Warsaw Insider August 2023 #324

EUROPEAN BEST DESTINATION 2023

#324

INDEKS 334901

ISSN:1643-1723

Features:

Warsaw Bucket List – essential experiences – p. 3

By area: the summer’s key tourist hotspots – p. 16

Photography: the cult images of Hashtagalek – p. 48

Warsaw Uprising: city centre walk – p. 40

AUGUST 2023

Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

WELL, IN CASE YOU WEREN’T WITH US IN JULY, I can tell you that it got a little sweaty. And the bad news is, that was probably just a preview of what we’ve got to come. Brace yourself, for it looks like we’re going to melt. However, July was a preview in more ways than one. Last issue, we used our pages to bring you the very best of Warsaw’s social options – the city’s best summer bars, terraces, rooftops and meeting points: in case you missed that, you’ll find all those online.

This issue, we’ve decided to aim our barrels at those seeing the city from tourist eyes. As such, we’re pleased to bring you the ultimate sightseeing bucket list, as well as a carve-up of the area’s that visitors need to know. But if those pages have been aimed at the outsider, we’ve also got plenty for the insider, as well – for instance, an interview with Hashtagalek, arguably the city’s most original photographer, as well as a history walk around some of the key central sights associated with the Uprising. Hope you enjoy it, and see you next time.

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

Advisor

To get to the bottom of Warsaw’s heart and soul, it’s these essentials

you need to tick off…

BUC ET W

R A T H E S A W ST

K LI

Three years have passed since Covid ripped the heart out of Poland’s tourist sector, but having just about survived the lockdowns (remember them?), the country was hit by the impact of war next door. Only now, finally, are numbers returning to their pre-Armageddon level. With that in mind, we’ve suspended normal operations to instead present our bucket list for summer ’23, our red-hot rundown of the essential sights that every newcomer needs to know. Hung mainly around things to see, of course do remember that last issue’s epic rundown of the top summer bars and restaurants can be found online as part of our Best of Summer coverage (scan QR code below).

BOWIE MURAL

Commonly referred to as ‘the Polish Versailles’, the baroque masterpiece that is Wilanów Palace was built for King Jan III Sobieski – a man noted for saving Europe from Ottoman invasion at the 1683 Battle of Vienna. An indulgent exercise in monarchical bling, today its vast halls offer up a plethora of regal treasures. For many, the gardens are the true highlight – after, head to the adjoining lake to hire a boat to paddle the inky waters

When it comes to having the most murals (and most spectacular), it’s probably a toss-up between Praga, Wola and Ursynów. But the most celebrated, you could argue, is actually found up in Żoliborz. Depicting David Bowie, and painted shortly after his death, David Celek’s work on Marii Kazimiery 1 celebrates the singer’s unlikely association with the area – during a routine stopover at Warszawa Gdańska train station in 1976, the ‘thin white duke’ made the most of his spare few hours by walking up to Pl. Wilsona with Iggy Pop. Whilst there, he visited a record store and bought a few albums, including one by the Polish folk band Śląsk. Inspired by what he saw, the same year he wrote Warszawa, a brooding instrumental that featured on his album Low.

WILANÓW PALACE

PALACE OF CULTURE & SCIENCE

Described by many as “a tyrannical phallus”, Stalin’s gift to Warsaw is no longer the tallest building in the country, but it remains the most famous – and, arguably, the most loathed.

Formally opened in1955, everything about this Socialist Realist megalith is mind-boggling.

Home to 3,288 rooms spread out over 46 floors, standout features include the 30th floor viewing platform and the retro Museum of Technology. To really learn the secrets of the Palace of Culture though, join one of the tours that take you to its basements – it’s here you’ll find prowling cats, secret passages and Soviet banners left over from days yore.

PARTY WISŁA

Although not as wild as previous years due to the construction of a pedestrian bridge spanning the river, the boulevards that run on the left side of the Wisla can’t be beat for their dynamic sense of hedonism. Offering something for everyone, these include floating beer barges, swanky cocktail dens, cheesy open-air dance clubs and all manner of street food points. Come with no plan and an open mind – let the chaos suck you in.

WILD WISŁA

Warsaw’s youthful energy is one of its biggest selling points, but all that going out can take its toll – chill out by exploring the right side of the river. Rare as it is to find a major city with an undeveloped riverbank, discover an entire swathe ribboned with wooded paths and nature trails that gaze out across the water and onto the built-up metropolis beyond. A haven of wildlife, it feels totally unique for its escapist value.

NATIONAL STADIUM

Built as one of the host venues for Euro 2012, the National Stadium cuts quite a swathe when illuminated in its red-and-white colours at night. But don’t just admire it from afar –visit it as well. Concerts are held frequently (in August that means Depeche Mode and Imagine Dragons), but at other times visit for either the go-kart track outside or the stadium tours conducted daily: for info, see: pgenarodowy.pl.

UPRISING

The 1944 Warsaw Uprising changed everything – ending with the death of the city, the shadow of this 63-day insurgency still hangs heavy. Just how close it is to the hearts of locals can be seen every August 1st when, at 5 p.m., the city stops as one – a moment beautifully captured in the YouTube video titled There Is A City. For decades this armed struggle was ignored by the Communist authorities who condemned it as a bourgeois act, but this millennium has seen the balance corrected. Partially, the Rising Museum has been responsible for this and a visit here is essential. Organised in collaboration with the museum though are a host of August events, and these include a flotilla that will pass down the river on August 1st, moving mass song recitals of songs that were once banned, guided tours, runs, and screenings. For the lowdown, check the museum’s website at: 1944.pl.

TYTUS BRZOZOWSKI

You could talk forever about successful Polish artists, but few have attracted as much global attention as the Warsaw-based Tytus Brzozowski. First carving his name for surreal watercolours depicting the city, for the last few years a growing number of his works have come to decorate the walls of Warsaw in XL format. Directly celebrating the areas that they are found in, find them filled with historical nuggets that are offset by whimsical touches such as floating dice. Highly graphic and intriguing, his murals deserve a bucket list of their own. To track down the one pictured, look behind Próżna street.

VODKA MUSEUM

The national drink shouldn’t need an introduction, but it’s back story probably does – the Polish Vodka Museum in Praga’s Koneser development does exactly that, presenting the history of the drink in five slick thematic rooms that involve a striking display of salvaged decorative bottles and an interactive hall that allows visitors to feel the effects of a few too many by strapping on some VR goggles!

90 S WARSAW

VEGAN SQUARE MILE

The depth of Warsaw’s food revolution is reflected by its booming vegan scene. Rated by the HappyCow portal as the ninth most vegan-friendly city in the world, the offer is particularly strong in the south-central area where, hidden amid the surviving pre-war streets, all manner of vegan options thrive: for the very best, check our listings online.

After decades spent living in a controlled environment, the new freedoms offered by the 90s saw a temporary but collective loss of sanity in Poland – plunged headfirst into a bewildering capitalist world, Warsaw became a tapestry of colour, chaos and contrasts. Physically manifesting itself by way of the city’s architecture, the years that have followed have seen many of these buildings negatively judged resulting in the demolition of many. Fortunately, many of these landmarks still survive and you can plot your own tour of these beauties and beasts by checking the interactive map at: archiwumlat90.pl. For the record, we dig the silvery Nautilus on Nowogrodzka 9, the tacky spires that crown the apartment building on Twarda 44, the merger of new and old that is Powiśle’s Grey Villa on Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 47, and the sheer, overwhelming ugliness of the Atlas Tower (pictured above) on Jerzolimskie 123A – likened to a cross between a Red Bull can and a portable shower, it says much for the Dynasty aesthetics of the era!

SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE TOP SHUTTERSTOCK, BOTTOM MATEUSZ POTEMPSKI

MEDIA FOUNTAIN

You haven’t visited Warsaw just for her fountains, but while here a visit to the Friday / Saturday night multimedia fountain show should be considered mandatory. Now in its twelfth year, the show has updated its theme to celebrate Disney. Incorporating elements of Frozen, the Lion King and Moana, the audio-visual shows take place each weekend at 9.30 p.m. and draw around a million people per year. Arrive early to stake out a spot on the grassy embankment that leads down from the New Town, before enjoying a staggering display capable of displaying 16 million colours and firing 30,000 litres of water per minute. Spanning an area of 2,850 sq/m, the fountains are equally impressive outside of regular showtime.

ROOFTOPS

Rooftop bars are numerous, but for those that are saving their drinking head till later, other options exist for a quiet walk conducted at an altitude higher than the ground – by the riverfront, the Copernicus Science Centre is topped with a rooftop garden whose twisting paths are designed to mimic a volcanic landscape; practically next door, the BUW Library at Dobra 68/70 has a park filled with sculptural art, futuristic walkways and picturesque pergolas. Up north, combine a visit to the Jewish Cemetery with a trip to Forest, a fancy office development with a 2,100 sq/m garden that offers grandstand views of Warsaw in front.

FINNISH HOUSES

No Warsaw round-up can be complete without a mention of the Finnish Houses. So named because they were constructed using materials requisitioned from Finland as war reparations, this charming micro-district was built right after WWII to house architects and engineers working on Warsaw’s reconstruction. Bounded by Trasa Łazienkowska directly east, and Park Ujazdowski to the south, it’s the definition of cottage-core – amid the city’s hustle and clamour, discover a fairy tale world of little lanes, flourishing greenery, pops of public art and scenic timber chalets – dozens have survived the march of time, and many of these function as NGOs that welcome visitors.

POLIN

The Museum of the History of Polish Jews is a staggering work – architecturally, it wows with its immense glass form, whilst culturally it has engaged both locals and visitors alike with workshops and tours (this summer, check out their walking tours of Ghetto hiding spots). Currently, the temporary exhibition sheds light on the civilian experience during the 1943 Ghetto Uprising, but the museum’s biggest triumph has been on how it has focused on so many other aspects of Jewish life rather than just the Holocaust. Fully-geared towards international visitors of every age, its one of the most important institutions not just in Warsaw, but the entire country.

PLAC GRZYBOWSKI

When time is precious, a visit to Pl. Grzybowski allows you to say you’ve “done” Warsaw in one fell swoop. From the shiny plaza in the middle, all one needs to know is to turn on the heel to see the different complex layers that make up the city: from ghastly post-war blocks to stunning futuristic skyscrapers, within a stone’s throw you’ll be able to view the city only surviving pre-war synagogue, the soaring Palace of Culture, and the Renaissance-style All Saints’ Church. Down the road, check Próżna, a gentrified street of pre-war tenements that survived the destruction of the Warsaw Ghetto.

