to record the realities of daily Jewish life. Working with a team of rabbis, historians, doctors and so forth, he collected thousands of essays and testimonies that were later split into three caches and hidden just before the Ghetto Uprising.

Stashed inside milk cans, one was found in 1946, another in 1950. Eluding archaeologists to this day, the third is thought to have been buried on the grounds of what is now the Chinese Embassy. Regardless of its fate, a memorial taking the form of a transparent, illuminated box marks the spot where one of Ringelblum’s archives was found – view it in the garden by Nowolipki 30.

ARCHIVAL PHOTO THIS PAGE UNITED STATES HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL MUSEUM, ALL OTHERS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Above, remaining part of the Ghetto wall at Złota 62. Below, illuminated box marks the spot where one of Ringelblum’s archives was found at Nowolipki 30.

The Nożyk Synagogue damaged by an air raid in September 1939. Left, the synagogue today.

Looking back

Commemoration

The first monument to the Ghetto Uprising was unveiled on April 16th, 1946 – made from blood red sandstone, it still stands outside the POLIN museum. More often than not, though, it is overlooked by the 11-metre tall memorial that was unveiled on the rebellion’s fifth anniversary.

Authored by Natan Rapaport, the project was conceived whilst the war was ongoing. Rapaport, a Warsaw Jew that had escaped the Holocaust by seeking refuge in the Soviet Union, was working as a sculptor in Novosibirsk when news first broke of the Ghetto Uprising, and he quickly set to work sketching out ideas to commemorate its legend.

Built using Swedish granite that had initially been reserved by Hitler’s favourite sculptor, Arno Breker, for a military monument in Berlin, its slab-like panels encase rubble and debris from the Ghetto itself. Famously, it was on the steps in front that the West German Chancellor, Willy Brandt, sank to his knees in 1970 in a spontaneous act of penance and reconciliation. Known as the ‘kniefall’, this moment has itself been commemorated in the form of a of a small memorial wall in the north-west corner of the park.

To The Now…

The POLIN museum has earned much praise for the manner in which it has refused to be pigeon-holed as a Holocaust museum. Far from it, it instead does a successful job of celebrating the rich 1,000 year history of Polish Jewry. Of course, the subject of the Holocaust – and the Warsaw Ghetto – is not ignored, and to coincide with the 80th anniversary of the uprising the museum will present an exhibition titled ‘Around Us A Sea of Fire’.

Debuting on April 18th, it seeks to follow the fate of the 50,000 Jewish civilians caught in the revolt. Playing a part in this,

newly-discovered photographs will also be shown taken by a Polish fireman who secretly took photos having been part of a fire brigade unit press-ganged by the Nazis to ensure that the blazes in the Ghetto would not spread to the other side of the wall.

As always, the museum will also launch a daffodil action on April 19th, with volunteers handing out thousands of paper daffodils on the streets of Muranów. Symbolic of respect, memory and hope, the flower has been strongly associated with the uprising ever since Marek Edelman began leaving them at sites linked to the rebellion.

Above, The Monument to the Ghetto Heroes, below left, The Willy Brandt Monument, below right, daffodil action by POLIN on April 19th.

Commerations of the Ghetto Walls Remaining Non-existent

1. Main Judaistic Library (Tłomackie 5, currently the JHI)

2. The Great Synagogue at Tłomackie (Tłomackie 7)

3. Mass grave at the Jewish cemetery (Okopowa 49)

4. Bridge over Chłodna Street

5. One of the remaining fragments of the Warsaw Ghetto wall (Złota 62)

6. The Nożyk Synagogue (Twarda 6)

7. St. Augustine's Church (Nowolipki 48/50)

8. Pawiak Prison (Dzielna 24)

9. Umschlagplatz

10. The location of hiding and unearthing the Ringelblum Archive (Nowolipki 68)

Maxiumum reach of the Ghetto

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INSIDER'S GUIDE

For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

COMMUNITY HUBS & FOOD HALLS

Coming Up

With spring kicking in, anticipate a medley of events in Norblin, including a vinyl fair on April 2nd and jam sessions every Wednesday in Food Town. Also worth noting, swing into the Art Box Experience an immersive celebration of Monet and other impressionist legends such as Renoir, Cassatt, Cezanne, Manet and Boudin. Consisting of nearly one and a half million video frames and 3,000 cubic metres of projections, it’s set to be one of the city’s biggest attractions of the season.

NORBLIN FACTORY

ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl

OVERVIEW

Opened on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. Representing 200-years of history, the two hectare site is riddled with over 50 leftovers from the Industrial Revolution and these are set against attractions such as the luxury Kinogram cinema (champagne vending machines!), the immersive Art Box Experience, the only Apple Museum in the country (as in the tech brand, not the fruit), a factory museum and the Smart Kids Planet – a 1,600 sq/m project with nine zones that aim to promote logical thinking, healthy eating, motor functions, perception and creative thinking.

F&B

Warsaw’s largest food hall (23 food points and five bars!) has been intelligently designed so as to retain intimacy while never ceasing to remind visitors as to its diverse range of choices – the so-called ‘Asian district’ scores particularly highly. In standalone terms, top marks go to the elegant Piano Bar, the eclectic Uwaga craft beer haven, the swanky MOXO bar-club crossover, and the Tex Mex of Blue Cactus. Finally, check into the Bio Bazar, a farmers’ market with a reputation that extends nationwide.

JOIN THE CLUB

Debuting in February, frequent visitors can now register to join the Norblin Factory Club, an app that will give members access to exclusive offers, promotions and discounts. Free to download, it’s been designed with guests, tenants and suppliers in mind.

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

OVERVIEW

Initially completed in 1904 to serve as Warsaw’s primary source of electricity, Elektrownia appears with frequency in local history books – contested during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (shrapnel holes still dent the building at intervals), it

In April

Last month we wrote about Gatsby, the cocktail bar that everyone is talking about. Evoking the decadent spirit of the Roaring Twenties, it’s not just the drinks of Urszula Trochimiak and Karol Rychlewic that have impressed, but also a program of events that include jam sessions, jazz concerts and DJ sets. Now, you can add English-language comedy to that list – taking place every Wednesday at 7 p.m., rock by for standup performed by the likes of Jordan Thomas Gray of The Comedy Hole.