BY ED WIGHT, BOTTOM BY ALEX WEBBER

MUSEUM

The Neon Museum has no competition when it comes to the hippest museum in the city – filled with salvaged neon signs from the Communist era, its as appreciated as much by millennials looking to fill their Insta feed as it is by those drawn to the funky design ethos of the era. But Warsaw should also be thought of as a living museum, and spectacular neons – often painstakingly restored – now generously sprinkle the city. Of the more notable, check the volleyball player that shimmers over Pl. Konstytucji or the serpentine squiggle splashed over SMYK on the corner of Bracka and Marszalkowska.

FOOTBALL

A growing number of tourists are visiting Poland’s football stadiums – not so much for the football, but for the experience itself. Known for their colourful tifo arrangements and passionate backing, Polish fans are world class – even if the football is not. Playing in a fully-modernised arena, Legia are the biggest club in the country and the first choice for many football tourists, but don’t overlook the antique charms of Polonia, a club that is finally on the rise after several years in the doldrums.

If the Old Town’s square is famed for its mermaid statue, then think of that as an imposter for the original one, designed by Konstanty Hegel in 1855, sits inside the Museum of Warsaw.

MUSEUM OF WARSAW CHOPIN

The Museum of Warsaw in the Old Town Square attacks visitors with an almost bewildering array of exhibits displayed in a non-linear format. Although this approach can initially confuse, the abundance of strange items make it a joy – detail driven, just walking the stairs of this creaking collection of tenements is an adventure and concludes with the best view imaginable of the square down below.

Warsaw’s favourite son is celebrated in fitting style courtesy of the magical Chopin Museum on Tamka, a place that mixes interactive multimedia with traditional displays to brilliant effect. But aside from this, check the mural dedicated to him at Tamka 45A, or take a tour past sites related to his life by checking out the 15 musical benches positioned by core Chopin locations – these include the resting place of his heart, the Church of the Holy Cross. Don’t think you’ll see his ticker though, it lies encased inside a column in a crystal jar filled with cognac. Last, but definitely not least, it’s criminal to visit Warsaw and bypass the Sunday piano concerts that take place underneath the Chopin statue in Łazienki Park.

MERMAID

According to myth, Warsaw owes its very foundation to a mermaid – as such, for centuries she’s been adopted on the city’s coat of arms as the official mascot. Three statues celebrate her: one of the Markiewicz viaduct (itself a photogenic crossing bookended by twisting cobbled streets), and one in the Old Town Square. The most storied, though, stands by the Świętokrzyski Bridge. Cast in bronze, it’s alleged to be the last monument to be unveiled in Warsaw before the Nazi occupation. The sculptor, Ludwik Nitschow, used a 23-year-old poetess, Krystyna Krahelska, as his model. Serving as a medic in the Home Army, she was mortally wounded on the first day of the Uprising. The statue survived, albeit with 34 bullet dents that are visible to this day.

JOANNA RAJKOWSKA

Warsaw’s love for public art was born in 2002 when Joanna Rajkowska unveiled an artificial palm at the centre of Rondo de Gaulle’a. Scandalising the city at the time, it has become a much-loved feature of the city in the two decades since. Now, however, Rajkowska has returned with another installation, that being a giant egg on Plac Pięciu Rogó. Emitting hatching sounds, it’s already become a favourite. Rajkowska herself says: “It’s my intention that this surreal object places us in a completely different space-time. Specifically, the kind of space-time that birds know.”

PRL PAST

The shadow of communism looms as heavily over Warsaw as the war, but at the PRL Museum a lighter angle is taken to make the exploration of the past a far more light-hearted experience. Run as a private passion project, the extraordinary collection includes a diorama of a typical apartment, a canteen, and personal keepsakes that shed light on the absurdities of the period. Running also highly recommended tours of Communist Warsaw in an array of old bangers, it’s highly fitting that the museum look out on Pl. Konstytucji, a Socialist Realist showpiece square.

OLD TOWN

Let all roads lead to the Old Town Square. Celebrating its 70th anniversary of reconstruction in July of this year, the square is more than just a photogenic place in which to chill out with a beer whilst accordionists busk in the distance. It is, to all intents and purposes, a symbol of Warsaw’s indomitable spirit.

POSTER ART

Use your time in Warsaw to learn more about the oft-lauded Polish School of Poster. Back in the 50s and 60s, the government’s decision to ban Western film posters saw Polish artists come up with their own interpretations, and so a powerful new artistic movement was born. These retro gems can still be viewed, enjoyed and purchased alongside more contemporary creations at places such as the Polish Poster Gallery on Piwna 28/30 or Galeria Plakatu Polskiego inside the library building at Dobra 56/66.

CENTRE

POWIŚLE

Divide & Conquer: Warsaw by Area

Sorting the wheat from the chaff, join us as we pick out the highlights of the core areas that everyone needs to know…

WOLA

Born from the Industrial Revolution, Wola’s past is reflected via the old workers’ tenements and factories that fill the area. The last few years, however, have seen an aggressive bout of development that has seen its eastern and southern fringes returned to life thanks to fancy residential compounds and a fleet of new skyscrapers. With many found snuck down dusty streets of derelict housing, it’s here that the contrasts of modern Warsaw are at their most powerful. But its not just the business projects that have breathed life into this district, but also hubs such as Norblin and Browary, and its partially down to these that modern Wola bursts with a dynamic sense of energy – nowhere else does the past collide with the future in quite the same fashion.

Insider Recommends for Nightlife

Socialising in Wola has come to mean one of two choices: Norblin or Browary. In the latter, the biggest pull is a sunken plaza surrounded by eateries and nightspots, including the Browary Food Hall and upmarket Browary Warszawskie brewhouse – the house beer is ace. At Norblin, MOXO has become one of the city’s most exclusive party spots, whilst the street that cuts through the development outside possibly the busiest nightlife strip of the summer – we love the Piano Bar and the Uwaga pub.

The Industrial Age

The Museum of Wola and Norblin’s Museum of the Factory do a grand job of telling the backstory of this former factory district, but if you’re feeling adventurous sneak into the pair of disused gas tanks commonly called ‘the Wola Colosseum’ – from the inside, it feels like you’ve entered a ruined cathedral. After, peer into the Train Museum, specifically to the train cemetery outback – German armoured trains and the personal wagon of Poland’s first communist premier await.

Au Revoir But Not Goodbye

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WOLA

Art And About

With so much empty wall space on disused tenements and empty factories, it’s no wonder that Wola has embraced the mural fad. For our favourite, look no further than the steampunk-style work by Roch Urbaniak on Żelazna 22. For something unique, then the ‘stair mural’ at Browary Warszawa offers a fresh take on this medium.

Reach The Stars

Wola, at least its eastern flank, has replaced the city centre as Warsaw’s business district – you just need to look up to believe us. Peppered with skyscrapers, the loudest of all is the Varso Tower which, at 310metres, is now the EU’s tallest building. The viewing terrace won’t open till next year, but a drink on the deck of the 19th floor Ether bar in the NYX Hotel next door is by no means a poor alternative.

Do The History

The Rising Museum retells the story of the Warsaw Uprising in graphic, no-holds barred detail – at the end, the City of Ruins 3D film caps off the experience by taking you on a simulator flight of the destroyed city. Back outside, the tumbledown tenement at Waliców 14 (pictured right) is probably the city’s most famous ruin. Close by, the crossroads of Chłodna and Żelazna is home to an installation marking the overhead bridge that connected the Jewish ghettos. Neither should you miss the remains of the Ghetto wall (pictured centre) preserved at Złota 62.

The Unexpected

Wola has a few surprises up its sleeve and consider the Pinball Museum to be one of them. Set down a rough track, find a host of machines from the 80s and 90s that can be played for a modest set fee. Into the future, the ArtBox Experience in Norblin holds immersive multimedia exhibitions – currently, that means an absorbing array of digital works by impressionists like Monet, and a brilliant show that brings alive pre-war Warsaw.

MURANÓW

Levelled during the war in a bid to erase all traces of the Ghetto, the often unsung Muranów district offers more than a handful of key sights to justify a proper day of exploration. Taken on their own the 1950s aesthetics impress architecture buffs looking to snap examples of the Socialist Realist past, but look a little deeper and one will find a number of sights relating to the area’s tragic role in the Holocaust. Whereas the world-class POLIN museum acts as the primary draw, this is a district that contains so much more.

Park Life

Immaculately preened, weekends at Krasińskich Gardens draw groups of middle-class friends armed with picnics and their own set of boules – its particularly atmospheric when tango music bursts from the local dance school, itself found in a strange concave-roofed building smuggled beyond the treeline. Serene and scenic, the park’s highlights include remains of a barricade constructed during the Warsaw Uprising, a fountain that encourages visitors to run through its cooling sprays, and a Baroque era palace.

Insider Recommends Food & Drink

Muranów’s food and drink option have improved beyond measure. Behind Polin, find Tonka serving specialty coffee and what we rate as among the city’s best cakes. Andersa street is mined with options that include the uber-cool Fat White specialty coffee den and crazy beers from Craft Beer Muranów. On Jana Pawla, Jas I Maglosia bar is rated by locals. Heading down south, the pavilions between Solidanorsci and Nowolipki are filled with ethnic hole-in-the-wall joints like Delhi6, Queen Sheba, and Achi Achi

Wall Watchers

Though less obvious than the large-format murals found elsewhere in Warsaw, Muranów has no shortage of artworks decorating the arched passageways of its housing estates. Best of the bunch is Dawne Leszno (Solidarności 78), an intricate work that depicts lost local landmarks: the Femina theatre the Great Synagogue and the Pasażu Simonsa shopping emporium. Of the more traditional murals, favourites include one of a wartime messenger boy on the side of the primary school at Lewartowskiego 2 and Swansky’s tree of life on Nowolipki 11.

Good To Catch

Bookending the aforementioned park, find a monument dedicated to the women of the Warsaw Uprising and a set of hideously-coloured winged horses at one end (honouring the works of Polish writer Zbigniew Herbert), and at the other, a memorial commemorating Poland’s triumph at the Battle of Monte Cassino. Up the road, the monument dedicated to the Poles deported to Siberia at the height of Stalin’s terror is especially striking when lit at night.

The Jewish Trail

Muranów was the heart of the Jewish Ghetto, and although little survives landmarks include the monument marking the Umschlagplatz – the point from which thousands were packed into cattle wagons bound for Treblinka. As for the 1943 Ghetto Uprising, that was conducted close by from a shelter on Miła 18. Surrounded by Germans, it was here that the 24-yearold commander, Mordechai Anielewicz, killed himself along with 100 other defenders. After the war the bodies were not exhumed; instead, rubble was poured on the spot and visitors can now climb the knoll marking the area of the ‘bunker’.

Remembrance

Pawiak Prison still casts a shadow over Warsaw’s psyche. What was once a Tsarist jail was used by the Nazis to house 100,000 political prisoners. Around 37,000 were executed on-site. The gloomy cells can still be visited, though it is the mangled, preserved tree – decorated with death announcements – that makes the most impact.

Architecture

Rebuilt after the war in Socialist Realist style, the Muranów housing estate fascinates with its Orwellian style. This especially holds true walking Andersa street which was modelled on Berlin’s Karl-Marx Allee. Designed to house 15,000, landmarks include the archway above Kino Muranów, a quadrangular courtyard further up where a subway station was to be built, and the colonnaded walkways by Anielewicza. Nicknamed ‘Stalin’s Palaces’, people once travelled from around Warsaw to stare in wonder at these very blocks.

CENTRE

The centre is, of course, where everything happens. A little disorienting at first glance, the skyline hits you in a bang – the ominous presence of the Stalinist era Palace of Culture now softened by modern towers such as Daniel Liebeskind’s luxury apartment building Złota 44. Criss-crossed by the city’s main arterial roads – Jerozolimskie and Marszałkowska, an ambitious plan to make the centre more user-friendly is well underway and has already resulted in the launch of pedestrianised gathering points such as Plac Pięciu Rogów. As confusing and overwhelming as the centre can feel at times, it’s here where Warsaw’s big city vibe rings the loudest – despite that, chich, scenic streets such as Lwowska, Foksal and Mokotowska are as easy to find as those that are lined with post-war concrete carbuncles.

Insider Recommends

Luxury Living

For upmarket Polish design its essential one spends time window-shopping on Mokotowska, a street that brings to mind shades of Paris. Further up, Vitkac is the country’s most high-profile luxury department store and awash with celebs filling their bags with Gucci, Celine and Louis Vuitton. For one-in-a-million dining, Nuta is a thrill ride and the city’s only Michelin-starred restaurant. Finish in one of the lux hotels: standing opposite each other, the Raffles Europejski (guests: the Stones, Beyonce) faces off against the Bristol (guests: McCartney, Gates, JFK). The cocktail bars in both are a memorable splurge.

Hidden Wonders

The rich choices of the centre include Warsaw’s Michelin flagbearer Nuta, as well as the post-industrial food haven that is Hala Koszyki. But it also means a wealth of alt. vegan options (particularly in the vicinity of Poznańska, Krucza and Hoża) and craft beer pubs around Nowogrodzka and Chmielna. Combined, it’s around these aforementioned streets you’ll also find a heap of restaurants aimed at every income band. Although Nowy Świat is riddled with tourist traps, head just off there to the ‘pavilions’ to uncover dozens of lively dive bars. Onto clubbing, and Jasna / Mazowiecka streets have a few options such as Ritual and Jasna 1

Some of Warsaw’s quirkiest sights aren’t always obvious to the naked eye. Operating since 1905, the Fotoplastikon (Jerozolimskie 51) is the oldest stereoscopic theatre in Europe and remains one of city’s best-kept secrets. Then there’s the jaw-dropping interior of the Polytechnic, a stunning cloistered courtyard with a stained-glass ceiling hanging over the grand marble staircases. For some exploration, the ruins of the smashed ruins of the miniature park on Pl. Defilad are a sad but engaging site, while for another city secret negotiate the gate at Hoża 70 to find a cute, gabled building plopped inside a 19th century courtyard.

FOTOPLASTIKON

MOKOTOWSKA

Get Arty

The National Museum has entire galleries dedicated to the masters of Polish painting, and their remodelled Gallery of Ancient Art is a must for fans of Rome, Greece and Egypt. For retro flair though, the Gallery of Polish Design is a paean to Polish 20th century applied arts. Inside Ujazdowski Castle, the CSW currently has exhibitions by Yolik Nal, Claudia Clare and Sławomir Marzec. It is the Zachęta, however, where you’ll find the most controversial modern art shows.

Feel The Outdoors

Łazienki is the name all need to remember (see p. TK), but there’s also plenty of other green spaces to appreciate such as Saski Gardens, one of the first public parks in the world. Equally princely is Ujazdowski Park whose features include a humpbacked bridge and a green cabin containing a weighing scale once used by Charles de Gaulle. Behind Ujazdowski Castle, lose yourself in the huge Park Śmigłego-Rydza, a place built post-war by 15,000 kids.

The Beautiful South

South of Jerozolimskie is where the centre shows itself at its most charismatic. Filled with surviving and sometimes spectacular pre-war tenements, find a heap of atmospheric bars and restaurants on streets like Nowogrodzka, Poznańska and Hoża. And then, on Koszykowa, you have Hala Koszyki, Warsaw’s first food hall – a place visited, even, by Prince William! But inter-mingled with these, its on these streets you’ll find small boutiques, dusty bookstores, and upcoming design stores.

Follow The Route

The Royal Route begins in Wilanów and concludes at Old Town’s Royal Castle, but it is on Al. Ujazdowski that it really gathers steam. Joining it from Łazienki takes you past gorgeous stucco clad villas, many of which now serve as embassies. Passing through Pl. Trzech Krzyży –dominated by the domes form of St. Alexander’s, walk the bustling shopping street of Nowy Świat before joining onto Krakowskie Przedmieście, a prestigious street lined with buildings of national importance: the Presidential Palace, for one.

SASKI GARDENS

HOŻA 70

POLYTECHNIC

PRAGA

When benchmarking Warsaw’s progress, its commonplace to refer to its downtown skyscrapers as the most visible evidence of economic evolution. Arguably, however, it is the development of Praga that’s a more accurate yardstick. Here, after all, the unthinkable has happened. Once an area of desperate deprivation, today it’s become a poster child for regeneration. Despite the ongoing gentrification, Praga has retained a strong sense of personality with much of this originality owing to its wartime survival. Sometimes likened to Berlin’s Kreuzberg, that gritty but creative vibe softens considerably when heading south into the affluent sub-district of Saska Kępa.

FIGHT CLUB

Insider Recommends Food & Drink

For beautiful modern compositions hub.praga is one of Warsaw’s finest restaurants, but to really feel the spirit of the area then check out the divey shack housing Pyzy Flaki Gorące –the specialty is squishy dumplings served in a jar. For drinks, W Oparach Absurdu is a foggy den of iniquity where vodka shots are shared over the din of afro-beats and jazzy sounds.

Art Attack

First arising just over a decade back, Praga is fame first and foremost for its murals. Ranging from chipped and fraying classics to freshly painted newbies, they’re an expression of the district’s raw and artistic underbelly. Executed by leading global street artists, highlights include the Bird & Snake at Bliska 23, Connor Harrington’s Fight Club on Środkowa 17 and Woman’s Head at Kowieńska 21.

Go Green

Created in 1905, the English-style Park Skaryszewski is filled with ponds, scenic islands and secluded nooks. Points of interest include a memorial to the Polish victims of 9/11, sculptures by the likes of Henryk Kuna and Olga Niewska and a boulder unveiled by Elizabeth II marking the spot where a British plane crashed while dropping supplies to Polish insurgents in 1944.

Tick It Off

The Neon Museum is impossible not to love, crammed as it is with the giant, magical neons that once illuminated socialist Poland. The Vodka Museum has also won international acclaim for its slick presentation of the history of the drink. Though these two are the biggies, save time for the Praga Museum, a place whose displays capture the character of the area with aplomb.

Cult Courtyards

About 120 shrines await your discover around the battered, shadowy courtyards of Old Praga. Principally appearing during the occupation at a time when many churches were closed, each of these surviving throwbacks is unique and often embellished with fresh flowers, greenery, twinkly lights and occasionally kitsch and eccentric additions.

Modernist Marvels

The Saska Kępa district came to bloom in the inter-bellum; it was then that the area found itself erupting with modernist villas. Hidden down sedate side streets, the area around Obronców and Katowicka streets provides particularly rich pickings. After, sip something bubbly at Flaming on Francuska 2 – set in the Łepkowskich Villa, this pearl comes complete with an exterior spiral staircase that leads to a verdant garden.

PRAGA MUSEUM FLAMING ON FRANCUSKA

POWIŚLE

Whacked between the city center on one side and the river on the other, for years Powiśle had something of a reputation as an area to be skipped – not because of any deadly dangers it posed, but rather because it lacked any significant reason to linger. But where once this was a sleepy dormitory of faceless flats and failing factories today it has become the embodiment of modern Warsaw. Raw around the edges yet beating with creativity and dynamically developing by the minute, today it has come to reflect the very essence of the city.

Walk It

Ambling from the Bristol Hotel, Karowa street (featuring a brilliant Tetris-style apartment block at 18A), soon breaks into a helter skelter thrill of hairpin bends. At its climax, the cobbled Stanislawa Markiewicz Viaduct is the iconic mouth of Powiśle with its intricate trimmings making it a classic beauty. Opened in 1904, the crowning glory of this thoroughfare is a statue of a sword wielding mermaid.

Insider Recommends Food & Drink

Naturally, Elektrownia is the go-to with highlights including the Tex-Mex Blue Cactus and the cosmopolitan resto-bar Dock 19. Going further, Bez Gwiazdek is a pioneer, presenting modernized versions of regional Polish classics. For an Aperol and slice of Roman pizza, join the throng in front of Va Bene, or queue for Poland’s best gelato at Dal Dalla Gelateria. Finally, lose yourself in the arty atmosphere of Mlodsza Siostra bar.

Unmissable

It can’t be stressed what a special part the riverfront boulevard holds in Warsaw’s heart. Once a muddy mess, this stroll is most celebrated for its nightlife, and come dusk thousands drink not just in trendy bars like Paloma and Kalima, but on the terraced steps. Daytime reveals another side, and will take you past sculptures, fountains, hammocks and arty installations.

Feel Electric

Housed in a former power plant that once fed electricity to the Palace of Culture, the Elektrownia Powiśle is a supreme example of post-industrial development. At its heart lies a neon-lit food hall, while beyond swanky Polish concept stores fill the cathedral dimensions. In the evening, gather outside for drinks on the lawn, watch the dazzling fountain, or just chill in front of big-screen film projections.

Markiewicz Viaduct

Hit The Water

Ride the waves and cross the river courtesy of a trio of water trams that depart from jetties at Cypel Czerniakowski, Poniatowski Bridge and just beyond the multimedia fountain park. Free to use, they’ll take you to the other side. For a small fee, longer cruises leave from various points along the riverfront boulevards and promise great views of the city.