Get The App!

Designed to make your life a whole lot easier, download the Food Hall app from Elektrownia’s website to order your favourite dishes in advance from the 13 F&B concepts presented in the food hall.

later powered the Palace of Culture – to this day, the switchboard survives. Relaunched in 2020, the blended approach includes an an exclusive top floor beauty hall filled with cutting edge cosmetic and beauty therapy solutions (Anna Lewandowska has been spotted here!), and a retail offer than tends to shirk the mainstream to instead slant in on contemporary Polish design, upscale vintage, niche brands and established local talent.

F&B

Lit by a sea of neon, the food hall is a street food mecca with star turns provided by Philly’s Finest Cheesesteak and Uki Uki Kikuya. Bracketed either side by two flagship bars, the smoothness of this operation can’t be questioned. But this is all complemented by standalone restaurant project such as the chic and design-minded Dock 19 and legendary, fun-fueled Blue Cactus.

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

OVERVIEW

Built in 1897, from its early inception Koneser was designed with one duty in mind: to produce vodka. Nationalized after WWII, Koneser only finished producing vodka in 2007; by that time, the plant was in dire need of care and attention and its Neo Gothic architectural details looked destined to rot and die. But not so. Subjected to a seven-year restoration process, it reopened

In April

in 2018 as a mixed-use project containing cultural sites, F&B outlets, swanky offices and loft-style apartments – no other investment has had a bigger impact on Praga’s overdue regeneration than Koneser. Culturally, it’s also done much thanks to the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art and temporary exhibitions such as Banksy in 2021.

F&B

For foodies, the lynchpin that holds the food and drink offer together is Koneser Grill. Belonging to the portfolio of

Ferment Group (owners and creators of Rozbrat 20, Butchery & Wine and a string of other essential eateries), enjoy a sophisticated, meat-centric menu amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colours. Then, you’ve got the small matter of Bombaj Masala and its Indian street bites served in eclectic surrounds, and newbies such as Setki Powodów, a vibrant, fun space with on-tap cocktails, crazy shots and a menu devised by Insider favourite Michał Bryś (formerly our Chef of the Year).

Ongoing until May 28th, visit the Museum of Fantastic Art to view pieces by some of the biggest names in the field: Zdzisław Beksiński, Jerzy Duda-Gracz, Wiesław Wałkuski, Dariusz Zawadzki, Jacek Szynkarczuk, and Andrzej Olczyk.

Of Koneser’s other events, April 2nd will see the 12th edition of the Koneser Art Fair, and that’ll be followed on the 5th by a tasting of Polish spirits conducted at the wonderful Probiernia Urbanowicz (tickets: PLN 100).

Also looking promising, April 22nd and April 23rd will see a spring craft fair focused on handmade, artisanal goods. As for foodies, they should visit on April 12th: that’s when chef Michał Bryś will be cooking Louisianan food inspired by the film Django Unchained. Priced at PLN 250, tickets are good for cocktails and a five-course menu.

BACK STORY

Built as a market hall during Tsarist times, in later years Gwardii became ‘the home of Polish boxing’ – in 1953, under the guidance of coach Feliks Stamm, Poland’s team triumphed over its Soviet and German counterparts to rack up a horde of nine

medals at the European Boxing Championship. Resurrected as a food hall in 2017, its unpolished interiors have helped it retain a gritty authenticity and a lingering sense of history that’s appreciated by all. Note, unlike Warsaw other hubs, Gwardii is a weekend affair that’s open only from Friday through to Sunday.

F&B

There’s two sides to Gwardii, almost literally. On one, find a

Mark The Date

Running from April 14th to April 16th, pop into Gwardii for the Beauty Without Borders festival. A celebration of universal beauty, the fair will present stalls, stands and exhibitors specializing in cosmetics, makeup, skin, hair and nail care, dietary supplements and, say the organizers, “everything that fits into the broadly understood notion of self-care and self-love.”

farmers’ market whose gems include freshly baked goods, local jams and preserves, and fresh fruit and veg. Then, separated by a communal eating area, find a row of street food hawkers covering a span of global cuisines. Gluing it altogether is the social angle: don’t leave without an expertly poured Guinness from The Shamrock, craft beer from San Escobar or Piwna Gwardii or a cheeky glass of wine from the exceptional Niewinność.

HALA GWARDII

Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl

HALA KOSZYKI

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

OVERVIEW

Revolutionizing Warsaw’s food and drink scene, the 2016 reopening of Koszyki can be considered one of the watershed moments in the city’s gastro timeline. Considered the grande dame of food halls, the brick and wrought iron interiors of this spot look beautiful with the F&B offer split between standalone restaurants such as the fancy Warszawski Sen to vendors like the fist-bumping, burrito boys at Gringo. For craft beer and grilled sausages then Kiełba w Gębie don’t put a foot wrong, though the biggest lines are usually reserved for Soul Food Burgers. The open-all-hours ĆMA is a legend in its own lifetime, whilst The Upper Deck has won credit for its cocktails. Gluing it all together, the Central Bar remains the top check-in.

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Grzybowska 58, browarywarszawskie.com.pl

OVERVIEW

Billing itself as a premium food hall, the centrepiece of Browary contrasts well against Warsaw’s other offers. Occupying a beautifully lit vaulted chamber that was once used to store beer, this magnificently formed space presents an offer based around a “quality over quantity” with twelve concepts vying for attention. Pertinently, the wider offer has also cemented itself into Warsaw’s conscience thanks to addresses such as Robert Lewandowski’s Nine’s sports bar, a flagship brewery-restaurant, the ever popular Balkan eatery Munja, and Baila – a stunning live entertainment emporium.