See This

Powiśle has three best-in-class attractions for tourists. Seen a white cube overlooking the river, the Museum on the Vistula presents modern art exhibitions that are often challenging, witty, provocative and amusing. Practically next door, the Copernicus Centre makes science fun with a family-friendly approach and fun interactive challenges. Finally, the Chopin museum delivers the minutiae of the composer’s life inside a striking palace.

Architectural Nugget

Reinvented following its wartime destruction, the Mariensztat sub-district was rebuilt as a prototype Socialist Realist settlement inspired by the small-town architecture of the 17th and 18th centuries. Often decorated with mosaics and murals, the pastel-coloured buildings of Warsaw’s first postwar housing project are arranged in an easily-navigable grid that makes for a pleasing and uncrowded walk that should finish at its square.

Copernicus Centre

OLD TOWN

Historic Centre

Levelled in 1944, the meticulous rebuilding of the Old Town fully deserves to be classed as one of the capital’s greatest ever achievements. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it presents itself in an atmospheric network of cobbled streets hemmed by tenements capped with sloping tiled roofs – no matter the season, it looks picture perfect. Bound by the Old Town walls, beyond these discover a rich offer of Baroque and Renaissance churches and institutions whose peeling bells add to the sense of magic – as do the half-hidden courtyards, ivy-encrusted walls and dusty antique stores that proliferate throughout.

The War

Left in a heap of rubble by the Germans, the destruction and subsequent rebuilding of Old Town is covered in precise detail by the wonderful Heritage Centre. Elsewhere, the statue of ‘the little insurgent’ by the Barbican walls honours the children that were killed. It is, though, the epic Warsaw Uprising monument on the fringe of the historic centre that is the grandest memorial, depicting fighters escaping down the sewers.

The Royal Treatment

Demolished by the Nazis, the Royal Castle was only rebuilt in 1984 – walking its gilded chambers, you’d never know. Admire the works of Rembrandt and Canaletto before heading back to admire the 22-metre Zygmunt’s Column, built to honour the man that shifted the royal family from Kraków to Warsaw. After, you can pay homage to previous monarchs, premiers and dignitaries by visiting the crypts of St. John’s Cathedral.

The Social Side

Eating in Old Town remains a perilous affair such are the number of tourist traps. Look a little beyond the Old Town walls instead to enjoy the swanky but historic confines of Kuk inside the Hotel Verte. For drinks, Bar & Books serve premium cocktails inside a book-lined carriage house, while for craft beer Same Krafty are an excellent choice.

Look Up… And Down

Some of the historic core’s greatest treasures are found looking up: from vintage semaphore signs marking out trade stores to the elaborate sgraffito adorning the former merchants’ houses. Having gazed up, stare down at all before you by climbing the 147 steps of the bell tower attached to St. Anne’s. The views of the old town rooftops are unimpeachable.

Uprising Monument

Zygmunt's Column

THE ROYAL CASTLE IN WARSAW

See It

The Museum of Warsaw is the first pick when it comes to sightseeing, telling as it does the story of the city. But there’s also a string of lesser-known places such as a Pharmaceutical Museum groaning with antique vessels and manuscripts as well as the Marie Curie Museum filled with the scientist’s equipment. The Doll House Museum is an enchanting miniature world with 150 gorgeously crafted exhibits.

Explore!

The side alleys contain the best secrets – the photogenic blue archway that spans Dawna could have been built with your Insta in mind. Likewise, the tight stairwell known as Kamienna Schodki where once Napoleon once stood gazing East. And then there’s pretty Kanonia, its centre decorated with a patched-up bell that fell from the Cathedral. After circling it three times with your finger on the top, it’s customary to make a wish.

And Don’t Forget…

New Town! Pass through the stout brick Barbican and head forward along Freta to discover the New Town, a place every bit as attractive as the Old Town – only far less dense in visitor numbers. The Gothic Church of the Visitation is magnificent and the nearby statue of Marie Curie offers relaxing views of the river ahead.

MARIE CURIE STATUE

PHARMACEUTICAL MUSEUM

King of The Green

Once the summer residence of Poland’s last regent, no park can compete with the 76-hectare Łazienki in terms of stories or imperial grandeur…

DON’T MISS

Smelted by the Germans because of its patriotic value, Wacław Szymanowski’s epic Chopin statue was reconstructed based on sketches found in the artist’s burned-out villa and unveiled in 1959. Since then, piano recitals have been held ever weekend of summer at noon and 4 p.m. every Sunday. Drawing thousands, the ‘piano in the park’ is an essential rite of passage.

WILD THINGS

You’ll never know who you might bump into whilst walking Łazienki’s meandering pathways, or what. Home to foxes, red squirrels, mallards, mandarin ducks and so forth, the park’s most famous residents are, however, the Indian peacocks that can found strutting around and fanning their feathers – it is these fantastical creatures that truly own the park, and they’re particularly

prevalent around the Orangery, a stunning structure built in the 18th century to house exotic plants and fruit trees.

IN THE NOW!

Known for organising a string of memorable art exhibitions, Łazienki’s management have not disappointed this year –running until early September, visit the Great Annexe building to be entranced by three paintings by Frida Kahlo.

Accompanying the exhibition are a series of photos and relics related to the artist’s life.

GET CULTURED

Łazienki bristles with classical attractions, and these include a sculpture gallery in the sunny halls of the Orangery, the charmingly old-fashioned Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship, and the postcard perfect Palace on the Isle – inside, view the former

summer living quarters of King Stanisław August as well as 140 paintings that once formed part of his collection. Back outside, al fresco cinema screenings are held every Tuesday evening in an amphitheatre built in 1793 to resemble a Greco-Roman ruin. On August 9th, meanwhile, gather here for one of their monthly jazz recitals.

WONDERFUL WANDERS

The biggest pleasure lies not in

ticking off sights and sounds, but simply letting your nose be your guide. Along the way, aimless ambles will take you past swooning statues of ancient Gods, elegant pavilions tucked away amid the greenery, guardhouses, and unexpected sights such as the Chinese Garden – first built in 1780, and later recreated in 2014, this picturesque refuge was modelled on Prince Kung’s mansion in Beijing.

HI, I’M A TOURIST

Slashed with canals and lakes, no self-respecting tourist can leave Łazienki without first stepping onto one of the genteel gondolas that glide over the waters. Moored by the Palace on the Isle, and crowned with colourful canvas canopies, expect to be charged around PLN 15 for a short journey –you’ll feel like you’re in a Hugh Grant romcom.

WALKING THE RISING

As has now become customary, 5 p.m. on August 1st will see the city pause for a minute’s silence to commemorate the anniversary of W-Hour, the moment that the Warsaw Uprising began. Taking place in 1944, the 63-day battle would ultimately result in the widespread destruction of the city and the deaths of over 200,000 civilians. Marking this, join us on a walking tour of some of the key sights in the city centre…

Pl. Piłsudskiego

Pl. Powstańców Chmielna

Foksal

Marszałkowska

Ogrod Saski

Mazowiecka Jasna Próżna

Krucza

SASKI & BRUHL PALACE Pl. Piłsudskiego

Of all of Warsaw’s war ruins, there is perhaps none more famed than the Saski Palace. Originally constructed in 1666, the palace was subsequently enlarged by Augustus II and Augustus III. Later, a young Chopin lived in a family apartment inside the palace, whilst the inter-war years saw it turned over to act as the home of Poland’s General Staff – it was here that German Enigma ciphers were first cracked. Standing in close proximity, the Bruhl Palace, meanwhile, served as the seat of Ludwig Fischer, Warsaw’s ruthless Nazi governor.

2 1

THE NATIONAL BANK Bielanska 10/12

In pre-war times, Poland’s National Bank stood on a chic street lined with upscale stores. When the Nazis rolled into town, the hulking building was transformed into the Occupation Bank of Issuance, and thanks to the number of ‘inside’ agents, the Polish underground was able to carry off a string of heists on cash-carrying convoys. It was one such raid on August 12th, 1943, that netted the Home Army a figure of PLN 105 million, making it the biggest such robbery in Nazi Europe.

Captured by the AK on August 3rd, 1944, it’s proximity to the Old Town made it a key defensive redoubt. Pummelled by the Germans, it swapped hands again on September 4th, but only after the last of its defenders managed to escape down the sewers. Once mooted as a possible location for the Rising Museum, today its deeply scarred carcass stands as a silent reminder of the war – look carefully, and you’ll even make out the door of safe hanging from one of the upper floors.

WALKING THE UPRISING

THE ARTISTS HOUSE Mazowiecka 11A

Known for its nightlife, it’s easy to overlook Mazowiecka’s more poignant side – but if you’re out carousing, then take a moment to check No. 11A, in particular the three-span, arcaded portico pockmarked with bullet holes – it’s a striking leftover from the war. As another point of interest, No. 10 lying opposite was the scene of one of the underground’s most daring assassinations – the 1941 execution of Igo Syma, a well-known actor who was unmasked as a collaborator.

PRUDENTIAL Powstańców Warszawy 9

Now the luxury Hotel Warszawa, when the Prudential was unveiled in 1933 it instantly became Europe’s second highest building. Home not just to upscale apartments and the Prudential insurance company but also to the country’s first TV transmitter, it was seized by insurgents on the first day of the Uprising. Its capture sent morale soaring: “When the

Polish flag was hoisted from it,” wrote historian Alexandra Richie, “people left their homes just to look at it, crying and laughing and spontaneously singing the national anthem.” Pounded relentlessly by 1,000 shells, it survived all the Nazis could throw at it, including a 2-ton round from the dreaded Karl-Gerat mortar and was only recaptured when the Home Army surrendered. To this day, this 66-metre Art Deco marvel is seen as a symbol of Warsaw’s will to fight.

ADRIA Moniuszki 8

Playing the swing sounds that defined the era, the Adria became the most famous restaurant of the inter-war period – featuring a 1,500 capacity basement dancefloor with a rotating, rubber floor to prevent dancers from slipping, its various attractions included a winter garden replete with cacti and exotic birds, trendy American cocktails, water fountains, air-conditioning and three house orchestras. During wartime it was marked for German use only before later falling into the hands of Polish insurgents. At the height of the Uprising, it housed not just canteen for combatants, but also a radio station on the upper floors. On August 18th a giant shell tore through the ceiling. Failing to detonate, it was only discovered years later in the 1960s during work on the basement.

5 4

PASTA TOWER Zielna 37

Commonly classified as Warsaw’s first skyscraper, when it was completed in 1908 the 11-storey PASTa was recognized as the tallest building in the whole of the Tsarist Empire – so impressed were they by its dimensions, it’s said that visiting out-of-towners would often stare up at the building with mouths agape as if hypnotized by its power.