For Culture Vultures

Koszyki has long reveled in its cultured reputation – from classical evenings to history walks and book signings, there’s rarely a dull month. In April, those wishing to broaden their horizons can do so by viewing Eternal, an exhibition of portraits taken by photographer Maksymilian Ławrynowicz. Opera fans, meanwhile, should pencil April 19th into their diary. Starting at 7.30 p.m., and taking place on the mezzanine level, drop by for a 75-minute performance of The Magic Flute by Mozart.

Paw-Some!

Starting at noon on April 1st, visit Browary to enjoy a six-hour dog extravaganza – lying in store, entertainment is promised in the form of a ‘tricks’ competition and a pageant to find the best non-pure breed. Held in collaboration with the city’s biggest animal shelter, other amusements include a competition to find the dog most similar to its owner. Also featuring a fair, expect oodles of stalls selling leashes, toys, accessories and fancy canine garments.

Based around the concept of sharing, Michał Gniadek’s contemporary menu challenges diners to see food through a fresh, new prism. Flexitarian in approach, enjoy his unique flavors inside a chic space found in our quiet, green enclave of the city center.

Inquiries about reservations should be sent to the following e-mail address: rezerwacje@klonn.pl

ul. Jazdów 1B, klonn.pl

BACKGROUND

Growing up together in Brittany – and even attending the same kindergarten – L’emotion was created by childhood friends Benoit and Thibaut. Joining forces with Dorota, the trio launched a stand in Hala Gwardii whilst simultaneously carving a reputation through a series of pop-up appearances around town. Supplying numerous Warsaw cafes with their croissants, it wasn’t long

till their success demanded a proper bricks-and-mortar venue: cue the opening of L’emotion at the end of last September.

THE PLACE

Set in the same block of buildings as Tuna and CoffeeDesk, L’emotion announces itself via a nifty neon depicting two clinking glasses. Giving off the aura of high street Paris, the interior is a tasteful display of rattan furniture and gilt framed mirrors that gleam from the walls. Drenched in light from the floor-to-ceiling windows, it’s a space that feels tasteful, casual and a little feminine in its look.

ORDER ME

Croissants are the mainstay here, but don’t think of these as being anything like you’re accustomed to. Bursting with cream fillings, these are exploding love bombs that include the best-selling pistachio. But if that’s the best-seller, you ignore the raspberry croissant at your

peril – it’s a work of brilliance, and evidence of Benoit’s past at France’s top pastry college (Les Compagnons du Devoir, should you ask).

And then, who can resist the macaroons. Offered in varying flavours, for us both the mango and the lemon are the stars of the show. France reigns supreme here (the crepes are another forte), but L’emotion also angles off in other directions to present vibrant poke bowls that warrant equal praise.

FINAL BONUS!

Forget me not: although Powiśle is the flagship, don’t overlook their continued presence in Hala Gwardii. Taking up residency just before the lockdown, the L’emotion brand is one to keep close to your heart. L’emotion

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

In Żoliborz, a tiny café is making a big noise among the local coffee afficionados…

You will find smaller cafes in Poland, just not all that many. Roughly the size of a shoebox, it’s little surprise that the moment the sun peeks out most customers decamp to the tables and chairs planted on the pavement. Yet what Błysk lacks in metreage it makes up for in heart. Served over a veneered

table rescued from the PRL period, Błysk’s tight confines generate a natural air of familiarity – being here, you almost feel like you’ve popped round a friend’s house for coffee.

Though largely limited to a scattering of high stools running down the wall, alternative seating is provided in a snug little corner sparingly decorated with plants and trinkets. It is,

however, the aforementioned table that is the central ballast – representing the anchoring element of Błysk, light pours in to cast its warming glow over the bottled bio juices, trays of cookies and kitschy Virgin Mary candles that are spread over its surface. To the side, note also the pastry display, which on our visit comprised of generous wedges of matcha-flavoured cheesecake.

But Błysk would be nothing were it not for the coffee – fixed by Basia and Michał, these are baristas that are top of their game. Whilst delicious espresso shots appear to sell the best, visit too for specialties like the ‘oatly spicy kopiko’, a pleasing blend of espresso, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, sugar cane and oatly. Even the speckled ceramics (AOOMI should you ask) are absolutely gorge. The equivalent of discovering a secret chakra point, even the neighbourhood dogs appear to approve – it’s not mandatory to bring a four-legged friend, but it’ll sure help you fit in.

Błysk

Słowackiego 22

EATING HISTORY: AHAAN

In the first of an ongoing series, join us as we explore the stories and the food found in Warsaw’s more historic addresses…

THEN

Lauded as one of the finest books ever written in the Polish language, the tollhouses that stand on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej feature in Lalka, the epic novel written by Bolesław Prus. “I hav-

en’t looked beyond those gates for twenty years,” exclaims the protagonist of the book.

Forming an integral part of Warsaw back in those days, they were one of many pavilions that ringed the city’s perimeter. Marking the city’s boundaries, it was here that weary travellers would pay a tax to enter the town. But more than just a way to pad the coffers of the city, they also served as filtration and check points to determine that those coming in weren’t bringing in diseases such as cholera.

Several of these existed in Warsaw, but only a handful have

survived – two in the Praga district and the pair found here, on Mokotów’s border. Built between 1816 and 1818, these were designed by Jakub Kubicki, a notable architect whose long list of credits include the Kubicki Arcades underneath the Royal Castle and the Belvedere Palace in Łazienki Park.

A student of Domenico Merlini (whose own portfolio included the Huntsman’s Palace in Łazienki Park), Kubicki’s classicist designs made him one of the most sought-after architects of the era. Featuring deep porticoes and Doric columns, his tollhouses were spectacular, a point not lost on the city’s conservators – in 1965, they were entered into the Register of Monuments. Looking almost like wedding cake adornments, these former checkpoints have been – at long last – returned to their best after decades of neglect…

NOW

Where once the tollhouses must have impressed upon visitors the riches that lay beyond, by the turn of the millennium they stood as abandoned, sooty shells – almost like a forewarning of the gritty city centre straight up ahead. Blending in with the general sense of dankness that had been allowed to settle over Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, it wasn’t until recently that they were awarded the TLC that their architecture merited.

Whereas one was transformed into the shortly-lived Sue Ryder Museum, its twin was earmarked for gastronomic service: a café followed, then a wine bar, and subsequently a disappointing sushi stop. All

seemingly lasted three-minutes before giving up for good.

Finally, though, a more stable tenant has been found. First coming to notice during their tenure in one of the shabby units running beneath Poniatowski Bridge, Ahaan have emerged as the Insider’s No. 1 choice when it comes to exotic Thai flavours. And yes, it’s the flavours that are king. Sourcing such rare-to-find ingredients as holy basil, it’s that kind of attention to detail that has marked Ahaan out – you’d be guessing a while before realising it was owned by a trio of Poles.

Seemingly obsessed with recreating the street food tastes discovered on their travels, there is much to applaud here –often generously spiced (maybe too much whinge some conservative locals), expect big bangs of flavour with the massaman curry but an altogether gentler experience with the Khao Soi,

an aromatic blend of coconut milk, mustard, shallots, noodles and chicken. Billed as a dish to share, the Som Tom green papaya salad is a pleasure of sweet-sour-salty sensations, but if there is a star then allow that to be the Pad kra pao – stir-fried rice served with a fried egg, long beans, a choice of meat and that aforementioned holy basil. Featuring hints of fish sauce, it’s nigh on becoming something of a signature.

This, however, would be nothing without the overarching atmosphere. Whereas previous tenants have struggled to make this historic address their home, Ahaan have embraced it and somehow transformed it into a little corner of Thailand. Cluttered and at times chaotic, discover a super-casual space swathed with corrugated iron, wobbly stools, wipe-clean floral tablecloths, and hanging metal lights.

Ahaan

Pl. Unii Lubelskiej 1, ahaan.pl

MEET THE FOCCA

The artisanal sandwich store rocking Żoliborz

Lauded by some as the best baker in the galaxy, Monika Walecka was making magic long before the lockdowns unleashed everyone’s inner baker. “My bread reflects my experiences,” she tells the Insider. “Every loaf tells its own

story and includes elements from people that have either inspired or taught me: each one is like having baby with your baker friends!”

Milling the flour herself then baking the bread with wholegrain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get

sifted, the results are impossibly fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn. Coming with a dark, crunchy crust, it’s little wonder that visitors to her Cała w Mące bakery often hail from way beyond the Żoliborz postcode.

But now, Walecka’s fans –and that means 60k on Insta alone – have another reason to celebrate, that being the opening of a small store a short walk from Plac Wilsona. Though

bread here is abundant, it’s what’s inside it that’s become the primary pull. Inspired by the fresh grab-and-go bites she discovered while travelling Italy, and alarmed by the lack of takeout options in Żoliborz, it is the sandwich path that Focca treads down.

Selling six or so types of sandwich each day, on our visit that meant an epic BLT as well as a playfully Asian option featuring pak choi, eggplant, coriander, rocket, peanut and tofu. And, of course, there’s traditional mainstays such as a classic ham and cheese lathered in butter – were it pimped up with a dab of artisanal mustard it’d be just about perfect. But as for a standout, then say a prayer that your visit will coincide with the availability of grill-pressed country bread stuffed with mimolette, cheddar and blue cheese – the pairing of crunchy bread and gooey cheese is as irresistible as it sounds.

Costing around PLN 22, and weighing approximately the equivalent of a small family car, neither can you dispute the price-to-quality ratio – this torpedoes high street chains into the water. Moving on from the sandwiches, the croissants with aged bursztyn cheese warrant a tip of the hat, and so too the fast-selling brownie cheesecake. And those aren’t the only things worth feasting your eyes on: breath-taking floral arrangements from Kwietn Wóz burst forth in a riot of colours, casting an ambient mood over a tiny locale whose shelves also include wines from carefully selected European producers.

Rewarding those with a little

time on their hands, hang about to order something pressed while chatting over coffee, and maybe eek out details about their plan to build-up their deli stock by utilising the mousehole-sized space tucked behind the elevator entrance to the nearby metro. Here, jars and other curated staples of Walecka’s favourite flavours should soon be displayed. Something of a neighbourhood treasure, every street in Warsaw deserves a little Focca.

Focca

Pl. Wilsona 4 (enter from ul. Słowackiego)

THE BRUNCH BUNCH

Lychees give a contemporary twist to the art of brunch…

Ah, brunch – not quite breakfast, not quite lunch, but it comes with a little slice of fruit somewhere on the plate. A phenomenon that suits all hip cities, and catering to a blearyeyed crowd looking to regroup from the night before, the best brunches give the body what it craves: something sweet, savoury, and alcoholic. Well, as a been-there-done-that 40-something, it’s exciting to revisit an age-old tradition presented with a twist: i.e., in a veganised and non-alcoholic format.

WORTH THE WAIT

Rumour had it that the queue for the opening started building 30-minutes before the big reveal. Although that might not sound too welcoming, realize that the clientele at Lychees are like one happy family. Drawing in sociable, positive thinkers, it’s almost like standing in line for tickets to a Tegan and Sara concert.

ONCE INSIDE

Set in the back of one of Warsaw’s alt-culture staples, Resort, this isn’t the first collaboration that owners Monika Mazurek and Klaudia Górak have turned their hand to –find their original restaurant, the fab Peaches Gastrobar, sharing space with Klub Spatif. Design-wise, the pair’s taste for cool is unmissable and surmised by a wall of glazed ceramic tiles from Holland’s GBD. studio – believe us, it’ll become something of a background for spring fashion TikTok posts.

PLATE ART

There’s something of a norm when plating dishes in the capital, and then there is what the dynamic international kitchen of Lychees comes up with. It’s not only plate art in the sense of how the dishes are composed, but how the creative combinations of flavours come together.