Surrounded by Polish forces on the first day of the battle, a bitter 20-day siege ensued with the room-to-room fighting involving flamethrowers and hand-to-hand combat. Reports from the time speak of Nazi soldiers throwing themselves from the top floor to escape the bloodbath. Finally captured on August 22nd, its fall was a major coup for the Home Army. To this day, this former telecom centre houses the offices of the veterans’ association.

UNDER THE EAGLES

Jasna 1

Completed in 1917, the House

Under the Eagles is notable for the two eagles that cap its two front corners. Fighting raged for weeks around this area, and patched up bullet wounds can still be found on the stonework outside. Infamously, the car park in front was used as a makeshift graveyard for those killed in the battle. Years later it would again make the news, this time in 1964 when it was the scene of one of the biggest and most notorious robberies carried out during the Communist period. One guard was killed, and the crime remains unsolved leading some to speculate that it was planned by high-ranking officers working in the secret service.

MAKSYMILIAN HARCZYK TENEMENT

Jasna 10

Once the heart of Warsaw’s pre-war financial district, this beautiful tenement was built in 1903 for the property speculator Maksymilian Harczyk. On August 18th, 1944, dozens of people sought shelter from German gunfire by running into the courtyard only to realise that their exit was blocked. Thirty-five died in the inferno and their loss is commemorated by a plaque by the gateway. Recently renovated to its prewar best, it’s jarring to think that such a stunning building was once witness to unimaginable suffering.

WEDEL Szpitalna 8

The flagship of the Wedel chocolate empire, the ornate tenement at Szpitalna 8 is best-known for the magical neon sign that was designed by Leonetto Capiello – an Italian artist hailed as ‘the father of modern advertising’. Nearly 100years after it premiered, it remains as striking now as it did then. During wartime a secret radio station operated from the building, and it was also from here that a series of pictures were taken showing the brutal shelling of the nearby Prudential – arguably, these have come to be viewed as the most iconic images taken throughout the insurgency.

CAFÉ CRISTAL Bracka 16

Opened in 1912, and furnished in swish Art Nouveau style, Café Cristal was one of the most exclusive restaurants in Warsaw, its name coming from the crystal mirrors that filled its lavish interiors. During the Uprising, a temporary truce was organised here so as to allow both sides to retrieve their dead. Already, however, much of the building had been destroyed and 90 people executed outside – among them, the Cristal’s chef. Rebuilt and revived after the war as the HQ of Orbis, the neon globe on top is one of the city’s more recognisable sites. Next door, at the entrance of No. 18, find preserved doorbells and letter box holders as well as a display case featuring pictures of Bracka during the war.

BRACIA JABŁKOWSCY DEPARTMENT STORE Bracka 25

Founded in 1884, for decades this was seen as Poland’s equivalent of Harrods or Selfridges – it was to here that Warsaw’s rich flocked to don the latest fashions sourced from Paris. Plundered in the early days of the Uprising, it was later reopened and distributed food and clothing for free to those in need. A soup kitchen also functioned here, as did a factory producing ammo for the Home Army. Though shelled and gutted by fire, the structure held firm and the department store was back in business the following May.

Follow Me: Hashtagalek

Better-known under the nom de plume of Hashtagalek, Aleksander Malachowski’s approach remains as original now as it was when he first broke onto the scene. A triumph of style, detail, and bold, striking beauty, the images of Hashtagalek make him the one photographer that every Warsaw addict simply has to follow.

WI: You now photograph all over Poland, even Europe. With that in mind, how does Warsaw compare from a photographer’s perspective – what makes it special?

AM: Diversity! The contrasts found in Warsaw, the mixture of old and new, of modernism, postmodernism and pre-war, are unique.

What devices are you using nowadays?

Generally speaking, still both a smartphone and camera. Phone (a Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra) for daily use and capturing everything my eyes see, and the camera (a Canon EOS R) for commercial projects.

You started photographing about a decade back – what are the biggest lessons you’ve learned as a photographer?

Yeah, it really did start 10-yearsago, which... I guess, makes me feel like I’m getting a little old! Probably the biggest lesson has been understanding that things happen for a reason – that even when something seems to be going wrong, it can, eventually, lead to something good. Lesson No. 2 was the discovery that you can find inspiration everywhere, especially when photographing architecture. It’s beautiful to be able to combine discoveries from other fields of art, or even science, into your style.

As a model, how would you describe the character and personality of Warsaw?

Bold, brave, constantly evolving.

Are there any places you love shooting in Warsaw?

Since the very beginning of my photography journey I have always loved taking pictures in the Wola district. The mix of tenements, modernist apartment blocks and skyscrapers is special.

Is there anything you enjoy about photographing Warsaw in the summer?

The duration of the day(light). I’m keen on using natural light, especially when the sun is above as that creates interesting shadows.

Your work often explores the lesser-known corners of cities – what surprises have you found

PHOTOGRAPHY

around Warsaw?

One of the most shocking discoveries for me was finding out that the Ufficio Primo building has a stunning interior. Unfortunately, I’ve been unable to get there to this day. Does anybody work there? Send me a message! Apart from that I’m surprised by how many amazing places are hidden in Mokotów, the district where I spent most of my years.

How do you look for places to shoot?

Mostly using my beloved Google: both Search and Maps with its satellite and street view options. Sometimes I get messaged by friends or followers: “Hi Alek, I just saw a super cool staircase, you have to check it out!”

For you, what is ‘the perfect image’?

One that you are proud of. One that evokes emotions in you and brings back memories. At the end of the day, that’s what matters the most.

You’ve got a huge fanbase – what is about your work that has drawn so many people?

I think it’s a mix: people like my style, but also discovering unusual places in Poland with me, which I show through my eyes (and lens).

BIO:

Aleksander Małachowski is an architecture photographer, Master of Arts, a Samsung ambassador, and co-founder of the ProjektFotografia.pl course. He seeks to find the intersection between photography and the organised, physical world by means of geometry and symmetry shaped in a minimalist way. His portfolio includes shoots for Uber, Mastercard, ECHO Investment, PURO Hotels, Canon, ERGO Hestia and Skanska

For more of his work, see: instagram.com/hashtagalek

Summer

The Buzz

Discover the best culinary experiences in town with The Buzz! We have scoured the city to bring you the hottest restaurants, bars, and cafes. From trendy hotspots to hidden gems, our reviews will guide you to gastronomic bliss.

ESSENTIAL CHECK-IN

Fabryka Norblina

Żelazna 51/53

Without fail, the big winner of the summer is Norblin – or, more specifically, the outdoor passage that cuts through its heart. Lit overhead by a trail of blue lights, it’s become the glammest street in Warsaw with all manner of head-turners clip-clopping past venues such as the elite MOXO or the craft-minded Uwaga (hell, we’ve seen Kieran Culkin wandering through!). Packed in the evening, the atmosphere is squared out perfectly by the live music that frequently escapes from the Piano Bar.

THE MICHELIN STAR

Nuta

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Let Andrea Camastra take you into the realms of the spectacular at what we figure to be Poland’s finest dining experience. His dizzying takes on Polish classics simply are unbelievable in both taste and composition. Sophisticated but never ceremonial, this restaurant is a banger – and the only star holder in Warsaw.

FOR THE TASTING MENU

Rozbrat 20

Rozbrat 20

Fusing upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of, Rozbrat 20 is a Warsaw gastro landmark. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak, the frequently changing menu has a real playful inventiveness to it.

NEW WAVE

hub.praga

Jagiellońska 22

Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘Top Talent’ title at our Best of Warsaw awards. The tan, beige and white interior is embellished with moon-shaped mirrors and statement art, and is twinned with tiny a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturised works of art.

GARDEN COOL

Muzealna

Jerozolimskie 3

Hidden in the basement of the National Museum, this minimalistic space – decorated with applied artworks by Poland’s top design pioneers – opens out onto a shaded back garden in which towering trees shimmer overhead. This isolated green idyll is perfect to enjoy a seasonal menu of light, playful Polish food and natural wines.

OPEN TO BOOKINGS

Book a table at any time of day or night, even when the restaurant is closed.

The app and platform for table reservations. Easy and convenient to use, with the ability to send invitations to friends, reminders, an overview of all reservations, and an active map with restaurants in the area where tables can be reserved.

The Summer Buzz

THE BLOGGERS FAVE

Bez Gwiazdek

Wiślana 8

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast.

CASUAL SCENE

Bibenda

Nowogrodzka 10

With no reservations accepted, Bibenda’s enduring popularity ensures that queues often build at the entrance. The hassle is worth it to enjoy bio wines, craft cocktails and an interesting meat-free menu in a warm, busy interior that retains the building’s pre-war heritage. Delve deeper for a courtyard featuring a slanted canopy, crates of flowering herbs and a twisty tree.

STAR SUSHI

Noriko

Mińska 45

With just eight seats and one sitting per day, reservations are mandatory. Priced PLN 750 per head, the cost mirrors what many are calling the most exceptional sushi experience the country has ever seen – we’ll bring you our full review next issue.

NEIGHBOURHOOD GREEK

Mr. Greek Souvlaki

Londyńska 16

Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is – head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reigns in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits we;; with the meaty skewers.

SEAFOOD ADVENTURES

Tuna

Elektryczna 2

Resembling the scales of a fish, Tuna’s core decorative element are 18,000 tuna cans that sheathe the walls. Smartly appointed in dark metallic colors, visit for an exhilarating menu that includes salmon jerky, tuna sausages, an elaborately reconstructed dorada tail and the best-selling chili con tuna. It’s an ecstasy of tastes.

SOUTH AMERICAN FLAIR

Ceviche Bar

Twarda 4

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is naturally the default order, and here its served in around five different forms. The happening, cosmopolitan ambience is reflected by sublime cocktails.

VEGAN BRUNCH

Lychees

Bielańska 1

From the creators of Peaches comes this brill brunch spot. Design-wise, the pair’s taste for cool is unmissable and surmised by a wall of glazed ceramic tiles from Holland’s GBD.studio. The experimental dishes include a great congee served with cashew butter glazed in muscovado, salsa macha, salty angel wings, roasted shallot, and a topping of roasted soybean sprinkles.

UNFORGETTABLE GELATO

Dal Dalla Gelato

Leszczyńska 4

Luca Dalla Costa mixes Venetian techniques with the freshest ingredients to create a magic world where weaknesses don’t exist – at least, we haven’t found any. Even making their own savoiardi biscuits for their tiramisu

ice cream, the passion is only beaten by the quality of the end product.