Examples come thick and fast but shine especially brightly with a congee served with cashew butter glazed in muscovado, salsa macha, salty angel wings, roasted shallot, and a topping of roasted soybean sprinkles.

There’s humour, as well –take their version of the traditional zupa mleczna (milk staple), a PRL staple that gives many nightmares. Here it’s a witty delight of Asian tastes: lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves that slurp down to be followed by a rice dumpling with black sesame before giving way for a bobbing dessert of Prosecco-poached pear.

INSIDER FAVOURITE

I mean, everyone loves French toast for brunch, but like the other surprises on the menu, this has an almost Sicilian kiss to it: enjoy a tomato and blood orange combination cut with a Mediterranean-influenced tahini. Snapped against the window it’s absolute hardcore food porn with tastes that you’ll remember long after you leave.

INSIDER TIP

Brunch is made for sharing with friends, but Lychees is special enough to be selfish and go on a weekday by yourself to savour it all with out the crowds. -KD

The Buzz

Discover the best culinary experiences in town with The Buzz! We have scoured the city to bring you the hottest restaurants, bars, and cafes. From trendy hotspots to hidden gems, our reviews will guide you to gastronomic bliss.

PICK OF THE MONTH

Yatta Ramen BBQ

Nowolipki 15

Filled with cartoon-like illustrative art and generous slashes of neon, Yatta are the latest Japanese venture to try their hand in this area. Highly competent in their execution, the busy, youthful vibe reflects the mood, philosophy and quality of the food. Heaped with pickles, spring onions and squirts of chili mayo the Soboro fries are essential. Given their name, the ramen is of course the main reason to visit, but do also scope out their ribs and chicken skewers.

FOR THE EXTRAORDINARY Epoka

Ossolińskich 3

Nineteenth century cornices and baroque drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury to this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. La Liste officially rank it among the world’s Top 100 Restaurants.

FOR THE EXQUISITE

Nolita

Wilcza 46

Winning our award last year for ‘Outstanding Achievement’, chef Jacek Grochowina’s enclave of class looks dashing with its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, but it’s the food that has made it the place Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Treasuring detail and finesse, Nolita demonstrates fine dining hasn’t died.

FOR THE TASTING MENU

Rozbrat 20

Rozbrat 20

Fusing upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of, Rozbrat 20 is a Warsaw gastro landmark. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak, the frequently changing menu has a real playful inventiveness to it.

FOR DATE NIGHT

Ale Wino

Mokotowska 48

Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a

decked courtyard terrace for when its not.

FOR NEW WAVE

hub.praga

Jagiellońska 22

Heading the kitchen is Witek

Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘Top Talent’ title at our Best of Warsaw awards. The tan, beige and white interior is embellished with moon-shaped mirrors and statement art, and is twinned with tiny a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturised works of art.

FOR AN EVENING OF DAZZLE!

Nuta

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Let Andrea Camastra take you into the realms of the spectacular at what we figure to be Poland’s finest dining experience. His dizzying takes on Polish classics simply are unbelievable in both taste and composition. Sophisticated but never ceremonial, this restaurant is a banger.

FOR THE LUNCH DEAL

Muzealna

Jerozolimskie 3

Minimalistic at first sight, this sun-kissed chamber in the nether regions of the National Museum is sprinkled with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers. Chef Przemysław Suska, a rising star with the world at his feet, has modernized Polish classics whilst giving international dishes a Polonized spin: step forward the beetroot wellington! The lunch deal is a steal.

FOR THE ALL-ROUNDER

Browar Warszawski

Haberbuscha i Schielego 2

Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such

as tiny antique details. While most visit for the house-brewed beer, the upscale gastro-pub menu has many moments of excellence.

FOR THE BLOGGERS FAVE

Bez Gwiazdek

Wiślana 8

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate

and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast.

FOR NEW POLAND

Źródło

Targowa 81

Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings and extravagant light installations. Menu-wise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local

YOU ALWAYS HAVE A SPOT

The app and platform for table reservations. Easy and convenient to use, with the ability to send invitations to friends, reminders, an overview of all reservations, and an active map with restaurants in the area where tables can be reserved.

produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for magnificence.

FOR BREAD & BREAKFASTS

Baken

Żurawia 6/12

Baken feels like a merger between the chic streets of Paris and the cosy corners of Copenhagen, with its delectable breads and inviting atmosphere hinting at French and Danish charm. The energy is conducted through an open kitchen and expressed by handsome staff clad in white t-shirts. The scrambled eggs from the happy hens of Rozwienica are a must – so too are plum Crêpes Suzette.

FOR ITS CASUAL SCENE

Bibenda

Nowogrodzka 10

Preserving the pre-war heritage of the building, the warm interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a special night out with friends – with no reservations taken, queues can snake outside the door. Working both as a bar and restaurant, the now meat-free menu is creative and deals only with the best small-scale suppliers.

FOR GARDEN BITES

Klonn

Jazdów 1B

Named after the illuminated maple tree outside, the parkland setting proves a brilliant backdrop for this dark and arty restaurant. Chef Michał Gniadek has lived up to his early potential to build a small menu that is international in scope but (mainly) local in its components. The flavours are a fantasy of skill.

FOR RED HOT INDIAN

Guru

Widok 8

From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is

exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry!

FOR NEIGHBORHOOD GREEK

Mr. Greek Souvlaki

Londyńska 16

Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is – head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reigns in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits well with the meaty skewers.

FOR PERFECT PIZZA

Pollypizza NEOpolitan

Puławska 24

Spliced with a glitzy leopard-shaped pizza cutter, the pies at Polly have attained quite a following ever since this place burst onto the scene. Featuring CBD oil, the Legalize Marinara is indicative of their slightly wacky approach – as too is a design that includes disco balls, cord banquettes, neons and other retro-cool touches.

FOR A SEAFOOD ADVENTURE

Tuna

Elektryczna 2

Resembling the scales of a fish, Tuna’s core decorative element are 18,000 tuna cans that sheathe the walls. Smartly appointed in dark metallic colors, visit for an exhilarating menu that includes salmon jerky, tuna sausages, an elaborately reconstructed dorada tail and the best-selling chili con tuna. It’s an ecstasy of tastes.

FOR HARDCORE CARNIVORE

Mięsny

Walecznych 64

To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, the greatest

informal restaurant that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. For the budget-minded, the daily-changing lunch deal often hits perfect marks.

FOR SOMETHING UNEXPECTED MOD

Oleandrów 8

Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with new media types.

FOR THE CHECK-IN

happa to mame

Hoża 43/49

Don’t look for a sign, rather for the queue that wraps its way around the corner. Specialising in matcha teas, the menu also include dango rice balls and daifuku mochi filled with seasonal delicacies. Split in two rooms, the one that gets the most attention touts illuminated mesh-wired installations that hang like clouds.

FOR CEVICHE

Ceviche Bar

Twarda 4

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is naturally the default order, and here its served in around five different forms. The happening, cosmopolitan ambience is reflected by sublime cocktails.

FOR A VEGAN THRILLER

Dziki Królik

Rzeczypospolitej 2A

The four-table intimacy of this timber-encased room charms immediately, and is accented by a neon pink flamingo, fragranced candles, and a discreet pile of books such as Emily Hanson’s Modern Rustic. Head chef Magdalena Kurowicka’s involves Warsaw’s best tacos and more fine-handed concoctions that are veganized with love – for example, soy meat bourguignon.

FOR CITY CENTRE VEGAN

Peaches Gastro Girls

Mokotowska 58

There’s jillions of vegan competitors sharing the same postcode, but no-one pulls it off like Peaches. Touting a cool, scuffed courtyard and radical orange interiors, the Portobello tacos are a Mexican love letter while the wontons deserve their own gold medal.

FOR VEGAN NOODLES

Vegan Ramen Shop

Finlandzka 12 / Jana Pawła II

52/54 / Kazimierzowska 43

We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Enjoy them in a trio of casual eateries each touting their own urban style.

FOR CRAFT BEERS & FOOD

Syty Chmiel

FOR NATURAL WINES

Rascal

Moliera 6

Reputedly Europe’s largest bar specialising in natural wines, this former canteen for ballet dancers is one of the hottest addresses in town – a point not lost on the Vogue staffers encamped here. Crowned with a veneered, marble-topped bar, the interior is a chic work that’s outdone only by the Insta-friendly garden.

Marszałkowska 10/16

Though undeniably large, intimacy isn’t short in supply, and that’s down to the comfortable armchairs, atmospheric lo-lighting and personal trinkets that reflect the passions of the owners (skateboards, for instance). The taps offer a rotation of craft goodness, but just as many people gather for the food of Pan Tasak: his menu is a sincere celebration of Poland’s rural greatness.

FOR OLD TOWN PINTS

Same Krafty & Same Krafty Vis-a-Vis

Nowomiejska 10

Jammed between the Barbican gateway and the Rynek, Same Krafty’s pair of Old Town drinkeries face opposite each other to offer their own mini-pub crawl. Appearing as raucous and rugged tavern-like bars, the experimental craft beers are a league ahead of the mainstream fizz peddled by the other nearby bars.

FOR THE HEART OF POLSKI CRAFT

Kufle i Kapsle

Nowogrodzka 25

Respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage, the brick interiors are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. On colder nights, make your way to the back to discover an intimate space sprinkled with vintage armchairs and wonky old lamps set at a

FOR POLISH SUPER BREWS

Pinta

Chmielna 7/9

Bearing the hallmarks of the previous tenant (Mikkeller), the minimal but primrose-coloured Scandi-design keeps the attention on the beer which comes, mainly, from the namesake brewery. Considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft adventure, the beers are brilliant and fairly priced.

FOR CASUAL WINEY EVENINGS

Niewinność

Zgoda 5

Completely lacking in that frosty formality that defines many wine spots, the welcome here has more in line with entering your favorite local bar. Casual and comfy but never short of chic, it looks more like a trendy loft apartment with its communal table, poster art and zaps of neon.

FOR FUN-FLIRTY NIGHTS

Reginabar

Koszykowa 1

A wacky amalgam of New York’s Little Italy and China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of

natural tilt. The beers are among the most radical in Warsaw.

drinks. Lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde: just check out that glittery disco ball.

FOR ITS RETRO HIP

Paloma Inn

Poznańska 21

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, Paloma Inn is a groovy blast of lunar lines, pea green colour tones and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. The experience is compounded by easy listening muzak, 70s menu faves like fondue and mega fun cocktails.

FOR VENETIAN ALLURE

Va Bene Cicchetti

Waryńskiego 9C

Rich in golds and operatic reds, the stylish Venetian theme includes table legs painted in gondola stripes and a signature mural made from mirrored shards. Drinks are works of art. Tailored around Italian ingredients, these include six interpretations of the negroni and a concise roll-call of Prosecco and Martini-based drinks.

FOR A SOPHISTICATED TOP SHELF

Aura

Hoża 27

Aura’s Moroccan-style design is mysterious and engaging –promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Fitting into a tiny nook, Aura’s other big sell-point is their collection of bourbon.

FOR COCKTAILS WITH STYLE

Zaremba

Nowogrodzka 15

Black and white photos referencing the history of this former gentleman’s atelier gaze from the walls onto a compact interior heaving with brass, terrazzo and

blue velvet finishes. A café by day, come evening Zaremba moves into cocktail territory with sophisticated drinks crafted from premium components.

FOR AN INSIDER CLASSIC NIGHT

Pardon To Tu

Al. Armii Ludowej 14

Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent colour scheme and wall of favoured musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched!

FOR THE MUSIC

Chmury / Hydrozagadka

11 Listopada 22

Set in a fleapit courtyard, it’s hard to tell where one begins and the other ends, but both are spiritually cojoined by a devotion to eclectic live music. Tight and crowded, it’s a place where audience and band become one, feeding off each other to generate an electrifying atmosphere.