SUNSET PINTS

Cuda Na Kiju

Nowy Świat 6/12

Slotted inside a glass prism hidden within the megastructure that once housed the Communist Party headquarters, this contemporary-minded space (15 taps, pinball machines and a super-cool spirally staircase) is capable of drawing hundreds when the warm weather hits. With the first hint of sun, out come the deckchairs to offer ringside seats of the setting sun.

THE HEART OF POLSKI CRAFT

Kufle i Kapsle

Nowogrodzka 25Respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage, the brick interiors are thick with noise, clamour and the reassuring smells of last year’s party. On colder nights, make your way to the back to discover an intimate space sprinkled with vintage armchairs and wonky old lamps set at a natural tilt. The beers are among the most radical in Warsaw.

POLISH SUPER BREWS

Pinta

Chmielna 7/9

Bearing the hallmarks of the previous tenant (Mikkeller), the minimal but primrose-coloured Scandi-design keeps the attention on the beer which comes, mainly, from the namesake brewery. Considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft adventure, the beers are brilliant and fairly priced.

NATURAL WINES

Rascal

Moliera 6

Reputedly Europe’s largest bar specialising in natural wines, this former canteen for ballet dancers is one of the hottest addresses in town – a point not lost on

the Vogue staffers encamped here. Crowned with a veneered, marble-topped bar, the interior is a chic work that’s outdone only by the Insta-friendly garden.

CASUAL WINEY EVENINGS

Niewinność

Zgoda 5

Completely lacking in that frosty formality that defines many wine spots, the welcome here has more in line with entering your favourite local bar. Casual and comfy but never short of chic, it looks more like a trendy loft apartment with its communal table, poster art and zaps of neon.

FUN-FLIRTY NIGHTS

Reginabar

Koszykowa 1

A wacky amalgam of New York’s Little Italy and China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks. Lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde: just check out that glittery disco ball.

VENETIAN ALLURE

Va Bene Cicchetti

Waryńskiego 9C

Rich in golds and operatic reds, the stylish Venetian theme includes table legs painted in gondola stripes and a signature mural made from mirrored shards. Drinks are works of art. Tailored around Italian ingredients, these include six interpretations of the negroni and a concise rollcall of Prosecco and Martini-based drinks.

THE ATMOSPHERE

Beirut & Kraken

Poznańska 12

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (sandbags, ammo boxes…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska

contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken. Evenings dissolve into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.

SUMMER CLASSIC

Wozownia

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

Filled with waifish girls knocking

back the Prosecco and tanned city boys in tight-fitting trousers, the courtyard is festooned with herby plants and leads to a 200-year-old carriage house that houses a bar selling classic summer cocktails.

LATE NIGHTER

Republica San Escobar

Poznańska 7

Lacking airs and graces, it’s a place where fun rules the roost. Tiny in size, find an interior filled

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE

Rondo Daszyńskiego 2 , Warsaw +48 22 377 38 01 novawola@ihg.com novawola.com

The Summer Buzz

HOW’S THIS FOR PROGRESS –where once the upper stretch of Jana Pawła was notorious for its grimy peep shows, today its pavilions are celebrated as the home of a thriving ethnic food scene. Running the gamut from Japanese to Mexican, Indian to Tibetan, the wealth of options are made all the better for their budget-minded, street food style.

Who shines the brightest out of all of these choices is the topic of fierce dispute, but Queen Sheba are most certainly up there. Opened around seven months ago, this cramped, little nook presents itself in a cheerful manner, decorated as it is with chunky woods and Ethiopian flags, fabrics and assorted trinkets – sincere and warm in its welcome, the casual sense of intimacy lends itself well to a place where good vibes seep from every corner.

Long Live The Queen

Helping the mood, of course, are three Ethiopian lagers as well as a deliciously thick honey wine served in a traditional berele – a curious-looking vessel that wouldn’t be out of place in an alchemist’s studio. It is the food though that is the principal standout, served on teff-based injera bread (think of a giant pancake) and then scooped up by hand. Yes, this soon descends into a bit of a mess, but that’s part of the joy.

Featuring such openers as the samosa-style sambusas and karya sing (finely chopped tomatoes, onion and garlic stuffed inside a pepper), these lead onto mains such as cubes of beef with hot pepper paste or stewed lentils in a spicy berbere sauce. But for the best introduction of all, then look no further than the mixed sharing platters – priced at PLN 120 for two, the choice falls to you to pick out four meat dishes and one vegan that will then arrive in a big heap on an XL-sized injera. A feast in the truest sense, it’s impossible not to feel anything but love for this exotic standout.

The Ethiopian restaurant taking Warsaw by storm…

Queen Sheba Jana Pawła II 45A, queensheba-ethiopianrestaurant.com

with corrugated iron sheets, zappy neons, chunky woods and bike pedals on the footrests. The fun-loving spirits is irresistible, and the tight dimensions mean the party often spills onto the terrace outside.

FOR THE MUSIC

Młodsza Siostra

Dobra 14/16

Known for its alternative music policy, the crowd is sourced straight from the local Academy of Fine Arts. With temperatures rising, sit on the wooden decking outside. Now the trees and vegetation are in bloom, the scrappy backdrop of bike repair garages softens to take on the vibe found in the shadowy courtyards of Berlin and Budapest.

OUTDOOR STAR

Pokój na lato

Grzybowska 79

Climb the wooden stairs and you enter a world cut off from outside forces: stepping into various light, timber chambers, visitors traipse past a plant ‘hotel’, wicker bubble seats dangling from ropes, suspended plant pots and different corners in which to chill.

FOR FUNKY FRIDAYS

Grace

Krucza 16/22

Split into different areas, each with its own dark and voluptuous colour scheme, the sensual, velvety Grace mixes an air of 80s excess with a design that verges on bordello chic. Operating as a late night cocktail spot, the drinks are highly affordable despite the premium clientele.

SKY HIGH SIPS

Ether

Chmielna 71 (NYX Hotel)

Positioned so you catch the best of Warsaw’s peachy sunsets falling over the Central Business District, watching the night slide

in can be an almost empowering experience from this 19th floor bar. Cocktail bills are easily accrued when enjoying one of their openair concerts, but whilst this place packs out easily, secluded corners can usually be uncovered.

COFFEE OF LEGEND

Stor

Tamka 33 / Bracka 18

For many there is no better café anywhere in Poland than Stor’s original on Tamka. When the sunlight slopes in through the window, there are few finer feelings than idling away in this plant festooned refuge. Famed for their glorious coffee and detail-driven approach, recognition should also be handed to their devotion to local causes and zero waste philosophy.

CHAMPION BREWS

Forum

Elektoralna 11

Forum has it all: a fashionably frayed interior, a friendly dog nuzzling around (hi Apollo!), and a client base that expects nothing but the best – and at Forum, that’s exactly what they get. Marketing themselves as “the home of the Polish Aeropress and Polish Brewers’ Cup Champions”, these accolades say everything there is to know.

STREET FOOD ACE

Nocny Market

Towarowa 3

Nocny Market brings together dozens of food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands. More than just an ultra-fun collection of ethnic cookup spots, the Nocny Market has become the place to get tattooed in front of hollering strangers, stock up on artisan donuts or swag some crazy-patterned Warsaw-themed socks. That this happens on a disused train platform lit by funky strips of neon lends this weekend market-party a unique energy.

WELCOME TO GREECE!

For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

The Summer Buzz

Summer Lovin’

Nailing the August vibe to a tee, the Emerald Summer Garden & Lounge is the outdoor experience everyone needs to know…

ange and white grapefruit. You eat it with your eyes first, before losing yourself in a big bang of freshness.

Such mastery continues with the mains: for instance, in the form of a filet mignon served with a rich demi-glace and fire-roasted potatoes – fine steaks are easily found nowadays in Warsaw but have no doubt that the cows cooked in Emerald are up there with the best. For the best-seller, however, look no further than the potato dumplings served in a muddle of greens, truffle and parmigiano Reggiano.

Finally, dessert, and prepare yourself for a joy of homemade walnut ice cream and mango sorbet – like everything else, it is a paean to a kitchen whose competence and confidence is reflected by food filled with bright, bold tastes. Created by Marcin Szkopek, this menu is a talented tribute not just to the Polish countryside ingredients this chef so loves, but also heavily sprinkled with references and inspirations from the Balkans and Asia – it tries to do a lot, and succeeds.

DRINKS

THE PLACE

Although plans are afoot to introduce an indoor dining area in the coming weeks, as things stand the Emerald Summer Garden is exactly just that: an elegant outdoor terrace set in the shade of upmarket Foksal street. Festooned with plants and trimmings supplied by Moet, there’s nothing too overthe-top here, just that underlying feeling of quiet luxury: something underscored by the grand, century-old tenement building that looms overhead.

FOOD

The epitome of light summer tastes, the seasonal menu is a creative celebration of all that’s good with the world. Such is the quality, it should be compulsory to start with the Kashubian cheeses before moving on to starters such as the tiger prawns served with raspberry powder, mango, chorizo, shallots, fresh mint and a complex butter-wine sauce. Every bit as exquisite, is the Instagrammable roasted unagi eel salad with blood or-

Cocktails are also a strong suit and are every bit as precisely crafted as the food. Feeling pleasingly floral and fragrant for the summer, the must-try is the Emerald City, a finely tuned mix of Bombay gin, St. Germain, elderflower syrup, lime juice, egg white and thyme. Presented as a signature of the house, it’s a sophisticated summer sip just primed for the weather. The same, though, can be said of the Belvedere Rose Sour, a feminine-looking drink fixed from Belvedere, rose water, rose syrup, lime juice, egg white, and hibiscus. In the blazing heat of August, there can’t be many better thirst quenchers.

NEED TO KNOW

At Emerald the good news just keeps on coming – serving food until 1 a.m. on weekends, the long hours negate the need for your sub-standard, post-pub kebab. Given its status as a major European capital, Warsaw’s late night food scene can be crushingly disappointing, so the opening of Emerald is something of a game-changer.

PRICE POINTS

The price tags are a surprise and compare well against the city centre – cocktails average out at PLN 40, a snip when marked against the city’s A-Class drinking dens. As for food, factor in around PLN 39 for starters and PLN 29 for dessert. Mains can be had from PLN 49 with prices peaking at PLN 129 for the filet mignon.