FOR THE ATMOSPHERE

Beirut & Kraken

Poznańska 12

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (sandbags, ammo boxes…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken. Evenings dissolve into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.

FOR STUDENT CARNAGE

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’

Nowy Świat 26

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realisation that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into murk and chaos.

SAMPLE A ROAST

El Cafatero

Marszałkowska 27/35

A father and son operation, this cult roastery now has a café to speak of (run by Milena, the daughter). Specializing – but not limited to – the coffees of Africa, this intimate café comes with a super-hip vibe and a wall plastered with Polaroids. Snuck discreetly behind Pl. Zbawiciela’s ginormous church, consider it a gentle reminder of the area’s cult reputation among those that fall between Generations X and Z.

FOR IRISH MAYHEM

The Shamrock

Zgoda 5

Little more than a shabby bare room lit by a greenish Carlsberg sign, the atmosphere compensates for the aesthetic shortcomings. Find a melting pot of nationalities slopping beers over each other while shouting their orders to Curtis behind the bar – high on noise and bellowed banter, the atmosphere cranks yet further whenever Curtis grabs his guitar to lead his audience in song.

FOR ALT. ENTERTAINMENT

Worek Kości

Bagatela 10

There is nothing ordinary about Worek Kości and that’s underlined by its collection of 400 replica skulls. Known for its burlesque nights, this passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre also has a busy roster of lectures dedicated to criminal profiling, forensics and serial killers. Oh, and the cocktails are great.

FOR THE PRAGA VIBE

W Oparach W Absurdu

Ząbkowska 6

Craft beers lurk within the fridge, but for the seminal Absurdu experience order a tray of vodka before bulldozing through the crowds that gather to listen to Balkan rock and Afro-Latin bands. Somewhere, hidden deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a wood-carved bar. Exploring this musty space is an adventure in itself.

FOR SOMETHING FOR ALL

Foton

Wilcza 9A

You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is natural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, and these are enjoyed to a cool backdrop made up of fleet of tumbling plants perched on steelframed irrigational contraptions.

FOR EXPERIMENTAL COFFEE

Cophi

Hoża 58/60

Owner Uri Wollner is one of the great coffee influencers of Poland, and his seasonally changing menu includes such winners as Aperol espresso in summer and spiced pumpkin latte in the autumn and winter. This passion project is best appreciated if you can snag one of

the few armchairs in this tiny locale.

FOR COFFEE & CAKE

Tonka

Karmelicka 16

Looking onto the glorious glass cube that is the POLIN museum, Tonka’s crystal white minimalism rules with the monotone palette given punch by subtle zaps of greenery. The coffee – sourced from the likes of HAYB – is excellent, but tastes even better when tested alongside Tonka’s ever-changing line-up of mind-blowing cakes.

FOR COFFEE OF LEGEND

Stor

Tamka 33 / Bracka 18

For many there is no better café anywhere in Poland than Stor’s original on Tamka. When the sunlight slopes in through the window, there are few finer feelings than idling away in this plant festooned refuge. Famed for their glorious coffee and detail-driven approach, recognition should also be handed to their devotion to local causes and zero waste philosophy.

FOR CHAMPION BREWS

Forum

Elektoralna 11

Forum has it all: a fashionably frayed interior, a friendly dog nuzzling around (hi Apollo!), and a client base that expects nothing but the best – and at Forum, that’s exactly what they get. Marketing themselves as “the home of the Polish Aeropress and Polish Brewers’ Cup Champions”, these accolades say everything there is to know.

FOR PRAGA COFFEE

Trzy Kruki

Pl. Hallera 8

Minimalistic in its design, here the atmosphere of the People’s Republic clashes head-on with the creative, liberal mindset that defines modern Warsaw. Pick up a bagel and coffee and sit in the park across the street.

WELCOME TO GREECE!

For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki!

ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

20 20

BEST o f W ARS AW Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

Boxing

Gala

April 22

Open Friday through Sunday

Plac Żelaznej Bramy 1

halagwardii.pl

5 years of community building

5 years of respecting history

5 years of helping

5 years of successful partnership with City Hall

LIVING A WALKABLE URBAN LIFESTYLE

The liberty to experience daily life on foot…

BY ANNIKA LUNDKVIST

Ifirst heard of the ‘15-minute city’ in Spring 2020. I was living in a medium-sized city in central Sweden at the time and my mind immediately perked up. “Yes,” I thought, “This is exactly the quality of this city that I have been appreciating so much.” I had just never given a name to it.

My urban lifestyle at the time was largely defined by the practicality of being able to reach my destinations in under 15 minutes.  The walk to my children’s preschool was around 12 minutes, after which it was less than 10 minutes to the nearest green space with an outdoor gym where I could get some morning exercise. My route home from there was about 5 minutes, passing by a hospital, multiple shops and sometimes popping into our local grocer to get provisions before going home (I worked remotely at the time).

No doubt, had I needed to commute to a workplace in person, that would have added on an additional route, but the

beauty of such a lifestyle is also that in your leisure time and days off, you can truly enjoy the diverse opportunities in your own neighbourhood to run errands or just have some time off.

A 15-minute city lifestyle has nothing to do with restrictions but rather conversely, with enhancing local living and opportunity. Having experienced numerous and varied chapters of life in different environments (ranging from extremely car dependent to very walkable), living a 15-minute city lifestyle was, for me, one of the most liberating experiences related to place, built environment and daily routine.

As Spring turned into Summer and then Autumn (all the while in a society with no lockdown while people in many cities across the world were experiencing restrictions to movement and activity due to the COVID lockdown), I began documenting how I experienced life in what I considered a textbook example of a 15-minute city.

15-MINUTE CITY IN THE WARSAW CONTEXT

In October 2022, I started as a PhD student at the Institute of Geography and Spatial Organization (Anthropos Doctoral School, Polish Academy Of Sciences). Under the guidance of my supervisor Prof. Ewa Korcelli-Olejniczak, my work focuses on issues of mobility choices, decision and behaviour and more specifically, issues of walkability in Warsaw.

According to Prof. Korcelli-Olejniczak, “Each district (or even neighborhood) within the Warsaw metropolitan area should aim at developing a local specificity of a 15-minute city system, one that refers to the scope of functional needs and the local social hyper-diversity. In these terms, although the concept drafts a general urban pattern based on an availability and walkable (or sustainable transit-based) accessibility of amenities, it simultaneously allows for a variation embedded in the areas's placeness.” -dr hab. Ewa Korcelli-Olejniczak, prof. IGiPZ

Annika Lundkvist is a PhD Student at the Institute of Geography & Spatial Organization (Anthropos Doctoral School, Polish Academy of Sciences) in Warsaw and a Fellow at the Bristol-based think tank The Schumacher Institute.

We are also focusing on the 15-minute city concept, as a manifest reality at the neighbourhood level in Warsaw, focusing on issues of spatial and social equity, inclusiveness and quality of life. Proximity and walkability are the essence of good urbanism. With regards to mobility, for the 15-minute city lifestyle to flourish at the neighbourhood level across districts, the needs of those who face more accessibility challenges (those moving with wheelchair, stroller, walker) needs to be prioritised.

Additionally, focusing on connectivity (walkways, cycle paths, public transportation) to the suburban areas and peripheries is vital. We have observed with the urban rapid rail that this excellent connectivity indeed exists for multiple peripheral areas and assume that with time and the municipality’s sustainable urban mobility plan, this will only be improved.

The central role of affordable, accessible and quality public transportation for walkability on the metropolitan scale cannot be overstated. Warsaw has a flexible, diverse and dynamic public

transportation system that with ongoing improvements (additional tram lines, eventual metro line expansions) will enhance the liveability of the city as well as the opportunity for inhabitants to choose more sustainable modes for their movement.Warsaw is a thrilling city to research issues of mobility, locality and place and quality of life in. I inhabit my research, walking and using the diverse modes public transportation, on a regular basis. The metropolitan area is an incredible living laboratory to research contemporary issues of urban mobility.

In December 2022, I began my Warsaw-based Urban Mobility workshop series. The purpose of these workshops has been to engage residents of the city at the outset of my research, so that civic engagement is part of the foundation of my work. This has been a really exciting dimension of my research, giving me the opportunity to meet residents of Warsaw in spaces around the city as well as to collaborate with different community and cultural centres to host these events.

SPRING WALKING LABS

Experience the neighbourhoods of Warsaw via resident-led walks

15 April at 3 p.m.

Urban Mobility workshop at Ursynów District Office, Conference Room 136

22 April at 11 a.m.

Walkable Urbanism in the Anthropocene Talk by Annika Lundkvist at Ośrodek Kultury Ochoty

23 April

Ghetto Walk witnessing points of remembrance in the area where the Ghetto formerly exisited.

30 April

Meditative walk & writing experience, Creative Walkshop by Annika Lundkvist, Kamień Pawilon Edukacyjny

For more details, see: pedestrianspace.org

MA-URI MASSAGE IS NOT ONLY A RELIEF FOR A TIRED BODY, BUT ALSO A REAL FEAST FOR THE SPIRIT.

A massage like no other, Polynesian massage relaxes, eases tension and helps to achieve a perfect physical and emotional balance by introducing harmony between the body, mind and spirit. In addition, in this massage is a wonderful massage of the head, hair and face in addition to cosmetic qualities causes the "exposure" of emotions, and thus, the ordering of thoughts and strengthening of perception . Smooth movements to the rhythm of calming music give the massage harmony and balance in the human body. After the massage, you feel that you have more energy to act.

Body & Mind massage by HANKA KRASZCZYŃSKA

ul. Pełczyńskiego 28 E/lok. 24 Al. Jerozolimskie 45, Hotel Polonia Palace + 48 798 665 254

www.lomilomi.waw.pl

learning

preschools

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations)

Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22 646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

Infant & Toddler

Tatrzańska 5a

Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini

Badowska 19

Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Szwoleżerów 4

Tatrzańska 5a

Pytlasińskiego 13a

warsaw montessori family

Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree

Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught

in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual

School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaure-

ate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@ joyprimaryschool.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

antiques

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

shopping experiences

ARKADIA

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

KOLO

What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. ul. Obozowa 99

KWADRYGA

Antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past. ul. Wilcza 29

LAPIDARIUM

Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… The opportunities for rummaging are endless. ul. Nowomiejska 15/17

PRIMA PORTA ANTIQUITIES

At the top end of the scale the German-run Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. ul. Moktowska 71

THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and

rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with

curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

shopping exeriences

1 Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

3

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

4

8 Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

9 Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

10

Westfield Arkadia

Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia

11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums

1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl

2

4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

6

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl

7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

sport

6 Koneser Pl.

7 Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

3

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

1 Legia Stadium Łazienkowska 3, https://legia.com/

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

5 Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

Konesera, koneser.eu

INSTA KARMA

First in a new series presenting Warsaw’s most Instagrammable spots, we bring you the epic ‘stairway to heaven’…

Alright, you’ve guessed it, it’s actually an escalator, but boy, what an escalator it is. And, in fact, there’s two to choose for a pic to remember. If Warsaw’s first metro line was mostly concerned about function, its second – or M2 as it’s more widely known as – made up for the aesthetic shortcomings of the original by imbuing Warsaw with several photogenic stops.

Few, though, compete with Świętokrzyska – zipping users up via a spherical tunnel, here the surfaces have been decorated with irregularly positioned spots of light that create the illusion of travelling through space. Fittingly, however, it is the station named after the astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus that delivers the biggest impact.

Touting what is reputedly the longest escalator in Poland (40.4 metres), Metro Kopernik boasts a dazzling exit that brings to mind the immensity of the cosmos. Such is its appeal, it’s not entirely unknown to find people heading here not because they actually need to travel anywhere, but to simply tart up their Insta with an inter-galactic pic.

Metro Kopernik

GREY WOLF

NOWY