Emerald Summer Garden & Lounge Foksal 19, chatonwarsaw.com

The Summer Buzz

Hoppy Hour

For a weekend glug, more and more craft fans are aiming west for the Artezan tap room in the town of Błonie…

EVER WONDERED what Warsaw’s beer geeks get up to in the summer? It goes without saying, for the majority the plan remains the same, that being to haunt streets like Nowogrodzka and the tap bars around there. But for a growing minority, the last few years have presented a different option entirely, one that involves either a 50-minute commuter train or a leisurely 2-hour bike ride to the western satellite town of Błonie.

Browar Artezan Tap Room

Grodzka 15 (Błonie), artezan.pl

pedalling out and then getting the return train back. But why Błonie in the first place? The answer is easy: for some of the best beer in Poland. Home to Browar Artezan, one of the country’s leading craft breweries, for the past few years the lads here have opened a summer-only bar set within a converted shipping container-style cabin.

overhead bulbs, or to a huge garden area to slump on a deckchair in the shade of an apple tree. As peaceful escapes go, it’s a spectacular way to spend an afternoon.

In fact, where the latter option is involved, it’s now common to find group rides taking place organised by FB pages like Wolny Kraft. The premise is simple: meet at a designated city centre point before

Sparingly set out with a funky turquoise neon and a sofa, it’s hard to manoeuvre what with the number of beer crates and boxes and are splayed all around. But why would you want to stick indoors in the first place. Armed with a fresh beer poured from one of the eight or so taps, instead retreat to an outdoor deck illuminated by

Although highly temporary in its style, facilities aren’t bad at all – you’ll be using a portaloo, but it’s in far better shape than many of the toilets found in more permanent bars. And as for the beer, that’s just spectacular –and includes Artezan mainstays such as their legendary Pacific pale ale, as well as the latest premiers: on our trip, the Ten Collab, a cherry and plum marzipan cake pastry sour brewed in cahoots with Kufle i Kapsle. For something completely different this August, it’s just about the best weekend option (note: they open only on Friday and Saturday) a craft nerd could wish for.

INSIDER'S GUIDE

For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

COMMUNITY HUBS & FOOD HALLS

NORBLIN FACTORY

ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl

In August

OVERVIEW

Opened on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. Representing 200-years of history, the two hectare site is riddled with over 50 leftovers from the Industrial Revolution and these are set against attractions such as the luxury Kinogram cinema (champagne vending machines!), the immersive Art Box Experience, the only Apple Museum in the country (as in the tech brand, not the fruit), a factory museum and the Smart Kids Planet – a 1,600 sq/m project with nine zones that aim to promote logical thinking, healthy eating, motor functions, perception and creative thinking.

F&B

Warsaw’s largest food hall (23 food points and five bars!) has been intelligently designed so as to retain intimacy while never ceasing to remind visitors as to its diverse range of choices – the so-called ‘Asian district’ scores particularly highly. In standalone terms, top marks go to the elegant Piano Bar, the eclectic Uwaga craft beer haven, the swanky MOXO bar-club crossover, the Tex Mex of Blue Cactus and the newly-launched Middle Eastern emporium that is Amar Beirut. Finally, check into the Bio Bazar, a farmers’ market with a reputation that extends nationwide.

JOIN THE CLUB

Everyone comments on the atmosphere that Norblin have created, and a large slice of credit belongs to the live music acts that perform every Friday, Saturday and Sunday – for a full list of open-air gigs, check their FB. But there’s more –historical tours of the factory are also conducted throughout the day every Tuesday and Thursday and take in various machines and contraptions related to the history of the site. Again, for specific times and details, check their social accounts.

Debuting in February, frequent visitors can now register to join the Norblin Factory Club, an app that will give members access to exclusive offers, promotions and discounts. Free to download, it’s been designed with guests, tenants and suppliers in mind.

HALA KOSZYKI

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

OVERVIEW

Revolutionizing Warsaw’s food and drink scene, the 2016 reopening of Koszyki can be considered one of the watershed moments in the city’s gastro timeline. Considered the grande dame of food halls, the brick and wrought iron interiors of this spot look beautiful with the F&B offer split between standalone restaurants such as the fancy Warszawski Sen to vendors like the fist-bumping, burrito boys at Gringo. For craft beer and grilled sausages then Kiełba w Gębie don’t put a foot wrong, though the biggest lines are usually reserved for Soul Food Burgers. The open-all-hours ĆMA is a legend in its own lifetime, whilst The Upper Deck has won credit for its cocktails. Gluing it all together, the Central Bar remains the top check-in.

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Grzybowska 58, browarywarszawskie.com.pl

OVERVIEW

Billing itself as a premium food hall, the centrepiece of Browary contrasts well against Warsaw’s other offers. Occupying a beautifully lit vaulted chamber that was once used to store beer, this magnificently formed space presents an offer based around a “quality over quantity” with twelve concepts vying for attention. Pertinently, the wider offer has also cemented itself into Warsaw’s conscience thanks to addresses such as Robert Lewandowski’s Nine’s sports bar, a flagship brewery-restaurant, the ever popular Balkan eatery Munja, and Baila – a stunning live entertainment emporium.

In August

Taking place every Thursday at 8 p.m., swing by Koszyki to find your Latin groove at their weekly salsa nights. But Koszyki, first and foremost, are known for their highbrow events, and for that the ‘Art & Mind’ evening on the 8th is a prime example. From 9 p.m. on the mezzanine, enjoy the sounds of soprano Magdalena Lucja and pianist Gabriela Lasota-Cierniak whilst Patrycja Dańków-Bil paints live inspired by the music.

BACK STORY

Established in 1846, the Haberbusch & Schiele brewery that once occupied this plot was the largest such plant in the entire Kingdom of Poland. Later also producing Coca Cola under American license, the complex later fell into complete dereliction. Opened last year after seven-years of work, the resulting Browary Warszawskie has utilized these surviving elements and set them against a swanky backdrop of freshly mapped streets and immaculate new build that feels contextually suited to the district.

In August

Once again, Browary are keeping their cards close to their chest when it comes to forthcoming events, but we’ve already seen them nail the outdoor cinema experience courtesy of their Wednesday and Sunday night screenings held at 9.30 p.m.

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

OVERVIEW

Built in 1897, from its early inception Koneser was designed with one duty in mind: to produce vodka. Nationalized after WWII, Koneser only finished producing vodka in 2007; by that time, the plant was in dire need of care and attention and its Neo Gothic architectural details looked destined to rot and die. But not so. Subjected to a seven-year restoration process, it reopened

in 2018 as a mixed-use project containing cultural sites, F&B outlets, swanky offices and loft-style apartments – no other investment has had a bigger impact on Praga’s overdue regeneration than Koneser. Culturally, it’s also done much thanks to the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art and temporary exhibitions such as Banksy in 2021.

F&B

For foodies, the lynchpin that holds the food and drink offer together is Koneser Grill. Belonging to the portfolio of Ferment Group (owners and creators of Rozbrat

In August

As per usual, it’s Koneser that lead the field when it comes to events, and in August that means a car exhibition on the 5th, outdoor boogie, swing and rock’n’roll dances every weekend at 4 p.m., and yoga in the plaza on the 12th at 11 a.m. For sure there will be much more, so keep an eye on their soc med channels for the latest developments.

20, Butchery & Wine and a string of other essential eateries), enjoy a sophisticated, meat-centric menu amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colours. Then, you’ve got the small matter of Bombaj Masala and its Indian street bites served in eclectic surrounds, and newbies such as Setki Powodów, a vibrant, fun space with on-tap cocktails, crazy shots and a menu devised by Insider favourite Michał Bryś and Spółdzielnia, a casual eatery that’s already earned mythical status in Łódź.

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

OVERVIEW

Initially completed in 1904 to serve as Warsaw’s primary source of electricity, Elektrownia appears with frequency in local history books – contested during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (shrapnel holes still dent the building

In August

Elektrownia’s beautiful outdoor area has proved a hit for fans of open-air cinema –every Sunday at 11 a.m. find films for kids being played. For adults, gather on the deckchairs at 7.30 p.m. every Tuesday for films selected from the lineup of Poland’s largest film fest, Millennium Docs Against Gravity. More events are expected, so keep updated by checking their socials closer to the time.

Get The App!

Designed to make your life a whole lot easier, download the Food Hall app from Elektrownia’s website to order your favourite dishes in advance from the 13 F&B concepts presented in the food hall.

at intervals), it later powered the Palace of Culture – to this day, the switchboard survives. Relaunched in 2020, the blended approach includes an an exclusive top floor beauty hall filled with cutting edge cosmetic and beauty therapy solutions (Anna Lewandowska has been spotted here!), and a retail offer than tends to shirk the mainstream to instead slant in on contemporary Polish design, upscale vintage, niche brands and established local talent.

F&B

Lit by a sea of neon, the food hall is a street food mecca with star turns provided by Philly’s Finest Cheesesteak and Uki Uki Kikuya. Bracketed either side by two flagship bars, the smoothness of this operation can’t be questioned. But this is all complemented by standalone restaurant project such as the chic and design-minded Dock 19 and legendary, fun-fuelled Blue Cactus.

WARS SAWA JUNIOR

ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna)

GOOD TO KNOW

Standing all but in the shadow of the Palace of Culture, WARS SAWA JUNIOR cuts a familiar sight to all. Conveniently connected by tram, bus, metro and even bicycle and scooter, today it presents the slick and shining face of modern Warsaw. But then, WARS SAWA JUNIOR has always been at the forefront of Warsaw retail. Opened as one of the first shopping centres in Poland, to this day it enjoys unflagging popularity and has again been embraced by the Warsaw public following an ambitious revival that has bordered on reinvention.

TO DO

Shopping is the name of the game with highlights including the largest adidas store in Poland as well as the only Uniqlo in the country. Other brands and stores present include Mango, Rituals, Zara, TK Maxx

and H&M. On the food front, the central location of WARS SAWA JUNIOR also benefits visitors –consider the city your salon with dozens of restaurants of every price and persuasion found within a few minutes walk.

DESIGNER OUTLET WARSZAWA

Puławska 42E, Piaseczno designeroutletwarszawa.pl

For a look that steals the summer, Designer Outlet Warszawa offers a series of stores that bring to you some of the world’s top designers at discounted prices: and by that, we’re talking about reductions that range from 30% to a whopping 70%. Choose from over 130 brands in a beautiful complex that was built to mimic the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town. Found south of the city just 30-minutes from the centre (and 20-minutes from the airport), it’s quite an experience to walk such a strikingly pretty project whilst browsing for premium, cut-price brands.

TOP BRANDS

Armani, Boss, Furla, KARL LAGERFELD, Liu Jo, Michael Kors, Pinko, Polo Ralph Lauren, Swarovski

PREPARE YOUR BODY, AND MIND, FOR THE SUMMER!

We specialize in wellness treatments. Our salons in Bemowo and the Polonia Palace Hotel offer a full range of treatments and massages that will put you in a tranquil mood, helping to energize and rebalance your mind, spirit and body. Meeting the expectations of even the most demanding of clients, our staff will help you regenerate through their variety of soothing treatments. Using only exclusive and ecological cosmetic brands, we invite you to enjoy Body & Mind Massage by Hanka Kraszczyńska at the Polonia Palace Hotel.

MAKE A SPLASH

For the feeling of endless summer, at Suntago the sun never sets…

Opened, quite literally, just weeks before the first lockdown, Suntago have bounced back from this inauspicious beginning to become one of Poland’s biggest and best-known tourist attractions – a status befitting of a place billed as Europe’s largest water park. And yes, water is the central element with this 67,000 sq/m tropical haven making the experience all the more convincing with hundreds of palms and plants sourced from Florida, Malaysia and beyond. Yep, just 45-minutes from downtown Warsaw, idle in tropical temperatures under a stunning glass canopy before hitting features such as the wave pool or drifting down a ‘river of adventures’ lined with treasure chests and stalactites – and that’s before experiencing the likes of the two ‘Dead Sea’ brine pools.

Irresistible as these attractions may seem, they pale compared against the thirty plus slides, each with their own revealing title: Neon Torpedo, Mad Crocodile, Green Mamba and Jaw Drop (think vertical descent!). Boasting also Europe’s longest slide, as well as host of wellness facilities, VIP packages, restaurants, a sauna complex and, even, accommodation, it’s little wonder that Suntago has become a bi-word for adventure. Note: to skip the queue at the start, buy tickets in advance online.

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Suntago Park of Poland

parkofpoland.com

SUMMER VIBES AT CHATON WARSAW

The world’s entertainment capitals have been conquered by the concept of the ‘Dinner Show’, that heady mix of clubbing, theatre and fine food…

Ibiza, Barcelona, Miami, Los Angeles, Shanghai, Dubai, and Paris are all renowned for venues that have redefined nightlife. Now, it’s Warsaw’s hour!

GLANCE BACK

Inside a century-old historical building that remembers the banquets and receptions of yesteryear, there is a new entertainment venue unlike any other in this region of Europe. The Chaton Dinner Show & Club has quickly become a favourite destination for business people, celebrities and international guests.

PREMIERE

The premiere ‘Summer Vibes’ Dinner Show, which opened the summer season at Chaton, attracted many celebrities, journalists, opinion leaders and business people. Foksal 19 saw the presence of personalities such as Grażyna Wolszczak, Joanna Racewicz, Joanna Senyszyn, Monika Richardson, Dorota Kośmicka, Zofia Czernicka, Michał Czernecki, Laura Samojłowicz, Anna Męczyńska, Barbara Sarah Szczypiór, Jola Czaja, Magdalena Antosiewicz and many others.  The artistic programme,

performed by top dancers, acrobats and vocalists, was met with enthusiastic applause. The special guest of the evening was the phenomenal Marzena Ugorna, whose voice and stage charisma delighted the audience. The new show at Chaton Warsaw is the essence of summer with the energetic choreography and carefully selected musical repertoire quickly earning a reputation as one of the capital’s biggest summer attractions.

Top, award-winning choreographers Tina Papazyan and Adam Beta created an unforgettable dance spectacle that enthralled the audience with its energy, magic and quality.

SEE FOR YOURSELF

If you are looking for something more than a simple night out, if you crave new experiences and wish to immerse yourself in the atmosphere of a magical spectacle then Chaton Warsaw is a place that will live long in your memory.

For more information visit www.ChatonWarsaw.com

FRIDA & FRIDITA

More than just an exhibition, the Royal Łazienki Museum allows children to unleash their inner Frida…

Already amassing widespread praise, ‘The Colour of Life. Frida Kahlo’ exhibition at the Royal Łazienki Museum has also won praise for involving the younger generation via a creative space titled ‘Frida and Fridita’. Found inside the Old Guardhouse, and directly inspired by the life and works of the Mexican artist, it’s in here that families and children can experience art through the medium of play.

First introducing visitors to Fridita, a future painter, a girl with a rich imagination and curious about both life and herself, we then meet the older Frida – strong, liberated and shaped by the challenges of life as depicted in her paintings.

Feeling like a guest in the home of of Magdalena Carmen Frieda Kahlo y Calderόn, sit at her dining room table and enjoy the smell of coconuts and oranges, lie back and create in her canopy bed, check out her corset and orthopaedic show, try on Tehuan outfits or simply weave ribbons and flowers into your hair whilst listening to the story behind ‘Beautiful’.

Frida & Fridita

When: ongoing until September 3rd

Tue-Fri & Sun

10 a.m. to 11.45 a.m.

12 noon to 1.45 p.m.

2 p.m. to 3.45 p.m.

4 p.m. to 5.45 p.m.

Sat 12 noon to 1.45 p.m.

2 p.m. to 3.45 p.m.

4 p.m. to 5.45 p.m.

6 p.m. to 7.45 p.m.

Admission: PLN 5 per family (free on Fri)

Tickets: from the Old Guardhouse or rezerwacje@lazienki-krolewskie.pl

“Found inside the Old Guardhouse, and directly inspired by the life and works of the Mexican artist, it’s in here that families and children can experience art through the medium of play.

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations:

Infant & Toddler

Tatrzańska 5a

Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini

Badowska 19

Szkolna 16, Hornówek Elementary

Szwoleżerów 4

learning

preschools

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL (multiple

locations)

Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a

Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22 646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

warsaw montessori family

„Erdkinder” Middle School

Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree

Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Delivering an inclusive, rigorous and high-quality British education in a diverse and caring environment, mission of TBS is to balance academic success with character building and well-being. Students at The British School Warsaw learn an internationally respected curriculum, based on the best of British academics. They take pride in their excellent results at both International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) and IGCSE level, which are well above the global average. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as

children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep. edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between

English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the

highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their

abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@ joyprimaryschool.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant

surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life

challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

shopping experiences

GALERIA PÓŁNOCNA

Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a 5,000 sq/m rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques

that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

PLAC UNII

One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

MYSIA 3

in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

shopping experiences

The line-up in this trendy department store includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, a Leica camera shop, Asfalt vinyl store, Japanese fashion and accessories from Muji and sunglasses from Gloomy Sunday. After, check into Reginbar for cooling cocktails in a hip atmosphere. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

WARS SAWA JUNIOR

GALERIA PÓŁNOCNA

Centrally located, perks of Wars Sawa Junior include Poland’s only Uniqlo and the largest adidas store in the country.

WESTFIELD ARKADIA

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores in this giant include Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger

Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a 5,000 sq/m rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, westfield.com

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

antiques

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

WESTFIELD MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, westfield.com

PLAC UNII

One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

VITKAC

Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. Further features include a rooftop restaurant. ul. Bracka 9, vitkac.com

MYSIA 3

The line-up in this trendy department store includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, a Leica camera shop, Asfalt vinyl store, Japanese fashion and accessories from Muji and sunglasses from Gloomy Sunday. After, check into Reginbar for cooling cocktails in a hip atmosphere. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

WARS SAWA JUNIOR

Centrally located, perks of Wars Sawa Junior include Poland’s only Uniqlo and the largest adidas store in the country.

WESTFIELD ARKADIA

Not many Polish malls do it better.

Seen from the outside as a giant glass bubble, selling points here include a Multikino cinema, a Calypso fitness club, and a branch of the Hard Rock Café. Stores include high-end brands at Van Graaf, Hugo Boss, Guess and Victoria’s Secret. Global foods can be found at Kuchnie Swiata. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

ANTYKWARIAT NA TAMCE

Stores in this giant include Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, westfield.com

WESTFIELD MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, westfield.com

Presided over by a super-friendly hippy-looking dude, consider this a mine of rare vinyl (Beatles, Hendrix, Sabbath, weird Polish PRL stuff), as well as 15,000 comics and books. ul. Tamka 45B, antykwariat-tamka.pl

VITKAC

Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. Further features include a rooftop restaurant. ul. Bracka 9, vitkac.com

KOLO

What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armour. ul. Obozowa 99, gieldastaroci.waw.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

KWADRYGA

Antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past. ul. Wilcza 29, kwadryga.com

Seen from the outside as a giant glass bubble, selling points here include a Multikino cinema, a Calypso fitness club, and a branch of the Hard Rock Café. Stores include high-end brands at Van Graaf, Hugo Boss, Guess and Victoria’s Secret. Global foods can be found at Kuchnie Swiata. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

shopping exeriences

1 Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

3 Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

5 Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

6 Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

7 Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

9 Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

10

Westfield Arkadia

Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia

11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums

1

National Museum

Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl

2

The Warsaw Rising Museum

ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

3

Museum of Life Under Communism

ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum

ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

6

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

7 POLIN

ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

sport

1 Legia Stadium Łazienkowska 3, legia.com

live music

1

Chaton Warsaw Foksal 19, chatonwarsaw.com/en

INSTA WARSAW Stairway To Heaven

For the ultimate selfie, look to St. Anne’s at the mouth of Old Town…

First founded in 1454, the Church of St. Anne’s owes its current look to a Neo-Classical remodelling in 1788, and entering its fresco-filled Baroque interior its difficult not to feel more than a little awestruck. Witness to some of the most momentous chapters in Warsaw’s history, it was plundered during the 17th century Swedish Deluge. Later, in 1794, Bishop Józef Kossakowski was hung to wild applause due to his support of Russia, whilst WWII saw it used by the

Germans as a defensive point during the Warsaw Uprising. There were also happier times, as well. In 1981, on the anniversary of John Lennon’s death, it was here that an organ player recited the Beatles greatest hits whilst a priest strummed Let It Be. After, the crowd streamed down Krakowskie Przedmieście singing Give Peace A Chance. How different this could have been – having survived the war, the post-war construction of the W-Z tunnel caused a series of landslides and it was only round-the-clock work by a team of 400 engineers that saved the church. Interesting as all this may be to some, the primary reason many visit is actually for the adjacent bell tower. Open till 9 p.m. during the week, and 10 p.m. on Sat and Sun, huff your way up 147 steps for grandstand views of not just the Castle Square below, but also for the sight of the skyscraping skyline rising majestically over the Royal Route. There are higher views to be had in Warsaw, but arguably none so picturesque.

St. Anne’s Church

Krakowskie Przedmieście 68

GREY WOLF

WARSAW 2023

NOWY ŚWIAT 55 | ALEJE JEROZOLIMSKIE 49